RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE ISSUE 8/2021 by RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK MAGAZINE

DEAR READERS

ver the last few decades, the international RR world has seen a number of publications come and go, and some that have stayed. Some have been very full of paid-for advertising, others with a heavier emphasis on editorial, both interviews and articles.

In July 2019, the RREu Magazine emerged on the scene. A glossy magazine with a slightly different aim; to provide a platform for all RR enthusiasts, from all disciplines and all walks of life. A magazine that could be enjoyed by all Ridgeback lovers, from all over the world. Breeders. Owners. Handlers. Show aficionados. People who like being active with their dogs. Articles that give advice on food and health issues. Training. Various dog-sport activities. Photographers and Judges interviews. And so much more. Quite simply a publication for all of us who love and enjoy this magnificent breed. Interesting interviews with interesting people. Interesting articles by interesting people. Interesting insights into interesting subjects that are important to us all. A magazine to open doors and make communication and understanding easier. To make relevant information more accessible and more easily understood. And, as a total novelty, a publication that is free of charge on-line! It was a very novel concept indeed, but totally relevant and right in its timing, and it made its readership increase manyfold. And as you can still buy your very own hard copy, and have it sent to you; that was quite an eye-opener to many. As we go into a new year, with all of what that entails, we confidently look forward to more of that wonderful feedback from our readers that we so much appreciate, as well as contributions of articles and interviews. Without you, our much-appreciated readership, we would not still exist, so let us know what you want, and how you think we can get even better, and we promise you we’ll listen and do our best. So, from all of us, to all of you: A Very Merry Christmas, and may 2022 be an easier year for us and our beloved Ridgebacks than 2021.

Your Assistant Editor Timmy U. Ralfe

R H O D E S I A N R I D G E B A C K E U M A G A Z I N E ISSUE 8 / DECEMBER 2021

CONTENTS R H O D E S I A N

— CHAMPIONSHIP SHOW

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

— GETTING MOUTHY

— KIZAZI AJABU BREEDER

108

— PHOENIX OLDY

R I D G E B A C K

E U

M A G A Z I N E

102

— — BALANCE, STRENGTH, THE NATIONAL AND MOBILITY DOG OF SOUTH AFRICA

— SANDRA PISCEDDA AN INTERVIEW

— LURE COURSING SPORT

112 — BANGA OLDY

— KADAMO BREEDER

— SAFE DOG-CHILD COMMUNICATION

120

— RESCUE FRANCE WORK

126 — BAR(R )F FOOD

142

— SEE THROUGH CAMERA LENS.....

134

— GOLDEN PASTE FOOD

174

— COVER DOG

EDITOR MAGAZINE TEAM

AS S O C I AT E / T RA N S L AT I O N S AS S I S TA N T E D I TO R A N D T RA N S L ATO R TIMMY U. RALFE (SOUTH AFRICA) JUDGE AND AUTHOR.

L AYO U T D E S I G N & G R A P H I C S S N E Ž K A K U R A LT S TA R R D E S I G N ( S L O V E N I A )

SALES & PR Z H A N N A G O DJA J E VA ( L AT V I A ) AN ACTIVE STUD RR OWNER WHO LOVES TRAVELLING AROUND THE EUROPE SHOWING RR.

OFFICIAL DESIGNERS S N E Ž K A K U R A LT - S TA R R D E S I G N ( S LOV E N I A ) FC I J U D G E S P EC I A L I S T, RR OWNER, GRAPHIC DESIGNER EWA LARSSON (UK) KC JUDGE, BULLDOG OWNER, GRAPHIC DESIGNER

LICENCE OWNER EWA LARSSON S N E Ž K A K U R A LT

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE ISSUE 8 / DECEMBER 2021

HISTORY

WR I T T EN BY SANDRA PISCEDDA

CHAMPIONSHIP SHOW celebrating the 75th Anniversary

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

It was a most heart-felt decision to decide to publish in the RR European Magazine the photos of a unique event that occurred in the Rhodesian Ridgeback (RR) world in 1997. My feeling is that it may be useful to those people, breeders and owners sincerely interested in the breed, and an opportunity to get to know what happened about 24 years ago in the homeland of our breed. Besides, I am convinced that looking at RRs bred in Zimbabwe and compare them with todays’ RRs is good food for thoughts. On Sunday 17th August 1997 the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Zimbabwe, The Parent Club, organized the Championship Show for celebrating the 75th Anniversary of its foundation dating back to Barnes’ times in 1922. The Show provided a unique and unforgettable opportunity to see the assembly of many Rhodesian Ridgeback from Zimbabwe and some from abroad and admire quite a number of them. This remembrance of that Anniversary Show is a tribute to the breed, to The Parent Club and to the people who embarked upon the task to develop the breed since 1922, when Francis Richard Barnes formed the Rhodesian Ridgeback Lion Dog Club and drew up the Original Standard of the breed in Bulawayo. Beyond the People of the past, whose names belong to the history of the breed, in recent times, a fundamental contribution is certainly due to Margaret and Sam Wallace well known breeders from Harare under the Mushana kennel name. Afar of being breeders of outstanding dogs and bitches, the Wallaces have been the guardian of

the tradition and “culture” of the breed through their action within The Parent Club. Margaret was the Club Secretary, and Sam the Club President, he was also an international judge of the breed. In recalling the extraordinary event that took place in the homeland of the Rhodesian Ridgeback, lies my attempt to bring its remembrance into life for those who have a true interest in the past of our breed.

LET’S THE JOURNEY START! In the ‘90s I was on the RR-Folk list, the “social” of the time so useful to learn from other RR breeders and keep in touch with RR enthusiasts. One day, on Thursday, 2 January 1997 I received an email from Linda Costa, at the time Vice-President of The The Parent Club and well know breeder under affix Sarula. In the email Linda announced that “the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club (The Parent Club - founded 1922) will be celebrating its 75th Anniversary this year, and it is our wish to share with as many Ridgeback enthusiasts as possible” It went on saying that the Club was organizing the “Championship Show, to be judged by Jack Selby (“Eilack Kennels” U.K.) on 17th August, 1997 and other events for this period”. The events were: • Champagne Breakfast on the morning of the Show with special guests • Parade of Veterans at the Show • Production of a souvenir catalogue for the Show

Rt. Hon. Ian Douglas Smith

Sam Wallace

Linda Costa

• Breed Clinic by Jack Selby • Historical tour, by road, to various points of interest in Zimbabwe for enthusiasts and visitors. I did not need to read the email a second time, I immediately replied to Linda reserving my participation to such unique events. In August 1997 I took off from Naples and via London landed in Harare. Linda was waiting for me at the airport holding the poster of the Show, what a lovely encounter and wise decision to be there. She offered a wonderful hospitality at her place, where I met other RR lovers and breeders. I was so excited, already looking forward to the Show next day. Sunday 17 August was a lovely summer day in Harare and I cannot describe my excitement on that very morning while going to the show ground. A bit of regret as I realized I had forgotten in my room the wonderful blue leather-cover catalogue of the show. Linda had them printed with the name of each participants engraved on it. The Show was held at the Kennel Club of Harare Grounds, a very enjoyable and pleasant open site. The ring was quite large and allowed much room for the larger classes and for the powerful Rhodesian Ridgeback stride! Chairs and shelters were provided all around the ring bordered by a lot of green. Exhibitors and visitors were welcomed at the reception desk where they collect-

Margaret Wallace

Norah Griffin

ed their show package and a warm friendly smile from Linda Costa serving everybody. An exquisite Champagne breakfast preceded the opening of the show, served under a large marquis tent. Which consisted of salmon on rolls and champagne with fresh orange juice. A very nice start for the day, which went on very well, thanks to the excellent organization and the hard work of The Parent Club and the many people volunteering. In particular, much gratitude and appreciation were due to Linda Costa, the Club Vice President, who embarked upon the task of gathering as many RRs as possible from Zimbabwe, whose owners had never shown their dog before. It was a huge success, to collect so many representatives of the breed, numerous coming from local farms. Linda Costa had made a most interesting and smart arrangement in organizing the entries so that everybody was in several classes and kept returning in the ring. The results show in fact exhibits placing in different classes. That made the show so wonderfully animated! There was an illustrious guest, the Rt. Hon. Ian Douglas Smith who was the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club Patron and who presided the opening of the 75th Anniversary Championship; in the photos, he is talking with some of the people at the Show opening. Ian D. Smith was Prime Minister of Rhodesia from 1964 to 1979.

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

Jack Selby

Mr. Sam Wallace President of The Parent Club formally opened the show welcoming all the participants and their dogs. He introduced to everybody the oldest member of the club, a woman who had the privilege to cut the gorgeous cake of the 75th Anniversary show. That cut marked the beginning of the show. In some pictures, you can see the gate and the golden letters of the “Harare Kennel Club” on top of the gate. The photos I took at the Show, are arranged in Class order, e. g. Novice Class first males then females following. The Rhodesian Ridgebacks were judged by Mr. Jack Selby, from UK, a renowned Judge of the breed and long standing breeder under Eilack prefix. He was very kind to everybody and was greatly patient to dogs and owners, to those having very little or no ring experience especially. Mrs. Norah Griffin was the ring Steward and she managed the ring scene with great presence and professionalism.

sphere of the 75th Anniversary Championship so that they can ideally join the spirit of the event, a unique experience, a memory to treasure forever. After the show, many people assembled at the bar where Jack Selby opened the discussion about the breed. It was an interesting time of questions and answers. Jack Selby, speaking from his long-standing experience of judge, stated “I found the uniformity of the dogs in Zimbabwe were the best I have ever seen”. Later on, The Parent Club arranged a special issue of The Rhodesian Ridgeback Club magazine, devoted to the 75th Anniversary: the “Ridgeback Roundabout Championship Show Edition” dated March 1997 to October 1997. Several people attending the events were asked to provide their written “impression” for the enjoyment of those people who could not attend the show. I do hope these impressions touch upon you as well!

I am confident that the photos are able to convey to the reader the overall feeling and atmoRESULTS FROM THE SHOW CLASSES

1° FEMMA 1 2° MWEZI 25 3° MARUVA 55

1° REKAYLAHN JABULISA OF CLACHAN 50 2° CARTOUCHE ‘AMISH 34 3° CHENA MOYO 15 4° MHARADZI 33

1° MUSHANA VAMOYO 18 2° MARABAZA MUZARI 11 3° UMVUTCHA MCOBENI 43 4° MHANDARA 4

1° SHUMBATSVUKU ISHE 22 2° SHUMBATSVUKU DZVUKU 20 3° UMVUTCHA KALAHARI 16

1° SARULA GUKATIWA 9 BOB 2° SHUMBATSVUKU HAMA 69

1° SARULA FEZELA 5 2° MURAPI 62 3° SARULA BARIKA 71

1° MUSIKANAAKANAKA 60 2° SARULA GOMBWE 61 3° MUSHANA DISA 48 4° UMVUTCHA NANDO 45

1° IMBAHURU INDRA 47 2° SARULA inGWAZI 27 3° SHUMBATSVUKU GONDO 26 4° SARULA FEZELA 5

1° MUSHANA VAMOYO 18 2° SARULA GOMBWE 61 3° MARABAZA MUZARI 11 4° MHANDARA 4

ZIMBABWE BRED

1° IMBAHURU INDRA 47 2° UMVUTCHA UMVAGAZI 72 3° UMVUTCHA LOZWI 36 4° NDUNA 29

1° VUMBAMIRA DZIVA 53 2° UMVUTCHA MPUCHENE 44 3° SARULA GWIZA OF PRONKBERG 32 4° DINGAANI 67

NON ZIMBABWE BRED

1° APALACHEE UMQOLO OF PRONKBERG 31 BOS 2° CARTOUCHE ‘AMISH 34 3° CHUCKLENOOK CHANCELLOR 35 4° CHUCKLENOOK BOBEDI OF CLACHAN 49

1° CARTOUCHE SAMANTHA 58

1° KIMANI HEIR TO THE THRONE 57

1° EILACK SPURWING 30

1° A SSEGAI-KIMANI VOYAGER 56 2° CHIBUTU CHIPWA 3 3° SARULA inGWAZI 27

1° SARULA ETOSHA 68 2° GUMWA 52 3° CARTOUCHE UNYANA 13

CC APALACHEE UMQOLO OF PRONKBERG 31 RCC ASSEGAI-KIMANI VOYAGER 56

CC SARULA GUKATIWA 9 RCC VUMBAMIRA DZIVA 53

1° RUSTIG MOOKETSI OF SARULA 6 2° UMVUTCHA MAZULA 37

1° LIONSTARR CERIAN OF CLACHAN 51 2° MUNYORO OF SARULA 7 3° STALKMOOR CANADA CROSS OF SHUMBATSVUKU 70 4° LIONHILL MAD MARION OF UMVUTCHA 39

JUNIOR

GRADUATE

NOVICE

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

BITCHES

1° SIMMBBAR 21 2° KUDA 54

MINOR PUPPY

SPECIAL BEGINNER

IMPORTED

OPEN

CC & RCC

CHAMPION

DOGS

FOTO MOMENTS

SIMMBBAR, dog, 24/11/96, 1st Minor Puppy, Best Puppy, cat. n 21

KUDA, dog, 17/12/96, 2nd Minor Puppy Class, cat. n 54

MARUVA, bitch, 17/12/96, 1st Minor Puppy Class, cat. n 55

REKAYLAHN JABULISA OF CLACHAN, dog, 26/2/96, 1st Junior Class, Best Junior, cat. n 50

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

CHAMPIONSHIP SHOW

CHENA MOYO, dog, 28/6/96, 3rd Junior Class, cat. n 15

MHENGO, dog, 5/6/96, Junior Class, cat. n 2

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

CARTOUCHE ‘AMISH, dog, 20/5/96, 2nd Junior Class, cat n 34

MHARADZI, dog, 5/6/96, 4th Junior Class, cat n 33 RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

MUSHANA VAMOYO, bitch, 5/8/96, 1st Junior Class, 1st Special Beginner Class, 3rd Best Ridge, cat. n 18

SHUMBATSVUKU ISHE, dog, 12/11/95, 1st Graduate Class, cat. n 22

SHUMBATSVUKU DZVUKU, dog, 12/11/95, 2nd Graduate Class, cat. n 20

UMVUTCHA KALAHARI, dog, 10/10/95, 3rd Graduate Class, cat. n 56

SARULA GUKATIWA, bitch, 26/9/95, 1st Graduate Class, CC, Best of Breed, cat. n 9

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

SARULA GUKATIWA, bitch, 26/9/95, 1st Graduate Class, CC, Best of Breed, cat. n 9

SARULA FEZELA, dog, 1/3/95, 1st Novice Class, cat. n 5

MURAPI, dog, 6/1/95, 2nd Novice Class, cat. n 62

SARULA BARIKA, dog, 29/9/92, 3rd Novice Class, cat. n 71 RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

MUSIKANAAKANAKA, bitch, 25/5/96, 1st Novice Class, Best Novice, Best Head, cat. n 60

Special Beginner Class dog: SARULA inGWAZI, MAMBIZI, NDUNA, IMBAHURU INDRA, MHENGO, MHARADZI

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

Special Beginner Class dog: NDUNA, cat. n 29, IMBAHURU INDRA 1st, cat. n 47

Special Beginner Class dog: MAMBIZI, 25/5/96, cat. n 28

Special Beginner Class dog: MHENGO, 5/6/96, cat. n 2

IMBAHURU INDRA, dog,1/9/93, 1st Special Beginner Class, 1st Zimbabwe Bred Class, cat. n 47

Special Beginner Class dog: SARULA inGWAZI, 2nd, SHUMBATSVUKU GONDO 3rd, SARULA FEZELA 4th

MHANDARA, bitch, 5/6/96, 4th Special Beginner Class, cat. n 4 RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

Special Beginner Class bitch: MUSHANA VAMOYO 1st, SARULA GOMBWE 2nd, MARABADA MUZARI 3rd, MHANDARA 4th (hidden behind the lady in red), EILACK SPURWING (lying down)

MARABADA MUZARI, bitch, 17/6/96, 2nd Junior Class, 3rd Special Beginner Class, cat. n 11

SARULA GOMBWE, bitch, 26/9/95, 2nd Special Beginner Class, 2nd Novice Class, cat. n 61

UMVUTCHA UMVAGAZI, dog, 15/7/94, 2nd Zimbabwe Bred Class, cat. n 72

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

UMVUTCHA LOZWI, dog, 2/2/91, 3rd Zimbabwe Bred Class

VUMBAMIRA DZIVA, bitch, 15/5/94, 1st Zimbabwe Bred Class, cat. n 53

SARULA GWIZA, bitch, 26/9/95, 3rd Zimbabwe Bred Class, cat. n 32

CARTOUCHE SAMANTHA, bitch, 29/5/90, 1st Non Zimbabwe Bred Class RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

KIMANI HEIR TO THE THRONE, dog, 21/4/93, 1st Imported Class, cat n. 57

SARULA BAJUKA, dog, 29/8/92, 4th Open Class, cat. n 17

ASSEGAI-KIMANI VOYAGER, dog, 28/12/94, 1st Open Class, RCC dog, cat. n 56

CHITUBU CHIPWA, dog, 28/5/93, 2nd Open Class, cat. n 3

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

SARULA ETOSHA, bitch, 30/8/94, 1st Open Class

SHUMBATSVUKU HAMA, bitch, 12/11/95, 2nd Graduate Class, cat. n 69

CARTOUCHE UNYANA, bitch, 7/11/95, 3rd Open Class, cat. n 13 RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

APALACHEE UMQOLO OF PRONKBERG, dog, 28/8/91, 1st Non Zimbabwe Bred Class, CC, Best of Opposite Sex, cat. n 31

ROOSTIG MOOKETSI OF SARULA, dog, 23/6/91, 1st Champion Class, cat. n 6

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

UMVUTCHA MAZULA, dog 26/6/87, 2nd Champion Class, cat n. 37

SARULA GUKATIWA, CC bitch

VUMBAMIRA DZIVA, SARULA ETOSHA competing for the CC

SARULA GUKATIWA, CC bitch

MUNYORO OF SARULA, bitch, 26/5/89, 2nd Champion Class, cat. n 7

LIONSTARR CERIAN OF CLACHAN, bitch, 26/12/90, 1st Champion Class, cat. n 51 RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

LIONSTARR CERIAN OF CLACHAN, MUNYORO OF SARULA

SARULA GUKATIWA CC bitch, RUSTIG MOOKETSI OF SARULA 1st Ch. Class -BOB final: competing also APALACHEE UMQOLO OF PRONKBERG CC dog and LIONSTARR CERIAN OF CLACHAN 1st Ch. Class

SARULA GUKATIWA, RUSTIG MOOKETSI OF SARULA

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

SARULA GUKATIWA BOB - APALACHEE UMQOLO OF PRONKBERG BOS

CHALLENGE CLASS BEST HEAD: MUSIKANAAKANAKA 1st, STALKMOOR CANADA CROSS OF SHUMBATSVUKU 2nd, SARULA GWIZA 3rd RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

CHALLENGE CLASS BEST RIDGE

MUSHANA VAMOYO, CHALLENGE CLASS BEST RIDGE 3rd

APALACHEE UMQOLO OF PRONKBERG, CHALLENGE CLASS BEST RIDGE 1st

ASSEGAI-KIMANI VOYAGER, CHALLENGE CLASS BEST RIDGE 2nd

CHALLENGE CLASS BEST HEAD: SARULA BARIKA, DOG, 29/9/92, 4th Best Head, cat n. 71

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

CHALLENGE CLASS BEST HEAD: SARULA GWIZA OF PRONKBERG 3rd Best Head

CHALLENGE CLASS BEST HEAD: CARTOUCHE UNYANA, CARTOUCHE SAMANTHA, MUSHANA VAMOYO, SARULA FEZELA, SARULA GWIZA OF PRONKBERG, UMVUTCHA KALAHARI, UMVUTCHA MPUCHENE

CHALLENGE CLASS BEST GAITED: APALACHEE UMQOLO OF PRONKBERG 1st,RUSTIG MOOKETSI OF SARULA 2nd, CARTOUCHE ‘AMISH 3rd RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

CHALLENGE CLASS BEST GAITED:RUSTIG MOOKETSI OF SARULA 2nd, CARTOUCHE ‘AMISH 3rd

CHALLENGE CLASS BRACE: 69 SHUMBATSVUKU HAMA & 70 STALKMOOR CANADA CROSS OF SHUMBATSVUKU - 44 UMVUTCHA MCOBENI & UMVUTCHA MPUCHENE

CHALLENGE CLASS BRACE: 29 NDUNA & 30 EILACK SPURWING

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

CHALLENGE CLASS PROGENY: RUSTIG MOOKETSI OF SARULA sire of SARULA ETOSHA, IMBAHURU INDRA

CHALLENGE CLASS PROGENY: RUSTIG MOOKETSI OF SARULA sire of SARULA ETOSHA, IMBAHURU INDRA, SARULA GWIZA, SARULA inGWAZI

Behind the scene

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

Behind the scene

BOB & BOS SARULA GUKATIWA BOB - APALACHEE UMQOLO OF PRONKBERG BOS

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK JUDGE: MR JACK SELBY (UNITED KINGDOM) MINOR PUPPY DOG • 21 SIMMBBAR 24.11.1996 Mushana Kopa / Ruffaro B: Mr M Van Ruiten O:Mr E V Korovine • 54 KUDA 17.12.1996 Sarula Fezela / Sarula Enyanyi B: Mr D Trigg O: Mr D P Triig & Mr G Hjort

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

BITCH • 1 FEMMA 24.11.1996 Mushana Kopa / Ruffaro B: Mr R Van Ruiten O: Mr A J Adamson • 25 MWEZI 20.12.1996 Sarula Fezela / Sarula Enyanyi B: Mr D Trigg O: Mrs S Narder • 55 MARUVA 17.12.1996 Sarula Fezela / Sarula Enyanyi B: Mr D Trigg O: Mr D Trigg JUNIOR DOG • 2 MHENGO 5.6.1996 Chitubo Chipwa / Tandi B: Mrs K Billing O: Mrs R Bezuidenhout • 15 CHENA MOYO 28.6.1996 Chama delle Cime Bianche of Mushana / Alfalfa Wenimbi B: Mrs J Ferreira O: Mrs S Gilmour •

• 33 MHARADZI 5.6.1996 Chitubo Chipwa / Tandi B: Mrs K Billing O: Mrs S M K Potter • 34 CARTOUCHE ‘AMISH 20.5.1996 Ch(RSA) Assegai Kimani Voyager of Cartouche / Ch (RSA) Cartouche Ntombi B: Mr R Van Aken O: Mrs S Rogerson • 50 REKAYLAHN JABULISA OF CLACHAN 26.2.1996 Ch (RSA) Umvutcha Lhazula / Rekaylahn Titian Mischief B: Mrs K Bean (RSA) O: Mrs H Stewart BITCH • 4 MHANDARA 5.6.1996 Chitubo Chipwa / Tandi B: Mrs K Billing O: Mrs W Carey • 11 MARABAZA MUZARI 17.6.1996 Maradaba Gono / Mushana Cagura B: Mr G Botha O: Mrs D Davies • 18 MUSHANA VAMOYO 5.8.1996 Chitubu Chipwa / Shangara Vesuka of Mushana B: Mrs M Wallace O: Mr H Holtkamp • 43 UMVUTCHA MCOBENI 4.3.1996 Ch Umvutcha Mazula / Ch Lionhill Mad Marion of Umvutcha B: Mr J Sankey O: Mr J Sankey

GRADUATE DOG • 14 SARULA GONAREZHOU 26.9.1995 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Mushana Ranzi of Sarula B: Mrs L costa O: Mr C Gates • 16 UMVUTCHA KALAHARI 10.10.1995 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Ch Umvutcha Lhandela B: Mr J Sankey O: Mr G Hadfield • 20 SHUMBATSVUKU DZVUKU 12.11.1995 Sarula Barika / Stalkmoor Canada Cross of Shumbatsvuku B: Mr G Whitney O: Mr W S Kidd • 22 SHUMBATSVUKU ISHE 12.11.1995 Sarula Barika / Stalkmoor Canada Cross of Shumbatsvuku B: Mr G Whitney O: Mr D Mazambani • 24 KIDOKO 7.9.1995 Summershoek Dimba / Mushana Kamba B: Mrs P Lindsay-White O: Mrs S Narder BITCH • 9 SARULA GUKATIWA 26.9.1995 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Ch Mushana Ranzi of Sarula B: Mrs L Costa O: Mrs L Costa

NOVICE DOG • 5 SARULA FEZELA 1.3.1995 Mushana Shava / Ch Munyoro of Sarula B: Mrs L Costa O: Mr C Coleman • 19 SARULA DZIMBA 6.2.1994 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Ch Munyoro of SarulaŽB: Mrs L Costa O: Mrs J Jenkins • 62 MURAPI 6.1.1995 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / MuroyiŽ B: Dr C Waghorn O: Dr C Waghorn & Miss N Murphree • 71 SARULA BARIKA 29.9.1992 Chiremba Jinda / Ch Munyoro of Sarula B: Mrs L Costa O: Mr P Wild BITCH • 40 UMVUTCHA KHALA 10.10.1995 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Ch Umvutcha Lhandela B: Mr J Sankey O: Mr J Sankey • 41 UMVUTCHA KAUDZIZI 10.10.1995 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Ch Umvutcha Lhandela B: Mr J Sankey O: Mr J Sankey • 45 UMVUTCHA NANDO 17.7.1989 Tokwe / Shangani of Umvutcha B: Mr J Sankey O: Mr J Sankey • 48 MUSHANA DISA 18.4.1991 Ch Mennystone Salute / Ch Mushana Touchwood B: Mrs M G Wallace O: Mrs A G Stevenson • 60 MUSIKANAAKANAKA 25.5.1996 Chama delle Cime Bianche of Mushana / Alfalfa Wenimbi B: Mr J Ferreira O: Mr H Van Der Heiden • 61 SARULA GOMBWE 26.9.1995 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Ch Mushana Ranzi of Sarula B: Mrs L Costa O: Mr P Voysey • 67 DINGAANI 17.4.1992 Mukani of Mushana / Maruva B: Mrs M Oxley O: Mr G Whitney SPECIAL BEGINNER DOG • 2 MHENGO 5.6.1996 Chibutu Chipwa / Tandiv B: Mrs K Billing O: Mrs R Bezuidenhout • 5 SARULA FEZELA 1.3.1995 Mushana Shava / Ch Munyoro of Sarula B: Mrs L Costa O: Mr C Coleman

• 14 SARULA GONAREZHOU 26.9.1995 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Mushana Ranzi of Sarula B: Mrs L costa O: Mr C Gates • 15 CHENA MOYO 28.6.1996 Chama delle Cime Bianche of Mushana / Alfalfa Wenimbi B: Mrs J Ferreira O: Mrs S Gilmour

• 38 UMVUTCHA MAKAMBA 7.9.1993 Umvutcha Mazula / Lionhill Maid Marion of Umvutcha B: Mr J Sankey O: Mr J Sankey

• 23 UMVUTCHA KUSHELA 10.10.1995 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Ch Umvutcha Lhandela B: Mr J Sankey O: Mrs S Mkamba

• 71 SARULA BARIKA 29.9.1992 Chiremba Jinda / Ch Munyoro of Sarula B: Mrs L Costa O: Mr P Wild

• 26 SHUMBATSVUKU GONDO 12.11.1995 Sarula Barika / Stalkmoor Canada Cross of Shumbatsvuku B: Mr G Whitney O: Mrs S Paver • 27 SARULA inGWAZI 26.9.1995 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Ch Mushana Ranzi of Sarula B: Mrs L Costa O: Mrs J Pitout • 28 MAMBIZI 25.5.1996 Nduna / MatetsiriverChipo B: Mr R Hangartner O: Mr W L D Player • 29 NDUNA 3.10.1992 Mushana Rufus / Pfuri B: Mr I Krog O: Mr & Mrs K Pope • 33 MHARADZI 5.6.1996 Chitubo Chipwa / Tandi B: Mrs K Billing O: Mrs S M K Potter • 47 IMBAHURU INDRA 1.9.1993 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Mushana Disa B: Mr A G stevenson O: Mr A G Stevenson BITCH • 4 MHANDARA 5.6.1996 Chitubo Chipwa / Tandi B: Mrs K Billing O: Mrs W Carey • 11 MARABAZA MUZARI 17.6.1996 Maradaba Gono / Mushana Cagura B: Mr G Botha O: Mrs D Davies • 18 MUSHANA VAMOYO 5.8.1996 Chitubu Chipwa / Shangara Vesuka of Mushana B: Mrs M Wallace O: Mr H Holtkamp • 30 EILACK SPURWING 6.2.89 Ulundi Ushumba of Eilack / Jila of eilack B: Mr J Selby O: Mr & Mrs K Pope • 61 SARULA GOMBWE 26.9.1995 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Ch Mushana Ranzi of Sarula B: Mrs L Costa O: Mr P Voysey ZIMBABWE BRED DOG • 29 NDUNA 3.10.1992 Mushana Rufus / Pfuri B: Mr I Krog O: Mr & Mrs K Pope • 36 UMVUTCHA LOZWI 2.2.1991 Umvutcha Mazula / Umvutcha Mandau B: Mr J Sankey O: Mr J Sankey

• 47 IMBAHURU INDRA 1.9.1993 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Mushana Disa B: Mr A G stevenson O: Mr A G Stevenson

• 72 UMVUTCHA UMVAGAZI 15.7.1994 Umvutcha Mazula / Lionhill Maid Marion of Umvutcha B: Mr J Sankey O: Mrs M A Zaal BITCH • 32 SARULA GWIZA OF PRONKBERG 26.9.1995 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of sarula / Ch Mushana Ranzi of sarula B: Mrs L costa O: Dr S V Potgieter • 44 UMVUTCHA MPUCHENE 4.3.1996 Umvutcha Mazula / Lionhill Maid Marion of Umvutcha B: Mr J Sankey O: Mr J Sankey • 53 VUMBAMIRA DZIVA 15.5.1994 Ch Mushana Panduka / Gumwa B: Mr B Toomer O:Mr B Toomer • 67 DINGAANI 17.4.1992 Mukani of Mushana / Maruva B: Mrs M Oxley O: Mr G Whitney NON ZIMBABWE BRED DOG • 31 CH (SA) APALACHEE UMQOLO OF PRONKBERG 28.8.1991 Ch Pronkberg Matange / Kulima Zena B: Mrs J A Fitzgerald (RSA) O: Dr S V Potgieter • 34 CARTOUCHE ‘AMISH 20.5.1996 Ch(RSA) Assegai Kimani Voyager of Cartouche / Ch (RSA) Cartouche Ntombi B: Mr R Van Aken (RSA) O: Mrs S Rogerson • 35 CHUCKLENOOK CHANCELLOR 5.9.1995 Namandla Kwebha / Ballengeich Zara of Chucklenook B: Mrs L Venter (RSA) O: Mr J Sankey • 49 CH (SA) CHUCKLENOOK BOBEDI OF CLACHAN 1.10.1986 Chucklenook Kidron / Rockridge Ladyanna of Chuclenook • B: Mrs L Venter (RSA) O: Mr S H Stewart BITCH • 58 CARTOUCHE SAMANTHA29.5.90 Ch (RSA) Mushana Raki-Sam of Cartouche / Cartouche Carla B: Mr R Van aken O: Mr & Mrs Van Aken

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• 69 SHUMBATSVUKU HAMA 12.11.1995 • Sarula Barika / Stalkmoor Canada Cross of Shumbatsvuku B: Mr G Whitney O: Mr G Whitney

IMPORTED DOG • 57 CH (USA) KIMANI HEIR TO THE THRONE 21.4.1993 Ch (USA) Bandit of Blauvelt / Ch (USA) Kimani Changamire Jazz B: Mrs A Mohr & Ms C Ose O: Mr & Mrs R Van Aken BITCH • 30 EILACK SPURWING 6.2.1989 Ulundi Ushumba of Eilack / Jila of eilack B: Mr J Selby O: Mr & Mrs K Pope OPEN DOG • 3 CHIBUTU CHIPWA 28.5.1993 Mushana Jarela / Sarula Alali B: Mrs R Codron O: Mr C Birss • 17 SARULA BAJUKA 29.8.1992 Chiremba Jinda / Ch Munyoro of Sarula B: Mrs L Costa O: Mr R Hill • 27 SARULA inGWAZI 26.9.1995 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Ch Mushana Ranzi of Sarula B: Mrs L Costa O: Mrs J Pitout • 56 CH (RSA) ASSEGAI-KIMANI VOYAGER 28.12.1994 Ch (USA) Kimani’s Sharper Image / Ch (USA) Cartouche Nikela B: Ms M Carlina (USA) O: Mr & Mrs R Van Aken • 63 CHAMA DELLE CIME BIANCHE OF MUSHANA 14.2.1995 Famous Chaka Makaranga / Mahra delle Cima Bianche B: Mrs G Bacchini (Italy) O: Mrs M G Wallace

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BITCH • 10 UMVUTCHA TENDELE 22.4.1990 Mukwishe of Dolleswood / Umvutcha Malala B: Mr J Sankey O: Mr A Davies

• 13 CH (RSA) CARTOUCHE UNYANA 7.11.1995 Ch (RSA) Shangara Sabhuku / Ch (RSA) Cartouche Samantha B: Mr R Van Aken O: Downhams & Van Aken Mrs A & Mrs D • 46 UMVUTCHA UMBONDO 15.7.1994 Ch Umvutcha Mazula / Ch Lionhill Maid Marion of Umvutcha B: Mr J Sankey O: Mr J Sankey • 52 GUMWA 23.3.1992 Balder / Chiremba Shamu B: mrs M Billings O: Mr B Toomer • 59 CARTOUCHE ROTHISA 3.5.1993 Ch (RSA) Mushana Benji of Cartouche / Cartouche Jena B: MR R Van Aken O: Mr & Mrs R Van Aken • 65 MUSHANA CHIPOSHI 31.1.1991 Ch Mukani of Mushana / Ch Chiremba Nembo of Mushana B: Mrs M G Wallace O: Mrs M G Wallace • 66 SHANGARA VESUKA OF MUSHANA 10.7.1994 Cartouche Gadima / Solei Umvi of Shangara B: Mr & Mrs B L Megginson O: Mrs M G Wallace • 68 SARULA ETOSHA 30.8.1994 Ch Rustig Mooketsi of Sarula / Ch Mushana Ranzi of Sarula B: Mrs L Costa O: Mr G Whitney CHAMPION DOG • 6 CH RUSTIG MOOKETSI OF SARULA 23.6.1991 Ch Pronkberg Matange/ Pronkberg Rusvinga B: Mr D Kriel (RSA) O: Mrs L Costa • 12 CH VUMBAMIRA DEMO 10.10.1994 Ch Mushana Panduka / Gumwa

B: Mr B Toomer O: Mr & Mrs J Dooley • 37 UMVUTCHA MAZULA 26.6.1987 Sarahata Amusing / Shangani of Umvutcha B: Mr J Sankey O: Mr J Sankey • 64 CH MUSHANA PANDUKA 17.2.1988 Ch Toziveyi / Mushana Tambudza B: Mrs M G Wallace O: Mrs M G Wallace BITCH • 7 CH MUNYORO OF SARULA 26.5.1989 Ch Toziveyi / Makwadiba Pfava B: Mr R Hangartner O: Mrs L Costa • 8 CH MUSHANA RANZI OF SARULA 31.1.1990 Ch Mukani of Mushana / Ch Chiremba Nembo of Mushana B: Mrs M G Wallace O: Mrs L Costa • 39 CH LIONHILL MAD MARION OF UMVUTCHA 3.10.1990 Chucklenook Zared / Lionhill Canzo B: Mrs L Venter (RSA) O: Mr J Sankey • 42 CH UMVUTCHA LHANDELA 19.9.1991 Ch Lionhill Merry Man of Umvutcha / Umvutcha Nando B: Mr J Sankey O: Mr J Sankey • 51 CH (SA) (ZIM) LIONSTARR CERIAN OF CLACHAN 17.12.1990 Ch Chucklenook Bobedi of Clachan / Glenaholm Swanya of Lionstarr B: Dr I Rencken (RSA) O: Mrs S H Stewart • 70 CH STALKMOOR CANADA CROSS OF SHUMBATSVUKU1.12.1997 Cave Creek’s Redhouse Mingo / Stalkmoor Costa Del Sol B: Mrs M Apostle (Canada) O: Mr G Whitney

VETERANS PARADE The Veterans Parade took place when the judging of all male classes was over, and before the judging of the females classes started. We had the honor to admire 15 dogs and bitches who paraded with their owners and handlers. I always moved when I see older dogs in the ring, the white of their muzzles and their wet eyes tells us how much for many years they loved us, and are still ready to love us for as many years to come! I liked the fact that they were not competing, but all were winners, winners of love and for this reason, all had a special treat, a sausage, given them by a very special person Dr Steph V. Potgieter. The dogs had no number, but letters from A to O. In addition, in the catalogue a nice few lines sketched out the personality of each of them.

A CH MUSHANA RANZI OF SARULA “Ranzi” B UMVUTCHA MAKVA “Makva” C CH UMVUTCHA MAZULA “Mazula” D CH UMVUTCHA NGUDABA “Caesar” E UMVUTCHA TENDELE “Shashi” F CH MUNYORO OF SARULA “Shady” G CH UMVUTCHA MALUNDI “Lindy” H UMVUTCHA NANDO “Thanda” I CH (SA) CHUCKLENOOK BOBEDI OF CLACHAN “Bobby” J CH MUSHANA PANDUKA “Duke” K MANA INYOKA “Fawn” L EILACK SPURWING “Tumba” M MANA RUCHOMECHI “iGunjane” N CH CARTOUCHE SAMANTHA “Samantha” O MUROYI “Zuva”

VETERANS PARADE

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ABOUT ARTICLE Original document can be found on FCI page under Breed-specific education section. Prepared by Joy McFarlane

THE

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACKK

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THE NATIONAL DOG OF SOUTH AFRICA

Hunting mainly in groups of two or three, the original function of the Rhodesian Ridgeback, or Lion Dog, was to track game, especially lion, and with great agility, keep it at bay until the arrival of the hunter.

HISTORY Ancestors can be traced to the semi-domesticated dogs accompanying the indigenous people, the Khoi-San, who lived near the southern tip of Africa.

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“RIDGEBACKS HUNT LION” THEY SAY… (NO THEY DIDN’T !)

The Rhodesian Ridgeback is one of only two registered breeds indigenous to Southern Africa, the other being the Boerboel.

When the Portuguese discovered the Cape in 1487, and the area was later colonised by Dutch Settlers, these dogs were bred to early pioneers’ dogs and used for hunting and guarding.

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From around 1830, when the British colonised the Cape, the Dutch Settlers, fed up with this new governance, began the great migration – “die Groot Trek” into the hinterland, discovering new areas eastwards and northwards as far as the later-named, Rhodesia. These “Voortrekkers” (travelling pioneers) took their dogs with them, which became popular for their hunting capacity.

In 1879 Rev. Charles Daniel Helm brought two dogs from Kimberley (a small diamond-mining town in central South Africa) to his mission near Bulawayo in Rhodesia, now known as Zimbabwe. These two bitches are regarded as the origin of what is known today as the Rhodesian Ridgeback. A hunter, by the name of Cornelius van Rooyen, who operated mainly in Matebeleland (now Botswana), mated these two rough coated, grey-black dogs to his pack and the famous ridge emerged.

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Van Rooyen crossed several breeds to create his African Lion Hound because of its ability to keep lion at bay while awaiting its master to make the kill: • Bloodhound and Pointer – for good scenting • Bulldog and Bull Terrier – for courage and tenacity • Airedale and Irish Terrier – for dash and spirit • Deerhound – for stamina • Smooth Collie – for herding skills • Greyhound – for speed The brown-nosed variety is related to the Pointers that were used and the problem of a kinked tail goes back to the Bulldog ancestry. The dog’s usefulness far outweighed its looks or adherence to any particular type, but the ridge continued to manifest itself in most of the litters.

In 1922, a veterinarian, Francis Richard Barnes gave recognition to the Rhodesian Ridgeback as a breed. Barnes asked owners to bring their dogs to a meeting to be held at a Bulawayo Kennel Club Show to endeavour to formulate a breed standard with the object of later recognition by the, then, South African Kennel Union. A large number of owners attended the meeting and well over 20 dogs were paraded. They were of all types and sizes, and several different colours; reds and brindles predominating. The dog owners were keen to form a club, but reluctant to agree too readily on a breed standard. Finally, Mr. B.W. Durham – the only Allbreeds Judge in South Africa at the time, and possessing some knowledge of the breed, took a dog and suggested that its size and conformation be adopted; then chose another specimen for its head and neck; a third for legs and feet; and, making use of some five different dogs, they built up their aims based heavily on the Dalmatian standard. Francis Barnes then set down the breed standard and it was adopted by the Kennel Union. This, with some later amendments and alterations is the standard in use today.

In 1924, the first two Rhodesian Ridgebacks were registered with the newly renamed Kennel Union of Southern Africa (KUSA). By the end of 1928, there were already 13 registered breeders with kennel names. During World War II, the Rhodesian Ridgeback declined in popularity and almost ceased to exist.

Eskdale Leo & Eskdale Connie (F.R. Barnes)

UTILISATION TODAY The Hound that is both Sighthound and Scenthound, has found favour in most countries around the world as companion/house dogs, family pets, and watchdogs.

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Today there are only a few lion left in the wild, and hunting is no longer practised the way it was. In a few game parks, Rhodesian Ridgebacks serve a useful tracking purpose in conservation programmes.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN JUDGING FIRST IMPRESSION First, gain a general impression of the whole dog, look for balance • eye catching, elegant, yet showing substance • neither too racy nor too heavy in bone • must look athletic, able to run all day and find speed when necessary

BY THE WAY… • slightly longer than tall (10:9) • brisket at half the height at withers • toes in line with buttocks line • sloping shoulders well laid back • level topline (not sloping) with slight rise over loin • balanced proportions “symmetrical in outline”

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NOW, LET’S TAKE A LOOK AT THE IMPORTANT HALLMARKS TO LOOK FOR WHEN JUDGING THE RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK

BY THE WAY… Height: • dogs : 63cm (25”) to 69cm (27”) • bitches : 61cm (24”) to 66cm (26”) Weight: • dogs : 36.5kg (80lbs) • bitches : 32 kg (70lbs)

PARALLEL PLANES • head is of fair length, in balance with rest of body - parallel planes • clean, ‘dry’ appearance - no wrinkles on skull, except when alert • foreface is a blunt wedge, neither too sharp nor too blocky

CHEEKS • cheeks clean, flat, or slightly rounded – never prominent

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• sufficient fill under the eye – no fall-away

NOSE & CHIN • black or brown - neither colour should take preference over the other • black-nosed dogs may have a darker muzzle and darker ear tips • ample, well-expanded nostrils – definitely not pinched • sufficient chin

STOP • creates a neat step up to the forehead – never too shallow • muzzle plane is flat - never concave (dished) or convex (Roman)

LENGTH OF MUZZLE • muzzle same length as the skull – neither snipey nor coarse

LENGTH OF SKULL • skull is flat, free from wrinkle unless the dog is alert

SQUARENESS • width of skull between the ears is equal the length of the skull from stop to occiput and length of muzzle from stop to tip of nose – thus, roughly a square

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• reasonably well defined, not too deep

EYES • round eyes – neither protruding nor sunken • expression reflects temperament – confident, stable, dignified, intelligent • eyelids close-fitting – no haw showing

BY THE WAY… • 1 - dark eyes and rims on a black-nosed dog • 2 - amber eyes with lighter eye rims on a brown-nosed dog • 3 - light eyes undesirable 1

EARS • medium-sized drop ear, set fairly well back and rather high

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• carried flat, close to the head in repose, but very mobile

BY THE WAY… • rose or fly-away ear unacceptable • fold of ear not to be above the top of the skull

BITE

DENTITION • teeth well developed, especially the canines – no missing teeth

BY THE WAY…

√

SCISSOR BITE

LEVEL BITE

OVERSHOT BITE

UNDERSHOT BITE

NECK • fairly long, elegant neck – short neck usually indicates straight shoulder • good (but not too much) thickness, clean – free from throatiness • must allow agility of the shoulder and carriage of head for the dog to use his senses

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• strong scissor bite - the upper teeth closely overlap the lower teeth and are set square to the jaw

WITHERS • neck should blend smoothly into well-laid shoulders • bumpiness at the wither indicates a problematic shoulder assembly

UPPER ARM • sufficient (but not excessive) muscling over the upper arm • look out for short, straight upper arms – an indication of poor balance

WIDTH OF CHEST • distance between forelegs – neither too wide nor too narrow • floor of the chest should be visible from the front

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• ‘cathedral peak’ (inverted V) indicates faulty shoulder assembly

BY THE WAY…

CATHEDRAL PEAK FRONT TOO NARROW

√

CORRECT

TOO WIDE

FORECHEST

BY THE WAY ...

√

• if prosternum is too high, angle to brisket is too sharp, leading to clipped keel

• if shoulder assembly is set too far forward, prosternum is not visible

FORELEG • straight viewed from the front, dropping straight down from shoulders • from side, forelegs wider near elbow than at pastern • oval bone – never round or coarse

BY THE WAY ... • pastern is strong and slightly angled – upright pastern is a fault • feet face forward

• compact wellarched toes

• flat, splayed foot, long toenails and weak pasterns

√

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• reasonable forechest protruding in front of the front legs, as viewed in profile

SHOULDER ASSEMBLY • shoulders are well laid back, sloping, with clean, powerful, long muscles • shoulder blades fairly close together at withers, elbows tucked firmly • test the stability of the elbows by gently rocking the body sideways and back at the withers – weak elbows will pop out of alignment

DEPTH AT BRISKET • deep chest produces good heart room and lung capacity • brisket should reach to or nearly to the elbows

SPRING OF RIB • ribcage should extend well back, giving length to the body (the length of the dog is in the length of ribcage, not in the coupling)

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• capacious – not barrelled

COUPLING • coupling is moderate – neither too short nor too long • bitches typically slightly longer-coupled than dogs • if too long in the coupling, it may show weakness in the back

STIFLE • feel for firm muscle tone in the upper and lower thigh

BY THE WAY ... • over or under angulation is highly undesirable • when over angulation occurs, the upper arm is usually shorter and straighter to compensate for the hind leg that drives to far forward

√

• correct stifle

• straight stifle

• over-angulated stifle

BY THE WAY ...

√

• open-hocked

• cow-hocked

• muscle bound

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• moderately angulated for efficient endurance movement

TAIL INSERTION • thick and strong at insertion point

BY THE WAY…

√

• correct

• acceptable in movement

• gay tail

LET’S LOOK AT THAT ELUSIVE WHEATEN COLOUR COLOUR

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• colour is light wheaten to red wheaten • “wheaten” = reddish, banded hair where the root is lighter and the tip is darker genetically, called “agouti” • a little white on chest and toes – not on body or above toes • dark muzzle and ears permissable - no excessive black hairs in coat •

MAHOGANY • deep red/mahogany is not a correct colour because it lacks the banding of the agouti (wheaten) hair shafts - without the banding, the hair is solid red

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these other diversions are also incorrect: • blue: sometimes progeny of two dark dogs – coat has a blue-grey tinge; born with blue eyes that go grey/amber

Images courtesy of www.kalaharirr.com

NOW WE EXAMINE THE ESCUTCHEON OF THE RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK THE RIDGE • shaped like a dagger – ideally 5cm (2”) wide, tapering to a point • should extend from immediately behind the shoulders to the hip bones

THE RIDGE • examine the box (if there is one) without stretching it • a broken or heart-shaped box acceptable as long as there is no third crown • the box may not extend further than ⅓ of the total length

THE RIDGE • two crowns, symmetrically placed and perfectly formed • size of the crown depends on the length of hair

• ACCEPTABLE ridge patterns – crowns are all opposite each other

INCORRECT RIDGES: • 1. single crown, 2. & 3. multiple crowns, 4. nick in the ridge, 5. ridge too short, 6. ridge irregularly shaped, 7. no crowns, 8. third crown, 9. off-set crowns

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THE RIDGE

√

• very broad ridge

• off-set crowns

• three crowns

LET’S TAKE A LOOK AT MOVEMENT

• look for balance in movement – equal reach and drive

MOVEMENT • balance calls for identical triangular action in front and back • reach should not extend beyond plumb line from nose

MOVEMENT • hind foot steps into impression made by front foot – penalise over-tracking or under-tracking

MOVEMENT • it’s acceptable for them to drop their heads when gaiting • pacing is a natural, energy-saving gait (but obviously undesirable in the ring)

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MOVEMENT

√

• open-hocked too wide

√

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• converging

• close gait

• cow-hocked

• close behind

• toeing out

• paddling

I am loyal, dignified, intelligent, aloof with strangers, but show no aggression or shyness…

I am Rhodesian Ridgeback Further reading and acknowledgements • Rhodesian Ridgeback: Guide to Judging, by Monika Tusanova • The Definitive Rhodesian Ridgeback, by David Helgesen. • The Rhodesian Ridgeback, the Origin, History and Standard, by T C Hawley. • The Rhodesian Ridgeback Indaba, by J N Murray. • The Rhodesian Ridgeback Today, by Stig. G. Carlson • The Complete Rhodesian Ridgeback, by Peter Nicholson & Janet Parker. © Ed. 3 - 2021 • Original Prepared by Joy McFarlane for the Kennel Union of Southern Africa, with grateful thanks to the collaborators, Janet Wang, and Elrena Stadler

ORIGIN: Southern Africa. Standard supplied by the Kennel Union of Southern Africa and the Zimbabwe Kennel Club. DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE OFFICIAL VALID STANDARD: 10.12.1996. UTILIZATION: The Rhodesian Ridgeback is still used to hunt game in many parts of the world, but is especially prized as watch- dog and family pet. FCI-CLASSIFICATION: • Group 6 Scenthounds and related breeds. • Section 3 Related breeds. Without working trial. BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY: The Rhodesian Ridgeback is presently the only registered breed indigenous to southern Africa. Its forbears can be traced to the Cape Colony of Southern Africa, where they crossed with the early pioneer’s dogs and the semi- domesticated, ridged Hottentot hunting dogs. Hunting mainly in groups of two or three, the original function of the Rhodesian Ridgeback or Lion dog was to track game, especially lion, and, with great agility, keep it at bay until the arrival of the hunter. The original standard, which was drafted by F.R.Barnes, in Bulawayo, Rhodesia, in 1922, was based on that of the Dalmatian and was approved by the South African Kennel Union in 1926. GENERAL APPEARANCE: The Rhodesian Ridgeback should represent a well balanced, strong, muscular, agile and active dog, symmetrical in outline, and capable of great endurance with a fair amount of speed. The emphasis is on agility, elegance and soundness with no tendency towards massiveness. The peculiarity of the breed is the ridge on the back, which is formed by the hair growing in the opposite direction to the rest of the coat. The ridge is the escutcheon of the breed. The ridge must be clearly defined, symmetrical and tapering towards the haunch. It must start immediately behind the shoulders and continue to the hip (haunches) bones. The ridge must contain only two crowns, identical and opposite each other. The lower edges of the crowns must not extend further down the ridge than one-third of its length. A good average width of the ridge is 5cm (2”). BEHAVIOUR / TEMPERAMENT: Dignified, intelligent, aloof with strangers, but showing no aggression or shyness. HEAD CRANIAL REGION: Skull: Should be of a hair length (width

of head between ears, distance from occiput to stop, stop to end of nose, should be equal), flat and broad between the ears; the head should be free from wrinkles when in repose. Stop: The stop should be reasonably well defined and not in one straight line from the nose to the occipital bone. FACIAL REGION: Nose: The nose should be black or brown. A black nose should be accompanied by dark eyes, a brown nose by amber eyes. Muzzle: The muzzle should be long, deep and powerful. Lips: The lips should be clean, closely fitting the jaws. Jaws/Teeth: Jaws strong, with a perfect and complete scissor bite, i.e. the upper teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set square to the jaws. The teeth must be well developed, especially the canines or holders. Cheeks: Cheeks should be clean. EYES: Should be moderately well apart, round, bright and sparkling, with intelligent expression, their colour harmonising with the colour of the coat. EARS: Should be set rather high, of medium size, rather wide at base, and gradually tapering to a rounded point. They should be carried close to the head. NECK: Should be fairly long, strong and free from throatiness.

Should be strong with light spring. Forefeet: The feet should be compact and round, with well arched toes and tough, elastic pads, protected by hair between the toes and pads. HINDQUARTERS: General appearance: In the hind legs the muscles should be clean and well defined. Stifle: Good turn of stifle. Hock: Strong, well let down. Hind feet: The feet should be compact and round, with well arched toes and tough, elastic pads, protected by hair between the toes and pads. GAIT / MOVEMENT: Straight forward, free and active. COAT Hair: Should be short and dense, sleek and glossy in appearance, but neither woolly nor silky. Colour: Light wheaten to red wheaten. A little white on the chest and toes is permissible, but excessive white hairs here, on belly, or above toes is undesirable. A dark muzzle and ears permissible. Excessive black hairs throughout the coat are highly undesirable. SIZE AND WEIGHT: Height at withers:

BODY:

Dogs: 63-69 cm (25” -27”).

Back: Powerful.

Bitches: 61-66 cm (24” -26”).

Loins: Strong, muscular and slightly arched.

Weight:

Chest: Should not be too wide, but very deep and capacious; the brisket should reach to the elbow. Forechest should be visible when viewed from the side. Ribs moderately well sprung, never rounded like barrel-hoops. TAIL: Should be strong at the root and gradually tapering towards the end, free form coarseness. It should be of moderate length. It should not be attached too high nor too low, and should be carried with a slight curve upwards, never curled. LIMBS FOREQUARTERS: General appearance: The forelegs should be perfectly straight, strong and well boned, with the elbows close to the body. When viewed from the side, the forelegs should be wider than viewed from the front. Shoulder: The shoulders should be sloping, clean and muscular. Pastern:

Dogs: 36,5 kg (80 lbs). Bitches: 32 kg (70 lbs). FAULTS: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog. DISQUALIFYING FAULTS: Aggressive or overly shy dogs. Any dog clearly showing physical of behavioural abnormalities. N.B.: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum. Only functionally and clinically healthy dogs, with breed typical conformation should be used for breeding.

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10.12.1996/EN FCI-STANDARD N° 146 RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK

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Wri tte n by

Petra Johansson

THE SIGNIFICANT FOUNDATION

All dogs need good body control, balance, strength, and mobility. Both to reduce the risk of injury, but we also increase the level of performance in most dog sports and in everyday life. In this article, we will look at how you by simple exercises can help your dog train just this. To train dogs on balance balls is an excellent form of activation! In addition to the benefits, it gives a dog from a physical point of view, it is fantastic fun to train, and it is for the more insecure individuals also stronger self-confidence. When you train balance and body control, you do not have to use balance balls or other balance tools. You can also use things that you have at home or out in nature. For example, a sofa cushion, an air mattress or the use of logs and stones in the forest. What is body control, balance, strength, and mobility? Body control, balance, strength, and mobility is not about hanging heavy weights on the dog or running long distances. It is instead about proprioception, articulated muscles, and torso stability. It’s about training with control and focus, a few minutes a day. Body control, balance, strength, and mobility are the basis for all other training that your dog needs. Without this foundation, even cardio training can become a risk of injury, just because the dog does not have a good foundation to stand on and without this foundation, you cannot train increased strength and endurance. You must start somewhere, and it is here, whether you want to create a future world star in agility or IPO, a dog show champion, or if you want to give your best friend the right conditions for a long and healthy life.

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BODY CONTROL, BALANCE, STRENGTH, AND MOBILITY

All dogs need to train their torso stability, even if they do not train or compete specifically. If the dog has a good torso stability, it is able to handle its body when unexpected things happen out on a normal walk. A paw that steps in a hole, the ground may be slippery and a leg slides out to the side, the dog is frightened by something and jumps to the side and steps obliquely. In all these events, the dog can be seriously injured, and we end up in surgery due to a torn cruciate ligament, broken wrist, or ruptured muscles. If your dog knows where its body is, where it has its hind paws (these are usually the ones that are most difficult to keep track of) and how it should coordinate its movements, you have a dog that clearly has a greater chance of a life without injuries when something unexpected happens.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF BALANCE TOOLS Disc

FItBONE

DISC

HALF BALLS

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The discs are great as a starting tool for dogs. If the dog has a very poor balance, the risk of injury is minimal if you stand on a balance disc and work. We can combine them in different ways. The important thing is that the dog has straight leg joints and a straight back, just as they usually stand. Half balls Half balls, available in variants such as smooth or with spikes. The spikes let the paws get some contact with the central nervous system and the dog can feel its paws better. We also get some acupressure under the pads which helps to increase circulation in the feet.

EGGBALL

Fitbone Fitbone, available in different sizes. Has a few spikes on one side that help and stimulate the nervous system, and make the PEANUT

dog feel the paws better and increase circulation in the feet. Peanut, oblong in shape and basically moves only sideways, not so much back and forth. This makes it a good tool to work dogs that may have some form of impairment. The ball is very stable and good, and it is easier for us as pet owners to hold. On this ball, it is intended that the dog should work completely on top of the ball. Remember that it should be long enough so that your dog can stand up with straight leg joints and a straight back. Eggball The egg ball is the most complete tool we can work with. It is shaped like an egg, oval. It moves well in all directions and edges, which means that the dog must work with his body control, with his balance and with his torso stability to be able to stabilize and stand well on this ball. Here we have a complete tool to work with when it comes to core training, balance training, torso stability and body control.

It depends on what kind of person we are, what kind of dog you have and previous experience. Is the dog healthy or does it have any injury or perhaps a joint disease that prevents it from using the body properly?

HOW MUCH SPACE DO WE HAVE AT HOME? Do we just want to train the basics? i.e., get a good torso stability, good body control and body awareness in the dog or do we want to train sport-specific things? The important thing to remember, is that the dog should be able to train functionally, i.e., it should be able to use its body on the ball or the balance tool you have in the same way as it then uses its body in everyday life. So, we cannot stand with the dog up on a normal round Pilates ball for humans, because then the dog will stand with its legs under it and a very curved back. How often does your

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Peanut

SO, WHICH BALL SHOULD WE CHOOSE?

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dog stand like that in everyday life? If we were to train the dog in that position, we would strengthen those muscles in the wrong position. Therefor it is very important that the dog can stand correctly with the body, as it uses its body in everyday life when we train on balance tools.

STARTING POINT How long you should train on the ball depends a bit on what your starting point is. Has your dog trained anything on a ball or other unstable surfaces before?

Has your dog trained balance, coordination, body control and torso stability in other ways? How much exercise and movement do you and your dog have on a daily basis?

It is easy to think that our dogs are well trained. We walk several hours / miles a day and we may train or compete in some sport. But do we train any torso stability? It is very tough training with balance ball, and the dogs often cannot last more than a minute even though we think they are well trained. We must work individually. It is very easy to overwork the dog, so they feel it’s too hard to train on the ball and does not want to do it anymore. Therefor we prefer to start with very short sessions and increase gradually. It is obviously important to know if your dog is healthy or if it has an injury or illness. If it has an injury or illness, I want you to contact your veterinarian or physiotherapist to know for sure if your dog can train on a balance ball.

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Set the clock Training on a balance ball is very hard training for the dog because it trains muscles that it does not usw otherwise. Of course, it also works with the large so-called movement muscles, but it is the small stabilizers in the body that should work when we train on the ball and that takes a lot of strength.

SAFETY IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT! Stabilize the ball It can be very easy for the dog to injure itself if you do not have full control of the ball. Most dogs love ball training and take the chance to jump on the ball as fast as they can, and if you do not have control then the ball it can roll away and the dog falls to the floor. The most important time is when the dog jumps up or down, because it is then easy for the ball to roll to the side. So be sure to always keep an eye on the ball and the dog. Make sure you have the treats so close to you, that you never have to let go of the ball to reach it. It’s a lot harder than you think

Because it is also so much fun for both you and your dog, it is so easy to forget the time and work for too long. The dog then risks a strong overexertion and can become so dull that it becomes shaky and unable to stand on its feet. In the beginning you can train several shorter sessions where the dog goes down and rests in between and then you can carry on longer than you can do if you run a single session, where the dog works continuously. Remember that ball training should be the most fun there is, so reward them with lot of good treats.

BASIC EXERCISES The important basics It is important to train the dog right from the start. We want a functional training where the dog trains his strength, stability, balance, and body control in a controlled way. If you allow the dog to stand crooked and twisted with its legs, it does not train an evenly muscled

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body. They will put all weight on the legs instead of the small stabilizing muscles.

ance a bit and the body must respond with the small articulated stabilizing muscles.

BUT!! With that said, the dog must get there gradually. Let the dog stand with a slightly curved back or a leg a little more below it or behind it in the beginning. As the dog understands what to do and becomes stronger, you can demand more from it.

One of the basic exercises is to move the dog’s nose from side to side and up and down. The important thing is that the dog’s paws are steady because otherwise the stabilizing muscles do not work as we want them to.

Then we start with basic exercises Stand up and stand on one leg. Depending on how good your balance is, you probably feel that you will find a pretty good balance after a while. Now you look to the right… to the left… up to the ceiling… down to the floor. If you do not have extremely good balance, I am sure that you at least wobbled a little in the ankle when you turned your head. Moving the gaze causes us to lose bal-

So, while the paws are still all the time, you entice the dog to move his nose in different directions. Start with very small movements and remember to always work the same amount on both the right and left. Perhaps the dog has more difficulty moving its nose to the left, for example, it loses its balance earlier than it does in the other direction. We then let the weaker side decide how far we go. When the weaker side becomes stronger, we can gradually increase how far we can ask the dog to stretch.

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We always do the same in both directions and alternately high and low and right and left.

If the dog moves its paws, then we have pushed too hard or too fast.

We work both high and low to the sides. When we work low, the dog’s legs work more and when we work high up, we work more with the back and torso.

HALF BALLS

The goal is that they will eventually be able to stretch all the way back to the buttocks, to the hips and all the way back to the hind paws without moving their feet.

PULL & PUSH Another basic exercise is to very gently pull and push a little on the dog’s body. We do not want to push the dog over. Just get it a little out of balance so it must resist and train its stabilizers. As soon as the dog tenses and resists, we let go and move our hand. It is good if we can move along the entire body of the dog, and both sides. We can start practicing this on the floor and then transfer it to unstable surfaces. This is a static workout and it’s very difficult to stand like that (example front legs on disc, hind legs on floor. Of course we also pull and push with only hind legs on disc in exactly the same way). So, we train in short phases.

A very good exercise is to train the dog’s toes, wrists and hocks on small half balls or spiked balls. It helps to strengthen the dog’s flexor tendons and joints. It is very common for dogs to get osteoarthritis in their toes as they get older, and this exercise is very good both to prevent tear osteoarthritis but also to soften the tears that have already developed osteoarthritis. And in our breed ruptured tendon is common when the dog gets older. This exercise is also good for stretching tendons and make them a little bit softer, so hopefully they do not rupture Stand up there for a moment. Stand shoulder-width apart with your feet and let your toes point straight ahead. Calmly and slowly, lean forward all the way from the bottom of your ankles, do not cheat by bending your hips. Feel how you work, how you stretch your toes so as not to fall forward. This is exactly how we want to train the dog’s toes. Ideal would be that the paw is in the middle up or a little downhill (forward), when training on half balls.

Of course, we also work here with front and rear paws The hind legs need a little extra Since our dogs put about 65% of their weight on the front legs, it is natural that they lose muscle in their buttocks first. Therefore, it is good to train the hind legs a little extra.

What should I consider? A good way to determine if the exercise is appropriate for your dog is to ask yourself a few simple questions regarding the exercise. • Is the exercise a body control exercise, a balance exercise, or a strength training exercise?

How do we do that then?!

• What should I train?

To be able to train the hind legs a little more, we need to move the dog’s weight from the front legs to the hind legs and we do this most easily by setting up the front legs on something higher. The easiest is if you start by having the hind legs on a balance disc and the front legs on a low stool. How high the stool should be depends of course on what size of dog you have, but feel free to start with only a very small difference in height between the front and back paws. When the dog has trained on it for a while, you can gradually raise the front more and more.

• What is the difficulty level of the exercise for my dog?

Then we entice the dog to stretch upwards for treats to sway a little backwards downwards and then upwards again. Then a little to the sides, just like in the other exercises. When we get the front part up, we get a lot more weight on the dog’s hind legs, which means that this is a very tough training.

What is the difficulty level of the exercise? If the degree of difficulty is more difficult than what your dog is trained to be able to perform, your dog should not do the exercise, regardless of the age of the dog. How often can you train? Healthy dog, several times a week. It depends on what you want to achieve. For what period of time can you train? Healthy dog start with 1 minute session x3 with 1min rest between sessions. Increase gradually by 1min a week and hurry slowly.

Keep in mind that if your dog has back pain, it should not be in this position with a sloping back. A dog that has back pain should always stand with its back in a straight line.

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GOOD LUCK! AND REMEMBER THAT IT IS THE FOUNDATION THAT MAKES THE DOG

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Written by

Denise Flaim

Getting Mouthy

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Can we please correct the misunderstanding regarding complete dentition in the Ridgeback?

hen you are a 5-year-old, getting a visit from the tooth fairy is a good thing. After all, who doesn’t like waking up to money under their pillow?

But when you are a Ridgeback exhibitor, encountering a tooth fairy in the ring is a decidedly less pleasant experience. In dogs, “tooth fairy,” of course, is a derogatory term used to describe those judges who are obsessed with finding a full complement of teeth – 20 on top, 22 on the bottom – even when they do not need to be. Now, let’s be clear: There are some breeds in which counting teeth is an absolute requirement because their standards demand it. Shame on any judge on any continent, for example, who does not do a complete and thorough mouth exam on a Doberman Pinscher. The problem is, the Rhodesian Ridgeback is not one of those breeds.

The root of this confusion can be traced to a serious misreading of the FCI Ridgeback standard. To begin with, let’s clarify the difference between occlusion and dentition. Occlusion refers to how the teeth fit together – in other words, the type of bite. The Rhodesian Ridgeback FCI standard states that the desired occlusion is the scissor bite, as do all the Ridgeback breed standards across the world. Dentition, by contrast, refers to the number of teeth. The Rhodesian Ridgeback standard does not address dentition. I may be across the ocean, but I can already hear the objections of the tooth-counters from here: “That is incorrect! The FCI standard requires complete dentition!” Does it? Let’s take a closer look. Under “Facial Region,” the FCI standard says the following:

Right there in the first sentence we find the phrase that so many tooth fairies use to justify their counting of teeth: “a perfect and complete scissor bite.”

In fact, let’s look at the current Chihuahua standard in Great Britain. What does it say under “Mouth”? “Jaws strong, with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws.”

“Complete,” they argue, means complete dentition. Unfortunately, they are wrong.

Hmmm. That is, word for word, the same as the description of the Ridgeback bite in the FCI standard, except that the British standard for the Chihuahua tosses in the word “regular” for good measure.

Immediately after the words “perfect and complete scissor bite” comes the exact definition of what those words mean: “i.e. the upper teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set square to the jaws.”

Are British judges refusing to award Chihuahuas that do not have complete dentition? If not, why not, if the description of the Chihuahua bite is identical to that of the Ridgeback in the FCI standard?

“I.e.,” of course, is an abbreviation of the Latin phrase “id est.” What does “id est” mean? It means “that is,” and it is used to specify or explain whatever language came before it.

Next, let’s look at the Bichon Frise standard in force among our British friends. There again we see the same language, with an important addition:

So what does “perfect and complete scissor bite” mean, according to the FCI standard itself? It means perfect and complete occlusion, not dentition. It means that the scissor bite should be perfect and complete. So if a judge would like to penalize a dog for having a level bite, or a reverse scissor bite, or a wry bite, which is a serious structural fault, that is reasonable. The same applies to an anterior cross bite, where some of the upper incisors come in behind the lower incisors instead of in front of them, though the canines are properly placed. This is by definition an imperfect and incomplete scissor bite.

“Jaws strong, with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws. Full dentition desirable.”

(If a judge wants to do more than simply check the bite from the front to ensure that the entire occlusion is correct and there is no misalignment, that is certainly acceptable. This can be easily accomplished by checking the sides of the mouth in addition to the front, but it does not require the mouth to be pried open, nor the teeth counted.) If the above is not evidence enough to convince judges that going diving for molars is not required by the FCI standard, let’s go a bit further in depth. The words “perfect and complete scissor bite” come from a time, decades ago, when the Ridgeback standard was controlled by The Kennel Club in Great Britain. The British standardized much of the language across breeds, and the phrase “perfect and complete scissor bite” can still be found in the British standards of a wide variety of breeds, including some Toys.

So in the Bichon, where it is appropriate to pay close attention to the number of teeth, a sentence had to be added to the standard to describe dentition. That is because the previous sentence – “perfect, regular and complete scissor bite” – describes only occlusion. The same applies to the British standard for the Borzoi, one of the few hounds in which dentition is a concern. And there it is again, another sentence added to address the number of teeth: “Jaws strong with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws. Full, strong dentition desirable.” When judging dogs, what matters is having a respect for and understanding of a breed’s roots and traditions. The Rhodesian Ridgeback has never been a breed in which counting teeth has been customary. And it is not a breed that takes well to having an intrusive oral exam. So, please, judges, do not continue to perpetuate the errors you see your colleagues making by wrenching open the mouths of Ridgebacks in order to see their tonsils. You have the standard firmly on your side. And our handlers – to say nothing of our dogs – will appreciate you for it.

Denise Flaim of Revodana Rhodesian Ridgebacks in Sea Cliff, New York, is an AKC-approved judge of various breeds in FCI Groups 2, 4, 5, 6 and 10 who has been privileged to judge large entries of Ridgebacks in Italy, Germany, Denmark and France. The former publisher of the Ridgeback Register magazine, she is the author of “Your Rhodesian Ridgeback Puppy: The Ultimate Guide to Finding, Rearing and Appreciating the Best Companion Dog in the World.” She welcomes questions and comments at denise@ revodanapublishing.com.

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Jaws/Teeth: Jaws strong, with a perfect and complete scissor bite, i.e. the upper teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set square to the jaws. The teeth must be well developed, especially the canines or holders.

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Photo by Rebecca Heini

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AN INTERVIEW WITH A JUDGE Greetings from Italy

PLEASE INTRODUCE YOURSELF TO OUR READERS. My family is from Rome, but I was born in a nice mountain village in central Italy and my life with dogs started in my early childhood. When I was 6 years old my family and I moved to the city of Naples where I had my first dog, a lovely Boxer female. Naples is the city where I carried out my studies and where I am still living. After achieving my degree in Architecture, I moved to England for a couple of years and there I met a lovely Rhodesian Ridgeback female, the one that made me fall in love with the breed. Later, in 1985, I bought my first Rhodesian Ridgeback male and, in 1986, I entered my first dog show. In 1988, I bought a female Rhodesian Ridgeback, my foundation bitch. In 1995 I obtained, together with my husband, the FCI kennel affix “Murenga”. Over the years, I developed a strong interest in the Ridgeback breed and its history. Since 1990 and for some years, I published an Italian magazine devoted to the Rhodesian Ridgeback breed (La razza RR –The RR breed) and, in 1997 I went on a journey to Zimbabwe (formerly Rhodesia) on a historical trip (organized by Linda Costa) along the footprints and the places of the peoples who had developed the breed. The trip to Zimbabwe was also the chance to watch the 75th Anniversary Show of the Parent Club, a great opportunity to see some Ridgebacks in their homeland. I am a member of the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Italy since its foundation, of which I was the President for some years in the past. Today, I am the National Kennel Club representative on the Club Board. I am also a member of the board of Naples Kennel Club and ENCI representative in national and international dog shows in Italy. Recently ENCI appointed me as a mentor for the Rhodesian Ridgeback breed. In 2006, supported by my husband, I started my studies to become a dog judge and since then I

have judged RRs in Italy and abroad, and at several Rhodesian Ridgeback Specialties and Club shows abroad.

WHEN DID YOUR LOVE OF DOGS BEGIN? PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR PAST AND PRESENT DOGS. I had an early start with dogs, my father was a dog lover too, particularly fond of Boxers, and we had this lovely cheerful breed at home since I was 6. I have fond remembrances of my childhood with our Boxers. The first one was a female with whom I shared lots of childhood games, I used to cycle with her at my side (in a safe area!!), and share my bed with her. Later on we had a joyful male, named Satana (like the devil) but he was such a couch potato, he was at my side as a teen ager and then through my early university years. I remember long walks at night before my exams, feeling safe and protected by him late at night. After him, my father did not want dogs anymore as Satana death was such a blow to him, but later on I managed to have at home a Siamese cat who lived with me for about 21 years. I remember my mother having birds at some time but I found out I am not very keen on birds! After some years I managed to have a dog again, he was my first RR, Janak Yaro, a male from UK. He had a lovely temperament, he was a true gentlemen. We started showing him and immediately got hooked on the sport! Our second RR was a bitch from Germany, Johokwe Goldy from Mrs. Rosy Brook-Risse kennel. Goldy was our foundation bitch, very balanced temperament, very affectionate with the family, very protective over my child, she was a lovely companion to live with. Unfortunately she died from bloat, not surviving the emergency surgery, leaving us with a few day old litter. I still miss her. From her litter we kept a female, who later on became an Italian Champion. Another female from the same litter went to another breeder and became a producer of Cham-

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SANDRA PISCEDDA

RR Club show Israel

pions. We have not had litters very often, but we had several champions over the years. Murenga Makololo, owned by a dear friend, was It. Ch. and was quite successful in European dog shows being awarded twice res. CC. He was also CC at our Club shows under judges like Petra Stracke and John Sigve-Berg. From my last litter in 2010 I kept a nice female, Murenga Ondini - Dina, but unfortunately long-lasting family matters prevented me from showing and breeding her. She has a friendly temperament, playful attitude, and recently she adopted a stray cat that now is a full member of our family. I regret not having had further litters but family comes first.

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HOW DID YOU GET INTRODUCED TO THIS BREED? My husband Marco and I learned of the existence of this breed from our friend Bruno. Both of us were brought up with dogs: Marco with Dachshunds and myself with Boxers. During the early ‘80s, we started missing a furry friend at home, and we made up our minds about having a Golden retriever (at that time quite rare in Italy). Then, when talking with Bruno about our decision, he told us in a dog magazine he had seen a strange breed named Rhodesian Ridgeback and that this breed presented a funny stripe on the back. We immediately did some research and found out that this breed was very interesting and decided to go and see one specimen. At that time I was living in Oxford, UK, and after consulting some dog magazines I found a RR kennel very close to my place: Mrs. Janet Grimwood’s Caldas. We arrived at Janet’s place eager to seeing this “ridged” dog, and when Janet opened a door and Carla, a superb bitch, entered the room, we were speechless, hit by the essence of beauty of the RR. Carla carefully sniffed us, then sat at our side. She had confirmed to her owner she could trust us: we passed her examination and Mrs. Grimwood re-

laxed. Janet was very kind, telling us everything we did not know yet about the breed and let us visit and stroke the other RRs in the kennel. It was a very worthwhile afternoon and Carla’s attitude and beauty made us decide that this was our breed, definitely. And this is how our story with Rhodesian Ridgebacks began, thanks to Bruno and Carla. But there is still a bit more to tell you about getting our first puppy! Mrs. Grimwood was going to have a litter soon. Once back in Italy we were excitedly awaiting the end of the pregnancy. We had decided to have a male, but, when the time came, all females were born! Hence Janet put us in touch with Mrs. Elisabeth Webster, of Janak Kennel. Elizabeth too was about to have a litter, and on 6th April 1985 Janak Yaro, our first Rhodesian Ridgeback, was born! Three months later he landed at Rome airport. We arrived there worried for the heath and the procedures at Customs. Luckily enough, the crate was delivered quite soon, and when, full of emotion, we opened it, Yaro slowly crept out and curled up at our feet. Holding him in our arms and not leaving him for twelve years, till he left us, was just one thing.

WHEN DID YOU START WITH YOUR JUDGING CAREER AND WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO BECOME A JUDGE? PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR JUDGE’S CAREER AND YOUR HIGHLIGHTS. I never thought about becoming a judge, it was my husband who pressed me to start the judging career. He thought I was so involved in studying

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RR Club Show in Moscow, Russia

ond group I judged, followed by full group 10, and some breeds from groups 8 and 9 so far. At the present I am completing Group 8.

RR Club Show in Moscow, Russia

the breed (at the time I was also publishing an Italian magazine about the breed) that he believed it was a pity not to invest my passion in becoming a judge. He had been involved with the foundation of the RR Club of Italy, of which later on I became a member of the Board (still now) and former President. It took me some time to decide whether to be a judge or not. I felt judging was not an easy task to embark upon, but in the end I sent the application form to the Italian Kennel Club, ENCI. It was in 2004 that my request was approved and I started the education path. Unfortunately ENCI went through some internal issues, the exams were suspended for a while but in the end, in 2006 I passed the final exam and I was approved as judge. Soon after I judged RR for the first time in a national dog show in Naples. It was a lovely show, at the start I was offered a wonderful bunch of flowers, and I truly enjoyed to admire the breed from inside the ring, a thoroughly new perspective. After obtaining the license to judge RR I carried on studying other breeds from FCI group 6: Beagle, Basset hound are the ones I remember following the RRs. Group 6 is a large and varied group, it took a lot of studying for completing it, about two years. Then, as my husband owned Dachshund since he was a child and having listened to many stories from his childhood and youth about this breed, I instinctively had felt in love with this breed which became the sec-

DID YOU EVER HAVE A MENTOR? ARE YOU MENTORING NEW COMERS? Yes, I had a mentor. Having a mentor is part of the ENCI education process for judges, they assign a mentor to each new candidate judge. I had an excellent mentor, Mr. Antonino di Trapani. He is a well known Italian Judge of Group 3, 4, 8, 10 and he has been judging Rhodesian Ridgeback since the breed was in Group 8 many years ago. Mr. Di Trapani was a great mentor, not only for dog conformation, but also for whatever is around dog judging: ethics, ring management, judge competences, attitude towards exhibitors, respect and kindness to them but also firmness, awareness of the context in which one is judging, dealing with ring stewards, solving issues, that was a lot of learning you need to practice in the field (ring). At dog shows people, dogs, environments vary a lot so the more you experience under the guide of a mentor the more you gain confidence. I mentored new comers for several breeds of Group 6, but not for RRs. Recently I was officially appointed by ENCI as mentor for the Rhodesian Ridgeback breed.

HOW DO YOU DEFINE THE TYPE? I define type as those specific features which make a dog identifiable as belonging to a definite breed and not to another breed. Type is what makes individuals recognisable as belonging to a specific breed because they share those specific

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What I observe at the present is incorrect front angulation, or rather incorrect front assembly. I believe this feature is very important as the correct front enables an easy ground covering action and if the front matches the rear angulation, the dog takes less steps to cover the same ground, thus reducing waste of energy and impact to the ground, which enhances endurance. Long loins also are a problem because they weaken the backline and dissipate the transmission of drive from the rear to the front. Light coloured eye, frequently encountered, though not a structural fault, do alter the RR expression (and expression is a component of type); recently I also noticed some specimen showing too much distance between hock point and the ground, thin thigh with little muscling, thin hocks seen from the side and some having too many black hairs on the head, neck and tail.

RR Club show Austria

features. The main features which build up “type” are described in the standard. The features the standard describes portray the appearance of the dog as dictated by the function it was selected to perform. The function of the breed is described in the standard as well. Another very important component of type: temperament. It is not to be forgotten that dogs have evolved the way they are because selected by man to serve a purpose, and to serve that purpose the dog not only must have a specific structure, but also that specific temperament as described in the standard.

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IS THERE SOMETHING WHICH YOU WOULD LIKE TO CHANGE IN THE BREED? Not really, I think the breed is well preserved by our standard. I would ask breeders, I am referring to newcomers in particular, to study a lot before breeding, they should get a deep grasp of the standard, of the history of the breed, of the purpose the breed was selected for, of its very special temperament. They should investigate what is beyond the standard and consider the meaning of its wording in the light of history and purpose. They should look at reputable breeders’ breeding, talk to them, learn from them. They should be inquisitive about pedigrees, bloodlines, health issues, and genetics. It seems quite a burden but the path to knowledge is hard. In this way they would protect and preserve the breed.

EVERY BREED HAS SOME COMMON PROBLEMS. WHICH IS THE MOST COMMON PROBLEM IN RR?

WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT POINT OF WHICH YOU WOULD LIKE A JUDGE OF THE BREED TO BE AWARE? With due respect and trust in fellow colleagues, awareness should be first on type that is conformation and balance, temperament and soundness, movement. And also proportion (body length to height at writers, body length to legs length, bones to size), good length of ribs and compact loin, balance of front and rear angulation, effortless gait showing reach and drive and straight true when coming and going. Lastly, something which I reckon quite important: expression. Look for those round dark eyes with that intelligent, alert yet soft expression (sometime spoiled by almond shaped eyes and very light eye colour). When you gently bend over the dog and meet that lovely gaze you recognize it because it melts your heart.

WHAT QUALITIES DO YOU ADMIRE MOST IN A JUDGE? Knowledge of the breed and personal integrity, kindness to people, gentle approach to dogs, understanding of RR temperament, paying equal time and attention to each single exhibit in the ring, willingness to give explanation if asked for by exhibitors, respect for their role as representative of the judging body when officiating in the ring.

WHAT CHARACTERISTICS MAKE A GOOD JUDGE IN YOUR OPINION? I think I partially answered in the previous question: knowledge, integrity, kindness to dogs and people. I would also add attitude to giving explanations, even with a few words, to people about why their dog was placed, for instance, 2nd or resCC, or was graded very good, so as to provide

Photos by Michael Bossard

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RR Club Swisse

guidance to the breeders or to the prospective breeders. Guidance from judges is part of the purpose of dog shows. But, unfortunately, time constraints often do not allow the judge to do so for each exhibit.

WHAT DIFFERENCES DO YOU SEE IN THE JUDGES TODAY AS OPPOSED TO THOSE IN THE BEGINNING OF YOUR CAREER? Today there are many young judges going quickly into the career (not a negative note intended here), whereas many years ago judges were fewer, older, and they were at top career late in age thus being highly knowledgeable, of renowned experience and deep knowledge of dogs. There are excellent young judges today too, of course, what I mean is that back then, the education process was much longer in years and somehow more severe. When I was in their rings be it for showing

or for training I felt frozen with awe at such big names! Could this be because I was quite young compared to them while today I am a bit older than most of the younger? Maybe.

WHAT IS YOUR MOST MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE AS A JUDGE? My most memorable experience was some years ago when I judged in Moscow, Russia, at a Club show with an entry of more than 100 RRs. It was memorable not just because of the large number of RRs, but also because the dogs were of excellent quality, which sometimes you can see only when big numbers gather. I enjoyed each single dog and bitch, I remember the show was in a large site indoors, and we were still there when the cleaners came for the late night cleaning…the competition for best head, ridge, gait, ballerina and so on were still ongoing, after BOB and BOS.

My first judging of RR in IDS Napoli

Photo by Benny Fisher

They had a lot of awards for this and that, it was really a memorable day! The dog I put up as BOB is behind very successful todays dogs, so I am pleased with that “long term” result!

HOW HAS THE DOG SCENE CHANGED OVER THE LAST DECADES?

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RR Club show in Denmark

IDS Messina, Italy

Undoubtedly it has changed somehow. The dog show scene has evolved in a much more competitive arena. Today many exhibitors –or their handlersgo straight for BOB, Group win, or BIS. Personally I think that Groups and BIS are a bit beyond the true meaning of breed evaluation, but I understand it is fully part of the show system, firmly embedded in it. Any change would not be easy today. In a Club show or Specialty, I would finish with Best male and Best female – rather than BOBBOS- so as to give both males and females their due merits to their own sex and a guidance in both sexes separately. Today, as compared to some years ago, there are more professional handlers, some excellent professional, but broadly speaking this

Photo by Karin Frostemo

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RR Club show in Sweden

has brought about a misunderstanding about true RR’s movement, as often dogs are raced in the ring as if running for their life, thus spoiling the dog’s true gait. I see that owners often gait their dogs much better than handlers, with loose lead and better steps timing with the dog gait.

HAVE BREED STANDARDS CHANGED VERY MUCH SINCE YOU BEGAN YOUR JUDGING CAREER? DO YOU SEE ANY DIFFERENCE IN RR OF TODAY COMPARED TO RR OF 10 YEARS AGO? IF SO, WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCES YOU SEE? No, the breed standard has not changed since I started my judging career, and in my opinion it should not change. The breed is well preserved by our standard, it gives stability to the breed as it guides breeders toward a more or less common interpretation of the breed fundamental characteristics it sums up. I cannot see big differences in RRs today compared to those of 10 years ago. Broadly speaking, in some countries, where I judged for the first time some years ago, today I can see some features have improved: better heads, more substance in females, more balance in body parts. Of

course when improving something, something else may be lost. Breeding is a matter of knowledge, bloodlines and conformation. It is a continuous search for correct structure and balance for the best functionality as to the breed purpose. So perhaps while the heads I mentioned have improved, the front angulation has straightened, hence it is important to be always aware of the status of the breed at different times. It would be useful if breed Clubs printed a paper on breed priorities on a regular basis, so that breeders and judges can take it into account. Some Clubs do it, but not all. Another change having consequences in the show ring is the upsurge in popularity which increased the number of litters, the number of new breeders and the number of simple owners willing to have puppies. And many newcomers claim themselves to know everything about breeding, but the outcomes I see in the show ring don’t speak to that, hence more specimens enter the ring but the average quality is low. We have more rescues than some years ago. What to do? Would more education be fruitful? Would these people listen? I think this scenario is common to many countries.

WHAT IS THE GREATEST THREAT TO RR TODAY? I think the greatest threat to RR today is the number of new breeders, in particular those less or not interested at all in the welfare and improvement of the breed. I am sure there are many new

IT’S INEVITABLE THAT BREEDS WILL EVOLVE AND CHANGE SOMEWHAT AS NEW GENERATIONS OF BREEDERS TAKE CHARGE. HOW CAN THE ESSENCE - OR TRUE BREED TYPE - BE MAINTAINED?

Photo by Poul Haagen Jensen

A true breed type can be preserved by breeding to the standard. There is no other option. It is clear that the breed standard does not describe every detail of the dog, and it does not describe “why” for instance, the shoulder should be sloping, that is the reason why serious studying is essential to reach beyond what the standard says.

WHAT WOULD BE THE MOST IMPORTANT SINGLE PIECE OF ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO ALL SERIOUS YOUNG BREEDERS?

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RR E.L.S.A.Club show in Germany

breeders who are genuinely involved in the breed, but I am also certain that many do not care. What worries me as a threat is these peoples’ ignorance, because they are not willing to go in depth into pedigrees, in knowing what is behind their dogs or bitches, in discovering what virtues or fails their ancestors produced. They are not able to evaluate virtues and failure of their litters because they do not care. I am not talking of health issues only, a matter to take in due account for the welfare of the breed. Rather I am talking about people producing litters with no interest at all in maintaining, not to say in improving, the breed qualities up to the standard. They are not interested in learning about breeding, and are not willing to wait for the first litter until they know more or gain awareness of what breeding truly means. Luckily we have many concerned and caring breeders looking after our breed!

Studying a lot as breeding has its roots in knowledge and the first step towards knowledge is understanding “type” and type comes from within the standard, the history of the breed, the contexts in which the breed developed in the past and is bred today. Being also aware of scientific progress in carrying out health checks and being always concerned about temperament, being collaborative with other breeders, sharing knowledge with people who are honestly willing to learn.

WOULD YOU LIKE TO ADD SOMETHING? Yes, I would like to thank you for this interview and the readers for thei patient and kindness in reading it! All the best to you all! Regards from Italy.

INFO Name Sandra Piscedda Country Italy Affix Murenga

www / email s.piscedda@iol.it

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KADAMO BREEDER

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My name is Karin Wolgast Fürst and I live in Enköping, a smaller town about an hour away from Stockholm, Sweden. I live on a farm in the countryside with my husband, our three daughters and lots of animals. We have our five dogs, all Rhodesian Ridgebacks, but also horses, alpacas, goats, cats, rabbits and chickens. When I am not working with taking care of all our animals I work as a veterinary nurse at an animal clinic or teaching dog classes.

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For me it all started as a young child. I have always loved animals but was never allowed to have a dog whilst living with my parents. So as soon as I graduated in 2003 at the age of 19 I moved to my own apartment and bought my first dog. His name was SEVCH LP1 RLDN RLDF Hamnuddens Dando af Argos “Dando”. We became such a team and spent all our time together. He really introduced me to the Ridgeback world and I found several new interests. We did blood tracking, people tracking, obedience and rally obedience. He was a lovely boy to work with, especially when we learned how to train with clicker and positive reinforcement. He was a very laidback male, never angry, good with all dogs, animals and people. He was called “uncle Dando” from the age of 2, because of his old man personality. Everyone who met him loved him, he just tilted his head to the side and looked you in the eyes asking for a treat.

Dando

Maddox

He was a one in a million dog and I know I will never have such a dog again. Dando was not a show dog, he only had one testicle and was eventually neutered. Instead, I started my interest in dog shows by showing his brother SEUCH SEVCH Hamnuddens De Stijl af Argos “Vegas”. Vegas and I attended shows both in Sweden and Denmark and he was pretty successful. Having Dando and showing Vegas increased my interest in training dogs which made me

Colin

Moa

Vegas was the sire of Moa and with her I started going to more dog shows. To this day I still remember the day she got her very first CAC. To me as a beginner and not a professional handler it was a big day when she completed her first show champion title. We also competed in blood tracking, obedience and rally obedience. Due to a break in competitions when she had her litters, we started competing in obedience again when she was 10 years old. She impressed so many judges and got top placements and quickly gained her obedience title, LP1. She was a multitalented girl and I am so proud to have her as the foundation of my breeding. She was an excellent mother and a very easy dog to live with, and she left a big whole in my heart when she passed away.

Moa

Yaya

In 2008 two new Ridgebacks came into my life. My twin sister Johanna bought her first dog, CIB NORDUCH BALTCH SEVCH NVCH RLDN SW-10 HEW-11 Roseridge Red Rastaban “Wilson” and I also bought my third Ridgeback. I had fallen head over heels in love with the male AUCH Lionsbane Hes the Boss “Kimba” from Australia and had been in touch with his owner Lisa Kelly about using him on Moa. But then Finnish breeder Anne Sassi, kennel Tarujen was using him on her lovely bitch FINCH Tarujen Osei. So I decided to ask to buy a bitch puppy from her instead, and that is when CIB NORDUCH EECH SEVCH NVCH RLDN RLDF LP1 SEW-10 NORDW-10 Tarujen Uyaya Kadamo “Yaya” came into my life like a whirlwind. She was a bit different to my first

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buy my second Ridgeback in 2006, but this time a bitch called CIB NORDUCH EECH SEVCH NVCH LP1 RLDN RLDF SEVW14 DKVW-16 NORDVW-16 Hamnuddens Fischer “Moa”. I have always said that Moa was destined to be mine and she stayed by my side for 14 years and 5 months.

two Ridgebacks, more speed and energy, such a funny and loving girl. Together we also competed in blood tracking, rally obedience, obedience and dog shows, all of which she had real talent for. She was the family clown, always bringing us joy and making us smile. She had one litter of puppies with AMCH CACH Thornberry Akala. I helped Johanna in the beginning to show Wilson and together we went on several nice show trips both in Sweden and abroad with Yaya, Moa and Wilson winning a lot of shows and titles. Yaya was a true show dog and loved by many different judges throughout the years. In 2008 I registered my kennel under the name Kadamo. The name comes from a combination of names, me KArin, DAndo and MOa. I wanted my first two dogs to always be a part of my future dogs. My very first litter was born in 2009 out of SEVCH Hamnuddens Fendi. Fendi was Moa’s sister and I had the litter in collaboration with her owners. Sire of the litter was SEUCH Zaxxon’s Prince Bosco, and they had 12 lovely puppies. In 2009 I finished my education for Dog trainer and started teaching dog obedience classes. Since then, I have held puppy classes for each of my litters to make sure they all get a good start in life with their new families. My second litter was born in 2010 and is very special to me. It was Moa’s first litter and my sister Johanna’s male Wilson was the sire. They had 7 lovely puppies together all named from the theme of Beatles-songs.

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Moa

Moa, Koya, Yaya, Mira

was rehomed to one of my puppy buyers in 2020 and she was never used in breeding.

Out of their first litter I kept SEVCH Kadamo Comin’ home “Tiya”. She only went to a couple of shows before Covid-19 came and all shows and competitions were cancelled. So we have had a long wait and finally got to start showing again this summer. She has already had placements in Best bitch with R-CAC and R-CACIBs in Sweden, but the best so far was her first show in Finland where she was Best of Breed and Best in Group-4. Tiya is not just pretty, she is a lovely and crazy girl. She is eager to work, always comes jumping and flying through the air and loves kisses and cuddles. An absolute clown who makes us laugh all the time.

Colin

Throughout the years there have been a total of 14 litters born in my kennel and my original pack of dogs are no longer with me. But my house never gets empty. During the years I have kept bitches from my own breeding as well as bought males from other bloodlines to be able to use in my breeding programme. First girl from my breeding to stay at home was CIB SEUCH NUCH FIUCH DKUCH EECH SEVCH LP1 RLDN RLDF Kadamo Bringin’ It Back “Mira” born 2012 in my Elvis-litter. This was Moa’s last litter and if you remember the sire of Yaya was AUCH Lionsbane Hes the Boss. Well for this final litter I decided to use him myself after all, so AI with frozen semen gave me nine beautiful puppies. My second homebred bitch that stayed with us was SEUCH NUCH FINCH SEVCH RLDN Kadamo I’m In It for the Gold “Koya” born 2015 in my Gold-litter. She was the dog I wasn’t supposed to have but just could not sell. She was a showstopper and did amazing in the showring. At her very first show in junior class she was Best of Breed, Best in Group and got to run in the Best in Show final! It set the standard for her whole show career. Unfortunately, Koya did not get clear X-rays so she

Just when covid-19 had started last spring I found my next “I have to have” litter but this time here in Sweden. Two of Swedens most Top winning dogs had a litter and I bought one of the males, SEVCH Ave Caesar Diamond Jewel By Rubi “Maddox”. The dam was CIB NORDUCH EECH RUCH SEVCH NOJW-17 NORDW-18 Elangeni Friends in Hi Places “Rubi” and sire CIB NORDUCH SEUCH EECH HRCH SLCH SEVCH BISS-17 Ave Caesar Drive I’m Yours to Keep “Royce”. Maddox spent his first year in a foster family, but when they could not keep him, he moved in with us at the farm. Maddox is an energetic and always happy dog. He has just started his show career this summer and done it better than well. He has been placed in Best male at all shows but one! Gaining both CAC and CACIB. This summer a puppy from my Michael Jackson-litter really caught my eye. She was pretty, but more than that she charmed me. She made herself impossible to sell, so our youngest member of the family is Kadamo The Girl is Mine “Hailey”. She is third generation Kadamo, with her greatgrandmother being Moa, her grandmother Mira, and her mother SEVCH Kadamo Give Me a High Five “Segra”. Her sire is stunning German male Akono Nayoma Lajaani Spencer. She is still young so we have not done much yet, but hoping she will have achievements to brag about in the future. My main goal in breeding has always been to pro-

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In 2016 I found a planned litter in Norway that was out of two dogs that I really liked. Once again, a male that I had looked at using myself, but this time he was mating one of my favorite bitches so I wanted a puppy from the combination instead. The dam was NORDUCH Amatonga’s Duniwa Dana and the sire INT CH ISR GRAND CH ISR CH ISR JR CH Leopold Amnon Berezin Rich-Rach. From this litter I bought SEUCH FINCH NUCH SEVCH NOJW17 NORDJW-17 FINJW-17 HEJW-17 HEW-17 Amatonga’s Golden Boy to Kadamo “Colin”. Colin is the most people friendly dog I have ever had. We have had a lot of fun in the showring as well as blood tracking and training obedience. He has so far sired three litters in Sweden and one in Finland. Two of the litters have been mine with my girl Mira.

duce healthy dogs that will work well as active family dogs. I try to be picky when choosing which bitches I will use in breeding and to be just as picky when finding the perfect male to match. I do like my Ridgebacks a bit more open and social towards people than the average Ridgeback. I think this makes them easier to live with. Since I have met a lot of very shy Ridgebacks both through my work but also in other situations, I think that those dogs are more difficult to own. Not all of my breedings have become more social but many of them are. I am happy to often hear wonderful comments from my puppy owners, getting praises from other people about their dogs, their nice personalities and behaviour, which is of course not all genes but good work from the owners who have trained them well.

Mira

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I have always enjoyed working with my own dogs in different dog sports which has made me try to breed a more versatile and energetic dog, that will be easier to live an active dog life with. And I do think I have achieved that, to the extent that I am now making sure not to double the energy in my litters. If the bitch is of sporty energetic type I don’t pick a male with the same energy. When it comes to exterior, I do have vision in my head of what I prefer in type. The hard thing is to make every single piece come out right in every litter. My focus has been to try to improve fronts. But there are not many stud dogs available with good front angulation that at the same time fits all other aspects on my wish list too.

Koya

A strong topline, balanced angulation, long well shaped rib cage with good depth, sound movement and strong bones. I have bred both tall and small dogs, so I have a mixed size in my lines and my litters. I think smallest dog weighs 29 kg and biggest at least 55 kg. So I have something for everyone! What I love the most about breeding, except for all the

Tiya

I try to keep my not so little anymore Kadamo family together by arranging different kinds of activities.

Gaya

We for example have a competition in blood tracking every year, we go on hikes in different parts of the country, we have dog classes and lectures, show training and dog shows. Seeing how much joy all the buyers get from their dogs, and the friendships that are made between people and between dogs makes all the hard work and the bad or sad day worth it all in the end. To end this article, I need to pick out a few of my breedings to brag about and not mention only the dogs I own above. Dogs from my breeding are active in obedience, rally obedience, nose work, blood tracking, search, agility and more. They have great owners who spend so much time training them to what they are today. Here are a few of them:

Haley

Hailey

SEUCH SEVCH Kadamo Don’t Mess with Texas “Charlie” and sister SEUCH SEVCH Kadamo Too Hot to Handle “Gaya” was born in my America-litter (SEUCH SEVCH Hamnuddens Fendi x SEVCH SEUCH Zaxxon’s Prince Bosco) and was my first two breedings to gain the Swedish show champion title. More than half of the litter also became blood tracking champions. SEVCH RLDN RLDN RLDA Kadamo Penny Lane “Meya” from my Beatles-litter (CIB NORDUCH EECH SEVCH NVCH LP1 RLDN RLDF SEVW-14 DKVW16 NORDVW-16 Hamnuddens Fischer “Moa” x CIB NORDUCH BALTCH SEVCH NVCH RLDN SW-10 HEW-11 Roseridge Red Rastaban “Wilson”). Not only has she completed three titles in rally obedience and her blood tracking champion title, but she is also working as a tracking dog for injured animals like deer and

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wonderful dogs I get to have in my life, is all the puppy buyers! Through the years I have gained so many wonderful friendships and gotten to know so many nice people.

wild boar. So, if someone for example hits a deer with their car they will call Meya’s owner Emma and they will come and track and find the injured animal. They have helped so many animals and faster end their suffering. Meya was born in a litter of seven where six gained the Swedish Blood tracking champion title. SEUCH FINCH SEVCH SEVV-19 Kadamo Thinking of Tilley “Tilly” from my Canada-litter (CIB NORDUCH EECH SEVCH NVCH RLDN RLDF LP1 SEW-10 NORDW-10 Tarujen Uyaya Kadamo “Yaya” x AMCH CACH Thornberry Akala “Akala”) has both gained her blood tracking champion title as well as show champion and veteran winner title. BISS-13 SEUCH NUCH DKCH DKW-16 NORDW-16 Kadamo Johnny Walker “Loke” from my Drinks-litter (CIB NORDUCH EECH SEVCH NVCH LP1 RLDN RLDF SEVW-14 DKVW-16 NORDVW-16 Hamnuddens Fischer “Moa” x AM GRAND CH CAN GRAND CH MBIS MBISS HPK Tropaco Troyan Argos of Coso, ROM, CGN, VDX, Am CGC, JC, RN, Reg. Therapy dog “Argos”). As a young boy of only 13 months Loke won the huge Swedish Ridgeback Speciality Show in 2013 with more than 100 dogs entered. After that he went on to win several champion titles in different countries. A big boy who moves like a god!

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SEUCH EECH DKUCH FINUCH SEJW-12 Kadamo Rob Roy “Dexter” are also from the Drinks-litter. He started his show career as a young junior by winning he Swedish Junior winner title in 2012. After that he went on to win show champion titles in different countries as well as blood tracking champion. He is the sire of three litters, two in Sweden, (one here at Kadamo, the Nissan-litter in 2021) and one in Germany. Mira’s brother CIB HUCH CZCH KCHRR CH Kadamo It’s Now or Never “Elvis” from my Elvis-litter (CIB NORDUCH EECH SEVCH NVCH LP1 RLDN RLDF SEVW-14 DKVW-16 NORDVW-16 Hamnuddens Fischer “Moa” x AUCH Lionsbane Hes the Boss “Kimba”). Elvis was exported to Czech where he has done well in the showring but known most-

ly as a great studdog. Elvis has sired several litters around the world and produced a lot of stunning and successful dogs. But to be mentioned by name are his two sons who have both won the World Winner title! In 2017 it was won by WW-17 MultiCH MultiWinner Got the Soul by Luanda “Cubi” and 2021 by MultiCH MultiWinner WW-21 Lobengula Mwai Imara “Rufa”. In 2018 Elvis daughter Glen Rhodes Bololo’s Lozi was also Vice World Winner. Koya’s brother SEVCH RLDN RLDF RLDA NW1 Kadamo Digging for Gold “Boba” from the Gold-litter (SEVCH Kadamo Fire in the Sky “Kayla” x SEUCH DKUCH SEVCH Mankoya’s Incredible Idde by Gambo “Idde”). A great working dog who with guidance from his owner Freda not only has gained three rally obedience titles and become Swedish blood tracking champion, but is also the first Kadamo dog to receive a diploma in Nose work. SEUCH FINCH NOJW-16 Kadamo I Am High Quality “Clinton” from the High-litter (CIB SEUCH NUCH FIUCH DKUCH EECH SEVCH LP1 RLDN RLDF Kadamo Bringin’ It Back “Mira” x SEUCH

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DKUCH SEVCH Mankoya’s Incredible Idde by Gambo “Idde”). A handsome boy that has done well in the showring winning titles from different countries as well as a junior winner title. He has proven to be a good stud dog with three litters so far in Sweden, the Netherlands and Norway. Kadamo I Am Bagheera “Heera” is from my Jungle book-litter (SEVCH Kadamo Give Me a High Five x NUCH Ulwazi’s Adjua Khan by Edelrood “Khan”). She does not have any titles yet but they will come. She is an excellent working dog training in different dog sports like obedience, search and tracking. She is guided excellently by her owner Mina and they are showing how well a Ridgeback can do as an obedience/working dog if trained right. Heera is also the dam of my latest litter, the Nissan-litter.

INFO Name Karin Wolgast Fürst Country Sweden Affix Kennel Kadamo www / email www.kadamo.se

Photo by Cristina Belletti

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KIZAZI AJABU BREEDER

FROM ITALY WITH LOVE

89 RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

Mine is the story of a passion born by chance 20 years ago when, after the loss of my beloved Dalmatian, EGO Orpheuz, I am literally dragged by three of my dearest friends to see a litter of a “particular” African dog ...

Above all, one puppy strikes me: a male with a cheeky expression, initially suspicious, but who doesn’t take long to win me over. It was early May 2001, my great adventure with “Ajabu” began, which took me around Italy and then to Europe, giving me great satisfaction, not only in the exhibition field.

Photo by Alessandro Giannini

I state that I have always been madly in love with Africa, thanks to the long holidays I spent at a young age, with my maternal uncles who for more than 17 years lived in Nigeria (Kano, Kaduna and Lagos) first and then in Zambia (Lusaka). Therefore, I could imagine everything, except finding myself in front of that unexpected litter with a singular “ridge” on the back.

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Yaima Delle Cime Bianche

Yaima Beside Mon Mbeke and Her Half Sister Yoyoma Delle Cime Bianche

Photo by Sophie Bruneteau

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Elangeni The Places Youll Go Aka Romae with me

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Initially it was not “a walk in the park”; first a single subject, then the couple, the litters, two imported stud dogs and my ridged dogs have now become 6! So, after a few years, I changed my life and escaped from the city centre! In the countryside, the dogs life has definitely changed. More space, optimization in the management of litters, projects and investments but above all freedom in all senses.

Yoyoma Delle Cime Bianche

Photo by Monika Pehr

This is how, to my great joy, Farashuu delle cime bianche arrives, and after her daughter Mbeke delle cime bianche and her granddaughters Yoyoma delle cime bianche and Yaima delle cime bianche. In 2015 I started to breed in my name, but only in 2019 I feel ready to face challenges and responsibilities with my affix, Kizazi Ajabu RR, a name that has a particular meaning as AJABU in Swahili means “wonderful” and KIZAZI “descendants or progeny” from which a double interpretation: THE DESCENDANTS of Ajabu or the wonderful PROGENY.

Photo by Monika Pehr

From Ajabu onwards, there have been many experiences between championships and new friends, over the course of 14 years, during which I studied, listened, stolen with my eyes and ears, following the teachings of Mrs. Giovanna Bacchini Carr, that with the affix “delle Cime bianche” historically was among the first admirers and breeder of Rhodesian Ridgeback, in Italy.

Yoyoma Delle Cime Bianche with mother

And at this point a family of excellent breeders Daryl, Linda and Emma Friedland (Elangeni Rhodesian Ridgebacks Australia’s History Making Kennel) enters my story who, although on the other side of the world, today are my best supporters and in particular Linda, a ‘priceless’ friend. I will never stop thanking them for placing their trust in me, entrusting me with two wonders: ELANGENI THE PLACES YOU’LL GO aka Romae and ELANGENI WORLD ON FIRE aka Romeo. To this day, I divide my time between radio (my other passion as well as profession) and breedElangeni World On Fire, Elangeni The Places Youll Go, Yaima Delle Cime Bianche, Béké Wa Goliat Kizazi Ajabu and friends

Photo by Alessandro Giannini

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

Photo by Sophie Bruneteau

ing, proposing myself to be a responsible breeder: I produce one / two litters a year, giving great care and attention to the character selection of the subjects, as well as to the bloodlines in order to preserve their health, characteristics and natural attitudes. Genetics is a real challenge with nature. Often, we talk about percentages or “possibilities” even if for some specific cases, such as for simple Mendelian characters, it is possible to make exact statements, without the possibility of error. One misstep can always question everything, but positive thinking helps! When asked what kind of dog the Rhodesian Ridgeback is, I reply: “put together a dog, a horse and a big wild cat!” It is an image that very realistically photographs this powerful but not excessive breed, devoted but not submissive, energetic but at the same time indolent, versatile, sensitive, loyal, human; all enviable qualities, worthy of being safeguarded and respected and which can only be appreciated by living alongside a RR. A Ridge-

back is proud, brash, intelligent, physical but also incredibly cuddly and I admit that in rural living conditions, its management is very simple, while in urban living conditions, it is a decidedly very demanding dog. For a puppy the imprinting period is very important, the subsequent socialization and in any case the guidance of its “leader” is fundamental, because a RR can prove to be a joy forever but also a terrible mistake! If today someone asks me which breed I would like to breed, according to my experience I would answer without a doubt always and again RR ... only a stray dog would open other doors of my heart!

Elangeni World On Fire aka Romeo

Photo by Michael Bossard

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I unconditionally love my “ridged”, those of yesterday (Ajabu, Farashuu, Mzuri & Mbeke), those of today (Yoyoma, Yaima, Aza, Béké, Romae & Romeo) and those to come, each with their own fantastic story.

Elangeni The Places Youll Go Aka Romae with me

Photo by Cristina Belletti

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

Photo by Cristina Belletti

Aza ni Ajabu

Farashuu Delle Cime Bianche

Ajabu & Farashuu Delle Cime Bianche

INFO Name Elisabetta Grande Country Italy Affix Kizazi Ajabu www / email rhodesianridgebackajabu.eu

Béké wa Goliat Kizazi Ajabu

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WRITTEN BY MARGRIET LUIJK

LURE COURSING BY THE RRCN

Organized by the RRCN only 6 times a year on different coursing tracks in different places.

First of all, it is pure fun! Most dogs love to do it and if not we try to get them interested by let them play with the lure or let them run a short part of the track (criss cross, so it’s more fun and challenge).

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PHOTO BY EDWARD VELDKAMP, JOS SMEETS FOTOTGRAFIE.HE-TU.NL

Before and after the lure-coursing we do the warming up and cooling down to prevent injuries. We have different categories in age, every age runs a different part: • Dogs 2 - 5 months will playfully complete a small course. • Dogs 5 - 12 months will complete a straight course on what we call ‘the long side’. • Dogs 12 - 15 months / veterans will run 3/4 of the course. • Dogs 8 years and older (veterans) will run 3/4 of the course (if they are in good shape and healthy) • Dogs between 15 months and 8 years of age will run a full course. The winner of each age gets a bag of food and eternal fame ;-) Like I said IT’S ALL ABOUT THE FUN!

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My boys Amar & Jira sure love it!!

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SAFE DOG-CHILD COMMUNICATION

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WORK

Written by Sylwia Kołodziejczak Sirius –Canis Maior FCI

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ur story begins long time before we brought home our first Rhodesian Ridgeback girl - Shana. My husband convinced me and I agreed to have a new family member without any hesitation but there was only one condition: it was supposed to be a dog to work with and that will actively participate in sport competitions. Dog shows were not so important and it has not changed till now. Our dogs were always seen as our friends. Before we bought Shana, we had been looking for a kennel for over one year. Eventually we found an available girl (Father of the litter was Excalibur Anunnaki - a dog working in the Czech Republic in Kynotherapy). This is how Shana has appeared in our life. First two years were very hard but we achieved what we had planned and even a bit more. When Shana was 3 years old we took part in the “Safe Communication between a dog and a child” classes for the first time and afterwards we knew that this is something we want to do from now on. Since then, we have been conducting classes for preschool children (3-5 years old) on Safe dog-child communication. Now Shana is 8 years old, so the baton is taken over by Adara Sirius - Canis Maior - her daughter. Adara was born in our kennel and made us realize how much influence the early socialization of puppies has on their adult life. At the age of 6 months, Adara knew more commands and carried them out with firmer commitment than her mother had. Working with a dog that wants to learn is pure

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pleasure. In breeding, we put strong importance on the early puppies’ socialization because we had known that more than a half of them would go to families with children. The greatest satisfaction for us is always when a child who had no contact with dogs before and was afraid of them, at the end of the classes approaches us and courageously wants to stroke Shana or Adara. Our classes in kindergartens show children how to communicate with dogs and how to read their body language. At the beginning we tell children a story about Rhodesian Ridgeback breed, what is this special ridge they have and what a lion hunt looks like. We ask who of the children have dogs, what breeds they are from and what their relationships are. In general children know dog’s body language, but unfortunately only few know how to say ‘hello’ to the dog in a safe way. We teach them that the first

step should be asking an owner ‘Could I touch your dog?” and wait. We tell the group that they can’t scream, run and reach their hands over the dog’s head. We tell them not to approach dogs they don’t know because they could be aggressive but approach the dog calmly, crouch and let themselves be sniffed. When the dog accepts us, we can stroke him around the ear, side of the head, chest (do not pet the dog on the head from above, or pat it!). We also teach what the body language of dogs looks like and to show how much information a dog can show us with its body.

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The next step is to show the children a safe position that is to secure them in case of an attack by an aggressive dog. These are standing and crouching positions that cover the head and neck using hands. Children are very eager with practical exercises and they always wait for me to walk past them with my dog and then look at the dog with a smile. At the end, we also present skills of our Rhodesians by showing tricks and obedience. Volunteers may also practice the exercises and test dogs’ skills. We teach children to train with their pets, how to use rewards system and not to punish dogs for the lack of results. We encourage children to give a treat and then the dog gives them a paw. The smile and joy of the children from the meeting is always a priceless feeling. Below you can find a link to a short video of one of our classes (Polish, no subtitles): https://www.youtube.com/ watch? v=Hnj_f 5beuAw& ab_ channel=Sirius-CanisMaiorRhodesianRidgebackKennelFCI. Classes with children are not only a pleasure for our dogs, but also work. Adara can easily withstand 2 or 3 groups, but Freya (our Cairn Terrier), who is just starting her adventure with children, is fed up after 30 minutes and prefers to lie and rest. The classes also allow us to keep our dogs open to strangers and to being self-confident They learn to trust and control in foreign

places. Participation in Rally Obedience, Coursing, tracking or nose work competitions prepares our dogs to any conditions and makes us much easier to conduct classes in different places. Thanks to the classes, our dogs welcome new human members of our family with openness, and we are certain now that we want to continue what we had started with Shana.

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PH OENIX

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OUR OLDIES

F R A N

C O O L E

PHOENIX 14 YEAR OLD

Our dear 14 year old Phoenix was born on September 20, 2007. There were eight puppies in the litter, out of our Rowan, DC Manzanita’s Double Espresso, SC.

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It was an early adventure, when the puppies were 4 weeks old, we had to evacuate our home due to a wildfire. We gathered the puppies along with a few supplies, our 6 adult Ridgebacks, and raced down the road in heavy winds and threatening flames. We spent nearly a week in a modest sized hotel room., My husband Art, myself, 6 adult Ridgebacks, and a litter of month old pups! To this day, Phoenix retreats from smoke of any cause. Her little self knew it meant danger. Her registered name is Manzanita’s Rise From the Ashes, in honor of the event. Phoenix prefers to stay at home with the other dogs. An occasional car ride, trip to beach, or patio lunch is enjoyed. We have a large country property, with a dog door, so the dogs have plenty of room to run around. Phoenix is our eldest now, of 6 ridgebacks. She still goes down the slope and runs a bit with the others, barking at them to behave. Yet, it is clear she is slowing down, and she sleeps more these days. Phoenix has always been healthy and an easy keeper. She has her many lumps and bumps now, but at this advanced age, we choose to leave her be. Her senior bloodwork taken last week shows no sign of problems with her health. So, we enter another year, perhaps her last, knowing she has lived a very good life.

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Photo by Tanja Plusczok

BANGA

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OUR OLDY

N I C O L E

F R I T Z

Photo s by Yvo nne Fr i t z

BANGA

Hi, my name is Zubayda Banga Butemwe, but you are welcome to call me Banga. Born on 04.07.2009 in Czech Republic and emigrated to Germany near Baden Baden at the age of 8 weeks. I live here on the edge of the Black Forest directly on the Rhine, where you can run and cycle super great. When I was 4 years old, I got cancer. As a result, I was operated on several times and received chemotherapy. I survived everything well and was soon able to lead my pack healthy again. For some time now, however, mybuttocks don’t want to want the way I would like them to, especially if I want to play with my roommates Takara and Cooper.

Photo by Tanja Plusczok

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Photo by Tanja Plusczok

OLDY

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M O M E N T S W O R K O U T M Y

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Playfully and with joy, we develop meaningful exercises, promote the sense of balance, optimize muscle coordination and counteract age-related muscle loss. Movement in the water relaxes and relieves my entire musculoskeletal system. Here in the dog inn baden I finally have the opportunity for an unclouded water fun, especially about the soothing relief of the joints in the water, so that Ican movesmoothly again afterwards. With my osteoarthritis, swimming or treading water is a very good exercise and at the same time associated with fun. I use it to train my muscles and my body feeling. Joint mobility and coordination are also trained. When I walk treading water, I train a normal and healthy movement sequence with joint relief. Due to the water resistance, the effort is significantly higher and the muscles are trained more than when running on land,but pisoscillative that the body weight of me decreases. Not thatI’m too fat - just like that. And it is also a great exercise for the cardiovascular system, says Anja. What you have to keep in mind is that the movements are much more strenuous than you think and they should therefore be built up slowly, especially with us seniors. So I can only say that after such an hour I am really tired and have to rest a little. Like humans, we dogs are not equally efficient every day and this should be considered especially with us seniors. I don’t like really cold water, then the muscles contract and I’m tense, but that can’t happen with Anja, here the water in the pool is heated. My two roommates find water creepy and therefore don’t have to go in. Some dogs just don’t like it or panic when they no longer feel ground under their paws. Then wading through the water is the better choice.

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That’s why I go 2 times a week to the senior sports and to the physio in the dog inn baden, here I train with Anja Bulle and her team.

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Uncontrolled jumps into the water are not allowed in our training, just as it is not allowed in the people’s swimming pool. By the way, eating is taboo at least 2 hours before swimming. Just like any other sporting activity. Not only that it does not train well with a full stomach. It can even be dangerous to health – but treats during training always go. We here in the dog inn at senior sports usually have a life jacket or a harness on, because safe is safe. Ok, with me a harness is enough - only for the emergency, if I get tired earlier, but has never happened. If we seniors are not well, then we also take a break and the water training takes place again when we have “good days”. No matter how old we are and even if we already have certain movement restrictions or just tip over when the hind legs are very tired – one thing is still very important: movement, movement, movement – adapted to our current state. Since you can not only swim with Anja, but she is also a great dog physiotherapist and I like her so much, I still do an hour of sports in the hall. As you can see in the pictures, my balance and the coordination of my legs and also very important my head is trained here - ok by the many treats also my waist circumference, but as every Ridgeback knows - you can never have enough of treats.

And on days when I’m not in such a good mood, yes, I also have them, we do a Repuls-Vet cold light therapy and manual therapy with massage. I always have to be careful not to fall asleep - that’s how good it is. Massage is a form of therapy that many dogs find particularly pleasant and beneficial. Through the intense touches I gain a better body feeling and experience a complete physical as well as mental relaxation. In addition, the massage can detect existing irregularities, stimulate blood circulation and sustainably relieve pain. So you see, I’m never too old to be able to do anything else – getting old without being old is my motto and in this sense still a nice lifetime! Your Banga

More info www.dog-inn-baden.de www.kipanga.de

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Written by Team Rescue

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK

RESCUE FRANCE Because we have seen RRs arrive in shelters, and faced with the increasing number of births in France, we are a small group of enthusiasts who have decided to create an association to take care of RRs whose families can no longer look after their Ridgebacks for any reason. We are either owners of RR or simply in love with the breed and a few of us are breeders. Our association makes no judgment on the reasons that force a family to part with their RR. We just want to help them and find them a 5-Star basket. We take care of the dog directly at his home to take him to his new family. Sometimes a dog might stay temporarily with host families in order to allow us to evaluate it, sometimes to allow them to regain a taste for life, so that they can then adapt as quickly as possible to the new family. We support the necessary veterinary costs before the placement of the dog (vaccinations, care). The host families provide shelter for our protégés free of charge, the association supports the food cost during this period. Finding the best family is sometimes difficult because some ask us for the wrong reasons, while sometimes we have to get involved in a real rescue that requires time and perseverance. We obviously regularly follow up on our protégés and we are happy to hear from them often. Since the creation of our association in June 2020, we have taken care of 11 dogs aged from 8 months to 6 years and traveled for them thousands of kms throughout France. Memberships and donations to our association help to finance our actions and our expenses. (Veterinarian, educators, transport). You can help us with your memberships and donations. Our website: www.rhodesian-ridgeback-rescue-france.com Our FB page: www.facebook.com/RidgebackRescueFrance

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(Anne, Martine, Sylvia and the others)

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WRITTEN BY ANA JURIČ WWW.BIO-BARF.CH, BIO BARF DI ANA JURIĆ

BAR(R)F

WEEKLY TABLE YUKI AND DHARU my personal experience

DEAR FRIENDS, I would like to share my personal experience with you in this article and explain the basics of what the BARF diet means.

THE BEGINNING OF AN ADVENTURE It all started about 11 years ago, when I decided that a Rhodesian Ridgeback should come into my life. For me it was a whole new world, I looked for a good breeder, the search lasted months, and then finally he arrived ... he whom no one wanted because of his defect in the tail (kink tail), but for me it was immediately love at first sight... that little puppy with bright eyes and the tail like a comma! On 6 June 2011 our adventure began, everything was perfect except for the fact that the puppy was not eating. Given my little experience, I immediately consulted the breeder and several vets in the area and the answer was always the same, that the dog had to eat kibble, because it is the most complete and nutritious food for them. At that point my ordeal with his food began. Yuki didn’t want to know how to eat croquettes and, during 18 months, I changed to at least 15 different types of dog food, both with smaller and larger pieces; chicken, lamb or beef; those for puppies or adults. I tried to make them more appetising with various extras, but nothing worked. Yuki would struggle just to eat a couple and the rest would be thrown away.

Needless to say, Yuki was visibly underweight, not to mention with dirty ears and fur, exhaustion and a disproportionate amount of faeces for what he was eating, until I said ENOUGH! I started reading up on it and looking for vets with a more “holistic” and “natural” vision; I looked for those who had a view more similar to mine, which was different from the classic “the dog is a dog and must eat kibbles”. And finally, a new world opened up to me.

THE BASIS OF EVERYTHING DOGS are carnivores and, like their wolf ancestors, get their nutritional needs mainly from animal food. And here we start talking about BARF. The acronym BARF is translated in different ways, but in the end they all mean the same thing. Some translate it as ‘BONES AND RAW FOOD’ or ‘BIOLOGICALY APPROPRIATE RAW FOOD’, from which we understand the principle of a raw diet. BARF is a choice that goes to the ethological and evolutionary aspect of dogs and cats and respect for their biological and behavioural characteristics, and we know that health starts with what we eat. In nature, a dog, as a good carnivore, would eat whole prey. But given that in our society this is not possible (we cannot send our dogs out into the woods and farms to forage for food on their own) we must recreate this prey in all its components. To understand that we are dealing with a carni-

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PHOTO BY VALENTINA BUCKSCH , FOOD PHOTO BY ANA JURIČ

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vore, we need only to look at its physical conformity, such as strong canines for grasping prey and molars with very sharp cusps for shearing and biting through bones and flesh, very thick saliva which is used to lubricate large mouthfuls which then go into a very large stomach with very acidic gastric juices to digest bones, skin and hair. And finally, a short intestinal tract that can digest meat and bones completely in a maximum of 24 hours. Returning again to the wolf, it is said in various blogs and among various “Barfists” that the dog should eat exactly like the wolf, i.e., at most once a day and not even every day, but I disagree here. Although they are constitutionally almost identical, the dog has a completely different lifestyle to the wolf.

Let’s come back to me for a moment... When I said I had discovered a world, I was so fascinated by it that I decided that this would be my path and that, just as it had helped me and my dog, I would be able to help many other owners and their dogs as well. I also decided that this philosophy absolutely had to be a source of inspiration for others. So, I started to study, learn and become fully involved in this world, taking courses, working alongside vets, nutritionists and people who, like me, believed that true medicine comes from nature. And here I am today... for the past 6 years I have been helping many dogs and cats to finally get well, and with them their owners. The benefits of this type of diet are many, and I will mention a few:

So, in my opinion, you must adapt the diet to the individual and not fall into extremism.

• • • • • •

MY PATH

•

The dog lives indoors, doesn’t suffer from the cold, doesn’t have to travel long distances for food and doesn’t have to expend so much energy for food.

No unpleasant dog smells No tartar A strong immune system Reduced amount of excrement Better musculature More gradual growth and therefore fewer joint problems Mitigation of arthritic diseases

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Today Yuki is almost 11 years old, still has strong muscles, no arthritis, no medical conditions and is a healthy and energetic dog... is it just luck? When I decided to get my second Ridgeback, the main priority was his health and his nutrition. I chose a kennel that weaned the puppies to BARF with knowledge and experience, and never has a better choice been made. Over the years I have seen huge differences compared to dogs eating industrial food. Let me give you an example that today makes me smile. When he was in the Youth and Junior classes the difference with the other competitors was exorbitant, they told me that my dog was small, when he was simply a dog with a regular growth and not like the others that at 6-8 months already looked like an adult dog. Now he is a healthy and strong dog, one with a well-developed musculature (in addition to nutrition there is also a factor of daily and constant exercise), a healthy and shiny coat, white teeth and always with an alert and energetic look. I have a dog that never sees the vet because he is in full physical and mental health. But let’s see what he eats in detail. • • • • • • • •

Drastically reduced risk of stomach torsion Beautiful, healthy and shiny coat More energy Joy in eating Resolution of behavioural problems Fewer allergy and intolerance problems Fewer gastric problems Fewer skin problems

I have seen severely underweight dogs become perfectly fit in a short time, and vice versa for obese dogs. I have seen dermatitis as well as otitis disappear in a matter of days, and dogs with constant diarrhoea, return to healthy bowel movements. I have seen dogs with limping problems due to arthritic conditions improve surprisingly well. I have seen dogs finally rejoice when mealtime arrived, because first of all there was love in preparing the bowl, secondly every day was a surprise, a new taste and thirdly it was finally a healthy diet that made them feel good. Like them, my Yuki finally started to eat naturally and he was reborn. He ate with taste, digested everything and had

I think that the most sensational thing about this diet is that there is no one-size-fits-all plan, no price list, like on kibble where it says if you weigh so-and-so then you have to eat so-and-so. BARF follows each dog’s personal needs, tastes and requirements. There are dogs that have to eat higher percentages, others lower, dogs that do not tolerate bones or which do not like offal or vegetables. This is where the owner’s attention will be of fundamental importance, he is the one who lives with the dog, he is the one who knows him best, and it is he who will have to notice all these details. Personally, when a new client arrives, after having explained to him what this type of diet consists of, I tell him that the first month will be an introduction month, where we will meet weekly to check the situation and find out what works and what doesn’t for his dog. This month may run to two, depending on the animal, only then will it be possible for me to create a healthy and balanced diet for their dog (or cat). The aim will be to have as varied a diet as possible, the more you vary the more you expand the

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much more energy; the amount of faeces was minimal (once a day) in a short time he put on muscle mass and changed his physical structure putting on a “healthy” weight, his coat was shiny and bright, ears and teeth became clean after only a few weeks.

range of nutrients required by your pet.

a bit like us eating a piece of chocolate. Another VERY IMPORTANT aspect: Bones should always be given raw and never cooked!

BARF IN DETAIL For a healthy adult, BARF consists of 75-80% meat and 25-20% fruit and vegetables.

As for fruit and vegetables:

Some people also use cereals, but personally I am not a fan of cereals, which in any case never exceed 5% when added.

Vegetables should be a little blanched or steamed to make them more digestible, but again this is subjective.

The meat portion will consist of:

I personally like to add some raw, grated vegetables to the bowl during the summer, when there are more seasonal fruits and vegetables. In winter I always add them cooked.

• Muscle: minced or in pieces and must constitute at least 50% of the daily requirement. It is the most digestible part and should also consist of a percentage of fat, which is a primary source of energy. It is preferable to vary the types of meat (at least two or three) to allow the intake of all types of vitamins, minerals and trace elements. • Offal should be 10-15% of the daily intake. They are a rich source of vitamins, such as vitamin A. The offal includes the liver, heart, kidneys, lung and spleen. Many dogs struggle with offal, both because of its taste and because in some cases it can cause diarrhoea.

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• Tripe and omasum: should make up 15-20% of the daily intake. It provides an excellent supply of “good bacteria”, a good supply of calcium and phosphorus, vitamins and trace elements. It should always be given “dirty”, i.e., the herbivore’s stomach containing what it has eaten. • Meat bones: 10-30% of the daily dose. Meat bones are defined as bones with meat attached. It is important that there is meat attached to help digestion and the bones should never be too many (danger of constipation) or too hard (load-bearing bones). Bones are a great source of calcium and will help your dog to have healthy teeth and gums. It will also be a way of relaxing your dog, as chewing releases endorphins...

I always recommend using seasonal fruit and vegetables as much as possible and to vary them. Mostly green leafy vegetables should be used. Fruit should be used in smaller quantities as it contains sugar. I am often asked which vegetables you can give your dog, but personally I think it is easier to say which ones you should not give him: •

Avocado

•

Legumes

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Onions

•

Aubergines

•

Raw potatoes

•

Peas and beans

Vegetables and fruit are a very important part of the diet, as they are rich in fibres, vitamins, minerals and enzymes. So, returning to the fact that it is the diet that the animal follows, I will give you as an example my dogs. Although I have two dogs of the same breed and sex, they eat different amounts: Dharu, 5.5 years old, an entire male who is very active, eats 1.1 kg of meat and about 250 g of vegetables and fruit daily. Yuki 10.5 years old, castrated male, is moderately active and eats 750g of meat and 200g of vegetables daily. During the week, both have one day where they eat fish as a source of protein. Usually, I balance this with two types of fish, one fattier (such as salmon) and the other leaner (such as cod). One day a week is dedicated to fasting. As they are active dogs I do not fast my dogs completely, but they eat vegetable type foods, carbohydrates and dairy products. I will give you an example of a fasting day: Morning:

tial (but not for puppies and growing dogs) to purify, cleanse and lighten the intestines. As mentioned before, I am not a fan of carbohydrates, but combined in this way I think they are a good compromise Another important thing for me is the choice of meat and products. I have heard of many people bragging about their dogs eating BARF only to find out that they were buying poor quality meat only because it was cheaper. Well... in that case I suggest you forget it! Look for suppliers who guarantee you quality meat, which comes from animals that have been bred with respect and dedication, animals that have lived on pasture and eaten healthily. Even if it costs a few Euros more, remember that you are feeding your best friend. Bad meat can also cause a lot of problems, just like industrial animal food. Antibiotics given to a cow for years, flour and industrial waste will all end up in your dog’s stomach. For a couple of years now, I have managed to create a small range of meats, using butchery waste (which would normally be thrown away, because it is not nice to look at) in top quality meat. I have chosen butchers in the area who use animals from our pastures, which have had a healthy life and are raised with full respect for the animal.

•

250 g fresh cheese (cottage cheese, quark) or yogurt

As these animals are not raised in large quantities, the choice is limited, mainly cows, calves, chickens, sheep, goats and turkeys.

•

100/150 g of carbohydrates (buckwheat, quinoa, millet, amaranth)

•

200g vegetables and fruits

Besides meat, the choice of other foods and supplements should also be made with care.

Evening: •

2 eggs

•

Sweet potato

•

Green leafy vegetables

I personally believe that the fasting day is essen-

About supplements: I personally believe that there are 2 types of supplements that are essential in the diet: Firstly Omega 3’s (if they eat meat that contains fat, Omega 6’s will not be needed) and we find

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•

them for example: •

Fish oil (e.g., salmon oil or cod liver oil)

•

Hemp oil

•

Linseed oil

Secondly is coconut oil, which has a lot of benefits: •

Rich in fibre

•

Strengthens the immune system

•

Natural antiparasitic and antibacterial

•

Nourishes the skin and coat

•

Regulates metabolism

•

Great source of energy

•

Counteracts arthrosis

•

Excellent nutritional source for the brain

As far as other supplements are concerned, I am a firm believer that they should be taken as needed. Overuse of supplements can also lead to imbalances, so if we can have a healthy dog through its diet alone, there is no need to add supplements. There are supplements that can be added to the bowl on a regular basis that provide benefits without creating imbalances such as: •

Herbs (nettle, rose hip, alfalfa, mallow, parsley)

•

Algae (spirulina, brown seaweed, chlorella, kelp, lithothamnion)

WHY IS BARF THE IDEAL DIET FOR RHODESIAN RIDGEBACKS? As mentioned before, this type of diet is ideal for all carnivores, but let’s take a look at the case of the Rhodesian Ridgeback and why it is very important. •

The RR is a large dog, so it is important that it has steady growth so as not to create imbalances in the joints.

•

The RR is prone to dysplasia, and it has been researched that in addition to a genetic factor, the cause of dysplasia may be dietary.

•

The RR is subject to stomach twisting and as mentioned before with BARF the risk is drastically reduced.

•

The RR is often used for sporting disciplines, and as for all sporting dogs BARF is the most recommended diet as it gives a greater energy supply.

•

RR often have skin problems, and here too a natural diet helps to nourish skin and coat and limits the formation of tumours such as mastocytomas and lipomas.

QUESTIONS ABOUT BARF The thing that scares people the most when it comes to BARF is the cost and the time involved.

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As far as costs are concerned, I think you have to consider the overall case with all the costs involved with a dog. Feeding a dog (especially a medium to large sized dog) with good quality meat is certainly more expensive than feeding it with kibble, but if we look at the health factor, things change. In other words, since my dog eats BARF, how much do I save in vet bills? Therefore, the matter is reversed! And as far as spending time is concerned, believe me... it won’t take you much longer than pouring kibble into a bowl. Sure, you’ll have to get the hang of it at first, but then it will be as easy as pie. What I love the most is to prepare my dogs’ bowls. All it takes is a little knowledge, a little colour and lot of love! The time that you spend preparing their bowl will create an even greater bond with your dog. You will see how grateful he will be.

In conclusion, I recommend that you seek the advice of a good nutritionist or vet who can advise you on the best diet for your dog, so that it is well-balanced but always bearing in mind that there must also be quality and simplicity, because there is nothing complicated or transcendental in nature. In addition to a good diet, there should also be a good amount of outdoor physical activity, an activity that creates a good relationship with your dog (such as a sporting activity), respect, dedication and love.

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WRITTEN BY MAJDI KOSI PHOTO BY ARCHIVE NATURALLY HEALTHY DOG

id you know that a little spice could make a huge difference in your dog’s health and even his lifespan? The research shows it’s true - turmeric (the spice used in curries and mustards) has over 6,000 studies to its credit.

cumin has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal, wound healing and anticancer activities. It can help fight diseases like arthritis, diabetes, cancer, liver disease, gastrointestinal issues and more.

Turmeric has anti-inflammatory properties and health benefits that can completely change your dog’s outlook on life. With an active ingredient that targets multiple problems that a dog may suffer, and alleviating more of the symptoms with quick results, many owners call it pure gold! You may have heard of the benefits of turmeric for your dog. If you haven’t, then here are all the amazing benefits of this colorful spice: • It’s a powerful antioxidant • It’s a natural and effective anti-inflammatory • It can help prevent and even treat cancer • It protects the liver from toxins • It can help alleviate pain • reduce the effects of Alzheimer’s • clean their teeth, • get rid of allergies, and more!

“CURE-CUMIN” What makes a golden paste so popular is the many benefits it has and the various conditions, diseases, and part of the body it affects that result in dogs living a happier and healthier lifestyle. Turmeric contains a compound called curcumin – which is essentially its active ingredient. Cur-

TOP 5 WAYS TURMERIC CAN HELP YOUR DOG #1 Turmeric Is Anti-Inflammatory You may be thinking inflammation is only a problem for dogs with joint disease - but chronic, hidden inflammation is a silent killer. It’s the root of nearly all disease.

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TURMERIC GOLDEN PASTE FOR DOGS

#3 Turmeric Can Relieve Arthritis Pain We know that arthritis is the result of inflammation and turmeric can decrease inflammation in the body. Turmeric can also relieve the pain and stiffness in arthritis, better than conventional conventional pain medications.

#4 Turmeric Can Treat Gastrointestinal Disorders Turmeric’s anti-inflammatory effects can be helpful in treating Inflammatory Bowel Disease as well as other gastrointestinal disorders. It’s been shown in several preclinical studies and uncontrolled clinical trials as having positive effects on gut inflammation and gut permeability.

#5 Turmeric Can Replace Steroids

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Many dogs are on steroids for allergies and joint pain – but some studies show curcumin is just as effective as steroids. The authors note: “The lack of side effects with curcumin is its greatest advantage compared with corticosteroids.” And that’s the main benefit of turmeric, not only can it work just as well as many prescription and overthe-counter drugs, it doesn’t carry unwanted side effects. Cancer, arthritis, allergies, kidney disease, dental disease, digestive disease; are all caused by inflammation. Not all inflammation in the body is a bad thing. If your dog is exposed to viruses or bacteria, acute inflammation will release white blood cells to the body tissues and start the healing process. But chronic inflammation, the kind of low-grade inflammation that stays for weeks, months and even years - is the true cause of most degenerative and inflammatory health issues in your dog. Inflammation is the key driver of most diseases in the body. And turmeric is one of the best natural anti-inflammatories either nature or medicine has to offer.

#2 Turmeric For Dogs With Cancer So we know that chronic inflammation can lead to cancer and we know turmeric is a powerful antioxidant.

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Nearly 1/3 of the studies done on turmeric are cancer research and the results are very promising. Turmeric has been shown to kill cancer cells and prevent more from growing. Half of adult dogs today will get cancer, so turmeric could be a great way to protect your dog from cancer and the inflammation that causes it.

Turmeric is a powerful antioxidant! So there are a whole lot of reasons to start giving your dog turmeric. But we haven’t mentioned the best one yet. Turmeric is a powerful antioxidant and antioxidants can slow down aging, degeneration and even increase lifespan.

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Potential turmeric side effects Turmeric can interact with some medications, including anti-inflammatory and diabetes drugs. And it may interfere with some chemotherapy treatments. So if your dog is on any medications, check with your holistic vet before adding turmeric to his diet.

DIY: MAKE TURMERIC GOLDEN PASTE BY YOURSELF If you’re ready to give your dog turmeric, there are a few things you need to know. The curcumin in turmeric is hard for your dog to absorb if it’s given by itself. So it’s important to combine turmeric with a healthy oil like cold pressed coconut oil. This can increase the absorption significantly. But you can`t give turmeric by itself and expect good results. Here’s a simple recipe you can make that will bring out the medicinal properties of turmeric: Ingredients • 1/2 cup organic turmeric powder • 1 to 1 1/2 cups filtered or spring water • 1 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper • 1/4 cup organic cold pressed coconut oil Directions 1. Mix the turmeric with 1 cup of water in a pan. Save the remaining water in case you need it to thin your paste a bit. 2. Stir the liquid on low/medium heat for about 7 to 10 minutes. It should form a thick paste in this time. 3. If the paste gets too thick, add a little more water. 4. If the paste looks watery, add a little more turmeric and heat it for another couple of minutes. 5. Once your paste has thickened, add the pepper and oil and stir thoroughly. 6. Allow the mixture to cool. 7. Place it in a jar with a lid and store in the fridge. It’ll keep for up to 2 weeks. How much turmeric for your dog? You can add the Golden Paste directly to your dog’s meals. Most dogs don’t mind the taste at all! Here’s how much turmeric golden paste to give your dog: • Small dogs should start with about 1/4 teaspoon per day • Medium dogs can start with 1/2 teaspoon per day • Large dogs can start with 3/4 teaspoon per day • Giant dogs can start with 1 teaspoon per day

THE NATURALLY HEALTHY DOG TEAM AND “THE GOLDEN FORMULA” The concept of a Naturally Healthy Dog was conceived about a decade ago. The central guide has been to offer dog owners quality information about a healthy lifestyle of dogs - through educational events as well as through quality products that help maintain dog health in a natural way. A number of years of monitoring of experience and feedback from dog owners regarding the use of natural dietary supplements developed by veterinarians, homeopates, animal nutritionists and dietetics, and in particular the experience and health and nutritional challenges with dogs have encouraged the NHDog team to create its own products – Golden Coconut is one of them. It reminds many pet owners of the turmeric golden paste, but there is one significant distinction – it contains ginger instead of pepper and it lasts longer because of the ingredients` mix. Golden Coconut is a 100% NATURAL COMPLEMENTARY FEED FOR DOGS AND CATS containing first-class ingredients: Coconut oil is a natural antioxidant, affecting the natural condition of the skin, moisturizes the skin, soothes the itch and eliminates dandruff.

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This is a rough starting point, but you can increase the amount from there. But you’ll want to give turmeric in smaller amounts a few times a day because curcumin leaves the body quickly.

Flax-seed oil is extremely rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which are important for restoring the skin and improving the condition of the fur. Turmeric is known for use to relieve pain, mitigate stomach problems and stimulate liver function. Curcumin, an active ingredient of turmeric, is a potent antioxidant, while antioxidants neutralize free radicals that cause painful inflammation in the joints. Ginger is used in heart and gastrointestinal problems, bronchitis, inflammation (mainly in the case of inflammation of the joints), and in combination with turmeric, it takes care of its better absorption (like pepper).

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Coconut flour works soothing to digestion, along with coconut oil creates a strong flavor and smell of coconut - the reason why our dogs really adore its taste!

Healthy Dog at

• a remarkable effect supporting healthy bone and joints; • impact on better regeneration; • strengthens the immune system. There are many different opinions on the wide web that suggest the correct dosage of golden paste for your dog. The same goes with Golden Coconut. As a rule of thumb, it’s always best to start them off with a small dosage of ¼ teaspoon to see how they react and what their tolerance is. As golden paste leaves a dog’s system quickly, it’s best to add a ¼ teaspoon to every meal. If you find that they can tolerate the ¼ teaspoon but the dosage isn’t strong enough, then you can increase it to ½ teaspoons to the small dog and 1 teaspoon for the large adog. You can read more information about Natural

https://www.naturalhealthydog.com/en_US/ or contact them at webmail info@naravnozdravpes.si References:

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The Golden coconut has

100 Evidence Based Health Benefits of Turmeric Turmeric For Dogs: Surprising Health Benefits https://www.veterinarians.org/golden-paste/

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We have asked some of our favourite photographers some question in regards to their work, read their stories.

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S EE THROU G H CAMERA LE NS.....

We are thrilled to introduce to you three brilliant photographers, they all have one thing in common....they see your dogs through their camera lens.

A “S

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OUR GOLDIES

VALENTINA BUCKSCH AN INTERVIEW

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Switzerland І Moooving Arts - Swiss Made dog & adventure photography І www.mooovingarts.com

PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF. HOW DID YOU COME ABOUT BEING A DOG PHOTOGRAPHER AND HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN DOING IT? My name is Valentina, I was born on August 16, 1989 and since I was a child I have been passionate about dogs, mountains and photography. These great loves led me to have also two wonderful dogs: Maki and Zelda. Thanks to them I approached dog photography about 5 years ago. Then, I especially linked everything to the mountains, my favourite environment. But sometimes I also organize days of themed photo shoots, such as Christmas, spring, biscuit fly…

HOW DID YOU FIRST ENTER THE PHOTOGRAPHY WORLD? DID YOU HAVE FORMAL TRAINING? HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN A PHOTOGRAPHER? The world of photography has always been a part

of me. I have always liked to capture the moment. Ever since I used disposable kodaks. Growing up, I became more and more passionate about art in general, so I decided to attend an art school. There were also photography lessons there. Digital cameras weren’t much used yet, so I learned photography using film, in the wonderful world of the darkroom.

WHAT OR WHO GOT YOU STARTED PHOTOGRAPHING DOGS? I started photographing dogs when I got Maki, my first dog. I wanted to understand how to take beautiful photos of them, and browsing on Facebook and Instagram I discovered an artistic way dedicated entirely to them. Inspired by the photographers I liked best and doing some workshops with some of them, I refined my technique and found my way.

WHAT TYPE OF CAMERAS DO YOU SHOOT WITH? WHICH IS YOUR FAVOURITE LENS AND WHY?

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I don’t have a favourite lens; it depends a lot on where I photograph and how I want to “represent” the dog. For portraits I really like 50, if I’m in the mountains instead 15-30, especially because I love having small subjects in the big environment.

WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION? Inspiration can come from anything: a colour, a plant, a rock ... I don’t have a precise source, if I see a setting that I particularly like, I try to make it stand out in the best possible way, integrating the dog, of course!

DO YOU CONSIDER IT A CHALLENGING JOB? HOW DO YOU GET THE ANIMALS TO STAY AND “POSE” FOR YOU? It is a very demanding job. Especially since not all dogs are used to posing. Some are even afraid of the camera. My dogs are easy to convince them: just have food in hand and they do anything. Clearly, they have also been trained to do so.

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I have a Nikon Z6 with lenses: Nikkor Z 35mm f1.8, Nikkor Z 50mm f1.8, Nikkor VRII 70-200mm f2.8, Tamron G2 1530mm f2.8.

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WHAT IS THE BEST PART OF BEING A FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHER? AND THE MOST CHALLENGING? The best part of being a photographer is getting to know many new dogs, seeing how they are all completely different even in character, how some are more stubborn than others while there are really vain ones! hehehe The most difficult is to be able to put the dog you are photographing at ease to make it pose in the best way and to be able to capture its essence.

DESCRIBE A TYPICAL SESSION FOR US. WHAT KINDS OF THINGS ARE YOU THINKING ABOUT WHEN YOU’RE BEHIND THE CAMERA? When we arrive at the chosen place to take the photos, first of all we have the dog acclimatize. We

let him sniff, maybe pee. Then I start to take the camera in my hand and see how the dog reacts. If the dog needs more time to get used to the location, I start taking spontaneous “stolen” photos. Then slowly I begin to ask the owner to pose the dog. I try to understand in which pose it stands out better depending on the breed, I pay attention to the colour of the hair to choose the background.

WHICH BREED IN YOUR OPINION IS MOST PHOTOGENIC? The most photogenic breed for me is the border collie. In addition to being a beautiful dog, he is also very inclined to pose.

ARE THERE OTHER DOG PHOTOGRAPHERS THAT INSPIRE OR INFLUENCE YOU? IF NOT, WHO OR WHAT DOES?

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Absolutely yes. There are many photographers that I follow and I respect a lot! I try to be inspired by them (perhaps in the mood and colours) without absolutely copying!

IS THERE ANY ONE THING YOU WISH YOU HAD KNOWN OR PIECE OF ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO AN ASPIRING FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHER?

As in all things, you never stop learning!

DO YOU HAVE ANY PETS OF YOUR OWN? AND WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE ANIMAL? Yes, I have two dogs and a cat. My favourite animal is the seal, the “dog of the sea”.

KRISTINA MERTENS AN INTERVIEW

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Germany І Kristina Mertens Fotografie І Kristina Mertens Fotografie (fb)

PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF. HOW DID YOU COME ABOUT BEING A DOG PHOTOGRAPHER AND HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN DOING IT? At the age of 15, my love for photography started with the love for our dogs and the desire to capture the moments with them as authentic, natural and beautiful as possible, so that they can be remembered for eternity. With a rather unspectacular camera and various free apps on the phone, my first attempts in the direction of qualitative photography began. Soon I was gripped by the joy and kept striving to get better. After a short time I had opportunities to photograph dogs of friends and acquaintances.

HOW DID YOU FIRST ENTER THE PHOTOGRAPHY WORLD? DID YOU HAVE FORMAL TRAINING? HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN A PHOTOGRAPHER?

By now I’ve been shooting for 5 years and I’m still super euphoric at every shoot and excited to capture another new image that I can edit and show to the customers. In the beginning I had the opportunity to participate in a great and intensive workshop for a week. There I was taught the basics of using my camera and certain editing tools. Basically, I’m more the silent observer and look at tips and tricks from other photographers. I do not care if my work meets the expectations of professionals. If something convinces me visually, improves my workflow, or simply emotionally catches me, I often sit for hours at the computer and work on my images until they convince me completely and make the customer happy.

WHAT OR WHO GOT YOU STARTED PHOTOGRAPHING DOGS? I owe my entry into the world of photography to my wonderful parents. They gave me my first

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Having a good camera is great, but for me a good lens is much more important.

Also, their honest way of telling me whether a picture is beautiful or need improvin helps me to this day to develop further.

I found this in my beloved Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM.

As mentioned in the beginning, my passion started through our two dogs, Ennox and Gamba.

This lens is just great! It offers me high speed, fast focus, great bokeh, and it’s not too heavy so I can take it anywhere.

In the beginning I only wanted to have pictures of the two as a souvenir, but very soon I also started to photograph dogs of friends.

The EF 50mm f/1.8 from Canon is also very close to my heart. With this simple lens I have actually done whole shootings.

Furthermore, various online platforms ensured that I also got shooting requests from strangers.

With 130 grams it is hardly noticeable in the camera bag and I take it everywhere with me.

I am still happy about such messages and sometimes I can’t believe that people sit in their car for several hours so that I can take pictures of them and their loved ones.

WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION?

That is a great honor every time!

WHAT TYPE OF CAMERAS DO YOU SHOOT WITH? WHICH IS YOUR FAVOURITE LENS AND WHY? Canon cameras have been with me from the beginning. Every now and then I invest my savings in a newer camera. Today, my beloved Canon 5D Mark 3 accompanies me. Of course, there are better, faster, or simply much newer models on the market, but this camera offers me everything I need for shootings or in my everyday life.

In the very beginning mostly on Facebook. Through my passion for dogs, I have many friends and acquaintances who constantly upload pictures of their dogs. Inspired by this online platform, I also started to capture moments with our dogs in pictures. The more involved I got with photography, the more I saw places in everyday life where I really wanted to take pictures. Meanwhile, I can hardly walk through the forest without even taking one photo, or imagine how beautiful here and there a photo with dogs, people, horses,... would be. Also the direct exchange with other people helps me to develop further. For example, talking with other passionate photographers about camera settings or workflows in Photoshop.

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camera and supported me wholeheartedly on my way.

People and animals in front of my camera, on the other hand, usually give me unexpected input for creative ideas.

The best part of photography is the moment during the shoot when I realize that a really great picture has just been taken.

That’s what I love most about photography!

In these moments I am full of euphoria, happiness and passion.

These small moments in front of my camera lens that seem very intimate, familiar and full of love for people and nature. For me, these are exactly the images that later belong on the wall and not those that are posed or possibly even forced.

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DO YOU CONSIDER IT A CHALLENGING JOB? HOW DO YOU GET THE ANIMALS TO STAY AND “POSE” FOR YOU? As already mentioned, I like natural poses the best. Quite often the animals are simply allowed to walk through the meadows and I look what they offer me all by themselves. But this way of photographing of course does not always work. Sometimes there is a street in the vicinity, other animals, or it is simply not possible to unleash the animal. Should this be the case, patience and the right treats are very important. A dog is a living being that does not understand why humans suddenly stand in front of it with a camera, or wht they try to bring the dog into the right position. It is very important to keep calm, because a stressed owner unsettles his dog and it will not present itself as it is desired.

WHAT IS THE BEST PART OF BEING A FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHER? AND THE MOST CHALLENGING?

Usually, I then go directly to my laptop, to edit the image and try to make it even more beautiful. I always make sure that the look of the image remains natural. Of course it also makes me happy from the bottom of my heart when family, friends, customers or people on social media give me positive feedback on my pictures. I think the biggest challenge for any photographer is the weather. Sun, fog, snow and even rain can create great moods in pictures, but too much can quickly have the opposite effect. In these moments, you often have to be inventive and try to deal with the situation as professionally as possible.

DESCRIBE A TYPICAL SESSION FOR US. WHAT KINDS OF THINGS ARE YOU THINKING ABOUT WHEN YOU’RE BEHIND THE CAMERA? As soon as I have my camera in my hand and my models are ready, I have one thing on my mind: do the animals or people feel comfortable in front of my camera? My goal is to photograph everyone as happily as possible. For many it is difficult at first to be completely natural and confident in front of the cam-

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Also the animals are happy about plenty of bribery and many quiet moments, through which they usually feel that what we are doing is not bad at all.

WHICH BREED IN YOUR OPINION IS MOST PHOTOGENIC? First of all I wanted to mention the breed of Rhodesian Ridgebacks, but I love the possibility to photograph many different breeds. Each breed, or rather each dog, radiates something completely different. I love the elegance and fitness of the Ridgebacks, but also the crazy and funny appearance of for example a Cocker Spaniel. For me, it is the variety that makes photography so exciting!!

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era, but with patience, kind tips and above all a lot of joy in the matter, I have so far been able to conjure up at least a little smile in everyone’s face.

ARE THERE OTHER DOG PHOTOGRAPHERS THAT INSPIRE OR INFLUENCE YOU? IF NOT, WHO OR WHAT DOES? At this point I would like to mention Hannah Meinhardt in particular. We met 9 years ago when our two Ridgeback males were still playing around together in the puppy garden of their breeder. Through her dog Carlos, she started taking pictures and has developed into a great photographer. As soon as I have questions I know that she is happy to help me, and with her incredible creativity she constantly provides new input. But of course there are also many other great artists, which I like to follow on social media and often it is also our own dogs, or situations in shootings that give me inspiration and desire for new images.

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IS THERE ANY ONE THING YOU WISH YOU HAD KNOWN OR PIECE OF ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO AN ASPIRING FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHER? At this point I would like to emphasize that the most important thing is to stay calm and always friendly! As soon as living beings are in front of the camera, you have to get involved with the animals and people, offer them space to develop, feel comfortable and create space for their own ideas. Nothing is more important than the feeling of having fun! As a photographer, this also includes the sensitivity to realize when a shooting should be ended. You can not always implement all the ideas you have in mind and that is perfectly okay. There will be another opportunity!

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DO YOU HAVE ANY PETS OF YOUR OWN? AND WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE ANIMAL? When I was eight years old our first Rhodesian Ridgeback male Ennox and 1,5 years later our second Ridgeback male Gamba moved in our lives. Since then everything at home revolves around dogs. Through our dogs my parents and I have met many great new people with the same passion. This often offered me the opportunity to spend my weekends at dog exhibitions and my school vacations at different Rhodesian Ridgeback breeders as a ‚puppy nanny’. I will never forget these experiences and the different dogs that I was allowed to handle at exhibitions or sometimes for several days and weeks at their home. I will always be grateful for having been able to learn so much about dogs and the right way to raise them. It can be said quite frankly that dogs are my favorite companions and I am looking forward to everything that I will experience in my life with dogs! Dogs are not only my hobby, they are an essential part of my life!!

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If at the end of the shooting everyone goes home tired and happy I have achieved my goal!

OLGA KHAZAI AN INTERVIEW

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Ukraine І Olga Khazai І olgakhazai.com

PLEASE, TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF. HOW DID YOU COME ABOUT BEING A DOG PHOTOGRAPHER AND HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN DOING IT? My name is Olga Khazai, I am 38 years old, I live in Kyiv, Ukraine, with my husband, almost 2-year-old daughter and 2.5-year-old Rhodesian Ridgeback. As far back as I can remember I have always been interested in photography and nature, my family always had dogs. I took up professional dog photography by chance. I had worked as an Import Manager for several years before I quit my job in 2010 to become a professional photographer. I was looking for my calling trying different genres. Among others, I wanted to get a job of a press photographer, as I have always liked photojournalism.

The editor-in-chief could not take me on the staff, but he offered me to shoot photo reports of city events, which I could chose to attend. The very next day, a national dog show was being held not far from my home. That is how the world of cynology trapped me. I didn’t send the photos I took to the newspaper, but published them on a kennel union forum, where I got to know several breeders. The word of mouth worked fast and new clients began to contact me. In 2012, I met the owner of Maanhaar Primo-Creatus kennel, now based in Finland, she became my close friend and the breeder of my Ridgeback. She introduced me to the owner of the top Ukrainian RR kennel Red Hot Line. Since then, Rhodesian Ridgebacks have been prevailing in my portfolio. It’s my favourite breed and I love the challenge to shoot them in different ways each time.

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I settled down to photography in 2005 together with my tourism hobby. I started mastering the technical aspects of photography from books and from my personal experience. I shot a lot on film cameras, and later I learned processing and retouching photos based on online materials. I also took some small specialized courses in photography, such as studio shooting, film development / photo printing, etc.

WHAT OR WHO GOT YOU STARTED PHOTOGRAPHING DOGS? My family’s dogs were my first models. I recall trying to take pictures of my Russian Spaniel with a film point-and-shoot camera in my childhood. Later I tested my first DSLR camera on a German Shorthaired Pointer

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HOW DID YOU FIRST ENTER THE PHOTOGRAPHY WORLD? DID YOU HAVE FORMAL TRAINING? HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN A PHOTOGRAPHER?

named Joy. My father had many books on dogs with colourful illustrations and I wanted to learn how to take shots of my pets just as well. Besides, I just wanted to capture funny moments and emotions to keep them as a remembrance.

WHAT TYPE OF CAMERAS DO YOU SHOOT WITH? WHICH IS YOUR FAVOURITE LENS AND WHY? I had many different cameras. However, in recent years, I conducted commercial shoots with Nikon D800. Not long ago I switched over to Nikon D850, and I consider it a top camera totally meeting my needs thanks to: a) huge resolution, which lets me crop pictures very boldly and not lose details, for example, when shooting dogs in motion; b) excellent dynamic range, which allows me to process RAW files flexibly and save pictures taken in poor lighting conditions or with exposure mistakes;

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c) relatively acceptable continuous shooting rate of 9 fps. My favourite lens is the latest Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8E FL ED AF-S VR. I do not understand how I lived without it before, since it is very convenient, fast, tenacious, sharp and it perfectly blurs the background. Of course, the telephoto lens is the best for exterior shooting, as it does not distort the body proportions. However, I am in search of the perfect high-aperture wide-angle lens for informal life-style shots, as well as shooting dogs in architecture.

WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION? Inspiration is all around me. I can spot some beautiful location natural, urban or interior, and immediately imagine the dog model there. Likewise, I notice beautiful light, weather phenomena, or fancy décor / props. Animals themselves are inspira-

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tion. I prefer reportage approach to shooting and rarely do staged photography. So, inspiration is always there for me together with the excitement of catching the best shot in routine locations. I am used to considering the environment as a potential scene for shooting and often regret that there is no model nearby. I take photos of the location that catches my eye and try to come back there with a dog model. Besides I find inspiration in my equipment. I feel confident, knowing that the gear will not fail at the decisive moment, and I try to get the most out of it using some new techniques or putting creative ideas into practice. And of course, watching and analysing photos of prominent photographers in various genres, styles and techniques, as well as movies and video clips is also important for inspiration. I often make screenshots of some creative ideas that deal with lighting or colour.

DO YOU CONSIDER IT A CHALLENGING JOB? HOW DO YOU GET THE ANIMALS TO STAY AND “POSE” FOR YOU? This job is really not as easy as it may initially seem. It requires both physical training and certain knowledge. I remember that at the beginning of my career, I studied breed standards before each photoshoot. I surfed the Internet to learn about the best ways of presenting different breeds in a

photo and consulted with dog owners. Of course, there are many genres where the correct exterior is not required, but for taking shots of professional breeders’ dogs, such knowledge is critically important. Moreover, I have to know the dog psychology since it is the basis for my work with the model in the frame. I predict the action in a particular situation or induce the model to a certain reaction to unusual sounds, sharp movements, treats, toys, and interaction with the owner or other animals. Dog handlers greatly facilitate my work undoubtedly. In difficult or unsafe locations, I take pictures using a show lead or a leash, which I erase in the photo editor afterwards. And sometimes all you need to do is create a comfortable and safe environment, keep an eye on the model and take shots. One more challenging aspect is that the job is very dynamic. You need to monitor the dog’s emotional and physical condition, as well as the situation all around, lighting, background, composition and camera settings all the time. Sometimes, I have only a split second to capture that one shot with the ears up. You need to be involved in the process permanently and respond to changes quickly. You also have to edit photos as fast as possible in some cases. For example, clients need photo reports from dog shows or litter advertising photos in a day or two since the news should be relevant, and the puppies grow rapidly.

WHAT IS THE BEST PART OF BEING A FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHER? AND THE MOST CHALLENGING? For me, the best part is a joy of the moment. When I am carried away with the shooting process, I am very concentrated on my work. I feel great excitement to shoot that very special shot, to make it even better. It is a moment when I forget about everything in the world, kind of nirvana. The most difficult moment for me is to select photos, as there can be hundreds or thousands of them after one photo session. Some of them are just duplicates of previously taken pictures, and some are overestimated on an impulse. I have to look at the photos with an unbiased eye to choose the best ones. Sometimes I ask my friends to help me with this task.

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DESCRIBE A TYPICAL SESSION FOR US. WHAT KINDS OF THINGS ARE YOU THINKING ABOUT WHEN YOU’RE BEHIND THE CAMERA? As it is known, success depends upon previous preparation. Therefore, I agree on all the main points of shooting in advance. First, I find out the customer’s expectations and tasks, regardless of whether it is an exterior photo session, content shooting for social networks, or a family photo shoot, etc. In some cases, I can ask the client to send me references to clarify the task. Then we agree on the location. I prefer safe places where you can let the dog run without leash or meet other dogs, kids etc. However, I do shoot the dogs on a leash in a crowded city for example. We decide on the date and time, which can be corrected in the future, depending on the weather conditions. I prefer shooting in cloudy weather or during the golden

/ blue hours. Immediately before shooting, I remind my clients to take their dog’s favourite treats, toys, water, grooming tools, and napkins with them. I recommend that they do not feed the dog before photo shooting, so that it has food motivation and to do the proper grooming. We meet on the agreed day, I give the animal some time to look around and get used to the situation while I observe its behaviour, interact with the owner and study the dog’s exterior. We take a walk; I look for an interesting composition, pay attention to the fore- and backgrounds, as well as rhythm, framing, colour, key / backlighting and other elements that can add artistry to the picture. I notice the places that compliment the model, the objects the dog can interact with and the elements where I can place it. I often shoot in natural light, but sometimes I also use additional impulse or continuous led-light sources. Most recently, I like to do night city lighting sessions. Having positioned the model, I try to attract its interested attention, evoke the desired emotion, or just let the dog get comfortable on the spot. In the process of shooting, I communicate with the owner, find out what commands the pet can perform, what its habits and favourite games are. All these can make the shooting more varied. I alternate static shots with dynamic ones and some shots with the owner. I love sincere emotions of their communication and spontaneous game moments. Animals need to relax after or between static shots. My photo shoot is often limited by the dog’s general condition, since everyone gets tired sooner or later.

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WHICH BREED IN YOUR OPINION IS MOST PHOTOGENIC? For me, graceful and powerful aristocratic Rhodesian Ridgebacks are unconditional leaders... In general, shorthaired dogs of similar appearance and type of body structure are all photogenic for me. I adore German Shorthaired Pointers, Weimaraners, Dalmatians etc. I also like funny dynamic shots with long-eared dogs such as Bassets, Bracco Italiano, etc. Some breeds historically and stylistically fit perfectly into certain environments and look organically photogenic there. Probably the most difficult breeds for me are long-haired ones with fringe overlapping the eyes. The thing is the straight glance to the camera or just an interested open gaze is always the point of focus in the photo. Taken as a whole, I can say from my experience that photogenicity does not depend on the breed; it is rather the dog’s personal charisma and the depth of its gaze.

ARE THERE OTHER DOG PHOTOGRAPHERS THAT INSPIRE OR INFLUENCE YOU? IF NOT, WHO OR WHAT DOES? I enjoy watching the works of other photographers and probably borrow something from them subconsciously. However, even when I try to repeat a certain style of photo shoot or processing, I return to my usual work algorithm. I strive to

ensure that my photos would have some unique and recognizable style and do not need to be signed. Aside from commercial photography, I am inspired by the distinguished photographers whose pictures of dogs have become the world art masterpieces. These include staged portraits of Weimaraners by William Wegman and street photos by Elliott Erwitt.

IS THERE ANY ONE THING YOU WISH YOU HAD KNOWN OR PIECE OF ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO AN ASPIRING FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHER? The key piece of advice is to photograph as much as possible and in various challenging conditions. Choose complex models, for example, shelter dogs. This experience will help you to feel confident in your skills in any situation.

DO YOU HAVE ANY PETS OF YOUR OWN? AND WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE ANIMAL? I have a Rhodesian Ridgeback, Archy. He’s 2.5 years old and he’s is my favourite model, I test all my new ideas on him. Some time ago I had rats, the smartest cuties. In general, I definitely love all animals.

ANOULA VOERMAN AN INTERVIEW

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the Netherlands І Jaggie’s pawprint І info@jaggiespawprint.nl, www.jaggiespawprint.nl

PLEASE, TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF. HOW DID YOU COME ABOUT BEING A DOG PHOTOGRAPHER AND HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN DOING IT? My name is Anoula Voerman and live in the Netherlands. Flat landscapes to make it a challenge for captivating dog photography. In between rain showers. I was into photography from childhood, taking snapshots. Over the years I started to photograph landscapes during holidays. But with our bouncy Jack Russell that came years later, I tried to capture his jumps and cute face. When it was time for him to pass the rainbowbridge, I found comfort in the many photographs I made of him during the years. More and more I wanted to capture the beauty and whimsical fun dogs bring to our lives. And for some people it is hard to lay flat on the ground. And when you do, your dog will think you want to play and comes running towards you. So I help the owners by having a blast when taking photographs. They can focus

on their dog, I focus on the photography. So I can capture the animal’s personality. It is always working together with the owners. I have been photographing dogs in a regular basis for about 7 years now.

HOW DID YOU FIRST ENTER THE PHOTOGRAPHY WORLD? DID YOU HAVE FORMAL TRAINING? HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN A PHOTOGRAPHER? I was about 9 when I was given my first snapshot camera. I then started trying to take pictures with my fathers camera, a DSLR. With film back then. I bought my first DSLR in 2001. Learning more with each film I used. I’m a trained garden and landscape designer, so always working with nature. 7 years ago I upgraded my system to a more speedy camera to capture action better. I took a workshop in dog photography, but did not have other formal training or a degree in photography.

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WHAT OR WHO GOT YOU STARTED PHOTOGRAPHING DOGS? My dad introduced me to a camera. That got me started in photography. But our Jack Russell got me started in dog photography. This funny little energetic dog was out and about all day long, having a blast. A challenge to capture that in a picture. But learning a tiny bit each time.

WHAT TYPE OF CAMERAS DO YOU SHOOT WITH? WHICH IS YOUR FAVOURITE LENS AND WHY? I started out with Pentax camera’s, but switched to Canon about 7 years ago. Until this year still used Pentax for macro photography, but walking around with 2 different brands/systems is not handy. So I switched to a Canon macro lens. I shot most of my animal photographs with the Canon 7D. Recently I extended my gear with the Canon

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Learning more by trial and error, figuring out camera settings, reading books about photography and some workshops now and then.

DO YOU CONSIDER IT A CHALLENGING JOB? HOW DO YOU GET THE ANIMALS TO STAY AND “POSE” FOR YOU?

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Posing animals is an art on its own and usually hard work for the owners. Not all dogs like to be touched by strangers or they get really stressed out by it. So the owner will handle and pose the dog, I can give them directions, but it depends on the animal. They know their pal best and the dogs trust them. But also let the dog have fun, running around, sniffing the environment. Sometimes they see another dog or person and just stop and start looking at what the other dog or person is doing in the distance. Then they are alert. Some dogs are more hesitant towards other dogs and then I will look for a more quiet spot to take the photographs. Challenging? It can be. Sometimes there are dogs with so much energy, running all over the place or just jumping up and down. You just need that split-second for a nice photo, but with some dogs that split-second is hard because they are all over the place. It can then be a challenge to stay patient, wait until they settle down a bit. Sometimes a shoot can take a bit longer, but when working with animals you should not be on a time schedule.

WHAT IS THE BEST PART OF BEING A FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHER? AND THE MOST CHALLENGING?

R6. My absolute favourite lens is a 70-200mm f2.8. It gives you a bit of zoom, but also speed and very nice soft backgrounds. It is a fast lens for action, but still a great one for portraits too.

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WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION? Mostly in the dogs themselves. I can have a plan or picture I want to make in mind, but a lot of animals just do their own thing. And that is what makes it fun. Never a dull moment when working with animals.

Best part? The shoot itself. No shoot is the same. Some dogs get excited, some need a bit more time to feel comfortable in the surroundings. Sometimes you can see the change from excitement to more comfortable. I see all kinds of breeds and learn about them. And see all the different personalities even within breeds. How fun is that? Most of the work starts after the shoot: selecting and editing.

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This can be challenging. Most challenging I think is dogs that are really out of their element, maybe scared or really alert. You need time to gain trust. Sometimes let them play or just sniff around. I have photographed dogs that are moving around more than ferrets, capturing a hummingbird in flight could have been easier than those dogs. Take a deep breath, stay calm and patient…

DESCRIBE A TYPICAL SESSION FOR US. WHAT KINDS OF THINGS ARE YOU THINKING ABOUT WHEN YOU’RE BEHIND THE CAMERA? Actually it starts before the session. Together with the owner we will look for suitable surroundings. What landscape do they prefer? Meadows, forest

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etc. does the dog like water or not? I would like to know if the dog is social, has issues or not. When they do, how do I respond when first seeing the dog. I will keep an eye on the weather report. A drop or two is not a problem, but heavy rain is not much fun for both dog, owner and me. If heavy rain is expected, we will reschedule the shoot. Rain showers can be fun and give special light. Sometimes we have to wait it out a bit. Heavy sunshine is not the thing I prefer most. Is the weather is sunny, we may switch to a forest, or if the owner likes sunshine, it is ok. Hot weather can be a problem. If it is too hot, we need to find a new date. Sometimes we switch to the hour before sunset or right after sunrise. Best light is of course the golden hour. But I don’t always shoot in this light, light can be special during the rest of the day, but I avoid the middle of the day when I can. I let the dog decide if and when it wants to come closer. We walk to the photography location and let the dog sniff around a bit. Let them settle down a bit after a carried. I most of the time start with some portraits, but it depends on the dog. If it is too excited, we may switch to some action first. It also depends on the kind of photos the owner would like. If they can pose a bit, and treats really go a long way, I will take those pictures but also the moments in between, the more candid shots. Like when it looks at a leave falling, bird flying by or when they hear a noise or smelling something in the air. If there are more dogs in the same family, they can play together for some action shots. But I also let them run individually. Some dogs need a bit more space between each other. That is ok. It is who they are. If they are really to bouncy we can also take individual photos and use Pho-

toshop to create a family portrait. I keep an eye out for the wellbeing of the dog. When it is not looking happy, I will try to break the tension a bit by altering posing and playtime. Let the dog sniff, chase their favourite toy a bit. Some just need a bit more time, that’s ok for me. I’d rather spend half an hour extra so the dog is having fun. Behind the camera, actually between taking photos, I’m thinking of composition, what location could also be fun and in between photos I will have a look if the settings are still correct. But I also work in the moment, what is presented by the dog, the unexpected. I’m not a in the moment person normally, but when photographing I can lose track of time and just go with the flow. Together with the owner we can see when the dog has had enough. Time to stop. Time for the dog to have some sleep, time for me to start working (editing).

WHICH BREED IN YOUR OPINION IS MOST PHOTOGENIC? Oh gosh…. Do I really have to pick one? Every breed has something special. Small, large, fluffy, colour, floppy ears or perky ones… of course there are breeds that are easier to work with. A husky can totally do its own thing, border collies want to work hard… but every animal has it’s own beauty. Even the most bouncy dogs have a moment where they stand still, look up for that splitsecond.

ARE THERE OTHER DOG PHOTOGRAPHERS THAT INSPIRE OR INFLUENCE YOU? IF NOT, WHO OR WHAT DOES?

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Sure there are. There is always room to learn more, be inspired. But I think for me it is not a particular photographer, more a particular photograph. The biggest inspiration for me comes from nature. Colours, patterns, changing seasons. Of course I also google sometimes for new ideas, there are some facebookgroups with photographers, but the animal and surroundings and of course light are always different.

IS THERE ANY ONE THING YOU WISH YOU HAD KNOWN OR PIECE OF ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO AN ASPIRING FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHER? Learn all the features of your camera. There may be some handy settings you didn’t know about. Be patient and stick with it. Keep trying, keep learning, try new things outside your comfort zone and don’t compare to others much. Editing software can be overwhelming, but take a class, workshop or similar to start with the basics. Then just try out many things and learn along the way. Don’t be afraid to look back at the pictures you took many years ago and see what you learned so far. Be patient and keep your calm when the dog is really all over the place and be ready for that tiny moment, the unexpected. All dogs have that tiny moment when they look up. DO YOU HAVE ANY PETS OF

YOUR OWN? AND WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE ANIMAL?

A house is not a home without a dog, so there is a little energetic cuddle bug walking around in mine.

Favourite animal? Dogs, dogs and more dogs. Ok, aside from dogs? Again, do I have to pick one? All animals have something special, but I do prefer the more cuddly ones, dogs, cats, bunnies, birds. But the lesser understood animals can be amazing, like dragonflies. I have to say butterflies are something special. Especially early in the morning when they are still covered in dew. Like many others, I don’t like spiders, snakes or weird bugs that much. Luckily there are telephoto lenses.

WOULD YOU LIKE TO ADD SOMETHING? All animals have something special. But the relationship the dog decided to have with people is something else. Their loyalty still amazes me. Their ability not to worry about the future, how their noses work, what they want to do for you, each with its own personality, comfort you, different breeds, they just amaze me. There is the saying (can’t remember who said it): dogs are not our whole life, but they make our lives whole.

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Head photo by Maja Kljaja

L I V E R N O S E

R U L E S

T A I T T I N G E R

OUR COVER D OG

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HOW DID “ ROCKET” COME TO FCI MUNA YA KUSINI KENNEL?

WHAT ARE HIS GREATEST SUCCESSES?

Rocket’s greatest success is certainly owed to the fact that he likes shows so much. Even as a 3-month-old puppy, he not only watched the show circus with fascination, but also trotted into the show ring like a little professional. Rocket was certainly one of the youngest junior Champions: at only 9 months and 2 days old he became Junior Champion and BISJ3. Barely 3 months later, Rocket made the fantastic 3rd place in Junior class at CRUFTS 2020 shortly before the worldwide Corona Lockdown. We just wanted to be there once at CRUFTS, we never dreamed that it would be crowned with such success. During the worldwide pandemic it was extremely difficult to show. At exactly 1.5 years of age, Rocket passed this hurdle and achieved his first championship in September 2020. Another year later, at the young age of 2.5 years, Rocket is already C.I.B. International Champion, Multi Champion, Grand Champion and achieved the FCI Champion titles during 365 days in 7 countries. We are just so impressed and very proud of our amazing boy.

WHAT DO YOU LIKE ABOUT SHOWING?

It is definitely one of the greatest privileges to have an exceptional dog that loves to show and is successful at it. Of course, you also have to like showing - with all its other facets: long journeys, waiting times and a lot of patience, even if you don’t succeed sometimes. The most important thing is teamwork and believing in yourself and in your dog, then you can achieve a lot. The whole atmosphere around the Show ground, meeting different breeders & friends and places is quite exciting and a holiday enrichment.

WHAT ARE YOUR FUTURE PLANS?

For sure to enrich my own small Swiss FCI Kennel Of Muna ya Kusini with the good genes of Rocket with suitable bitches. This is also the reason why I will not use my boy for breeding until he is 3 years old and perfect in my eyes and for the breed. Breeding for me is not trying but combining the best match.

IS THERE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO ADD?

Maybe I will work on 2 - 3 more Champion titles with Rocket and maybe also participate in a World Dog Show and/or EU Dog Show, but definitely return to CRUFTS. I will certainly retire him from the show world in time when he has reached the pinnacle of success and give him a fantastic, ridgeback-appropriate life in nature and of course as a member of our entire family. Besides being a successful champion dog, at home, he is our calming point and can also be the sweetest clown sometimes.

FACTSHEET ROCKET Name C.I.B., Int. Ch., Multi Ch., Grand Ch., BISJ, Livernose Rules Taittinger „Rocket“ Mother C.I.B., Int. Ch., Multi Ch., Multi BISS (Sweden) Ave Caesar Driving Me Onwards „Duba“ Father 2x WW, 2 x EUW, C.I.B., Int. Ch., Multi Ch., Multi BISS (Russia) Makao Line Atuin Art

DOB March 5th, 2019 (Netherlands) imported to Switzerland Achievements

Champion of 7 FCI Countries, CRUFTS Junior 3rd www. of-muna.ch

Photos by Rebecca Heri Fotografie

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In 2018, following the incredible success of his famous Livernose mother “Duba” C.I.B. MCh. Multi BISS Ave Caesar Driving Me onwards, record holder of 25 FCI Champion titles, I knew I wanted a puppy from this exceptional bitch to bring fresh blood for our Kennel in Switzerland. When it became clear who the sire was: 2x WW, 2 x EU Winner, C.I.B., MCh. Makao Line Atuin Art, I knew that this was the ideal combination of a Ridgeback I had always dreamed of: Elegance, combined with a fantastic conformation – strong bone and above all good movement of the parents, were very important to me. Originally a female was envisaged, but then I visited Marjolein’s „Champagne litter“ in 2019. When I saw Mr. Black it was all over for me. Rocket was already an eye catcher at the tender age of 7 weeks. Indeed, he has remained so in every way. Rocket is a very masculine male, with a fantastic construction, and movement that floats with a top line to dream of. Healthy in every way and with a typical loving Ridgeback attitude. But more importantly: he is my absolute soul dog. He has a dream temperament, communicates with me as if we were an old married couple and he is of course the absolute king in the house. Rocket is a „one in a million dog “. I am grateful that Marjolein entrusted me with this treasure and I would never give Rocket away for any money in the world. We all love him dearly and hope he will be with us for all eternity.

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE ISSUE 8/2021

Articles inside

THE RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK - THE NATIONAL DOG OF SOUTH AFRICA

TURMERIC GOLDEN PASTE FOR DOGS

COVER BOY: Livernose Rules Taittinger „Rocket“

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK RESCUE FRANCE

Kennel KADAMO - Greetings from Sweden

Kizazi Ajabu (Breeder)

CHAMPIONSHIP SHOW