T O R O N T O , O N E B I T E AT A T I M E
Go beyond pepperoni.
PCÂŽ Black Label Pizza Sauce is made in Italy with carefully selected ingredients for a rich flavour that deserves a more elevated selection of toppings. Find more ways to play at pc.ca/blacklabel
START 1
prepare dough PC® BLACK LABEL “00” FARINA 1 CUPS (325 ML) KOSHER SALT 1½ TSP (7 ML) INSTANT YEAST ¾ TSP (4 ML) PC® CARBONATED NATURAL SPRING WATER ½ CUP (125 ML) EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL 1 TBSP (15 ML) Stir together flour, salt and yeast in bowl using fork. Add water and oil; stir until fully combined. Turn onto floured work surface. Knead until dough comes together and forms a ball. Transfer to oiled bowl; cover with plastic wrap and set in warm place for 90 mins or until doubled in size. 2
stretch dough Gently stretch out prepared pizza dough on lightly floured work surface to 11-inch (28 cm) circle, leaving thicker 1-inch (2.5 cm) border for crust.
3
spread sauce PC® BLACK LABEL PIZZA SAUCE Spread sauce generously over crust. 4
CHOOSE YOUR TOPPINGS SPINACH ASIAGO
PEPERONCINI SAUSAGE
FIG GORGONZOLA
• PC® Black Label Grilled and Marinated Artichoke Halves • Sliced PC® Black Label Black Garlic
• PC® Black Label Peperoncini Chopped Hot Chili Peppers in Oil • Grated PC® Black Label Aged 36 Months Parmigiano Reggiano
• Chopped PC® Black Label Figs Soft Dried Fruit
• Thinly sliced red onion • Sautéed baby spinach • Grated Asiago cheese
• Thinly sliced sweet onion • Dollops of ricotta cheese • Crumbled cooked mild Italian sausage
• Crumbled PC® Black Label Gorgonzola Dolce Soft Blue-veined Cheese • Sautéed sliced shallots • Crumbled goat cheese
5
bake Bake at 450°F (230°C) on preheated pizza stone until crust is golden and crisp and cheese is melted. 6
Garnish TENDER GREENS
HERBS
Toss baby kale, spinach or arugula with olive oil and lemon juice and sprinkle over top.
Sprinkle with chopped fresh basil, parsley or thyme.
#PlayWithYourFood
PC® BLACK LABEL BASIL INFUSED EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL Drizzle over top.
Try a better gin this holiday season.
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Perfect pairings for hosting & posting # SHARE T H E EXPE RIE NCE
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CONTACT
Hello@foodism.to PUBLISHER
Krista Faist
Editorial EDITOR AT LARGE
Suresh Doss COPY EDITOR
David Ort
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Jon Hawkins, Mike Gibson WRITERS
Andrea Yu, Jessica Huras COMMUNICATIONS ASSISTANT
Atyia Police
Design
2017 has been another record year for dining in Toronto. Almost every
ART DIRECTOR
reclaimed our obsession for all things Italian, and our forgotten love of
DESIGNER
French dining, sort of ... it’s coming. Nearly every cuisine is seeing more
CONTRIBUTING DESIGNERS
regional focus. The question is no longer “What do you want to eat?” but
PHOTOGRAPHERS
“What version? And where do you want to eat that?”
Matthew Hasteley April Tran Abigail Robinson, Emily Black Ryan Faist, Kailee Mandel CONTRIBUTORS
Dave Mitton, Karolyne Ellacott ADVERTISING
issue. Since then, the foodism team continues to grow. I’m proud of my
LEAD DEVELOPER
team’s exuberance in representing the city’s evolving culinary scene, from a
CHAIRMAN
Tim Slee
PRINTING
Transcontinental
CLICK
FOODISM.TO
FRONT COVER: Photography by Ian Dingle Art direction by Matthew Hasteley
It’s also been an incredible twelve months for foodism Toronto. It seems like only yesterday we were putting the finishing touches on our second
Nicole Aggelonitis, James Dalgarno, David Horvatin AJ Cerqueti
T O R O N T O , O N E B I T E AT A T I M E
major neighbourhood has a new brewery, or one in the works. We’ve
quick eating trip through Oakville’s restaurant renaissance (pg. 14) to a hit list of the best curries in town (pg. 96). There’s lots of holiday cheer sprinkled throughout this issue, including a
GRAZE 012 THE FOODIST 014 DAYTRIPPER 016 THE RADAR
guide to hosting the perfect dinner party (pg. 42) and a behind-the-scenes
018 WEAPONS OF CHOICE
look at iconic holiday treats (pg. 35). We’ve also stocked this issue with great
023 RECIPES
gifting ideas, whether it’s for a whisky or sparkling wine aficionado, a foodie
031 DAVE MITTON
or the frequent traveller in your life.
FEAST
In escapism, we explore two ends of Pennsylvania: Karolyne Ellacott gives us a tour of Philadelphia (pg. 54), while Andrea Yu has the insider’s
035 THE SWEETEST THINGS
guide to spending a nosh filled weekend in Pittsburgh (pg. 70). And if you’re
042 SEASON’S EATINGS
looking for an escape from the clutches of winter, we’ve got a roundup of our favourite sunny winter getaways (pg. 64). Whether you’re clinking wine glasses at a dinner party, or soaking up some rays on the beach, from all of us at foodism Toronto, we wish you many memorable meals this holiday season. f
048 COCKTAIL HOUR
ESCAPISM 054 FRIENDLY PHILLY 061 CHECKLIST 064 TROPIC LIKE IT’S HOT 070 INSIDER 072 JUST LANDED 073 REAR VIEW
Suresh Doss
EXCESS 082 BOTTLE SERVICE
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© Foodism Toronto 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. All information contained in this magazine is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Foodism Toronto cannot accept responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Foodism Toronto a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine. All material is sent at your own risk and although every care is taken, neither Foodism Toronto nor its employees, agents or subcontractors shall be held liable resulting for loss or damage. Foodism Toronto endeavours to respect the intellectual property of the owners of copyrighted material reproduced herein. If you identify yourself as the copyright holder of material we have wrongly attributed, please contact the office.
091 THE NOSTALGIST 093 THE DIGEST 094 THE SELECTOR 098 DECONSTRUCT
9
SLOW COOKER RICE PUDDING Eggs add an extra creaminess and richness to our classic rice pudding recipe. Cooked in your slow cooker, this delicious rice pudding couldn’t be any easier to make. Servings: 8 Prep Time: 5 minutes Slow Cooker Time: Low 3 hours and 45 minutes
Ingredients 4 cups (1 L) ½ cup (125 mL) ½ cup (125 mL) 3 ½ cup (125 mL) 1 tsp (5 mL) ¼ tsp (1 mL) ¼ tsp (1 mL)
milk Arborio (short-grain Italian) rice granulated sugar large egg yolks raisins, dried cranberries, cherries or blueberries vanilla salt ground cinnamon
Directions Spray the inside of a 4 quart (4 L) slow cooker with cooking spray. Add milk, sugar and rice; stir until sugar dissolves. Cover and cook on LOW for 3½ to 4 hours or until rice is tender (not mushy!) and pudding is slightly thickened, stirring after each hour.
TO MAKE THE PERFECT RICE PUDDING YOU NEED THREE EGGS.
and
THE OTHER INGREDIENTS, NATURALLY.
In a medium bowl, whisk egg yolks and ½ cup (125 mL) of the hot rice mixture. Slowly stir mixture into slow cooker. Stir in raisins, vanilla and salt. Cover and cook until creamy, about 15 minutes. Serve hot or warm. Alternatively, transfer to a shallow baking dish; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour. Sprinkle each serving with cinnamon.
Tip: Use leftover egg whites for making meringues; they can even be frozen. Tip: Spoon rice pudding into containers and pack for breakfast or lunch along with fresh fruit. Tip: If pudding is too thick, more milk can be added before serving.
Nutrients per serving (1/8th recipe): 206 calories, 4 g total fat, 140 mg sodium, 36 g carbohydrates, 1 g fibre, 6 g protein. Excellent source of vitamin B12 and vitamin D. Good source of riboflavin and calcium.
Mainville Family, Egg Farmers, St. Isidore, ON
— PART 1 —
GRAZE “EGGNOG IS TO CHRISTMAS AS ROSÉ IS TO SUMMER: IT JUST MAKES EVERYTHING BETTER” THE FOODIST, 012
012 THE FOODIST | 014 DAYTRIPPER | 016 THE RADAR 018 WEAPONS OF CHOICE | 023 RECIPES | 031 DAVE MITTON
THE FOODIST
Is any holiday drink more divisive than eggnog? Count Suresh Doss as a fan of the yuletide punch
LOCAL HEROES TOR ONTO’S B E ST PAST RY PR OF E SSION A L S
1 RYOSUKE KITA mon K patisserie
I
DIDN’T GROW UP drinking eggnog for the holidays. Instead, my introduction to the sweet, creamy punch came late in my teens, at a party, in what I remember being a trifecta of corny holiday revelry. There were ugly sweaters (I was forced to wear a green one that was two sizes too small), plenty of Bing Crosby playing in the background and an overzealous uncle who had recently discovered a new holiday drink at the grocery store. As soon as I entered the kitchen, I was handed a glass filled to the brim with a yellow, incredibly thick liquid blanketed with cinnamon and a tower of whipped cream. I instantly fell in love with a new tradition. Not just because its characteristics reminded me of Latin American beverages (horchata) or South Asian drinks (lassi), but to me, it represented the entire holiday experience in one cozy mug. One year a friend of mine used eggnog to make buttercream for dark chocolate cupcakes. She’s also made an eggnog syrup for pouring on pancakes and cinnamon rolls. Those sound like menu items for brunch on Queen West, right? Delicious stuff. Personally, nothing compares to the versatility of eggnog as an adult holiday tipple when spiked with my choice of brown liquor. Sadly, only a handful of my friends share the love. Most of them hate eggnog for its thick texture and sickly sweet flavour. I abandoned eggnog for many years for this reason alone, until about five years ago when wine writer Rick Van Sickle reacquainted me with it. “As a kid, I just loved the gooey consistency and the cinnamon and
12
nutmeg spices my mom would generously sprinkle on top. It is a tradition that has followed me every Christmas no matter where I am and it’s now successfully passed down to my children,” he says. Like me, Rick is all about the traditions of eggnog: “There is a sense of excitement every Dec. 1 when I come home with that first bottle of eggnog, and we sit down as a family and enjoy that first sip – spiked or not. The Christmas season has begun.” It also helps that eggnog has kept up with the trend for everything to be artisanal and carefully crafted. Harmony Organic, Hewitt’s, Rolling Meadow – these are not your parents’ eggnogs. The better quality opens the door to creating your perfect eggnog elixir. Eggnog isn’t something you order at a bar; it’s not something you drink outside the strict seasonal window, which opens on Dec. 1 and closes at the stroke of midnight on Dec. 26. The recipe from the Serious Eats website is a classic and a good start, mixed with dark rum and nutmeg. Rick says he has refined his eggnog-ing over the years to create the “absolutely perfect” drink, and if you’re on the fence about eggnog, give it a try. Mix one part Harmony Organic eggnog, one part 7-year old Havana Club Rum and one part ice cubes. Generously top it with cinnamon and nutmeg and serve in the heaviest tumbler you have. Sit down next to a roaring fire, or play a favourite holiday classic, and enjoy that rum-soaked eggnog. And as my fellow eggnog lover Rick Van Sickle says “Eggnog is to Christmas as rosé is to summer: It just makes everything better”. f
Kita combined the French pastry techniques he learned at Celestin restaurant with his Japanese culinary heritage for mon K patisserie, the East York shop he runs with his wife, Naomi. Kita emphasizes nuanced flavours over sugary indulgence for offerings like green tea eclairs and some of city’s best croissants.
2
MICHELLE EDGAR Sweet Escape Patisserie
A career as a baker lets Edgar combine creativity and chemistry. At her Distillery District bakery she puts a playful twist on the classics – think Earl Grey tea macarons or smoked chocolate, toffee and sea salt cookies.
3
SIMON BLACKWELL Blackbird Baking Co.
Blackwell comes from a long line of bakers but started as a chef and a chocolate maker at SOMA before focusing on baking. He now supplies baguettes, focaccia, ciabatta and other exceptional loaves to over 60 wholesale clients around Toronto, in addition to selling directly to the bread-hungry public from his Kensington Market bakery. Blackwell is currently developing an entirely whole-grain variation of the bakery’s wildly popular sourdough bread.
Photography: Eggnog by Shutterstock; Heroes 2,3,4 and Popcorn by Ryan Faist
S PEC I ALT Y PO PCO RN
4
LESLEY MATTINA OMG Baked Goodness
During her university days, Mattina found herself spending more time cooking for friends than studying and realized her future was in the culinary world. Then, she developed an appreciation for classic cuisine while working at Niagara’s Inn on the Twenty. Her Dundas West bakery, initially known for its cupcakes, is gaining recognition for its many other offerings. Try the herb and garlic focaccia, which is also available as part of prepared meals like breakfast hoagies and muffuletta sandwiches.
5
CHRISTINN HUA Millie Patisserie
Christinn Hua creates desserts that are both delicate and beautiful. She began with Millie Creperie, which specializes in Japanese-style crepes — sweet crepes that are rolled into handheld cones so they can be enjoyed on the go. She’s since opened two additional Millie locations in the Entertainment District and Markham. Hua’s signature dessert is the Mille Crepe Cake, a cake made from twenty thin crepes layered with pastry cream in flavours like matcha and vanilla.
Welcome winter with open arms by grabbing a bag from one of Toronto’s finest popcorn purveyors TORONTO POPCORN COMPANY
THE GOLDEN APPLE CONFECTIONARY
AUNTIE JO’S KETTLE CORN
Toronto’s only dedicated, indie popcorn purveyor makes an impressive 90+ flavours in its Kensington Market shop. Husband and wife duo Joseph and Caramhel Villegas personally pop each batch before dressing the kernels with flavours like espresso-caramel, made with locally-roasted coffee beans or a cheesy version with real cheddar. @topopcornco
Golden Apple is the popcorn place to hit for those with a sweet tooth. The caramel corn stands out from the selection at this Liberty Village shop. A light, sweet and buttery coating acts as the perfect base for owner Stephanie Waites’s creative, seasonal flavours: pumpkin-spice caramel in autumn and festive white chocolate candy cane for Christmas. thegoldenapple.ca
Joanne Mele started making her signature kettle corn at home as a treat for her daughter. She’s now a regular on the summer fair, festival and farmers’ market circuit. (Her daughter helps to package and sample the goods.) Popping corn, corn oil, cane sugar and sea salt are the only ingredients she adds to her giant propane-fuelled kettle. auntiejoskettlecorn.com
13
DAY TRIPPER
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Other must-try spots
Halfway between Toronto and Hamilton, suburban Oakville is becoming a hotbed for innovative chefs with exciting new menus
GLOBAL GRAZING
Maro’s; 135 Kerr St. Beautifully presented, refined takes on traditional Middle Eastern cuisine. Get the falafel or the eggplant and chickpea stew. Leave with a piece of baklava.
A handful of restaurants are at the forefront of Oakville’s current wave of culinary revitalization. And not all of them are brand new. From an established veteran to an up-andcoming challenger here are two spots for the hungry explorer.
marosbistro.com ◆◆ Mye Restaurant;
143 Church St. Oakville’s original Japanese restaurant is still a local favourite after 30 years. Don’t miss the charbroiled ribeye steak yakiniku, prepared with chef Mo’s house-made signature sauce. @mye_restaurant
◆◆ Hexagon
Restaurant; 210 Lakeshore Rd. E. The newcomer is a fine dining spot that serves modern updates to French dishes with a touch of molecular gastronomy. It’s also easily the best looking restaurant in Oakville. @hexagonrestaurant
BRUNCH ALL DAY
Whether with caesars or mimosas, locals love their brunch in Oakville. They take restaurant selection very seriously and the hot-ticket seats can be hard to get. Our top two picks are restaurants that have mouthwatering takes on the mid-morning meal.
◆◆ Kerr Street Café;
298 Kerr St. Here, the town’s best espresso drinks meet wellchosen craft beers. The café’s brunch menu ranges from eggs florentine with potato hash to blueberry and maple ricotta French toast. kerrstreetcafe.com
14
Cucci’s; 119 Jones St. For ten years, Cucci’s modern Italian cooking has been one of the best fine dining experiences in Oakville. Refined and luxurious but without any ostentation. cucci.ca
◆◆ Stoney’s Bread
Company; 325 Kerr St. On weekends, locals come to this institution to catch up on gossip over margherita pizza and breakfast sandwiches. The menu is extensive and the service is welcoming.
Noble Bistro; 218 Lakeshore Rd. E. Seasonally inspired, farm-to-table cooking meets an impressive wine list at this casual spot. The by-the-glass program is one of the best in Oakville.
@stoneysbreadco
noblebistro.com
Food worth
Cele ating Your holiday season starts here.
stlawrencemarket.com
BITE-SIZED
FOODISM.TO/ NEWSLETTER
Drinking
C RAF T B EER M AR K ET
DRINKING GRAZING DINING TRENDING
THE RADAR We take you through the best new bar and restaurant openings from now through the new year Dining
BA C C HAN AL
This casual Queen West bistro joins the current wave of French openings. The menu offers new takes on old classics such as steak frites or pork and duck liver paté. The Roman god of wine inspired the name, so no surprise that they have an impressive list of by-theglass options drawn from both New and Old World wineries. A menu of absinthe cocktails rounds out the drinks. @bacchanal.to
Dining
AK IRA BAC K
Korean-American chef Akira Back (who worked under Nobu Matsuhisa) has already taken his blend of Japanese-Korean fare to Las Vegas, Singapore and Jakarta. His latest opening is a restaurant in Toronto’s Bisha Hotel. If Back’s existing operations are an indication, we can expect inventive, modern takes on Japanese classics with Korean twists – like bigeye tuna sashimi pizza topped with micro shiso sprouts or a crispy kalbi sushi roll filled with Korean short rib. @akirabacktoronto
Trending
M AHJ ONG BAR
Toronto’s growing roster of hidden watering holes now includes a sprawling bar inspired by classic mahjong parlours. Its entrance is decorated in pink and made to look like a convenience store, which sells shrimp chips and other snacks. The cocktail program gets its Asian influence from sake, soju and shiso leaves. Malaysian street food restaurant Soos helped develop a menu that features items such as Chengdu chili wontons, spicy fried eggplant and beef brisket noodles. @mahjongbar
Dining
M IRA
Stuart Cameron, the executive chef behind Patria and Byblos, offers an updated take on Peruvian cuisine with his latest opening through INK Entertainment. Find plenty of fresh seafood on his menu, such as tiradito – sliced, raw fish in a spicy sauce. They also do upscale takes on anticucho skewers (a popular street snack) of wagyu short rib in a rocoto chili pepper sauce or organic chicken with amarillo chili. @chef_stucameron
16
The Financial District’s latest beer hall is going for scale. They have 160 brews on tap (locals like Blood Brothers and Left Field join international standards), storage for 250 kegs behind a glass viewing wall, room for 500 guests inside and another 250 in the outdoor beer garden. Bay Street has a new watering hole. @CRAFTtoronto
Trending
G E NE RA L ASSE M B LY
Toronto’s favourite cheesy slices have a new home at General Assembly. The menu focuses on 10-inch personal pies assembled on naturally-leavened dough and baked in hand-built ovens. The design incorporates elements to keep the traffic from pickup and delivery orders separate from the space for those who are dininig in. gapizza.com
Drinking
NORT H ER N M AVE R I CK
Another brewpub enters the scene with the 400-seat Northern Maverick at Bathurst and Adelaide. Brewmaster Andrew Crowder is producing some impressive ales, lagers and sours on the 10-hectolitre brewing system. Chef Mark Cutrara’s charcuterie, specialized cheeses and fresh seafood are food menu highlights. northernmaverick.ca
The TyrconnellŽ Single Malt Irish Whiskey 43%-46% Alc./Vol. 2017 ŠKilbeggan Distilling Import Company, Chicago IL
WEAPONS OF CHOICE Take the hectic out of holiday cooking with these top-notch tools for the serious cook PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN FAIST
18
SHA K E N AND ST IR R E D ANKARSRUM ORIGINAL MIXER 6230, $1,088 Photograph by ###
Mix small or large batches of dough using this professional quality mixer. With the optional attachments, it transforms into a multipurpose tool that can blend, strain, grate and more. russellhendrix.com
19
LOWEST OF THE LOW HAMILTON BEACH SOUS VIDE & 6 QT SLOW COOKER, $199.99 Use this versatile appliance as either a sous vide water oven or a slow cooker. Set it in the morning and come home after work to a perfectly cooked meal. hamiltonbeach.ca
20
U NDE R PR E SSU R E INSTANT POT, $129.95 The hottest kitchen tool of the year, this pressure cooker speeds up cooking time and uses less energy. It also works as a browning pan, steamer, yogurt maker, rice cooker and food warmer. store.instantpot.ca
21
Completing your special moments since 1975. P erfect for pairing. inniskillin.com
Please enjoy responsibly.
Recipes
HOLIDAY HOME COOKING
FILL YOUR HOUSE WITH FRIENDS AND FAMILY AND THEN FEED THEM WITH YOUR CREATIONS. BOOKS BY MARTHA STEWART AND REDPATH ARE HERE TO HELP
W
HETHER YOU’RE PLAYING host for a crowd or prepping for a potluck gathering, these recipes will be welcome at any festive feast. During the holidays, we’re motivated to put extra effort into a more complicated technique or spring for a finer cut of meat. Preparing a meal for family and friends can often be an overwhelming task, so we look to one of the most notable figures in home cooking and a trusted kitchen appliance to make things a bit less daunting. In Martha Stewart’s Slow Cooker ($35, chapters.indigo.ca), braising, simmering and
stewing becomes an effortless, hands-off affair. Leave it to Stewart to craft recipes that produce dishes that get it just right. Of course, a holiday meal isn’t complete without something sweet, which is where The Redpath Canadian Bake Book ($24.48, amazon.ca) comes in. The collection combines classic desserts and baked goods, many of which are ideal for the holiday season as an impressive final course. If the non-stop carols and opulent storefront decorations haven’t created the proper festive mood, these two new cookbooks will be just the ticket. f
FOLLOW US @FOODISMTO
FOODISMTO
F O O DISM RE CIPE S, IN ASSOC IAT ION W IT H INNISK IL L IN
Photograph by ###
Inniskillin has a proud history as Canada’s first estate winery and has been dedicated to producing premium VQA wines for over 40 years. Inniskillin has garnered many awards and accolades for table wines, but is best known for its iconic Icewines. This rich and concentrated wine is made in the winter from grapes naturally frozen on the vine.
Today, Inniskillin has vineyards in both the Niagara Peninsula in Ontario and the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia. Inniskillin’s Niagara Estate winemaker, Bruce Nicholson, honours a tradition of excellence and innovation by producing distinctive wines. Inniskillin wines pair well with special occasions shared among family and friends.
23
Martha Stewart’s
VEGETABLE CONFIT JUST LIKE THEIR CARNIVOROUS COUSINS, VEGETARIANS TURN TO HEARTY DISHES WHEN THE WEATHER COOLS
PAIRING
Inniskillin Estate Series Chardonnay
A lively chardonnay with a rich mouthfeel and lingering finish. Fresh tropical fruit complements notes of spice, vanilla and cream. LCBO #317768/ Wine Rack
I N GREDI EN TS Root Vegetable Confit ◆◆ 4 small carrots, peeled but
with ends left intact ◆◆ 4 small parsnips, peeled ◆◆ 2 beets, peeled and cut into
½-inch wedges ◆◆ 8 cipollini onions ◆◆ 1 fennel bulb, cut into
wedges with core intact ◆◆ 2 dried bay leaves ◆◆ 1 tsp coriander seeds ◆◆ 3 dried red chiles ◆◆ 4 to 5 cups olive or canola oil ◆◆ Pistachio pesto
Pistachio Pesto ◆◆ 1/2 cup roasted salted shelled
pistachios ◆◆ 1/2 cup packed fresh flat-leaf
parsley ◆◆ 1 small garlic clove, smashed
and peeled ◆◆ 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil ◆◆ 2 Tbsp red wine vinegar ◆◆ 2 Tbsp finely grated Pecorino
Romano cheese
24
Root Vegetable Confit Method
1 Preheat a 5-to 6-quart slow cooker. 2 Combine carrots, parsnips, beets, onions, fennel, bay leaves, coriander seeds, chiles and oil in the slow cooker. Cover and cook on high until tender, about 2½ hours (or on low for 5 hours). Let cool in oil for 30 minutes, then using a slotted spoon, transfer to a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet to drain. (Save the flavorful oil to use in dressings, to sauté or fry with, or of course, to poach subsequent batches of vegetables.)
Pistachio Pesto Method
3 In a mini food processor, pulse ½ cup roasted salted shelled pistachios; ½ cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley; 1 small garlic clove, smashed and peeled; and ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil until finely chopped. Add 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar and 2 tablespoons finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese, and pulse to combine. Transfer the wellincorporated mixture to a bowl. 4 Serve the cooled vegetables with the pistachio pesto. f
Martha Stewart’s
COQ AU VIN A CONTEMPORARY TAKE ON A TRADITIONAL FRENCH COUNTRY CLASSIC THAT IS PERFECT FOR WINTER
ING R E DIE NTS ◆◆ 12 bone-in, skin-on chicken
thighs (about 5 lbs) ◆◆ Coarse salt and freshly
Method
1 Preheat a 5-to 6-quart slow cooker. 2 Season chicken with salt and pepper, then toss with flour to coat thighs, shaking off excess. In a skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until edges are crisp, around 15 minutes. Transfer bacon to a paper-towel-lined plate and let drain. Reserve fat in pan. 3 Add mushrooms and garlic to pan, and cook over medium heat until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Transfer to the slow cooker. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil, onions, and carrots to pan. Increase heat to medium-high and cook vegetables until browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer to slow cooker. 4 Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to pan. In two batches, add chicken thighs and cook until browned all over, about 8 minutes per batch. With a slotted spoon, transfer to slow cooker. Pour off excess fat and return pan to heat. Add wine, scraping up brown bits from the bottom. Bring wine to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes. Pour wine and the water over chicken. Sprinkle with bacon and thyme. Cover and cook on low until chicken is tender, 5 to 6 hours (or on high for 2½ hours). Remove chicken and vegetables from sauce and skim any fat and season. f
ground pepper ◆◆ ¼ cup all-purpose flour ◆◆ 6 slices bacon, coarsely
chopped ◆◆ ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ◆◆ 16 oz white mushrooms,
quartered ◆◆ 3 garlic cloves, chopped ◆◆ 3 small onions, cut into large
wedges ◆◆ 9 small carrots, halved
lengthwise ◆◆ ¾ cup boiling water ◆◆ 1½ cups dry red wine ◆◆ 4 thyme sprigs
PAIRING
Photography: Stephen Kent Johnson
Inniskillin Estate Series Pinot Noir
A fruit-forward pinot noir with soft tannins. Aromatics of plum and flavours of leather and vanilla mirror the fruit aromas. LCBO #261099/ Wine Rack
25
Redpath Sugar’s
P erfect for pairing.
ROUND BABKA A BAKED FAVOURITE WITH A CLASSIC FLAVOUR COMBINATION
inniskillin.com
1 Pour the warm milk into a medium bowl. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the sugar and the yeast over the milk. Let stand until puffy, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1/2 cup of the flour. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and set in a warm place until doubled, about 20 minutes. 2 In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl and using a hand-held electric mixer), cream the butter, oil and remaining sugar until fluffy, about 2 minutes. With the mixer running on medium, beat in the egg and yolks until well combined. Beat in the orange zest and vanilla extract. 3 Fit the stand mixer (if using) with the dough hook and turn it to low. Beat in the remaining flour in two additions, incorporating fully after each addition. Beat for 1 minute. Beat in the yeast mixture and run just until the dough starts to come together, about 2 minutes. 4 Sprinkle salt over the dough. Increase speed to medium-low. Beat until dough is smooth and pulls away cleanly from the sides of the bowl. 5 Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead it a few times to bring it together into a ball. (If not using a stand mixer, mix in the flour, yeast mixture and salt until combined, then turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth and soft.) 6 Place the dough in a lightly-oiled large bowl, turning to coat evenly with oil. Cover the bowl with a damp towel. Refrigerate until the dough has doubled in size, 24 hours. 7 On a lightly floured surface, punch down the dough to remove air. Grease a deep 8-inch round baking pan
Please enjoy responsibly.
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PAIRING
Inniskillin Vidal Icewine
A luscious, crisp and bright vidal. Aromas of mango and orange are complemented by peach, nectarine and citrus flavours. LCBO #388306/Wine Rack
and line with parchment paper. Roll out the dough to an 18- x 14-inch rectangle, arranging it so that one long end is parallel to the edge of your work surface. (It will be quite thin.) 8 Using a rubber spatula, carefully spread the cooled chocolate-orange filling over the dough, leaving a 1/2-inch border along each long edge. Sprinkle chocolate evenly over top. 9 Lightly brush water along the border of the long side furthest from you. Starting with the long side nearest you, roll the dough to form a rope, pressing down gently to seal the dampened edge. Using your palms, gently roll the rope of dough back and forth on the work surface until it has an even thickness of 2 to 21/2 inches. Carefully place the rope of dough on a large baking sheet, coiling it loosely to fit. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 10 minutes. 10 Return the rope to the work surface with the seam side down. Using a serrated knife, carefully slice the rope in half lengthwise. With the cut sides facing up, join the ends of the two pieces together to form an inverted V. Take the left arm of the V and lift it over the right. Repeat the process until the end is reached, twisting the two pieces into a braid. Gently press the ends together to seal. 11 Coil the braided dough into the prepared pan with cut sides facing up. Cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap. Let stand in a warm place until doubled in size, 11/2 to 2 hours. When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 375 F. Bake until the babka is golden brown and a thermometer registers 190 F, 25 to 30 minutes. 12 While the babka is baking, make
the orange syrup. Using a vegetable peeler, carefully pare three strips of rind from the orange. Halve the orange and squeeze out 1/3 cup of the juice. In a small saucepan, combine the orange rind and juice, sugar and maple syrup. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and discard the orange rind.
Chocolate-Orange Filling
13 In a medium bowl, whisk together
the chocolate, sugar, cocoa powder, cinnamon and salt. 14 Set a small saucepan over medium heat and melt the butter with the orange juice just until it begins to simmer, 30 to 60 seconds. Remove from the heat and stir in the orange zest and vanilla extract. 15 Pour the butter mixture over the chocolate mixture and stir to combine. Some of the chocolate will melt but the filling won’t be completely smooth. Let cool slightly. f
P erfect for pairing.
ING R E DIE NTS Photography: Redpath Sugar
Dough ◆◆
cup warm whole milk cup lightly packed golden yellow sugar ◆◆ 2 tsp active dry yeast ◆◆ 2 cups all-purpose flour ◆◆ cup unsalted butter, softened ◆◆ 2 Tbsp vegetable oil ◆◆ 1 large egg ◆◆ 2 large egg yolks ◆◆ 2 Tbsp finely grated orange zest ◆◆ 1 Tbsp vanilla extract ◆◆ 1/2 tsp fine sea salt ◆◆ Chocolate-Orange Filling ◆◆ 1/2 cup finely chopped dark chocolate or mini chocolate chips ◆◆
Orange Syrup ◆◆ 1 large orange ◆◆
cup granulated sugar
◆◆ 1 Tbsp maple syrup or liquid
honey
Chocolate-Orange Filling ◆◆ 1/2 cup finely chopped dark
chocolate or mini dark chocolate chips ◆◆ 1/2 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar ◆◆ 2 Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder ◆◆ 1 tsp ground cinnamon ◆◆ 1/4 tsp fine sea salt ◆◆ cup unsalted butter, softened ◆◆ 2 Tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice ◆◆ 2 Tbsp finely grated orange zest ◆◆ 2 tsp vanilla extract
“I love the entire winemaking process. At every stage, there are risks, challenges and rewards. I love seeing the expression on people’s faces as they taste Inniskillin Icewine for the first time. When they taste the intense flavour in this rich, golden nectar, they begin to understand why we have become world famous for our Icewine.” Bruce Nicholson,
WINEMAKER, NIAGARA ESTATE
Inniskillin wines are sold at the INNISKILLIN ESTATE WINERY, WINE RACK LOCATIONS, LIQUOR STORES, and online at GREATESTATESNIAGARA.COM.
Visit INNISKILLIN.COM to join our wine club and learn more about winery tours, tastings, and events. Please enjoy responsibly.
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Redpath Sugar’s
GINGER SPICE CAKE
PAIRING
Inniskillin Estate Series Late Autumn Riesling
An aromatic riesling with a soft mouthfeel. Flavours of tropical fruit complement notes of ripe apple. LCBO
SWEET MEETS MORE SWEET WITH A HOLIDAY-READY PAIRING OF GINGERBREAD AND MOLASSES Method
1 Preheat the oven to 350 F. Grease and flour a 9-inch Bundt pan. 2 In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, salt and nutmeg. 3 In a large bowl, use an electric mixer to cream the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. Beat in the egg, then beat in the molasses. 4 Add the flour mixture to the sugar mixture alternating with the hot water, making three additions of flour and two of water, and beginning and ending with the flour.
5 Scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until a wooden skewer inserted in the cake comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. 6 Let the cake cool in the pan for 5 to 10 minutes. Invert a serving plate on top of the pan. Flip over the plate and pan to remove the cake from the pan. Let the cake cool completely. 7 For the molasses glaze, whisk together the icing sugar, butter, molasses, milk and vanilla extract in a small bowl until smooth. 8 Pour the glaze over the cake, letting it drizzle down the side and set. f
#219543/Wine Rack
ING R E DIE NTS Cake ◆◆ 23/4 cups all-purpose flour ◆◆ 11/2 tsp baking soda ◆◆ 1 tsp ground ginger ◆◆ 1 tsp ground cinnamon ◆◆ 1/2 tsp ground cloves ◆◆ 1/2 tsp fine sea salt ◆◆ Pinch of freshly grated
nutmeg ◆◆ 1/2 cup unsalted butter,
softened ◆◆ 1/2 cup granulated sugar ◆◆ 1 large egg ◆◆ 1 cup fancy molasses ◆◆ 1 cup hot water
Molasses Glaze ◆◆ 1/4 cup icing sugar, sifted ◆◆ 2 Tbsp unsalted butter,
melted ◆◆ 2 Tbsp fancy molasses ◆◆ 1 Tbsp whole milk ◆◆ 1 tsp vanilla extract
Photography: Redpath Sugar
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Canada’s original Estate Winery. Crafting award winning wines for over 40 years. P erfect for pairing. inniskillin.com Please enjoy responsibly.
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Dave Mitton’s
OUR NATIONAL SPIRIT
J.P. Wiser’s Global Whisky Ambassador Dave Mitton sings the praises of Canadian whisky
I
FIRST STARTED REALLY paying attention to Canadian whisky about ten years ago when I created a cocktail in honour of my grandfather who had just passed away. To reflect his character, I wanted to create a substantial and weighty drink that also had a very soft and gentle side to it. Canadian whisky seemed a natural fit, our national spirit made up of corn and rye grain which is for the most part a very gentle whisky that can have a more powerful finish. This was the beginning of my journey into learning how diverse and innovative the Canadian whisky category can be. It’s been an extraordinary journey over the past four years travelling throughout Canada, the U.S., Australia and Europe, spreading the love for our national spirit as
a global ambassador. I represent J.P. Wiser’s, brands, which are all created at Hiram Walker Distillery in Windsor, Ont. While Canada has a long history of whisky production going back to the late 1800s, we haven’t been under the spotlight until fairly recently. In the last few years, bartenders from around the world have started to notice that we make great whisky in Canada, with a range of products that is as diverse as the whisky enthusiast. I’m seeing this change from a variety of perspectives, from the casual drinker who is spending more time exploring the Canadian whisky aisles at the LCBO, to bartenders across the country that try to outdo one another by stocking their shelves with every bottling they can get their hands on. There is
Photography: Brilynn Fergusson
a real palpable buzz about what we produce in this country. I feel a sense of patriotism from coast to coast. The Canadian whisky renaissance is just beginning. Interest in the last few years has encouraged companies like Hiram Walker Distillery to produce higher quality products, and more interesting, complex and bolder whiskies. We’re now starting to see what our local distilleries can do, like our Northern Border Collection for example. This is a selection of robust whiskies that all have their unique flavour profiles, from whiskies that have spent time in virgin oak to ones being finished in rum barrels. Much like many of the other Canadian products coming out, these have distinct tastes from sweet and spicy characteristics to whiskies that are extremely rich and silky to sip on. I’m very excited to see what the future holds for the Canadian whisky category. We’re seeing more small distilleries open across the country who produce unique whiskies. Whisky makers are creating blends significantly higher in Canadian rye content. We are starting to see one hundred per cent single-grain whiskies as well as multiple grain whiskies becoming more accessible. Larger and more well-known brands have certainly been breaking the mold experimenting with different grains, distillates and wood, as well. To make enough noise to be heard around the world we all need to work together and show everyone that some of the best whiskies are produced right here in Canada. I’m extremely fortunate to be working with a team of individuals who have become more like family over the last several years and are at the forefront of the compelling Canadian whisky revolution. Here’s to 2018! f
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$32.95
$32.95
$24.95
— PART 2 —
FEAST “IF YOU’RE CUTTING THROUGH A FRUITCAKE THAT HAS NOT AGED LONG ENOUGH, IT WILL CRUMBLE” THE SWEETEST THINGS, 035
035 THE SWEETEST THINGS | 042 SEASON’S EATINGS | 048 COCKTAIL HOUR
THE SWEETEST THINGS Andrea Yu discovers how Toronto’s best bakeries blend long-standing family traditions with modern techniques to churn out holiday treats for the hungry masses PHOTOGRAPHY BY KAILEE MANDEL
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LEFT: Mario Totaro, Summerhill Market’s head pastry chef, has been making fruitcake for over 20 years
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Summerhill Market Jane Rodmell cherishes childhood memories of helping her mother slice sugary pieces of lemon and orange in preparation for the family’s annual holiday fruitcake bake. “I was allowed to put my hands into the big mixing bowl to help mix the batter into the fruit,” says Rodmell. “Spicy aromas filled the kitchen as the cakes were baking and I well remember the feeling of excitement and anticipation of the treats in store.” The traditional fruitcake recipe has been passed down to Rodmell from her grandmother, who came from Somerset, England. But it’s been enjoyed by holiday revellers across Toronto since 1984 when Rodmell opened her well-regarded food market and bakery, All The Best Fine Foods. The business closed in 2016 and was acquired by Summerhill Market the following year. Rodmell’s family fruitcakes are now created by pastry chef Mario Totaro in a Leaside baking facility and sold under the Summerhill name. This year, Totaro’s team produced over 2,600 loaves, which amounts to an incredibly impressive 1,254 kilograms of rich, sweet and boozy fruitcake. Preparation season begins in July when Totaro sources dried fruit such as currants, sultanas and Thompson raisins. These are soaked in brandy for at least eight weeks. Just after Labour Day, the team starts baking the first of their 26 fruitcake batches. After the loaves cool, they’re bundled in brandysoaked cheesecloth and plastic wrap and then left to age for a minimum of eight weeks. “Aging time intensifies fruit flavours and marries the candied and rehydrated dried fruit and nuts together,” Totaro explains. “If you’re cutting through a fruitcake that has not aged long enough, it will crumble.” After aging, the fruitcakes are unwrapped and spritzed with brandy before being packaged for sale during the busy holiday season. Between soaking, aging and spritzing, Totaro goes through over a hundred 1.14-litre bottles of brandy to make the market’s entire production.
THE NUMBERS 2,622 loaves and rounds 1,254 kilograms of cake 118 litres of brandy 178 kilograms of sultana raisins
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Mary Macleod’s Shortbread After moving from Scotland to Toronto, Mary Macleod found herself craving the traditional buttery shortbread of her home country. But she couldn’t find it anywhere in the city. So she started her namesake operation in 1981 – the first shortbread-only bakery in all of Canada. The recipe, which was passed down from Macleod’s grandmother, proved so popular that the bakery at Yonge and Eglinton frequently had lineups out the door. In 1997, Macleod made the decision to move the bakery to its current location in Riverside. While Macleod passed away last year following a six-year retirement from the business, her traditions continue through her daughter-in-law Sharon Macleod, the bakery’s “Chief Cookie Officer.” Sharon Macleod explains their product’s success: “Other cookies don’t taste as buttery. It is a handmade, all butter, all natural cookie.“ Mary Macleod’s Shortbread now retails at stores across the country including Holt Renfrew, Pusateri’s and Whole Foods. Incredibly, all the baking for Mary Macleod’s happens in a tiny 400-square-foot kitchen behind the storefront on Queen East. Production begins to ramp up at the end of the summer when bakery staff doubles to meet the coming holiday demand. The Macleod family pitches in during peak season – Sharon’s daughters will come in to help price tins or dust cookies with icing sugar while her husband (and Mary’s son) Gary assists with deliveries. A fresh batch of dough is made every day, and bakers form each portion into a cookie using a small scoop. “They get very perfect cookies,” Sharon proudly explains. “They’re handmade – they all look the same but they’re slightly different, like a snowflake.” Some of Mary Macleod’s Shortbread varieties are topped with nuts or a chunk of Belgian chocolate before heading to the oven. “By the end of Christmas, everyone’s going a little googly-eyed,” Sharon says.
THE NUMBERS 3 generations of Macleod family members in the kitchen 7,000 cookies baked per day 400 square feet of baking space 200 pounds of butter per day
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ABOVE: Mary Macleod’s was a one-woman bakery when it opened in 1981. The shortbread now retails at Whole Foods and Holt Renfrew
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Serano Bakery The Takas brothers, Christos and Kostas, learned how to make traditional Greek desserts in the late 1970s as teenagers working in a bakery in their hometown of Glanovrisi near the east coast of Greece. The family came to Toronto in the mid-1980s and in 1994, the brothers, along with Christos’s wife Sophie, started Serano Bakery on Pape Avenue near the Danforth. The business has since expanded from a small-scale operation to include retail sales of their Greek treats in Highland Farms and Coppa’s supermarkets – all while keeping Serano a family-owned and operated affair. Christos heads up pastries and cake-baking while his son Niko manages the bakery. Kostas is responsible for cookie and baklava production. He’s also the man behind one of Serano’s most popular holiday offerings – melomakarona – a syrup-soaked cookie spiced with cinnamon and cloves. “We don’t let anyone else make these,” Niko says. “My uncle has the special touch. He brought the recipe from Greece, and he’s been making them since day one.” Demand for this holiday cookie picks up at the beginning of December, when Kostas will produce up to eight batches of 2,000 cookies a day with the help of a forming machine that was brought over from Italy. “Ten to fifteen years ago, they were making them by hand,” says Niko. “It would take them three or four hours just to make one whole tray. Now we can do seven or eight trays in less than ten minutes.” After forming, trays are slotted into a rolling rack and the cookies are baked for 35 minutes. While cooling, Kostas prepares a honey, sugar and water syrup. He then soaks the cookies in the hot syrup for a few minutes before straining and leaving the cookies to rest on a rack while the syrup absorbs. The whole process helps the flavours and spices meld together. A sprinkling of crushed walnuts finishes the batch before they’re sold directly to Serano customers in the bakery or packaged for the supermarket. f
THE NUMBERS Up to 16,000 cookies baked per day 352 kilograms of flour 96 kilograms of walnuts 320 kilograms of honey
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BOTTOM RIGHT: Greektown’s Serano Bakery was opened by brothers Christos (left) and Kostas (middle) Takas in 1994. Christos’s son Niko (right) works as the general manager
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SEASON’S EATINGS We take the stress out of holiday hosting with helpful tips for everything from wine to leftovers
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A Photograph by ###
S THE HOLIDAY season begins, so too do our annual festive rituals of decorating our homes, shopping for gifts, hearing the same Christmas songs on loop everywhere we go and trying in vain to get the tunes out of our heads and, of course, hosting holiday gatherings of friends and family. While opening your home to loved ones brings a lot of joy, it also often brings an equal amount of hosting anxiety. We think planning for the holidays should be fun, so we’ve put together a guide to make hosting merrier and less overwhelming. With a little preparation, you can deep-six the stress and get back to enjoying what the holidays are really all about: ample servings of good food, good booze and good company. In the upcoming pages you’ll find recommendations for the perfect wines to pair with each stage of your meal, as well as expert guides to assembling an enviable cheese platter and roasting a top-notch turkey that'll leave your guests talking until next year's holiday season. We’ve also got ideas for serving vegan and vegetarian guests food they’ll love, in addition to tips for making the most of your leftovers. So settle in, pour yourself a big mug of eggnog (with a generous shot of rum) and start planning. f
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CHEESE, PLEASE Cheese Boutique’s Afrim Pristine knows a thing or two about festive food platters. Here are his tips on creating the perfect cheese display for your celebration First of all, you want variety. The best part of cheese is all the different textures, flavours and styles. Your goal isn’t to complement each cheese, but to make sure they all contrast and are different. Here’s how to build a holiday cheese board, along with my recommendations for excellent Canadian options.
Hard Aged
POUR ONE ON Foodism’s Andrea Yu picks pairings for your holiday feast Appetizers
Sparkling whites are a welcome introduction to a more involved meal since they won’t overwhelm the palate. Plus, there’s no better start to a festive party than a ceremonial corkpopping. Fizzy, acidic whites nicely cut the fatty saltiness of a holiday charcuterie board. Try Jackson-Triggs Niagara Entourage Sparkling Brut ($29.95, LCBO# 234161), a classic dry bubbly with toasty characteristics complemented by a backbone of apple and citrus fruits.
Main
Turkey dinner is, fortunately, a good partner for both red and white wine. Note that the lighter nature of turkey meat doesn’t stand up to harsh tannins so lean towards softer or fruity, ripe reds. Silky smooth pinot noir works wonderfully, as does its country cousin, gamay noir. As for whites, a full-bodied chardonnay complements not only turkey but its traditional stuffing side. Try Jacob’s Creek Reserve Chardonnay ($14.95, LCBO #270017) an extra-dry and buttery white with stone and orchard fruit aromas.
Dessert
If there’s one occasion to bring out the port or sherry, this is it. These sweeter styles pair well with the warm spices of traditional holiday desserts. The nut and honey notes of sherry match the spicy kick of gingerbread as well as fruit pies. In contrast, richer port-style wines are a welcome accompaniment for those crowdpleasing chocolate desserts. Try Union Forté, ($17.95, LCBO #361758) a well-balanced portstyle fortified wine made from Ontario grapes.
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A firm, aged cheese is a must. The Lindsay Bandaged from Mariposa Dairy is a nicely aged goat cheddar. It’s got the texture you are looking for as a sharp, hard cheese and it's lactose free.
Blue
Bleu d’Élizabeth from Quebec is a biodynamic, cow’s milk blue which isn’t very powerful or aggressive. Even non-blue-cheese lovers should enjoy this one. It’s clean, creamy and pairs amazingly well with honeycomb or fig chutney.
Sheep's Milk
Sheep’s milk cheese is tangy and salty. The Bonnechere from Back Forty Artisan Cheese is a rare example from Ontario and the torched rind really opens up the flavour of the saltiness. It also adds semi-soft to the texture mix.
Cow's Milk
Another soft-texture essential is a classic triple crème. Riopelle de l’Isle is a creamy cow’s milk blue that’s rich and pleasantly funky. It’s a very
ALL ABOUT THAT BASTE Colette Grand Café’s executive chef Jennifer Dewasha tells us how to roast the perfect turkey Start at the source
Buying a properly raised turkey will make a big difference to the overall flavour. Order your bird from a butcher or farmers’ market about a month before your feast. Ask where the turkey is from and if it will be fresh at pickup time.
Take the time to brine
I follow a process of brining, drying and trussing. If you’re not familiar with trussing, ask your butcher to do the turkey tying for you. For brining, find a recipe that includes salt, honey, garlic and spices like cinnamon, bay leaf, allspice and peppercorns. After you brine the turkey, let it air dry, uncovered in the fridge for two days. Drying out the skin will help you get that beautiful golden-brown colour. different texture from the others, but the stinky cheese lovers will adore this one.
Gouda
And, lastly, let’s finish with a gouda-style cheese. Glengarry Fine Cheese's Lankaaster from Ontario is a semi-firm, fruity, nutty cow’s milk cheese and is always a crowd favourite. Photography: Shutterstock
Plus ...
◆◆ Fresh apple because the acid of crisp
varieties cleans up rich flavours in cheese. ◆◆ A sweet component such as dried fruit or a favourite prepared chutney. ◆◆ Water-based fruits such as fresh pear or figs. ◆◆ A neutral cracker or baguette (bonus points awarded if they are gluten-free.)
THE ACID OF CRISP APPLE CLEANS UP THE FLAVOURS OF FATTY CHEESE
Roast right
Bring the turkey out of the fridge an hour before you plan on roasting to let it come up to room temperature. Coat the skin with a layer of room-temperature butter before placing it in the oven. Start by cooking with the oven at 300°F, and then increase the temperature to 400°F for the last 45 minutes to brown and crisp the skin. Check the turkey every 10 minutes at this high heat to prevent over-browning.
Baste like you mean it
Remember the butter coating you put on the turkey before it went into the oven? Grab a large spoon and pour that bubbly butter back over the turkey as it roasts. Do this every half hour at low temperature, but more frequently during the last 45 minutes at the higher heat.
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WASTE NOT WANT NOT Give your holiday food surplus a second life with these leftover recipe ideas Freeze it for later
Eating the same leftovers for several days after your holiday dinner can get monotonous pretty quickly. Consider packing up the food into air-tight containers and freezing it instead. Thaw out your leftovers in a few weeks when you have a taste for turkey again.
Boil turkey remains into stock
MEATLESSLY MERRY Find inspiration for plantbased celebrations at these vegan and vegetarian shops around the city YamChops
Look beyond the Tofurkey to YamChops’s plant-based protein offerings including a chicken schnitzel, hickory barbecue ribs and an egg-less egg salad. Or order the PlantPowered Christmas Dinner to take care of the entire package. 705 College St.
Through Being Cool
Serve a “cheeze" – a dairy-free alternative made with cultured, raw cashew and coconut oil plus herbs and spices – as a vegan-friendly appetizer. At Through Being Cool, find locally made cheeses from Ladyship Vegan including a special holiday “cheezeboard” with all the accompaniments. 1277 Bloor St. W.
Apiecalypse Now
As well as pizza slices, Apiecalypse Now whips up a mean vegan shortbread for the holiday season. Dairy-free and made with local organic flour, they come in festive flavours like white chocolate candy cane and pistachio. 735 Bloor St. W.
With over 150 offerings made in a local production facility this is the city's biggest plant-based purveyor. The Plant YYZ has a few holiday tricks up its sleeve, including a white bean veggie loaf and stuffing made with local cranberries. 2745 Dundas St. W.
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Make homemade croutons from bread
Whether the bread is a leftover loaf from the table spread or excess from baking the stuffing, you can turn the surplus into homemade croutons. Mix small pieces of bread with olive oil, salt, pepper, pressed garlic and your choice of herbs. Bake until the bread pieces are golden and then add them to your soups and salads.
Turn cranberry sauce into a sweet pie
Most people would agree that cranberry sauce is an essential component of a holiday feast, but the leftover sauce tends to end up in the forgotten condiments corner of the fridge. Try using your remaining cranberry sauce as a pie filling — you can add some sugar if it’s not sweet enough on its own.
Fry up some potato pancakes
The creamy glory of mashed potatoes turns to dry mush when you leave them in the fridge overnight. Turn your day-old mash into a postholiday breakfast by mixing it with some flour and eggs. Use a cookie dough disher to divide the mixture into patties and then fry them until they’re crispy and brown.
Bake a cottage pie
Cottage pie is said to have been created as a way to use up the leftovers from traditional Sunday roasts, so it's also a no-brainer solution for revamping the holiday-meal surplus. Mix turkey pieces with your remaining gravy, stuffing and veggies. Spread leftover mashed potatoes over the mixture and bake until the filling bubbles and the top starts to brown.
Photography: Shutterstock
The Plant YYZ
LOOK BEYOND TOFURKEY FOR PLANTBASED PROTEIN OFFERINGS
Get more mileage out of your holiday bird by cooking the carcass down to make a stock. Fill a large pot with enough water to cover the bones by a few inches. Bring it to a boil, then reduce the heat and let it simmer for a few hours. Pour the finished liquid through a finemesh strainer and you’ve got a rich turkey stock base for soups, sauces and risottos.
COCKTAIL HOUR We’ve scoured Toronto’s bar scene for the best winter libations – here are some of our favourites
SLAYBELLS Colette Grand Café; 550 Wellington St. W. colettetoronto.com
INGREDIENTS ◆◆ 1 oz Woodford Reserve bourbon ◆◆ ¾ oz Capo Capo ◆◆ ¾ Domaine du Canton ◆◆ ½ oz fresh lemon juice ◆◆ Dash of pear bitters
Add all ingredients to a Boston shaker. Shake vigorously for 30 seconds, to add texture and viscosity. Double strain into a Spanish copita glass.
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CAFÉ CON LECHE Leña; 176 Yonge St. lenarestaurante.com
IN G R ED IEN TS ◆◆ 1 oz rum ◆◆ 1 oz espresso ◆◆ ½ oz Cointreau ◆◆ ½ oz Pedro Ximenez sherry ◆◆ Whipped cream and coffee beans
for garnish
Add all ingredients to a shaker tin (ensure the tin doesn’t get too hot from the espresso). Quickly shake and swirl the ingredients until combined. Pour into a martini glass. Garnish with whipped cream and coffee beans if desired.
EL BOMBON HOT Baro; 485 King St. W. barotoronto.com
INGREDIENTS ◆◆ 1½ oz Mount Gay black barrel rum ◆◆ 1 oz espresso or drip coffee ◆◆ 1½ oz chocolate milk ◆◆ ½ oz cream ◆◆ 10 drops Bittermens mole bitters ◆◆ Torched cinnamon for garnish
Combine all ingredients except rum in a pot and heat on the stove until the mixture starts to simmer. Remove from heat. Pour rum into a Mason jar then add hot liquid to the jar. Stir and garnish with a stick of torched cinnamon.
Photography: Leña Cindy La Photograph byby ###
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NUTTY CAPER Victor Restaurant; 30 Mercer St. victorrestaurant.com
IN G R ED IEN TS ◆◆ Orange wedge ◆◆ 1 oz Bulleit bourbon ◆◆ ¾ oz Frangelico ◆◆ ¾ oz Bailey’s ◆◆ 4 oz hot cocoa (made with milk) ◆◆ Dehydrated candied orange slice
for garnish
Lightly muddle one orange wedge. Shake all ingredients over ice. Strain into a chilled rocks glass. Serve straight up. Garnish with a dehydrated candied orange slice.
POM & PORT MARTINI Azure Restaurant; 225 Front St. W. azurerestaurant.ca
INGREDIENTS ◆◆ 1 oz Taylor Fladgate port ◆◆ 1½ oz Absolut Mandrin vodka ◆◆ 1½ oz pomegranate juice ◆◆ ½ oz simple syrup ◆◆ 1 bar spoon of lemon juice ◆◆ Pomegranate seeds and lemon
wheel for garnish
Add Taylor Fladgate port, Absolut Mandrin vodka, pomegranate juice, simple syrup and lemon juice to a cocktail shaker. Shake with ice and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and the lemon wheel and enjoy.
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WINCHESTER TODDY Death & Taxes; 1154 Queen St. W. donnellygroup.ca/death-and-taxes
ING REDIENTS ◆◆ 2 oz The Glenlivet Founder’s
Reserve single malt whisky ◆◆ 2 oz strong chamomile tea ◆◆ 1/2 oz honey ◆◆ 3 dashes Bittermens Tiki Bitters ◆◆ Lemon zest
Stir all ingredients together in a cocktail mixing glass at room temperature. Pour in hot, strong chamomile tea and mix well. Express oils from lemon zest on top of cocktail and discard the lemon zest. Can also be served chilled with cold-brewed tea.
Photograph by ###
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E S CA P I S M
ESCAPISM
BELOW: As the Caribbean recovers from a devastating hurricane season, local tourism representatives are reminding travellers that many islands were not affected by the storms and tourism can help support the recovery of those that were. With that in mind, we’re sharing some of our favourite winter sun destinations (p.64)
54 FRIENDLY PHILLY 61 CHECKLIST 64 TROPIC LIKE IT’S HOT 70 INSIDER 72 JUST LANDED 73 REAR VIEW
Photography: Shutterstock
W
elcome to a sneak peek of escapism, a new, free travel magazine from the team behind foodism coming in early 2018. To tide you over until our first issue hits the streets, follow @escapismto on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram for daily travel inspiration and updates on when you’ll be able to get your hands on a copy. e
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FRIENDLY PHILLY For two-and-a-half centuries Philadelphia has been one of America’s most important cities; Karolyne Ellacott finds out what’s good these days 54
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T
he worst thing about Philly is that it’s not New York; the best thing about Philly is that it sure isn’t New York. Despite being almost cruelly easy to get to, Pennsylvania’s largest city flies under the radar for Torontonians due to its proximity to Manhattan. However, Philadelphia is an ideal refuge for those of us seeking a leisurely weekend away, with plenty of offerings for avid foodies and culture vultures alike. An hour-long flight and a brief taxi ride later, and visitors are in the heart of this highly walkable city (a grid street pattern always helps). With its history as the first capital of the United Beaux-Arts is an States, the city is ornate architectural style that was steeped in eyepopular in the catching architecture United States from the late 19th century – from its Georgianthrough to the 1930s. style row houses in a plethora of hues to City Hall’s impressive Beaux-Arts lines. It possesses a certain grandeur that still remains approachable and contrasts nicely with the friendly nature of its citizens.
Day 1: Reading Market Terminal, Historical Philly, Zahav and Talula’s Garden Morning: It’s basically unheard of to visit Philly without setting foot in Reading Terminal
GETTING THERE Air Canada has daily nonstop flights to Philadelphia from Pearson International Airport. aircanada.com Porter offers daily trips that typically involve a stopover in Boston. flyporter.com
WHERE TO STAY
Photography: Shutterstock
ABOVE: Packed with diverse eateries and food vendors, Reading Terminal Market is an essential stop in any Philadelphia itinerary
Thanks to its stellar location, Sonesta Philadelphia Hotel is an ideal basecamp for a weekend away. The 445-room hotel offers contemporary rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows. Warm weather visitors can take advantage of the rooftop pool while a 24-hour fitness centre is a real bonus after all the eating that’s bound to happen.
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Market. (That’s “RED-ing,” not what you do with a book.) This indoor market, built in 1893, has a block of eateries and food vendors selling everything from farm-fresh veg to toothsome hunks of fudge. Must-eats include Dinic’s roast pork sandwich – loaded up with gooey provolone and garlicky broccoli rabe – and the melt-inyour-mouth pastrami Reuben at neighbouring Herschel’s East Side Deli. For dessert go Amish. Beiler’s is definitely worth any length of wait in their snaking line. Their yeast-risen doughnuts are pillowy perfection. On Saturdays, they can plow through a cool 8,000 rounds in flavours like maple bacon and pumpkin spice. The entire Amish portion is closed on Sundays, so plan accordingly.
Afternoon: Following an extensive chow-down in the market, head out for a walk. Since Chinatown is on the way to the next stop, anyone with a corner of stomach left to fill could pop into Xi’an Sizzling Woks. This nofrills joint has drawn Chinatown’s plenty of press for its entrance is marked spicy beef sandwich. by the China Gate, a 40-foot structure Arguably the oldest partly built by bun-plus-filling artisans from offering in the world, Philadelphia’s sister city, Tianjin. the Chinese burger sees cumin-y hunks of beef hugged by flat, clay baked discs of bread. Super cheap and tasty. The rest of the afternoon should scratch the itch of history buffs. Found in the Independence National Historical Park (a very American-sounding mouthful),
BEILER’S IS DEFINITELY WORTH ANY LENGTH OF WAIT IN THEIR SNAKING LINE 56
the Liberty Bell is a big ole symbol of independence. Thanks to Philly’s previous life as the capital, the iconic bell remains in its birthplace; it first rang out on July 8, 1776, announcing to the world that the Declaration of Independence was about to be read for the very first time. Continuing the whole American history thing, the Betsy Ross House is up next on the mini-tour. It is here that Ross, who cut her teeth as a highly skilled upholsterer, sewed the first American flag. While the Stars and Stripes was the design of George Washington, Ross did put her stamp on it. When Washington and two other men brought her the original sketch in 1776, the flag featured six-pointed stars. Ross convinced them that five-pointers would be
an improvement. They listened. Next, if you’re still on that history train, the brand new Museum of the American Revolution is a decent walk away. Located in Old Town Philly, it digs deep into the colonial revolt that originated in 1765. The surrounding area is ideal for a casual mosey, offering plenty of charm and a good look at those picturesque row houses.
Evening: Heard of a little cookbook called Zahav? Chef Michael Solomonov opened his modern Israeli restaurant by the same name back in 2008 and it’s been drawing accolades ever since. While grabbing a reservation isn’t easy, getting a seat at the bar is highly doable. A daily queue starts
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PARC BRASSERIE IS WORTH IT FOR THE MADCAP ATMOSPHERE ALONE for roaming. Once you have an appetite, Parc Brasserie is worth it for the madcap atmosphere alone. Bistro faves such as eggs en cocotte with caviar, a wedge of quiche Lorraine and croque madame are offered. Add a mimosa and grand surroundings and this is people watching at its finest.
ABOVE: Talula’s Garden has been serving up seasonal, farm-to-table cuisine since long before the movement became popular
Photography: Marissa Evans
at 4:45 p.m., with diners ushered in at 5 p.m. sharp for a pre-dinner bite. Must-eats include the gossamer-like hummus, which arrives with their famed oven-baked laffa, and the kibbe naya, raw lamb with bulgur. The cocktail menu is innovative (an Israeli salad martini?!) and the service highly personable. You’ll leave feeling giddy. After so much dining, taking a break before a late dinner is your best bet. Talula’s Garden has been doing its farm-to-table thing since 2011 and Laffa is a soft, is always packed Middle Eastern – especially during flatbread with a chewier texture the warmer months than a pita. They’re when that namesake tradtionally made in garden is peacocking. a clay oven called a Noted restaurateurs tabun.
Aimee Olexy and Stephen Starr oversee a menu that shifts shape depending on what’s in season. Pasta options might include a sour cream ravioli with roasted mushrooms from Kennett Square, a region known as the ‘shroom capital of the globe. Pair with wine from their list that focuses on biodynamic and organic picks.
Day 2: Rittenhouse Square, Parc Brasserie, Museum crawl, Philly Cheesesteak, Fishtown and Vedge
Morning: Eschew that hotel coffee and do your weary head right with an Americano over at La Colombe. With java in hand, a pre-brunch amble is far more manageable, and the area surrounding Rittenhouse Square is made
Afternoon: With a long list of museums, both artsy and historical, it’s hard to pinpoint which to visit. The Philadelphia Museum of Art is a no-brainer, marrying high and pop culture thanks to its iconic Rocky steps. Nearby, the Barnes Foundation houses an incredible collection of impressionist, post-impressionist and early modern art. Paintings by the likes of Renoir, Cézanne and Picasso are juxtaposed with familiar household objects, as per collector Dr. Albert C. Barnes’s careful compositions. But you needn’t mini-tour a museum to experience art; the city of brotherly love has an alter ego as the “City of Murals.” Over 3,800 public works of art decorate building facades all over town, adding a natural liveliness to the cityscape. After racking up plenty of steps, more grub is required. Countless eateries turn out their version of a little number called the Philly cheesesteak. This dish that put the city on the global food map can be sampled at two battling sandwich shops – inventor of the cheesesteak Pat’s versus neighbouring Geno’s – or at some less touristy jewels. Steve’s Prince of Steaks, a go-to for 30 years, has a loyal following. Their slender iterations arrive on soft hoagie rolls with paper-thin slices of steak, so you don’t
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ABOVE: The mural Legendary pays tribute to Philly’s The Roots, Grammy winners and the house band on Late Night with Jimmy Fallon
emerge feeling like you’ve run a marathon. Pro tip: act like a local and ask for “one whiz with” (with Cheez Whiz and fried onions) or “one provolone without,” if
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Evening: It may come as a surprise that such a meaty city is also home to one of American’s top vegan restaurants. Vedge is the work of pioneering chefs Richard Landau and Kate Jacoby, who spin out plant-based fare that won’t ostracize meat eaters. The interior of the restaurant will conjure up your fave lipstick bohemian’s living space.
Dishes like the stuffed avocado in a rice cracker shell are made for sharing. The Reuben is turned on its head in their woodroasted carrot dish; a superbly grilled half carrot is paired with a white bean puree, pumpernickel toast and a carrot kraut. Cocktails are just as innovative; the Life of Poblano matches tequila with Aperol, rhubarb and its namesake chili. For post-dinner merriment best pop over to the Gaybourhood where the Tavern on Carmac’s nightly entertainment revolves around a grand piano and truly showcases Philly’s world-famous bonhomie. The next time the flashier members of America’s family tree come up as possible destinations consider their more walkable, amiable sibling. Philadelphia is the city of brotherly love, so you’ll get generous servings of culture and history to go with the delicious food and drink. e
Photography: R. Kennedy for Visit Philadelphia™
PRO TIP: ACT LIKE A LOCAL AND ASK FOR “ONE WHIZ WITH”
you’d like provolone, but no onions. For those seeking to stray from the well-trodden tourist path, Fishtown is a burgeoning nabe, with shopping gems like Two Percent to Glory offering thrifty finds in a cool-girl living room setting. Next door, Vestige has a stellar jumpsuit collection plus neat-o jewellery that Iris Apfel would happily wear. There’s also the quirky Pizza Brain, a Guinness-stamped pizzeria with the most by-the-slice memorabilia in the world.
Available at your local LCBO. Please enjoy responsibly. LCBO # 487710 ONLY $12.95
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Each Clase Azul piece, hand-made and hand-painted is literally touched by the human spirit, inspired by traditional Mexican values.
Imported exclusively by Tre Amici Imports treamiciwines.com, email: pourpassion@treamiciwines.com, Office #: 416.743.8732
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CHECKLIST Give the avid traveller on your list something they’ll actually use with the help of this trip-ready holiday gift guide
LEAN BACK MEC INTERCITY DAYPACK, $85 The perfect size for a day of exploring, this sleek backpack features a lightly padded front panel and base to protect your essentials. A polyurethane coating makes it water-resistant, while padded shoulder straps and a foam back panel make for a comfy fit. mec.ca
Photography: Ryan Faist
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1 THERM-A-REST COMPRESSIBLE SMALL PILLOW, $22: Sleep comfortably wherever you find yourself with this soft travel pillow. A built-in pocket with a drawcord makes it easy to pack when not in use. mec.ca
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2 PLATYPUS SOFTBOTTLE, $8.75: Stay hydrated on the go with this durable softbottle that’s 80% lighter than a standard water bottle. Freestanding when full, it collapses as you drink for easy packing. mec.ca
3 LAUNDRESS TRAVEL PACK, $76: Refresh your clothes on the road with this pouch of natural, cruelty-free laundry products. It includes a travel-size stain-remover, delicate wash, fabric deodorizer and wrinkle
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Made using eight recycled plastic bottles, this soft mat features silicone nubs on one side that allow you to practise yoga on the floor or carpet without slipping.
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Photography: Ryan Faist
remover, plus a laundry bag. petalandpost.com 4 SWISSGEAR GETAWAY TOILETRY BAG, $20: This sturdy toiletry bag features a front zip pocket and large main pocket for organizing your grooming essentials. A side grab
handle makes for no-fuss transport. thebay.com 5 SAJE TRAVEL SAFE ONTHE-GO CONVENIENCE KIT, $44.95: Ease travel stress with this kit filled with mists, lotions and roll-on remedies that energize and soothe your
body and mind. saje.ca 6 ALTIUS EDGE FERMAT WALLET, $130: Featuring built-in RFID protective lining, this handsome leather wallet keeps your credit card data safe. Dedicated slots hold mini, micro and standard SD
cards for your electronic devices. swissarmy.ca 7 MANDUKA YOGITOES MAT TOWEL, $70: Keep up with your yoga practice with this lightweight mat towel. Made from 50% recycled-fibre, sweatabsorbing material. mec.ca
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TROPIC LIKE IT’S HOT We plan your wintertime getaways to five different warmweather destinations with something for all types of travellers, from the beach bum to the 5-star fanatic
GETTING THERE Aruba is around an easy five-hour flight from Toronto. WestJet, Air Canada and Sunwing all offer direct flights to Aruba’s Queen Beatrix International Airport. westjet.com; aircanada.com; sunwing.ca
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BEACH BUM
ARUBA
Do
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Aruba’s beaches, with sugary white sand and glistening turquoise waters, are about as picturesque as vacation scenes get. Instead of the usual palms, the island’s enchanting divi-divi trees dot the oceanside shores. Head to bustling Palm Beach if you like to be in the heart of the action. Lined with resorts and restaurants, it’s a prime location for just about any beach activity, from sailing to snorkeling. For a more laid-back vibe, try nearby Eagle Beach, a wide white sand beach that’s often ranked among the world’s most beautiful; or Arashi Beach, another lovely stretch of sand found near the island’s northwest tip. For surfing, there’s no better spot than Dos Playa, on Aruba’s east coast.
For a worthwhile splurge, Bucuti & Tara Beach Resort is one of the best bets on the island. This adult-only property will win you over with its beautiful contemporary aesthetic and intimate vibe. Set on a quiet stretch of Eagle Beach, Bucuti & Tara scores big with its swish guest rooms and amenities, as well as its commitment to eco-friendly practices. Alternatively, Beach House Aruba is a more affordable option that offers plenty of low-key charm. A garden filled with a quirky assortment of beach shells, artsy lawn ornaments and plant-life surrounds this group of colourful huts. It’s not right on the beach, but there’s a little patch of sand across the street. bucuti.com; beachhousearuba.com
Aruba’s culturally diverse population and tourism-based economy fuel a robust international dining scene. While there is no shortage of restaurants specializing in French, Dutch and Chinese cuisines, traditional Aruban fare can be somewhat hard to find. The Old Cunucu House is an excellent spot for classic dishes like keshi yena, a mix of chicken or minced meat, raisins, olives and other veggies baked in a hollowed-out cheese rind. For a fine-dining experience, try the Kitchen Table by White, which offers multi-course set dinners of contemporary Caribbean cuisine at a communal table, wrapped around a dazzling open kitchen. theoldcunucuhouse.com; thekitchentablebywhite.com
Photography: Shutterstock
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GETTING THERE HEAT ADDICT
It’s just over a five-hour flight from Toronto to Barbados’s main airport, Grantley Adams International Airport. Air Canada offers direct flights daily. aircanada.com
BARBADOS
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The Barbados coastline has some of the most stunning beaches in the eastern Caribbean with everything from rocky to fine sand. When you’re finished sunning, the island offers plenty of outdoorsy attractions, which are a short drive away (drivebarbados.com rents cars and chauffeured services are available through transportboard.com). Harrison’s cave is a must visit – an underground limestone cavern first discovered in the late 1700s. The northern parish of St. Lucy features a seaside animal flower cave with walls covered with brightly coloured natural formations. harrisonscave.com
For the best beachside stays, stick to the west side of the island where the sands are fine and the waters are a calm, clear blue. Tourists flock to resorts in Speightstown and Bridgetown, both conveniently off the main highways and near local towns. Turtle Beach operates a stunning all-inclusive resort, and the Hilton Barbados is another great option for those seeking a pampered experience. Barbados is an island with plenty of access to local seafood and produce, so look up properties on Airbnb for a homestay experience with gorgeous views of the sea. eleganthotels.com/turtle-beach; airbnb.ca
From Speightstown to Miami Beach, there’s plenty of street food on this tiny island. Head to Oitsins Bay Gardens at night for an authentic fish fry on the weekends. Here, a range of vendors each serve up whole fish grilled with a variety of spices, fritters and plenty of other street snacks. Bridgetown and Diamond Valley are filled with cutter spots – huts where you can get fried fish sandwiches made from the local catch. For a refined, sit-down experience with stellar views, check out Cin Cin by the Sea. The best brunch on the island is at Champer’s, another seaside spot in Bridgetown. cincinbythesea.com; champersrestaurant.com
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CULTURE VULTURE
GUADALAJARA
Do
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The largest city in the state of Jalisco is quickly becoming a hotspot for travellers seeking a mix of distinctive local culture and authentic yet progressive Mexican cuisine. It helps that the city is merely an hour away from some of the country’s finest tequila and mezcal producers.
Guadalajara’s culinary scene stretches from rustic street food to progressive Mexican. Start by spending a few hours at the Mercado Libertad where you can get acquainted with Mexico’s seasonal fruits, from a variety of mangos to lush passion fruit and mamey. Then walk through the maze to find candy shops, taco popups and even a tamale stand or two. Tlaquepaque’s downtown square is a must, the promenade is home to a variety of newwave eateries and an old-school market, offering the best of home cooking and a taste of where Mexico’s cuisine is heading. For late-night grub and cool libations, head to the hip Providencia district.
Stay Punto Sao Paulo is a hip part of the city, ideal for first-timers. The NH Collection Guadalajara Providencia hotel is located in the centre of the neighbourhood’s restaurant row, with access to dozens of nouveau eateries and craft beer bars. Culture addicts love staying in the Mexicaltzingo district, which is steps away from countless heritage monuments, including the Plaza de Armas museum. nh-collection.com
Photography: Shutterstock
GETTING THERE
Photograph by ###
There are no direct flights from Toronto’s Pearson airport to Guadalajara International Airport, but Air Canada offers flights with a stop in Houston. Flights with Aeromexico include a stop in Mexico City. aircanada.com; world.aeromexico.com
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GETTING THERE
OUTDOOR JUNKIE
OCHO RIOS
Ocho Rios is roughly a two-hour drive north from Kingston or along the coast from Montego Bay. WestJet and Air Canada offer nonstop flights to Kingston and Montego Bay. As well, Air Transat and Sunwing have direct flights to Montego Bay. westjet.com; aircanada.com; sunwing.ca; airtransat.com
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Yes, the beaches are stunning, but Ocho Rios is also known as a nature lover’s paradise, with dozens of outdoor-themed activities spattered around the thriving rainforest. See Dunn’s River Falls, the island’s most famous terraced waterfall, stretching 1,000 feet with steps that spill into warm-water lagoons. Or head into the rainforest for a zip line adventure that glides you through butterfly and hummingbird gardens. If you feel like having someone else handle the details, G Adventures offers an excellent 10-day tour of Jamaica that includes a stop in Ocho Rios. dunnsriverfallsja.com; gadventures.com
There are plenty of resorts in Ocho Rios (mostly all-inclusive) with a range of options from 3-star budget to 5-star luxury for those who want fine dining and a pampered spa experience. For something romantic with seaside views, stay in the tree-top room or private villas at Hermosa Cove Villa Hotel. The cozy compound has it all from nature trails to a private beach, and one of the best local restaurants. There isn’t a more luxe place to stay than Moon Palace. For short or long stays, the resort offers top food and drink experiences. Its two nightclubs are where the locals go to party. hermosacove.com; moonpalace.com/jamaica
If you’re looking to eat outdoors, head to Hermosa Cove, where Christopher’s offers an authentic Jamaican barbecue experience, with one of the island’s top chefs, Conroy Arnold, in the kitchen. Arnold has spent time cooking at Nobu in New York and brings a touch of Japanese flair to his cooking. The locals lunch at Miss T’s Kitchen, where the goat curry, ackee and saltfish are some of the best examples of their type on the island. For a farm-to-table experience, reserve seats at Stush in the Bush, which offers some of the island’s best organic vegetarian dishes. christophersjamaica.com; misstskitchen.com
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GETTING THERE It’s around a five-hour flight from Toronto to St. Lucia’s main airport, Hewanorra International Airport. WestJet, Air Canada and Sunwing all offer nonstop flights. westjet.com; aircanada.com; sunwing.ca
LUXURY TRAVELLER
ST. LUCIA
Photography: Shutterstock
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Go for a relaxing stroll through the beautiful Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens, a sixacre nature preserve with vibrant gardens of ixora, heliconia and hibiscus. A path winds through the gardens and ends at a 17-metre waterfall, backed by a rock face with striking natural colours. Fond Doux Holiday Plantation dates back over 250 years and still produces cocoa, bananas and coconut. Tours cover the cocoa harvesting process, introduce visitors to the plants cultivated on the property and end with a hike to a lookout point for jaw-dropping views of Petit Piton and Sugar Beach. diamondstlucia.com; fonddouxestate.com
In St. Lucia, many guest rooms have walls on three sides, but the fourth is left open for dramatic, uninterrupted views of the ocean, rainforest and sometimes the island’s Piton mountains. Ladera Resort was the first property on the island to introduce this idea, with the open wall allowing in mountain breezes and abundant nature sounds to complement the resort’s rusticchic aesthetic. Anse Chastanet Resort is a swish beachfront option that makes use of this concept in some rooms. It is also the only property in St. Lucia with views of both the Petit and Gros Piton mountains. ladera.com; ansechastanet.com
For over 50 years, the Coal Pot Restaurant has been a local favourite, partly for the lovely views of the Vigie Marina waterfront in Castries. Chalkboard menus display an enticing selection of French-Creole fare, from soups like callaloo (a type of leafy green veg) to local fish mains like barracuda, lobster and dorado. Set on a working cocoa estate, Boucan by Hotel Chocolat’s restaurant offers a creative fine dining experience, with cocoa in almost every dish. The chocolate-infused cocktails made with cacao pulp and vodka are a highlight, as are the views of Petit Piton. hotelchocolat.com
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THE INSIDER
In the midst of Pittsburgh’s tech boom, Andrea Yu discovers an innovative food and drink industry
W
ith a population of just over 300,000, Pittsburgh’s personality wavers between small city and big town. Skyscrapers in its Central Business District rival those of Toronto or New York City but span just a few short blocks. Without the fierce competition and aggressive real estate markets of larger metropolises, industries in Pittsburgh have room to experiment and grow. That includes a tech boom with names like Google, Facebook, Uber and Apple opening offices here in recent years. These big names are given credit, in part, for the rise of Pittsburgh’s dining scene. Much like the early transformative days for Toronto’s Queen West or Brooklyn’s Williamsburg, the evolution of Pittsburgh’s Strip District from produce warehouses to hipster hubs began just a
PITTSBURGH ◆◆ Population: 303,000 ◆◆ Area: 151 sq. km ◆◆ Also known for: Steel
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few years ago. Now is a great time to visit the city and experience its food and drink offerings ahead of the coming rush. Accommodations in the Strip are slim so make Pittsburgh’s downtown core your home base. From there, you’re within walking distance of the Andy Warhol Museum, a collection of theatres and Market Square, a pedestrian-friendly plaza. Request a north-facing room at the Renaissance Hotel (formerly a World War II veterans’ hospital, trade school and nightclub) and enjoy postcard-perfect views of the Allegheny River, the city’s iconic Three Sisters bridges and PNC Park, home of the Pittsburgh Pirates. The scene is equally compelling at night when the bridges are illuminated. e renaissancepittsburghpa.com
GETTING THERE Air Canada flies directly from Toronto Pearson to Pittsburgh multiple times a day and the flight is a swift 65 minutes. Those travelling by car can make the drive in just over five hours. aircanada.com
SMALLMAN GALLEY A food incubator in the hip Strip District, Smallman Galley is fostering Pittsburgh’s burgeoning restaurant scene. The concept hosts four up-andcoming chefs for 18-month stints in individual kitchens where they have an opportunity to develop business plans, test menus and plan a budget before taking the leap. During our visit, we sampled an airy focaccia-like pan pizza from Iron Born and a deconstructed s’more from Brunoise, which is run by chef Ryan Peters. smallmangalley.org
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WHITFIELD The establishment of hip hotel chains is an indicator of the area’s ongoing gentrification. In 2015, the Ace Hotel chain opened in a former YMCA building in Pittsburgh’s diverse East Liberty neighbourhood. At its restaurant, Whitfield, retirees and neighbourhood families are welcomed alongside the usual suspects for an Ace. Cocktails are perfectly executed while the butcher’s plate, including a standout “duck jam” spread, is a worthwhile complement. whitfieldpgh.com
‘BURGH BITS AND BITES FOOD TOUR These walking tours weave together stories of the city’s history with its culinary traditions. The tours make about six stops at diverse operations like delis, markets and restaurants, with food samples at most. Our Strip District guide showed us photographs of the fruit stand her grandparents once operated in the neighbourhood a century ago. burghfoodtour.com
BAR MARCO
Photography: Galley by Stone Swiess; Whitfield by Alyssa Beers
This Italian eatery is a pioneer on several fronts. Opened in 2012, it helped spark the Strip’s cultural evolution. Two years later, Bar Marco was one of the first restaurants in the city to abolish tipping in favour of paying its staff a fixed salary. They focus on local offerings and are big proponents of the 100-mile concept. That means sourcing items like fresh pork for the perfectly roasted loin from a local CSA and charcuterie from Parma Sausage, just a few storefronts west of the restaurant. To accompany your meal, Bar Marco is a proud supporter of the natural wine movement, pouring juice (by the glass or bottle) made using natural fermentation techniques in California, Italy and beyond. barmarcopgh.com
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JUST LANDED
A milestone in the tropics and a new option for Canadian flyers – this is what’s new in travel
BUNGALOW BASH French Polynesia is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its beloved overwater bungalows. These traditional grass huts suspended over the ocean on stilts have become synonymous with luxurious vacations. This style of accommodation was developed in the 1960s by a team of American hoteliers to give guests easier access to the lagoon in an area without beaches. They are now found in sunny destinations around the world, from the Maldives to Malaysia.
SWOOP, THERE IT IS!
A campaign has begun to raise funds for the restoration of Paris’s Notre-Dame Cathedral. Centuries of pollution and weather erosion have taken a toll on the famed building. The French state, which owns the building, is only able to finance a portion of the estimated €150 million renovation costs, so the Church of Paris has set up a private donation fund to make up the difference.
WestJet has revealed the name and logo for its new ultra-low-cost airline, Swoop, which is set to debut in 2018. Like other budget airlines, Swoop will offer cheaper tickets by charging for extra services. All luggage, in-flight entertainment and snacks will be offered for surcharges. Fares should be around 40 per cent lower than major Canadian carriers. Advanced ticket sales are planned to begin early in 2018.
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Photography: Shutterstock
DAME-SEL IN DISTRESS
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REAR VIEW
MAJOR MARKET Christmas markets are a tradition across much of Europe. Many North American cities have begun hosting their own versions in recent years, but few capture the magic of the holiday season quite like the ones you’ll find in Germany. Cologne’s main Christmas market is especially picturesque, with more than 150 wooden vendor booths set against the backdrop of the city’s spectacular gothic cathedral. The market’s 25-metre-tall Christmas tree is illuminated with over 50,000 LED lights. Browse stalls filled with arts and crafts like hand-carved nativity scenes and glass-blown ornaments.
Photography: Shutterstock
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BACON + CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES? Meet your perfect holiday truffle. ONTARIO BACON CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE TRUFFLES Yield: 20-24 pieces Prep: 25 minutes Cook time: 15 minutes
COOKING INSTRUCTIONS
1 Crush two dozen cookies into crumbs into a mixing bowl.
5 Dip balls into chocolate with a fork, allowing excess chocolate to drip off. 6 Place truffles back onto cookie sheet and immediately sprinkle with a generous pinch of chopped bacon. Once all truffles have been coated, place in fridge to allow chocolate to set. Store truffles refrigerated in an airtight container.
sca le
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2 Add 6 slices of finely chopped bacon and cream cheese. Mix 20-24 chocolate chip cookies together until a ball of cookie (homemade or store-bought) dough forms. If dough feels dry, 4 oz cream cheese, room temperature add 1 Tbsp of cream cheese until desired consistency is achieved. 1 Tbsp coconut oil 3 Roll into 2-inch balls. Place rolled 8 slices Ontario bacon, cooked, cookie balls onto a parchment drained, finely chopped paper-lined cookie sheet and place 2 cups chocolate chips, melted in the freezer for 15 minutes. INGREDIENTS
4 While cookie balls are freezing, place chocolate chips and coconut oil in a microwave-safe dish. Microwave in 30-second intervals, stirring between, until creamy and lump free.
ess *Deliciousn
to
#PorkMakesItPerfect
— PART 3 —
EXCESS “THE HOLIDAY SEASON HASN’T QUITE STARTED WITHOUT A REQUISITE VISIT TO THE CHRISTMAS MARKET” THE NOSTALGIST, 091
082 BOTTLE SERVICE | 091 THE NOSTALGIST | 093 THE DIGEST 094 THE SELECTOR | 098 DECONSTRUCT
— HISTORY —
EFFORTLESS FESTIVE FEASTS A FOODISM GUIDE
INSPIRING HOLIDAY FAMILY TRADITIONS Originally a small Corso Italia neighbourhood grocer, Pusateri’s has become Toronto’s leading food emporium and the city’s go-to for gourmet gifts and holiday entertaining
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OR DECADES, PUSATERI’S has been a destination for Toronto’s most discerning food enthusiasts. The story of this fine grocer can be traced back to a small family-operated fresh market on St. Clair Avenue West. The original store opened in 1963.
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There, 12-year-old Cosimo Pusateri worked as a shopkeeper, becoming the charismatic English-speaking conduit for his Sicilian parents who only spoke Italian. He helped establish Pusateri’s as a friendly neighbourhood store known equally for its unparalleled quality and
passionate customer service. After rising in the ranks from master butcher to meat department manager, Cosimo took over operations in the mid1980s and made the strategic decision to move his family’s shop from the Corso Italia neighbourhood to the affluent ▶
PROMOTION
T H E AT R E
OF
F OO D
Through Pusateri's CO/LAB, customers can experience the best of Toronto's local and innovative eats
PUSATERI’S TRANSFORMS GROCERY STORE VISITS FROM ERRANDS INTO IMMERSIVE EXPERIENCES ▶ area near Avenue Road and Lawrence, Pusateri’s flagship location. It was all part of his vision to develop Pusateri’s into the city's top fine food emporium. Today there are four Pusateri’s locations in Toronto along with two Saks Food Halls. Together, they elevate the food and drink experience with opportunities to learn from the experts. Pusateri’s refined food experience extends to its catering division, where corporate chef Tony Cammalleri leads a world-class team experienced in both intimate cinq-a-septs and sit-down affairs for hundreds of guests. But the full holiday catering menu is where chef Cammalleri excels. Pusateri’s holiday catering packages merge traditional offerings with the latest culinary trends for effortless entertaining that will certainly impress discerning guests.
In true festive spirit, Pusateri’s has partnered with HGTV decorator, Tiffany Pratt, to create striking installations using panettone, the Italian holiday bread. It’s just one way that Pusateri’s is transforming grocery store visits from a ritual errand to an immersive shopping experience that engages all the senses. While Cosimo passed away in 1995, his memory still lives on. Cosimo’s wife Ida and her brother Frank are currently at the helm of the business as its owners and Ida’s children, Sam, Rosanna and Paolo, hold strategic roles in management and operations. The holidays are when Pusateri’s shines not only as a family-owned business but as a source of inspiration for Toronto families who will be hosting festive gatherings and creating memories and traditions of their own. ●
Pusateri’s is a pioneering grocery retailer, introducing the world’s finest foods to Toronto like wagyu beef, Spanish Iberico ham and fresh truffles for the first time. But in its hunt for the best food experiences, it only makes sense to look around the corner at the city’s local bakers, makers and purveyors. Here in Toronto, Pusateri’s has discovered some incredibly innovative eats and culinary trends. Their discoveries have been transformed into short-term pop-up partnerships through an initiative called CO/LAB. These instore appearances give burgeoning enterprises an opportunity to scale up their businesses and experience greater exposure to customers. Many CO/LAB creations are Pusateri’s exclusives, and in some cases, these items become regular store offerings after the pop-up concludes. Previous CO/LAB partners include NÜGATEAU, Pukka, North Poke and Baker & Scone. These Toronto favourites benefit from mentorship from Pusateri’s retail experts while also giving customers the opportunity to sample innovative eats and witness how they’re made, turning the grocery store into an immersive theatre of food.
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P RO D U C TS
MEET THE MAKERS We speak to five artisan makers to discover the craft and tradition behind their products
DARIO LOISON Loison Panettone On the outskirts of Vicenza, Italy, Tranquillo Loison opened a small bakery in 1938. Soon after, the bakery became known for its sweet focacce bread and dedicated customer service. Passing on the family torch, Alessandro’s son Dario joined the business in 1992 and he expanded Loison’s scope internationally, including sales on the shelves of Pusateri’s. Loison’s classic holiday panettone are made using a lievito madre (mother yeast), a sweet sourdough starter and an unhurried 72-hour production process. The panettone are hung upside down after baking to prevent collapse, maintaining their characteristic domed appearance.
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LISA SANGUEDOLCE Elle Dee Cakes Inspired by a passion for creative cakes baked with heart, Lisa Sanguedolce and her sister Joy founded Elle Dee Cakes in 2016. The sisters are known for their honest recipes reminiscent of grandma’s kitchen. Elle Dee Cake designs are always evolving and for Pusateri’s holiday season, they’ve developed a stunning Christmas yule log cake made with rich Belgian chocolate and creamy peppermint buttercream icing. Mini “mushroom” meringues finish the design for a stunning centrepiece to a festive feast.
PROMOTION
CHAD PETERSON Fifth Town Artisan Cheese Co. Prince Edward County might be known for its wines but the region is also home to an award-winning cheese purveyor in Fifth Town Artisan Cheese Co. County bornand-raised cheese maker Chad Peterson uses traditional techniques and hands-on
practises, including hand-ladling into forms, washing, cleaning and brushing cheeses then aging to bloomy rinds. It’s labourintensive but the results are worthwhile, earning the company five medals at the 2017 International Cheese Awards. Fifth Town has created an exclusive offering for Pusateri's: the Red, Red Rose Pyramid of soft goat cheese layered with beet root.
TONY CAMMALLERI Pusateri’s Corporate Chef Growing up on a farm, Tony Cammalleri developed an appreciation for the origins of food. He had the opportunity to grow his own crops and tend to livestock from a young age. But now, as Pusateri’s corporate chef, Cammalleri is on the opposite end of the game, transforming traditional ingredients into simple, fresh and innovative offerings. One of his favourite items to prepare is Sicilianstyle grilled swordfish – a dish that chef Cammalleri wants to help reintroduce to modern palates.
JOE FIGLIOMENI Pusateri’s Master Butcher
Photography: Tara Noelle
A self-professed “meat-junkie”, Joe Figliomeni first joined Pusateri’s meat department in 1991 and quickly developed an appreciation for the grocer's commitment to prioritizing quality over quantity. Figliomeni and his team combine a wet/dry-aging process (which helps to develop great flavour within the beef while retaining moisture) with modern cutting practises akin to fine steakhouse methods. Then, the meat is cut on a 90-degree angle to optimize tenderness. Meat is the centrepiece of many holiday feasts and what Figliomeni enjoys the most about his work is interacting with customers and receiving positive feedback on a successful meal.
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THE BRUNCH: Smashed avocado, fried quail egg and drizzle of hot sauce
R E C I PES
PERFECT PEAR: Chunky pear compote and silky Greek yogurt
A GREAT START
POTATO PANCAKES
Kick off your holiday feasts with recipes that showcase flavourful ingredients
Ingredients ◆◆ 3 large russet potatoes, grated ◆◆ 3 large waxy potatoes, grated ◆◆ 1 large sweet onion, grated ◆◆ 2 large eggs, beaten ◆◆ ¼ cup potato starch or flour ◆◆ 1 tsp baking powder ◆◆ 1 tsp Kosher salt ◆◆ ¼ tsp fresh ground black pepper ◆◆ canola or vegetable oil for frying
FESTIVE AND FRUITY: Pomegranate seeds, Greek yogurt and honey drizzle
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1 Grate the potatoes and onion using a box grater or a food processor. Transfer to a clean kitchen towel and squeeze out as much liquid as possible. 2 Place potatoes and onion in a large bowl. Add eggs, potato starch or flour, baking powder, salt and pepper. Mix well. 3 In a large iron skillet or heavy bottom pan, heat oil over mediumhigh heat. Drop spoonfuls of the mixture and slightly flatten with the back of the spoon. Fry 3-4 minutes per side, or until pancakes are golden and crispy. 4 Remove from the pan and place on a paper towel-lined plate or baking sheet until ready to serve. 5 Serve pancakes while warm with your favourite toppings.
PROMOTION
FIG & BRIE PUFFS Ingredients ◆◆ 1-2 sheets puff pastry ◆◆ 1 egg, beaten ◆◆ 120-150 g brie, cut into small pieces ◆◆ 3 figs, cut into 8 pieces each ◆◆ Honey, for drizzling
1 Preheat oven to 375°F. 2 Cut puff pastry into 5 cm (2”) rounds and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush each circle with beaten egg. 3 Place pieces of brie cheese in the centre of each circle. 4 Place fig pieces at one side directly onto parchment paper. 5 Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until pastry is puffed and golden. 6 Remove from oven and assemble; press a piece of fig down onto the cheese centre of each puff. Drizzle with honey and serve warm. To see more recipes visit pusateris.com/palate.
GALLERIA BOULEVARDIER Ingredients ◆◆ 1/2 oz Collingwood Blended
Canadian Whiskey ◆◆ 1/2 oz Capo Capo Aperitivo ◆◆ 1/2 oz sweet vermouth ◆◆ orange twists as needed
1 Fill a rocks glass with ice. 2 Add Collingwood Whiskey, Capo Capo and sweet vermouth to the glass and stir to mix. 3 Top with an orange twist. 4 Use a skewered Pusateri’s Classic Meatball to garnish or serve on a small plate to accompany. Enjoy this cocktail at Pusateri’s Champagne Bar at their Saks Food Hall locations or try your hand at home.
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BOTTLE SERVICE No festive gathering of friends and family is complete without a favourite tipple PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN FAIST
Because whisky never goes bad it is the gift that keeps giving for years – or even decades. From $40 to $200 we have selections from Ireland, Canada and Scotland that cover the full range from entry-level to aficionado for every tier on your whisky gift list this holiday season
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1 TYRCONNELL 10 YEAR OLD. An intro whisky for someone who wants floral and dried fruit flavours, without the punch of peatiness and the burn after every sip. The 10 year-old goes down easily with vanilla and apricot undertones and a hint of lingering spice on the finish. $46.15, lcbo.com
2 LOT 40 CASK STRENGTH. Formidable rye spice and underlying fruit are present from beginning to end. Get one for yourself and one as a gift. $39.95, lcbo.com 3 GLENFIDDICH PROJECT XX. An intriguing marriage of 20 expertpicked expressions from the huge Glenfiddich library. Fully loaded with black pepper, chocolate and Black Forest cake, with a hint of citrus fruit. $89.95, lcbo.com
4 GLENFIDDICH IPA. A single malt scotch that combines the malty characteristics of whisky with beer’s hoppy notes. You get a drink that is full of citrus and stone fruit with a rare vibrancy and fruity sweetness. $99.95, lcbo.com 5 JP WISER’S 35 YEAR OLD. From one of North America’s iconic distilleries comes the second oldest bottling of whisky available in Canada. Sings with
each sip, and talk about bargain pricing. $164.95, lcbo.com 6 BOWMORE VAULT EDITION. It gets a slightly saline characteristic from ancient, seaside vaults. In the Scotch style that combines flowery aromatics with notes of toffee and ginger spice. $200.20, lcbo.com
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Add a local accent to your holiday celebrations wtih these Ontario sparkling wines that range from $21 to $39
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1 TAWSE SPARK. The Spark is designed to be the perfect aperitif. Its stone fruit-forward flavour profile goes very well with cheese and cured meat. $20.95, lcbo.com 2 TRIUS BRUT SPARKLING. Here is one of the most consistent bottles of sparkling from Niagara. Trius brut has everything we love about champagne-style bubbles, from a toasty brioche start to its apple and citrus finish, there’s freshness throughout. $29.95, lcbo.com 3 CHATEAU DES CHARMES ROSÉ SPARKLING. One of our favourite new rosé sparklers
is a more complex companion to CDC’s brut sparkler. It has hints of dark fruit from a dosage of pinot noir. $29.95, lcbo.com 4 HINTERLAND ROSÉ, 2014. Get a few bottles of this crisp and dry sparkler from one of the best boutique wineries in Prince Edward County. It fills the mouth with lots of apple and hints of strawberry and bread. Made in limited quantity. $39, hinterlandwine.com 5 CAVE SPRINGS BLANC DE BLANC. A crowd favourite from a winery in Niagara. Zippy on the palate and laced with notes of green apple and pear. $29.95, lcbo.com
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1 BEAU’S BREWERY TOM GREEN CHERRY MILK STOUT. This is Beau’s well-known Tom Green stout made using organic cherries. With a creamy mouthfeel and notes of chocolate, coffee and a little fruitcake, we can’t think of a more festive beer. $5.45, lcbo.com 2 BELLWOODS BREWERY PINK GUAVA JELLY KING. Jelly King sour gets a dose of guava puree to create one of the most tropically pleasing beers we have had
in some time. $6.50, bellwoodsbrewery.com 3 NORTHERN MAVERICK GOSE ZILLA. From Nothern Maverick’s debut lineup, our top choice is the Germanstyle gose made with sea salt and coriander to create a palatable experience that is light on tartness with hits of coriander. $6.75, northernmaverick.ca 4 5 PADDLES BREWING HOME SWEET HOME. Clean, crisp and easy drinking with lightly herbal hop notes and
a complex maltiness from the honey malt and the Madagascar vanilla. Pairs well with slow-roasted meats for a flavourful combination. $5.95, lcbo.com 5 BLOOD BROTHERS SHUMEI. Nearly everything at this tiny brewery is compelling, but this is a favourite. It has a pleasing amount of tropical fruit on the palate $6, bloodbrothers brewing. com
With its broad range of flavours, beer should be part of every holiday celebration and these selections, all around $6, will keep you cheerful through New Year’s Day
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NEW SEASONAL MENU EXPERIENCE EVERY MONTH UPSCALE DINING P R I VAT E E V EN T S
647-348-7000 CHASETORONTO.COM
CONTEST COMPETITION
LOCAL, GOURMET GIFTING
Break the regifting cycle with locally-made boxes from Present Day Gifts that everyone will want to keep
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HE HOLIDAYS ARE all about traditions. But one familiar routine that’s worth breaking is that of ho-hum holiday gifts. We’ve all endured forced smiles and feigned surprise after unwrapping less-thanenticing presents. This year, break the regifting cycle with refined gift boxes from Present Day. Boasting a strong emphasis on Canadian products, each component of Present Day’s baskets and boxes is a quality item that will delight its recipient. Every box is hand-assembled in a Roncesvalles studio and finished with a menu card and handwritten note.
Present Day has a range of offerings to suit the food-focused recipient. Cocktail aficionados can enhance their collections with the Bar Cart or Old Fashioned box, featuring bitters from Dillon’s, a local small-batch distiller. These bitters also make an appearance in the Food and Drink box, along with a bottle of hot sauce from Damien’s, which is made in Toronto, and flavourful blends from Queen West's Spice Trader. Aside from Present Day’s ready-made baskets, owner Sophia Pierro can work with you to assemble a unique custom box that touches on the recipient’s hobbies and interests for a memorable gift they’ll cherish. ●
WIN WIN A PRESENT DAY GIFT BOX
WIN
Present Day gift boxes and baskets are hand-assembled in Toronto. With an emphasis on local Canadian makers, Present Day gift boxes are ideal for client gifts and loved ones. You could win a Shareable Sweets gift box valued at $80. To enter visit: foodism.to/competition.
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BEST BUBBLES
Welcome the new year with a pop by uncorking one of these excellent international sparkling wines
THE NOSTALGIST Eight years in, the Toronto Christmas Market is the star on the city’s communal tree writes Andrea Yu
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Photography: Wine by Ryan Faist
HERE IS LITTLE reprieve from Canada’s frigid winters. When my tolerance for slush-induced traffic nightmares, bone-chilling weather reports and muckencrusted plow piles wears thin, there’s one not-so-modest winter affair that makes me appreciate our bleakest season. Yes, I am about to sing the praises of the Toronto Christmas Market and I admit that I’m a sucker for its romance and charm. No matter how far the mercury drops, stepping into the historic Distillery District and seeing strings of fairy lights and the extravagantly decorated tree with the neighbourhood’s cobblestones underfoot makes all memory of double-digit windchills and frost-bitten fingers vanish. Christmas carols grate on my nerves during shopping mall visits but at the market I find myself subconsciously humming along to Mariah’s infectious trills. It could be my brain embellishing moments past in my favour but snow globelike flakes seem to magically fall from the sky on every visit. There’s really no other spot in the city that so swiftly gets me into a kid-like festive spirit and the holiday season doesn’t quite feel like it has started without a requisite visit to the market. I know that its history isn’t long, but I’m impressed by how it has so quickly become entrenched in Toronto’s wintertime identity. The market was launched in 2010 to bring the European-style Christmas market experience to Toronto. It’s still one of the only
holiday markets of its kind in North America and attracts visitors from other Canadian provinces and nearby U.S. states, all eager to slip into a festive reverie mixed with a dose of gift shopping and yuletide indulgence. The market has slowly been evolving since its inception. Its season has expanded from ten days to just over five weeks, liquor licensing has been added and its boozefriendly zones have grown. Notably, while entry is still free on weekdays, a weekend admission fee was added two years ago. I suppose selling tickets to Christmas might sound like a Scrooge-like move and this admission fee, which is currently $6, is a retort I often get from those who don’t share my rosy view of this holiday event. Sure, it can be a crowded affair and lineups are expected. And I know it’s another story for residents of the Distillery District who are involuntarily subjected to the market’s splendor, Mariah tunes and all, for five long weeks. So, to you lot, I am grateful for your sacrifice. Otherwise, for those who rain wet slush on my spirited parade, my advice is to skirt around that admission fee – its purpose, after all, is to discourage those unmanageable peak-time throngs – and plan your visit for a weekday to avoid the crowds and minimize the chance of lineups. And if all else fails, simply head over to the closest mulled wine vendor, sidle up to one of the market’s many open fire pits, cue the snowflakes and let the Christmas season festivities begin. f
1. CAVE DE L U G N Y C U VÉ E M IL L É SI M E B RU T C R É M ANT D E B OU R G OG NE, 2013 Made from chardonnay and pinot noir grapes, the nose on this vibrant sparkler will transport you to a Parisian bakery, followed by honeysuckle and dried fruit. It’s sweet but has a hit of acid to balance its saccharine qualities. $21.95, lcbo.com
2. R E B E C CA M I N KO F F B RU T C HANDON Fashion designer Rebecca Minkoff has partnered with Chandon to create a limited edition bottle with a new geometric, metallic design. Inside you’ll find Chandon’s classic brut. An easydrinking bubbly full of stone fruit flavours and designed to pair with anything on the holiday party menu. $29.95, lcbo.com
3. T E R R OIR L A BAU M E SAINT-PAUL C R EM A N T DE L IM OUX This wine can go the distance at your next dinner party, not just as an aperitif but alongside appetizers and whole plates. From the Languedoc-Roussillon region, it starts with buttery croissant and toasted brioche, then runs through the mouth with citrus and tropical fruit. $18.95, lcbo.com
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THE DIGEST FAIR FOWL Toronto’s city council has approved a pilot project that will allow those in four select wards to raise chickens, with some minor restrictions. Residents of Etobicoke-Lakeshore, Parkdale-High Park, St. Paul’s and Beaches-East York may keep up to four chickens in their
We’ve got all the Toronto food and drink news that’s fit for sharing
backyard. Eggs laid by hens cannot be sold and no roosters are permitted. Chickens are still not allowed in apartments, condos and properties without enough yard room for them to stretch their wings. The introductory phase, which began in October, is slated to run for up to three years with a review planned for the 18-month mark.
NIAGARA GOLD The annual icewine festival returns to Niagara-on-the-Lake in January, with two weeks of tastings and parties to celebrate the event’s 23rd year. Celebrations kick off with an outdoor gala that hosts over a dozen local wineries who pour their best reds, whites and sparklers alongside the icewine. And there will be great food, since each winery is paired up with a local chef. The Icewine Village hosts 28 wineries and 14 restaurants present wine and culinary treats. White on Ice is a noteworthy evening, with outdoor dining and a Dr. Zhivago atmosphere.
Photography: Chickens and Whisky by Suresh Doss; Tree by Rodion Kutsaev
TO MARKET WHISKY WANDER Canada has an impressive track record of whisky production, dating back to the mid 1700s. In 1900, Canadian whisky was the top-selling category in the world. At the centre of this country’s whisky history is the JP Wiser’s distillery in Windsor, Ont. The distillery recently opened its doors to a brand new tasting room and tours for the first time. They will show the whisky making process from beginning to end. Here’s your chance to be part of the Canadian whisky revolution.
A sprawling new Christmas market launching in early December in Milton means GTAers have yet another festive destination. The Holiday Street Market will be even larger than its Toronto predecessor with an ambitious 242 vendors on the slate of possible participants. That list will range from food trucks to gifts to craft beer and icewine. The market will also feature a carousel, fire pit with marshmallow roasting and photo opps with Santa. Organizers expect up to 30,000 visitors over the market’s three-day run on December 2, 9 and 16.
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Give gadgets that the cooks on your gift list want with a trip to one of these top kitchenware shops
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KIT FOR EVERY KITCHEN
It’s the time of year for giving gifts and getting cozy. Find the kitchen tools your friends and family will love and then sate your hunger with a comforting bowl of curry and slake your thirst with a fireside tipple
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1 The Good Egg 267 Augusta Ave.
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The selection of browsable stores in Kensington Market is complemented by the Good Egg’s quirky collection of food accessories. The cheery interior is filled with items that are as useful as they are beautiful, like Opinel knives, ceramic serverware from Bauer Pottery and Hario cold-brew coffee rigs. There’s also a gift-worthy selection of kitchen themed art and knick-knacks, ranging from colourful illustrations to amigurumi food. At its core, however, the Good Egg is a culinary bookstore, carrying wonderful cookbooks, chef biographies, novels, magazines and other food literature. goodegg.ca
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BEST OF THE REST 2 Nella Cucina
4 Tap Phong
876 Bathurst St.
360 Spadina Ave.
Taking its name from an Italian expression meaning “in the kitchen,” Nella Cucina’s extensive kitchenware collection is wellsuited to novice cooks and experienced chefs alike. Inside the shop’s sprawling, two-storey interior, you’ll find culinary goods from all the major names, including All-Clad and Staub, along with gorgeous Japanese knives from brands like Shun and Kikuichi. Nella Cucina also regularly hosts cooking classes and interactive demos, so you can brush up on the basics of knife skills and kneading or learn specific techniques like making gnocchi or pizza from scratch.
A Chinatown staple for over three decades, Tap Phong is known for carrying unusual cooking and serving tools you won’t find elsewhere. Whether it’s a Ferris wheel-style serving stand; a smoking gun for adding applewood and hickory flavours to your food; or a beer layering tool for pouring a stout and bitter ale combo, Tap Phong’s innovative selection has a tendency to solve culinary problems you didn’t even know you had. The diverse range of equipment attracts a mix of pro chefs and at-home cooks and the remarkably low prices are icing on the cake.
nellacucina.ca
3 iQ Living
tapphong.com
5 Cayne’s Super Housewares 112 Doncaster Ave.
iQ Living’s bright store on the Danforth houses over 5,000 different products, including well-known brands like Bodum, Emile Henry and Joseph Joseph. The 3,500 square-foot room features everything you could need for cooking, baking and serving, from handsome cheese boards made of maple and sleek copper-core cookware from All-Clad to bread machines and stainless steel lunch boxes. As the “living” part of its name implies, they go beyond kitchenware.
Rock-bottom prices make this Thornhill institution well worth the drive north of the city. The store’s 25,000-square-foot, warehouse-style interior is overflowing with baking tools, appliances and accessories for entertaining. You’ll find steep discounts on all the major kitchenware brands, including KitchenAid, T-Fal, Cuisinart and Panasonic. Cayne’s also carries a selection of general housewares, which means you can stock your entire home in a single trip. There’s also the option to buy from Cayne’s online store.
iqliving.com
cayneshousewares.com
542 Danforth Ave.
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Photography: 1 by Suresh Doss
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1 Imanishi 1330 Dundas St. W.
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CURRY COMFORT Toronto’s United Nations of food is best represented by this flavourful class of dishes
Small plates make up most of the menu at this hip Dundas West restaurant, but among the dishes large enough to be enjoyed as a stand-alone meal is the curry rice. Imanishi specializes in homestyle Japanese cuisine, making it a fitting spot to sample curry rice, a weeknight favourite of busy families in Japan. In contrast to the spicy flavour that defines most types of curry, Japanese curry has a slightly sweet taste. Imanishi serves a veggie version of the dish, as well as a katsu variation, which comes topped with crispy breaded pork loin for a satisfying textural contrast to the gravy-like curry sauce. A warm interior, with plenty of wood accents, makes this a welcome spot for wintertime dining. imanishi.ca
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BEST OF THE REST 2 Salad King
4 Banjara
340 Yonge St.
796 Bloor St. W.
Eating here is a rite of passage for Ryerson students and hungry, budget-strapped Torontonians alike. The not-so-secret offmenu option – Islamic noodles – is just Salad King’s Panang curry served over rice noodles and the combination is incredibly satisfying. Orders can be customized on a 1-to-30 chillies spice scale for the perfect heat level.
The heady spices and tandoor char from Banjara’s kitchen add to the charm of a walk along the south end of Christie Pits Park. Thick, rich curries are flecked with all manner of spices, so the whole range is worth trying. Dinner combos are buried near the end of the menu but are a sensible option for firsttime visitors. They have seven sides, bites and curries in a cafeteria-style partitioned platter.
saladking.com
3 AF1 Caribbean Canteen 596 College St.
AF1 is best known for authentic jerk dishes made by smoking meats like pork or chicken over pimento wood for up to six hours. The restaurant also excels at other Caribbean specialities, many based on traditional recipes from chef Adrian Forte’s grandmother. The curry goat is a flavourful rendition of the West Indian classic, featuring chunks of meat and veg in spicy curry sauce. caribbeancanteen.ca
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5 Toby’s Pub 411 College St.
Toby’s chicken tikka masala is a tasty take on Britain’s unofficial national dish. It’s made with oven roasted chicken breast sauteed in the pub’s signature masala sauce and served along with generously portioned sides of rice, naan bread, papadum and mango chutney. Best paired with one of Toby’s super cheap beer pitchers, which start at around $11. tobyspub.com
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BEST OF THE REST 2 The Queen and Beaver
4 Ceili Cottage
35 Elm St.
1301 Queen St. E.
The Q&B fills two storeys of a handsome, Victorian-style townhouse. The main floor dining room exudes a quirky elegance, with mismatched furniture and portraits of royalty. The upper level feels more like an Englishstyle sports bar with its cushy chairs and a large TV tuned to Premier League matches.
Since their headline-grabbing wintertime yurt was nixed by the bar’s landlord, the cozy cold-weather spirit lives on within Ceili Cottage’s interior. In lieu of a real fireplace, a video of glowing logs might be found on its flat screens while the cottage stew on its food menu helps warm the soul. If that fails, Ceili has a deep collection of Irish whiskies.
queenandbeaverpub.ca
3 Dora Keogh 41 Danforth Ave.
Irish pubs are a part of most North American neighbourhoods, but few are authentic enough to include a snug – a private room so intimate and inviting that its name is literally a synonym for coziness. If you can’t snag a spot in the snug, Dora’s has plenty of other comfy corners. Wood-panelled walls, copper tables and a convivial ambiance make this pub an appealing spot to linger over a pint of Guinness or tumbler of Bushmills. dorakeogh.to
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5 The Library Bar 100 Front St. W.
Hotel bars aren’t a default go-to as a wintertime escape but the Fairmont Royal York’s Library Bar is a worthwhile retreat that lives up to its name. Carpeted flooring, lush drapery and, of course, shelves of leather-bound books evoke the feeling of a grandfather’s reading room. Visit during the holiday season to catch a glimpse of the hotel’s Christmas tree in the lobby.
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@librarybarryh
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FIRESIDE LIBATION With pints of porter – or drams of whisky – find a comfy nook in these pubs to fight back winter
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1 C’est What 67 Front St. E. Photography: Curry 2, Photograph 4 by Suresh by Doss ###
Since 1988, this bar near St. Lawrence Market has been promoting local breweries for much longer than the term “craft beer” has been in use. They’re still one of the few spots in the city with a solid cask program, pulling from seven pumps at any given time. C’est What’s subterranean setup makes for the perfect place to escape the cold and we like to do a preliminary wander through its two bars and multiple seating areas before picking a spot. cestwhat.com
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ORANGE PEEL: The flavour of dried citrus opens up when immersed in wine.
CEYLON CINNAMON: True cinnamon, lighter on both the nose and palate than its cassia cousin.
CASSIA CINNAMON: Inner bark of a tropical evergreen with a strong flavour and nostalgic aroma. STAR ANISE: Eight-pointed seed pods that add a strong licorice flavour. NUTMEG: The sweet and pungent fragrance comes alive when grated. Works well as a garnish.
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ALLSPICE: Dried berries from a pimento family plant. Adds a subtle, spicy note. CARDAMOM: Seed pods from a plant related to ginger. Has a lime-like, floral aroma.
The Spice Trader, 877 Queen St. W., 647-430-7085
CLOVES: Sweet, warm and with a fragrance that is closely tied to all things baking at Christmas.
Photography: Ryan Faist
A heady concoction of exotic spices gives mulled wine its warmth and festive character. Here’s a selection from Toronto’s Spice Trader to season your first batch
Make a meal of it.
PC® Black Label Raspberry Syrup isn’t just for sweets. Its vibrant flavour can be used to create an entire meal. Start with a Moroccan Fennel and Cabbage Slaw, then serve a Raspberry Peri Peri Roast Pork as a sumptuous main. Finally, some Raspberry Ricotta Cream Puff Sandwiches make for a delectable dessert.
Find these recipes and more at pc.ca/blacklabel
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