Foodism - 17 - Toronto, food and drink by Twenty Two Media Group

T O R O N T O , O N E B I T E AT A T I M E

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EATS & ENTERTAINMENT The perfect combination. Whether you’re eating with friends, meeting a date, catching a show or setting a high score, it’s all happening at The Rec Room. Inspired by Canada’s vast and varied landscape, The Rec Room’s THREE10 restaurant offers a menu that is a true expression of what it means to be Canadian. Handcrafted dishes with flavours as diverse as our nation, from coast to coast.

Plan your visit at TheRecRoom.com

EATS & ENTERTAINMENT

Experience

Spain, no passport

required.

Photography: Ian Dingle Art Direction: Matthew Hasteley, April Tran

EDITORIAL EDITOR AT LARGE

Suresh Doss

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Jessica Huras STAFF WRITER

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Taylor Newlands COPY EDITOR

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or the past few years, I’ve been enjoying a summer-weekend ritual that kicks off in the bohemian neighbourhood near College and Bathurst. It usually starts with a morning visit to a coffee shop as the city blooms to life and Kensington’s narrow streets start to fill up. From there, the options are conveniently open and within easy walking distance. I like a good, shatteringly crisp croissant for a snack before crossing the street for a plate of chorizo tacos. Or maybe a browse through one of the many Asian shops that now call the neighbourhood home. If the sun gods are feeling generous, my plans inevitably include a patio or a drink at a watering hole tucked away in an unassuming knick-knack shop. Like many other corners of the city, Kensington Market is a wild combination of culture and food – in this case, compressed into a handful of lanes in the centre of our city. It’s one of Toronto’s best neighbourhoods with its unusal, beatnik vibe. Torontonians are particular about their summer rituals. Ask your friends or colleagues for theirs and I’m confident they’ll want to tell you about a similar itinerary. In our annual summer guide, you’ll find plenty of inspiration for planning your summer eating and drinking in and around our great city (pg. 34). Then, join us on a neighbourhood booze crawl (pg. 96), an east-side beer tour (pg. 52) or pause for a meal in a spot with breathtaking interior design (pg. 40). We only get a few months of peak hot weather, so we might as well use it. Fall will be here before long. f

T O R O N T O , O N E B I T E AT A T I M E

GRAZE 010

THE FOODIST

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DAYTRIPPER

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THE RADAR

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WHAT’S IN STORE

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WEAPONS OF CHOICE

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RECIPES LAWRENCE LA PIANTA

FEAST 034

SUMMER OF SIXTY DINE

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DINE IN DASHING DENS

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THREE WISER WOMEN

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YEAST IN THE EAST

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COCKTAIL HOUR

EXCESS 070

Suresh Doss Editor-at-Large foodismto

facebook.com/foodismto

@foodismto

HOLY MOLE!

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INSIDER

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BOTTLE SERVICE

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FOODISM’S FINEST

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THE DIGEST

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THE SELECTOR

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DECONSTRUCT

© Foodism Toronto 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All information contained in this magazine is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Foodism Toronto cannot accept responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Foodism Toronto a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine. All material is sent at your own risk and although every care is taken, neither Foodism Toronto nor its employees, agents or subcontractors shall be held liable resulting for loss or damage. Foodism Toronto endeavours to respect the intellectual property of the owners of copyrighted material reproduced herein. If you identify yourself as the copyright holder of material we have wrongly attributed, please contact the office.

Restaurant quality at home.

For recipes, visit eatwithriserva.ca

— PART 1 —

GRAZE “IT’S ALL WELCOME IN MY OPINION. THERE IS NO SUPERIOR STYLE OF BARBECUE.” LAWRENCE LA PIANTA, 031

1. W E ST SIDE B EEF

THE FOODIST

Can Toronto food festivals be more than just one giant lineup? Jessica Huras gives them one more chance.

REALLY WANT TO like Toronto’s summer food festivals, I really do. You’re reading this magazine, so it’s a safe bet that you agree Toronto has a kicking food scene. Our restaurant options are more diverse, creative and high-quality than ever, but – record scratch noise – our street food choices are seriously lacking. And that’s why I want to love food festivals: they’re one of the only opportunities we have to experience street food culture in our city. Some of my favourite memories of eating in different cities around the world include scenes where the streets come to life in the evening; when everyone finishes work and spills onto the sidewalks to snack and socialize. When I go to a food festival, I want to feel the same, soul-warming sense of coming together as a community. Getting to fill our bellies is secondary. Instead, the few times I’ve braved a food festival in Toronto, they’ve been as crowded and frustrating as a rush-hour TTC commute. There are typically so many festival-goers

competing for food that I barely know what dish I’m lining up for, let alone if I’m even standing in an actual line or just a random clump of people. After a lot of confusion and impatient toe-tapping, if I finally manage to get my hands on a plate of food, it’s another battle to actually eat it without having it elbowed onto the ground by some passing, wild-limbed stranger. But I want to give food festivals another chance, so this year, I’m approaching the summer season with a strategy. The biggest key is to plan ahead. Rather than going in blind as I have in the past, I’ll be targeting a short list of vendors that I’ve vetted by skimming the festival sites ahead of time. As well as knowing which vendors I want to hit, my plan is to embrace the crowds and enjoy the buzzing festival energy, rather than sulking about long line-ups. Whether or not Toronto’s festivals are exactly what I think they should be, their essence is still street food culture at its best: people coming together to celebrate and eat good food. f

Online-only West Side Beef bills itself as a “meat share”. They buy Ontario meat directly from farmers, divide it up into equal portions and then deliver it to customers who have each purchased a share. Founded by the team behind Richmond Station, West Side Beef is run out of the restaurant’s meat locker so all the butchery is done by professional chefs. westsidebeef.com

2. B E SPOK E B UTCH ERS These guys have your summertime, sizzling sausage needs covered. Their wieners range in meat type, size and flavour – chorizo verde, Toulouse and blueberry venison among them. In the display case, familiar options like striploin and brisket join lesser known cuts of beef like picanha and chuck tail. They deal with farmers who prioritize animal welfare. bespokecraft foods.com

3. C U M B RAE’S All of their meat is sourced from small, family-run farms in Quebec and Ontario. If you want to get grilling but don’t have the time to cook everything from scratch, they have a selection of preseasoned meat like clover honey and Dijon-marinated pork chops, sriracha lime chicken breast and sirloin steak kabobs in teriyaki. A pickup service means no need to find parking. cumbraes.com

Photography: Yulia Grigoryeva / Shutterstock.com

A CUT ABOVE

This summer, fill your grill with goods from the best butchers in Toronto – all with a local-first focus.

We have as many “must-tastes” as we have “must-dos.”

ExplorepEi.com

DAY TRIPPER Scarborough, the GTA's most diverse burb, needs an entire day of eating.

What's the vibe? Over the last four decades, the sprawling suburb east of Vic Park has welcomed several waves of new immigrants from all across the globe. So, it’s no surprise that Scarborough is touted as one of the most diverse places for international food. Travellers and food junkies who want to venture off the beaten path for a deeper dose of regional cuisine go here.

SHAWARMA ROW

Locals head to a section of Lawrence from Victoria Park to Warden that has become a haven for food from the Middle East. At the restaurants and shops here you’ll find food and drink from every corner of the eastern Med.

1 Aleppo Kebab; 1960 Lawrence Ave E. Start a Syrian-style meal with thick rounds of spiced flat bread and fattoush salad then move on to charcoal-cooked peppers and meat. The signature dish, Aleppo kebab, is a skewer of spiced veal served over a bed of fluffy rice.

Don't miss Scarborough is a large burb and no two neighbourhoods look or taste alike. Once home to a large Eastern European population, Scarborough has become home to Vietnamese, Sri Lankan, Filipino and Middle Eastern newcomers. For a taste of what’s dubbed “Shawarma Row” drive east on Lawrence Avenue East to Pharmacy. You’ll find more regional Asian food at Skycity Plaza on Midland Avenue than anywhere else in the city.

Getting there Scarborough is bisected by the 401 and the Don Valley Parkway is a few blocks from its western boundary. By car from downtown, head north on the DVP then east on Lawrence or York Mills until you hit Victoria Park. By TTC, take Line 4 from Sheppard-Yonge to Fairview Mall and then hop on the Sheppard East bus to get to Skycity Plaza. f

2 Ghadir Fish Restaurant; 1846 Lawrence Ave. E. Sister to the shawarma shop, it was opened to showcase coastal Beirut cuisine. Have your catch-of-theday grilled or fried with a generous dose of Lebanese spices. Smoked baba ghanoush and hummus are also must-haves.

CRUISE THE STRIP

Low rents and vibrant local communities are two reasons why there is so much good regional Asian food in Scarborough. Here, you’ll find endless strip malls filled with eateries of all shapes and sizes.

3 Gourmet Malaysia; 4466 Sheppard Ave. E. #101 Get an intro to classics like laksa (ramen’s fiery cousin) and char kway teow (flat noodles with spices) at this crowd favourite. The menu spans Southeast Asia from Singapore to Indonesia and back to Malaysia.

4 Fishman Lobster Clubhouse; 4020 Finch Ave. E. Picture a dining room surrounded by dozens of tanks filled with a variety of marine life. Fishman is an unabashed feast of platters stacked high with shellfish. Pick from king crab, lobster or Vancouver crab and they’ll cook it.

WIN

a Long Weekend for Two in Berlin!

Discover cool wines, cool styles and cool flavours.

For more info please visit

germanwinecanada.com

Dry Riesling. Luscious Pinot Noir. Crisp Pinot Gris.

FOODISMTO

THE RADAR Plan your summer outings around these hot new spots in Toronto's restaurant scene. R EYNA ON KI N G Restaurateur Nicki Laborie is adding yet another link to her chain with the introduction of Reyna on King. In addition to the Yorkville staple, which opened in 2016, and a follow-up location inside Assembly Chef’s Hall, lovers of the cocktail and snack bar will now be able to find Mediterranean small bites, freshly baked pastries and specialty drinks in the growing foodie row of Corktown. Ariel Coplan (Thoroughbred) will be heading up the kitchen at the new east side location, serving up a mix of Lebanese, Portuguese, Greek, Turkish and Moroccan flavours. Dine in on falafel, baklava and Arabic fries and enjoy the sleek Santorini vibes, with white walls, foliage dangling overhead and exposed light bulbs – or grab breakfast and lunch to go from 10:30 a.m. until 3:30 p.m. barreyna.com

BAR VO L O

ST E AM W HIST L E B IE R GÄRT E N After 19 years of pouring pure pilsner at the Roundhouse, Steamwhistle Brewery is unveiling its new Biergärten this spring. In addition to sipping on their Czech-style beer, guests will be able to sample German fare created by the Food Dudes, like pretzels, schnitzel and roast chicken (plus vegfriendly options), at the Munich-inspired indoor beer hall. steamwhistle.ca

ASCAR I Fans of delicious homemade pasta and wine no longer need to head to Leslieville for Ascari’s signature brand of Italian eats. The neighbourhood spot, named after 1950s Italian racing legend Alberto Ascari, will be opening a second outpost in the King and Portland ’hood, a pocket already blessed with outstanding eating options. Choose from spuntini (small bites) like chicken liver mousse and charcoal-grilled lamb, or carb up on their pasta, all made fresh daily. ascarienoteca.ca

U DON K ITANOYA Toronto's first Kansai-style udon noodle restaurant has arrived at Bloor and Bathurst. From the geniuses behind Fuwa Fuwa Japanese pancakes, Udon Kitanoya serves 15 types of hot and cold udon dishes plus Japanese snacks. Executive chef Shikatani Masatoshi is the latest Japanese talent migrating to the city, bringing 30 years of cooking experience. The restaurant offers classic niku udon dishes as well as Westerninspired options like butter garlic clam and crab chili tomatoes. udonkitanoya.com

After succumbing to the condo curse in 2016, legendary beer hub Bar Volo announced that it will be resurrecting its taps in Toronto and adding a brewery to its resume. According to their Instagram account, the new Bar Volo will be opening on St. Nicholas Street, just around the corner from its former location north of Yonge and Wellesley. barvolo.com

BA R VE NDET TA When the Black Hoof closed, it left a horsetartare-shaped hole in our lives and we were keen to see what Jen Agg's former flagship would become. Our curiosity was (partly) satiated by the news that the Dundas West spot will be reopening as a wine and pasta bar. Other details about the space are sketchy, but it's rumoured to be opening in July. @barvendetta

M ASC O T B R EW E RY Patio fans, rejoice. One of our favourite spots for a rooftop beer closed its Mercer Street doors last year, but Mascot Brewery will be back in time for summer 2019. In the former Los Colibris spot at 220 King St. W., they're bringing brewing back to the downtown core, and – we hope – filling the beers-in-thebackyard void created when El Patio closed. mascotbrewery.com

PROVISIONS PLUS

Masterful Meals

WHAT’S IN STORE

Taylor Newlands finds out the secret to Summerhill Market’s decades-spanning success.

While the grocer continues to improve and evolve, not much has changed over the course of three generations and more than 60 years. “The core values and what we do has never changed and probably never will,” McMullen says. Summerhill Market has always supported local and independent suppliers. Brands like Manoucher Food & Co., Neal Brothers Foods and ShaSha Bread Co. had a place at Summerhill Market when they were just starting out, and the grocer continues to act as an incubator for up-and-coming producers. All of their beef is local, their chicken is free-range, local and antibioticfree – even their shrimp is from Ontario. Between the bakery and kitchen, Summerhill Market makes more than 700 food items in house. Their prepared meals run the gamut from quiche to chana masala. Years of trial and error led to the level of quality of these dishes today. “That doesn’t come by accident” McMullen says, “that’s years of learning from our mistakes.” f

Plant-based Products Summerhill Market’s plentiful vegan offerings are meant to keep up with the demand for plant-based offerings. One of the first to sell the Beyond Meat burger, they’re quick to add new items. Coconut yogurt, gourmet tofu and Just Egg (the latest vegan egg substitute) can all be found here.

Top Trends Whatever the latest trending food item – pink coconut water to cold-pressed juice – you’re sure to find it here. Staying up to date with new products is part of their ethos. They carry the UnBun, a keto-friendly, gluten-free bun, and several varieties of oat milk.

Photography: April Tran

UCKED AMONGST QUIET green streets and oversized houses, Summerhill Market has been an institution in Rosedale for more than half a century. The foodie wonderland, now home to an incredible selection of grocery items and prepared meals, had a humble beginning as a convenience store with a produce section. Founded by Frank McMullen in 1954, Summerhill Market has been passed down through the hands of three generations. Brad McMullen, Frank’s grandson, got his start at the family-run market 23 years ago while his father was still at the helm. He worked up through the meat and grocery departments before becoming a manager and eventually taking the reins. “You never really feel like you’re running the business – the business is running us,” he says. In 2004, the Summerhill store doubled in size and two new locations are on the way: One slated to open in the Annex this fall and another one at Eglinton and Avenue Road is expected in early 2020.

A whole team oversees the prepared food programme. Between executive chef Curt Martin, Thai chef Jay Kowi, Indian chef Chris Rozario and vegan chef Lindsay Porteous, each cuisine gets its due attention as part of their dish development process.

Now Available in Vintages

A R E F R E S H I N G N E W LO O K FO R

A mile of golden Rapaura land studded with nature’s wonderous stones, makes our exceptional Stoneleigh® Latitude wines.

A WONDER OF NATURE

WEAPONS OF CHOICE Use these tools to complement your al fresco cooking chops this season. PHOTOGRAPHY BY KAILEE MANDEL STYLING BY APRIL TRAN

F L IP IT AND R EVE RSE IT STAINLESS STEEL BBQ TOOL SET If you take grilling seriously, you need the tools to back up your game. This swanky set includes a spatula, fork, tongs and a basting brush in durable stainless steel. Store the black case by your BBQ or bring it to the next cookout for the ultimate grilling power move. $189.95 williams-sonoma.ca

ALL UP IN MY GRILL PHILLIPS INFRARED INDOOR BBQ GRILL Want that smoky BBQ taste without the splatter and wailing smoke detectors? Infrared technology gets food hot with way less smoke than conventional indoor electric grills. Now you can sear food while keeping things juicy on the inside. $379.99 thebay.com

RAISE T HE ST E AKS HAMILTON BEACH SEARING GRILL Even if you're not blessed with a backyard BBQ, you can still get perfectly cooked meat and veggies any time of year. Watch through the window to see when your dinner's done, then whip off the lid for super easy cleanup. $89.97 thebay.com

Italian

quality,

timeless

“Choose Cavit, drink responsibly.”

CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EC) REGULATIONS NO. 1308/13

tradition

The Cavit Collection Pinot Grigio is steeped in the flavours of Trentino, a unique Italian region. Discover the Pinot Grigio: elegant, crisp and refreshing, with a delicate floral aroma and notes of citrus, apple and pear. CAVIT. LOVE IT. SHARE IT.

Recipes

AL FRESCO FEASTING

Close your laptop and get out of the kitchen this summer with cookbooks from Hetty McKinnon and Josiah Citrin that will inspire more outdoor eating.

HEN THE WEATHER starts to warm up, the last place we want to spend our time is sweating over a hot stove. The long, lazy days of summer are all about minimizing our time in the kitchen and instead, firing up the BBQ and embracing the simple flavours of grilled meats and quick side dishes. We're helping you make the most of the al fresco cooking season with two books that have inspired us to eat outside more often. Bestselling author and salad queen Hetty McKinnon's new cookbook, Family: New Vegetarian Comfort Food to Nourish Every Day ($48.69, amazon.ca), aims to take the planning out of picnics. McKinnon is famous

for Arthur Street Kitchen, her independent home-delivery business in London that focuses on internationally inspired vegetarian food. McKinnon’s book swaps out the usual cold sandwiches with more sophisticated picnic pickings like roasted cauliflower and asparagus gnocchi. For the aspiring grill master, we've chosen a book that takes the intimidation out of cooking over charcoal. Chef Josiah Citrin translates the vibe – culinary and otherwise – of his casual Venice, California grill house to the pages of Charcoal: New Ways to Cook with Fire ($40, amazon.ca). It offers accessible recipes for getting that “kiss of fire” on vegetables and meat. f

FOODISMTO

FOODISM RECIPES, IN ASSOCIATION WITH CAVIT COLLECTION Cavit winery is set in Italy’s northern Trentino region, a picturesque area known for its spectacular mountain-scapes and lush wilderness. Here, the vineyard benefits from a warming lake effect that naturally protects its grapes from moisture and disease. The region’s warm days and cool evenings create idyllic conditions for producing wines with

intense aromas and flavours, a signature characteristic of the Cavit Collection. Cavit is committed to eco-friendly vineyard and winery practices, aiming to make the production process as sustainable as possible without compromising on quality. This stellar range of high-quality, foodfriendly wines is perfect for any occasion.

Hetty McKinnon’s

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER

Roasted cauliflower has a sturdy wholesomeness that goes well with the brightness of mint and bean sprouts.

PAIR THIS

Cavit Pinot Grigio 2018

This white is a summer symphony of tropical and floral notes, undertoned by bright citrus on the palate. Pair with summer salads. LCBO #99218

ING R E DIE NTS Cauliflower ◆◆ 1 cauliflower head (1¾ lbs),

cut into large florets ◆◆ Extra-virgin olive oil

◆◆ 1 cup quinoa, rinsed

Method

1 Preheat the oven to 400 F. 2 Place the cauliflower florets on a baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Roast for 20–25 minutes, until tender and golden. Remove from the oven and season with salt and black pepper. 3 Add the quinoa to a saucepan and pour over the vegetable stock or water. Bring to the boil, then cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 15–20 minutes, until translucent and all the liquid has been absorbed. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for 5–10 minutes. Fluff with a fork. 4 Bring a small pot of well-salted water to the boil. Blanch the peas – including the peas for the yogurt sauce – for 60 seconds. Drain and refresh under cold running water until completely cold. Set aside. 5 To make the mint-pea yogurt, combine the mint, ½ cup of the blanched peas and the yogurt in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Add the olive oil and maple syrup or honey, season with sea salt and black pepper, and blend until everything is combined. 6 Combine the cauliflower, quinoa and peas, drizzle with some more olive oil, and season to taste with sea salt and black pepper. To serve, dollop the pea yogurt all over the cauliflower and top with sprouts or microgreens and mint leaves. f

◆◆ 2 cups vegetable stock or

water

◆◆ 2 cups frozen peas

◆◆ 1 cup bean sprouts or

microgreens

◆◆ ¼ cup mint leaves ◆◆ Sea salt and black pepper

Mint-Pea Yogurt ◆◆ ½ cup frozen peas ◆◆ ¼ cup mint leaves

◆◆ 1 cup Greek yogurt

◆◆ 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

◆◆ 1 tsp maple syrup or honey

Hetty McKinnon’s

GNOCCHI WITH ASPARAGUS Store-bought gnocchi provides the perfect canvas for these spring vegetables. Less time spent making pasta means more time for basking in the summer sun. Method

I NG REDI EN TS Gnocchi with Asparagus ◆◆ 1 lb store-bought potato

gnocchi ◆◆ Extra-virgin olive oil

◆◆ 1 large bunch of asparagus (1

lb), woody stems removed, cut into 2-inch pieces ◆◆ 1 cup (frozen shelled edamame beans ◆◆ 1 Tbsp chopped chives ◆◆ Juice of 1 small lemon ◆◆ 2 oz Parmesan, shaved ◆◆ Sea salt and black pepper

1 Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and add the gnocchi. Cook for 2 – 3 minutes, until the gnocchi float to the top. Drain and refresh under cold running water. 2 Heat a large frying pan over medium–high heat, drizzle with oil, and, once hot, add the asparagus and a pinch of sea salt. Fry for about 2 minutes, until the asparagus pieces are starting to char but are still crisp. Remove from the pan. 3 Place the pan back on the heat and add the frozen edamame together with a splash of water and a pinch of

sea salt. Cook for 2–3 minutes, until the beans are soft yet still have bite. Drain and add to the asparagus. 4 In the same pan, over medium– high heat add the gnocchi to a drizzle of hot oil. Fry until the gnocchi are golden and crispy. Remove them and allow everything to cool slightly. 5 Combine the gnocchi with the asparagus, edamame and chives. Squeeze over the lemon juice, drizzle over some olive oil, and season with a big pinch of sea salt and lots of black pepper. To serve, place the salad on a serving plate and scatter over the shaved Parmesan. f

PAIR THIS

Cavit Pinot Grigio 2018

The elegance of this light-bodied white with citrus flavours marries with the pillow-y gnocchi and the green vegetables in this dish. LCBO #99218

Photography: Luisa Brimble

Josiah Citron’s

J1 SKIRT STEAK

Like ketchup, steak sauce has a bad rep for bottled sameness. This homemade version ups the originality. INGRE DIE NTS Skirt Steak ◆◆ 2 lbs skirt steak, halved

crosswise

◆◆ 1½ cups J1 Steak Sauce ◆◆ 2 tsp fine sea salt

◆◆ Vegetable oil, for greasing

the grill ◆◆ Fleur de sel ◆◆ Black pepper

J1 Steak Sauce ◆◆ 1 cup ketchup

◆◆ ½ cup Dijon mustard

◆◆ ½ cup yellow mustard ◆◆ ½ cup golden raisins

◆◆ ¼ cup balsamic vinegar

◆◆ ¼ cup apple cider vinegar ◆◆ ½ cup freshly squeezed

orange juice

◆◆ 1 cup Worcestershire sauce ◆◆ ½ cup dark brown sugar

◆◆ 5 white button mushrooms,

wiped of grit and sliced

◆◆ 4 anchovy fillets, packed in oil

and drained

CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EC) REGULATIONS NO. 1308/13

◆◆ 3 garlic cloves, smashed after

removing the germ

◆◆ 2 shallots, sliced

◆◆ ¼ cup fresh tarragon leaves ◆◆ 1 Tbsp celery seeds ◆◆ 1 Tbsp fine sea salt

◆◆ 1 tsp black pepper

◆◆ ½ tsp ground cloves

◆◆ ½ tsp ground cinnamon ◆◆ ½ tsp cayenne

J1 Steak Sauce Method

1 Heat a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Place the ketchup, ½ cup of cold water, the mustards, raisins, vinegars, orange juice, Worcestershire and brown sugar into “Choose Cavit, drink responsibly.”

the heated saucepan. 2 Stir with a wooden spoon to combine. Add the mushrooms, anchovies, garlic, shallots, tarragon, celery seeds, salt, black pepper, cloves, cinnamon and cayenne. Mix well to incorporate thoroughly. Bring the sauce to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Gently simmer, uncovered and stirring occasionally to dissolve the brown sugar, until the steak sauce is reduced and slightly thickened, roughly 20 to 25 minutes. 3 Working in batches if necessary, ladle the sauce into a blender, preferably a Vitamix, filling it no more than halfway. Puree on low speed for a few seconds, then increase to medium speed until the sauce is completely smooth. Be sure to hold down the lid with a kitchen towel for safety. Pour the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl, pushing down on the solids with the back of a wooden spoon. Discard the solid pieces. Repeat with the remaining sauce until completely blended and strained.

Skirt Steak Method

4 Lay the skirt steak flat in a large baking dish and pour 1 cup of the J1 Steak Sauce evenly on top. Spread the sauce out to cover the surface, and then turn the meat over to coat both sides evenly. Set aside in the refrigerator to marinate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight, so the flavours can sink in a bit. Take the meat out of the refrigerator about 30 minutes before grilling so that it warms up to room temperature. 5 Preheat a charcoal or gas grill to high heat (500 F).

6 Take a few paper towels and fold them several times to make a thick square. Blot a small amount of vegetable oil on the paper towel, then carefully and quickly wipe the hot grates of the grill. This will create a nonstick grilling surface. 7 Lightly season the meat on both sides with sea salt. Lay the steak on the grill and cook, turning with tongs every 30 seconds to sear well on both sides; this takes 5 to 7 minutes for medium-rare. An instant-read

thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the steak should read 128 F when it is ready. 8 Transfer the steak to a wire rack and let rest for 5 minutes to allow the juices to recirculate. Transfer to a cutting board, cut the steak into thirds, and then slice thinly against the grain into ¼-inch-thick slices. Arrange the steak on a serving platter. Season with fleur de sel and six turns of a peppermill. Serve with the remaining ½ cup sauce on the side. f

Photography: Stan Lee

PAIR THIS

Roscato Dark Blend, Vd'Italia

A blend of northern Italian grapes makes for a bold and complex sipper that should set you in the mood for sunsets as you dig into charcoalkissed steak. LCBO #629857

CAVIT. LOVE IT. SHARE IT.

“Choose Cavit, drink responsibly.”

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Josiah Citron’s

SMOKED STRAWBERRIES If bacon can be sweet, why can’t dessert be smoked? Subtly amp up your strawberries.

PAIR THIS

Cavit Moscato 2018 A pronounced bouquet of stone fruit and orange rind pairs well with the smoke-tinged strawberries and basil leaves in this dessert. LCBO #277210

Method

1 Place 2 pints of the quartered strawberries into a grill basket. Preheat the grill to 250 F and distribute the wood chunks or chips around the coals and close the lid. Adjust the vents to maintain 250 F. 2 Put the grill basket of strawberries on the grate and close the lid. Smoke for 30 minutes until they shrivel slightly and take on a smoky aroma. 3 Bring a saucepan of water to a simmer over medium-low heat. Put the smoked strawberries, ¼ cup cold water, the orange juice, sugar, maple syrup and 3 basil leaves in a metal or glass, heat-resistant bowl and set over the simmering water, without letting the bottom touch the water. Mix gently with a spoon, taking care not to smash the strawberries. Gently cook for 30 minutes to extract the natural juices. 4 Place the remaining pint of quartered strawberries in a medium mixing bowl. Strain the smoked strawberry liquid into the bowl and discard the pieces of smoked strawberries. Hand tear the remaining basil leaves and add to the strawberries; toss to combine. Refrigerate for at least for 15 minutes or until ready to serve. 5 To serve, spoon the macerated strawberries, including the liquid, into dessert bowls or martini glasses. Add a scoop of vanilla ice cream and sprinkle granola on top. f

ING R E DIE NTS Special Equipment ◆◆ 3 applewood or maplewood

chunks or 3 large handfuls (about 1½ cups) chips, plus a vegetable grill basket

Smoked Strawberries ◆◆ 3 pints fresh strawberries,

stemmed and tops trimmed

◆◆ Juice of 1 orange (about ¼

◆◆ 2 Tbsp maple syrup

◆◆ 6 large fresh basil leaves ◆◆ Vanilla ice cream, for serving ◆◆ ¼ cup store-bought granola

Photography: Stan Lee

cup)

◆◆ 2 Tbsp sugar

YOU CAN'T MAKE A SHOE TASTE LIKE PRIME RIB

KNOW SMOKING Cherry Street Bar-B-Que's Lawrence La Pianta gives us the low-down on all things barbecue. Charcoal vs Wood Wood all the way. In my opinion, wood is so important to outdoor cooking. Years ago, back in 2005 when I was getting into barbecue, there were few places doing any kind of smoked meat in Toronto. When I spent some time in Texas, I would see everyone cooking meat with wood. It just imparts a wonderful flavour, and is more balanced. In Toronto, now you see many chefs moving to wood, like Kojin and Quetzal. Real barbecue is best done over wood.

number of reasons, I think it’s mainly due to the simplicity of how it’s seasoned – just salt and pepper. But there are people that love to sauce their smoked meats, and that’s fine too. Toronto is still very young and new to barbecue, I think we should allow pit masters and amateur cooks the opportunity to discover and show what they love. You can cook on oak, or cook on hickory, or perfect the sauces and rubs you want. It’s all welcome in my opinion. There is no superior style of barbecue, just personal taste.

On barbecue’s regional styles

Toronto’s barbecue scene

There’s a rule in this industry: no matter how much you love one style of barbecue, you don’t bash other styles. Central Texas barbecue has been hot for a few years for a

We have a real problem in Toronto in that we don’t support our own enough. It really bugs me. We need to take pride in our food culture here. Barbecue is not a part of Toronto’s

identity but in the last few years we’ve seen a lot of young chefs try to open smoke houses. I personally think this is a great thing. Torontonians spend a lot of time knocking people down instead of elevating them. When you visit cities like Nashville, there are barbecue restaurants across the road from each other and chefs will send customers to other barbecue restaurants. “You like my food? Well, hey, you should go check out what so-and-so is doing with ribs over there.” In Toronto, we have three guys that cook on wood right now; Adamson’s, Beach Hill and me. We are producing similar styles of barbecue, but we all do something different when it comes to sides. We’re unique, we support each other wholeheartedly. We need more of this.

Becoming an expert grill master Barbecuing is an art form that you learn over time. Every time you cook, you become better. Always start with the best product; even the best grillers can’t make a shoe taste like prime rib. Take your time and don’t rush. If you’re cooking on any sort of outdoor grilling appliance, don’t leave it alone. It only takes a minute to go from delicious to disappointing. Practice makes perfect, the more you cook the better it will be.

On barbecue competitions Cooking at competitions is a very different experience than running your own barbecue restaurant. I have competed in my share of them all over the U.S., and I’ve also judged a few. They tend to be marketing vehicles for brands and chefs. It’s a chance to sell a sauce or rub more than showcasing a style of barbecue. I know third and fourth-generation pit masters who never compete. For them, it’s about consistency and putting out an amazing product every day – every plate of food is a story of family legacy and history. f

— PART 2 —

FEAST “DOOHER IS MODEST ABOUT HER IMPACT, BUT HER PROTEGES TELL A DIFFERENT STORY.” THREE WISER WOMEN, 046

034 SUMMER OF SIXTY DINE | 040 DINE IN DASHING DENS 046 THREE WISER WOMEN | 052 YEAST IN THE EAST | 061 COCKTAIL HOUR

SUMMER OF SIXTY DINE The Foodism team shares our favourite summer-in-the-city experiences to help you plan your own warm-weather adventures. ILLUSTRATIONS BY MARIAH LLANES

ITH THE ADVENT of summer comes even more opportunities for eating in our fine city. You don’t need us to tell you that Toronto is completely reinvented in the warmer months, honing its moves like it’s newly single and ready to mingle – but its gastronomic game face takes things up a notch, too. From themed food festivals and pool parties in the Six to rollercoaster road trips and wine wandering out in the sticks, there’s enough food to fuel you into fall. Forget beach bodies this season and bring your stretchy pants. FOOD FESTIVAL FAN Krista Faist, CEO & Publisher

We live and breathe food here at Foodism, so when summer rolls around and we get to enjoy it while soaking up some Vitamin D, it’s an ideal combo. Nowadays, there seems to be a new festival every weekend so it can be overwhelming trying to decide where to spend your time (and cash). My advice: stick to the basics. Wine and Spirit Festival, Taste of the Danforth and Ribfest have all been operating for at least a decade, seeming to only get better with age. No gimmicks, just good food and drink. Case in point: I attended Wine and Spirit Festival on one of the rainiest days of summer 2018 and it still turned out to be one of my favourite experiences of the season. And we can’t forget the original summer food fest: the CNE. Sensory overload and Instagrammable desserts aside, there’s a reason it’s been going for nearly 150 years. I reckon there’s a direct nostalgic link, but the →

FORGET BEACH BODIES AND BRING YOUR STRETCHY PANTS 35

→ bright lights and sugar-induced coma always signals the end of the summer and that fall (my favourite season) is around the corner. MOTORWAY MAVEN Katie Bridges, Staff Writer

Though it seems counterintuitive to leave Toronto just as the sunshine arrives, a roadtrip is the perfect antidote when things get too sticky in the city. I try to keep at least one long weekend free to explore wine country. While we’re spoilt for choice in Ontario, pretty Prince Edward County wins every time for the laid-back rustic barn settings at spots like Hinterland Wine Company and Trail Estate Winery. If, like me, you prefer being chauffeured to taking the wheel, book an overnight stay in charming Bloomfield – with top-notch dining

like Seedlings and Flame + Smith just a short stroll away, you can ensure that designated drivers get a chance to sip on great wine, too. Or, if your vino voyages are already well trodden, consider cruising for cheese this summer. Oxford County, less than two hours east of Toronto, is home to local producers like Gunn’s Hill and Mountain Oak Cheese, plus some great restaurants along the trail. BASKET BANDIT April Tran, Senior Designer

As soon as the warm weather hits, swarms of people emerge from hibernation and find their way to the nearest patio like clockwork. It feels as though we spend the winter months being crammed like sardines on the TTC only to be crammed like sardines on any given patio.

Those who frequently straddle the fine line between hangry and very hangry (like me) understand the pain of waiting in lines – so close to food but so very, very far away. Spare yourself (and the general public) from your sour ’tude and enjoy a picnic instead. Trinity Bellwoods is a crowd favourite but I suggest you head over to the east end for some alternative picnic spots. Riverdale Park East has one of the best views of the city and plenty of blanket space on the hill. It’s a short walk from East Chinatown so I recommend picking up banh mi and salad rolls from Rose’s Vietnamese Sandwiches. Don’t forget a Boozy Egg Tart cone from Wong’s Ice Cream. For a more unconventional, Bear Gryllsesque experience, bike to Leslie Street Spit. Before making your way to Vicki Keith Point, a great city skyline vantage point, make a stop at Cherry St. Bar-B-Que and order a few pulled pork sandwiches.

RIVERDALE PARK HAS THE BEST VIEW OF THE CITY AND PLENTY OF BLANKET ROOM has done a remarkable job of focusing on Ontario craft beer. They carry a wide variety of breweries and the whole park is licensed. Muskoka Brewery hosts their own concession, next to the Lumberjack ride, with burgers and choices from their lineup like Detour and Ebb & Flow. On the weekend of July 18 - 21, 70+ craft beers (plus ciders) get their own event as part of the Brew & BBQ fest. And to celebrate the launch of their newest coaster, Yukon Striker (with a 245-foot vertical drop), Wonderland had Great Lakes brew a pilsner. That beer, plus Leviathan lager, are only available at the park.

PRODUCE PINCHER Suresh Doss, Editor-at-Large

As city dwellers, we’re lucky to be surrounded by farmers’ markets every day of the week during the warm-weather months. Visiting a farmers’ market is the best way to positively impact our local economy while enjoying peak freshness. Notable options include Mondays at Sorauren Park and Trinity Bellwoods on Tuesdays. Both bring in several vendors from nearby farming regions. During weekends, farmers’ markets in Toronto become social hubs – stop by to support local farmers and pick up produce and finish off the experience with breakfast or lunch. One of the city’s busiest farmers’ markets is the Evergreen Brick Works Saturday market, which hosts vendors from

across the province for a full-day celebration of Ontario’s impressive bounty. Here, you can buy heirloom tomatoes from Prince Edward County, peaches from Niagara or melons from southwestern Ontario. If you’re in the mood for dumplings to go with your green groceries, across the city, you’ll find great food offerings at the Leslieville Farmers’ Market, a garden market that has become known for hosting local food pop-ups with international menus. CRAFT COASTER David Ort, Copy Editor

Beer and roller coasters? Seems dicey until you consider how many rides have an aviation theme and that no one soberly boarded a plane before 1992. Kidding aside, Canada’s Wonderland

KEENER OF KENSINGTON Jessica Huras, Contributing Editor

There’s something so infectiously fun about Pedestrian Sundays in Kensington Market that I become downright tolerant of the slowmoving, spatially unaware throngs of people that normally make me hate large public gatherings (see Foodist on pg. 10). The market always promises a good time, but Pedestrian Sundays showcase the neighbourhood at its artsy, free-spirited best. They’re when Kensington reminds me why it was one of my favourite parts of the city when I first moved here. It’s a prime time to return to some favourite food spots I never manage to visit often enough, like Rasta Pasta, Seven Lives and Millie Crêperie, as well as check out what’s new this year – all while soaking up →

→ the energy of the buskers, browsers and dancers and enjoying the general celebration of summer and one of Toronto’s most eclectic neighbourhoods. POOL PARTIER Taylor Newlands, Editorial Assistant

Nothing says summer like being able to sit half-submerged in cold water and feel completely comfortable. I would say that I love to swim, but if we’re being honest with each other, my leisurely water frolic is more akin to a pig rolling in mud than the graceful sport of swimming. I always kick off the summer at Cabana Pool Bar’s Pride party. With colourful pool floaties, bumping DJ beats and views of Lake Ontario, it feels more like a tropical resort during spring break. Oliver & Bonacini is behind the food here, so be sure to take a lunch break in one of the cushy cabanas. Across town, the beach-and-pool combo

makes Sunnyside one of my favourite places to hang out on hot days. Sunbathe on the sand, take a dip in the pool, then dine on the beachfront patio at Sunnyside Pavilion Café. For a more refined pool experience, hit the plant-lined rooftop at Lavelle on King West. After a Gram-worthy photoshoot in the swanky space, enjoy the seafood-forward, Asian-inspired menu. SCREEN SNACKER Claire Plant, Editorial Intern

Is there anything better than watching your favourite movie under the stars? Personally, I can’t think of anything I’d rather be doing on a warm summer night than cuddling up in a blanket, eating popcorn and catching a flick outside. At an outdoor screening, you get to be part of a collective experience in a way that just isn’t possible if you’re watching by yourself at home. In Toronto, there is always a unique selection

SUNBATHE, TAKE A DIP IN THE POOL, THEN DINE ON THE BEACH PATIO of outdoor screenings to choose from – you can see an outdoor movie by the lake at Harbourfront Centre, in a park at Christie Pits or even while on a boat in Toronto Harbour. Bring your own snacks or grab some local takeout and have a picnic. If you’re going to Christie Pits, pick up from Apiecalypse Now!, the Manna or Little Sito. Also, don’t forget to BYOB – bring your own blanket! f

FrosĂŠ

Back by popular demand, your favourite summer cocktail. rosĂŠ wine, strawberries, elderflower, smirnoff vodka and lemon.

DINE IN DASHING DENS

Taylor Newlands profiles five restaurants where the decor is as noteworthy as the food. 40

ROM ELABORATE CONCEPTS like Storm Crow Manor, where each room is decked out in nerdy paraphernalia, to secret speakeasy bars complete with hidden doorways (we could name a few but where’s the fun in that?), there’s been waves of design-forward destinations hitting the Toronto dining scene. Even the latest “dive bars” sport elaborate photo walls and props or coy neon signs begging to be Instagrammed. Whether driven by a mature dining crowd who has outgrown the bare bones bars of the past, or the result of our generation’s social-media-focused narcissism, the uptick in thoughtfully conceptualized hangouts has created yet another reason to drink and dine across the city. Here are our favourite bars and restaurants to feast your eyes on. f

BAR RAVAL

Famous for its low-proof cocktails, top-notch Spanish tapas and incredible woodwork, Bar Raval has made it onto many a list of best bars – in Toronto, in Canada and the world over. One of Grant van Gameren’s many ventures, this Little Italy bar has an interior that’s a bit like an elevated take on a hobbit house. Reminiscent of the twisting shapes in Gaudi’s architectural works, Bar Raval’s serpentine carvings stretch across 75 different wood panels, all connected for the appearance of one seamless creation. Designed by Partisans, the curves of mahogany are meant to represent muscular, tattooed arms embracing guests.

Photography: Jonathan Friedman Photography / Partisans

SOFIA

Set amongst the luxurious boutiques and swish restaurants of Yorkville, Sofia is part up-scale Italian restaurant, part thoughtfully curated art gallery. The rotating selection of paintings ranges from up-and-coming local artists to worldrenowned names like Banksy and Warhol â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re all for sale. Imagined as a residence, complete with a lush terrace, the restaurant is divided into different areas where deep blue, bold red and stark white contrast to create the feeling of a contemporary home. Studio Munge, the award-winning design firm for hotels, restaurants and homes around the world, was behind the Sofia concept.

ALOETTE

Set on the first floor, below upscale sister restaurant Alo, the design choices at Aloette were partially led by the constraints of the space. Going for a layout that would maximize the number of guests, the resulting restaurant arrangement looked like a diner. Running with this aesthetic, the menu was inspired by the diner feel, combined with quality ingredients and high-end items. The long, narrow space, which features tubular panelling that extends down the length of the ceiling, is meant to feel dynamic and transporting. Commute Design Studio is behind the décor, which mimics the feeling of a train’s dining car – located on Spadina, streetcars run parallel to Aloette at all times of day.

Photography: ###

MAHJONG BAR

You could easily pass this Dundas and Ossington bar without realizing what lurks behind the unassuming faรงade. A dimly lit, glowing pink bodega sports a shelf of snacks and a few seats, but venture further in and a keyhole-shaped entranceway will transport you to another world. Inspired by 1960s Hong Kong, every aspect of Mahjong Bar plays a role in shaping the experience, from the menu of Asian share plates to the layout, lighting and art (a 36-foot-long mural by Gabriella Lo dominates one wall). Thoughtfully designed in collaboration with Grey North Design, the idea was to reference the hidden and unexpected bars that the owners discovered on their travels in cities like Paris.

CAFÉ CANCAN

Photography: Sandro Pehar; Nikki Leigh McKean

After working together on Piano Piano, chef-owner Victor Barry gave famed designer Tiffany Pratt free reign with his next venture, Café Cancan. In the 400-square foot space that once housed the Harbord Room, the duo set out to create a French bistro that would do the former local hangout justice. With Barry’s complete trust, Pratt was able to let her imagination run wild. Known as the “Queen of Colour”, the spunky designer transformed the airy bistro with punchy pink, delicate teal and cheerful mustard yellow. The bustling brunch hot spot oozes Pratt’s standout style and charm.

THREE WISER WOMEN

Katie Bridges talks to three iconic, female chefs who have spent decades blazing a trail through the male-dominated world of Toronto kitchens. PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTIE VUONG

ONS AGO, BEFORE we had a favourite chef, a favourite restaurant or even a favourite cuisine, our earliest food memories were probably delivered to us by the females in our lives. From mom’s school lunches to seconds and thirds foisted on us at Grandma’s house, household meals were dominated by women. Fast-forward to today and females in professional kitchens are still, bizarrely, the exception and not the rule. Statistics Canada reports that although 60 per cent of kitchen staff are male, 70 per cent of the lower paying jobs in the industry are held by women. While those far-apart numbers may seem disappointing in 2019, Toronto’s OG female chefs remind us that we’ve come a very, very long way in the past few years. →

Photography: ###

LEFT: Chef Donna Dooher named restaurant after Mildred Pierce, a fictional chef and single mother who opens a restaurant to support her family

→ “A lot of places told me: ‘We don’t hire women to work in our kitchens,’ ” says Donna Dooher, chef and owner of Liberty Village brunch favourite, Mildred’s Temple Kitchen, which celebrates its 30th birthday this year. “They were perfectly polite about it, but it was just their policy.” Though finding work in Ottawa had been “like shooting fish in a barrel,” Dooher struggled to find gainful employment in kitchens when she and her husband moved to Toronto in the mid-1980s. That was despite already having a chef de cuisine position at the Ritz on her resume. “Back then, going into food service was not a noble career – and certainly there wasn’t the rock star status that’s [now] attached to becoming a chef,” says Dooher. Like all good entrepreneurs, she realized that if she wanted something done a certain

way, she would have to do it herself. “I thought, okay, let’s take the bull by the horns,” says Dooher. “Open your own damn restaurant.” She did exactly that in 1989, opening Mildred Pierce on Sudbury Street and bringing blueberry buttermilk pancakes forever into the lives of Torontonians. Even a move to the as-yet-unpopulated Liberty Village in the late 2000s couldn’t dampen the city’s appetite for brunch, with its legions of fans still making weekend reservations hard to come by all these years later. Over on Adelaide, I watch another veteran at work. Though it seems completely inconceivable to imagine Alida Solomon in any other setting – prepping in her kitchen at Tutti Matti, the Tuscan restaurant she has owned for the last 17 years – that didn’t stop her parents from trying.

“THEY SAID ‘WE DON’T HIRE WOMEN TO WORK IN OUR KITCHENS’” “My father is a lawyer and my mother is a teacher, so they were very serious about education,” she explains. So serious that despite culinary aspirations dating back to age 16, Solomon would briefly study history and geography at university before trading in her books for pots and pans. Hoping to visit her cousins, and instead winding up cooking for the Israeli military on a kibbutz at the behest of her mother, Solomon had her a-ha moment. “I fell in love with the culture of the kitchen,” says Solomon. “All of a sudden you become part of a family and I loved cooking for people and breaking bread with them. It’s really the most important thing.” But it wasn’t until her years spent in Tuscany, when she went from cooking breakfast for 400 to creating exquisite meals at Osteria di Porta al Cassero in the hilltown of Montalcino, that she would find her niche. In Tuscany, she would acquire many skills – like how to single-handedly butcher a whole wild boar – while also learning about the never-in-the-spotlight role of women that pervades through Italian kitchens. “In Italy, there are no female pizzaiolas,” she says. “Men stretch the dough and women man the ovens: there’s a very definite role.” The inequality struck such a chord with Solomon that she decided to make a documentary on the subject. “I wanted to talk about all the amazing things about being a female chef or a female winemaker, and Italy is the place to do it because it’s the motherland,” she says. “You never go home at night and find a man making dinner for his family. It’s always a woman. Why is that acceptable [at home] and

LEFT: Tutti Matti has been going strong for nearly two decades thanks to Alida Solomon. RIGHT: Chef Solomon chose to focus on Tuscan cuisine

not acceptable in restaurants?” Food activist Joshna Maharaj is one chef who quickly recognized that the maledominated kitchens of Toronto were not the place for her. After a career epiphany in an ashram in remote India, she applied

I WAS DRAWN TO KITCHENS BECAUSE OF THE GENEROSITY

to culinary school over a spotty internet connection – only to get a rude awakening when she returned home. “The real reason I was drawn to kitchens was because of the spiritual connection to people and its generosity” she says. “I thought to myself, I just want to cook food and if I have to deal with this nonsense every day, I am going to hate it.” This ‘nonsense’ started way back in cooking school, where she recalls her work being critiqued by not only instructors but also her male classmates. “Clearly,” she says, “the implication was ‘how will my delicate little female head be able to manage all of the different cook times for the different types of meat?’” While teaching at Dish Cooking Studio, Maharaj was presented with a golden opportunity to transition into work at the Stop Community Food Centre, where she would create meals out of donations before

carving out a space for herself by flipping the script on institutional food systems at Sick Kids and Ryerson University. Maharaj feels lucky she left the frontline when she did. But what are the alternatives for women who won’t stand the heat but refuse to get out of the kitchen? “In Toronto, I always had to fight for my position, so I had to make myself verbally present because I couldn’t physically,” says Solomon. “I had to always open my mouth and out came this truck driver.” All three women confess to swearing like a sailor when necessary – just one of the many ways they’ve had to assimilate in order to keep up with their male compatriots. While working at the ROM, Maharaj remembers being forced to take a hard-ass attitude to keep her mostly male staff in line. “I insisted that my leadership was not, and should not, be all Gordon Ramsay,” she says. “But then they pushed me.” →

Behind every great egg recipe...

→ So what did she do? “On my day off I made everybody go to the line and I yelled and I swore and I threatened everybody’s job. They all fell in line and I was simultaneously relieved and disgusted that it had come to that,” she says.

www.getcracking.ca

I YELLED AND I SWORE AND I THREATENED THEIR JOBS 50

In a landscape where the ‘bad boys’ of food are constantly championed, it’s no wonder nurturing females at the helm seem like a pair of slippers and a cup of cocoa by contrast. From heroes like Anthony Bourdain to enfant terrible Marco Pierre White – a man so rock ’n’ roll, he famously rescinded his three Michelin stars – we tend to like our chefs more Rolling Stones than rolling pins. Women are routinely reported as matronly, apron-wearing cooks who keep the home fires burning, while men are tortured artists, throwing whisks at anyone who fails to understand their vision. Maharaj believes that having one spot at the top and no room for anyone else is inherently masculine. “This is not about women not being good enough for the kitchen,” she says. “The issue is, where is the space for women in the kitchen?” Dooher agrees that this male-gazing view

LEFT: Chef Joshna Maharaj in her kitchen at home. Maharaj has carved out a niche for herself in community kitchens and food advocacy

Perhaps the thing that impresses me the most is the way these women raise each other up. When I mention the other chefs I’m speaking to for this feature, their faces immediately light up. Though Dooher is modest about her impact, her proteges tell a different story. Maharaj describes her as “a very dear mentor and wonderful anchor,” while Solomon simply calls her “a legend.” That commitment to mentorship will be so crucial in ensuring that the next generation of female chefs have similar role models to follow as their careers develop. When I ask Solomon about her style of cooking, I can’t help but notice the parallels between the role of females in the industry. “Some chefs take something fabulous and put it on a pedestal,” she says. “Other chefs take the ingredients and make something fabulous.” It’s obvious that Solomon falls firmly into the latter camp, and this practice of taking something and making it bigger than the sum of its parts seems to me a thoroughly feminine trait. Somehow, in 2019, cooking is still a feminist issue, but I hope that in 15 years’ time we’ll be talking about the best chefs – no female caveat – with the next generation of Donnas, Alidas and Joshnas filling out the list. f

of female accomplishment is at the heart of the problem. “We really put a lot of pressure on ourselves to succeed in what we perceive as success, and that’s doing what the boys do, how the boys do it,” says Dooher. While there are certainly no shortcuts to decades-long success, Solomon has a theory. “Donna and I both only have one restaurant, and we have had them for an eternity, because it’s not about ego.” We often measure our celebrity chefs’ success by the size of their empire, but we don’t give nearly enough credit to those who stayed the course. Solomon has made sacrifices for Tutti Matti that a man may not have had to make – but in return, Tutti Matti and the regulars she greets every Saturday night, are her family and her legacy. “I don’t want to be just a restaurant owner, I don’t want to be the creator of Toronto’s hottest five new restaurants, because it doesn’t matter to me – I just want to cook.”

The Mainville Family St. Isidore, ON

... is a grade ‘A’ EGG Farm family.

YEAST IN THE EAST

Neighbours – plus their dogs and kids – fill the brewery taprooms east of Yonge. David Ort plans a week of beer tours. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SANDRO PEHAR

LEFT: When Luc Lafontaine found the space, a former Bargain Haroldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, he knew he had the perfect home for Godspeed Brewery

LEFT: The spare glassware and wall of sleek taps fit nicely into the minimalist, focused style at Godspeed Brewery on the edge of Leslieville

Monday: Radical Road Brewing Whether easing into the work week or capping off a long weekend, a brewery that could double as a neighbourhood bar feels like the right choice. Their yuzu pale ale gets into tons of LCBO locations, so while you’re on site, broaden your horizons. For instance, lactose and double-dry-hopping play prominent roles in shaping Symmetrics, their new IPA. Generally, hop-forward options are good bets at Radical Road and that’s perfect for a oneand-done Monday evening. Or, if you’re coming in after your weekly softball game, look to their cucumber mint kölsch, another mainstay brew, for clean and crisp, hot-weather refreshment.

Tuesday: Godspeed Brewery

HERE WAS A time when Starfish, Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar and Gio Rana’s “the Nose” were the only reasons west-end Torontonians would admit to crossing Yonge Street to eat and drink. From cocktails in the 2000s to craft beer in the early 2010s, it seemed like Queen West, Ossington and the Junction were the only places we could have nice things. But then rents went up, we got tired of waiting in line to sit on a patio and – most importantly – the people who love making beer decided they could do it best in their own neighbourhoods, even east of Yonge. In 2016, the idea of creating a brewery district for Toronto was widely covered in the media. It fizzled, but east-end brewery owners noticed that the 13 breweries on the speculative list were all west of Bathurst. Susan Michalek, co-owner of Muddy York Brewery, remembers that someone concocted the idea of forming a collective because “everybody was feeling a lot of frustration that there was a ton of focus on west-end breweries.” That led to 10 east-side breweries signing on to the Toronto East Brewery Collective that kicked off last spring with the Brewed in

the East tap takeover at three bars. For 2019, they have gradually expanded their activity roster with another takeover and will band together to present a united front. You’ll see them at beer festivals ranging from the Brewer’s Backyard to the Toronto Festival of Beer in mid-summer. But the big news, says David Wallace, sales manager for Muddy York is that four different east-end breweries will be represented in the beer garden at every Toronto Wolfpack rugby game. “That puts us in Liberty Village in front of 10,000 rugby fans,” he says. “Some of these folks know our breweries, but many don’t.” “We’re underdogs,” Wallace says. “The east end in general has a ‘tourism’ problem in that people from the west end often feel like they don’t need to travel east.” It seems that their collaboration is fuelled by each having a different specialty – maybe it’s in a particular range of styles, a focus on hops, a prowess for barrel-aging their beer or by having a distinct vibe to their taproom. It would be difficult to get the full sense of that impressive range in one breweryhopping afternoon, so I’ve set out a schedule below. Think of this as your guide to a week of great beer in the many different neighbourhoods east of Yonge.

Godspeed was not the first modern brewery to open east of the Don but it certainly felt like a pioneering move, even in 2017. By his own admission, Luc “Bim” Lafontaine wanted to be open earlier – the space was his for two-and-a-half years before they sold their first beer – but also chose the east end because he saw an opportunity. Coming off a long run as the very wellknown head brewer of Montreal’s Dieu du Ciel! and a stint in Japan, he had an especially clear idea what size and shape he wanted his brewpub to take. Godspeed combines a menu of homestyle Japanese favourites like braised beef stew with tendon and atsuage tofu with black sesame with their thoughtful beer. Their beer wants the quiet contemplation you can only find on slower weekday

EVERYBODY FELT FRUSTRATED ABOUT THE WEST-END BEER FOCUS

afternoons at such a popular operation. For example, the gose has Shikuwasa citrus and sea salt or the saison brings yuzu into play. Lafontaine says a recent trip to the Czech Republic inspired his intriguing foray into unfiltered versions of Czech-style lagers. And, of course, Godspeed’s dortmunder lager fills out the sessionable end of their lineup.

kettle sour concept (beers made by adding lactobacillus for a short, quick fermentation that produces a clean tartness) with their Kennel Sour series. Each iteration adds a different fruit to the mix – blackberries and raspberries have been recent guest stars.

Wednesday: Black Lab Brewing

Especially before craft beer became a trend, if you asked someone to close their eyes and describe a brewery, they’d probably mention a monolithic factory with smokestacks and a constant stream of delivery trucks. Fitting, then, that one of the east side’s most popular breweries is built into an old three-storey house on a corner lot where Leslieville starts to become the Beaches. Rorschach has converted the former residence into several spaces including a front patio (dogs welcome here) and a taproom with picnic tables tucked amongst the tanks. Best of all, their rooftop patio is a tree-lined oasis that feels comfortably separate from the busy city. Beers from them like Synchronicity, Truth Serum and Hedonism – featuring fruit notes, either from hops or actual mango,

After visiting a couple breweries in Toronto, you may have noticed something that feels crazy. Dogs hanging out. Inside! The usual rule is that pets and a licensed restaurant can’t mix. So, if a brewery opts for no kitchen, canines might be welcome. Weekday evenings are an opportune time to find the taproom with a few friendly pooches. And that’s not accidental. The founders of the Eastern Avenue brewery made their logo an homage to their labrador mix, Snoopy, and set out to welcome fourlegged family members. Taproom manager Jeff Kelly says that a regular schedule of new beer releases attracts those in the crowd who would rather drink from glasses than bowls. They also take a punny swipe at the

Thursday: Rorschach Brewing Co.

THEY WELCOMED FOURLEGGED FAMILY MEMBERS passionfruit and the like – get plenty of welldeserved acclaim. There’s just as much gold in their lagers and saisons that don’t feature fruit and hops as prominently. Especially with their varied menu that nods toward pub favourites, this is an ideal place to ease into a summer weekend.

Friday: Eastbound Brewery The end of the workweek brings a highlight from the event calendar at this brewery at Queen East and Broadview. The Soul Proprietor (a.k.a. Eon Sinclair, bassist from →

ABOVE: Dogs are part of the family-friendly atmosphere in the taproom at Black Lab. Beer choices include a few fruit sours

→ Bedouin Soundclash) has a regular gig mixing beats from a variety of harmonious musical times and places. Fittingly, Dave Lee’s beers range widely and complement the funk nicely. You’ve tried Basecamp saison and their Let’s Go Exploring IPA already? Great. Now, branch out with experimental offerings like Nerve Tonic (a saison with juniper berries). They also cover popular, but surprisingly underbrewed styles with beers like the Full Dunkel Jacket dunkelweizen and built-for-summer Hidden Lake hefeweizen. Tara Lee leads the kitchen team at Eastbound to places well beyond the typical “elevated pub classics”. Think plates like chicken-fried shrimp and grilled octopus or sandwiches such as pork belly muffaletta and Buffalo chicken.

Saturday: Left Field Brewery Mark and Mandie Murphy, the founders of Left Field Brewery, got their first clear message of how popular they would be with their Greenwood and Gerrard community when they held a Welcome-to-theNeighbourhood party over five years ago. Over a thousand people showed up to what was an empty warehouse to celebrate that they were going to get a brewery within

THEY’RE SEEKING OUT THE BETTER THINGS THAT SPEAK TO THEM walking distance. And dozens of them brought their strollers. Mark Murphy remembers how this family friendliness evolved: “there used to be this group on Facebook called ‘Left Field with Babies.’ We didn’t create it. They coordinated it and came on Thursdays at 1 p.m.” With a steady schedule of food popups all weekend, Left Field is one of the friendliest places to drink in the east end. That goes doubly if there happens to be a Jays game on. Best of all, their excellent beer is way better than what you’ll find on tap at the Rogers Centre. Murphy’s brewing team divides its time between IPAs (Greenwood

and Laser Show), smoothie IPAs (WHIP), fruit sours (Squeeze Play) and a few standards (Eephus brown ale and Sunlight Park saison).

Sunday afternoon: Muddy York New beer releases hit the taproom and fridge at Muddy York on Friday. Saturday is usually when you should plan to visit for food popups. But Sundays the brewery stands out. Of the pop-ups, Michalek says, “Island Oysters is the most popular and it’s bananas.” The Sunday specialties that draw crowds (and maybe the occasional curious eyebrow from those used to drinking in sports bars) are ones designed for kids. Muddy York has had Little Robot Friends in to help pint-sized guests tinker with electrical circuits, performers like Liam Kearney for entertainment and a popsiclemaking pop-up for a sweet distraction. To describe how Muddy York connects with customers, Susan Michalek says: “They like what they like; it doesn’t need to be the hippest thing out there. They’re just seeking out the better things that speak to them.” f

BELOW: Rorschach covers a broad beer range, they make impressive use of a former house and serve pub classics

Enjoy 25+ Artisinal Merchants Create with Cooking Classes Book your Private Event Indulge in a Supper Club shopFOOD DISTRICT.com

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PROMOTION

VIVE LA VODKA

Don't wait for a special occasion – you are the celebration. This summer, raise a glass with Grey Goose and check out our hosting guide for tips on how to live Victoriously.

HETHER IT’S A promotion, an anniversary or a vacation, we’re always saving our celebrations for a big event – but what if you were the special occasion? And what if you decided to celebrate you today? Grey Goose, like us, believes in living Victoriously – aka treating yourself in both the big and the small moments in life. It might be just a Tuesday, but with the right attitude, it’s a future memory that’s waiting to be made. Treat yourself and guests by transforming summer get togethers from ho-hum to fun with these hosting tips:

Pick a theme Whether you go full Canuck for Canada Day with a BBQ and plenty of plaid or throw a chic French Riviera party with stripes and nautical hues, having a cohesive concept will separate your party from any old gathering.

Stock the bar A well-stocked home bar will ensure

things run smoothly when you’re hosting. Stock up on ice, and slice lemons and limes ahead of time.

Signature cocktails While it’s tempting to make a few cocktails, we advise doubling down on one signature drink like the Rosemary Greyhound (pictured above).

Pairings Since Grey Goose is distilled in France, the gastronomic capital of the world, it’s a match made in heaven for delicious flavours. Class things up with caviar paired with salty dog cocktails (made with vodka and grapefruit juice), or keep it simple with warmed focaccia bread and vodka sodas. And that’s not the only way to have fun with Grey Goose this summer – for every bucket list activity, there’s a celebration with your name on it. Whether you're making batch bowls of punch at the cottage, heading on a

last minute road trip, patio drinking on Toronto Island, or enjoying Grey Goose cocktails beside Lavelle’s rooftop pool, there are plenty of ways to make the ordinary extraordinary this summer. ● For more refreshing summer drink ideas, head to greygoose.com

ROSEMARY GREYHOUND ◆◆ 1 part Grey Goose vodka

◆◆ 2 parts fresh squeezed pink

grapefruit juice

◆◆ Lime quarter and fleur de sel

Rim the outside edge of a rocks glass with a lime quarter and rub with a sprig of fresh rosemary. Rim the outside edge of the glass with fleur de sel. Add ingredients to glass and top with ice. Stir. Garnish with a sprig of rosemary and lime wedge.

see gin in a new light naturally unexpected

Please enjoy our products responsibly.

COCKTAIL HOUR Train travel has become more pleasant now that Union Station has restaurants with good cocktails. We share three from Amano Pasta. WORDS BY SURESH DOSS PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRENTON MOWORTH

PAVLOV’S DOG COCKTAIL INGREDIENTS ◆◆ 2 oz Ungava premium gin ◆◆ 1 oz salted rosemary syrup ◆◆ 3 oz grapefruit juice ◆◆ 1 oz lime juice

SIMPLE SY RUP

◆◆ 2 cups sugar ◆◆ 1 cup water

SALTED ROSEMARY SYRUP

◆◆ 2 cups of simple syrup

◆◆ 3 large sprigs of rosemary

For the simple syrup: Place ingredients in a pot over medium heat. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Bring to a boil. Remove from the heat. Let cool to room temperature. For the salted rosemary syrup: Place ingredients in a blender. Blend for 2 minutes. Pass through a fine strainer into a jar. Photography: ###

To assemble Pavlov’s Dog: Place all ingredients in a shaker. Shake! Strain into a collins glass with ice. Garnish with a sprig of rosemary.

I N PART N ERS HIP W IT H UN GAVA GIN Unique in colour and unmatched in flavour, Ungava is a premium Canadian gin made with 100 per cent natural ingredients. The only yellow gin on the market, Ungava gets its distinct, natural colour from six hand-foraged Arctic botanicals native to Ungava Bay in northern QuĂŠbec. Whether in a complicated concoction or a simple tipple, Ungava is a gin unlike any other.

THYME TRAVELLER COCKTAIL INGREDIENTS ◆◆ 2 oz thyme-infused Ungava gin ◆◆ 3/4 oz hibiscus pepper syrup ◆◆ 3/4 oz lemon juice ◆◆ 3/4 oz egg whites

SIMPLE SYRUP

◆◆ 2 cups sugar ◆◆ 1 cup water

HIBISCUS PEPPER SY RUP

◆◆ 1/2 litre simple syrup

◆◆ 2 Tbsp dried hibiscus flowers ◆◆ 1/2 tsp black pepper

THYME INFUSED UNGAVA

◆◆ 1 cup Ungava gin

◆◆ 3 large sprigs of thyme

For the Simple Syrup: Place ingredients in a pot over medium heat. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Bring to a boil. Take off heat. Let cool until room temperature.

FAST CASUAL ITALIAN restaurant, known for cookedfrom-scratch pasta, might not be the first place you’d expect to find an inventive cocktail list. But beating expectations is bartender Brandon Koykka’s mission at Amano Pasta in Union Station. In the popular station food concourse, Koykka is finding new ways to break up the ‘pasta and wine’ affair. “My goal, like the chefs here,” he says, “is to pull from the list of classic Italian ingredients, and find ways to use them in drinks.” Pull up a seat to Koykka’s cocktail show and expect to find interesting uses of Italian spirits and notably seasonal ingredients like truffles and soft herbs. “I find that with a pasta menu, the best way to pair drinks is to go lighter and brighter. Acid and crisp notes do wonders for plates of food at Amano.” At the recent Made with Love cocktail competition, Koykka discovered Ungava, the Canadian gin made with native Quebec herbs. “What really stood out for me was the flavour profile. It wasn’t heavy on juniper but had a real balance in [flavour and aroma] notes. It was delicate. I’ve been using it since to experiment with drinks,” he says. Koykka used Ungava to make these three summer-ready drinks, including a riff on the classic Italian negroni. f

For the hibiscus pepper syrup: Add ingredients to a blender. Blend for 3 minutes. Taste. Sometimes more flowers are needed, or if you’re looking for more of a kick add more peppercorn. Pass through a finemesh strainer into a jar. For the thyme-infused Ungava: Place ingredients in a blender. Blend for 3 minutes. Fine strain into a jar.

Photography: ###

To assemble Thyme Traveller: Place all ingredients in a shaker. Shake with 2 ice cubes for at least a minute. Strain into a coupe or martini glass. Place 3 dashes of bitter on top. Spray with a saline mix or a pinch of salt. Garnish with a hibiscus flower.

HANKY PANKY COCKTAIL IN G R ED IENTS ◆◆ 11/2 oz Ungava gin ◆◆ 11/2 oz sweet vermouth ◆◆ 1/2 oz Fernet-Branca

To assemble Hanky Panky: Place all ingredients in a mixing glass. Stir well until chilled. Strain into a rocks glass or a coupe. Garnish with a strip of orange zest.

Photography: ###

Unmatched flavour. Unexpected colour. Other gins pale in comparison. naturally unexpected

Please enjoy our products responsibly.

NOTHING CAMPARIS TO YOU With a closely guarded secret recipe passed down over 150 years, Campari is as intriguing as ever – and a fundamental element of the classic Negroni cocktail.

HINK OF ITALY and untold icons spring to mind – but from Pirelli and Ferrari all the way up to Versace and Armani, the common thread running through them is class. Campari, a 150-year-old Italian aperitivo, is no different. The base for

some of the most famous cocktails around the world has long been a symbol of style with its iconic deep red colour. But despite the inimitable spirit being one of the most recognizable in the drinks cabinet, the exact ingredients are a closely guarded secret. Since its inception in 1860, the recipe

has remained the same. While the taste profile is bittersweet with hints of orange, and distinct roots and herbal notes, exactly what goes into the classic cocktail is still shrouded in mystery – making it all the more alluring. The aperitivo originated in Northwest Italy when Gaspare Campari, a master

CONTEST

MY ONE AND NEGRONI Consisting of equal parts Campari, gin and sweet red vermouth, the Negroni was created in Florence between 1919 and 1920. Count Camillo Negroni, tired of the Americano aperitif, asked his bartender, Fosco Scarselli, to add a touch of gin in place of soda. Today, Negroni is part of the official cocktail list of the International Bartending Association and Negroni Week is an annual celebration (June 24 – June 30, 2019) which raises money for charities around the world.

drinks maker, began selling a top-secret bitters-style mixture of herbs, spices, barks and fruit peels across the country. In 1867, Gaspare headed to Milan to open ‘Caffé Campari,’ launching the aperitif trend that would become a staple of the city’s social scene. After mass Campari production began in the early 19th century, the spirit was cemented into the classic cocktail canon. The aperitivo can be enjoyed in a classic Campari and soda, or in vintage cocktails like the Sbagliato, Garibaldi and Boulevardier – but Negroni is the true embodiment of the herbaceous spirit. Though the gin and vermouth can be switched, there is no substitute for Campari; the red heart of the Negroni. The brand's history has garnered plenty of recognition. In the 1970s, Italian director Federico Fellini directed a short Campari film commercial. At the

start of the millennium, the Campari calendar launched, with actresses like Penelope Cruz and Uma Thurman gracing its pages. Then in 2010, to celebrate 150 years, Galleria Campari opened, unveiling art depicting the essence of the brand itself. Today, the bitter flavour may be a trend for mixologists and bartenders all over the world, but it's always been part of the Campari DNA. The Italian beverage has rightfully taken its place alongside classic cocktails like the Manhattan and the Old Fashioned – but in the age of information, there's something extra exciting about such a secretive spirit. Whether you're stirring up a Negroni, or creating your own cocktail, you never know where your next Campari adventure will take you. ● To learn more about Campari and how you can enjoy it, head to @CampariCanada

WIN TWO TICKETS TO THE NEGRONI WEEK OPENING PARTY

WIN

We're giving one lucky winner and a friend the chance to celebrate the centennial of this iconic drink at the Negroni Week opening party on June 24. Attendees at the glamorous event, held at Casa La Palma, will get to sample a delicious Italian menu, a special Campari Negroni birthday cake and, of course, plenty of Negronis. Guests are encouraged to dress to impress with a touch of red, the iconic Campari colour. For a full list of terms and conditions and to enter visit: foodism.to/ competition

CONTEST

RUM IN THE SUN

This August, celebrate National Rum Week by sipping on a tropical cocktail made with Flor de Caña, named the 2018 Best Rum Distillery in the world.

OUND IN CLASSIC cocktails like daiquiris and piña colodas (and even sipped since its rennaissance) rum has a whole week devoted to its honour. Running from August 15 to 21, National Rum Week is the perfect opportunity (or excuse) to mix up a tropical cocktail with Flor de Caña's award-winning rum, kick back and celebrate. This year, the fifth generation single-family estate rum producer was named the 2018 Best Rum Distillery in the world by the International Rum Conference. In addition to its stellar lineup of rums, Flor de Caña has also been recognized for their commitment to sustainability and fair trade – now that calls for celebration. Enriched by an active volcano and naturally-aged without added sugar, the flavours of Flor de Caña's smooth rums can be enjoyed in a number of ways – shake things up this National Rum Week with a glass or a cocktail. ●

WIN A SEAT AT AN EXCLUSIVE DINNER WITH FLOR DE CAÑA

For a full list of terms and conditions and to enter visit: foodism.to/competition

WIN

Photography: Kailee Mandel

Celebrate National Rum Week with a seat at our mixtronomy dinner on August 13 with Flor de Caña. At Sofia in Yorkville, guests will enjoy a unique menu of Italian-inspired dishes infused with Flor de Caña's range of delicious rums. Each course will be paired with a cocktail that accentuates the flavour notes in the rum – a perfect combination of gastronomy and mixology that will make for an unforgettable night.

— PART 3 —

EXCESS “KICK OFF A SUMMER NIGHT BY MIXING A SHOT OF YOUR FAVOURITE GIN INTO THIS CIDER. ” BOTTLE SERVICE, 082

HOLY MOLE!

Suresh Doss sits down with superstar chef Enrique Olvera in Mexico City to discuss his revamped restaurant and the art of making mole.

Photography: Maureen M. Evans

ABOVE LEFT: Enrique Olvera is the brightest star in Mexico’s culinary sky. ABOVE RIGHT: His redesigned restaurant, Pujol

“

MOLE IS CHAOS; it is a party in the mouth,” chef Enrique Olvera says, getting deep into a conversation about the dish that has characterized his 20-plus years of cooking in the U.S. and Mexico City. He’s effusing his love for Mexico’s national dish, a sauce the ancient Aztecs referred to as molli; a rich concoction made with a myriad of chilies, fruit and nuts. With most of the versions you’ll find in restaurants or food markets in Mexico City, mole is a dark sauce, which resembles something that may have been left on the stove for longer than intended. But in Mexico, it is transcendent, weaving through the county’s rich Aztec and colonial history and representing an heirloom banner throughout the country. “In Mexico, there are thousands of versions of mole, some that are vastly different from each other,” says Olvera. “It speaks to each cook’s personality. It is the sum of a lifetime, of multiple lifetimes.”

While Oaxaca and Puebla are two regions closely associated with Mexico’s national dish, Mexico City’s diverse culinary scene offers a wider lens to view mole’s current identity. Peruse menus at traditional and non-traditional restaurants and the word will pop up in variations. At one of the city’s

HE’S MADE MOLE THE STAR COURSE AT THE NEW PUJOL

most popular restaurants, Maximo Bistrot, grilled sea bass is presented with seared cabbage, on a bed of coconut mole. At Contramar, a hip lunch spot, whole chargrilled octopus arrives with a thick layer of red mole sauce that sings of earthiness and chocolate. Simpler versions of mole are also common, as a sauce to accompany boiled root vegetables, or a side dip for corn tortillas at a traditional taqueria. Mole is inescapable in Mexico City restaurants. “It is a dish that is uniquely tied to the regionality of Mexico. The ingredients change with seasons and regions,” Olvera says. He feels so close to the dish that he’s made it the star course in his redesigned flagship restaurant, Pujol, in Mexico City. The critically acclaimed restaurant relocated to the affluent Polanco neighbourhood in 2017. It took Olvera’s team two years to design the new restaurant. “I wanted the redesign to reflect my evolution as a cook,” Olvera says. When the Mexico City-born chef graduated

Photography: Maureen M. Evans; Jake Lindeman

from the Culinary Institute of America, he found himself working in French fine dining in Chicago. Olvera returned to Mexico City shortly after to open Pujol. At the time, his vision was to combine Mexican ingredients with French cooking and modern techniques. Over the last 19 years, Pujol has received global praise and Olvera’s vision for modern interpretations of Mexican street cooking earned him a coveted spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Since opening Pujol, Olvera has become a cookbook author and he’s starred in Netflix’s Chef’s Table. His business has grown to include spin-off restaurants in New York City, with two projects on the way in Los Angeles. Olvera embraces his position as Mexico City’s most celebrated chef. His current focus revolves around using regional, traditional Mexican ingredients through the lens of modern cooking techniques. As you tour through Mexico City’s broader food scene, change and breakneck progress are abundant and widespread. The city is a leader in today’s culinary zeitgeist, the hot spot for foodfocused travelers eager to discover Mexico’s cooking beyond menus of Tex-Mex and hipster tacos. At every turn there are signs of innovation – from third-wave coffee shops to modern seafood bistros and cocktail bars. Olvera’s Pujol sits at the centre of this culinary ride in Mexico City, the food that is served is one of dual identities; memories and traditions of the past are intertwined with a new sense of discovery. If Pujol’s first incarnation was traditional Mexican ingredients, seen through a haute perspective, the new Pujol is a deeper dive into Mexico’s regionality, inspired by Japanese minimalism. “I want guests to feel lighter and energized when they dine here. Similar to a Japanese omakase experience where you experience a multitude of flavours without the weight of each course.” All tasting menus begin with a course of “street snacks.” A hollowed gourd is presented at the table and when opened, smoke billows out and clears to reveal a pair of carefully peeled baby corn prepared to represent the elote style with cotija cheese and hot mayo. Here, the smoldering husks frame a thin layer of mayo coated with chicatana (flying ants), chilies and lime juice. Chicatana are hyper seasonal, a regional delicacy that arrive in Oaxaca every spring. Traditionally they are toasted over a flat griddle known as a comal. At Pujol, Olvera creams them to make a thick sauce that coats the corn. At the new Pujol, diners can opt for the

I WANT GUESTS TO FEEL LIGHTER AND ENERGIZED

taco tasting menu at the bar, or sit down in the dining room for a choice of two six-course menus: seafood or corn. For the majority of the half-dozen courses, you’ll be eating with your hands. “It’s part textural for me, the way the corn feels under your hand, or the pleasure of holding something we’ve created before you put it in your body,” Olvera says. Since the opening of Pujol, Mexico City has also seen a rising tortilla movement. “There is a new love for artisanal tortillas, we are moving away from pre-packaged versions,” he says. →

ABOVE: Pujol’s modern design was two years in the making

ABOUT 80 DIFFERENT INGREDIENTS GO INTO THE MOLE NUEVO EVERY DAY → A year ago, the chef dubbed as the “corn

Photography: Jake Lindeman; Maureen M. Evans

ABOVE: Chef prepares the low-key star course of the tasting menu

whisperer” opened Molina el Pujol, a tortilla shop in nearby Condesa. A small, seasonal menu awaits diners, but for Olvera it doubles as a production facility for his restaurant empire’s tortilla needs. And for mole. Each week, cooks at Molina el Pujol will craft a fresh batch of mole, using over 80 ingredients and a guiding theme of “whatever is in season.” The fresh batches are then taken to the restaurant where it is added to the mother sauce or “mole madre,” intensifying its flavour with every batch. The tasting menu experience at Pujol culminates with mole. Two pools of sauce arrive on a large plate, a thick, dark mole surrounding a bright, red mole in the plate’s centre. Of all the fine dining restaurants I’ve visited, the plating is the simplest – to the point where I’m verging on confusion and bemusement. For a moment, I stare at the concentric circles and wonder what to expect when I spoon the sauces into my mouth. Olvera views the two circles of sauce on a plate as his own dualism, a culinary journey from past to present. As the mole dish is presented, diners are advised of the current age of the mother sauce. When I visited, the mole madre was 1,872 days old. Like tending to an heirloom sourdough starter, the mole nuevo (made up of approximately 80 ingredients) is added daily. It is a complex sauce that hits the palate in waves, at first a flurry of dark chocolate notes and hints of mushroom and corn, followed in succession by tingles of pepper, spice and dark fruit. With each spoonful, the waves repeat in almost the exact same succession. “Mole: its history, its physical qualities, its chemical composition, its immense complexity become a perfect analogy of our land,” says Olvera. “Each ingredient is willing to give up itself to become much more than the sum of its parts.” f

— TOURISM KINGSTON —

EAT LIKE A KING IN THIS FOODIE CITY A FOODISM GUIDE

PROMOTION

FARM TO

F OR K

GOOD LUCK FARM

The farm-to-table movement might be trending right now, but relying on local farmers and embracing a fresh food philosophy is nothing new for Kingston's chefs.

HE FIRST WEEKEND getaway we’re pencilling into our calendars this summer is a waterfront city with world class dining tucked down its historic alleyways, and artisan food shops nestled inside its courtyards. Sounds exotic? It’s closer than you think. Kingston, less than three hours east of Toronto, is the ideal spot to do some exploring in the sunshine. Blessed with sweeping views of Lake Ontario, beautiful 19th century buildings (from which it gets its nickname “the Limestone City”) and one of the most exciting food and beverage scenes in Ontario right now, Kingston is more than just a pitstop on your way to Montreal.

Since great food is always on our bucketlist, Kingston fits the bill. Though its restaurants draw on cuisines and flavours from around the world, their menus are prepared using fresh, local produce. Tango Nuevo, a Spanish tapas spot, sources seasonal fruits and vegetables from local farmers and pairs their menu with a deep wine list that includes a selection of Ontario labels. Just down the road sits Chez Piggy, an abandoned limestone stable turned restaurant that’s been serving Kingston for 40 years. “The Pig” cooks with beef from nearby Enright Cattle Co., a common theme across Kingston. Restaurants like Bella’s Bistro

use produce from local organic farm, Patchwork Gardens, while Reinink Family Farms supplies Kingston's top eateries, like Le Chien Noir and Pan Chancho, with their cage-free eggs. Otter Creek Farms raise the highest quality Wagyu beef on their family farm in Kingston. Try it for yourself at Aquaterra, a waterfront spot that’s as loved by critics as locals. Don't miss their Ocean Wise approved daily fish feature, or road test new dishes on the Chef’s Test Kitchen Menu. With ample farm-to-table restaurants and a duty to supporting local, you can guarantee that your Kingston weekend was fresh made daily. ●

LO C A L

L I B AT I O N S

WISH YOU WERE BEER

Kingston is an incubator for the craft beer and wine scene with a ton of live music venues to pair it all with.

GREAT FOOD CITY deserves an exciting beverage (or two) to pair it with, and Kingston is more than up to the task. Just as Kingston’s proximity to rural land has given the culinary scene easy access to its farmers, so too has the area become a breeding ground for craft and microbreweries. While numerous up-and-comers exist today, Kingston Brewing Company was way ahead of the curve. A pioneer in the field, Ontario’s oldest brewpub has been going strong since it opened in 1986 – and one look at its courtyard patio, with views of Lake Ontario, and its extensive beer list will tell you why. In addition to making its own suds, Kingston Brewing Company has fostered a craft beer culture in Kingston by shining a light on its peers. The brewpub sells beer from local spots like Skeleton Park Brewery, purveyors of old world ales from three brothers with 45 years of brewing experience. If you haven't already sampled their European-style amber ale at the LCBO, you can try their beers at Kingston watering holes like Tommy's and Le Chien Noir. But they’re not the only ones keeping it in the family – Mackinnon Brothers Brewery, located on a 200-year-old family farm just outside Kingston, recently added hops to their thriving crop. Brothers Daniel and Ivan planted hops and malting barley in the surrounding fields and renovated the century old barns to make beers, like the easy drinking Red Fox Summer Ale and the Wild Peppermint Stout, handpicked and foraged by friends at

the County Bounty organic farm in PEC. An appreciation for the local terroir doesn’t stop at hops, with several breweries continuing the theme of farmto-fork that dominates the food scene. When Ron Shore opened Stone City Ales in 2014, he became as committed to local menu ingredients, serving artisinal cheese and charcuterie boards. At the Riverhead Brewery, soak up those sessionable beers with bread sourced from local bakery Bread & Butter. The Limestone City definitely has an affinity for patios. Whether you head to Battery Bistro for unobstructed views of the water or explore Kingston’s limestone back alleys and discover Rochleau Court, which houses the courtyard patios of Chez Piggy and the Toucan, there’s no better way to enjoy a cold one with a side of people-watching. If wine is more your thing, Prince Edward County's vineyards are right on Kingston's doorstep. Just an hour away, you'll find award-winning red, whites and sparkling wines made from the limestone-rich soil. With dozens of spots like Grange of Prince Edward and Sandbanks Estate Winery to choose from, it can be overwhelming – but County Sips offers full-day guided tours with sommelier, Ian Nicholls. Kingston doesn’t stop when the sun goes down – so whether you’re looking for a pub, club, lounge or live music, there’s something for every night out. As the site of the Tragically Hip’s formation, it’s no surprise that Kingston is a hotbed for musical activity. But beyond the Canadian icons, there’s a

PROMOTION

legacy that can be felt in the city’s live music scene night after night. Sip on a mojito at Olivea's bar on Tuesday nights while listening to free live jazz. The downtown family-run Italian trattoria makes their pasta and gnocchi inhouse as well as antipasti boards with local cheese and meat, plus steak from Enright Cattle Co. Head over to the Public House (inside the building Canada's first Prime Minister used as his law offices in the 1800s) for Country-Western Wednesdays and regular guest sets on the weekend, and stay for the strong selection of malt whiskies and beers on tap. Or pull up a stool at the Merchant Tap House – a historic 1836 building with over 25 draught beers and live music every Thursday, Friday and Saturday – to scope out Kingston's next big thing. Plus, you don't need a designated driver; Kingston’s compact downtown core means you can leave the car at home and stroll from bar to bar. Whether you're taking a Kingston Food Tour, dancing to Celtic punk bands, or soaking up the endless waterfront views, Kingston is the summer getaway that's missing from your calendar. ● For more information and to plan your trip, head to visitkingston.ca/eat-drink.

Scan this QR code to learn more about the brewers of Kingston.

FARLOW’S ON THE WATER In Angler Creek, this is the perfect pit stop for anyone visiting Englewood Beach or Stump Pass Beach State Park. The picturesque restaurant, owned by Keith and Laurie Farlow, is best enjoyed from under the twinkling lights and verdant trellis of the patio. The menu offers fusion dishes that mesh Keith’s Caribbean upbringing with Laurie’s passion for Southern cooking. To get a feel for their signature flavour, get the coconut shrimp with a yogurt and strawberry dip and Kentucky-inspired fried green tomatoes in cornmeal batter, before moving on to blackened grouper tacos with kiwi salsa.

INSIDER

Miami and Orlando get the headlines, but Katie Bridges thinks Punta Gorda deserves special attention for food.

HILE FLORIDA IS home to miles of beaches and some of the world’s most death-defying roller coasters, the snowbird state has yet to garner a reputation as a true foodie destination. Punta Gorda, in Charlotte County, might have something to say about that. Despite boasting heaping plates of fresh seafood, a walkable downtown with virtually no chain restaurants, and a seven-time James Beard semi-finalist chef in its midst (Jeanie Roland of the Perfect Caper), the city of less than 19,000 has, so far, flown under the radar. After Hurricane Charley hit in 2004, parts of the city were revitalized, including the waterfront and the historic district. One of the biggest beneficiaries was Fisherman’s Village, a vibrant shopping and dining destination with

a marina, military history museum and lots of live entertainment at spots like Harpoon Harry’s and Village Fish Market. The Harbour Walk is another addition, connecting Fisherman’s Village with downtown Punta Gorda, and giving cyclists and strollers pretty views of Charlotte Harbour and Peace River. Outside the downtown core, there are plenty of ways to work off all that good grub. Head to the remote Don Pedro Island for a chance to boat, kayak or stand-up-paddleboard through mangrove tunnels or get up- close and personal with the manatees, turtles, and even dolphins, that live beneath the crystal clear waters. Whether you’re taking a sunset cruise or soaking up the Florida charm along the palm tree-lined brick lanes, this coastal city deserves a spot on your mustvisit list year-round. f For more great travel content, check out our sister magazine, escapism Toronto. escapism.to

GETTING THERE

Downtown Punta Gorda is approximately a 40 minute drive from Southwest Florida International Airport (in Fort Myers), which is a three-hour flight from Toronto Pearson. Direct flights are available via WestJet and Air Canada multiple times a week and will cost you around $600 return.

WYVERN HOTEL

This beautiful boutique hotel is a great spot to lay your head, but you don’t have to stay here to enjoy everything the Wyvern has to offer. The brightest feather in the hotel’s cap is Perch 360, a rooftop bar and restaurant with fantastic views of Charlotte Harbour and downtown Punta Gorda. If you’re enjoying your comfy bed too much to leave, take advantage of their in-room dining service and order locally-sourced contemporary American cuisine from 88 Florida Keys. Chef John Ellis has created a menu that blends classic southern staples like shrimp and grits with more unexpected plates like beef tenderloin pot pie.

PEACE RIVER SEAFOOD

Photography: Katie Bridges

When the server hands you a newspaper before your food arrives, you know things are about to get messy. This seafood shack on the side of the highway might not look like much, but the crack of the mallett busting open crab shells is a Pavlov’s bell for hungry visitors. Since all seafood is caught daily, the menu is bound to change, but if you’re lucky you can dig into blue crab, shrimp and oysters served with corn and new potatoes. Grab a seat inside where fishing nets and dollar bills decorate the walls, or head outside to the deck – just be prepared to buddy up on tables.

VILLAGE FISH MARKET

The best way to enjoy sunset views is with a drink in hand, so we recommend heading to Fisherman’s Village early to snag a riverside seat at this popular spot. Everything that comes out of the kitchen looks droolworthy, but since the joint has a New England-inspired menu, seafood is a wise choice. With clam chowder, blue crab cake and oysters on the half shell, you really can’t go wrong. That said, whole-belly Ipswich clams, lightly breaded and perfectly golden, deserve top billing. Most menu items are available in lunch and dinner-size portions so you can try a few.

BOTTLE SERVICE Sip into something more comfortable this summer with our picks for the top ciders, canned cocktails and lower-octane beers. PHOTOGRAPHY BY KAILEE MANDEL ART DIRECTION BY APRIL TRAN

1 BANDIT BREWERY MR. PINK AMERICAN PALE ALE: Beers on their patio is the pinnacle of summer, so this hibiscus and watermelon ale speaks to us on a deep level. Breathe in those floral notes, take a sip and be glad that winter is a distant memory. $5.31, banditbrewery.ca 2 ELORA BREWING COMPANY LODESTAR SOUR ALE WITH PASSIONFRUIT: A rare instance when you absolutely should judge a book by its cover. A bright, tart sour that’s swimming in passionfruit flavour. Carve out some time to enjoy this beer, sold in 500 ml bottles with an eye-catching octopus label, from start to finish. $4.95, lcbo.com 3 MUSKOKA BREWERY SUMMER WEISS TROPICAL WHEAT: If you like fruit in your beer, this seasonal, sessionable wheat beer is a good

way to upgrade your summer drink. Cloudy with a chance of mango, passionfruit and banana, this has BBQ written all over it. $3.50, lcbo.com 4 HENDERSON X THE SOCIETY OF BEER DRINKING LADIES BLOOD ORANGE SAISON: This collaboration with beer-loving ladies and Sterling Road’s favourite taproom is the fruity, effervescent saison you didn’t know you needed. Reddish-orange in colour with heaps of citrus, but still surprisingly light. $3.85, lcbo.com 5 FOLLY BREWING HEIST SOUR PALE ALE: This College Street brewpub is already a favourite among hopheads for its bright brews and Belgian farmhouse traditions. Now that their Heist sour pale ale, with tart, apricot flavours, has hit LCBO shelves, they’ll be hoping to reach even more fans. $3.75, lcbo.com

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3 GROWERS CIDER CO HONEYCRISP APPLE CIDER: If your ideal cider drinking experience is akin to biting into fresh summer fruit, crack open a can of this. A sessionable cider with crisp acidity and a tease of sweetness. Perfect on the patio by itself. $3.25, lcbo.com 4 BRICKWORKS MINT AND BASIL CIDER: Pleasantly flavoured by mint and basil, the light apple notes in this cider are complemented by aromas of herbs. Super enjoyable on its own, but try pairing it with summery salad bowls and meat platters. $4.25, lcbo.com

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1 LIBERTY VILLAGE DRY CIDER: Liberty Village promises an extra-dry experience with their sugar-free cider. Unlike most ciders, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s completely fermented and no sugar is added. Kick off a summer night by mixing in a shot of your favourite gin. $3.50, lcbo.com 2 MALUS HOPPED CIDER: Small-batch deliciousness in a can with bursting bits of stone fruit and apples. It all washes down with a hint of baking spice at the end. Save this for brunch sessions that involve shellfish appetizers and seafood mains. $3.20, lcbo.com

It’s no secret that the best moments in life include good people, food & beer.

We didn’t make this up. We’re just perfecting it.

100 K I N G S T W E S T

STINGING BEE PIZZA

3 SOCIAL LITE SPIKED PEACH ICED TEA: Class up your cooler with this iced tea, which uses 100% real peach flavour and just a hint of citrus. With only 100 calories and no added sugar or sweetener, the only thing refined is you. $2.95, lcbo.com 4 DOS LOCOS LIME TEQUILA MARGARITA: Tequila doesn’t often make it into coolers, so we were thrilled to add this margarita mix, with ginger and spice notes, into our summer rotation. Cloudy in appearance and zipping with lime flavours. $3.45, lcbo.com

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1 GEORGIAN BAY CRANBERRY GIN SMASH: The cottage is for relaxing, not bartending. Grab this craft cocktail in a can, with gin, cranberry, lemon and lime, when you want something stronger but the lake is calling your name. $2.95, lcbo.com 2 ACE HILL KOMBUCHA: The first boozy kombucha in Ontario still has the same fermented black tea, lemon and ginger you might expect from the drink with a healthy reputation – but now vodka has been injected for a grownup version of the brew. $3.25, lcbo.com

LUNCH DINNER SOCIAL HOUR P R I VAT E E V E N TS

...NOT

Your Daddyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s You Dadd STEAKHOUSE

Reservations

416.613.9660 S T K S T E A K H O U S E .C O M 1 5 3 YO R K V I L L E AV E

CONTEST

STAY GROUNDED

Pilot Coffee Roasters is celebrating 10 years of helping customers make exceptional coffee at home.

OR MANY OF us, making coffee is as much a part of our startof-the-day routine as brushing our teeth. As we’re sleepily sipping our morning pick-meup, however, it can be easy to overlook the story of how our coffee gets from the farm to our cups. Pilot Coffee Roasters is dedicated to helping people understand where their coffee comes from and, this year, they’re celebrating 10 years of sourcing and roasting some of the best coffee possible. First opened in 2009, Pilot has grown from a single specialty cafe and micro-roastery in Leslieville to a fullservice roastery, cold brewery, training provider and cafe operator with seven locations across Toronto, including a seasonal container cafe that's currently

open at The Bentway. Although Pilot has expanded, their commitment to high-quality, sustainable coffee has remained unchanged. Almost all of Pilot’s coffee follows a direct trade sourcing model, which means Pilot visits the country of origin and purchases the beans directly from the producers. In addition to high-quality beans, Pilot knows the secret to great coffee is preparing it right. That’s why they offer public coffee training courses, led by experienced educators, to help you become a better barista at home. The ability to make exceptional coffee at home and the knowledge that your beans come from an ethical source? It’s a whole new kind of morning pick-me-up. ● For more information visit

WIN A BARISTA TRAINING COURSE

WIN

We’re teaming up with Pilot to give away a barista training course for one reader and three friends, valued at $600. Covering the fundamentals of specialty coffee and espresso based drinks, the three-hour program will help you and your friends up your home brewing game. For a full list of terms and conditions and to enter visit: foodism.to/ competition

pilotcoffeeroasters.com

PROMOTION

PARTNERS IN WINE With some lucky contest winners, we enjoyed a night of Jacob's Creek wines paired with tasty bites at the St. Lawrence Market Kitchen.

VINO VENTURING To celebrate the release of Jacob’s Creek’s new Double Barrel Chardonnay, we enjoyed an evening of wine tasting and delicious bites at the St. Lawrence Market Kitchen with some lucky Foodism readers. Guests loved the stone fruit flavours of Jacob’s Creek Double Barrel Chardonnay, the dark chocolate and red fruit aromas of the Double Barrel Shiraz and the dry, crisp finish of the Chardonnay Pinot Noir Sparkling.

Photography: Sandro Pehar

We chowed down on a series of elaborate charcuterie platters and canapés, then topped it all off with chocolate truffles for dessert – all provided by vendors at the St. Lawrence Market. And our friends at Eatable created a Jacob’s Creek Double Barrel Chardonnay infused vanilla popcorn that was the perfect wine-pairing snack.

FOODISM’S FINEST

The special events from around the city that we couldn’t keep to ourselves.

M ORAL ME A L

CB T U RNS X

S IP SA FA R I

Krista Faist CEO & Publisher

Suresh Doss Editor-at-Large

Katie Bridges Staff Writer

Cory Vitiello and Rob Feenie hosted a dinner on the rooftop of Cactus Club Cafe last month. The fourcourse meal (for $250 a plate) drew socialites, corporate honchos and benefactors (and me, somehow) to support Camp Oochigeas, a camp for children affected by cancer. The dinner raised over $89,000, but seeing so many people supporting an amazing cause was priceless.

Toronto dinner party king Charlie’s Burgers just celebrated 10 years of secret suppers in style with loads of caviar and fireworks. Franco Stalteri, event runner for CB, brought in the crew from Copenhagen’s Punk Royale — a team known for pairing pyrotechnics with indulgent courses from land and sea. Of all the food events I have been to, this was one of the most theatrical.

I joined Marriott’s first-ever cocktail crawl in Toronto, which took a group of thirsty journalists on a whistle stop tour of three of their properties. We kicked things off with a whisky tasting at Char No. 5, the Delta Toronto’s hotel bar, before taking a bus over to the Ritz-Carlton for liquid nitrogren martinis. The closer? Buildyour-own bloody marys at Louix Louis inside the St. Regis Toronto.

F L AVOUR OF THE WEEK Grand Cru Deli, grandcrudeli.com The Victorian house that previously housed Thoroughbred restaurant has been transformed into a cheerful wine bar with a snackable menu. The concept is inspired by the Sommelier Factory, an affiliated sommelier school located on the restaurant’s second floor. Founder Bruce Wallner joined forces with Thoroughbred chefowner Ariel Coplan and Alex Rykhva (who the pair met through the Sommelier Factory) to

create the wine-bar-meets-deli restaurant. There are 18 wines-by-the-glass (evenly split between sparkling, white and red) and over 50 bottles. Diners also have the option of a tasting flight – pick your own or let your server choose. The approach to the food menu here is uncomplicated: foods that pair well with wine. Naturally, that means lots of meat and cheese options, which you can combine to make your own charcuterie board. We started with a platter of soppressata, creamy Chateau de Bourgogne and chicken liver mousse, house-made marmalade and pickles, plus a punchy mustard (crunchy crostini was the vehicle for it all). f

PROMOTION

CAESAR THE DAY

We celebrated 50 years of the Caesar â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Canada's most loved cocktail â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with some friends at our foodism backyard party at Tastemaker.

HAIL CAESAR! In anticipation of National Caesar day on May 17th, and to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Caesar, we hosted a Caesar-themed backyard party at this year's Tastemaker in partnership with Smirnoff Vodka. Hosted at the Evergreen Brickworks, guests were invited to get inventive and 'build your own Caesar,' packed full of every Canadian Caesar garnish imaginable.

Photography: Sandro Pehar

Attendees had the chance to enter our contest to win a Big Green Egg MiniMax while they lounged in Muskoka chairs around the fire pit. Others played giant Jenga and Connect Four games on the lawn. And while they were hanging in our backyard, guests munched on Caesar flavoured popcorn from Eatable and sampled original and lime flavoured bottles of Chetty's Hot Sauce.

THE DIGEST

From more fish at McDonald’s to less meat in burgers, here’s the food news.

MICKEY SEAS

Chippy fans can rejoice. After a successful pilot in Atlantic Canada last year, McDonald’s Canada announced this spring that it was adding fish ’n’ chips to the menu across the country. For the limited run, seafood fans will be able to get two pieces of ethically-sourced haddock harvested off the shores of Nova Scotia. The company promises that each piece of battered fish is sustainably caught and certified by the Marine Stewardship Council, too. Bring on the tartar dipping sauce.

DEPART-UBER Travellers no longer need to choose between grabbing some pre-flight grub and loosing their coveted seat at the gate thanks to the launch of a pilot program between Toronto Pearson Airport, Uber Eats and HMSHost. In the first program of its kind, diners can use the Uber Eats app to have food delivered to the Terminal 3 International and Domestic Departures area. Scheduled to run until fall 2019, the program’s food options include Smoke’s Burritorie and Caplansky’s Deli.

BEST BREWS The 17th annual Canadian Brewing Awards recently wrapped up, and we think fans of local beer will be pleased with the results. A panel of judges blind tasted their way through over 50 beer styles, from European-style amber and North American-style wheat beers to Belgian-style saison. With our brewing industry blossoming in the last decade, it is no surprise that Ontario beers featured prominently on the list and over 50 of them won trophies. Popular Hamilton mainstay, Clifford Brewing took the brewery-of-the-year honour.

MEAT MARKET

Just in time for BBQ season, Los Angeles-based Beyond Meat is set to launch its much-loved vegan burgers in Canadian grocery stores. Made from pea protein, they have a loyal following thanks to a beef-burger-like appearance and texture. The burgers have already been available at A&W restaurants as part of a partnership with the brand, but the roll-out will see the meat-free burgers offered at over 3,000 Canadian grocery stores.

THE SELECTOR Find your new summer hangout on one of the hot, new patios, tour Toronto neighbourhood bars and refuel with a selection of delicious doughnuts.

UR CITY’S CULINARY prowess is amply represented by its various neighbourhoods. Ride the 501 Queen streetcar for a fine example of this: as you cruise from east to west the scenery morphs from Victorian facades to gleaming glass towers and hipster enclaves. The best time to take in Toronto’s

neighbourhood cocktail scene is on summer nights, whether you’re pulling up to tiki drinks in Polynesian surroundings or brushing shoulders in a whisky bar as you dance the night away. Nothing says Toronto in summer quite like… doughnuts? Hear us out. Colourful, jelly-stuffed, icing slathered, cake and yeast pastries can be found in nearly every corner

of the city. We think it’s a quintessential summer treat that should be enjoyed with friends, by the boxful. Luckily, there’s never a shortage of hot new patios in the city, whether you like sprawling skylines or cozy garden views. Given our recent affair with indoor food halls, an outdoor version was inevitable. Enter, Stackt (spoiler: it’s glorious). f

1. BARO More than two years after Baro opened on King West, the restaurant’s longanticipated patio is finally welcoming guests. Overflowing with lush greenery, the rooftop is an oasis. An enclosed section with a retractable roof and

window walls makes the airy space fit for a perfect patio afternoon even when Toronto’s fickle weather isn’t cooperating. In the patio’s outdoor kitchen, chefs cook a menu of simple items like roast chicken and grilled broccoli over charcoal. barotoronto.com

3. CASA L A PA L M A An unmarked door beside La Palma, leads up to where sister snack bar Casa La Palma has taken roost. Removed from the crowds, it offers a reprieve from the scrunched sidewalk patios. Bonus: retractable windows make the whole restaurant feel like a patio. lapalma.ca

2. MAISON SELBY The latest concept from Oliver & Bonacini, Maison Selby is set in a historic mansion that’s over a century old and has a checkered past. Each of the French bistro’s rooms has a separate aesthetic, from the bright,

tropical wallpaper in the room known as L’Orangerie, right down to the dimly lit speakeasy in the basement. A 32-seat garden patio wraps around the south side of the property and is sure to turn heads when it opens early this summer. maisonselby.com

4. STA C KT This marketplace is made entirely from shipping containers. More than 70 per cent of the 100,000-sq-ft space is outdoors – earning it recognition for its sheer size alone. Open this summer, a brand-new outdoor food and beverage pavilion will include seating across multiple courtyards. stacktmarket.com

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TERRIFIC TERRACES

Torontonians wait all year for the weather to warm and patios to open. These are the hot, new al fresco spots.

5. A RT HU R’S From Chase Hospitality Group, Arthur’s is a North American grill and cocktail bar offering spruced-up iterations of classic items. The midtown restaurant is sectioned into the bar, the Crystal dining room and, above it, the rooftop terrace that is set to open this summer. arthursrestaurant.ca

SPIRITED STROLLS

Add class to your crawls with these tours of top local beer bars, watering holes and gin joints. 1. GE RRA RD EAST Forget Leslieville – this is the holy grail of east-side bar crawls. Good Cheese, a specialty shop that’s ripe for in-house beer and wine pairings, is your first port of call. Head east to Pinkerton’s Snack Bar, a dive bar with exposed brick walls

and enough wall decorations to entertain while you sink a French 75. Then it’s across the road to Poor Romeo for rockinspired cocktails like Gimme Shelter. Wrap up by dancing your sins away at the not-so-secret bar, Vatican Gift Shop, where they do under-the-radar music.

3. PA RK DA L E Here’s a bar scene that prefers populism over polish. Find a dark corner to sip mezcal cocktails at PrettyUgly, then shuffle down Queen to the bright Hawaiian lights of Miss Things. Dip down Cowan to Pharmacy for unfussy, cash-only vibes, before ending with boozy teapots at Dumbo Snack Bar.

4. FAS HIO N DIST R I C T

2. OSSIN GTON Start your crawl early with a Saturday afternoon of jazz at the tiny Communist’s Daughter before heading for quirky creations like the classic cocktail jello flight at Pastiche. Ease your way into debauchery at Sweaty

Betty’s with local brews and shots under the twinkling Christmas lights before falling all the way down the rabbit hole with margaritas at Reposado and even racier shenanigans at burlesque bar, the Painted Lady. Expect to find boisterous crowds on Ossington all summer.

King Street isn’t just for suits any more. No bad evening starts with vermouth and pintxos, so kick things off at Labora’s counter, before heading south to Cloak on Wellington for speakeasy cocktails above Marben (reservation required). For a rowdy closer, head to Wvrst for craft beer and Bavarian bites.

5. JU NC T IO N Start your Saturday at Indie for hopforward beauties. Then, off to Junction City Music Hall for a tribute act or live band karaoke. Next, The Alpine has 26 local taps and cocktails like Little Malta. Refuel with a classic square slice from Vesuvio’s before wrapping up at Hole in the Wall for a paloma and spicy calamari.

1. C OP S D OUGHNUTS This stripped-down café keeps things ultra-simple with a menu of drip coffee and carnival-style mini doughnuts – and that’s it. Doughnuts are made fresh daily and topped with a smattering of Himalayan pink sea salt. Finish them

with cinnamon sugar or glaze, which comes in rotating flavours like sour cherry or horchata. The doughnuts are best eaten immediately, piping hot from the fryer. Even if it’s pink rather than blue, could there be a better name for a doughnut shop? copstreats.com

3. T HRO U G H B E I N G C O O L V EGA N This bakery-cum-grocery store near Lansdowne station sells vegan-friendly eats, but it’s their light, fluffy doughnuts that really draw line-ups. Classic flavours like a Homer-worthy sprinkle version join their more unusual variations like lemon poppyseed. @tbcvegan

2. GLORY H OLE D O U GHN UTS The branding may be retro, but their take on the beloved circular snack is entirely modern. Ashley Jacot De Boinod has two shops – Parkdale and Gerrard – for her daily creations. Doughnuts come

in yeast, cake and vegan versions and an ever-changing variety of flavours. Try the cinnamon-y Toast and Butter with whipped brown butter frosting; or the Birthday Cake, which features a sour cream cake base with a celebratory topping. gloryholedoughnuts.com

4. WHIT E L ILY D I N E R Riverside’s perennial favourite brunch spot brings their usual elevated-classic approach to their doughnuts. The chubby delights are small enough that you can talk yourself into having two as a brunch dessert (or for later) but indulgent enough that you know you should probably stick to one. whitelilydiner.ca

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CRÈME DE LA CRULLER

Step aside butter tarts, doughnuts are the true Canadian treat and these are the best in Toronto.

5. VO N DO U G HN U TS Choices at this cheery shop on the Danforth feature a variety of scratchmade icings, fillings, jams and custards. Some options are infused with alcohol, like the One Night Stand, which is topped with a glaze of tequila, triple sec and lime along with sea salt. Flavours are on their site. vondoughnuts.com

SCALLION PANCAKES: Wafer thin French-style crêpes dotted with chopped chives make a delicate vessel for the fried chicken.

FRIED CHICKEN: Vogels sources Ontario chicken and brines them in buttermilk before dredging them in a secret spiced flour mix. The meal feeds 4-6 for $500$900, depending on what caviar you choose.

CAVIAR: Gussy up your order of fried chicken with a choice of two caviars. Vogels features two options from Atlantic Sturgeon and two housemade concoctions (trout and salmon roe).

SIDES: Add some crunch to your crêpes with spiced hickory sticks or crispy shallots.

Momofuku Toronto 190 University Ave.

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Chef Hans Vogels of Momofuku Noodle Bar takes a family feast in an unexpected direction by pairing whole fried birds with caviar and crêpes. Must be ordered in advance.

SPREAD: Vogels ages blocks of Philly cream cheese in white miso, mirin and sake for a week and whips it into a flavourful spread.

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.

HAIL, THE CAESAR. PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.

Foodism - 17 - Toronto, food and drink

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