Lark Magazine

#ONALARK

S a n t o r i n i b y t h e S e a Tr a v e l i n g B a v a r i a ' s B e e r Tr a i l L e a r n i n g t h e Secret of Parisian Boulanderies G re a t B r i t a i n ' s B e s t S u r f S p o t s Hostel Behavior Denmark's Modern Cathedral Destinations for Quiet Adventures

lark.com

MAGAZINE

UNMASKING C A R I N VA L E

winter 2014 \\ issue no. 7

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

1

2

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

CREDITS

1 7 65 S ta te S t re e t S ui te N o. 3 3 4 S a nta B a r b a ra , CA 93 1 1 7 p h on e \ \ 8 0 5 .67 8 .5 4 92 fa x \ \ 8 0 5 .993 .0 7 3 4

E D I T O R I A L EDITOR IN CHIEF Erin Murphy, DEPUTY EDITOR Sara Fawcett, LOCATION EDITOR Julie Chandler, FEATURES EDITOR Ellen Wirry, DEPARTMENTAL EDITOR Connie Kempffer

P U B L I S H I N G ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR OF PUBLISHING Kelsey Moss, SUB-EDITOR Mira Samara, STAFF WRITER Madeleine Carrier, PUBLISHING EDITOR Kassandra Fillmore, PUBLISHER Julia Chen

A D M I N I S T R A T I O N LOCATION EXECUTIVE Erin Morra, ADVERTISING MANAGER Kiera Knightly, CHAIRMAN Emma Stone, DEPUTY CHAIRMAN Andrew Garfield, CEO Georgia LaLonde

P R O D U C T I O N PRODUCTION EDITOR Courtney Collins, ACTING PRODUCTION EDITOR Jovanna Pieri, ART DIRECTOR Elena Lamb, ADVERTISMENT SERVICES COORDINATOR Kathryn Nunneley

E X T E R N A L C O N T R I B U T O R S COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER Erin Appling, SUBSCRIPTIONS DIRECTOR Jennifer Lawrence, GUEST WRITERS Kendra Strey, Katie Broome, Janelle Davis

D E S I G N CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stefani Wilkens, ASSITANT CREATIVE DIRECTOR Caroline Collins, GRAPHIC DESIGNER Lexa Keenan, PHOTOGRAPHERS Steve Wilkens, Nico Trinkhaus, Maggie Smith

ALL RIGHTS All rights regarding the Lark Magazine are reserved. Reproduction of any part of Lark Magazine and/or associated materials without the written permission of Lark Travel Company is prohibited. While Lark Travel Company receives private funding, the views expressed in Lark Magazine do not necessarily reflect the policy of our offices and no endorsement should be inferred. All views and comments expressed in Lark publications are solely the opinions of the writers and not necessarily the opinions of Lark Travel Company or it's contributors.

l ar k .co m in fo r m ati o n @ lar k .co m Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

3

COVER STORY

4

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

6 EDITOR'S NOTE 9 CONTRIBUTORS 10 CONVERSATIONS 13 ADVICE 14 SIGHTED 16 DESTINATIONS 46 BON VOYAGE

FE AT UR ES 22 UNMASKING CARNEVALE

by Kendra Strey The rebirth of an ancient Venetian masquerade celebration.

31 PARISIAN PATISSERIES

by Sam Fromartz Inside the specialty shops that make France's pastries so delicious.

36 HOLY HOPS photogr aphy by Molly Ar nold

by Briana McKanna How beer and the Bible cohabitate in Bavaria's mountain monasteries.

51 EUROPE'S ENIGMA

by Katherine LaGrave Unraveling the mysteries of Budapest.

Skiing the Dolomites is a popular winter activity in Italy.

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

5

p ho t o grap hy by Jan e A lbo t t

E D I TO R ' S N OT E

Never without her camera, Mikki set out on an Icelandic adventure to discover her roots.

THE JOY OF EXPLORATION No matter how often I travel or how many trips I make in any given year, I look forward to each and every journey with a sense of anticipation and, yes, almost juvenile excitement. Even when returning to a familiar destination, I always find there's something new to discover — a restaurant that wasn't there before, a hidden cove with sandy beach that I'd overlooked, or a well-known attraction that I simply hadn't had time to take in.

6

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

E D I TO R ' S N OT E

Going back even further in time, I recall hunting and fishing trips with my parents; weeks and weekends spent dodging mosquitoes and hippopotami in equal measure.

Elephants, lions, crocodiles, snakes they were all a part of my life as a child, as were the often long distances traveled and long periods spent patiently stalking prey.

Those hours were never completely idle, though the African bush was alive with life and interest, if you just let yourself notice it!

My husband, Gary, and I have done our best to pass on our love of travel to our two kids. We've pulled them out of school to accompany us on trips overseas, and they still talk about things they experienced on those trips far more often than they discuss the history paper they studied the week after their return. Some of their memories go way back to trips we undertook during their toddler years. I firmly believe that travel is a great educator, whether it's around your own country or discovering new cultures and beliefs in far flung locations. So long as one's mind is open and one's spirit is alive, there is just so much out there to take in and to absorb things to see, smell, taste, feel and hear.

I can remember traveling enormous distances as a child in Africa, and I honestly don't recall ever asking the proverbial are we there yet? that so many parents seem to dread. With family and friends spread fairly diversely throughout southern Africa, trips like a Cape Town to Johannesburg jaunt for a weekend wedding were fairly common practice some 1500km in either direction.

We'd leave right after work on a Friday and be back at our desks first thing Monday.

Each time I begin my packing ritual, butterflies set in.

These are not butterflies of anxiety or fear; these are the excited and happy breed, eagerly anticipating a whole new adventure. As I took the suitcase down yesterday, I felt the feint stirrings of my friendly butterflies they knew a trip was imminent! These are some of my earliest and most endearing travel memories.

There is so much of life that can only be experienced by traveling abroad. Europe alone contains enough opportunities for adventure to last a lifetime. If you're ever in need of a dose of excitement, or butterflies in your stomach, my suggestion is that you pack your bags and go somewhere new. You never know what life has in store.

As you read through this issue of Lark Magazine, I hope we manage to awaken a tiny cluster of butterflies somewhere deep within you and that you let them have full reign as you plan your next venture around our incredible part of the world.

Happy travels!

mikki senkarik managing editor

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

7

8

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

CONTRIBUTORS

photography by Diana Lane

MEET OU R GUEST W R I T ERS

KATIE BROOME first discovered her passion for travel in college while road-tripping across her home country of England to compete in rowing regattas. Since then, she's channeled that passion into writing about fun, unexpected and photo-worthy things to see and do in places like St. Petersburg, Paris and Milan, especially when there are bistros or artsy coffee shops involved. Some of her favorite travel memories include boating on the Thames, hiking the Dolomites with her brother, and having a run-in with the supernatural on the cobblestone streets of Messinia, Greece.

KENDRA STREY loves feasting on authentic local cuisines during her travels to her territories, especially since she lives in ultra health-conscious Southern California. Kendra's favorite travel destinations involve the water, whether river cruising in Germany; kiteboarding off the Amalfi Coast; or hanging with the family on the beaches of Croatia.

JANELLE DAVIS doesn't take a trip without her camera. Being paid to travel and write works very well with her insatiable curiosity, eagerness to explore new things and photography. A lover of boots and books, Janelle is sure her fondness for wine and sushi works well with travel too. Of her forays into the world, her favorite ventures include Spain, Greece, Vatican City, Poland and Turkey. When she's not expanding her knowledge of European destinations, you'll probably find her working on her photography, writing or painting.

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

9

C O N V E R S AT I O N S

WH AT YOU H AD TO SAY Dear Lark, Thank you so much for your article regarding cruise planning. Given all the recent catastrophes occuring on cruise ships, it was nice to get a concise, to the point description of what to take into consideration when choosing a cruise line. I found the article to be both informative and entertaining, and intend to use your travel planning services in order to book my next Mediteranian cruise.

Thank you for always providing the best and most current information regarding European travel. You make all my travel experiences more than worthwhile. Yay Lark!

— Chelsea Dunst, Athens, AL

Dear Lark Magazine, Your article East Meets West in Istanbul was extremely insightful. It was refreshing to hear such a positive take on the cultural differences apparent in Turkey. Also, the advice you gave was very helpful. Thanks!

Dear Gayle, Thank you for always filling Lark Magazine with only the best content. Other travel journals just don't compare. Your features are always beautiful and interesting, while your departments are perpetually informative. I always send your magazine as holiday gifts, and all my friends love what you do. Keep up the good work! Also, your article on walking the Seine river was by far the most gorgeous thing I've ever seen!

— Gina Rivers, Dallas, TX

10

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

photog raph y by H arper McKenzie

— Justine LaLonde, Roswell, GA

In our last issue we experienced the leaves along the Seine as their colors changed.

Would you like to submit a comment on our content? We would love to hear from you! Send your comments to: conversations@lark.com

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

11

12

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

ADVICE

HOSTEL BEHAVIOR

written by Laura Stone

photography by Jean Hughes

WHILE TRAVELING ON A BUDGET, BALANCING THE LINE BETWEEN affordable accommodation and keeping your sanity in a bunkroom with 13 other people is something best pondered before you're actually bunking with those 13 people. This is something I know and know well, but seemingly often forget once the clamor and smells! emanating from all corners of my hostel have faded in the fresh air and hope that often accompanies new travel plans.

Hello, new hostel: perhaps you'll be sightly different?

The common areas of Reykjavik's KEX hostel.

Last week, I endeavored into a world of hostels once again. I was visiting Reykjavik, an expensive city by most standards, and decided to save money by night so that I could spend it by day sampling the city's many hybrid coffee houses/bars/cafes, and generally just trying to discover how Ice-

landers remain so effortlessly chic still no clue. When booking a bunk in a 14-bed mixed room, I ran through my list of justifications: No matter how I slept or what transpired after I turned in for bed, I was saving money. I wouldn't be spending so much time there, anyway, right? My roommates wouldn't be too loud.

Let me stop here, dear readers, and say that if hostels were The Hunger Games, the odds would never be in your favor. In this case of hostel Russian roulette in Reykjavik, they certainly weren't in mine.

It's math, really, and the odds only increase with your number of bunkmates. Think of 13 people you know and ask yourself if any of them snore loudly, need to get up in the middle of the night to use the bathroom, like to stay out late, or have trouble reading social cues in order to know what's generally acceptable and what isn t. Yes, yes, yes and yes. We all do, because some of these things are genetic and others can't be helped.

Others can, and those are the kinds that can often make staying at a hostel a trying experience. But that's not really the point.

The long and short of the point at hand is that hostels are a wonderful beast. Unlike the flip-of-the-coin luck with bunkmates and bathrooms, there are certain things that are most often true: Hostels are a foolproof way to meet fellow travelers, allies, and lifelong friends. As a cultural institution, they have enabled travelers to travel affordably, freely and comfortably all around the world.

They're becoming safer, more common and even more affordable. Next time I suggest you try one out.

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

13

SIGHTED

FI N DI NG CHRIST I N DEN M A RK

written by Angela DelRey

photogr aphy by Finn Beales

COPENHAGEN IS A THRIVING METhe cathedral on the of RederiksTROPOLIS AND THE MAIN EVENT IN grounds borg is astoundingly Denmark. But a trip here isn't commodern for it's 17th century beginnings. plete without a swing through the the white brick and cute Danish countryside. In under intensely sweeping vertical lines make the two hours, you can time-travel from experience of stepping modern Copenhagen to a 10th-centu- into the place of worry Viking ship, 17th-century castle, or ship truely heavenly.

Clockwise from right: 19th-century fairy tale.

1 – the narthex is decWhile today's Denmark is small, orated with hanging vessels, 2 – the view of roughly twice the size of Massachuthe large organ that setts, at one time the Danish empire accompanies services, included all of Scandinavia and 3 – the doors create a passage through stretched into Germany. A remindtime and space into a er of all that power is the stunning new plane of existence, 4 – the walk down the Frederiksborg Castle, floating seaisle is as truely both renely on an island in the middle of a graceful and peaceful.

14

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

SIGHTED

lake. An hour north of Copenhagen, Frederiksborg is considered by many to be the grandest castle in Scandinavia the Danish Versailles.

Built in the early 1600s, Frederiksborg was the castle of Christian IV, Denmark's greatest king. Today it houses the Museum of National History, filled with countless musty paintings that create a fascinating scrapbook of Danish history from 1500 until today.

Frederiksborg still gives visitors a feel for what it was like in its heyday.

The suitably regal entry is ringed by a moat designed more for swans than defense. The royal apartments exude royal opulence. The Great Hall is where Christian IV threw lavish parties, with the orchestra playing from their perch above.

If you prefer Rauschenberg to royalty, a trip to the Louisiana is a must.

About 30 minutes north of Copenhagen, Scandinavia's most-raved-about modern-art museum is a holistic place that masterfully mixes art, architecture, and landscape. A delightful sculpture garden sprawls through the grounds, downhill toward the sea. Inside, the ever-changing collection displays post-1945 art, including Picassos, Warhols, and Hockneys. A crowd favorite is The Big Thumb, a six-foot-tall bronze thumb by the French sculptor César.

While Copenhagen is Denmark's political and cultural capital, its historic capital is located about 20 miles to the west in the town of Roskilde.

Eight hundred years ago, this was the seat of Denmark's royalty and its center of power. Today, the town is famous for hosting northern Europe's biggest rock festival each July, featuring such acts as U2 and Björk.

But long before Coldplay came to play, Christians came to pray. Roskilde's centerpiece is its imposing 12th-century, twin-spired cathedral.

This stately old church, with fine wood carvings and a great 16th-century organ, is the resting place of 38 kings and queens.

After the Reformation gutted the church of its saints and Marys, it left a blank slate for Danish royals to fill with their tombs. The oldest tomb, from 1397, holds Queen Margrethe I, whose strong leadership and clever negotiating helped unite the three Nordic Kingdoms. Today, a spot has been restored for its next resident the current queen, Margrethe II, who teamed up with an artist to design her own tomb.

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

15

D E S T I N AT I O N S

DEST I NAT IONS FOR QUIET A DV EN T URERS written by Lena Jacobs

G AL L OWAY, S CO TLAND towns dedicated to food, books and beautiful art.

Dumfries, known as “the queen of the south” is the capital of Dumfries & Galloway. Make a stop at this historic market town, famed for its connections with Scotland's famous poet, Robert Burns. Situated on the wide banks of the River Nith, this lively town is only a short distance inland from the Solway Firth.

Where else can you fish for salmon right in the town centre, choose between four golf courses, find out about the life of Robert Burns, and visit the amazing Camera Obscura, one of only three working in Britain?

Heading out west, just 8 miles along the Solway Coast Heritage Trail lies the pretty conservation

village of New Abbey. The imposing Sweetheart Abbey is one of the highlight attractions in the region.

The village is also home to a saw mill, two hotels, village shop and a coffee shop which offers excellent scones and delightful refreshments.

Situated on the banks of the River Dee and close to the Solway coast, the charming town of Kirkcudbright boasts an attractive town centre, with medieval, Georgian and Victorian buildings, along with a fine harbour overlooked by the 16th century MacLellan's Castle.

Also known as the Artists' Town, Kirkcudbright boasts connections with the Glasgow Boys and is a magnet for art lovers, with a range of galleries and studios to explore.

photog ra phy by Robbi e Lawrence

FROM STREAMS TO SUMMITS AND FORESTS TO SHORES, THE LAND IN Dumfries & Galloway is naturally inspiring, influencing the region's history, culture and everyday life.

Discover how this region's beautiful scenery has filled artists and writers with the passion to create great works, and see how it is the perfect backdrop for exciting activities and an abundance of rare wildlife.

Discover the history and beauty of Dumfries & Galloway and you'll find lush green forests and sandy shores which have inspired great men and women. Visit the castles and historic spots to learn more of days gone by, while taking in the breathtaking views. Discover coastal communities, the highest village in Britain and

You're likely to see sheep grazing in their pastures as you drive through Galloway.

16

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

D E S T I N AT I O N S

You won't find any cars in Santorini, but you will find impeccable views.

photogr aphy by Kate H ol stein

SAN TORI N I, G REECE Santorini is essentially what remains after an enormous volcanic eruption that destroyed the earliest settlements on a formerly single island, and created the current geological caldera. A giant central, rectangular lagoon, is surrounded by high, steep cliffs on three sides. The main island slopes downward to the Aegean Sea. On the fourth side, the lagoon is separated from the sea by another much smaller island called Therasia; the lagoon is connected to the sea in two places, in the northwest and southwest. The depth of the caldera makes it possible for all but the largest ships to anchor anywhere in the protected bay. The capital, Fira, clings to the top of the cliff.

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

17

photography by Robbie Lawrence

D E S T I N AT I O N S

Take a walk on the beach and enjoy the calm.

FANO, DEN MARK Fanø is a Danish island that's 16km long and 5km wide, located off the coast of southwestern Denmark. You can reach the island through a ferry from the city of Esbjerg. One of the many charming traits of this island is that its entire western shore is comprised of beaches, and the sea off the northwest end is home to Søren-Jessens-Sand: an impressive sandbank.

Driving to the beach, and taking in the unspoilt, windswept beauty is the best way to enjoy the day here. If you want something more active, take a walk along the winding coastal trails.

The gravel paths may be a rough walk, but the views are worth it.

18

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

D E S T I N AT I O N S

Get ready for some of the most idyllic hiking you've ever immagined. Wonderful at any time of year the Tuscan mountains are especially picturesque in winter when the mountains seem to float about the fog.

ph otogra phy by Kate H olstei n

BAG N I DI LUC C A, ITALY. Prato Fiorito is the largest of the mountains surrounding the town of Bagni di Lucca, (Tuscany, Italy) At 1297m it's not particularly high as mountains go, even for a Tuscan mountain, but it's views are incredible. One of those beautiful crisp clear winters days, with bright sunshine, is perfect for a walk.

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

19

D E S T I N AT I O N S

This beautiful seaside town is a perfect winter escape if you find yourself dreaming of the sea.

The old crofting county of Sutherland is situated in the far northern Highlands of Scotland. It is bordered to the south by the county of Rossshire and to the north-east by the county of Caithness. With a population of just over 13,000 people living in an area covering 2,300 square miles Sutherland is one of the remotest and sparsely populated, yet beautiful, parts of Scotland. It was the early Viking settlers who came to Caithness that named everything to the south “The Southlands” which is how Sutherland came by its name.

However, despite its location, Sutherland has modern travel and communications connections with the rest of the country. The main A9 trunk road links Sutherland to Inverness and the south, as does the railway line. There are also airports within easy reach at Inverness and Wick. Sutherland is easy to get to and yet once you are here you feel that you are a million miles away from the rest of the world.

20

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

photogr aphy by Robbi e Lawrenc e

SUTHERLAND, SCOTLAND

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

21

U N M A S K I N G C A R N E VA L E

Unmasking Carnevale written by Kendra Strey with photography by Candice Stayworth

Experience the intricate costumes, mysterious personas, and ancient traditions of the Venetian masquerade.

22

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

U N M A S K I N G C A R N E VA L E

Lar Lar k kMM agag azaz ini en e\ \ Wi Win n ter 2 015

23 23

U N M A S K I N G C A R N E VA L E

24

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

U N M A S K I N G C A R N E VA L E

M

asks of all shapes and sizes, colors and materials fill the streets of Venice.

It is impossible to travel anywhere in the city without being constantly bombarded with shops and stands selling every possible style of these iconic adornments. Throughout history Venice has been linked to Carnevale, one of the oldest and most internationally recognized festivals in the world. The Carnevale mask is a very befitting symbol for the mysterious city of Venice, which acquires a unique persona for each traveler: Venice the Serene, Venice the Past and Venice the Passionate. This past winter, I embarked on a journey to Italy in order to investigate the factors that have allowed Carnevale to survive and flourish throughout the centuries and explore the mindsets of the average tourists that find the Venetian Carnevale so attractive. What I discovered went much further than the opulent masked balls of lore to a much deeper Carnevale starting with its early origin all the way to present day and a stark contrast between Carnevale then and today.

The three most popular types of masks during Carnevale were the bauta, moretta and volto. The bauta, typically worn by men, was the most popular Carnevale mask because of its great ability to conceal the entire face. The moretta was a popular women's mask worn all year because of its ability to highlight the

women's best features. This mask was held up by mouthpiece, which did not allow the woman to speak while wearing the mask. This silence further added to the mystery of the mask-wearer. Finally, the volto, translated from Italian meaning face , looked like a face with no unique features. This type of mask was very popular with the common people and later was typically referred to as the citizen's mask.

The high point in Venice's social calendar, Carnevale is a masked extravaganza, and your chance to spend 12 days looking like the Phantom of the Opera. The world's best-known baroque fancy-dress party, it's as extravagant as Rio's Carnaval is riotous, celebrating the approach of spring with refined gusto.

Venetians have been celebrating Carnevale since at least the 15th century. In those days private clubs organised masked balls, and popular entertainment included such gentle fun as bull-baiting and firing live dogs from cannons. By the 18th century Venice was in the grip of hedonism, and the licentious goings-on of Carnevale lasted two months. The event fell into decline after the city was seized by Napoleon in 1797, and was abandoned when Mussolini banned the wearing of masks. It was revived in 1979, once again staking its place among the world's finest festivals.

The festivities begin on Friday afternoon

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

25

U N M A S K I N G C A R N E VA L E

26

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

U N M A S K I N G C A R N E VA L E

with La Festa delle Maria, a procession through the city.

This is a precursor to the official opening on Saturday, when a masked procession leaves Piazza San Marco around 4pm and circulates through the streets. The next day there are jousts and other mock-military tournaments.

The following Friday evening sees the festival's high point, the Gran Ballo delle Maschere, or Doge's Ball, which takes place in different locations each year usually a suitably grand palace is chosen for the event. Anyone with proper costume and mask who is able to dance the quadrilles and other steps of a few centuries ago may join in.

During the ancient carnevale, consisting from the 13th century to the 18th century, the iconic symbol of Carnevale, the mask, was not strictly worn during the usual twoweek period of Carnevale.

The use of the mask as a social accessory preceded the festivities of Carnevale by almost three decades. Masks were noted to have been worn in Venice as early as 1268 while the first official Carnevale celebration took place in 1296 when it was decreed that the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday become a public holiday. Carnevale was a time of constant parties, decadence and passion. This was the time of infinite possibilities and equality among all of the participants.

In a city where class distinction played an integral role in society, the use of masks allowed social lines to blur. No longer could the aristocracy be recognized over common people while wearing the mask and cloak.

During Carnevale, people would be greeted as Mr. or Mrs. Mask, and no other distinctions were more important than partaking in the decadent festivities. In his essay Frames of Comic Freedom, Umberto Eco writes, Carnevale is revolution (or revolution is carnevale): kings are decapitated (that is, lowered, made inferior) and the crowd is crowned.

The mask exuded a new freedom to take an alter ego, an opportunity to be someone different and more exciting than one's daily self. In his memoirs, The History of my Life, Casanova writes, The theatres being open at that time I put on a mask to go out, Casanova, the notorious Venetian playboy of the 18th century, pushed the limits by utilizing the mask outside of Carnevale, thus retaining

the freedom of anonymity into his daily life. This quote is greatly in dialogue with the mindset of the Venetians. The Venetians would utilize the Canivale mask all year round, and any social event could involve masks. The Venetians were intoxicated by the idea of being anonymous and lavished themselves in this luxury frequently.

People soon started to take advantage of the anonymity and freedom that came with wearing a mask and gambling and promiscuity became more prevalent. Women began to wear more revealing clothes while adorning the mask, playing into the indulging fantasies of the Carnevale mindset. In Frames of Comic Freedom, Umberto Eco writes, By assuming a mask, everyone can behave like the animal, like characteristics of comedy.

Venice's morality was headed in a downward spiral, and soon the city became recognized as a libertine haven for decadent pleasures. Because masks were being used not simply during Carnevale, the city was in trouble of facing moral decay. To try to save the city from this moral decay, laws were put into place banning masks from certain areas, such churches and opera houses. However these small limitations did little to control the rowdy mask-wearers longing for pleasure. Finally, Carnevale was officially banned during the Austrian occupation of Venice and did not return for more than two hundred years.

In 1797 after the Austrian acquisition of Venice, Carnevale ceased to exist and stayed in hibernation for almost two hundred years. Carnevale emerged again in 1979 due to the desire by local parents to have safer parties for their teenagers to attend. This turnout was soon overshadowed by the following carnevale which is fondly remembered by Venetians as a truly local carnevale, burdened with few tourists. Without the festive parties and extravagant costumes to amaze travelers, it seemed that few tourists were interested in the low-key Carnevale that took place that year. The joyous Venetians celebrated without the costumes and extravagance, simply remembering the true reason for Carnevale: one last hurrah before submitting yourself to 40 days of self control during Lent.

By the early 80's, Venetians played a passive role in Carnevale, as the festivities became monopolized by tourists.

Carnevale is

the revolution:

kings are decapitated & crowds are crowned.

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

27

U N M A S K I N G C A R N E VA L E

This trend was a rebirth of the 18th century Carnevale, the pinnacle of Carnevale glamour, when hordes of tourists traveled to Venice to partake in the festivities. In the present day, the amount of tourists that come to Venice during Carnevale is astonishing and makes more of an impact than ever due to dwindling population of Venice, with only 60,000 local residents. At the height of Carnevale (Saturday and Sunday), approximately 120,000 people occupy the city. In the essay Transformations of Travel and Theory, Rojeck and Urry write, “The closer that life in the tourist resort comes to resemble the pure play form, the more will tourists flock to visit.” Venice is occupied by tourists throughout the entire year, but during Carnevale those numbers grow exponentially. Tourists flock to Venice to lose themselves in the outlandish festivities of Carnevale and escape their ordinary lives.

As suggested earlier, Carnevale did not last throughout the 18th century because it lacked the restrictions of taking place in a set place and time. Because masks could be worn throughout the year, people took advantage of the freedom and the city became a hot bed for immortality. This

28

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

By a ssumin g a an animal .

U N M A S K I N G C A R N E VA L E

is the main difference between present-day Carnevale and ancient carnevale- the use of a transcribed place and time.

Eco writes, “Carnevale, in order to be enjoyed, requires that rules and rituals be parodied, and that these rules and rituals already be recognized and respected. One must know to what degree certain behaviors are forbidden, and must feel the majesty of the forbidding norm, to appreciate their transgression. Without a valid law to break, Carnevale is impossible.” Travelers that come to Venice are fully aware of the moral and ethical laws that they abide by everyday.

Many participants of Carnevale do not wear the mask because their actions do not require complete anonymity.

Although Carnevale is now officially set in a specific time period, Venice has in many ways transformed into a Canivale spectacular itself. The predominant tourism industry and influx of tourists has created a fantasy land, more appealing than normal life. The tourists traveling to Venice today does not physically wear the mask all year round, but a metaphorical mask is put on the moment they set foot on foreign soil. Venice is in itself a Carnevale all year long because it serves as an escape from the everyday world and a chance to have adventures and escapades reserved only for vacation. The tourism industry in Venice feeds the fire for the incredible displays at Carnevale.

Although the 18th Century was economically concerned with tourist money coming in for Carnevale, the demand for tourists to attend Carnevale has escalated during modern times. Countless websites are designed for tourists seeking an authentic Carnevale experience for any price range.

From 250 to a staggering 1200 euros, visitors can attend Venetian balls reminiscent of the 18th century and dress in elaborate costumes and masks. During Ancient Carnevale, travelers came to partake in festivities alongside the true Venetians. However, today's Carnevale consists of mostly tourists while Venetians take part in the organization of tourist activities.

The Carnevale of today is very different from the past.

Modern day Carnevale caters to the tourists, while the Ancient Carnevale was still comprised mainly of Venetians. I have learned about the rich history of Carnevale and gained a deep look into the world famous Venetian festival that so strongly characterizes Venice as a place of escape, adventure and passion.

ma sk , one i s f r ee to behave like

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

29

TIME TO RISE

30

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

TIME TO RISE

Time to Rise

learning the secret of parisian boulangeries written by Sam Fromartz with photography by Lauren Nikrooz In Paris, the 9th arrondissement is popular, hip even, dotted with wine shops, boutiques, and boulangeries, but still has the close-knit feel of a residential neighborhood.

The streets are lined with old apartment buildings that seem to lean onto the sidewalks. Inside intimate bistros on these quiet, narrow lanes, maĂŽtre d's chat with locals as they arrive. One Sunday afternoon last winter, when I visited, the streets were crowded with couples and families out for a leisurely stroll. By 3 a.m. the next day, however, Rue des Martyrs, a main artery in the district, was empty, the stores dark except for a slit of light coming out of the side entrance of the Boulangerie Arnaud Delmontel. Everyone was still asleep. Everyone, that is, except for the bakers whose ranks I was about to join.

Over the centuries, how many bakers have walked Paris's dark avenues at night, heading to the fournils baking rooms to provide the city's daily bread? In the 18th and

19th centuries, les geindres (the groaners) began before midnight, each laboring over hundreds of pounds of dough that they kneaded by hand and baked in basement wood-fired ovens. The poorest slept by the hearth, inhaling flour and often suffering from tuberculosis. Yet many did their jobs superbly, faithful to the demanding task of coaxing bread out of levain, or sourdough — a process that took days. As I walked toward the bakery that morning, I felt as if I were following in the footsteps of wandering ghosts.

As an avid baker with a decade of experience slapping around dough, I had come to Paris to learn how to make a baguette. I wanted one with a crisp crust, an uneven bubbly interior, and a distinctive flavor that would make my friends at home ooh and aah. I figured Arnaud Delmontel was the one to teach me: A master baker, he had won the award for best baguette in Paris in 2007.

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

31

TIME TO RISE

knocked out another two dozen or so hearty loaves leavened with stiff, mildly acidic levain and a pinch of yeast: big round boules with sesame seeds and flaxseeds, fig and walnut whole wheat breads, and cheese breads.

Chardon guided me slowly in shaping the loaves, stretching the dough across the counter with my palm and nimbly tucking the sides of the dough under with my fingers. After several tries, I picked up the technique, and when the dough was ready, we moved it into the refrigerator for a daylong rise. I worked in slow motion compared with Chardon, who was like a machine that never stopped moving and never took a break.

When I asked Chardon later that morning how he knew a sheaf of rising baguettes on a couche was done, he pointed to his eyes: It came down to a decade of observing. I studied a batch of loaves, poked the skin to feel the tension, and asked, Finis? I thought they were. He peered at them closely and replied, Cinq minutes. So we waited five minutes for the dough to relax, then placed the baguettes carefully onto a cloth-lined conveyer belt. I had the honor of making the five swift signature slashes on top of the loaves with the lame (a curved razor) and slid them into the patiently waiting 500°F oven.

We did these tasks repeatedly that first morning shaping, rising, slashing, and baking perhaps 200 loaves, then mixing more dough for the following day. By 7 a.m. I still hadn't had a cup of coffee. So Chardon dashed across the street and returned with a couple of cafés, which we sipped with hot croissants the pastry chefs had just pulled out of the oven downstairs. Now the latest batch of baguettes was baked: darkly spotted, crisp, and well caramelized here and there. When we removed them, the crusts crackled as they met the cooler air outside the oven. Ils chantent, Chardon said they're singing.

The baguette wasn't always so melodic. Steven Kaplan, the world's preeminent scholar of French bread, has made this clear in numerous articles, books, and television appearances in France, where he's culinary royalty. A Brooklyn-born bread lover weaned on Jewish corn rye, he's studied this arcane field for four decades from his post at Cornell University's history department. Now, though, he lives in Paris, where he critiques bread and writes scholarly tomes.

I met him one morning at a café in Montparnasse. I wanted to find out why French bread had gone downhill

As I walked toward the bakery that morning, I felt as if I were following in the footsteps of ghosts.

I also wanted to investigate a cultural question: Why had bread, which held a commanding place at the French table, crumbled into mediocrity in the decades following World War II? By the 1980s, it was an open secret in the baking trade that truly great French bread was a rarity, as speed and efficiency increasingly trumped the slow fermentation necessary for an outstanding loaf.

In 1987 a cultural critic writing in the French newsmagazine Le Nouvel Observateur proclaimed that the baguette had become horribly disgusting. It was bloated, hollow, dead white, he said. Soggy or else stiff. Its crusts come off in sheets like diseased skin. Renowned French baking professor Raymond Calvel mused that the best baguette might soon be made in Tokyo. What had brought this on?

And how was quality bread revived in the 1990s? The answers to these questions lay in Paris, which is what brought me to the door of Boulangerie Arnaud Delmontel at three that morning last February.

When I arrived, head baker Thomas Chardon opened the door to the fournil and said, Salut. A wiry, energetic man of 26, he was covered in flour, his once-blue fleece now a snowy white. Pop music blared from a portable radio, and Chardon literally slid across the flour-specked floor to place a batch of baguettes on a couche, a linen cloth that supports the shape of the loaves as they undergo a final hour-long rise before baking. Heat radiated from the deck oven in the otherwise chilly room, and the toasty, faintly hazelnut-like aroma of baking bread filled the air.

I put my things away on a shelf and, using my pidgin French and lots of hand signals, started to assist Chardon. He motioned me over to a tub of bubbly, glutinous dough that he had just pulled out of a refrigerator. It had a sweet and faintly grassy aroma the result of the luxurious 24-hour fermentation required for Delmontel's signature baguette renaissance. We poured the mass into a mechanical divider that sliced it into small bricks. After a rest, we dropped the bricks into a shaper to form the baguettes. We rolled and stretched these preformed loaves and tucked them into the linen couche for the final rise before they went into the massive industrial oven.

Next, we headed down a narrow stairwell into a tight basement kitchen where a half-dozen pâtissiers were busy making pastries and cakes. We slipped past them into a back room not much bigger than a closet and

32

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

TIME TO RISE

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

33

TIME TO RISE

34

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

TIME TO RISE

in the decades following World War II. In his 2006 book the best techniques. After his stint at the mill, Delmontel Good Bread Is Back, Kaplan offered an analysis of how perfected his baguette renaissance to this day made and why French artisans lost their way before starting to with Viron's Type 55 flour. In 1999, he opened his first recover the true glory of French bread in the early 1990s. bakery, the one on Rue des Martyrs.

For years I had watched the sensorial quality of One day at the bakery, during a brief lull I noticed a French bread palpably deteriorate, he told me. The recipe taped to the wall: Delmontel's formula for making decline first set in, he said, when bakers switched from several hundred baguettes. Using the same ratio of water, levain to commercial yeast in order to shorten the salt, flour, and yeast, I calculated the quantities necesbread-making process. Yeast could work as an acceptable sary to make three baguettes and showed my figures to substitute for levain, but instead of relying on minute Chardon. Oui? he said. Un test, I replied. amounts of yeast and letting the dough ferment over 24 I weighed out the small batch of ingredients and then, hours as Delmontel does with his baguettes bakers to Chardon's surprise, I began kneading the dough by added more yeast and cut the rise period to as little as hand. I haven't done that since baking school, he said. one hour, suppressing the first fermentation that is the The French flour was noticeably less absorbent than source of all taste, Kaplan said. the American flours I was used to, owing to the fact that The situation worsened in the 1950s, when bakers French flour has less protein than American flour. When started using intensive kneading machines that satisthe shaggy dough developed into a more solid mass, I fied consumer desire for an ever-whiter crumb. They showed it to Chardon, who signaled to keep kneadstarted sprinkling in additives such as vitamin C to spike ing. After a few more minutes, I let the dough sit, then fermentation, and heaps of salt to mask the absence of kneaded again before each of three 20-minute rest periflavor. In short, while pursuing the promises of moderni- ods. I put the dough in the refrigerator for a 24-hour rise, ty efficiency, speed, and whiter bread what French and told Delmontel about my little experiment when he bakers lost was the one indispensable ingredient: time. walked into the fournil. The next morning, I waited for For me, bread was a crucial dimension of what the another free moment to take out the dough, which had French proudly call their cultural exception,' or nationrisen nicely and was filled with bubbles. I shaped the al identity, said Kaplan. They did not seem to be aware baguettes by hand, let them rise once more, then baked that they were putting it in grave peril. By the 1980s, them in the huge oven. They sprang up nicely, and when the French ate less and less bread. Boulangeries folded; we removed them with the long wooden peel (a spatula), those that remained competed with supermarkets, which I saw they had a deep golden-brown color, and the slashbaked frozen baguettes and sold them as loss leaders. Ka- es were well defined. Once the loaves cooled, I picked plan was among a small group of critics and bakers who one out and took it upstairs to the chef. fought this trend through newspaper editorials, televi Le test, I announced, entering Delmontel's office. He sion interviews, and, of course, superior bread. Perhaps looked amused as I gave him the loaf. Nice slashes, he the most visible was Lionel Poilâne, who baked celebratsaid. Good color. May I cut it open? Of course, I noded loaves in one of the last remaining wood-fired ovens ded. in Paris. He called his sourdough miche a retro-innoHe took a knife and cut the full length of the loaf as vation, because he was resurrecting levain when it had if making a sandwich, then thrust his nose inside to fallen out of use. Once again, time was the key ingredient breathe in the aroma. Ah, good smell, he said. Looking for boulangers trying to restore bread to its former glory. at the uneven air pockets in the crumb, he smiled. I Delmontel, now 41, began his career in Paris just as didn't know my formula could be done on such a small this movement was percolating. Trained as a cook and scale, he said. Then he took a bite. pastry chef, he initially looked down on breadmaking.

Ah, c'est bien! he concluded. A French baker had told But once Delmontel came to the States in the mid-1990s me I made decent bread. What else did I need? In my to run the pastry department at a new Whole Foods immense excitement I practically flew out of the office Market in Madison, Wisconsin, his view of bread baking to tell Chardon the good news. changed. They were doing all these wonderful loaves, Back home in Washington, I called Delmontel one day with sourdough and whole grains, he told me, and I to complain that the flour I used wasn't as good as his realized there was more to it than just flour and water. and that the bread didn't taste the same. Look, whether When he returned to France and began working for a it's the same flour I use is not important, he scolded. boulangerie, he visited a test kitchen run by a small mill- The most important thing is to make people happy, to ing company in Chartres a fairly common arrangement love what you have done! Then I remembered: This was in France, where bakers partner with flour producers. the lesson I had witnessed every day in France. It was This one, was a family-owned champion of the artisan the source of great bread, the most important rule. And movement and worked closely with bakers to develop now it was mine.

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

35

H O LY H O P S

HOLY HOPS Written by Briana McKanna, Photography by Gabriel Avramovici

Father Huber of Ettal Monastery, Bavaria's oldest brewery, spills secrets from the Abbey Beer Trail.

T

he large, castle-like grounds of the monastery are the result of a long historical development and demonstrates one of the main concerns of a Benedictine Abbey: An independent religious community which produces everything needed for life and thus has all the important workshops and undertakings, if possible within the confines of the monastery.

The economic basis of the abbey consists of that which the monks themselves produce and earn as well as of a number of undertakings such as a brewery, the making of liqueur, hotel, and publishing house. Through these activities the large complex of buildings has to be kept up for the most part by the monks themselves.

In 2009, the Ettal Monastery in southern Germany celebrated 400 continuous years of brewing the liquid bread of Bavaria. Situated within the walls of one of Europe's largest and oldest Benedictine abbeys, the Klosterbrauerei

He r i n s e d t h e s t e i n w it h a s plas h of u n filtered beer th en du mpe d i t t h ro ug h t h e f l o o r d ra in . “ For all th e dead brew mas ters,” h e q u ip p e d , w ith a n od to th e pas t. originated to serve the needs of monks and pilgrims alike.

Today, their award winning brewery and spectacular Baroque basilica at the foot of the Alps attract thousands of visitors annually.

I took a tour of the monastery and facilities along with current brew master, Florian Huber. He's been overseeing production since July 2012. As we concluded our time in Ettaler's newly-remodeled cellar, Florian helped himself to a taste of Ettaler's bestselling Edel Hell from a glass stein the size of my forearm. He rinsed the stein with a splash of unfiltered beer then dumped it through the floor drain. For all the dead brew masters, he quipped, with a nod to the past.

The Ettal Monastery Brewery was founded in 1609. The monastery originally had a brewery in the neighbor village of Oberammergau. In 1609, the brewery was rebuilt here in Ettal. By April, 1618, the monastery received permission from the duke of Bavaria to brew and distribute beer.

36

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

H O LY H O P S

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

37

H O LY H O P S

Th e la r g e , c a s t l e - l ike g rou n ds h ou se on e of th e largest b re w e r ies in all of German y.

38

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

H O LY H O P S

What can you tell me about the brewing history of Ettaler?

The monastery itself was founded by the Holy Roman Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian in 1330. The brewery, however, wasn't founded until 1609. Until the year 1803, the brewery was in sole ownership of the monastery. Then came the Bavarian secularization and a lot of monasteries went into the ownership of the Bavarian state, as was the case with Ettal and its brewery. Throughout the 19th century the brewery changed hands a number of times. Then again in 1900 the monastery was rebuilt and the monks regained ownership. Just this last summer the new fermentation and storage cellar were finished.

Who works here at the Ettaler brewery?

At one time all of the brewing was done exclusively by monks. Now we only have one monk from the monastery who works as a brewer. The last time a brew master was a monk was something like thirty years ago. You have to go back two or three centuries to find a time when only monks worked here.

What makes Ettaler beers different or unique?

It's a difficult question. Because I don't think anyone in Bavaria really produces bad beer. Today you have to aim for exceptionally high quality. There's a really strong market in Bavaria, so if you have bad quality, even if only for a couple of weeks or months, then that was the last time you produced beer. German beers can only be produced with four basic ingredients: water, malt, hops, and yeast. But with those four we can create myriad flavors.

T

ake, for example, a Bavarian who has been drinking the same brand for the last thirty years. If he's drinking Ettaler, no doubt he thinks it's the best beer. If he drinks another Bavarian classic like Paulaner, he'll likely say, No, it's no good. But that's just a normal beer drinker. He's acclimatized.

But I think as a brew master I have to work to prevent becoming acclimated to one taste over another. I need to make sure my beers are of a high quality. So I want to test and smell products from other breweries and think, Oh, what hops is he using?

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

39

H O LY H O P S

What do you think of American and imported beers?

I'm really encouraged by the growing trend in America toward micro-breweries or micro-craft brewers. Smaller breweries, like Ettaler, are capable of producing some high quality brews with different palates. However, when a Bavarian like myself drinks a standard American or Canadian beer, it all tastes a little like water. And Germans don't like beer that tastes like water.

What are your bestselling products?

Edel Hell (Noble Light), a typical Bavarian fair beer, bottom-fermented. Most Bavarians prefer export beers, fair beers like lagers, with an alcohol content of about 5%. Edel is mild, somewhat malty and slightly bitter, but with a good hops flavor. We use a special hop for that variety which gives hints of lemon and flower. It's a little sweeter and less bitter, like a pilsner. Personally, I prefer our Heller Bock, a fair but strong beer, about 7.5% alcohol, and with a solid hops flavor.

What makes a truly Bavarian beer?

It ultimately comes down to the composition of all four ingredients. For a normal beer, 92-93% is water, 5% is alcohol. The rest is a little sugar and flavor. So you can tell that the water is tremendously important. Also, the malt is something like the ground floor, or foundation of a beer. Then you can then use hops to add bitterness or certain flavors, such as flowery, grassy, or lemony. You can really see the importance of yeast in wheat beers. There are a wide range of flavors in Bavarian beers. Some fruity, like bananas or strawberries. Some are spicy, like cloves. All of those flavors come from the yeast.

Where do you get your hops and other ingredients?

We get our hops from Holledau, here in Bavaria between Munich and Nuremberg.

It's the biggest hop-growing region in the world, a little larger than Williamette Valley in Oregon, I think. Holledau produces about thirty different varieties, bitter hops or flavor hops. Here we only use flavor hops, in three different varieties. The barley from the malt also comes from Bavaria, from around Munich.

40

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

H O LY H O P S

Et ta l ’s p a t h w ay s m ay get icy, bu t in side provides w a r m f o o d a n d b e e r for an y wh o wish to vis it.

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

41

H O LY H O P S

42

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

H O LY H O P S

O

ur water comes from the region as well, spring water from the Alps.

The water itself is, of course, natural with no nitrates or sodium. But Alpine water is very hard water, high in calcium. Which means we have to soften the water.

Has the composition, your recipe, changed over the centuries?

For sure. For many centuries only the Bavarian dukes and kings had the right to brew the beer. With the advent of the purification laws in the 1500s, beer in Germany could only be produced with the four basic ingredients. Over time the quality of raw materials changed. Technical achievements changed a lot. As an example, southern Bavaria was traditionally a region with dark beers because the water near the Alps was very hard.

How has the brewing process itself changed across the centuries?

Brewing is a very difficult handcraft. Over the years, a number of changes and advancements have made the process much easier, faster, and more efficient.

Centuries ago, brewers didn't understand the yeast. They knew that there was some “slime” that was important for the fermentation, but how it really worked was a mystery. Also, as I said, only as they began softening the water was it possible to brew fair beers in this region.

A

significant revolution came with the invention of the refrigeration machine in the 1870s. After that it became possible to produce beer year round.

Over time fermentation tanks also developed from wood to iron to copper to stainless steel, affecting the brewing process and flavor. Now our goals for the future are on reducing energy consumption, environmental protection, and, of course, reproducible quality.

What can people expect when they visit the brewery today?

For guided groups we can provide a tour through the brewery, beer tastings in the storage cellar with unfiltered beers, a museum tour, or maybe just a cozy time with some beer and Bavarian snacks — it's up to the visitors. We have regular tours every weekday. It's a very lovely and historical region of southern Bavaria. The combination of castles, monasteries, the Alps, arts, and winter sports is the drawing point for visitors.

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

43

44

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

45

B O N V O YA G E

CATCH A WAVE IN BRITAIN written by Lane Adams NOW THAT MODERN WETSUITS ARE SO GOOD, YOU CAN SURF ALL year-round in UK waters. Here's our list of the Top British beaches to catch a wave.

LONGSANDS BAY

There has long been a flourishing Geordie surf scene, with local surfers such as Gabe Davies and Sam Lamiroy bagging British titles galore and going on to achieve world renown. Its centre is the beach break of Longsands at Tynemouth.

Lessons and board hire can be arranged here. Tynemouth is brimful of pubs, cafes and restaurants, and there are few more scenic detours to be made taking the coast road north to Bamburgh and Lindisfarne.

NEWGALE

There are few places in Britain as stunning as the Pembrokeshire coastline, which was designated a national park in 1952. This is a wild, rugged landscape of rolling jade-green hills, jagged cliffs and an abundance of beautiful beaches.

Newgale is one of the finest and, better yet, its sheer size means that crowds are rarely a problem. Here you can surf in peace though, wave quality will vary depending on the 46

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

state of the sandbanks, power and size of the swell and wind direction.

WATERGATE BAY

Watergate has been one of Cornwall's premier surf spots since the sport took off in nearby Newquay in the early 1960s. At high tide, the waves may be crowded, but as the tide goes out a wide expanse of golden sand is revealed, with great waves to be had towards the northern end of the beach. The culinary fare is as good as it gets with Jamie Oliver's Fifteen restaurant right on the beach.

SAUNTON SANDS

Gentle, rolling waves and a seemingly endless expanse of gently shelving beach make Saunton Sands in North Devon perfect for beginners. It's also the scene of quality longboarding here you'll see a stylish local crew hanging ten and walking the board all day long.

Around the corner at Croyde Bay, though, the surf is more challenging.

Here the shortboard slash and tear fraternity are strongly in evidence, and if you're not at their level you'd be better off enjoying your own waves at Saunton the beach is so vast that just a short walk will secure an uncrowded peak.

B O N V O YA G E

ph otogr aph y by Tom Shaw

Surfers are out all year round at these destinations, so grab your board and get ready to hang ten – in a European fashion of course!

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

47

48

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5

Lar k M ag az in e \ \ Wi n ter 2 015

49

La rk Magazin e \\ Wi nte r 2 0 1 5