Travels with Carter 2015
A journal kept by Susan Hanes for her grandson, Carter Houston Hanes, during a trip they made to Austria and Germany from June 5-June 15, 2015. Photos by Susan Hanes with contributions by Jen and Carter Hanes. copyright 2015.
Travels with Carter June 5 - June 15, 2015 Jen had a great idea when she asked if I would like to come to Vienna and meet her and Carter while she attended a conference sponsored by the International Council of Ophthalmology. We would all share her hotel room and Carter and I would be free to explore Vienna while Jen was busy with the European Society of Ophthalmology Congress. So after spending ten days in London, I flew to Vienna. For the next five days, Carter and I explored one of the great cities of the world. When the Congress was over, Jen and Carter took a train to Hallstatt and Munich while I headed to Stuttgart. Three days later, we met up again at the home of Klaus and Dagmar Stark where three generations of our families gathered for the baptism of Hanna Sophie KÜhler, the Starks’ newest grandchild.
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Friday, June 5
to Vienna, Austria
The alarm went off at 6:00 so that I could get to Heathrow
was able to get to the Austria Center and meet up with
in plenty of time for my flight. Michael Palau offered to
Carter immediately. He had been patiently waiting for me
drive me there, saving me from negotiating the Jubilee Line
all morning while Jen was setting up for the conference that
during the morning rush. Storms around the airport
starts tomorrow. Carter led me the short way to the Park
delayed my British Airways flight to Vienna for nearly an
Inn where Jen would meet us later. We joined her
hour, but we managed to make up most of the time and I
colleague, Lindsay, and walked along the Alte Donau for
arrived just after 1:00. I had a surprise when my bag did not
ribs and beer at StrandCafĂŠ. Carter and I made plans for the
make it on the same flight that I did, in spite of my
next couple of days and we all had an early night. I slept in
checking in early and the flight being delayed. The good
the same clothes I had worn all day, with the hope that my
side of that was that I was unencumbered with luggage and
bag would be found soon.
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Saturday, June 6
Vienna, Austria
Carter and I started out fresh and feeling great after a good night’s sleep. We had planned to start the Big Bus circle tour near our hotel, but after several attempts to find the stop, we gave up and took the U-Bahn to Stephansplatz, the geographical center of Vienna. Just as we were coming up the steps to street level, a brass band started playing—in honor of Carter’s arrival, I teased him. We walked through St. Stephen’s Cathedral, one of the tallest churches in the world. Dating from the mid-13th century, it has borne witness to many important events in Habsburg and Austrian history and is, with its multi-colored tile roof, one of the city's most recognizable symbols.
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St. Stephen’s Cathedral
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We walked down Kohlmarkt to Demel, the famous pastry shop and chocolatier, founded in 1786. We gazed through the glass at the beautiful pastries and cakes arrayed in old curved wooden cases. In another room, mountains of antique-styled boxes of chocolates were arranged in pyramids.
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We found a great table next to the sidewalk outside and had lunch. I explained to Carter how lucky we were to have such a nice spot, as Demel is always full. We ordered sausages and sandwiches and shared a leafy green salad.
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Of course, we topped it off with Demel’s famous ice cream. We ordered cups from the special ice cream window. Carter chose raspberry and lemon and I had Cat’s Tongue and vanilla. The verdict was that the raspberry was one of the best Carter had ever had but the lemon was too lemony. My vanilla was really flavorful and the Cat’s Tongue (a delicate chocolate) was just about perfect. 9
We continued up to the Spanish Riding School entrance to check where we need to be tomorrow. The horses were in their stalls, awaiting their Sunday performance.
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Nearby, we visited the Imperial Treasury at the Hofburg Palace, with its amazing collection of treasures covering more than a thousand years of European history. Carter decided that the imperial crown would be his choice to carry out under his coat. I think I might have preferred the gold necklace with the Golden Fleece hanging as a pendant. We were intrigued by the gold and jeweldecorated gloves we saw, and smiled that they are called handschuhe in German. There was also an impressive array of gold swords and sabers, encrusted with jewels.
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I tried to use my phone’s GPS to find the Zukerlwerkstatt (Sugar Workshop), but gave up and handed the duties over to Carter after I brought us to a place called United Nude Vienna. Fortunately, the candy factory was next door. We were warmly greeted when we went in and were invited to watch the magic as a giant mound of candy-striped fondant was rolled into thin tubes with tiny fruit images inside. After a taste, we bought two jars of mixed fruit candies. Carter also suggested that I get a jar of candies with tiny hearts in their centers.
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From there it was a short walk to the U-Bahn. We managed the change of lines and by 4:00 we were in our room. Jen came back for a rest a short time after we did; it was fun to tell her about our day. At 6:00, we were ready to head back down to the center of town for the evening. By the time we changed trains at Schwedenplatz, we decided that we had pretty much mastered the subway. After locating the Kursalon Wien, where we had tickets for the evening concert, we stopped at the nearby Café Hagelhof for meatballs and salad. At 8:00, we picked up our tickets and took our seats. Johann Strauss once directed his orchestra in that same hall, and as we sat on the gold wooden chairs, Carter and I felt as it must have been to attend one of those musical evenings. We loved the music, as we listened to Strauss’s “Blue Danube,” “O Mio Babbino Caro” from Puccini’s La Boheme, and “In quegli anni” from Mozart’s Marriage of Figaro. We have now sensed Vienna’s greatness through its treasures, its buildings, and its music, and we will continue our exploration of this great city tomorrow.
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Sunday, June 7
Vienna, Austria
It was hard to get up this morning, and Carter and I
the white Lipizzan horses perform classical dressage.
were running later than I’d hoped as we headed for the
Their movements evolved over the centuries from
U-Bahn. But with a quick step and a little luck, we got
cavalry training for the battlefield. As the announcer
to the ticket “will call� counter of the Spanish Riding
explained, classical riding is the art of riding in
School fifteen minutes before the 11:00 performance.
harmony with, rather than against, the horse. Carter said
The venue, part of the Hofburg, is a beautiful hall
that he thought that it was a great combination of the
dating from 1735. We were enchanted as we watched
modern and the traditional. 21
After the show, we had lunch at CafÊ Griensteidl nearby. I ordered a giant Wiener schnitzel but poor Carter got short-changed when he was served a child’s plate that was pretty skimpy for a growing boy.
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We walked over to the Museum Quarter but when we saw the Big Bus tour bus, we decided to hop on board instead. The loop around the city took an hour and a half, and we sat upstairs at the front and enjoyed great views. Unfortunately, it was really hot up there. 23
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The Blue Danube
We hopped off the bus at the State Opera House. To the side of the building was a huge screen; chairs were set up in rows in front of it, in preparation for the simulcast of the last of Wagner’s Ring Cycle, Götterdämmerung (Twilight of the Gods). We stopped for a snack at the Sacher Hotel. Of course, I had to try the famous Sacher Torte and Viennese coffee. Carter chose apple strudel and ice cream. He commented that the ice cream flavors in Vienna are almost too intense for his taste; I could understand what he meant. 28
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From there we walked to the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Carter enjoyed the Egyptian, Classical Greek, and Roman rooms. Upstairs I showed him the intriguing peasant paintings of Dutch Renaissance painter Pieter Bruegel the Elder, whose 16th century works invite close inspection. The closer one looks, the more sinister the paintings become. We had now added art and cuisine to our Vienna experience.
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Playing with a whip
Stirring excrement with a stick
Mock Baptism
Hair Pulling
In Children’s Games, Pieter Bruegel was showing that children’s activities mock those of adults. These so-called “games” are not always as fun and nice as they seem to be at first glance. Some 80 games have been identified here. Bruegel painted this in 1560, nearly 500 years ago. Has much has changed since then?
A rock-paper-sissors game
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Passing through kicking legs
Child guesses how many fingers he was slapped with
“Bum Bouncing” Penalty
Pieter Bruegel Children’s Games 1560
When we came out of the museum, the Big Bus heading along the blue route was waiting, and once, again, we hopped aboard and found places at the front of the upper deck. This time, the loop took us around Schonbrunn Palace, the Arsenal, and the Belvedere.
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We wished we’d had more time, but it had been a long day already, and we walked to the U-Bahn as soon as the bus returned to the museum area. By 6:30 we were back at the hotel. For dinner, we walked a short distance to Zur Alten Kaisermuhle, located on the Alte Donau, where we had a private table tucked at the end of the river’s edge. Our meal of ribs and fresh fish was really good and Carter and I had a wonderful evening, laughing together and sharing stories.
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Monday, June 8
Bratislava, Slovakia Since we had seen so much of Vienna, Carter and I decided to take a side trip to Bratislava, the capitol of Slovakia. Located only an hour outside of Vienna, Bratislava is small for a capitol city, with a half million inhabitants. We took the train, which carried us primarily through farmland that set me sneezing in both directions. When we arrived at Hlavna Stanica station, we hired a taxi to take us to Stare Mesto, the city’s historic district. 39
Before doing anything else, we stopped for lunch at Primi,
commenting that each bottle he has ordered on the trip has
an appealing cafĂŠ across from the Museum of Pharmacy in
had a different design. I tried the local alibernet wine. The
the shadow of St. Michael’s Tower. We ordered a giant
front of the museum across from us looked intriguing with
platter of roasted chicken and vegetables that looked like it
its Gothic lettering and curvy wrought-iron design
was way too much when it was set before us, but which we
(including a lobster) and I was sorry that we were there on
managed to polish off easily. Carter had a Sprite,
a Monday, when the museums are closed.
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However, as we strolled along the labyrinthine cobblestone
noticed a lot of street sculpture along the way. Most of it
streets, we found a neat little antique shop down a narrow
was silly, including a pig dressed in armor and a mouse
alley, where I bought an old apothecary jar that looked as if
eating a giant ice cream cone. But we both liked the bronze
it belonged in the museum. At the main square, or HlavnĂŠ
workman just coming out of a manhole in front of a jewelry
NĂĄmestie, we enjoyed seeing the attractive buildings,
shop. As I was taking a picture of him, Carter noticed an
decorated and painted in a variety of pastel colors. We also
amber necklace in the shop window that was similar to one
noticed the detailed carving and metal work on many of
I had admired near our restaurant. He really liked it, and
the doors; we spotted several Green Men hiding amongst
encouraged me to go in and take a closer look. After some
the leaves. By then it was time for an ice cream break. This
negotiating, I bought it. I think he was pleased that I had
time, Carter had apple and lemon and I ordered vanilla and
followed his advice, and perhaps a little impressed at my
caramel. He said that he preferred Slovak ice cream,
bargaining skills. I know that I will think of Carter
perhaps because the flavors were not so intense. We
whenever I wear it.
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Hlavné Námestie
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As we walked back up the hill toward the tower, we found ourselves on lonely streets, the elegant buildings cracked and crumbling. Many of them were defaced with graffiti.
Just before 5:00, we returned to the station for the train to Vienna.
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When we walked into the hotel, Jen was standing in the doorway. She told us that we had five minutes to change for dinner. We were down in record time, and shared a taxi with Lindsay to Grinzing. Jen had made reservations for a celebratory dinner for her ICO team at Zum Martin Sepp. It was a long but festive evening with much discussion about wines and meal choices, made more complicated by the fact that it was Spargel Wochen (white asparagus season). Carter charmed the group completely.
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Tuesday, June 9
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to Stuttgart, Germany
While Jen tied up her final business at the European
got my bag down from the storage area, carried it from
Ophthalmology Congress, Carter and I finished packing
Track 13 to the train on Track 21, and set it down at my
and got ready to leave. We had a quick lunch across the
seat. Such acts of kindness are never forgotten. Thank
street from the hotel and were back in time to meet Jen
you, Ross from Houston, Texas. The two-hour ride to
and jump in a taxi to the Westbahnhof. From there, Jen
Stuttgart passed more picturesque villages, each with the
and Carter left for Hallstatt, a UNESCO-designated
distinctive onion-domed church that is typical of
cultural landscape dating to 2,000 years BC, and I went
southern Germany. It was just after 9:00 PM when the
ahead to Stuttgart to see Dagmar and Klaus for a few
train pulled into Stuttgart’s main station. Dagmar and
extra days. We will meet up again on Friday. My train
Klaus were there to meet me with hugs and laughs. It
departed at 2:30 to Munich, a four-hour trip though
was wonderful to see them again. Stuttgart looks just as
Salzburg that took us past mountain villages and rolling
it did three years ago when I was last here—still
green hills. Most of the chalet-styled buildings I saw had
completely torn up, as Klaus declared it would be for
flower boxes overflowing with color. The ICE train was
another ten years. They said they would be using
quiet and smooth; a monitor showed our speed, which
walkers by the time the downtown plan has been
was 230 km/hour in places. In Munich, I had to change
completed. Once home in Gerlingen, Klaus opened a
trains for Stuttgart. I am not sure how I would have ever
special bottle of Riesling, Dagmar set out meats and
managed to get my heavy bag from one train to the other
cheese, and we sat around the table and talked until
if it had not been for a solid young American guy who
midnight.
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Wednesday, June 10
Gerlingen, Germany
Although the bed was comfortable and the rolladen lowered
shopped for cheeses, meats, and desserts for the kids, I
to create a sleep-inducing cave, I had a restless night. I
roamed the aisles. After loading their purchases in the back
learned that Dagmar and Klaus had not slept well either;
of the car, we stopped for lunch in Lauterbourg. The
Klaus maintained that the white wine we had enjoyed last
attractive little village was virtually closed down today, but
night had set off our adrenalin. It was cloudy and cool; a
we found the Hotel du Cygne restaurant open. We all
London-like chill had replaced Vienna’s heat. Since Dagmar
ordered Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart) with a small salad and a
wanted to buy some special foods for the weekend, Klaus
glass of local white wine. It felt wonderful to be in the
drove us to the nearest Carrefour store across the French
company of my friends again. We followed the B-10
border. We took the autobahn to Karlsruhe and crossed the
through Karlsruhe, where the Starks had their first
Rhine to the border village of Lauterbourg; Carrefour is
apartment. They pointed out the modern city that has
located in nearby Scheibenhard. While Dagmar and Klaus
grown up since they lived there more than forty years ago.
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The drive took us along the Bertha Benz Memorial Drive, route of the world's first long distance road trip. Bertha’s husband, Karl Benz, had patented the first automobile designed to produce its own power in January 1886. In early August 1888, without her husband's knowledge, Bertha, with her young sons Richard and Eugen, drove in Benz's newly-constructed automobile from Mannheim to Pforzheim, a distance of 65 miles. She thus became the first person to drive an automobile more than a very short distance. Although the ostensible purpose of her trip was to visit her mother, Bertha proved to her husband that his automobile had the potential to become a financial success.
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“No cake is no solution”
In Rutesheim, we stopped for coffee and lemony quark cake at Café Philippin before returning home. Needless to say, there were no big appetites for dinner; the three of us had a light supper and turned in early. 55
Thursday, June 11
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Gerlingen, Germany
I awoke to a cool sunny morning; the birds were singing
to decide which ones to buy. We also visited a butcher
in Dagmar’s rose garden. Klaus and I had breakfast
shop that would have made Jake’s mouth water. Back at
together while Dagmar went for a beauty treatment.
home, we prepared for Dagmar’s guests to sit outside at
When she returned, we drove to Ditzingen to buy cakes
the table in the garden. Her friends arrived at 3:30: Heti,
for this afternoon’s coffee party. This once rough town,
Lili, Christine Beerbaum, and Gisela Grünwald. It was
eight miles from Stuttgart, has grown into a lovely little
great to see them again after the three years since my last
village as a result of the money generated by several large
visit. Conversation floated back and forth between
companies that have located there, including Trumpf, one
German and English. Klaus returned soon after we
of the world’s biggest manufacturers of machine tools.
gathered, bringing Hanna Sophie, while Vivi was having
Half-timbered buildings have been restored and winding
her hair cut. She is almost one and is an adorable baby.
bike paths created. Dagmar told me that she and Klaus
The afternoon passed quickly and after the guests left,
like to ride their bikes there and stop for coffee and cake
Dagmar and I sat outside and talked. Those are the
at one of the cafés that line the cobblestone street. The
conversations that I so look forward to and treasure long
Konditorei was a showcase of amazing cakes; it was hard
after they are over.
An afternoon with old friends Gisela GrĂźnwald Heti Lutz Christine Beerbaum Lilli Kuschnir Dagmar Stark
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One of my Stuttgart friends whom I was particularly happy to see at Dagmar’s party was Christine Beerbaum. Since the last time I saw her, she had lost her beloved husband, Fred, to cancer. I have known Christine nearly as long as I have known Dagmar, and although her English is not much better than my German, we have always had a deep understanding of each other. Her words of appreciation for my friendship and the gift of my Hearts book that brought Fred such pleasure towards the end of his life needed no translation. And her gift to me of one of Fred’s paintings is a precious memento of a brave and elegant man.
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Friday, June 12
Gerlingen
This morning Dagmar and I walked from the village along a short footpath to the home of Gisela GrĂźnwald to see her enchanting oil paintings. Her subjects are primarily scenes of the south of France and flowers. At one time, she painted porcelain rather than canvas. I have several pieces of Ludwigsburg porcelain that she painted for me long ago when I lived in Stuttgart, featuring flowers, insects, and butterflies. Lovely examples of her work were recently gathered into a perpetual calendar called Mood Paintings. We enjoyed seeing her work and sitting outside on her balcony, surrounded by the flowers and butterflies that provide her inspiration.
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We returned to the house to get the car, as we were to meet Christine Klug at CafĂŠ Alte Kanzlei, one of the few places I still recognize in downtown Stuttgart. Christine was a favorite friend when I lived in Stuttgart in the mid-1980s and it was lovely to sit outside on the square, under an umbrella, and catch up with the last three years. After lunch, Dagmar and I went to Breuninger, the Stuttgart-based department store that is a must-stop for me. We both came away with several pretty blouses and tops, made in Germany. It is always such a treat to shop there.
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On the way home, Dagmar stopped so that I could run in to a little shop with the sign, “Antiquitäten, Kitsch, Kunst, Trödel.” I think that I will always be seeking those happy days of antiquing in Germany, but I am afraid those times are gone. No one is collecting the way we did. I think that this shop had not been cleaned or tidied since the time when I lived here. It was piled high with junk, much of it teetering ominously over my head. Somewhere in the piles, I found a little old man who was the proprietor. I hoped to find some tiny treasure to remind me of those earlier days. I left with a small working lock and key that looks a couple of hundred years old.
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After a supper of bread, meat, and cheese in the garden, Klaus and I went to the train station to meet Jen and Carter. Their ICE train arrived from Munich just after 10:00. Carter was wearing a FC Bayern Munich ensemble that they had bought at the Mega Store at the Allianz Arena.
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And what were Jen and Carter doing while I was in Stuttgart?
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Tuesday, June 9
Hallstatt, Austria
While I traveled to Stuttgart, Carter and Jen took the train
rather than in an annex that was farther away. They
to Achtang Puchheim and changed to Hallstatt, arriving
enjoyed a walk around the village as the fog was rolling in.
late in the afternoon. At the station, they went by boat over
Dinner that night was at the Seehotel GrĂźner Baum, where
to this UNESCO village. Carter said that the trip was chilly
Carter had roast pork with potato dumplings and
and cloudy, but very pretty. They checked into the
sauerkraut that he said was delicious. Jen enjoyed the local
Heritage Hotel, which he said was very nice although they
smoked trout and a nice Riesling. When they came back to
wished that they could have stayed in the main building
the hotel, they watched some of the Women’s World Cup.
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Hallstatt 68
Wednesday, June 10
to Munich, Germany
Before they left Hallstatt, Jen and Carter walked around
miles an hour, which he said was close to the correct speed,
the village and bought some gifts, stopping for lunch at an
according to the guide. They visited the Charnel House,
outside cafĂŠ. Jen said that the fish, fresh from the
located in a chapel in the basement of the 12th century
Hallstätter See, was delicious; Carter opted for spaghetti.
Church of St. Michael. The Hallstatt Bone House is one of
They walked to the funicular that took them up more than
most remarkable collections of painted skulls anywhere.
850 meters to the 7,000-year-old Salzwelten, the oldest salt
They took the little boat back to the village, and then went
mine in the world. It also boasts the longest underground
by train to Rosenheim, Germany, where Jen’s friend
slide. Carter reported that he was clocked going almost 35
Cordula picked them up at the station.
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Thursday, June 11
Munich, Germany
In the morning, Jen and Carter walked through pretty
construction with inflated fluorine-based plastic panels, it is
Ebersburg Market Square, where they passed the Rathaus,
the first stadium in the world with a total color-changing
or town hall, once a monastery tavern. Cordula took them
exterior. Carter left the Mega Store with a full uniform, ball,
to see the Eisbach surfers, lined up to catch a wave in this
candy, and a gift for his friend Tommy. Returning to the
“ice brook” in the middle of Munich. Caused by an
city, they had lunch in a Biergarten near the Marienplatz,
engineering flaw, the popular spot is for experienced
Munich’s main square since 1158. They climbed the 300
surfers only, since the fast current in combination with the
steps of the Neues Rathaus tower where they saw its famous
concrete baffles can be a threat to board and body. From
Glockenspiel, consisting of 43 bells and 32 life-sized figures.
there they took the U-Bahn to Allianz Arena, the home of
Every day, it chimes and re-enacts two stories from the 16th
FC Bayern Munich. The VIP tour, arranged by Cordula,
century. That night, Cordula and her family treated Jen and
was a real highlight for Carter. Widely known for its
Carter to a picnic and swim at the lake.
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Friday, June 12
to Stuttgart, Germany
After breakfast at the Obermaier’s house, they drove though
of Frauenchiemsee, they visited the Benedictine monastery,
Wasserberg to Prien, located on the Chiemsee, Bavaria’s
which dates from the 8th century. After stopping for lunch,
largest lake. Jen and Carter took the ferry out to Herren to
they walked to the other side of the island where they went
see the royal residence of King Ludwig II of Bavaria
for a swim. They enjoyed seeing the sailboats on the lake
(1845-1886). The opulent buildings are the culmination of his
and checking out the art galleries in the village. The ferry
legacy of architecture and art and are among Germany’s
brought them back to Prien and from there, they returned to
most important tourist attractions. At the neighboring island
Ebersberg for the train to Stuttgart.
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Saturday, June 13
Back together in Gerlingen, Germany
We had a lazy morning, sleeping until after 9:00. Carter and I
and Em at the grocery store. We were passed several times by
went to get his glasses fixed, and after dropping them at the
a horse wagon; at one point it stopped near us and Dagmar
optik, we joined Dagmar and Jen and went to the Saturday
encouraged us to climb aboard for a little tour of the village.
market in the town square. While Dagmar shopped for treats
She pointed out the soccer playground and skateboard park
for this evening’s dinner, Jen and I bought local rapeseed
located across from the swimming pool. They really do have
flower honey. We also found Ritter Sport chocolate for Mike
all that they need, only a few steps from home.
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Returning home, we waited for the rest of the Stark Family to arrive. Anselm and his three boys, Kilian, Marwin, and Esken came first. Soon after came Wilko, Julia, and their three children, Alexia, Emmy, and Henrik; followed by Eike and Anna with Maxi and Lottie. Finally came Vivi and little Hanna (Benni had gone fishing). What a crowd nine grandchildren make! All the kids were running and tumbling over each other. I was quite pleased with myself that I managed to get everyone to pose for a family photo.
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Carter, Jen, and I decided to leave the family to spend time with each other and accepted an offer from Dagmar to drive us to the Mercedes Museum. It is a remarkable combination of history, architecture, and beautiful automobiles. More than a chronicle of the Mercedes-Benz Company, the museum offers a cultural history of Europe. And the views of the stadium and arena, surrounding vineyards, and the Stuttgart environs were breathtaking. Our only disappointment was that the simulator was closed by the time we got to the lower level. 82
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We treated ourselves to a taxi back to Gerlingen, arriving just in time for a traditional dinner of maultaschen and German potato salad, again served in the garden. Anselm and the older boys were there, and I enjoyed the opportunity to get to know Kilian and Marwin. Later, the generations separated: the younger kids went up to Wilko’s home; Kilian and Marwin headed off to call their friends; the young adults congregated at the neighborhood Biergarten. Klaus, Dagmar, and I sat around together and chatted late into the evening.
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Sunday, June 14-Monday, June 15
Gerlingen and Home
At 9:00, we left the house for Stadtkirche zu Ludwigburg
play park where the kids took off in every direction and
for the baptism of Hanna Sophie Köhler, daughter of
the adults sat on benches and talked together. At four
Vivianne Stark and Benni Köhler. Hanna is the ninth
o’clock, we walked back to the hotel where a special cake
grandchild of Dagmar and Klaus Stark, and the daughter
was served, in honor of Hanna Sophie. The afternoon
of their youngest child. Hanna’s godparents are Anselm
came to a close when Eike and his family returned to
Stark, Vivi’s brother, and Angela Köhler, Benni’s sister.
Cologne and Wilko and Julia and their three children
The service lasted an hour, with the baptism at the end.
headed home. Dagmar and Klaus drove Carter, Jen, and
Hanna was one of five babies to be baptized that
me back to the condo, followed by Anselm and his boys.
morning, but she assuredly had the most family members
Carter was delighted when Klaus offered to take anyone
present. Although the priest, Elke Dangelmaier-Vinçon,
who was interested swimming at an indoor pool facility.
conducted the service in German, she gave a kind
The boys all went and did not return until after I had
welcome to me in English. After the service, the family
gone to bed, since my alarm was set for 3:00AM. Klaus
walked a short distance past Ludwigburg Palace to the
drove me to the airport for my 6:00 Air Berlin turboprop
Nestor Hotel, where the patio had been reserved for the
to Düsseldorf. From there, I connected with American
Stark family celebration. We spent a leisurely afternoon
Airlines 241 to Chicago, arriving a couple of hours late
there, enjoying excellent food and wine, watching the
amidst raging thunderstorms. Jen and Carter left a few
children running around the grounds, and chatting with
hours after I did, flying back to Washington. I know how
one another. After dessert, we all walked to the nearby
excited Carter and Jen were to see Rowen again!
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Stadtkirche zu Ludwigburg
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Wilko and Julia
Anselm
Eike and Anna 93
The Stark Grandchildren Kilian Marwin Esken Alexia Emilie Henrik Maxi Lotte Hanna
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Carter and Esken
A journal kept by Susan Hanes for her grandson, Carter Houston Hanes during a trip they made to Austria and Germany from June 5-June 15, 2015. Photos by Susan Hanes with contributions by Jen and Carter Hanes. copyright 2015. 96