A Visit with the Starks
Made for Dagmar and Klaus Stark with love and appreciation for a wonderful visit. Susan Hanes June 2012
A Visit with the Starks May 4 ~ May 8 & June 20, 2012
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Thursday, May 3 Before meeting Jake for our travels in Southeastern Europe, I was looking forward to a visit with Dagmar and Klaus Stark in Stuttgart. This would give me a chance to spend some time with my dear friends and get over jet lag before joining Jake in Munich on Tuesday. I caught the usual Blue Line to O’Hare just before noon but for some reason the train was absolutely packed and I had to stand for the 45-minute ride, trying to keep my bags from rolling over sandaled feet in the close heat of the car. So much for maintaining a fresh look until I reached Stuttgart. Once on board United 958 to London, I was pleased to find I had a bulkhead seat with no companion; I soon transformed it into a little room for myself. The pilot announced severe weather in the Michigan area, but he maneuvered around the bumps for the most part, earning my gratitude. After barbeque chicken and a brownie, I settled down for a rest, glad that I had my little pills to counter the clearair turbulence we encountered along the way.
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Friday, May 4 A gorgeous sunrise over the clouds as I enjoyed cup of hot tea before we landed at Heathrow. A long trek to my connecting Lufthansa flight. As I made my way through the empty corridors, thought of the throngs that would soon be filling the airport once people started arriving for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and the Summer Olympics. Uneventful flight to Munich; picked up my bag and crossed over to Terminal 2 for the train to the Munich Central Station. Bought a second-class ticket for the ICE train to Stuttgart and enjoyed slipping through the patchwork of green corn and golden rape when I was not nodding off. Attempted to use our new international phone, but the loud ringing it made whenever I tried to dial drew a mixture of annoyed looks and smiles from the other inhabitants of
the car, so I gave up. Once at the Stuttgart station, had to resort to my iPhone to reach Klaus. We finally connected and he drove me to Gerlingen. As we ascended the hills surrounding Stuttgart, I enjoyed a warm glow of recognition. Dagmar was at the door to greet me with a big hug. She had decorated the condo with hearts in honor of my arrival. Coffee and strawberry cheesecake on the terrace overlooking their lovely garden. Later, spargel (white asparagus) in a sweet butter sauce, baerlach (wild garlic) soup, and strawberries for dinner. It is a real treat to be here during spargel season. Dagmar put me to bed at nine, as they have lots of plans for tomorrow. She placed a tiny Glucksschwein (lucky pig) on my pillow, as a good luck charm for my trip.
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The perfect welcome: healthy food, good wine, and hearts! 4
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Saturday, May 5 A restful sleep in my cool, quiet, rolladen-darkened room. At 9:30, Dagmar had to knock on my door to be sure I was conscious. After one of her bountiful breakfasts, Klaus drove us into town. It appears that all of Stuttgart is undergoing renovation. Stuttgart 21, as the city’s massive project is called, has been the source of major controversy. Many Germans feel that the city is fine the way it is and there is no need for anything new. Dagmar and Klaus explained that the same fight occurred over the construction of the new messe at Killesberg; now it is most frequented convention center in all of Europe. At this point however, it is easy to understand people’s frustration, as most of the downtown area is torn up and many streets have been
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re-routed to accommodate the construction. Perhaps all this upheaval has something to do with the surprising amount of graffiti I found on many of the older buildings. As a sample of what is to come, they took me to the new Stadtbibliotek Stuttgart, a giant Rubik’s Cube of a building designed by Korean architect Eun Young Yi. Stepping inside, I was immediately struck by the whiteness and open space. Looking over the railing on the eighth floor, I could see books displayed on each floor in open shelves, with pale blue benches casting the faintest tinge of color over the interior. Stuttgart has yet again proven itself. I have always felt that this is a special city, and it will be exciting to see its complete rebirth in about ten years.
We drove on to Esslingen, the village to the east of Stuttgart that was my favorite when I lived here. Although I was disappointed that the antique shop that I always visited was closed, I enjoyed walking along the cobblestone streets around the market place that I remember so well. Dagmar showed me a favorite boutique on Hafenmarket where I found a stylish black striped jacket by German designer Oska. We shared a table at a small gaststube on the square where we enjoyed wurst and maultaschen and a little red wine. After pausing for me to duplicate the photo of Esslingen that I took of the village from the bridge over the Neckar in 1986, Klaus returned us to Gerlingen.
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We visited Wilko and Julia Stark and their three children, Alexia (10), Emily (8) and Henrik (4). Julia had baked a cheesecake and we sat around the table for coffee and a chat. Before we left, Wilko took me to the garage to show me his newest baby, a 1967 Mercedes 280SL; he backed it out and invited me to sit in the driver’s seat for a photo op.
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In the evening, I was treated to one of Stuttgart’s greatest treasures, the ballet. It was a fabulous performance of the uniquely physical and innovative dance that has made the Stuttgarter Ballet among the finest companies in the world. The program of The Lady and the Fool by John Cranko with music by Verdi, followed by Gaitie Parisienne with Offenbach’s delightful score made for a night I will remember for a long time. Just before curtain time, we ran into Christine Klug, a friend I met almost 30 years ago when we lived here and whom I liked very much. Dagmar will invite her to join us at her coffee for me on Tuesday.
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Sunday, May 6 I slept even later this morning and joined Dagmar and Klaus at the breakfast table at 10:30. I have not slept so well in years. Lox and fresh bread and tea before we drove through the countryside to Calw, a village of half-timbered buildings nestled in the Nagold Valley, southwest of Stuttgart. A small festival was in progress as we walked up the cobbled main street, and I enjoyed seeing the array of honey, cheeses, sausages, and handicrafts displayed on little stands. A colorful band of young musicians started playing as we walked up, as if on cue. Visited the Hermann Hesse Museum, housing the world’s largest collection of materials related to Calw’s famous native son. Dagmar and I were both big Hesse fans in our college days, and after a most interesting visit, we agreed to
read biographies and discuss them in our letters. I was not surprised to learn that Hesse was the widest-read German-speaking writer of the 20th century, for his books were almost required reading in the 1960s. A copy of Siddhartha sits on my reading stand at home, in fact. Stopped for coffee and flamkuchen, the thin Alsacian pie that I discovered last night when Dagmar made it for our post-theater supper. Three kilometers on, we strolled through Hirsau, the site of the ruins of a large Benedictine monastery as well as the small and mystical thousand-year-old Aurelius Church. Clouds came and went, but we escaped anything more than the occasional raindrop. Back by early evening for supper at home and TV, watching the French election results.
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Calw
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Across the sky, the clouds move, Across the fields, the wind, Across the fields the lost child Of my mother wanders. Across the street, leaves blow, Across the trees, birds cry – Across the mountains, far away, My home must be. ~Hermann Hesse
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Kirke St. Aurelius 11th Century 19
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Hirsau
Monday, May 7 Dagmar and Klaus planned a day in the country, meandering north along the Fachwerk Strasse (Road of Half-Timbered Houses) toward Bad Mergentheim where we were to meet Anselm for a special evening concert. We started with BietigheimBissingen, a charming little town that is a lesson in contrast. Tucked amongst the perfectly restored historical buildings, imaginative constructions blended comfortably: a Gaudiesque curved balcony attached to a half-timbered hall, ultramodern steel statues near the old Rathaus, a building that was half old wood beams and half metalframed glass. Enticing shops lined the cobbled street; probably a good thing that most of them observed Monday closings. 22
Bietigheim-Bissingen 23
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Further on, we came to the medieval town of Besigheim, billed “Germany’s Most Beautiful Wine Growing Town” and surrounded by vineyards stretching far into the distance. Strolled the central street lined with more half-timbered houses and stopped for homemade maultachen at the Café Hirsch, Home of Schwabish Hospitality, according to the beer coasters.
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Besigheim
Saved some time by getting on the autobahn for 50 km or so, exiting again along the Schwabish Wine Road to the Gotzenburg Castle at Jagsthausen. Although we were not able to go inside (it was being set up for a theatrical production), we enjoyed views of the castle nestled in the woods. At Schontal, visited the former 12th century Cistercian abbey, now an impressive Baroque structure that serves as a retreat and training center. We continued through fresh spring-budding forests on the Schwabian Dicterstrasse (Road of Poets) to see the Madonna at the church at Stuppach, but were disappointed to find that the 16th century painting by Matthias Grunewald was undergoing a major restoration until the fall. Had to settle instead for a photo posted on the church message board.
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Schontal
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As it was nearing 6:00, we drove to Bad Mergentheim and had dinner at Poseidon, a small Greek restaurant on the market square. As we were finishing our souvlaki and salad, Anselm Stark and his US counterpart, LCOL Neil Khatod, arrived. I was delighted to see that the lively teenager I knew thirty years ago had become such a distinguished officer in the Deutsch Bundeswehr. Neil and Anselm escorted us through the Kurpark to a champagne reception followed by a concert in the modern glass Kurhalle. The event was organized by Anselm’s unit as a means of thanking the people of Bad Mergentheim for their support over the years. Words by the Bürgermeister and the Oberstleutnant indicated that Anselm might be the last commander there, as the unit moves on to other more necessary places in the world. After the guests settled into the performance hall, the music corps of the barracks performed ten lively tunes and marches for a delighted audience. The evening ended when everyone stood for the playing of the Deutschlandlied, Hayden’s haunting melody. As everyone sang in unison, “Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit Für das Deutsche Vaterland!” I thought to myself that it is time for the German people to put the past away and be proud of their country once again. 30
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Tuesday, May 8 After all that we had eaten yesterday, we had a simple breakfast of yoghurt and fresh fruit. As Dagmar prepared for the party this afternoon, I worked on a little speech to record for Klaus’s 70th birthday celebration on May 12. At 3:00, we greeted nine of Dagmar’s friends whom I had known from my time in Germany: Christine, whom I have known almost as long as Dagmar; Gisela, a porcelain artist; Heti, master cook and one of Dagmar’s closest friends; Lili, a lovely friend from Wenningen; Maureen, an Irish friend who is studying to be a sommelier; Gudrun, possessing a great sense of humor and perfect English; and Inge, who used to be Dagmar’s neighbor. After champagne in the garden, the group moved to the table for coffee and cake and lots of laughter and good will. Christine Klug arrived as several were leaving and I was pleased to have a chance for a quieter visit with her. After her divorce from Julian, Christine began her own business as a mediator. I was happy to connect with her again after so many years, as I have always remembered her warmth and friendship. After the champagne flutes were washed 34
and put away, Klaus, Dagmar, and I drove to Vivi Stark’s condo for supper with her and her boyfriend Benni. She looked great and has that particular aura of a capable doctor. She is specializing in gastroenterology and is relieved to have regular hours after her year in the emergency room.
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For Klaus Stark’s 70th Birthday On the occasion of Klaus’s 70th birthday, I hope that you will allow me to add a few words of my own in this way. I would have liked very much to be with you for this celebration, for after spending many hundreds of kilometers riding in the back seat of the car with Klaus, I feel not only like a member of the family, but that I have a unique perspective on him, which of course includes the fact that he still retains a very healthy head of hair, not so usual by this time in one’s life. My back seat observations took place for the most part during a two week trip around eastern Germany in 2007. I watched how Klaus maneuvered the autobahn with skill and good cheer, and how he and Dagmar chatted and laughed together like they were on their first date and not a married couple of more than 40 years. Of course, when one drives with Klaus, there is never any danger of becoming bored in the car, for any trip involves frequent stops for a cup of coffee, which always includes a nice piece of cake as well. As a matter of fact, I noticed Klaus’s is talent for scouting out any variety of eating establishments. At a street fest, he notices the sizzling sausages, at a museum, he finds the coffee shop. While shopping in town,
he discovers a cozy restaurant with a good kitchen. I have been struck with how unfair life is that he has managed to stay so fit while Dagmar and I must watch every bite. Such are the difficult issues of life. In the nearly 30 years of my wonderful friendship with Dagmar, I have had the pleasure of knowing Klaus, for to know Dagmar is to also know her soul mate. How two people could have made such a good decision in choosing a life partner at their young ages is truly remarkable, but their partnership is truly inspiring. During this recent visit with Dagmar and Klaus, I have had the pleasure of seeing three of you kids, and speaking to the fourth. That you four have become such attractive, well-educated, well-mannered and exceptional young people is a tribute to your parents. With the birthrate in Germany declining, Klaus and Dagmar have given your country a beautiful legacy in your generation, which now continues to the next with eight beautiful and beloved grandchildren. I hope that today as you celebrate the seventy years that this sweet and honorable man has been on this earth, that you will also lift your glass to him and to the Family Stark that he leads with humor, generosity and above all, love. To you, Klaus, a very happy 37
Wednesday, May 9
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An early start to the day, as Klaus and Dagmar saw me safely on the 7:00 ICE train to Munich, where I will meet Jake for the start of our trip through the Balkans. Felt a pang of sadness as I waved from my window. What generous hosts they have been this week, and what precious friends they are to me. But this is not good-by, as I will look forward to meeting them in Munich at the end of June to report on our adventures.
Wednesday, June 20
Munich
Jake did not want to miss the opportunity to see the Alte Pinakothek and knew that I wanted to spend the day with Dagmar, so he got an early start while I waited to meet the Starks, who were driving in from Stuttgart. I found a corner in the lobby of the Hotel Platzl and squirreled myself away to write for an hour until I saw them coming down the street. It was great to see them again and tell them about our travels. We walked through the Marienplatz and went into the Frauenkirche, returning to see the Glockenspiel at the Rathaus at noon. Rambled among the booths at the Viktualienmarkt, Munich’s main food market, and stopped for lunch at Der Pschorr, within the market. Had a great time looking at the store windows. There
are so many specialty shops in Munich: shops for sausages and for wood items and for brushes and for knives. Dagmar especially wanted to show me Dallmayr, the epicurean store that is every bit as lavish as Fauchon in Paris or the Harrods Food Halls. She was thrilled when we went up to the café on the second floor and found a table available. While she and Klaus had coffee and pastries, I ordered a Bellini made with prosecco and Pfirsichmark, mashed fresh white peaches. Later we looked at the clothing boutiques; our shopping was successful thanks to Dagmar’s knowledge of the places to look for bargains. It is easy to see why Munich is such a favorite with Germans and tourists alike.
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We parted just before 5:00 with plans to meet for dinner at 7:00. I made it back to the hotel just as it started to rain and caught up with Jake. The Starks were a little late, as they had gotten caught in the storm and totally soaked; we had time, however, for a drink at the bar before we descended to the hotel’s 16th century cellar, the Pfistermuehle, where we enjoyed a long and happy evening in a corner paneled booth, sharing the tasting menu and excellent Bavarian wine. Toasted Klaus’s birthday, our Balkan adventure, and our long and loving friendship.
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Auf unsere Freundschaft 45