THE CULINARY ISSUE
T o r o n t o
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Miami
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Kingston
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Umbria
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Sahara Desert
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Seattle
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Barcelona
I s s u e
05
A FRESH
Taste OF PLACE
JUST EAST OF TORONTO
Learn more on pages 64-65 and at TasteKN.ca
THREE TERRITORIES. TEN PROVINCES. A whole nation of inspiration. Inspired by Canada’s vast and varied landscape, The Rec Room’s THREE10 restaurant sets out to develop a menu that is a true expression of what it means to be Canadian. Using only the finest, freshest ingredients, THREE10’s handcrafted dishes feature flavours as diverse as our nation, from coast to coast.
TM
Plan your visit TheRecRoom.com
EATS & ENTERTAINMENT
LOCAL EXPERIENCES YOU WON’T FIND ANYWHERE ELSE Nothing connects you to the soul of a place like being invited into the home of a local. We offer these exclusive interactions across the world – giving guests a rare opportunity to see a destination through a local’s lens.
THIS IS BE MY GUEST.
TO LEARN MORE, VISIT TRAFALGAR.COM, CALL 1 800 352-4444 OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL AGENT TICO # R50015870
ISSUE 5 • ESCAPISM • 7
EDITOR’S LETTER
CONTACT
hello@escapism.to
E D I TO R I A L
EDITOR-AT-LARGE
Suresh Doss ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Jessica Huras STAFF WRITER
Katie Bridges COPY EDITOR
David Ort EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
Taylor Newlands EDITORIAL INTERNS
Sanzana Syed Jynee Bent CONTRIBUTORS
DESIGN
ART DIRECTOR
Matthew Hasteley SENIOR DESIGNER
April Tran DESIGN INTERN
Adrianna Madore STUDIO PHOTOGRAPHY
Kailee Mandel COVER PHOTOGRAPHY
Justen Soule PHOTOGRAPHERS
Gabriele Calimberti, Christina Li, Jon Ho, Curry Leamen
Rob Bragagnolo
CEO AND PUBLISHER
“
THERE ARE WET markets, and there are night markets,” my driver explains to my companions as he carefully navigates through a swarm of people in a parking lot. My friend and guide to the night markets of Kuala Lumpur continues: “A morning ‘wet’ market is where you can find produce, seafood, meat and prepared food. An evening ‘night’ market is where street food dominates the selection.” Minutes later we’re at the foyer of one of KL’s busiest wet markets. Two large arterial roads are closed off, lined with dozens of colourful tents. It’s a few minutes after eight in the morning but it already feels like we’re late. Throngs of locals shift through the narrow walkways, arms loaded with meat and vegetables, all to a soundtrack of bargaining vendors. Tables are spread out with a kaleidoscope of colours. There are fried-food stands and tea stations; vendors gracefully spinning long ropes of noodle dough; and stalls covered with colourful cakes and sweets. It is all at once exhilarating and alive. We’re living in the epoch of “the market.” Pick a major city in the Americas, Europe or Asia and chances are good that there’s a lively market somewhere nearby. Some have functioned as a gathering place for centuries, like Marrakech’s Jemaa el-Fnaa. Younger cities have also adopted them. That could mean a weekly, parking-lot party filled with food trucks or a permanent fixture of food stalls. In our first culinary issue of escapism, we celebrate food culture around the world, including our street eating obsession with a guide to some of our top must-trys. The next time you board a plane to a far away place, look beyond the big-name attractions and seek out the local market. ◆
Krista Faist ADVERTISING MANAGER
David Horvatin ADVERTISING
Nick Valsamis Spencer Reynolds MARKETING COORDINATOR
Emily Buck LEAD DEVELOPER
AJ Cerqueti CHAIRMAN
Tim Slee PRINTING
Solisco
Made possible with the support of Ontario Media Development Corporation. omdc.on.ca
@escapismto escapism.to
Suresh Doss, Editor-at-Large
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© Twenty Two Media Group 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All information contained in this magazine is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Twenty Two Media cannot accept responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Twenty Two Media a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine. All material is sent at your own risk and although every care is taken, neither Twenty Two Media nor its employees, agents or subcontractors shall be held liable resulting for loss or damage. Twenty Two Media endeavours to respect the intellectual property of the owners of copyrighted material reproduced herein. If you identify yourself as the copyright holder of material we have wrongly attributed, please contact the office.
CONTENTS
DEPARTURES
EXPERIENCES
13 ◆ In the Frame 20 ◆ Just Landed 22 ◆ The Escapist 24 ◆ In Transit ◆ Turkish Airlines 30 ◆ Short Stay Miami, Florida
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32 ◆ Long Stay ◆ Kingston, Jamaica
C OV E R S TO RY
37
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Street Biter
From egg waffles to daring takes on meat-on-a-stick, we round up the best street snacks worth pounding the pavement for. 44
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Humbria Brag
There are few places in the world where food is so deeply linked to culture and daily life as Italy. We capture the people and places behind one of the world’s most beloved culinary capitals.
EXCURSIONS 50 ◆ Coming Out of its Shell
As luxury resorts spring up all over the Turks and Caicos, five-star dining comes with it. Katie Bridges catches up with the chefs keeping the focus on local cuisine. 56
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Show and Tel Aviv
Everything you need to get the most out of Israel’s metropolis on the Mediterranean; a place that combines ancient and cutting edge into one stunning package.
69 ◆ The Checklist 79 ◆ The Intrepid Series: Speed Hump
Jessica Huras gets in touch with her inner Olivier as she rides a camel into Morocco’s Sahara Desert to spend the night. 92 ◆ Like a Local 94 ◆ The Selector 98 ◆ Rear View
TAKE YOUR TASTE BUDS ON AN ADVENTURE. Hungry for something different? Expedition Foodie is the place to discover only-in-Arizona restaurants, bars, cafÊs and eateries. Check out mouthwatering videos, articles and pictures of everything from local chefs’ favorite spots to the best places to eat just about anything. Start your foodie adventure at ExpeditionFoodieAZ.com
180° CHANGE. 360° VIEW. Now, the view is not the only thing turning heads at the CN Tower. We’re celebrating Canadian food and drink at 360 Restaurant with a fresh focus on locally-sourced ingredients and cuisine. Make your reservation at cntower.ca/360
DEPARTURES
24 32
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In the Frame
22
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The Escapist
In Transit
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30
13
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Long Stay
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Turkish Airlines
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Short Stay
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Miami, Florida
Kingston, Jamaica
IN THE FRAME • DEPARTURES • 13
BELOW: In Sidi
IN THE FRAME
Gabriele Galimberti combines portraits and stunning food photography to capture the story of 60 grandmothers. [
PHOTOGRAPHY
]
Benzarne, Morocco, Fatma Bahkach cooks for her entire household – she lives with her husband, two sons, daughterin-law and grandson.
Gabriele Galimberti
NANA NOSH IN HER KITCHEN shares Gabriele Galimberti’s visual stories, inspired by a meal shared with his own grandmother the night before embarking on a photography trip. In each of the 60 countries he visited, he found a grandmother who welcomed him into her home and shared her story and her food.
ABOVE: In Bakong,
Cambodia, in a banana-leaf-andwood hut suspended six feet above ground to avoid flooding, Gnep Tan cooks for her many children and grandchildren.
Through this diverse collection of compelling portraits and striking food images, Galimberti captures the love that each of these women pours into her cooking. $31.16, amazon.ca
IN THE FRAME • DEPARTURES • 15
ABOVE: Without
Gabriele Galimberti
access to electricity or running water, Gnep cooks lok lak, a traditional Cambodian dish with beef and onions.
ABOVE: Mother of 10
and grandmother of 15, Serette Charles lives in a village near Saint-Jean-Du-Sud, Haiti and makes her own coals from burnt logs for cooking fuel.
IN THE FRAME • DEPARTURES • 17
ABOVE: Fresh-caught
Gabriele Galimberti
lambi, a Haitian conch, which Serette cooks over coals with creole sauce and a side of fried plantains and Haitian fried rice.
18 • DEPARTURES • IN THE FRAME
ABOVE: Mice, snakes
Gabriele Galimberti
and cockroaches are on the menu in Mchinji, Malawi along with caterpillars, which Regina Lifumbo cooks in tomato sauce.
JUST LANDED From train passes in Europe to the secret garden in Beijing, follow these news items on your next adventure.
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WHAT’S
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CHUG LIFE Travelling by train in Europe is about to get easier than ever thanks to new updates to Eurail’s Global Pass. The Global Pass has long been a popular option for travellers visiting several European destinations in a single trip, simplifying transportation by covering train travel in dozens of different countries. Eurail is adding three new countries – Lithuania, Macedonia and the United Kingdom – to its network for 2019, bringing the total number of countries covered by the Global Pass up to 31. The tickets will also be priced at almost 40 per cent cheaper compared to previous years.
CHECKING IN Spanish hotel brand RIU Hotels & Resorts has announced the development of a new hotel in Toronto, which will be the brand’s first property in Canada. RIU is best known to most Canadians as the brand behind beachfront resorts in sun destinations like the Caribbean, Mexico and Central America. The new Toronto property will be part of the brand’s urban line, RIU Plaza. RIU reports that the new hotel will be set in a mixed-use tower block in the entertainment district. The property will feature 350 rooms, a gym, restaurant and meeting rooms, as well as condos on upper floors.
THE EMPEROR’S NEW GROVE
The Forbidden City: It’s the largest and best-preserved assembly of ancient buildings in China, as well as the biggest palace composite in the world.
The secret garden of Beijing’s Forbidden City will soon be open to the public for the first time. Built by the emperor of the Qing Dynasty in the 1770s, the almost two-acre Qianlong Garden has been dormant for almost 100 years. Consisting of courtyards, pavilions and other structures, the garden will be accessible to the public through a visitor’s centre designed by architect, Annabelle Selldorf. A partnership between the World Monuments Fund, the Palace Museum and New York firm Selldorf Architects will see Qianlong Garden welcoming visitors as early as 2020.
JUST LANDED • DEPARTURES • 21
DON’T STOP BE-LEAVING G Adventures and National Geographic Expeditions have expanded their Journeys to include more destinations in South America and Europe. Visit the Uyuni Salt Flats in Bolivia, hike through cloud forests in Peru or explore Portugal’s food-and-wine scene. Starting in Budapest, a new tour through the highlights of Hungary and Romania takes you to Bran Castle for a mixture of myth and history. G Adventures and National Geographic’s hands-on tours offer interactive experiences, learning opportunities, insight from locals who are experts in their field and free time to set out on your own exploration. Uyuni Salt Flats: During the rainy season, the flats flood with water, creating a reflective surface known as the “world’s largest mirror.”
HIKE THROUGH CLOUD FORESTS IN PERU OR EXPLORE PORTUGAL’S FOOD AND WINE
WHATEVER FLOATS YOUR BOAT
Train by Daniel Abadia; Palace by Ling Tang; Venice by Annie Spratt
Venice is poised to charge a new entry tax for day visitors. The approved fee will be between €2.50 to €10 per person ($3.75 to $15 CAD) based on the time of year. The proceeds will help offset the sizeable expense of maintaining the infrastructure of the popular destination. The toll will be waived for residents, tourists staying overnight (who already pay a separate tax), students and people commuting to the city for work. The Venetian government has yet to outline how visitors will pay the tax.
Tourists: Venice sees over 80,000 tourists each day – which far surpasses the mere 55,000 permanent residents living in the city.
8 LARGE FOR LGA Major improvements have been made to LaGuardia Airport’s Terminal B, as part of an $8-billion plan to modernize the airport. The often-mocked New York flying field (usually overlooked in favour of JFK) has added 11 new gates with seven more to follow in 2020. The new concourse is home
to local restaurants and shops, airline lounges and a plethora of natural light pouring in. Still under construction, LGA is slated to have 72 gates on six concourses and two new arrival and departure halls. Future plans include building a rail connection from LGA to Midtown Manhattan, and 14 miles of new roadways that will connect drivers to the facility.
22 • DEPARTURES • THE ESCAPIST
THE ESCAPIST
BON APP-ETITE Use these apps to find local culinary experiences across the globe.
From Thailand to Mexico to India, Katie Bridges wants you to eat on the street – like a local. Just follow these tips to make sure you don’t get laid low by food poisoning.
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BITES
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EATWITH This app specializes in culinary experiences ranging from meals hosted by home cooks to MasterChef events with the show’s former competitors. WITHLOCALS Connecting tourists with local guides, you get the inside track on your travel destination. Experiences are private so hosts can personalize tours, workshops and home dining.
A
While the notion of eating curbside cuisine may seem bonkers to the uninitiated, especially the germaphobes in the crowd, there are certain steps you can take to limit the risk of street sickness. Opt for busier stalls where the turnover of food is quick – if you don’t know how long that questionable meat has sat in the sun, you can confidently assume it’s too long. Watch the vendor like a hawk. If raw ingredients are left out in the open air or the person operating the stall isn’t using clean tongs, keep walking. If you’re still apprehensive, consider going vegetarian – with all the flavours on offer in India and southeast Asia, you’ll hardly miss meat. While I can’t guarantee that you’ll never get sick from eating street food, a bit of pre-planning and paying attention goes a long way, and, best of all, opens the door to a more authentic and flavourful experience. Go forth, be bold, and always carry hand sanitizer. May the odds be ever in your favour. ◆
Dosa: Originating from Southern Indian and Sri Lankan cuisine, a dosa is a type of fermented pancake made out of rice and black gram.
Evan Krause; Withlocals
GOOD FRIEND GAVE me two pieces of advice before I embarked on a year-long trip around the world. While her first tip was questionable (on her say so, I invested in a measly 45-litre backpack that refused to zip up after I purchased my first souvenir), her second pearl of wisdom still resonates with me today: eat street meat. From food carts to food trucks, and handheld treats to plastic chair dining, street eating is the best way to make a pit stop on your travels. More than that, food sold by roadside hawkers is a great way to immerse yourself in the culture. It’s what locals eat, and watching vendors waft aromatic meat on a fire, or whip up a dosa on a hot plate is as much fun as any sight listed in your guidebook. With plenty of options to choose from at night markets and other bustling strips, you can build your own picnic for a fraction of the price of eating at a restaurant. Most vendors only offer one food item – be it pad thai in Bangkok, chalupas in Mexico City or vada pav in Mumbai – thus streamlining your decision making.
AIRBNB EXPERIENCES Airbnb now offers 20,000 experiences worldwide. In the food category, locals host cooking classes, farm visits, tastings, walking street food tours and dinner parties.
24 • DEPARTURES • TURKISH AIRLINES
IN TRANSIT
FREE RIDE Business class passengers are eligible for Turkish Airlines’ Exclusive Drive program. For this perk, a private limo picks you up at your home or office and delivers you to the airport (up to 35 miles), in select destinations including Toronto.
Jessica Huras finds out how Turkish Airlines is taking the “eww” out of in-flight meals.
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ON THE FLY Aside from tasty eats, other on-board perks for business class travellers include free Wi-Fi, noisecancelling headphones to use on board, lie-flat seats that open into a 188-cm-long bed (and have a massage feature), and a privacy screen so you don’t end up drooling on your seatmate.
A
STAY FOR A WHILE Turkish Airlines’ Istanbul layover programme hooks up passengers who have a layover in the airline’s hub in Istanbul with free overnight accommodation or a free, guided walking tour of the city.
Istanbul by Emre Gencer
IRLINE FLIGHTS OFTEN feel like the admission price of travel; a necessary evil we’re forced to endure to reap the rewards of a new adventure. For me, in-flight food is usually one of the most depressing aspects of any travel experience. A typical flight sees me faced with a choice between going hungry until I reach my destination, or rolling the dice on whether the chicken or pasta will be the least dreary of the two pre-packaged meal options. Turkish Airlines’ focus on their in-flight menus came as a breath of fresh air. On my business class flight from Toronto to Istanbul, the dishes were artfully presented on porcelain plates, along with small LED lights designed to mimic candlelight. At the beginning of the flight, I placed my order with one of the “flying chefs” who work with the cabin crew to oversee food preparation. It was a welcome change of pace from my standard in-flight meal experience of shovelling food into my mouth with a plastic fork and battling against spillage as the person in front of me abruptly cranks their seat back. The enticing food options continue at Turkish Airlines’ Lounge Istanbul at Ataturk International Airport, a dramatic, 6,000-square-metre space that regularly ranks a place on lists of the world’s best. Buffets spread across multiple floors are piled with Turkish favourites like kebap, pide, köfte and dozens of international options, all of which are prepared on-site. With the opening of Istanbul New Airport, Turkish Airlines is poised to move its operations to the new space by the end of this year. Count me among those who are excited to see what their new Istanbul lounge will look like. I’m ready to eat my way through it as soon as it opens. ◆
26 • DEPARTURES • SOUTHEAST ASIA
SHRIMP SALAD IN CHIANG MAI, THAILAND
HOT SHOTS
The couple tries to connect with locals in each country they visit. Tikky Café, one of their favourite spots in Chiang Mai, is named after the hardworking woman who owns the place. There, they took this photo of shrimp salad – a mountain of fruit and greens with juicy prawns piled on top.
High school sweethearts Christina and Jon use Instagram (@CJ.onthego) to share photos of their food-focused travels.
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BÁNH TRÁNG CUON THIT HEO IN DA NANG, VIETNAM Since high school, Christina and Jon have always centred their date nights around food and that also inspires their travels. This photo captures the, now happily engaged, travel duo making their own Bánh Tráng Cuon Thit Heo, Vietnamese spring rolls. ◆
MI QUANG NOODLES IN DA NANG, VIETNAM Christina Li and Jon Ho
Christina and Jon work remotely in digital marketing, allowing them time to travel. This couple lives to eat and they aspire to make unfamiliar foods less overwhelming by showing their followers the best local eats in different countries. In their favourite food country, Vietnam, they mowed down on mi quang. Part soup noodles, part salad in a chicken broth, this dish can be topped with anything and usually comes with a crispy rice cracker.
COLOMBO’S COCKTAIL CAPITAL
ROOM SERVICE
Colombo is on the verge of a cocktail boom. Nearby Dutch Hospital District (a 15-minute walk) has quickly become ground zero for speakeasy bars. But you won’t have to leave the hotel for some of the best tipples. Capital Bar & Grill is equal parts modern cocktail bar and whisky lounge inspired by Prohibition era dens and 1920s Paris. The menu is split into modernist takes on drinks and, of course, classic cocktails.
From Colombo to Toronto, these are our favourite hotels around the world right now.
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SPLENDID SUNSETS While the hotel is decked to the brim with dining and drinking, you’ll find the best feature on the 32nd floor. From dawn to dusk, the opulent lounge provides a refuge from the tropical heat – plus breathtaking panoramic views of the ocean, city and Beira Lake. The club requires a small supplementary fee, but for the traditional Sri Lankan breakfast menu, cocktail hour and sunset views, it’s totally worth it.
SHANGRI-LA, COLOMBO, SRI LANKA One of Colombo’s newest hotels, the year-old Shangri-La Colombo presents unparalleled luxury in the capital’s most prestigious location. Adding enthusiastically local touches to grand hotel lobbies is the Shangri-La signature. Its Colombo hotel feels palatial with high ceilings, a huge lotus chandelier and open windows, which all serves as a backdrop to decorative pieces of locally created Sri Lankan art. The 500-suite hotel sits across from the Galle Face, Colombo’s historic oceanside park, near the city’s business district. Its location is convenient for discovering one of the fastest growing cities of south Asia (the hotel offers complimentary tuk tuk service), or stay in for the amenities from rooftop pool to luxe spa. Rooms from $225. shangri-la.com
ABOVE: Local
touches give the luxurious decor Shangri-La in Colombo, Sri Lanka a strong sense of place
ROOM SERVICE • DEPARTURES • 29
THE ANNEX HOTEL, TORONTO Toronto’s newest boutique hotel aims to tap into the ever-thriving homestay market with its design-hotelmeets-Airbnb concept. The Annex takes its name from its faculty-and-fraternities neighbourhood, reflecting the property’s emphasis on local experiences rather than typical hotel frills. Set in a 100-year-old building down a quiet alley off Brunswick Avenue, the Annex has a stylish, urban aesthetic. The hotel takes an “everything-you-neednothing-you-don’t” approach to amenities, which means no elevators, phones, TVs, room service or fitness centre: Just 24 bright, loft-style rooms spread across three storeys. There’s also no front desk, with guests instead receiving a text on the day of their check-in with their room number and a key code for access. Rooms from $200. theannex.com
SMALL-SPACE SUSTENANCE The Annex focused on developing a food-and-beverage programme designed to draw guests and non-guests alike. The stylish Lobby Bar serves light fare provided by the Tempered Room and Ripe Nutrition. In the evening, a carefully curated drinks menu emphasizing natural, organic wines is served via a white marble bar. The small, eclectic food menu is (impressively) prepared in a tiny, one-counter kitchen using only a panini press and a toaster oven. The hotel also offers a mini food-hall style space called the Annex Commons, which features outposts of Seven Lives Tacos and Big Trouble Pizza.
THE CRANE, BARBADOS Far from the super wealthy, celeb-filled west coast of Barbados, the Crane is located at the more remote and serene southeast end of the island, in St. Philip. Hugging a rugged cliff top, the hotel is blessed with a refreshing ocean breeze that makes this spot the perfect place to sun yourself at any time of year. The Crane is the oldest continuously operating hotel in the Caribbean and, as a result, historic touches can be seen throughout the property – the Carriage House Bar and Grill is a nod to the structure’s past life as the official stable a century ago. Rooms from $430. thecrane.com
POOL FOR THE PEOPLE Since many of the suites at the Crane offer private plunge pools for guests, the cascade pools – with their views of the Atlantic – often feel blissfully empty even in the middle of the day. The adults-only historic pool, with its classic Doric columns, is another great spot to enjoy the view in peace and quiet. ◆
The Carriage House: This casual poolside spot offers views of the Atlantic Ocean with Caribbean BBQ meals offered Tuesdays and Saturdays.
ABOVE: Breakfast
at the Annex Hotel is served in the cool Lobby Bar and features fare provided by the Tempered Room and Ripe Nutrition
SHORT STAY
GETTING THERE
Miami might be the sunniest spot you can get to in just over three hours. Taylor Newlands finds out where to eat, drink and be merry in the Magic City.
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BY AIR: Air
Canada and WestJet offer daily non-stop flights from YYZ to MIA. For additional options, look at flying into Ft. Lauderdale – it’s only a 40min drive from Miami. aircanada.com GETTING IN:
Miami is the place to rent a highperformance sports car to fit in rather than stand out. Renting makes getting between Miami Beach and the mainland easier.
ABRACADABRA IN MIA
Miami might not be the first place that pops into your head when you think of a long-weekend getaway, but the three-hour, budget-friendly flight makes it a very approachable option. Soaking up some sun in this pastel paradise can appeal to every type of traveller. Hit up the hotspots for nightlife in South Beach, shop brand names in bougie Bal Harbor or take in live music and salsa dancing in Little Havana. Just an hour outside of the city, nature lovers can get their kicks airboating through the Everglades scoping out alligators and other wildlife. They don’t call it the Magic City for nothing.
BEACHSIDE BASE
Having just undergone a $50-million renovation, every inch of Loews Miami Beach Hotel is stunning. Multiple dining options, poolside cabanas, palm trees swaying overhead and direct access to the sands of South Beach, make this luxury hotel feel even more like a top-tier resort. Sip local roasts at Miami Joe Coffee Co., brunchout at Preston’s Market, dine poolside at Nautilus or grab a casual bite and a cocktail at Bar Collins – all without leaving the grounds. If you do manage to make it off site to explore the rest of Miami, Loews is perfectly situated just a five-minute walk from Ocean Drive.
ABOVE-LEFT: With
the Versace mansion and several classic hotels, Ocean Drive is the main drag and spiritual home of the South Beach neighbourhood
MIAMI, FLORIDA • DEPARTURES • 31
SAISONS IN THE SUN
One of the trendiest neighbourhoods in Miami, Wynwood is home to colourful graffiti-art murals and an exciting craft beer scene. Book an official tour for a history lesson on the Wynwood Walls or wander the neighbourhood taking in the art and brews as you please. Latin inspired, Veza Sur offers sessionable beers and sours with a side of Chino-Peruvian street fare. Decked out in wall-length Star Wars murals and offering 15 beers on tap, J. Wakefield Brewing is the place to go for unexpected brews like their coconut-infused hefeweizen. Don’t miss Concrete Beach Brewery’s weekday happy hour or Wynwood Brewing Company – billed as Miami’s original craft brewery. Once you’re tapped out, head to Bakan for mescal cocktails, hand-made-in-house tortillas and other Mexican delights.
Chino-Peruvian: Also known as “Chifa,” this is a fusion of Chinese and Peruvian cuisine typically involving Chinese dishes made with South American ingredients like pineapple.
DRINKING ON THE DRIVE
While Ocean Drive might be an obvious choice, a guide to Miami wouldn’t be complete without it. Choose between the view of Lummus Park, the boardwalk, beach and sweeping views of the Atlantic on one side, or neon lights, bright signage and colourful patios on the other. After taking in your fill of Miami’s beach, sun and surf, eat and drink your way down Ocean Drive. You can find oversized cocktails in a rainbow of hues all along the strip – head to Wild ’n’ Out for arcade games or Mango’s Tropical Café for nightly dance performances. If you’re in the mood for a more refined, white-linen dining scene check out Prime 112 steakhouse or Gianni’s, located in the former Versace mansion. ◆
MIA MEALS From seafood to wood-fired eats, these are some of our favourite Miami restaurants.
LURE FISHBAR From maki to lobster rolls, this South Beach spot on the Loews grounds serves quality crustaceans without pretense. Displayed at the front of the restaurant for all to see, the raw bar features fresh nigiri, sashimi and an ever-changing oyster list.
BELOW: If the
location is the best feature for Loews’ Miami Beach hotel, the pool and fitness centre finish a close second and third
MICHAEL’S GENUINE Michael Schwartz’s flagship is right in the heart of the walkable Miami Design District. The menu features items from the wood-fired oven like chicken, pizza, octopus and striped bass. Weekdays offer an excellent happy hour.
Miami by Travelview; Michael’s Genuine by Suresh Doss
HAVING JUST UNDERGONE A $50-MILLION RENOVATION, EVERY INCH OF LOEWS MIAMI BEACH HOTEL IS STUNNING
BYBLOS Just north of the Ocean Drive strip, Eastern Mediterranean fare is served family-style. Meat and veg menu options share the limelight. Grab a couch on the quaint patio and one of their signature cocktails with a Mediterranean twist.
SEE
LONG STAY
Jamaica’s image is tightly connected to jerk, coffee and reggae. Jessica Huras visits the best spots for these iconic highlights.
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BOB MARLEY MUSEUM
Set in the handsome colonial-era townhouse where Bob Marley lived and worked from 1975 until his death, the Bob Marley Museum is Kingston’s most popular attraction. Guided tours take visitors through the singer’s recording studio and also visit the room where Marley was shot in an assassination attempt (you can see bullet holes in the walls).
CRAIGHTON COFFEE ESTATE
Blue Mountain coffee is widely recognized as one of the world’s best for its smooth, distinctive flavour. Naturally, visitors get the chance to sample the good stuff. Tours begin at the property’s grand 18th-century mansion, with guides then taking visitors on a tour of the hilly plantation. Among the highlights is a stop at a gazebo at one of the high points of the estate, which offers dramatic views over the surrounding mountains.
SHAARE SHALOM SYNAGOGUE
Jamaica’s only synagogue, which dates back to the early 20th century, offers intriguing insight into Jamaica’s unheralded Jewish immigrants, who came to the island in the 16th century. As in some other Caribbean temples, the synagogue’s floors are covered in white sand in recognition of Iberian Jews, who had to muffle their footsteps in order to worship in secret during the Spanish Inquisition.
REST STRAWBERRY HILL
It’s worth trekking just outside of Kingston proper for this stay and its views over 3,000 feet above the city. Guest rooms housed in Caribbean-style cottages channel the resort’s colonial-era heritage with their jalousie shutters and mahogany bed frames draped in mosquito netting. There’s a dramatic outdoor infinity pool, as well as a lovely spa where treatments incorporate local products.
TERRA NOVA ALL SUITE HOTEL
Suites at this restored colonial-era mansion feel more like stately apartments than traditional hotel rooms, with each featuring a large sitting area and walk-in closet. Terra Nova is within an easy walk of some great restaurants but consider staying on property for at least one meal. Regency Restaurant offers a posh setting and tasty Europe-meets-Caribbean dishes, but it’s best known for its popular Sunday brunch.
THE SPANISH COURT HOTEL
While the exterior of this New Kingston hotel has a historic feel, the interior is bright and modern. All rooms offer marble bathrooms with soaking tubs and iPod docks. There’s a cheerful outdoor space with an above-ground pool and a breezy bar. Free buffet breakfast, in the elegant restaurant, is included.
KINGSTON, JAMAICA • DEPARTURES • 33
EAT SWEETWOOD JERK
No trip to Jamaica would be complete without sampling some quality jerk and Sweetwood Jerk delivers. As its name implies, this joint’s authentic jerk meats are cooked slowly over a mix of sweetwood and charcoal. They serve jerk pork, chicken and pork sausage ( jerk lamb sometimes makes its way onto the menu too, if you’re lucky), along with classic sides like fried dumplings (called festival), breadfruit and sweet potato.
ABOVE: The Bob
Marley Museum offers insight into the life of one of Jamaica’s most famous reggae musicians
DEVON HOUSE
This 19th-century home built by George Stiebel, Jamaica’s first black millionaire, is a tourist site with surprisingly good food. Grab a scoop at the property’s acclaimed ice cream shop, Devon House I Scream. They feature nearly 30 flavours of their thick, sweet ice cream, including only-in-Jamaica varieties like soursop and Devon stout. Swing by the bakery for some of the island’s best savoury patties – try the lobster or the shrimp.
Devon House: Declared a national monument in 1990, this historic mansion features both Georgian and Jamaican architecture.
CHOOSE FROM 30 ICE CREAM FLAVOURS AT DEVON HOUSE I SCREAM, INCLUDING SOURSOP AND DEVON STOUT
RESTAURANT WEEK
If your Kingston trip happens to fall in early November, be sure to check out the restaurants participating in Jamaica’s annual Restaurant Week. Started 15 years ago, the event has grown from around 20 restaurants to over 100 in six parishes. Participating restaurants offer set menus that include an appetizer, a main course and dessert at discounts of up to 30 per cent. Signature cocktails and wines are also available at reduced prices.◆
PROMOTION
34 • PROMOTION • FLOR DE CAÑA
Saving the Planet One Rum at a Time Aged at the base of an active volcano, Flor de Caña rum’s relentless commitment to sustainability has earned them Fair Trade certification and the respect of the industry. While the sustainable food movement has gained momentum in recent years, less light has been shed on the environmental practices spirits are pursuing to decrease their carbon footprint. But when you consider the water and energy used, as well as the impact of transportation and packaging in the production of drinks, there’s plenty of room for improvement. Flor de Caña, a fifth generation single family estate rum based in Nicaragua, is one of only a few spirits brands to adopt Fair Trade practices in their supply chain. The brand’s 125-year holistic sustainability model has three approaches: environment, employees and community. The rum,
which is funnelled into white oak barrels, has been aged at the base of San Cristobal – Nicaragua’s most active volcano – since 1890, giving Flor de Caña its uniquely smooth and well-balanced flavours. While the century-old process hasn’t changed, Flor de Caña is leading the industry with an environmental commitment to distilling its rum using 100 per cent renewable energy and planting 50,000 trees annually. If you’ve ever visited Nicaragua, you’ll know that the popular Flor de Caña is everywhere you look – but the brand is just as dedicated to its social obligations as its rum production. Since 1913, Flor de Caña has offered free education to the children of its
employees, as well as free medical attention to its workers and their families at the company hospital since 1958. Though the slow-aged rum isn’t about to rush things, its transition into the modern world has expanded its market presence significantly. Once a primarily Central and South American rum, Flor de Caña is now a dominant global brand that has collected numerous awards for excellence. In 2017, Flor de Caña won Global Rum Producer of the Year at the International Wine & Spirit Competition in England. You never needed an excuse to sip on Flor de Caña, but now you can enjoy the Fair Trade certified rum completely guilt free. ◆
EXPERIENCES
37 44 50
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Street Eats Guide
Umbria and Tuscany, Italy
Providenciales, Turks and Caicos 56
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Tel Aviv, Israel
ROCK
HOUSE R ES T A U R A N T
WHAT’S OLD IS NEW AGAIN As we undertake a three-year redevelopment of our iconic Table Rock Centre at the brink of the epic, Canadian Horseshoe Falls, we launch phase one in May 2019 with the grand re-opening of Table Rock House Restaurant. Named for the restaurant that was once located on this site, Table Rock House Restaurant will present visitors with an entirely unique dining experience. Recalling the history of the destination, showcasing dynamic local food stories through expertly crafted seasonal menus including recommended pairings, and all with a side of one of the world’s most unrivalled views. To learn more about Niagara Parks Culinary, and our newly renovated Table Rock House Restaurant, visit niagaraparks.com/culinary
STREET EATS GUIDE • EXPERIENCES • 37
Vhpicstock
LEFT: Almost every type of food – from cold noodles to fresh food – is available from street vendors in Vietnam [
STREET
EATS
GUIDE
]
STREET BITER No reservations needed, cutlery highly optional and seating rarely available – these are our street food must-trys. We cover the globe – from Ottawa to Oaxaca and Cairo to Chengdu – for a comprehensive list of food booth finds.
1 Napkin Minimally messy
2 Napkins Moderately messy
3 Napkins
Bring a change of clothes
I
T HAS LONG been recognized that eating street food is a rite of passage for anyone who wants to call themselves a serious foodie. We tend to agree. As curious food seeking travellers, we can’t think of a better way to get deep into the culture of a place than strolling through a street food market or hawker centre and eating something unfamiliar. Whether you’re enjoying antojitos in downtown Oaxaca City, Mexico or slurping noodles in a night market in Asia, street food is a ubiquitous part of travel. It’s an experience universally enjoyed by people from all walks of life. To help you channel your inner Bourdain, we’ve picked our favourite hawker foods to scout the world’s streets for. >
ONE NAPKIN These hand-held eats can easily be enjoyed mid-jaunt through a bustling market while wearing a white cotton shirt.
TAKOYAKI
new levels in Malaysia. At every market, look for vendors with an assorted spread of meat soaked in a rich marinade. If you’re squeamish, stick to beef, pork and chicken. Adventurous eaters should go for organ cuts like heart and kidney. Everything is cooked on charcoal to give each bite a kiss of smoke.
Hong Kong, China It might look more like bubble-wrap packaging than dessert, but it’s Hong Kong’s favourite street snack for good reason. Sweet, eggy batter is poured into a waffle pan that’s then placed over a charcoal stove, before being popped out and served in a paper bag. Choose the right vendor and you’ll enjoy a satisfying treat that’s crispy on the outside and soft in the middle.
themselves in all These side sauces manner of ways. add a new taste Vegetables like dimension to the pakora, whether it’s eggplant, potato, a spicy chutney, a spinach and bitter, tart tamarind cauliflower are dipped or the fresh and creamy taste of a in gram flour and yogurt-based raita. deep fried, and are often served with chutney, tamarind or raita. The onion equivalent of the pakora is commonly known as a bhajji, but both are pretty greasy, so have a napkin handy while you snack.
PAKORAS
CENDOL
Osaka, Japan This beloved Osakan snack sees slices of cooked octopus, pickled ginger and green onion mixed inside a small ball of fried batter. Watching vendors speedily preparing these boiling, bite-sized balls (you will burn your tongue the first time you eat one – it’s unavoidable) on specialized takoyaki grills is as much an experience as actually eating the snack. The balls are served on a cardboard tray and finished with toppings like mayonnaise and dried bonito.
EGG WAFFLE
SATAY
Mumbai, India Pakora serves as a blanket term to describe Indian deep-fried fritters, which manifest
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Night markets take meat-on-a-stick to whole
ABOVE: Waving flakes of wafer-thin bonito make a serving of takoyaki appear like it’s almost alive. This snack is iconic to Osaka, Japan
Jakarta, Indonesia When temperatures soar, locals cool off with bowls of iced dessert at their favourite
STREET EATS GUIDE • EXPERIENCES • 39
hawker centre. Cendol can vary with vendors but the archetypal national dish is made up of a bowl of shaved ice, topped with coconut milk, plenty of rice flour jelly and palm sugar syrup. Mix it thoroughly before enjoying. Togo versions in plastic bags are also available if you prefer it in drink form.
SPEDUCCI
Abruzzo, Italy Originally a pasture-side snack for Abruzzian shepherds, speducci features marinated strips or cubes of lamb (or mutton) skewered on wooden sticks. This savoury snack is cooked over charcoal on a grill shaped like a length of eavestrough. Utensils are absolutely verboten for this snack that is meant to be pulled directly from skewer to mouth.
TAMEYA
Cairo, Egypt The Egyptian version of falafel is made with fava beans rather than chickpeas. Familiar in taste and texture, but lighter with a crispy outside and moist inside, Egyptian falafel has often been declared superior to Made from pureed its Levantine cousin. sesame seeds, lemon juice and Tameya is served with garlic, tahina is a side of tahina or in a an ingredient in sandwich and can be hummus and baba ghanoush that can found at street stalls also serve as a sauce and restaurants in on its own. downtown Cairo.
GIMBAP
Takoyaki by Agathe Marty; Cendol by YSKPhotography
Seoul, Korea Gimbap (or kimbap) is sometimes known as “Korean sushi” thanks to its resemblance to Japanese maki rolls. Like a maki roll, gimbap is made from rice rolled up in a seaweed wrap and sliced into bite-sized pieces. Seasoned veggies, egg, horseradish and imitation crab are among the traditional gimbap fillings, but you’ll see many creative interpretations of the well-loved meal. In the street, gimbap is typically sold pre-made and covered in plastic to keep it fresh and soft.
RIGHT: Cendol is a refreshing treat made from shaved ice that’s popular throughout Southeast Asia, including Indonesia
TWO NAPKINS Slow your roll or take a seat while you chow down on these slightly sloppy eats – and be sure to have at least two napkins on standby.
BUNNY CHOW
Durban, South Africa Only in South Africa will you find this dish of hollowed-out quarter loaves of bread stuffed to the top with Indian curry. You can find the quintessential eat at most Indian
takeout spots and restaurants, and the curries can range from mutton and chicken to spicy daal.
CHURROS
Madrid, Spain Stave off mid-sightseeing hunger with these ridged pastries available across Spain, Mexico and the Philippines. After being piped through a syringe-like tool with a starshaped nozzle, the dough is cut to roughly the length of oversized breadsticks, then lightly fried and sprinkled with cinnamon. Enjoy them while they’re hot – and >
UTENSILS ARE VERBOTEN FOR THIS SNACK PULLED DIRECTLY FROM SKEWER TO MOUTH
> ideally – dipped in warm chocolate sauce or dulce du leche.
DAN DAN NOODLES
Chengdu, China A classic Szechuan snack, dandanmian is made up of noodles in a spicy sauce or broth with chili oil, minced pork, Szechuan peppers and scallions. Take your seat at a plastic table (trust us, on this one), mix the toppings in with chopsticks and slurp up the leftover fiery broth with a spoon.
BALUT
Manila, Philippines Once you get over the visuals, the Filipino delicacy of a semi-fertilized duck egg is one of the world’s most interesting street food experiences. Start by drinking the liquid that tastes of yolk and chicken stock. Add a bit of salt before you get into the meat, which
ENJOY THEM WHILE THEY’RE HOT – AND IDEALLY – DIPPED IN CHOCOLATE SAUCE will have a custard texture and a crunchy bit or two.
New York City, U.S. Nothing says New York City like a charbroiled tube steak. In the concrete jungle, purists insist on toppings like sauerkraut or onions and hot mustard. The new class of vendors is pushing the envelope with condiment offerings like spicy kimchi and kewpie mayo.
Designed purely Also called variety to satiate hunger or organ meats, offal includes the cravings after a night less commonly used out, partygoers will parts of the animal, crowd around small like organs and food stands in search entrails. of the best “mix” – a grilled medley of chicken and offal stuffed into pita pockets with a generous slathering of hot sauce. If you like shawarma, this is the next best thing.
JERUSALEM MIX
PUPUSA
HOT DOG
Tel Aviv, Israel
San Miguel, El Salvador You can eat a pupusa any way you want except with a knife and fork. The thick corn tortilla is wrapped around a filling and served with a side of curtido, a vinegar cabbage slaw. Stuffings range from carne to queso to frijoles. The addictive Salvadoran street food is difficult to stop at just a single serving – order a few if you’re on the move.
PAD SEE EW
Bangkok, Thailand Savoury, comforting pad see ew is a great gateway dish for newcomers to Thai street food. A mix of wide, flat rice noodles are stir-fried in two kinds of soy sauce, along with Chinese broccoli and meat (most locals go with pork, while tourists tend to opt for chicken), it’s one dish that you can count on almost any street food vendor to have the ingredients to make. Unlike pad thai (a more familiar Thai noodle dish for many), which is sweet and nutty; pad see ew has a salty, chargrilled flavour.
BEAVERTAIL
Ottawa, Canada Similar to a funnel cake, but far better, the BeaverTail is a Canadian staple. A long,
LEFT: Particularly beloved in Singapore, durian’s spiked appearance is almost as distinctive as its pungent, unforgettable smell
STREET EATS GUIDE • EXPERIENCES • 41
Durian by Nataliia Sokolovska; Banh Xeo by Danii Wolfe
flat piece of crispy-on-the-outside-fluffyon-the-inside fried dough is piled with a combination of toppings including (but definitely not limited to) fruit, chocolate, cinnamon, sugar and maple butter. The snack got its start in 1978 at the Killaloe Craft and Community Fair. The originators, Grant and Pam Hooker, have opened locations in five countries and you can find BeaverTails at fairs across Canada, but a stand in Ottawa’s Byward Market sells the sugary snack all year round.
THREE NAPKINS Pull out all the stops for these bib-worthy bites – napkins, wet wipes and anything else to catch the drippings. Things are about to get messy.
DURIAN
Singapore, Singapore No one ever forgets their first encounter
with durian. Once you get a whiff of the famously fragrant fruit, you’ll understand why there are signs on Singapore’s MRT banning it from trains. The national fruit of Singapore, durian’s spiked appearance is almost as distinctive as its odour. Although equally indescribable, durian’s actual taste is (thankfully) much less overpowering than its smell. Try it raw, if you’re brave, or go for a durian pastry, durian ice cream, durian cake or one of the many other sweet treats made with the king of fruits.
BANH XEO
Hanoi, Vietnam This crispy, savoury dish puts a Vietnamese spin on the classic French crêpe. A light rice flour batter (often seasoned with
ABOVE: Like much of modern Vietnamese cuisine, banh xeo combines a French-style presentation of crêpes with local ingredients
turmeric for a distinctive yellow colour) is deep fried in oil and packed with fillings like shrimp, pork, onions, bean sprouts and other veggies. The way the dish is prepared and presented varies throughout Colonized by France the country, but in 1887, Vietnam was influenced by the whether it’s served French during their with lettuce cups 67-year reign. This or wrapped in rice might explain the similarity between paper, it makes for a French crepes and satisfying light meal banh xeo. or snack. >
NO ONE EVER FORGETS THEIR FIRST ENCOUNTER WITH THE KING OF FRUITS
42 • EXPERIENCES • STREET EATS GUIDE
> ELOTES AND ESQUITES Oaxaca, Mexico More familiarly known as Mexican street corn, an elote is grilled and eaten on the cob while esquites is served in a cup. Slathered in mayo and sprinkled with chili, lime and crumbly cheese, this classic Mexican street food is about 10 flavour levels above the roasted corn known to Canadians. Get this salty, spicy and (let’s face it) sloppy eat from street vendors in downtown Oaxaca.
DONAIR
Halifax, Nova Scotia
The East Coast street food donair is the perfect midnight snack. A pita is stuffed with savoury donair meat and topped with raw onion, tomato, garlicky and creamy donair sauce and wrapped not-so-neatly in tinfoil. Fans of this Scotian In Canada, donairs favourite know the are usually made one rule - no one with spiced ground looks good eating beef that’s moulded a donair, so enjoy into a log and then roasted – but yourself under the chicken and lamb cover of darkness donairs are great and grab a few extra alternatives. napkins to be safe.
CURRYWURST
Berlin, Germany A staple of the strasse, this meaty takeout dish is (supposedly) the brainchild of street vendor, Herta Heuwer, who created the dish when she poured a mixture of tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce and curry powder over a skinless pork sausage. The combination was born out of the postwar necessity to mask the flavour of substandard sausage. These days, the saucy snack is served in bitesized pieces, and often comes with a side of fries or a bread roll. Grab a wooden fork, jut out your chin, and slow to a stroll while you bite into this mildly spicy meal. ◆
Playa Del Carmen
THIS MEXICAN STREET FOOD IS 10 FLAVOUR LEVELS ABOVE CANADIAN ROASTED CORN
ABOVE: Forget plain corn on the cob, esquites sees the humble yellow vegetable kicked up with crumbly cheese and spicy chili
flavour BEGINS HERE
WHAT DOES NIAGARA TASTE LIKE? At Niagara Parks, a 133-year-old agency of the province of Ontario, we are committed to preserving and presenting the wonders of Niagara for the enjoyment of the world. From our inspiring natural wonders — the falls themselves — and engaging heritage sites, to our breathtaking and reflective horticultural spaces, presenting experiences that invoke and excite your senses is what we do. All senses. Across the past number of years, our Niagara Parks Culinary team has explored how to truly present the tastes of Ontario and Niagara to the world. The answer was easy, look local. Working with the Culinary Tourism Alliance under their Feast On certification program, our services and all of our five full-service restaurants, from the epic Table Rock House Restaurant to the serene Queenston Heights Restaurant, feature a mandated minimum 25% food and beverage sourced from local Ontario growers, producers, and providers. In fact, Niagara Parks Culinary features up to 60% locally sourced food, and nearly 100% beverages. And we don’t stop there, even the talented cooks and chefs in our kitchens are locally sourced. The Niagara Parks Apprenticeship Training Program, in association with Niagara College, is one of the largest of its kind in Canada. From amazing Ontario orchards to the delicious dairies, from VQA wines to Ontario’s fast-growing craft beer and spirits scene, Niagara Parks is committed to supporting the many growers, producers and craftspeople that make up Ontario’s unique taste of place. And with five full-service restaurants and a slate of spectacular events to choose from, you’ll know your meal will be just as unique as the land where it’s grown.
To learn more about Niagara Parks Culinary, our restaurants, and our highly anticipated Pop-Up Dinner series, visit niagaraparks.com/culinary
CENTRAL ITALY • EXPERIENCES • 45
Photography by CURRY LEAMEN
[
CENTRAL
ITALY
]
HUMBRIA BRAG We head to Central Italy to capture the people and places behind one of the world’s most beloved culinary capitals.
1,700
Umbria’s oldest olive tree, in years
7.6%
Italy’s share of the olive oil market
2,448 M
Cima del Redentore, the highest peak
LEFT: Local family the Riccis have been producing extra virgin olive oil since the 19th century. Their grove offers a lovely view of the village of Montecchio and the surrounding Umbrian countryside.
T
HERE ARE FEW places in the world where food is so deeply linked to culture and daily life as Italy. Famously, Italians not only know how to cook exceptional food, but also how to enjoy that food to the fullest. Eating is as much an art in Italy as cooking, and every meal is a celebration of food. While most of us first see Italian food as pizza or spaghetti, the country’s cuisine actually varies greatly from region to region. We follow photographer Curry Leamen to Umbria and southern Tuscany to explore the simple, rustic cuisine that defines this beautiful area. ◆
ABOVE: The Ricci family produce their olive oil on the same property where the olives are grown to help maintain maximum freshness, flavour and colour.
CENTRAL ITALY • EXPERIENCES • 47
ABOVE: Azienda La Casella resort features an equestrian centre and guests can tour rural Umbria on horseback.
ABOVE: Freshly caught branzino are on display outside of a restaurant in Orbetello, a small walled coastal town in southern Tuscany.
CENTRAL ITALY • EXPERIENCES • 49
ABOVE: Caseificio Sociale di Manciano specializes in producing Pecorino Toscano, a sheep’s milk cheese known for its subtle, sweet flavour. These rounds of cheese will age and develop flavour for up to 12 months.
[
PROVIDENCIALES,
TURKS
AND
CAICOS
]
COMING OUT OF ITS SHELL As the Turks and Caicos takes off as a luxury culinarytravel destination, Katie Bridges meets the chefs working to keep a local element in the country’s dining.
40
Total islands and cays
I
1,000
Nearby shipwrecks for divers
’M STANDING NEXT to an empty pool at sunset, watching servers with aperitifladen trays weave artfully through a posse of people who are so well-dressed I think they must be at least quasi-famous. A glass of crisp sauv blanc in one hand and a napkin full of sushi in the other, I mentally scratch a bug bite underneath my dress, one that I hope passes for the recommended “resort chic” (which, I presume, constitutes the absence of denim hot pants?). You could be forgiven for mistaking my location for a glamorous hotspot in Los Angeles – but >
30 years
Of pirate rule from 1690 1720
Words by KATIE BRIDGES
RIGHT: Conch served in a wide variety of ways is the unofficial national dish of Turks and Caicos
PROVIDENCIALES, TURKS AND CAICOS • EXPERIENCES • 51
ABOVE: The festival’s Gourmet Safari kicked off with cocktails at host hotel, the Grace Bay Club
> instead, when I post a picture of this truly Gram-worthy soiree, the geotag reads “Grace Bay Club, Providenciales,” followed by a series of hashtags for the eighth annual Turks and Caicos Caribbean Food and Wine Festival – plus a few palm tree emojis thrown in for good measure. This luxe setting certainly wasn’t what I expected when I received my invite. Instead of generous street-side portions of jerk chicken, beans and rice heaped onto plastic plates, all washed down with rum punch strong enough to put hairs on your chest, the four-day food extravaganza is a celebration of haute cuisine paired with wine from international producers. Michelinstarred chefs flown in for the event conjure up innovative food in unique dining settings, like the gourmet safari I find myself on right now, which transports guests to a new restaurant for every course. With endless,
white sand beaches, swaying palm trees and mind-bogglingly clear turquoise water, Turks and Caicos could have rested on its laurels with a half-hearted attempt at fine dining. Instead, the British Overseas Territory has made huge gastronomic strides in the past decade, stepping out of the shadow of culinary cousins like Jamaica and making the island a foodie destination in its own right. While TCI has eight main, inhabited islands covering 728 square kilometres, Providenciales (or Provo for short) is where most of the action happens. Located in the northwest Caicos Islands, Provo houses 75 per cent of the population (the total population for Turks and Caicos is a teeny 35,446), plus the majority of luxury resorts where much of the Caribbean Food and Wine Festival is held. Inconceivable as it now seems, Provo did not have telephones, electricity, or even roads as recently as 1964. A development boom in the 1980s saw the arrival of Club Med, the island’s first large hotel and casino complex. Today, tourism is the island’s biggest economic driver.
As you’d expect of an archipelago made up of 40 islands and cays, the cuisine is based around seafood. It’s impossible to talk about food here without mentioning the ever-present conch (pronounced “konk”); a marine snail and national symbol of Turks and Caicos. Before I’ve been on the island for a full 24 hours, I’ve already sampled the delicacy on three separate occasions. Turks and Caicos The chameleon-like Islands are one of 14 territories seafood (which even that are under the has its own festival sovereignty and held every November) control of the UK. wears a new disguise each time it arrives on my plate. For my maiden meal at Simone’s Bar and Grill, it appears in the cevichelike conch salad, consisting of the raw fish marinated in freshly squeezed lime juice with onions, peppers and tomatoes. Later, I snack on the crispy fritter variety, before completing a hat trick with the tenderized and lightly breaded shellfish at the aptly named Da Conch Shack.
PROVIDENCIALES, TURKS AND CAICOS • EXPERIENCES • 53
Conch might be a hallowed food around these shores, but not everyone is enamoured with the fruits of the Atlantic ocean. Though tourists can expect to pay around $50 USD for local lobster tails, many of the locals I chat with have grown bored of the seemingly endless supply of seafood. Chicken is saved for special occasions – for instance, on game day when NFL fans gather around their TV to cheer on the Miami Dolphins. We find ourselves on a meandering journey towards Amanyara Hotel, in the northwest, for the festival’s welcome dinner, cooked by DJ-turned-MasterChef, Shaun O’Neale, who wowed Gordon Ramsay and Daniel Boulud on season 7. Wearing his signature army cap and speaking to the crowd in unpretentious banter, I can’t help but wonder if the self-taught cook would be more at home cooking up beats – but after the first two courses of crispy arancini and local white fish ceviche served inside a coconut, it’s obvious to everyone that O’Neale’s creative plates are a world away from his down-to-earth persona. Another cook clearly at home in front of a crowd is Andrew Pern, owner of Michelinstarred restaurant The Star Inn at Harome and headliner at the Food and Wine Festival. A pioneer of the gastropub, the English chef has consistently won awards for a menu that champions seasonal and local produce. Unlike the glut of lobster and turbot
IT’S IMPOSSIBLE TO TALK ABOUT FOOD HERE WITHOUT MENTIONING THE EVER-PRESENT CONCH (PRONOUNCED “KONK”). caught in nearby Whitby, Pern isn’t able to rely entirely on local ingredients for his Dinner Under the Stars event. While the main course uses local lobster, the cured salmon for his starter has to be flown in – a common occurrence on the island. Since most food is imported to TCI, and most goods that enter the country are subject to a 30 per cent tariff, restaurant bills add up quickly. One individual keen to take a more localized approach is TCI’s culinary ambassador, Nikita O’Neil Skippings or “Chef Nik” as he’s more commonly known. I meet the local celebrity at Crackpot Kitchen, a restaurant which started as a TV show, before graduating to this popular spot on the second floor of a shopping plaza in Grace Bay. “Few restaurants around here are authentically local,” says chef Nik. “So what There are no income or property taxes in Turks and Caicos so the government depends on these import tariffs for 60 per cent of its total revenue.
we try to do here at Crackpot Kitchen is not only promote and showcase local cuisine, but encourage others to do the same.” The outgoing chef was taught how to whip up Caribbean flavours by his late father, Aulden “Smokey” Smith, a pioneer of local cooking whose muralized image watches from the wall as we devour plate after plate of his son’s cooking. Before he died in 2016, Smith could often be found shopping for the freshest ingredients for his restaurant, Smokey’s on the Bay. Through a combination of increased local farming (kale, peas, potatoes) and exposing vacationers to more than just luxury resort dining, Chef Nik is looking to keep his father’s legacy alive. With classics like Guinness-braised oxtail, BBQ pigtails and curried goat on the menu, it certainly has the locals vote. >
BELOW: The festival’s welcome dinner featured several courses of food by Shaun O’Neale, the MasterChef winner (second from right)
Turks and Caicos Tourism
54 • EXPERIENCES • PROVIDENCIALES, TURKS AND CAICOS
> “People don’t have time [to cook] any more,” says Ramon Andrews, the affable director of tourism for Turks and Caicos. “This is the loving, home-cooked food we once ate from our parents.” Finding homegrown products in a country with minimal crop production is tough, but not impossible. PeppaJoy, an all-natural, hot sauce made from Scotch bonnet peppers harvested in North Caicos is the perfect pair to all that conch. While you won’t find a winery on the island, the island does produce some of its own booze. I-Ain-Ga-Lie, a beer named after the tall tales islanders are famous for, is brewed at Turk’s Head Brewery. Just as Red Stripe is quintessentially Jamaican, this lager is a happy hour must-have on Turks
and Caicos. While the success of the Caribbean Food & Wine Festival has put TCI on the map, the rest of the year is by no means a culinary void. Chef Paul Newman, winner of Iron Chef Canada in 2011, opened Coyaba in 1999, a stunning gazebo-style restaurant known for contemporary fusion cuisine. At Long Bay, you’ll find Peruvian-meets-Japanese at the Shore Club’s SUI-REN, which highlights fresh seafood in dishes like Tiradito (raw fish, cut in the shape of sashimi). Or for something more low-key, grab tortillawrapped yellowfin tuna at Just Tacos, the Grace Bay Club’s pop-up restaurant. With luxury hotels breaking ground across the island, and a desire for international cuisine at the restaurants inside them, my
hope is that the local selections on menus don’t shrink – if not for my conch obsession, then at least for health reasons. “Our grandparents lived these organic, farm-to-table lifestyles before the rest of us,” says Chef Nik. “And they all lived to be 90.” ◆
GETTING THERE Providenciales is the main entry point to Turks and Caicos with Air Canada and WestJet offering direct flights throughout the week. The journey takes approximately 4 hours and will cost around $700 for a return flight. Grace Bay Beach is a 15-minute drive away. aircanada.com, westjet.com
Turks and Caicos Tourism
PEOPLE DON’T HAVE TIME TO COOK ANY MORE. THIS IS THE LOVING, HOME-COOKED FOOD WE ONCE ATE FROM OUR PARENTS
ABOVE: Whitefish ceviche, served in halved coconut shells aptly captures the balance between local and luxe
OR S 9 F SE E1 AS AP P SC ERY E E OV OD ISC EC D US OF F $5
Celebrate Niagara’s wine country, from vine to glass With over 125 experiences, 350 VQA wines, 450 hours of live music, the Niagara Grape & Wine Festival is Canada’s largest wine celebration. The self-guided Discovery Pass allows you to explore wines and the vines in each Festival season. Don’t miss our Signature Events – the black-tie Icewine Gala, the “boots & blue jeans” Tailgate Party and the “party in the park” Montebello Food & Wine Experience.
ICEWINE FESTIVAL
HOMEGROWN FESTIVAL
HARVEST FESTIVAL
JANUARY
JUNE
SEPTEMBER
niagarawinefestival.com
@NiagaraWineFest
[
TEL
AVIV,
ISRAEL
]
SHOW AND TEL AVIV Suresh Doss captures the essence of Israel’s bustling beachside metropolis and outlines what you need to know to plan your own sun-soaked stay.
14 KM
Of boardwalk along the coast
Words by SURESH DOSS
20°C
Average daytime high in March
25th
TLV’s rank as a financial centre
RIGHT: Located on the sea, Tel Aviv’s long history is tightly linked to its Old Port
TEL AVIV, ISRAEL • EXPERIENCES • 57
DO PROMENADE AND MARINA
The ever expanding boardwalk is one of the best outdoor attractions of the cosmopolitan city. The sprawling promenade acts as a spine to many of Tel Aviv’s neighbourhoods, allowing easy exploration (on bike or electric scooter) of the city’s distinct districts. Some of the best Mediterranean beaches can be seen between the Bauhaus architecture on one side and cerulean waters on the other.
Victor Jiang
BEIT HATFUTSOT
From TLV’s dozens of options for artinclined travellers, we prefer the Museum of the Jewish People at Beit Hatfutsot. The museum was established in the late 1970s and underwent a $100-million overhaul three years ago. There are many new highlights that demand an afternoon of reflection: a
tribute to Leonard Cohen, a hall featuring miniature replicas from synagogues around the world and a heroes exhibit highlighting trailblazers of Jewish faith.
JAFFA
Follow the boardwalk to its southern end and you’ll enter the ancient port city of Jaffa. A photographer’s dream come true, the walled city looks like an outdoor bazaar. You’ll find an endless network of twisting alleys dressed with hundreds of antique shops, galleries and restaurants. Venture deeper and you’ll stumble upon the Jaffa Flea Market, Shuk Hapishpeshim. There’s an entire section dedicated to local food. Note: cash is king in these streets. When you’re done exploring Jaffa’s charming corners, browse through antique and contemporary Israeli art at the Ilana Goor Museum and take in panoramic views at the Ottomon-era clock tower.
BELOW: The Jaffa Hotel captures the city’s ethos with a split focus on historical preservation and modern touches
GETTING THERE Direct flights to Tel Aviv are available through Air Canada which will take you straight to Ben Gurion Airport. The city centre is 30 minutes by taxi from the airport. aircanada.com
TEL AVIV, ISRAEL • EXPERIENCES • 59
STAY HOTEL MONTEFIORE
Set between the beach strip and the lively Rothschild Boulevard, the 97-year-old Hotel Montefiore bills itself as a hotel that presents affordable luxury without any compromise in hospitality. Plan your stay early, only a dozen rooms are available in this Eclectic style building. Rooms feel expansive with tall ceilings and wide windows, lavishly styled in a mix of contemporary and Art Deco elements. Beach bums will appreciate the quick walk from the hotel to white sands. Prefer to stay in? Each room is fully stocked with a library with hundreds of titles. Rooms from $400. hotelmontefiore.co.il
THE SAVOY TEL AVIV, SEA SIDE
Stay at the Savoy for seaside views without breaking the bank. Situated next to the hip Geula beach, Savoy’s main draws are its location and the hotel’s contemporary aesthetics within its 55-room building. Perhaps because of its free all-day snack bar the Savoy attracts a social and hip crowd, so if you’re in the mood for making new friends and spontaneous plans, this is the place. Free bike rentals come as an added perk . Rooms from $300. savoyhotels.co.il
THE JAFFA
Geared to travellers that want a mix of pampered luxury with a convenient location, the Jaffa is a 120-room property in the heart of lively Jaffa Port. The School of the Sisterhood of Saint Joseph convent was converted into the stunning urban resort a few years ago. Much like its surroundings, the hotel has two identities: in one wing it feels like you’re staying in an ancient palace with immaculately preserved rooms; in the other the mood is chic, complete with modern amenities. The old converges with the new in the hotel’s Chapel - a former prayer space that is now a hot spot for cocktails and bites. Luxuriate in the hotel’s L.RAPHAEL Beauty Spa or head out for a quick walk into the city’s historic old market. Rooms from $800. thejaffahotel.com
EAT CARMEL MARKET
Walk through the Carmel Market to get an understanding of the vastly different influences on Tel Aviv’s food scene. Shlomo & Doron Hummus presents some of the best bowls of hummus you’ll find in the city, so try a few varieties. For coffee and vegan food, all the socialites head to Cafe Yom Tov. Go to Sabich for spicy stuffed pitas with mango pickle – dubbed the quintessential Israeli sandwich. Finish off with malabi – Israeli milk pudding – at Hamalabiya.
THE EUCALYPTUS
While it is technically an hour from downtown TLV, the Eucalpytus is a rite of passage for anyone curious about traditional yet progressive Israeli cuisine. Owner and chef Moshe Basson is one of the few Israeli chefs who pulls from ancient and biblical texts to create lavish feasts and tasting menus that marry a classic slow-food approach with modern techniques. Basson preaches a philosophy of communal dining and making new friends. Staff are known for surprising guests with large feastable platters of food meant for sharing.
DIZENGOFF SQUARE AND ROTHSCHILD BOULEVARD
Rightfully nicknamed “The Non-Stop City,” Tel Aviv’s nightlife makes it worth an extended weekend visit. Beach lovers congregate by the coast for overnight parties featuring famous guest DJs. For a less-touristy time, head towards the city centre districts. Dizengoff Square is home to a dozen bars within a walkable strip. Just off Rothschild Boulevard, you’ll encounter scores of bars tucked into side streets, each with its own vibe. For something slightly upscale, head south to the Florentin neighbourhood where there’s a melange of hipster, high-end bars and rooftops. ◆
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BELOW: In the hands of Tel Aviv’s top purveyors, hummus is way more than just chickpeas and garlic
Helga Bragina
the wine wizard of oz Australia is known for its stunning nature, but the land down under is also home to world-renowned wine brand, Jacob’s Creek. From beaches to bush and coastal cities to outback, Australia is known for its stunning landscapes and incredible wildlife. But the land down under is also home to world-renowned wine brand, Jacob’s Creek. Born in the heart of the Barossa Valley, on the shores of a river now called Jacob’s Creek, the South Australian wine brand has roots dating all the way back to the planting of the first vines in 1847. Now, Jacob’s Creek is the number one wine brand in Australia and known the world over for their fresh and bright wines. From the simple fruity flavours of their Dots collection to the more complex notes in their Double Barrel lineup, there’s a Jacob’s Creek wine for every occasion. North east of Adelaide, the bustling capital city of South Australia, the Barossa Valley is home to Jacob’s Creek Visitor Centre and vineyard. Both the Double Barrel Shiraz and Double Barrel Chardonnay come from this region of rolling hills and valleys. With a warm, dry climate and deep soils perfectly suited to growing shiraz, the Barossa region holds some of the oldest shiraz vines and vineyard soils in the world. Sunshine-filled days allow for full ripeness and intense flavour while cool summer nights preserve the taste and vibrant colour. The lower temperatures also help to retain the natural acidity. This combination of ideal conditions gives the Barossa region its outstanding reputation as a producer of quality wines – including Jacob’s Creek Double Barrel Shiraz and Double Barrel Chardonnay. The newest member of the Jacob’s Creek lineup, this full-bodied chardonnay is blended from both wine barrel and whisky barrel fermented wine for a deep and complex flavour. Just east of the capital, the Adelaide Hills region offers premium conditions for cool climate wines. At 400-700 metres above
sea level, the region sees heavier rainfall and cooler conditions than other areas of South Australia. Here, Jacob’s Creek Reserve Chardonnay is crafted. Dry and full bodied, this quality chardonnay is fruit-driven with flavours of apple, pear, vanilla and citrus. In addition to celebrating the delicious flavours of Jacob’s Creek’s quintessentially Australian wines, we’re also raising a glass to their green initiatives. By using drip irrigation, water monitoring devices and other more sustainable methods, they were able to reduce their water consumption by almost 26 per cent in just one year. All of Jacob’s Creek’s waste water is recycled – they even use some of it to water the lawns at nearby Tanunda Pines Golf Club. In an effort to return the land to its natural state, Jacob’s Creek has spent more than a decade working to promote the growth of native Australian plants along the creek. Foreign plant species that have invaded South Australia are being replaced with indigenous greenery to improve the natural and uniquely Australian ecosystems. This large-scale project has resulted in native frog, fish and water birds returning to the areas. From the land down under, Jacob’s Creek captures the essence of modern Australia in their delicious wines. Grown from South Australia’s unique terroir, using environmentally conscious efforts, their wide variety of wines offer quality, flavour and the spirit of Australia in every sip. ◆ For more information on Jacob’s Creek wines and their new Double Barrel Chardonnay, visit jacobscreek.com
RIGHT: Jacob’s Creek is nestled in the heart of the Barossa Valley, a warm, dry region apt for growing their full-bodied shiraz
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PROMOTION
Good Luck Farm Produce-rich farmlands and fresh approaches to culinary traditions make Kawarthas Northumberland one of the most exciting foodie destinations within driving distance of Toronto. The farm-to-table movement is showing no signs of slowing down in Toronto, but there’s one Ontario region where this local approach to eating is more than a trend, it’s a way of life. Located less than a two-hour drive from Toronto, Kawarthas Northumberland encompasses the Kawartha Lakes, Peterborough & the Kawarthas and Northumberland County. The picturesque Trent-Severn Waterway ties much of this region together, linking pretty villages and towns with scenic provincial parks and
hundreds of lakes and rivers. The fertile farmlands and fresh waters of Kawarthas Northumberland are the source of the region’s rustic beauty as well as the natural bounty that defines its impressive food scene. The area’s passionate farmers take pride in cultivating this rich land, while talented producers transform their harvest into memorable meals. Get a taste of this farm-to-table culture at one of the many farmers’ markets found in the area, including the Peterborough Farmers’ Market, which has been offering fresh goods
to the community for almost 200 years. In Kawarthas Northumberland, you’ll find a food culture that’s innovative and modern, but also rooted in a deep culinary heritage. Take drink-makers like Black’s Distillery and Olde Stone Brewing, for example, who are incorporating local Red Fife, Canada’s oldest strain of wheat, into distinctive new spirits and brews. Olde Stone Brewing Co. uses Red Fife to produce a golden wheat ale, while Black’s Distillery uses it make grain to glass spirits like vodka and gin. Meanwhile, other makers are sharing their
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PROMOTION
Culinary check list South Pond Farms Expand your culinary skills with a workshop at South Pond Farms, a serene country venue located in the Kawartha Lakes. Learn about traditional bread-making with pastry chef Dylan Smith and find out how to bake bread from scratch using heritage grains and natural leavening – you’ll never go back to the store-bought stuff again. Or let the farm staff do the work and join them for a lunch, full moon supper or other seasonal meal event. Save time to explore the delightful trails on the farm property, or extend your walk at the neighbouring Ballyduff Trails. southpondfarms.ca
ABOVE: South Pond Farms, a countryside venue located in the Kawartha Lakes, offers culinary workshops and meal events.
South Pond by Kim Magee and Claire Dam; Publican House by Justen Soule; Chocolate by Angela Roest
unique takes on the butter tart, a classic Canadian treat dating back to 1900. Some bakers are creating gluten-free variations, while others are experimenting with fruit and crème fillings. Taste them all by following the Butter Tart Tour. All these culinary adventures (and many more) await you a short drive from Toronto in Kawarthas Northumberland. Whether you’re dining in a wonderful restaurant, touring a brewery or tucking into an awardwinning butter tart, the vivid landscapes of Kawarthas Northumberland will provide the picture-perfect backdrop for your delicious discoveries. ◆ For more information about craft brews and to plan your culinary trip to Kawarthas Northumberland visit tastekn.ca
The Publican House Sample some of the best brews in the region at the Publican House in Peterborough. Set in a 170-year-old building, the Publican House’s beers are made right on-site, using natural ingredients and no preservatives. Quality, local ingredients are the focus of the restaurant’s approachable, brewpub menu, which includes wood-fired pizzas cooked in a 6,500-lb wood-fired oven from Naples, Italy. Suggested beer pairings throughout the food menu make it easy to match one of their small-batch brews with your meal. publicanhouse.com Centre & Main Chocolate Indulge in artisan chocolates at Centre & Main Chocolate in Warkworth. Here, ethically-sourced chocolate is blended with fruits, herbs, spices and flowers to make confections that look as good as they taste. Local collaborations up the ante at this chocolatier: The Tea and Toast bar, for example, sees bread from My World Kitchen mixed with white chocolate and black tea for a crunchy snack; while the Kimchi Bar incorporates kimchi from Pyramid Ferments to create a Korean-inspired treat that’s equal parts sweet and spicy. centreandmainchocolate.com
PROMOTION
66 • PROMOTION • VISIT KINGSTON
king(ston) of the castle A destination in its own right, Kingston is home to a vibrant culinary scene, happening nightlife, a walkable downtown and charming 19th-century limestone buildings. Halfway between Toronto and Montreal, Kingston is often treated as just another drive-by town along the seemingly endless 401. But instead of trying to make it all the way to Ottawa without any bathroom breaks (bad idea, trust us) it’s time to pull the car over in Kingston and enjoy the once overlooked city. Vibrant nightlife, a walkable downtown and a burgeoning culinary scene rooted in the farm-to-table movement make Kingston a destination in its own right. Whether you’re looking for a weekend getaway or just want to tack it onto your trip to PEC, Kingston is the place to be.
Start your food journey at Red House with an order – or two – of their crispy buttermilk chicken bites served with honey mustard sauce. These are the chicken fingers that nuggets dream of being when they grow up. Pair with a pint of the Mackinnon/Red House Brothers Ale. After that, if you’re in the mood for more craft brews, stop in at Stone City Ales for suds and some elevated snack plates. Cozy up by the fireplace in the limestonewalled basement bar of Chez Piggy. Start with the Châ Giô, Vietnamese spring rolls, and then follow them up with the On the
Lamb Burger topped with rosemary roasted red pepper aioli and mint chèvre. Another favourite, especially during the cold winter months, is Curry Original. Tuck into a steaming bowl of their lamb vindaloo. Located on the waterfront, Aquaterra offers stellar views and delicious desserts with a focus on sourcing local ingredients. If you’re short on time but eager to get your fill of the Limestone city’s culinary delights, let Kingston Food Tours take you on a walking tour. Their Classic Kingston tour runs just over two hours and brings you to the best local spots for tastings. ◆
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Sahara Desert, Morocco Barcelona, Spain
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PROMOTION
68 • PROMOTION • RETREATIFY
Meet at the Retreat With unique venues around the GTA and options to add on a variety of convenient extras, Retreatify takes the stress out of planning your company getaway. Whether you’re celebrating a major company milestone or setting aside time to brainstorm for the future, a team retreat is an opportunity to disconnect from everyday work life and recharge your creativity. From arranging transportation to planning meals for large groups, however, it’s easy to get sidetracked by the hassle of organizing all the details needed to make your productive getaway a reality. One Toronto-based start-up is helping simplify the process of hosting your next company retreat. Retreatify lets you personalize your corporate getaway with its “build your own retreat” approach to planning. Retreatify partners with vacation homeowners in serene settings near the GTA to offer guests intimate, distinctive venues, so you can innovate in spaces designed to fuel inspiration rather than generic hotel boardrooms. Retreatify’s properties are located within 200 kilometres of the GTA and they’ve recently opened locations in Prince Edward County and Ottawa. Regardless of whether you choose to host your retreat in the Blue Mountains or Muskoka, you can count on a venue that will have everything you’ll need to be productive, from high-speed WiFi and strong cell reception to comfortable work spaces. Spaces also come with HDTVs, table games, well-equipped kitchens and cozy lounging areas for enjoying your downtime. Optional add-ons make it a breeze to customize your retreat. Skip cooking by adding catering or a private chef; or unwind by opting for on-site yoga classes or in-home massages. You can also take advantage of early check-in times that fit your schedule, along with the option of booking multiple nearby venues for larger groups. Let Retreatify take care of the details, so you can focus on getting the most out of your company getaway and creating a memorable experience for your team. To start planning your trip, head to retreatify.com. ◆
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BEST
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THE CHECKLIST In this age of security screening and same-same black luggage, we say stand out. These trusted names will help you travel in style.
IN THE BAG TRADE LUGGAGE BY HERSCHEL: Luggage doesn’t get much more stylish than this family of hard shells. A retractable three-stage trolley handle and multi-directional wheels make each case a breeze to navigate through busy airports, while interior cross-straps and zippered mesh compartments make for intuitive packing. $189.99-$279.99, herschel.ca
WIN THIS Head to @escapismto on Instagram for your chance to win this white two-piece set from Herschel.
◀ PLATINUM ELITE SPINNER BY TRAVELPRO:
Made from stain-resistant nylon fabric, these handsome soft shell cases have handles designed with hand ergonomics in mind. The carry-on size has an external USB port with dedicated powerbank pocket. $279.99-$399.99, travelpro.ca ◀ PLATINUM ELITE TRI-FOLD GARMENT BAG BY TRAVELPRO: This compact garment bag includes interior roll bars that minimize wrinkles, and zippered pockets for packing folded clothes. There is a quart-size wet pocket for toiletries and an exterior zippered pocket for quick access. $269.99, travelpro.ca
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CHECKLIST
ROLL OUT THE RED SPECTRA 2.0
BY VICTORINOX: This family of sleek, red hard
shells stands out brilliantly on the luggage carousel. The 100 per cent polycarbonate construction and corner guards help minimize scratches, and interior stabilizing straps are handy for keeping the case open while packing. $469.99-$479.99, swissarmy.ca
72 • EXCURSIONS • THE CHECKLIST
▼ KÅNKEN BACKPACK
▼TRAVEL WALLET
▼TRAVEL TOILETRY BAG
This iconic backpack has been updated with a cushy laptop compartment and padded shoulder straps. Made from water repellent Vinylon F, it stays clean even with wear and tear. $124.99, fjcanada.ca
Store your in-transit essentials with the help of this sleek, streamlined travel wallet. Travel documents go in the accessible outside pocket and your cash, credit cards and pens inside. $74.99, fjcanada.ca
Organize your bathroom basics with this durable toiletry bag. The polyamide interior fabric is easy to clean, while exterior padding allows the bag to stand up even when it’s empty. $69.99, fjcanada.ca
BY FJÄLLRÄVEN:
▶KÅNKEN 13” LAPTOP CASE BY FJÄLLRÄVEN:
Keep your laptop protected from bumps and scrapes with this sturdy case. Made from a mix of padded polyester and cotton, it features an outside pocket for storing your passport, tickets and documents. $79.99, fjcanada.ca
BY FJÄLLRÄVEN:
BY FJÄLLRÄVEN:
CHECKLIST
TWENTY TWO MEDIA HOLIDAY PARTY • PROMOTION • 73
PROMOTION
in high spirits We kicked off the holidays with a not-so-silent night at the top of the CN Tower.
all the way up To celebrate the season, we gathered 200 of our nearest and dearest to get high – 1,136 ft high above the city on the LookOut Level of the CN Tower. We celebrated the season by sipping on chardonnay from Jacob’s Creek, gin and tonics from Ungava and Fever-Tree, Manhattans courtesy of Crown Royal, and Peroni.
Kennedy Pollard
Meanwhile, the CN Tower’s executive chef, John Morris created a menu of locally-sourced and delicious bites that kept us satiated all night. Thanks to Niagara Parks, one lucky winner took home tickets to an exclusive dinner and parkwide passes.
love triangle Home to beautiful beaches, epic hiking trails, fresh seafood and fine wine, Virginia is a destination for lovers of all the best things in life. Valentine’s Day may be long over, but we’re always looking for ways to bring a little extra love into our lives. This year, Virginia is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its iconic slogan: “Virginia is for Lovers,” so there’s never been a better time to discover the many reasons to fall in love with this triangle-shaped state. Located midway between New York and Florida, Virginia is the gateway to the southern U.S. and less than a 1.5-hour flight away from Toronto. Whether outdoor
activities, relaxation or exceptional food and wine inspire your travels, you’ll find plenty to love in Virginia. Virginia Beach’s 35 miles of sandy coastline is the closest warm water beach to Toronto. Head to the buzzing Resort Area and browse the array of shops, museums and restaurants lined along its scenic oceanfront boardwalk; or escape to peaceful Chesapeake Bay Beach for a relaxing getaway from the hustle-and-bustle. Or maybe you prefer to swap your
swimsuit for some running shoes to explore Virginia’s wealth of picturesque hiking and biking trails. Virginia encompasses onefourth of the famous Appalachian Trail, the longest footpath in the U.S. and a bucket list trek for many hikers. Make the 8.8-mile climb to the top of Old Rag Mountain, one of the most popular hikes in Shenandoah National Park; or take in the state’s scenery at a more leisurely pace along one of the multi-use recreation trails, which have seen old railroad grades repurposed as
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PROMOTION
routes for biking and walking. Find out why Virginia is the selfproclaimed “oyster capital of the east coast,” by sampling some of the state’s famously delicious oysters. There are eight oyster regions in Virginia, each of which harvests oysters with their own distinctive flavours. Compare and contrast the mellow sweetness of oysters from the Lower Bay Eastern Shore with the salty, smooth flavour of oysters from the Tidewater. Home to nearly 300 wineries, Virginia is also an exciting destination for oenophiles.
Dozens of wine trails throughout the state help narrow down your choice of wineries, by mapping out your path for you. Take in the scenery of the Blue Ridge Mountains and Smith Mountain Lake while making your way along the Bedford Wine Trail; or tour some of Virginia’s up-and-coming wineries along the SoVA Wine Trail. ◆ Love beaches? Love the great outdoors? Love food? You’ll find all this and more in Virginia. Discover for yourself why “Virginia is for Lovers” of all kinds. Plan your trip at virginia.org/canada
Virginia has the closest warm water beach to Toronto
Fisherman by Yvone Duivenvoorden; Chef McEwan and Potatoes by Stephen Harris; Brewery by Paul Baglole; Tourism PEI
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PROMOTION
not-so-small potatoes Shaped by fresh seafood and organic, locally-grown ingredients, PEI’s dining scene has much more to offer than potatoes.
Anne of Green Gables might be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Prince Edward Island, but Canada’s smallest province has much more to offer than the curious redhead’s tales (and more than a few Green Gables themed attractions). In addition to outdoor activities, watersports and scenic roads, PEI is also a destination for world-class dining. Widely known as Canada’s Food Island, PEI’s culinary offerings extend far beyond the red soil-grown potatoes. Rooted in farmto-table dining, PEI’s food scene is strongly influenced by the abundance of locallygrown ingredients and the close proximity to the ocean – no matter where you are on the island, you’re never more than 16 km away from the shores of the Atlantic. Enjoy incredibly fresh seafood and produce while taking in the magnificent Island scenery. One of the early pioneers of the farmto-fork movement, Food Network star chef Michael Smith owns and operates the Inn at Bay Fortune, a 5-star country inn on PEI’s east coast. Here his restaurant, FireWorks serves a family-style meal that changes daily to feature the fresh ingredients harvested from the inn’s organic farm. The feast is live-fire cooked with a 25-foot long woodburning fire that incorporates a rotisserie, smokehouse, wood oven and open-hearth grill. Enjoy a tour of the grounds, watch the “Fire Brigade” chefs fire up the feast and then dig into the spread. Head to Malpeque Bay to slurp back a
dozen (or two) of the eponymous oysters on a wharf overlooking the water. Larger in size and an approachable combination of briny and sweet, the famous oysters are harvested directly from the bay. Pair your Malpeques with an oyster stout – a Moth Lane Brewing beer brewed with oysters right in the recipe. Often referred to as the oyster capital of the world, PEI is a top foodie destination for enjoying the freshest mollusks and crustaceans. The plucky island harvests 8 million lbs of Malpeque oysters and 20 million lbs of lobster every year. For those who enjoy playing with their food, Authentic PEI Experiences allow you to tong and shuck oysters for yourself. Other activities include lobster trapping, seine fishing and digging up clams for a fresh chowder or an authentic beach clambake. On the tamer side, walking tours, equestrian and arts experiences provide a window into the culture of PEI. Over 70 experiences allow for every type of traveller to immerse themselves in the island way of life. When it comes to culinary offerings, size really doesn’t matter. Prince Edward Island has an incredible dining scene centered on fresh seafood and local ingredients. For a comprehensive experience, visit PEI in September when the month-long Fall Flavours Festival sees over 60 events across the Island highlighting authentic PEI cuisine and traditions. ◆ For more information about Prince Edward Island, visit explorepei.com
the island harvests 8 million lbs of oysters a year
Explore
Edmundston
tourismedmundston.com 1 866 737-6766
SAHARA DESERT, MOROCCO • EXCURSIONS • 79
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ELCOME TO THE Intrepid Series, the part of escapism where we send our bravest writers to exciting destinations across the globe to bring you our most adrenaline-pumping travel stories. Our daring writers go above and beyond the average traveller, putting their minds and bodies to the test in search of boundary-pushing experiences. In honour of our Culinary Issue, we decided not to completely put our forks down for this installment of Intrepid.
Instead, we send associate editor Jessica Huras to Morocco to discover this North African country’s rich culinary culture and traditions. But this is still Intrepid, so while Jessica gets to relax over tea and tagine eventually, it's only after a long, bumpy trek deep into the Sahara, the largest hot desert in the world, via camel-back. Is she in for a dreamy Arabian-Nights-esque journey or an embarrassing fall off of an angry camel? Flip the page and come along for the ride to find out what happens. ◆
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SPEED HUMP Jessica Huras downs a bottomless supply of tea, rides a camel and spends a night in the desert as she connects with the dream scene that is Morocco.
ABOVE: A caravan of camels is the traditional method of crossing the desert
SAHARA DESERT, MOROCCO • EXCURSIONS • 81
INTREPID
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Jessica Huras
’M SITTING IN a wrought iron chair on a sand-covered terrace in the middle of the desert – and I mean, the MIDDLE of the desert. Just beyond the low, turreted wall wrapping around the terrace is a landscape of windswept sand dunes that stretches beyond the horizon. In the centre of the scene, framed by the dunes, are around a dozen camels kitted out with harnesses, ready to carry me and my group mates even deeper into the Sahara. We’ve just arrived at a basic guest house, where we’ve stashed most of our belongings in storage lockers, taking only what The Sahara desert we’ll need for our is widely known for the singing overnight stay at a sands, an unsolved desert camp. It’s midpiezoelectric afternoon in August, phenomenon that causes the sands to the most scorching hum or sing. hot month of the year in Morocco. We’re waiting for the heat to drop from peak intensity before beginning our trek, so we’re not zapped into vapour by the desert sun. I’m sitting on the terrace of the guest house restaurant, drinking tea while I wait. Ordinarily, a hot drink on a sweaty day would be a firm pass for me but it’s different in Morocco, where tea isn’t just a hot drink – it’s a way of life. There’s some disagreement among historians about exactly when tea was first introduced to Morocco, but it may have been as recently as the 18th century. Regardless of when tea originally arrived in the North African country, Moroccans embraced it fully and even put their own spin on it. Morocco became known for a particular preparation of tea: Green tea, steeped with lots of fresh mint leaves and sweetened with what I’m sure is far more than the recommended total daily intake of sugar. Tea is enjoyed any time of day in Morocco (and often many times throughout the day). Since arriving in Morocco less than four days earlier, I’ve already lost count of the number of cups of tea I’ve had. Servers bring it to our tables in restaurants without question, and it’s offered to us whenever we arrive at a new guest house. Tea is much more than a beverage in Morocco, the act of serving it to someone is a gesture of welcome and friendship. >
> On the first day of our tour, our guide explained that relationships in Morocco are said to develop over three cups of tea: the first you are a stranger; the second you are a friend; and the third, you are family (this turned out to be a quote from a book called, appropriately, Three Cups of Tea). Morocco is a predominantly Muslim country and many locals therefore don’t drink alcohol. Tea, to a large extent, plays the role that alcohol plays in other countries – it’s a social drink to share with friends and to bond over. For this reason, Moroccans have wryly nicknamed tea “Berber whisky” (Berbers are an indigenous ethnic group). I slurp back the remainder of my tea as our guide signals that it’s time for us to meet our camels. I haven’t been on a camel since a quick childhood ride at the zoo and if you’re thinking (like I was) that a camel is around the size of a horse, you’d be very wrong. The closer we get, the more massive the camels seem to become. My camel is tall and wide – so wide that I feel like I need to assume a
with what must be the world’s best data plan is Facetime-ing their parents in Canada), but I’m sticking to my this-bull-could-buckme-off-at-any-second approach to riding, clutching the handle so hard my fingers are starting to hurt. If anyone was going to try to take a selfie, drop their cell and have it get lost in a sea of sand or be crushed by a giant camel foot, it would definitely be me, so I’m not taking any chances. Judgement aside (because I’m definitely not above taking a good travel selfie), I also avoided pulling out my phone because Three Cups of Tea follows the journey this was one of those of a homeless man moments I wanted who encounters to be fully present impoverished mountain villagers for. Some iconic and promises to travel sites pale in build them a school. comparison to your imagination when you finally see them in real life (I’m looking at you, TINY Stonehenge), but not the Sahara. The sand dunes look like frozen ocean
I'M STICKING TO MY THIS-BULL-COULD-BUCKME-OFF-AT-ANY-SECOND APPROACH TO RIDING, CLUTCHING SO HARD MY FINGERS HURT partial-splits posture to swing my leg over its massive, hulking body. Back at home before I left for this trip, I set my out of office message to a (what I thought was hilarious) GIF of a tourist falling head first off a camel. That once amusing image is feeling a little too real now. As you might expect, camels don’t exactly stand up or sit down evenly. Instead, their back legs come up first, thrusting the rider abruptly forward until the front legs straighten and even things out. A painful and embarrassing fall doesn’t seem like an entirely far off possibility if I’m not careful. Our guide encourages me to sit back in the saddle slightly, but I continue gripping the handle as if I’m riding a rodeo bull. Our group is organized into two slowly plodding convoys, each led by a camel handler. Most of my group mates are taking selfies (and one particularly ambitious pair
waves, swelling up in some areas, towering over our heads; and receding in others to reveal an infinite horizon. The dunes seem to close in on the guest house behind us as we ride away, plunging us into complete remoteness. As evening sets in, the sand colour changes from a deep gold to a dusky, reddish-purple and the sun casts pictureperfect shadows of our camel-riding selves onto the dunes. When I’m heading into an unknown scenario in travel (and in life, for that matter), the adage of preparing for the worst but hoping for the best usually serves me well. So, when I was told before the trip that we were going to spend the night at a desert camp, I was fully prepared to be sleeping on a lump of sand under a thin tent. Our real desert camp turns out to be far more comfortable, consisting of a small group of sturdy textile tents, each with >
SAHARA DESERT, MOROCCO • EXCURSIONS • 83
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ABOVE: Tea is a social lubricant in Morocco to such an extent that it is known locally as Berber whisky
INTREPID
84 • EXCURSIONS • SAHARA DESERT, MOROCCO
LEFT: The Sahara Desert is the largest hot desert in the world, stretching for 9 million square kilometres or about 31 per cent of Africa
CLIMBING THE STEEP SAND DUNE FEELS LIKE WADING UPHILL THROUGH MOLASSES > two twin mattresses. Traditional Moroccan carpets are layered between the tents to create pathways across the sand. We settle into our tents quickly, so we can follow our guide’s recommendation to hike up a lofty sand dune nearby to watch the sun set. Climbing the steep sand dune feels like wading uphill through molasses. My legs are already shaky and sore Known for their from being stretched bold, geometric across a camel for patterns, carpets over an hour – and have been a traditional Moroccan now I’m forcing them craft since the to carry me up a sharp Paleolithic era. incline. With every
step, my foot sinks deep into the sand and it feels like my overall trajectory is downward rather than up. After a lot of huffing and puffing (and more than a few breaks), I reach the peak of the dune (or, to be honest, what I consider to be close-enough to the peak in my exhausted state). Fortunately, it’s high enough to offer a spectacular view of the cinematic sunset, as promised. As we awkwardly gallop and slide back down the dune, still battling the pull of the sand, one of our guides begins preparing a tagine over the campfire for dinner. Like tea, tagine has deep roots in Moroccan culture.
The word tagine refers to both a meal (a hearty, stew-like dish) and the vessel that it’s made and served in. There are dozens of tagine recipes – it might feature lamb, beef, chicken or fish, mixed with a variety of different dried fruits, nuts, olives, fresh herbs and spices like cinnamon and cumin. A tagine vessel has two parts: a coneshaped top and a circular bottom. The cone top helps to return moisture down to the food as it slowly cooks over the fire, which improves the texture of tough cuts of meat and results in a more savoury final dish. This cooking technique also minimizes the amount of water needed to cook the food, a key trait in areas where clean water is scarce. Further adding to the tagine’s brilliance as a piece of cookware is the bottom part of the dish, which can be carried from the fire to the table and used for serving. We sit under the stars on cushions set around low tables. Our guide removes the lid of the tagine to reveal a plate of tender veggies layered over succulent chunks of beef. I tuck into the tagine and sip a cup of tea which, as usual, was served automatically with the meal. I reflect again on what our guide said about relationships and three cups of tea. I don’t think it’s just the people I’ve met on this trip that I become closer to with each cup – it’s Morocco as a whole. Countless cups of tea later, Morocco no longer feels like a stranger. ◆
GETTING THERE Turkish Airlines offers direct flights to Casablanca’s Mohammed V International Airport from Toronto. G Adventures’ Moroccan Desert Adventure; Morocco Kasbahs & Desert; and Morocco: Sahara & Beyond tours, which range in length from seven to 15 days, all feature an overnight stay in the Sahara. turkishairlines.com; gadventures.com
Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood
From the 11,245-foot peak of majestic Mt. Hood, to the fertile Willamette Valley farms, Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory is rich with activities to be explored. Escape on amazing roadtrip adventures, starting within 30 minutes of Portland International Airport with direct service from Toronto. From a Tiny Home Village to a nationally registered historic lodge, stay overnight in Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory to explore our scenic byways.
Mt. Hood Scenic Byway
West Cascades Scenic Byway
mthoodterritory.com
Cascading Rivers Scenic Bikeway
Fish Out of Coldwater With quaint small towns and over 100 lakes to discover, Coldwater Country is the gateway to the simple joys of the outdoors.
As the snow begins to thaw and outside temperatures slowly increase, we can’t wait to shake off our winter hibernation and start exploring the great outdoors again. Home to over 100 lakes, charming communities and engaging open air attractions, there’s no better place to celebrate the return of the warm weather than Coldwater Country, Michigan. Located in southern Michigan,
halfway between Chicago and Detroit, Coldwater Country offers diverse lakeside entertainment with a side of friendly, Midwestern charm. Coldwater Country features over 16 miles of boatable area and two chains of lakes – the South or Marble Chain of Lakes is a series of eight connected bodies of water; while the North or Randall Chain of Lakes features seven linked lakes. Rent a pontoon and spend a relaxing
afternoon coasting along the water, admiring the scenery; or get active by renting a canoe or kayak. The area’s beautiful lakes are also prime spots for fishing, with bluegill, pike, walleye and perch among the most common catches. Or maybe you prefer to head to lovely Memorial Park on Messenger Lake or Quincy Park on First Lake to enjoy a day at the beach. While the lakes are a big part of Coldwater
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Events calendar Your guide to Coldwater Country’s event highlights for 2019 Polish Fest Hosted in the town of Bronson, this annual festival returns for its 50th year in July. Expect a lively opening ceremony with prizes and fireworks, followed by three days filled with Polish food and music, plus tournaments, a 5K race, parade and other celebrations dedicated to the Eastern European country. July 18-21 2019. bronson-mi.com Magic Get Together Magic fans from across the globe gather in the town of Colon, nicknamed the Magic Capital of the World, for this four-day event. Now in its 82nd year, the Magic Get Together sees magicians performing in the streets, as well as in restaurants, bars and other venues throughout the city. August 7-10 2019. magicgettogether.com
Country’s unique appeal, there’s also plenty to see and do on land. Beginning in April, you can take a ride on the Little River Railroad, a 100-year-old steam engine train. Enjoy a 1 hour and 45 minute round-trip ride between the towns of Coldwater and Quincy, taking in the sights of this pretty region from a unique perspective onboard a historic train. For another nostalgic experience, head to the Capri Drive-In, a family-owned drive-in theatre dating back to the 1960s. One of only a few remaining drive-in theatres in Michigan, Capri shows new release movies on two massive outdoor screens throughout the summer and fall. Classic movie snacks, from popcorn to pizza, are available at the concession stand.
Take another step back in time with a visit to Allen, known as the Antique Capital of Michigan. This town may be tiny, with a population of less than 200 people, but it’s home to hundreds of antique dealers and a selection that draws collectors from across the U.S. You’ll find over 300 booths of antiques at the Allen Antique Barn; or head to the Hog Creek Antique Mall, which features over 23,000 square feet of space dedicated to antiques and collectibles. Whether you’re cruising along a picturesque lake, taking a scenic railway journey or snacking on popcorn at the drive-in, you’ll find it easy to appreciate life’s simple pleasures in Coldwater Country. Start planning your land and lake adventures at coldwatercountry.com; @ColdwaterCountry ◆
Michigan’s Longest Garage Sale Individuals from across the state come together for this massive community market that stretches 180 miles from New Buffalo to Detroit, along the US-12 corridor. Sale spots are hosted in diverse areas, from homes and farms to parking lots. Expect an eclectic array of collectibles, used goods, as well as fresh produce and homemade items to browse, plus a chance to connect with the Michigan community. August 9-11 2019. US12heritagetrail.org Pints in the Park This outdoor event brings together top music acts, food vendors and local breweries and wineries to celebrate Michigan’s wonderful beer and wine. Hosted in the town of Quincy, profits from the event will be donated to fund the development of a five-mile trail connecting the Village of Quincy with the Coldwater trail system – so you can toast your drinks to a good cause. September 28 2019. pintsinthepark.org
WIN(DSOR) HANDS DOWN With a plethora of great eats and a growing craft booze scene, Windsor Essex – Automotive Capital of Canada – is shifting gears.
Whether you’ve visited Windsor or not, you’re probably familiar with some of the stereotypes surrounding it. A former automotive heavyweight. A sleepy border town. And, ahem, a less than flattering review from talk show host, Stephen Colbert, that we just won’t talk about... But that’s the thing about reputations – they were made to be broken, something Ontario’s southernmost city has been working hard to do. Windsor has seen a rapid revitalization sweep through the city in recent years, bringing with it a growing craft booze scene, a roster of incredible farmto-table restaurants and an abundance of boutique hotels to relax in post-exploring. Pizza has deep roots here – and once you taste a slice, you’ll understand why. Thin and crispy, a classic Windsor pizza features canned mushrooms, shredded pepperoni, and ideally mozzarella from the locally
made Galati Cheese Company. Road test the hallowed food at Armando’s or Arcata. To see the City of Roses’ renaissance in all its glory, head to the Grand Cantina in Ford City. The popular taco joint, decorated with odds and ends from the once-booming Ford Motor Company, is one of many businesses to pop up in the once vacant neighbourhood. If patties are your thing, head to Motor Burger for homemade ales and bun creations like the Asian-inspired Auto-Banh Mi. Rino’s Kitchen, housed inside a 100-year old building, serves locally-sourced pub grub. Stop for brunch at the Twisted Apron or sip on local brews at Kildare House in trendy Walkerville, the home of Canadian Club and Hiram Walker, producer of J.P. Wiser’s. Windsor may be the whisky capital of Canada, but more brews abound: Wolfhead Distillery, the first premium craft distillery in Essex County produces small batch
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spirits like vodka; choose from 30 beers on tap at Craft Heads Brewing downtown; or stay at the Grove Hotel and Brew House, an instagrammable microbrewery in Kingsville. Windsor Essex, the hottest wine region in Canada, is a grape lovers dream. Head to Sprucewood Shores, Ontario’s only beachside-winery; enjoy freshly caught perch at Oxley Estate Winery; or head to Pelee Island Winery, Ontario’s oldest winery. There’s plenty to occupy you in Windsor – but even more adventures await in nearby
Detroit. Hop over the bridge (or take the tunnel bus) for a chili dog from Lafayette Coney Island and catch a game at one of the Big Four. Time your summer trip right and watch the Ford Fireworks show light up the Detroit River from either side of the water. Just a four-hour drive or train trip, or one hour flight from Billy Bishop, you can leave on Friday and make it to one of Windsor’s eclectic bars in time for happy hour. ◆ For more information and to plan your trip, head to visitwindsoressex.com
pizza has deep roots - once you taste a slice, you’ll know why
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90 • EXCURSIONS • SEATTLE, WASHINGTON
SPECIALTIES OF THE HOUSE
PIROSHKY PIROSHKY The queue at this tiny Russian bakery moves speedily, giving you just enough time to make a choice between the cinnamon cardamon bread, the signature smoked salmon pate roll and the many other sweet and savoury snack options. [
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TARGET MARKET Jessica Huras takes a java-fuelled tour of Pike Place Market, the pure representation of Seattle’s pacific attitude and seafood-first diet. addition to the market in 1986 – it’s said that rubbing her snout and making a donation brings good luck. Continuing down Pike Street, you can also visit the first Starbucks in the world at Pike St. and 1st Ave., which opened in 1971. You can expect it to be perpetually lined up out the door unless you get there early. Almost every aspect of the coffee shop has been maintained as it looked when it first opened, so even if you don’t feel like getting in line, you can still take a peek at the old-school exterior on your way by. Take your time wandering through the market’s maze of covered buildings, browsing fresh produce stalls, butchers, bakeries and speciality shops. Bring your appetite and pick up snacks to munch on as you explore; or, if you’re lucky enough to catch Seattle on a sunny day, gather a picnic and move to one of the city’s parks. ◆
ELLENOS REAL GREEK YOGURT Fans will tell you this is the best yogurt not just in Seattle, but in the whole U.S. Made using local milk and a carefully-guarded blend of probiotic cultures, this Greek yogurt is smoother and thicker than the store-bought stuff.
Pike Place by Moderndest; Piroshky Piroshky Bakery ; Beecher’s Handmade Cheese
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HERE’S NO PLACE that singularly captures the eclectic spirit of Seattle quite like Pike Place Market. Open since 1907, it’s one of the largest and oldest public markets in the U.S., a storefront for over 500 farmers, fishmongers, arts and crafts vendors, specialty shops and restaurants. The nine-acre waterfront space is the city’s most popular tourist attraction, but it also continues to be a place where locals come to meet, shop and eat. Start your visit with a stop at the iconic Public Market sign on Pike Street, which was installed in 1927. At the main entrance, you’ll see a crowd gathering around Pike Place Fish Co. to watch the lively fishmongers toss their catches to one another. You’ll also spot a bronze statue of the market’s mascot, Rachel the Pig, which doubles as a huge piggy bank. She’s collected over $200,000 for local charities since her
BEECHER’S HANDMADE CHEESE You can watch cheese being made using centuries-old, traditional recipes in this market favourite. They’re known for their indulgent macaroni and cheese, which you can take to go or enjoy at their adjacent cafe.
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LIKE A LOCAL
Before opening his restaurant, Labora, Toronto-based chef and owner Rob Bragagnolo lived in Spain for 14 years. Here are his picks for the best of Barcelona.
BOQUERIA MARKET
La Boqueria is a mixture of shops, restaurants and stalls selling raw ingredients. Get xuixo for breakfast or homemade meatballs for lunch at Bar Pinoxto, a diner counter. The owner is usually there, greeting customers.
QUIMET Y QUIMET
Part tapas bar, part wine-selling bodega, Quimet y Quimet is a counter-style eatery without any seats. Diners crowd in to stand and eat against the walls in the cozy but bustling atmosphere. The décor consists of wall-to-wall shelves of bottles – the only way to store them in the tiny space. I love popping in here to grab a quick lunch of mussels or escabeche with a glass of wine.
FOOTBALL MATCH
During an FC Barcelona match, the entire city shuts down. At the game, there are about 90,000 people in the stadium at the same time all singing, chanting and wearing the same colours. It’s a great experience.
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Barcelona by Georgios Tsichlis; Ham by Zoltan Kovacs; Stadium by Saurav Rastogi; Onions by De Repente
ABOVE: Barcelona’s Park Güell is the best place to see Gaudi’s work during his fantastic, naturalistic phase in the early 20th century.
CALÇOTADA
You might have to befriend locals to get invited to a calçotada, a Catalonian spring onion celebration. The festivities involve grilling calçots over an open fire and drinking wine. Every spring at Labora, we do our take on calçotada.
BODEGA 1900
Specializing in vermouth and the dishes that go best with it, Albert Adrià’s Bodega 1900 pays hommage to Barcelona’s vermouth bars at the dawn of the 20th century. It’s a remarkable place that feels casual but the dining experience is world class. The ingredients are fresh and everything is done to the nth-degree. Get the house coupage with anchovies – they’re the best I’ve had. ◆
GETTING THERE Both Air Canada and WestJet fly directly from Pearson to Barcelona-El Prat Airport in just under eight hours. Flight frequency picks up in warmer months. aircanada.com, westjet.com
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THE SELECTOR
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Plan your next trip around a lights-out meal, taste the best in craft beer and know what to bring back with these selections.
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E xc e pt ion al Eats 2) HONG KONG, CHINA
Five-star dining and seven-course tasting menus are alive and well in these cities specializing in luxe restaurants.
1) SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA There are 57 restaurants in the Bay Area
with at least one Michelin star. Eight have three stars, compared to five in NYC. At Sons & Daughters, owner-chef Teague Moriarty creates multi-course tasting menus from seasonal
ingredients. Chef Michael Tusk’s Quince delivers the same localfirst ethos in a sophisticated room complete with white tablecloths. From Thai at Kin Khao to sushi at Kinjo, options abound.
The Michelin star rating system began in 1889, originally used to teach motorists where to fill up on gas and how to change a tire, before becoming the restaurant guide we know today.
Hong Kong is home to over 400 fine dining venues, including around 60 spots that have Michelin stars. Locals tend to be driven by trends (not unlike another city we know well) but regardless of whether you choose a reliable
favourite or the latest buzz-worthy spot, you’d be hard pressed to have a bad meal when visiting the Pearl of the Orient. Splurge on Cantonese fare in an artsy setting at Duddell’s; savour handmade Italian pasta paired with wonderful wines at 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana; or reserve one of Ronin’s 14 seats for an upscale, izakaya experience.
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3) LIMA, PERU Lima’s culinary scene has been getting attention over the last decade, with restaurants like Central Restaurante and Maido earning spots on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Peru’s local cuisine blends an exciting mix of Spanish, Italian,
4) SAO PAULO, BRAZIL Home to 14 Michelin-starred restaurants, Brazil’s largest city has one of South America’s most varied dining scenes. While many chefs are putting their spin on Brazil’s own distinctive cuisine, the city’s large
Chinese, French and Japanese influences, and local chefs are embracing it like never before and introducing it to the world. Head to Astrid y Gaston, whose chef Gaston Acurio is known for helping fuel the rise of the city’s dining scene, for an epic 30-plate meal; or try Rafael for inspired fusion fare and an impressive spirits menu.
Italian, Japanese and Middle Eastern communities ensure the pasta and the sushi are as good as the moqueca. Fine dining highlights include D.O.M, which has been scooping up international awards for its Brazilian cuisine for over 15 years; and Restaurant Fasano, a long-standing Italian favourite in the luxurious Fasano Sao Paulo hotel.
5) COPENHAGEN, DENMARK Fine dining in Copenhagen is practically synonymous with Noma, an innovative Nordic restaurant that regularly
ranks among the world’s best. But there’s more to the Scandinavian metropolis than this famed restaurant, with dozens of other venues to choose from (including 15 that have Michelin stars). Topping the list is Geranium, which offers prime
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This Brazilian seafood stew is slow cooked with salt water fish, tomatoes, onions, coconut milk, garlic and coriander.
H o p s p ots Quince; Duddell’s; Restaurante Central; D.O.M; Suresh Doss; Burial
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views over the city in and beautifully plated dishes made with local, organic ingredients. Or take a detour from Scandinavian fare at Kiin Kiin, one of the only Thai restaurants outside of Thailand to earn Michelin recognition.
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Go beyond San Diego and Brussels to experience how craft beer is on the rise in cities all over the world.
1) ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA Asheville has 21.6 breweries per 100,000 residents.
What does that mean for you? A higher chance of getting your hands on a pint from one of the dozens of breweries nestled in almost every corner of the city. Be sure to check out one of their many
beer festivals taking place year round. Brewery-wise, Burial, Highland and Wicked Weed are the big names. The basement bar at the Thirsty Monk is a legendary spot with an extra-deep beer list.
2) OTTAWA, ONTARIO
3) MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA
The fastest rising star in Canadian craft beer deserves a place beside Toronto and Vancouver. The number of breweries in the capital has exploded in recent years. Brew Donkey hosts regular craft beer tours to help get you started. Pay a visit to Bicycle and order the wheely good Velocipede IPA, or sample high-alcohol brews at Beyond the Pale. Tooth & Nail has a deep all-gold list and Flora Hall is located just off walkable Bank Street.
Beer bars are brewing competition for the city’s well-known baristas. Best part: Melbourne’s craft beer scene stretches from one end to the other. In beachside St. Kilda, pick from the rotating taps (300 in a year) at the Local Taphouse or head to Thunder Road Brewhouse in multicultural Brunswick East. Or, take the tram to Collingwood and choose from 24-taps at Stomping Ground with a beer garden and retractable roof.
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St. Kilda is home to Melbourne’s famous tourist attractions, like St. Kilda beach, several renowned theatres and many of the city’s big events and festivals.
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4) ROME, ITALY Wine isn’t the only thing to pair with all that cacio e pepe – Rome has seen a recent beer boom. The Eternal City has several great
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5) CHICAGO, ILLINOIS The Windy City has long been known as a foodie mecca, but a huge boom in the last few years has seen the beer on tap become equally worthy of mention. Makes sense with lake water on one side and all that midwestern grain on the other, right?
options, including Open Baladin (on a side street close to the Campo de’ Fiori market), Be.Re. where you can pair beer with fluffy pizza, or Bir & Fud in the Trastevere area. But if you only have time to fit in one beer stop,
Spots like Bangers & Lace, Revolution, Moody Tongue and Band of Bohemia, the country’s only brewpub with a Michelin star, pour a diverse selection of food-friendly beer. Craft brewers in the Chicago area occupy more square feet of commercial real estate than those of any other U.S. city. Corridor, Begyle and Horse Thief Hollow are all worth a special visit.
make sure it’s Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa’. The small but mighty beer bar has an impressive selection of Italian and international craft options. In nice weather, grab a glass and join the late-night party in the street.
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so uve n ir su st en a n c e A postcard for our food-obsessed 21st-century culture, these edible items are worth risking overweight luggage.
2) KIT KATS FROM JAPAN
The Caribbean is home to some of the world’s most delicious rums, and Barbados is known for its boozy contributions to that list. Bajan rums are better than most when it comes to quality and strength – the island has been producing the spirit for over 350 years. There are four different distilleries in Barbados. During your stay, pick up a bottle of the islands’ renowned golden brown rum or take a tour of the Mount Gay visitors’ centre.
Considered a good luck charm for students taking exams – the name Kit Kat sounds similar to a Japanese phrase meaning “I’ll surely win” – this chocolate bar has become a sensation in Japan. While prices for the bitesized chocolates are a bit steeper than what we’re used to, it’s worth it to get your hands – and your taste buds – on flavours that are only available in specific areas of Japan. Get purple sweet potato
Kit Kat has developed over 300 flavours in Japan, but the country falls into second place when it comes to the highest consumption worldwide, with the UK placing first.
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There are five different species of wild salmon in the cold waters off the coast of British Columbia. Considered the most delicious of all the Pacific salmon, sockeye is distinguishable by its deep-red
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flesh and full-fat flavour. In B.C., it’s especially easy to get your hands on some savoury sockeye, whether you’re buying from a market, specialty seafood shop, grocery store or directly at wharfside. Enjoy fresh sockeye salmon while in B.C. but look for smoked salmon with a longer shelf life to take home.
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Bicycle; Local Taphouse; Be.Re.; Moody Tongue; Macca Sherifi; SAPhotog; Ekaterina Kondratova; Roberta Sorge; Paul Stringer
1) RUM FROM BARBADOS
flavoured Kit Kats in Okinawa, banana in Tokyo, matcha green tea in Kyoto and Tamaruya Honten wasabi in Kanto. More common flavours like strawberry cheesecake and Japanese sake can be found throughout Japan.
4) OLIVE OIL FROM ITALY
5) CADBURY FROM THE UK
A staple in Italian cooking, high quality extra virgin olive oil can be found in all corners of the bootshaped country, from supermarkets to petite gourmet grocery shops. Over 350 different varieties of olives are grown in Italy and with olive oil, the fresher it is, the better it tastes. Visit an estate producer or farm where the olives are grown, cold-pressed and bottled on site to get the very best of the golden liquid. Don’t forget to wrap and secure your bottle in your checked baggage to avoid an oil slick in your suitcase.
After experiencing the smooth, creamy chocolate made in the UK, our cocoa confectioneries taste like waxy knock-offs. Regulations in the UK mean a higher percentage of cocoa is required for the candy to qualify as chocolate – which makes it (there’s no other way to put it) more chocolate-y. Grab anything Cadbury while you’re there, but be on the lookout for items we don’t have here like the Fudge Minis or Dinky Deckers. Head to Cadbury World in Birmingham for the ultimate chocolate experience.
REAR VIEW
98 • EXCURSIONS • BANJARMASIN, INDONESIA
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terapung” in Indonesian. Near the city of Banjarmasin, the Lok Baintan market sets up on the Martapura River and the Muara Kuin market is held at the junction of the Barito and Kuin Rivers. Each morning at dawn, Banjar people pile their wares into small boats and gather on the water to sell and trade everything from freshly grown fruits and vegetables to fish, eggs and oil. ◆
Saipullah Srg
REAR VIEW
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HILE THE BOAT bazaars of Bangkok may get all the attention, floating markets have a strong presence all over Asia. For communities built around rivers, the waterways are an integral part of life, for transport and as a place to congregate and trade goods. On the island of Borneo, South Kalimantan is known for these floating markets – called “pasar
Expand YOUR PALATE
JUST EAST OF TORONTO
Rolling Grape Winery
Learn more on pages 64-65 and at TasteKN.ca
Pie Eyed MonkBrewery
Northumberland Hills Brewery
A FRESH
Taste OF PLACE
JUST EAST OF TORONTO
Find the flavours of Kawarthas Northumberland on pages 64-65 and at TasteKN.ca
