Italy - The Pocket Guide

fo l l ow yo ur wa n de rl u s t.

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I T A LY

written by cristian bonetto photography by jo fagerstrom and natalie dawson

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IN T RODUCT ION Italy is the home of famous artists such as Leonardo Da Vinci and Michaelangelo. It is also the country where pizza, pasta, and gelato originate. The country takes pride in wonderfully magnificent and breathtaking museums, landmarks and monuments.

Italian cuisine is one of the most delicious foods in all the world.

Citizens take pride in making the best pizza, gelato, cheese, and pasta in the world. They certainly will leave you wanting more. It is no wonder why this country is applauded by food critics!

Italy is also famous for impeccable taste in art. It is the home of the famous Leonardo Da Vinci, Michaelangelo, Botticelli, and numerous other artistic masters. This country is also the home of the most historic and beautiful churches in the world such as St. PeterÂ’s Basilica and the Basilica of St. Mary Major. These are all adorned with magnificent paintings and other works of art.

Milan is considered the fashion capital of the world, as it is the home of the most famous fashion designers. Walk their boutiques and stores for a shop until you drop experience. You will not find yourself ever regretting any of your purchases.

All in all, Italy is a mecca of art, culture, and history that calls out for exploration. We are glad you've decided to embrace the Italian experience.

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TA BLE OF CON T EN TS

INTRODUCTION

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OVERVIEW

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VENICE

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F LO R E N C E

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ROME

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MILAN

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PRACTICALITIES

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OV ERV IEW WHEN TO GO The immediate response is any time! On a more serious note, the best period is April to June. The weather then is sunny without being stifling, the countryside bursts with spring flowers, and the flood of summer tourism, largely dictated by school holidays, has yet to crash over the peninsula.

MONEY

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The euro is Italy s currency. Italy isn t cheap, although compared with the UK and northern Europe, the situation is not so bad.

What you spend on accommodation will depend on various factors such as location, season, the degree of comfort, and luck. At the bottom end you will pay €14 to €20 at youth hostels, where meals generally cost €9.50. You can stumble across comfortable rooms with their own bathroom from €50 to €80. Midrange hotels in the more expensive places such as Rome, Florence and Venice can easily cost from €80 to €150 for singles or €120 to €200 for doubles.

REQUIRED DOCUMENTS Citizens of the United States are required to present a passport valid for at least three months beyond the intended stay in Italy.

Visas are not required for Americans visiting Italy for less than three months, whether for business or tourism. Upon entry into Italy from outside the European Union, you will receive a stamp in your visa that serves as a Declaration of Presence in the country. If you are arriving from another EU country, like Spain or France, you will need to obtain this Declaration of Presence form from the local police or your hotel and return the form to the police within eight days of arrival.

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the city o f water From the look of it, you d think Venice spent all its time primping. Bask in the glory of Grand Canal palaces, but make no mistake, this city s a powerhouse.

You may have heard that Venice is an engineering marvel, with marble churches built atop ancient posts driven deep into the barren mud banks. But the truth is that this city is built on sheer nerve. You d think reasonable people would blanch at water approaching their doorsteps and flee at the first sign of acqua alta or high tide. But reason doesn t compare to Venetian resolve. Instead of bailing out, Venetians have flooded the world with voluptuous Venetian-red wines and paintings, Marco Polo spice-route flavors, and bohemian-chic fashion. And they re not done yet. veni ce \\ over view

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ACCOMMODAT IONS H OT E L S Hotel La Calcina – 780 Fondamenta Zattere Ai Gesuati Upgrade from ordinary seaside resorts to La Calcina, with breezy roof-garden breakfasts, canal-dock restaurant, and panoramas of Palladio s Redentore church across Giudecca Canal.

Book ahead for waterfront rooms, especially No 2, where John Ruskin wrote his classic 1876 The Stones of Venice.

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Hotel Noemi – 909 Calle Dei Fabbri Gilded baroque beds and Murano mood lighting in brocade-swagged guest-rooms give stays here undeniable Venetian charm but Noemi doesn t just get by on looks. Besides its prime location 50m behind Piazza San Marco, Noemi offers reserved garage space and 24-hour reception for late arrivals and early departures. Bathrooms are small, but the convivial breakfast salon is a perk.

Albergo Casa Peron – 84 Salizzada San Pantalon In true eccentric Venetian style, guest-rooms here are located in a maze of staircases and corridors, paintings cover the walls salon-style, and resident parrot Pierino greets guests in the lobby. This hotel is hidden down the calle from I Frari and around the corner from Campo Santa Margherita, with basic yet personable rooms. Ask for Room No 5, featuring a terrace overlooking I Frari.

HOSTELS Foresteria Valdese – Castello 5170 Sestiere di Castello Holy hostel: this rambling palace retreat owned by the Waldensian church has single guest-rooms with 18th-century frescoes by Bevilacqua, and one floor up guest-rooms have canal views. Dorm beds are available only for families or groups; book well ahead. Rates include breakfast.

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DI N I NG CAFES & BAKERIES Acquastanca – Fondamenta Manin 48 Caterina and Giovanna s old bakery has been transformed into a warm, modern space with nary a garish Murano trinket in sight. Sit down amid a symphony of marble, concrete and brushed steel and order plump prawns in a web of filo pastry or exquisitely sweet tuna tartare and homemade gnocchi with scallops. There s also a generous bar, where you can grab a coffee and homemade cake in the morning or glasses of wine and platters of cheese come early evening.

R E S TA U R A N T S Osteria alla Staffa – Calle dell’Ospedale 6397a With fish fresh from the Rialto every morning and a preference for organic veg and cheese, Alberto s takes on Venetian classics have flavorful foundations. If you can t find a seat, grab cicheti at the bar. You won t be disappointed.

A Beccafico – Campo Santo Stefano 2801 Far from clubby pubs lining Venice s alleyways, A Beccafico basks in the sunshine of Campo Santo Stefano and open Venetian admiration. Linger over feather-light Pieoropan Soave Classico, and leave with a surprisingly full belly and wallet.

Le Garzette – Lungomare Alberoni 32, Lido Nestled amid gardens overflowing with red radicchio, astringent fennel, handsome pumpkins and dark-green courgettes is the rust-red agriturismo of Renza and Salvatore. Choose between a meat or a fish menu and wait for the parade of organic dishes: crepes filled with juicy asparagus, lightly fried Malamocco artichokes and mouthwatering pear tart. If you aren t staying the night, reservations are essential for the restaurant.

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SIGHTSEEI NG MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Gallerie dell Accademia – Campo della Carità 1050 Hardly academic, these galleries contain more murderous intrigue, forbidden romance and shameless politicking than the most outrageous Venetian parties.

Scuola Grande di San Rocco – Campo San Rocco 3052 Everyone wanted the commission to paint this building dedicated to the patron saint of the plague-stricken, so Tintoretto cheated: instead of producing sketches like rival Veronese, he gifted a splendid ceiling panel of patron St Roch, knowing it couldn t be refused or matched by other artists.

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RELIGIOUS SIGHTS Basilica di San Marco – Piazza San Marco Creating Venice s architectural wonder took nearly 800 years and one saintly barrel of lard. In AD 828, wily Venetian merchants allegedly smuggled St Mark s corpse out of Egypt in a barrel of pork fat to avoid inspection by Muslim customs authorities. Venice built a golden basilica around its stolen saint, whose bones were misplaced twice during construction (oops).

PA L AC E S & M O N U M E N T S Palazzo Ducale – Piazzetta San Marco 52 Don t be fooled by its genteel elegance: behind that pink facade, the Doge s Palace shows a steely will to survive. For seven centuries, this palace stood the test of storms, crashes and conspiracies only to be outwitted by Casanova, the notorious seducer who escaped from the attic prison. venice \\ s ights eeing

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ACT I V IT IES ADVENTURE Gondolas A gondola is like a luxury car. Choose a gondola stop in the area you want to visit. If you want back canals, walk a few blocks off the main street and away from San Marco to look for a gondolier.

Vaporetti Venice s vaporetti, or water buses, are the public transportation of Venice. Vaporetti take visitors along the main canals, to the islands, and around the lagoon.

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Rialto Market Rialto markets have provided produce to local restaurants for over 700 years. If you want to experience grocery shopping like a true Venetian, this is an essential stop.

E N T E R TA I N M E N T Palazetto Bru Zane – Palazetto Bru Zane 2368 Pleasure palaces don t get more romantic than Palazetto Bru Zane on concert nights, when exquisite harmonies tickle Sebastiano Ricci angels tumbling across stucco-frosted ceilings.

Its academic music concerts are pure pleasure.

Venice Jazz Club – Ponte dei Pugni 3102 Jazz is alive and swinging in Dorsoduro, where the resident Venice Jazz Club Quartet pays regular respects to Miles Davis and John Coltrane and grooves to bossa nova and chanteuse standards. Arrive by 8pm to pounce on free cold-cut platters.

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DAY T RIPS VENETIAN ISLANDS Murano, Burano, and Torcello are the top three islands to visit on day trips from Venice. Murano is known as the island of glass-makers, Burano has canals lined with picturesque colored houses and is known for lace making, and Torcello is a green island where you can see Byzantine mosaics in the Cathedral. Getting there: From Fondamenta Nove, vaporetto Number 41 or 42 to Murano, LN 12 to Burano and Torcello.

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VERONA Verona, sometimes called the Florence of the North, is famous for the house and balcony said to belong to Juliet in the Shakespeare story, Romeo and Juliet. Verona has a 2000 year old Roman Arena where summer opera performances are held, a Roman bridge, and a market square that was once the Roman Forum. Verona is one of Italy s most visited cities. Getting there: Trains from Venice to Verona take just over one hour to 1 œ hours.

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PA D U A Padua (Padova) is a walled city east of Venice. It has Europe s oldest Botanical Gardens, the Basilica di Sant Antonio, and Scrovegni Chapel frescoes by Giotto. The gardens and Basilica are across town from the train station, a pleasant walk through the historic center. Padua is a lovely small city, and a great alternative to staying in Venice. Getting there: Trains from Venice to Padova take about half an hour and run frequently.

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The city of mile-high stilettos, the Duomo, soaring red-tiled rooftops, plates of bistecca alla fiorentina and Michelangelo s David. Florence, or Firenze, is one of the world s great art repositories, but there s more to the Renaissance City than monuments and museums. While art lovers could stay busy for weeks doing the rounds of the Uffizi, the Accademia, the Duomo, and many others, the city also offers plenty to inspire foodies, fashionistas, and fans of the good life. Florence s historic center is very compact and walkable, and one of the great pleasures of a stay in this gem of a city is simply wandering its narrow, cobbled backstreets and quiet piazzas.

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ACCOMMODAT IONS H OT E L S Hotel Orchidea – Borgo Degli Albizi 11 This old-fashioned pensione in the mansion where the Donati family roosted in the 13th century (Dante s wife, Gemma, was allegedly born in the tower) is charm personified. Its seven rooms are simple, but their outlook is five-star.

Hotel San Giovanni – Via Cerretani 2 Although the stairwell up to the 2nd floor isn t promising, this guest-house is one of the best deals in town, especially when you consider the fact that most rooms have up-close views of the Duomo, Campanile and Baptistery. Buzz to enter and ride the cage lift up to what was once the bishop s private residence where fresco traces still adorn room 3. Lofty ceilings top off the other eight light and spacious rooms; rooms 6, 7 and 8 look at the cathedral.

HOSTELS Academy Hostel – Via Ricasoli 9 Cheap accommodation shouldn t compromise on comfort is the much-appreciated philosophy of this modern 10-room hostel, snug on the 1st floor of Baron Ricasoli s 17th-century palazzo with dreamy interior courtyard and terrace. The reception area was once a theatre and dorms sport maximum four or six beds, high molded ceilings, brightly colored lockers and chic flower-adorned screens.

Ostello Gallo D’Oro – Via Cavour 104 Florence Dorms at this popular choice max at five beds, all have private bathroom and TV and three have a balcony. Internet and wi-fi are free, breakfast is buffet-style, there are free dinners with wine and beer two nights per week and there s no curfew.

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DI N I NG CAFES & BAKERIES Mariano – Via del Parione 19r Our favorite for its simplicity, around since 1973. Sunrise to sunset this brick-vaulted, 13th-century cellar gently buzzes with Florentines propped at the counter sipping coffee, wine or eating salads and panini. Come here for a coffee-and-pastry breakfast, light lunch, aperitivo or panino to eat on the move.

Trattoria Mario Arrive by noon to ensure a stool at this noisy, busy, brilliant trattoria. Charming Fabio, whose grandfather opened the place in 1953, is front of house while big brother Romeo and nephew Francesco cook with speed in the kitchen.

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R E S TA U R A N T S Il Teatro del Sale – Via dei Macci 111r Florentine chef, Fabio Picchi, is one of Florence s living treasures who steals the show with this eccentric, good-value members-only club (annual membership €7) inside an old theatre. He cooks up breakfast, lunch and dinner, culminating at 9:30pm in a live performance arranged by his wife, artistic director and comic actress Maria Cassi. Dinners are hectic: grab a chair, serve yourself water, wine and antipasti and wait for the chef to yell out what s about to be served before queuing at the glass hatch. Dessert and coffee are laid out buffet-style just prior to the performance. iO Osteria Personale – Borgo San Frediano 167r Persuade everyone at your table to order the tasting menu to avoid the torture of picking just one dish. Pontedera-born chef Nicolò Baretti uses only seasonal products, natural ingredients and traditional flavors to sensational effect.

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SIGHTSEEI NG MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Uffizi Gallery – Piazzale degli Uffizi 6 The jewel in Florence s crown, the Uffizi fills the vast U-shaped Palazzo degli Uffizi. Its collection spans the gamut of art history, but its core is the masterpiece-rich Renaissance collection. Botticelli works fill an entire room. Visits are best kept to three or four hours. When it gets too much, head to the rooftop cafe for fresh air and fabulous views.

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Galleria dell’Accademia – Via Ricasoli 60 A lengthy queue marks the door to this gallery, built to house one of the Renaissance s greatest masterpieces, Michelangelo s original David. Fortunately, the world s most famous statue is worth the wait. The subtle detail of the real thing the veins in his sinewy arms, the leg muscles, the change in expression as you move around the statue is impressive.

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RELIGIOUS SIGHTS Duomo – Piazza del Duomo Florence s duomo, the city s most iconic landmark, is among Italy s Big Three (with Pisa s Leaning Tower and Rome s Colosseum). Its red-tiled dome, graceful campanile (bell tower) and breathtaking pink, white and green marble facade have the wow factor in spades. Begun in 1296 by Sienese architect Arnolfo di Cambio, the cathedral took almost 150 years and thousands of craftsmen to complete.

PA L AC E S & M O N U M E N T S Corridoio Vasariano If you have to move from one of your palatial city homes to another, why should you have to descend to the streets to do so? The Medicis saw no reason to, and in 1565 Cosimo I ordered court architect Giorgio Vasari to construct the Corridoio Vasariano. The indoor promenade still provides an unbroken link between the Uffizi and the Palazzo Pitti all the way across the Arno.

Palazzo Vecchio – Piazza della Signoria Florence s fortress palace, with its striking crenelations and 94m high tower, was designed by Arnolfo di Cambio between 1298 and 1314 for the signoria. Highlights include scaling the tower and admiring the Salone dei Cinquecento, created for the Council of 500 that ruled Florence during the 15th century.

Don t miss Michelangelo s sculpture Genio della Vittoria. fl oren ce \\ s ights eeing

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ACT I V IT IES PA R K S & S Q U A R E S Giardino di Boboli – Piazza Pitti Behind Palazzo Pitti, the Boboli Gardens laid out in the 16th century to a design by architect Niccolò Pericoli are a prime example of a formal Tuscan garden, and they are lovely to wander. At the upper, southern limit, fantastic views over the Florentine countryside fan out.

Piazza della Republica The site of a Roman forum and heart of medieval Florence, this busy civic space was created in the 1880s as part of a controversial plan of civic improvements involving the demolition of the old market, Jewish ghetto and slums, and the relocation of nearly 6000 residents.

Loggia dei Lanzi What makes this gorgeous square so agreeable is, in part, its wealth of fountains and statues, climaxing with this 14th-century loggia where works such as Giambologna s Rape of the Sabine Women, Benvenuto Cellini s bronze Perseus, and Agnolo Gaddi s Seven Virtues are displayed. The loggia owes its name to the guards of Cosimo I, who were stationed here. The present-day guards live up to this heritage, sternly monitoring crowd behavior and promptly banishing anyone seen carrying food or drink.

E N T E R TA I N M E N T Volume – Piazza Santo Spirito 3r Fabulous armchairs, lots of recycled and upcycled vintage furniture, books to read, juke box, crepes and a tasty little choice of nibbles with coffee or lunch give this hybrid cafe/bar/gallery real appeal all in an old hat-making workshop. Stop by after 8pm to enjoy the night club that pops up here after dark. fl oren ce \\ a c tivities

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DAY T RIPS PISA Pisa is famous for its leaning tower, beautiful Duomo, and Baptistery in the Piazza dei Miracoli. Pisa also has a good medieval center and a walk along the river. Pisa is easily reached by train or bus from Florence. ItÂ’s about a 25 to 30 minute walk from the train station to the Piazza dei Miracoli.

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CINQUE TERRE

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If you ever get tired of life, bypass the therapist and decamp immediately to Cinque Terre. Here five crazily constructed fishing villages, set amid some of the most dramatic coastal scenery on the planet, ought to provide enough to bolster the most jaded of spirits. A Unesco World Heritage Site since 1997, Cinque Terre isnÂ’t the undiscovered Eden it once was but, frankly, who cares? Sinuous paths tempt the antisocial to traverse seemingly impregnable cliff-sides, while a 19th-century railway line cut through a series of coastal tunnels ferries the less brave from village to village. Thankfully cars were banned over a decade ago.

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SIENA Siena is a classic Tuscan medieval hill town and one of the most popular. ItÂ’s a pretty town with a large fan-shaped piazza, beautiful cathedral, pedestrian streets with shops, and the second highest medieval bell tower in Italy (with 505 steps to the top). Siena, 60 km south of Florence, is accessible by either train or bus, but the bus stops in the center while the train station is downhill from the center (with a connecting bus). fl orence \\ d ay tr ip s

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the eternal ci ty Rome, as they say, was not built in a day. Nor can travelers really experience the Eternal City in a day, or even a year. Rome s numerous and diverse neighborhoods require some time to fully explore. You could start by strolling through its ancient wonders, including the Forum, the Colosseum, and the Pantheon, then perusing the food vendors at the new Testaccio Market and sampling the traditional restaurants and watering holes of the Centro Storico. But you d not want to miss the old Jewish ghetto, the Monti neighborhood, with its boutiques and wine bars, and the broad avenues leading to the Spanish Steps. And, of course, stopping for a shot of espresso and a scoop of gelato is virtually a necessity. rom e \\ over view

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ACCOMMODAT IONS H OT E L S Villa Mangili – Via G. Mangili 3 Housed in a glorious early 20th-century villa, this gracious three-star offers a stylish retreat in the heart of the exclusive Parioli neighborhood. Its 12 individually styled rooms are good looking, and the intimate, shady garden is a wonderful place for a cool drink at the end of a hard day.

Hotel Castelfidardo – Via Castelfidardo 31 Castelfidardo has beautiful high-ceilinged rooms that are not too cramped. These rooms are basic but reasonably smart and have swagged curtains, wallpaper borders and tiled floors.

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HOSTELS Alessandro Palace – Via Vicenza 42 This long-standing, well-kept favorite offers spic-and-span, terracotta-floored doubles and triples, as well as dorms sleeping from four to eight, all with cheery bedspreads. Every room has its own bathroom with hairdryer. There s a basement bar and it runs local tours.

Colors – Via Boezio 31 Popular with young travelers, this is a bright budget hotel with smart, vibrantly colored rooms spread over three floors (no lift though). There are also cheaper rooms with shared bathrooms and, from June to August, dorms (€12 to €35 per person) for guests under 38.

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DI N I NG CAFES & BAKERIES Necci – Via Fanfulla da Lodi 68 To start your exploration of this bar-studded area, try the iconic Necci, opened in 1924, where film director Pasolini used to hang out, and where he filmed some of Accattone.

More recently it appeared in Francesca Archibugi s Una Questione de Cuore. Gutted by fire in 2009, it was swiftly restored to how it was. It caters to an eclectic crowd of all ages, and has a lovely, leafy garden-terrace.

Il Dolci di Nonna Vincenza – Via Arco del Monte 98a Although a pastry shop and a delightful one with old wooden dressers laden with traditional Sicilian cakes and all manner of tempting gift ideas it s difficult to resist eating here.

R E S TA U R A N T S L’Asino d’Oro – Via del Boschetto 73 This fabulous restaurant has been transplanted from Orvieto and its Umbrian origins resonate in Lucio Sforza s delicious, exceptional cooking. For such excellent food, this intimate, informal yet classy place is one of Rome s best deals, especially for the set lunch.

Enoteca Provincia Romana – Via Foro Traiano 82-4 The best option in the touristy Forum area, this stylish wine bar-cum-restaurant showcases food from the surrounding Lazio region. Service is friendly and the location overlooking the Colonna di Traiano is wonderfully atmospheric.

Open Colonna – Via Milano 9a Spectacularly set at the back of Palazzo delle Esposizioni, super chef Antonello Colonna s superb restaurant is tucked onto a mezzanine floor under an extraordinary glass roof. ro me \\ d ining

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SIGHTSEEI NG HISTORIC SIGHTS Colosseum – Piazza del Colosseo Rome s great gladiator's arena is the most thrilling of the city s ancient sights. Originally known as the Flavian Amphitheater, the 50,000-seat Colosseum was inaugurated in AD 80 and used to stage spectacular gladiatorial games in front of baying, bloodthirsty crowds.

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Palatino (Palatine Hill) – Via di San Gregorio 30 Sandwiched between the Roman Forum and the Circo Massimo, the Palatino was ancient Rome s most exclusive neighborhood. It was here that Romulus supposedly founded the city in 753 BC and Rome s emperors lived in unabashed luxury.

Highlights include the ruins of the main imperial palace and the beautiful grandstand views over the Roman Forum from the Orti Farnesiani.

Roman Forum – Largo della Salara Vecchia The Roman Forum was ancient Rome s showpiece centre, a grandiose district of marble-clad temples, proud basilicas and vibrant public spaces. Landmark sights include the Arco di Settimia Severo and the nearby Curia, which served as the seat of the ancient Roman senate.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Vatican Museums – Viale Vaticano Founded by Pope Julius II in the early 16th century and enlarged by successive pontiffs, the Vatican Museums contains one of the world s greatest art collections, amassed by the popes over the centuries. Exhibits range from Egyptian mummies and Etruscan bronzes to Old Masters and modern paintings, but the main draws are the spectacular classical statuary and Michelangelo s frescoes in the Sistine Chapel.

RELIGIOUS SIGHTS St Peter’s Basilica – St Peter’s Square In this city of outstanding churches, none can hold a candle to St Peter s Basilica (Basilica di San Pietro), Italy s largest, richest and most spectacular church. A monument to centuries of artistic genius, it contains some spectacular works of art, including three of Italy s most celebrated masterpieces: Michelangelo s Pietà, his breathtaking dome, and Bernini s baldachin (canopy) over the papal altar Sistine Chapel – Viale del Vaticano The Sistine Chapel (Cappella Sistina) is best known for two of the most awe-inspiring acts of individual creativity in the history of the visual arts: Michelangelo s Genesis (Creation) frescoes on the barrel-vaulted ceiling and his Giudizio Universale (Last Judgment) on the end wall.

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ACT I V IT IES ADVENTURE Roma Incontra il Mondo – Villa Ada This fabulous world music festival takes place lakeside from June to July in the breathtaking setting of Villa Ada, with music from everywhere from Japan to Jamaica.

Vespa Tours Scooters are the best means of transport for buzzing around Rome with complete freedom of access and without all the hassles associated with parking and timetables.

E X P L O R AT I O N Holy See Perhaps the Vatican needs no introduction. As its own independent state and the center of the Roman Catholic Church, the Vatican City state - along with the surrounding Italian districts of Borgo, Prati and the area around the Monte Mario is filled with more history and artwork than most cities in the world. If you are going to Rome, an exploration of the Holy See is a definite must.

E N T E R TA I N M E N T Accademia di Santa Cecilia – Viale Pietro de Coubertin 10 Rome s major classical-music organization, the Accademia di Santa Cecilia dates back to the 16th century when it was founded by, among others, the Renaissance composer Palestrina. The academy s program includes a world-class symphonic season featuring superstar guest conductors and festivals dedicated to single composers. The in-house orchestra is directed by London-born Italian Antonio Pappano, who is also musical director of London s Royal Opera House. rome \\ a c tivities

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DAY T RIPS V I A A P P I A A N T I C A C ATA C O M B S The Via Appia Antica, old Appian Way Road, was the major road of the ancient Roman Empire. ItÂ’s now a regional park, Parco Regionale DellÂ’Appia Antica, and there are several catacombs to visit. From Rome, take bus 118 or 218 to get to the catacombs of San Callisto, the largest and most impressive of the catacombs. From there you can walk or bike along the ancient road, lined with tombs and churches. A beautiful place for lunch on Via Appia Antica is the Cecilia Metella Restaurant, especially when it is nice and you can sit on the patio, or pack a picnic. Sunday is the best day to go when much of the Appian Way is closed to traffic.

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TIVOLI In Tivoli, you can see the villa, gardens and fantastic fountains of the Renaissance Villa d Este, built in the 16th century. Then take a short bus ride to the extensive grounds of Hadrian s Villa, created by Emperor Hadrian in the second century and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. East of Rome, Tivoli is accessible by train from the Roma Tiburtina Station or by bus.

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OSTIA LIDO If you re in Rome and want to escape the heat of the city, the closest place to go is Ostia Lido. While it might not be as glamorous as some of the other Italian beaches, it has some nice private beach areas available for day use. If you want to go a little farther, there are good choices both north and south. rom e \\ d ay tr ip s

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fash ion capital o f the wo rl d Milan is Italy s quiet triple threat capital of fashion, finance, and design. Begin at the heart of the city in the Piazza del Duomo; the rest radiates outward in a mosaic of neighborhoods where history, art, and fashion overlap. Walk around the stony Brera neighborhood and peruse the shops of the Fashion Quadrilateral, a literal rhomboid dedicated to the world s best designers. Head to Navigli for a cocktail when the sun is about to set. Wander the Isola neighborhood for homegrown designers and unique boutiques. By night, Milan s marble and modern architecture is incandescent, so between aperitivi, make sure to pause a while and take it all in.

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ACCOMMODAT IONS H OT E L S Eurohotel – Via Sirtori, 24 This large, well-serviced hotel near Porta Venezia offers a huge variety of comfortable, modern rooms and efficient, friendly service. Given its competitive price point it is popular with groups and fills up fast during events and fairs. Book ahead online for the best rates and deals.

NH Fiera – Viale Degli Alberghi Rho The dramatic towers of NH Fiera are within the FieraMilano trade fair. This stylish, modern hotel offers spacious design rooms and free Wi-Fi throughout. Each room includes elegant parquet floors, an LCD TV with satellite channels, and a mini bar. Some rooms provide extra space and a tea/coffee maker.

NH Fiera is a 10-minute walk from the Rho-Fiera Metro Station, with trains to Milan city center. Road and train links are also excellent.

HOSTELS The Monastery Hostel – Via Bertoni, 3 Set in a wing of a Franciscan Friars convent, this dynamic hostel is a 2-minute walk from Milan s Turati Metro Station, in the heart of the fashion district, and just 2 stops from the Cathedral. Rooms and dorms offer free Wi-Fi. Ostello Burigozzo 11 – Via Burigozzo 11 A spartan but spotless hostel decked out with a dash of design brio. Bunks are in single sex dorms each with their own shower; doubles, triples and quads are also available. There s a communal TV room, laundry and large kitchen.

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DI N I NG CAFES & BAKERIES Trattoria del Nuovo Macello – Via Cesare Lombroso 20 A real Milanese will tell you that those thin, battered elephant ears that currently masquerade as cotoletta alla Milanese are a poor imitation of the real deal.

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Giacomo Arengario – Via Guglielmo Marconi 1 The artful decor combines mid-century modern wallpapers, beaux arts brasswork, baroque-style velvet sofas and Asian lacquer finishes for a luxurious, but understated atmosphere.

Top notch bistro fare, including fish platters, truffles and game are served by jacketed waiters. During the day gaze out at the Duomo s spires, and at night enjoy the jewel-like colors of the stained glass windows and the extravagant selection of bottles behind the bar.

R E S TA U R A N T S Pane e Acqua – Via Matteo Bandello 14 Super-stylist Rossana Orlandi has transformed a former corner tabacchi (corner shop) into Milan s most original and intriguing restaurant. Stark oversized clocks and raw concrete walls are softened by terrazzo floors and an ever-changing explosion of seasonal color and texture. Service is both kindly and unusually knowledgeable.

Il Marchesino – Via Filodrammatici 2 Gualtiero Marchesi, Italy s most revered chef, presides over a modern dining room in that other Milanese institution, La Scala. Chairs upholstered in deep crimson evoke the neighboring concert hall, as do musical notes cascading across white china.

The menu is similarly traditional but infused with a creativity.

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SIGHTSEEI NG MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Pinacoteca di Brera – Via Brera 28 Located upstairs from the centuries-old Accademia di Belle Arti, this gallery houses Milan s most impressive collection of old masters, as well as much of the bounty taken from Venice

by Napoleon. Rembrandt, Goya and van Dyck all have a place in the collection, but you re here to see the Italians: Titian, Tintoretto, glorious Veronese, groundbreaking Mantegna, the Bellini brothers and a Caravaggio.

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RELIGIOUS SIGHTS Duomo – Piazza del Duomo A vision in pink Candoglia marble, Milan s cathedral aptly reflects the city s creativity and ambition. Its pearly white facade, adorned with 135 spires and 3200 statues, rises like the filigree of a fairy tale tiara, wowing the crowds with extravagant detail.

The vast interior is no less impressive. Here you can see the largest stained glass windows in Christendom, while below is the early Christian baptistery and crypt, where the remains of the saintly Carlo Borromeo are on display in a beautiful rock crystal casket.

PA L AC E S & M O N U M E N T S Teatro alla Scala – Via Filodrammatici 2 Giuseppe Piermarini s 2800-seat theatre was inaugurated in 1778 with Antonio Salieri s Europa Riconosciuta. It replaced the previous theatre, which burnt down in a fire after a carnival gala. When rehearsals are not in session you can stand in boxes 13, 15 and 18 for a glimpse of the jewel-like interior.

Castello Sforzesco – Piazza Castello Originally a Visconti fortress, this iconic red-brick castle was later home to the mighty Sforza dynasty who ruled Renaissance Milan. The castle s defenses were designed by the multi-talented da Vinci. Today, it shelters seven specialized museums, which gather together intriguing fragments of Milan s cultural and civic history, including Michelangelo s final work, the Rondanini Pietà.

SHOPPING Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II – Piazza Duomo, 20123 The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is one of the world s oldest shopping malls. Housed within a four-story double arcade in central Milan, the Galleria is named after Vittorio Emanuele II, the first king of the Kingdom of Italy. It was designed in 1861 and built by Giuseppe Mengoni between 1865 and 1877.

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ACT I V IT IES R E L A X AT I O N Bulgari Spa – Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7/b This warm, enveloping space in the basement of the Antonio Cittero-designed hotel instills immediate calm. Spa aromatherapy treatments target pressure points and chakras; whether you re a believer or not, there s no doubt they will relax and rejuvenate a frazzled traveler. Make sure to amortize the sky-high prices with a dip in the gorgeous gold-mosaic lined pool or a lounge in the ethereal steam room.

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Parco Sempione Situated behind the Castello Sforzesco, Parco Sempione was a resounding success, and even today Milanese of all ages come to enjoy its winding paths, copses and ornamental ponds. Giò Ponti s spindly, 1933 steel tower provides a fantastic 108m-high viewing platform over the park. Take the lift up at sunset, or at night to watch city lights twinkle.

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A D M I R AT I O N The Last Supper – The Church of Santa Maria della Grazie The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci s arguably the greatest painting of the Renaissance, capturing the dramatic moment at which Jesus reveals one of his disciples will betray him. It s so realistic that you can imagine the shock, amazement and hostility of the religious followers. The work is testament to a troubled history. Paint started peeling away in Renaissance times, when the wall was used for target practice. In the 19th century it was a backdrop to the French invasion and nearly got destroyed in the Second World War. It s a miracle that it has survived. But thanks to a restoration the fresco can now be seen in full color. Make sure that you reserve a timed, 15-minute slot in which to visit the masterpiece. mil an \\ a c tivities

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DAY T RIPS LAKE COMO The towns of Como, on the southwest shore of Lake Como, and Lecco, on the southeast shore, are easily reached by train in 30 minutes to an hour. Como has two stations in town, one served by the national train line and the other by the Ferrovia Nord Milano, a small rail line between Milan and Como. Como is a walled town with a good historic center, lively squares, good restaurants, and a funicular that goes up above Como for hiking trails and beautiful views. If you want to visit other towns on the lake, there are buses and ferries you can catch from both Como and Lecco.

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LAKE GARDA Peschiera del Garda, on the southern shore of Lake Garda, can be reached in a little over an hour from Milan. The station is in walking distance of the town center and the lake. Its small historic center with shops and restaurants is inside 16th century walls built in a pentagon shape. There are small pebble beaches and walks along the lake. Desenzano del Garda, a little closer to Milan, also has a train station. From either town there are ferries and buses to other Lake Garda towns.

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TURIN/TORINO The sight of the 2006 Winter Olympics, Turin, or Torino, is the largest city in the Piedmont region. Turin has Baroque cafes and architecture, arcaded shopping promenades, large squares, and museums including the worldÂ’s third largest Egyptian museum. The Mole Antonelliana is a tall tower that houses the cinema museum and has a lift you can take for views of the city. Trains from Milan take close to two hours. TurinÂ’s Porta Nuova station is in central Turin but some trains only stop at Porta Susa, from where you can take a bus into the city. mil an \\ d ay tr ip s

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PR ACT IC A LIT IES Italy is not a dangerous country for women to travel in. Clearly, as with anywhere in the world, women traveling alone need to take certain precautions and, in some parts of the country, be prepared for more than their fair share of unwanted attention. Eye-to-eye contact is the norm in Italy s daily flirtatious interplay. Eye contact can become outright staring the further south you travel.

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Lone women may find it difficult to remain alone. In many places, local lotharios will try it on with exasperating insistence, which can be flattering or a pain. Foreign women are particular objects of male attention in tourist towns like Florence and more generally in the south. Usually the best response to undesired advances is to ignore them. If that doesn t work, politely tell your interlocutors you re waiting for your marito (husband) or fidanzato (boyfriend) and, if necessary, walk away. Avoid becoming aggressive as this may result in an unpleasant confrontation. If all else fails, approach the nearest member of the police.

Watch out for men with wandering hands on crowded buses. Either keep your back to the wall or make a loud fuss if someone starts fondling your behind. A loud Che schifo! (How disgusting!) will usually do the trick. If a more serious incident occurs, report it to the police, who are then required to press charges.

Women traveling alone should use their common sense. Avoid walking alone in dark streets, and look for hotels that are central (unsafe areas are noted in this book). Women should avoid hitchhiking alone.

Use some dress sense, too. Skimpy beachwear is not a good idea in the south (except perhaps at the beach), and especially in more conservative areas, such as the smaller towns.

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