BUYING WINE? SPEND LESS, GET MORE PG. 8
iSSue No. 5
Thomas
Arvid
THE BEST WINE PAINTER IN AMERICA
COMPLIMENTARY COPY
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MONTEREY WINE COUNTRY HOW TO DRINK GRAPPA IN BRAZIL, SKIP THE BEACH, GRAB THE WINE
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Contents Issue no. 5
{Departments}
06
Winemaker
Doug Paul may not look familiar, but you might know him if you heard him
08
Gil Kulers
Secrets to getting more at the wine store and spending less
10
Eric J. Lyman For good reason, grappa, the oftlibeled Italian liquor, has its devotees
12 Food
A cooking class for couples by Harry’s Farmers Market in Marietta
14 Travel
Chattanooga’s history includes bloody civil war battles and a 1941 tune about a train
04 Publisher’s Note 18 In the Vineyard 46 Wine Ratings 64 Parting Shot Cover image © 2000-2009 Thomas Arvid. All Rights Reserved.
{Features} 20 | Arvid’s Oil
A boy from the bruising, blue-collar streets of Detroit somehow became one of the nation’s most skilled oil painters with wine as his creative fodder.
24 | The New Italy
Thanks to new investment and a winemaking history bursting with Italian influence, Brazilian wine is emerging in a blast of modernity and tradition.
Barking at | 34 Napa’s Heels
Like its bay’s woofing sea lions, Monterey County, Calif. enjoys making noise, but it does so with gorgeous vistas and a steady flow of good wine.
Winery Profile: | 41 Cloudy Bay Vineyards
These Marlborough Kiwis gave the wine industry’s cognoscenti a new way to look at an old grape and Sauvignon Blanc fans a new obsession
Grape Anticipation 3
Publisher’s Note
Welcome to the new & revised Grape Anticipation magazine We are now owned and operated by Ambriel Publishing Company based in Roswell, Ga. Ambriel specializes in niche, special interest publications and Grape Anticipation is the first brand to operate under this new umbrella.
Dear Reader:
I
n today’s climate of failed banks and dried up credit lines, our nation’s businesses face serious challenges. The publishing world in particular is being severely tested and we here at Grape Anticipation are no exceptions. With that said, the worst of times don’t necessarily guarantee failure. They also mean there is (left to right) Darrell, Craig, great opportunity. Dawn, Rick, Don, Dave Grape Anticipation has responded to these tough times by making some important changes. Those changes will mean a more entertaining and informative magazine for our readers and a more effective sales and marketing tool for our advertisers. So what have we done? • Secured a new round of financing to fund a restructuring of our organization • Hired a new management team to lead us through 2009 and beyond • Hired an experienced sales team focused on serving advertisers • Moved into a new corporate office to host visiting winemakers and tasting panels
And we’re not finished. We’re doing more to make our magazine better: • Improving our Web site with more social networking capabilities, a regularly updated wine events calendar and more • Redesigning the magazine with new departments, better features and more exciting wine coverage • Increasing our print quantity and distribution locations These changes will help us meet our goal of delivering the best wine coverage in Atlanta. Because no matter how tough things seem, sharing a good bottle of wine with family and friends has a way of bringing us closer together. And when times get tough, what’s more important than that? So we are proud to give you the first taste of Grape Anticipation’s 2009 vintage. Open and enjoy. It’s our hope that you’ll keep coming back for more.
Thanks from your new Grape aNTICIPATION team
Issue no. 5 Publisher Darrell Pulliam Editor Steve Stevens Sales & MarketinG VICE-PRESIDENT Craig McWilliams Account Representatives Nadine Bures Dave Smawley Production Digital Magazine Group Creative Director Joshua Thomas Designer Jeremiah Bates Contributing Writers Gil Kulers Eric J. Lyman Hope Philbrick Meredith Sherman Julianne Will John Blanchette Advertising Info (770) 518-5777 ads@insidegrape.com Grape Anticipation is published four times a year by Ambriel Publishing. Copyright by Grape Anticipation. All rights reserved. No material may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Issues are complimentary and can be found at qualified distribution locations. To have Grape Anticipation delivered to your office or business, please contact us at the following.
AMBRIEL PUBLISHING & MEDIA 1905 Woodstock Road, Ste 1200 Roswell, GA 30075 (770) 518-5777 Main Line (770) 518-0777 Fax President Dawn Kirk www.ambrielpublishing.com
4 Grape Anticipation
thomas Arvid
“Ultimate Destination ", 24” x 36”
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Thomas Arvid continues to astonish both art and wine enthusiasts with his stunning compositions. View this celebrated and accomplished artists' latest works available exclusively in Atlanta at Vinings Gallery.
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Winemaker
5
questions with Doug Paul
The Three Sisters Vineyards owner is Dahlonega’s Renaissance man: a farmer, winemaker, broadcaster, voice-over talent, Scotch drinker and all around nice guy
Courtesy of Three Sisters Vineyards
Paul’s winery sits on 184 acres in Dahlonega, Ga. (Right) Doug Paul
Grape Anticipation: You and your wife, Sharon, have a history with wine. Can you tell us about it?
DP:
Sharon was into wine way before me. I was a Scotch drinker. (I still enjoy the occasional peaty single malt.) But at one point, we both lived in New York City, and that time in Manhattan was the true beginning of our lifelong love affair with food and wine. In 1992, when our daughter Mittie was born, we started looking for some Georgia farmland to build a home, plant a few grapes … and here we are! Three Sisters is very much a family affair. GA: What are you doing in the vineyard this time of year?
DP:
April is pretty much the beginning of the growing season. All the pruning is done, and we are waiting for all the buds to break and begin growing. We pray until about the last week of the month that we don’t get frost, which can be devastating, like it was in 2007. We had a freeze for three days during the Easter weekend that year and lost about 75-80 percent of our usual yield. Thank goodness the experts say it was a 50-year weather fluke. Usually frost damage is much milder. In May, June and July, the vine canopy develops and is managed in anticipation of the harvest, which begins in mid-August. We are shoot positioning, overseeing the fruit development, spraying for bugs and mildew, and weed-eating in the vineyards. GA: We’ve heard about the Georgia Wine Country Festival that takes place at Three Sisters every June. Tell us about that event.
DP:
The Georgia Wine Country Festival is Three Sisters’ annual wine festival held in the vineyards the first full weekend of every June. Sharon and I wanted to do something that would be community oriented, and we usually have a local charity involved. Local
6 Grape Anticipation
and regional music is presented from the crush pad, and we invite various wineries to come and pour wines for attendees. There are vineyard wagon tours, chefs with wine and food pairings, and arts and crafts. Locally created chocolates and Georgia cheeses are featured. GA: Which of your wines do you enjoy most with food?
DP:
I love our Chestatee Rose with Sharon’s fried chicken tenders. Outstanding! And I love Fat Boy Red with pork tenderloin. Three Sisters Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend is great with a delicious steak. Our Cynthiana is outstanding with lamb. Overall, it is our belief that the best wine is made by consensus. That’s why no one person holds the title of “winemaker” at Three Sisters. I know that is a foreign concept for the wine show business crowd, but we think it is the absolute best way to create and present wines. It really is a team effort. GA: You had an interesting first career in broadcasting, with a client list including Ford, Walt Disney, Coke, Turner Broadcasting and NBC. How did that come about?
DP:
I grew up in a broadcasting family. My dad and oldest brother, Jay, are broadcasters. Eventually, I got an after-school job working for the local TV and radio station and fell in love with voice-over, writing and production. I have voiced TV commercials for Ford, Cream of Wheat, Ragu and Red Lobster, to name a few. My first big gig was for NBC in Burbank, and that led to doing voice-over for Turner Broadcasting, Cox Communications, HBO, Showtime, Tribune and other broadcast and cable channels. I’ve even voiced movie trailers and documentaries. When we saw the wine movie “Sideways,” it was funny to us that one of the lead characters was a voice-over guy! Voice-over and creative services will always be a part of our family’s life.
Cass Vineyards and Winery is located in the rolling, oak-studded hills between Paso Robles and Creston on California’s beautiful Central Coast. This area that the vineyard calls home offers quiet serenity for the visitor and a perfect growing season for wine grapes.
www.casswines.com 7350 Linne Road Paso Robles, CA 93446 805.239.1730
Gil Kulers, CWE
Spend Less, Get More
I
t’s one thing for self-important wine writers to claim good wine doesn’t have to cost an arm and a leg. It’s quite another when you’re staring down an ocean of choices at your wine retailer—$5 Pinot Grigios, $150 Cabernet Sauvignons and everything in between. What’s a frugal shopper to do? Follow a few simple guidelines, and you’ll be drinking well all by yourself without spending a lot of money. First, forget the familiar. In August 2008, I sat down with Dale Gordon DeSena to develop wine seminars for Taste of Atlanta. DeSena is the director of the annual food and drink festival held at Atlantic Station in October. She thought, considering the times, that I could suggest several inexpensive wines and talk about them in front of an audience. “How perfectly boring,” I said. “Why don’t we do something a little more fun?” The result was a sort of game show where the 80 audience members had to find the one expensive wine among the four unidentified glasses in front of them, three of which contained wines that cost less than $10 a bottle. The ringer was a bottle of Beaulieu Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon from Rutherford, Calif. The BV is a yummy wine; a great value at $36. The point of the game show/seminar, however, was not to indict wines like the BV, but to explain how a wine comes to cost that much. It comes down to supply and demand. Nestled in the heart of Napa Valley, Calif., the town of Rutherford has a mere 3,263 acres under vine, and there is not a square inch left in which to plant another grape. That’s not a lot when you consider there’s an entire world clamoring for wines from this special place. There’s the supply. This leads us to demand. You might not be familiar with Rutherford, but I’m sure you’ve heard about wines such as Caymus, Quintessa, Francis Ford Coppola’s Rubicon Estate, and Grgich Hills. They are special. But special comes at a price. Now, have you ever tasted or heard of a wine called Monte Oton? Most people haven’t. It’s an obscure wine from a little-known Spanish region called Campo de Borja. Can you imagine how many bottles of Monte Oton they’d sell if it had a $36 price tag? Not
“Consider why glass bottles with cork stoppers are better than any other container. Because they’re not”
8 Grape Anticipation
many, but 25 of those playing my find-the-wine game thought it was the more expensive wine. So if you can move out of your comfort zone a little and gravitate toward grapes and regions with which you are not entirely familiar, there’s a great chance you will be rewarded with delicious, inexpensive wines. Next consider why glass bottles with cork stoppers are better than any other container. Because they’re not. The second-largest gasp of the afternoon came when I unveiled Col di Sasso, a Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon from Tuscany, Italy. Why the gasp? This $9 wine comes in a screw-top bottle. More people are becoming comfortable with screw-tops, but they still recognize screw-top bottles as similar to those preferred by Skid Row residents. Even though the wine inside can be quite different. And quite good. Certainly, the biggest gasps came when I unveiled Bottle Four, which wasn’t a bottle at all: It was a box. The Black Box Central Coast Merlot was chosen by 18 of our game-show contestants. Some folks are getting the message that just because wine is packaged in a plastic bladder and placed in a cardboard box, it is not changed. But wide acceptance remains far away. Does a wine in a box lose some of its romantic cache? Absolutely. Some situations, such as anniversaries, graduations and successful parole hearings, demand more traditional containers and stoppers. But 750 milliliters of a boxed wine—a standard wine bottle size—goes for $6 to $10. And the quality and selection of boxed wines are good and getting better. They are made to enjoy every day; you can still choose more expensive, special wines for special occasions. So unless you really want to, you don’t have to spend a lot of money to drink good wine. These days, it’s easy. Gil Kulers writes about wine and food for The Atlanta Journal Constitution and Golf Digest. A certified wine educator with the Society of Wine Educators, he teaches private, in-home classes and at Cook’s Warehouse.
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Grappa: Wine’s Spirited Leftover
L
ike many people, I swore off grappa soon after the first fiery mouthful burned its way down my throat. Suppressing a cough and blinking through watery eyes, I knew the stylish, hand-blown bottle of what seemed to be little more than high-octane moonshine wasn’t for my taste buds. Fast-forward a few years. Now I am a grappa evangelist, the guy who sometimes chooses restaurants based on their grappa selection and who gently cajoles dinner partners into trying for themselves a sip or two of the maligned and misunderstood liquid. What happened? A bit of intellectual curiosity coupled with the belief that an Italian culture so right about what ends up on the dinner table can’t be so wrong about grappa. So I tried the odd grappa when it was available, and, over time, I realized that while bad grappa is very bad, good grappa is very, very good. Trouble is, most grappa is bad. Italian law requires that the pomace left over from the winemaking process be used to make something, and so most winemakers eagerly sell the stuff to distilleries that turn it into a powerful but one-dimensional drink approaching 140 proof (it may be telling that the other popular choice is turning it into ethanol). Bad grappa amounts to crystalclear firewater, a nod to the drink’s history as a harsh protection against cold nights and as a bitter folk remedy for anything from headaches to bronchitis and indigestion. It has rarely appealed to food lovers. Luckily, a few producers take the process more seriously. The resulting grappa is no less potent, but it can contain nuances as complex as those in wine—even if they can be more difficult to notice. Antonio Nardini, from the ancient Nardini grappa house, says he recommends that new grappa drinkers start out by pouring a couple of drops on the back of their hands and rubbing it in with the other hand before breathing in the aroma and then drinking. The friction helps some of the 10 Grape Anticipation
alcohol evaporate and makes the grappa’s natural aromas more apparent. Because any grape can be made into grappa, choosing a good grappa is largely a matter of knowing specific grapes and producers. Better grapes make better grappa, so choose a bottle from a vinicultural area known for its wine. The producer is just as important. Good winemakers generally make good grappa. And there are producers that specialize in making top-quality grappa, such as Nardini, or Jacopo Poli, Nonino, Brotto or Berta. An oily taste also gives a hint about the process, meaning the seeds were fermented. Not only does the taste make you pucker, but it can make a hangover more likely. A good grappa should, above all, taste clean. Another clue is to look for colored rather than clear grappa. That can mean it’s infused with something else (alcohol from fruit or nuts, for example), which can make the taste softer. But most of the time the color comes with aging in oak barrels (some color can also come from synthetic colorings, so beware of a reddish color, which can mean it gets too much of its coloring from artificial means). The years seem to soften the taste, and at its best it can take on woody flavors that recall fine whiskey. A final hint: I also try to stay away from elaborate and stylish bottles like the one that produced my first grappa, on the belief that I’d rather pay for what’s inside the bottle than for the bottle itself. Some Italians put a few drops in a cup of espresso coffee to make a “cafe corretto” (the coffee is “corrected” by the grappa), and in parts of northern Italy a few drops are sometimes added to the sugar remaining when a sugary espresso is finished, as a chaser. Some people even use a fine grappa mist to flavor salads or steaks. But I prefer my grappa straight. I like the young, clear grappa chilled and in a tall, thin glass. Aged grappa is better at room temperature and in a whisky glass or a brandy snifter. In either case, a few sips help the food digest, a surprisingly elegant finish to a great meal.
“While bad grappa is very bad, good grappa is very, very good.”
Eric Lyman, a former chef with a passion for wines, is currently a writer based in Rome, Italy.
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Food
Does Dinner Beat Diamonds?
Not for most perhaps, but a cooking class in Marietta has some couples salivating anyway By Meredith Sherman
I
fail to understand why a gift of jewelry is considered the height of romance. Diamond earrings can be as much of a last minute gift, albeit more expensive, than a basket of Foreigner cassette tapes and hand lotions you picked up at the car wash. As for floral bouquets, I love to get flowers for any occasion. However, I can’t help but assume that they are the tangible gift of “I’m sorry.” Chocolates are nice, but I’m still hungry. Diamonds, flowers and chocolates are all wonderful gifts, welcome at any time. And yet Harry’s Farmers Market in Marietta might have cracked the code for true romance: Dinner is the ultimate expression of love. It was evident recently as Martha Oh, Harry’s event coordinator, hosted seven couples in a hands-on, couples-only cooking class. The group covered the entire commitment continuum: first date, newlyweds and couples married for 30 years. Ben Zourek, a member of Harry’s seafood team, was our romantic recipe guide for the evening. Both he and Oh did all the prep work, so that the couples spent the evening Couples cooking, laughing and eating. cOOKING CLASS The menu was fantastiFor more information cally crafted for its ease of on the couples’ cooking execution, yet its appearance class at Harry’s Farmers of gourmet difficulty. LovMarket in Marietta, ers were welcomed with an email Martha Oh at amusé of pumpkin soup with Martha.Oh@wholefoods. com or call Harry’s “aphrodisiac spices.” It was customer service at lovely and creamy, with pro770-578-4400 nounced heat from cayenne pepper. Next was a shaved fennel salad with shallots, blood orange and succulently marinated white anchovies (Keep your eye out for these fish—Harry’s has started to carry them in the seafood section). Although Cobb County does not allow alcohol to be poured at Harry’s in Marietta, (the store does not have a pouring license), Zourek and his wine team made some suggestions to accompany the menu. Never underestimate the importance of wine when
12 Grape Anticipation
preparing your recipe for love! The wine team recommended a dry rosé or an Austrian Grüner Veltliner with these first two courses. A rosé would heighten the flavor of the blood orange, and the Grüner’s grassy attributes complement the sweet fennel. The main course was a seared rack of lamb, roasted carrots and buttered pasta. Zourek explained the importance of properly seasoning your meat and seafood. “Season it like you mean it!” he proclaimed. Next, he said, you should wait until your sauté pan is very hot, so you will get a nice sear on the protein. This locks in the flavor and juices when you continue cooking to your desired doneness. The flavors of this course were rich without being heavy. Likewise, the wine pairing should be the same. For white wine drinkers, the wine team suggested a Spanish Albariño. Some say it is one of the few whites that can stand up to the gaminess and fat of lamb. Chardonnay can sometimes do the trick, but unoaked Albariño does not require a cream sauce to bring out its flavors. For red wine lovers, the wine pros recommended Spanish again: a Tempranillo and Grenache (known as Garnacha in Spain) blend. These grapes are perfectly matched for lamb. They are earthy with their own gamey flavors; their natural acidity, however, keeps the wine profoundly light. Over a dessert of wild blueberry tart and Meyer lemon sorbet, one group discussed the roots of a solid relationship. “Absolutely, positively, you have to tell the truth,” David, a happy husband, announced. At another table, the answer was less poetic: “We just met in the parking lot. I only wanted the free food.” Touché. Harry’s Farmers Market in Marietta hosts cooking classes the second Wednesday of every month. The classes are educational and fun, so make a night of it and bring a date: You might be surprised how much easier it is to flirt on a full stomach. Meredith Sherman is an overeducated wine consultant who uses her degree in English to wax poetic about alcohol. Her parents are proud.
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Travel
12
Reasons to check out chattanooga
Riverboats, trains and hang gliders are just a few of the incentives enticing travelers to stop in this vibrant city on the banks of the Tennessee River By Hope S. Philbrick
Photograph by Hope Philbrick
Lookout Mountain Flight Park
Coolidge Park Carousel
Coolidge Park Carousel
Amid
the clatter of breakfast dishes being cleared from tables, a representative of the Chattanooga Area Convention and Visitors Bureau rose to his feet and asked a group of 30 visitors, “How many of you have ever been to Chattanooga?” Most hands went up. Then he asked, “How many of you have actually visited Chattanooga and not just driven through it?” Most hands went down. But over the course of my five day visit, I discovered a dozen reasons to park the car and get out. So try these tips on your next trip to Tennessee.
14 Grape Anticipation
Most images are courtesy of The Chattanooga Area Convention and Visitors Bureau; see individual pictures for other other photography credits
Raccoon Mountain Caverns
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Travel
6. Rock City
8. Creative Discovery Museum
Penguins’ Rock, the newest exhibit at the Tennessee Aquarium, featuring five pairs of macaroni penguins and five pairs of gentoo penguins. From the gallery you can watch the cold-climate birds’ activities above and below water. A wave machine creates ocean-like swells that give the penguins a more natural environment and encourages them to play.
1
visit
clean, and if you don’t mind a dose of commercialism, visit Ruby Falls, a cave transformed into a tourist attraction in 1929. The highlight of the tour is a 145-foot underground waterfall.
in Lookout Mountain Flight Park, the nation’s largest and most popular full-time hang-gliding school and resort, located just 20 minutes from Chattanooga. Sail through the air at 2,000 feet on a tandem flight with a professional at your side, or work toward becoming a certified hang-gliding pilot so you can fly solo.
on the historic Coolidge Park Carousel, which was restored by artist Bud Ellis, in the seven-acre park on the north shore of the Tennessee River. Then learn how colorful carousel animals are crafted from blocks of wood at Horsin’ Around, the nation’s only carousel-carving school, about 15 minutes from the park in Soddy Daisy. Ellis and his students at Horsin’ Around are building a carousel for the Chattanooga Zoo that features endangered and threatened animals. Carvings under way include a wolf, a manatee and a sea turtle.
a cave. If you like nature unobstructed, take a spelunking tour at Raccoon Mountain Caverns. You’ll get dirty from head to toe and strain muscles you never knew you had, but the reward is a chance to see rock formations such as stalactites, stalagmites, flowstone and rimstone up close. If you prefer walking upright, holding a handrail and keeping your clothes
the Incline Railway, the world’s steepest passenger railway, with a 72.7 percent track grade. In operation since 1895, the ride offers panoramic views of Lookout Mountain valley. A one-way trip lasts approximately 15 minutes; round-trip rides are offered three times every hour, and you can start the trip at either the top or bottom stations.
2
3
Hang Glide
Explore
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4
5
Spin
Ride
6
Wander the 4,100 feet of trails
in Rock City that incorporate 200-million-year-old geological formations, gardens with more than 400 native plant species and kitschy, gnome-adorned caverns. Highlights of the 15-acre preserve include a 100-foot waterfall, an overlook with a panoramic view of seven states and a 200-foot swinging bridge. inside a train car at the Chattanooga Choo Choo Holiday Inn. Guest accommodations include 48 Victorian train cars, each outfitted with queen-sized beds (some also have trundles), private baths and modern amenities. The 24-acre complex includes the Model Railroad Museum, restaurants, shopping and Terminal Station, a train depot designed in 1900.
7
Sleep
your inner child at the Creative Discovery Museum. Consistently ranked among the nation’s top 20 children’s museums, the place is designed especially for kids ages 12 and younger but is fun for all ages. Interactive exhibits provide an opportunity to build a robot, sail boats through locks and dams, play musical instruments, create
8
Release
7. Choo Choo Holiday Inn
11. Bluff View Art District
More Information Bluff View Art District www.bluffviewartdistrict.com 9. Southern Belle Riverboat
Chattanooga Choo Choo Holiday Inn www.choochoo.com Creative Discovery Museum www.cdmfun.org
sculptures, see rocks glow in the dark, dig for dinosaur bones and more. There’s a special area designed just for toddlers. along the Tennessee River 9 Float aboard the Southern Belle Riverboat and learn the city’s history while taking in the sights. Cruises for sightseeing, lunch and dinner are available, as are special tours such as the four-hour Fall Leaf Cruise that sails through the Tennessee River Gorge, also known as the Grand Canyon of the South. (or actually watch 10 Make Out the movie) at Wilderness Outdoor Movie Theater. If you’ve never been to a drive-in, or if you want to revisit the good old days, pull in to view current movies—for example, Spiderman 3 on its opening weekend—at prices way below those of most indoor theaters. The concessions stand is also bargain-priced. Double features are projected onto a 100-foot-by-50-foot screen, the largest in the world. through the Bluff View Art District, which boasts restaurants, galleries, gardens and a historic bed and breakfast. The historic
11
Stroll
neighborhood offers spectacular views of the Tennessee River, downtown Chattanooga and the Walnut Street Bridge, plus opportunities to play bocce ball, watch chocolatiers prepare tantalizing desserts, view sculptures and shop for fine art. Visit Rembrandt’s Roasting Company to learn how coffee beans are roasted and sample a variety of flavors. wine at Tennessee’s premier wine-tasting festival, Wine Over Water, held on the Walnut Street Bridge each fall. Taste more than 100 wines from around the world and dishes from area restaurants while listening to local musicians.
12
Sip
There are plenty of reasons to visit Chattanooga, and this list just scratches the surface. Plan a longer stay and enjoy the metro area’s art museums, nature centers, shopping boutiques, hiking trails, restaurants, kayaking and mountain biking. The beautiful sights and friendly people make it worth the drive to, and not just through, Chattanooga. Hope S. Philbrick is a freelance writer because she doesn’t think work and fun should be mutually exclusive
Horsin’ Around www.horsin-around.net Lookout Mountain Flight Park www.hanglide.com Lookout Mountain Incline Railway www.ridetheincline.com Raccoon Mountain Caverns www.wildcave.com Rock City www.seerockcity.com Ruby Falls www.rubyfalls.com Southern Belle Riverboat www.chattanoogariverboat.com Tennessee Aquarium www.tnaqua.com Wilderness Outdoor Movie Theater www.wildernesstheater.com Wine Over Water www.wineoverwater.org Want to know more? Call the Chattanooga Area Convention and Visitors Bureau at (800) 322-3344 or visit them at www.chattanoogafun.com.
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I n th e v i n eya Argentina’s Terr azas de los Andes Winery & Vineyards
18 Grape Anticipation
Malbec vines. The vineyards sit just north of the Mendoza River in Argentina, but the vines, thriving at 3500 feet, quench their thirst mostly with snowmelt from one of the Andes’ massive peaks, Andean Mountain. Terrazas de los Andes winery has made sparkling wines here since the late 1950s and still wines since 1999.
Image courtesy of Möet Hennessy USA
a rd
At the foot of the great Andes mountains, a gravel road cuts between rows of trellised
Grape Anticipation 19
Detroit produced the modern wine world’s most famous painter.
Thomas The Life & Times of
Arvid
Now he calls Atlanta home. By Steve Stevens
If you’re driving to Napa Valley from Detroit, the directions are not very complicated. Drive west until you see Lake Michigan, then follow the coastline southwest to Interstate 80. After that, drive until you hit Utah. You’re not supposed to go through Atlanta. But as Thomas Arvid can attest, that doesn’t mean you can’t get there from here. All Images © 2000-2009 Thomas Arvid. All Rights Reserved.
Grape Anticipation 21
N
apa Valley’s deep connection to wine would later influence Arvid the painter, but in 1984, it was simply Arvid the man who journeyed from frigid Detroit to the heat of Atlanta. When he left the Wolverine State, he left everything. He left the city where he was born and raised. He left his family: grandparents, a mother, father, two brothers and a sister. Most of his friends remained in Detroit. Still, there was something he knew about his relationship with his hometown, something that turned out to have an enormous impact on the futures of both Arvid and Detroit. He knew it even then, maybe before anyone else. What he knew was that he was changing and growing. Detroit was not. “Really, the Detroit area was a one-industry town, and it was something I recog-
22 Grape Anticipation
Oil paintings by Thomas Arvid, from left to right: The Collection, Room to Breathe and Something Worth Celebrating.
nized even back then,” Arvid said. “It wasn’t going to be getting any better any time soon. I came down to Atlanta with a friend of mine and just fell in love with the city. It was young, alive, and it was growing.” In Detroit, Arvid said, all of the best jobs were held by people with no intention of leaving them. “They were going to stay in that job forever. Until they died.” Since then, the fortunes of the storied port city on the banks of the Detroit River and the young man who left it have decidedly diverged, and the difference could not be more dramatic. While Detroit struggles publicly and mightily to find its place in a new world economy, Arvid is enjoying the sort of success that he could only imagine as a young man who once sweated in press shops and painted signs for a living. Now, he is a nationally recognized artist with an adoring and well-heeled clientele. He travels on weekends to charm collectors and show his work to galleries and the general public. He is wined and dined in New York City. He jets to San Diego. He is a star
in Napa Valley. Many galleries have trouble keeping his paintings on the wall, earning him a luxurious home a few miles north of Atlanta that might turn many General Motors executives green with envy. But success was never assured. In fact, when he brought his first paintings to a gallery in Napa, he thought wine art would be everywhere, that he’d find a flooded market. Instead, he found a gaping need. “When I first went to Napa Valley with my paintings, I thought I’d find wine paintings in all the art galleries, but there wasn’t even one. Everybody painted vineyard scenes and clusters of grapes.” On the contrary, Arvid, whose forte has been painting remarkably realistic still lifes with wine at their center, was an immediate success. “I left six paintings in the first gallery in Napa Valley, and they sold them all overnight. I mean, they never even made it to the wall.” That success has afforded Arvid certain opportunities, especially when it comes to wine. Like trying the 1997 Harlan Estates,
“ I left six paintings in the first gallery in Napa Valley, and they sold them all overnight. I mean, they never even made it to the wall.” – Thomas Arvid
which Arvid calls the best wine he’s ever tasted. Incidentally, critic Robert Parker called Harlan’s 1997 Cabernet-dominated Bordeaux blend “one of the greatest Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines I have ever tasted,” and awarded it 100 points, his highest rating. “It’s not even fair to call that wine,” Arvid said. “I’ve tasted it several times since, just to see if it was really that good.” It always is, he said. To some, it may seem strange that wine has played such a central role in the life of a man born into a blue-collar Detroit family. In his 2008 film “Gran Torino,” Clint Eastwood plays a retired Detroit autoworker who quaffs Pabst Blue Ribbon beer and sprays racial epithets like bullets. With a
beat-up Detroit as a backdrop, wine picnics are nowhere to be seen. Arvid’s father knows the automobile industry well; he worked as a foreman in a General Motors factory. All of Arvid’s siblings are still in Detroit. His older brother operates heavy equipment, and his younger brother works with vending machines and does custom welding. His sister works as a dental assistant. Neither art nor wine is prevalent in any of their professions, at least as they exist in Detroit. But to Arvid it all makes perfect sense. “Now that I can look back at how it all happened, it’s really obvious,” he said. “When you go to Napa Valley, you cherish it. The scenery, everything about it. But to the people who live in Napa Valley, it’s
just there. All the time, it’s a part of their everyday lives. “I truly think it took someone not from Napa Valley to kind of capture how we cherish just a bottle of wine,” he said. Perspective is an artist’s tool, and Arvid has used his to great effect. It took him out of a life that didn’t suit him and into one that did. Looking at one of Arvid’s paintings, someone might feel as if they’re looking at the world through the artist’s eyes, even if just for a few moments. The more you learn about the man, his work and his life, the more you realize how good a thing that actually is. Steve Stevens is a writer and editor and has been covering wine since 2003.
Grape Anticipation 23
All images courtesy Wines of Brazil.
Beyon By Julianne Will
The
nd
In Brazil, a nascent wine country is on the horizon
Beaches
Plan a trip to Brazil, & your friends will wax poetic about beaches, meat on a stick, beaches, Carnival, beaches, sunshine & beaches. But Brazil is much more than Rio de Janeiro.
Grape Anticipation    25
BRAZIL
In
fact, Brazil is the fifth-largest country in the world, larger than the continental United States. Brazil is also the fifth most populous country in the world. It’s diverse, geographically and culturally.
So perhaps it should not come as such a surprise that the southern part of Brazil has far more in common with Italian wine country than any beach. In the state of Rio Grande do Sul, near Uruguay, it is rolling hills, green countrysides and charming villages. And the wines available in the United States this year from that region also have more in common with Europe than the big, bold Malbecs and Carmeneres earning fame for South American neighbors Argentina and Chile. Yet they’re every bit as representative of their place and their culture, their terroir. In Serra Gaucha, which produces 90 percent of all wine in Brazil, you’re every bit as likely to find Italian cappelletti soup as a side of Brazilian beef. For those who only know the Brazil of lime and cachaca cocktails, sand and sun, these fine wines from Brazil will come as a surprise as they make their way to the States. Roberta Boscato is speaking rapidly in Portuguese, so rapidly that her translator can’t keep up. Roberta, daughter of Boscato Wines director Clovis Boscato and the vineyard’s
26 Grape Anticipation
young engineer, is describing the technology with which she monitors the microclimates in the family’s high-altitude vineyards. And she’s passionate about the family business. She and her peers in Serra Gaucha come from a tradition of winemakers and growers, descendants of the Italians who came to the state of Rio Grande do Sul in the latter part of the 19th century seeking land and the promise it held. They arrived with vines and first grew grapes in their backyards to make wine for their own tables. Later, some began to sell their grapes to larger wineries, still keeping a little back for themselves. Many of the vineyard plots that dot the hills today are small and family owned, six acres or so. By the late 1980s, however, it no longer was profitable to sell grapes to the big producers. Some grape growers began to produce their own wines and sell them directly to the consumer. They even brought a few of those wines to the United States. But the first exports 20 years ago were much more similar to the backyard, homemade variety, and not in a good way.
BRAZIL
Today,
however, the sophisticated examples—primarily red, with a few classic whites—hitting American soil bear much more resemblance to the restrained and complex wines of Europe, with lower levels of alcohol and fresh acidity. Even the Tannat grape, which can make notoriously scratchy and rustic wines, generally has smooth polish here. It’s all thanks to multimillion-dollar investments in equipments and consultants—including the famous Michel Rolland—by the same Italian families who brought those first little vines overseas. Brazil is today the fifth-largest producer of wines in the southern hemisphere, and its wine makers are poised to expand worldwide. At Boscato, Roberta reads data from monitors installed at ground level and at root level throughout the family’s vineyards that send back seven measurements such as dew, wind and sunlight every 15 minutes. Located in the southern part of Rio Grande do Sul, in the Rio das Antas Valley, Boscato’s vineyards climb rolling hills to an altitude of around 2,600 feet. The changes in altitude and sun exposure from plot to plot make for drastically varied results. Roberta tracks those changes from 10 microclimates both to plan for the current season and beyond and to take immediate action if necessary. The growers at Lidio Carraro Winery also have mapped the microclimates in their vineyards. This guided grape selection as they established new vineyards in 1998 and today helps them evaluate the need for pruning and fertilization. Patricia Carraro and her brother, pictured hand-in-hand with their parents in the family vineyards on the back of the winery’s business cards, are poised to lead Lidio Carraro abroad, the fifth generation to make wine in their family but only the second to do so from these new vineyards with technology and quality controls. And Miolo Winery has poured $60 million into its operations since 1997—buying buildings, equipment, all the tools necessary to be sure its first impression in the United States is a good one. While the Miolo brothers still are at the helm, the staff has expanded to include an enologist and an international relations director. Formal education in viticulture and winemaking has been key to taking tradition to the next level. These families have sent their sons and daughters away to school to learn enology,
management and marketing. The children have returned with educations and changes. And yet some things never change. On a visit one sunny morning to Don Laurindo winery, Laurindo Brandelli himself was walking in the vineyards, inspecting the vines as he does every day despite his 77 years. This marriage of tradition and quality is being carefully guarded. Six wineries in Vale dos Vinhedos, a sub-region of Serra Gaucha, came together in 1995 to form the Vale dos Vinhedos Wine Producers Association (known in Brazil as Aprovale) . They applied for creation of a Denomination of Origin in 1998, and Vale dos Vinhedos was named the first Brazilian indicación geográfica in 2002. It was recognized by the European Union in January 2007. Wines with the Control Label IPVV must have been grown and bottled in the valley. They undergo tests and tastings to be sure they’ve met certain standards for quality. Only wineries who are members of Aprovale are permitted to submit wines for this label. The result of all this organization, investment and interest in global markets? Some really beautiful wine.
Brazil is today the fifth-largest producer of wines in the southern hemisphere, and its wine makers are poised to expand worldwide. 28 Grape Anticipation
BRAZIL
Red
varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Gamay, Tannat and some traditional Italian grapes such as Ancellotta. The bulk of the whites are made from Chardonnay, Muscat, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. The region produces some sparkling wines that can compete on a world stage. Casa Valduga, which began using the champagne method 20 years ago, has one of the largest sparkling wine cellars in Latin America. Brazilians on the beaches in the north like the sweet sparklers. But we won’t get to see much of that in the States—yet. Brazilian producers fear a lack of acceptance. Instead, they come bearing mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay first. Alcohol levels are often moderate, at 11 to 12 percent compared with California’s sometimes 15 percent versions. Reds have a little bit of tannin, but it’s generally smooth and soft. Reds also are often barrel-aged in French oak for a more subtle influence than American oak. And most of the wines are foodfriendly; their balanced flavors and acidity enhance food, rather than overtake it.
Brazil’s Best Wineries Casa Perini
Luiz Argenta
Aurora
Boscato Fine Wines
The Casa Perini facility in the hills of Serra Gaucha includes the original home of Juan Perini, who first started making wine there. His father, Guiseppe Perini, arrived from Veneto in 1876. In 1970, Benildo Perini, grandson of Guiseppe, started making table wine under the brand Jota Pe (for Juan Perini). Casa Perini, their fine wine label, was launched in 1996. Guiseppe’s great-grandson Pablo Perini has joined his father in overseeing production.
Brothers Deunir and Itacir Neco Argenta bought the land for Luiz Argenta in 1999 and founded the winery in honor of their family patriarch, Luiz. The winery has invested heavily in research and technology recently, experimenting with canopies, pruning, soil drainage and terracing in its vineyards at 2,800 feet; it is importing technology from Italy and Spain for a new winery facility.
Aurora is the largest cooperative in Brazil. It began with 16 families in 1931; today there are more than 1,100 families producing about 10 million gallons (38 million liters) of juice and wine annually under several labels. Aurora gives tours of its cellars and tank rooms, which are more functional than fancy. Aurora affords very small producers a way to sell their grapes and make wine, and offers its members access to education, health care and research.
Clovis Boscato started the winery with his brother, Valmor, in 1983. Clovis is the enologist; Valmor the grape grower. Clovis’s daughter Roberta is the agricultural engineer. The Boscato vineyards sit at an average altitude of 2,300-2,600 feet, up a winding road above their winery, cellars and retail store down in the town of Nova Pádua.
www.vinicolaperini.com.br
30 Grape Anticipation
www.luizargenta.com.br
www.vinicolaaurora.com.br
www.boscato.com.br
In Rio Grande do Sul, the cultures of Latin America, Italy and the gauchos (cowboys) harmonize in great food, fine wines and gracious hospitality. Each winery, each family has its story. Here, just a few whose names you may see here in the States:
Vinicola Salton
Don Laurindo
Casa Valduga
Miolo
The Salton family arrived from Veneto, Italy, in 1878, bringing several grapevine sprouts. They were among the earliest to formalize operations, founding their company in 1910. Today, managed by the third generation, they produce 20 million bottles annually. Salton engages in a great deal of research—there are plots for testing varietals and measuring grape ripeness. Salton built a gleaming facility in 2004 housing the winery, tasting rooms, laboratories and a retail shop.
The property on which this small winery is situated belonged to director and enologist Ademir Brandelli’s great-grandfather, who emigrated from Verona in 1887. The company is named for Don Laurindo Brandelli, Ademir’s father, who founded the company in 1991. Don Laurindo hopes to increase exports of its fine wines from 5 percent to 20; most sales now come from boutiques, telephone and Internet orders, restaurants and purchases at the winery. Don Laurindo bottled a lush red blend for the family in 2005 to celebrate the 10th anniversary of its first Tannat in Brazil.
Casa Valduga firmly remains a family operation. The large, modern winery, which has expanded to include a restaurant, tours and guesthouses hosting as many as 25 couples, is run by brothers Pedro and João Valduga, and decisions require the approval of all family members. Pedro and João were the first in their family to be able to study enology. And Pedro always wears a straw hat as a reminder of the time when he was judged too poor to enter the nearby bank because of his peasant attire.
With ISO 9001 and 22000 certification, as well as the services of international consultant Michel Rolland, Miolo is a highly structured, progressive business. The company is just 20 years old, but patriarch Guiseppe Miolo came from Veneto, Italy, in 1897, and Miolo remains in the hand of his descendants. Brothers Paulo, Darcy and Antonio have proven business savvy, partnering with Villa Europa Hotel across the road and establishing nine tasting rooms around Brazil in an attempt to grow their domestic market.
www.salton.com.br
www.donlaurindo.com.br
www.casavalduga.com.br
www.miolo.com.br
Grape Anticipation 31
BRAZIL
Like Europe ... on a budget
Since
1988, when Aurora Cooperative brought the first Brazilian wine to the States, 18 members of Wines from Brazil, an agency designed to organize and promote international efforts, have begun exporting. Their first targets are the United States, Switzerland, Germany, the Czech Republic and Holland. Wines from Brazil hopes to reach $5 million in annual exports by December 2009, but its members were on track to reach that goal already in 2008. With continued success, the United States might yet get to see Brazil’s best wines, including a beautifully balanced Gewürztraminer; a different and distinct 100 percent Tannat; a fresh and fruity unoaked Cabernet Franc; and a range of sparkling Muscats. Until then, these new wines bearing the influence of family pride and history are an excellent excuse to plan a trip to Brazil—no beach gear necessary. Julianne Will is a writer specializing in food, wine, travel and fitness. She passed the Introductory Level of the Court of Sommeliers and regularly enjoys a nice glass of wine in Chicago.
Southern Brazil is accessible and beautiful for those who want to experience the wines in their place Tourism centered on wine is increasingly bread and butter for the restaurateurs, artisans and retailers in the Serra Gaucha region of Brazil. Eno-tourism is even drawing new investments to the area as wineries develop tours, build tasting rooms and otherwise roll out the welcome mat. With more than 30 wineries in the Vale dos Vinhedos area within Serra Gaucha alone, wine country excursions in southern Brazil can be as easy and enjoyable as rambling around Sonoma County…and as intriguing as a trip to Europe. Even better, it’s akin to a trip to Europe on a budget. The dollar does far better against the Brazilian real than the euro.
Where to stay Villa Europa Hotel and Spa Do Vinho, just completed in 2007, sprung up in response to enotourism interest. This undertaking is a partnership with Miolo winery across the road and includes such reciprocal arrangements as a tour for hotel
guests at the winery and Miolo’s wine for sale at the hotel. Villa Europa’s Spa Do Vinho also maintains a sense of place. It’s the fifth French Caudalíe spa in the world, and it uses grape products such as seeds and stems in its vinotherapy treatments. For more information, see the Web
Brazilian Steakhouse
Rooms available for private parties. Reservations taken online or by phone. Catering also available. 1927 Powers Ferry Rd. • Located just south of Windy Hill Rd. • 770-850-1540 • www.salgrosso.com 32 Grape Anticipation
site at www.spadovinho.com.br. Spa appointments fill quickly on weekends during their busy months: December-March and July. (Our summer is their winter.) Guests wanting spa services should book before they arrive by emailing spadovinho@ spadovinho.com.br.
Where to go If you wish to take a day trip, a Villa Europa concierge can help you rent a car or hire a travel agent to arrange an excursion. Casa Valduga,
Salton and other wineries in the region are a short drive and lure guests with tours, tasting rooms, gift shops and restaurants. Along the winding roads in the region, studios featuring the works of painters, cheese-makers (including the Italian pecorino) and other artisans beckon. For more high-end shopping, visitors can head to Bento Gonçalves, a wealthy enclave of 100,000 with designer clothing boutiques and a fresh, blossoming downtown. Handcrafted wood furniture runs a close second to the wine industry here.
There’s often an English-speaker at tourist destinations, and Villa Europa always has on English-speaking staffer on duty.
br/en/index.htm). Chicken hearts and wild boar come around along with the finest cuts of beef and lamb; enjoy a giant salad bar, too.
What to eat
How to get there
Pasta and cappelletti soup provide a taste of the region’s history. But you’ll find more meat-from-a-spit than you can shake a stick at from churrascarias such as Castelo Benevenutti, between Bento Gonçalves and Garabaldi (www.giuseppe.com.
Travelers to Brazil need a visa in addition to a passport. See the General Consulate of Brazil’s website at www.brazilconsulate.org. Follow the instructions and allow at least a month to process the application. The fee is $130 when applying in person; $150 via courier or mail. Typically a visa will be valid for five years. Delta flies direct from Atlanta to São Paulo. From there, TAM flies into Porto Alegre, the capital of Rio Grande do Sul where the Serra Gaucha region is situated. Villa Europa can send a car to pick up visitors at the airport in Porto Alegre, which is approximately an hour and 45 minutes’ drive. They will transport as many as four guests at a time for 200 reales (per trip, not per person) each way.
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34 Grape Anticipation
Otters, seals and wine steals in
Monterey • By John Blanchette
Things haven’t changed all that much since the sardines left Monterey Bay in the mid-1940s and the canneries closed down. There still is a cacophony from the roar of the sea when the tide rolls in, the gulls screaming over the water, the unmannerly sea lions barking at all hours, their sound carrying for miles on the damp salt breezes. The kelp beds at low tide provide the proper stink to Steinbeck’s seaside memory. The bones of history can still be found in the environs of Monterey Bay, this much-visited, sophisticated and stunningly beautiful part of California.
Images courtesy of The Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association and the Monterey Area Convention & Visitors Bureau
Grape Anticipation 35
Cannery Row… is a poem, a stin k … the whole street rumbles and groans and scream s and rattles. —John Ste inbeck , from his 1945 novel
Located
south of Santa Cruz, the bay curves into the land for about 55 miles, running through the town of Moss Landing, where most of the commercial fishing fleets dock; past Castroville, the artichoke heart of America; down to Pacific Grove and the golf paradise of Pebble Beach. It ends at lovely Carmel and Big Sur, home to other writers such as Henry Miller, Upton Sinclair and Robinson Jeffers, and to photographers Ansel Adams and Edward Weston (whose works are on display at the Monterey Museum of Art).
“Cannery Row ”
Monterey was the capital of California under Mexican and Spanish rule, until the seat of government moved to Sacramento in the late 1800s. Nature is abundant here, on land and at sea. The Monterey Bay Aquarium has captured the bounty of the local waters in its exhibits, showcasing sea otters, jellyfish, giant ocean sunfish, a variety of menacing sharks, crustaceans and nervous schools of food and baitfish. Monterey Bay forms the west coast of the fertile Salinas Valley, America’s salad bowl, whose rich farmland plays a major figure in native son Steinbeck’s works. But instead of the “Grapes of Wrath,” this Eden to the West now brings world attention to the area with a new crop: wine grapes.
Wineries of Monterey
J. Lohr
By its very nature, wine country must be beautiful, and Monterey is no exception. It is bordered by the sea and the inland mountains guarding California’s Central Valley. Warm days bring offshore breezes across Monterey Bay that temper the wine grapes growing among the hills and undulating plains of this sparsely settled land. During my week in Monterey, I visited every wine appellation and tasted wines from more than 85 vineyards. I can personally testify to the quality and variety now produced in the hills and valleys of Monterey County. The wines are by and large a great value, most in the $10-$25 range. Besides Monterey, eight other official wine appellations are now recognized,
36 Grape Anticipation
including Santa Lucia Highlands (my favorite…you seemingly can’t find a bad bottle from this area), San Bernabe, Chalone, Arroyo Seco, Carmel Valley, Hames Valley, San Antonio Valley and San Luca. The best wine I tasted was the Pinot Noir from Belle Glos, spectacular but expensive ($50). Here are some of Monterey County’s premier wineries and vineyards:
Chalone
J. Lohr: In the early 1970s, Jerry Lohr decided to use his farming background to develop vineyards in the Arroyo Seco area of Monterey. He was one of the pioneers bringing California wines to the international level. He planted 280 acres, which have since sprawled to more than 900 acres, primarily producing Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Noir. His wines are widely distributed in the United States and in 25 foreign markets. Chalone: Heavily influenced by the wines of Burgundy, Dick Graff established Chalone Vineyard in 1966 along the Gavilan Mountain Range, 1,800 feet above the Salinas Valley. The vines sit at the base of an extinct volcano in mineral-rich limestone soils similar to those in the Burgundy region. Graff employs French techniques and oak to make his Burgundystyle Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
There are an amazing number of consistently good wines being produced throughout the county, from the Santa Cruz border on the north to Paso Robles and the Central Coast on the south. Pinot Noirs do exceptionally well, but Monterey’s wide range of geography, climate and soils are generally good hosts to most major wine grape varietals. Beyond the wine, a sunset tour of the private street, 17-Mile Drive, meanders along the magnificent coast and through the homes and golf courses of Pebble Beach (there’s a $9 fee per car). Onlookers watched a camera crew shooting a commercial for a new automobile called Monterey on a cliff overlooking the ocean and a gnarled, wind-weary cyprus tree. Back in the town of Monterey, wander through the old streets and shops of Cannery Row, where you’ll find
Estancia
Estancia: Estancia produces an excellent moderately priced Pinot Noir. In 1986 Augustin Huneeus left Franciscan Winery, purchased the Paul Mason Vineyard Ranches in Soledad and renamed the vineyard Estancia, Spanish for “estate.” The Chilean native had been in the international wine business in South America and Europe for 25 years before coming to California to express his winemaking philosophy. Hahn Estates: Some of the best wines in Monterey County come from the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation. Hahn Estates is located there, overlooking the Salinas Valley. The beautifully planted vineyard was originally composed of the Smith and Hook horse ranches; Nicky Hahn adopted their names for his wine when it premiered in 1980. In 1991 he added his own name to the
Hahn Estates
label, becoming Hahn Estates/ Smith & Hook Winery. Incidentally, Hahn means rooster in German, hence the red cock on label. Blackstone: Another offering good quality, affordable wines, Blackstone Vineyard was established in 1990 in Gonzales and produces approachable, full-bodied and well-balanced wines. It is especially known for sponsoring rock concerts and the Austin City Limits Music Festival. Paraiso Vineyards: In Spanish “Paraiso” means “heaven” or “paradise.” It was the name early Spanish settlers gave to this region of Monterey County. In 1973, Rich and Claudia Smith arrived in Monterey and now harvest more than 3,000 acres of wine grapes, selling most to other vintners. But in 1988
Chateau Julien
they started limited production of their own premium wine under the Paraiso label, with grapes harvested from the southern end of the Santa Lucia Highlands. The climate brings a lovely complexity to the wines, thanks to the long hang time and vine-thinning techniques to concentrate flavors. Chateau Julien: Modeled after a chateau on the French/Swiss border, Chateau Julien is a lovely boutique vineyard set on 16 acres in the lush Carmel Valley. Its tasting room is among the most elegant in Monterey County. Bob and Patty Brower opened the vineyard in 1982; their first vintage was 1985. Merlot is the premier grape grown on the property, with some oaked Chardonnay and Sangiovese, but the main attractions are the chateau, French gardens and the grounds.
Grape Anticipation 37
several wine tasting rooms sampling many of the local vineyards, as well as boutiques, galleries, craft shops, restaurants and bars with live entertainment, all tucked inside the old canneries. The aquarium at the end of Cannery Row is an absolute must. The Zagat Travel Guide names it the top aquarium in the country and the third best travel destination. You can spend hours mesmerized by the exhibits of coral reefs, jellyfish, giant sea tanks and amusing otters. The aquarium also has several excellent restaurants where you can observe sea creatures inside a 20-foot high kelp bed. The Portola Café and Restaurant has a great dessert chef. Try the goat cheesecake with pineapple chunks and pomegranate sauce. You can work off dinner on the Recreation Trail, a three-mile bik-
More Information Check these guides out: “Monterey Land and See: The Official Travel Guide” and “Monterey Bay Wine & Travel.” For more on area tasting rooms and Monterey, contact the Monterey County Vintner’s & Growers Association at www.montereywines.org. Also see www.seemonterey.com.
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38 Grape Anticipation
Harris Street
Where to stay The Monterey Plaza Hotel and Spa: sits on the bay and has two restaurants with ocean views; 290 rooms and suites, at $199 (400 Cannery Row, Monterey, CA 93940; 800-334-3999, www. montereyplazahotel.com) Hotel Pacific: is a Spanish style boutique hotel with 105 individual suites starting at $129, (300 Pacific Street,
Monterey, CA 93940; 800-5545542, www.hotelpacific.com) Monterey: Bay Inn is a contemporary luxury hotel with 49 guest rooms starting at $159, 242 Cannery Row, Monterey, CA 93940; 800-424-6242, www. montereybayinn.com) Spindrift Inn: is a luxury hotel located on McAbee Beach
ing, running and walking path that connects Cannery Row to Fisherman’s Wharf and passes through the historic district’s old homes and museums, including the Maritime Museum and Monterey Museum of Art. Fisherman’s Wharf is a lively collection of seafood restaurants, souvenir shops, tourists, tour-boat conductors (whale-watching tours of the bay are especially popular) and fishing boats for rent. The wharf is one of the best places to observe sea lions, harbor seals, otters and sea birds all cavorting together. Also watch for the com-
with 45 guest rooms starting at $149, (652 Cannery Row, Monterey, CA 93940; 800-8411879, www.spindriftinn.com Victorian: is a pet-friendly boutique hotel with 70 guest rooms and suites, beginning at $109 with a wine and cheese tasting in the evenings (487 Foam Street, Monterey, CA 93940; 800232-4141, www.victorianinn.com)
mercial fishing boats unloading their catch next to the pier. Full of the California coast’s vivid verve, the Monterey area is a preeminent feast for the senses. John Steinbeck may have helped make the region famous, but the sound and the fury of the bay, the beauty of the Pacific Coast mountain ranges and the savory flavors of its vast wine country aren’t just for men of letters. Everyone is welcome. John Blanchette is a freelance travel writer
Grape Anticipation 39
40 Grape Anticipation
W in ery Profile
C l o u d y B ay
V i n e ya r d s The famed New Zealand winery continues to impress with its bright, jazzy versions of Sauvignon Blanc
By Steve Stevens
All images courtesy Möet Hennessy USA
Grape Anticipation 41
T i m H e at h
broke his leg badly on a hard-to-reach ski slope in New Zealand. But that’s not the interesting part. The interesting part is that, for New Zealanders and their Australian neighbors, hurting yourself is no big deal. “We really don’t think too much about it over there,” Heath laughed. Heath is Australian by birth but currently part of the winemaking team for New Zealand’s famed Cloudy Bay Vineyards. He visited Atlanta in February touting Cloudy Bay’s new releases to a group at the Buckhead Club. While it is true that being a little reckless is part of New Zealand’s national character, the opposite seems true of that country’s best wines. They often taste as if they were made by someone who was slightly obsessive: supremely balanced and carefully structured, rather than feral and erratic. The new selections from Cloudy Bay are no exception, even though the indigenous yeast used in the 2007 Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc certainly nudges it in that wilder direction. As good as New Zealand’s reputation for wine has become, it wasn’t always so. In fact, there was a time when finding a decent bottle of native wine in New Zealand was about as likely as finding a vegetarian at The Varsity. Heath’s winery played a big part in changing that culture. Cloudy Bay planted the Marlborough region’s first vines in 1973, when it was considered an enormously risky move. An international market for New Zealand wine did not even exist yet, and
estate-made wine is a hugely expensive endeavor. But the Sauvignon Blanc was so well-received, it almost single-handedly created that market. Since then, New Zealand in general and especially Marlborough and Cloudy Bay have become somewhat synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc. But Sauvignon Blanc is not native to the land of the kiwis. Its classic expression is found in France’s Loire Valley, particularly in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Outside the Loire, it can make outstanding white Bordeaux and is widely planted in Languedoc-Roussillon. Vines line the fields in front Additionally, DNA profilof Cloudy Bay’s winery ing gave the grape a pedigree boost in 1997 when it was discovered that Sauvignon Blanc is actually a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon, the great red grape responsible for many of the world’s most intense, complex and well-regarded wines. With Sauvignon Blanc already well-established in some of the world’s greatest wine regions, how did Cloudy Bay and New Zealand become so inextricably linked with the grape? The reasons any wine or wine region achieve success are many and varied, but first the wine has to be good; and, to that end, it helps that Cloudy Bay’s winery and vineyards are in Marlborough’s Wairau Valley. In Wairau, at the northern tip of the South Island, vineyards are reputed to get more hours of sunlight than anywhere else in New Zealand. It’s that exposure to the sun mediated by the cool winds from the Southern Pacific that helps imbue the area’s Sauvignon Blanc with the vigorous tropical fruit flavor profile that has become its trademark.
As good as New Zealand’s reputation for wine has become, it wasn’t always so. 42 Grape Anticipation
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44 Grape Anticipation
But certainly part of the reason for Marlborough’s success is also that its expression of Sauvignon Blanc is so markedly different from the grape’s traditional French voicing. While the two styles share Sauvignon’s lively acidity, nuts and bright tropical fruits generally dominate the New Zealand versions, while the French versions tend to be more subtle and layered. In any case, quality and consistency seem to be driving factors in why New Zealand and Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc have risen to such heights. Still, even the best wine operations see their share of down vintages. So just as a winemaker might break his leg on the slopes, the best wineries might stumble occasionally, tripped up by bad weather or mistakes in the winery. But as with any job worth tackling, the question is not whether you’ll fall, but whether you’ll get back up after you do. So far, Cloudy Bay keeps getting back up. Steve Stevens is a writer and editor and has been covering wine since 2003.
2008 Cloudy Bay Vineyards, Chardonnay
2008 Cloudy Bay Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc
2007 Cloudy Bay Vineyards, Te Koko
Savory with a touch of spiciness, this goldcolored Chardonnay has a hefty mid-palate and a subtle heat rising slightly on the creamy finish. Peach, apple and honey dominate the palate. Acid is mild to fresh. Flavors are layered and even.
Balanced with a round mouthfeel, this wine delivers elegance and power in equal measure. Marlborough’s classic lime and nuttiness shine through on the palate and the nose. Acid is lively. A fine expression of the region’s best grape.
Feral yeasts define this wine, giving it a pleasant, aggressive mouthfeel. Floral aromas and spice lead to a palate rife with herbaceous notes and lemon rind. This wine is a great example of an alternative style of Sauvignon Blanc.
Marlborough, New Zealand
Marlborough, New Zealand
Marlborough, New Zealand
Grape Anticipation 45
Wine Ratings The following ratings include wines tasted and rated by our experienced panel of tasters. Unique from other publications, all of the wines rated are available for purchase within the state of Georgia.
47 49 51 52 53
Red Blends Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec Merlot Pinot Noir
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54 54 56 57 58
Rosé Syrah/Shiraz Zinfandel Other Reds White Blends
58 60 62 62
Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc Other Whites Sparkling Wines
Wine Ratings
Red Blends $12 and Under Bodegas Aragonesas, Coto De Hayas, Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 | Spain
90
Wonderful red-fruit notes on both the nose and the palate. A velvety mouthfeel with a great fruit. Herbal notes with long, lingering earthy flavors. Special on its own or a wonderful base for fruit-filled sangria.
Winery, Hangtown Red Blend 90 Boeger NV | California
Old World earthy nose with some smoky, oak notes. Lots of plum, cherry and blackberry on the mid-palate. Continues with toasted oak and black pepper. Finishes long with great tannins. Pair with hearty fare such as grilled red meats.
Truth Winery, Lindsey’s Cuvee, 89 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah | Santa Rosa, Calif. Red-brick color with medium depth and clarity. On the nose, blueberries and white pepper. On the palate, blueberry pie with notes of toast and gentle spices. A fine burger wine or great all by itself.
Notro, Sangiovese/Bonarda 89 Bodegas 2007 | Argentina
Full fruit on the nose, with lots of blackberry and blueberry flavors on the front of the palate. It also offers a complex mix of allspice, mint and white pepper on the palate. Acidic on the finish.
88
Mark Davidson Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot NV | South Australia Nice spicy notes of clove and white pepper on the nose. Flavors of cherry, chocolate and oak blend with notes of dried red fruit. A bold, smoky, tannic finish means pair this one with grilled red meat.
$12-$20 Vinedos y Bodegas Corpora, Nomad, Carmenere/Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 | Chile
91
This is a big red wine. Notes of tobacco and earth make for a remarkable aroma. On the palate, a rustic, raw beef balances the nice red-fruit. A spicy, round finish makes marries well with hearty grilled red meat.
L’Archet, Cuvee Occitane, Rouge, 90 2005 Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre/Carignan | Languedoc, France Great big red-fruit notes on the nose as well as the palate. Notes of blueberries and cherries. Very well-balanced, with complex fruit and a great dry finish. A good value.
Clarksburg Wine Company, 90 NV Nomad Red Blend | Clarksburg, Calif. A very rich, dark-purple color. Notes of cinnamon, spice, nutmeg and smoke make for great complex aromas. Earthy flavors of smoke, bacon and overripe fruit. Long, tannic finish; pair with the hearty dishes.
Domaine du Pegau, Plan Pegau, Lot 90 2006 2006, Grenache/Syrah/Carignan | Rhone Valley, France Deep, dark-purple color with great berry-fruit aromas. Well-balanced mix of fruit and acidity. Earthy and complex with notes of plum and black pepper. Earthy aromas make it an excellent wine to pair with game. Finishes dry.
Sullivan Vineyards, Red Ink, 88 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah | Napa Valley Lots of dried-fruit aromas as well as some dark cherry on the nose and the palate. Good balance with a long tannic finish.
Creek Cellars, Secret Red 86 Cleavage 2003 | Tracy Hills, Calif.
Light red blend with notes of cherry and berry on the nose. Good balance of fruit and acidity on the midpalate. It ends with a crisp dry finish.
$20-$35 Cass Vineyard & Winery, Grenache/Mourvèdre 2006 | Paso Robles, Calif.
93
Earthy, Old World nose carries over to big, red-fruit flavors and notes of chocolate, toasted oak, coffee and dark plum. Elegant, with a long, dry, tannic finish; a perfect pair for grilled steak or lamb. An exceptional red blend.
Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Worthy 2007 | Santa Rosa, Calf.
Complex red hues sparkle in the glass. On the nose, its intense, elegant fruit is balanced with leather and smoke. This well-made blend is not only full of fruit, but has a rich, dry tannic finish. Great with grilled red meat.
Vineyard, Claret 90 Newton 2006 | Napa Valley
Bold Bordeaux-style blend starts with a floral nose and a lush blend of fruit on the palate. It’s a complex red with notes of plum, chocolate and cherry. It’s a big wine so pair with grilled red meats.
Creek Cellars, Merlot/Shiraz 88 Cleavage 2004 | Tracy Hills, Calif.
Very nice bright-red color. Pleasant nose with notes of blackberry and cherry. A well-made blend that allows both varietals to shine.
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Wine Ratings Mountain Vineyards, 87 Wolf Instinct, Red Blend 2006 | Georgia
Housley’s Century Oak Winery, 90 2004 Adam, Cabernet Sauvignon | Lodi, Calif.
Aromas of plum and black cherries. Dry, rich and complex favors of dried red fruit, vanilla and cocoa on the palate. Light, spicy black pepper finish with gentle tannins. Pair with a beef or lamb.
Mountain Vineyards, 87 Wolf Howling Wolf, Red Blend NV | Georgia A rich red blend, fruit forward with spicy pepper, tobacco and cedar notes. Strong red fruit flavors carry throughout the tasting experience. Finishes with well balanced blend of fruit and tannins.
86
Cleavage Creek Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah 2005 | Tracy Hills, Calif. A light red blend with hints of oak on the nose and palate. A hearty food-friendly wine. Dry and acidic finish with light tannins.
$35-$50 Cass Vineyard & Winery, Syrah/ Mourvedre/Grenache/Petite Sirah 2006 | Paso Robles, Calif.
94
Worthy of a special-occasion meal and celebration. Great black currant and rich fruit aromas. Wonderful blend of red grape varietals—complex, rich and bold. Superb flavors such as chocolate, toasted oak, black pepper and spices. Perfect with beef and lamb. Finish with a rich cigar.
Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon/ 92 Treana Cabernet Franc/Petite Sirah 2005 | Paso Robles, Calif. Extremely dark, rich purple color. Notes of clove, leather and cherry pie on the nose. Complex flavors of blackberry, chocolate and other dark fruits. A supple, wellbalanced red wine with a long tannic finish. Hearty fare suits this excellent red blend.
Cabernet Sauvignon $12 & Under Mirassou Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 | Modesto, Calif.
85
Nice California red table wine at a great price. Overall, pleasant on the nose and palate, with blackberry and black currant flavors.
$12-$20 Housley’s Century Oak Winery, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 | Lodi, Calif.
90
Dark purple color with fruit-forward style; it’s a great deal at this price level. Notes of chocolate, coffee and cherries. Good, long finish with lingering tannins.
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This is a sophisticated 50/50 estate/reserve cab blend with lots going on. Big red fruit with spice and white pepper on the finish. Art Housley, the winery owner, named this wine after his son Adam, the Fox News West Coast correspondent.
Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon 89 Avalon 2006 | Sonoma County
Aromas of smoke, black pepper and black currants on the nose. Notes of cedar, raspberry and black cherry on the palate. Pleasant notes of chocolate and cocoa on the finish with gentle tannins. A great value.
Gallo Family Vineyards, Sonoma 88 2006 Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon | Sonoma Valley Nice and spicy on the nose as well as on the palate. Lots of red-fruit notes, including red currant, raspberry and black cherry. Very drinkable; a good value.
Century Oak Winery, 87 Housley’s Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 | Lodi, Calif. Red cherry color with a fragrant, floral nose. Velvet mouth feel, with black cherry and plum notes. A nice finish with pleasant tannins and a gentle close.
Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon 87 Jekel 2006 | Monterey County, Calif.
Aromas of green pepper, plum and cloves. On the palate, fruit-forward with notes of dried fruit, black cherry and oak. Finish is long and tannic. Serve with hearty fare such as grilled lamb or beef.
Habersham Winery, Creekstone, 86 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon | Georgia Aromas of white and black pepper spice. Fruit forward on the palate with notes of blueberry, blackberry and cassis. Medium, dry tannins on the finish with a hint of smoke. Pair with grilled, hearty fare.
$20-$35 Niner Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 | Paso Robles, Calif.
91
Rich dark red/purple color, with great depth. Aromas of black cherry and smoke with nice herbal notes. A lighter, gentle-style Cabernet with a nice balance of fruit and tannins. Pair with hearty fare.
Frei Brothers Winery, 90 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon | Alexander Valley, Calif. A great rich, deep, red color and wonderful spicy, peppery aromas. Very well-balanced and complex fruit notes that include berries and plums. Finishes with hints of vanilla and dark chocolate.
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Wine Ratings Hill Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon 89 Novelty 2006 | Columbia Valley, Wash. Floral, blackberry and ripe olives on the nose. Notes of black currants, tobacco and dark fruit on the midpalate. Dry, crisp finish with a very smooth, gentle and complex tannic finish. Pair with hearty fare.
$50 and Up Louis M. Martini Winery, Monte Rosso Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 | Sonoma Valley
96
Awesome combination of fruit, acidity and complex, structured tannins. Long, seemingly never-ending finish with notes of coffee, chocolate, vanilla and white pepper. Impressive throughout the tasting experience. Pair with any hearty grilled meat.
Casa Lapostolle, Cuvee, 89 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon | Chile Lots of fruit on the nose, with a hint of mint. Dry with notes of green pepper, olives and blackberries. Very wellbalanced and complex on the mid-palate; ends with a white pepper, spicy finish. Pare with hearty fare and enjoy.
Malbec $12 and Under Altos Las Hormigas, Malbec 2007 | Argentina
90
$35-$50 Sullivan Vineyards, Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 | Napa Valley
91
Herbal aromas blended with rich, ripe cherries on both the nose and the palate. Also rich notes of chocolate and tobacco. The sort of big, chewy Cabernet that Napa Valley does so well.
On the palate, nice balance of fruit and acidity with dark-fruit flavors. A pleasant smoky, tannic finish completes the tasting experience on this great-value Malbec. Pair with hearty fare such as grilled lamb or beef.
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50 Grape Anticipation
Wine Ratings $12-$20 San Polo Bodegas and Viñedos, Auka, Malbec 2006 | Mendoza, Argentina
90
Aromas of blueberry, pepper and some alcohol on the nose. On the palate, black and white pepper notes carry over with dark red dried fruits. Smoky, complex edge. Serve with pizza or grilled red meat.
$20-$35 Bodegas Escorihuela Gascon, Malbec 2008 | Argentina
90
A young wine that will improve. Rich, with lots of dark fruit flavors and a smoky, toasted-oak finish and nicely balanced tannins. Excellent expression of Argentina’s best grape.
Escorihuela Gascon, Malbec 85 Bodegas 2007 | Argentina
Lots of value here, a good earthy nose with dark cherry and dark berry notes, with a hint of cocoa on the midpalate. Finishes with soft tannins.
Merlot $12-$20 Candor Winery, Merlot NV | Paso Robles, Calif.
90
Vanilla and dried herbs on the nose, along with smoke and tobacco. Rich and lush fruit on the palate with integrated tannins. Big, dry and smoky on the finish, so pair with hearty fare of your choice.
Sisters Vineyard, Merlot 90 Three 2004 | Georgia
Big Merlot, decant before serving. Fruit forward with notes of blueberry and smoke on the nose. On the palate, rich fruit flavors of dried fruit and plum. A balanced finish makes it a perfect complement to lamb or steak.
Ema, Reserve, Merlot 89 Santa 2005 | Chile
Great red color with a nice earthy nose. A complex, full-bodied style with some herbal aromas and flavors. Complex tannins on the dry finish.
Grape Anticipation 51
Wine Ratings Mountain Vineyards, Merlot 85 Sharp 2007 | Jasper, Ga.
Pinot Noir
A young red wine with smoky aromas and oak on the nose and the palate. Fruit will come forward as the vines get a little older. A peppery, spicy finish.
$12 and Under Montpellier Vineyards, Pinot Noir 2007 | California
87
$20-$35 Casa Lapostolle, Cuvee, Merlot 2006 | Chile
90
Big fruit throughout on the palate with dark plum, black currant and cocoa notes accompanied by nice hints of toasted oak. A long, dry, tannic finish completes the tasting experience.
$12-$20 Mark West Winery, Pinot Noir 2007 | Sonoma County
89
$35-$50 Sullivan Vineyards, Estate, Merlot 2005 | Napa Valley
90
An alternative for white-wine drinkers starting to move to red varietals. Cherry notes with some white pepper. Finishes with good acidity. A very good value Pinot Noir.
A big, fat Napa Merlot with lots of smoky fruit and flavor. Rich with dark-fruit and black-cherry flavors. A long finish with complex, well-blended tannins. Very good from start to finish.
Floral aromas with notes of blackberries and cherries. An earthy, medium-bodied wine. Nicely balanced fruit and acidity. A good-value Pinot and a good starting point for new red-wine drinkers.
Vineyards, Pinot Noir 88 Jekel 2006 | Monterey County, Calif.
Cherry aromas accompanied by notes of vanilla and allspice. On the palate, notes of black cherries, rosemary, vanilla and white pepper. Nice balance of fruit and acidity. Pair with duck or pork.
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52    Grape Anticipation
Wine Ratings Estates, Pinot Noir 85 Montinore 2007 | Willamette Valley, Ore.
Spice and white pepper on the palate, with light acidity. Additional notes of cinnamon and cherry; a light body and gentle finish. Pair this with duck or veal.
$20-$32 Frei Brothers Winery, Pinot Noir 2006 | Russian River Valley, Calif.
90 90
Berry and cherry notes abound on both the nose and the palate. A great balance of fruit flavors and acidity. Nice, firm body and an outstanding, crisp finish.
MacMurray Ranch, Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2006 | Russian River Valley, Calif. A big, California-style Pinot Noir with complex blackcherry fruit both on the nose and on the palate. Great acidity and a structured, spicy fruit finish.
Ranch, Sonoma 87 MacMurray Coast Pinot Noir 2006 | Sonoma Coast, Calif. Red cherry notes on the nose and the palate. A bright and refreshing Burgundian style with a great deal of fruit and a light oak vanilla note on the slightly acidic finish.
$35 to $50 MacMurray Ranch, Russian River Valley, Winemaker’s Block, Pinot Noir 2006 | Russian River Valley, Calif.
94
This is a limited-production, refined, special Pinot Noir with great fruit on the nose and palate. Has everything one would want from this grape: great fruit, spice and acidity. Offers finesse and elegance throughout the tasting experience.
Cellars, Pinot Noir 89 Cloudline 2007 | McMinnville, Ore.
Notes of stewed plums, black tea and cherries on the nose. Very smooth and elegant mouthfeel with a balance of fruit and acidity. Would be great with salmon or grilled pork.
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Wine Ratings
Rosé $12 and Under Bello Vino Winery, Sweet Rosé NV | Brazil
89
Notes of apple, pear and sweet cherries. Has a candylike flavor, like Juicy Fruit gum. Sweet tart flavors with a light finish. Will appeal to younger wine drinkers. A fine, by-the-pool sipper.
Griffin Winery, 87 Bernard Rose of Sangiovese 2008 | Washington Aromas of strawberry and plum. Refreshing with notes of strawberry, peach and lemon on the palate. Dry and crisp on the finish. A great warm-weather option for the patio.
Oak Founders, rosé 86 Century 2006 | Lodi, Calif.
Light and refreshing on the nose and the palate. Good cherry fruit and a dry, crisp finish with nice acidity. A fine option at a very reasonable price.
Mountain Vineyards, Pickens Pink 84 Sharp 2007 | Jasper, Ga. A very sweet dessert wine with a nice pink color. Good fruit notes on the palate, including melon, peaches and apples.
$12-$20 Sullivan Vineyards, Pink Ink 2006 | Napa Valley
87
A Cabernet/Merlot dry rosé with a very pleasant pink color. Dry and crisp on the palate, with notes of pears and apples.
Syrah/Shiraz $12 and Under Mark Davidson Winery, Shiraz NV | South Australia
89
Notes of ripe red and black cherries on the nose. On the palate, a rich blend of raspberries, chocolate, pepper and smoke. A balanced, tannic finish. A real value in an Australian Shiraz.
$12-$20 Vinedos y Bodega Corpora, Azul, Syrah 2005 | Chile
89
Herbaceous notes blend with black cherries on the nose. Carries over into eucalyptus, tobacco and cedar on the palate. This inky red wine finishes with complex, long tannins.
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School Winery, Syrah 89 Liberty 2003 | Paso Robles, Calif.
Aromas of raisins, prunes and nutmeg on the nose. Earthy with lots of dark fruit on the palate. Some cocoa and chocolate with gentle tannins on the finish. Pair with red meats such as beef or lamb.
Oatley Vineyards, Shiraz 88 Robert 2007 | Australia
On the nose, hints of red fruits, raspberries and blueberries. Abundant fruit and additional tastes of raspberry and Jolly Rancher fruit on the finish. Finishes crisp and dry.
Estate, Shiraz 87 McWilliams 2006 | Australia
Soft and light on the nose and the palate. A great deal of cherry fruit and herbaceous with notes of toasted vanilla oak. Finishes with nice, light tannins.
Gayda, Three Winds Syrah 87 Domaine 2004 | Languedoc, France
This hearty red wine is a very good value. Lots of dark fruit flavors. Good balance and the fine, dry, tannic finish that you’d expect from this varietal.
$20-$35 Frei Brothers, Syrah 2006 | Russian River Valley, Calif.
88
Big and rich black-cherry notes on the nose and the palate. A hint of white and black pepper on the mid-palate. Finishes with very dry, intense flavors and soft tannins.
$70 and Up Clarendon Hills, Liandra Vineyard, Syrah 2005 | Clarendon, South Australia
93
Great red color with a complex mixture of dark berries and cherries on the nose and palate. A very big, dry red wine with great structure and a long, lingering, dry finish.
Zinfandel $12-$20 Candor Winery, Zinfandel NV | Paso Robles, Calif.
90
Smoky and oaky with spicy pepper notes on the nose. Flavorful combination of raspberry and chocolate on the front of the palate. Lots of spice throughout. Great with grilled pork, barbecue or ribs.
Oak Winery, Zinfandel 89 Century 2004 | Lodi, Calif.
A fruit-forward red wine with lots of dark fruit and some light oak notes on the palate. This spicy-style Zinfandel pairs great with food. Finishes with white and black pepper notes.
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Wine Ratings Zabaco Winery, 87 Rancho Sonoma Heritage Vines 2006 | Sonoma County Aromas of berries and red fruit abound. Oak aging adds suggestion of vanilla on the mid-palate. Finishes with lots of fruit and black pepper.
$20-$35 Mariah Vineyards, Zinfandel 2004 | Mendocino, Calif.
89
Aromas of plum, mint, blackberry, cherry and pleasant alcohol. On the palate, candied apple, black cherry and spicy white and black pepper. Finishes with light tannins and plenty of spice.
Zabaco Winery, Zinfandel 89 Rancho 2004 | Dry Creek Valley, Calif.
Full fruit-forward nose with robust black fruit, blackberry and black pepper on the palate. Jammy with big fruit and spice on the finish.
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$35 & Up Rancho Zabaco Winery, Toreador, Zinfandel 2005 | Sonoma County
93
Terrific old-vine, limited-production Zinfandel with big cherry notes on both the nose and the palate. Black cherry, ripe plum jam and full fruit throughout the entire tasting experience.
Zabaco Winery, Monte 92 Rancho Rosso Vineyard, Zinfandel 2005 | Sonoma County Big and bold dark-cherry aromas with a very fruity, jammy mouth feel. Extremely well-balanced and complex, with big mid-palate fruit. A long, complex finish with spicy notes.
Other Reds
AccOuNT EXEc: $12 and Under R&B CEllaRs Lang & Reed Winery, Cabernet Franc PaUl ISSuE: AD SIZE: clASSIFIcATION SPEcIAl POSITION: 2006 | Napa/ Valley
92
PROOF
2/25
Aromas of leather, black cherries, plum and tobacco give notes of black cherries, plum and spice. Great balance of fruit,MArK oak and Serve with hearty fare AnD or FoLLow DirEC pLEAsE carefully ChECK ALL DEtAiLs: CopY, nAME, ADDrEss AnD phonE nUMBEr(s). AnYtannins. CorrECtions on this prooF great with a cigar after a fine meal.
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56 Grape Anticipation
maY/JUN 09
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Napa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 97 points - West Coast Wine Competition 97 points - ALA Wines
Swingsville Zin 90 points - California State Fair Gold Medal - Orange County Fair
Serenade in Blanc 94 points - California State Fair Gold Medal - California State Fair
Saxy Syrah Best U.S. Syrah - World Value Wine Challenge Best Syrah, $15 and under - Beverage Testing Institute
1835 San Jose Ave. | Alameda, CA 94501 | 510-749-8477 | www.rbcellars.com
thiS ad will appear in alameda magaZine in the iSSue(S) liSted below unleSS otherwiSe Specified
Vino Winery, Sweet Red 90 Bello NV | Brazil
Aromas of leather, black cherries, plum and tobacco give the wine a great start. On the palate, fruit-forward with notes of black cherries, plum and spice. Great balance of fruit, oak and tannins. Serve with hearty fare or great with a cigar after a fine meal.
San Roque, Tempranillo 88 Bodegas 2005 | Rioja Alavesa, Spain
On the palate, notes of cocoa, blackberry jam and coffee. A great red to pair with tapas dishes, as it is versatile and very food friendly. A light fruit finish with gentle tannins.
Vino Winery, Dry Red 87 Bello NV | Brazil
Big, dry Concord grape flavor. Fruit forward with notes of plum and dried fruit. For those that don’t have a sweet tooth and prefer a dry fruit filled option. Serve with duck or pork.
Martin Codax, Tempranillo 87 Bodegas 2006 | Rioja, Spain
Ranch, Petite Sirah 86 Le2006Baron | Russian River Valley, Calif.
Light on the nose and the palate, with black cherry and cassis notes. Some vanilla and toasted oak. A starter Petite Sirah for those who are new to this varietal. Pair with pork, ham or hearty poultry dishes such as duck.
$20-$35 Cleavage Creek Cellars, Reserve, Petit Sirah 2005 | Napa Valley
86
A light version of this increasingly popular varietal. Good cherry and plum fruit. Finishes with a light fruit flavor and a hint of vanilla and oak.
$75 and Up Clarendon Hills Romas, Romas Vineyard, Old Vine Grenache 2005 | Clarendon, South Australia
94
Nice floral notes with a touch of oak on the nose. Wellbalanced and full of strawberry fruit flavors. Medium bodied, finishes with vanilla and gentle red fruit.
A big floral nose with even bigger fruit-forward flavors on the palate. Wonderfully complex red wine with great structure and balance. Intense flavors of berries and cherries; finishes with long, lingering, spicy white pepper notes.
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Wine Ratings
White Blends $12 and Under Tamburlaine Winery, Mark Davidson, Chardonnay/Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc NV | South Australia
88
Aromas of slate and melon. On the palate, green apple, pear and light oak. Integrated acidity and fruit with a crisp, dry finish. A great value. Pair with tuna or a fruitfilled Waldorf salad.
$12-$20 Three Sisters Vineyards, Fat Boy White NV | Georgia
91
Lovely white blend with pineapple, stone fruit and some vanilla. Crisp and dry with a big citrus finish. All members of the panel really liked this wine and think it is a perfect complement to Fat Boy Red.
Domaine Gayda L’Archet, Cuvee 90 Roussanne/Grenache Occitane, Blanc, Marsanne/ Blanc 2005 | Languedoc, France
Earthy nose with hints of oak and apricot on the nose and palate. Creamy vanilla and peach/pear/apple notes combined with crisp citrus on the finish. A special white food wine.
Cape Mentelle Vineyards, 88 2008 Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc | Margaret River, Western Australia Gentle mineral and floral nose with hints of citrus and grapefruit. Lemon and lime on the palate. Good balance between fruit and acidity. Dry tart, crisp finish will pair great with any shellfish.
Winery, White Blend 88 Truth 2007 | Napa County, Calif.
Aromas of fresh-cut grass, minerals and citrus. Flavors include lychee fruit, minerals and a light touch of oak with hints of vanilla. Finishes with notes of honey and lingering citrus. Can stand up to cream and cheese dishes.
Winery, Signet White Wine 85 Habersham NV | Georgia
Very much in the German white wine style with lots of minerality and stone fruit on the palate. Crisp, dry finish. Good match for shellfish or cheese course.
$20-$35 Treana Winery, Viognier/Marsanne 2007 | Paso Robles, Calif.
88
Bright golden color with medium depth. Floral nose with hints of vanilla and light oak. Dry on the palate, with a medium body and crisp fruit. Notes of melon, orange peel and apricot. Rhone-style white blend with lots of body and fruit. Pair with shellfish or perhaps a spicy dish.
58 Grape Anticipation
Chardonnay $12 -$20 La Baron Ranch, Chardonnay 2006 | Alexander Valley, Calif.
90
Very floral bouquet with notes of green apple, light petrol and light oak on the nose. Great fruit flavor on the palate with apple, peach and hints of vanilla. Balanced between oak and fruit.
Brothers Winery, Chardonnay 89 Frei 2006 | Russian River Valley, Calif.
Nice hints of oak on the nose with a light touch of citrus fruit. Bold fruit flavors combined with gentle oak make for a nice food wine. Wine ends with a soft, mellow, fruit finish.
Martin & Weyrich Winery, 89 2006 Unwooded Chardonnay | California Lots of pear and melon on both the nose and the palate. A great transition wine for a White Zinfandel fan. A pure expression of the grape, with great balance of acid and fruit. A pleasant summer sipper.
Oatley Vineyards, Chardonnay 88 Robert 2007 | Australia
Aromas of red apple, melon and minerals. On the palate, a creamy mouthfeel with notes of caramel and vanilla. Light touch of oak makes for a nice blend of fruit and acidity. Balanced, food friendly white wine.
Polo Winery, Auka Chardonnay 88 San 2007 | Mendoza, Argentina
Aromas of tropical fruit, banana and vanilla. Flavors match the nose and are balanced by a nice touch of oak. Round, fleshy mouth feel makes for a great pairing with light summer dishes.
Pask Winery, Gimblett 87 C.J. Road, Chardonnay 2006 | Hawkes Bay, New Zealand Aromas of pineapple and oak. Tart on the palate, notes of green apple and grapefruit. Pair with cheese or a cream-sauce dish, as the bright acidity will cut through. Would also go with a shellfish meal.
School Winery, Chardonnay 87 Liberty 2006 | Paso Robles, Calf.
Notes of melon and some minerality on the nose. Pineapple and lemongrass, tart and crisp on the finish with a good balance of fruit and oak. Can stand up to cheese and cream.
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SPELMAN COLLEGE MUSEUM OF FINE ART in the Camille Olivia Hanks Cosby, Ed.D. Academic Center 350 Spelman Lane, Box 1526 | Atlanta, GA 30314 | 404.270.5607 museum@spelman.edu | www.spelman.edu/museum/ Hours: Tuesdays - Fridays, 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Saturdays, noon - 4 p.m. Closed Sunday, Monday, holidays, and Spelman College breaks including Summer
Friends Of The Vine Wine Club Friends of the Vine Wine Club (FOV) is a not-for-profit corporation. With the spirit of giving as its foundation, FOV was established to provide a greater awareness through education and camaraderie to those who share a passion for fine vinifera. As a not-for-profit corporation, positions within FOV are strictly voluntary and all funds in excess of operating expenses are donated to local Atlanta charities.
WE BRING THE WINE COUNTRY TO YOU. Introduce friends to a memorable event by hosting a private wine tasting in the comfort of your home or office. Relax together while enjoying limited production wines and food pairing ideas direct from the Wine Country. Call to schedule a WineShop At Home tasting featuring six different exquisite wines for just $59.00 (a value of $120.00). As the host you will receive a special discount and rewards! Our company is growing rapidly! Contact me today to talk about this exciting new home-based business opportunity from the California Wine Country.
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Century Oak 87 Housley’s Winery, Chardonnay 2006 | Lodi, Calif. Floral nose with notes of vanilla aromas. Light oak on the palate and very pleasant fruit notes. Ends with a crisp, dry finish. Good food Chardonnay.
87
Ventana Vineyards, Chardonnay 2005 | Monterey, Calif.
86
Sharp Mountain Vineyards, Chardonnay 2007 | Jasper, Georgia
Sauvignon Blanc $12 and Under C.J. Pask Winery, Roy’s Hill, Sauvignon Blanc 2006 | Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
86
Floral aromas blend with pleasant citrus lemon/lime notes. Grapefruit and orange peel notes on the palate. Nice dry, acidic finish makes for a perfect complement to any type of shellfish.
On the palate, great blend of fruit and oak. Notes of honey and vanilla with a lovely, buttery mouth feel. Finishes with the same touch of oak. Excellent with poultry, tuna or salmon.
Light petrol nose with pleasant oak aromas, reflected on the palate. A solid wine with good acidity and a citrus finish.
Creek Cellars, 85 Cleavage Reserve, Chardonnay 2006 | Tracy Hills, Calif. Nice light notes of oak on the nose and the palate. A mild style with light citrus and green apple fruit. Good acidity provides a tart finish
$12-$20 Sharp Mountain Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc 2007 | Jasper, Georgia
87
Mild citrus and light grapefruit notes on both the nose and the front of the palate. Tropical and stone fruit on the mid-palate, and a tart lemon/lime finish.
Robert Oatley Vineyards, 86 2008 Sauvignon Blanc | Australia Green, yellow color with aromas of fresh cut grass, honeydew and grapefruit. Citrus notes on the palate along with light grapefruit and minerality. Mild lemon-lime finish. Serve with very light fare.
Vineyards, Chardonnay 85 Montpellier 2007 | California
Light style with subtle oak on the front of the palate. Some pear and apricot. A summer patio sipper or serve with very light fare.
$20-$32 Newton Vineyards, Red Label, Chardonnay 2007 | Napa Valley
90 89
$20-$32 Cloudy Bay Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc 2008 | Marlborough, New Zealand
89
Pleasant grapefruit and gooseberry notes on the front of the palate that give way to honeydew, white peach and vanilla on the finish. Excellent balance of fruit and acidity. Pair with shellfish or even a seafood omelet.
Great mouthfeel with pear, toast and hazelnuts on the palate. A well-balanced Chardonnay typical of what one would expect from the Napa region. Pair with any light fare that would be complemented by this type of wine.
Other Whites
Casa Lapostolle, Cuvee, Chardonnay 2006 | Chile
88
Well-oaked; in a blind tasting one would think this is a California Chardonnay. The fruit-to-acid balance is very well done, with nice bright citrus notes on the midpalate. Finishes clean, tart and crisp.
Vineyards, Estate, Chardonnay 87 Sullivan 2005 | Napa Valley
Well-balanced on both the nose and the palate, with great apple and pear notes. Lightly oaked and very food friendly. Finishes crisp and dry.
60 Grape Anticipation
$12 and Under Bello Vino Winery, Sweet White NV | Brazil Some light fruit and petroleum aromas give way to bright, juicy fruit flavors on the palate. Strong notes of Welch’s white grape juice and sweet tart candy with tropical flavors of banana, mango and pineapple.
$12-$20 Martin & Weyrich Winery, Moscato 2006 | California
90
A great after-dinner option with notes of apricot, peach and honeydew melon. Light sweet notes of honey would complement any cheese or crème brûlée. A great vale.
Award Winning Wines Made in the Family Tradition at the Historical Rotta Winery in Templeton, California
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Wolfgang Vineyards, Vienna 90 2006 Grüner Veltliner | Austria
Winery, Brut Rosé, 87 Korbel Pinot Noir/Chenin Blanc NV | California
Aromas of vanilla, slate and butterscotch on this goldcolored wine. On the palate, notes of light citrus, yellow apple and honey. A lovely, complex white wine. Great with shellfish or seafood in a butter sauce.
Polo Winery, Auka Torrontes 89 San 2008 | Mendoza, Argentina
Big-time floral notes with a hint of lavender and gardenia on the nose. Juicy fruit-forward flavors that include green apple, white peach and lemon. Crisp, well-balanced finish with a lingering minerality. Great hot-weather summer sipper.
Adolf Schmitt, Riesling, Spätlese 89 Gustov 2007 | Rheinhessen, Germany
Notes of apricot, pear and green apple. Mid-palate and finish are lightly sweet with hints of citrus and melon. A great summer sipper or serve with spicy food; this Riesling will cool down the heat of the food.
88 88 87
Bodegas Martin Codax, Albariño 2006 | Spain A subdued floral bouquet with soft lemon/lime notes. Well-balanced and refreshing; it should be paired with light seafood fare. Also, would be a great summer sipper all by itself.
Robert Oatley Vineyards, Pinot Grigio 2008 | Australia Floral notes on the nose along with peach and pear. Brassy minerality on the palate along with a nuttiness and grapefruit. Very pleasant blend of fruit and acidity. Good in warm weather.
Wolfgang Vineyards, Wolfgang Grüner Veltliner 2006 | Austria Aromas of minerals, pear and petroleum. On the palate, notes of nectarine, lemon and grapefruit. Crisp and dry with lots of bright citrus on the finish. A great shellfish option.
Vineyards, Concerto, 87 Wolfgang Grüner Veltliner 2007 | Burgenland, Austria On the palate, notes of green apple, ripe peach and gentle citrus. Finishes dry with a buttery mouth feel and a pleasant honey note. Pair with white fish, scallops or other light fare.
Sparkling Wines $12 and Under Ballatore Cellars, Red Spumante NV | California
87
Very nice ruby color with fruity nose, a great option for the upcoming holidays. Has balanced flavors of raspberries and cherries. Ends with very clean finish.
62 Grape Anticipation
Mild peach and strawberry aromas with some light minerality. Stone fruit, peach and pear flavors with a crisp, dry, strawberry finish. A great value option for Easter or Mother’s Day.
Cellars, Bubbly, Chardonnay 86 Barefoot 2006 | California
Made with 100 percent Chardonnay grapes. A nice golden color. Crisp on the palate, with lots of good acidity. Somewhat buttery with notes of vanilla on the finish.
Cellars, Gran Spumante 86 Ballatore NV | California
Semi-sweet with notes of apple and pear. Well-balanced and rich in varietal character, this sparkling wine refreshes with melon flavors and a crisp, clean finish
Cellars, Bubbly, Pinot Grigio 85 Barefoot 2007 | California
Sweet-tart aromas, with light fruit and carbonation on the palate. A refreshing summer sipper. A crisp and dry finish with notes of green apple.
$50 and Up Veuve Clicquot, Rosé NV | France
92
Notes of peach and citrus on the nose. Crisp and clean on the palate with hints of strawberry, melon and sweet apple. Nicely carbonated, finishes crisp and clean. Also a great Mother’s Day or Easter celebration wine.
Grape Anticipation’s Ratings Explainer
A
ll wines are tasted blind in our Roswell office by a panel of qualified, experienced tasters. Tasters must meet a set of criteria set out by the magazine. The wines are rated on a weighted, 100-point scale and judged in two main categories, aroma and taste. Other traits contributing to the quality of a given wine, such as color, intensity, sugar content, alcohol content, acid level, tannins, texture, balance and length of finish, are noted by the taster in a general description of the wine. Each taster’s reviews are collected at the end of each tasting session. To arrive at the published review, the scores of each wine are tabulated together and the descriptions are edited into a single review by the tasting coordinator and then by the editing staff. Tasters are not influenced by advertisers, magazine management, wine company representatives or any other person, company or entity with an interest in a wine’s final score and accompanying review.
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You can charter a tour from 1 to 100 people or join with others for a memorable wine excursion. You can charter a tour for your group or join with others for a memorable wine excursion to the beautiful North Georgia Mountains! Your Grape Anticipation day trip will include visits to multiple vineyards, winery tours, wine tasting, brunch, discounts on wine purchases and some of the best mountain views in North Georgia For a full schedule of upcoming tours, prices and to make reservations please visit our Web site www.insidegrape.com
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Parting Shot
Italy Underground
Image courtesy of Möet Hennessy USA
In the cellars of Chianti Classico, bottles of Sangiovese await their time in the sun
H
undreds of bottles of 1988 Chianti Classico gather dust in the hewn, stone-walled cellar of their Italian producer, Castello di Monsanto. The wines were made from Sangiovese grapes grown in Monsanto’s Il Poggio vineyard in the Barberino Val d’Elsa section of Chianti Classico. Most of the vines are about 25-years-old on the average while the oldest vine is around 40 years-old. Il Poggio is Monsanto’s flagship wine and is only bottled during the best vintages.
64 Grape Anticipation
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