American Seafood

NOVEMBER 2017

From prestigious writer, chef, and sustainability advocate Barton Seaver comes a seminal reference on every aspect of American seafood.

With the growing trend to reintroduce US-caught seafood into our culinary lexicon, this trustworthy reference will be the go-to source for home cooks, culinary students, professional chefs, and anyone fascinated by American food culture. American Seafood looks at maritime history, including Native American fisheries; fishing technology (including aquaculture); the effect of imports on our diet, economy, and the health of our seas; the biology of taste; and the evolution of seafood cuisine, from Pine Bark Stew, red and white chowder, Po’ Boys, and Clam Bakes, to Baltimore Crab Cakes, Planked Salmon, Oysters Rockefeller, and Sushi. And although this is not a cookbook, Barton Seaver presents invaluable information on traditional culinary arts and his favorite ideas for taste pairings and preferred methods for cooking seafood. An index of species—with common, regional, and accepted names, all alphabetized—rounds out this must-have volume.

Heritage, Culture & Cookery From Sea to Shining Sea

Marketing & Pu blicit y • • • •

American Seafood

National print and online publicity campaign 20-city radio tour Goodreads giveaway Events to coincide with authors existing lecture schedule

• A CATALOG OF MORE THAN 500 SPECIES •

For publicity inquiries, contact Blanca Oliviery at (646) 688-2548 or boliviery@sterlingpublishing.com

Barton Seaver, the author of Two If By Sea, For Cod & Country, and Where There’s Smoke (all Sterling Epicure), has established himself as the preeminent expert in sustainable seafood. Before leaving the restaurant industry to pursue his interests in sustainable food systems, he created three top restaurants in Washington, DC, and was named Chef of the Year by Esquire magazine in 2009. Seaver’s Washington, DC-based restaurant, Hook, was named by Bon Appétit as one of the top ten eco-friendly restaurants in America. Seaver was an explorer for the National Geographic Society and now works as the Director of the

NOVEMBER 2017 Culinary / Reference $50.00 ($55.00 Canada) Hardcover 9" x 11"; 528 pages (all in color) ISBN: 9781454919407

AmericanSeafood Blad Wrap.indd 1

Healthy and Sustainable Seafood Program at the Center for Health and the Global Environment at Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health. The contributing seafood editor at Coastal Living magazine, he and his work have also been featured in The New York Times, Cooking Light, O: The Oprah Magazine, Every Day with Rachael Ray, Martha Stewart’s Whole Living, the Washington Post, and Fortune, among many others. He has also appeared on CNN, NPR, and 20/20. Seaver was the host of the national television program In Search of Food on the Ovation Network and Eat: the History of Food on National Geographic TV.

Disclaimer: Reviewers are reminded that changes may be made in this uncorrected proof before books are printed. If any material from the book is to be quoted in a review, the quotation should be checked against the final bound book. Dates, prices, and manufacturing details are subject to change or cancellation without notice.

BARTON SEAVER Author of For Cod and Country and Two If By Sea

5/23/17 10:14 AM

Contents INTRODUCTION:

HEADING IN:

Salt in Our Veins 1

Exploring Our Inland Fisheries 41

A LIFE’S WORK:

AQUACULTURE:

The Character of Fishermen 5

Farming Our Seas 44

TRIBUTE TO THE LOST:

MERROIR:

Honoring Those Who Slipped Beneath the Sea 9

Taste of the Sea and All Things in It 48

OUR CHANGING OCEANS:

ALL THAT’S OLD IS NEW AGAIN:

The Hand of Man in a Dynamic Environment 12

Artisan Preservation Methods and Early Cuisine 59

CATCH OF THE DAY:

A FISH BY ANY OTHER NAME:

Consumer Demand and Our Evolving Tastes 23

Seafood Nomenclature 79

HOOK, LINE AND SINKER:

A SHORT LIST OF FELLOW FISH LOVERS 82

Fishing Methods Through the Centuries 35

FISH SPECIES: A COMPLETE CATALOG OF AMERICAN SEAFOOD

Abalone 88 / Acadian and Golden Redfish 89 / Alfonso Squirrelfishes 91 / Anchovy 91 / Barnacles 93 Barracuda 96 / Barrelfish and Black Driftfish 100 / Bigeyes 101 / Billfish 102 / Bluefish 107 Bowfin 112 / Boxfish 113 / Butterfish 113 / Carp 114 / Catfish 118 / Clams 122 / Cobia 134 / Cod 137 Conch and Whelk 159 / Crab 163 / Crawfish 180 / Cutlassfish 185 / Dogfish 186 / Dory 190 / Drum 191 Eel 199 / Emperor 205 / Escolar, Walu, and Oilfish 206 / Flounders and Flatfish 207 / Flying Fish 217 / Frog 220 Garfish 220 / Goatfish 221 / Greenlings 224 / Grenadier 226 / Grouper 227 / Grunt 232 / Halibut 233 Herring 239 / Jack 245 / Jellyfish 252 / Limpet 253 / Lizardfish 254 / Lobster 254 / Mackerel 269 Mahi Mahi 279 / Mail-Cheeked Fishes 282 / Menhaden 291 / Milkfish 293 / Mojarra 293 / Monkfish 296 Mullet 297 / Mussels 302 / Needlefish 305 / Ocean Pout 308 / Octopus 308 / Opah 311 / Oysters 316 Pacific Surfperch 330 / Parrotfish 330 / Periwinkle 331 / Pomfret 332 / Pompano 333 / Porgy 337 Puffer 343 / Remora 344 / Sablefish 344 / Salmon 349 / Sardine 371 / Scallop 377 / Sea Bass 382 Sea Chubs 383 / Sea Cucumber 386 / Sea Urchin 386 / Shad 388 / Shark 392 / Shrimp 395 / Skate and Ray 414 Smelt 418 / Snakehead 423 / Snapper 423 / Spadefish 435 / Squid 435 / Striped Bass and White Perch 440 Sturgeon 450 / Surgeonfish, Tang and Unicornfish 455 / Swordfish 455 / Tautog 462 / Ten-Pounder 465 Tilapia 465 / Tilefish 468 / Triggerfish 469 / Tripletail 470 / Tuna 473 / Turtle and Terrapin 490 Wahoo 493 / Weakfish / 495 / Wolffish 496 / Wrasse 497 / Wreckfish 501 BIBLIOGRAPHY 504 / ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 508 / INDEX 510 / IMAGE CREDITS 506

INTRODUCTION

Salt in Our Veins THE STORY OF AMERICAN FISHERIES IS A STORY

of American character—of our bravery, of our will, of our courage. Within this story lie channel markers leading to our history, our flavor, our cuisine. The narratives that follow tell who we were and how we were fed. Fish stories tell of the people and the cultures implicated. They herald a brave time and a brave people, who make up, in no small part, the backbone upon which this country was founded. In our agrarian America, we sing songs of the fruited plain and the amber waves of grain— shouldn’t we also sing songs of latitudes lost, long and lonely, where men and women of iron spirit toil?

Humans have been contemplating the oceans’ dynamic personality since the beginning of time. To experience the shore is to witness the crucible of our two earthly systems attempting to share common space. This ebb and flow has been the inspiration for some of our species’ greatest expressions, the muse of our creative selves. Artists such as Andrew Wyeth, Winslow Homer, and Edward Hopper have each in their unique way captured something hauntingly revealing about our relationship with the shore. In these artists’ paintings, we find equal stage for exuberance and melancholy as their subjects, caught between nature and industry, seem to contemplate our human condition.

In the same way we revere and consider these artists’ works, we should celebrate fishing communities and be thankful that by their efforts the sea comes to our tables. But we should also ponder how seafood reflects our relationship with the oceans.

Explore the diversity of the species written about in this book and we will begin to appreciate the nuance and beauty of what we have too long seen as a commodity, ever the same. In reality, each season is different, each showing a different side of the unique personality of the ocean ecosystem. And when we answer to such a dynamic system with a static mindset, we fail to understand the oceans and find nothing in common with its nature or the people and communities whose lives respond to the tides.

ABOVE

An old salt.

The Fog Warning by Winslow Homer.

OPPOSITE

1

When European immigrants first set foot upon these shores, settlement was made in the most bountiful places—on protected edges and coves and along bays and tributaries. These outposts on this “new continent” were isolated and provided for all the needs of the settlers. The success of each wave of immigrants depended upon what the ocean could provide. As our population grew, and our attentions turned westward, the economy of America as a maritime nation gave way to a more manifest destiny. A pillar of American values is based on the Jeffersonian belief in the yeoman farmer, that those who own and work the land are the surest form of prosperity and virtue.

No one can own the oceans, and this lack of rootedness focused the inherent divide between an agrarian society and that of the hunter-gatherer that fishermen represent. As populations grew stable, settlements expanded and spread inland, our prosperity became the product of a larger, more diverse environment. As America grew into itself, as economies expanded and shifted by landownership and self-determination, these little fishing towns remained, their dependence on the sea unchanged.

Some grew to tremendous size and power, becoming capitals of trade and culture, but most remained coastal outposts.

Along the way, lured by westward expansion and railroads, industry and capitalism, we lost familiarity with the fishing towns that were the foundation of this country; we became unmoored from this country’s first industry. Despite all of our nostalgia for the Rockwellian character of these towns, we do not cherish our maritime communities. We have forgotten them as we have drifted inward, and they have become somehow other. But it is upon those docks that the settlers carried the burden of the birth of this nation. When we stand on a dock gazing wistfully out at the wine dark sea, we think of fisheries as a place beyond the gentle slope of the horizon. But to truly see a fishery, we must turn around. Among the houses and the schools and the roads, in the opportunities for a son or daughter to follow in their family’s bootsteps—there we find a fishery. It is the sum of the efforts and aspirations of the brave men and women working in one of America’s most dangerous professions. A fishery is our heritage.

While fishing may recall our nation’s past, it also represents the future of this country. On and under the ocean we can create jobs. Through our exemplary fishery management, we can expand our leadership among nations and turn America’s greatest blessing—our oceans—into the pillar of our economy,

our health, and our stewardship of our world. And at the end of the day, we can serve our families healthful meals proudly produced right here.

I have spent two decades now in restaurants, in my home kitchen, aboard fishing vessels, and traveling the world exploring fisheries, and in that time, I have developed a focused awe of the oceans and the infinite variety of flavors that they provide. I have also cultivated a deep admiration for those who bring seafood to our tables. Seafood is not just a preference or a diet choice for me, it is a deeply rooted and carefully studied passion for ingredients, stories, and the taste of place that each bite brings. And that is why I have written this book. We lack connection. Fishing communities provide for our families, create jobs, sustain heritage, and preserve opportunity. It’s only right that when we consider them, we think of the food they provide as a vehicle for us to engage with and help sustain them.

Seafood is also a part of our heritage, as it represents flavors, cooking methods, and recipes, some lost to history and others still celebrated. But many of us know very little about seafood, either the fish it comes from or the role it’s played in our history and cuisine. In the pages that follow, I try to elucidate some of the biology of fish, a lot of the history we share with the species that grace our waters, and some of the culinary opportunities to be enjoyed from them.

What you hold in your hands is not a cookbook. It’s not an Audubon-type guide, it’s not an unbiased reference book, it’s not specifically a history book, yet it’s all of these things at once. It is the story of American seafood—the product, the people, and history. Just as we claim Grandma’s recipes as part of our heritage, as we claim colorful tomatoes as treasured heirlooms, so too should we see seafood as providing for us the same fundamental values, both civic and emotional. I hope that in these pages you find inspiration to explore your relationship with our fishing communities and to read about and try “new” species of seafood. In doing so, you may realize how not new they actually are within the greater American experience. And how in the dishes they’ve inspired we taste our history, the tale of immigrants coming to a land of unbelievable riches, which stretched from sea to shining sea.

2 / INTRODUCTION

What Makes a Fish a Food Fish?

“WE AMERICANS ARE SO VAIN, COCKY AND ARROGANT THAT WE

think many great foods are inedible just because you can’t buy them at the drugstore lunch counter. We think we know it all, but we missed an awful lot while the rest of the world goes right on enjoying itself,” writes Howard Mitcham.

In this nearly bitter judgment is the truth that we have very limited parameters by which we define our preferences for seafood. I often hear people dismiss the idea of trying new fish. Bluefish was once the most popular fish in all of America, and now I regularly talk with fishermen who think it is best used to fertilize their lawns. Here’s the simple truth about fish: Almost anything you pull from the sea tastes good when treated the right way. Over the years I’ve tasted so many different species of seafood, and I have come to realize there are specific qualities by which I judged my appreciation of the fish.

General characteristics I look for: • Its flavor reflects its orgin.

• It has an identifiable culinary personality—it doesn’t have to be unique in flavor, but it has to have flavor.

• It has been properly handled from the boat to my plate (regardless of species).

• I t has been properly eviscerated without puncturing the gallbladder.

• It has been chilled properly and quickly.

• Its surfaces are not dry by sight or by touch—fish should always have a slight sheen (the exception being scallops) • I t has not been immersed or washed in freshwater.

• It is easy to fillet; fillets are easy to handle.

• Non-fillet parts are edible (livers, cheeks, roe) • It is resilient to cooking.

• Its flesh is not drying or chalky on the palate.

• It is able to stand alone without sauce.

• I t is versatile and applicable to multiple cooking methods.

292 / AMERICAN SEAFOOD

Spadefish

Squid

Though quite abundant in the sea, the Atlantic Spadefish is a rare find in the market. This coastal fish typically lives near shore around pilings, rock croppings, or other underwater structures.

During the summer months, they are found in large schools off the coast of the Carolinas and throughout the Southeastern Seaboard. They are not valuable, and thus fishermen do not target them to great extent. These beautiful fish have silver sides marked with vertical black/brown bars. They are disc-shaped and nearly as tall as they are long and so have a relatively thin profile. Average size ranges from two to six pounds, but 20 pounders were not uncommon in decades past.

Swimming along every coast, squid is one of the great and underappreciated resources we have in this country.

Domestically, we land several hundred million pounds in this country—mostly in California, with Rhode Island and the mid-Atlantic states providing the remaining tonnage.

Squid are caught mostly at night, as they are drawn to a light shone into the water and can be easily gathered and literally vacuumed into the ship’s hold with a hydraulic pump or caught on jigs and longlines.

These are often mistaken for angelfish, a popular aquarium species, and ironically the spadefish were once called Angel Fish, especially in North Carolina, where in the early 1900s there was an extensive fishery for them. At that time there was considerable demand for these in the New York and Washington, D.C., markets, and their culinary quality was mentioned in company with those of Tautog, pompano, and Black Bass. Though abundant near Baltimore and the mouth of the Chesapeake, oddly they were eschewed in those markets as undesirable. The various names by which they were marketed included Moonfish, Three-Tailed Porgee, and Pogy (confusingly, a regional term for the unrelated menhaden.)

Spadefish are omnivorous, eating plants, small fish, and crustaceans, and this diet carries through to their own flavor— briny with an oyster- and shellfish-like taste and a hint of green melon. Its flesh is pale white, and its smell is described as distinctly fresh. Given its spade-like shape, the fillets are quite wide and moderately thin. These broad fillets can be served skin on or off, and because they cook quickly, steaming, poaching, or gently simmering in butter are the most flattering methods.

It takes particularly well to herbs like mint and tarragon that augment the “fresh” flavor of the flesh.

The Pacific Spadefish is a near-exact replica of its eastern relative and has equally appreciable qualities. This type of fish is only found occasionally around San Diego. The Pacific Spadefish tends to be smaller than the Atlantic version, thus decreasing its potential as a food fish.

Of the many varieties, the Long Fin Squid, the Short Fin Squid, the Finger Squid, and the Pacific Loligo, also known as California Market Squid, are all interchangeable culinarily, and all have a high yield—nearly 80 percent of their body is usable. Unfortunately, we most often find them as I did as a child, fried and drowned in a bland marinara sauce slightly more flavorful than blah. Squid and octopus are the two families of cephalopods that we catch in this country (cepha means “head” and pod means “foot”). Squid have 10 arms, two more than their eight-legged relations. These two long tentacles are hunting mechanisms, reaching out to grab their prey: small fish and crustaceans.

To clean a squid, its eyes, beak, viscera and quill must be removed. The quill, also known as the pen or sword, is a beautiful and translucent, feather-like cartilage that provides the animal’s skeletal structure. Squid is most often found frozen at market, having been cleaned and possibly even further processed into slices. As industry terminology goes, squid have two distinct parts: the “tubes” (the hollow body) and “tents” (the tentacles or head). From a kitchen perspective, they cook the same and should be included equally in a dish as they provide contrast in structure and presentation.

Fresh squid, sometimes called “dirty,” can also be found at market. These are the whole animals, with their whisperthin purple skin intact. When cleaning these, it’s possible to save the ink sac, using some deft knife work to separate it from the viscera.

OPPOSITE

Yellowtail Snapper.

CATALOG OF SPECIES / 435

OUR CHANGING OCEANS

The Hand of Man in a Dynamic Environment “For all the development and pollution and privatization of our shores it is easy to lament good days passed, but let’s not mourn best of times because we still live in them.”

—EUELL GIBBONS

Shifting Baselines America is a land of improbable riches. Explorers here found fish so legion as to be caught by lowering a bucket, soils so fertile they could feed billions, natural beauty that has inspired art ranked in the highest echelon of human expression, rivers that sparkled with gold, and land so vast as to be a physical manifestation of our political freedoms. With this wealth we achieved the single greatest victory in human history— the ability to choose our own path. Sterile seas and fruitless barrens pit humans against nature. Abundance allows us to choose how we want to interact with our environment. And this plays out especially clearly in our nation’s fishing history.

used in Great Lakes fisheries for years, and later introduced into the New England fleet at the turn of the twentieth century. Sharp captains immediately made the investment. For almost all of history, using hand gathering, traps, weirs, lines, and the elegant Grand Bank’s fleet, fishing was long limited by man-power and compassed under sail. The facility of the Banks’ fisheries schooners was not hauling nets. They efficiently employed the traditional method of men in dories setting out from the mother ship to fish using hand lines, each baited with several hooks.

It was the introduction of the gasoline engine, followed soon after by the diesel that proved the watershed moment of transition in fisheries. Captains, now armed with enough power to quickly tow large nets, called trawls, inaugurated a series of changes that opened up the seas like never before. The legacy of this shift defines our relationship with the seas to this day.

The widespread adoption of the otter trawl over centuries, paired with the advent of gas-powered engines, did more to radically alter the industry than any other advance in history. The cone-shaped net was developed in western Michigan, where it was successfully

12

AmericanSeafood Blad Int.indd 9

5/18/17 12:20 PM

Catches Catchesgrew grewexponentially, exponentially,dwarfing dwarfingwhat whathad hadpreviously previously been beenconsidered considerednormal. normal.With Withthethebaseline baselineofofEuropean European resource resourcedepletion depletionimprinted imprintedononthethepopular popularconsciousness consciousness ofofthis thisyoung youngnation’s nation’scitizens, citizens,wewewere werekeenly keenlyaware awareofofthethe destructive destructive power power that that our our efforts efforts paired paired with with technology technology could could bring bring upon upon a resource. a resource.

While Whilethetheotter ottertrawl trawlwas wasat atfirst firstvociferously vociferouslyrejected rejectedbyby traditionalists traditionalists(a(adismissive dismissiveterm termforforthose thosewho whoexpressed expresseda a precautionary precautionary point point ofof view), view), asas catches catches soared, soared, thethe traditional traditional method methodlost lostitsitsromantic romanticappeal appealand andsuspicions suspicionswere werequickly quickly forgotten. forgotten.The Theenormous enormousefficiency efficiencyand andcapacity capacityofofthethetrawl trawl fleet fleetcemented cementedthethegrowing growingincome incomegap gapbetween betweenthethelaborer laborer and andthethefinancier financierand andchanged changedthethestructure structureofofthethefisheries fisheries economy economytotoaggregate aggregatewealth wealthforforthose thosewho whocould couldafford affordthethe technology technology toto compete compete inin a commodity a commodity market. market.

This This innovation innovation marginalized marginalizedsmall-scale small-scalefishers fishersand andrepresents representsone oneinstance instance ofofthethesocial socialand andeconomic economicstratification stratificationininfisheries fisheriesbetween between thethe haves haves and and have-nots. have-nots.

Until Until thethe trawl trawl was was introduced, introduced, every every fish fish was was caught caught byby anan individual individual oror inin a net, a net, which which was was only only asas productive productiveasasthethestrength strengthofofthose thosehauling haulingit.it.There Therewas wasreal real democracy democracyininthetheequal equalopportunity opportunityoffered offeredbybyfishing. fishing.The The industry industryhad hadalways alwayspreferentially preferentiallyprofited profitedthetheboat boatowners, owners, thetheelitist elitistCodfish CodfishAristocracy Aristocracywho whohad hadamassed amassedwealth wealthbyby mining miningthethe Atlantic’s Atlantic’sfortune, fortune,butbutit itwas wasstill stillforforthethemost mostpart part ananindustry industrythat thatrewarded rewardedthethelaborer’s laborer’saspirations. aspirations.Each Each fisherman fisherman was was able able toto earn earn what what hehe compelled compelled hishis own own hands hands toto achieve. achieve.

The The introduction introduction ofof trawl trawl technology technology notnot only only replaced replaced much muchofofthethehuman humanlabor laborrequired requiredininfisheries—catching fisheries—catching immense immense quantities quantities ofof fish fish immediately immediately altered altered thethe nature nature ofof thethe fishing fishing economy. economy.

A man A man with with a baited a baited line line ofof hooks hooks would would never never again againbebethethecentral centralfigure figureininfisheries, fisheries,and andrapidly rapidlyexpanding expanding markets marketswould wouldonly onlymarginalize marginalizehim himfurther, further,asashehecould couldnotnot compete compete with with thethe efficiencies efficiencies ofof scale scale that that crowded crowded outout thethe small small producers. producers.

The The introduction introduction ofof such such anan impersonal impersonal technology technology was was seen seen asas immoral immoral and and antithetical antithetical toto thethe working working social social order order and and brought brought upheaval upheaval toto thethe community community construct construct ofof fisheries. fisheries.

Unloading Unloading thethe catch, catch, Astoria, Astoria, Oregon.

Oregon.

Circa Circa 1950.

1950.

Trawlers Trawlers docked docked at at Boston Boston T-Wharf.

T-Wharf.

OPPOSITE, OPPOSITE, RIGHT RIGHT Postcard Postcard showing showing changing changing technologies. technologies.

ABOVE ABOVE

OPPOSITE, OPPOSITE, LEFT LEFT

The Thearguments argumentsoffered offeredbybythethelaborer laborerclass classwere wereinitially initially heard. heard.

Authorities Authorities made made anan effort effort toto reconcile reconcile thethe cultural cultural and and economic economicschisms schismswidening wideningwith withevery everyfishing fishingtrip. trip.But Butthis this was was America.

America.

The The notion notion that that a few a few individuals individuals could could introduce introduce

A DYNAMIC A DYNAMIC ENVIRONMENT ENVIRONMENT / 13 / 13

AmericanSeafood Blad Int.indd 10

5/18/17 12:20 PM

NOVEMBER 2017

From prestigious writer, chef, and sustainability advocate Barton Seaver comes a seminal reference on every aspect of American seafood.

With the growing trend to reintroduce US-caught seafood into our culinary lexicon, this trustworthy reference will be the go-to source for home cooks, culinary students, professional chefs, and anyone fascinated by American food culture. American Seafood looks at maritime history, including Native American fisheries; fishing technology (including aquaculture); the effect of imports on our diet, economy, and the health of our seas; the biology of taste; and the evolution of seafood cuisine, from Pine Bark Stew, red and white chowder, Po’ Boys, and Clam Bakes, to Baltimore Crab Cakes, Planked Salmon, Oysters Rockefeller, and Sushi. And although this is not a cookbook, Barton Seaver presents invaluable information on traditional culinary arts and his favorite ideas for taste pairings and preferred methods for cooking seafood. An index of species—with common, regional, and accepted names, all alphabetized—rounds out this must-have volume.

Heritage, Culture & Cookery From Sea to Shining Sea

Marketing & Pu blicit y • • • •

American Seafood

National print and online publicity campaign 20-city radio tour Goodreads giveaway Events to coincide with authors existing lecture schedule

• A CATALOG OF MORE THAN 500 SPECIES •

For publicity inquiries, contact Blanca Oliviery at (646) 688-2548 or boliviery@sterlingpublishing.com

Barton Seaver, the author of Two If By Sea, For Cod & Country, and Where There’s Smoke (all Sterling Epicure), has established himself as the preeminent expert in sustainable seafood. Before leaving the restaurant industry to pursue his interests in sustainable food systems, he created three top restaurants in Washington, DC, and was named Chef of the Year by Esquire magazine in 2009. Seaver’s Washington, DC-based restaurant, Hook, was named by Bon Appétit as one of the top ten eco-friendly restaurants in America. Seaver was an explorer for the National Geographic Society and now works as the Director of the

NOVEMBER 2017 Culinary / Reference $50.00 ($55.00 Canada) Hardcover 9" x 11"; 528 pages (all in color) ISBN: 9781454919407

AmericanSeafood Blad Wrap.indd 1

Healthy and Sustainable Seafood Program at the Center for Health and the Global Environment at Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health. The contributing seafood editor at Coastal Living magazine, he and his work have also been featured in The New York Times, Cooking Light, O: The Oprah Magazine, Every Day with Rachael Ray, Martha Stewart’s Whole Living, the Washington Post, and Fortune, among many others. He has also appeared on CNN, NPR, and 20/20. Seaver was the host of the national television program In Search of Food on the Ovation Network and Eat: the History of Food on National Geographic TV.

Disclaimer: Reviewers are reminded that changes may be made in this uncorrected proof before books are printed. If any material from the book is to be quoted in a review, the quotation should be checked against the final bound book. Dates, prices, and manufacturing details are subject to change or cancellation without notice.

BARTON SEAVER Author of For Cod and Country and Two If By Sea

5/23/17 10:14 AM