China 3: the Silk Road and Beyond
A journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip through China from April 9— May 14, 2017. Volume 3. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, c. 2017 Cover: Longmen Caves; Background: Arrowsmith China
China 3: the Silk Road and Beyond May 1 — May 7, 2017 After the Grolier Club tour, we continued our travels independently, pursuing Buddhist sites and China’s Silk Road, from Datong to Kashgar
Volume 3
Monday, May 1
to Datong, Shanxi Province
I set the alarm to go off at 2:45 am and unfortunately, it did. We were down in the lobby at 4:00 and 30 minutes later, our taxi delivered us to Beijing Capital International Airport for our 6:50 am China Airlines flight to Datong. After waiting in a long line to check in, we found the rest of the process extremely efficient. A train carries passengers to specific gate areas and it is there that a rigorous security procedure takes place. The terminal was eerily quiet when we arrived at our departure gate but at the scheduled boarding time, a mass of people suddenly appeared and we pushed back from the gate ten minutes early.
I immediately fell asleep and only woke up when the wheels touched down in Datong one hour later. Our guide, Wang Xiaohai, was there to meet us, whisking us through the terminal to a Ford van that was waiting nearby. Introducing himself as “Kingston,� he gave us an introduction as we drove through town. Datong, with a population of 3.5 million, is a major coal-producer. It has a long history as one of the nine ancient capitals of China. Located near the Great Wall Pass to Inner Mongolia, it was a stopping off point for camel caravans traveling from China into Mongolia and beyond.
The Yungang Caves, located 16 km west of Datong, are a collection of shallow grottoes that contain over 50,000 carved images of the Buddha and of bodhisattvas, ranging in size from four centimeters to seven meters. Most of these sculptures date from 450-500 AD. The caves, which are a UNESCO World Heritage site, comprise one of the three most famous ancient Buddhist sculptural sites of China. (The others are at Longmen and Mogao, which we also plan to visit.) Far different than when Jake visited in 1979, the area around the caves has been transformed into an extensive compound with parking lots, a visitor center, restaurants, shops, and extended landscaped grounds, some of which are traversed with 10passenger electric shuttle vehicles. On this May 1st, the last day of the three-day May Day holiday, Chinese couples and multigenerational families were out together, enjoying the fine weather and a day off.
Yungang Caves a UNESCO site
We are shaped by our thoughts; We become what we think. When the mind is pure, joy follows Like a shadow that never leaves. —The Buddha
Heading back into town, we visited the Shanhua Temple, a peaceful Buddhist complex, dating from the 12th century. The main hall contains five large and colorful Buddha sculptures.
We also stopped to see the Nine Dragon Screen, a striking 45 meter-long relief created in multicolored glazed tiles, similar to the screen in the Forbidden City.
Encircled by high walls, the old town of Datong is undergoing major demolition and restoration, as traditional Shanxi residences known as siheyuan are being restored to their former grace. We are staying in one of these old homes. The Yunzhong Inn consists of a traditional a courtyard surrounded by buildings on all four sides and bound by a high wall. Our room has a tile floor and a painted beamed ceiling. Cloth slippers, tea, and fruit add a warm touch. The toilet practically requires an engineering degree to operate, with
numerous seat warming and water spurting options to suit every need and whim. Around the corner from the Inn, we had dinner at Fenglinge Shaomai, a venue that is said to be 500 years old. The interior design is striking, with dark, heavily-carved woodwork. We ordered the specialty, shaomai dumplings, culinary works of art created with paper-thin dough that resemble flowers. Kingston ordered for us before departing for cheaper fare. Although we enjoyed a substantial meal with beer and baijiu, it cost less than $30.
Yunzhong Inn
Fenglinge Shaomai
Tuesday, May 2
to Pingyao, Shanxi Province
We breakfasted alone in the Inn’s quiet courtyard, glassed over to create a sunroom, filled with plants and surrounded by carved teak doorways. Our host brought a single plate for each of us, containing an artfully cut sausage and delicate fruit segments carefully arranged around a fried egg. Kingston met us promptly at 8:30 and we walked through Datong’s old town to the parking area where our car was waiting. It was an hour and a half drive to the Hanging Monastery, located 65 km southeast of Datong. The temple dates from the Northern Wei dynasty (386-534). It is the only existing temple that honors the three traditional Chinese religions of Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. The temple is most notable for its improbable setting 75 meters above ground in a small
canyon basin. It looks as if it is hanging from the cliff side, buttressed by what appear to be insubstantial thin pilings. However, the main supportive structure is actually hidden inside the bedrock. The building hangs from the middle of the cliff under the summit of Mount Heng, which protects the temple from erosion and sunlight. While Jake waited below, Kingston led me up the steep stone stairs to the entrance of the monastery structure and then left me to make my own way up the narrow steps and along constricted passageways. I snaked my way to the top and down again. Although I saw no other westerners, the monastery was filled with Chinese tourists who frequently stopped for selfies. As I carefully made my way off the cliff face, I felt quite pleased with myself.
Hanging Monastery
We drove on another 20 km to the town of Yingxian (where Kingston lives) to see its Wood Pagoda, built in 1056 during the Liao dynasty (916-1125). It is one of the oldest wooden buildings in China and was originally made entirely without nails. Swarms of swallows circle the structure, ensuring that no woodworm damage occurs. The pagoda is octagonal and has nine stories; the tower is nearly 70 meters high. Kingston pointed out that the one surviving Buddha in an associated temple hall has facial hair, characteristic of
Yingxian
the northern ethnic groups that came to power when the pagoda was constructed. While Kingston and the driver took a lunch break, I looked in the windows of antiques shops that framed the pagoda square. In one shop, I found a pile of the small comic-type books of Chinese classical literature that we had seen in the children’s library at Kongfz.com in Beijing. It was 1:40 when we got on Da Yun Highway towards Pingyao, passing photogenic terraced fields as we drove through the area of the Yan Men Pass.
Kingston
After stopping for gas outside Shanxi’s capital city, Taiyuan, we continued south for another 100 km to Pingyao, arriving at 6:30 pm. A UNESCO site, the ancient city has a history that dates back some 2,700 years. Since cars are prohibited within the old city walls, an electric cart sped us down narrow alleys filled with pedestrians, motor scooters, and bicycles and dropped us off near Jing’s Residence, where we are staying this evening. Nestled among curio shops and street vendors, this 267-year-old classic Chinese inn was once the courtyard residence of a silk merchant during the Qing
dynasty (1644-1911). Today, the Inn exudes serenity and classical simplicity. Our wellappointed room, “Bamboo 2,” has a traditional low platform kang bed and original calligraphic paintings. Each of the Inn’s three courtyards is illuminated by large white lanterns that give the whole place an enchanted look. We had dinner in the tranquil dining room, sharing local specialties such as cucumber with cloud mushrooms in aged vinegar, honey-glazed chicken with fresh ginger, and stir-fried beef tenderloin in black pepper sauce.
The moon's reflected on the river a few feet away, A lantern shines in the night near the third watch. On the sand, egrets sleep, peacefully curled together, Behind the boat I hear the splash of jumping fish. —Du Fu
Wednesday, May 3
En Route to Luoyang
Our good fortune with the weather finally gave out. We awoke to a sprinkle that worked itself into a soft rain. Prior to meeting Kingston at 10:30, we walked on our own in the area near the central City Tower, down old lanes lined with shops selling aged Shanxi vinegar and food stands offering noodles, candies, and other foods that were difficult to identify. Red lanterns hung outside weathered doors decorated with red and black holiday posters. A profusion of colorful umbrellas was reflected in the wet stone streets. Kingston led us to the North Tower, one of the watchtower entrances into the Ming-era walls that encircle the city. An electric cart took us to the sprawling County Yaman complex, where the city’s administrative bureaucracy was formerly housed. During the Qing dynasty, Pingyao was a major financial center, handling more than 80 million ounces of silver annually. We went through the Rishengchang, established in 1824 as China’s first bank and now a financial museum. It was also one of the first places in the
world to issue checks. Dowager Empress Cixi came to Pinyao in 1900 to arrange loans to pay off her army. Her default on those loans proved to be the end of Pingyao’s banks, and China’s financial centers moved to Hong Kong and Shanghai. When Kingston left for lunch, we walked back to the hotel through persistent rain. Jake went inside to dry off and I walked around on my own, taking pictures and looking into the shops. At one, a young couple with their sleeping baby was selling bone bookmarks with Chinese sayings carved on them. At no additional cost, the husband would carve a requested name on the back of the bookmark. He made four for my grandchildren and six more for Jake’s family. At 3:30 we left the hotel, warmed by the smiles and bows of the attentive staff. Our final ride in the electric cart was as unnerving as the others. We marveled at the way the driver missed oncoming vehicles by inches and flew around blind corners using a single honk to avoid disaster.
Pingyao
a UNESCO site
the Rishengchang
The Qiao Family Mansion lies 25 km northeast of Pingyao in the hamlet of Leguan Zhen. We reached it in about an hour. The 18th century mansion, with its maze of courtyards, tiled roofs, and carved details, has been the location of several Chinese TV shows and was the setting of Zhang Yimou’s film, Raise the Red Lantern. Sadly, what we imagined would be an evocative recreation of that haunting film is now a major tourist attraction, no longer hidden down a narrow lane, but set in a large park with a boulevard of statues, gardens, a children’s playground, and numerous food stands. Additionally, the exit route forces visitors through a kilometer-long market, with vendors selling an assortment of curios. It was fun to see the place where Raise the Red Lantern was filmed, but overall, we were disappointed.
The Qiao Family Mansion Leguan Zhen
At 7:00 pm, we arrived in Taiyuan, a vibrant city of 3.5 million and Shanxi’s provincial capital. Since our train to Luoyang was not until 11:30 pm, we had a leisurely dinner at Shanxi Huiguan, a lively restaurant that serves northern Chinese cuisine. We sat at a corner table with a good view of the room. Over local beer, we tried several Shanxi dishes, the most interesting of which was an oat noodle recipe that is said to have been developed during the Sui dynasty, some 1,400 years ago. The noodles were made into small rolls that were covered with a lamb and mushroom sauce. During our meal, several singers, dressed in traditional Chinese costumes, performed. An amazing noodle-making demonstration followed in which a mound of dough was deftly—and theatrically—worked into a delicate web of thin noodles. At 10:00 pm, Kingston took us to the train station for the 12-hour trip to Luoyang. When we saw that the escalator down to the train platform was out of order and that we would be forced to negotiate four long flights of crowded stairs with our bags, we were very concerned. However, Kingston was able to prevail upon officials to secure a platform pass and to assist us to our compartment in our K Class “soft sleeper” train.
Thursday, May 4
Luoyang, Henan Province
We slept surprisingly well in our narrow beds, relieved that we had booked all four bunks in our compartment. I cannot imagine having to share it with anyone else, as it was a challenge even for the two of us with our limited luggage. (I will not get into the further challenge of using a squat toilet on a moving train.) I looked out of the window and was impressed to see extensive terracing that enabled agricultural fields to be shaped from the steep and rocky hills. When the train pulled into Luoyang at 11:30 am, we were dismayed to discover that the platform had no escalator to the station. We were forced to struggle with our bags down three flights of stairs and then drag them back up again at the end of the corridor. Just as we neared the top, our guide found us. Ms. Zhang Wei, known as “Vivian,� led us out to a waiting van. The driver, Mr. Li, hoisted our bags over his head as if they weighed nothing to slip them through a gap in the fence. Luoyang, with a population of 1.4 million, was the prosperous capital of China during 13 dynasties, including the resplendent Tang (618-907). Today, it is known as the Peony Capital of China and for its location near the Longman Caves.
The caves, a UNESCO site, contain some of the finest examples of Buddhist art in China. Housing tens of thousands of statues of Buddha and his disciples, the 2,345 caves stretch for nearly a kilometer on both sides of the Yi River and were excavated from the limestone cliffs of the surrounding mountains. The carvings were commissioned by emperors, wealthy families, generals, and religious groups who petitioned for blessings and good fortune. Unlike those that we had seen in Datong, the carvings at the Longman Caves are mostly of the Tang era (400 years later) and are more elaborate and decorative. Today, a large, landscaped park has been developed near the caves, with a willowlined path along the river. We spent several hours viewing the extraordinary carvings and enjoying the sunny day and Vivian’s bright company.
Peony Jade
Longmen Caves a UNESCO site
Seven kilometers south of Luoyang is the Guanlin Miao, a redwalled temple complex set in a peaceful compound, scented by incense and the constant burning of paper “gold bullion.” The temple is dedicated to General Guan Di, who in 220 was captured and beheaded by the King of Wu. Guan Di has become a patron figure to the military, to the police—and to members of the criminal underworld. Stone lions line the path to the main hall, each adorned with a wreath of red and gold ribbons.
Guanlin Miao
At 4:00, we checked into Christian’s Hotel, located in an old section of the city. We were warmly welcomed by a solicitous staff and served hot tea as we checked in. As soon as we were settled into our large suite, the doorbell rang and someone appeared with a tray containing peony tea, cookies, fruit, a small gift, and a little stand bearing the flags of China and the United States. Vivian and Mr. Li picked us up at 6:30 for dinner at Lao Luoyang Mian Guan near Wangcheng Park, where we ordered local dumplings and Henan noodles in a corn soup base. Luoyang is well-known for its shuixi, a water-based
Vivian
meal that can have as many as 24 courses, and we tried a shuixi soup dish of eggs and mushrooms. Over dinner, Vivian told us about herself. Born during the “one child” period in China, her parents gave her up to be raised by her grandmother so that they could try to conceive a son. This made it nearly impossible for Vivian to get the ID card and other documentation that she would need to get a college education. Her grandfather was eventually able to help her, but it was not until 2012 that she received her ID card.
Friday, May 5
to Xian, Shaanxi Province
Vivian and Mr. Li were in the lobby at 7:00 am to take us to the rail station. They seemed amused at the fanfare that accompanied our departure. Several hotel staff members escorted us to the parking area, expressing enthusiastic good-byes and presenting me with a toy stuffed lamb as a farewell gift. At the rail station, we were relieved to find an operating escalator to the platform. Our D Class high-speed train arrived precisely at 8:43 am. However, we were surprised to discover that there was no luggage space in the otherwise well-appointed car. We sat with our bags crammed in front of us, allowing little legroom for the two-hour trip to Xian. When we arrived at the waiting area at Xian’s new North Rail Station, a bubbly young woman ran up and threw her arms around Jake. This was Zhang Li Hui, aka “Judy,” our guide for the next two days. Talking nonstop, she led us to a waiting VW Passat. Our driver, Mr. Zhou, had a challenge squeezing our luggage into the trunk. We encountered China’s serious pollution problem for the first time during our ride to see the famous Terracotta Army. The sky was a dirty grey and visibility was greatly reduced. We realized how fortunate
we had been to have clear skies in Beijing and Shanghai. The Terracotta Army is located in an extensive concrete tourist complex designed to facilitate the movement of tour groups and their flag-bearing guides through the vaults harboring the warriors and to enhance sales at adjacent restaurants and souvenir stalls. However, once we reached Vault 1, my negative thoughts disappeared. As much as I had heard about the Terracotta Army, I was still deeply impressed by the sight of the thousands of warriors assembled in battle formation. It is justifiably one of the most famous archeological sites in the world and considered by many to be the most memorable sight in China. Created over 2,000 years ago to guard the tomb of Emperor Qin Shi Huang, the Army was discovered in 1974 by a farmer digging a well. We worked our way around the perimeter of Vault 1 before visiting two smaller vaults where we observed excavations in progress. In the adjacent museum, we had the opportunity to see several warrior figures up close, noting the details in their faces (no two are alike) and clothing; even the soles of their shoes were marked with tiny individual designs.
Emperor Qin Shi Huang’s Tomb a UNESCO site
We returned to the car as it was nearing 2:00 and drove back to the city. Xian has served as the imperial capital of China for eleven dynasties. In addition to its rich history and numerous tourist sites, we found that it is an attractive city of treelined streets, parks, and modern Chinese architecture. Near the 16th century city walls, we visited the Beilin Museum of steles, housed in a converted Confucian temple. In four halls, we examined fine examples of Chinese calligraphy carved into monumental stone tablets. I enjoyed watching school groups carefully studying the work of the ancient masters and taking photos with their iPhones. It was satisfying to see this classic Chinese art being appreciated by younger generations. In the last hall, we watched as several men made rubbings from the steles, brushing paper over the carvings and tamping viscous ink on them with twine-tied daubers. We bought a book of rubbings of the work of Wang Xizhi (303–361), a writer and government official who many regard as China’s greatest calligrapher.
Nestorian Stele
It was 5:30 pm when we checked into the People’s Grand Hotel, part of Sofitel’s stunning Legend group. The hotel opened two years ago in a beautifully renovated 1953 building that was once operated by the Chinese government to accommodate visiting dignitaries. When we saw how attractively the lobby was appointed, we changed our dinner plans and spent the evening enjoying free drinks and appetizers in the lobby lounge.
We were certainly lucky, with eight days of perfect weather when we were in Beijing. The air quality there was 500 today.
Saturday, May 6
Xian
We met Judy at 8:30 for the two-hour drive to Famen Temple, located 125 km west of Xian. Although we took a short cut down a series of narrow back streets in the Muslim Quarter (home to more than 80,000 Muslims) and then followed the wide main street through the city gates, it took nearly 45 minutes to clear town and get on the tollway heading west. At 10:30, we arrived at the vast Famen Temple complex, containing the Visitor Center, True Relic Pagoda, Grand Hall of the Great Sage, Namaste Dagoba, and a museum. Judy told us that it is 4 kilometers from the parking area to the Dagoba. The site dates from the second century and was built to house a sacred finger bone of the Buddha that was presented to the Chinese Emperor by King Asoka of India. A 10-passenger electric shuttle took us halfway down a broad 1.5 km long avenue lined with a series of 15-meter high golden statues of various bodhisattvas. Beneath the 12-story pagoda, we looked though a small window to glimpse the crypt that once held the precious relic. The nearby museum contains an impressive collection of Tang dynasty artifacts that were also discovered in the crypt. Judy and I walked up the wide steps to the 148-meter-high Namaste Dagoba, a massive structure topped by a gold colored assemblage that resembles stylized praying hands.
Donning shoe covers, we entered the hall where the finger of the Buddha is now encased in a gold and crystal jade reliquary. An altar filled with flowers, fruits, cakes, and candles was set up below it; a monk recited sutras over a microphone and periodically struck a large metal bowl with a mallet. I stood silently, absorbing the atmosphere of worship and prayer. We met Jake at the bottom of the steps and took the shuttle back to the Visitor Center at 12:30. However, in order to exit, it took us 45 minutes to traverse a maze of halls and corridors that forced us to pass by a seemingly endless line of shops selling beads, jade, wooden swords, ceramics, and other assorted souvenirs. Back in the car, we took back roads through the Shaanxi countryside, passing small farming communities. Modest, well-kept houses were interspersed with small commercial districts. We saw apple orchards, vineyards, and fields of wheat, and learned from Judy that the plastic bags that were hanging from trees protect the developing fruit from birds. Before getting on the tollway, our driver stopped for gas. We thought we would stay in the car but were told that his car had been modified to accept cheaper natural gas, and that in China it is illegal to remain in the car when natural gas is pumped.
Famen Buddhist Temple
Judy
Adding my name to the list of temple subscribers
As we had a couple of hours before dinner, I used them to explore the hotel. At the gift shop, I got into a conversation with a sales lady named Jia, and made a warm connection with her. She told me that the Chinese concept for such a connection is yuan fen. She seemed impressed that we had been in China for four weeks and was surprised that we had visited the Beilin Museum yesterday and that I was familiar with the name of Wang Xizhi, China’s great calligrapher. She showed me a calligraphy brush that had Wang’s words inscribed on it, but I settled instead for a pair of silver earrings. At 6:30, our driver picked us up for an evening at Xian’s Tang Dynasty dinner theater. We arrived early and were seated near the front next to Maureen and Bryan Smith, a couple from Australia who were also traveling independently. The dumpling dinner was nothing to speak of but we were pleasantly surprised by the performance that, according to a guidebook, is “too gaudy for most tastes.” The show featured traditional music and dancing and was enhanced by colorful costumes and dramatic lighting. Afterwards, we met Maureen and Bryan for coffee at our hotel, where we are both staying.
Sunday, May 7
to Dunhuang, Gansu Province
Our airport pickup time was 7:30 am for our 10:25 China Eastern flight to Jiayuguan. Originally, we were to fly directly to Dunhuang but authorities decided to close the airport for several months so as to enhance its facilities for increased tourism. On the way to the airport, Judy presented us with the gift of a heavy lacquered table screen in a bulky box. Although her gesture was very nice, it brought to mind my mother’s story of being given a giant bouquet of flowers and a beaded ostrich egg with a gilt stand just as she was boarding the plane to leave Johannesburg. I managed to stuff the screen into my already bulging carry-on by taking out a jacket and wearing it over the one I already had on. We fortunately arrived at Xianyang International Airport with plenty of time to spare for we encountered time-consuming complications involving overweight luggage and additional security screenings. The plane pushed back at 11:00, a half hour late. I found myself seated next to a friendly woman who shook my hand, took a photo of the two of us with her phone, and immediately sent it off to someone. Evidently, there are not many westerners flying to Jiayuguan. By 1:45 we had landed, retrieved our bags, and stepped into the arrivals hall where Su Juan, or “Spring,” was waiting for us. The
necessity of flying into Jiayuguan enabled us to visit its ancient fort, five kilometers west of the city. On the way, Spring gave us an introduction to the area. Gansu Province has a population of 26 million. Jiayuguan, its richest city, has 300,000 inhabitants and was developed in 1958 by the government as a steelmaking town. Most of the other cities in the province are agricultural, primarily raising cotton and wheat, but in Jiayuguan nearly three-quarters of its inhabitants work in the steel industry. The area is rimmed by the Badain Jaran Desert to the north and by the permanently snowcapped Qilian Mountains to the south, creating a narrow strip of arid but navigable land known as the Hexi Corridor. Historically, control of the Corridor meant control of Silk Road trade. Everything that moved from the deserts of Central Asia to China’s central plain had to travel through the Corridor. The Jiayuguan Fort, initially built by the Ming in 1372, was the most westerly part of the Great Wall and traditionally viewed as Han China’s western border. We entered through the eastern gate of the newly restored fort and walked its length to the western gate where Spring and I climbed the steps and walked along the top of the perimeter wall.
Jiayuguan Fort
Jiayu Pass
Dunhuang
Mingsha Sand Dunes After visiting the Great Wall Museum on the grounds, we returned to the car and at 4:00 commenced the 400 km drive to Dunhuang across desolate desert. We checked into the Silk Road Dunhuang Hotel at 8:25 pm and immediately went to the rooftop restaurant to try to catch the sunset. Although we missed the sunset, the alpenglow view over the Gobi Desert’s giant Mingsha Sand Dunes was impressive. The wind-carved edges of the dunes, some rising over 1,700 meters, looked like some kind of futuristic architecture.
A journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip through China from April 9—May 14, 2017. Volume 3. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, c. 2017
Volume 3