Steppes Traveller Magazine 2024

S T E P P E S T R AV E L L E R

LIVING A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED

BY GILES CROSS

AN INTERVIEW WITH INDRAJIT LATEY

BY CHARLOTTE LAWTON

THINK LIKE A PUMA

BY JARROD KYTE

THE LAND BETWEEN TWO RIVERS

BY JUSTIN WATERIDGE

Welcome These are dark times and my thoughts go out to those in dark places.

Yet it’s worth noting that, unfortunately, dark times are nothing new. The late 1960s saw the outbreak of ‘The Troubles’ in Northern Ireland, in the 1970s I remember as a young boy being terrified by the threat of nuclear war; in the 1980s AIDS was a public health crisis and in the 1990s the Balkans were mired in a crisis of conflict.

Yet it’s also worth remembering that there is light and the world is a beautiful place. And that’s why we travel.

To dispel myths. To break down barriers. To change perceptions. To understand. To appreciate beauty. To share that light.

In a recent visit to the sumptuous Visoki Decani Monastery in Kosovo, I was humbled by the words of one of the monks who lives among the different ethnic communities constrained to conform to nationalist paradigms, who quietly suggests that, “We should live together regardless of our differences.”

In the words of a traveller far more eloquent than me, Freya Stark, “To awaken quite alone in a strange town is one of the pleasantest sensations in the world. You are surrounded by adventure. You have no idea what is in store for you, but you will, if you are wise and know the art of travel, let yourself go on the stream of the unknown and accept whatever comes in the spirit in which the gods may offer it.”

I trust that this, our Steppes magazine, helps you find those rays of sunshine.

Travel well. Find the light.

Justin Wateridge Managing Director Steppes Travel

Contents

06

50

72

86

4

On the Horizon

6

Living a Life Well Travelled

10

The Safari

20

The Road Trip

26

The Voyage

36

The Grand tour

42

The Cultural Trip

50

Kumbh Mela Festival 2025

54

Sailing the Great Bear Rainforest

56

The Trek

62

The Family Holiday

68

Space Travel

80

Edge of Wonder

80

The Train Journey

102

Travel Calendar

Travel experiences we’re excited for in 2024.

Our 10 travel ideas to fill a lifetime.

Big Idea One: Australia Big Idea Two: Chile

Big Idea Three: Antarctica Big Idea Four: Central Asia Big Idea Five: Southeast Asia Join our group tour for a rare opportunity to experience the largest religious festival in the world.

Join Paul Goldstein on our exclusive photography group tour in September 2024.

Big Idea Six: India Big Idea Seven: Indonesia

Big Idea Eight: Kyrgyzstan Big Idea Nine: Socotra

Big Idea Ten: Eastern Europe The best times to visit and when to book.

Editor in Chief: Giles Cross Editorial: Steppes Travel Contributing Team: Anna Souroullas, Jarrod Kyte, Kate Burnell, Katie Jones and Georgia Morley Design: Sharpe Design Ltd

UK: +441280 460084 | USA: 1 800 571 2985 | inspireme@steppestravel.com | steppestravel.com 3

ON THE

HORIZON

Travel experiences we’re excited for in 2024

4 Steppes Traveller | 2024

Credit: Speke’s Camp

KENYA - WALKING THE RIFT Walk the Rift Valley along age-old Masaai trails, from the Mara to the Loita Forest, spending nights by the campfire at classic fly camps. Led by local Loita Maasai, you’ll visit hidden waterfalls in the Loita Forest, take picnic lunches under ancient trees and witness memorable sunsets. Combine trekking with game drives in the conservancies of the Mara and Shompole, staying at independent lodges. This African adventure is a mixture of prolific wildlife and outstanding insight into Masaai culture and folklore.

INDIA - ODISHA ODYSSEY Sail on board a premier two-suite catamaran and explore the second largest mangrove ecosystem in India. Often referred to as the Amazon of the East due to its prolific biodiversity, Bhitarkanika National Park is home to over 320 species of birds and large numbers of saltwater crocodiles. Discover secluded channels by boat, explore beaches and mangrove forests on guided nature walks and take your time over lazy sundowners from the comfort of your sundeck. Start with two nights in Bhubaneswar, exploring the old city temples located around Bindu Sagar Lake, and finish with two nights in Kolkata for guided tours of the flower market, Victoria Memorial and College Street.

OMAN - DHOW CRUISE AND DESERT Oman conjures images of desert landscapes, mountains and minaret adorned skylines. However, a newly restored Arabian dhow opens up a unique opportunity to experience the lesserknown treasures offshore and the chance to combine the coast and deserts of Oman. Board the Ibra, your eight-berth dhow, to cruise the coast, exploring the protected Dimaniyat archipelago and the bays and marine life of Bandar Kheryran. Journey inland to a sea of sand, staying at a private Bedouin-style camp. Tailored daily activities ensure a wonderfully rounded experience of the culture, landscapes and people of this hospitable country.

WEST PAPUA & ASMAT TRIBE EXPEDITION Set departure dates: 8th and 15th November 2025 Aqua Expeditions’ new 2025 voyage is one of the most spellbinding itineraries we’ve seen. Take a seven-night journey through the Arafura Sea to the mystical Asmat region of West Papua. Private speed boats navigate deep into the jungle, reaching the remote Asmat people, unveiling secrets of their ancestral worship and dance rituals. See prehistoric art walls and swim with whale sharks in Triton Bay, embark on jungle hikes to spot endemic kangaroos and witness Momon’s spectacular Kiti-Kiti waterfall which flows directly into the sea. With a 1:1 guest to guide ratio, life onboard Aqua Blu is attentive, whilst the cuisine echoes Indonesia’s storied spice trade era.

CHINA TO LAOS HIGH-SPEED TRAIN The culturally diverse and naturally beautiful Yunnan province in southwest China can now be seamlessly connected with Laos via a new high-speed train. This exciting route enables a fascinating multi-country adventure, without the need for internal flights. Begin amidst the tranquil Tibetan culture of Shangri-La, journeying through sacred mountain landscapes to the UNESCO World Heritage town of Lijiang and onwards to the lakeside town of Dali. A full-day train ride links Kunming to Vientiane, the capital of Laos. Another short train hop delivers you to the ancient redroofed temples, vibrant night markets and Mekong River scenes of Luang Prabang, the perfect conclusion to this Asian adventure.

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LIVING A LIFE

WELL TRAVELLED

by Giles Cross, Editor in Chief

6 Steppes Traveller | 2024

LIVING A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED

Next time you sit in a coffee shop, bar or restaurant - indeed anywhere where people meet and talk - listen. Eavesdrop a little.

You’ll discover something: travel tales and holiday stories flow like water, meandering their way into conversations, ebbing and flowing into our conscious and unconscious desires and dreams.

As people, we seem to have an inherent fascination with travel and exploration. It sits in all of us. We devour travel-based ‘entertainment’ and insight. We’re drawn to the well-travelled, creating heroes, revered as much for their adventures as for their experience, insight, humour and understanding: from Polo to Raleigh, from Stanley to Burton; from Fiennes to Theroux; to Palin, Whicker and Bourdain.

There are voices for every generation.

We yearn to be part of this captivating club – and why not? Travel has a unique allure.

It tugs at the heart. It nurtures dreams, creating movies in our minds, images and narratives where we imagine and see ourselves somewhere else – sometimes, indeed, as someone else – where our inner hero takes a stand.

The world presents a vast miasma of opportunity and our curiosity naturally draws us toward its uncharted territories.

Whether we’re planning our next getaway, discussing our children’s travel plans or living vicariously through the adventures of friends and family, the desire to explore is deeply ingrained in our collective consciousness.

And that’s grand.

Because travel is a good thing. Yes, we need to counter its environmental impact and we must be mindful of over-tourism, but travel brings a myriad of positives: the enrichment of our lives and the lives of others, the growth in global and destination economies, the protecting of biodiversity and a greater cultural exchange that creates understanding and awareness.

Witnessing the beauty of the world’s natural wonders itself inspires accelerated environmental consciousness and a greater commitment to protecting our planet.

So, how can we travel well?

And how do we become that thing we’d all love to be? How do we do it consciously and not in retrospect? How can we transform travel from an occasional experience to an integral part of our lives?

How do we live a life well travelled?

Some do it naturally – others may require a mental or lifestyle shift – but whatever path you choose, the one well worn or the one less travelled, the steps are simple.

Don’t leave your list of must-do places and experiences to one side, plan those trips. Make the call. Embrace adventure.

Welcome spontaneity and unpredictability.

Open yourself to the idea of exploring the uncharted and say “yes” to new experiences. Connect with other travellers.

Share your experiences, exchange tips, read and seek inspiration from those who’ve gone before. Most importantly, be flexible.

Look beyond simple destinations and consider the ways you can best experience them.

In putting together this edition of The Steppes Traveller, we specifically sought the inspiration for travel, the ‘reasons why’; but in doing so we inevitably discovered the ‘what’ and became enlightened by the ‘how’.

Within these pages, the ‘why’ should become obvious. Whether it’s ‘because it’s there’, or because it’s beautiful or simply ‘just because’.

You’ll find plenty of ‘what’; wonderful places just begging to be experienced, skirting playfully between the familiar and the unknown. Consider them all.

But mainly, you’ll read about ‘how’, finding 10 carefully curated ideas to help you be that well-travelled person; ideas curated in the knowledge that if you finished the job, if you took a trip like each of the ones described, you’d live a life like no other.

And that’s where we found our muse. We hope you find yours.

Throughout the magazine you’ll find this icon. These are our 10 BIG IDEAS for living a life well travelled.

Speak to our experts today to start planning your next Beautiful Adventure.

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WHAT KIND OF

TRAVELLER Travel is a wonderful thing. A treat, sweetmeat, gift, offering and delivering for every palette. It’s a launchpad for living.

A reward, a raft of opportunity: for growth, for learning, for respite and for peace; for adventure and exploration, for love.

Travel suggests and brings something different to each and every one of us; and, in the same way that no two trips are ever the same, each of us has a unique nuance and personality when it comes to the journeys we choose. Travel becomes an infinite universe of variance where, bizarrely, one absolute truth exists intact: there is a trip, a holiday, an adventure for everyone.

But finding the right one, the one that suits you, isn’t always easy. A good first step is to ask yourself a simple, but searching, question: what kind of traveller are you?

8 Steppes Traveller | 2024

ARE YOU?

A CURIOUS TRAVELLER? A Curious Traveller is a seeker of sensation, of the deep, the dense and the delicious, of answers to questions and to their personal unknowns. They’re the lovers of knowledge and those who mine the past, delving to uncover the ancient secrets binding deeprooted traditions; the foodies, the culture vultures, the wildlife lovers; the travellers whose curiosity extends beyond landscape and into the heartland of place.

A VOYAGER? A Voyager travels for the love of the ocean and the opportunity to take an ‘offshore view’ of the world. Travelling aboard a ship is for those who want to roll with the waves, where endless horizons allow room for self and space, who want to lose themselves in visceral thrall and sounds of the sea and meet the allure and promise of a distant shore. Whether it’s a small expedition vessel exploring nooks and crannies that the bigger ships can’t reach or an exclusive charter or expedition, linking continents in search of the wild, a voyage is a place where relaxation and exploration seamlessly converge.

A PIONEER? A Pioneer seeks to match their heartbeat with that of the Earth. To escape the hustle, bustle and norms of daily life, to discover and to test. To find solace and strength, to learn resilience, perseverance and patience; to make transformative journeys, physically and spiritually. Our world is a magnificent place, a veritable cave of wonder and Mother Nature is ready to make your acquaintance. Let beautiful views be your enlightenment, allow senses to be revitalised in space, whether it be desert, steppe, mountains or jungle.

A WANDERER? A Wanderer has no destination. They travel for the love of the road, for the ride, the chance meetings, the lack of order and for the excitement and sake of the journey itself. Where the world races forward, this style of travel brings you back. Whether on a road trip weaving around inquisitive corners, chasing shadows through peaks or forest, meandering from town to town or riding a train, slicing through dramatic landscapes, each mile unveils a new story and a new vista, each stop a new opportunity for change. Wander. Abandon routines. Escape the mundane. Marvel.

Write your own story.

A TRIBE? Tribes come in all sizes, large and small.

Some linked by blood, others by association and friendship, all, inevitably, by love.

Together they create memories. From tribes of two just starting a lifetime of Beautiful Adventures, to families searching for their next exciting, binding experience all finding moments for genuine connection, all investing in their relationships through travel.

However and wherever you travel in our wide world of possibility, let your journeys beat at your rhythm, to a tune that only you can dance to. Let us be your choreographer.

We too are the Curious, the Voyagers, the Pioneers and the Wanderers, keen to share and to guide. We have Tribes of our own.

Let us help fill your travels with memorable moments, tailoring every day to make your trips as unique as you are, and as you aspire to be. It’s what we do.

All you have to do is answer one simple question: what kind of traveller are you?

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THE

SAFARI A safari is a journey, a journey that offers a glimpse into life and its intricate web. Every creature plays a vital role. And us? We’re just one small part of a much grander design. A player in a team.

An instrument in an orchestra.

Discover the symphony of raw wilderness and untamed beauty, a testament to the Earth’s boundless creativity. Discover wildlife and movement in the depths of faraway lands. Discover an unspoken language, a rhythm that beats in harmony with the rustle of leaves and the call of distant birds.

Safaris give us a deep appreciation for balance. A profound understanding of our place in the labyrinthine tapestry of existence—an understanding that can transform lives and, ultimately, the world itself.

10 Steppes Traveller | 2024

LIVING A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED Big Idea One

Australia: The World Turned Upside Down Perfect for those who are exhilarated by being at one with the wild, this alternative Australia journey is brilliant for families, couples and solo travellers alike.

Embark on a different kind of safari and venture off grid from Australia’s outback to its ocean.

Swap the endless savannahs for the gorges and gum trees of South Australia’s outback, the rugged coast of Kangaroo Island and the marine rich waters of Margaret River in Western Australia. Cut off from the rest of the world for around 30 million years, Australia’s wildlife has adapted into distinctive species. Take a step beyond the traditional ‘Big Five’ and discover iconic species endemic to Australia, from macropods and monotremes to marsupials and cetaceans.

Designed to captivate with its diversity, this itinerary is a harmonious blend of wildlife encounters against a backdrop of varied landscapes, with explorations on foot, by boat and train. Begin amidst the cinematic expanse of a 60,000-acre private wildlife conservancy in the Flinders Ranges. Explore the wildlife haven of Kangaroo Island, joining resident experts who contribute to echidna research and visit colonies of sea lions and seals, before journeying by train across the vast limestone plains of Nullarbor, from Adelaide to Perth.

Acquaint yourself with the charming quokkas of Rottnest Island in the west before driving south to the shores of Margaret River, a realm of wine and whales. Hosting around 40,000 humpback whales annually, this locale stands as a premier destination for extraordinary humpback and orca interactions.

Accommodation throughout showcases Australia’s extraordinary diversity of place and experience, from a traditional homestead to a cliffside lodge with never-ending ocean views, a cabin in motion and a vineyard retreat.

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THE SAFARI - THE WORLD TURNED UPSIDE DOWN

YOUR JOURNEY

Day 1

Arrive Adelaide

Days 2-4

Flinders Ranges Drive from Adelaide to the Flinders Ranges and spend days exploring The Outback on foot and by 4x4.

Day 5

Flinders Ranges - Kangaroo Island Drive to Adelaide via the Barossa Valley vineyards and fly to Kangaroo Island.

Days 6-7

Kangaroo Island Spend two days exploring the island on foot, 4x4 and e-bike with expert guides and conservationists.

Days 8-10

Kangaroo Island - Perth Return to Adelaide and board the Indian Pacific train. Cross the Nullarbor Plain, sleeping on board and stopping to visit The Outback town of Cook and dine under the stars before arriving in Perth.

Day 11

Perth, Rottnest Island Get the ferry to Rottnest Island for a guided walk to meet the island’s endemic resident, the quokka.

Days 12-13

Margaret River Self-drive south to the vineyards and beaches of Margaret River and spend a day relaxing and wine tasting.

Day 14

Margaret River Join whale experts onboard a catamaran to search for humpback whales.

Day 15

Margaret River - Perth Time for home or the next chapter of your adventure.

From: £11,495 per person excluding international flights.

Follow the route

Start your journey

NULLARBOR PLAIN PERTH MARGARET RIVER

12 Steppes Traveller | 2024

FLINDERS RANGES

ADELAIDE KANGAROO ISLAND

MORE SAFARI IDEAS

Brazil Combine the swamp, savannah grasslands and forests of the Pantanal with the rainforest canopies and meandering rivers of the Amazon for an extraordinarily diverse safari experience.

Navigate the vast UNESCO floodplains in search of jaguar and caiman before immersing yourself in the Amazon rainforest, where the sounds and colours of nature’s smaller residents take centre stage.

Tanzania Acres of wild space welcome millions of migrating wildebeest and zebra each year; herds of buffalo wallow amongst flamingos, journeys of giraffe traverse the plains and the roar of lions echo across ancient Rift Valley lakes. Take yourself back to the roots of safari with Nomad’s new expeditionary mobile walking camp, sleeping under the stars and rewilding your spirit. Combine with a lodge-based 4x4 safari and time on the coast for a truly memorable adventure.

Baja California An eight-day, land and liveaboard holiday to Baja California effortlessly combines a raft of unforgettable wildlife experiences.

Spend three nights on board an expedition yacht, snorkelling, diving and kayaking alongside the abundant marine life of the Sea of Cortez. Fly to an isolated camp on the shores of San Ignacio Lagoon and spend your days in the privileged company of one of the last significant remaining grey whale populations.

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AN INTERVIEW with

INDRAJIT LATEY

by Charlotte Lawton

14 Steppes Traveller | 2024

Images: Indrajit Latey

INDRAJIT LATEY is an Indian wildlife naturalist with a background in conservation. I recently travelled with Indrajit and found him to be a wonderful guide with buckets of knowledge. If you’d like to travel with Indrajit too, speak to us today.

Indrajit, tell us a little about yourself and your background in wildlife conservation.

I’ve been working in wildlife and nature education since 1995. I received my diploma in ‘Wildlife Education for Children’ from the Centre for Environmental Education (CEE) in Ahmedabad. After that, I worked with WWF (India) for almost five years, designing and executing a nature education programme for children aged 8-14 years.

Following this, I launched an NGO called Pugmarks in my hometown – Pune – where we successfully organised camps and tours for children all over India. These

were predominantly wildlife and adventure based, meaning I had the opportunity to travel the length and breadth of India.

On my travels I met some of the best wildlife conservationists and got to know them really well. Stalwarts like the late Fateh Singh Rathore, the late Billy Arjan Singh, Romulus Whitaker, K. Ullas Karanth, to name a few, who spent their lives working, writing and fighting for conservation and raising awareness about India’s animal kingdom. I had fantastic opportunities to work with some of them in pristine habitats in Ranthambore, Kanha and Bandipur.

What inspired you to become a wildlife naturalist?

My father was a zoologist and taught at the local university for 42 years. His work saw him travel to remote destinations with his students – I tagged along! I was four years old when I first put a scuba tank on my back and was pushed into the ocean.

My mother comes from a very small village near a tiger reserve called Melghat. During summer vacations, my grandfather took my sister and I on drives into the forest every evening. It was then that I decided I wanted to do something related to wildlife and forestry.

To me, a naturalist is someone who plays a key role in education and conservation.

What I find most fulfilling is sharing my knowledge and passion with others, helping people connect with the natural world and educating people about the importance of conservation.

My work is rewarding; I get to spend time outdoors in beautiful, remote locations and I have all the time and opportunity to observe and learn about a wide variety of wildlife species. Each and every day going on safari is a thrilling and memorable experience. No two safaris are the same, in whatever way.

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AN INTERVIEW WITH INDRAJIT LATEY

Where is the best place to see tigers in the wild?

There’s not one straightforward answer to that. It all depends on your personal definition of ‘best’. For someone, it might mean the most beautiful location in which to spot a tiger. For others, it might mean going for the highest number of sightings. India has many tiger reserves and wildlife sanctuaries; the vast area of Central India will give you the best chances to see tigers in the wild. A lot of them have a good density of tigers and the chances of spotting the striped cat vary a lot according to the landscape.

MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACES TO SEE TIGERS IN THE WILD Kanha Tiger Reserve, Madhya Pradesh Panna Tiger Reserve, Madhya Pradesh Satpura Tiger Reserve, Madhya Pradesh PLACES WITH THE HIGHEST CHANCES OF SEEING TIGERS IN THE WILD Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve, Maharashtra Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve, Rajasthan Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, Madhya Pradesh

16 Steppes Traveller | 2024

What advice would you give someone planning a tiger safari?

Given the popularity of tiger safaris in India, you need to book accommodation, safaris and guides well in advance. Ideally, you want to book 8-10 months before. All tiger reserves and national parks in India have daily quotas of visitors that are allowed in, so if you don’t get your safari tickets booked in time, you may miss out.

Always opt for a safari with an experienced naturalist. Not only are they excellent storytellers, experts in reading jungle signs and detecting tigers, but they’re also knowledgeable about all the other wildlife in the park.

Visit a mix of different tiger reserve zones to experience the entire park. Some zones in the same park tend to have a different habitat. Tiger sightings also tend to move from one zone to another. MOST importantly, when you see your first tiger, put the camera away because you might not see another one and it’s a deeply emotive moment. The photo will probably be rubbish anyway as you will be sobbing or shaking with emotion.

HOANIB VALLEY CAMP KAOKOLAND, NAMIBIA

Travel like you mean it.

www.naturalselection.travel

At Natural Selection we are all about big adventure in wild untouched places.

The kind of adventure you go home and tell stories about. Take Hoanib Valley Camp for example. Here you’ll discover the people and the wild things that have adapted to this desert terrain. It’s the kind of place that will leave you in total wonderment.

Here you’ll feel something... like really really feel something.

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Local travel company recognised by Condé Nast.

Cirencester-based tour operator Steppes Travel has been recognised as one of the Best Specialist Tour Operators in the World in the 2023 Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Choice Awards. Ranking fifth overall, this accolade crowns a year of significant achievement and record-breaking success for the business.

Based in Castle Street, Steppes Travel has been creating and curating tailor-made travel experiences for clients for over 30 years, turning holidays into Beautiful Adventures, taking the curious to every corner of the world, promoting travel as a force for good, aligning responsibility and sustainability with excitement, wonder and joy.

This award validates the company’s belief that exceptional, lifechanging travel experiences can be delivered in tandem with responsible and sustainable business practices and with a constant and underlying focus on producing positive outcomes for people and planet.

Condé Nast Traveller magazine has been running its prestigious annual Readers’ Choice Awards for 26 years and seeks to capture and recognise the travel experiences its readers love best. These awards are the longest-running in the global travel sector and seek to celebrate industry leaders; those who create lasting memories and deliver superior experiences for their clients.

Justin Wateridge (MD Steppes Travel) said: “This is major recognition and we’re obviously delighted. We always say that our ‘secret sauce’ is our people; our people are our brilliance. The last few years have been difficult for travel and to emerge as we have is predominately down to them and their knowledge, their care and their passion for our business and the world it presents. My thanks go to them.

“However, such recognition would not be achieved without the support of our fantastic clients, many of whom travel with us year on year, always seeking new experiences, new destinations and new horizons. We are extremely grateful to them, for their trust and support are the licence by which we operate. We don’t think of them as merely clients. They’re friends. They’re family; liking and supporting what we do, urging us to be better, helping us to achieve our goal: to make the world a better place through travel.”

Official press release from October 2023

18 Steppes Traveller | 2024

EXPLORATION STARTS WITH INSPIRATION In our world, anything is possible. For those unknown spots on the map, the latest travel news and the most exciting experiences, sign up to our enews today and find the world at your fingertips.

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THE

ROAD TRIP Road trips aren’t just journeys; they’re odysseys that awaken the explorer within us. They present the freedom to wander, to abandon comfort zones and to discover the world in a way that no other mode of travel allows, as every mile unveils a new story.

The road teaches us many things: patience as we navigate the unknown, resilience as we face unexpected challenges and gratitude for simple pleasures; a warm meal, a comfortable bed.

Succumb to strange. Surrender to spontaneity. Savour the deliciousness of the journey itself. In a world bound by routines and schedules, remember that the best moments are found ‘up the road’ where the marvels of the world await, in a vehicle of your choosing, with windows down and the radio on…

20 Steppes Traveller | 2024

LIVING A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED Big Idea Two

Chile: The Magnificent Seven Designed for those wild at heart, who are looking to quench their thirst for adventure in wild locations.

Follow one of the world’s greatest routes, Chile’s Route 7 – the Carretera Austral. This 1,270 - kilometre self-drive, 4x4 adventure promises an almost otherworldly journey through one of the most extreme and beautiful destinations on the planet.

Cross rivers, follow fjords and visit national parks and forests, where glaciers and flower-filled mountains act as waypoints to your final destination – the southern ice field, the largest outside of Antarctica and Greenland. With no other cars in sight, only the tell-tale plumes of dust in the distance are reminders that you’re not truly alone; that humanity still exists, albeit elsewhere.

Drive unpaved roads through Chilean Patagonia and cut through the spectacular mountain scenery of the Aysen region. Make detours to stop in traditional coastal villages and to visit iconic marble cave systems. Discover iconic Patagonian wildlife, from condors and guanacos to armadillos and pumas. Photograph soaring snow-capped peaks and flamingo-filled lakes, before resting at remote lodges with comforting, home-cooked meals.

With no rigid timetables and only open roads, this is travel at your pace; a journey that promises one simple thing: the road trip of a lifetime.

UK: +441280 460084 | USA: 1 800 571 2985 | inspireme@steppestravel.com | steppestravel.com 21

THE ROAD TRIP - THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN

YOUR JOURNEY

Day 1

Santiago Cable car ride to Cerro San Cristobal for panoramic city views.

Day 2-3

Santiago - Balmaceda Puerto Rio Tranquilo Journey south to Puerto Rio Tranquilo on the shores of Lake General Carrera.

Day 4

Puerto Rio Tranquilo By boat, see the marble cave sanctuary carved over millennia, where the water shines a dazzling turquoise.

Day 5

Puerto Rio Tranquilo - Caleta Tortel Drive south to the coastal village of Caleta Tortel, where chilota stilt homes line the cove.

Day 6

Caleta Tortel A unique Chilean village, a haven for birdlife. With no roads, only a series of wooden walkways elevated to allow the free flow of water below.

Day 7

Caleta Tortel - Patagonia National Park Drive north to Explora Patagonia National Park, a sustainable lodge within the private 200,0000-acre reserve.

Days 8-9

Patagonia National Park With views of flamingo-filled lakes, snow-capped mountains and open grassland, head out with an expert guide looking for guanacos, mountain vizcachas, elusive pumas and red foxes.

Day 10

Patagonia National Park Aysen Region Head north to Aysen, Chile’s least populated region. Visit the electric blue confluence of the River Neff and Baker River.

Days 11-12

Aysen Region - Balmaceda - Santiago

Follow the route From: £4,995 per person excluding international flights.

Start your journey SANTIAGO

PUERTO RIO TRANQUILO CALETA TORTEL

22 Steppes Traveller | 2024

BALMACEDA AIRPORT

Time for home or the next chapter of your adventure.

MORE ROAD TRIP IDEAS

New Zealand By far one of the most rewarding road trip destinations, New Zealand is home to some of the most beautifully diverse scenery and wildlife in the world. Find yourself alone on wide, open roads surrounded by vistas of epic proportions. With jaw-dropping views at every turn, find yourself passing soaring volcanic peaks, lakes and rivers fringed by dense woodland, fertile plains and ending on glorious golden beaches. The freedom and space of self-drive in New Zealand allows for spontaneity, whether that be stopping to spot seal pups and dolphins, walking on a deserted beach or photographing extraordinary panoramas.

USA Take to the road and relish the freedom of a self-drive journey where spontaneous detours uncover hidden gems and unexpected moments. Whether it’s driving the roads of three states of the Deep South in an iconic Ford Mustang convertible, or exploring the miles of coastal roads and expansive wine valleys in the Pacific Northwest state of Oregon, road tripping in the USA isn’t a one-trick pony. Beyond the 63 national parks, it’s the birthplace of jazz and rock ‘n’ roll and its lively cities form a vibrant tapestry of cultural richness from the French Quarter in New Orleans to Milwaukee’s multitude of museums.

Namibia Evoke a sense of exploration and discovery with a self-drive adventure through Namibia. Driving across this Mad Max landscape is an exhilarating yet oddly relaxing journey. In spite of its sense of seclusion, Namibia will not leave you wanting.

Fill your time searching for desert wildlife, uniquely adapted to survive in such harsh conditions. Hike up dunes and gaze out over a shimmering sea of demerara drifts, kayak beside seals, visit rock art sites and ride horses through the desert.

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SOUTH AFRICA

ON TWO WHEELS

by Nick Laing

Stopping atop a mountain escarpment, dust whipping up from the road and rain clouds threatening, we looked back at the twisting turns that had carried us up 594 metres to this narrow pass of Bain’s Kloof.

Built in 1854, this is a route from Cape Town to the Western Cape.

From our standpoint we could see in the distance our starting point, the vast plains defining the enormity of the province.

Nick Laing travelled to South Africa in October 2023. Do let us know if you’d be interested in having us design such a trip for you.

24 Steppes Traveller | 2024

For the five of us, this was our tenth motorbike trip since our 10,000 mile circuit of the Mediterranean in 2009. After a few fairly adventurous outings, we thought South Africa might be a more relaxed option; spectacular scenery, straight roads with no traffic, plus the bonus of comfortable hotels, delicious food and local wine.

Twisting our way down the other side of the pass, we head for the beach resort of Paternoster. Fresh fish awaited us at the Voorstrandt Restaurant, just begging to be eaten. A perfect end to a spectacular first day.

We’d carefully planned our route to make sure we covered the natural magnificence of South Africa. From the coast we headed north into the Karoo. The vast, flat, semi-arid expanse of scrub that stretches 300 miles to the Namibian border is only broken by ridges of flat-topped mesas – similar to those in Arizona.

Denounced by early settlers as “a frightening place of great heat, great frosts, great floods, and great droughts” it remains sparsely populated and a single sheep requires 12 acres to graze. For bikers, it was an absolute joy. A dead straight road and not another car (or sheep) in sight. We briefly stopped at an isolated garage, the unexpected home to the Protea Motor Museum, a collection of 200 motorbikes crammed cheek by jowl. The life’s work of Thinus Coetzer.

Our journey continued north under clear skies and temperatures hovering around 33°C. The occasional antelope grazing near the road was the only wildlife, despite the lack of human habitation.

The road was marked by a string of dilapidated telegraph poles stretching into the far distance. Many were leaning at sharp angles under the weight of the strange treehouse-like nests built by the social weaver birds; other bleaker poles served as vantage points for predatory hawks.

Three days of blue skies and wide open vistas followed. Then the heavens opened. Cascading rain brought life to the parched earth.

Our destination was Hogsback, perched high in the Amatola Mountain Range. On a good day there are spectacular views, thriving arts and crafts, well preserved architecture and endless walks but, arriving wet and bedraggled, we had little interest in anything other than dry clothes. Unfortunately, our locally made panniers had even put paid to that little luxury.

The sun re-emerged and a relatively short ride took us back to the coast and the Oceana Wildlife Reserve. Palatial rooms overlooking the sea and a superb dinner quickly wiped the memory of the preceding day. The following morning, we hugged the coast running west past Port Elizabeth to Cape St Francis and Knysna before turning inland to cut through the spectacular Meiringspoort Gorge. Fifteen miles of road slices through the escarpment, exposing millennia of geological layers that have been

uplifted and squeezed into fantastic patterns. Its sheer beauty and height reduced us to insignificance.

The next morning we were back on the road heading for the winelands and Franschhoek with just the Swartberg Pass to conquer; 40 miles of twisting hairpin bends that climb 1,500 metres. Unbeknown to us, the torrential rain storms of the previous week had washed out chunks of the road creating chasms which grabbed our tyres and led to muscle clenching moments, not helped by a sheer drop off to the side with little to no barrier.

Thankfully we all made it in one piece, with just a few minor mishaps to embellish the story. On reaching the top, we felt like gods on Olympus looking down on the road that dropped away through the escarpment until it disappeared into the haze.

Down the other side we found the luxurious peace and serenity of the Galenia Estate, outside Montagu, and were rewarded with a relaxed but exciting evening watching South Africa win their rugby semi-final.

Over one last escarpment and we dropped down into a lush, green, fertile valley of vineyards stretching out in every direction. We had time for one last swanky hotel and expansive meal (both in cost and waistline) before making our way to the airport with a final stop at the privately owned Franschhoek Motor Museum, (an absolute must if you are in the area). We return home, our weight heavier but our minds full of great vistas and a feeling of space in this world.

This is a very easy 2,000 mile journey and perfect for the novice biker who loves the great outdoors, great food and great wine. With the exception of the Swartberg Pass (which can be avoided), the roads are all tarmac with daily distances of around 2,300 miles. It’s fully guided and can be organised with separate transportation for luggage. We rented our motorbikes in Cape Town, choosing the BMW 850 GS, but both larger and smaller versions are available for hire. Perfect for a group of friends and a perfect Steppes adventure.

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THE

VOYAGE To be at sea, that most visceral plane. At the ends of the Earth, close to shore, near or far, the music is always the same: a symphony of exploration, an exquisite dance between salt and soul. Weather on your cheeks, no day the same, sailing remorselessly into adventure, toward a rendezvous with the remarkable.

Timeless, but in the now, every moment a masterpiece of our making as we embrace and pursue our wanderlust: to see, to wonder and make land fall, to conquer the elements as our ancestors did.

A voyage isn’t a ‘holiday’; it’s a gateway to incredible destinations: pristine beaches, fabulous fjords and perfect peninsulas, each day adding new chapters to your story, every wave a reminder of the ebb and flow of life.

A reminder that there is art in travel.

26 Steppes Traveller | 2024

LIVING A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED Big Idea Three

Antarctica: The Greatest Show on Earth Outnumbered by animals and dwarfed by towering icebergs and vast ice sheets, this frozen continent is like nowhere else on earth. For those in search of adventure, wild places, unforgettable wildlife encounters and with a thirst for exploration, Antarctica will not disappoint.

Glimpse into the Heroic Age of Antarctic exploration of the early 1900s. Remote and challenging to reach, South Georgia, the Falkland Islands and Antarctica are home to iconic wildlife such as spectacular colonies of king penguins.

Delve deep into the heart of this extraordinary region with Zodiac and land excursions, fascinating talks by onboard experts and by contributing to its preservation through an onboard Citizen Science Programme me. Learn how to best capture the landscape and wildlife with advice from a photography coach throughout the expedition.

This is nature’s kingdom where the husky cry of the sea lion and the quizzical gaze of the rockhopper are reminders of nature’s supremacy. A memorable wildlife-centric expedition that travels to the ends of the Earth.

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THE VOYAGE - THE GREATEST SHOW ON EARTH

YOUR JOURNEY Days 1-2

Ushuaia Explore Ushuaia, send a postcard from the Post Office at the end of the world. Meet other passengers at an evening voyage briefing.

Days 9-12

South Georgia Zodiac landings amongst thousands of king penguins and a visit to Grytviken whaling station, the burial site of Sir Ernest Shackleton.

Days 3-4

MS Seaventure Board the MS Seaventure and enjoy a Captain’s welcome dinner. En route to the Falkland Islands, experts give talks on the local wildlife, history and geology.

Days 13-14

Scotia Sea Follow Shackleton’s route to Antarctica.

Days 15-18

Antarctic Peninsula and South Shetland Islands Explore bays and channels on the lookout for wildlife or land ashore and visit historical sites.

Days 19-21

Drake Passage - Ushuaia Cross the Drake Passage, sharing unforgettable memories with a slideshow and farewell meal.

Day 5

From: £19,499 per person for 21 days, excluding international flights based on a Porthole Cabin twinshare. For a limited time, a 15% discount is available; speak to our experts for more information.

Start your journey

West Falklands Potential stops include Carcass Island and West Point Island, inhabited by great numbers of rockhopper penguins and black-browed albatross.

Day 6

Stanley and East Falkland Pioneer cottages, military monuments and British landmarks point to the island’s storied past. Sip a tipple in a colourful English pub.

Days 7-8

Days at Sea Sail towards South Georgia. Experts give talks on the history and fauna of the archipelago.

Follow the route FALKLAND ISLANDS

SOUTH

GEORGIA

USHUAIA

ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

28 Steppes Traveller | 2024

Time for home or the next chapter of your adventure.

MORE VOYAGE IDEAS

Egypt Few river voyages evoke such a sense of history than the Nile.

Gently cruise along this iconic river and experience Egypt from a different perspective, from the impressive temple complexes on the riverbanks to the simplicity and beauty of daily life on the water. Spend your days lapping up contemporary luxury with an onboard pool and spa, or for a real sense of history and place, board a luxury steamship dating back to 1918.

Galapagos Islands For wildlife lovers, the Galapagos Islands have long been a love affair like no other – the muse to Darwin’s evolutionary theory has been a rite of passage ever since. If you’re looking for a glimpse into our natural history, our exclusive charter around Darwin’s archipelago is an opportunity not to be missed. Join marine biologist and whale shark expert Jonathan Green on a 10-day voyage onboard one of our favourite vessels, the Natural Paradise. Panga rides take you to visit eight unique islands, each teeming with diverse flora and fauna. Look out for blue-footed boobies, Darwin finches and Galapagos hawks. Swim with sea lions, Galapagos penguins, rays, reef sharks and dazzling shoals of tropical fish. What’s more, a portion of each booking supports Jonathan’s Galapagos Whale Shark Research Project.

Tasmania Located 240 kilometres to the southeast of mainland Australia, Tasmania’s habitat is significantly different to the rest of the country. A coastal voyage offers access to some of the farthest reaches of the state’s UNESCO World Heritage-listed wilderness. Join a four-or six-night expedition cruise to explore the remote south-west of the island, alongside people who know the Tasmanian waters intimately. Inaccessible by road, leave your floating luxury lodge each day and head into the wilds on guided walks and wilderness cruises to discover coastal caves, picnic on isolated beaches and walk through untamed landscapes. Wake to a different view each day, with return seaplane flights to Hobart offering a breathtaking aerial perspective of the island.

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ARCTIC:

OUT OF

NOTHING 79 Degrees North. Svalbard.

by Giles Cross

48 hours ago, searching the fast ice for polar bears, we were blessed with the rarest of sightings: a mother with two ‘in-year’ cubs. Well fed, content. Eyes and noses, nine black dots standing out in the pristine snow, playing familial games against a mountain backdrop in a balmy bath of glorious sunlight.

30 Steppes Traveller | 2024

It’d been worth the search, the bow of the Polar Pioneer embedded in the ice, its lines perfectly reflected in a glassy sea with all hands relentlessly scouring the endless white. Forty-two faces taking a journey from concentrated hope to wonder to delight.

The world changed in an instant. It does that here. The bears were gone, lured perhaps by the scent of a rumoured whale carcass, unnerved no doubt by shapes and sounds previously neither seen nor heard.

With them went the weather. We were bathed in an Ovaltine fog, unable to distinguish the below from the above and the sea, when seen and almost inviting minutes previously, seemed malevolent in its oily stillness. Mood dampened, we needed to move on.

The fog was inescapable. Slowly and carefully, we sailed into nothing; transfixed by ethereal but frustrating beauty. For hours we searched and hoped, praying for a break in both our fortunes and the weather, with the expectation built on such rich pickings turning to palpable discontent. We had become explorers.

A decision was made. Our tango-loving captain, our tour leader (the excellent Paul Goldstein – never has a man worked so hard for his people) and our extraordinary guides banked on bold. We’d make for Brasvellbreen, the largest glacier front in the Northern Hemisphere, its face rising 100 feet from the water, stretching an impossible 112 miles. A place rarely seen, unheard of by most.

We chugged on, enveloped by fog, cocooned in our vessel. Some stood at the bow hugging mugs, others chose the roof whilst I and several others favoured The Bridge.

I have come to love this boat, this old Finnish-built Russian tub with its iceenabled hull. It smells of adventure, its mahogany lined cabins and old-fashioned cots delivering old-school comfort. I have

been charmed by its engine room and have found reassurance in its homeliness, far removed as we are from the obvious 21st-century bling of the larger, more bland alternatives.

We arrive in the now. Our break has come.

We are here.

It’s early I think, the midnight sun rendering time of day irrelevant. The fog is with us but broken, sunlight invading the space, allowing glimpses of the indescribable. I’m sitting in a Zodiac, our landing craft, with my boat fellows. The sea is a still perfection, a mirror. We float below a sheer ice face, the majesty above us reflected perfectly below. We seem magically suspended in the middle.

do I describe the indescribable? How do I write about something that no photograph or penmanship could give justice to, about something so beautiful and yet so terrifying, that needs to be seen to be believed.

I can’t. I can only give advice: forget trying to capture what cannot be captured by anything other than presence.

We’re surrounded. ‘The Wall’ in front and above, fragments behind and around, rolling in their footprints, popping like popcorn. The colours of our world have changed: all is now white, blue or grey.

No one is speaking. We’ve given up on photographs. We don’t watch. We look.

We stare. We marvel.

We’ve pulled the Zodiac onto a large slab of flat, floating ice. Treading carefully, we wander.

I stand, thinking: work requires me to write about this. A blog. 500 words. How

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MEMORABLE

MOMENTS from our team

Illona Cross Madagascar

Picture this: forested mountains, tall trunks and canopies dripping with emerald; a golden beach, ragged tooth rocks and a lapping azure ocean. Below, the jungle continues in the form of a coral forest, tall missives of various forms that hide just under the water’s surface, inundated by dazzling fish of various species. Walking through the jungle you catch glimpses of the camouflaged, endemic species, seeing the bizarre and the ridiculous in animal form. A giant, leaf-tailed gecko with only its eye visible, a frog yet to be identified, a weevil with a neck like a giraffe. Venture out of the forest to the beach, donning your flippers and mask. You spy a whale’s spout on the horizon before sinking below the surface. Flashes of colour enter your peripheral as the wrasses dart about, a needle fish tries hard to become the colour of sand and an octopus eyes you suspiciously.

Today’s task: join the Llaneros rounding up their livestock. I fear my contribution as a relatively inexperienced horse rider will be nominal at best, but I’m in the saddle, excited and determined to be a Llanero. We line up, Magnificent Seven style, collectively scratching our chins considering the 200strong herd scattered across the horizon. An instruction is given. I gasp for breath as my horse, Flea, launches himself forward, hurtling across the uneven landscape. I’m screaming, laughing and giggling like a maniac, eyes blurred with tears. I wipe my eyes and manage to focus. We approach like a closing trawler net and the cattle begin to move. Then, the singing starts. Well, more a cacophony of different songs, tunes, whistles and shouts. The cattle are serenaded, entertained and warned against breaking away as we slowly move toward the Hato. I sense the celebration and before I know it, I’m whooping, whistling, howling and, to my shame, singing Rawhide at the top of my voice. I’m one of the boys! My Llanero brothers and I follow the wave of cattle into the corral and it’s with a great sense of satisfaction and pride that I close and latch the gate.

Paul Craven China

32 Steppes Traveller | 2024

John Faithfull Colombia

The day is grey. I walk along a track to where activity has been heard. I leave the path and make my way up the steep slope, the brown earth rich in rotting leaf matter. I push my way through the neck-high bamboo to the small ridge and crouch by a tree. As I do so, a wild giant panda walks slowly past directly below me, just 20 paces away. Wow, my heart is pounding. It is not white and cuddly. Its fur is a dirty white and splotches of blood are evident on its face. February is the mating season and whilst pandas are usually solitary animals, this period of the year brings them together. Competition to mate is fierce.

I was lucky enough to see nine different pandas during my stay in the reserve, an experience I shall never forget.

A blue flash landed on a branch near the observation tower – a spangled cotinga, with its iridescent blue and red neck. A red blur joined it: a pompadour cotinga. This seemed to be the catalyst to a flurry of activity in a triangle of trees just below us; a feeding frenzy of birds. We looked back and forth pointing at a bird, only to be distracted by the next that flew through our field of vision. We were experiencing a bloom of termites taking flight, which had attracted everything from tiny fly catchers to great toucans.

The sun now close to setting, the great blooms of termites were backlit as they hovered over the treetops like clouds. A pair of macaws squawked their arrival as they flew past, seemingly disgruntled that they weren’t the centre of attention for once.

Rachael Tallents Egypt

Standing in the main hall of Karnak temple, I was captivated listening to our guide speak of ancient rituals, traditions and how nature and astronomy were the guide to the lives and afterlife of this intriguing civilisation. While Luxor and Karnak temples are vast, it was when visiting the mortuary tombs of the west bank of the River Nile that made me realise the significance of the afterlife to the ancient Egyptians. We glimpsed into the mysterious underworld of this culture as we descended into the tombs of the Pharaohs. Intricate hieroglyphics and carvings filled the walls, as Ahmed described the rituals of the preparation for the afterlife and the treasures stored with the bodies. Having our own Egyptologist was a special experience and one I would recommend to anyone.

The young, saffron-robed monks lit the room with a spark of giggles and chatter as they entered.

Soon, every seat was filled and the chanting began. Quietly at first but it became almost deafening as the anticipation of breakfast built. The chanting subsided as everyone had a bowl, plate and mug filled with steaming hot food and drinks. I noticed one group of boys had brought a large, black beetle with them. As if this was totally normal, it sat in between the bowls of curry and cups of chai. It was an unusual breakfast guest, but I couldn’t help but compare my own children to the young monks who were playing with the beetle. A five year old is still a five year old, regardless of whether you live in a monastery in Bhutan or in the south west of England. I guess the difference is whether you have a huge, live beetle around or have to make do with a slug to scare your poor brother.

Charlotte Lawton India

Sue Grimwood Brazil

Kate Hitchen Bhutan

The best time to visit the Mehrangarh Fort is after 5pm; the sun casts the last of its soft, orange rays over the city and the public have dispersed. Standing on the ramparts overlooking the city is quite the experience. The highlight has to be when you enter the Phool Mahal (Rose Palace) – a beautifully decorated hall where Maharajas come to relax and be entertained by female dancers. A single musician sits in the corner playing the Indian santoor, an ancient folk instrument thought to have originated in Persia. While he plays, the lights are turned off and the room becomes lit by simple candlelight. The combination of the environment, atmosphere and music is utterly spellbinding and incredibly moving.

It’s easy to appreciate the stories of those who believe in the power of Indian classical music to stir, thrill and inspire.

The noise that emanates from a large waterfall creates an immense sense of anticipation as you make your way towards the viewpoint. Make no mistake, Iguazu is the most impressive waterfall in the world and to witness it is as mesmerising as it is enthralling. At over 2.4 kilometres wide comprising 275 separate falls, this cascading phenomenon can be seen from a multitude of angles. The Argentine side alone has many kilometres of trails for visitors to witness water falling in various forms. For me, the most magnificent is the ‘Devil’s Throat’ which, from a long boardwalk, can be witnessed in incredibly close proximity.

Paul Bird Argentina

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MEMORABLE MOMENTS

Roxy Dukes Galapagos Islands

I unzip my tent, the brisk air wakes me like a soothing alarm. The hazy morning sun peeks above the thick treetops shrouded in mist. I spy a Thermos of hot coffee waiting on the deck, a kind touch from my guide to ease the early hour. I don my boots and scramble up the hill to our meeting point. A silent nod and smile are all that pass between us. We journey through the island’s forest tracks, remaining quiet as the bellowing symphony of birdsong surrounds us. Before long we reach our destination: the Sierra Negra volcanic crater. As I emerge at the rim, I’m able to finally take in the scale of this incredible landscape, sweeping far out into the distance. The juxtaposition of crisp black lava encircled by rich green vegetation is breathtaking. It feels as though I’m witnessing both the beginning and end of Darwin’s Galapagos – merging together in one magnificent scene.

Secured in a harness, I glide effortlessly into the canopy of the Baco tree. Being comfortable with heights, I was more excited with every metre I rose. Once secured at the top, I started to take in my surroundings. Immediately, the 360-degree view took me to the world of monkeys and birds, I wasn’t just an observer here. I laid down on the intricate netting and listened to the birds chirping and leaves rustling. Then, even more movement in the trees: a troop of spider monkeys headed our way. As they passed below me, I wondered at their agility and ease within the trees. Maybe I wasn’t quite part of their world just yet; I hadn’t even climbed up the tree myself. As they swung away, my eyes drifted to the setting sun. Mother Nature was certainly putting on a good show. As the gentle sun shone on my face I reminded myself to be grateful and live in the now. I will remember this day as the day my soul was recharged.

Amy Hastie Vietnam

Clare Higginson Costa Rica

My senses are in overdrive. I’m standing in the middle of Hoi An’s central market and, whilst it’s still early, there’s activity everywhere with many locals starting their day here. I can hear the chatter of produce sellers and the distant sound of mopeds, I can see a mouth-watering selection of fresh fruit and vegetables and I can smell a blend of aromatic spices drifting through the air. Henry, my guide, takes the time to explain the common ingredients found in Vietnamese cooking. We purchase various produce from market stalls, ready for a cooking class at Tra Que Vegetable Village. The market was the perfect start to my day – a taste of life in Hoi An. Arriving in the village is like stepping into an oasis. A local farmer greets us and presents each of us with a traditional bamboo hat. “A farmer’s uniform,” he says with a wide smile. As we tour the grounds, we pick various spices and herbs ready to get cooking.

Bike checked, saddle height checked, brakes checked. Before long, I had been converted – ebike is the way to go. I am not terribly fit and I was zooming along like Mark Cavendish. The thrill of not much effort but incredible wildlife sightings from cycling through the bush was tremendous. It was such a different experience from being in a game drive vehicle. The wind on your face as you cycle through a landscape you didn’t think possible was exhilarating.

Deborah Cook Kenya

34 Steppes Traveller | 2024

MEMORABLE MOMENTS

Alison Frusher Costa Rica

I’ve been lucky to travel far and wide during my 30+ years working in the travel industry and there are too many highlights. I’ve picked my son’s favourite travel experience. At age eight we were able to return to Costa Rica for our family holiday. We stayed at Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge in the Golf Dulce. William was able to kayak in the Pacific Ocean, try his hand at sea fishing and build dens and dams. He found a coconut on the beach and before long he’d made coconut and chocolate cookies, which he proudly presented to guests at dinner that evening. He spoke no Spanish and the chef no English, but they formed an unlikely friendship. If we couldn’t find him, he was always busy and happy in the kitchen. When it was time to leave, he cried as he didn’t want to go home!

By far, one of my most amazing experiences was a helicopter flight from a remote sandy beach in the Kimberleys, flying over the Hunter River to the beautiful four-tiered Mitchell Falls. The view from the air was just awesome. The sun was beating down on the endless weave of mangroves, tributaries with their turquoise water, deep green foliage and coral rocks. On landing we swam in the top pool of the falls – cooling and unashamedly ‘Crocodile Dundee’. It’s impossible to swim in the sea in these parts due to the high density of saltwater crocodiles – they’re difficult to spot, but they’re definitely there!

On our flight back to the beach our pilot had some fun. Our helicopter had no open doors, so we were swooping low over the wilderness. It was an incredible way to experience these vast and otherworldly landscapes.

Katie Jones Canada

Kate Burnell Australia

My alarm goes off at 3am; I pull on my snow boots and sub-zero coat before heading to the viewing platform close to my lodge. Standing in the freezing cold, looking up at the dark skies glittering with stars, we wait, we wait and we wait. Finally, out of nowhere we see them: the Northern Lights. A dazzling show of greens, blues and yellows, like a moving painting; a moment I will never forget. Despite the cold, I feel so privileged to be here and witness this spectacular natural phenomenon. The following morning around a hearty breakfast, we reminisce over the incredible experience we shared in the early hours of the morning. There’s something beautiful about wild places, where your movements are dictated by nature.

When travelling in Rajasthan, we experienced one of those unplanned and surprising moments. Lucky to be staying at Shahpura Bagh, we jumped into their Land Rover and headed off to a crumbling fort, high up on the hill of the family’s estate. Here we sat, drank chai and watched the town in the distance come alive as the local communities went about their post work business. Markets opening, sparkling lights showing off small cafes and street stalls, a buzz of daily life. Our guide, who also came from the neighbouring village, indulged our endless questions about his family, the area and life in general. What a generous host in a magical setting.

Sally Walters India

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THE

GRAND TOUR

A Grand Tour. A Great Escape. A sanctuary from daily life, enchanting lands with captivating stories that will sweep you off your feet.

The concept was born in the 17th century. Young aristocrats would embark on a journey to explore the cultural heritage of the continent for education and cultural refinement. Today, it’s better. It’s more exciting.

It’s grand travel.

Live and breathe this legacy and create your own. Experience a new palette of flavours, a new spectrum of colours. Explore every market, admire every artwork, taste every wine.

Connect to the world’s immeasurable heritage. Conjure curiosity and ignite creativity. Find your passions and purpose and discover the glory of being different. The glory of being yourself.

36 Steppes Traveller | 2024

LIVING A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED Big Idea Four

Central Asia: Silk Well Spun 22 days, 5 countries, 4 border crossings and endless UNESCO sites. This epic journey across Central Asia is designed to satisfy the wanderlust of the most intrepid travellers.

It’s not for the faint of heart: explore the rarely visited corners of the five Stans, immersing yourself in nomadic culture and rich Silk Road history. Cross borders, break down barriers and change your perceptions. Everyone says the world is getting smaller, but travel to Central Asia and you’ll see what a wonderfully diverse world we live in.

Spend a night under canvas in a traditional yurt, surrounded by dramatic gorges and the picturesque Issyk Kul Lake in Kyrgyzstan; continue to Tajikistan, a wild, often forgotten corner of the globe with a fascinating history; and discover colourful bazaars, UNESCO sites and architectural gems in Uzbekistan.

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THE GRAND TOUR - SILK WELL SPUN

YOUR JOURNEY

From: £5,980 per person, excluding international flights.

Start your journey

Days 12-13

Bishkek - Burana - Issyk-Kul View the 11th-century Burana Tower at Issyk-Kul.

Tashkent - Samarkand Train journey to the UNESCO World Heritage city of Samarkand. A guided city tour, stopping at Registan Square.

Day 14

Day 3

Issyk-Kul - Karkara See the petroglyphs at Cholpan-Ata. Overnight at Karkara in a riverside yurt camp.

Samarkand - Bukhara En route to Bukhara, visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shakhrisabz.

Days 15-16

Day 4

Karkara - Karakol - Karkara See the colonial period architecture in the city of Karakol.

Bukhara Explore Bukhara, with over 300 mosques, bazaars and enchanting tea houses.

Day 5

Karkara - Almaty (Kazakhstan) Cross the border to Almaty. En route, see the colourful 300-metre high Charyn Canyon.

Days 17-18

Bukhara - Khiva By train, pass through the Kyzl-Kum Desert to Khiva.

Day 19

Days 6-7

Almaty - Dushanbe (Tajikistan) Guided tour of Almaty, visiting Zenkov Cathedral. Flight to Dushanbe.

Khiva - Ashgabat (Turkmenistan) Cross the border into Turkmenistan to explore Kunya-Urgench. Evening flight to Ashgabat.

Days 8-9

Dushanbe - Khujand Explore Hissor Fort and the 19-metre reclining Buddha in Nirvana. Drive to Khujand, founded by Alexander the Great.

Day 20

Ashgabat - Mary Discover Ashgabat’s bountiful markets and museums. Flight to Mary.

Days 21-22

Days 10-11

Khujand - Tashkent (Uzbekistan) Cross into Uzbekistan. Explore Tashkent’s madrasah and Chorsu bazaar.

Mary - Ashgabat Visit the ancient site of Merv and the ruins of Anau Mosque. Return to Ashgabat.

Day 1

Arrive Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) Guided city tour, including a trip to the bustling bazaar.

Day 2

Time for home or the next chapter of your adventure.

Follow the route ALMATY URGENCH

TASHKENT

BUKHARA ASHGABAT

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KHUJAND SAMARKAND

MERV

DUSHANBE

BISHKEK

KARAKOL

MORE GRAND TOUR IDEAS

El Salvador, Nicaragua & Costa Rica For the ultimate Grand Tour through Central America, travel overland between the smallest and largest of the region’s countries. El Salvador sets the tone; small in size but mighty in terms of its variety and impact. A watery border crossing leads to the shores of Nicaragua and incredible landscapes of lakes, volcanic islands and Pacific coastal beaches. Conclude your journey in Costa Rica, exploring the jungle canopies in Arenal. All three countries are bursting with wildlife, epic volcanic scenery, UNESCO sites, colonial history and remote communities.

Europe Europe lends itself beautifully to a Grand Tour. Cross borders, travel slowly and soak up the cultures, historical sites, traditions, landscapes and cuisines. Hire a car and discover some of the quieter regions; wind down your window and revel in the gentle breeze as you pass lavender and sunflower fields and meander through snow-capped mountains and beach-lined clifftops.

For minimal hassle, travel with a private driver. Alternatively, train routes throughout Europe are increasing all the time, with comfortable sleeper trains linking cities, or take to the water travelling between islands in Greece and Croatia. Some of our favourite Grand Tours have combined Greece, Malta and Sicily, and France, Turkey and Croatia.

Malawi, Mozambique & Zambia This trans-African adventure celebrates the cultural and natural heritage of three distinct countries. Start in South Luangwa, home of the walking safari, and see Zambia’s iconic wildlife on foot before moving onto Lake Malawi, a wonderful place for snorkelling, kayaking and trekking. Liwonde (Malawi) and Gorongosa (Mozambique) are testaments to the power of conservation, where translocation programmes – alongside community collaboration – have seen lions, cheetah, black rhino and wild dogs thriving across these parks. Finish your transborder adventure whale watching off the coast of Vilanculos in Mozambique.

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EUROPE:

AN AWFULLY

BIG ADVENTURE

by Giles Cross

It started as a pinprick of interest. It’s become my latest obsession: the classic Grand Tour. That romantic, captivating relic, steeped in lore, brought to an enlightened 17th-century audience by Lassels, Addison and Steele; popularised by Locke and Rousseau, by Coryat (with his ‘Crudities’); romanticised, then normalised, by the perennially pleasing Byron and Forster – my kind of people – and then discarded beyond memory.

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Could it still have relevance? Could it, if revisited, deliver something valuable?

Something lost? Is it ‘doable’ and, for a sector and pastime increasingly under pressure, could it provide answers for the future of travel?

I think so. This initiation gave inspiration for the student ‘gap year’, for interrailing and the modern day ‘city break’; that spawned the very idea of travel as a means to personal growth.

At its zenith, the Grand Tour was a journey undertaken by young, wealthy Europeans seeking to enrich their education through first-hand experience of art, architecture, literature and culture; by engaging in intellectual discussion, by attending social events and by refining their tastes.

Typically covering centres such as Paris, Venice, Athens, Florence, Istanbul and Rome, travellers immersed themselves in the rich tapestry of European society.

It was less of a sightseeing excursion and more of a journey, one which shaped the perspectives and sensibilities of those who embarked upon it, the key deliverable being the cultivation of a well-rounded, cosmopolitan individual: a rite of passage, obvious in its allure.

It was a meticulously planned affair with travellers often hiring tutors and guides to navigate the complexities of foreign cultures and languages. Duration varied, but it was not uncommon for the tour to last anywhere from six months to several years, depending only on resources and ambition.

Its lustre faded. From the early 1800s a confluence of circumstances – social, economic and political – brought changes in habit and appetite. War, unrest, industrialisation, urbanisation, changes in transport and education, the rise of nationalism, the evolution of leisure pursuits and, indeed, a cultural backlash against excess and elitism, all contributed to a fading appeal and its ultimate decline.

However, the spirit of cultural exploration and intellectual enrichment is still very much alive, more so maybe in an era where the trend seems to increasingly ‘dumb down’, and, in a world where geopolitical unrest presides, where accelerated change is a constant and where confusion reigns supreme; is there not a greater need for cultural understanding? For us all to be ‘closer’? Coupled with our 21st-century obsession with self awareness and personal betterment, the relevance is definitely there.

That said, does a Grand Tour of Europe, a geography we seemingly know so well, still have appeal? Have we not seen it all? Wouldn’t the instant availability of information and our digitally driven requirement for immediacy simply reduce what is a romantic notion and totem of the past to a succession of shallow, destination focused weekends away?

I don’t think so.

Doing it properly requires time. It’s an investment. It demands immersion and, in that, we find the answer. Whilst Europe may be familiar to many, a Grand Tour encourages travellers to discover the unknown within well-known. It involves the finding of hidden gems and the unearthing of nuance and treasures that can so easily escape attention. That’s hugely exciting.

The thrill of the unfamiliar is definitely there.

What’s more, that requirement of time, that investment, delivers something truly special: time itself. Time spent. A pricelessly precious thing that busy-bee, modern day living seems to voraciously forbid us.

Mercifully, a Grand Tour is now far more accessible than it once was. What was once a logistical endeavour of majestic proportions has been made easier by the advent of tour operators who can arrange accommodation, curate itineraries, identify the best guides and arrange connections.

The availability of information, the digitalisation of documentation and the ability to fuse modern and traditional modes of transport all make for a perfect mix, a delicious smorgasbord of delights.

For the environmentally conscious, it offers a modern and sustainable alternative to long-haul travel, thereby helping protect the perpetuation of travel itself. We’re told we must travel less. I believe we must travel better; and by focusing on a specific region, by spending longer ‘in destination’, by reducing air travel, ‘Grand Tourers’ can minimise their carbon footprint, add value to local economies and help deliver the universal benefits that good travel provides.

It may be that the answer to the future exists in this relic of the past.

But who really has time? Who can afford to travel for 6-18 months at a time these days. Isn’t that just for students?

We live in an age of transcendence, only amplified and accelerated by the recent pandemic. Doing things, feeling things, has become more important. We want to ‘be’ again and that’s made evident by the behaviour of the recently retired; those desperate to recapture lost opportunity, to live the lives they have left. People are making time. They want to travel more and for longer. To me that seems just right.

And who says a Grand Tour has to be done in one go? Aren’t all great adventures episodic? Why not relocate to Istanbul for three weeks this summer and live like a local? Paris the year after? Then Vienna?

Athens? Why not turn a Grand Tour into your Grand Plan? The more I think about it, the more exciting it gets. For the culturally curious, it’s surely a ‘must do’.

Go on tour. It’ll be grand.

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THE

CULTURAL TRIP

Open doors to a world of wonder. Go beyond the typical tourist attractions and delve into the heart of a destination. Immerse yourself in rich heritage. Untangle the threads of history, art and tradition. Unravel what it means to be human. Enrich your soul and broaden your mind. Connect to the land on which you walk, building stronger relationships with people and planet.

Seek culture and peer into its soul. Engage with local communities, sample authentic cuisine, and participate in traditional ceremonies. Discover a new understanding and appreciation of different ways of life, find moments and hear stories that will leave you feeling transformed, gaining a perspective that will transcend borders and stereotypes.

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LIVING A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED Big Idea Five

Southeast Asia: Di Vong Vong Style We travel to understand how others live, to celebrate their differences and to appreciate their way of life, their beliefs, their traditions and to learn from their history. This holiday is perfect for the curious travellers and foodies who want to get under the skin of Southeast Asia, meeting with its communities who hold a strong sense of identity. Experiencing their country from their perspectives is one of the joys of travelling in this part of the world.

Combine Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in this two-week adventure, connecting with those who are passionate about their country, cuisine and traditions, who are custodians of their culture ensuring that it continues to thrive in the hands of generations to come. Experience immersive and joyful encounters with local characters, sample flavourful delicacies and home cooked recipes, and explore celebrated sites away from the crowds, ensuring you have that magic moment.

Stay in properties with a real sense of place, from the historic grandeur of Raffles hotels to a rural stilted retreat and an eclectic boutique hideaway. Explore cities and towns Di Vong Vong style (exploring on foot or by scooter with friends and family), watching as they come to life in the evenings. Wind through back streets and paddy fields on foot, by ox cart, scooter, bike and tuk-tuk before meandering through rivers by fishing boat and bamboo coracle. Travel like a local in this fun and liberating itinerary, gaining unique insight into local livelihoods and culture.

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THE CULTURAL TRIP - DI VONG VONG STYLE

YOUR JOURNEY

From: £8,695 per person excluding international flights.

Start your journey

Day 1

Hanoi (Vietnam) Take a bespoke city tour ending in a water puppet show and a walking street food tour.

Day 2

Hanoi Spend the day with villagers in rural Vietnam, visit remote markets and explore Hanoi at night by e-scooter.

Days 3-4

Hoi An Fly to Danang, and onto Hoi An. Live like a local, learning fishing and farming, meeting artisans. Explore Hoi An on foot, sampling street food, visiting ancestral homes and hidden pagodas.

Days 5-6

Saigon Fly to Saigon. Connect with a local artist, explore the city by cyclo and sidecar and savour evenings with Vietnamese coffee and local beer.

Day 7

Phnom Penh (Cambodia) Explore Vietnamese coffee production in the morning, then fly to Phnom Penh for an evening food tour by tuk-tuk.

Day 8

Phnom Penh Discover city highlights, meet a Toul Sleng survivor and explore the Mekong by boat and bike. Experience a unique afternoon with celebrated gourmand Chef Nak at her riverbank home.

Day 9

Siem Reap Fly to Siem Reap and enjoy an evening visit to the Cambodian circus.

Days 10-11

Siem Reap Explore temples at sunrise and sunset with a renowned Cambodian archaeologist, and venture into remote rural landscapes to uncover the essence of Buddhist culture.

Days 12-14

Bangkok (Thailand) Fly to Bangkok. Spend time with a fivegeneration Thai aristocratic family for a unique perspective of Bangkok, and dine at a rooftop restaurant.

Time for home or the next chapter of your adventure.

Follow the route HANOI

HOI AN

BANGKOK

SIEM REAP

PHNOM PENH SAIGON

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MORE CULTURAL TRIP IDEAS

Japan In a land where politeness is shown through noodle slurping and strolling with a meal is considered impolite, Japan boasts a captivating culture that seamlessly blends modernity with ancient traditions. Amidst the intersection of the contemporary and the time-honoured, the country reveals a tapestry of unique quirks.

Beyond the obvious attractions, a journey to Japan can unveil a plethora of engaging and fun traditions, ranging from hands-on manga training and blacksmith lessons with a master swordsmith to an insider’s look at a genuine sumo ‘stable’ and the opportunity to immerse yourself in the rhythmic beats of traditional Japanese drumming.

Canada Known as the ‘Canadian Galapagos’ for its endemic wildlife, Haida Gwaii is a remote archipelago off the northern coast of British Columbia and a place of great cultural significance, natural beauty and ecological importance. It offers a unique opportunity to experience the rich heritage of the Haida people who have inhabited these islands for more than 14,000 years. For a privileged insight into this ancient culture, journey with cultural expert Gaajiiaawa Linda Tollas to Haida village sites, hot springs and Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve where moss-draped cedars and the stories of ancestral connections between the land, sea and people are narrated through ancient totem poles.

Morocco Just a three hour flight from the UK, Morocco opens a window into another world. The white washed walls of Fez in the north offer a contrast to the rose-red ramparts of Marrakech. The city’s UNESCO World Heritage medina is made up of over 9,000 twisting, narrow streets which are home to communities of skilled artisans. Dare to get lost, literally and metaphorically, and be transported back in time alongside laden donkeys and the smells and sounds of ancient crafts. From blacksmiths to potters, leather workers and book binders, this is the authentic, unhurried life of Morocco – a community of dedicated tradespeople preserving rich traditions.

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EASTERN TURKEY:

THE LAND BETWEEN

TWO RIVERS

by Justin Wateridge

As we drive through fields of cotton, potatoes, wheat, corn and pumpkin, we cross the Tigris. A river of huge historical significance, but whose modern-day stature has been contained to little more than an irrigation canal. I had entered Mesopotamia. The land between two rivers, the land between the Tigris and the Euphrates.

The fertile crescent, the cradle of civilisation.

We stop in Dara (Anastasiopolis), a dusty Kurdish village home to a former Roman defensive outpost, garrisoned by Emperor Anastasius in AD 507. Its ruins lie scattered around the village, with many of the original stone being reclaimed into villagers’ houses. Yet there’s still enough standing – huge stone gates and stone irrigation canals – to appreciate Dara.

I gingerly negotiate the 50 steps down into the murky darkness of the city’s underground cistern. Reaching the bottom, I stare upwards in awe. This wasn’t an underground cistern. This was an underground ‘cathedral’ with 20-metre arches soaring above me.

I was surprised by the lack of entrance fee. Elsewhere, such a site would be a celebrity; in Eastern Turkey it’s a postscript among the mind-blowing wealth of antiquities.

Diyarbakir, meaning ‘Place of the Bakr’, takes its present name from the Arab tribe, the Beni Bakr. The great Old City is enclosed within five and a half kilometres of black basalt walls dating back

46 Steppes Traveller | 2024

to AD 297, when the city was annexed to the Roman Empire.

Successive Byzantine, Arab, Kurdish and Turkish dynasties have renovated and strengthened these walls.

Walking on the ramparts, overlooking the plateau far below, I get a sense of the sway of the dominion, but it was inside the Mardin Gate that I shivered at the imagined history. Three channels of a series of five metre high arches and columns. The noise as you rode into town on horseback must have reverberated around the cool, dark walls to deafening effect.

Within the city walls I visit an Armenian church, a Chaldean church and several mosques within quick succession. Diyarbakır has more historical mosques, churches and other notable buildings than any other Turkish city, except Istanbul. Unsurprisingly it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

As I look out over the Euphrates, I savour the sweet, freshly squeezed pomegranate juice from a smiley, local farmer. I would need the energy to push me to the 2,206 metre summit of Mt Nemrut. Here Antiochus, an insignificant local Commagene ruler, had delusions of grandeur in his burial monument. The bodies of five stone statues are eight–nine metres high. Antiochus had the temerity to seat himself amongst the divine figures of Apollo, a Commegene fertility goddess, Zeus and Hercules.

The heads of the statues, long since toppled to the ground by the ravages of time, were smaller than I’d imagined but were still an impressive two–three metres high. Their unseeing stone eyes stared blankly out over the dramatic vista below. It’s the majesty of the setting, remote and inaccessible, which gives this bizarre burial monument a surreal feel.

We descend through a stunning riverine gorge, with great slabs of grey limestone protruding from the yellow earth at awkward angles.

The landscape softens into a steppe environment, much of which is under cultivation: tobacco, pomegranate, pistachio and almonds.

We arrive at Sanliurfa, or Urfa as it’s known locally. I rub shoulders with families out for a late afternoon stroll around the carp pools.

I wander through the Daragh complex of mosques, the moon a backdrop to the minaret as birds begin to roost. I dive into the tightly packed bazaar and quickly seek refuge in Gumruk Han, a caravanserai. I sip a mouth-watering cup of pistachio coffee as the sun starts to set.

The next morning, we climb up the mound of Gobekli Tepe, the highest point on the limestone plateau. The light wind rustles the yellow grass sprouting from limestone rocks, rows of olive trees line the hillside and chirping birds serenade us.

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The Turkish words mean, pot-bellied hill, – not a marketeer’s first choice of name for one of the most important sites in history. Gobekli Tepe changed history. Not because it predates Stonehenge by 6,000 years, but because previous thinking had thought man to be nomadic at this time.

We headed back to Sanliurfa’s extraordinary museum to try to better understand why this is one of the most startling monuments on the planet. An educational and revelatory experience in time travel, the various exhibition halls effortlessly transported me between Palaeolithic times to 330 BC and the Hellenic period.

Perhaps most intriguing of all was the 11,000 year old Urfa statue, the oldest known life-size human sculpture in the world to have survived intact. With a V-shaped necklace, hands clasped together at the waist and an almost robotic head, the statue stares out with his black, obsidian eyes.

Next door is the Amazon Mosaic Museum, whose mosaics were only discovered in 2006 when a bulldozer was clearing the ground for a new theme park. Two years of careful excavations brought to life an opulent 12-room villa, thought to belong to a senior official of the Roman Byzantine empire. Whilst experts have called them the world’s most valuable mosaics, I was struck by the unusual: an Amazon warrior queen, one breast bare to allow for better fighting, and a reluctant zebra being led on a halter.

I thought I’d had my fill of museums, but I was not accounting for the Zeugma Mosaic Museum in Gaziantep.

Rising through the ranks, Alexander the Great’s General Seleucus became total ruler of Asia Minor and Mesopotamia, founding the eponymous Seluccid empire. The Euphrates was key to his empire.

Seleucus founded a city on both banks of the river, linked by a stone bridge. Zeugma, meaning bridge, was the largest city in the

48 Steppes Traveller | 2024

eastern empire and was of huge strategic importance and a centre of wealth. Zeugma’s legacy is now confined to the museum, the dazzling beauty of a wealth of mosaics a tribute to its glory.

The jewel in the crown of the museum is the ‘Portrait of the Gypsy Girl’, the mosaic Mona Lisa, with a captivating gaze that follows you around the room. I was flabbergasted by the optical effects of some of the other mosaics. In an Achilles mosaic, the figures lean to the right but the columns in the background are straight, creating the impression of movement. In others, geometrical patterns create the illusion of dimension. Even without the aid of water – many of the mosaics would have been at the bottom of shallow pools – many of the images danced entrancingly.

“There are more, better mosaics in Antioch,” Sabahattin remarked matter-of-factly.

I have to come back.

PERUVIAN AMAZON

AQUA NERA

GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

AQUA MARE

PERUVIAN AMAZON

ARIA AMAZON

INDONESIA

VIETNAM & CAMBODIA

AQUA BLU

AQUA MEKONG

EMBARK ON AN ADVENTURE OF A LIFETIME TA IL O R - M AD E E X PE R IE N C ES

EL EGA N T P ER S ONAL A N D S O C I A L SP ACES

w w w .a q ua e x pe dit io n s . c o m

U LTI MATE LU XU RY AND COMFORT

W ORLD-CLASS DI NING

@ a qu a _ e x p e dit io n s

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GROUP TOUR - INDIA

KUMBH MELA

FESTIVAL 2025

A rare opportunity to experience the largest religious festival in the world. Kumbh Mela is the apogee of Hindu worship in a country renowned for the vibrancy of its people and religious festivals.

Be prepared for the pulsating energy generated by 120 million pilgrims, all looking for salvation by submerging themselves in the holy Sangam. If things become a little too intense, seek sanctuary in our private, well-appointed camp, which will be your base for the duration of your time at Kumbh Mela.

You’ll be guided throughout your Kumbh experience by Lakshmi Sing, who is a spiritual disciple of two great Advait philosophy masters. To borrow a great quote, Kumbh Mela is “a riddle wrapped in mystery inside an enigma,” so an experience of this nature requires the likes of Lakshmi to make sense of it all. Her intimate connections with Hinduism allow her to arrange an audience with several sadhus, sages, yogis and gurus. To gain such an insight and to be a part of something so spiritually auspicious will leave an indelible impression.

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This exclusive group tour spends two days in Delhi followed by two days in Varanasi before travelling to Allahabad for Kumbh Mela.

Following the Kumbh you’ll travel to Kolkata to spend two nights at the inimitable Glenburn Penthouse, using this outstanding property as your base for guided excursions around India’s most intriguing mega city.

FACT FILE Duration 9 days

Who is this tour for?

This is an exceptional opportunity for anybody wanting to expand their knowledge of Hinduism and experience the largest gathering of worshippers anywhere on Earth. The festival is a vibrant and, at times, startling manifestation of devotion; a perfect opportunity for photographers wanting to capture the essence of spirituality and worship. The festival is bookended by escorted tours of two of India’s most beguiling cities: Varanasi and Kolkata.

What is the Kumbh Mela?

‘The Kumbh’ celebrates and commemorates the triumph of the Gods over the demons in the battle for Amrit, the nectar of immortality. During the battle, as depicted in Vedic scriptures, four drops of nectar fell to the earth; a drop each on the cities of Allahabad, Haridwar, Nashik and Ujjain. Over the centuries, pilgrims have celebrated the triumph of good over evil by bathing in the rivers near the four locations where the Amrit is said to have fallen. It’s believed that taking a

Dates

January 21st - 29th 2025

Group size

12 people plus a representative from Steppes Travel.

Cost

£7,795 per person based on a twin share, including all transport, food, excursions and tipping.

dip in the Sangam (the holy confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati) at Allahabad during the Kumbh Mela will cleanse pilgrims of all their sins and grant an escape from the endless cycle of reincarnation by paving a path for salvation (known as Moksha).

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KUMBH MELA FESTIVAL 2025

YOUR JOURNEY January 22nd

Arrive Delhi

January 23rd

Delhi city tour

January 24th

Delhi – Varanasi.

Experience an aarti ceremony on the river Ganges at sunset.

January 25th

Varanasi – Allahabad Take a boat on the Ganges to watch early morning prayer rituals followed by a walking tour of old Varanasi.

Drive to Allahabad (Prayagraj), the home of Kumbh Mela and check in to your camp.

January 26th 27th

Guided excursions around Kumbh Mela’s auspicious sites Our expert guides will be on hand to interpret the many layers of symbolic ritual, giving you an understanding of why this festival that takes place once every 12 years is the ultimate spiritual quest for millions of Hindus.

Follow the route

January 28th

Full day exploring Kolkata with a private guide Early morning tour of the flower market before visiting Metcalfe Hall, Bomti’s for lunch, Park Street Cemetery and Victoria Memorial.

January 29th

Early morning tour of the flower market before visiting Metcalfe Hall, Park Street Cemetery and Victoria Memorial Lunch will be at Bomti’s in the historic Chowringhee district, where the home-cooked Bengali food is some of the best in Kolkata.

January 30th

The tour ends in Kolkata.

Time for home or the next chapter of your adventure.

52 Steppes Traveller | 2024

Images: Naga Kutir

DELHI

PRAYAGRAJ

KOLKATA

Start your journey

We treat all our clients the same.

Differently.

Hampden & Co is unlike other banks. We are a bank that knows you as a person, not as an account number. We take the time to have proper conversations, to understand you and the full picture of your finances, so we can tailor our services to meet your needs. To find out what it feels like to be looked after by your bank, please contact Banking Director, Samantha Dunne.

020 3841 7483 07487 802695 samantha.dunne@hampdenandco.com

hampdenandco.com Banking - Lending - Deposits Hampden & Co plc Registered office 9 Charlotte Square, Edinburgh EH2 4DR Registered in Scotland No SC386922 Authorised by the Prudential Regulation Authority and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority

GROUP TOUR - CANADA

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SAILING THE

GREAT BEAR RAINFOREST Paul Goldstein took this shot when guiding on the Island Roamer, sailing along the Great Bear Rainforest in British Colombia. The image was ‘highly commended’ in the European Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2023, Mammal category.

We’re delighted to offer you an opportunity to travel with Paul on the Island Roamer in British Columbia in September 2024, on our exclusive photography tour.

Speak to our experts to check availability.

Start your journey

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THE

TREK

Mountains offer solace for weary minds. Deserts allow you to breathe for what feels like the first time. Jungles ignite the soul. Trekking gets you there. Amidst the tranquility of nature, you’ll find a sanctuary from the hustle of daily life and discover landscapes that revitalise your senses.

Trekking isn’t just a physical journey; it’s an awakening for both mind and heart. In those unexplored trails, you’ll find more than just breathtaking vistas; you’ll discover new strength in the present.

Each step echoes a profound lesson: in patience, in perseverance, in the sheer power of human spirit. Trekking through the wilderness is not only an adventure, but a transformative experience that will inspire you to reach new heights. To go further. To see more.

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LIVING A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED Big Idea Six

India: Walking with Giants Up beyond the mountains lies the former kingdom of Ladakh. So high it’s unreachable to the monsoon clouds, Ladakh is great for trekking in the summer months when the rest of India is deluged. If you’re intrigued by the unusual, adore isolated mountain regions, seek to immerse yourself in Buddhist culture and wish to gain a more intimate connection with people and place, this is for you. You may have travelled to India before but, with this trip, you’ll be sure to return home with a wealth of new stories to tell and to hold dear.

Trek through Himalayan villages meeting with the remote communities who make the mountains their summer home. Take guided walks through ancient towns and cities, visiting monasteries that date back to the 11th century; absorb a colourful procession of frescoes, stupas, thangkas, murals and giant gold-gilded statues of Buddha. Embark on a journey seated on a double-humped Bactrian camel across the austere yet beautiful high-altitude Hundar Desert.

Experience the 1,000 Butter Lamp Ceremony at Shey, a highly spiritual and symbolic ritual in which Buddhist monks light lamps to banish darkness, and dine with a Ladakhi family in Ulley, a community whose views on snow leopards have been transformed by conservation and tourism. Traverse the highest motorable pass from Leh to Nubra, at a dizzying height of 5,600 metres. On a journey that delivers spectacular sights every day, Nubra Valley is arguably the most magnificent landscape of all with its colossal mountains, wide-open valleys and uninhabited hinterlands. Spend your last night at Stok Palace, abode of the Namgyal dynasty – a fitting end to an extraordinary adventure.

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THE TREK - WALKING WITH GIANTS

YOUR JOURNEY

From: £5,995 per person excluding international flights.

Start your journey

Day 1

Delhi Overnight at an airport hotel.

Day 2

Delhi – Leh Fly to Leh. Acclimatisation day.

Day 3

Leh Drive to Likir and Alchi monasteries.

Day 4

Ulley Trek from Yangthang to Ulley visiting the community of Saspotse and traversing Chagatse La Pass.

Day 5

Tingmosgang Walk to Hemis Shukpachan village via Tsermangchan La Pass. Trek over Meptak La Pass to reach the villages of Ang and Namra.

Day 6

Thiksey Visit Hemis and Thiksey Monastery with its famous Maitrya Buddha statue.

Day 7

Thiksey 1,000 Butter Lamp Ceremony at Shey.

In the afternoon take a guided walking tour around the old city of Leh.

Day 8

Leh – Nubra Drive from Leh to Nubra crossing the world’s highest motorable pass, Khardung La.

Day 9

Nubra Explore Hundar and Disket monasteries. Take a camel trek across the high-altitude Hundar Desert.

Day 10

Nubra Explore the remote outpost of Turtuk – India’s northernmost village, close to the Line of Control between India and Pakistan.

Day 11

Nubra – Leh Drive to Leh via the Wari La Pass stopping at Skati village. On your last night in Ladakh, stay at Stok Palace.

Day 12-13

Leh – Delhi Fly from Leh to Delhi. Overnight in Delhi.

Time for home or the next chapter of your adventure.

Follow the route

TURKTUK HEMIS SHUKPACHAN LEH

NEW DELHI

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WARI LA PASS

MORE TREKKING IDEAS

Georgia A perfect canvas for a walking holiday. Springtime sees the arrival of wild flowers to the slopes of the Caucasus Mountains, whilst in summer the high passes remain a vivid green. In under five hours you can immerse yourself in beautiful mountain scenery amidst a culture that’s incredibly diverse but above all, is warm and welcoming. Relinquish your luggage and venture far from civilisation, traversing remote valleys and high altitude passes dotted with medieval churches and watch towers. Spend your nights in village guesthouses, experiencing Georgian hospitality at its best.

Ecuador Chilcabamba Mountain Lodge beckons hikers of all abilities. At 3,200 metres above sea level, this family-run lodge is a world away from the hustle and bustle of Quito. Surrounded by four towering volcanoes, it makes a perfect base for exploring the Andean peaks. Traverse the trails of Pasochoa, Ruminahui and Cotopaxi, the latter being one of the highest active volcanoes in the world, before spending your evenings in the comfort of a wood-burning stove and warming Andean food.

Tanzania Discovering mega fauna while on foot is exhilarating. A walking safari adds a new layer of intimacy to your wildlife experience, not always possible from a vehicle. Nomad’s new expeditionary walking camp is located in the little visited Ugalla National Park in western Tanzania. It’s only here for a few months of the year before returning to the Serengeti plains for the arrival of the migration.

This is old-school, uncomplicated Africa – raw and unadulterated – at its very best.

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PERU:

UNDENIABLY INSIGNIFICANT YET

IRREVOCABLY ALIVE

by Georgia Morley

60 Steppes Traveller | 2024

Tents were taken down in the dark with numb fingers; an early start. The world awakened as my hike started to steepen.

I began to taste the day. The mountain peaks were being blessed by the warmth of the morning sun, a welcoming gold hue promising to kiss away the cold. The valleys below are still adorned with dawn’s bitter frost. The sun was my destination.

I breathed in deeply, but no oxygen quenched my lungs. My muscles begged for rest. I had reached over 5,000 metres, some 16,000 feet in altitude, but I wasn’t there yet. In the shadow of the mountain, I inched forward with each deep but empty breath. High up in the Peruvian Andes, I had met my match. Mind over body. Keep going. Nothing else seemed to matter in these moments, all focus on moving one foot in front of the other. When I got to the top, towering snowy peaks greeted me like an old friend. I felt invincible but welcomed a rock to sit on, basking in the new day’s light. This was the closest to the heavens I had ever been before. I stained this moment into my mind, a memory to keep forever.

As each day passed on this trek, the landscapes gently evolved through the colours of the spectrum. Emerald green plains morphed into icy white glaciers.

Cascading turquoise rivers sliced up the valley. Rocky terrains brought in terracotta tones, the sun dancing off the dust created from my hiking boots treading this ever-changing earth. A crescendo of rain would sweep through the land, cleansing and revitalising. Then the symphony of sunshine would return as if it had never left.

These mountains were in a constant state of flux, keeping me on my toes, ready to dance to its new rhythm. It was now hot and sweaty, despite my tent being frozen over when I woke up that morning. Pamela was walking ahead of me, a Peruvian girl on the same route. We chatted a little,

swapping from English to Spanish. We stopped and listened to the nothingness of the mountains. In front of us a tower stood tall, proud and unwavering. Time seemed to pause for a moment.

‘We must thank her.’ Pamela said softly and reached into her rucksack for a small bag of coca leaves, considered sacred here in Peru. She took out three and held them to her lips. She closed her eyes. The world and I watched quietly as a young woman’s heart gracefully unfolded to the mountain in front of her. She blew into the three leaves and then placed them under a small rock.

She went back into her rucksack, took out three more leaves and turned to me. I took the coca leaves, held them gently to my lips, closed my eyes and allowed gratitude to swell in my chest. It was genuine. The beauty here was unparalleled. The power of Mother Nature and sheer magnitude of these peaks made you feel undeniably insignificant yet irrevocably alive. And with that, I blew my thanks.

Existing alongside the stunning scenery here was a delicate energy that could be read in between the lines of a landscape.

Perhaps it was other travellers’ thanks to the mountains drifting in the wind.

Perhaps it was the spirit of Pacha Mama herself. Or maybe it was the feeling of being reintroduced to yourself, a feeling of coming home. Trekking these rugged pathways gives you new strength, a resilience you didn’t know you had. This journey had swept me away, yet I was feeling more grounded than ever before.

“This was the closest to the heavens I had ever been before. I stained this moment into my mind, a memory to keep forever.”

As the sun set, long shadows were cast through the valleys and the returning chill started to sink into your bones. Colours of pink and orange danced across the horizon; a miraculous display of light, a reminder to stay warm. Dusk was a time to layer up as much as you could as the day’s heat escaped into the endless sky. The moon was full at the start of this trek, but as it waned with each passing day, the stars became less timid. There was no light pollution here. And if the magnificent Andes hadn’t humbled you into a sense of feeling small, then meet the night sky.

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THE

FAMILY HOLIDAY Nothing creates memories like a family holiday. In the fastpaced world we live in, moments of genuine, uninterrupted togetherness can be rare. Family time reconnects, rejuvenates and offers a tonic for the soul.

Travelling exposes individuals, especially children, to diverse cultures, traditions, and perspectives, promoting tolerance and understanding. It enhances knowledge, it teaches kindness. Through travel, families learn the importance of adaptability, patience and teamwork. And perhaps new things about each other.

Family holidays are more than just trips, they’re investments in emotional wealth. They’re stories shared around the dinner table and photographs framed on the wall with laughter, adventure and shared experiences forever forged in collective hearts.

62 Steppes Traveller | 2024

Image: Sea Trek

LIVING A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED Big Idea Seven

Indonesia: Here be Dragons Combining all the necessary ingredients for an unforgettable holiday, this family-focused escape is on the wish list for many of the Steppes team.

Far from the modern world, freewheel through paddy fields and find swashbuckling adventure. Ditch your mobiles and swap the Xbox for real life fantasy. Explore the incredible underwater landscape of the volcanic islands of Komodo, snorkel with manta rays, kayak in craters and discover moss-covered temples.

Start your journey slowly in peaceful Ubud on the island of Bali. Spend your days cycling and exploring markets, or unwinding with a spa treatment while your children play. Up the pace, joining a voyage of discovery through the volcanic epicentre of Indonesia’s Ring of Fire. Listen to stories of how the ancient islands of Komodo were formed and the legend of the Komodo dragon – sure to ignite the children’s fascination.

Spend eight nights aboard a traditional wooden phinisi-style boat alongside like-minded families and two conservationists. Immerse yourselves in the culture of a region unreachable by land and transport the whole family to a classroom like no other with staggering marine experiences.

If time allows, fly north to explore the jungles of Borneo in search of orangutans, proboscis monkeys, hornbills and monitor lizards.

This is the trip that dreams are made of.

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THE FAMILY HOLIDAY - HERE BE DRAGONS

YOUR JOURNEY

From: £6,895 per person, based on a family of four travelling during July & August.

Start your journey

Day 1

Arrive Bali.

Days 2-3

Ubud A few days in Ubud, cycling through Balinese villages, visiting local temples and cooking up Balinese dishes at a cookery class.

Days 4-5

Bali – Komodo Fly to Komodo and transfer to your floating accommodation. Snorkel at a coral restoration project, search for Komodo dragons and swim with manta rays.

Day 6

Komodo Wake up on a beautiful uninhabited island and stroll along its ‘pink beach’.

Cruise to an active volcanic island to meet the local people.

Day 7

Komodo Swim in a sunken crater lake or trek around the crater rim. Finish with an evening beach BBQ whilst thousands of flying foxes fly away to feed.

Day 8

Komodo An early morning dip, kayaking, snorkelling and swimming with whale sharks. Explore the local karst formations.

Day 9

Komodo Cruise and visit Labuan Aji village on the island of Moyo. Walk to a waterfall to bathe.

Day 10

Komodo Snorkel amongst corals emitting volcanic gases, where metallic black sand teems with fascinating sea creatures. A sunset hike for spectacular views.

Day 11

Komodo Visit Rinca Island in search of dragons, monkeys, deer and wild buffaloes.

Day 12

Komodo – Bali A scenic drive to Melo Village to see a ritual ‘whip-fight’ in a traditional Caci dance.

Time for home or the next chapter of your adventure.

Follow the route

BALI

64 Steppes Traveller | 2024

KOMODO

MORE FAMILY HOLIDAY IDEAS

Sri Lanka Compact, diverse and wonderful for travel year round, Sri Lanka makes for a fabulous family holiday destination. Scramble through ancient ruins, walk with elephants, learn to surf or visit a local school and join the children for a cricket match or two.

Combine a week of touring with a stay in a fully-staffed, private villa. In a beachfront location, this promises to be a delightfully relaxing experience for the whole family.

Costa Rica A petite paradise packed with adventure, Costa Rica checks all the boxes for an epic family adventure. Combine activitycentric Arenal with the beautiful, sandy Pacific coast for an exhilarating yet relaxing holiday. Spend your days ziplining, rafting, mountain biking and visiting hot springs. Hear the rumble of the jungle on a night tour, listening out for red-eyed tree frogs, coatis, insects and reptiles, or visit the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge to spot caiman, spider monkeys, sloths and toucans. Move to the Nicoya Peninsula where you can surf and horse ride, as well as observe the mesmerising bioluminescence of the microscopic plankton emitting an otherworldly glow beneath the water’s surface.

South Africa Did you know that elephants are left-or right-handed like us? Or, that a gathering of zebras is called a dazzle while a congregation of rhinoceros is referred to as a crash? As cliche as it may sound, South Africa delivers everything one could wish for from a family holiday. Relaxing, active and effortlessly educational, it offers a raft of opportunities to create truly special memories. Combining the Cape and Kruger showcases the country’s rich culture and wildlife best, while tailored experiences can transform it into a joyous family adventure. From penguins and paddleboarding to the thrill of a bush walk encountering predators and prey, large and small, all accompanied by some of the best guides in the world. Better yet, no malaria and no jet lag!

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PUGLIA

THE WELL-TURNED HEEL OF ITALY

by Kate Hitchen

66 Steppes Traveller | 2024

Puglia. One of Italy’s best-kept secrets. A destination that offers both relaxation and adventure, providing a sumptuous mix of pristine beaches, charming towns, historical landmarks and, without doubt, some of the best food in Italy. Often overshadowed by its more famous neighbours, Puglia ticks all the boxes.

Our adventure began in the enchanting city of Lecce, the ‘Florence of the south’, famous for its stunning Baroque architecture. We were immediately captivated by the narrow, winding streets, ornate facades and the warmth of the local people. It’s the perfect place to start your Puglian journey and, as we explored the city, we couldn’t resist indulging in some local gelato. Our children’s smiling faces said it all.

We continued our journey in the coastal town of Otranto, with its crystal clear waters and inviting beaches. Our boat trip to the nearby Grotta della Poesia was definitely a highlight. A natural swimming pool carved into the rocks, with the cave echoing our laughter - a truly magical experience. Puglia’s coastline is peppered with such hidden gems.

The region is a ‘foodie’ paradise and we took every opportunity we could to savour its culinary delights – traditional, local dishes, incredibly flavoured made with the freshest ingredients and recipes passed down through generations. We visited a local masseria, a traditional Puglian farmhouse – our favourite family experience – and

were treated to a feast of homemade pasta, grilled meats and locally sourced vegetables. It was like a scene from a film.

Our children were particularly smitten with their mini cooking lesson from the chef.

We visited the picturesque, fairytale town of Alberobello with its unique, conicalroofed houses called ‘trulli’, and were enchanted by its quirky architecture before continuing onto the ‘white city’ of Ostuni, with its whitewashed buildings perched on a hill. The panoramic views were nothing short of stunning.

A short drive away, we discovered the coastal gem of Polignano a Mare, perched on dramatic cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea. We indulged in some of the best seafood we’ve ever tasted at a local trattoria where the combination of sea breezes, relaxed eating and fresh food was pure bliss.

Our time in Puglia was more than just a family holiday; it was a journey that brought us closer together. We laughed, explored and experienced the warmth of the Puglian people, creating memories that will stay with us forever.

If you’re in search of a magical family holiday filled with sun, pasta and laughter, consider Puglia. Your heart will thank you.

Your taste buds will be eternally grateful too.

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SPACE TRAVEL Lose yourself in the vast. Savour the unparalleled magnificence of plains, of deserts and prairies. Feel small, taste freedom and welcome new energy.

Experience rare tranquillity. Allow far horizons to create a feeling of infinite space, liberating your mind from the constraints of everyday concerns. The space to breathe deep and centre yourself; to feel the strength of nature’s heartbeat, to observe the dancing of wildflowers in the wind, the flight of noble birds and watch a play of light and shadow as the sun sets.

In open space introspection comes naturally.

It becomes a sanctuary for contemplation, allowing connection between you, your inner self and our remarkable planet.

68 Steppes Traveller | 2024

LIVING A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED Big Idea Eight

Kyrgyzstan: Perfect Steppes When you travel outside of your comfort zone, the discoveries you make can be as much about yourself as the places you visit. If you’re a traveller who likes to be extraordinary, challenging, spontaneous and fun, who prioritises unspoilt wilderness, then our trip to Kyrgyzstan is likely to be your most fulfilling holiday yet.

In a world that’s becoming overcrowded, now is the time to visit places which offer the luxury of space. Kyrgyzstan has this in abundance, along with spectacular alpine lakes, mountains and a rich narrative of Silk Road history and culture.

Journey along the northern shore of Issy Kul under the high peaks of Tien Shan and finish up in the vast open space of the Son Kul steppe. Our local mountain guide will escort you through Karakol gorge up to Ala Kul, an alpine lake that challenges the colour charts with its dazzling turquoise hue and sits in the shadows of snow-capped peaks. Walk through Skazka Canyon, also known as Fairytale Canyon, with its other-wordly sandstone peaks and wind-eroded channels. While this trip celebrates the country’s glorious landscapes, it also captures Kyrgyzstan’s rich nomadic history beautifully. Finish your holiday with a stay in a traditional yurt on the vast open space of Son Kul, where you’ll learn more about the nomadic people, take horse riding treks across the steppe and perhaps watch a game of Kok Boru, the national sport of Kyrgyzstan.

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SPACE TRAVEL - PERFECT STEPPES

YOUR JOURNEY

From: £3,495 per person excluding international flights.

Start your journey

Day 1

Bishkek Arrive Bishkek and take a guided tour of the city including Osh bazaar.

Day 8

Ala Kul Ascent to Ala Kul, a high altitude lake surrounded by snow-capped mountains.

Day 2

Ala Acha Day trip from Bishkek to Ala Archa for your first taste of the Tien Shan mountains.

Day 9

Altyn Arashan Gorge Descend from Ala Kul into the bucolic pastures of Altyn Arashan.

Day 3

Chon Kemin Drive to Chon Kemin via Burana Tower, a UNESCO minaret.

Day 10

Karakol Drive back to Karakol where the afternoon is free to relax and explore.

Day 4

Chon Kemin Explore the villages and gorges of Chon Kemin by horse or on foot.

Day 11

Day 5

Karakol Drive along the northern shore of Issy Kul to Karakol, stopping at Cholpon Ata.

Son Kul Drive to Son Kul via Skazka Canyon and the spectacular Kalmak Ashuu Pass.

Days 12-13

Son Kul Explore Son Kul by horse and on foot.

Day 6

Karakol Visit Dungan Mosque, the Russian orthodox church and museum.

Day 14-15

Bishkek

Day 7

Karakol Gorge Spectacular drive through Karakol gorge. Acclimatisation walk from camp.

Time for home or the next chapter of your adventure.

Follow the route BISHKEK

ALTYN ARASHAN SON KUL

70 Steppes Traveller | 2024

MORE ‘SPACE TRAVEL’ IDEAS

Western Australia In far northwest Australia, the Kimberley lies in a region of unfettered space, three times the size of England. 50% of the population are First Nations people to whom these lands are sacred. Wildly beautiful landscapes sweep between cavernous gorges and open savannha woodland to a dramatic coastline of river networks, huge waterfalls and mangroves with phenomenal tidal systems. Unseen caves hide ancient rock paintings and evidence of prehistoric life. Cattle stations are so large that your nearest neighbour can be two hours away. Join an expeditionary cruise for remote and privileged access or stay on a traditional homestead for a real taste of the people and culture, both past and present.

Arctic Lying about halfway between Norway and the North Pole, Spitsbergen is the largest island in the Svalbard archipelago.

Cruising on a small, ice-strengthened ship is arguably the best way to explore this extensive landscape, navigating ice-choked fjords, sailing past glaciers and witnessing myriad wildlife. This vast landscape is a playground for arctic foxes, reindeer, belugas, seals and the iconic polar bear. In a land where the population of polar bears outnumbers people, Spitsbergen is one of the best places in the world to see this majestic animal in its natural habitat.

Northwest Argentina In northwest Argentina’s Puna the skies are big and blue, with horizons untouched by human intervention. The landscape is harsh and the environment is hostile. The air is devoid of moisture and thin on oxygen while the dust stings and the wind bites hard.

Yet, in spite of this, the Puna is soul touchingly beautiful and it would take a heart of granite not to feel moved by its simple splendour.

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NAMIBIA:

SHROUDED IN

MISTS AND STORIES

by Chris Johnston

I am driving through a sandstorm on a scuffed salt track in Namibia.

The name of the park surrounding me translates as ‘dry land’. The windows of the 4x4 are wound up tight and the aircon is off, but I can still taste the desert.

72 Steppes Traveller | 2024

Through the haze I can just make out a group of pale pink flamingos, huddling together in a small lagoon. On the other side I glimpse ghostly wrecks straining against the pounding Atlantic. Up ahead, there is a dry estuary filled with dust and rocks, waiting for water that never comes.

This is not one of the country’s famous parks, but a 35-kilometre-long coastal drive between two of Namibia’s fastest growing towns. Behind me is Walvis Bay – an increasingly industrial but commercially important deep water port, and home to the most delicious oysters. Ahead lies Namibia’s holiday town of Swakopmund.

The two places could not be more different, but even on this short journey you find some of the country’s expensive real estate.

Namibia makes its presence felt.

Namib, meaning vast place, tells you everything you need to know. If there is one place that looms large in people’s imagination when they think of Namibia, it is undoubtedly the Skeleton Coast. This 16,000-kilometre-long stretch of wild coast, from the Swakop River to the border with Angola, covers nearly a third of the country’s coastline. Often described as a desolate wasteland of bleached bones and rusting wrecks, a land picked clean by scavengers and shrouded in mists and stories, it has a fierce reputation. My journey revealed quite the opposite: a hypnotic landscape, the sculpted, pale dunes softer than those in the fiery south.

feel as though I am floating. I reach down, letting the grains of the sand brush the tips of my fingers, if only to reassure me that I am in fact awake.

I soon leave the dunes and drive down into a small canyon, watching in disbelief as rivers of sand cascade from the cliff tops, dusting the rocky fig trees growing in the cracks below. A lone bull elephant greets us, his tusks brilliant white against the pale dunes behind him. He was drawn to the spring here, a lush green oasis in stark contrast to the parched surroundings.

Dozens of beautiful oryx are also slaking their thirst.

Our journey took us south to the scorched NamibRand Reserve – the oldest desert in the world. I arrive at a private reserve late in the afternoon, where the rolling mountains, vast plains and endless desert scenery is as dazzling as Sossusvlei itself, without the crowds. The distant hills, rich in quartz, sparkle in the setting sun, their lengthening shadows creeping across the vast steppe.

The scale of the scenery is so vast it is almost incomprehensible, but before long, the Daliesque landscape has worked its magic. I watch in awe as virga rain falls, evaporating mid-air, never reaching the

baked earth. Rainbows and electrical storms hang suspended over distant peaks.

A family of bat-eared foxes dart across the plains, which are covered in mysterious fairy circles. No one seems to know their origin. Fungi, gases, meteorites, even aliens have all been suggested as possible causes, but science has yet to offer a conclusive explanation.

The day turns to night as we gather around the campfire. I mention the circles to my local Damara guide, Papa G. As is often the way, local knowledge trumps all and his explanation was as simple as it was sublime.

“People say this is the land God made in his anger, but they do not understand. When God made Namibia, he was so moved by his creation that he wept. His tears fell from heaven where they remain to this day.”

Looking up at the night sky, the Milky Way ablaze, there is indeed something of the celestial in this vast place.

Images taken by Chris on his recent trip

As I step out of the 4x4, I look out over a shimmering sea of demerara dunes and the Atlantic Ocean, silvery in the distance.

The fresh sea breeze over the surface of the land creates a strange, sandy mist in constant motion. My mind plays tricks as land, sea and sky blur into one, making me

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CHILE:

THINK LIKE A

PUMA

by Jarrod Kyte

“If you want to see a puma, you have to think and act like a puma.”

My guide, Victor, looked serious for a moment. “Tomorrow we get up before sunrise… but no guanaco for breakfast.”

Six hours later, I am up before the alarm, excited by the prospect of tracking pumas in the wilds of Torres del Paine. I am also apprehensive at the thought of oversleeping and keeping Victor waiting. A lie-in is hardly puma-like and so would likely score poorly in Victor’s book.

After an early breakfast, we drive out of Eco Camp; the wispy clouds in the sky take on a warm, pink hue as the sun rises above the jagged peaks of the Andes. Victor explains that today we will be searching for puma in Laguna Amarga, a private ranch of 7,000 hectares, access to which is granted only by special permission.

We drive for an hour, stopping every few minutes to scan the horizon for signs of a puma.

74 Steppes Traveller | 2024

“If I look left, then you look right. If we work as a team then we improve our chances.”

I scrutinise the desolate pampa, lakeside trails and high plateaux dusted with snow.

I think of what the outrageous odds must be, of finding a puma in such a vast and unfathomable landscape. I know this region has one of the highest densities of puma in Torres del Paine, but if the animal wanted to remain undetected then surely there was nothing that any amount of binocularbashing would do to shine a light on its feline form. My momentary bubble of pessimism is quickly pricked by enthusiastic guidance from Victor on what to look for.

“If the guanacos are looking alert then this is a sign that pumas are around… and keep an eye out for hovering condors as they may have located a kill.”

With empty skies and just a few indifferent and unwatchful guanacos on the horizon, my mind wandered to yesterday, when I joined researchers in the field collecting data from camera traps at neighbouring estancia, Cerro Guido. In conjunction with the NGO, Panthera, Cerro Guido conducts puma research on their land and encourages tourism as a key revenue generator to supplement their dwindling returns from livestock farming. The snow fell heavily; the only puma I saw were those on video, captured by camera traps in the conservancies. Condoreras and Lago Sarmiento are areas of land set aside in perpetuity to provide sanctuary to Patagonia’s big cats.

10 square kilometres in Torres del Paine (between 200-250 cats in total). While there may not be a consensus on numbers, it is generally agreed that Laguna Amarga is where pumas are most prolific. As we step out of the vehicle to continue our search on foot, it isn’t long before we see the proof. The long, curved spine of a guanaco, so picked clean of meat that it looks almost polished, sits in the middle of a collection of smaller gnarled bones and scraggly fur.

Less than 50 metres away, we come across another similar pile of bones and then a far more recently predated carcass. Victor draws my attention to how the puma has attempted to cover the kill with foliage to stop scavengers from finding it.

“We are walking across a puma’s hunting ground. Be alert and follow me,” he says.

We climb a vantage point and look across a narrow valley towards an elevated plateau.

To our left is the blue and glimmering expanse of Lago Sarmiento, overlooked by snowy mountain peaks. On the horizon, behind the high point, is the iconic Paine Massif. The sky is cloudless and the air feels crisp and new. I have seen the three iconic granite towers of the Cordillera del Paine a thousand times online and in print, but the pictures do not prepare me for the wild,

elemental beauty and sense of space this pocket of Patagonia conveys. My reverie is interrupted by Victor.

“Do you see him?”

Victor has his binoculars fixed on a point on the other side of the valley.

“Where?” I exclaim.

“There is a puma sitting on the side of the hill.”

“Where?” I repeat, trying hard to stay cool but behaving anything but.

Victor uses all the normal tools to explain exactly where he has located the puma – “if the large rock is 12 o’clock then the puma is sitting at three o’clock”, “follow the ridge and then drop down 20 metres”, “stand behind me and follow my gaze” – but it takes at least five minutes before the twitch of an ear betrays his location to me.

“He is going to the higher ground to stalk that herd of guanaco on the ridge. We need to move quickly, down into the valley and up the other side where we should be able to see him. Ready to go?”

Nobody seems to know exact figures, but it is estimated that there is a puma for every

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THINK LIKE A PUMA

Following a steady but challenging trek, we reach the slope on the other side of the valley. We stop at the exact point where we had seen the puma. Victor tells me to wait a moment while he scrambles up a steep slope to reach the highest point of the plateau above. A minute or so later, he returns, an enormous smile on his face.

He urges me to follow him to the plateau, via a much easier route. We reach the top and there against the backdrop of Laguna Sarmiento and the snow covered Andes, is a puma, prostrate on the ground, no more than 50 metres from us.

Images taken by Jarrod Kyte

76 Steppes Traveller | 2024

Victor begins to remind us of the protocol in a situation like this, but before he can finish telling me of the importance to stand our ground and not turn our back on the puma should he rise and walk towards us, the puma stands, stretches and walks towards us. It is a ‘walk-past’ of extreme confidence. As he saunters less than 10 metres from where we are standing transfixed, he locks both eyes on us, leaving no doubt as to who is the alpha in this wild, mountainous terrain.

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POSITIVE IMPACT TRAVEL

“HARD, BLUE TRUTH IN THE ICE”

by Jarrod Kyte

78 Steppes Traveller | 2024

As we drift along Agostini Sound, the closer we get to Condor Glacier the more choked the water becomes with brash ice.

Fragments of the glacier, thousands of years old, litter the frigid waters; a potent reminder of the latent power of what lies at the end of the channel. Glaciers have formed and shaped this landscape in Patagonia’s southern tip; they represent both its past, its present and its future. But its future is what causes great concern.

Studies have concluded that glacier recession in Patagonia is the third biggest contributor to global sea level rise, after Greenland and Alaska. There’s ‘hard blue truth in the ice’* and as such, receding glaciers have come to be the bellwethers of climate change; visible, albeit slow-paced reminders, that the planet is warming.

We jump into Zodiacs, tentatively approaching the glacier, plotting a careful course through the thick, twinkling carpet of brash ice. The frozen blue behemoth at the end of Agostini sits imperious, a moving ice sculpture that epitomises both the potency and fragility of the natural world.

How can such a gargantuan force of nature be so ephemeral and at risk? To add further layers to this paradox, by my being here, I question whether I am contributing to the ultimate demise of the glacier and what it represents. It’s an uncomfortable truth that travel accounts for 8% of the world’s carbon emissions.

So, how do we prevent the ‘tragedy of the commons’ becoming tourism’s epitaph?

Our MD, Justin Wateridge, is clear that it’s not a binary decision of whether to travel or not, but more a decision of how we should travel.

It’s inescapable that long-haul flying creates a sizable carbon footprint. The travel industry must use this to galvanise efforts to ensure travel has a positive impact on the ground, big enough to

outweigh the negative effects of carbon.

Where this is most tangible, is in places where tourism provides a mechanism for the monetisation of natural habitat and biodiversity. While the intrinsic value of such things should be manifest, sadly the principle of ‘if it pays it stays’ carries more weight.

Tourism gives governments and local communities a non-extractive means of generating revenue and economic growth from the wild places and the wildlife with which they coexist. Think of the conservancies in the Masai Mara, the national parks of Madhya Pradesh or the protected wilderness of Patagonia, which without tourism would no longer be viable.

On my recent trip to Chile, I stayed at Cerro Guido, an estancia on the edge of Torres del Paine that has over 100,000 hectares of pure Patagonian real estate.

In 2019, the owners launched Project Puma, a bold initiative to preserve the cultural farming heritage of their estancia while simultaneously conserving the biodiversity that also calls Cerro Guido home. I joined Gonzales, their head guide, on a full day conservation safari, checking camera traps and scouting for pumas in the conservancies of Condoreras, Lago Samiento and Sierra del Toro. All have been set aside in perpetuity by the owners of the estancia as protected land for wildlife.

“Our trackers and guides were once leoneros, the men employed to kill pumas on an estancia. We now use more enlightened methods to protect the livestock and our leoneros are key to habituating the pumas, to make our safaris more fulfilling for our visitors,” he tells me.

We are keen to redefine the notion of being ‘well-travelled’, making it less about the number of miles we accumulate or the number of stamps we collect in our passport, and more about the way in which we travel and the legacy we leave behind.

With our help and guidance, we want to ensure the choices you make for your next trip with us have a long-lasting and positive impact on you as a traveller, but also on the people and the places you visit.

We believe that tourism is a positive force for protection of natural habitat, conservation of endangered species and preservation of cultural heritage; but we urge you to continuously challenge us to substantiate that claim. Through such a collaborative and transparent approach, we hope to create Beautiful Adventures, mindful that we do not have all the answers, but conscious that travel can be positively life-changing for all involved. *Kim Weaver, Honesty in Ice, part of a series of poems written about Linsley’s Glacier in Washington, USA.

While there may be ‘hard, blue truth in the ice’, our fate is not sealed. With innovation and shared resolve, as exemplified at Cerro Guido, tourism can be part of the solution to the challenges posed by climate change.

But a change of mindset is needed.

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THE EDGE OF

WONDER The path less travelled. A cliche for some, a magnetic force for others, drawing adventurous souls into the unknown.

Its promise of excitement, discovery and endless possibility unmarked by footsteps but signposted by unspoken stories and whispers of the wild.

Our universal human spirit craves that thrill of the unknown, to stand at the edge of wonder, yet few truly get to experience it. To discover the forgotten magic of existence and allow their curiosity to reign, where the journey of exploration is as transformative as the destination itself.

Discover the vastness of what we don’t know; discover a new sense of freedom; make choices unshackled by everyday expectations. Make your life your masterpiece.

Colour outside the lines. Enrich it with vibrant experiences and invaluable lessons that only travel can bring.

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LIVING A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED Big Idea Nine

Socotra: East of Eden Ancient texts refer to Socotra as being the original location of the Garden of Eden.

Whatever your views on the Old Testament, first impressions of the island will likely have you believing that Adam and Eve may well appear from behind a dragon blood tree at any moment. If your idea of luxury is exploring a pristine environment where few others have set foot, and seeking pleasure in the simple things, this trip is for you.

Cut off from the rest of the world, Socotra’s ecosystem consists of a large number of endemic species, from cucumber trees and rare types of frankincense to pink desert roses. With jagged, fang-like mountains, white sand beaches and vivid coral reefs, the landscape has an almost cinematic quality. There are few places left in the world that offer such a simple yet richly rewarding experience.

Its unique culture and traditions have also survived intact. The island is a treasure trove of myths and folklore, kept alive by the inhabitants who speak Socotri, a language older than Arabic. Spend your days walking in search of unique flora and fauna, snorkelling amongst outstanding marine life and wreck sites and sharing stories around a campfire, a Socotri tradition. Live in the moment.

Locations don’t get much more extraordinary than this. Let us help you set forth on a fulfilling and restoring adventure like no other.

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THE EDGE OF WONDER - EAST OF EDEN

YOUR JOURNEY

Day 1

Abu Dhabi

Day 2

Abu Dhabi – Socotra Fly to Socotra from Abu Dhabi. Drive to the eastern coast of the island for three nights at your private beach camp at Erisil.

Day 3

Erisil Morning spent snorkelling in Di Hamri Marine reserve and Rosh Marine Sanctuary. Afternoon spent trekking to the cave system of Hoq.

Day 4

Erisil Explore Homhil nature reserve on foot.

Day 5

Wadi Masaba Drive to Adouna and transfer to A’adho Demela at 1000m in the Haggeher mountains and the start point for an exhilarating trek.

Day 6

Firmihin Plateau Trekking among dragon blood trees, swimming in wadis and visiting mountain villages around the Firmihin Plateau.

Day 7

Firmihin Plateau Trekking among the high peaks over some of Socotra’s most extraordinary scenery.

Day 8

Hadibo Visit the remote and spectacular beach villages at Shuab Quabhen. Take a boat to Ras Shuab to the isolated beaches of Neit and meet with the local people working in the salt industry.

Day 9-10

Socotra – Abu Dhabi Late morning flight back to Abu Dhabi.

Overnight in Abu Dhabi.

Time for home or the next chapter of your adventure.

From: £12,395 per person excluding international flights.

Follow the route Start your journey ABU DHABI

SOCOTRA

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MORE ‘EDGE OF WONDER’ IDEAS

Pakistan Explore the wild and beautiful north of this enigmatic country.

Journey through towering mountain passes on the famed Karakoram Highway, step back in time among colourful merchant stalls in old Peshawar, explore UNESCO sites, cliffside forts and ancient rock art before wandering amidst the colonial elegance of Lahore.

Iraqi Kurdistan The capital city of Erbil is brimming with monuments that speak of its history and the numerous influences to the region. Head to Dohuk, surrounded by mountains but renowned for its bazaar and Dayro d-Mor Monastery, one of eastern Christendom’s most famous sites. The cultural capital Suleimaniyah has a rich history of poets and writers as well as a more brutal recent past.

Angola, Namibia and Botswana Take an epic journey of 1,200 kilometres, tracing the source of the Okavango Delta from Angola to Namibia and onto Botswana. Follow the river courses that feed the Okavango and Kwando ecosystems from their sources in the Angolan Highlands to the Okavango Delta and finally to the sands of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. This expedition will take you into the Caprivi Strip, a 450-kilometre pan-handle in the north of Namibia that is an important corridor for wildlife moving between five different countries.

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FOUR DAYS IN

JERUSALEM

These thoughts were put to paper just a few short days before the awful incidents which occurred in Israel in early October, continue in Gaza and which now dominate global attention. We thought long and hard regarding its inclusion in this year’s magazine but do so out of respect for the author, whose sincerest hope is that some form of peace and normality soon returns to this most magical region and for all its peoples; decent people who certainly deserve no

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by Lee Robertson

less. Our thoughts and prayers go with them. We hope to see them again soon.

Lee Robertson is the CEO and Founder of the Octo Members Group, the UK’s fastest growing financial services membership organisation. Lee travelled with Steppes to Israel in August/September 2023.

My first visit to the religious and historic epicentre to around a third of humanity that is Jerusalem. A mere four days to explore a place of religions and so many forms of faith.

Historically, Jerusalem is a place of crusaders, traders, pilgrims and shifting supremacies. Today: an ancient and modern city not far short of a million people.

I travelled light but with heavy expectations of what might lie in store. Staying at modest accommodation within the Old City, up narrow, busy yet somehow serene alleys, just seemed apt.

Atmospheric thoroughfares with names like David, Al-Attarin, and Dier Al-Sultan were everywhere. The names of the seven gates of the Old City from the time of Suleiman such as Herod’s, Damascus, Jaffa and Silwan conjured up half-remembered lessons from Sunday School and my nominal Scots Protestant upbringing.

I spent most of my time wandering the alleyways and markets of the Jewish, Armenian and Christian Quarters. For an amateur photographer, it is a pure joy.

Every step and turn brought new wonders.

Churches, mosques, synagogues, temples and shrines, just too many to mention – most from the very earliest days of our religions. But also, friendly people, endless historic curios and market traders, restaurants and welcoming coffee shops and bars. Great Wi-Fi in virtually all of them, by the way.

I got up early for the unlocking of the Holy Sepulchre Church, sought the rooftops for stunning views and sunsets over the city when the church bells or the imams were calling the faithful to prayer. I visited the Western Wall at the start of Shabbat

to witness the faithful in their devotions.

It touched something very deeply and is nothing short of remarkable. I am sure it would be the same for any visitor, whether traveller, history buff, amateur photographer and whether of faith or not.

Beyond the Old City, there is vibrant, modern Jerusalem with food markets, cafe culture and modernity to rival anywhere and I spent a very happy day exploring.

Venturing further afield I swam in the Dead Sea, visited Herod’s stunning mountain palace at Masada and went looking amongst the Judean desert rocks, where David hid from King Saul, for ibex at EnGedi. I was shown an oasis where you can stand under a waterfall to cool off.

There is just so much I could say about how much I enjoyed this trip. The history, the friendliest of people, a welcome ability to just wander, stop for a coffee or a beer and watch people of all faiths, and none, go about their day.

If pushed for a favourite moment, I would say wading through thigh-deep cold water in Hezekiah’s tunnel. Carved by hand under the City of David in ancient times, it emerges at the Siloam Pool where the bible says Jesus cured a blind man and the experience will remain with me always. A more serene place you will not find.

I cannot recommend this magical, wondrous destination strongly enough.

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AN INTERVIEW WITH

HANLI PRINSLOO

by Justin Wateridge

Travel isn’t simply about places, destinations or sites. It’s about people, understanding and unconditional moments that make connections. In my travels, I’ve been lucky enough to meet some extraordinary people, charismatic guides, generous hosts and 86 Steppes Traveller | 2024

captivating storytellers, but perhaps none more so than Hanli Prinsloo. Hanli is an amazing free diver, but above all, for me, she’s such an amazing champion and advocate for the oceans.

Hanli, how did a young girl who grew up on a horse farm not far from Johannesburg get involved in freediving?

I’m a big fan of wild nature. We were lucky enough to have two small rivers, one big dam and a swimming pool on the farm. My sister and I would swim underwater and try to talk to each other. We developed this whole squeaking underwater language.

I now realise we were obviously talking bottlenose dolphin to each other. We discovered the stillness and beauty of being underwater.

I felt so disappointed when I tried scuba diving; it wasn’t what I expected. I wanted to move freely in the water. I wanted that quiet. I wanted to feel like I was part of the environment. Scuba diving felt like I was in a safari vehicle, right? I was a visitor and I wanted to be at one with the ocean.

I moved to Sweden at 19 and I met this person who was incredibly passionate about the ocean and freediving. That’s when the penny dropped. That’s what I had been wanting to do. So, I started freediving in the fjords in Sweden.

Why is freediving ‘better’ than scuba diving?

One of the things I love about being underwater is how weightless and free one can feel. For me, scuba diving equipment makes me feel bulky. On top of that, it’s very loud in such a quiet world. The wildlife encounters freedivers are gifted with are just better.

I’ve been lucky enough to swim with you and dolphins in southern Mozambique.

The dolphins were very much attracted to you because of your ability to freedive and stay underwater with them for so long.

They recognise you’re moving like them, right? When we move, breathe and behave like them underwater, they’re interested. We have this kinship with

“Find a way of being near nature, whether that’s an incredible once in a lifetime experience with whale sharks, or finding that little place close to home.”

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AN INTERVIEW WITH HANLI PRINSLOO

aquatic mammals. You have places in the world where the manta rays or whale sharks like the sensory experience of the bubbles of the scuba tickling their tummies, but they’re not really engaging with the diver.

When you freedrive, you really get those eye-to-eye meetings.

What are some of the most surprising encounters you’ve been lucky enough to have?

You mentioned the dolphins in southern Mozambique and I think this is one of life’s greatest experiences. They’re so intelligent and interactive, but yet they’re really curious about us.

When I was pregnant, I had the opportunity to swim with that same pod of dolphins; dolphins I’d been swimming with for over 15 years. As you might know, dolphins use echolocation to see through the water.

They can actually scan the human body and see the baby inside. They were incredibly curious about another pregnant being in the water, especially with dolphins being a matriarchal society. The most revered, the pregnant female, is protected and taken care of. Getting into the water pregnant, the dolphins responded completely differently.

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It was incredible. They all circled around and started scanning me. They were basically the first ones to see our baby on their own sonar and, you know, they name people who get in the water with them.

So, they were giving her a name before we even named her. That’s one of my greatest highlights.

You’re in one of my favourite books, ‘Deep’

by James Nestor, where you swim with sperm whales in Sri Lanka. What was that like?

You get these big pods of sperm whales and they’re incredibly intimidating creatures.

Getting in the water with over 60 sperm whales was probably one of the most frightening things I’d done. I thought, ‘What if I get in, they scan me and don’t like me? What if they see right through me and find me lacking?’ I had imposter syndrome.

Two females turned and weren’t looking at me with their eyes. They were scanning me, the same way as the dolphins. I sent my emotions to them, ‘You’re so big. You’re so beautiful. Thank you for letting me be here’. That’s what I wanted them to feel, to experience. They turned and looked me in the eye and things shifted for me at that moment.

You’re the founder of the ‘I Am Water’ Foundation. Tell us about the work you do.

The ocean has given me so much and I feel such a strong love and deep connection with it. This is something I want others to experience. Having travelled the world with freediving, I was blown away by what we have on our doorstep here in South Africa, but few South Africans actually have access to that.

‘I Am Water’ was born out of that deep desire to see more South Africans have the opportunity to experience the ocean.

We work with students from local schools, aged 11-12 years old. When the morning bell goes, they come to the beach to learn about their body and their connection to the ocean through breath and we guide them through what the ocean gives us.

They explore rock pools, get involved in beach clean up and snorkel. For many of these children, it’s their first time seeing what’s under the water.

Being on the beach and seeing coaches help children into their wetsuits, put on a mask and say ‘I can’t do it, nobody in my family can swim.’ To then see them have a moment in nature and overcome fears is more rewarding than any record ever was.

I’m sure that’s one of the many reasons you were elected by the World Economic Forum to be a young global leader in 2014.

What have you learned from it?

It’s been a really interesting journey for me.

I’d just stopped competing and part of me thought I wouldn’t be relevant anymore.

There’s always that voice questioning. I was spending my time developing ‘I Am Water’ when I got this email from the World Economic Forum. I think the greatest gift has been meeting other African leaders who are passionate about our continent and about its people. I find that some of the most inspiring leaders are right here in my country and on my continent. Finding that community has been one of the biggest things.

Are you optimistic or pessimistic about the state of the oceans?

I think the only way I stay optimistic is by spending a lot of time in the water. I can feel quite defeated trying to solve problems from behind a computer. I was in the kelp forests for several hours; they’re flourishing and there’s so much left to protect and I feel optimistic. There are other times I’ve been diving in Indonesia watching the manta rays open their mouths as they’re filtering water to feed and they’re also filtering plastic. I swim around with tears

in my mask pulling plastic into a bag and you just can’t pull it out fast enough. I find that those who are active in their work and continue to be the most optimistic are the ones who feel like they’re making a difference.

What can we do to make a difference?

I always encourage people to find their own connection with nature. If we look close enough, nature is fighting to be where we are, there are places we can find. We all know how and what we eat affects our planet. If you live in a place where it makes sense to eat more plant based, then excellent; if you live somewhere with access to the right kind of red meat, that’s also excellent.

I’ve seen how you guys at Steppes are really trying to help people travel in a way that’s more conscious and how you work with service providers and local communities. I think that’s kind of my wish, for people to be a little bit more conscious and deliberate in every little action because then it becomes a lifestyle and then it actually has an impact.

One can start seeing those correlations and start making better choices. I would say vote with your wallet, with the things you buy, how you travel, who you travel with, where you travel.

What advice would you like to give to others?

Find a way of being near nature, whether that’s an incredible once in a lifetime experience with whale sharks, or finding that little place close to home. I think that’s what I’m really feeling at the moment, how much we need nature.

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Freediving and Ocean Exploration Equipment

Where is your next ocean adventure taking you?

Your love for the sea can be expressed in the equipment you use without compromising on performance and design.

WE ARE OCEAN PEOPLE, WE CONNECT YOU TO THE OCEAN, FOR GOOD

www.agulhasocean.com

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THE

TRAIN JOURNEY

To travel by train is to travel through the soul of a landscape, where history, culture, and breathtaking countries seamlessly converge. The brilliance of a rail journey lies not in the convenience of reaching your destination, but in the immersive journey itself.

The world races forward, train travel brings you back. It encourages you to pause, to breathe and to witness the world passing by. It’s a reminder that we only get to be here once and, in those stolen moments at the window, you’ll relax, stop, rekindle and rejuvenate.

Allow the world to reveal itself from the unforgiving to the quirky and the quaint. Bear witness to diversity with the freedom to roam within the confines of a cosy carriage.

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LIVING A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED Big Idea Ten

Eastern Europe: A Dozen Days of Delight Board the luxurious Golden Eagle Danube Express and cross five Eastern European countries, gaining a deep cultural appreciation of each destination. This perfectly paced itinerary is designed for those with a hunger for luxury and a thirst for culture. Delight in your room with a constantly changing view, impeccable service and exquisite cuisine, all while in the company of like-minded travellers.

Discover a host of exclusive experiences peppered along your journey; from a cruise on Prague’s river Vltava to a private concert by the Vienna Supreme Orchestra at the House of Mozart. Awaken your senses with expert led visits to museums, historical sites and bustling markets.

A journey as diverse as it is fulfilling, elevated by the extraordinary comforts provided aboard the Golden Eagle. Simply splendid.

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THE TRAIN JOURNEY - A DOZEN DAYS OF DELIGHT

YOUR JOURNEY

From: £14,765 per person, excluding international flights.

Start your journey

Days 1-3

Budapest Welcome dinner. A guided city tour and free time, sampling Hungarian langos and soaking in a thermal city bath.

Welcome drinks before boarding the train.

Day 4

Krakow Visit the Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum. Lunch in Krakow’s medieval market square.

Day 5

Warsaw A piano recital of the work of Polish pianist Frédéric François Chopin, hosted privately for guests of the Golden Eagle.

Day 6

Malbork and Gdansk Explore the Malbork Castle and museum. After lunch, visit the coastal city of Gdansk. Tour the European Solidarity Centre. Continue to Oliwa Cathedral for an organ concert.

Day 7

Berlin Drive a Trabant, one of the most iconic symbols of East Germany.

Day 8

Dresden - The Elbe Valley Wine tasting at Wackerbarth Castle vineyard, one of the oldest wineries in the region. Dinner in Prague and free time in the Old Town.

Day 9

Prague Ascend on a vintage tram to Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral. A private Vltava river cruise, cocktail in hand.

Day 10

Salzburg See Mirabell Palace, Mozart’s former residence, the Old Town and the trick fountains of Hellbrunn Palace.

Day 11

Vienna En route to Vienna, travel on the Semmering Pass. A private Vienna Supreme Orchestra concert at the House of Mozart.

Day 12

Breakfast on the train Time for home or the next chapter of your adventure.

Follow the route MALBORK BERLIN

WARSAW

DRESDEN PRAGUE

SALZBURG

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VIENNA BUDAPEST

MORE TRAIN JOURNEY IDEAS

Argentina - Tren a las Nubes Take a journey into the clouds, ascending 4,220 metres above sea level, passing through salt deserts of the Atacama Plateau, a dormant volcano, abandoned mines and cacti forests of the Andes.

Tren a las Nubes, in Argentina’s northwest province of Salta, is one of the highest train journeys in the world. The pinnacle? La Polvorilla Viaduct. An engineering masterpiece, this impressive bridge is constructed from steel arches that span across a deep desert canyon. After taking in the heights from the train, begin the hour-long descent back to San Antonio de los Cobres. Though the journey is brief, its impact is enduring; an experience that won’t easily be forgotten.

India - First Class Train Travel There is an air of nostalgia surrounding train travel in India; a feel of a bygone era. In such a dynamic country, the calm, ease and comfort of a luxury train journey offers the perfect balance.

With several trains and itineraries to choose between, it’s possible to explore the length and breadth of Rajasthan, from temples to tigers, seamlessly moving between destinations with no packing and unpacking. Travelling through the night, days are left free for exploration alongside expert guides while missing nothing of the country from the panoramic windows of your royal palace on wheels.

Spain - Transcantabrico This immersive eight-day journey across northern Spain’s Cantabrian Coast starts in Santiago de Compostela and finishes in San Sebastian, or vice versa. Stop in Oviedo, Gijon, Bilbao, Santander and Picos de Europa National Park, home to the brown bear, Iberian wolf and the Cantabrian chamois. Sip local wines and savour cuisine from the Basque Country and northern Spain before retreating to your suite. By day, enjoy guided city tours and visit the Guggenheim Museum and Antoni Gaudi’s El Capricho villa. At night, the train stays stationary, offering flexibility to explore the sights along the route.

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NEW ZEALAND:

RIVERS DEEP,

MOUNTAINS HIGH

by Sue Grimwood

There’s no feeling quite like the excitement before taking a trip.

You may know where you’re staying, you may have a vague idea of what it’s going to be like, but the rest is the excitement of the unknown. For me, that sense of anticipation was magnified when I embarked on the TranzAlpine train journey in New Zealand, a country renowned for its stunning natural beauty.

As I boarded the train bound for Greymouth, I couldn’t help but feel that I was about to start on an unforgettable journey through enchanting landscapes and captivating vistas. The south island’s natural beauty unveiled itself from the moment the train headed out of the city limits.

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We were slowly rattling through a vast expanse of emerald green farmland stretching as far as the eye could see, the plains framed by distant mountains. After crisscrossing the Waimakariri River valley, we ascended into the heart of the Southern Alps, with the landscape changing dramatically. Snow-capped peaks loomed before us, pristine rivers meandered through deep valleys and dense forests painted the landscape in hues of green. Each turn brought a new snapshot of New Zealand’s untouched wilderness.

There wasn’t a moment on the trip where I found myself searching for something to look at. Crossing viaducts and darting through tunnels, an element of adventure is added to the experience. A feeling akin to a thrilling roller coaster ride, yet one where the

thrills are provided by Mother Nature herself. Our train driver stopped in the middle of one of the viaducts.

“This isn’t a planned stop, but I love the view from here.”

He wasn’t wrong, it was unlike anything I’d seen before.

Nature enthusiasts and photographers alike would find the TranzAlpine journey an absolute dream come true, offering endless opportunities to capture the essence of New Zealand from the open cabins at the front of the train.

It offers a unique perspective. You can fully immerse yourself in the present without the distraction of navigation when self-driving.

Savour the present moment, gaze out of the window and marvel at panorama after panorama.

The train breaks its journey in the mountain townships of Arthur’s Pass. For those with the time and hankering to don walking boots, I would encourage you to linger here for a few days. There are plenty of walking opportunities from short hikes to see one of the many waterfalls to full-day treks up into the surrounding mountains.

This train journey transcends words. It’s a journey of boundless wonder. For those seeking a self-drive adventure with a touch of serenity, this is the way to do it.

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STEPPES FUND FOR CHANGE

BEHIND THE SCENES

First and foremost, a huge thank you to everybody who chose to travel with us in 2023. Without your support, we wouldn’t have been able to support the below charities and initiatives. We believe travel can and should be a force for good, a means by which to drive change and to protect people, the planet and its precious diversity Steppes Fund For Female Guides In June 2023, we launched our Fund for Female Guides initiative. Education enables women to gain equal access to skills and opportunities in the labour market, which in travel accounts for one in four jobs in the world. Our Steppes Fund for Female Guides aims to give women access to education and training that will give them the knowledge and skills to pursue a fulfilling and prosperous career as a guide.

We’ve partnered with African Bush Camps to sponsor two trainee female guides starting their three-year apprenticeships.

Esther Phiri started her training in Zambia earlier this year and is currently getting invaluable hands-on experience, shadowing

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qualified guides and interacting with guests at various lodges. Esther will sit her exams at the end of each year. Our second apprentice starts any day now and we look forward to sharing her progress with you.

October 2023 marked the start of our partnership with Tiger Trust to give training to female guides working in national parks across Central India.

The first women to occupy official guiding roles were in Kanha around 10 years ago.

Sadly, there’s still a cultural taboo which prevents many women from applying for this sort of work. For those women who have taken on the mantle, training has been sporadic at best and, sadly, many will face prejudice in their day-to-day working lives.

In conjunction with our partner in India, Amit Sankhala, we’ve provided training to 53 female guides currently working in Bandhavgarh, Pench, Kanha and Satpura.

Enhancing their knowledge, confidence and guiding techniques gives them a solid footing to their professional aspirations.

Amit was instrumental in organising the training:

“It is vital for women from the villages neighbouring our parks to be given equal opportunities to benefit from tourism. If their livelihoods depend on wildlife, then they are the best guardians of our forest.”

We’re currently in discussions with female candidates in Peru, Colombia, Kenya, Madagascar, Zimbabwe and Mongolia, to whom we hope to be confirming bursaries soon. If you know of a woman looking for help to pursue a career in guiding, please let us know.

Esther Phiri, our guide in training

Total donations for 2022-23 Carbon offset for flights £64,163 Steppes Fund For Change £74,268

Who we’ve supported in the last 12 months under the auspices of Steppes Fund For Change: Brigg Afforestation Project £12,000 The Long Table £18,808

Seawilding Seawilding is a marine habitat restoration initiative located on the Scottish peninsula of Craignish. With the overarching goals of sequestering carbon, restoring lost biodiversity and creating green jobs, Seawilding restores seagrass beds and native oyster beds on the spectacular Argyll coast.

They have a target of restoring one million native oysters to the coastline of Argyll and are currently one-third of the way to achieving this goal. Their seagrass projects are also gathering momentum, trialling different methodologies of planting and creating sea grass nurseries to drive up germination. They’re now providing support and advice to other coastal community seagrass restoration projects, scaling up the success of their innovative techniques.

We’re delighted to support a grassroots project that makes a positive difference to their local environment and community, but also has a global impact through the sequestration of blue carbon.

The Long Table One-third of all food grown and produced is never eaten. This shameful fact was the spark that lit the fire for a communitybased, social enterprise called The Long Table. Based in our own local community, just outside Stroud, the aim of The Long Table is to make locally sourced, wholesome food available to everyone, regardless of their social or financial background. Their founder, Tom Herbert, says “We put food at the centre of the community. We want to make sure that everyone has access to great food and people to eat it with.”

The monies you’ve helped us raise go towards a particular Long Table initiative called Teenage Kitchen, a seven-week course for 15-and 16-year-olds from all walks of life in the Stroud area, giving them a leg up in pursuit of a career in catering.

At a time of climate crisis and economic downturn, the goals of food resilience and creating a community that looks out for each other, have never been more vital.

Seawilding £18,305 Steppes Fund For Female Guides £14,320 Galapagos Conservation Trust £3,835 Morocco Education For All Earthquake Appeal £5,000 Toilet Twinning £1,000

African Parks £1,000

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OUR RECOMMENDED

TRAVEL READS

by Justin Wateridge

Here are six books, loosely associated with travel, that I have read in the last year and would wholeheartedly recommend.

THE SEVEN MOONS OF MAALI ALMEIDA Shehan Karunatilaka Karunatilaka’s maverick novel examines the painful truths of a brutal and dark chapter in Sri Lanka’s recent history.

With magical realism, humour and energy the novel fizzes with ideas and inventiveness.

100 Steppes Traveller | 2024

SILENT EARTH

DUST CHILD

David Goulson

Nguyen Phan Que Mai

Eye-opening and inspiring, Silent Earth is a love letter to the insect world and a rousing manifesto for a better planet. It is a call to arms for change in government policy, agriculture, industry and in our own homes and gardens.

A hauntingly beautiful reflection that shines light on the complex legacy of the Vietnam War, through the interweaving stories of a group of unforgettable characters who are all searching for meaning from the traumas of the past.

AN IMMENSE WORLD

WOUNDED TIGRIS

Ed Yong

Leon McCarron

The Earth teems with sights and textures, sounds and vibrations, smells and tastes, electric and magnetic fields. But every animal is enclosed within its own unique sensory bubble, perceiving only a tiny sliver of this world. Ed Yong coaxes us beyond the confines of our own senses, welcoming us into previously unfathomable dimensions – the world as it is truly perceived by other animals.

Showing us that in order to understand our world, we need to do more than just travel to other places: we need to see through other eyes.

An enlightening journey along the iconic river Tigris, through Eastern Turkey, Syria and Iraq, Leon McCarron articulates what humanity stands to lose with the death of a great river, and what can be done to try to save it.

LOOKING FOR THEOPHRASTUS Laura Beatty Contemporary of Aristotle and inventor of botany, Theophrastus has been strangely neglected by history.

Laura Beatty’s entertaining biography is a journey to all the places that Theophrastus must have walked and lived in as she seeks to rescue the ancient philosopher’s reputation from obscurity.

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Travel calendar

Our travel calendar showcases the best times to visit and when to book.

JANUARY

SRI LANKA Sri Lanka is generally blessed with great weather all year round, but the tropical climate really comes into its own during our winter months, from January to April.

A trip around the Cultural Triangle, with some time to while away on the beaches in Negombo, Bentota and Tangalle, is one few will ever forget.

FEBRUARY ANTARCTICA Simply one of our most cherished destinations on the planet. This is, in our experience, a prime moment to make the trip to Antarctica. The extended daylight and average temperatures of around -6°C set an idyllic stage on which to spot whales, sea birds and the shenanigans of fledgling penguin chicks.

To secure the most popular routes - South Georgia for example - book 18 months ahead.

You’ll need to book no later than early summer to secure your booking for a winter trip to Sri Lanka.

KENYA The hottest month across much of the country and, with much fortune, the moment when wildlife sightings are at their highest and visitor numbers at their lowest.

January to March, when the seas are glassclear and landscape fantastically lush, play host to a rambunctious natural spectacle as bird species migrate from Europe.

With vistor numbers restricted you’ll need to book at least nine months before to visit Kenya’s best conservancies.

102 Steppes Traveller | 2024

MARCH

INDIA One of the hottest and driest months in Central India’s calendar and it just so happens to turn it into a playground for its wildlife. Tigers and elephants are at their most active as they seek out ways to find water, creating the perfect environment for animal lovers and photographers to observe them in all of their splendour.

Book no less than 9 months ahead especially if booking national park permits.

CHILE Chile is the longest country in the world, stretching from the harsh environment of the Atacama Desert at the top, to the dramatic peaks, fjords and windswept wilderness of Patagonia at the bottom. In between, you can find dense forests, crystal clear lakes, superb fishing and vineyards. This is a perfect time for walking, horse riding and wild swimming in Torres del Paine and other national parks.

Patagonia has limited capacity and a narrow window for travel - book 12 months ahead.

BELIZE The weather in Belize in March is almost perfect, with long, sunny days and refreshing breezes at night. From the jungles of the north to the sanctuaries of the south, and the marine reserves of the Caribbean Sea, Belize is a true haven for wildlife enthusiasts and a destination hard to beat for keen ornithologists.

Book in the early summer for a late winter escape.

Start your journey

APRIL

MAY

JAPAN This is the best month to see the cherry blossom as it unfurls and sweeps northwards across the country. Known as one of Japan’s most beautiful festivals, the Takayama Matsuri is also held in April and sees the streets in the old town of Takayama burst into life as floats and shrines are paraded through them.

Japan has stopped taking bookings for travel in the next six months - get ahead and book at least 12 months before travel.

COSTA RICA January to April generally has the lowest rainfall throughout the year, though showers can still be expected with such a tropical climate and provide welcome relief. This is one of the most exciting times to visit the Pacific Coast, with abundant opportunities to see wildlife, explore the jungle, and relax on white sandy beaches.

Costa Rica has been very popular this season so we suggest booking at least 10 months ahead.

NAMIBIA The beginning of winter in Namibia and when rainfall is scarce. Wildlife will start to gather around the waterholes as rivers and other water sources dry up to create opportunities for viewing and photography.

Although dry, a real freshness hangs in the air and green still spreads across the landscape as far as the eye can see.

To secure the best guides and lodges book no less than 10 months before travel.

JUNE

MADAGASCAR Well outside of peak season, with less rainfall and still being relatively warm, the opportunity to trek the rugged and beautiful highlands will never feel more right. The added space provided by the lack of visitors will give you plenty of room to immerse yourself in the landscape, and really get to know the playful lemur population.

We recommend booking 8 months before travel.

BHUTAN The country at its finest and the time to visit the exquisite Himalayan mountain kingdom. Rhododendrons begin to raise their stalks skywards and bloom to flood the steep, engrossing valleys with colour. For those interested in seeing the rare black-necked cranes, we equally recommend visiting the Phobjikha Valley between late October and mid-February.

Bhutan has restrictions on visitor numbers so don’t leave it much longer than 10 months before travel.

SPITSBERGEN Spitsbergen is renowned for its excellent polar bear sightings. The best period to see them is between May and September, as this is when the ice melts enough for ships to navigate the still-icy waters. With 24 hours of daylight, abundant wildlife and drifting icebergs, the Arctic in summer is one of the most beautiful areas on earth.

To secure the smallest and most popular ships book no less than 9 months before departure.

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Travel calendar

Our travel calendar showcases the best times to visit and when to book.

JULY

AUGUST

SEPTEMBER

ICELAND August marks the last official month of summer in Iceland and is one of the warmest of the year. All of this creates a sublime backdrop for the wildlife-viewing opportunities, including puffin migration and whale watching, and to explore the myriad festivals and cultural events.

ROMANIA Whilst the medieval culture and villages are well known, it is the wildlife and wilderness that many people come to see. The dense pine forests and clear mountain streams of the Carpathian Mountains support a third of Europe’s brown bears, as well as wolves and lynx, and the rich delta of the Danube is home to over 320 species of birds.

Summer in Iceland is in demand so don’t leave it any later than January to book.

Book your summer trip to Romania in January or February at the latest.

TANZANIA July to October is migration season in Tanzania, as huge swathes of animals make the dicey trip across the rivers before they continue on across the continent. In August, the dense bush in Ruaha is drying out and clusters the wildlife to create plenty of chances to spot game.

GEORGIA June to August is the high season across the country. It is the time to explore the Caucasus Mountains in the north, as it is likely to be free of snow and generally dry.

The central lowlands can get very hot and humid around this time, and make relaxing trips along the Black Sea coast particularly enjoyable.

Book your summer trip to Georgia in January or February at the latest.

Book no less than 9 months ahead especially if you’re thinking of catching the migration.

BOTSWANA The drier and cooler weather brings vast portions of the wildlife together to congregate around limited water sources, and the opportunity for game viewing opens up. Conversely, the water levels in the Okavango Delta are high and the potential to explore its own captivating wildlife displays along with it.

Our favourite camps have limited capacity so book 12-14 months ahead.

CANADA The long summer days offer opportunities to enjoy the great outdoors across the country through hiking, boating, camping and fishing. The optimum time to see the bears is during the salmon spawning season, from late August to September, when they can be seen swiping the fish from the rivers and fattening up before the onset of winter.

Bear viewing lodges get booked out early so plan 12 months ahead.

104 Steppes Traveller | 2024

Start your journey

OCTOBER

BRAZIL For many, October is the best time to visit Brazil as the busy holiday periods are a distant thought, along with the chilly southern winter weather, and better value for money can be found. For those looking for something a touch more wild, the Amazon and Pantanal are both teeming with a collection of species hard to be matched.

The lodges we use in the Pantanal and Amazon are small in size so think about booking at least 10 months ahead.

AUSTRALIA In the north, the temperature and humidity start to build, and the much-welcome rain returns to transform the Outback landscape into a vast spread of wildflowers.

The south, however, sees the start of spring and enjoys weather that perfectly accompanies wildlife spotting excursions in the national parks and along the coast.

Any less than 9 months before travel and you’ll risk losing out on booking our favourite boutique hotels.

NOVEMBER ARGENTINA Right on the cusp of this region’s summer and yet still too early for the crowds that are expected in just a month. The rugged edges of Patagonia’s landscapes are softened as they come into bloom and the vineyards of Mendoza sit quietly, with the stunning snow-capped Andes behind, to offer miles upon miles of blissful solitude.

Patagonia has limited capacity and a narrow window for travel - book 12 months ahead.

RWANDA Don’t be put off by the short rains in November as Rwanda is still, without a doubt, the best place in the world to go mountain gorilla trekking and release your inner Attenborough. Walking in the Virunga Mountains in the shadow of giant prehistoric plants as the mists clear to reveal a family of gorillas is incomparable.

With vistor numbers restricted and gorilla permits in demand book 12 months before travel.

DECEMBER

VIETNAM December is one of the best times to go to North Vietnam with warm sunny days combined with fewer crowds, especially outside of traditional Christmas holidays.

Most of Vietnam enjoys dry conditions and basks in the sunshine by December, with central Vietnam being the exception.

Head to the southern coast if you want to soak up some rays on Vietnam’s gorgeous beaches.

Our clients tend to book Vietnam at least 9 months before travel.

THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS The start of the warm season provides a welcome escape to the weather back home. Albatross chicks are beginning to find their wings, boobies exercise their prolific fishing skills and giant tortoise eggs begin to hatch new life. Swimming with sea lions, in particular, can be an incredible experience this month, as water visibility improves with the dissipation of the Humboldt Current.

To secure our favourite boats, book at least 10 months ahead.

UK: +441280 460084 | USA: 1 800 571 2985 | inspireme@steppestravel.com | steppestravel.com 105

ENJOY CLEAR THINKING. Travel is a personal journey as much as a geographical one, and it should take shape exactly as you see fit.

We believe in providing you with a blank canvas to create your holiday, sharing our expertise when and where it matters most and then making it happen for you.

We exist in a place where inspirations meet, where yours become ours. Let us help you create your next Beautiful Adventure.

Start your journey

106 Steppes Traveller | 2024

EXPLORATION STARTS WITH INSPIRATION In our world, anything is possible. For those unknown spots on the map, the latest travel news and the most exciting experiences, sign up to our enews today and find the world at your fingertips.

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CBP022288 When you’ve finished reading me, please pass me on to a friend or recycle me.

Steppes Magazine 2024 COVER FINALTO PRINT 09.12.23.indd 1