Sonoma-Marin Farm News - Tim Tesconi Book by Steve Knudsen

Sonoma~Marin

FARM

NEWS

The Voice of Sonoma County Agriculture since 1917

A Special Collection of Articles Written By Tim Tesconi Published between February 2007 - July 2015 219

Sonoma ~Marin

FARM

NEWS

The Voice of Sonoma County Agriculture since 1917

A Special Collection of Articles Written By Tim Tesconi Originally Published Between February 2007 - July 2015

Produced by Steven Knudsen Published on July 1, 2016 A Publication of Sonoma County Farm Bureau

Table of Contents Preface............................................................................................................................. 6

Biggest Crowd Ever at Farm Bureau’s Great Sonoma Crab & Wine Fest.......................58

Foreward......................................................................................................................... 7

Arnie Riebli is Sonoma County Fair’s Outstanding North Bay Rancher.........................60

All in the Family at Neve Bros. Roses in Petaluma...........................................................8

Dairy Industry Leader Kip Herzog Will Be Inducted into Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame ...............................................................62

Kelley Parsons Keeps Tomatoes Rolling Winter and Spring...........................................10

Johanna Vanoni Recognized for Excellence in the Horse Industry by Sonoma County Fair......................................................................... 64

Ag Days 2007 - Biggest Ever!......................................................................................... 12 Larry Bertolini, Sonoma County Agriculture’s Elder Statesman....................................14

Sangiacomo Family of Sonoma Honored with the Winegrape Commission’s “Viticulture Award of Excellence”................................................................................. 66

Sonoma County Farm Bureau Enters Rose Parade - Float Takes 1st Place....................16 Martin Pozzi - Sonoma County Fair’s Rancher of the Year............................................18

Beretta Dairy Family Named “Farm Family of the Year” by Sonoma County Farm Bureau................................................................................... 68

Sebastopol Apple Growers, Lee and Shirley Walker Keep Gravensteins Rolling to Market..................................................................................... 20

4-H’ers from Sonoma and Santa Rosa Top the Sonoma County Fair’s Lamb and Goat Shows................................................................................................... 70

Crane Melons Are Farming Legacy for the Crane Family of Santa Rosa........................22

Vella Cheese – A Cut Above .......................................................................................... 72

Rancher Joe Pozzi is Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Agriculturalist of the Year...........24

Farming on the Edge of Marin and Sonoma Counties ..................................................74

Sonoma County Farm Bureau Celebrates 90th Anniversary as the “Voice of Agriculture”................................................................................................... 26

Thanksgiving Bounty Awaits Along the Farm Trails of Sonoma County.........................76

Local Farms Provide Fresh Christmas Trees for The Holidays........................................28

Wine Industry Icon Louis Foppiano Celebrates 99th Birthday with Vintage Memories........................................................78

Mickelson Family Named California’s Top Purebred Cattle Producer............................30

Sheep Dairy Thrives in Cow Country............................................................................. 80

What’s for Dinner? ....................................................................................................... 32

Angelo Ibleto, “The Sausage King,” Reigns in Petaluma................................................82

Bud’s Custom Meats...................................................................................................... 34

Record Crowd Feasts at Farm Bureau’s Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest.................84

Barlas is Big on Boer Goats............................................................................................ 36

Farm Bureau’s Ag Days Brings the Farm to Nearly 5,000 City Kids................................86

Farm Bureau’s Ag Days Brings the Farm To Town..........................................................38

Jones Family is Sonoma County Fair’s Top Dairy...........................................................88

Rex and Kerry Williams are Sonoma County Fair’s Ranchers of the Year......................40

Wine Wizard Jess Jackson Inducted into Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame................................................................90

McIsaac Dairy of Novato is Sonoma County Fair’s North Bay Dairy of the Year............42

Kunde Estate Winery Honored with Farm Bureau’s Luther Burbank Conservation Award............................................................................ 92

4-H’ers From Sonoma and Sebastopol Top the Sonoma Fair’s Lamb and Goat Shows............................................................................ 44

Ballettos Will be Honored as Farm Family of the Year...................................................94

Agriculture Leader Rich Kunde Inducted Into Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame................................................................46

4-H’ers from Healdsburg and Santa Rosa Top the County Fair’s Lamb and Goat Shows................................................................................................... 96

Steve Olson, a Remarkable Life Dedicated to Agriculture and Education.....................48 Rancher Ernie Ongaro Writes Book On The Brands of Sonoma And Marin Counties...50

Bret Munselle Continues his Family’s 130 Year Farming Legacy in the Alexander Valley.................................................................................................. 98

Healdsburg Rancher George Greeott Chalks Up 60 Years as Farm Bureau Member................................................................................. 52

Mengali Plowing Dishes the Dirt in Wine Country Vineyards......................................100 Betty Carr, As American as Mom’s Apple Pie...............................................................102

James Family Cellars Crafting a Wine Legacy One Gold Medal At A Time.....................54

Kozlowski Farms, A Vintage Country Classic................................................................104

Cattle Ranching Part Of The Culture and Landscape In Sonoma And Marin Counties..56

SRJC’s Shone Farm Vineyards, Venue for Learning......................................................106

Martinelli Family, Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year...........................................170

Mitch Mulas Retires After 40 Years on the Board of Sonoma County Farm Bureau....108

Farm Bureau’s “Love of the Land” Celebrates Stewards of the Land .........................172

Sonoma and Marin Counties - Epicenter of Artisan Cheesemaking in California........110

Petaluma Creamery Turns 100 and Still Keeps Churning.............................................174

Farm Bureau’s Ag Days Brings the Farm to 5,000 City Kids.........................................112

Santa Rosa Farmers Market – Sonoma County’s True Original ...................................176

Legendary Horseman Johnny Brazil Honored by the Sonoma County Fair.................114

Farm Bureau Member? Why not?............................................................................... 178

Mulases Will be Honored as Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year.............................................116

Our Right to Farm........................................................................................................ 179 Farmer Vic – Ag’s Goodwill Ambassador.....................................................................180

Moretti Family Dairy is Sonoma County Fair’s Dairy of the Year.................................118

Christmas Comes to Crane Country.............................................................................182

Sonoma County Fair Opens With A Splash to Mark 75 Years as County’s Best and Biggest Attraction..........................................120

Passing Down the Family Farm.................................................................................... 184

Sonoma County Fair’s 75th Anniversary Diamond Jubilee A Fair to Remember.........122

Sonoma County’s Culture of Food and Wine..............................................................185

Hit the Pumpkin Trail in Sonoma County.....................................................................124

Robert Giacomini Dairy Honored for Love of its Land.................................................186

Valley Ford Cheese Carves a Niche on the Bianchi Family Dairy.................................126

Wool, a Shear Delight in Valley Ford...........................................................................188

Willie Bird Turkeys Take Flight for the Holiday............................................................128

Hail and Farewell to Saralee........................................................................................ 190

Make it a Country Christmas, Sonoma County Style...................................................130

Rancho’s Trials and Tribulations.................................................................................. 191

Bosworth General Store Moseys Into Its Second Century as Family Owned Business................................................................132

Great Sonoma Crab & Wine Fest Raises more than $100,000 for Scholarships..........192 Ag Days Brings the Farm to more than 4,000 School Kids...........................................194

Bob Cabral of Healdsburg’s Williams-Selyem Hailed as World’s Best Winemaker......134

Fields of Dreams.......................................................................................................... 196

Sonoma County’s Homegrown Twin Chefs ................................................................136

A Legendary Life, Well Lived ....................................................................................... 197

Ag Days Brings the Farm to Town for 5,000 Kids.........................................................138

Fred & Nancy Cline, Conservatives & Conservationists .............................................198

Rex and Kerry Williams are Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year............................................................................................... 140

Gambonini Family, Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year ........................................200 Annual Crop Reports Tell Agriculture’s Story ..............................................................202

Al Cadd, the Man of the Russian River........................................................................142

It’s a Fair Summer........................................................................................................ 203

Art Lafranchi Inducted into Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame..................144

Art Ibleto, Sonoma County’s Goodwill Ambassador ...................................................204

Cattlewoman Bobbie Hall is Sonoma County Fair’s Rancher of the Year....................146

Barn Raising for Saralee and Richard...........................................................................206

County’s Agricultural Heritage Celebrated at Farm Bureau’s “Love of the Land”.......148

Big-Time, Part-Time Farmers....................................................................................... 207

Arturo Ibleto, A Bella Life in Sonoma County..............................................................150

The Farmer’s Friend..................................................................................................... 208

Jim Groverman, the Father of Petaluma’s Popular Roadside Attraction.....................152

Trail to Bountiful.......................................................................................................... 209

Sonoma Compost: Dishing Dirt to Farms and Gardens...............................................154

Thank God for the Grapes........................................................................................... 210

Oak Hill Farm Crafts Wreaths That Are Uniquely Sonoma County..............................156

Thank You Tito............................................................................................................. 211

Frizelle Enos Still Going – and Growing - Strong at 75.................................................158

Going, Going Gone...................................................................................................... 212

Neve Bros., a Floral Legacy in Petaluma......................................................................160

Connecting Kids and Ag .............................................................................................. 213

Great Sonoma Crab & Wine Fest Has Become Region’s Biggest and Best – Benefit Crab Feed............................................................162

Growing Farms and Farmers....................................................................................... 214

Ag Days Brings Grandpa’s Farm to 3,500 School Kids..................................................164

A Salute to Two Ag Heroes.......................................................................................... 215

Tish Ward, Conservation Crusader.............................................................................. 166

Goodbye, for now, to Sonoma Compost ....................................................................216

Saralee, Sonoma County’s Fair Lady............................................................................168

A New Chapter............................................................................................................ 217

Preface By Rachel LaFranchi, Sonoma County Farm Bureau

hroughout Sonoma County and beyond, Tim Tesconi is a common name in agricultural households. Many know Tesconi through the last 10 years he spent serving as community relations coordinator and then executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, and many more know him through his 33 year career writing about North Bay agriculture for The Press Democrat. Tesconi retired after 43 years of service to the agriculture industry in the fall of 2015. The following year, he was inducted into Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame. The award recognizes prominent members of the community for their commitment to preserving and protecting agricultural land throughout the county. Past recipients include the late Saralee McClelland Kunde, Jess Jackson, Gene Benedetti and many more. A self-described “ag nerd”, Tesconi has been involved with agriculture his entire life. His real interest in agriculture was sparked by Wes Jamison, Tesconi’s ag teacher at Santa Rosa High School. Tesconi said Jamison had a knack for finding kids and guiding them like an old sheep dog to get involved and become leaders in the ag industry. Tesconi enjoyed chronicling agriculture throughout the county. He attributes his success to good sources and great ag leaders around the North Bay. But even more so, for Tesconi, the people he was writing about were important. He loved profiling ag individuals, referring to them as “salt of the earth people.” Tim spent his career celebrating North Bay agriculturalists. Spanning from 2007 to 2015, this collection of articles is a snapshot of the content written by Tesconi over his tenure at Sonoma County Farm Bureau and contains articles featuring farmers and ranchers in Sonoma and Marin Counties.

Foreward By Gaye Lebaron, prepared for Love of the Land in 2015

hen Tim Tesconi retired in 2006 from his three-plus decades as the highly respected voice of Sonoma County agriculture, he flatly refused to be honored at a party, not even a “caking” in the office as was often done at departures. But our colleague Chris Smith bade him farewell in one of his daily columns as “a former Santa Rosa farm boy who writes sweeter than Forestville raspberries and modestly shrugs off praise.” That was an understatement on both counts. He not only shies from the spotlight, but has written what amounts to a history of agriculture in Sonoma County in the past forty years. That history includes the Sonoma County Fair, ag’s traditional showplace. The fairgrounds has been Tim’s second home since he showed cattle there as a farm kid and, in 2013, he had his comeuppance when the Fair Board, surreptitiously, of course, -- dedicated the Exhibitor Handbook to him. Tim, who much prefers lurking in the background with the brim of his hat pulled low, has often failed in his bid to be anonymous. He is now officially retired again and his Farm Bureau compatriots are not willing to let him go quietly. This is my chance, then to say what I think about Tim the writer, who could make a news story read like poetry, and about Tim the Farm Bureau’s spokesman for Sonoma County agriculture. What I say to both is that he has been the gold standard. Art Volkerts, who was Tim’s editor for many years and who was, himself, a one-time farm boy, once confided in me that if he could clone just one reporter and make that one into his whole staff, he would have a newsroom filled with Tim Tesconis. He not only knew the territory, but he had all the crafts necessary to produce a successful regional newspaper. His leadership of the agricultural community these past nine years was based on a clear understanding of the current situation. In an op-ed piece in the newspaper last year he wrote about the current climate of Sonoma County agriculture in his own cogent and clever manner. The old days – the time of the small, diverse farm with a few fruit trees, some hops and a little vineyard -- are gone, he told us: “Old MacDonald went bankrupt years ago and moved to a trailer park in Idaho.” Point taken. So he has bowed out, covered with honors, with laurel wreaths and paths strewn with rose petals – figuratively speaking, of course. We wish him well. But there’s really no need to worry about his future. A man like Tim, with a wife who still admires him after all these years, two accomplished young men for sons and a piece of good Sonoma County land where he can till the garden and fix the fences. How much better can it be?

February 2007

All in the Family at Neve Bros. Roses in Petaluma ou Neve of Petaluma is a proud survivor in the California flower business, reinventing his agricultural enterprise so it can profitably pass to another generation of family flower growers in Sonoma County. Neve is swift and deliberate when asked what prevented Neve Bros. Roses on Bodega Avenue in Petaluma from becoming one of the casualties when cheap flowers from South America flooded the market, forcing dozens of California growers out of business. “Change. You have to move with the changes,” said Neve, who wasn’t about to let the family business go by the wayside on his watch. “We adapted by focusing first and foremost on quality and service, which is difficult for the foreign produces to provide.” Neve, curious and edgy, notes that too many farmers are unwilling to make the changes necessary to keep the farm. He constantly scouts for change and the opportunities that come with it. “In agriculture if you stay the same you are going backwards,” he said as workers in the Neve packing shed bundled bouquets of brilliantly-hued roses for markets around the San Francisco Bay Area. The Neve name has become a hallmark for quality roses, big long-stemmed beauties grown hydroponically in green houses on the family’s 30 acre ranch outside Petaluma. Neve’s father, the late John Neve, established the Petaluma rose growing operation in 1967 after relocating the family flower business from Colma. “These days you don’t see many family flower businesses making it to the next generation,” said Neve, a third generation flower grower whose sons, Nick, 23, and Chris, 21, work in the family business. The fourth generation Neve brothers hold positions in management and sales, relishing the diversity of a family farming operation that spreads over 120 acres on two ranches in southern Sonoma County. “It’s never boring,” said Chris Neve. “One day I might be doing electrical work and then the next day day I will be planting or selling roses.” He said growing up in the business bestows an innate familiarity of the market’s ups-and-downs and the rhythm of the seasonal production cycles. Change is never easy, requiring more commitment and a greater investment in the business, said Lou Neve, who became the business’s sole propietor of Neve Bros. after buying out his brother Victor Neve. The name Neve Bros. continues, looking to the day when Lou Neve’s two sons take the reins. Neve Bros. Roses once only grew roses and sold them at the San Francisco Flower Market - the typical agricultural model of producing a commodity and then taking what the market will pay. Today, Neve and his sons not only grow specialty roses but more than 20 different kinds of flowers, ranging from shade loving hydrangeas to sunflowers. Instead of selling everything at one market, they have more than 250 customers, mostly high-end floral shops that want their flowers fresh and farm grown. Neve Bros. trucks are on the road five days a week, delivering the flowers that will decorate the church for a wedding in Tiburon or the lobby of a swank hotel on San Francisco’s Union Square. The Neve family is now gearing up for the Valentine’s Day rush, when sweethearts

Top to Bottom: Nick Neve, Chris Neve 8

everywhere express their love with flowers, primarily, red roses. Valentine’s Day, once the biggest holiday for flowers, is now second to Mother’s Day for flower sales. Although roses still account for 70 percent of Neve’s annual sales, red roses are not the main attraction during months other than February. Like fashion, said Neve, tastes in the colors of roses are constantly changing, with blush oranges and rich, jewel-tone colors topping the preferred lists of florists and retailers. “Flowers are a beauty business. We have to be on top of what people think is beautiful and like everything else that keeps changing too,” said Neve. Nearly every year one of the Neve family members travels to Holland for trade shows that preview the newest rose varieties. “It’s the Dutch Olympics of flowers,” said Chris Neve. “It’s where you need to be to keep up with the trends in the flower business.” The Neves have become a major player in the San Francisco Bay Area flower business by becoming a full-service floral purveyor, producing a variety of seasonal, field grown flowers, like snowballs and sunflowers, and the foliage that is artistically mixed into bouquets. The expansion took a big leap in 2002 when the Neves bought a 90-acre ranch on Roblar Road in the Two Rock area west of Petaluma. The ranch, a former organic vegetable farm, provides the land for the Neves to grow cool-climate flowers like hydrangeas. The area’s mild climate is ideal for growing eye-popping posies from early

spring until late in the fall. “The Roblar Road ranch has allowed us to extend our flower growing season,” said Lou Neve. “We can start earlier and go later. It also gives us the land to grow foliage, which gives us a competitive edge in the flower business.” The ranch also provides Neve with land to pursue another of his passions: breeding Thoroughbred race horses. He purchased the foundation stock for his horse breeding operation from leading stables in Kentucky. He plans to maintain seven or eight brood mares on the Roblar Road Ranch. “I acquired good stock so that I can do it right when it comes to breeding top quality race horses,” said Neve, a newcomer to the horse industry but a man propelled by steely determination to breed the best. “I don’t think you can be in the race horse business unless you have passion and I definitely have the passion.” As he looks over his horse paddocks and fields of flowers from his pickup truck, Neve says life and business are good in Sonoma County. He plans to gradually turn over more of the management of the flower business to his sons so he can spend more time with his horses. He likes dabbling in both flowers and horses because both are something of profound beauty. “I’m not sure I will ever completely retire,” said Neve, who appreciates the beauty that surrounds him each day. “I just enjoy what I’m doing way too much to retire.”

Lou Neve at work running the John Deere in the greenhouse. 9

March 2007

Kelley Parsons Keeps Tomatoes Rolling Winter and Spring K

elley Parsons is known as the “tomato lady” at Sonoma County farmers markets where in the dead of winter she peddles the bright red tomatoes she grows in a greenhouse on her Fulton farm. Although not as tasty or juicy as the red ripe orbs that roll out of backyard gardens in September and October, Parson’s tomatoes are a darn good alternative during those months when it’s not easy to find a tomato worth slathering with mayo. Parsons, a homegrown Sonoma County product herself, has developed a niche market by growing tomatoes during those months when no one else can in Sonoma County. She’s become the local queen of hot-house tomatoes, enjoying the camaraderie of her faithful customers as much as her unusual type of farming. “People at farmers markets ask if my tomatoes are sweet,” said Parsons, recounting the comments from her tomato-squeezing customers at chilly markets during January and February. “I tell them my tomatoes are not the same tomato as the sun-ripened, juicy tomato they get in August but they are the best they can get this time of year.” Tomato lovers keep coming back for more each week at the farmers markets and up-scale grocery stores where Parson’s tomatoes are a salad mainstay from January to August. Parsons produces about 1,000 pounds of tomatoes a week from the 3,700 square foot greenhouse on her family’s 15 acre ranch on Wood Road in west Santa Rosa. “When everyone else has tomatoes coming out of their backyards in August, that’s when I close up and enjoy myself. August is when we take a family vacation and usually it involves our horses,” said Parsons, active in many agricultural organizations in Sonoma County and member of the current class of the California Agricultural Leadership Program. Parsons and her husband Tom Parsons, a building contractor, and their children Brooke, 14, and Mitch, 12, are passionate about horses. The Parsons’ ranch includes an eight-acre vineyard but the rest of the land is used to pasture and stable the horses that keep the family riding high in the saddle at events ranging from junior rodeos to mountain trail rides. Parsons grows her tomatoes using hydroponics, a technology for growing plants in nutrient solutions. The tomato plants are rooted in an artificial medium with the nutrients pumped through an irrigation system. The inside of the greenhouse looks like a slice of tomato heaven where hedge rows of vines are laden with near-perfect, blemish-free tomatoes. “This is a different type of farming in that it’s very confined and intensified,” said Parsons. “It’s unbelievable how much food can be grown in such a small space.” Like many advocates of hydroponic farming, Parsons believes the technology offers great opportunity for food production as farmland becomes scarce. The tomatoes can be grown all year long, no matter what the weather outside the greenhouse, which provides a confined environment for disease and pest control. Parsons has learned a lot since harvesting her first crop of tomatoes in 1995, the year

after she built her greenhouse and changed careers. Parsons was working as an insurance underwriter when she was asked to assess a hydroponic farm seeking insurance. A farm girl with a degree in agricultural science, Parsons specialized in agricultural operations but knew nothing about hydroponics. She became intrigued with the possibilities of this agricultural technology and learned more about it. As a young mother, she saw it as a way to work from the family ranch and be involved in a profitable agricultural endeavor. She’s never looked back but is always looking forward. She has plans to expand her greenhouse so she can grow more tomatoes. This month, Parson’s tomatoes will make their debut in Washington, D.C. As a member of the California Agriculture Leadership Class, Parsons and her 21 classmates will travel to Washington to meet with lawmakers and get a better understanding of the political process. Class members affiliated with a crop, whether wine, cheese or apples, will bring what they produce to share with the 350 lawmakers attending a reception hosted by the agricultural leadership class. “I’ll be the only one with tomatoes,” said Parsons.

Kelley Parsons showing off her hydroponic tomatoes. 11

April 2007

Ag Days 2007 - Biggest Ever!

g Days is a spring tradition in Sonoma County, a time when the county’s agriculture industry brings a taste of country life to town so thousands of school children can learn more about the farms and ranches that unfold on the urban edge. Sonoma County Farm Bureau, which annually sponsors Ag Days, proclaimed this year’s event the biggest ever in the 27 years it’s been held. There were 4,500 school kids, 300 teachers and 1,200 parents, a total of more than 6,000 people, attending the two-day event at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. There were farm animal exhibits, soil composting demonstrations, a hay maze, tractors and many other exhibits and demonstrations related to the county’s $3 billion farming industry. Kids munched on Sebastopol apples and sampled cheese and milk produced by Sonoma County cows. “Ag Days is a unique opportunity where we can educate children, parents and teachers all together about the importance of agriculture to their lives and to the community,” said Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Doug Beretta, a Santa Rosa dairy rancher and president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, has been participating in Ag Days for 20 years, bringing Jersey and Holstein calves for city kids to pet and pamper. Beretta, a born educator with the patience of a preacher, tells the children about his life as a dairy farmer and the joys and challenges of farming. He explains the different breeds of dairy cattle and allows the youthful visitors

to pet the calves from his farm. He patiently answers their questions – no matter how offbeat – and then quickly sets them straight. One kid thought Beretta’s doe-eyed Jersey calf was a camel. The city kid knew all about the black-and-white Holsteins but had never seen a brown Jersey so assumed it was baby camel because, after all, camels are brown. “Ag Days are all about educating and connecting with kids,” said Beretta, “I look forward to meeting the kids and helping them gain a better understanding of agriculture and the practices we must do on a farm. There are more urban residents than farmers in Sonoma County so agriculture’s future depends on voters who have an understanding and appreciation for the farming industry that keeps land in open space and maintains the rural character that makes Sonoma County such a special place.” Beretta said over the last two decades he has noticed a definite trend as Sonoma County’s human population grows: there are fewer kids coming to Ag Days who have a farm background. “Today even the parents coming to Ag Days have little connection with farms or the land. Twenty years there were some parents who had a direct link to a farm through parents and grandparents,” said Beretta. “Every year people in Sonoma County are further removed from the farm experience.” Sonoma County farms, ranches, vineyards, orchards and related agriculture business 12

propel a farm economy valued at $3 billion, making agriculture the county’s most visible and important industry. Farms and ranches encompass more than 500,000 of the 1 million acres in Sonoma County. Wine grapes are the leading agricultural industry, followed by the horse industry, dairy farms and cattle. Farming sectors like apples and sheep, once leading industries in the county, have dwindled. Sheep and apple production continues on a smaller scale, adding to the county’s agricultural diversity. Ag Days has grown into a major event to represent the many facets of Sonoma County agriculture. Farm Bureau sponsors Ag Days but many agriculture-related groups and individual ranchers support the event. Ranchers like Joyce Doughty, Cheryl LaFranchi, Bobby Mickelson, Lynn Kracker and Rex and Kerry Williams bring livestock ranging from Angus cattle to Boer goats. Horseman Michael Murphy and other horse owners fully support Ag Days by staging a continuing arena show that depicts different breeds of horses and varied styles of riding. The kids are drawn to the horses like bees to spring flowers. “The kids are so enthralled with the horses and ask so many questions, like the horse’s age and name. Sonoma County Ag Days have become a wonderful showcase for agriculture. Ag Days just gets better and better, fine-tuned each year to be a very worthwhile experience for the thousands of children who attend,” said Murphy, former president of the Sonoma County Horse Council. Will Hart, a second grade teacher at Schaefer Elementary School in Santa Rosa, has been bringing his students to Ag Days for the last three years and plans to be back next year and in the years ahead. He said it’s a valuable experience that he incorporates into his lesson plans about Sonoma County and where the students live. “An event like this teaches children that agriculture is part of Sonoma County,” said Hart. “We talk about living in an agricultural community and how everything is linked to agriculture.” The Ag Days event at the fairgrounds has been held as part of the observance of National Agriculture Week, a time set aside by Congress to pay tribute to the contributions, productivity and efficiency of the America farmer. National Agriculture Week is held in mid-March each year, coinciding with the first week of spring, a time of birth and renewal on the family farm. In addition to the Ag Days exhibits and demonstrations, Farm Bureau also sponsors a number of contests aimed at making children think about the source of their food and fiber. This year the theme of the contests was “Food Starts on the Family Farm.” Hundreds of school children entered the contests, which included categories for the best bookmark, poster, essay, scarecrow, mural and farm photograph. The winners in the various recognized at Farm Bureau’s Ag Awards Dinner where nearly 1,000 prize-winning kids, parents, teachers, principals and agriculture leaders came together to recognize the accomplishments of the youth entering the contests. Chris Smith, columnist for The Press Democrat, was the master of ceremonies, encouraging the young people to appreciate how a thriving agricultural industry enhances the lifestyle of everyone living in Sonoma County. Santa Rosa returned to its rural roots on March 21 when draft horses and antique tractors briefly took over downtown streets for Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s first ever Farm Parade, held to kick off Ag Days at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. It was an old-fashioned parade complete with a color guard, a rodeo queen, lots of excited kids and waving dignitaries. Santa Rosa mayor Bob Blanchard rode in a fringed buggy pulled by two magnificent Percheron draft horses. Legendary cowboy Johnny Brazil of Geyservile was the parade’s grand marshal. Johnny, who has won more than 60 championships for his skills as a horseman, rode

shotgun on the stagecoach driven and owned by Santa Rosa’s Roy Nonella. “It was just fantastic the way this home-grown parade came off. It brought a tickle to my spine to see the smiling kids and the waving spectators when country came to town,” said Pat Alexander, a Kenwood horsewoman who helped organize the Farm Parade. Horsewoman Linda Aldrich also rounded up entries for what Farm Bureau hopes will become an annual event celebrating agriculture and the spirit of rural Sonoma County. “The parade was just exceptional and it will be even bigger and better next year,” said Aldrich. “It’s just so wonderful to see so many beautiful horses parading through Santa Rosa.” It was a sight to remember as traffic on busy Sonoma Avenue slowed for the power and grace of draft horses and the putt-putt of vintage tractors. Office workers came out on the streets or looked through their windows to watch the passing parade. Santa Rosa Police Sgt. Steve Bair, who heads the police department’s mounted patrol unit, assigned officers on motorcycles to control traffic so the parade could make its way down Sonoma Avenue and onto Brookwood Avenue to the fairgrounds. The parade came together because of the dedication of farm folks and the draft horse and antique tractor enthusiasts who took time off work to join the procession from Doyle Park to the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. Everyone got into the spirit of promoting agriculture and providing a meaningful experience for school children. “I do it for the kids,” said Dick Dilworth, a Geyserville rancher who brought his draft horse team to town for the small but impressive parade. The kids lucky enough to be in the parade were thrilled. Wearing cowboy hats and Western scarves, 40 kindergarten students from Doyle Park School rode in horse-drawn wagons to the Ag Days event at the fairgrounds. Principal Fran Link said it was an experience the children will remember for a long time. She also took great pleasure in seeing the modern world slow for the horses and wagons. “Having a bit of yesterday take over for a short time was a lot of fun,” said Fran, who joined the kindergarten students in one of the wagons that went to the fairgrounds. In addition to wagon drivers Roy Nonella and Dick Dilworth and his son Casey Dilworth, the other teamsters taking the reins of parade wagons were Neil Shepard of Glen Ellen, Pat and Nancy Prather of Bodega Bay and Dr. Glenn Benjamin of Healdsburg. The large wagons that were used to carry the Doyle Park kindergarteners were provided by Pat Alexander and Carl and Catherine Riebli of Sebastopol. The color guard leading the parade was the senior drill team of the Petaluma Riding and Driving Club. The team members in the parade were Caryn Reade of Penngrove, Stephanie Barr of Fairfax, Rebecca Larcher of Santa Rosa, Lauren Camarda of Petaluma and Margaret Salvador of Petaluma. The vintage tractors in the parade were owned and driven by members of the Early Days Gas Engine Club. Joining the parade were Kathleen Righetti of Santa Rosa, Lonnie Sisson of Sebastopol, Al Vanderford of Santa Rosa and Dick Shone of Petaluma. Jennifer Beretta, an alternate District 3 Dairy Princess, and Liz Bohan, the Russian River Rodeo Queen, rode in the wagon with Mayor Bob Blanchard. Calan Seitz and Kathryn Hamon, both of Santa Rosa, rode their horses in the parade as representatives of Pony Express. 13

May 2007

Larry Bertolini, Sonoma County Agriculture’s Elder Statesman Founder and President of Western Farm Center, a Driving Force in Agriculture and the Community

ven before he turned 80 last month, Santa Rosa’s Larry Bertolini, founder and president of Western Farm Center, was a beloved Sonoma County icon, a man treasured for his community spirit and generous support of agriculture and farm youth. For a half-century, Larry has been the go-to-guy when 4-H, FFA, Farm Bureau or any other community group needs help, whether it’s selling 4-H Chickenque tickets or providing baby chicks for Farm Bureau’s Ag Days. Larry’s wise counsel and decades of business experience have made him a valued member of boards and commissions. Now at 80 he’s become Sonoma County agriculture’s elder statesman.

“I’ve enjoyed it all because I always wanted to be involved in Sonoma County agriculture and do my part to help keep land in farms and ranches,” said Larry, who has received a roomful of awards for his dedication to the community he loves. “I actively support the 4-H and FFA programs and agricultural education because I believe it’s the best way to ensure we have the next generation moving into agriculture.” Larry’s contributions reach beyond agriculture into the larger community as well. For 17 years, he served on the board of trustees of Santa Rosa Junior College, which is naming a building, the Lawrence A. Bertolini Student Services Center, in his honor. For 14

Olson first met Larry Bertolini when Olson was a SRJC student working at a “competing” feed store, Nelligan Brothers at Second and B streets in Santa Rosa. “I use the term “competing” but that really wasn’t the case,” said Olson. “Larry treated the Nelligans and their employees like he treats everyone else, with a warm smile, a firm handshake and the genuine greeting “how can I help you today” and he meant every word of it. Larry is the most generous person I have ever known.” Part of Western Farm Center’s charm is its historic buildings perched along the railroad tracks, once the main mode of transportation in Santa Rosa. The landmark warehouse at Western Farm dates back to the 19th century. In 1896 the giant corrugated building that now houses grain and dog food was the Merritt Fruit Express, a bustling packing house for the apples, pears and cherries produced on the hundreds of Sonoma County farms. Until 1989, a corner of this sprawling building also housed Western Farm Center’s retail store. But the cramped, funky space wasn’t big enough to accommodate the growing business so a larger store was built across the parking lot. Another part of the Western Farm complex is a red brick building constructed in the late 19th century as the DeTurk Winery. The Bertolinis store tons of pet food in the old winery. Another building, built in the 1920’s as the Ice House for the Grace Bros. Brewery, also serves as a warehouse. Larry is a longtime member of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, the county’s largest and most influential agricultural organization. In 1995, he was named the “Friend of Farm Bureau,” recognized for his many contributions to the organization and agriculture. Like many others in Sonoma County, Larry relies on Farm Bureau to monitor local government and regulatory agencies to determine the impacts that proposed laws and regulations will have on farming. “We are fortunate to have a strong Farm Bureau in Sonoma County. It’s an influential organization that is watching out for agriculture’s interests and for the rights of property owners,” said Larry, who has always been active in agriculture and trade groups. He is past president of the California Grain and Feed Association and past chairman and founder of the California Retail Farm Store Council. The Farm Bureau honor is just one of the many awards Larry has received during his decades as a community leader and agricultural activist. He’s been named the Friend of Sonoma County 4-H and has received the Harvest Fair award for a “Lifetime Contribution to Sonoma County Agriculture” and the Santa Rosa Chamber of Commerce’s Leadership in Agriculture Award. For decades, Larry has been recognized as the “Voice of Sonoma County.” For more than 40 years he has been field sports announcer for high school and junior college football, basketball, and baseball games as well as the announcer at the Sonoma County Fair’s Junior Livestock Auctions. Along with auctioneers Louis Ricci and Tony Brazil, Larry has been a fixture at the fair auctions for as long as anyone can remember. Larry’s volunteer efforts on behalf of sports earned him induction into the Sports Hall of Fame at Santa Rosa Junior College. Larry, of course, has no plans to retire from the business that he has groomed like a prized race horse. From his office in a corner of the store, Larry can see the steady stream of customers, many of them dedicated, long-time patrons, who line up to purchase salt blocks, rabbit pellets and flea powder. “It’s always great to look out at the store and see customers who have been coming in for 20 and 30 years,” said Larry.

many years Larry and his wife Rosie have been active in supporting Canine Companions for Independence. Larry and his brother, Lou, who is 75, are the proud proprietors of Western Farm Center, a unique feed, seed and pet emporium that also is celebrating a milestone birthday. This year, Western Farm Center is observing its 40th anniversary as the “little farm in the city,” a place where the varied lifestyles in Sonoma County come together for everything from chicken scratch to gourmet doggie dinners and horse bridles to hog mash. The brothers Bertolini were born in a house three blocks from the farm store where they can be found every day tending to business. The brothers became interested in agriculture as children when their parents, the late Aristide and Stella Bertolini, supplied area households and small grocery stores with produce from their 22-acre truck garden in west Santa Rosa. In the days before the Golden Gate Bridge and refrigerated trucks, Santa Rosa residents got their produce from the Bertolinis and four other families, the Imwalles, Bertolis, Bassignanis and Locatelis. Imwalle Gardens on West Third Street in Santa Rosa is the only surviving vegetable farm, an agricultural landmark amid houses and strip malls. “We used to peddle vegetables door-to-door around town,” said Larry, who was the oldest of seven children. “We’d pick them one day and deliver them the next.” “We’re just good old farmers who got into the feed business,” said Lou. Western Farm Center is the kind of place national magazines would describe as uniquely Sonoma County, a blend of Wine Country charm, old-world values and new age trends, particularly when it comes to pet care. Western Farm Center’s customers range from McDonald Avenue matrons in Mercedes to old cowboys in banged-up pickup trucks. Everyone gets the royal treatment no matter if they are wearing filthy blue jeans or a Chanel suit. “Unfailing courtesy,” proclaimed one customer. Western Farm Center has 38 employees including Lou and Larry’s younger brother, Bob Bertolini, and Larry’s daughter, Debbi DeBriun. Larry has three daughters, seven grandchildren and two great grandchildren. Many of Western Farm’s employees have backgrounds that make them highly versed in specific areas such as horses, dogs, birds and bees. The staff’s know-how is what separates Western Farm Center from the big box stores and supermarkets. Customers with an animal problem - chickens that won’t lay eggs or a cat with kidney stones - often get the help they need from Western Farm Center’s clerks. The Bertolini brothers’ retail farm store has changed with the urban growth in Sonoma County, moving primarily from livestock feed 30 years to mostly pet food and supplies today. “We call this place the little farm in the city,” said Larry, “But as Santa Rosa expands and takes over the farms on the edge our business has shifted more to pet foods.” Still, Western Farm Center, located on West Seventh Street in an area known as Old Italian Town, has a country feel, even though it’s just a few blocks northwest of bustling Railroad Square. The barn out back offers live rabbits, ducks, chickens and pigeons. There are baby chicks for those who want to raise their own version of Rocky the Range Chicken. “Sonoma County agriculture owes a debt of gratitude to Larry because it is through the “little farm in the city” that generations of local residents have grown to understand and appreciate agriculture and its contribution to the economic vitality of the region,” said Steve Olson, Dean of Occupational Education and Economic Development at Santa Rosa Junior College and a longtime friend. “Larry is a legendary figure at SRJC and in the agriculture community.” 15

June 2007

Sonoma County Farm Bureau Enters Rose Parade - Float Takes 1st Place Tractor Pulled Float-Commemorates Farm Bureau’s 90th Anniversary

o kick off the celebration of its 90th anniversary, Sonoma County Farm Bureau entered a float in the annual Santa Rosa Rose Parade to showcase Farm Bureau’s respected role as the “Voice of Sonoma County Agriculture.” The Rose Parade, a tradition in Santa Rosa for the last 113 years, was held on May 19 through downtown Santa Rosa. Thousands of people lined the streets to watch the floats, marching bands, equestrians, vintage cars, antique tractors and other units in the two-hour parade. The Farm Bureau float, adorned with roses and produce, carried 14 past presidents of Sonoma County Farm Bureau as well as members of the 4-H and FFA organizations and first alternate District Three Dairy Princess Megan Hess of Petaluma. It was a display of the agricultural unity in Sonoma County and Farm Bureau’s efforts to cultivate the next generation of farmers, ranchers and agribusiness leaders in Sonoma County. The past presidents riding in the parade were Mitch Mulas of Sonoma, Henry Cornelssen of Santa Rosa, Lee Brians of Penngrove, Art Cader of Petaluma, William Petersen of Sebastopol, Bev Wasson of Rio Nido, Don DeBernardi of Petaluma, Norm Yenni of Sonoma, John Bucher of Healdsburg, Richard Mounts of Healdsburg, Richard Olufs of Windsor, Ray Mulas of Sonoma, Mike Strunk of Sebastopol and current Farm Bureau president Doug Beretta of Santa Rosa. The past presidents represented the leadership at Farm Bureau over the last 35 years. The former Farm Bureau presidents unavailable to participate in the parade included Dane Peterson of Geyserville, George Mertens of Sonoma, Domenic Carinalli of Sebastopol and Andy Camozzi of Oregon. The colorful float, centered on a Western theme, took first place in the novelty-nonprofit category of the parade competition. The float was created by sisters Pat Geib Alexander and Janet Geib Uboldi, who are members of a well-known Kenwood ranching family and also members of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. They used Pat’s people-mover wagon as the basis for the float, which was pulled by a red, vintage Farmall tractor owned and driven by Farm Bureau director Al Gerhardt of Occidental. The wagon was draped in burlap and decked with roses, produce and antique farm implements. Inside the wagon, a table was beautifully set with wine and food, bringing home the float’s theme, “Farmers Tame the Wild West and Bring the Food to Your Table.” The float garnered lots of attention because it was topped with a life-sized, moldedplastic Angus steer, a faux cow that added new meaning to the phrase “Where’s the Beef?” Pat and Janet were assisted in building the Farm Bureau float by Lisa Bauer of Kenwood, Farm Bureau director Walt Ryan, volunteer Jared Marson and members of the Farm Bureau staff. When the Farm Bureau float arrived at the reviewing stand, the announcer said, “Sonoma County Farm Bureau celebrates its 90th anniversary as the “Voice of Sonoma

County Agriculture.” Farm Bureau is a grass-roots organization dedicated to preserving Sonoma County’s rich agricultural heritage. Farm Bureau’s mission is to protect family farms by representing the interests of the farmers and ranchers who annually propel Sonoma County’s $3 billion farm industry. Farm Bureau wants everyone to imagine what Sonoma County would be like without the cows and vines that make this county the real deal.”

Fourteen past presidents of Sonoma County Farm Bureau were honored on May 19 for their leadership in Farm Bureau, which is celebrating its 90th anniversary as the county’s largest and most influential agricultural organization. The past presidents rode in a place of honor in Farm Bureau’s first place float in the Santa Rosa Rose Parade. The past presidents gathering for the parade were Back row, left to right, Richard Mounts, Norm Yenni, Lee Brians, Doug Beretta, Hank Cornelssen, William Petersen and John Bucher. Front row, left to right, Rick Olufs, Art Cader, Bev Wasson, Mitch Mulas, Don DeBernardi, Ray Mulas and Mike Strunk. 16

Al Gerhardt and his vintage Farmall tractor pull Farm Bureauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s float in the Santa Rosa Rose Parade. Inside the wagon are 14 former Farm Bureau presidents, along with 4-H and FFA members and first alternate Dairy Princess Megan Hess of Petaluma. 17

July 2007

Martin Pozzi Sonoma County Fair’s Rancher of the Year Fourth-generation rancher has deep ties with the land and Farm Bureau

The Pozzi Family at their ranch in Tomales. Photo by Brenda Hawkes

in their 4-H projects. Pozzi’s family has been ranching in Sonoma and Marin counties for four generations. It’s Pozzi’s hope that his children, Regina, 11, and Steven, 9, will continue as fifthgeneration stewards of coastal pasture land so beautiful and productive it demands to be preserved. Pozzi said even if his children become attorneys or airplane pilots he hopes they will stay connected to the land. “Once you loose the land, you will never get it back,” said Pozzi. It’s a lesson he instills in his children as he teaches them the basics of animal husbandry and a respect for their rural heritage. Pozzi and his wife, Sally, run 900 head of ewes and 300 head of beef cattle doing

artin Pozzi, a fourth generation North Bay livestock rancher, said ranching is still the good life in terms of raising a family but it continues to be a tough way to earn a living – no matter how hard you work. “Ranching is a beautiful life, it just needs to be more profitable,” said Pozzi, of Valley Ford, who was named Outstanding North Bay Rancher of the Year by the Sonoma County Fair. He and his family will be honored during the Farmers Day program on Saturday, July 28 at the Sonoma County Fair. The fair runs July 17 through 30. Pozzi, who is 43, is a proud agricultural survivor, a man dedicated to the land and his family’s farming tradition. He raises sheep and cattle, runs a hay business and maintains an active leadership role in the agricultural industry while shepherding his two children 18

most of the work themselves, whether it’s doctoring calves or fixing fence. Pozzi said the economics of livestock ranching don’t allow for hiring outside help. “We are definitely committed to agriculture for the long-term. We hope that one day things will turn around and we will be able to make enough money on our sheep and cattle to earn a good income,” said Pozzi, who also runs a successful hay business based in Petaluma. For now, he said, the hay business supports his livestock ranching operation that spreads over more than 2,000 acres of owned and leased land in Marin and Sonoma counties. Pozzi himself was an exhibitor at the fair when he was a member of the 4-H and FFA. He is now passing the tradition on to his children who show their own sheep and dairy cattle as members of the 4-H program. Pozzi will spend a good chunk of time this July enjoying what the fair has to offer. Like most ranchers, he loves the fair because it’s where the North Bay’s agricultural community comes together each summer to watch livestock shows, see old friends and support kids at the fair’s junior livestock auctions. Pozzi has spent his entire life devoted to ranching and farming. “Growing up, that’s what I did every day – before school and after school,’’ he said. After graduating from Tomales High School, Pozzi went on to Santa Rosa Junior College and then earned a degree in Animal Science at Fresno State University. While there, he traveled to 26 states for livestock judging and placed fifth in the nation in intercollegiate competition for judging cattle, sheep and hogs. Pozzi has long been involved in Farm Bureau and other agricultural organizations that represent the interests of ranchers and rural property owners. “Farm Bureau has been a huge part of my life and is the best organization that farmers and ranchers have for working collectively to address issues and solve problems,” said Pozzi. “I firmly believe that you can’t complain unless you are willing to step up and fix a problem that needs fixing. Farm Bureau allows us to work together as farmers to protect our land and way of life.” He has served as president of the Marin County Farm Bureau and has served in various other capacities with the California Farm Bureau and the American Farm Bureau. In 1992 he was named California’s Outstanding Young Farmer and Rancher of the Year by the California Farm Bureau. The next year he competed on the national level and won America’s Outstanding Young Farmer and Rancher from the American Farm Bureau. In 1993 he also won the statewide discussion meet sponsored by the California Young Farmers & Ranchers. More recently, Pozzi has spent countless hours in meetings over local attempts to impose restrictions on how farmland in Marin and Sonoma County can be developed, including caps on the size of residential building on large parcels. Pozzi said it’s hard enough making a living from farming and ranching in the North Bay without bureaucrats dictating new rules and regulations that drive up the cost of ranching. “They want to tell you how to farm, but they’re not the ones over here farming,’’ Pozzi said. “Farmers are the No. 1 caretakers of the land. Because if they don’t take care of the land, they don’t have anything, that’s their No. 1 asset.’’ And the challenges of farming and ranching are formidable, he said. For instance, wool from Pozzi’s sheep used to bring in a little extra income. But at a cost of $3 per head to shear a sheep and with wool worth virtually nothing, sheep shearing has become a costly proposition. “It takes a lot just to survive,’’ Pozzi said. “And now they’re voting to put all these regulations on the land. It’s hard because going to public meetings on farm issues takes a lot of time. When you leave the farm, you’re not making money.” Pozzi said his children are getting a valuable lesson in the politics of farming as well

as the principles of agriculture. “Sally and I have been married 13 years and we’ve been dragging our two little kids to hours and hours of public meetings all that time,” said Pozzi. But these days, that’s what it takes to stay in farming.

Steven Pozzi with jersey cow. Photo by Sally Pozzi 19

August 2007

Sebastopol Apple Growers, Lee and Shirley Walker Keep Gravensteins Rolling to Market Gravensteins, the pride of Sebastopol, will be celebrated at annual apple fair Aug. 11-12

ee and Shirely Walker are among the survivors in the Sonoma County apple industry, keeping their Gravensteins and Jonathans when other farmers were ripping out trees to plant Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines in Sebastopol’s apple country. This year, Lee and Shirley are all smiles as one of the biggest apple harvests in memory gets underway, led by the famed Gravenstein, dubbed “the pride of Sebastopol.” On July 19 Gravensteins started rolling out of Sebastopol orchards, providing a tasty summer treat for consumers who savor the spicy flavor of the striped, greenish-yellow apple. The huge harvest ensures lots of apples and pies for the Gravenstein Apple Fair, an old-fashioned festival celebrating the legacy of the apple that plant wizard Luther Burbank proclaimed his favorite of appledom. The Apple Fair is Aug. 11-12 at Ragle Ranch Park in Sebastopol. “It’s a beautiful crop of Gravensteins, one of the best crops I have seen since I started farming apples 60 years ago,” said Lee Walker, 76, who with wife Shirley has soldiered through the booms and busts of apple farming. They have survived by carving a market niche, making Sebastopol-grown Gravensteins and other heirloom apple varieties a highvalue specialty product that commands prices beyond the commodity market. “For the last 25 years we have been hoping that the market for Gravensteins would materialize into what we have today. Gravensteins are now seen as a special apple and people are willing to pay more to get them.,” said Walker, a man of the land who returned to farming following a stint as a pro-baseball player in the Pacific Northwest. Lee Walker’s dedication to agriculture and his tenacity as an apple farmer earned him Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s “Agriculturalist of the Year” Award in 2003. As “Agriculturalist of the Year,” Walker joined a prestigious list of farmers and ranchers who propel Sonoma County’s $3 billion farming industry while preserving the county’s rich agricultural heritage. Like Luther Burbank, Walker also lists the Gravenstein as his absolute favorite apple to eat and grow. He said some years it’s more pleasurable eating them, than growing them, which is a perpetual challenge. “Oh, Gravs can break your heart as a grower. They are temperamental. If you get rain during bloom they don’t set much of a crop. Some years they just start dropping apples off the tree for no apparent reason and, then, some years if you just look at them they bruise,” said Walker, “But when the Gravs are right, like this year, it’s real nice.” Walker estimates yields of 15 tons per acre this year in his Gravenstein orchards. That compares with the county’s six ton average in 2006 and the five ton average in 2005. Walker said tonnage is high in all 26 of the apple varieties he produces at his family’s 60 acre orchard located off Graton Road in Sebastopol. Walker isn’t sure why the apple crop is so big but speculates favorable winter and spring weather conditions set the stage for the bumper harvest. The bountiful crop is welcome following the skimpy harvests of recent years. For Walker and his family, it will be a long and laborious season, with apple picking continuing into December with the

Shirley and Lee Walker proudly displaying some of their best Gravenstein apples. 20

Betty would love to make Gravenstein pies all year long and has been urging growers to dry Gravensteins so she has a year-round supply. The Walkers plan to continue as apple farmers and Gravenstein growers. It’s a family business where three generations of the family help to grow, harvest, pack and deliver the apple crop during a season that stretches from the end of July into December. Lee and Shirley are joined by their grown children, Lee Jr., Sue and John, each apple season. Several grandchildren also pitch in. “The whole family is involved or else we couldn’t do it. Like a lot of family farms, we just do whatever has to be done when it needs to be done, whether it’s driving tractor or packing boxes,” said son Lee Walker Jr., who supervises picking crews and does the trucking of apples to markets around Sonoma County and into the Bay Area. Lee Jr.’s wife, Barbara, sells the Walker apples at the Santa Rosa Farmers Market and his sister, Sue sells at the Windsor Farmers Market. The Walkers also are assisted by many long-time employees including Jose Canela, who has worked for the family for 29 years. While most of the Walkers’ apples are sold through retail outlets, many apple lovers still make the trek up Upp Road, a narrow dirt road off Graton Road, to the Walker Ranch to get Gravenstein apples fresh from the orchards. “There’s something about the Gravensteins that people really like,” said Walker. “Every year we have people driving from Oregon, Nevada and Los Angeles to our farm to buy boxes of Gravensteins. For them, Gravensteins are so good, they are worth the trip.”

late varieties. Walker’s major concern is whether there will be enough workers available to harvest and pack the apples he markets throughout the San Francisco Bay Area. So far, there are enough field workers but he worries about a shrinking pool of labor once the wine grape harvest moves into high gear in September. The rancher’s love affair with the Gravenstein is what has kept him and his family going for more than a half century as apple growers. Apples were once a leading agricultural industry in Sonoma County, with dozens of packing and processing houses bustling during the harvest season. Fortunes were made and lost in apples. Over the last six decades, the county’s Gravenstein orchards have declined by almost 7,000 acres, down to 940 acres today, according to county crop reports. The county’s apple industry has been in sharp decline for 30 years. A world-wide glut of apples has pushed down prices, forcing many apple farmers to either carve their orchards into ranchettes or convert the land to vineyards. The shrinking Gravenstein acreage is so alarming that one international food group fears the Gravenstein could become nearly extinct in Sonoma County, a place where the flavorful but temperamental apple reaches perfection. Slow Food USA, an organization dedicated to preserving artisan foods, has put Gravensteins on its Arc of Flavor, pegging it for salvation along with other American regional delicacies such as the Delaware Bay oyster. The Walkers believe Slow Food’s focus on the Gravenstein has helped increase awareness of the apple’s special qualities as well as its threatened status in the apple world. Betty Carr, the “Mom” of “Mom’s Apple Pies” in Sebastopol, is doing her part to keep Gravensteins anchored in the rolling hills of Sebastopol. Betty bakes the best Gravenstein pies around during the season, showcasing the baking qualities of the homegrown apple. 21

September 2007

Crane Melons Are Farming Legacy for the Crane Family of Santa Rosa This Year’s Crane Melon Crop is Small and Late But Very Sweet

ennifer Crane looks over the patch of Santa Rosa ground farmed by Crane ancestors for the last 155 years and makes the sad assessment that this year’s crop of Crane melons is late and in short supply. “The season for Crane melons will be short and sweet this year. There wasn’t enough spring rain to provide the moisture the vines needed to produce a bountiful crop,” said Crane, 28, the sixth generation of her family to farm the Santa Rosa land settled by Crane family members in 1852. The land has produced everything from oats to sheep, with Crane melons being a farming mainstay since they were developed in the 1920’s by Jennifer’s great, great grandfather Oliver Crane, a homespun plant breeder. Crane expects her first Crane melons to be harvested in the second week of September, with the season lasting until the last precious melon is picked or the first frost hits. When the season’s first melons roll out of the fields, the Cranes will open their landmark Crane Melon Barn on Petaluma Hill Road where customers flock to get the original Crane melons. Each fall the historic barn, built in 1868, becomes a bustling trading post for Crane melons, a uniquely Sonoma County fruit enjoyed by local residents for more than 80 years. The delectable, soccer-ball-sized Crane melon was developed when Oliver Crane crossed a Japanese melon and a California cantaloupe, creating a new melon that is more flavorful than either parent. Each year, Oliver Crane selected the biggest and best melons for next year’s seeds, genetically selecting for melons that flourished in the family’s adobe soil along Petaluma Hill and Crane Canyon roads. Other growers produce Crane melons, too, but the Cranes consider those melons inferior imposters. “The Crane melon was developed by my great, great grandfather, Oliver Crane, to be grown on this property in the adobe soil and dry farmed. This ranch has the climatic and soil conditions where the Crane melon, through genetic selection, attains its ultimate flavor and texture,” said Jennifer Crane, who started working in the Crane Melon Barn when she was four years old. A wine grape grower too, Crane said what makes their Crane melons so much better is the terroir, a French term for the special combination of soil, climate and farming techniques that allow a food crop, whether wine grapes or Crane melons, to achieve their ultimate flavors. Crane fumes when she spots what she considers fake Crane melons. “I can spot a melon a mile away that wasn’t grown here on the Crane Ranch. They don’t look or taste anything like a true Crane melon,” said Crane. “It’s frustrating when people raise and market melons under our name.” The courts decided many years ago that the Crane melon had become the generic name of the melon developed by the Crane family. The legal ruling cleared the way for melons not grown by Crane family members to be called a Crane melon. So, increasingly farm stands and grocery stores are selling Crane melons raised by other growers. Jennifer Crane compares a true Crane melon, grown by Cranes on Crane land, to an

Jennifer Crane displaying a sweet Crane Melon. 22

The Cranes take the smaller crop in stride, knowing full well the vagaries of farming and the impact that Mother Nature has on the size and quality of crops. Like all farmers, they hope next year will be better. The Cranes plant 35 acres of their 142 acre ranch to Crane melons, producing hay on the remaining farmland. The Cranes also have planted five acres of pinot noir wine grapes on the family land, selling grapes from what they call Chester’s Vineyard to winemaker David Noyes, formerly of Kunde Estate Winery. The vineyard is named for Jennifer’s cat. The grapes are a way to diversify the Crane farming operation so in years like this, when the melon crop is short, there will be another source of income. “It’s important to have diversity in agriculture,” said Crane. “That way all of your eggs aren’t in one basket if one crop fails for some reason.” Jennifer Crane, the only child of Richard and Cindy Crane, plans to be farming all of her life on the family land that has spanned three centuries under Crane ownership. She is passionate about carrying on the family’s ranching tradition on the adobe fields outside Santa Rosa. “This land is part of who I am, it’s my legacy,” said Crane. “I’m not going to be the one to sell the land after 160 years so I can have a big bank account.” Crane Melon Barn 4935 Petaluma Hill Road Santa Rosa To find out when the barn will open call 795-6987 or e-mail, cranemelon@aol.com

authentic Louis Vuitton handbag, which faces competition from cheap knock-offs. “It’s a matter of quality and getting the real thing,” said Crane. Melon season is a busy time for the Cranes but they have friends and family who pitch and help. Jennifer Crane, who went to college in London, has a circle of close friends who live around the world but come to help during the melon season. It’s a pleasant break from their fast-paced urbane lives in big cities. “My friends love coming to Sonoma County and being part of our farming experience each fall,” said Jennifer Crane. Crane’s father, Richard Crane, who learned the secrets of Crane melon growing from his father, the late George Crane, said he’s seen much bigger-yielding melon crops in the family’s fields. This year is a disappointment because it takes as much work to grow a small crop as a big one. “We needed that extra eight to nine inches of rain that we didn’t get this year,” said Richard Crane, whose mechanical and artistic talents are evident on the grounds of the Crane Melon Barn. He specializes in a unique form of garden sculptures fashioned from scrap farm machinery and implements. Like their ancestors before them, Jennifer and Rick Crane produce melons that are dry-farmed, which means the vines aren’t irrigated during the growing season. The plants are watered just enough to get them started in the spring but then the Cranes depend on the heavy adobe soil to hold the moisture necessary to get the vines through harvest. It’s a farming method that works most years. But this year’s low rainfall didn’t provide the moisture to sustain a big crop. 23

October 2007

Rancher Joe Pozzi is Sonoma County Farm Bureauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Agriculturalist of the Year

Joe Pozzi, daughter Alex and their dog Sam. Photo by Veda Radke 24

ot long after fourth-generation rancher Joe Pozzi came home from agricultural college he realized it was not going to be ranching as usual on the coastal farmland where generations of his family had earned a living. It was 1984. Production costs were rising and commodity prices for lamb, wool and cattle – the ranching endeavors that had sustained generations before him – were flat or depressed. Times were changing and Pozzi realized he would have to change with them, or go broke. “It cost more to shear a sheep than the wool was worth,” said Pozzi, 45, who did not need an agricultural economics class to know that wouldn’t pencil out. He took a deep breath and rolled up his sleeves, realizing he would not only have to work harder but smarter if he wanted to survive in the business of ranching. Working smarter meant developing new specialty markets for the wool and livestock harvested from the coastal rangeland of Marin and Sonoma counties. Pozzi successfully made the transition, taking his lamb and wool beyond the commodity market. Today he is one of the proud survivors in the livestock industry and a respected agriculture leader in Sonoma and Marin counties. He runs 650 head of ewes and 120 head of Angus mother cows on more than 1,000 acres of coastal grazing land in Sonoma and Marin counties. Sonoma County Farm Bureau has selected Pozzi as the 2007 “Agriculturalist of the Year” for his innovative approach to livestock ranching and for his leadership in agriculture and natural resource conservation. He will receive the honor at Farm Bureau’s 90th annual dinner meeting on Oct. 26 at the DoubleTree Hotel in Rohnert Park. A man of the land, Pozzi epitomizes the new breed of American rancher, a collegeeducated entrepreneur who balances economic viability with environmental stewardship. A single father, Pozzi is assisted in his livestock ranching operations by his only child, daughter Alexandra Pozzi, a junior at El Molino High School. A top scholar and student leader, Alexandra, or “Alex” as she is known, participates in all aspects of the ranching enterprise from production to bookkeeping. As a trail blazer in livestock marketing, Pozzi has earned the respect and admiration of the agricultural industry. Over the years, Pozzi has been recognized as the Sonoma County Fair’s Outstanding Young Rancher and the North Bay Wool Growers’ Sheep Producer of the Year. In 1996 he won the National Environmental Stewardship Award and in 2006 the California Wool Growers’ Retailer Marketer Award. The awards recognize the remarkable skills of a rancher whose progressive attitude and can-do spirit is preserving a way-of-life on the coastal rangelands. Sheep ranching has been on a decline for decades in Sonoma and Marin counties because of predator problems, low prices and the shrinking acreage available for grazing. Pozzi, who buys lambs and wool from other growers who meet his quality standards, believes a good marketing program will help keep sheep grazing on coastal hills and, perhaps, even increase their numbers. “It’s my hope that by developing a more sustainable source of income sheep ranching can continue for many more generations on the coastal ranches in Sonoma and Marin counties,” said Pozzi. “The grazing land on the coast is ideal for sheep ranching and the perfect appellation for growing natural, grass-fed lamb.” Pozzi seized on every marketing opportunity that came his way, developing companies that would pay premium prices for his natural wool and grass-fed lamb. He’s also developing new niche markets for his cattle operation, adding increased value to the beef he sells. “Value-added” is his mantra. “It takes us from being price-takers to being price-setters,” said the rancher. Pozzi is the owner of Pure Grow Wool, which supplies wool to bedding companies in the United

States and Canada for mattresses, comforters and pillows. A lot of his wool is sold to the esteemed Pendleton Woolen Mills for the company’s signature blankets. Pure Grow Wool purchases wool from 65 select ranchers on the West Coast. “This program has gained national attention in the wool industry. The producers involved in this program receive a premium price for their product,” said Pozzi, who serves as a member of the National Wool Council and also on the sheep advisory board of the American Farm Bureau. Those committees keep him criss-crossing the country for meetings. In addition to Pure Grow Wool, Pozzi is a partner with Ritz Foods of Santa Rosa in a company called Sonoma Direct Lamb, which coordinates growing standards and marketing of lambs raised in Sonoma and Marin counties. The high-end, naturally-raised coastal lamb is sold to restaurants and retailers including Whole Foods throughout the San Francisco Bay Area. To make it to the Whole Foods’ meat case, the lamb must be raised under strict standards that embrace humane farming and land stewardship. “These lambs are raised without any antibiotics or hormones. They are raised on coastal grasses and are as natural as you can get,” said Pozzi. Pozzi is a keen observer of the markets for food and fiber. He’s taking advantage of the growing consumer trend of buying locally-produced food that is raised in a sustainable manner. It’s a trend that fits closely with his own personal beliefs about wisely using resources and maintaining a ranching culture on land he wants to see preserved. Forever. Like many of the consumers he serves, Pozzi doesn’t think it makes sense to waste fossil fuel shipping sheep and cattle to feed lots in across the state or country and then sending the meat back in refrigerated trucks for the retail markets. “I’m basing my business on reducing the carbon foot print of how these lambs and cattle are raised and, then, marketed.” said Pozzi. Pozzi has another job in addition to ranching. He is the district manager of the Gold Ridge Resource Conservation District. The District annually oversees more than $3 million in federal grants to assist western Sonoma County landowners in enhancing the natural resources on their properties while maintaining an economically viable ranching business. “The District works as a liaison between regulatory agencies and landowners to locally manage natural resources,” said Pozzi. Pozzi’s background as a rancher and dedicated conservationist has made him a voice of reason in the debate over grazing publicly-owned coastal lands. Pozzi’s professional approach in addressing this issue is changing the attitude long held by public agencies that all livestock grazing is bad for the land and native plants. The rancher said the question is not if the land should be grazed but how and when it should be grazed if the goal is to restore or maintain the land’s natural diversity. Increasingly in the academic world, said Pozzi, grazing is considered a basic tenet of plant system management and an accepted practice for land stewardship. Pozzi said ranchers who carefully manage their grazing land have preserved some of the North Coast’s most pristine native grasslands. He said while ranchers are concerned about the economic returns from their land they are conservationists, too. Pozzi said ranchers are mindful of taking care of their land because, ultimately, it’s the land that provides their livelihood. Some years, depending on Mother Nature and the market, it’s easier than others to making a living. “Livestock ranching is a challenging venture even in the best of years,” said Pozzi. “But it’s a way of life and a tradition that I want to uphold.”

November 2007

Sonoma County Farm Bureau Celebrates 90th Anniversary as the “Voice of Agriculture” Sonoma County Farm Bureau is celebrating its 90th anniversary, a major milestone that prompts reflection on the organization’s respected role in protecting the interests of farmers and keeping agriculture part of the county’s landscape and economy

or nearly a century, Farm Bureau has been the “Voice of Sonoma County Agriculture,” diligently working to keep the county’s $3 billion agricultural industry strong despite urban growth and the sweeping changes in culture, land-use and politics. The need for agricultural unity is even greater today because farmers represent a shrinking percentage of the county’s population. “Over the last 90 years, we have learned that by working together we can accomplish more than by working alone. This collective approach to problem solving, whether land use issues or burdensome regulations, has made Farm Bureau Sonoma County’s largest and most influential agricultural organization,” said Doug Beretta, a Santa Rosa dairy rancher who serves as president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Beretta is a tall, easy-going guy who represents the new face of American agriculture. He’s smart, hard-working and deeply connected to his family, business and community. He’s more environmentally aware and less adverse to risk than previous generations of farmers. He’s a leader for the times. At Farm Bureau, Beretta, 44, works on many fronts to keep agriculture part of the county’s economic and social fabric. He’s driven by his passion for farming and an Old World work ethic. “We have a rich agricultural heritage in Sonoma County that drives many of us to work overtime to preserve, protect and promote a farming industry that also is a way-of-life,” said Beretta, a fourth generation Sonoma County dairy farmer. “And no matter if you live

on a farm or not, it’s a way of life worth saving because agriculture maintains the quality of life for everyone in Sonoma County.” Farm Bureau’s 90th Anniversary is being celebrated in a number of ways this year. There have been proclamations from county officials and state legislators. For the first time in 50 years, Farm Bureau entered the Santa Rosa Rose Parade with a float commemorating the organization’s 90 years as the voice of agriculture. A special 32-page section in The Press Democrat provided a historical look at Farm Bureau and Sonoma County agriculture. Beretta is the 45th president in the 90-year history of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Like other Farm Bureau leaders before him, Beretta has a firm grasp on the agricultural issues of the day, which include farm labor and immigration reform, land-use, farmland protection and balancing environmental protection with best management farm production. The first meeting to organize the Sonoma County Farm Bureau was held in the fall of 1917 as farmers wrapped up the harvest. Sonoma County was a bustling farm region with thousands of family farmers producing apples, eggs, milk, prunes, wine grapes, hops and livestock on ranches from Cazadero to Two Rock and Bodega to Vineburg. The thriving farm economy had elevated Sonoma County to among the top 10 counties in the entire nation in agricultural production. Old farm families, like the Petersens, Denners and Cranes, have been Farm Bureau members since the organization was founded. “Farm Bureau is a necessity for farmers,” said Bill Petersen, 67, a former president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau and the third generation of his family to milk cows and grow hay on the family land. “Through the generations there have been so many issues that have faced the agricultural community. Farm Bureau has always been there to help us work together to solve the problems so we could stay in farming.” Bill Petersen was Farm Bureau president in 1977-78. Petersen’s uncle, the late Oscar Petersen, served as president of Farm Bureau from 1955-56, guiding the organization as its membership grappled with issues like low farm prices, high property taxes and labor shortages. Other members of the Petersen family have served on key committees at Farm Bureau, investing valuable time off the ranch to protect their farming interests so they could continue to grow crops and raise livestock down on the farm. There have been lots of changes on the Petersen Bros. Ranch over the last 90 years but membership in Farm Bureau is the continuing thread as the farm passed from one generation to the next. During the first half of the twentieth century - before television and leisure travel – Farm Bureau also served as the social center for farm families like the Petersens who lived in rural Sonoma County. At one time there were more than 30 Farm Bureau centers in Sonoma County, holding monthly meetings and potlucks in rural outposts like Annapolis and Occidental. The early Farm Bureau centers were designed as the “back-bone” of the county organization, which also met monthly, on a Saturday at the County Courthouse in downtown Santa Rosa. 26

The Farm Bureau centers could be organized if a minimum of 10 charter members would agree to elect their own director who would represent them on the county-wide board of directors. Today, most of the centers are gone. Directors are elected to the countywide board so they represent the different geographic areas and commodities of Sonoma County. Today, protecting local farms and ranches as well as educating the public about the source of their food are cornerstones of Farm Bureau’s goals. Farm Bureau is actively involved in a wide array of public policy issues that greatly affect the ability of farmers and ranchers to exist and sustain their operations. Agriculture is the most regulated of all the primary industry groups with some 65 different agencies affecting some type of agricultural policy. “Farm Bureau is currently working to help make the county general plan a policy document that can meet its many goals and keep agriculture a viable part of Sonoma County’s future,” said Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. “Whether the issue is water, land use, biotic resources, agricultural processing, agricultural tourism or transportation, all play an important and vital role to our industry.” McCorvey said Farm Bureau is actively working to provide cooperative conservation solutions to protecting salmon and California tiger salamander habitat as well as for other threatened and endangered species. Agriculture has been a leader in water conservation and a major participant in tertiary treated wastewater reuse projects to irrigate crops or for frost protection each spring. Farm Bureau also works closely with state and federal organizations in promoting conservation projects to protect our valuable resources and to provide education and support. “With a growing urban population, rural-urban conflicts do arise and when they do, often Farm Bureau is asked to help address these concerns and help educate the public about farming practices,” said McCorvey, noting that Farm Bureau was instrumental in creating the “right to farm ordinance” that serves to educate the public about farming practices. McCorvey said Farm Bureau strives to work closely with all groups, governmental agencies and industry groups to ensure that regulations are fair, reasonable and in the best interest of a majority of concerns. Farm Bureau has taken a proactive approach to many of the problems facing producers. Since the mid 1990’s, Farm Bureau’s nationally acclaimed animal resources management program has worked with livestock producers and regulatory agencies to address water quality concerns in Sonoma and Marin counties. Through cooperative education, water monitoring and an ombudsman program, tremendous advances have been attained to improve water quality. Through cooperative efforts with California Department of Fish & Game, North Coast and San Francisco Bay Area Regional Water Quality Control Boards, U.S. EPA, the Naturals Resources Conservation Service and three Resource Conservation Districts, the Farm Bureau has been a leader in addressing water quality issues and finding innovative solutions that improve our environment. Because of Sonoma County’s urban growth over the last three decades, protecting farm land has been a top priority for Farm Bureau. “We have supported urban growth boundaries and center city growth while being understanding of the growing pains of our community,” said McCorvey. He said one of the recent landmark projects began in 2001 when Farm Bureau joined with representatives from the Greenbelt Alliance, Sierra Club, other environmental groups and agricultural organizations to assess Sonoma County’s land use history. After two years of analysis, the groups released a report titled, “Preventing Sprawl:

Farmers and Environmentalists Working Together.” The final report stated Sonoma County has done a good job of developing and managing land uses and has been a leader in creating programs like the Agricultural Preservation and Open Space District to achieve farm land protection. 27

December 2007

Local Farms Provide Fresh Christmas Trees for The Holidays A

fter 45 years of growing Christmas trees, Elaine and Del Davis of Sebastopol know precisely what it takes to produce the perfect evergreen that many Sonoma County families will anchor in their living rooms this holiday season. But, often, no matter how much nurturing, irrigating, fertilizing and shearing a grower does, the tree is far from perfect, developing into a spindly, scrawny, rag-tag specimen – the kind of Christmas tree that Charlie Brown would love. In the trade, these horticultural misfits are described as “trees with character” and every grower has them. That’s why Elaine Davis, a spry, no-nonsense grandmother, spends two months putting a price tag on each tree at her 10-acre Davis Christmas Tree Farm on Vine Hill Road. Elaine fully acknowledges that not all trees are created equal and should be priced accordingly. Every tree is a decision and, over the course of eight weeks in October and November, Elaine makes thousands of decisions as she ponders the yuletide appeal of Douglas firs, Bishop pines or the dozen other tree varieties she grows with tender loving care. This year, the price tags she has carefully hung range from $1.69 for the most forlorn looking tree to $305 for a magnificent specimen that would be right at home in the ballroom of a San Francisco hotel. “It’s like an Easter egg hunt with dollar signs,” said Elaine Davis, who believes the varied pricing gives customers an option. She said tree hunters down on their luck are likely to find a tree “with character” that they can afford. “There are people out there who are financially pinched who can get a Christmas tree for under $10,” said Elaine. “On the other hand, we have $300 trees for the person who wants the perfect tree and has the money.” Many of her biggest and best trees are cut and delivered around Thanksgiving to Sonoma County wineries, restaurants and hotels for their holiday decorating. She supplies trees to wineries such as Kendall-Jackson and Korbel. The Tides Restaurant in Bodega Bay buys a number of trees, spreading yuletide cheer throughout the restaurant and even putting a decorated tree on the dock. Even though she will sell trees from $1.69 to $305, Elaine said the 2,000 to 3,000 trees she expects to sell this year will average between $38 and $42. Elaine and Del Davis are among the 16 Christmas tree growers left in Sonoma County, a business that has been dwindling for decades because of many factors including the high cost of land. Over the last decade there has been a big drop in Christmas tree production at the choose-and-cut farms, according to crop reports compiled by the Sonoma County Agricultural Commissioner’s Office. In 1998, according to reports, there were 16,000 trees cut and sold from Sonoma County farms. In 2006, the county’s tree farmers sold 9,000 trees, a 43 percent decrease in a decade. Kriss and Carol Mungle, owners of Little Hills Christmas Tree Farm and Liberty Christmas Tree Farm, both in Petaluma, are among the other long-time tree growers and industry survivors.

Del and Elaine Davis at their farm in Sebastopol. 28

of the people who bought fake firs five or six years ago, are coming back to the smell and freshness of the real thing. “People figured they’ve gotten their money’s worth out of the artificial tree and want a real Christmas tree again,” said Elaine Davis, who believes this will be her best year ever if the weather is good. The weather is always the deciding factor for Christmas tree growers’ seasonal success. Families don’t want to trudge around a tree farm in pouring rain. Instead, they opt for a tree lot a paved parking in town. Kriss Mungle said tree growers continue educating people about the joys and benefits of the real deal. Unlike fake trees, said Mungle, live Christmas trees offer environmental and economic benefits in the communities where they are grown. “Unlike artificial trees, real Christmas trees are renewable and recyclable,” said Kriss Mungle, “Yet many people still perceive cutting trees down as bad for the environment and that’s not the case.” For more than 50 years in Sonoma County, Christmas tree farms have provided wooded open space and habitat for birds and wildlife. Christmas tree farms, established between apple orchards and vineyards or next to a cow pasture, also provide scenic and economic diversity to the county’s farmscape. Mungle said the Christmas trees are replanted each year, providing a continuous and sustainable supply of trees. During the four to six years or more it takes a Christmas tree to mature, the growing trees provide a number of benefits to the environment. Trees produce oxygen as they grow and at the same time filter dust and smog from the air. As trees develop, needles are shed naturally to enhance the soil. “Christmas trees are like other crops,” said Mungle. “They are meant to be harvested and because they are a farm crop, they are managed on a sustainable basis.”

Kriss Mungle, who has been growing Christmas trees for 22 years, said the shrinking number of Christmas tree growers in Sonoma County reflects the market for choose-andcut trees. He has no plans to increase his acreage and doesn’t believe either of his sons, Jon, 18, or James, 16, will take over the tree business. “I don’t think the market is there for expansion,” said Mungle, 50, who worked in the insurance business before becoming a tree farmer. He learned Christmas tree farming from his father-in-law Bob Larsen, one of the county’s original tree farmers and cofounder of Sonoma County Farm Trials. Thirty years ago, there were nearly 100 Christmas tree farms spread around the county, but mostly concentrated in the hills of Sebastopol and Petaluma. For many families, it was a holiday tradition to pack up the kids and a thermos of hot chocolate and trek around a farm for the perfect tree. The market for these choose-and-cut trees has been declining because of changing lifestyles and competition from artificial trees and cheap trees grown in Oregon. Then, too, many of the Sonoma County tree farms have been converted to grapes or houses. Mungle said the heavy demands on a family’s time because of soccer games, piano lessons or other planned activities have taken a toll on the search for the Christmas tree. People would like to venture out to hunt for a tree but say they don’t have the time. “Some families don’t take the time anymore to go out and hunt for Christmas tree because they say they are too busy. That’s a shame,” said Mungle. “They go to a tree lot in town because it’s easier and faster. They are missing a valuable family experience. I wonder if these families even eat dinner together.” Elaine Davis said many of those who go into the tree business burn-out because it’s more work than they expected. She said industry statistics show that only one in 10 people who start a Christmas tree farm will stay in business. “Many of those who got into this business thought you just had to plant the trees, lay back and watch the money roll in,” said Elaine. “It doesn’t work that way. There’s work all year long to produce the big, beautiful and healthy trees that customers want.” Elaine and Del Davis have won many first place and champion awards for their trees at the California Christmas Tree Growers show. This year, they won first place in the Douglas Fir, Bishop Pine and Spruce categories. The other reason for the decline in Christmas tree farms is that many of the original growers who started in the 1960’s and 1970’s are reaching retirement age and there’s no one to take over. In fact, Elaine and Del Davis are hoping that this will be their last year as Christmas tree farmers. Del Davis suffered a heart attack in November and is looking to slow down. Next March, the Davises plan to put their farm up for sale, ending a farming career in Sonoma County that spans nearly a half century. It’s unlikely that the new buyer will continue the Christmas tree farm. The rural property is coveted for wine grapes or for home sites. If the property sells, Elaine and Del Davis will permanently relocate to Texas where they have family. The Davises have already purchased a home and investment property in Texas. Elaine Davis said she won’t miss being dead tired by the time Christmas day arrives. From Thanksgiving to Christmas, she’s working daylight to dark selling trees, coordinating her workers and dealing with customers. “I like every phase of the Christmas tree farming business to a point….but by the time Christmas comes I’ve had it,” she said. Both the Davises and Kriss Mungle say that the tide may be turning on artificial trees, which have taken a huge chunk of Christmas tree sales in recent years. They said many 29

January 2008

Mickelson Family Named California’s Top Purebred Cattle Producer

The Mickelson Family of Santa Rosa works together to run 300 head of registered Hereford cattle on ranches in Sonoma County. Family, left to right, Marcia Kunde Mickelson, son Bobby Mickelson, Jim Mickelson and daughter Jamie Mickelson. Photo by Veda Radke

hen the Mickelson family – Jim, wife Marcia and their children Bobby and Jamie – gather at the dinner table each evening there are passionate, prolonged discussions about the right bulls to mate with prized cows in the family’s Hereford herd. Between bites of roast beef and green beans, the Mickelsons analyze and debate bulls

and bloodlines in their quest to produce Herford cattle that win in the show ring and perform on the range. With 150 head of registered mother cows, the Mickelsons have plenty of match-making to plot during the dinner hour. “A lot of healthy discussions have started over our dinner table as to what bulls we will be mating our cows to. Everyone in the family has an opinion and expresses it 30

passionately,” said Jim Mickelson, who finds it rewarding to have his family working together on a common goal. Everyone in this close-knit family is focused on producing the best Herefords in California and beyond. The Mickelsons, owners of Sonoma Mountain Herefords, are on the right track in their goal to breed top-flight Herefords, the classic white faced cattle that evoke images of John Wayne and the Old West. Sonoma Mountain Herefords is the recipient of the California Beef Cattle Improvement Association’s “Seedstock Producer of the Year” Award for 2007. The award annually recognizes a California purebred cattle breeder who uses objective measurements for evaluating beef cattle and, then, uses the measurement scores for genetic selection in their cattle breeding operation. The award also recognizes the Mickelsons’ significant contributions to the beef industry and the California Beef Cattle Improvement Association, which is affiliated with the California Cattlemen’s Association. It’s the first time since the “Seedstock Producer of the Year Award” began in 1972 that it has been awarded to a cattle breeder from Sonoma County, attesting to the strong breeding program the Mickelsons have implemented and their rise in the leadership of the state’s cattle industry. “The Sonoma Mountain Hereford Ranch is a very family oriented operation. The Mickelsons are intently focused on their customer, the commercial producer. They apply a variety of breeding methods and tools to produce cattle that satisfy their customers’ requirements,” said Terry R. Jochim, president of the California Beef Cattle Improvement Association and managing partner of the Dusty Trail Ranch in Grass Valley. Jochim said the Mickelsons are breeding modern-day cattle with the conformation and performance data desired by today’s commercial cattle ranchers. “The performance characteristics and traits of Sonoma Mountain Hereford’s cattle are designed to meet functional requirements for a variety of cattle-production environments and commercial programs,” added Jochim, “In addition the family has a strong commitment to community involvement.” Jim and Marcia Mickelson said it was their children’s unfettered enthusiasm and passion for raising cattle that brought the family back into the cattle breeding business. Marcia Mickelson, a member of the Kunde family from Glen Ellen, grew up raising Hereford cattle and showing at local fairs. Marcia’s father, Bob Kunde, 80, started raising Hereford cattle more than 50 years ago, becoming an important figure in the state’s cattle industry. For decades, Bob Kunde and his wife Leslie were active in the beef cattle industry and Hereford breed associations. The Kundes, known for their hospitality, hosted legendary production sales on their Glen Ellen ranch that brought cattlemen from throughout the West to bid on their bulls and heifers. When Bob and Leslie retired from cattle ranching, the Mickelsons bought the family herd, continuing the cattle breeding operation into the third generation. The move to the third generation would not have happened if it weren’t for the keen interest that Bobby and Jamie had for breeding, raising and showing cattle. “What started as a small 4-H project for our children has grown into size able herds for both Bobby and Jamie,” said Jim Michelson, “Raising cattle has become a wonderful adventure and passion for all four of us, not only from the production side but the show side as well.” Jim and Marcia Mickelson both have careers in different areas and in different parts of the county. Jim is the managing partner of Jerry and Don’s Yager Pump & Well in Petaluma. Marcia handles marketing and public relations at her family’s Kunde Estate Winery in Glen Ellen. While Jim and Marcia tend to their day jobs, Bobby and Jamie tend to the cattle.

Both of the Mickelson children want beef cattle in their future. Bobby, 20, is an agriculture student at Santa Rosa Junior College, and Jamie, 18, is a senior at Montgomery High School. Bobby will continue his agricultural education next year at California State University, Chico. Jamie plans to study agriculture marketing at Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo. Of the nine bulls the Mickelsons are taking to the annual Red Bluff Bull Sale this month, five of them belong to Bobby and Jamie, who have become experts at fitting and grooming their cattle for shows and sales. Many of the Mickelsons’ best cows were purchased by Bobby and Jamie with profits from the steers they raised and sold at the Sonoma County Fair’s Junior Livestock Auction. “The kids have some of the nicest cows in our herd,” said Jim Mickelson. In addition to the 150 cows, the Mickelsons have 50 recipient females used in their embryo transfer program. With calves, replacement heifers and young bulls, the Mickelsons have more than 300 head of cattle on their ranches most of the year. The family’s goal is to gradually to increase the herd size to 300 to 400 registered mother cows, developing a ranching operation that is financially sustainable for the longterm. The herd runs in three locations -- the historic Kunde Ranch in Glen Ellen, the Hill Ranch on Highway 12 between Santa Rosa and Kenwood and a 100 acre ranch in Bennett Valley. On the Kunde Ranch, cattle graze the rocky, steep mountains not planted to wine grapes. Manure from the cattle is used to produce compost for the Kunde family’s sustainably-farmed vineyards. The Mickelsons’ cows calve in the spring and fall, which allows them to capitalize on different ages of bulls for their buyers. The Mickelsons sell most of their bulls – 35 head in 2007 – at their “Next Generation Sale” held jointly with Steve Lambert at his ranch in Oroville. Lambert, the son of Marie and the late Stuart Lambert, grew up in Sonoma and, like the Mickelsons, is the next generation of his family to carry on the cattle ranching tradition. Lambert raises Hereford and Angus cattle. The selection from Lambert and the Mickelsons offers commercial cattle ranchers a “one stop shop” for bulls. Sonoma Mountain uses the HerdMaster computer program, allowing them a direct link to the American Hereford Association in Kansas City, Mo. All registrations are done online, as well as submissions of performance data. Sixty percent of the calf crop is sired by A1 sires and 17 percent are produced through embryo transfer. The Mickelsons select sires based on conformation, EPDs and ultrasound data. Replacement females are selected based on performance. The Mickelsons are involved in community, agricultural and cattle organizations. They are active in the American Hereford and California-Nevada Hereford Associations. Jim and Marcia have served as advisers to the California-Nevada Junior Hereford Association. Jim is a director and past president of the Sonoma-Marin Fair in Petaluma and has been active in the Petaluma Rotary Club, The California Groundwater Association and Giant Steps Therapeutic Equestrian Center. Marcia serves on the National Hereford Youth Foundation Board, Santa Rosa Junior College Ag Trust and is the beef leader for the Bennett Valley 4-H Club. Bobby and Jamie are active in the California-Nevada Junior Hereford Association and on the local, state, regional and national cattle show circuits. “We are all together in developing a family enterprise with the goal of only selling the very best Hereford cattle,” said Marcia Kunde.

February 2008

What’s for Dinner? Beef, Pork and Lamb From the Sonoma County Range

pilot project, called the Sonoma County Meat Buying Club, is being launched to create a local food system that lets county residents “taste the Sonoma range” by purchasing beef, lamb and pork raised by family farmers in Sonoma County. The project, under the direction of Sonoma County livestock adviser Stephanie Larson, is aimed at developing a niche market for small-scale livestock producers who often struggle to earn a profit. The goal is to increase income and marketing opportunities so that livestock production will continue to be a viable part of Sonoma County’s agricultural economy and ranching heritage. “It’s a way to foster agricultural diversity in a county dominated by wine grape production,” said Larson of the Sonoma County University of California Cooperative Extension. She said market channels are expanding for local farm products in response to increased demand from consumers concerned about the source and quality of their food. While it’s relatively easy to purchase Sonoma-grown fruits and vegetables, Larson said meat has been a challenge because of the complex infrastructure required for slaughtering, processing and marketing. “Many Sonoma County residents would like to buy from local livestock ranches that practice humane treatment and environmental stewardship,” said Larson. “They also want to support Sonoma County’s ranching landscapes and heritage. The Sonoma County Meat Buying Club will provide this opportunity.” Larson said the livestock will be naturally raised on Sonoma County rangelands. The animals receive no hormones or antibiotics. Larson said an announcement of the project by Press Democrat food columnist Michele Anna Jordan elicited more than 300 responses from interested consumers. She said during the one year pilot project, 100 people who sign on as customers will receive monthly deliveries of a mix of frozen meats – beef, lamb and pork in a variety of cuts. Presently there are only a handful of livestock producers involved in the pilot project but that number could significantly expand if the Meat Buying Club is successful. Ranchers Rick Olufs and Bill Barboni are supplying beef. Hog producers are Jube Begley and Ben Terry. Lamb is coming from sheep ranchers Joe Pozzi, Martin Albini and Chris Cornett. Olufs said the Meat Buying Club fits with his ranching philosophy, which is based on being a “one stop shop” for top quality, grain-fed beef. “My cattle are bred, born and butchered right here,” said Olufs who runs a family ranch near Windsor. “It’s the kind of meat production system that many consumers want today because it minimizes the carbon foot print. The cattle stay right here and aren’t shipped back and forth across the country from ranch to feed lot to slaughterhouse.” Olufs said this kind of operation requires more work but he’s willing to do it because he’s dedicated to producing healthy, wholesome meats consumed near where the cattle are raised. “Everyone wants to cut out the middleman but not everyone wants to do the middleman’s work,” said Olufs, who runs 25 mother cows, mostly Angus.

Swine breeder Ben Terry of Santa Rosa is one of the livestock ranchers participating in the Sonoma County Meat Buying Club. 32

During the first year, UCCE will hire a buying club coordinator to manage orders, answer member questions, coordinate with livestock producers, prepare newsletters and maintain websites. Sonoma Direct will process and package the meats and with the assistance of the club coordinator, assemble and deliver monthly orders. The orders won’t be all filet mignon and lamb loin chops. Each box will contain a standard mix of top cuts along with mid-range braising meats, ground meat and sausage. Each month there will be innovate recipes from Sonoma County chefs who will share their culinary secrets for delectable lamb shanks or pot roast like Grandma used to make. In addition to Larson, the project organizers are Marissa Guggiana of Sonoma Direct and Lauren Gwin, a research associate with the UCCE in Sonoma County. The Slow Food Russian River Leadership Council also is providing assistance. As part of the effort to put more local meat on dinner tables in Sonoma County, Larson is coordinating an event called “Range to Plate” on Sept. 6 at the Santa Rosa Junior College Shone Farm near Forestville. The festival will feature a range of chefs preparing a variety of Sonoma County meats, offering a real taste of the Sonoma County range. For Larson, who has dedicated her career to helping livestock ranchers stay on their land, the Sonoma County Meat Buying Club brings together many of the elements necessary for a sustainable livestock industry. “Ranchers, consumers and chefs are all coming together to showcase the healthy and wholesome meats that come from the rangelands in Sonoma County,” said Larson, “It brings everything full circle and helps to preserve this county’s ranching heritage.” For more information contact S.C. Livestock Adviser Stephanie Larson at 565-2621 or slarson@ucdavis.edu.

Larson believes a program like this could expand livestock production in Sonoma County considering the county has more than 500,000 acres of rangeland suitable for cattle and sheep grazing. This rangeland is an important resource for food production at a time when consumers are asking questions about the distance their food travels on its journey from ranch to plate. “A local food system model would make the Sonoma County livestock industry more sustainable by providing market outlets for ranchers,” said Larson. “The intent is to create a local meat production system that is self-sustaining in the long run and can serve as a model for other communities.” She said the project also fits with efforts to enhance Sonoma County’s reputation as California’s premier wine and food region where world-class wines are matched by an array of specialty and artisan farm products including Sonoma County beef, lamb and pork. The Sonoma County Meat Buying Club will function much like the popular Community Supported Agriculture programs in which customers receive a weekly box of produce from the county’s vegetable farms. Instead of weekly deliveries of turnips and lettuce, customers will receive a box of frozen meats. Members of the club will pick up their meat designated locations throughout Sonoma County. There will be three sizes of boxes, 7 pounds, 15 pounds and 25 pounds, with the price ranging from $55 to $175 a month. Larson said the University of California Cooperative Extension has partnered with Sonoma Direct, a local meat company with processing and distribution capacity, for the pilot project. After the one-year pilot program, Larson and the UCCE staff will recruit and train a county-based, non-profit organization to take over the meat-buying club.

March 2008

Bud’s Custom Meats Country Place Where Champions are Made

t’s no surprise to patrons of Bud’s Custom Meats in Penngrove that this little old country store is the place to buy blue-ribbon meats, no matter if it’s Sonoma County beef or something as exotic as alligator from Florida. Bud’s Custom Meats once again showed it has the right stuff by taking grand champion for its bacon and reserve champion for its bone-in-ham in statewide competition. The big wins for the family-owned Penngrove business were chalked up at the Cured and Processed Meats Championships, sponsored by the California Association of Meat Processors. The competition was held Feb. 22-24 in Sacramento. “The bacon and ham were both cured following a family recipe used by my Dad and now passed on to me,” said Matt Gamba, 47, who with his wife Natalie and daughter

Jennifer Marie Gamba, 11, runs the full-service slaughter and meat business. The retail store and meat processing facility are at the end of a long driveway tucked into the foothills along Petaluma Hill Road between Santa Rosa and Penngrove. Bud’s is one of those uniquely Sonoma County kind of places, a family business strongly linked to the land and closely connected to the county’s ranching heritage. Gamba feels fortunate to run a family business that puts him in contact with the people who keep Sonoma County real and grounded. I like my customers, especially the ranchers,” said Gamba. “They are people I can relate to because they work hard and make a real effort to give back to the community.” Gamba also gives back to the community and has been a big supporter of 4-H, FFA

and agriculture education through Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Bud’s Custom Meats is a silver business member of Farm Bureau and among the first to donate to fund-raising causes to keep agriculture part of the county’s landscape. The well-traveled driveway leading to Bud’s brings ranchers picking up beef, hunters delivering game to be cut and wrapped and the regular customers stocking up on Matt Gamba’s country style pork sausage, marinated tri-tips or the dozens of other meats offered at the country store. “We do it all from ranch slaughtering, to smoking, curing, cutting and wrapping. The retail store stocks a range of beef, pork, lamb, game and exotic meats like buffalo, alligator and rattlesnake,” said Gamba, who is the fourth generation of his family to proudly wear a butcher’s apron. His grandfather and great grandfather were both butchers in Italy. In 1975, Gamba’s father, Lloyd “Bud” Gamba started Bud’s Custom Meats, a business that has flourished despite the sweeping changes in Sonoma County where commuters outnumber cows. Once there were more than a dozen mobile slaughter operations but today Bud’s Custom Meats and J.T.’s Custom Slaughtering, owned by John and Karen Taylor, are the only ones left in Sonoma County. In addition to Sonoma County, Bud’s does custom slaughtering in Mendocino, Marin, Lake and Napa counties. “Our business has continued to grow year after year,” said Gamba, who started working in the family business while a student at Rancho Cotate High School. When his father owned and operated Bud’s, Matt Gamba worked in construction for a time but did the ranch slaughtering on weekends and in the evenings after his day job. Gamba has noticed a major change in the clientele during the last three decades. “Once the home-raised meat was a necessity, part of family efforts to put food on the table,” said Gamba. “Today, we are seeing wealthier people living on rural properties. They are interested in maintaining a sustainable lifestyle on their land. They want quality meat and raise their own because they want to know where their food comes from.” But Gamba said the return to sustainable living is the way he grew up during the days when everyone with a few acres kept a couple of steers, pigs or sheep to put meat in the freezer. “We always raised our own meat, produced vegetables in a big garden and kept a flock of chickens for eggs,” he said. It wasn’t called sustainable living back then but it was a simpler way of living. The busiest time of year for Bud’s Custom Meats is June through January when Gamba has up to nine employees. This is the season when market animals from the Sonoma County Fair, Lake County Fair and San Mateo County Fair arrive for cutting and and wrapping. It’s also the time of year when many ranch-raised animals are slaughtered for the freezer and hunters bring in their game. During the busy months, Bud’s mobile slaughter truck is working three to four days a week throughout the North Coast counties. In the shop, Matt Gamba keeps the meat saws humming and the grinding machines churning out his signature Italian sausages and specialties like garlic sausage and chorizo. “The expansion of our business is based on building quality into everything we do,” said Gamba. Bud’s Custom Meats, 7750 Petaluma Hill Road, Penngrove. Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Closed Sunday. 795-8402

Left: Matt Gamba of Bud’s Custom Meats won top prizes for his bacon and ham in statewide competition. 35

April 2008

Barlas is Big on Boer Goats Petaluma rancher Nancy Barlas is among the growing number of Boer Meat Goat producers in Sonoma County

etaluma rancher Nancy Barlas, who has the kinetic energy of a hummingbird, doesn’t have to count sheep at night to get to sleep. On those rare occasions when she is in bed wide awake, she rattles off the names of the goats in her herd…Sarah, Latte, Mr. Pennington to name just a few. “Every goat has a name and I know every one by name because I play with them from the time they pop out,’ said Barlas, 53, who tends 40 does on her Bailey Avenue ranch in north Petaluma. Barlas also is partners with Paul Lewis, owner of Bar Ale Inc., in Bar Lew, a small company that raises and markets top quality Boer Meat Goats as well as produces goat meat products like goat salami and goat sausage under the Buttn-Head brand. Barlas and Lewis, both deeply dedicated to agriculture and members of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, are among the growing number of Sonoma County ranchers raising meat goats, part of a trend across the United States. On ranches and farms throughout Sonoma County more and more meat goats, predominately Boer Goats from South Africa, are cropping up as landowners seek niche markets and alternative livestock ranching endeavors. They are finding strong demand for goat meat, or chevon, because of the San Francisco Bay Area’s growing ethnic population. Goat meat is a mainstay in many ethnic diets including the Latino, Asian, African and Middle Eastern populations. Boer goats - large, double-muscled animals first imported to Texas in the early 1990’s -are to the meat goat industry what imported cattle were to the beef industry. Boers, sporting long floppy hears like a Basset hound, are generally white with a reddish brown head and cape over their shoulders. They usually have a white blaze down the middle of their face. Lewis who has been around livestock all of his life is impressed with the Boer goats, which he said are a vast improvement over the dairy kid goats that constituted what passed for goat meat in “BB,” Before Boers. Lewis said the difference in yields between meat and dairy goat breeds is comparable to the difference between the rump roast of a Jersey and an Angus steer. Barlas, one of the region’s many part-time farmers, lives on the family ranch where she grew up as the daughter of the late Himmie and Rose Barlas, chicken ranchers and co-owners of Barlas Feeds. Nancy Barlas’s grandfather, Max Barlas, founder of Barlas Feeds, came to Petaluma area in the 1920’s, a member of the celebrated community of Jewish chicken ranchers who formed a close-knit agricultural and social community. Even the goats that will end up in Barlas’s Butt-N-Head goat sausage get a name for a short time. It’s all part of her philosophy of giving her goats the best life possible before they are slaughtered, or in today’s vernacular, “harvested.” “They are nurtured and lovingly cared for until they go to the final part of their life,” said Barlas, trim, wiry and with the work-worn hands of a farmworker. She loves her goats but said they have a purpose and that’s to provide meat high in protein but low in

calories, fat and cholesterol. But not all Barlas’s goats end up on the barbecue grill or stuffed into sausage skins. Some are sold as breeding animals, 4-H and FFA projects and as pets. Barlas has trained a couple of her goats to pull a cart. Her goat-pulled cart has been one of the attractions each December at Sebastopol’s Victorian Christmas Tree Farm, owned by Sally and Bob Parks. This time of year, Barlas’s goat numbers swell to nearly 100 head when all the kids are on the ground, butting their heads and climbing on rocks. Most of the kids are born in November, December and January. “The kidding season is very exciting, kind of like Christmas,” said Barlas, “Each morning I don’t know what I’m going to get until I come to the barn and find what has popped out.” Barlas, who raised lambs and steers as a 4-H club member, said goats have more personality than sheep and are as smart as a dog. She finds them endlessly entertaining, spending as much time as she can in the goat pasture before going off to her “real job” as a guardian-counselor at Sonoma County Juvenile Hall in Santa Rosa. She works the P.M. shift, which gives her mornings on her ranch and time to collaborate with business partner Paul Lewis, whose ranch is on Middle Two Rock. Barlas and Lewis work together building a market for their goat meat products. The partners like to say that their lean goat sausage is the “healthy way to eat sausage.” Goat meat is lower in calories and cholesterol than beef, pork and chicken. Horse, too, they say. Lewis, retired from day to day management of Bar Ale, spends much of his time on his Petaluma ranch, which is best described as an agrarian museum and animal park. In addition to the goats, there’s an exotic bird sanctuary and tractor museum. Ranch roads are lined with old farm equipment salvaged from ranches throughout the North Coast. There’s an Indian village being developed on a corner of the property. Meanwhile, Lewis, known for his right-wing politics and raucous sense of humor, is the best part of the ranch tour, providing interesting asides and homespun humor as he points out everything from a mechanical potato digger to his collection of Packard cars. Lewis’s goal is to breed “pretty” Boer goats. That’s because many of his goats end up as grazers on the two to four acre rural ranchettes owned by Young Urban Professionals, better known as Yuppies. These are folks who work weekdays in the city and want to spend their weekends gazing at their spread. They have the money to indulge themselves. “These are the café latte sipping hot tubers who want a beautiful scene when they look into their pasture,” said Lewis, who is breeding Boer goats that are post-card pretty as well as meaty.

Petaluma rancher Nancy Barlas is among the growing number of Boer Meat Goat producers in Sonoma County. Boer goats, originally from South Africa, produce meat lower in fat and cholesterol than beef, lamb and pork. 37

May 2008

Farm Bureau’s Ag Days Brings the Farm To Town Buzz Bozzini of Double Tree Ranch in Sebastopol teaches kids roping at Farm Bureau’s Ag Days held April 9 and 10 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds

eyserville rancher Dick Dilworth, who proudly paraded his matched pair of mules for thousands of kids, best captures the sentiment of those who join with Sonoma County Farm Bureau each year to stage Ag Days: “I do it for the kids.” Like many ranchers, Dilworth believes it’s important for youngsters, far removed from the farm, to understand that agriculture not only drives the economy but defines Sonoma County’s landscape and lifestyle. He said it’s important for the agricultural industry to educate the next generation of voters about the farms and ranches that generate more than $3 billion in revenue and cover more than 500,000 of the county’s one million acres. “The way the world is going, this may be the last time in these kids’ lives that they will have the chance to pet a mule or ride in a wagon pulled by horses. Those are experiences every kid should have,” said Dilworth, who also participated in the Ag Days Parade on April 9. Sixty kindergarten kids from Brook Hill School rode in horsedrawn wagons to Ag Days at the fairgrounds. Ag Days, held on April 9 and 10 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds, is a spring tradition in Sonoma County, a time when the county’s agriculture industry brings a taste of farm life to town so thousands of school children can learn more about the pastures, orchards and vineyards that unfold where city streets end. Sonoma County Farm Bureau, which annually sponsors Ag Days, proclaimed this year’s event the biggest ever in the 28 years it’s been held. There were nearly 5,000 school kids, 300 teachers and 1,000 parents, a total of more than 6,000 people, attending the two-day event. There were farm animal exhibits, sheep shearing demonstrations, a logging mill, hay maze, tractors and many other exhibits and demonstrations related to the county’s farming industry. Kids munched on apples and sampled cheese and milk produced by Sonoma County cows. “Ag Days is a unique opportunity where we can educate children, parents and teachers all together about the importance of agriculture to their lives and to the community,” said Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Ag Days encourages kids to see, smell and touch agriculture, whether it’s squeezing wool or cuddling a piglet. The only admonition for kids is “please touch the animals.” “It’s just so great to watch the kids touching calves, climbing hay bales and getting on tractors without someone screaming at them to get off or don’t touch. We encourage touching because that’s the kind of experience we had as children growing up on a ranch. It’s a way for kids to connect with agriculture and natural environment,” said Bodega cattle rancher Walt Ryan, chairman of Farm Bureau’s Agriculture Education Committee. Farm Bureau strives to make the exhibits interesting and interactive. Ryan arranged for a portable logging mill operation to be at this year’s Ag Days. Mill operator Merle Reuser of Santa Rosa showed how giant logs are turned into lumber. Reuser allowed some older kids to run the saw mill. Debbie Cesaretti, a first grade teacher at Apple Blossom School in Sebastopol, has been bringing her students to Ag Days for the last 12 years. She said it’s a valuable experience for the children, no matter if they live on a farm or in town. “We have many students at Apple Blossom who have parents who own a farm or ranch or work in an agricultural industry in Sonoma County. Ag Days showcases Sonoma County’s proud farming heritage, which makes students aware and respectful of agriculture,” said Cesaretti. Doug Beretta, a Santa Rosa dairy rancher and president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, has been participating in Ag Days for more than 20 years, bringing Jersey and Holstein calves for city kids to pet and pamper. Beretta tells the children about his life

as an organic dairy farmer and the joys and challenges of farming. “Ag Days are all about educating and connecting with kids,” said Beretta, “I look forward to meeting the kids and helping them gain a better understanding of agriculture and our farm practices. There are more urban residents than farmers in Sonoma County so agriculture’s future depends on voters who have an understanding and appreciation for the farming industry that keeps land in open space and maintains the rural character that makes Sonoma County such a special place.” Beretta said over the last two decades he has noticed a definite trend as Sonoma County’s human population grows: there are fewer kids coming to Ag Days who have a farm background. “Today even the parents coming to Ag Days have little connection with farms or the land. Twenty years there were some parents who had a direct link to a farm through parents and grandparents,” said Beretta. “Every year people in Sonoma County are further removed from the farm experience.” Teachers say Ag Days offers students a real life experience that re-enforces the lesson plans presented in the classroom about agriculture’s role in Sonoma County. It’s easier to understand that wool comes from a sheep after seeing a sheep being sheared and the wool laid out like a big fluffy blanket. “My students learned a lot about how important agriculture is to Sonoma County. It is obvious that the Farm Bureau put forth much time and effort for our students,” said Ed Locker, a second grade teacher at Biella Elementary School in Santa Rosa. Ag Days has grown into a major event to represent the many facets of Sonoma County agriculture. Farm Bureau sponsors Ag Days but many agriculture-related groups and individual ranchers support the event. Ranchers like Cheryl LaFranchi, Bobby and Jamie Mickelson, Nancy Barlas, Lynn Kracker and Rex and Kerry Williams bring livestock ranging from Angus cattle to Boer goats. Horse trainer Ray Lochert was among the trainers and stable owners who presented a show demonstrating what kids can do with horses. It was a way for kids to show other kids about the skills that can be learned at local stables. In addition to the Ag Days exhibits and demonstrations, Farm Bureau also sponsors a number of contests aimed at making children think about the source of their food and fiber. This year the theme of the contests was “Local Farms Keep Sonoma County Healthy.” Hundreds of school children entered the contests, which included categories for the best bookmark, poster, essay, scarecrow, mural and farm photograph. The winners in the various contests were recognized at Farm Bureau’s Ag Awards Dinner where nearly 900 prize-winning kids and their parents, teachers, principals and agriculture leaders came together to recognize the accomplishments of the youth entering the contests. Kenn Cunningham, an executive with Exchange Bank in Santa Rosa, was the master of ceremonies, encouraging the young people to appreciate how a thriving agricultural industry enhances the lifestyle of everyone living in Sonoma County.

“We have many students at Apple Blossom who have parents who own a farm or ranch or work in an agricultural industry in Sonoma County. Ag Days showcases Sonoma County’s proud farming heritage, which makes students aware and respectful of agriculture.” ~ Debbie Cesaretti 39

June 2008

Rex and Kerry Williams are Sonoma County Fairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ranchers of the Year

The Williams Family, Wyatt, Rex, Olivia and Kerry with their sheep. Photo by Susan Johnson 40

ex and Kerry Williams, the Sonoma County Fair’s top ranchers for 2008, are proving that you don’t have to marry or inherit a farm to be ranchers. But the Williams, who run 300 head of ewes on leased land, also are proving it takes passion, hard work and sheer determination to be ranchers in Sonoma County, particularly, when you start from scratch with no land or livestock. It’s a sacrifice many people would not make. For Rex and Kerry, first generation Sonoma County ranchers who live in Sebastopol, the long hours and hard work are the price for the rural life they are carving for themselves and children, Wyatt, 13, and Olivia, 5. “If we didn’t absolutely love what we do it would be stupid because of the hours we spend doing this,” said Rex, 42, who works full time as the maintenance supervisor at St. Francis Winery. Rex likes to say his day job helps support his ranching habit. “I leave after an eight hour shift at the winery, go home and start another eight hour shift with the sheep. But if you love what you do, it’s not work.” Kerry is just as passionate. She has given up her full-time job to build the family’s livestock business, developing direct markets for Williams Ranches Lamb. She prefers herding sheep to the stress of managing budgets and employees in an office environment. “For me, ranching is who I am,” said Kerry, formerly the executive director of the Sotoyome Resource Conservation District. “I am the happiest and most fulfilled when I am on the land and working with the livestock.” She has no regrets about giving up her office job, even when lambing in the freezing cold or bagging wool in the summer heat. She finds it rewarding to produce high-quality lamb that is gilding Sonoma County’s reputation as California’s premier wine and food region. “The worst day on the ranch is still better than sitting at a desk in the office,” said Kerry, who runs the family’s day-to-day sheep operation while Rex holds down his day job at the winery. She moves between leased ranches in Sebastopol and the Laguna de Santa Rosa on Llano Road to tend the 300 ewes. The Williams have a commercial flock of Dorsets and also raise purebred Dorset and Southdown sheep, which they show at fairs. Guard dogs watch over the flock, fending off predators. The Williams’ herding dogs help round up the sheep. Except for their dogs and part-time help from a high school agriculture student, the Williams do all of the work themselves. It’s Rex and Kerry’s dream to one day become full-time ranchers in Sonoma County and they are diligently working towards that lofty goal. They said they will have to double their ewe flock to 600 head to make it financially feasible. The Williams’ dedication to agriculture and their leadership on the county’s farm front captured the attention of the Sonoma County Fair, which named Rex and Kerry the Outstanding North Bay Ranchers for 2008. The Williams Family will be honored at the Sonoma County Fair’s Farmers Day program on Saturday, July 26 in the Chris Beck Arena. The fair runs July 22 through Aug. 4. “Ranchers like the Williams Family are maintaining the agricultural heritage of Sonoma County and the county fair,” said the fair’s board of directors in naming Rex and Kerry the county’s top ranchers. Rex and Kerry said the award means a lot to them because they are committed to being livestock ranchers in Sonoma County. “When I was an itty, bitty kid watching the awards presentation to the Outstanding Rancher at the Sonoma County Fair, I said to myself someday that will be me,” said Rex. “But I knew winning that award was like flying to the moon. When you look at the ranchers who have won the award before us, the list represents families who have been farming for generations on family land.” But in many ways, Rex and Kerry Williams of Sebastopol epitomize the modern

American farm family, hard-working people dedicated to family, land, livestock and community. They are not adverse to leasing land. They are more sensitive to environmental issues than previous generations of ranchers and they embrace marketing as a way to enhance the value of their Williams Ranch Lamb, which is sold throughout the San Francisco Bay Area. Their logo is “From Our Pastures to Your Table.” Rex and Kerry lease a house, land and barns from Phebe Sorensen, who with her late husband John once operated a Christmas tree farm on the property. The Sorensen Ranch is the base for the Williams’ livestock operation. Rex and Kerry are starting to market their lamb to select retail stores and this month the Williams Ranch Lamb will be in the meat counter at Skyhawk Village Market, the up-scale Santa Rosa food emporium owned by Mike Runyan. The Williams sell many of their lambs directly to consumers, eliminating the middleman so they can earn more money on each lamb going out the ranch gate. The Williams say developing and maintaining a marketing network requires more work but it’s a way to enhance their profits so they can financially survive as livestock ranchers in Sonoma County. “We live in an area where people really appreciate good food and want to be involved in how their food is produced and where it comes from. They support locally grown products. We look at the Bay Area’s unique commitment to quality food as an opportunity,” said Kerry. She has developed a website, www.williamsranches.com to reach consumers and tell the family’s story. Kerry said her biggest reward is hearing from satisfied consumers.“It just makes my day when someone calls to say our lamb was the best lamb they have ever tasted,” said Kerry. The Williams are always looking for the next opportunity and market niche to expand their business. They are seriously considering establishing a sheep dairy to produce sheep milk cheese, which is in high demand. Kerry said if the plan moves forward they will breed a line of milking sheep and lease an old cow dairy to convert to a milk barn for sheep. For now, Rex and Kerry are increasing their flock, expanding their markets and finding more land to graze. The Williams are what might be called grazers. They provide grazing services for privately owned wetland mitigation banks, a Santa Rosa wildlife preserve and along the grassy levies of the City of Santa Rosa’s waste water storage ponds. It would seem Rex and Kerry would have little time for anything else but they are active in the community, fairs and agricultural organizations. Both children are actively involved in 4-H, exhibiting sheep, meat goats and rabbits. The Williams family is a respected fixture at fairs, livestock shows and other events where the ranching community gathers. Rex is a veteran auctioneer who has provided his services as an auctioneer at the Sonoma County Fair Jr. Livestock auctions for 20 years as well as other 4-H and FFA events across the county. Rex and Kerry are both 4-H leaders and members of the Sonoma County Purebred Sheep Breeders Associations, California Wool Growers Association and Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Rex and Kerry said they are proud to be part of Sonoma County agriculture and plan to be ranching for the long haul. And beyond, said Rex. “In heaven I will be herding sheep and baling hay,” said Rex. “When I was an itty, bitty kid watching the awards presentation to the Outstanding Rancher at the Sonoma County Fair, I said to myself someday that will be me,” said Rex

July 2008

McIsaac Dairy of Novato is Sonoma County Fairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s North Bay Dairy of the Year

The McIsaac Family on the ranch in Novato. Pictured are, back row, Jim, Sue and son Jimbo McIsaac. Front row, son-in-law Chris, daughter Ellen and grandson Clayton Durrer and daughters Katie and Annie McIsaac. Photo by Brenda Hawkes 42

im and Sue McIsaac are continuing a dairy farming tradition that goes back 150 years and four generations in Marin County, strongly believing that ranching is still the good life despite the many challenges. The McIsaacs of Novato are proud producers in the Sonoma-Marin Dairy Belt, the rural stretch of the two-county region that produces much of the milk for the San Francisco Bay Area. Today, Jim and Sue McIsaac milk 350 Holstein cows on their leased 950 acre ranch along Novato Boulevard near the town of Novato. The Sonoma-Marin Dairy Belt has been home to the McIsaac family since 1860 when Jim McIsaac’s great grandfather, Neil McIsaac, emigrated from Nova Scotia to Nicasio in west Marin. Jim McIsaac’s mother’s ancestors, the Martinoia family, were dairy farmers from Switzerland who settled in Marin County in 1856. Jim McIsaac doesn’t say that dairy farming is in his blood but anyone who knows him will say it. His passion is evident. “We love what we do and can’t imagine doing anything else,” said McIsaac, who grew up working seven days a week, 365 days a year on the family dairy. The McIsaacs, who have four grown children, are accustomed to the long hours in a job that offers no overtime or paid holidays. Cows don’t stop producing milk on Christmas or Thanksgiving. “Even as a kid I loved the ranch and the cows. When my mother would pick me up at school I would ask her what Dad was doing on the ranch that day,” said McIsaac, who knew that a busted water pipe or sick cow could cause an interruption in the daily routine of feeding, milking and cleaning. But on a dairy farm most days are not routine. It’s this kind of dedication, plus an impressive record of milk production and agricultural leadership, that has put the McIsaac Dairy in the agricultural spotlight. The Sonoma County Fair selected the Jim and Sue McIsaac Dairy as the North Bay Dairy of the Year for 2008 and the recipient of the Edward J. Maddalena Memorial Trophy. The McIsaac family will be honored at the Sonoma County Fair’s Farmers Day Program on July 26 in the Chris Beck Arena. The North Bay Dairy of the Year Award is based on leadership in the dairy industry, herd management, milk production, ranch appearance and community service. The McIsaacs get top marks in all categories, particularly, milk production. The McIsaacs’ milk production has steadily increased over the decades, reaching levels that Jim McIsaac’s great grandfather would not have dreamed possible. Jim McIsaac said the higher productivity of his cows has helped maintain revenue margins in the face of staggering feed and hay costs. “Sometimes I can’t believe the milk production increases we’ve seen in cows but I believe it’s something that will continue to increase as we focus on breeding, feeding and management,” said McIsaac, who studied dairy science at Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo before returning to the family ranch. The McIsaacs, recognized for their environmental stewardship and the care they provide their cattle, sell their milk to Safeway, which markets its dairy products under the Lucerne brand. Since 1959, two generations of the McIsaac family have leased the scenic ranch from a family trust administered by Crawford Cooley, a well-known North Bay rancher and landowner. The well-maintained ranch is nestled in a small valley more than a mile from Novato Boulevard. It’s here that the McIsaacs raised their four children, Ellen, Katie, Jim Jr. and Annie. It’s a life defined by the cow culture that so closely ties families on the ranches spread through Sonoma and Marin counties. It’s a culture where daily conversations center on feed costs, milk prices and Holstein bloodlines. It’s a life involving fairs, 4-H and FFA. “Agriculture really is a small community in Sonoma and Marin counties and everyone is connected,” said Sue McIsaac, who was a 4-H leader for 20 years with the Tri-Valley

4-H Club. “We have so many friends because of the dairy business, fairs and 4-H.” All of the McIsaac children are either working off the ranch or going to school. Daughter Ellen is married to dairy rancher Chris Durrer of Modesto. Annie McIsaac, 20, the youngest of the children, will be a junior at Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo this fall. She is studying agriculture business with plans for a career in agricultural marketing. She is grateful for the way-of-life she had growing up on a family dairy. She was active in 4-H and served as District 3 Dairy Princess in 2006. “I used to get so mad because other kids would get to do things in town after school but I had to come home and help on the ranch,” said Annie. “Now, I’m glad I have the close connection to agriculture because it has made me the person I am today. I am so proud of not only the dairy industry but of agriculture in general.” This is a family where the work ethic is strong and part of their core value, much like it was for their pioneer dairy farming ancestors. Jim does his own artificial breeding in addition to the other chores. In addition to running the household, Sue does the dairy’s book work and joins her husband when he needs help feeding cows or moving and branding heifers. “I love working with the cows,” said Sue, who raised dairy cattle as a 4-H member and is now active in the North Bay Dairywomen. “Now that the kids are gone I’m doing more outside work on the ranch, which is something I really enjoy.” The McIsaacs’ survival in the dairy industry is testament to their passion, hard work and dedication to the lifestyle they have chosen. Thirty years ago there were more than 300 dairy farms in Sonoma and Marin counties. Today there are less than 100. Jim McIsaac said there were once seven dairies along Novato Boulevard. Today the McIsaacs, along with the Grossi and Leveroni dairies, are the only milk producers left on Novato Boulevard, which seems an unlikely street name for a 350 cow dairy. For their part, the McIsaacs plan to be milking cows and feeding calves for years to come, with the hope that one of their children may one day come back to take over the family milk business. “There are rewards along with the challenges. The biggest challenge I see right now is the cost of hay and grain, which just keeps going up,” said McIsaac, an avid hunter whose comfortable ranch house is filled with the mounted heads of the elk, big horned sheep and other game he has bagged. Hunting trips are his rewards for the hard work all year on the dairy. McIsaac said what he likes best about dairy ranching is that it’s never boring, always requiring him to use both brain and brawn. Each day he’s faced with problems that test his skills as a mechanic, veterinarian, financial planner, nutritionist and animal behaviorist. “Everyday I do something different and that keeps life very interesting,” said McIsaac, also part-time country philosopher.

“Everyday I do something different and that keeps life very interesting.” ~ Jim McIsaac

August 2008

4-H’ers From Sonoma and Sebastopol Top the Sonoma Fair’s Lamb and Goat Shows R

io Pagliaro, a nine-year-old member of the Green Valley 4-H Club, exhibited the Sonoma County Fair’s Supreme Grand Champion Market Lamb, a 130 pound Hampshire that brought $15 a pound on a bid from G & G Supermarket, one of the auction’s leading buyers. Wyatt Williams, 13, also a member of the Green Valley 4-H, exhibited the Grand Champion meat goat, receiving $17 a pound from Sunny Ashley of Vineyard Industry Products in Windsor. Wyatt received a total $1,500 for his Boer Meat goat. He is the son of Rex and Kerry Williams, who were named the Sonoma County Fair’s 2008 North Bay Ranchers of the Year. The gross sales total was $428,141 for the lambs, goats and rabbits sold at the first of the auctions held at the Sonoma County. Hogs, beef steers and poultry were sold the second week. Rio Pagliaro, a resident of Sonoma and the daughter of Tony and Rori Pagliaro, exhibited the best lamb of the more than 450 lambs entered in the fair’s highly competitive lamb show. “I wish I could pick two, but I can only pick one,” said lamb judge Gail Christian of Fort Worth, Texas when it came time to select the Supreme lamb. “But I think the little girl’s lamb is just a bit better.” And then Christian strode over to shake Rio’s hand, designating her speckled lamb as the fair’s Supreme Champion. Christian complimented the Sonoma County Fair on the quality of its lamb show and thanked the fair for its gracious hospitality during his three days of judging. Rio’s lamb beat out the grand champion FFA lamb shown by Kyle Pruett of Petaluma FFA.  Kyle is a senior at Petaluma High School and a veteran exhibitor in the fair’s sheep show. Rio earned a total $1,950 for a lamb that would have brought $126 if sold at a normal auction. But there is nothing normal about the prices the 4-H and FFA members received for the livestock sold at the fair. Businesses and individuals pay premium prices to reward the junior exhibitors for their work and to encourage them to continue in agriculture. The average price for the 452 lambs sold in the fair sale was $7.13 a pound, down slightly from last year’s $7.51 average. The support price for lambs on sale day was 97 cents a pound, which means that bidders on average paid seven times more than market for the lambs raised by junior exhibitors. G&G, which has been buying champion livestock at the fair for 33 years, spent $10,000 on champions and prize winning lambs at the fair’s lamb auction on July 24. “For more than 30 years we have been at the fair to support the kids who are involved in agriculture. We want to keep agriculture in Sonoma County and we believe the best way to do that is to give a boost to the young people who will take over the county’s farms and ranches,” said Bob Gong, an owner of G & G Supermarket, which has stores in Santa Rosa and Petaluma. Gong brought his grandchildren to help in the bidding for

Rio Pagliaro with her Supreme Champion Lamb in the auction ring at the Sonoma County Fair. Veteran auctioneers Tony Brazil, left, and Louis Ricci take bids. 4-H’ers Madeline and Toby Kiser of Sonoma help with the trophies. Photo by Veda Radke 44

fair lambs. Kyle Pruett’s Grand Champion FFA lamb was the second lamb to sell in the sale, bringing $20 a pound, $5 more a pound than the supreme champion lamb. Kyle’s lamb was purchased by Cameron & Cameron, a vineyard and ranch supply business in Fulton. “We are a fifth generation Sonoma County agriculture family and very connected to the farming community. We are here to financially support these young people because we want to see agriculture continue to be a strong presence in Sonoma County for generations to come,” said LeeAnn Cameron Reuter, a member of the family that owns and operates Cameron & Cameron. Victoria Hamilton, a member of the Green Valley 4-H, won Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s “Sonoma County Bred and Born Challenge” award for market lambs. Victoria’s Hampshire market lamb was the show’s highest placing lamb bred by a Sonoma County sheep producer and born on a county ranch. Victoria sold her lamb for $10 a pound, or a total of $1,500, on a bid from United Ag Products in Sebastopol. Victoria purchased her project lamb from Spring Creek Ranch in Forestville. Spring Creek Ranch is owned and operated by Steve and Diana Stornetta, who are Victoria’s grandparents. “This award is so meaningful to us because it recognizes the breeding program we have developed that is producing prize-winning project lambs for fairs,” said Diana Stornetta, the community leader and sheep project leader for the Green Valley 4-H Club. For winning first place in the Sonoma County Bred and Born Challenge, Victoria received a cash award and plaque from Farm Bureau, which sponsors the award to recognize top-quality breeders and to encourage junior exhibitors to purchase project lambs from Sonoma County sheep producers. The Sonoma County Grange Credit also sponsors cash for the bred and born challenge. The FFA Grand champion Goat was shown by Kyle Sepulveda, a member of Petaluma FFA. His goat was purchased by Les Schwab Tires of Sonoma County for $3.50 per pound. On the average, $7.07 per pound was bid on goats, with the goat auction total reaching $22,165.25. Champion Rabbit Meat Pen honors went to Elisha Houser of the Healdsburg 4-H Club. Her rabbits were purchased by Minuteman Press for $750. Theresa Hinrichs of Classic Cloverdale 4-H Club won the Reserve Champion Meat Pen award, her meat pen was purchased for $525 by attorney Tim Fitzpatrick. Average price bid on rabbits this year was $391.18 per pen. Total for the rabbit auction was $6,650. Buyers who purchase livestock raised by Sonoma County youth at the Fair can choose to keep the top-quality meat, resell it at market price, or donate the meat to any number of local nonprofit agencies. The difference between market price and the auction price frequently can be claimed as a charitable contribution; buyers are encouraged to check with their tax preparers. Proceeds from the auction typically are used by the youngsters to save for college or to invest in their next livestock project. In addition to purchasing and caring for their livestock, participating junior exhibitors are required to keep records of their purchase price, feed and other supplies—a real life exercise in the realities of farming.

Wyatt Williams of the Green Valley 4-H Club exhibited the Supreme Champion Meat Goat, which brought $17 a pound on a bid from Vineyard Industry Products of Windsor. Auctioneer Bruce Campbell, left, took the bid. Photo by Veda Radke 45

September 2008

Agriculture Leader Rich Kunde Inducted into Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame Rich Kunde, blessed with the cold eye of an accountant and the heart of a Sunday school teacher, is recognized as one of the pivotal figures in shaping and preserving Sonoma County agriculture

unde is a businessman, grape grower, benefactor and friend to agriculture, a man who has diligently soldiered on the county’s farm front for the last half century. Like a wise and cunning sheepdog, he has expertly guided and pushed to keep farms, ranches and vineyards part of Sonoma County’s landscape and economy. “Luther Burbank said Sonoma County is the chosen spot of all the earth and I couldn’t agree more,” said Kunde, 66, a member of a pioneer Sonoma County agricultural family. “A place as beautiful and agriculturally diverse as Sonoma County must be preserved forever. My mission has been to keep agriculture strong and the farm land in production for the generations to come.” When the Press Democrat, the region’s leading newspaper, went searching for the most influential Sonoma County people of the Twentieth Century, Kunde made the top 100 of the century. He rose to the top for his role in transforming Sonoma County to Wine Country. Kunde was in the company of such great leaders and visionaries as Luther Burbank, Frank Doyle, Jack London and Gaye LeBaron for his legacy in shaping Sonoma County during a century of remarkable change. The newspaper noted that Rich Kunde was the first to promote the European notion of appellations for the vineyards that were sprouting up throughout Sonoma County. The vineyards were taking the place of crops like prunes and apples that were no longer agriculturally viable. The triumph of grapes saved agriculture while placing Sonoma County on the world’s wine stage, right up there with Burgundy, Bordeaux and Tuscany. Kunde believed that appellations would secure Sonoma County’s reputation as a worldclass wine grape growing region and he vigorously campaigned to put them on the map. “Kunde led the charge to establish “appellations of origins,” the legal designations of the areas where a wine’s grape are grown. Appellations helped to identify the fine wines coming from Sonoma County, bolstering the prestige and price of grapes,” the newspaper wrote. The story described Kunde “as a leader in American viticulture and a strong voice for county agriculture.” The newspaper also recognized Kunde’ wife Saralee McClelland Kunde as a powerful force in agriculture and part of the dynamic Kunde duo. Rich and Saralee Kunde “emerged over the past decade as Wine Country’s most visible hosts, using their money, influence and leadership to promote Sonoma County’s image as an agricultural Eden.” Kunde’s profound legacy and lifetime of achievement are among the reasons the Sonoma County Farm Bureau has selected him for induction into the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame. As a member of the Hall of Fame, Kunde joins a revered group of agricultural leaders and pioneer ranchers who have been the guiding force in preserving, protecting and propelling Sonoma County’s $3 billion farming industry. Kunde joins his late brother Bob Kunde and other legendary leaders like Henry Trione, Angelo Sangiacomo, Larry Bertolini, Mitch Mulas and the late Gene Benedetti and James Groom in the Hall of Fame.

Kunde will be inducted into the Hall of Fame at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Annual Dinner and Awards Program on Oct. 25 at the Double Tree Hotel in Rohnert Park. The awards program is open to anyone who wants to join in honoring Kunde and his legacy of leadership and philanthropy. Honors galore are coming to Kunde. Next month he also will receive the 2008 Award of Distinction from the College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences, University of California, Davis. Kunde is being honored for his outstanding lifetime achievements as an alumnus of the University of California, Davis where he earned degrees in viticulture and horticulture. “Without the presence of Rich Kunde in Sonoma County is doubtful that we would be as well recognized for super premium wine quality as we are today,” said Rich Thomas, the retired director of viticulture at Santa Rosa Junior College. Thomas supported Sonoma County Farm Bureau in the nominating Kunde for the College of Agricultue’s Award of Distinction. The award will be presented during a reception at 5:30 p.m. Oct. 10 in Freeborn Hall on the university campus. The awards presentation coincides with the U.C. Davis Centennial Fall Festival, the week-long celebration will include the grand opening of the Robert Mondavi Institute for Wine and Food Science. Kunde said his work ethic and love for the land were instilled by his parents, the late Arthur “Big Boy” and Honey Kunde who raised Hereford cattle and cabernet sauvignon grapes at the family’s ancestral ranch near Glen Ellen in the Valley of the Moon. The ranch was settled in 1904 by Kunde’s grandfather. “My parents always taught us to put our heart into whatever we did,” said Kunde. “Then when I got to U.C. Davis, my professors said only work at what you really love to do.” Kunde took the advice to heart and put it to work during his long and successful career in agriculture. He notes that his ranch logo is a heart with a cow and vine, which represents the merger of his life with wife Saralee McClelland Kunde, who hailed from a dairy in Petaluma and remains a lover of all things bovine. “Saralee has made my life, she is the chosen woman,” said Kunde. “Her spirit and enthusiasm are tireless.” Today, Rich and Saralee Kunde, and their children Matt, 18, and Catie, 15, grow grapes (and a few dairy cattle) on more than 300 acres in the Russian River Valley, selling their premium grapes to dozens of top wineries. But for decades Richard Kunde owned and operated Sonoma Grapevines. In 1982, Kunde took a bankrupt Santa Rosa nursery and built it into the largest grapevine nursery in the United States. The nursery grew from nothing to annually producing up to 14 million vines during the boom years. The 14 million vines was enough to plant more than 20,000 acres of vineyards in one year alone. Kunde put his heart and soul into the nursery that supplied the cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and zinfandel vines used to carpet much of California during the explosive 46

Rich Kunde at his ranch, Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard near Windsor. Kunde is a longtime agriculture leader who will be inducted in Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame on Oct. 25. In cooperation with U.C. Davis, Kunde introduced the wine grape industry to newlydeveloped rootstocks and clones that elevated the stature of the state’s wine industry, putting California on the stage with the great wine regions of the world. As an industry leader, he worked with the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms to formalize America’s first Viticultural Appellation Area – the North Coast – and created regulations for establishing all future Viticultural Areas. “Richard Kunde is a man of integrity and strong character who has been a leader in the California wine grape industry for nearly a half century,” said Sonoma County Supervisor Paul Kelley, who represents the district where Rich and Saralee Kunde grow their grapes. “His legacy of achievement has made him one Sonoma County’s leading citizens.”

growth in vineyards over the last three decades. At the millennium, Kunde, concerned about health issues, started phasing out of the grapevine business and in 2002 sold the nursery that had been his life. “The hardest decision was selling the nursery but the day after it was sold I knew it was the right decision. I never looked back,” said Kunde. He regrets that Sonoma Grapevines did not thrive under the new ownership. The nursery eventually closed, ending a colorful chapter in the viticultural history of Sonoma County and California. “It was my dream for Sonoma Grapevines to continue on and on,” said Kunde. Kunde said his life and career have been greatly influenced by the University of California, Davis and the College of Agriculture and Environmental Sciences. During his half-century in the viticulture industry, Kunde collaborated with the university’s leading viticulturists, pathologists, entomologists and other scientists to improve the quality and profitability of California wine grapes. 47

October 2008

Steve Olson, a Remarkable Life Dedicated to Agriculture and Education Retired Educator and Agriculture Leader to be Honored on Nov. 8

Steve Olson, longtime educator and agriculture leader, at the Santa Rosa Junior College Shone Farm near Forestville. Olson was instrumental in acquiring the farm and transforming it into an agriculture learning center. or 40 years, Steve Olson has been a pivotal figure in North Coast education and agriculture, using one to enhance the other during a lifetime of enormous achievement. A man of quiet dignity and calm reserve, Olson has been associated with Santa Rosa Junior College since 1970 when he started as a plant science instructor in the college’s agriculture department. He quickly moved into administrative positions because of his management skills, keen intellect and professional demeanor.

When he retired from full-time duties at SRJC in 2007, Olson was Dean of Occupational Education and Economic Development. During his 37 year career at SRJC he also was Dean of Instruction, Educational Programs and Services on the Santa Rosa Campus and Vice President and Executive Dean of the college’s Petaluma Campus. Olson’s proud legacy is the Santa Rosa Junior College Shone Farm, a 360-acre diversified agricultural operation off Eastside Road in Forestville. Olson was instrumental 48

in acquiring the scenic Sonoma County property from the federal government and developing it into a valued, community resource for agricultural education and research. It’s a working farm where students gain valuable hands-on experience in everything from pruning grapevines to vaccinating cattle. “There is no question that the most influential individual with respect to the development of Shone Farm during the past 30 years has been Steve Olson,” said Robert Agrella, president of Santa Rosa Junior College. “Shortly after acquiring the farmland Steve was one of the key individuals who began to plan how the farm would be integrated into the agriculture curriculum for the college.” Recognizing the educational value of the farm, Olson focused his energy on garnering support from the agricultural community to make the farm the best it could be and a showcase of the county’s agricultural industry. With its vineyards, livestock pastures and forest land, the farm has become the venue for expanded courses in agriculture and natural resources. With more than 1,200 agriculture students, Santa Rosa Junior College has the largest and most widely respected agricultural program of any community college in California. “Steve emerged as the tireless leader and spokesperson for the expanded use of the farm,” said Agrella, noting that before his retirement Olson wrote and filed the annual government report required to substantiate the farm’s use for educational purposes. Olson’s roots run deep and wide in Sonoma County where he is actively involved in many agricultural and community organizations ranging from the Santa Rosa Rotary Club to the 4-H Foundation of Sonoma County. A Sonoma Country farm boy and proud of it, Olson was raised on a dairy and poultry ranch in Santa Rosa, becoming an active member of both the 4-H and FFA programs. His breadth of agricultural knowledge and his close ties to the farming industry have made him a respected leader in Sonoma County’s $3 billion dollar-a-year farming industry. “Steve is part of the rich fabric of Sonoma County, an elder statesman without being old,” said Terry Lindley, vice president for marketing at American AgCredit who serves on the board of trustees of Santa Rosa Junior College. “I can’t imagine where Sonoma County agriculture would be today without the contributions made by Steve Olson.” Lindley said no one in Sonoma County has been as dedicated to agriculture and education as Olson. He said Olson’s involvement in so many areas truly exemplifies his dedication to preserving Sonoma County’s rich agriculture heritage and way-of-life for generations to come. “I have always been amazed by his commitment to helping our local youth and his willingness to spend endless amounts of time mentoring them as they choose their career paths,” said Lindley. Olson has become such an effective agricultural leader because of his widespread involvement in the larger community. Through his work with the Santa Rosa Rotary Club and other civic groups, Olson has bridged the gap between the urban and rural sectors of Sonoma County. He has introduced city folks to farm life and invited farmers to break bread with business people, forging relationships that have provided benefits for both town and country. Olson’s diplomatic skills in urban-rural détente continue the legacy of his mentor, the late J. Wesley Jamison, a legendary figure in Sonoma County agriculture for much of the 20th Century. Jamison, who was Olson’s vocational agriculture instructor at Santa Rosa High School, wielded tremendous influence in the community. Like Olson, Jamison brought farmers and business people together to create a cultural awareness about the value of a thriving agricultural industry to Sonoma County’s landscape and economy. Integrity is Olson’s hallmark. It defines his work in education, his role as an agricultural

leader, family man and as a proud citizen of Sonoma County. “A fundamental characteristic often cited by those working with Steve is that he brings out the best in people by setting high personal standards for himself and those who work for him,” said Agrella. “His word is his bond and he will work tirelessly to achieve what it is that he promises to do.” Agrella said Olson is respected and valued for his work in agricultural education but his career at SRJC encompasses accomplishments in many other areas. He said Olson became a leader in the college’s study abroad programs and under his direction semesterlong programs for students were developed in England, France, Spain, and Italy. Olson diligently worked to expand SRJC course offerings to more than 50 cites throughout Sonoma County and developed an educational telecommunications program featuring online courses. “On several occasions during his career Steve also was called upon to take on special assignments,” said Agrella. “For example he assumed the roll of being the chief administrative officer at the Petaluma Campus on two separate occasions as searches were held for a permanent administrator.” Agrella said even in retirement Olson continues to work on special projects through the President’s Office. Olson is addressing the myriad of details necessary to complete the Warren G. Dutton Agriculture Pavilion. He also is working on other Shone Farm related activities including the development of an 8 million gallon reservoir in concert with the Town of Windsor, the G. K. Hardt Stable and the SRJC Shone Farm Foundation. “Steve Olson has been and continues to be a dedicated member of the college community,” said Agrella. “He continues to show his dedication for education in general, and agriculture education in particular, for the residents of Sonoma County.” Olson’s work ethic, leadership abilities and dedication to agriculture became evident early in his life. A star member of the Santa Rosa Chapter Future Farmers of America, Olson graduated from Santa Rosa High School in 1960. He attended Santa Rosa Junior College and in 1963 transferred to Fresno State University where he earned a bachelor of science degree in 1966. He was selected as the outstanding agronomy student of his graduating class. While an agriculture student at Fresno State, Olson was a member of the university’s livestock and dairy cattle judging teams, competing at contests throughout the United States. He was a member of the Alpha Gamma Rho Fraternity. Olson holds a teaching credential and Master of Arts Degree from the University of California, Davis. His first job as a vocational agriculture instructor was at Ferndale High School in Humboldt County. He taught at Ferndale for three years, leaving in 1970 to begin what would be a distinguished 37 year career at Santa Rosa Junior College. Olson has won many honors and accolades for his contributions and community service to agriculture, education and farm youth including the Santa Rosa Chamber of Commerce’s Agricultural Leadership Award and the Sonoma County Harvest Fair’s Friend of Agriculture Award. Olson recently received the Rotary Club’s highest honor, the Harold D. Bostock Lifetime of Service Award. Olson is one of only three people to receive the award in the 87-year history of the Santa Rosa Rotary Club. In the larger community, Olson is a member of the Sonoma County World Affairs Council and served as a member of the Sonoma County Task Force on Hunger.. He is a trustee of the Santa Rosa Junior College Shone Farm Foundation and the Sonoma County Farm Bureau Foundation. Olson and his wife Elaine have been married for 41 years. They have two daughters, Jenifer Cordova and Rebecca Conway, and six grandchildren. 49

November 2008

Rancher Ernie Ongaro Writes Book On The Brands of Sonoma And Marin Counties Sebastopol rancher Ernie Ongaro would have survived just fine in the Old West, riding the range, branding cattle and turning rawhide into leather crafts

Ernie Ongaro, who published a book on the brands of Sonoma and Marin Counties, poses with Belgian draft horses Annie and Classy at his Sebastopol ranch. Ongaro’s love for the Old West spurred him to research brands and write a book. Photo by Veda Radke

ngaro’s love for the Old West and all things cowboy are the reasons he has devoted his spare time over the last eight years researching the brands of Sonoma and Marin counties and the cowboy folklore behind those symbols of ranch life. Ongaro’s work has been compiled into a new book called “Brands of California – Sonoma and Marin Counties,” which lists and graphically illustrates every registered brand in the

two counties. Brands registered to everyone from football legend Joe Montana to wine baron Jess Jackson are illustrated in the 45-page book that chronicles the history of brands in California and Ongaro’s enduring love affair with the cowboy lifestyle. Ongaro, a skilled horseman, cowboy poet and leather artist, said it was his goal to preserve a slice of the rich agricultural history that is vanishing as urban development 50

and vineyards take over more and more of the land once devoted to cattle and horse ranches. Ongaro, who is 70, has witnessed vast changes in the landscape he calls home. Although he has lived in Sonoma County for the last 35 years, he was born in Marin County in 1938 when most of the land was still in the country and, as a boy, rode horses across unfenced back country. “The idea for the Brand Book started during the 25 years that I commuted from Sebastopol to San Anselmo in Marin County,” said Ongaro, whose family owns Ongaro & Sons Plumbing and Heating based in San Rafael. “I would take the back roads through Petaluma to get to work and, over the years, I noticed that dairies kept disappearing. When the dairies disappear the brands disappear.” The dairy landscape was indeed changing right before Ongaro’s watchful eyes. In the 1940’s there were nearly 2,000 cattle farms in Sonoma and Marin counties, many of them small, mom-and-pop operations with 12 to 20 cows. Today, there are fewer than 100 dairies in the two counties where the average herd size is now nearly 400 cows. When Ongaro turned over the family plumbing business to his sons and nephews in 2000, he launched his quest to create a book of the historic brands as well as the brands still in use today on ranches in Sonoma and Marin counties. There are hundreds of brands registered to Sonoma and Marin ranchers with names like Corda, DeBernardi, Barboni, McIsaac, Moreda and Gallagher. These ranching families are proud keepers of brands like the DD or 06. Like fences, brands are a good way to maintain good relations with neighboring ranchers. There is an old saying, “Trust Your Neighbors but Brand Your Cattle.” “To cattlemen steeped in tradition, your brand was your signature, and they were proud of that signature,” writes Dr. Gene Harlan, a large animal veterinarian in Sonoma County. Dr. Harlan, who has known Ongaro for 30 years, wrote the forward to the Brand Book. “In today’s world, animal identification is a popular subject, as it impacts animal health, animal trace-back, country of origin and public health,” writes Dr. Harlan. “As Ernie’s book proves, we have had animal identification for well over 200 years here in California.” Ongaro said he’s glad the book is finished but thoroughly enjoyed gathering the information and the places it took him. “My research took me all over the place including cowboy museums. It’s been a very interesting and fascinating journey,” said Ongaro, who with his wife Joan lives on a 63 acre ranch in Sebastopol where he pastures a couple of draft horses and a few head of beef cows. “When I turned 70 I got out of the cattle business,” said Ongaro, who has been a member of Sonoma County Farm Bureau for 35 years. He’s also involved in the North Coast Draft Horse and Mule Association, the Marin Historical Museum and Marin Italian Catholic Federation. Ongaro said brands are not unique to the West or even the United States. He said brands have been used as livestock identification in all countries and civilizations going back to 2000 BC. He said the brands burned on a cow or horse’s hind end could take on many forms. “The symbols could be numbers, letters or a combination of both,” Ongaro writes in the book. “Special characters or figures, such as a box, a slash in either direction, a bar or a rail – a long bar – were used. There were circles, half circles, half moons and quarter moons and the designs could be whatever one imaged.” Ongaro’s own brand is the Circle E, which he has proudly stamped on his cattle and horses as well as his signature leather craft.

Ernie Ongaro spent time over the last eight years researching brands like his family brand, the Circle E. Brands are a rancher’s signature and an enduring source of pride. While running the family plumbing business in Marin County, the Ongaro family also operated a cattle ranch. In 1950 the family bought a ranch in Sonoma County, adjacent to what is now Sugarloaf State Park near Kenwood. They raised Hereford cattle, eventually transitioning to Hereford-Angus crosses. When the cattle numbers grew, the family bought a larger ranch in Napa County, running up to 300 cows on the hillsides rising above the Napa Valley. The Napa ranch was sold in the 1970’s. The Ongaro family reduced the herd and bought the smaller ranch in Sebastopol where Ernie and Joan now reside. Ongaro’s earned his living from the plumbing business but his enduring lifelong passions have been ranching, riding, Western history, cowboy poetry and leather work. He not only repairs saddles, he crafts captivating leather artwork, which have won blue ribbons at the fair. Ongaro is a Renaissance Man plugged into the Old West. His dedication to a vanishing way-of-life has yielded a history of the brands in Sonoma and Marin counties. 51

December 2008

Healdsburg Rancher George Greeott Chalks Up 60 Years as Farm Bureau Member H

ealdsburg rancher George Greeott, who at 98 is as spry as a Bantam rooster, has been a member of Sonoma County Farm Bureau for 60 years, proudly holding the title of oldest and longest continuing member of the county’s largest agricultural organization. Just consider that Santa Rosa dairy rancher Doug Beretta, who is president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, was born in 1963 – 15 years after Greeott joined Farm Bureau in 1948. But as he approaches the century mark, most everything in Greeott’s long and fruitful life is now measured in half-centuries and beyond. He farmed fruit for 50 years and he’s worked and lived in the Chalk Hill Valley for 80 years – moving north from Santa Rosa where he was born on April 30, 1910. A farmer and gentleman, Greeott can’t imagine why anyone who owns land or farms in Sonoma County would not be a member of Farm Bureau. He said Farm Bureau represents the cooperative spirit of farmers working together to deal with common issues. “I joined Sonoma County Farm Bureau in 1948 and have been a dues-paying member ever since,” Greeott proudly states. “Throughout the years, Farm Bureau has always been there to represent the interests of the farmers and ranchers in Sonoma County.” Greeott is a Sonoma County institution – a farmer, inventor, wood carver, country artist, philanthropist and champion horseshoe pitcher. He loves nature, enjoys people and holds dear Sonoma County’s rich history and agricultural heritage. He is a patron of the Windsor Historical Museum, which will permanently house much of his collection when it opens next year. Museum officials consider Greeott a living link to Windsor’s past, a man who farmed the prune orchards and vineyards now planted with housing subdivisions. “George has a great mind, he’s Sonoma County’s Professor Gadget,” said Steve Lehmann, president of the Windsor Historical Society. “He is the kind of guy who goes to sleep each night thinking about the project he will undertake the next morning. His curiosity keeps him moving forward. He knows something about everything.’ Lehmann said that Greeott was well-suited to the challenges of farming, judiciously using his time bouncing along on the tractor to think of better ways of doing things. “He was always trying to improve his efficiency so he would have more time to do the work that needed to be done,” said Lehmann. Greeott’s advanced age and accumulated wisdom also make him somewhat of a rural philosopher, a respected earth elder. Many consider him the sage of the Chalk Hill Valley, the agricultural enclave between Windsor and Healdsburg where he started farming in 1928 on one of the many ranches owned by his father, John Greeott, an Italian immigrant who prospered in America. The family name is actually Griotti, but when Greeott’s father became a naturalized citizen the name was Anglicized to Greeott. George Greeott has worked and lived on Chalk Hill Road for 80 years, growing grapes and fruit crops for a half-century. When he started farming he used draft horses. Greeott is as familiar with Chalk Hill’s lay of the land as the curving lines on the palm 52

of his hand. “I was actually a fruit grower for 50 years,” said Greeott, whose eyes twinkle when he tells a story. “I like to tell my friends, just for fun, that I was a PGA member for 50 years too. I actually was, but I have never in my life swung a golf club. I raise Prunes, Grapes and Apples, the PGA.” It’s that kind of spunk and spirit that has made George Greeott a beloved icon in Sonoma County where he is known as much for his creative genius when it comes to inventing and designing as his farming know-how. He transforms pieces of water pipe and railroad spikes into whimsical pieces of art – kids on bicycles, a horse and rider and hundreds of other folk art creations. A born builder and inveterate tinkerer, he invented a fence tightening tool that was marketed throughout the country. “Greeott’s Grabber” became a mainstay on many farms and ranches. Most of his wood work and metal sculptures are done by hand, the old-fashioned way. “I don’t use mechanical tools if I can get around it,” said Greeott. “I use hand tools even if it takes me twice as long.” If he hadn’t become a farmer, Greeott likely would have studied to be a draftsman, a civil engineer or architect, using his creative and analytical mind to design buildings and bridges. But, he says, he loved farming and has no regrets that he spent most of his life working the land and matching wits with Mother Nature and the ubiquitous middleman. “I loved farming and what I did all those years. I think it’s because there are so many darn challenges to farming. Every day was a chance for me to learn something new, another day to figure out how to grow the best crops I could, develop a water system for irrigation or anything else to improve how I did things,” said Greeott, a widower. His wife Isabel Sicco Greeott died 12 years ago. He has three daughters, Beverly Sherne of Walnut Creek, Marlene Dew of Twin Falls, Idaho and Carol Keiser of Sonoma. He has eight grandchildren and eight great grandchildren. Hard work and dedication to his family and land have been Greeott’s hallmarks. Even though he no longer actively farms Prunes, Apples or Grapes, the PGA, he still works every day on his small ranch, cutting firewood or tending his garden and fruit trees. One day recently he was cleaning the gutters on the ranch style house he designed – even drawing the blueprints that passed county inspection. He did much of the house’s construction himself including the framing and cabinets. The large picture window in his living room frames Mount St. Helena. “I believe that a lot of my good luck is from hard work,” said Greeott. “I never was afraid of hard work. I had so much to do I tried to do everything I could so I wouldn’t have to hire it done, especially in The Depression. My goodness, I could hardly make a nickel anyway. That’s why I put on cows. I could do the cows before ranch work and after ranch work. So that meant 14 hours a day every day for quite a few years. I mean actually working time, not including lunchtime.” He tells of the time when he operated his prune dehydrator for 42 days straight, working days and most of the night to dry his fruit and the prunes produced by other ranchers from as far as Mendocino County. The night work on the dehydrator was hard, said Greeott, because “I didn’t have a chance to sleep enough. Up and down to test the prunes as they were drying, take them

out on time and then replace the ones you took out with others.” Greeott said the dairy cows provided an added source of income during The Depression but after 10 years of milking cows he came to the conclusion that he could not run a dairy and the orchards and vineyards at the same time. “The work was killing me. I was working 14 hours a day. I learned that cows and fruit don’t go together well,” said Greeott. “Of course I should have known that. I milked 10 cows and sold cream. Then I had to have pigs to drink the skim milk, so that was more work. I raised veal calves as well.” Greeott eventually sold the cows and replaced them with Corriedale sheep, which fit well with his fruit farming operation. “I had 75 ewes maximum, plus their lambs, so in a good year I’d have as many as 150 head before I sold the lambs,” said Greeott. When Greeott retired from active farming most of his 167 acre Chalk Hill Ranch, purchased by his father in 1928, was sold to attorney Fred Furth, the owner of Chalk Hill Estate Winery. The land formerly growing apples and prunes has been converted to premium vineyards as part of the Furth wine empire in the Chalk Hill Valley. Greeott kept 16 acres where he continues to make his home, still crafting his creations and collecting the arrowheads and other Indian artifacts that surface on his oak-studded property that is a haven for wild turkeys and other wildlife. Greeott was born in Santa Rosa on a ranch off Alpine Road where his father grew grapes and established the Alpine Winery, one of the early wineries in Sonoma County. The winery later moved to downtown Santa Rosa but closed during Prohibition. By then, John Greeott had established himself as a successful businessman and entrepreneur in early day Santa Rosa. John Greeott became a developer, building a number of buildings including the classic California Theater, which was razed for urban renewal in the 1970’s. Two of John Greeott’s buildings are still around, the old Topaz Room restaurant, now Flavor restaurant, and the building that his home to Gary Chu’s Chinese Restaurant. John Greeott’s success in developing commercial buildings gave him the financial resources to purchase ranches in Sonoma County. In addition to the Chalk Hill property, he also owned fruit orchards and vineyards on Olivet Road in west Santa Rosa. Most of that ranch was purchased by Cecil DeLoach and, today, is part of the DeLoach Winery. Greeott still has the old winemaking equipment from his family’s Alpine Winery. He wants future generations to know what farming and winemaking were like over the last 150 years. Most of his collection of farm implements, early-day winemaking equipment, wood carvings and metal art – along with his collection of Indian artifacts – will be donated to the Windsor Historical Museum. He also has pledged $100,000 to the museum, which is scheduled to open on Feb. 28. “Windsor is the only city in Sonoma County that doesn’t have a museum and there is so much agricultural history in Windsor,” said Greeott. Greeott will of course be there for the grand opening of the museum where a room in the old Hembree House will be dedicated to the George Greeott Collection. Greeott doesn’t drive anymore so leaves the ranch only occasionally. But that’s okay with him because he keeps busy doing the tasks necessary to maintain his home and ranch. “I don’t have the energy I used to have when I was younger,” said Greeott. “So I put my energy into keeping the whole place up.’

Left: George Greeott, a member of Sonoma County Farm Bureau for 60 years, takes a break by the reservoir at his scenic ranch on Chalk Hill Road in Healdsburg. Greeott grew prunes, apples and grapes for 50 years before retiring from active farming. Photo by Veda Radke 53

January 2009

James Family Cellars Crafting a Wine Legacy One Gold Medal At A Time Six years ago Jeff and Judy James of Cotati were among the North Coast growers who struggled to sell their grapes because of a cyclical glut that caused the wine grape market to collapse

Jeff and Judy James with their sons, Matt, left, and Robert own and operate James Family Cellars in Cotati. The James familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first release, a 2007 Pinot Noir from their Stony Point Vineyard, won a gold medal at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sonoma County Harvest Fair. Photo by Brenda Hawkes 54

t was one of those boom-and-bust cycles that have been part of the industry since the first wine grapes were planted in Sonoma County more than 150 years ago. Long-time grape growers were accustomed to the cycle, which occurs every eight to nine years as grape supplies increase relative to the demand for wine. But the Jameses, who had planted their vineyard four years earlier, were hit hard with the sobering realities of a depressed market. Undaunted, they plowed ahead. Fast forward to last fall’s Sonoma County Harvest Fair. The Jameses, now vintners as well as grape growers, are celebrating the gold medal they won for their 2007 Pinot Noir produced from grapes grown on the family vineyard. It was their first release and it scored a gold medal right out of the cellar The James family, of course, was jubilant. The gold medal reaffirmed their faith in their carefully-tended vineyard and its ability to produce world-class wines. From the start, the goal has been to offer a wine that reaches the pinnacle of what a pinot noir can be. “We knew we could grow good grapes and that good wine could be made from those grapes. The gold medal confirmed the evolution of our quest for quality,” said Jeff James, who works days as a senior financial adviser for Merrill Lynch in Santa Rosa. Jeff had been crushing his grapes to make homemade wine, which in previous years he had entered in the Amateur Wine Competition at the Harvest Fair. His homemade wines did well so he knew the family was on the right track in terms of producing quality grapes. Still, it was a night to celebrate when their gold medal was announced for the 2007 Pinot Noir from James Family Cellars. “The gold medal gave us a lot of attention all at once, it was attention we weren’t expecting so soon after releasing our first wine,” said Judy James, who works as director of community relations for Clover-Stornetta Farms in Petaluma. Previously, she was executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, an organization closely associated with her ranching family. Judy’s grandfather, the late Max Herrerias, a rancher in Sebastopol, served as president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau from 1947 to 1948. Both Jeff and Judy have deep agriculture roots and are members of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. They work on many fronts to preserve and promote Sonoma County’s $3 billion farming industry, believing that agriculture is the heart and soul of Sonoma County. Jeff and Judy, along with their sons, Robert Van Winkle, 20, and Matt James, 12, are the proprietors of James Family Cellars and the six-acre Stony Point Vineyard near Cotati. Everyone has a role and title – Jeff and Judy are the owners and managers. Robert, a student at Santa Rosa Junior College, is vice president of marketing. Matt, a seventh grader at Creekside Middle School, is vice president of public relations. The James Family Cellars wine is made at Joe and Tracy Dutton of Dutton Estate Winery in Sebastopol by Dutton winemaker Mat Gustafson. The Jameses made 211 cases of the 2007 Pinot Noir. The wine, which sells for $34.99 a bottle, is available at a growing roster of local retailers and restaurants throughout Sonoma County. They produced 500 cases from this year’s harvest and plan to increase production as sales grow. The Jameses sell the rest of their pinot noir grapes to Schramsberg Vineyards in Calistoga. The grapes are used to make top-of-the-line sparkling wine. The James family’s goal is to sell their wine direct to consumers through their Web site, www.jamesfamilycellars.com. They have established a Wine Club and the whole family focuses on marketing the wine from what, essentially, is a 21st century version of the Sonoma County family farm. The Jameses planted their pinot noir vineyard in 1998 as a farming endeavor that would bring the whole family together while building an agricultural business that their sons could one day own and operate. The vineyard and wine business continues as a labor of love that focuses on the goal of building a family legacy.

“We love agriculture and enjoy being part of the region’s agricultural industry. We want to spend our nights and weekends in the vineyard, which is a place where our sons can learn the value of hard work. It’s been rewarding to develop an agricultural endeavor that we can one day pass on to our boys if they want to take advantage of those opportunities,” said Judy James, a third generation Sonoma County agriculturist who grew up on a family ranch not far from where she now resides. She’s proud that her sons are the fourth generation to work the land in Sonoma County. “Our strategy is to go slow and steady for the long haul,” said Judy. “We want to build a strong business that will be around for generations.” The Cotati area where the James family grows grapes and make their home was once known for its chicken ranches and dairy farms but the region is gaining a reputation for cool-climate grapes such as pinot noir and chardonnay. The James family’s Stony Point Vineyard is located in one of the coolest areas of Sonoma County, a region known for its brisk, chilling breezes off the Pacific Ocean. The Jameses’ vineyard is across the road from the Gallo family’s sprawling Two Rock Vineyards that march over the hills between Highway 101 and Stony Point Road. The area, part of the Sonoma Coast Viticultural Area, is an ideal environment, or terroir, for pinot noir, a finicky grape not suited to warmer regions. The vineyards are low-yielding and the grapes ripen ever so slowly, producing fruit with extraordinary Burgundian flavor. Although the vineyard is managed by Steve and Joe Dutton of Sebastopol, the James family does as much work as they can after their day jobs and on weekends – pruning in winter, leaf pulling in summer and the many other tasks necessary to grow premium grapes. Each fall, the grapes are hand-picked based on taste and appearance. The tough economy is a challenge as the James family markets its high-end wine in a crowded market. But like the grape glut in 2002, Jeff and Judy know that times will get better in the wine industry, which is Sonoma County’s agricultural future. The magical combination of soil and climate have made Sonoma County a leading player on the world’s wine stage. “We are both definitely keeping our day jobs out of necessity,” said Jeff. “Like so many other farmers in Sonoma County we are working other jobs so we can pursue our passion for farming.”

February 2009

Cattle Ranching Part of the Culture and Landscape in Sonoma and Marin Counties L

ike many dedicated ranchers in Sonoma and Marin counties, Jerry and Debbie Norman of Petaluma run a ranch that has been in the family for generations – tending land and cattle that are as much a way-of-life as a way to make a living. And like many Sonoma and Marin ranchers the Normans are working harder and harder to thrive as a troubled economy weakens livestock markets and the season’s severe shortage of rainfall pushes up production costs. But like most ranchers the Normans are hunkering down to weather the dark clouds of the economic storm. “When we took over the ranch, my father told us you aren’t going to get rich doing this but you’ll have a good life,’ said Debbie Norman, the fifth generation of her family to live and work on the ranch. “My father was right. We aren’t getting rich but we get to be here on this beautiful land, not riding the bus to jobs in San Francisco every day.” The Normans’ son Lane, 9, the sixth generation on the ranch, is learning the ways of the land and cattle, with the hope he will one day carry on the family’s ranching tradition. Lane, a student at Tomales Elementary School, is raising his first steers for the Sonoma County Fair, breaking the stubborn calves to lead and gentle down for the show ring. The Angus calves, heavy-boned and thickly muscled, are from the family’s herd. The Normans’ ranch straddles the border separating Sonoma and Marin counties. The cattle corrals are in Sonoma County and the Normans’ house sits in Marin County. They pay taxes to both counties but, mostly, say they live in Petaluma, Sonoma County. “Sometimes it depends on who you are talking to when you say whether you live in Sonoma or Marin county,” jokes Jerry Norman, whose quick-smile and easy way fit the traditional profile of the Western rancher. Debbie, tall and wiry, is a working partner on the ranch that has been in her family for nearly 150 years. She grew up as a member of the Stump family, which settled the ranch off Fallon Road in the last half of the 1800’s. At one time, the Stump family operated a dairy but for a couple of generations the family has produced beef cattle on the grazing land that characterizes the sweeping landscape between Petaluma and the Pacific Ocean. Today Debbie and Jerry Norman, who grew up in Humboldt County and honed his livestock handling skills at the Ukiah Auction Yard, run 325 beef cows on the family’s 440 acre ranch. They lease an additional 450 acres bordering their ranch and run cattle on leased ranches in Bodega and Point Reyes. The Normans do a lot of driving through Sonoma and West Marin counties to feed cattle, particularly, during a year like this when there is less grass because of scant winter rainfall. “It’s just really tough this year. You do whatever you can to make it work,” said Jerry Norman, who drives truck to supplement his ranching income. He said to reduce feed costs they are using rice straw mixed with alfalfa to get their cattle through the winter months. The Normans, longtime members of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, are among the North Coast cattle ranchers weathering the uncertain times in the cattle industry because of the weak economy, fluctuating currency exchange rates and loss of overseas markets

Jerry and Debbie Norman work cattle in the traditional way on the Petaluma Ranch that has been in Debbie’s family for nearly 150 years. Photo by Veda Radke 56

Debbie Norman “heading” and Curtis Yellowhorse, of Indian descent from the Dakotas, “heeling” a calf. Photo by Veda Radke for American beef. The nation’s beef cattle numbers have declined because of the high feed and production costs. The battered economy and increasing ranks of unemployed are impacting beef consumption as fewer middle-income people dine out at family-style restaurants and steak houses. On the other hand, McDonald’s is selling a lot of hamburgers. “The fact of the matter is we’re at an interesting place with the economic downturn,” said Matt Byrne, executive vice president of the California Cattlemen’s Association. “Beef demand is still strong. The change has been that people are buying more hamburger and less steak.” The Normans said the downturn is part of the economic cycle and they will get through it. They’ve been through down times before and they will go through them again. They look to the time ahead when the economy improves and the rainfall returns to normal. “Overall the cattle industry has been good to us,” said Jerry. “When things get tough you have to make necessary changes to get through it.’ Some things don’t change. The Normans keep up old traditions like gathering friends and neighbors to help with the fall branding, vaccinating and marking of beef calves born in September and October. It’s a special time that reflects the basics of cattle ranching over the last century and beyond.

“When the weather is good we rope the calves, which means we will have a lot more help because it’s a chance to be a cowboy for a day,” said Jerry. “Branding time is a lot of work but it’s a lot of fun too. Part of the ranch life.” The Normans sell their calves via video auction, which they say provides exposure to a broader national market. For many years, their calves have been purchased by a feed lot operator in Nebraska. Jerry Norman said one of the reasons that buyers like his cattle is that he weans them 30 to 45 days before they are shipped off the ranch. The calves are ready to start eating when they land in the feed lot, which is something buyers like. The Normans take pride in keeping up their ranch so that it functions well as a cattle operation and looks nice too. The corrals are kept in good order for handling the cows and calves. When everything else is done, Debbie Norman said there are always fences to fix. Miles of them. “Building and mending fence is like working on the Golden Gate Bridge,” said Debbie. “Once you go from end to end, it’s time to start over again.”

March 2009

Biggest Crowd Ever at Farm Bureau’s Great Sonoma Crab & Wine Fest The crab was fresh and succulent, the mood festive and the crowd country-oriented at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s 20th annual Great Sonoma Crab & Wine Fest where 1,150 guests enjoyed a grand night of feasting, bidding and socializing

4-Hers Matt James and Jacqueline Balletto serve fresh crab. Photo by Cindy Hubbard

he Crab Fest, held Feb. 7 in the Grace Pavilion of the Sonoma County Fairgrounds, raises money for agricultural education and scholarships. Guests enjoyed more than 4,000 pounds of Dungeness crab in addition to gallons of clam chowder, pasta, salad and dessert, all polished off with fine wines from Sonoma County. At the event’s live auction, guests bid on special lots ranging from a medieval feast for 20 at the spectacular Castello di Amorosa in Calistoga to a trophy buck hunt at the historic Cooley Ranch in Cloverdale. Auctioneer Rex Williams of Sebastopol and

mistress of ceremonies, Ziggy the Wine Gal, kept the banter and bidding going during the auction. Auction items like a stainless steel grape gondola from the Guadagni Bros in Dry Creek Valley and a dinner of locally grown “Pork and Pinot” clearly indicates that this is an event where both donors and guests are closely connected to the land and the county’s $3 billion farm industry. The Crab & Wine Fest, growing bigger each year, has become the winter social event for

the county’s farmers and ranchers and their friends and supporters. Guests like Santa Rosa attorney Eric Koenigshofer attend to enjoy a night of good food and lively conservation while supporting agriculture education programs. The goal of Farm Bureau’s extensive agricultural education program is to create an awareness of the county’s annual $3 billion agricultural industry so that farms and ranches remain part of the rural landscape for generations to come. “The crab feed was great as usual,” said Koenigshofer. “What a crowd. Kudos to the staff for what is obviously a huge effort. Everyone at my table reported having a fine time and we all enjoyed our server Davis Crawford of the Forestville 4-H. What an impressive young man and what a testimony to the future of agriculture in Sonoma County. Good job to all.” Many of the people who come together to orchestrate the crab feed or donate wine, food and auction items are dedicated to preserving Sonoma County’s rich agricultural heritage. The volunteers who help stage the event also believe a strong and viable agricultural industry is essential to maintaining what many consider the heart and soul of Sonoma County. “It’s so gratifying to see agriculture come together for Farm Bureau’s Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest. This event not only gives people a chance to see old friends and enjoy fresh crab from our coast but to raise money for agriculture education, which is so important,” said Santa Rosa rancher Bob Muelrath, president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Muelrath said the fresh-faced 4-H’ers and FFA members who helped serve at the Crab Fest best tell the story of why Farm Bureau members and staff work so hard to keep agriculture viable and visible. “This is a tremendous event that shows the spirit of our great county,” said newly elected county supervisor Efren Carrillo who represents the sprawling Fifth District on the county board of supervisors. Carrillo and county supervisor Shirlee Zane of the Third District were among the elected officials joining the county’s top grape growers, dairy farmers and livestock ranchers at the crab fest. The Crab and Wine Fest is a totally home-grown event staged by Farm Bureau members and staff with the assistance of an army of volunteers. Many of the groups benefiting from Farm Bureau’s agriculture education program pitch in to help set up tables, decorate and serve the meal. Joining the work crew were volunteers from the Santa Rosa Junior College Ag Ambassadors, FFA, 4-H and the Santa Rosa High School Ag Boosters. Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, said Farm Bureau is committed to providing agricultural education to youth, adults and community leaders so they can better understand the unique aspects of farming, no matter if it’s dairy cows, horses or vineyards. He said the proceeds from the crab fest are used to bring agriculture to those who would otherwise not benefit from a farm experience. One of Farm Bureau’s major educational efforts is Ag Days, which have been held for nearly 30 years to bring a taste of farm life to city kids. Last year more than 5,000 school children came to the Sonoma County Fairgrounds for Ag Days, which includes livestock displays, a hay maze, horsemanship demonstrations and samples of Sonoma County farm products like apples, cheese and milk. This year’s event is March 17 and 18. As part of Ag Days, Farm Bureau also sponsors a number of contests including essay, poster, book mark, scarecrow, mural and photography contests for school children. The contests are a way to get kids thinking about the Sonoma County farms that unfold on the urban fringe. The theme of this year’s celebration is “Local Farms Keep Sonoma County Green.”

Jeff and Roberta Kunde of Kunde Estate Winery, Martin and Sally Pozzi of Pozzi Hay and Mark Stornetta of Sonoma. Farm Bureau also uses the proceeds from the crab fest to support farm youth organizations like the FFA and 4-H and to fund agricultural scholarships. “We take great pride in preparing individuals for careers in agriculture through our scholarship programs,” said McCorvey, who grew up in Sonoma County and was an award-winning member of the Santa Rosa FFA Chapter. For many years, McCorvey taught vocational agriculture at Santa Rosa High School. Sonoma County poultry rancher Arnie Riebli, a partner in Sunrise Farms, gave Farm Bureau’s scholarship program a tremendous boost by donating $8,000 to match the $8,000 contributed to the scholarship program during the live auction. Riebli wants his money to assist students studying agriculture at four year colleges and to help students going to Santa Rosa Junior College. He said the need is greater than ever because of the troubled economy and the suspension of the Doyle Scholarship Program by the Exchange Bank. Farm Bureau’s crab feed has grown from a few hundred people to more than a thousand. When it started 20 years ago, the Great Sonoma Crab & Wine Fest was held at the Sebastopol Veterans Memorial Building and then as it grew to the Santa Rosa Veterans Memorial Building. Five years ago, the Crab Fest moved to the Grace Pavilion at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds to accommodate the ever-growing numbers of people who now consider it a traditional event on their social calendar. “Thanks to everyone who made the Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest such a wonderful event and such a memorable gathering,” said McCorvey. Plans are already underway for next year’s event, which will be held the first Saturday night of February.

April 2009

Arnie Riebli is Sonoma County Fair’s Outstanding North Bay Rancher Fourth Generation Sonoma County Rancher Keeps Bay Area in Eggs

Arnie Rielbi is managing partner of Sunrise Farms, a Petaluma based company that produces 1 million eggs a day. Photo by Brenda Hawkes

onoma County’s Arnie Riebli is to eggs, what Col. Sanders is to fried chicken, both rule the roost when it comes to products marketed from the incredible, edible chicken. Riebli, a fourth generation Sonoma County rancher, is the managing partner of

Sunrise Farms, a Petaluma-based company that churns out a million eggs each day – that’s seven days a week, 52 weeks a year, no exceptions. Laying hens and those who tend them don’t take off weekends or holidays. Riebli isn’t complaining. After all, it was his business acumen that built Sunrise Eggs into a 60

Riebli said people who know nothing about the welfare of laying hens are telling him how to care for his chickens. That really irks him. “I have forgotten more about animal welfare than most animal welfare advocates will ever know. I spend my life studying these birds to know what makes them happy and content,” said Riebli. “And I believe my chickens are happy and content.” Riebli and his partners say they don’t want to give up the business that is as much a way-of-life as a way to earn a living. Riebli’s partners in Sunrise Farms are Dick Weber, Al Nissen, Larry Johnson, Jim Carlson and Scott Weber. Sunrise Farms, with 10 different egg farms in Sonoma County, employs 70 people. “The real driving force is that we are farmers. All of us associated with Sunrise Farms have deep roots in Sonoma County agriculture. We have families that have been in farming for 100 years,” said Riebli. “It is a way of life we love. We really do enjoy what we are doing. I personally look forward to going to work every day.” Riebli said his work is never boring. There are always problems to solve and issues to address. “There are so many challenges every day just to produce something as mundane as an egg,” said Riebli. It’s not unusual for Riebli to be conducting three conversations at once on three different phone lines. For his part, Riebli is energized by the art of the deal. He has orchestrated merger after merger to create Sunrise Farms, which is one of the leading egg companies on the West Coast. Pretty heady stuff for a farm boy born on a Cotati dairy and chicken ranch. His family later moved to a ranch in Penngrove, running a Grade B Dairy and breeder hen operation. “I have vivid memories of being out with my dad feeding chickens from the back of a sled pulled by a horse,” said Riebli. “I grew up feeding chickens and milking cows.” The family later moved to the town of Sonoma where Riebli and his wife Joan still make their home today. “I have been in the same house for 45 years,” said Riebli. He and his wife have four grown children, AJ, Sean, Monica and Dominic Riebli, and seven grandchildren. Riebli said at least one of his children is interested in carrying on the egg business. Growing up, Riebli was a member of the Wilson and Cinnabar 4-H Clubs while attending St. Vincent High School in Petaluma. He raised fat lambs, hogs and Holstein dairy cattle, showing at all the local fairs and building relationships that have lasted a lifetime. There wasn’t an FFA Chapter at St. Vincent’s, of course, so Riebli, as a 4-H club member who raised livestock, became the high school’s most celebrated Aggie. He was nicknamed “Hog Raiser.” In the high school yearbook, fellow seniors predicted that Farm Boy Arnie would one day be the “first farmer to produce eggs on the moon.” “Looking back, I smile and think how prophetic that prediction was,” said Riebli. “Some days it feels like I am producing eggs on the moon.” But most days, Riebli is as content and happy as his chickens. He said it’s rewarding to work with great people to produce an economical, highly-nutritious source of protein that feeds millions of people. “I am associated with some of the greatest people anyone would ever want to meet,” said Arnie. “They are smart, honest and straight in business. In today’s world, that speaks volumes.”

major player in the egg world, supplying most of the eggs consumed by the millions of people who live in the San Francisco Bay Area. “I have been very lucky in my life. I have been allowed to live my dream. I was given the leeway to build and create this egg business and that’s a tremendous privilege,” said Riebli, a bigger-than-life character with dreams and a heart to match. In addition to his bottom-line prowess as a businessman, Riebli is known for his generosity in supporting community events, farm youth and education. This year he donated $8,000 for agricultural scholarships administered by the Sonoma County Farm Bureau Foundation. But in typical Arnie fashion, Riebli’s scholarship grant was a challenge for matching funds. Riebli effectively raised $16,000 for agricultural scholarships. Riebli’s bulls-eye business acumen, dedication to agriculture and generous support of farm youth and agriculture education have earned him many accolades from the community he loves. Now Riebli is being honored by the Sonoma County Fair as the Outstanding North Bay Rancher for 2009. The award, presented by the Sonoma County Fair’s board of directors, is based on overall agriculture management, leadership and community service. He will be honored during the fair, which runs from July 28 through Aug. 9. Riebli said it’s his personal philosophy and his company’s business philosophy to give back to the communities that support their egg business. “We understand that we are just part of the community and we want the community to be healthy and vibrant. That takes everyone working together,” said Riebli, who digs deep to buy livestock raised by 4-H and FFA members at the fair’s junior livestock auctions. “There is nothing more rewarding than to watch a kid raise and sell an animal, learning that all of the hard work translates into pay day at the fair,” said Riebli. Riebli has earned the admiration of many in the community for his giving ways and attention to agricultural issues. “Arnie has been a staunch supporter of agriculture and youth throughout Sonoma County for decades. He’s a respected leader in the poultry industry in California who is dedicated to keeping poultry a big part of Sonoma County’s agricultural economy,” said Terry Lindley, vice president of marketing for American AgCredit and a member of the selection committee for the Outstanding North Bay Rancher Award. Lindley said Riebli not only knows the intricacies of his own business but is always keenly aware of the state and national issues impacting agriculture and the poultry industry. Riebli understands the politics of farming and the need to be involved in the process. Riebli, who studied business at University of San Francisco, took an active role last fall in agriculture’s opposition to Prop. 2, the controversial initiative called the “Standards for Confining Farm Animals” on the November ballot. Unfortunately, said Riebli, Prop. 2 passed because backers including the Humane Society of the United States used emotions rather than sound science to sway urban voters. The proposition adds a chapter to the California Health and Safety Code to prohibit the confinement of certain farm animals including laying hens. The new law, which goes into effect on Jan. 1, 2015, mandates that chickens be allowed to fully extend their wings. Riebli wants to continue producing eggs and is figuring how to comply when Prop. 2 becomes law in six years. “We are diligently trying to determine what Prop. 2 really means. Our plan is to stay in business, which means we will have to retool our existing buildings and build more houses for the hens. It will mean spending many millions of dollars,” said Riebli. 61

May 2009

Dairy Industry Leader Kip Herzog Will Be Inducted into Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame M

ax “Kip” Herzog, an internationally-recognized Holstein breeder and the longtime steward of his family’s legendary Sleepy Hollow Dairy in Petaluma, has been a respected leader on the Sonoma County farm front for 50 years. Friends describe him as the “original class act,” a man as comfortable discussing Holstein bloodlines as politics. Herzog’s life has been marked by many accomplishments and defined by his dedication to the dairy industry, Sonoma County agriculture and farm youth programs like 4-H and FFA. He served many years on the board of directors of the Sonoma-Marin Fair and has won many accolades including being named California’s “Livestock Man of the Year” at the San Francisco Cow Palace’s Grand National Livestock Exposition. Herzog’s profound legacy and lifetime achievement are among the reasons Sonoma County Farm Bureau has selected him for induction into the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame, a who’s who of the agricultural greats in Sonoma County. As a member of the Hall of Fame, Herzog joins a revered group of agricultural leaders and pioneer ranchers who have been the guiding force in preserving, protecting and propelling Sonoma County’s $3 billion farming industry. Herzog joins other legendary leaders like Richard Kunde, Henry Trione, Angelo Sangiacomo, Larry Bertolini and the late Bob Kunde, Gene Benedetti and James Groom in the Hall of Fame. Herzog will be inducted into the Hall of Fame at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s “Love the Land” celebration and dinner on July 16 at the historic MacMurray Ranch in Healdsburg. For 50 years, the MacMurray Ranch was the domain of movie actor Fred MacMurray who produced registered Angus cattle on the scenic spread along the Russian River. The Gallo family acquired the ranch 12 years ago and transformed a portion of the ranch to premium quality vineyards. MacMurray’s daughter, Kate MacMurray, lives on the ranch where she spent summers and holidays while growing up in Southern California. Today, she works for the Gallo family to promote the MacMurray wine label while perpetuating her family’s legacy on the ranch. The “Love of the Land” barbecue is a new Farm Bureau event that will honor Herzog and other stewards of the land while celebrating the beauty and bounty of Sonoma County. The event, open to the public, begins at 5:30 p.m. with wine and Sonoma County appetizers, followed by a gourmet barbecue dinner and the presentations to Herzog and other award recipients. In addition to the Hall of Fame, Farm Bureau will present two other awards, the Luther Burbank Conservation Award and the Farm Family of the Year Award. The recipients of those awards have not been announced. Herzog said he is honored by the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame Award and is appreciative of his good fortune to be a rancher in Sonoma County. Herzog, like his wife Marilyn, who also is a native and lifelong resident of Sonoma County, strongly believes in preserving Sonoma County’s rich agricultural heritage for the generations to come. “Agriculture is such an important part of Sonoma County. I don’t think you can find a better place in the world to live than Sonoma County,” said Herzog, a world traveler.

Max “Kip” Herzog 62

Herzog credits wife Marilyn, who grew up Marilyn Jacobs on the Jacobs Ranch in Santa Rosa, for much of his success in business and in life. He said Marilyn has always been there to support him in the dairy business and joined him in making community service part of their life. Mostly, he cherishes Marilyn’s commitment to their family and the wonderful family atmosphere she created at their home on the ranch. The Herzogs have three grown children, Jennifer Buffo of Penngrove, Tricia Townsend of Santa Rosa and Trent Herzog, a Petaluma resident who is the head football coach at Casa Grande High School in Petaluma. There are five grandchildren. Kip and Marilyn Herzog sold their herd of Holsteins in 2000, ending a dairy farming tradition that spanned three generations and 75 years on the family ranch but remain active in promoting the Holstein breed. The Herzogs continue to own and live on their 650 acre Sleepy Hollow Ranch where they have planted vineyards. The milking parlor, barns and some pastures have been leased to another dairy farmer. The Herzogs permanently protected their land in 1996 when the development rights were sold to the Sonoma County Agricultural Preservation and Open Space District. Herzog said he enjoyed the challenge and the science of breeding Holstein cattle whose bloodlines were known throughout the world. The Holsteins at Sleepy Hollow were the aristocrats of the cow world, providing bloodlines for cow herds from Japan to Canada. Herzog, like his father and grandfather before him, practiced judicious genetic selection to breed cows that represent the best of the Holstein breed. The entire Sleepy Hollow herd was purchased by Ron Pietersma, owner of Legend Dairy in Chino. At the time of the sale, Pietersma said he was getting the best herd of Holsteins in the United States. “It’s just amazing me to that I am able to acquire 75 years of Holstein breeding that has been so carefully supervised by the Herzog family,” Pietersma said while loading the cows for the trip to their new home in Chino. The Herzogs said it was a very difficult decision to sell the cows that represented decades of breeding by three generations of the Herzog family. But, like many family businesses, the Holstein breeding program had come to the end of the line. Kip was ready to retire and none of the children were interested in continuing in the dairy business, particularly, considering the hardships, long hours and slim economic returns. It was a sign of the changing times in agriculture and the end of a chapter in the Sleepy Hollow history. Herzog took over the family dairy from his father, Max L. Herzog, who had succeeded his father Sigfried Herzog, a successful Marin County businessman who bought the Sleepy Hollow Ranch in 1926. At the time of the purchase, the ranch, owned by the Rose Land Co., was 2,200 acres. The dairy facilities were built from the ground up, utilizing the latest ideas that would fulfill requirements for dairy farms producing certified raw milk. Because sanitation was crucial in meeting all the requirements for “certified milk,” steam producing broilers were installed to clean and sterilize the equipment and Sleepy Hollow milk bottles. Sleepy Hollow prospered and expanded under Kip Herzog’s father, Max L. Herzog, who studied at the University of California, Berkeley, and was considered an innovator. He enrolled the Sleepy Hollow cows in the Dairy Herd Improvement Association. He also saw the value in breeding purebred cattle to increase milk production for a growing nation of consumers. He also was among the first to embrace artificial insemination as a valuable tool in genetic improvement. Kip Herzog began to take a keen interest in the dairy and Sleepy Hollow’s Holstein breeding program during his high school years. At Petaluma High School, Kip came under the tutelage of the late great W.A. “Pappy” Norton, the school’s legendary agriculture instructor. With Norton’s encouragement, Kip took vocational agriculture classes with his

FFA project centered on his dairy cows and work on the family dairy. Kip was a member of Petaluma High’s dairy cattle judging team that won state finals and competed in the national finals in Wisconsin. After graduating from Petaluma High School in 1955, Kip enrolled at the University of California, Davis, where he majored in animal husbandry. While at UC Davis, he participated in many activities including the dairy cattle judging team and took over the chairmanship of the “Little International Livestock Show” in 1957. But Herzog said one of the most life-changing aspects of college was joining the agricultural fraternity, Alpha Gamma Rho. “That organization has done as much for me as anything I have ever been involved with. I was a shy farm kid. My fraternity brothers in AGR helped me to become more social,” said Herzog, who continues to be active in the Alpha Gamma Rho Alumni. He’s also active in the Petaluma Rotary Club where he has served as president. As influential leaders in the Holstein World and American agriculture, the Herzog family has received many honors over the decades. In October 1979, Kip and his father Max Herzog received the Dairy Shrine Distinguished Dairy Cattle Breeders Award, the most prestigious award presented each year at the World Dairy Exposition in Madison, Wis. In 1985, Kip received the California Holstein Association’s Senior Breeder Award. In 1986, Kip, like his father before him, was recognized by the Los Loscheros Dairy Club at Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo, for his outstanding accomplishments and commitment to the future of the dairy industry. The Sonoma County Fair honored Sleepy Hollow Dairy twice with the Dairy of the Year Award, first in 1974 when Max Herzog was alive and again in 1996 when the dairy was operated by Kip and Marilyn Herzog. Four years later, the California Chamber of Commerce named Kip Herzog the “Livestock Man of the Year” at the Cow Palace. Kip was one of only a few dairy producers to receive Livestock Man of the Year, which traditionally went to beef cattle producers. In 2008 Kip Herzog received the Elite Breeder of the Year Award, presented by the National Holstein Association. Kip Herzog received Sonoma County’s Lifetime Achievement Award in Agriculture from the Santa Rosa Chamber of Commerce. This year Kip and Marilyn are the recipients of the Petaluma Valley Hospital Foundation’s “Evelyn and Gene Benedetti” Service Award for their philanthropy and volunteer work in so many areas of the community. Both Kip and his late father Max Herzog served as directors of the Sonoma-Marin Fair. Because of the family’s many years of service on the board and contributions to the fair, the fair named Herzog Hall in the family’s honor. Now, Herzog’s lifetime achievements as agriculture leader and Sonoma County citizen will be celebrated with the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame Award on July 16. The “Love of the Land” event is open to anyone who wants to join in honoring Kip Herzog, a man of the land whose contributions have made a real difference in Sonoma County and the world of Holsteins.

“Agriculture is such an important part of Sonoma County. I don’t think you can find a better place in the world to live than Sonoma County.” ~ Max Herzog

June 2009

Johanna Vanoni Recognized for Excellence in the Horse Industry by Sonoma County Fair Enhancing Quality While Protecting Resources truest sort, she became a 4-H leader long before her oldest child was even old enough to participate in the club. Under Vanoni’s leadership, the 4-H Light Horse Project enrollment swelled to more than 500 youngsters. Among her contributions were producing the two day 4-H English/ Western horse show, horse judging and riding clinics, horse mastership competitions and trail rides. Except for the trail rides all events took place at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. “One of my fondest memories is the wonderful spirit of cooperation exhibited by the over 20 4-H Light Horse Leaders and parents while working together to produce and supervise these events,” she says. Vanoni, of course, was no stranger to horse shows, having been association secretary and a show manager of the Redwood Empire Cutting Horse Association since its beginning in 1972. During her 31 years there, the position involved hundreds upon hundreds of hours to put the association in the black, keep it solvent, and produce quality shows. Vanoni points out that “RECHA shows have been a place for many exhibitors to begin their show careers. What a thrill it was to read about a contestant--now known as the ‘Six Million Dollar Man’--who remembered he earned his first two win checks (for about $300.00) when he was 13 years old competing at a 1981 RECHA weekend show.” Currently the National Cutting Horse Association’s top money earning rider, the “ Six Million Dollar Man” is Phil Rapp, formerly of Napa, CA. Over the years the Vanonis were involved as exhibitors or volunteers with the California State Horsemen’s Association Region 1, The Sonoma County Riding and Driving Club, The Vintage Cutting Horse Association, The Redwood Empire Quarter Horse Association, The Western Counties Quarter Horse Association, and the North Bay Horse Shows. They all produced shows at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds that attracted a steady stream of exhibitors from all over California. Recognized nationally by entities such as the American Quarter Horse Association and the National Cutting Horse Association for their top-quality Quarter Horses, it’s not surprising that the Vanonis were sought after to teach horse classes for Santa Rosa Junior College. Ed first taught the class, then Johanna taught it for five years, and her daughter Adriane also taught the popular class. Her memories of the SRJC class sound like a summation of her career in general: “We didn’t have an agenda; we weren’t trying to sell anything. Safety was paramount. Stress was placed on practical riding and horse keeping information. The Royal Canadian Mounted Police are a modern day example.” In 1995 Vanoni was appointed to the board of directors of the Sonoma County Fair, and after 13 years of service she resigned at the end of 2008. Her fellow members are pleased this year to recognize her as most deserving of the Award of Excellence in the Horse Industry.

ractically a fixture in the arenas of the Sonoma County Fairgrounds for decades, Johanna Vanoni has probably dedicated as much of her life educating others about horses as she’s spent in the saddle. A longtime 4-H leader, pivotal force in the Redwood Empire Cutting Horse Association and SRJC instructor, she’s given tirelessly of her time to advocate for horses and the people who own and love them. “I never had a horse of my own as a child,” Vanoni remembers. “My mother would have preferred that I take music lessons, but reluctantly agreed to let me go with my girlfriends who were all taking lessons at a nearby stable.” Vanoni’s passion for horses led her, through another girlfriend, to meet the manager of a stable in the tony Carolands area of Hillsborough. He recognized her skills and had Vanoni ride the horses in need of exercise boarded there by his wealthy clients. Occasionally Vanoni would take one of her mounts onto the lands of the nearby W.W. Crocker estate. “One day here I was on a gorgeous paint gelding and I came crashing through the brush just as Mr. Crocker was walking his dogs along the trail. “Where did you come from?’ he asked me. When I explained, he was happy to know there was a place so close where he could move his wife’s horses. They became clients of the stable, and later we would sometimes trail ride together into Crystal Springs reservoir area. Mrs. Crocker was an excellent rider.” That first horse of her own didn’t come into Vanoni’s life until three years after she was married. Husband Ed had just returned from his two-year stint in Korea, and Johanna invested $500 in a yearling registered Quarter Horse filly. A few years later two Poco bred Quarter Horse mares were acquired from Wallace J. S. Johnson, the former mayor of Berkeley. “Those three mares produced some high quality offspring, they won in the show ring and earned their keep as working horses on the ranch,” Vanoni recalls. “To start with we had three grade horses on the cattle ranch, they were all at least 15 plus years old. One of the first horses we sold was to Henry Trione for a family horse. (Just happens Henry Trione was the first recipient of the Award of Excellence in the Horse Industry awarded by the Fair in 2008.)” Art Dahlgren, owner of a drug store chain, recognized the horse sense exhibited by the young couple and began to bring horses to the ranch to be fed, ridden, and trained. “This morphed into our horse training business,” Vanoni explains, noting that in those days her athletic husband easily jumped from the ground onto a horse. “He’s still very athletic at 79 and rides several horses a day, five days a week.” Dahlgren was a main founder of the Sonoma County Trail Blazers men’s riding association, and through him word spread of the Vanonis’ skill with horses, so the training business grew. “Of course that meant we had to start giving some riding lessons, too--you can’t just put someone on a horse and expect they will function as a team. Over the years many of our students became champions,” she adds. The family grew, too—Johanna had four children along the way. A volunteer of the

Johanna Vanoni and â&#x20AC;&#x153;Saddlelight,â&#x20AC;? a Quarter horse gelding in training for cutting horse competition, at the Vanoni Ranch in Geyserville. Photo by Brenda Hawkes 65

July 2009

Sangiacomo Family of Sonoma Honored with the Winegrape Commission’s “Viticulture Award of Excellence”

he Sangiacomo family, one of the leading grape growing families in Sonoma County and community leaders in their native Sonoma Valley, are the recipients of the 2009 “Viticulture Award of Excellence,” presented by the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission. Although “Sangiacomo Vineyards” appears on some of Wine Country’s most expensive and exclusive wine labels, the Sangiacomos remain as humble and unpretentious as they were a half century ago when they were fruit farmers, producing prunes, pears and apples. Like their Italian immigrant ancestors, the Sangiacomos are low-key folks, rooted in their land and committed to family unity. Today, the Sangiacomos farm more than 1,000 acres of vineyards, producing high end premium grapes, primarily, pinot noir and chardonnay, for top wineries in Sonoma and Napa counties. “Well, we’re just farmers,” family patriarch Angelo Sangiacomo, says in the familiar refrain common to anyone who knows him. The annual award presented to the Sangiacomos recognizes an individual or family who has made significant contributions to the Winegrape Commision, Sonoma County viticulture and the greater wine and local communities. The Sangiacomos, longtime leaders in both grape growing and the communities where they live and farm, epitomize excellence in viticulture and community service. “The Sangiacomos are well known and respected by fellow grape growers, winemakers and the local community. The family has earned that respect through their honest and fair business practices, their involvement on industry boards and their generous support of a number of trade organizations, charities and non-profits,” said Nick Frey, president of the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission. ‘ Frey said the Sangiacomos never seek recognition or accolades but it comes to them because they always do the right thing, whether it’s working on housing issues for vineyard workers or growing the best grapes from their well-tended vineyards. “They are truly pillars in the wine community,” said Frey. The Sangiacomos were characteristically gracious in accepting the award, which was presented on June 17 at the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission’s annual trade show and barbecue held at Santa Rosa Junior College’s Shone Farm near Forestville. “We are extremely honored to receive this award especially since it is from our peers,” said Angelo Sangiacomo. “Sonoma County has been so good to our family and we feel very fortunate to have farmed through three generations. Grape growing is a great balance of maintaining cutting edge farming practices and being exemplary stewards of the land. Our family continues to focus on both and treat them equally.” The close-knit family meets daily for breakfast and lunch at the ancestral home of Aunt Lorraine, who is Angelo’s sister and the oldest member of the second generation. Around the dining room table business decisions are made amid a relaxed, family style atmosphere over chicken cacciatore or pasta. There are no formal board meetings. The Sangiacomos have side-stepped the feuds and court-battles of other wine families in Sonoma and Napa counties. That’s because the Sangiacomos respect each other while being focused on the same goal: to continue farming family land for generations

to come. It’s part of their European heritage. The Sangiacomo Family has farmed land in Sonoma County since 1927 when Vittorio Sangiacomo, who had emigrated from Genoa, Italy, purchased a 56-acre farm in the Carneros region. The next year, he married Maria also from Genoa. They farmed pears, prunes and apples until the markets diminished for those crops. Vittorio and Maria had four children, Lorraine, Angelo, Buck and Bob Sangiacomo. In 1969, as wine was becoming more popular in the United States, the second generation decided to switch from orchards to vineyards, a necessary move to continue in farming and keep their land. And as Angelo Sangiacomo so plainly communicates: the Sangiacomos are farmers first and foremost. The second generation making the move to wine grapes included Angelo Sangiacomo and his wife Diane, the late Bob Sangiacomo, Buck Sangiacomo and his wife Sue and Lorraine Sangiacomo. By the late 1980s the transition was complete, with all the land converted to vines. Vittorio and Maria lived long enough to see their family get in the grape growing business and secure the family’s position in Sonoma County agriculture. Vittorio died in 1987 and Maria died in 1995. Today, the second generation provides the support and guidance for the third Sangiacomo generation that is now overseeing the day-to-day operations of the family business. The third generation, all children of Angelo and Diane Sangiacomo, includes son Steve Sangiacomo and his wife Connie, son Michael Sangiacomo and his wife Whitney and daughter Mia Pucci and her husband Mike Pucci. The Sangiacomo Family now farms more than 1,000 acres of vineyards in the Carneros and Sonoma Coast regions of Sonoma County. More than 50 top wineries buy their wine grapes, primarily Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Many of the wineries buying Sangiacomo grapes are small, family owned wineries. It would be easier for the Sangiacomos to deal with a few large wineries but the family values the long-term relationships and loyalty of the wineries and winemakers who buy their fruit. The Sangiacomos were among the first growers to recognize the potential of the Carneros region for producing world-class wine grapes. The wind-blown Carneros region was once predominately a grazing land for sheep and cattle but growers like the Sangiacomos realized the region’s promise for crafting Burgundian style wines because of the cool-climate and shallow, stingy soils. The Sangiacomo family is very involved in the winegrape growing industry, holding many memberships and leadership positions. Steve Sangiacomo is currently vice chairman of the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission and Michael Sangiacomo is currently vice-chairman of the California Association of Winegrowers (CAWG). Both Michael and Steve Sangiacomo have been honored as the “Outstanding Young Farmer” by the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. Angelo Sangiacomo, the unofficial spokesman and figurehead for the family, has received many honors, graciously accepting them on behalf of his entire family and his late parents who started the farming tradition in Sonoma County. In 2003, Angelo Sangiacomo received the Harvest Fair’s “Lifetime Contribution to Agriculture” award. Last year, the Santa Rosa Chamber of Commerce honored Sangiacomo with its “Leadership in Agriculture” Award.

Left: The Sangiacomo family gathers at their vineyard in Sonoma. Family members are left to right, Mike Pucci, Mia Pucci, Angelo Sangiacomo, Diane Sangiacomo, Sue Sangiacomo, Lorraine Sangiacomo, Connie Sangiacomo, Steve Sangiacomo, Whitney Sangiacomo and Mike Sangiacomo. Buck Sangiacomo stands behind other family members. 67

July 2009

Beretta Dairy Family Named “Farm Family of the Year” by Sonoma County Farm Bureau

Three generations of the Beretta Family work together on their organic dairy in Santa Rosa. Family members are, left to right, Bob Beretta, Ryan, Jennifer, Sharon, Lisa and Doug Beretta. Photo from the Beretta Family Collection f the United States Department of Agriculture wants a profile of today’s American farm family, it should dispatch its rural demographers to the Beretta Dairy on Llano Road in Santa Rosa. It’s on this 400-acre family farm where three generations of the Beretta Family work

together to produce organic milk, which is used to make Wallaby organic yogurt. Doug Beretta, a fourth generation Sonoma County dairy farmer, works side-by-side with his wife Sharon Beretta, his father, Bob Beretta, and his three children, Jennifer, 21, Lisa, 20, and Ryan, 17, to milk cows and grow forage crops. Sharon Beretta, a member of the 68

Dolcini dairy family of Petaluma, also does the bookkeeping, for the Beretta Dairy, using her bovine background to sort expenditures into the proper columns in the accounting ledgers. In this family, cow pedigrees and alfalfa hay prices are dinner table conversation. The Berettas are involved in the politics of farming as well as agricultural preservation and promotion. The Beretta children, like their parents and grandparents before them, are active in the 4-H and Future Farmers of America. The Berettas are fixture at fairs and can be seen at every tri-tip barbecue fund-raiser for an agriculture-related organization. This is a family that is an integral part of the social fabric of the close-knit farming community in Sonoma County. So when Sonoma County Farm Bureau established the “Farm Family of the Year” Award this year, the Beretta Family topped the list of candidates. The Berettas set the standards for an award that will be given annually to a Sonoma County farm family making a real difference in the county’s $3 billion farming industry. “For generations, the Beretta family has taken seriously the responsibility of participating in community service work, teaching urbanites about farm life and working on behalf of farm industry organizations. It doesn’t matter if it’s a bus load of school children or a bus load of officials from Washington D.C. or China, the Beretta family is quick to invite them to the ranch and share their knowledge of agriculture and farm family life. They believe in agriculture and their work is exemplary,” said Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, the county’s largest agricultural organization. McCorvey said if one looked up the definition for a “farm family of the year award” on Wikipedia, they would no doubt find a picture of the Beretta family on the family dairy. “If something needs doing, the Berettas always deliver,” said McCorvey. “Service is part of their lives, whether it’s helping 4-H and FFA students with their livestock or dairy animals or cooking for a youth group BBQ.” And the Berettas do it all with a positive attitude, never complaining about the time they spend representing the county’s farming industry or promoting agriculture and farm youth. “I’ve seen Doug finish milking or ranch chores by 9 a.m. and then sit through hours of meetings to benefit all farmers in the county or state, only to return to the ranch for feeding or fixing a pipeline or milking barn problem,” said McCorvey. “When endangered species threatened farm land use, Doug Beretta was off to Sacramento and Washington D.C. explaining farm practices and how to save the species.” McCorvey said Doug’s father Bob Beretta upholds the family tradition as well, assisting on the ranch and dedicating his time to working with the City of Santa Rosa on using recycled water to irrigate forage crops for the dairy cows on their ranch. The Beretta Family and two other award recipients will be honored at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s “Love of the Land” celebration on July 16 at the MacMurray Ranch in Healdsburg. The scenic ranch, a classic California cattle spread formerly owned by the late movie and television actor Fred MacMurray, was acquired by the Gallo wine family 12 years ago. Some of the cattle pastures have been converted to wine grapes but the ranch still feels Old West. The cattle and horse barns and MacMurray ranch house have been lovingly restored. MacMurray’s daughter Kate MacMurray, who lives on a part of the ranch and now represents MacMurray Ranch wines for Gallo, will be at the Love of the Land celebration to share her love for this very special place she calls home. In addition to the Beretta Family, Farm Bureau will honor Max “Kip” Herzog of Petaluma and Joe Pozzi of Bodega at the Love of the Land event. Kip Herzog, an internationally recognized Holstein breeder and the longtime steward of his family’s legendary Sleepy Hollow Ranch, will be inducted into the Sonoma County

Farm Bureau Hall of Fame. Joe Pozzi, a livestock rancher and district manager of the Gold Ridge Resource Conservation District, will receive the Luther Burbank Conservation Award for his work in natural resource preservation and restoration. All of the award recipients being honored at the “Love of the Land” celebration are dedicated stewards of the land and committed to preserving agriculture. “We have a rich agricultural heritage in Sonoma County that drives many of us to work overtime to preserve, protect and promote a farming industry that also is a way-of-life,” said Beretta. “And no matter if you live on a farm or not, it’s a way of life worth saving because agriculture maintains the quality of life for everyone in Sonoma County.” In many ways, Beretta fits the image of the young American farmer. He’s smart, hard-working and deeply connected to his family, business and community. He’s more environmentally aware and less adverse to risk than previous generations of farmers. Beretta, a director and past president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, works on many fronts to keep agriculture part of the county’s economy and culture. Beretta is a director of the Sonoma County Fair where he is a strong voice for agriculture and a staunch supporter of farm youth. He’s driven by his passion for farming and an Old Word work ethic. Doug and Sharon Beretta’s daughters, Jennifer and Lisa, were both members of the 4-H and Analy FFA Chapter, showing dairy cattle and market hogs. Their son Ryan, who shares dairy cattle and market animals, was recently re-elected to his second term as president of the Analy FFA. Jennifer Beretta, a senior at California State University, Chico, works on the university’s organic dairy. Her goal is to one day work in the family dairy business. Beretta believes the time spent off the ranch is nearly as important to his family’s livelihood and farming future as the daily chores on the dairy. He said it’s a crucial time in Sonoma County for farmers like him because fewer and fewer people are involved in production agriculture. He said the farming community must be vigilant in protecting its interests and educating the public about agriculture’s needs and its important role in maintaining the county’s rural character. “Some days you have so much going on at the ranch you don’t want to leave for yet another meeting in town but you have to look at the bigger picture,” said Beretta. The bigger picture is always something the Beretta family keeps in mind as they deal with the daily challenges of farming and the changing political winds in Sonoma County, California and the federal government. Like most business people, the Berettas know they must adjust to consumer trends and the current culture if they are going to pass down the farm to the next generation.

“Some days you have so much going on at the ranch you don’t want to leave for yet another meeting in town but you have to look at the bigger picture.” ~ Doug Beretta.

August 2009

4-H’ers from Sonoma and Santa Rosa Top the Sonoma County Fair’s Lamb and Goat Shows

or the second consecutive year, Rio Pagliaro, a 10-year-old member of the Green Valley 4-H Club, exhibited the Sonoma County Fair’s Supreme Grand Champion Market Lamb, a 130 pound Hampshire that brought $11.50 a pound on a bid from Les Schwab Tires, one of the auction’s leading buyers. The price for Pagliaro’s supreme champion was below the $15 a pound price she received last year, reflecting the troubled economy and the fewer bidders vying for a fair champion. Although prices for champions were below last year, the community rallied in a big way to support all of the kids and make sure every animal was purchased. Average prices were only slightly below last year’s average. Les Schwab Tire was one of the volume buyers at the lamb and meat goat auctions. In addition to buying the supreme lamb, Les Schwab Tires jumped into buy the Supreme Champion Meat Goat, bred and raised by Alyssa Lopez of the Forestville 4-H Club. Les Schwab Tires paid $10 a pound for the 76 pound meat goat, which was judged the best of the 51 meat goats entered in the fair. Les Schwab tires, with two stores in Santa Rosa and one each in Windsor and Rohnert Park, spent more than $10,000 for the supreme champions and for other prize-winning lambs and goats in the auction. “We absolutely want to take care of the community that takes care of us,” said Brad Horst, manager of the Les Schwab Store in Rohnert Park. “The 4-H and FFA kids work so hard with their animals to get them to the fair. It’s a fabulous program that we want to support so it will be around for years to come.” Horst said many of the parents of 4-H and FFA kids are customers of Les Schwab Tires. And he hopes that many of the kids that Les Schwab supports at the fair will become customers in the future. Alyssa Lopez’s road to supreme goat is what the fair auction is all about – encouraging young people to breed livestock. Alyssa used her profits from selling a meat goat at last year’s fair to buy a breeding Boer goat. That doe goat produced the kid that was judged the supreme champion meat goat at the 2009 Sonoma County Fair. The gross sales total was $394,664 for the lambs, goats and rabbits sold at auctions during the first week of the Sonoma County Fair. That’s $33,000 below last year’s $428,141 in gross sales for the first week. Hogs, beef steers and poultry were sold the second week. Pagliaro, a resident of Sonoma and the daughter of Tony and Rori Pagliaro, exhibited the best lamb of the 425 lambs in the fair’s highly competitive lamb show. She also had the 4-H Reserve Grand Champion lamb, meaning she exhibited the best two lambs in the 4-H lamb market show. Pagliaro’s reserve grand champion brought $8 a pound from Ray Carlson of Ray Carlson & Associates of Santa Rosa. Pagliaro’s two lambs were among Green Valley 4-H Club’s first place group of eight market lambs in the 4-H lamb show. Gail Christian of Fort Worth, Texas was the judge of the lamb and meat goat shows. Christian complimented the Sonoma County Fair on the quality of its lamb show and thanked the fair for its gracious hospitality during his three days of judging. Pagliaro’s lamb beat out the grand champion FFA lamb, which was owned by Laurin Edwards, a resident of Occidental and a member of the Tomales Future Farmers of

America, for the supreme champion title. Edwards’ lamb brought $11 a pound from the Hansel Auto Group, which was represented at the auction by Linda and Rich Franceschi of Bodega Bay. The Pagliaro family said even at $11.50 and $8 a pound for Rio’s supreme and reserve grand champion lambs the 4-H’er would not make a profit because of the money she invested in buying her lambs from a top breeder of club market lambs. But Rio said it was an honor to win supreme champion twice. Rio earned a total $1,495 for a lamb that would have brought $117 if sold at a normal auction. Market price for lambs on sale day was 90 cents a pound, which means average prices were nearly seven times more than market for lambs raised by junior exhibitors. But there is nothing normal about the prices the 4-H and FFA members received for the livestock sold at the fair. Businesses and individuals pay premium prices to reward the junior exhibitors for their work and to encourage them to continue in agriculture. The top selling lamb in the sale went for $25 a pound. The lamb was owned by Luke Northen, a member of the Gold Ridge 4-H and a June graduate of Analy High School. The 120 Crossbred lamb was purchased by Northen’s uncle Chris Baker who owns a hay business in Petaluma. Baker had promised that he would pay the whopping price if his nephew went to college after high school. Northen has enrolled in the agriculture program at Santa Rosa Junior College. Sam Cheda, a member of the Petaluma FFA, also received a higher price for his lamb than the champions that preceded his lamb in the sale. Cheda received $22 a pound from joint buyers Ramatici Insurance of Petaluma and Shore Herefords of Gridley. The average price for the 425 lambs sold in the fair sale was $$6.91 a pound, 22 cents a pound below last year’s $7.13 a pound. In 2007, when economic times were better the lambs sold at the fair averaged $7.51 a pound. The FFA Grand champion Meat Goat was shown by John Spruce, a member of the Santa Rosa FFA Chapter. His goat was purchased for $5 a pound by Petaluma’s Sunrise Farms, represented by managing partner Arnie Riebli of Sonoma. Sunrise Farms was among the volume buyers at the fair’s livestock auctions. The 51 head of goats in the sale averaged $6.21 a pound, which is 86 cents a pound below last year. The goat auction total was $26,839. Champion Rabbit Meat Pen honors went to Theresa Hinrichs of Classic Cloverdale 4-H Club. The champion pen of rabbits brought $850, purchased by Minuteman Press of Petaluma and donated to the Petaluma Kitchen. Average price bid on rabbits this year was $263 per pen. The total take for the rabbit auction was $6,594. Buyers who purchase livestock raised by Sonoma County youth at the Fair can choose to keep the top-quality meat, resell it at market price, or donate the meat to any number of local nonprofit agencies. The difference between market price and the auction price frequently can be claimed as a charitable contribution; buyers are encouraged to check with their tax preparers. Proceeds from the auction typically are used by the youngsters to save for college or to invest in their next livestock project. In addition to purchasing and caring for their livestock, participating junior exhibitors are required to keep records of their purchase price, feed and other supplies—a real life exercise in the realities of farming.

Left: Rio Pagliaro of Sonoma with her Supreme Champion Lamb in the auction ring at the Sonoma County Fair. Auctioneers Louie Ricci, left, and Tony Brazil take bids for the lamb that sold for $11.50 a pound. Rio get’s some help with her trophies from fellow 4-H’ers Gabby Mansour, second from left, her cousin Shawnee Pagilaro and Madeline Kiser. Photo by Brenda Hawkes

“The 4-H and FFA kids work so hard with their animals to get them to the fair. It’s a fabulous program that we want to support so it will be around for years to come.” ~ Brad Horst 71

September 2009

Vella Cheese – A Cut Above Ignazio Vella Heads Family Business Now in Fourth Generation

gnazio Vella of Sonoma makes the best cheese in the world. That’s not public relations hype, but a fact confirmed by his triumph at the World Cheese Championships in Wisconsin in 1995 and other top placings over the decades at other international competitions. It was Vella’s signature Dry Jack that was named the world’s top cheese, muscling out heavy-weight competitors from cheese nations like France and Italy. The world championship only confirmed what Sonoma County cheese lovers have known for decades. While the world has dramatically changed over the last 80 years, much has remained the same at the Vella Cheese Co., a treasured landmark in the historic town of Sonoma. Ig Vella heads the family business that now is in the fourth generation. Over the years, Vella cheeses, sold under the Bear Flag label, have won gold medal after gold medal for the hand-made cheeses crafted from the milk of contented cows from

a Sonoma Valley dairy. At this year’s California State Fair, Vella Cheese again swept the competition, taking a gold medal and Best of Division for its Special Select Dry Jack. Vella also won gold medals for his Romanello Dolce and Oro Secco at the California State Fair. Ignazio Vella, who at 81 has lost little of the fiery character that is his hallmark, said the secret to his world-class cheese is milk from happy cows, skilled cheesemakers and attention to details. Those basics blend together beautifully at Vella’s historic cheese plant on Second Street East just a jaunt from the Sonoma Plaza. “If you insist on the best natural raw material you have set the stage for super cheese,” said Vella. “What has built our reputation over the years, has been our hour-to-hour personal attention.” For more than 20 years, Vella has purchased milk from the Mertens Dairy, owned and 72

operated by George Mertens and his family. George Mertens, a dairy industry leader and past president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, said it’s rewarding to have the milk from his Holsteins made into world-class cheese. Vella is known as Ig to anyone and everyone in his native Sonoma where he is a political legend and the town’s last surviving cheesemaker following the demise of the Sonoma Cheese Factory. “All of us in the cheese world call Ig Vella the grandfather of cheese,” said Sheana Davis, a fourth generation Sonoma Valley resident and cheesemaker who considers Vella her mentor in both cheesemaking and civic involvement. Davis owns and operates The Epicurean Connection, a culinary marketing and education company focused on top quality cheeses, brews and wine. Vella grew up in the cheese business, left for a time and came back. After serving as a Sonoma County Supervisor and the manager of the Sonoma County Fair, Vella in 1981 returned to the family cheese business founded in 1931 by his father, the late Tom Vella. Tom Vella was an astute businessman and entrepreneur, who preferred deal-making more than cheese making. He hired artisan cheesemakers who later taught Ig Vella the mysterious ways of curds and whey. Ig Vella trained head cheesemaker Charles Malkassian and assistant cheesemaker Roger Rannikar, who both have been with Vella Cheese Co. for more than 20 years. Both men take quiet pride in the old-world way in which the Vella cheeses are made and gently aged on wooden racks. Rannikar explains that the 8 pound wheels of Dry Jack, used for grating in the same way as a Parmigiano-Reggiano, are still rubbed with a mixture of vegetable oil, cocoa and pepper and then aged for two years. Vellas’ daughter Chickie Vella, wiry and energetic, works with her father in the family business, serving as chief financial officer and office manager while handling any other chores that comes along. “It’s a small family business. I will drive the forklift if I have to,” jokes Chickie. Chickie’s son, Gabe Luddy, 31, is the fourth generation to work at Vella Cheese Co and is one of Ig Vella’s six grandchildren. While growing up in Sonoma, most of the grandchildren have held part-time and summer positions in the cheese plant, working under the stern tutelage of their grandfather. Gabe is learning every step of the business as an apprentice in the family cheese business. The goal is for Vella Cheese to continue under family ownership for generations to come, making the rich dry jack cheese that many Sonoma County residents consider a staple on the pantry. “It’s certainly my hope that this will continue,” said Ig Vella, who still arrives at work each day at 7:30 a.m. and leaves at 6:30 p.m. Going to Vella Cheese is like stepping back in time or visiting a cheese shop in a Tuscan village. The old stonewalled building where Vella cheese is made was built in 1904 to house a brewery, which thrived until Prohibition. In 1931 Tom Vella and his wife Zolita Clerici Vella converted the old brewery to a cheese making plant, launching the cheese company that has been in business for nearly 80 years. Ig Vella has an office adjacent to the retail store, often holding court with civic leaders, politicos or budding cheese makers. For many, he is the town padrone, a wise leader who listens and advises. Since 2000, Davis of The Epicurian Connection and Vella have worked together to put on the Sonoma Valley Cheese Conference, a three-day gathering to educate and inspire cheese makers. Next year’s conference is Feb. 20-23 at MacArthur Place in Sonoma. Past conferences have attracted 300 people including national and international cheese makers and those who want to become cheese makers.

Ignazio Vella, the patriarch of Vella Cheese Co., a Sonoma Landmark for nearly 80 years which is now in the forth generation. Photo by Joan Geary Davis said Ig Vella is like a Pied Piper, leading the way for other cheese makers to find their special niche in the cheese world. He encourages young people to get into farmstead artisan cheesemaking. Vella does not worry about the competition from the cheese upstarts. For him, the more the merrier when it comes to specialty cheesemakers. Vella and Davis both want Sonoma County to become the epicenter of America’s artisan cheesemaking, believing value-added products like cheese will play a key role in preserving Sonoma County’s dairy industry and rich agricultural heritage. “When I was in high school I went to talk to Ig . He’s the one who encouraged me to explore a career in food and cheesemaking,” said Davis, who founded The Epicurean Connection in 1992 to educate chefs and retailers about quality food and sustainable agriculture. She also makes her own cheese, Delice de la Vallee, a blend of cow and goat milk cheese, that is distributed nationally. Ig Vella said there is continuity at his cheese company, from the cows providing the milk to the cheesemakers who craft the Dry Jack and other cheeses. He doesn’t want to tamper with a thing. The cheese cultures, the care, the personal hands-on techniques, even the old curing rooms with the wooden racks, are the same. “But most of all the quality is the same and we are proud of that,” said Vella. 73

October 2009

Farming on the Edge of Marin and Sonoma Counties

ith his movie-star smile and Beverly Hills pedigree, David Retsky, 37, looks more like a Hollywood talent agent than a Petaluma dirt farmer. But Retsky, dubbed The Beverly Hillbilly by San Francisco Magazine, is a real dirtunder-the-fingernails farmer who is profitably producing dozens of different crops on more than 30 acres of farmland in Marin County. He sells his organic produce - arugula, escarole, mustard greens and other leafy veggies - to some of San Francisco’s finest dining establishments and at leading Farmers Markets including the San Francisco Ferry Plaza. For a farmer, getting into those upscale markets is like a struggling actor getting the starring role in a big film. “I am proud of myself for what I have done as a farmer. I am feeding lots of people,” said Retsky, a doctor’s son who grew up privileged in Beverly Hills. Today, as a tenant farmer he lives simply and remains flexible, always open to new possibilities. His farm office is a converted cargo container where the phone, computer and fax machine keep orders for produce rolling to restaurants and retailers from Bodega Bay to Palo Alto. Retsky discovered farming somewhere between spending time in a kibbutz in Israel and getting a certificate in ecological horticulture from the U.C. Santa Cruz farm and garden program. Growing up in Beverly Hills, Retsky yearned to farm when other kids wanted to be firemen or astronauts. He wanted to grow things, dig in the dirt, drive tractors. “I remember watching our gardener as a kid and being fascinated,” said Retsky, a single father of three-year-old Nico. Retsky doesn’t know where his urge to farm originated. “No one has a green thumb in my family. I am definitely a first generation farmer.” Even after being in farming for nearly 10 years, Retsky’s family still wonders about his chosen profession when they venture to the North Bay from Beverly Hills. The sniff at the dust and the smell of the compost that is concocted from duck and chicken manure. “When my family comes up to visit they’re like ‘Okay, wow, this is different…OK it’s time to go’,” said Retsky. But in many ways this first-generation tenant farmer and Beverly Hills transplant is leading the way by showing established ranchers what can be done on pasture land no longer used for dairy or livestock production. Retsky credits his success to his passion for farming and some old-fashioned business sense and marketing savvy. Retsky got his start in 2000 leasing six acres at the Garzelli Ranch in Petaluma. He had acquired an old T-6 Crawler tractor and other used farming equipment from a Half Moon Bay farmer going out of business. “I borrowed $50,000 from my mother to get started in farming. I paid her back in three years and have never taken out another loan,” said Retsky. “I kept expanding with the profits I earned and by using old equipment and a lot of hard work. It’s worked.”” The Garzelli Ranch is in Sonoma County but close to the Marin County line. The ranch’s geographic positioning spawned the name County Line Harvest for Retsky’s farming business, which today is based in Marin County but near the Sonoma County border. This is an area where county lines get blurred. Your postal address may be Petaluma but the ranch can be in Sonoma or Marin counties. Or both.

The name County Line Harvest appears on the menus of white-table cloth restaurants throughout the Bay Area, identifying the source of the squash blossoms or snap peas on the dinner plate. Retsky jokes that his produce ends up in restaurants he can’t afford to eat in. Much of Retsky’s vegetable production is sold through Greenleaf Produce and distributed throughout the San Francisco Bay Area. In 2007, Retsky relocated his farming operation to Marin County. He is leasing the Dolcini Ranch on Red Hill Road where fertile flatland soil and abundant water have allowed him to expand his farming operation to 32 acres. The former dairy ranch, which is being leased to Retsky by brother and sister Doug and Kitty Dolcini, has been protected with an agricultural easement through the Marin Agricultural Land Trust or MALT. “David is one of the new, young farmers in Marin that will shape our future, as our agricultural community continues to diversify. His hard work and steady vision are now producing some of the finest cool weather produce in the North Bay,” said Steve Quirt of the University of California Cooperative Extension in Marin County. Quirt said Redsky’s partnering with the Dolcinis is a model for Marin County farmland. “By combining David’s entrepreneurial vision with the Dolcini ranch resources, both families are able to benefit and thrive. Both parties are showing that a diversified farming operation can be profitable and exciting,” said Quirt. Retsky employs eight people year-round with additional seasonal help during the busy times of the year. The farmer feels a responsibility for not only growing clean, healthy food but for providing work for his loyal employees who, he says, can run the farm in his absence. “The farm is like a small community,” said Retsky. He said one of the most valuable life lessons he has learned is to be a good listener – to listen to his employees and to the chefs at the restaurants that use his produce. “It’s so important to listen to the needs of those you are serving,” said Retsky. Retsky is an agricultural visionary. He believes in protecting farmland and encourages young people who want to farm. County Line Harvest offers three month internships, teaching the basics of organic farming and land stewardship. It’s very rewarding for Retksy to mentor young people with a passion for growing. He sees himself in many of the young people eager to farm. “We need farmers,” said Retsky. “We’ve helped other farmers get started and still we can’t meet the huge demand for organic vegetables.” But there are those days when Retsky gets nervous as he looks out over the lush fields and the rows and rows of baby greens. On occasion he wonders “Who’s gonna buy all this food?” But the phone rings and the fax machine rolls out the new orders for the day to keep the produce moving from farm to table. “There’s not a person who wakes up and says ‘I’m not gonna eat today.’ People eat every day. They may skip a meal,” said Retsky. “They may not eat vegetables all the time. But there’s only so much junk food you can eat before you gravitate back to what’s good for you.”

Left: David Retsky and his son Nico in the fields of County Line Harvest at the Dolcini Ranch in Marin County. Retksy is a Beverly Hills transplant who has become one of the region’s most successful organic vegetable growers. Photo by Perfect Circle Photography

“We need farmers. We’ve helped other farmers get started and still we can’t meet the huge demand for organic vegetables.” ~ David Retsky 75

November 2009

Thanksgiving Bounty Awaits Along the Farm Trails of Sonoma County

The 11-year-old Holland twins, Alexander, left, and Nicholas of Sebastopol are among the dozen 4-H and FFA members raising 200 heritage turkeys for the Thanksgiving holiday. The Holland twins raise their turkeys on their grandparentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Gleason Ranch in Bodega. The heritage turkey project is coordinated through Slow Foods Russian River. Photo by Cindy Holland

t speaks to the diversity of Sonoma County agriculture that all of the main ingredients for the traditional Thanksgiving feast â&#x20AC;&#x201C; except for the cranberries and bread stuffing are grown on county farms.

And even better, the Thanksgiving fare can be purchased directly from the farmers who produced it. Talk about the bounty of Sonoma County. Everything from apples to turkeys, potatoes to pumpkins, parsnips to organic butter is available along the county back roads 76

or at one of the farmers markets held nearly every day of the week at some location. Even those planning an untraditional Thanksgiving dinner can fill the menu. Goat cheese, Asian pears, duck or arugula? It’s down on the farm. Given the range of raw products, anyone feeling the Pilgrim spirit could spend a day in the countryside gathering food for the Thanksgiving meal while soaking up the autumnal beauty of Sonoma County. A trek to Walker Apples in Graton, Tierra Vegetables in Santa Rosa or Kozlowksi Farms in Forestville would ease you into the spirit of this most American of holidays. A trip to a farm sure beats fighting for the last box of Pepperidge Farms cornbread stuffing mix in an air-conditioned supermarket. But instead of wandering aimlessly along rural back roads in search of Thanksgiving fare, pick up a Sonoma County Farm Trails Map, which will guide you on your pilgrimage for fresh, locally-grown food for the holiday table. The Farm Trials Map & Guide is free and available at chamber of commerce offices and Sonoma County Farm Bureau, 970 Piner Road in Santa Rosa. “In Sonoma County, we’re lucky to have such a strong farming community,” said Lynda Browning, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Trails. “It’s possible to cook an entire Thanksgiving meal out of local ingredients grown by our farmers. Of course, if you want stuffing in your turkey, you might have to broaden your rules and shop at a local bakery -- but pretty much everything else, including the turkey, can be found at local farms” Browning cautions that as winter approaches some locally-grown produce will be gone before Thanksgiving so plan ahead. “If you need a wide variety of produce to cook with, don’t be afraid to shop a little ahead. Some farmers will have corn, green beans, and tomatoes in early November but probably won’t still have them by Thanksgiving,” said Browning. “So snap up the last of summer’s bounty while you can and freeze it for use in a few weeks. If you need bigger quantities than are usually available at the farmers market, talk to your farmer the week before and see if you can pre-order a larger amount.” The Farm Trails Map & Guide lists more than 100 farms, ranches, wineries, farm retail stores and restaurants that are members of Sonoma County Farm Trials, the direct marketing organization. Farm Trails was founded in 1973 by a handful of Sonoma County farmers determined to eliminate the middleman so they could survive as family farmers. Today, Farm Trails has come to represent the small family farmer and Sonoma County’s sustainable agricultural diversity. Some Farm Trails’ members also belong to Sonoma County Farm Bureau, the county’s largest agricultural organization. As a grassroots organization, Farm Bureau helped launch Farm Trails in the early 1970s to promote on-site farm sales. Built on the theme, “Everything from Apples to Zucchini,” Farm Trails continues to showcase the bounty and diversity of Sonoma County, particularly during the abundance of autumn. The first order of business for the Thanksgiving shopping is to secure the turkey, the centerpiece of the meal. The turkey will require some pre-planning because the big bird needs to be ordered weeks ahead of the holiday. Willie Bird Turkeys, founded by Willie Benedetti when he was a member of the FFA, raises free range organic turkeys on farms in Sonoma and Marin counties. The Willie Bird retail store is at 5350 Highway 12 between Santa Rosa and Sebastopol. To order a Willie Bird call 542-2832. If you want a turkey with a trace of Pilgrim ancestry, you can order a bird through Slow Food Russian River, which is on a mission to preserve farm animals, fruits and vegetables threatened with extinction. Slow Food, an organization dedicated to the pleasures of the table, works with Sonoma County farmers and members of the 4-H and FFA to raise and market heritage turkeys. Heritage turkeys are old turkey breeds like the Bourbon Red,

Bronze and Narragansett that are no longer in commercial production. They have been sidelined by the hybrid, balloon-breasted white turkey, which comprises 99.9 percent of the commercial market. But the pioneer turkeys are making a comeback. This year, a dozen Sonoma County 4-H and FFA members are raising 200 heritage turkeys, which will be slaughtered the weekend before Thanksgiving. The kids even get involved in dressing – or undressing - the turkeys for their Thanksgiving debut. A plucking part is the finale of the turkey-raising project. “We get the turkeys when they are babies and raise them until they are big and ready to be harvested. I like this project because we are involved from the start until the end,” said Nicolas Holland, 11, of Sebastopol. Nicholas and his twin brother Alexander are raising 60 turkeys as part of the Slow Food Heritage Turkey Project. The Holland twins, members of the Independence 4-H Club, are fifth graders at Pinecrest School in Sebastopol. They are fifth generation members of the pioneer Gleason ranching family. The boys also raise pigs, steers and rabbits, keeping their farm animal menagerie at their grandparents’ Gleason Ranch in Bodega. Orders are still being accepted for the heritage turkeys raised by the Holland twins and other farm youth. Go to www.slowfoodrr.org. Jim Reichardt of Liberty Ducks is coordinating the turkey project. He can be reached at 480-0379. There’s no shortage of farms offering the potatoes that can be whipped or mashed for Thanksgiving. Foggy Bottom Farm, operated by Emmett Hopkins and Lynda Browning, grow four different kinds of potatoes – Yukon Gold, Red Norland, All Blue and Russian Banana Fingerlings. Hopkins peddles his potatoes and other produce including winter squash, beets, carrots and greens at the Healdsburg and Windsor farmers markets. Foggy Bottom Farm also markets boxes of produce to customers through a Community Supported Agriculture program. Potatoes also are available at Petaluma Bounty Farm in Petaluma and Imwalle Gardens in Santa Rosa. Check the Farm Trails map for other farms offering potatoes. Don’t forget the butter for the potatoes and dinner rolls. There is no better butter than McClelland’s Dairy Artisan Organic Butter, which is marketed by Jana McClelland of McClelland’s Dairy in Two Rock. The McClellands also produce the wonderful Clover Farmstead Butter with Sea Salt. Jana McClelland sells her butter at local markets. For vegetable side dishes like carrots and parsnips, visit Oak Hill Farm at 15101 Sonoma Highway in Glen Ellen. Oak Hill offers a wide array of produce as well as fresh and dried flowers and handcrafted wreaths for fall decorating. Tierra Vegetables, a farm planted on Open Space District land at 651 Airport Boulevard in Santa Rosa, also has a variety of veggies to laden the Thanksgiving table. Persimmon pudding anyone? Gabriel Farms, owned and operated by Lucy and Torrey Olson, offers Fuyu persimmons along with Asian pears as well as processed delights like Asian pear blackberry conserve. There are more than two dozens places to buy fresh Sonoma County apples and pumpkins for the pies to top off the Thanksgiving dinner. Walker Apples at 10955 Upp Road, off Graton Road, grows 27 varieties of apples including heirloom varieties like Arkansas Blacks and Pink Pearl. Apple-A-Day Ratzlaff Ranch at 13128 Occidental Road in Sebastopol has fresh apples until February and fresh frozen apple juice all year. Fresh apples and already-made apple and berry pies are waiting at Kozlowski Farms at 5566 Gravenstein Highway in Forestville. The store at Kozlowski Farms is warm and friendly, a perfect place to pick up Christmas gifts with a Sonoma County flavor. From apple pies to turkeys, the Thanksgiving meal awaits along the Farm Trail in Sonoma County. 77

December 2009

Wine Industry Icon Louis Foppiano Celebrates 99th Birthday with Vintage Memories W

ine industry icon Louis J. Foppiano, the patriarch of one of Sonoma County’s oldest continuing wineries, celebrated his 99th birthday amid toasts and tributes from his family and friends in the wine industry. Celebrants vowed to do it all again in 2010 when the unflappable Foppiano reaches a century on the vine. A living legend in the wine industry, Foppiano was feted on Nov. 21 at a party held in the cellar of the historic winery and vineyards that have been owned by the Foppiano family since 1896. Old wine families with names like Seghesio, Pedroncelli and Gallo came to honor the wine industry pioneer who held on to the family’s winery and vineyards through the Great Depression, Prohibition, two World Wars, droughts and market downturns. Fifth generation family members now work in the vineyards and winery, continuing a family tradition that makes the family patriarch proud. It’s a continuity that is both familiar and comforting to Foppiano who has watched the winery and vineyards pass through the generations for a century. “Our family just keeps farming the vineyards and producing wine like we’ve always done. I am proud of that,” said Foppiano as he sipped his favorite petite sirah and ate chocolate birthday cake, a winning combination. During the party, Foppiano sat in a comfortable chair and graciously greeted guests, thanking them for joining him in celebrating his 99th birthday. Foppiano was hailed for his longevity, hard work, tenacity and leadership in the wine industry. Early on, Foppiano realized to survive in the wine industry he had to get out and sell the wine produced from his family vineyards. The Healdsburg farm boy hit the road to sell Foppiano wine in unfamiliar cities like Chicago and New York even though he would have preferred to drive tractors and fish in the Russian River. He still admonishes the younger generations: “You can’t sell wine sitting on a tractor.” Tributes poured in from across the country for Foppiano, who helped Sonoma County make the transition from jug wine backwater to premium player on the world’s wine stage. For decades he was a respected leader in the wine industry, founding the Sonoma County Wine Growers Association in 1942 and serving as its president. Today, the Wine Growers Association has evolved into the Sonoma County Vintners, with more than 200 winery members. “Like the iconic California wines that carry your name, you have stood the test of time. Thank you for your vision and tenacity in helping to build the California wine Industry. I am proud to represent your winery and am excited to be part of its future. Happy Birthday Louis,” said Laura Taffe Balderelli, who is mid-Atlantic manager for the San Francisco Wine Exchange, which markets Foppiano wines throughout the United States. Balderilli’s message was among a dozen tributes read to Foppiano by Hugh Thacker, president of the San Francisco Wine Exchange. Todd Arterburn, who was named president of Foppiano Wine Co. last August, said he left the corporate wine world to head Foppiano because of the family atmosphere and the

dedication to the vineyards, which he said are the showcase of Foppiano wines. “The Foppiano winery and vineyards have stood the test of time, offering a proud legacy after 113 years. This winery and the Foppiano family bring authenticity, legitimacy and longevity to their business. With values like those we know what the next 100 years will look like at Foppiano Wine Co.,” said Arterburn. One of the most touching tributes came from Syliva Soto of Healdsburg. She thanked Foppiano for giving her father Vincent Soto a job when he came from Mexico through the Bracero program in the 1950’s. Soto said Foppiano gave her father a start and, eventually, he was able to fulfill his dream of buying a small ranch of his own in the Dry Creek Valley. Vincent Soto passed away but his family still resides on the family ranch where Soto grew wine grapes and the best Bermuda onions on the planet. Foppiano is a longtime member of Farm Bureau. Two years ago he was inducted into the Sonoma County Farm Bureau Hall of Fame in recognition of his monumental contributions to the wine industry and his deep roots in Sonoma County agriculture. As a member of the Hall of Fame, he is among a respected group of agricultural leaders and pioneer ranchers who have been the guiding force in preserving, protecting and propelling Sonoma County’s $3 billion farming industry. A man of the soil, Foppiano spent his life growing grapes, making wine and, artfully, selling the vintages his family produces. He’s battled vineyard pests, creepy bureaucrats and depressed markets to hold on to the family land. Today, the family’s winery and vineyards are managed by Foppiano’s children, Louis M. Foppiano, who is general manager of the winery, and Susan Valera, who is the manager of hospitality and special events. Foppiano’s grandson, fifth generation family member Paul Foppiano, 35, manages the family’s 140 acres of vineyards in the Russian River Valley appellation. Paul is the son of the late Rod Foppiano, one of Louis J. Foppiano’s three children. Rod died from leukemia in 1984. Paul Foppiano has a 4 year old daughter, Gianna Foppiano, who is the sixth generation of the Foppiano family. The family’s wine legacy started more than a century ago when the senior Foppiano’s grandfather, Giovanni Foppiano, left Genoa, Italy to start a new life in America. He arrived in New York and then traveled to California by way of Panama looking for gold. In 1864, Giovanni gave up gold mining for farming when he settled on fertile ground along the Russian River in Healdsburg. His son, Louis A. Foppiano, the father of Louis J. Foppiano, was born in 1877. Louis A. married Mathilda, the sister of one of his North Beach wine customers. The marriage took place after three “arranged” dates in Mathilda’s family home in San Francisco. When Louis A. died in 1925, Louis J. Foppiano inherited the responsibility of managing the family winery during a time when winemaking wasn’t the glamour industry it is today. In 1937, after the repeal of Prohibition, Foppiano rebuilt the winery from the ground up and started making wine again. Foppiano Wine Company became one of the first Sonoma 78

Wine industry pioneers joined in toasting Louis Foppiano on his 99th birthday. Pictured, left to right, Jim Pedroncelli, Eugenie Bugatto, Henry Buggatto, Rachel Ann Seghesio and John Pedroncelli. Photo by M.J. Wickham County wineries to bottle wine under its own winery label. In 1946, Louis J. married Della Bastoni, a member of the family that owns Franco America bakery in Santa Rosa. The couple was married for 56 years, and raised three children, Louis M., Rod, and Susan Foppiano. Della Foppiano, a woman of simple elegance who dutifully served as the wine familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s matriarch for a half-century, died on Nov. 21, 2002. Like the old Petite Sirah vines that dot his estate vineyards, Foppiano is a pioneering survivor deeply anchored to Sonoma County soil. These days he doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t venture far from

his home in the vineyards but remains interested in the business that has been a way-of-life. In his lifetime he has experienced family losses, industry challenges, changing technology, and a renaissance in the wine industry that continues to evolve each day. At 99, Louis J. Foppiano is one of the few California vintners who can boast that his winery spans six generations and is poised to be under family ownership well into this century. And best of all, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a family business where some decisions are still made standing around the hood of the vineyard pickup truck. 79

January 2010

Sheep Dairy Thrives in Cow Country

Three generations of the Callahan family, on their Bellwether Farmsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; sheep dairy in Petaluma. Family matriarch Cindy Callahan, who founded the sheep dairy, sits on the bed of the pickup with her grandson, Will. Other family members on the dairy are grandson Connor, daughter-in-law Diana and son Liam Callahan. Photo by Jim Hughes 80

hen city slicker Cindy Callahan started milking sheep on her Petaluma farm in 1990 her ranching neighbors dismissed her as an idealistic San Francisco kook with just another harebrained farming scheme. No way would she succeed, said her detractors. They gave her six months, no more than a year before she would fold up and head back to the city, giving up the crazy notion of milking sheep. Today, 20 years later Cindy and her son Liam are milking 250 ewes on their Bellwether Farms in Petaluma and making sheep milk cheese that has earned international recognition and a Pied Piper-like following. “Everyone was saying that crazy woman from San Francisco is going to milk sheep. Well, I am still milking sheep and doing very well at it,” said Cindy with a wry smile. “No one knew me or the determination I have.” No one, that is, except her late husband Ed Callahan who had always admired – and encouraged - Cindy’s stick-to-it-iveness. “Ed always said that I didn’t start something that I didn’t finish,” said Cindy. “And I’m not finished yet.” Cindy, who is 74 years old, is in the barn at 5:30 a.m. every day overseeing the morning milking and looking over her flock of sheep like the wise shepherd she has become. Pretty good, considering that Cindy, a former nurse, had never touched a sheep until moving to her 34-acre Petaluma ranch. She and her husband had acquired a few sheep to eat the grass on the property. Then, a friend, familiar with the sheep dairies in Europe, suggested Cindy consider milking her sheep and making cheese. It launched a family farming legacy that has helped gild Sonoma County’s reputation as California’s premier wine and food region. Bellwether Farms was California’s original sheep dairy and until 2004 the only sheep dairy in the state. “That one innocent act triggered a series of events that placed our family in the forefront of the American revival in artisan cheese making,” said Liam Callahan, who joined the family business 20 years ago and now serves as general manager, cheesemaker and all around fix-it guy. “This venture also tapped into the best in each of us and resulted in a work that feels more like a creative process than toil and labor.” Smart and capable, Liam loves sheep ranching and cheese making because he produces something with his hands that customers around the country appreciate and want to buy. “Our philosophy? Use the highest quality milk available to make the best cheeses possible. Period,” said Liam, who earned a degree in political economy from U.C. Berkeley before returning to the farm. “At the end of the day, I have made something real. I like that. All of my friends from college were taking jobs at companies where they had to worry about other people’s problems. Here I work toward the family goals that my mother and I have set for ourselves.” Cindy and Liam took basic courses in the science of cheesemaking at Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo and Washington State University and then traveled extensively in Italy and France to study the techniques of old-working cheesemaking. They focused on the sheep dairies in Tuscany where a Pecorino cheese is made from sheep’s milk. “I would literally knock on doors at a sheep farm and ask if I could spend the day working with them to learn the cheesemaking techniques that they have used for hundreds of years,” said Liam. “Most of the farmers were honored to share their cheesemaking knowledge while wondering why someone from California would want to milk sheep and make cheese. To them California was all palm trees and beaches.” Liam said studying the different cheesemakers in Italy and their varying styles gave him the confidence to explore the flavors of the milk produced on his Petaluma ranch and to bring out the preferred flavors – and uniqueness - in his aged cheeses.

“By controlling the moisture level and the acid development we were able to explore flavors we found in our milk and cheeses to make a cheese that has a much smoother mouth feel and complex depth of flavor yet retains its classic sheep milk characteristics,” said Liam. Liam’s wife Diana works at the Bellwether Farms office, handling marketing and other duties. The couple has two boys, Connor, 9, and Will, 5, who may one day follow their grandmother and parents in the family farming business. In addition to sheep milk cheese, Bellwether Farms produces a cows’ milk cheese that uses rich Jersey milk from the neighboring Bianchi Dairy in Valley Ford. Bellwether makes three different Italian-style cow’s milk cheeses, Carmody, Carmody Reserve and Crescenza. The aged sheep’s milk cheeses are its San Andreas and Pepato. Bellwether Farms also makes three fresh cheeses – fromage blanc, crème fraiche and ricotta – as well as sheep milk yogurt. The sheep milk cheeses and yogurts are in such high demand, the Callahans can’t produce enough product from their own flock of sheep. They buy additional milk from a sheep dairy in Nebraska. The milk is shipped frozen in 45 pound units. In addition to the cheese and yogurt, Bellwether Farms sells more than 300 lambs a year to high-end Bay Area and Wine Country restaurants including the acclaimed French Laundry restaurant in Yountville. Bellwether’s small milk-fed lambs are 30 to 40 days old when they are slaughtered. The young age gives the lambs a delicate “European” flavor prized by chefs. January is the beginning of lambing season, which is Cindy’s favorite time of the year on the farm. Over the next several months, hundreds of lambs will hit the ground. Some days the baaing and bleating of the newborn lambs is enough to wake the dead. “I still look forward to the lambing season every year,” said Cindy. “Every time a lamb gets up and starts nursing I breathe a sigh of relief.” There are plenty of lambs to worry about because the sheep breeds used for milking are very prolific, often producing triplets or quads. Bellwether Farms milking flock is primarily East Friesian sheep but recently the Callahans have been crossbreeding with Lacaune, a French bred that is like the Jersey of sheep. Lacaunes produce less volume of milk but their milk has higher solids, which is key to cheesemaking. Bellwether Farms’ ewes produce two to three quarts of milk a day. Cindy said dairy sheep in the United States have not made the tremendous strides in milk production that dairy cows have made. She said the sheep industry would greatly benefit from a program like the Dairy Herd Improvement Association’s testing and culling program. “It’s very difficult to get any new genetics into dairy sheep breeding programs in the United States. In the whole country there are mainly three lines of dairy sheep and it’s very difficult to get tested semen,” said Cindy. Bellwether Farm does not milk in November and December because the ewes, seasonal breeders, lamb in January, February and March and then dry up in fall. Cindy said that is about to change, her goal is to move to year-around milking by “seeding” ewes to induce ovulation so some lambs are born in the fall. “This will allow us to milk year around, which would provide benefits in making and marketing our products while better utilizing our workers who do the milking,” said Cindy. Looking back, Cindy marvels at the series of events – almost happenstance – that have landed her and her family in a farming enterprise that is both rewarding and profitable. “It’s been amazing,” said Cindy. 81

February 2010

Angelo Ibleto, “The Sausage King,” Reigns in Petaluma

Country butcher Angelo Ibleto, 76, makes 18 different varieties of sausage and produces other specialty meats and food products at Angelo’s Meats in Petaluma. He has been a fixture in Sonoma County for more than 30 years and plans to be stuffing sausage for many more years. 82

f Arturo Ibleto is the “Pasta King,” then his younger brother Angelo Ibleto is the undisputed “Sausage King” of Sonoma County, maybe all of California. Over the last 30 years, Angelo, the proprietor of Angelo’s Meats on Adobe Road in Petaluma and Angelo’s Wine Country Deli on Arnold Drive in Sonoma, has stuffed miles of sausage links, delectable stomach-stretchers like his Hawaiian Portuguese, Italian, linguica and chorizo. He’s won many grand champion awards for his sausages, smoked meats and marinated tri-tips at the California Association of Meat Processors competition. “People love good, hearty homemade sausage and travel for miles to get it,” said Angelo in his signature Italian accent. Angelo epitomizes the old-fashioned country butcher, offering not only top-quality sausages and other meats but friendly banter to those coming to his shop. He’s happy, gregarious and loves people. He’s been voted Petaluma’s most colorful character by readers of Petaluma Magazine. “By the time a person comes into the shop for the second time, I know where they live, what they do, if he likes his job, how many years he’s got to retire, all that stuff,” said Angelo, wielding a sharp knife as he hacks off a dozen sausages hanging in the cooler. Angelo makes 18 different sausage varieties in all, often starting at 5 o’clock in the morning, grinding meat and measuring spices with the precision of a chemist. “All of my 18 varieties of sausage have one ingredient in common: garlic,” said Angelo, who is 76. “I’m a garlic freak.’ Angelo and his brother Arturo, both bigger than life characters, are Sonoma County treasures who have made good food as much a part of the county’s landscape as the vineyards and grazing cattle. Arturo, who is 83, has perfected pasta and polenta at his little Italy outpost in Cotati. Angelo is the maestro of meat, a man whose work-worn fingers resemble the fat Italian sausages that have become his tasty trademark. Angelo has been in Sonoma County for more than 30 years. When he arrived in Petaluma from Italy, he wasn’t carrying his family’s secret sausage recipe. His family didn’t have a sausage recipe, they were farmers. Angelo grew up on a small diversified farm in the village of Sesta Godano in the Liguria region of Northern Italy. His family wasn’t the poorest family in the village but he said it was a tough living and everyone was forced to work from sunup to sundown. “I think that’s why I became addicted to work,” said Angelo. After leaving the farm, he worked as a cop in Rome and a plainclothes detective in Genoa. He liked law enforcement but heard stories about America from his older brother Art who had landed in Sonoma County and was building his business empire. For many years, the Brothers Ibleto were in business together, slaughtering ranch raised steers, hogs and lamb and then cutting and wrapping the meat. They were among about two dozen home slaughtering businesses operating in Sonoma County during the 70’s and 80’s. Today there are only a couple custom slaughters left in business, reflecting the changing times and agricultural landscape in Sonoma County. “No one wants to bother with raising a beef for the freezer anymore,” said Angelo, who witnessed the trend and began the transition to sausage making and specialty meats. He learned sausage making on his own, importing Italian spices to make authentic Italian sausages. He said his sausage recipe is an open secret. “Some people go to Florence and Rome to buy Italian gold. I go to Torino in Italy to buy sausage spices,” said Angelo. He still has sisters and a brother in Italy, brother Aldo, 87, and sisters Amabile, 81, and Angela, 71. Today Angelo doesn’t do any custom slaughtering or cutting and wrapping. He’s the king of sausage. But sausages are not the only products made at the little old country store and smoke house on the Petaluma farm where Angelo and his family - wife, Frances and daughters,

Alison and Angela - live and work. He has two grandsons, Jake, 18, and Bill, 15, who are continuing the family farming tradition by raising rabbit and Japanese quail. George Mazzoleni, a member of a longtime Sonoma County ranching family, works as Angelo’s assistant in the store on Adobe Road. In addition to sausage, Angelo smokes bacons and hams and makes marinated tri-tips. He does catering for weddings and corporate parties. A roasted pig, stuffed with pork roast and other goodies, is Angelo’s specialty for catered events. For three years running, Angelo has been the official pig smoker for the Bohemian Grove, the summer camp for the rich and famous along the Russian River in Guerneville. Angelo’s jerky keeps the cash register ringing. People from Florida and New Hampshire order his jerky, which he makes daily to keep up with the demand. Angelo and his assistants make about 70 pounds of jerky a day, selling it at both shops and through a growing mailorder business run by his wife and daughters. He makes eight different kinds of jerky including teriyaki, plan, Cajun, hot peppered and, of course, garlic. Angelo also makes salsa, stuffed olives and barbecue sauce, offering a changing inventory of food products that reflect his creativity and work ethic. He never stops working – or thinking - and scoffs at the idea of retiring. It’s not in his genes. “Retirement is not in the equation,” he said. Angelo, proud to be an American, recently sent a military-size shipment of his jerky to soldiers in Iraq and Afghanistan, providing them a taste of home. The grateful soldiers sent Angelo a photograph to thank him. There are 25 soldiers in the photograph holding a banner that says, “Thank You Angelo for the Best Jerky in the World! All the Way from Afghanistan.” Angelo has the photograph hanging on his shop along with other photographs of memorable visitors like Huey Lewis of Huey Lewis & The News and Tippi Hedren, the actress who starred in Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds.” Angelo said he loves getting up every day to start working, whether it’s making sausage or smoking bacon, chopping veggies for salsa or stuffing olives with garlic. It’s always an adventure, one day he might be a catering job with his roast pig as the centerpiece. Or catering the food for a wedding or funeral reception. “I love it, every minute of the day,” said Angelo. “I feel sorry for those poor bastards who go to a job every day that they hate. I have never known that feeling.”

March 2010

Record Crowd Feasts at Farm Bureau’s Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest Fresh crab, gold medal wines and country camaraderie combined to make Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest a grand night of feasting, bidding and socializing for a record 1,250 people

the Healdsburg City Council, has been endorsed by Sonoma County Farm Bureau to fill the position formerly held by Paul Kelley, who is not seeking re-election. Guests enjoyed more than 4,000 pounds of Dungeness crab in addition to gallons of clam chowder, pasta, salad and dessert, all polished off with fine wines from Sonoma County. Hovering over the 1,250 guests during the entire night was a giant, 30 foot wide inflatable crab that added to the festive atmosphere of what many guests called a great party. At the event’s live auction, guests bid on special lots ranging from a medieval feast for

he 21st annual Crab Fest, held Feb. 6 in the Grace Pavilion of the Sonoma County Fairgrounds, is a benefit that raises money for agricultural education and scholarships. Getting bigger and better each year, the Crab Fest has become the winter social event for the county’s agricultural and business communities and their friends and supporters. “The event is truly one of a kind. Not only was I impressed with the incredible turn out and organization, but I was also amazed by the generosity of all the folks who were there to support local agriculture and the scholarship funds,” said Mike McGuire, a candidate for 4th District Sonoma County Supervisor. McGuire, who currently serves on 84

20 at the spectacular Castello di Amorosa in Calistoga to a trophy buck hunt at the historic Cooley Ranch in Cloverdale. Bidders purchased cave dinners donated by Kunde Estate Winery in Glen Ellen and Robert Young Estate Vineyards in Geyserville. Auctioneer Rex Williams of Sebastopol kept the banter and bidding going strong during the auction. Auction items like a stainless steel grape gondola from the Guadagni Bros in Dry Creek Valley and a dinner of locally grown “pork and pinot” clearly indicates that this is an event where both donors and guests are closely connected to the land and the county’s annual $3 billion agriculture industry. Many of the people who come together to orchestrate the crab feed or donate wine, food and auction items are dedicated to preserving Sonoma County’s rich agricultural heritage. The volunteers who help stage the event also believe a strong and viable agricultural industry is essential to maintaining what many consider the heart and soul of Sonoma County. “It’s so gratifying to see agriculture come together for Farm Bureau’s Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest. This event not only gives people a chance to see old friends and enjoy fresh crab from our coast but to raise money for agriculture education, which is so important,” said Santa Rosa rancher Bob Muelrath, president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Muelrath said the fresh-faced 4-H’ers and FFA members who helped serve at the Crab Fest best tell the story of why Farm Bureau members and staff work so hard to keep agriculture viable and visible. “This is a tremendous event that shows the spirit of our great county,” said Joe Pozzi, a Bodega livestock rancher and first vice president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. The Crab and Wine Fest is a totally home-grown event staged by Farm Bureau members and staff with the assistance of an army of volunteers. Many of the groups benefiting from Farm Bureau’s agriculture education program pitch in to help set up tables, decorate and serve the meal. Joining the work crew were volunteers from the Santa Rosa Junior College Ag Ambassadors, FFA, 4-H and the Santa Rosa High School Ag Boosters. Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, said Farm Bureau is committed to providing agricultural education to youth, adults and community leaders so they can better understand the unique aspects of farming, no matter if it’s dairy cows, horses or vineyards. He said the proceeds from the crab fest are used to bring agriculture to those who would otherwise not benefit from a farm experience. One of Farm Bureau’s major educational efforts is Ag Days, which have been held for 30 years to bring a taste of farm life to city kids. Last year more than 5,000 school children came to the Sonoma County Fairgrounds for Ag Days, which includes livestock displays, a hay maze, horsemanship demonstrations and samples of Sonoma County farm products like apples, cheese and milk. This year’s Ag Days are March 24 and 25. As part of Ag Days, Farm Bureau also sponsors a number of contests including essay, poster, book mark, scarecrow, mural and photography contests for school children. The contests are a way to get kids thinking about the Sonoma County farms that unfold on the urban fringe. The theme of this year’s celebration is “Family Farms Keep Things Growing.” Farm Bureau also uses the proceeds from the crab fest to support farm youth organizations like the FFA and 4-H and to fund agricultural scholarships. Last year, the Farm Bureau Foundation awarded more than $30,000 in scholarships to students studying agriculture at college. “We take great pride in preparing individuals for careers in agriculture through our scholarship programs,” said McCorvey.

Sonoma County poultry rancher Arnie Riebli, a partner in Sunrise Farms, gave Farm Bureau’s scholarship program a tremendous boost by donating $5,000 to assist in students in their agricultural education. Other major scholarship donors are Clover-Stornetta Farms in Petaluma, NuCal Foods in Ripon, Dairymens Feed in Petaluma, Beretta Organic Dairy in Santa Rosa and Opperman & Son in Healdsburg. Farm Bureau’s crab feed has grown from a few hundred people to more than a thousand. When it started 21 years ago, the Great Sonoma Crab & Wine Fest was held at the Sebastopol Veterans Memorial Building and then, as it grew, to the Santa Rosa Veterans Memorial Building. Six years ago, the Crab Fest moved to the Grace Pavilion at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds to accommodate the ever-growing numbers of people who now consider it a traditional event on their social calendar. “Thanks to everyone who made the Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest such a wonderful event and such a memorable gathering,” said McCorvey. Plans are already underway for next year’s event, which again will be held the first Saturday night of February in the fairgrounds’ Grace Pavilion.

Santa Rosa FFA members Angelena Ruffoni, left, and Madison Vernon serve bowls of crab to guests. Photo by Dirk Bietau 85

April 2010

Farm Bureau’s Ag Days Brings the Farm to Nearly 5,000 City Kids S

anta Rosa dairy rancher Doug Beretta, who has been at Ag Days for most of the 30 years it has been held, patiently answered questions from hundreds of kids about his Jersey and Holstein calves. What do they eat? Why do they have tags in their ears? One student asked if Beretta’s doe-eyed Jersey calf was a camel. One kid thought it was a deer. Questions like that, said Beretta, are the reason that Sonoma County Farm Bureau works so hard to stage Ag Days, a spring tradition held March 24-25 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. This year’s Ag Days attracted nearly 5,000 students, 1,200 parents and 300 teachers to the two-day event. Beretta said Ag Days is a way to teach school children about the cows and sheep, wine grapes and apples that are on the farms and ranches in Sonoma County. “Today, most of the children in Sonoma County schools are generations removed from the farm. It’s important that they know that agriculture plays a vital role in Sonoma County’s economy and way-of-life,” said Beretta, a director and past president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Beretta believes it’s important for the agricultural industry to educate the next generation of voters about the farms and ranches that generate more than $3 billion in revenue and cover more than 500,000 of the county’s one million acres. “Ag Days provides an experience every kid should have growing up in Sonoma County,” said Beretta, a fourth generation Sonoma County rancher. “Since most kids don’t live on farms anymore, it’s up to us to provide that agricultural experience.” Each year, Ag Days brings a taste of farm life to town so thousands of school children can learn more about the pastures, orchards and vineyards that unfold where city streets end. “Ag Days is a wonderful opportunity for my second graders to see first hand all of the things that our local farms offer to consumers,” said Linda Szczech, a teacher at St. Rose Catholic School in Santa Rosa. “The students are always surprised that our area produces more than wine grapes. Ag Days really opens their eyes to what farmers do and provide.” Carla Peterson, a teacher at Pacific Christian Academy in Graton, has been bringing her students to Ag Days for many years. Her students also compete in the Ag Days Contests. This year Peterson’s students won three of the six grand prize awards. “It’s so very important for students to actually see, touch, hear, taste, and smell agriculture,” said Peterson. “Ag Days gives students an opportunity to “fully live and experience” agriculture for a day. It is one thing to learn about agriculture in the classroom, but the true appreciation and understanding comes from spending a day at Ag Days.” For kids, Ag Days offered the chance to learn a range of farm facts including the many by-products made from cattle and that horses wear shoes too. “I love Ag Days because you get to pet chicks, cows, horses, goats and baby geese. My favorite part was seeing all the amazing animals. I learned that cows make jelly, ice cream and butter. I also learned that horses have different sizes of feet,” said Kylee Hall,

a student at Biella Elementary School in Santa Rosa. Larry Bertolini, owner of Western Farm Center, was at Ag Days with a bunch of baby chicks, duckling and goslings. Larry has been an exhibitor at Ag Days for the last 30 years, taking great delight in providing an educational experience for students in Sonoma County schools. “We do it for the kids. We want to give kids the experience we had growing up on farms,” said Larry, who is 83 and a native and lifelong resident of Santa Rosa. There were farm animal exhibits, sheep shearing demonstrations, a hay maze, tractors and many other exhibits and demonstrations related to the county’s farming industry and the environment. New this year, were miniature Sundog Cattle owned by Darlene Evans of Petaluma. Kids munched on Pink Lady apples and sampled cheese and milk produced by Sonoma County cows. “Ag Days is a unique opportunity where we can educate children, parents and teachers all together about the importance of agriculture to their lives and to the community,” said Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Ag Days encourages kids to see, touch, taste and smell agriculture, whether it’s squeezing wool or cuddling a piglet. The only admonition for kids is “please touch the animals.” “It’s just so great to watch the kids touching calves, climbing hay bales and getting on tractors without someone screaming at them to get off or don’t touch. We encourage touching because that’s the kind of experience we had as children growing up on a ranch. It’s a way for kids to connect with agriculture and natural environment,” said Bodega cattle rancher Walt Ryan, chairman of Farm Bureau’s Agriculture Education Committee. Farm Bureau strives to make the exhibits interesting and interactive. Enid Pickett, a kindergarten teacher at Waldo Rohnert Elementary School in Rohnert Park, said the field trip to Ag Days is part of her educational unit on farms and food. She said every grade at Waldo Rohnert has its own garden plot where the students grow all kinds of produce including sunflowers and pumpkins. Ag Days has grown into a major event to represent the many facets of Sonoma County agriculture. Farm Bureau sponsors Ag Days but many agriculture-related groups and individual ranchers support the event. Ranchers like Cheryl LaFranchi, Kerry Williams, Nancy Barlas, the Ray Crawford Family and Pat Prather bring livestock ranging from Boer goats to draft horses. Horse trainer Raye Lochert was the announcer at a horse demonstration showing what kids can do with horses. It was a way for kids to show other kids about the skills that can be learned at local stables. In addition to the Ag Days exhibits and demonstrations, Farm Bureau also sponsors a number of contests aimed at making children think about the source of their food and fiber. This year the theme of the contests was “Family Farms Keep Things Growing.” Hundreds of school children entered the contests, which included categories for the 86

best bookmark, poster, essay, scarecrow, mural and farm photograph. The winners in the various contests were recognized at Farm Bureauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ag Days Awards Dinner on March 24. There were more than 650 guests at the Ag Days Dinner where parents, teachers, principals and agriculture leaders came together to recognize the accomplishments of the students who were winners in the Ag Days contests.

Sue Bonzell of KZST Radio was the mistress of ceremonies. Awards were presented by Carl Wong, superintendent of the Sonoma County Office of Education, Steve Herrington, superintendent of the Windsor Unified School district, and Healdsburg city councilman Mike McGuire, candidate for the 4th district seat on the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors.

Wine grapesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; prominent role in Sonoma County agriculture was the message of this new exhibit at Ag Days. Alice Yeung, left, and Brittany Walters donned grape cluster costumes while spreading the word that wine grapes are the top crop in Sonoma County. Kids had fun putting their face in the grape cluster board for a unique photo opportunity. The familiar face in the top left is Nick Frey, president of the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission. 87

May 2010

Jones Family is Sonoma County Fair’s Top Dairy Award Recognizes Family Upholding County’s Dairy Farming Tradition

im Jones describes her days on the family dairy as “full” but most people would call them heavy-duty overtime. Starting at 3 a.m., working well after 5 p.m. and sometimes into the middle of the night, Kim and husband Jeff are motivated by their love of land, cows and old-fashioned family values. Given the economics of dairy farming today, it’s certainly not the money that drives them to work 365 days a year. “It’s not a job—it’s a lifestyle,” said Kim Jones, who, despite the hard work, believes she has the best job in the world. She also may be the happiest person in the world. She is rarely without a smile and gushes with positive energy. “I grew up on a dairy farm, and dairy ranching is all I really ever wanted to do,” said Kim. “I love ranch life and being around cows.” Kim and Jeff Jones and their three daughters – Jessie, 16, Connie, 13, and Jackie, 9 are the recipients of this year’s Outstanding Dairy of the Year in the North Bay Award presented by the Sonoma County Fair. The Jones Family Dairy operation includes two leased ranches, one off Grange Road in Santa Rosa and the second on Davis Lane in Penngrove. Kim and Jeff milk a total 350 cows on the two ranches, doing their part to keep cows part of the landscape and culture in Sonoma County. The Jones’ home ranch off Grange Road is the last working dairy farm in Bennett Valley, an agricultural region once home to a dozen or more dairies. Today, most of the old dairy ranches in Bennett Valley have been converted to vineyards. The daughter of Petaluma dairy farmers Ralph Bettinelli and the late Connie Bettinelli, Kim grew up herding cows, feeding calves and showing her prize cows at the Sonoma County Fair. She was in the fair barns as a toddler, acquiring the cow sense that she says is now part of her DNA. Today Kim and Jeff are raising their three daughters in the time-honored ranch tradition. The three girls each have their own string of dairy cattle and also show market hogs and steers at the fair. “They seem most interested in showing their own homebred animals, which is extremely rewarding for me,” said Kim. “They know that breeding is how we work toward improving the herd.” The Sonoma County Fair is a major undertaking for the entire family every year— one that involves hours of work but also has generated a treasure trove of memories for the entire family. “You make so many great friends at the Fair—I wouldn’t trade it for the world. At Mom’s funeral there were so many kids that came that knew us through the Fair,” Kim recalls. Kim’s favorite memory of a fair? Like most parents, she takes enormous pride in hearing what her kids say when they don’t know a parent is listening: “A couple of years ago one of the girls did really well with her animal. Then last year another exhibitor asked her if she thought she’d do as well this year, which she didn’t. I was so happy to hear her say that winning isn’t everything—it’s coming to the Fair and participating

that’s so important.” Active participation is clearly integral to the Jones’ success as they strive to produce the best dairy herd possible, along with their herd of beef cattle, and it’s clear that Kim is in for the long term. She talks glowingly of the views from her ranch, hearing the sounds of her cattle throughout the day, and the joy of working shoulder to shoulder with her family. “We strive for longevity. We take great pride in breeding and raising healthy cows and producing a healthy product,” said Kim. “Here in Sonoma County we have a quality environment that you don’t find everywhere—we’re pretty spoiled.”

Dairy ranchers Jeff and Kim Jones with their daughters, left to right, Jessie, 16, Jackie, 9, and Connie 13 on their Santa Rosa dairy farm. The family dairy will be honored during this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sonoma County Fair. Photo by Brenda Hawkes 89

June 2010

Wine Wizard Jess Jackson Inducted into Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame J

ess Jackson, the lawyer-turned-vintner who stormed Sonoma County in the 1980s to build one of America’s largest and most profitable wine empires, is recognized as one of the pivotal figures in the history of Sonoma County agriculture. Jackson, who turned 80 this year, started from nothing and in fewer than 20 years built his Kendall-Jackson Winery into Sonoma County’s largest wine business. Today, Jackson and his family are the county’s largest vineyard owners, holding more than 4,000 acres in Sonoma County alone. They own and farm thousands more acres of vineyards throughout California, primarily in the Central Coast region. Jackson’s profound agricultural legacy is being honored by Sonoma County Farm Bureau, which has selected Jackson for induction into the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame, a who’s who of the agricultural greats in Sonoma County. As a member of the Hall of Fame, Jackson joins a revered group of agricultural leaders and pioneer ranchers who have been the guiding force in preserving, protecting and propelling Sonoma County’s $3 billion farming industry. As the 2010 recipient, Jackson joins other legendary leaders like Kip Herzog, Richard Kunde, Henry Trione, Angelo Sangiacomo and Larry Bertolini in the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame. “Jess Jackson epitomizes the spirit of the American farmer. Through hard work, integrity and uncompromising commitment to quality Jess’s agricultural roots grew from an 80 acre pear and walnut orchard to become one of the world’s most prominent vintners and thoroughbred horse racing owners,” said Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. McCorvey said Jackson’s impact and involvement in the global wine industry and the horse racing is not only legendary but monumental. He said Jackson’s leadership has forever changed the way consumers and wine industry leaders around the world view Sonoma County. “Jess is truly a Renaissance man who led by example,” said McCorvey. “Jess’s commitment to local agriculture, community service, stewardship and clean water will continue to have a positive impact on Sonoma County for generations to come. The Sonoma County Farm Bureau is proud to welcome Jess Jackson into our Hall of Fame.” Jackson will be inducted into the Hall of Fame at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s “Love the Land” celebration and dinner on July 15 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard, a private vineyard estate at 3575 Slusser Road in Windsor. The event is open to anyone who wants to celebrate the beauty and bounty of Sonoma County while toasting Jackson for his agricultural leadership, philanthropy and lasting impacts on the Sonoma County wine industry. Jackson runs Jackson Family Wines in partnership with his wife, Barbara Banke, who also was a lawyer before making the transition to the family wine business. Jackson and Banke have three children Katherine, 24, Julia, 22, and Christopher, 20. Jess has two older daughters, Jennifer Jackson Hartford and Laura Jackson-Giron, from his first marriage to Jane Kendall, part of the namesake for Kendall-Jackson label. KendallJackson is one of the few remaining family-owned California wineries with family 90

members working full-time in a variety of positions. But it was Jess Stonestreet Jackson who used his insight and business acumen to launch a wine empire that he hopes will be a legacy for generations of his descendants. In the classic entrepreneurial spirit, Jackson, a self-described outsider, found a niche and bottled it, using his profits to build a wine business unsurpassed in the history of Sonoma County. Jackson has said he had a winning formula – quality wine at a bargain price. “I wanted to make a wine that the average person would say tasted good. There was a hole in the market I could drive a truck through,” Jackson once said in recounting his rise from a weekend hobby farmer to internationally-recognized vintner. Jackson had no intention of becoming Sonoma County’s billionaire super star on the world’s wine stage. It just happened when his keen intellect and entrepreneurial spirit kicked into gear. “I never really intended to leave the legal profession and go into the winemaking business,’ Jackson admits. “But when the opportunity arose, I was intrigued by this fascinating industry.” A real estate lawyer with a lifelong love of agriculture, Jackson in 1974 bought an 80-acre pear and walnut orchard in Lake County where he planned to dig in the dirt on weekends with his family. He turned the old orchard into vineyards, realizing that wine grapes would provide more financial returns than pears or walnuts. Jackson then sold his grapes to regional wineries until 1981 when there was a downturn and grape prices dropped precipitously. Rather than give his grapes away, Jackson began making wine himself. Two years later, the first wine bottled under the Kendall-Jackson label – the 1982 Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay – won the first Platinum Award ever presented by the American Wine Competition. Jackson knew that he had winner, expanding his vineyard and winery holdings to build the Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay into America’s best selling chardonnay. Jackson’s continued commitment to quality made Jackson Family Wines one of the most successful family-owned wine companies in the United States. The company’s focus on single vineyard, mountain-grown wines helped establish Sonoma County as one of the great wine producing regions in the world. Jackson’s story is one of acquisition, growth and profit that has no equal in Wine Country. His Kendall-Jackson label has become a household word to a generation of wine drinkers who equate chardonnay with white wine. Jackson’s commitment to quality and his “can-do” attitude are legendary. When he realized that the quality of the French oak barrels used to age his wine was inconsistent, he bought his own mill in France to provide the barrel staves and, then, became a partner in a cooperage located in Missouri. He has been a leader in the sustainable farming movement within the wine industry, implementing dozens of environmentallyfriendly farming practices throughout the estate vineyards of Kendall-Jackson. “To date, our sustainability initiatives have been impressive. Over the past 28 years we have served as stewards of the land, ensuring that the next generations inherit a healthy future,” said Jackson. He said one half of the property owned by Jackson Family Wines is devoted to wine grape vines, the remaining land is purposely left unplanted to maintain balance in nature and space. Wildlife corridors are not fenced in the estate vineyards, allowing wildlife to move freely to sources of water, shelter and food. Kendall-Jackson uses solar-powered weather stations with wireless telemetry to relay data, which benefits water consumption and irrigation needs. The vineyards employ integrated pest management practices and cover crops to reduce the use of toxic pesticides. Kendall-Jackson was among the first wineries to totally ban the use of chemical pesticides such as methyl bromide, Simazine, Karmex and Omite because of

the threat posed to the environment and health. Among the many environmental achievements that Jackson is most proud of is the planting of more than 10,000 oak trees on his California properties since 1996. It’s an on-going project with most of the oak seedlings grown at the Kendall-Jackson Oak Tree Nursery. His wine company has also reintroduced once indigenous redwood, madrone and toyon trees to restore the natural habitat on the company’s ranches. Jackson and his wife Barbara Banke also believe in nurturing the communities where they do business. They are leading philanthropists who have contributed significantly to many causes including the American Red Cross, the Susan G. Komen Race for the Cure, The V Foundation, Sonoma County Human Race, Sonoma County Family Justice Center and the American Heart Association. They have been generous and gracious supporters of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Jackson has been called “the Wine Wizard” and “Lord of the Vines.” He’s revered by many for his dedication to raising the quality standards for California wines and for his leadership in co-founding the Family Winemakers of California, an organization that represents the interests of smaller wineries. Jackson said one of his passions is generating a fresh understanding of wine among Americans. “Wine is entirely different from liquor and beer, and I’d like to see our industry free itself from the images used to sell those products,” said Jackson. “Wine is a part of our cultural heritage. It has been the traditional partner with food. Wine celebrates friends, family and love – all of the best things in life.” Jackson’s other great passion is Thoroughbred race horses. He is the majority owner of two-time Horse of the Year and the greatest money-winning North American thoroughbred, Curlin. He also is co-owner of Rachel Alexandra, who in 2009, became the first filly in 85 years to win the Preakness Stakes and went on to become Horse of the Year. Horses, the wine business and family fill Jackson’s life. Jackson, who proudly calls himself a 14th-generation American, is not slowing down, continuing to build his empire and pursue his passions. It’s all part of his grand plan to build an American wine legacy for his children, grandchildren and forthcoming generations of his family – in the tradition of European wine families. “We rarely look back, but when we do, we’re surprised at how far we’ve come,” Jackson said.

“We rarely look back, but when we do, we’re surprised at how far we’ve come.” ~ Jess Jackson

June 2010

Kunde Estate Winery Honored with Farm Bureau’s Luther Burbank Conservation Award Award is Tribute to the Kunde Family’s Tradition of Care and Stewardship

Three generations of the Kunde Family at their Sonoma Valley ranch, which has been in the family for 106 years. Back row, left to right, Jeff Kunde, Kurt Kunde, Marcia Kunde Mickelson, Jason Kunde, Ryan Kunde and Bill Kunde. Seated are Kunde family matriarchs, Leslie Kunde, left and Jane Kunde. Photo from the Kunde Family Collection

he motto “Because All Great Wine Should Be Green” hangs in big bold letters in the tasting room of Kunde Estate Winery, proudly proclaiming the working philosophy on the Kunde family’s 1,850-acre vineyard estate in Kenwood. The motto is not a slick marketing gimmick but a family principle that has been honed and elevated over the last 106-years by five generations of the Kunde family. It’s an everevolving commitment to improving environmental practices and conservation on the land and in the winery. Farmers first, the Kundes adhere to the old world philosophy that if you take care of the

land it will take care of you. They feel the same about nurturing – and supporting - the community where family members and their employees live and work. “Our family is committed to farming in an ethical and sustainable manner. It’s always been part of who we are and what we do,” said Jeff Kunde, chairman of the family board of directors that owns and operates Kunde Estate Winery and Vineyards, the sprawling ranch that stretches two miles along Sonoma Highway between Kenwood and Glen Ellen. The Kunde family’s dedication to healthy land and communities and their century-plus history of conservation on their land have earned them Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s 92

Luther Burbank Conservation Award. The award, established in 2009, recognizes the Kunde family’s dedicated stewardship and environmental ethic at a time when those values are such important part of the public pact. Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, said the Kunde family’s commitment to improving and protecting their land is legendary in Sonoma County. “Conservation and stewardship have been the mantra of the Kunde family for many generations,” said McCorvey. “The Kundes value the soil, the water and the landscape, always looking to nurture the land that has made their wine grape and cattle operations such a success. Their years of commitment to the land are what sustainability is all about.” McCorvey said the Kunde family epitomizes the spirit of the Luther Burbank Award, named for the famed Santa Rosa horticulturist who proclaimed Sonoma County to be the chosen spot of all the earth as far as nature is concerned. “Luther Burbank would be proud of the accomplishments of the Kunde family,” said McCorvey. “Their achievements embody the entire community, bringing education, action and commitment to their treasured land in Kenwood and the Valley of the Moon.” The Kunde family will be honored at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land celebration on July 15 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard at 3575 Slusser Road in Windsor. Other honorees are vintner Jess Jackson who will be inducted into the Sonoma County Farm Bureau Hall of Fame and the John and Terri Balletto family of Sebastopol who have been named Farm Bureau’s “Farm Family of the Year.” The Love of the Land dinner and celebration is a public event. Tickets are available by contacting Sonoma County Farm Bureau at 544-5575. In many ways, said Jeff Kunde, who oversees the daily operation of the family’s winery and vineyards, the world is catching up to recognize and value the stewardship, conservation and environmental awareness that have always been part of his family’s farming practices. He said his family was practicing sustainability before the term came into popular use. Kunde explains that for his family sustainable winegrowing is the balance of economic, environmental and social practices, which means caring as much for the ranch’s creeks and vineyard workers as the vineyards themselves. As an example, he said, only 40 percent of the estate’s 1,850 acres is planted to vineyards. That means overseeing the stewardship of five distinct ecosystems on the ranches – riparian, aquatic, oak woodlands, native grasslands and chaparral. The beauty, he said, is that these distinct environments work in harmony with the vineyards, providing habitat for beneficial insects and the owls and hawks that prey on pesky gophers. It also gives the grapes a sense of place, providing unique flavors reflected in the Kunde Estate wines. It’s a total systems approach, said Kunde. On-going practices include creek restoration, erosion control, cover cropping, pollution prevention, energy and water conservation, waste reduction measures, habitat restoration, natural predation and solar thermal energy production. It means conserving energy and reducing the carbon footprint in the vineyards, winery and at home. It’s investing in the community so that it’s healthy too. It’s also connecting with the community and sharing the beautiful land that comprises Kunde Estate. Jeff Kunde routinely conducts “Green Hikes” on the property and special “Dog Hikes” for people and their canines. The hikes are immensely popular, giving the Kundes a venue to share their story and land, forging a relationship with the people who consumer their wine. Recently, the Kundes have established a mountain top tasting area where visitors can sip Kunde wines while taking in the panorama of the ranch and the entire Bay Area. On a clear day there are views to Oakland and the many valleys that are part of the Wine Country. From the mountaintop perch, guests feel as if they are in the

middle of a topographical map of Wine Country. “People see the beauty of the region from this vantage point and they know what drives us to preserve and protect the land and the environment,” said Kunde, gazing out from the mountain top tasting area. Kunde said as he travels around the country talking to wine drinkers, the media and trade groups about his family’s sustainable approach to winemaking, he makes one thing clear to his audience. “First of all I am not an environmentalist, I am a farmer. Farming is in our blood, it’s what we do and what drives us as a family. Every day I try to do what is right with our land,” said Kunde, the fourth generation of his family to work the land. That statement invariably sparks a debate. Someone will say, of course, you are an environmentalist because of what you are doing and the care you give your land and resources. “No, I am a farmer who believes in and practices conservation and environmental enhancement,” said Kunde. On second thought, Kunde concedes, yes, he may be a farmer-environmentalist and is certainly a farmer-conservationist in keeping with family tradition. Heritage, history and family pride are hallmarks of the Kunde family, who are now in their 106th year on land settled in 1904 by great-grandpa Louis Kunde, a German immigrant whose knack for farming was matched only by his business acumen. Louis Kunde realized the quality of the grapes from his land and made wines that won two gold medals at the 1915 Panama Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco. To keep the Kunde name on the deed, the family has survived everything from the Great Depression to the current Great Recession; from Prohibition to the phylloxera root louse. On this iron-rich, red volcanic soil, generations of Kundes have gambled with markets and Mother Nature to become one of Wine Country’s most prominent wine families. The Kundes, along with well-known wine families like the Sebastianis, Foppianos, Bundschus and Seghesios, are among Sonoma County’s century-long survivors. The Kundes’ longevity is a rarity for a family business. Only 30 percent of family businesses survive their founders and make it to the second generation. The statistics grow grimmer as family businesses pass into succeeding generations. Only 12 percent of family businesses make it to the third generation, and 3 percent to the fourth generation and beyond. The Kunde family participated in educational programs that help avoid the common pitfalls that destroy family businesses. They have taken measures to deal with key issues like conflict management and family succession so that their agricultural business can survive for several generations. After more than a century amid the vines, life for the Kunde family takes on a natural rhythm reflecting the growth cycle, moving from slow to hectic. Winter dormancy gives way to bud break in spring, which quickly moves to the whirling harvest, the culmination of a year of work and worry. Like the generations before them, the current crop of Kundes consider themselves caretakers of land that will pass to future members of the family. “Everything we are doing is to keep this land in our family for the generations to come,’’ said Jeff Kunde. “This land is our heritage.’’ “Everything we are doing is to keep this land in our family for the generations to come. This land is our heritage.’’ ~ Jeff Kunde 93

July 2010

Ballettos Will be Honored as Farm Family of the Year Award recognizes Sebastopol family’s commitment to land and community

he day after he graduated from Analy High School in 1977, John Balletto and his widowed mother Hazel started planting vegetables on their small farm in Sebastopol. The 17-year-old graduate was so eager to plow into the earth and his farming career that he skipped his senior-class trip to Disneyland. Balletto has never stopped digging and dealing in Sonoma County soil. “We had five acres and $200 in the bank,” said Balletto, recalling the beginnings of a farming venture that eventually would make him the largest vegetable farmer north of the Golden Gate Bridge. During his heyday in the 1980’s, John grew more than 70 different kinds of vegetables on more than 700 acres, supplying greens to supermarkets like Safeway, Raleys and Lucky Stores. He was shipping 2 million cases of vegetables a year from Sonoma County, much of it sold under the “Mama Balletto” label, in honor of his mother who worked alongside him in the packing shed. To one and all, John Balletto was the Veggie King of Wine Country. Then, with the same steely determination, John, responding to a shift in the market, moved from veggies to wine growing. Today, John and his wife Terri farm more than 500 acres of vineyards and are the proud proprietors of Balletto Winery, a producer of top-tier wines from the Russian River Valley. The Ballettos are joined in their farming ventures by their daughters, Jacqueline, 18, and Caterina, 15, members of the Forestville 4-H Club. Both girls are keenly interested in the family’s farming operation and are preparing themselves to one day own and operate the vineyards and winery, continuing their parents’ agricultural legacy. The Ballettos, pillars of the farming community, are being recognized as Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s “Farm Family of the Year” for their many contributions to agriculture and the community. They are respected leaders who have diligently worked to preserve, promote and protect Sonoma County’s agricultural industry, which annually generates $3 billion in farm income. Farm Bureau leaders said the Balletto family epitomizes the spirit and determination of the family farmers who are the backbone of the agriculture industry. The Balletto family will be recognized at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land celebration on July 15 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard at 3575 Slusser Road in Windsor. Two other award recipients will be honored. They are vintner Jess Jackson who is being inducted into the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame and the Kunde Family, owners of Kunde Estate Vineyards & Winery, the recipient of Farm Bureau’s Luther Burbank Conservation Award, which recognizes the Kunde family’s century of conservation and stewardship. The Love of the Land celebration, a benefit for farmland preservation and clean water, is open to anyone who wants to join in honoring Jess Jackson, the Kunde Family and the Balletto Family. All of the award winners have made remarkable contributions to Sonoma County agriculture and their communities. They are upholding the county’s rich farming heritage and preserving a way-of-life that enhances the quality of life for all county residents.

John Balletto’s legendary rise in agriculture is a remarkable story of grit, gumption and determination. He went against all odds, starting from nothing to become one of the region’s most successful farmers and respected community leaders. Balletto was born to farm, whether it is growing tender, cigar-shaped zucchini or pinot noir grapes for high end Russian River Valley wine. “I enjoyed the excitement and challenges of the vegetable business. Prices fluctuated daily and the phones were always ringing off the hook as customers placed orders. With produce there is a lot of rushing around,” said Balletto, who has now settled into the rhythms of grape growing and winemaking. “I like growing grapes and I love the wine business,” said Balletto. “I have met some incredible people. The wine business opens a lot of doors.” Balletto, a meat-and-potatoes kind of guy, also loves drinking his wine, savoring the fruits of his labor whether it’s a crisp pinot gris or earthy syrah. He admits he didn’t have a similar love affair with the vegetables he grew. Veggies make him gag, proving that you don’t have to love what you grow to be successful. But, he advises, you had better love growing what you produce. For Balletto, nothing these days is more rewarding than coaxing world class wines from Sonoma County dirt. “Sonoma County is probably one of the top five places in the whole world to grow quality wine grapes,” said Balletto. But, he said, it’s more difficult and costly to farm because of increasing regulations on everything from air quality to water. “The regulations keep coming,” said Balletto, who is actively involved not only in the politics of farming but in agricultural education and programs that promote Sonoma County farm products. He recently completed two years as chairman of the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission and serves on the SRJC Foundation and the SRJC Ag Trust. He is a former director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau and past chairman of the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. He is active in the Sebastopol Rotary and a group called the Lagunians, a men’s dinner club that supports local causes. Balletto started diversifying from vegetables in 1996 when he began planting wine grapes on 70 acres in west Sonoma County. Balletto said the vegetable business became very competitive after the passage of the North American Free Trade Agreement or NAFTA, which opened the gates for produce from Mexico. “To stay in the vegetable business we knew we were going to have to relocate out of Sonoma County,” said Balletto, who saw opportunity in the wine industry with the farmland he owned in the Russian River Valley. He began converting his vegetable fields to vineyards and transformed his produce packing facility on Occidental Road to the Balletto Winery. Terri Balletto is a working partner in the family businesses, handling marketing and promotions for the Balletto wines. She travels to tastings and marketing events when winemaker Anthony Beckman is not available to talk about the wine he crafts from the 94

The Balletto Family, Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year, will be honored at the Love of the Land Celebration on July 15 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard. Family patriarch John Balletto with, left to right, daughters Caterina and Jacqueline and wife Terri Balletto. Balletto family vineyards. Beckman has been the Balletto winemaker for nearly four years. Terri, who served on the Sonoma County Harvest Fair Board for eight years including a year as president, works at the winery while her daughters are in school but devotes her time to them when they are home, overseeing their homework and taking them to activities. The girls are top students and active in 4-H and school activities. Like their parents they are dedicated to farm life and rural values. “We grew up in the country feeling safe and secure. I would never live anywhere but the country,” said Jacqueline, who will study agriculture business this fall at Fresno State University. She has her father’s touch with growing things and plans to one day work in the family vineyards. Caterina, a student at Ursuline High School, is an equestrian, who trains and competes in hunter-jumping horse shows. Caterina wants to one day run the family business, following in the big shoes of her father. She plans to soak up all she can working at her family’s vineyards and winery and then study agriculture business at U.C. Davis. “The people in agriculture are honest and hard-working and always there to give back to their community. I want to be a part of that,” said Caterina.

Balletto said he is not only blessed by a wonderful family but a dedicated and supportive staff in the vineyards and winery. Key men in the farming operations and vineyards are Manuel Vallejo, who has worked for Balletto for 26 years, and Garth Harding, a 24-year employee. Monica Hunter, an employee for 12 years, handles Balletto’s business and financial operations along with Sandy Finkbohner, an employee for three years. Pat Kilkenney is Balletto’s key business and financial adviser. Judy Polley has managed Balletto wine sales for six years. Balletto Winery annually produces 15,000 cases from the Balletto Vineyards. Balletto said 10 percent of his grapes are retained to make his line of wines, which include zinfandel, pinot noir, pinot gris, chardonnay, syrah and gewürztraminer. The remaining fruit is sold to other wineries. Looking back, Balletto said it took a lot of hard work to build the family farming business that he runs today with wife Terri. He feels fortunate to be part of Sonoma County’s rich agricultural heritage. “We are blessed to live in Sonoma County and be able to earn a living doing something we love,” said Balletto. 95

August 2010

4-H’ers from Healdsburg and Santa Rosa Top the County Fair’s Lamb and Goat Shows

Davey Dorr of Healdsburg 4-H is all smiles as the bidding hits $14 a pound for his supreme grand champion market lamb at the Sonoma County Fair. Auctioneer Bruce Campbell of Healdsburg, center, takes bids for the fair’s best lamb. Bruce was assisted by auctioneers Tony Brazil of Petaluma, left, and Louie Ricci of Santa Rosa. Photo by Brenda Hawkes 96

avey Dorr, 11, a first time exhibitor at the Sonoma County Fair, hit the jackpot when he exhibited the fair’s supreme grand champion market lamb, selling “Bug” his 130pound crossbred for $14 a pound for a total of $1,820. G & G Supermarket, Winzler & Kelly Engineering and Northwest Insurance joined together to buy Davey’s lamb. Davey was all smiles as auctioneer Bruce Campbell scouted the crowd for bids and the price moved higher and higher, topping out at $14 a pound. That’s far below the fair’s $52 a pound record but above the $11 paid for last year’s supreme champion lamb. The fair’s junior livestock auction also was a big moment for Wyatt Lopez, a Santa Rosa resident and a member of the Forestville 4-H Club, who exhibited the supreme champion meat goat, which brought $19 a pound on a bid from Les Schwab Tires of Sonoma County. The $19 a pound bid was above the previous record of $17.50 set in 2008. Rabbits didn’t come cheap either. The champion pen of meat rabbits, raised by Melanie Hanlon of the Liberty 4-H in Petaluma, brought $700. David Rabbitt, a member of the Petaluma City Council and a candidate for Sonoma County Supervisor in the Second District, was the buyer of the champion rabbits. Rabbitt donated the rabbits to the Petaluma Kitchen, which provides nutritious meals for the poor and hungry. Auctioneers Rex Williams and Bruce Campbell had a field day with candidate Rabbitt buying the three rabbits at the fair auction. “Now we have four rabbits in the ring,” said Rex Williams. The supreme champion lamb and goat would have brought about $1.20 a pound if sold through normal market channels but the fair auction is anything but normal as businesses and individuals dig deep to support youngsters in their livestock projects. Three businesses, G&G Supermarket, Winzler & Kelly Engineering and Northwest Insurance, joined together to buy the supreme lamb. “G&G has been buying animals raised by 4-H and FFA members at the fair for 40 years. We want to keep agriculture part of Sonoma County and believe the best way to do that is to encourage the next generation of farmers and ranchers,” said Teejay Lowe, chief executive officer of G&G Supermarkets, with stores in Santa Rosa and Petaluma. G & G spent $10,000 at the lamb auction held on July 29. Many of the family members at G & G came to the auction including Teejay Lowe’s son, two-year-old Robert. The meat will be sold at G & G’s stores, giving customers the chance to taste the premium meat of the blue ribbon lambs. “The champions are sold at regular prices,” said Bob Gong, Teejay’s father and the founder of G & G Supermarkets. Lowe said because of the weak economy he knew the auction could use some help to get all the animals sold at above-market prices. Through his contacts in the community he rounded up some new buyers, bringing their bidding cards to the lamb auction, purchasing a number of lambs in partnership with other businesses. “If everyone does a little to support the auction, it spreads it out so that a few don’t have to do a lot,” said Lowe. G & G and Les Schwab were the volume buyers at the lamb auction, spending thousands of dollars to give 4-H and FFA members a financial boost. “We absolutely want to take care of the community that takes care of us,” said Brad Horst, manager of the Les Schwab Store in Rohnert Park. “The 4-H and FFA kids work so hard with their animals to get them to the fair. It’s a fabulous program that we want to support so it will be around for years to come.” Horst said many of the parents of 4-H and FFA kids are customers of Les Schwab Tires. And he hopes that many of the kids that Les Schwab supports at the fair will become customers in the future. The average price for the 359 lambs sold in the fair sale was a record $7.54 a pound, an

increase of 63 cents a pound above last year’s $6.91 a pound. The 33 meat goats averaged $7.40 a pound, which is $1.18 a pound higher than last year. The pens of meat rabbits averaged $372 a pen, which is $106 higher per pen than last year. The gross sales total was $355,380 for the lambs, goats and rabbits sold at auctions during the first week of the Sonoma County Fair. That’s $39,284 below last year’s $394,664 gross sales for the first week of the fair and $72,284 below the same period in 2008. Although average prices per pound were higher this year for the lambs and goats, the gross total declined because there were 75 fewer lambs and 20 fewer goats this year than in 2009. Hogs, beef steers and poultry were sold the second week. Davey Dorr said the secret to producing a supreme champion is to get a great lamb to start with, a lamb that has the muscling and conformation to be groomed into a champion. “Then I feed it the right feed, exercised him properly and got him used to showing,” said Davey. Kolby Burch of Coon Rapids, Iowa, was the judge of the lamb and meat goat shows. Burch complimented the Sonoma County Fair on the quality of its lamb show and thanked the fair for its gracious hospitality during his three days of judging. Davey Door’s lamb beat out the grand champion FFA lamb, which was owned by Geno Dericco, a member of the Healdsburg FFA. Derrico’s lamb brought $10 a pound on a bid from John Wright’s Feed Store in Healdsburg. Both of the top two lambs were bred by Johnny Nicewonger, who raises club lambs in the Central Valley. Derrico, 17, is also a first time lamb exhibitor, previously showing pigs at the fair. What makes a champion? “A lot of time, effort and hard work,” said Derrico. The FFA Grand champion Meat Goat was owned and exhibited by Lori Bisordi, a member of the Santa Rosa FFA Chapter. Her goat was purchased for $6 a pound by Dr. Eric Fraser, a Santa Rosa dentist. Buyers who purchase livestock raised by Sonoma County youth at the Fair can choose to keep the top-quality meat, resell it at market price, or donate the meat to any number of local nonprofit agencies. The difference between market price and the auction price frequently can be claimed as a charitable contribution; buyers are encouraged to check with their tax preparers. Proceeds from the auction typically are used by the youngsters to save for college or to invest in their next livestock project. In addition to purchasing and caring for their livestock, participating junior exhibitors are required to keep records of their purchase price, feed and other supplies—a real life exercise in the realities of farming.

September 2010

Bret Munselle Continues his Family’s 130 Year Farming Legacy in the Alexander Valley Munselle is Harvest Fair’s Outstanding Young Farmer

Bret Munselle, the Harvest Fair’s Outstanding Young Farmer, on the family’s Geyserville ranch with his family including daughter Madeleine, wife Kristen and parents Rita and Bill Munselle. Photo from the Munselle Family Collection 98

ret Munselle, a fifth generation Alexander Valley grape grower, is farming land that his great great grandfather traversed with a horse and plow more than 130 years ago. The powerful image of land, family and heritage is not lost on Munselle, 34, who holds a deep connection with the vineyards he farms in the Alexander Valley and a passion for the bucolic grape growing region he calls home. After all, two of his great great grandfathers were farmers and winemakers in the Alexander Valley. And most of the land in the valley was either farmed or owned at one time or another by ancestors with pioneer names like Osborn, Frellson, Wasson and Drake. Munselle says he is blessed with an incredible sense of place when he goes to work each day. He said the best part is his daily morning meeting with his 92-year-old grandfather, Fred Wasson, who has been on the land his entire life and actively farmed it for more than 60 year. Although the land has always produced grapes, the Wasson family also raised hops, prunes and vegetables and ran a dairy on the family property. Today, except for a few meat goats used to control vegetation on unplanted ravines, the land is exclusively planted to wine grapes – Sonoma County’s premier crop. Now retired, Fred Wasson remains vitally interested in the family’s winegrape farming operation while eager to pass on the wisdom of the generations to his grandson. Munselle appreciates and values his grandfather’s wisdom and the opportunities offered by his family’s farming legacy. “To tell you the truth, I have the best working family situation I could hope for,” said Munselle. “Every day, I am surrounded by my family’s history and legacy here in the Alexander Valley.” For Munselle, grape growing isn’t a job but a lifestyle and part of his family’s agrarian culture. “I love what I do. I love the wine industry and talking about the wine industry. The lifestyle is unparalleled,” says Munselle, who with wife Kristen has two daughters, Madeleine, 3, and Callan, 2. He and his family live just down the road from the family ranch where he works. “I can see my house from the ranch shop. That’s pretty special,” said Munselle. His exuberance for farming – and life -- shows in his big smile and the infectious energy he exudes “Where else can you take your kids to work and have your boss, my grandparents, be glad that they are there with you.” The young farmer is an agricultural hybrid in the vineyards of Wine Country. He holds a degree from U.C. Davis but is deeply rooted in the tradition of family farming, carefully balancing science and good old-fashioned know-how to grow the best grapes possible. It’s no wonder that the Sonoma County Harvest Fair has singled out Munselle as a rising star in the wine industry, naming him the Outstanding Young Farmer for 2010. Munselle and the other Harvest Fair Award winners – Rich Kunde, John Azevedo and Sonoam County Supervisor Paul Kelley --- will be honored at the Harvest Fair Awards Gala on Sept. 25 in the Grace Pavilion at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. The Awards Night Gala precedes the Harvest Fair, which is Oct. 1-3 at the fairgrounds. “Bret’s dedication to quality wine grape production and preservation of family farming are among the many reasons he was selected for the Harvest Fair’s Outstanding Young Farmer Award. The award is a tribute Bret and the agricultural legacy of his Alexander Valley family,” the Harvest Fair board of directors said in naming Munselle the county’s top farmer. Munselle works for a family grape growing partnership that includes his parents Bill and Rita Munselle and his aunt Bev Wasson, who for many years was a leader on the county’s farm front. She is the first and only woman to serve as president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, which was founded in 1917.

The Munselles and Wasson lease family owned vineyards from grandparents Fred and Ruby Wasson, who this summer celebrated 70 years of marriage. The couple continue to make their home in the Alexander Valley farm house where they have lived for decades and raised their four daughters. In addition to Bev Wasson and Rita Munselle, the daughters are Marcia Teuschler and Kathy Fiero. Additionally, Munselle and his parents are in a separate partnership that leases 75 acres from a cousin in the Alexander Valley. The partnership also owns some vineyards and a wine business, producing top-tier wines under the Munselle Vineyards label, founded in 2006. Munselle said the wine is a way to enhance the value of the wine grapes from the historic family vineyards. In all, Munselle farms more than 250 acres in partnership with family members. Like most family businesses, he does a variety of different jobs every day, ranging from mechanical work in the shop to driving stakes in the vineyard. Mostly, Munselle focuses on selling the wine grapes produced from the family vineyards. The grapes are sold to 15 wineries throughout Sonoma County. Munselle didn’t return to the family vineyards right out of college, which he said is a good thing. The day after graduating from U.C. Davis with a degree in agricultural economics he started working for American AgCredit, the region’s leading farm lender. He worked there for 3.5 years, gaining valuable experience as he worked with growers on their financing needs. He said working for someone else gave him an appreciation for working in a family business. Munselle left American AgCredit in the fall of 2001 to work in the family vineyards when his father and aunt wanted to slow down a bit. “This will be my tenth harvest,” said Munselle. He worked the grape harvest as a kid but now holds the responsibility for managing crews, scheduling grape deliveries and making sure that manpower and machines are ready to roll every day. Like most grape growers, Munselle is concerned about the cool summer and the late start of harvest. He expects to bring in the family’s first grapes on Sept. 15, several weeks behind what he would call a normal year. He can’t wait for the harvest action to begin. He’s energized by the smell of ferment that perfumes the Alexander Valley and the frenzy of bringing in the crop. Harvest is pay day, the grand finale of the production year that started in January with pruning. “I love harvest and the excitement of it all,” said Munselle. “I’m chomping at the bit to get started and to feel that adrenalin pumping through me. Any grape grower who doesn’t like harvest shouldn’t be in the business of growing grapes.”

“Where else can you take your kids to work and have your boss, my grandparents, be glad that they are there with you.” ~ Bret Munselle

October 2010

Mengali Plowing Dishes the Dirt in Wine Country Vineyards

Mario Mengali is cutting deep furrows through Wine Country with his four foot moldboard plow imported from Italy. In this photograph Mengali poses with his plow on an Alexander Valley vineyard site owned by the Seghesio family. 100

ario Mengali of Healdsburg believes that deep plowing is the key to growing healthier grape vines and crafting wines with more intense flavors. It’s all in the

Eva Dehlinger, who grew up in her family’s vineyard off Guerneville Road and then went off to Stanford University to earn a degree in earth system science, sees tremendous potential in deep plowing of the soil for new vineyards. “Our goal with the new planting is to establish vines that produce the highest quality fruit possible. Looking towards the future, we want a deep rooted, healthy vine that can be farmed with the minimum amount of drip irrigation,” said Dehlinger. Dehlinger said when planning for the new vineyard planting the management team realized 30 years of grape farming and decades of orchard farming prior to that had removed various nutrients from the soil. Tests showed that the soil was deficient in potassium, phosphorus and magnesium. The land was left fallow for two to three years as part of the rejuvenation process to create optimal growing conditions for the young vines. Dehlinger said using Mengali’s four foot moldboard plow for deep soil work accomplished many of the goals that the winery had set for itself in establishing the new vineyards. Firstly, she said, the soils had become quite acidic several feet below the surface and need a good dose of lime. “Because lime does not travel well through the soil profile we need to mix the lime deep to mitigate the acidic condition,” said Dehlinger. “In an amended environment with a more neutral pH, we expect our vines to be able to grow deeper roots that are more equipped to thrive with minimal irrigation. A more balanced pH willl also help the vine take up various nutrients.” Secondly, said Dehlinger, the deep plowing allowed for the deep mixing of potassium, phosphorous and magnesium to replenish nutrients in the worn-out soil. She believes the more even distribution of the nutrients will help encourage the vines to have more expansive root systems, rather than balling near the drip emitter. “Finally, the deep plowing allowed us to remove as many roots as possible from the old planting,” said Dehlinger. “This will lower pest and fungal transfer from the old planting. This allows our fallow period to be more effective, without using fumigation.” “The quantity of the roots we were able to remove was staggering,” she said. “It would be hard to imagine returning to the traditional method of only ripping to remove roots after getting a sense of how many roots inhabit the soil through deep plowing.” Dehlinger said, so far, the changes in the soil chemistry seem promising. The soil is less acidic and there are more moderate levels of target nutrients throughout the soil profile. Dehlinger said the real proof will be in the health of the vines and the quality of the wines eventually produced from the vineyard. “We are excited to plant the grapes and taste the wines,” said Dehlinger.

dirt. Mengali, 37, a fourth generation Sonoma County rancher, is plowing deep furrows through Wine Country as the owner of Mengali Plowing, a unique custom farming business that prepares soil for new vineyards. The tools of his trade are massive moldboard plows imported from Italy where deep plowing is widely used in vineyard land preparation. The plows are capable of going three or four feet deep, basically, turning the soil upside down and mixing the layers together – with a topping of applied amendments – that boost the soil nutrients. This changes the soil chemistry of the soil, customizing the soil for the particular needs of the vineyard, resulting in happier, healthier vines. “It’s really beneficial to quality wine grape production to have the soil mixed deep and have the amendments available deep in the root zone,” said Mengali, who is using old world implements- the plow – to put a new wave twist on growing top quality grapes. Mengali believes that deep plowing is better than ripping the soil, the common practice in North Coast vineyards. Although deep plowing is more expensive than ripping, Mengali believes plowing deep provides long term payoffs in quality grapes, disease prevention and water conservation. Growers, like Eva Dehlinger of Dehlinger Winery in Sebastopol, also believe that deep plowing makes sense. The Dehlinger family is using Mengali and his Italian-made plows to customize their soils in the promise of producing stellar wines from their estate vineyards. “Deep plowing is a practice that most grape growers and wineries are not currently using, yet what Mario Mengali is doing is kind of on the forefront of quality wine grape production,” said Eva Dehlinger. In addition to thoroughly mixing the soil profile, Mengali said the other benefits of deep plowing are bringing up the deep, long-buried roots of old vines or trees. These old decaying roots often contain soil born pests, toxins and disease, like oak root fungus and fan leaf virus. But, Mengali said one of the great benefits of deep plowing may be water conservation, particularly, these days because of the increasing restrictions to save water for fish and wildlife. Deep plowing allows better root development deeper into the soil profile, with reduced water consumption by the vines. It better facilitates dry farming of vineyards. “This enables the vineyard to subsist on winter and spring rains, creating more intense flavors and better balanced fruit at lower sugars,” said Mengali, who has been sustainably farming on his own since 1997. He and his wife Katie McClain Mengali and their daughter Angelina, 3, live in the historic Manzanita School, a one-room school house in the Dry Creek Valley. Mengali was raised in the old school house, which he bought from his parents Joe and Kathy Mengali. A graduate of Healdsburg High School where he was a member of the Healdsburg FFA, Mengali is a throwback to earlier times. He thrives on physical labor and loves working with machinery. The bigger the machinery the better as evidenced by the monstrous plows he deftly maneuvers over land being prepared for wine grapes. Mengali has pulled his plow through some of Wine Country’s most prominent vineyards including the Trione Family’s Vimark Vineyards, Williams Selyem and Paul Hobbs Winery. Increasingly, some vineyards and wineries, like Dehlinger Winery in Sebastopol, are using Mengali’s deep plowing method as an alternative to chemical fumigation as well as the promise of higher quality wine grapes through better mixing of amendments into the soil. The result is healthier vines and, ultimately, better and more flavorful wines. 101

November 2010

Betty Carr, As American as Mom’s Apple Pie A

s Thanksgiving approaches, Betty Carr, the iconic “Mom” of Mom’s Apple Pie in Forestville, not only thinks about the 1,000 pies she will bake for the holiday but her many blessings as a resident of what she calls Apple Country. Originally from Japan, Betty has been anchored in the Sebastopol area for more than 50 years, doing everything from running a mom-and-pop chicken farm to slinging burgers at a Forestville drive-in. But it’s her pies – spicy Gravenstein, delectable blackberry and 15 other varieties – that have made her famous in her corner of the world. “I have had a wonderful life and a lot of fun in this community that I, indeed, call home. It’s the people and their connection to the land that have made life so special for me and my family,” said Betty, who will turn 80 in February. She still works every day in the pie shop and deli that has become a landmark in western Sonoma County. “I don’t kid myself, I am old but I am very grateful to have something to do in my old age. The pies keep me going.” Mom’s Apple Pie is a little slice of heaven nestled on a stretch of Highway 116 between Sebastopol and Forestville, aptly named Gravenstein Highway. With her twinkling eyes and broad smile, Betty, usually wearing a red gingham apron, is as cute and energetic as a pixie. Her homemade pies have made “Mom’s” a household word for many Sonoma County residents and Wine Country visitors who savor the fruit filled pies and creamy creations like chocolate and coconut cream. Betty’s seven-acre orchard behind the pie shop and deli supplies many of the apples she uses for her famed pies. In fact, at the urging of her husband, the late Harry Carr, she started making pies because there was no market for their apples. So in the classical entrepreneurial spirit, the Carrs turned their unmarketable apples into homemade pies that sold like hot cakes. “Harry said, “Oh Betty, you make a great pie. Why don’t we sell it,” she recalls. “That was how we were able to survive with our apple trees.” Betty is a longtime member of Sonoma County Farm Bureau and is active in supporting agricultural and community events. Her pie stand is a fixture at the Sonoma County Fair where each year she dishes up a taste of Sonoma County for thousands of fairgoers. Her pie booth at the fair is across from the Spaghetti Palace, operated by another Sonoma County icon, Art Ibleto, the Pasta King. Betty and the Pasta King are close friends and compatriots in bringing good, local food to the table. In her polite and self-effacing manner, Betty said it’s the embrace of a warm and friendly community that has made Mom’s such a popular roadside attraction. It’s here that customers like brothers Steve and Joe Dutton, who are leading grape and apple growers, and Bob St. Clair, the former San Francisco 49er offensive tackle and Hall of Famer come for their favorite pie – apple, of course. Customers are like family members to Betty, who often becomes so engaged in conversations that her staff drags her back to the kitchen to oversee the pie making. Betty takes great pride in her pies but her three grown sons, all high-achieving

professionals, are the real apple of her eye. They are Dr. Harry Carr, 49, who is a Santa Rosa internist; David Carr, 48, an FBI agent in San Francisco, and John Carr, 45, an agent with the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms in Los Angels who has twice been decorated for valor. She has two grandsons, Trevor, 14, and Jarren, 8. Betty gives credit for the popularity of Mom’s and the accomplishments of her sons to her late husband, who died in 1991. She said Harry Carr was a businessman and entrepreneur who was always planning the next venture. He was the driving force behind Mom’s, which has been going strong for nearly 30 years. “So he really was Mr. Mom,” said Betty. Thanksgiving, of course, is the busiest time of year for Betty and her small staff where rolling pins and apple peelers are at the ready to make the hundreds and hundreds of pies – apple, pumpkin and pecan - that will roll out the door for Thanksgiving, the most American of holidays. It’s not lost on Betty that she has mastered the ultimate symbol of Americana. “Here is this Japanese woman making traditional apple pies,” said Betty with a laugh. Clearly, she didn’t learn the art of apple pie baking from her 101-year-old mother who still lives in Japan. Born Michiko Kameshima in Nagoya, Japan, Betty was taught the ABC’s of baking while majoring in home economics and food science at North Central College near Chicago in the 1950’s. Betty vividly remembers a beloved baking instructor named Miss Irwin, who counseled her students, “Now, girls. Cookies and cakes are nothing but empty calories. Pies have some nutritional value.” While growing up in Japan and living through World War II as a teenager, Betty wanted to be a doctor, like her father, grandfather and aunt. But her traditional father would not send her to medical school, believing only men should be doctors. She was devastated. “I cried and cried and then moved on,” said Betty. She went to a women’s college in Tokyo where she earned a degree in English. While in college, she became acquainted with Christian missionaries who sparked her interest in the United States. Looking back, she concedes she was brave and adventurous to leave Japan for the United States. She was 22 years old when she boarded a freighter in Yokohama and set off for America, the only person in her family to leave Japan. “I guess I was daring,” said Betty. “I just wanted to see what was out there.” Following college in the Midwest, she traveled West to the Golden Gate Baptist Seminary in Mill Valley where she sang in the choir. Through church, she met parishioner Harry Carr, a strapping young man from West Virginia with a bold, outsized personality. Betty and Harry, opposites really, feel in love, married and embarked on a path that would bring them to rural Sonoma County. Harry who had come from a farming background wanted to get in the chicken business in Sonoma County. The couple bought a five acre farm on Frei Road in Sebastopol 102

where they had 40,000 laying hens. “In those days, Petaluma was the egg basket of the world,” said Betty. “That’s what brought us to Sonoma County and got us into this farming business.” But, alas, the Carrs came into the egg business too late. When they arrived in Sonoma County in the early 1960’s, big changes were already afoot in the poultry business. Their farm was too small to be profitable. The poultry industry began consolidating and the small mom-and-pop chicken farm was on its way out. “We were getting 19 cents a dozen for eggs that cost us 25 cents a dozen to produce,” Betty recalls. But she said the unflappable Harry refused to give up on the chickens and their small poultry farm. Instead of selling eggs wholesale at a loss, Harry opened The Egg Basket at Fulton and River Roads, a country store where they sold their eggs, produce and other food items at retail. When Harry developed heart problems they sold the store and started peddling their eggs from a pick-up truck parked along the roadside while, at the same time, running a drive-in eatery called Carr’s Drive-in at Highway 116 and Covey Road in Forestville. “I became the Egg Lady,” said Betty. Betty and Harry traded their laying hens for apples in 1979 when they acquired the eight-acre property that is now the home of Mom’s Apple Pie. At the time, the property was a roadside fruit stand called Hilltop, which Harry Carr expanded into a deli. They began offering homemade apple pies from the orchard when the market soured for their fresh apples. They officially changed the name of the business to Mom’s Apple Pie in 1984, with the business growing each year. Even now, Betty admits to waking in the middle of the night to think of ways to grow the business so she can provide for herself and her employees. Harry’s words still guide her in business and life decisions. “Harry would say, Betty, if we don’t keep growing we are going backwards. So I think of ways to grow,” Betty said. One of the additions she is considering to her pie repertoire is an apple pie made with Pippin or Granny Smith apples. That type of pie would be firmer in texture than the Gravensteins pies. She said while Gravensteins make a delicious pie, the filling can be as “mushy” as applesauce. She said several of her regular customers have expressed their desire for a pie with firmer apples in the filling. She wants to comply. But Betty is not giving up on Gravensteins and encourages growers she knows to plant more trees, or at least keep the trees they have now. If Betty frets about anything, it would be the loss of apple trees in western Sonoma County, especially Gravensteins, the all-purpose apple with a unique sweet and tart flavor. The Gravenstein has a long and celebrated tradition in Sonoma County but has lost ground in recent decades to wine grapes, which are more profitable. “The Gravenstein is indeed a special apple. We have to do everything we can to save the Gravensteins we have left,” said Betty, who is doing her part to promote Gravensteins with her signature pies.

“I don’t kid myself, I am old but I am very grateful to have something to do in my old age. The pies keep me going.” ~ Betty Carr Betty Carr, 79, has been baking her famed apple pies for more than 30 years at her sweet shop on Gravenstein Highway between Sebastopol and Forestville. 103

December 2010

Kozlowski Farms, A Vintage Country Classic E

ach December Kozlowski Farms in Forestville takes on the bustle of Santa’s village as thousands of packages filled with the farm’s signature specialty foods are packed and shipped to destinations around the country, bringing a taste of Sonoma County to folks from Bakersfield to Boston. Meanwhile, Gravenstein apple pies and other homemade pastries bake in the farm’s giant oven to fill orders for holiday gatherings. The smell of warm apple pie melded with the fresh air amid the vineyards, apple orchards and Christmas tree farms of western Sonoma County offers a unique experience to visitors escaping the harried crowds and snippy clerks at stuffy department stores. Kozlowski Farms offers a taste of country that has been perfected over the last 60 years by family matriarch Carmen Kozlowski, who at 84 still puts on her apron to help out in the family business where three generations work side-by-side to produce specialty foods from the Russian River Valley. Known to one and all as Mammy Carmen – a term of endearment engendered by one of her granddaughters who couldn’t say Grammy – Carmen Kozlowski is the inspiration and driving force at Kozlowski Farms, one of the oldest family-owned and operated farms in Sonoma County. “Our family has always believed if you have a passion for something: go for it,” said Carmen, whose passion for farm and family are evident in her genuine and abiding spirit. Carmen’s daughter Carol Kozlowski-Every echoes that sentiment. “We have a passion for agriculture and deep roots here in Forestville where we have worked together as a family to build this farm business, which is on track to continue for many more generations,” said Carol, who travels around the country marketing and promoting Kozlowski Farms products. Along with her mother, Carol runs Kozlowski Farms with her sister Cindy Hayworth and brother Perry Kozlowski. Each of the three siblings plays a role in producing, marketing and distributing the variety of Kozlowski Farms products that range from old fashioned strawberry jam to spicy chipotle and salad dressings to fudge sauce. The family business is perched on the cutting edge of food trends, jumping in to develop new products that follow what’s on the minds and taste buds of American consumers. Kozlowski Farms’ top selling products are its red raspberry vinegar, chipotle sauces, red raspberry jam and apple butter. “To create products of exceptional character demands the devotion of an entire team. That team is our family,” said Perry Kozlowski. The team also includes third generation family members who work full time and some Left: This vintage illustration of Carmen Kozlowski, founder of Kozlowski Farms and matriarch of the Kozlowski family, is the iconic image of her family’s farming business in Forestville. The illustration is from a photograph of Carmen picking cherries in the family’s orchard in 1945. Carmen, now 84, continues to oversee Kozlowski Farms, a thriving business offering jams, jellies, vinegars and other farm products sold nationwide and at the farm’s retail store.

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who work part-time during the holidays or when they are on a break from college or other duties. Perry’s daughter, Janae Kozlowski, and Cindy’s son Kyle Hayworth both work full-time in the family business. One of the perks for family members who work at Kozlowski Farms is Mammy Carmen’s home-cooked lunch in the kitchen where many of the Kozlowski Farms products were first created. Carol said the family business has flourished for three generations because the company is both defined and driven by family, passion and vitality. She said every family member plays a key role and everyone is dedicated to producing a quality product while keeping their land in agriculture and the business family owned and operated. She said there is mutual respect for each family member and what they bring to the business. Carol oversees marketing, promotion and product development; Cindy runs the office, does the bookkeeping and handles graphic design for the catalogs; Perry manages the farming operations and production facilities. Cindy said there is something very special about working on the farm where she grew up and, as a young mother, could bring her children with her to work every day. And the work place just happened to be Grandma’s farm. “It’s a wonderful way-of-life to work at a place that is so special to me, a place where I can look out at beautiful views of vineyards and orchards,” said Cindy. Kozlowski Farms’ history is as appealing as the raspberry jam that has made the Kozlowskis famous in their corner of the world. Carmen Kozlowski, who was born Carmen Lorenzo, was the first child of Florencio and Julia Lorenzo, Spanish immigrants who in 1920 settled on a farm in Sebastopol where they grew apples, berries, cherries, grapes and other crops. Carmen grew up farming in the diverse micro-climates of western Sonoma County, learning the rhythmic cycles of the farming season and developing a deep passion for the land and its bounty. Carmen moved from her parents’ farm to a farm of her own after marrying Tony Kozlowski, who had relocated from Kansas to Santa Rosa with his mother and nine brothers and sisters. He met the beautiful young Carmen Lorenzo after he returned from serving in World War II. With her love and enthusiasm for farming, Carmen encouraged her husband to purchase their first apple farm in 1949. Two years later, they bought some adjacent farmland, which would be called Kozlowski Farms. Carmen and Tony’s three children, Carol, Cindy and Perry, were raised on the family farm where they acquired their parents’ love for farming and appreciation of the rural lifestyle. Tony Kozlowski, blessed with a work ethic to match that of his wife, fit right into the farming role. The couple planted Gravenstein apples, blackberries, blueberries, boysenberries, cherries and raspberries. Tony Kozlowski was always looking for better ways to farm. He had the revolutionary idea of planting raspberry bushes between the rows of newly planted apple trees. The idea was to produce an alternative crop on the land while the apple trees were maturing. It was a tremendous success. The Kozlowski family suddenly found themselves with a bumper crop of valuable but highly perishable raspberries. Carol remembers that her father got up one morning and told daughter Cindy, 13 years old at the time, that she would be in charge of selling the raspberries. He told Carol, who was 19, that she would be running the raspberry picking crew. He then turned to his 16-year-old son and said, “Perry you’re driving the truck.” The raspberries and other harvested crops provided plenty of raw materials for Carmen to hone her baking and canning skills using the fruits of their labor from the orchards and berry patches. Carmen made jams, jellies and pastries that gained a blue-ribbon reputation along Gravenstein Highway. Soon Carmen’s kitchen took on a life of its own, churning out farm products sold – along with the fresh raspberries -from a stand at the farm gate.

It was the beginning of what would be Kozlowski Farms, Sonoma County’s premier producer of top-quality specialty and natural food products. The Kozlowski family suffered a tragedy in 1982 when patriarch Tony Kozlowski was killed in an airplane crash. Kozlowski was not only a respected farmer but an agricultural leader who had worked with farm adviser John Smith to establish Sonoma County Farm Trails, the on-the-farm marketing organization founded in 1973. Kozlowski Farms is one of the remaining founding farms still on the Farm Trails map. Kozlowski Farms also is a longtime member of Sonoma County Farm Bureau and active in many other agricultural organizations. Following Tony Kozlowski’s death, his wife and children were more determined than ever to continue the tradition of growing and producing food products on the Forestville farm to continue the patriarch’s dream and agricultural legacy. Carmen, Carol, Cindy and Perry rolled up their sleeves and went to work to build the business, focusing on their mission to produce quality products bearing the Kozlowski name. They developed the farm’s retail store and expanded production for national distribution. The business was well on its way in 1984 when Kozlowski Farms attracted the attention of the late, great chef Julia Child who came to Forestville to make raspberry bread with Mammy Carmen in her farmhouse kitchen. The Julia-Carmen cooking session aired on Good Morning America, providing Kozlowski Farms its national television debut. Kozlowski Farms has garnered lots of media attention because it is the essence of a successful family farming operation set amid the scenic beauty of western Sonoma County – it’s a great story. Additionally, Kozlowski family members are eloquent, yet down-to-earth spokespersons for the family farming business that they love. In 1999, Kozlowski Farms was featured on the Food Network program, Food Finds. The segment introduced its viewers to California food producers who take pride in making specialty foods the old-fashioned way. Kozlowski Farms has always been featured on the PBS program, California Heartlands and KRON-TV’s Bay Area Back Roads as a premier San Francisco Bay Area destination. Living and working on the family farm, the second generation of the Kozlowski family naturally began to think about the importance of sustainable farming and agricultural preservation. In the early 1980’s, Kozlowski Farms made the transition to organic agriculture, becoming one of the first California Organic Certified Farms in Sonoma County. The Kozlowski family, witnessing the changing economics of farming, embarked on another venture in 1999 when they converted some of their apple orchards to vineyards. Capitalizing on their land’s ideal grape growing potential within the Russian River and Green Valley appellations, the family planted pinot noir wine grape. Once again, the family came together to make an outstanding agricultural product from their harvested crop. Carol’s daughter Tracy and her husband Joe Dutton, owners of Dutton Estate Winery in Sebastopol, began crafting boutique-style pinot noir, which is sold at Kozlowski Farms retail store. Carol said Kozlowski Farms is an old-fashioned farming business but family members make sure the business moves with the times, whether planting wine grapes, going organic or pouncing on the new trendy food item – like the current craze for anything with pomegranates. In the specialty food business you have to stay on top of what is hot in terms of consumer tastes and demand, which are ever changing,” said Carol. “But while keeping up with fads, we also tend to the basics of quality and customer service that built our family business.” 105

January 2011

SRJC’s Shone Farm Vineyards, Venue for Learning The Sedlaceks are enrolled in the Fall Vineyard Practices class where students range from vineyard owners to recent high school grads studying for careers as vineyard managers, grower representatives or viticultural technicians. “This class has just blown us away. We are learning so much and the practical, hands on approach is exactly what we need as we make the transition from the high tech world to the wine world,” said Susie Sedlacek. She said the hands on experience in the SRJC vineyards make the class far superior to viticultural short courses at U.C. Davis where most of the course time is spent in the classroom --not in the vineyards. Adds her husband Fred, “The more work we can do in our vineyard the less we will have to hire out.” Under the direction of viticulture instructor and program director Dr. Merilark PadgettJohnson and vineyard manager Mark Sanchietti of Sanchietti Farming LLC students like the Sedlaceks learn both the textbook and practical aspects of wine grape growing. During one recent session in the vineyards, Padgett-Johnson and Sanchietti guided students in making the judicious pruning cuts essential to produce a balanced, high quality crop of wine grapes. Pruning is one of the most important functions in the vineyards, a point driven home by Padgett-Johnson and Sanchietti. “Now just indulge me. Wrap the twine twice around the cane and tie it with two knots so it doesn’t come loose,” Padgett-Johnson advises students as they tie the newly pruned canes to the trellis wire at the school’s vineyard. Padgett-Johnson said the Shone Farm vineyard is literally an outdoor field laboratory for year around, hands-on learning. She believes it’s essential to put hand and eye together to actually experience what the brain absorbs in the classroom. “Hands-on experience in the vineyard takes learning from two dimensions to three dimensions. My philosophy is that you have to go out and do it to learn it,” said PadgettJohnson, who was hired in 2006 to teach and direct the viticulture program at SRJC. It’s a philosophy shared by Sanchietti, who as vineyard manager works closely with PadgettJohnson to coordinate farming practices in the vineyards during the times when students can participate and observe. “Merilark and I are in constant communication and have a great working relationship. We are both dedicated to providing a learning experience for the students and, at the same time, managing the vineyards in a professional manner that produces top quality grapes for our winery clients,” said Sanchietti, 27, who this fall finished his third harvest as the manager of the Shone Farm vineyards. In June of 2008, Sanchietti was hired to manage the Shone Farm vineyards, which were in need of professional attention and lots of tender loving care. Yields were down and grape quality was in decline, prompting a re-evaluation of the vineyard’s management. It was decided that a professional was needed to maximize the quality potential of the grapes being produced from what many recognize as premium vineyards in the heart of the Russian River Valley.

Mark Sanchietti, who manages the SRJC Shone Farm vineyards, gives pruning tips to viticulture student Maria Wacker. The college’s vineyards are a learning ground for viticulture students and a vital source of revenue for the 360-acre Shone Farm, located on Eastside Road near Forestville. Photo by Michael Amsler

red and Susie Sedlacek, high-tech professionals from Menlo Park making the transition to Wine Country grape growers, grabbed their shears and joined fellow students in pruning grapevines at Santa Rosa Junior College’s Shone Farm. The Sedlaceks recently purchased a six acre vineyard in the Russian River Valley and are learning the ABC’s of wine grape production at Santa Rosa Junior College, which has a stellar reputation for providing students with the education and practical skills they need to produce top-tier wine grapes. The centerpiece of the students’ viticultural education is the college’s 70 acre vineyard, which is part of the 360-acre SRJC Shone Farm on Eastside Road between Forestville and Windsor in the Russian River Valley. 106

“There was a sense of urgency,” Padgett-Johnson said of the mission to restore the school vineyards. Although the college’s vineyards are used as a learning laboratory for students, the wine grapes also generate income essential to maintaining the entire 360- acre farm, which also includes livestock, horses, a sustainable vegetable growing operation, olive grove ,apple orchard and small winery. Padgett-Johnson said restoring the yields and quality of the school’s wine grape crop was key to maintaining relationships with winery clients and, ultimately, maintaining the vineyard’s profitability. Said Padgett-Johnson, “Under Mark the vineyards have made a complete turnaround. Working with Mark is a dream come true.” As Trustee for the Santa Rosa Junior College, Terry Lindley is very pleased with the success of the vineyard operation at Shone Farm and the progress it has made as an educational venue and training farm. “With 70 acres of grapes and new students coming in every semester and a new round of future graduates every two years, the Shone Farm vineyard required professional farming and maintenance,” said Lindley. “ Mark Sanchietti has been able to bring that. Mark is a young, innovative and bright young man who brings tremendous expertise to running a vineyard operation. His grasp of farming would be exceptional from someone who’s been in the business for decades.” “As a professional, he’s technical, detail-oriented and works well in business dealings and as a smart business negotiator. Mark is a wonderful representative to the vineyard and winery community for Santa Rosa Junior College,” Lindley added. The dedication to hands-on learning and the collegial collaboration by Padgett-Johnson and Sanchietti are providing students with a valuable educational experience that is rare even at four-year agricultural colleges. The professional rapport between Padgett-Johnson and Sanchietti yields educational benefits for the viticulture students. “This viticulture class has been an incredible learning experience for me,” said Tom Noggle, a hobby grape grower-winemaker from Sebastopol. He applies what he learns in the SRJC class to farming his one-third acre vineyard to produce high quality wine. “At the end of the day, the reward is in the wine,” said Noggle. Erin Leveroni, a first year student at Santa Rosa Junior College, is a fourth generation member of the Leveroni family of Sonoma. The daughter of Joe and Pat Leveroni, she has worked in the family’s 250 acres of vineyards but is expanding her knowledge of grape growing at SRJC. “The hands-on, physical aspect of working in the vineyards keeps it exciting and interesting for me,” said Leveroni, who will go to New Zealand in February to work the winegrape harvest. “The time spent in the vineyards brings it all together with what we learn in the classroom.” Padgett-Johnson and Sanchietti both stress the importance of providing students “real world” experiences so they can succeed in the wine business whether growing grapes for their own wines or to sell to wineries or managing vineyards. In Sonoma County, everything is geared to producing a top quality wine grape, a prevailing message in all of the SRJC viticulture classes. The real world aspect also includes cost management so the vineyard can earn a profit, an essential component for staying in business. The lessons of growing quality grapes were instilled in Sanchietti, a fourth generation Sonoma County farmer. As the son of growers Mel and Janeen Sanchiettti, Sanchietti grew up amid the vines and became part of the county’s close-knit farming community. Sanchietti always knew he wanted to follow in the farming footsteps of his father, grandfather and great grandfather who passed on their farming know-how to each succeeding generation. The Sanchietti family has been a respected farming fixture on

Irwin Lane in west Santa Rosa since 1919 when the family acquired farmland, which has been expanded over the last century. Sanchietti established his own farming business, Sanchietti Farming LLC, in 2007 after graduating from Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo. Today, he farms more than 200 acres of vineyards, assisted by his wife Jenny, who manages the office and keeps the books for the farming company. Sanchietti said the plan for the future is to plant an additional 10 acres of vineyards at Shone Farm, bringing the total to 80 acres. The vineyards are planted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Merlot. In addition to managing the vineyards, Sanchietti also oversees the farming of the college’s two acre olive grove and two acre apple orchard. The grapes from the Shone Farm vineyard are sold to six wineries – La Crema, Rodney Strong, Piper Sonoma, Ravenswood, Korbel and Benziger Family Winery, which makes a vineyard-designated wine from the college’s organically-farmed block of Sauvignon Blanc. A small portion of the college’s wine grapes are made into wine and marketed under the SRJC Shone Farm label. It’s a campus-wide endeavor, with graphic arts students designing the label and marketing students handling promotion, advertising and public relations. The wine is made by students in the Winery Practices Class, taught by Chris Wills. A small wine production facility is housed in the Warren Dutton Pavilion at Shone Farm. This fall, students made 300 cases of wine – Pinot Noir, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay from grapes grown in the college vineyards. The focus is on educating students about the ways of wine. “We make winemakers,” said Wills. The wine is sold through a broker and available on the shelves of stores like G & G Supermarkets, Traverso’s and Bottle Barn. Padgett-Johnson said despite the downturn in the California wine industry, there is strong interest in the viticulture and wine programs at SRJC. Classes are full and students are eager to be part of the agricultural industry. SRJC students Brian Flores and Emmanuel Alcantara, both of Petaluma, and Eduardo Sosa of Santa Rosa are among those preparing for careers as vineyard managers or supervisors. “I am learning a lot about grape growing and vineyard management,” said Sosa, who relishes the hard work. “I like to work outside using my hands.” Before coming to Sonoma County, Padgett-Johnson was the instructor and coordinator of the Viticulture and Enology program at Allan Hancock College in Santa Barbara County. She was hired as instructor at Hancock College in 1999, the same year she completed her doctorate degree in plant biology from the University of California, Davis. She also holds two other degrees from U.C. Davis, a bachelor of science in plant science and a master of science degree in horticulture. In addition to teaching at SRJC, Padgett-Johnson is the owner of Vineyard Solutions, a viticultural consulting business that she has operated since 1993. Padgett-Johnson said there is incredible support from the wine industry for the college’s viticulture and wine program. And there is tremendous community pride in Shone Farm and its vineyard. “We are so fortunate to have this valuable educational resource that is set in the scenic beauty of the Russian River Valley,” said Padgett-Johnson.

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February 2011

Mitch Mulas Retires After 40 Years on the Board of Sonoma County Farm Bureau Sonoma Valley rancher, Mitch Mulas, has retired from the board of directors of Sonoma County Farm Bureau after dutifully serving as a director for 40 years, which included five years as president of the county’s largest and most influential agricultural organization

ulas, 82, a respected rancher and agricultural leader for a half century, said it’s time to move over and let younger people represent the interests of the county’s farmers and ranchers. He warned fellow Farm Bureau members to be ever vigilant in protecting their land and livelihoods from misguided public officials and bureaucrats who don’t understand agriculture or covet the county’s farmland for uses other than farming. “Farmers need to be familiar with the problems and issues that Sonoma County is facing and more importantly with the issues that our agricultural industry is facing. It’s our responsibility to let our county supervisors and other elected officials know what we need to keep farming. We all need to stand up for ourselves, our farming businesses and for agriculture,” Mulas told the Farm Bureau board of directors last month when he retired. His farewell message was greeted with a standing ovation that showed the respect and admiration directors have for Mulas who has been such a steady and guiding force on the county’s farm front for so many decades. “Mitch has provided a great example of leadership for the agriculture community in Sonoma County, with his commitment to public service and dedication to protecting our rural heritage. Mitch has always been a quiet leader, providing input on so many issues based on his lifelong experiences farming and ranching in Sonoma County. He will definitely be missed at Farm Bureau’s monthly meetings, but I know he is only a phone call away if I need something,” said livestock rancher Joe Pozzi, president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. For his part, Mulas said Sonoma County agriculture would be greatly diminished if not for the grassroots efforts of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, founded in 1917 to be the voice of the agricultural community. Farm Bureau is a voluntary, non-profit, non-government organization dedicated to keeping farms and ranches part of Sonoma County’s economy and landscape. He said Farm Bureau is a unifying force and collective voice for the county’s large and diverse agricultural industry. “Farm Bureau policies are formulated to benefit the whole agricultural industry. It serves all of agriculture,” said Mulas. He said Farm Bureau’s political clout is derived from its strength at the county, state and national levels. Farm Bureau continually monitors legislation that is proposed in Sacramento and Washington D.C. and educates lawmakers on issues related to farming and farmland. Mulas was first elected to the Farm Bureau board in 1959, working on issues that spanned the gamut from land use to farm labor. He left the Farm Bureau board from 1968 to 1980 because he was serving as a trustee of the Sonoma Valley Unified School District while actively running his large dairy operation. He returned to the Farm Bureau board in 1980 and continued as a director until last month. He served as Farm Bureau president in 1965, 1966, 1967 and then again in 1985 and 1986. Mulas’s son Ray Mulas, who continues on the board of directors of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, served as president of Farm Bureau in 2003 and 2004. Mitch and Ray Mulas are the only father and son in Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s 94-year history to both serve as

Farm Bureau president. The father and son’s terms as president, a span of 40 years from Mitch’s first term, not only shows the longevity of Farm Bureau but the continuity of the Mulas family’s farming operation in the Sonoma Valley. The Mulases produce milk and wine grapes on their landmark ranch along Fremont Drive between Sonoma and the community of Shellville. The Mulases settled on the ranch in 1920 and, depending on markets and Mother Nature, plan to be producing milk and wine grapes for generations to come. One of the highlights of Mulas’s first term as Farm Bureau president in 1965 was hosting Ronald Reagan as the guest speaker at Farm Bureau’s annual meeting held in Cloverdale. Reagan was running for governor of California and had come to Sonoma County in 1965 as part of his campaign stump. For Mulas and the many Reagan supporters it was a night to remember even decades later when Reagan served as the 40th president of the United States. A photograph of Mulas with Ronald and Nancy Reagan at the annual Farm Bureau dinner, held at the Cloverdale Citrus Fairgrounds, is part of Farm Bureau’s historical archives. “Ronald Reagan was truly a patriotic and inspirational speaker. That night in Cloverdale we all realized why he would become the legendary leader known as the Great Communicator,” said Mulas. Mulas said during his terms as Farm Bureau president the focus was on land-use and providing input for the agricultural element of the Sonoma County General Plan, the blueprint that guides urban growth and puts restrictions on what farmers and ranchers can and can’t do with their land. He also had a role in establishing the Sonoma County Agricultural Preservation and Open Space District, which preserves farmland by purchasing the development rights so the land stays in agricultural production. Like Farm Bureau itself, Mulas believes that if restrictions are coming from government, it is better to help make them than to let government impose them. That’s why Mulas has worked with Farm Bureau on major land-use planning and regulations during the 40 years he served as a director and board president. Ranchers like Mulas have learned to work within the changing political landscape in the County. Not so long ago, farmers had no “they” to contend with. Agriculture dominated the County’s economy and farmers’ political clout was understood. Farmers held positions on the board of supervisors and the agricultural industry called the shots. Today, while farmers and ranchers own and manage half of Sonoma County’s one million acres, the increasingly urban population has a dominant voice in the political arena. Mulas said it’s more important than ever for agriculture to communicate its needs so those in power understand what it takes to produce food and fiber in Sonoma County. He said to preserve farmland in Sonoma County, politicians and policy makers need to know that farmers and ranchers have to earn a living from that land. “A lot has changed in the last 50 years. We have to let government representatives know what agriculture needs and what it takes to operate our farms and ranches,” said Mulas. “Every generation in agriculture has to be involved in the political process.” 108

Mitch Mulas on his Sonoma dairy in 1965, the year he was elected to his first term as president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Mulas retired last month as a director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau after serving on the board for 40 years. During those four decades, Mulas was Farm Bureau president for five years in the mid 60s and again in 1985-86. 109

March 2011

Sonoma and Marin Counties - Epicenter of Artisan Cheesemaking in California Sonoma and Marin Counties are home to the largest concentration of artisan cheesemakers in California, according to a new study which found that the North Bayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lush grasslands, scenic farmsteads and passionate producers make the region comparable to the great dairy provinces of Europe

North Bay cheesemakers are outstanding in their field. Cheesemakers from left to right are Eric Patterson of Cowgirl Creamery, Larry Peter of Spring Hill Cheese Co., Patty Karlin of Bodega Artisan Cheese and Liam Callahan of Bellwether Farms. Photograph courtesy of Agricultural Institute of Marin. Photo by Curtis Myers 110

he report found tremendous opportunities for artisan cheesemakers in the two county region where there is strong political will to preserve farmland and a growing number of consumers hungry for locally grown products. “Of California’s 43 artisan cheese companies, over half are located in Marin and Sonoma counties. Survey results confirm that many positive aspects of a diverse and thriving artisan and farmstead cheese making community – from the growth in and variety of cheeses being made here, to the increasing interest in and demand for artisan cheeses by consumers,” according to the summary in the report “Coming of Age: The Status of North Bay Artisan Cheesemaking.” The 32-page report is published by the University of California Cooperative Extension. Ellie Rilla, community development adviser with the Marin County UC Cooperative Extension, is the report’s lead writer and survey coordinator. Stephanie Larson of the Sonoma County UC Cooperative Extension and David Lewis of the Marin County UC Cooperative Extension assisted in the report’s survey and data development. The North Bay has already been described as the “Normandy of California” by the New York Times, providing ripe marketing opportunities for the nearly two dozen artisan cheesemakers that range from Laura Chenel’s Chevre in Sonoma to the Giacommini family’s Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co. in Tomales. That is a powerful image that could make the region a center for specialty production for the San Francisco Bay Area and beyond. “We should market our region the way they do in France. This is a great milk producing region and we should play on that,” said the Cowgirl Creamery’s Sue Conley, who is quoted in the report. Cheese experts said the lush pastures of the North Bay and the care and handling of the animals, whether cows, sheep or goats, produces a high quality milk that is essential for fine cheese. “You can make bad cheese from good milk but you will never make great cheese with bad milk. It’s just not possible,” said Michael Zilber, general manager of Cowgirl Creamery. “We are lucky to have some superb sources of milk.” Zilber said the North Bay’s salt air, great grass and conscientious animal husbandry practices are ingredients for the great cheeses coming from Sonoma and Marin counties. The American Cheese Society defines “artisan” cheeses as those made primarily by hand, in small batches, with particular attention paid to the tradition of the cheesemaker’s art, using as little mechanization as possible. In Sonoma and Marin counties, the cheesemakers range from small producers, making 175,000 pounds a year to bigger producers crafting more than 1 million pounds annually. The rise in artisan cheesemaking, according to the study, coincides with America’s growing love affair with cheese over the last half century. In the 1970’s, per capita cheese consumption was 18 pounds a year. By early 2000, consumption increased to more than 30 pounds per person, a figure that has is expected to grow in the future. Meanwhile, the report says in order to be called “farmstead” cheese, the product must be made with milk form the farmer’s own dairy animals on the farm where the animals are raised. Farmstead cheese is artisan cheese but an artisan cheese is not necessarily a farmstead cheese, according to guidelines by the American Cheese Society. The study found that most cheese makers in Sonoma and Marin counties were driven by their desire to preserve their land and way-of-life on family farms rather than making fat profits. “Passion for cheese, animals, land a pastoral lifestyle is a driving force among the majority of the cheese makers interviewed,” said the report. “For others it is the perfect transition from multi-generational dairy farming to making a value-added product that

supports the viability of their farms while reconnecting with cheese traditions still active in ancestral regions.” One of the most successful of the artisan cheesemakers is Sebastopol’s Redwood Hill Farm & Creamery, which traces its roots to a 4-H project started by the Bice Family in the 1960’s. “We started because I was in 4-H and fell in love with goats. That love led to the question of what do with all that milk,” said Jennifer Bice, president of Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery. What began as a hobby evolved into a company that today sells cheese and yogurt products throughout the western United States and employees 52 people. Amng the findings in the report: • Almost half (46 percent) of Marin and Sonoma counties’ artisan cheese businesses are farmstead with one to four family members involved in the operation. • The oldest continuously operating cheese company has been in business since 1876; the newest began in 2010. • There are 22 commercial cheese plants in the two counties; four more are close to starting production. • Over one-third (33 percent) of those interviewed has been making cheese for three years or less. • Almost 8 million pounds of artisan cheese is produced here annually. • Production per cheese business ranges from 1,500 pounds to 3 million pounds annually. • At an average of $15 per pound, artisan cheesemaking is a $119 million dollar industry in the two counties. • Annual sales range from a high of $8 million to a low of $10,000. • 332 people are employed in the two counties in the production of cheese and fermented milk products. • 40 percent had 11 or more full-time employees with an average of 35 employees. • 70 percent own a dairy and produce milk for cheese. • Almost three-quarters of cheesemakers are making a cow milk artisan cheese. • 46 percent of cheese makers indicated that they farmed all or part of their operation organically. • 37 percent rely on land leased from others for their cheese operation. • 72 percent of farmstead cheesemakers sold agricultural conservation easements on family land to help capitalize their transition to cheese making. The report’s recommendations for future growth of the North Bay Cheese industry include: • Streamlining permits for cheese plant development. • Expanding education and training programs for new cheesemakers. • Increasing the number of cheese operations with active food safety and hygiene plans. • Resolving shipping and distribution problems. • Building an infrastructure for the network of artisan cheese producers. • Promoting area cheeses in connection with culinary and wine tourist efforts. The complete report is available online at www.cemarin.ucdavis.edu. Further information about the report and the survey is available from the Marin County U.C. Cooperative Extension in Novato at 415-499-4204.

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April 2011

Farm Bureau’s Ag Days Brings the Farm to 5,000 City Kids T

he baby chicks, duckling and goslings from Western Farm Center were among the farm babies garnering the attention of the more than 5,000 kids who swarmed the Sonoma County Fairgrounds for Farm Bureau’s Ag Days, an annual spring event that brings the farm to the city. “Nothing says spring and farm life like baby chicks,” said Larry Bertolini, 84, co-owner of Western Farm Center, which has been bringing chicks and duckling to Ag Days since it started 31 years ago. Ag Days celebrates the county’s thriving agricultural industry and rich farming heritage. “It’s important for all of us in agriculture to educate young people about farm life and what it takes to grow the food that we all eat as consumers,” said Bertolini. Ag Days was held under sunny skies following a week of unrelenting storms that dumped more than five inches of rain on some parts of Sonoma County. The beautiful weather combined with displays of baby farm animals was an ode to spring that celebrates the rebirth and renewal that occurs this time of year on Sonoma County farms. There were more than 5,000 school children, 1,200 parents and 300 teachers attending this year’s Ag Days, held March 29 and 30 at the fairgrounds, with activities and livestock exhibits centered in the Lyttle Cow Palace. In addition to the chicks and ducklings, the children could cuddle miniature cows and hold a squealing two-day old piglet. The children could run through a hay maze, stare down a Bantam chicken and ogle the giant Belgian draft horses brought from Bodega by rancher Pat Prather. “The great thing about Ag Days for kids is that it encourages them to touch and feel the animals,” said Ray Crawford, whose family brings their pigs to Ag Days. For many of the urban kids, it’s the first time to actually see a live pig. That’s an amazing experience. “Ag Days is such a great way for kids to experience the agriculture that is so important to the economy and way-of-life in Sonoma County,” said Marci Cook, a teacher at Mattie Washburn Elementary School in Windsor. “Most kids live in suburbs and don’t know about agriculture. This event gives the foundation to begin the educational journey to understand where their food comes from. At Ag Days they not only get the chance to see agriculture but to smell and hear it too, providing a powerful educational experience.” Camber Clifton, a parent from Apple Blossom Elementary School has attended Ag Days for 3 years as a chaperone. She looks forward to the event year after year and enjoys the time with the students on the school field trip. “I really like the variety of activities, foods, and gift bags for the kids, parents, and teachers. I think this event is very beneficial Kids were encouraged to touch and cuddle the baby farm animals at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Ag Days, held on March 29 and 30 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. There were more than 5,000 school children attending the two-day event, which has been held for the last 31 years to educate urban kids about farm life and the value of local agriculture and healthy eating. Photos by Brenda Hawkes

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on tractors without someone screaming at them to get off or don’t touch. We encourage touching because that’s the kind of experience we had as children growing up on a ranch. It’s a way for kids to connect with agriculture and natural environment,” said Bodega cattle rancher Walt Ryan, chairman of Farm Bureau’s Agriculture Education Committee. Farm Bureau strives to make the exhibits interesting and interactive. Ag Days has grown into a major event to represent the many facets of Sonoma County agriculture. Farm Bureau sponsors Ag Days but many agriculture-related groups and individual ranchers support the event. Ranchers like Doug Beretta, Rex and Kerry Williams, Nancy Barlas, Jim and Marcia Mickelson, the Ray Crawford Family and Pat Prather bring livestock ranging from Boer goats to draft horses. Horse trainer Raye Lochert was the announcer at a horse demonstration showing what kids can do with horses. It was a way for kids to show other kids about the skills that can be learned at local stables. In addition to the Ag Days exhibits and demonstrations, Farm Bureau also sponsors a number of contests aimed at making children think about the source of their food and fiber. This year the theme of the contests was “Growing a Healthy Future.” Hundreds of school children entered the contests, which included categories for the best bookmark, poster, essay, scarecrow, mural and farm photograph. The winners in the various contests were recognized at Farm Bureau’s Ag Days Awards Dinner on March 29. There were more than 650 guests at the Ag Days Dinner where parents, teachers, principals and agriculture leaders came together to recognize the accomplishments of the students who were winners in the Ag Days contests. ichael “J”urian of KTRY country radio station was the emcee for the awards program. Awards were presented by Sonoma County supervisor Shirlee Zane, Dr. Steven Herrington, superintendent of the Sonoma County Office of Education and Dr. Sharon Liddell, superintendent of the Santa Rosa City School District.

to the kids by teaching them where their food comes from and how we get food from farm to plate.” Carla Peterson, a teacher at Pacific Christian Academy, said the Ag Days tour and the Ag Days Awards Dinner were fabulous experiences for her students, particularly fifth grader Zoe Maddox who won the grand prize in the essay contest. “One of my colleagues noted that she had never seen Zoe smile so much. Winning the grand prize award was very special for her parents,” said Peterson. “It’s interesting every year to watch the students of my class and see what interests them. This year it was animals. We looked at every animal and saw most of the animal shows. The sheep dog and sheep shearing was the favorite, followed by horses, pigs, sheep, goats, rabbits and chickens. Being able to touch the animals was a huge draw and the farmers were very kind and patient, answering questions they had probably answered all day long,” said Peterson. “We spent all day at the event and could have spent more. I can’t believe how the event has grown over the years. We weren’t able to see it all! Our delight in the event was summed up by one of my students when she asked, “Can we come back tomorrow?” In addition to the exhibits and demonstrations the kids were able to taste the best of Sonoma County. Kids munched on Pink Lady apples and sampled cheese and milk produced by Sonoma County cows and organic apple juice from Manzana Apple Products in Sebastopol. “Ag Days is a unique opportunity where we can educate children, parents and teachers all together about the importance of agriculture to their lives and to the community,” said Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Ag Days encourages kids to see, smell and touch agriculture, whether it’s squeezing wool or cuddling a piglet. The only admonition for kids is “please touch the animals.” “It’s just so great to watch the kids touching calves, climbing hay bales and getting 113

May 2011

Legendary Horseman Johnny Brazil Honored by the Sonoma County Fair

Johnny Brazil, 89, is being honored by the Sonoma County Fair for his lifetime in the saddle, his dedication to horses and the ways of the Old West. Photo by Brenda Hawkes 114

t 89, Johnny Brazil, one of the world’s top cowboys, still rides fast in the saddle, driven by his passion for horses and his love for ranch life and the ways of the American West. Trim and tightly wound, Johnny plans to be riding horses until the day they carry him out - boots first- from his small ranch in the heart of the Alexander Valley near Geyserville. But before then, he’s got a lot more riding, roping and cutting to do from atop one of his Quarter horses. “It’s just in your blood. I’m like an old prize fighter who won’t give up,” says Johnny, whose dark brown eyes show the steely determination that has kept him on a horse even after splitting his pelvis and breaking his neck. He started riding when he was a kid growing up on a ranch in Pinole and has never been far from a saddle since. No fancy pants showman, Johnny trains and ride horses that work cattle, one of the Old West traditions still used on large cattle spreads. Stock horse competition includes running a cow down a fence and then cutting out single cow or calf from the herd. It preserves the horsemanship traditions perfected by California’s early vaqueros, regarded as the most superb horsemen ever to have worked cattle from horseback. “It’s my life and I don’t know anything else,” he says with the kind of homespun humility that has made him a beloved figure in the horse world. And beyond. This year the Sonoma County Fair in recognition of Johnny’s colorful life and many contributions as a horseman named him the recipient of the Award of Excellence in the Horse Industry. The award, established in 2007, pays tribute to an individual or couple who play a key role in showcasing and promoting the horse industry, which is one of the leading sectors of Sonoma County’s agricultural economy. During his more than 70 years as a competitor in stock horse competition, Johnny has brought much recognition to Sonoma County and the horses raised here. “Johnny Brazil is a legend in the horse industry. He’s a great horseman and a real gentleman who has never stopped doing what he loves. Even when he was well into his 80’s Johnny was competing against much younger cowboys,” said Terry Lindley, a Healdsburg resident who has known Johnny for decades. Lindley admires Johnny’s true grit. “Johnny is as tough as nails and never ages. I’ve seen him take a horse up into the steep hills of Sonoma County to gather cattle, riding in places where no one else would dare to go,” said Lindley. “He is just one wiry, tough son-of-a-gun and a true craftsman when it comes to training and working horses.” The Sonoma County Fair’s Equine Award is not the only honor coming Johnny’s way this summer. In July, he will be inducted into the Hall of Fame at the Salinas Rodeo where he was a regular competitor for decades. “I feel like a football player who makes it to the Hall of Fame,” said Johnny of his latest honors. In 1997 he was inducted into the National Reined Cow Horse Hall of Fame. Over the last three quarters of a century, Johnny has won so many custom-made saddles, $10,000 jackpots, belt buckles and trophies he’s lost count. His awards are displayed in the living room of his Alexander Valley ranch house where he and his wife of 65 years Laurie Brazil have made their home since 1955. They arrived in the Alexander Valley when Johnny took a job as head cowboy on the 6,500 acre Dana Ranch, which is now owned by the Jackson wine family of Kendall-Jackson Winery. The sprawling ranch was pieced together by William Dana, a New York stock broker who made a fortune on Wall Street but found pleasure in running cattle and horses on his Geyserville ranch. “I came here in 1955 and never had enough money to leave,” Johnny jokes in the best cowboy way. He said William Dana was a real gentleman who supported his

desire to compete with the stock horses raised on the Dana Ranch. Champion followed champion as Johnny competed in shows like the Cow Palace’s Grand National where he was named top cowboy a half dozen times. “At first Mr. Dana didn’t want to compete with the horses but after winning with one of his good horses he was hooked,” said Johnny. After Dana’s death, the ranch was sold to clothing tycoon Ed Gauer who also ran cattle and planted grapes on the ranch. Johnny worked for Gauer for five years and then “retired” to spend more time training and working his horses and running his own cattle on leased ranches throughout Sonoma County. For many years, he ran up to 300 cows but he has cut back to about 100 cows today. Not because of his advancing age, he says, but because there are fewer and fewer ranches to lease for cattle. “Grape growers have thrown me off a lot of the places where I used to run my cattle. They are planting grapes on hillsides I never thought would be planted,” said Johnny. “I’m the maverick here in the Alexander Valley. I don’t have anything against grapes but they’re taking over.” Johnny’s 11 acre spread is a slice of cowboy heaven with horses, cattle, barns and corrals amid the patchwork of vineyards that define the Alexander Valley. He has 12 horses on the property and some cattle he uses for training the horses in cutting. Johnny is modest about his talents atop a horse, saying there are a lot of factors that come together to win a stock horse championship. “First of all, you have to have a good horse with lots of talent. Luck plays a big role because sometimes you get a crazy cow that doesn’t respect anything,” he said. The amazing thing is that Johnny Brazil competed so long and well past the age when most cowboys hang up their spurs. Johnny’s friends remember in 1996 when he was 74 and competed against guys and gals one third his age at the World Championship Snaffle Bit Futurity held in Fresno. In the stock horse world, this event is the equivalent of the National Football League Championships. Johnny, the oldest rider in the event, didn’t win the competition but he did beat our more than 100 other seasoned riders to tie for tenth place in the world championship. He earned a rousing, standing ovation from the more than 5,000 people attending the finals. Among those watching Johnny was his friend Terry Lindley. “It was pretty incredible that someone Johnny’s age was competing with so many top, younger cowboys,” said Lindley. Johnny’s wife Laurie has always been his biggest fan, going with him to the shows and competitions that were part of their life. “When our two girls were real little I would pack them up and off we would go to another horse show,” said Laurie, a native of Louisiana who found her place in the West with a real cowboy. The Brazils’ two daughters are Charlene Gould of Davis and Brenda Biery of Cloverdale. The Brazils have three granddaughters. Looking back, Johnny says one of the things he has observed is that the older he get the tougher it is to fall off a galloping horse. “The ground didn’t seem that hard when I was younger. Now there’s no give to it,” he said. Still he considers himself fortunate to live his dream as a cowboy -- running cattle on the range and competing in arenas from Reno to Salinas and every little town in between. “Most of my life I have done what I wanted to do and most of it was from atop a horse,” said Johnny. “I wouldn’t change a thing.”

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June 2011

Mulases Will be Honored as Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year Award Recognizes Sonoma Family’s Commitment to Land and Community

hree generations of the Mulas family work together producing wine grapes and milk on a family ranch that has become an agricultural landmark along Highway 121 between Sonoma and the community of Shellville in the Sonoma Valley. Travelers who zoom along this stretch of Highway 121 know that this is Mulas farm country, a bustling agricultural outpost where happy Holsteins graze in pastures that unfold on both sides of the road. Beyond the cows and corrals, grapevines march over farmland that has been in the Mulas family for three quarter of a century. The Mulases, pillars of the farming community, are being recognized as Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s “Farm Family of the Year” for their many contributions to agriculture including leadership in Farm Bureau that spans nearly 50 years. They are respected leaders who have diligently worked to preserve, promote and protect Sonoma County’s agricultural industry, which annually generates $3 billion in farm income. Farm Bureau leaders said the Mulas Family captures the spirit and determination of the family farmers who are the backbone of the Sonoma County’s farming industry. “When you look at what a farm family has accomplished, the Mulas family could easily be considered as the farm family of the century. They embody agricultural excellence and perseverance, community service and leadership in a way that makes others pale in comparison,” said Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. “The Mulas family epitomizes the definition of an outstanding farm family. The Mulases represent several generations of leadership and advocacy that has benefitted the agriculture industry and their community. The Sonoma County Farm Bureau is proud to select the Mulas family for this well-deserved honor and share with the community this family’s amazing story,” said McCorvey. The Mulas family will be recognized at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land celebration on July 13 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard at 3575 Slusser Road in Windsor. Two other award recipients will be honored at the event as well. Tom Crane, a Santa Rosa sheep, cattle and hay rancher who has been in the forefront of agricultural leadership for a half century, is being inducted into the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame. Clos du Bois Winery, a leader in sustainable farming and conservation, is Farm Bureau’s Luther Burbank Conservation Award winner, which recognizes the winery’s caring ways in managing land and resources. The Love of the Land celebration, a benefit for farmland preservation and clean water, is open to anyone who wants to join in honoring the Mulas Family, Tom Crane and the dedicated people at Clos du Bois who embrace the ideals of stewardship. All of the award winners have made remarkable contributions to Sonoma County agriculture and their communities. They are upholding the county’s rich farming heritage and preserving a way-of-life that enhances the quality of life for all county residents. Further information about getting tickets for the Love of the Land is available by calling Farm Bureau at 544-5575. In an era when most families are spread apart by time and distance, the Mulases, a

close-knit clan dedicated to family unity and community, work together on the family’s 1,000 acre. The Mulases, as down-to-earth as they are focused, provide the perfect profile of the modern American farm family. They are good managers who are environmentally aware and, like the generations before them, know the necessity of working from dawn to dusk to get the job done. “When you have a family ranch you learn to work together to get things done,” said Ray Mulas, who works with his mother, brother, sisters, children, nieces and nephews on the family ranches. The family’s agricultural enterprise includes more than 300 acres of vineyards and 500 acres of silage and pastureland for the 800 dairy cows. The Mulas Dairy produces both organic and conventional milk. Ray is the son of Nilda Mulas and the late Mitch Mulas, the iconic rancher, agricultural industry leader and beloved “chief” of the Schell-Vista Fire Department who died March 31 at the age of 82. The Mulas family is mourning the passing of the family patriarch, farm leader and Shellville fire chief who everyone, even family members, called “Chief.” Now the title of “Chief” has been passed to Ray Mulas who was named to succeed his late father in the top post of the volunteer fire department by the board of directors. Mitch had been associated with volunteer fire department for nearly 70 years. Ray, who had been assistant chief under his father, started as a volunteer with the fire department in 1972 when he was 18. Ray’s younger brother Mike was named assistant fire chief. It is testament to Mitch Mulas’s abiding spirit and profound legacy that 2,000 people including 150 firefighters from throughout Northern California turned out for his funeral on April 12. They all came to pay their respects while celebrating the remarkable life of a plain-spoken man known for speaking truth to power. Mitch Mulas was beloved. Farm Bureau directors unanimously selected the Mulas family for the 2011”Farm Family of the Year” but Mitch Mulas died before the award was publicly announced. The Mulases are one of Sonoma County’s most respected farm families. They are not only top-notch agricultural producers and land stewards, they are deeply involved in the community and in agricultural organizations like Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Mitch Mulas dutifully served as a director for 40 years and twice served as Farm Bureau president, a distinction shared by no one else in the organization’s 94-year history. Ray Mulas, who continues as a Farm Bureau director, was board president in 2003-2004. It was in January of this year that Mitch Mulas retired from the board of directors, saying it was time to move aside so someone younger could take his place. In his departing comments, he warned fellow Farm Bureau members to be ever vigilant in protecting their land and livelihoods from misguided public officials and bureaucrats who don’t understand agriculture or have other agendas for the land that is in farming. “We all need to stand up for ourselves, our farming businesses and for agriculture,” Mulas told Farm Bureau directors. His farewell message was greeted with a standing ovation. 116

The Mulas Family, who produce milk and wine grapes on 1,000 acres in the Sonoma Valley, has been named “Farm Family of the Year” by the Sonoma County Farm Bureau. The close-knit family will be honored on July 13 at the Love of the Land Celebration at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard in Windsor. In this photograph, four generations of the Mulas family gather in one of their vineyards in the Carneros region. Sitting on the hay bale to the right are family matriarch Nilda Mulas and the late Mitch Mulas, the iconic agriculture leader and Shell-Vista Department Fire Chief who died March 31. Photo by Brenda Hawkes The Mulases have a division of labor that suits their farming operation perfectly. Ray handles all of the equipment repair and farming for the 500 acres of pasture and forage crops -- all irrigated with recycled wastewater. Younger brother, Mike is the cow man, operating the dairy and the Holstein cattle breeding program. Sister Vickie Mulas does all of the bookkeeping and ranch records. A fourth sibling, sister Carolyn Mulas, works for a leading wine distributor but is keenly interested in the family’s farming operations. Family matriarch Nilda Mulas is always there to keep everyone going with good cheer and plenty of wonderful food from the kitchen in her home across the road from the dairy barns. For decades, she has answered the phone, which often meant dispatching Mitch, Ray or Mike from the barns or fields to a fire or a highway emergency. Now there is an empty seat at the kitchen table where the Mulas family still gathers to discuss family and business. But there’s always a nod to the Chief’s empty chair.

Ray Mulas heeds his father’s words as the family moves forward. “We are carrying things on the way they were. That’s what Dad would have wanted,” said Ray. “The plan is for us to keep farming as long as Sonoma County will allow us to farm.” It all started nearly a century ago - in 1914 - when Mitch Mulas’s father Mike Mulas Sr. left his native Sardinia and arrived in San Francisco where he started working in the shipyards. But wages were low so he headed north to Petaluma where he landed a job milking cows. By 1922, he had a farm and handful of cows at the south end of Sonoma Mountain. The dairy relocated twice more, before settling on the present ranch on Highway 121 in 1937. The ranch and cow numbers greatly expanded under Mitch and his brother Mario, who worked hard to make the ranch profitable. While everyone professes the lofty goal of preserving Sonoma County agriculture, said Ray, it often seems forces are conspiring to squeeze it out. He said there are more and more costly regulations that not only eat into farming revenue, they zap the strength of the overwhelmed and exasperated farmers who have to deal with them. 117

July 2011

Moretti Family Dairy is Sonoma County Fairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dairy of the Year

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espite the hard work and economic challenges of dairy farming, Mike and Monique Moretti say ranching is still the good life, something they plan to be doing for decades to come. Ranching, they say, is both a career and lifestyle that plays out each day on family land where everyone has a part in making the milk flow to the Clover-Stornetta Farms processing plant in Petaluma. The family is geared to a demanding schedule that is seven days a week, 365 days a year, Christmas and Thanksgiving included. The Moretti family wouldn’t have it any other way as they uphold a rich tradition that represents the intersection of farm and family. “The sign at our gate says Moretti Family. That means we all work together as a family to get the job done,” said Mike Moretti, 43, who runs the family’s 250 cow dairy with his wife Monique and their children, Amanda, 17, and Danny, 15. “Even with all the ups and downs of the dairy business, I wouldn’t want to do anything else,” said Mike, blessed with an easy manner and positive attitude. “It’s the quality of life. Where else do you have the chance to eat breakfast with your kids, then take them to school and be here working on the ranch when they come home from school and do their chores on the ranch. I love getting up every morning to start a new day. There is no better way to raise your kids.” Monique, who was raised on a Petaluma dairy as the daughter of ranchers Don and Bonnie DeBernardi, agrees. “Family is very important to us and having the opportunity to raise our children on a working dairy where good wholesome values are instilled has been the biggest reward,” said Monique. “We believe dairying isn’t just what we do, dairying is who we are.” Even Amanda and Danny share in the family’s dedication to dairy farming and rural way of life. Amanda, a June graduate of Tomales High School where she was an honor student and valedictorian, will attend Cornell University in New York this fall to study animal science, maybe one day returning to the family dairy to produce a Swiss gruyere cheese. Danny, a sophomore at Tomales High School and historian of the Tomales FFA Chapter, likes welding and mechanics, spending his time building metal gates for the ranch. Passion and dedication are what drives the Moretti family, making them outstanding producers in the Sonoma-Marin Dairy Belt where cows are part of the region’s culture. The Moretti Dairy is the Sonoma County Fair’s “North Bay Dairy of the Year,” an annual award that pays tribute to a dairy in Sonoma, Marin or Mendocino counties for its management practices, animal husbandry, milk quality and agricultural and community leadership. The appearance and cleanliness of the dairy also are factors in the selection process. The Moretti Dairy, located on Whitaker Bluff Road, a rural back road in West Marin County, gets an A in that category, being the picture image of a working family farm. The barns and fences are painted and the premises as neat and tidy as a city park. Mike and Monique believe a dairy should look as clean and wholesome as the milk produced on that farm. “We really do make an effort to keep the ranch looking nice, not only because we

take pride in this place but want people to know that we care about our cows and the consumers who drink our milk,” said Mike. Although he didn’t grow up on a dairy ranch, he started showing registered Jerseys as a 4-H Club member when he was nine years old. The Mortettis are active in school, community and agricultural organizations. They are members of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Monique serves as a trustee of the Shoreline Unified School District. Mike formerly served on the board of Western United Dairymen and the North Bay Dairy Herd Improvement Association. The Moretti family will be awarded the Edward J. Maddalena Memorial trophy during the Sonoma County Fair’s Dairy Cattle Show on August 6. The Sonoma County Fair, featuring one of California’s largest agriculture exhibits, is July 27 through August 14. The Maddalena trophy is particularly meaningful to Mike Moretti because he worked for Maddalena’s Dairy Supply Co. before going into the dairy business 20 years ago. The opportunity for Mike to become a dairy farmer – a long-held dream - came when Monique’s father, Don DeBernardi, a successful dairy rancher and agriculture leader, acquired a 300 acre West Marin ranch formerly owned by Annabel Henning. The ranch has been a dairy farm since the 1930’s. “We started with 70 cows,” said Mike, who spent months upgrading the barns and water system. Over the years, they have added free stall housing to provide better conditions for their growing herd of cows. A new calf barn was added a few years ago. Today, the ranch has 250 cows but as the Morettis make the transition to organic milk production they are looking to downsize their herd to 200 cows. On Sept. 1, the first 100 cows will complete the transition and begin producing organic milk for CloverStornetta Farms. The opportunity for the Morettis to ship organic milk to Clover came when 10 producers left Clover earlier this year to join a Wisconsin-based organic milk company. The Morettis jumped at the chance to produce the higher-value organic milk. They believe conventional milk production is doomed in the North Bay because of the high production costs, which makes it difficult to compete on the commodity market with the mega dairies in the Central Valley. They say organic milk production is a niche market ideally suited to the smaller dairies in the North Coast where the lush pastures provide both forage and room to roam for the region’s contented cows. The Morettis said shipping organic milk to Clover was their chance to continue in a business they love. But they acknowledge that dairy farming in the Sonoma-Marin Dairy Belt faces many challenges. “Besides environmental regulations, the biggest challenge for us is that due to geography and climate we aren’t able to grow our own crops, so we purchase all of our hay and grains from outside the area. This subjects our operation to the volatility of the hay and grain markets. We combat this by using a grazing system for our cows and heifers,” said Mike. In addition to the 300 acres on their ranch, the Morettis lease an additional 400 acres of coastal grazing land for their cows and heifers. Mike said his guiding philosophy is “Keep it Simple,” which means he is always working on ways to do the best job he can in the most simple ways possible. It’s a philosophy that has worked well to make the Moretti family one of the top dairy producers in the North Bay. “Receiving the North Bay Dairy of the Year Award is a great honor,” said Mike. “It’s an award that recognizes what we are doing as a family.”

The Moretti Family on their coastal dairy in West Marin County. The family includes Mike and Monique Moretti and their children, Danny, and Amanda. The Moretti Dairy is the Sonoma County Fair’s Outstanding North Bay dairy. The Moretti family will be honored during the fair, which runs July 27 through Aug. 14. Photo by Brenda Hawkes 119

August 2011

Sonoma County Fair Opens With A Splash to Mark 75 Years as County’s Best and Biggest Attraction he Sonoma County Fair opened July 27 to celebrate its 75th anniversary as a showcase for agriculture and a summer training ground for generations of farm youth who learned the basics of animal husbandry – and much more - as 4-H and FFA members competing in the fair’s judging rings. A preview of the Hall of Flowers on the eve of the fair’s opening kicked off the threeweek Diamond Jubilee Fair. A spectacular fountain, with a zillion-carat diamond, is the centerpiece of the Hall of Flowers, which features nearly 30,000 square feet of floral exhibits. This year’s flower show theme is “A Stroll Down Memory Lane,” which highlights some of the best loved themes of the last 25 years, like 2007’s “Snoopy’s Garden of Dreams.” Many of the props form previous shows, brought out of storage from the fair’s warehouse, are sparking wonderful memories of fairs gone by. “The Hall of Flowers design team led by Greg Duncan worked incredibly hard this year. The props, the water features, the florigraphs by Jacque Giuffre – they all worked together to create the perfect backdrop for this year’s beautiful professional gardens,” said Sheila Qunice, the fair’s exhibits supervisor. Hulsman Landscaping of Santa Rosa won the best of show award for the professional gardens with its exhibit based on the Alice-in-Wonderland them, “Looking Through the Looking Glass.” The Hall of Flowers is the main attraction for many fairgoers but it’s in the livestock barns at the south end of the 185-acre fairgrounds where the agriculture community comes together each year to bond and connect. This is where lifelong friendships were formed while lounging on bales of straw in the beef barn or lending a fellow 4-H member a pair of whites for Round Robin Showmanship. The fair kindles fond memories of going to Farmers Day to watch the sheep dogs and seeing folks you haven’t seen since Farmers Day the year before. This year’s Farmers Day is Aug. 7 and will include such delights as mutton bustin and wild cow milking. Following the Farmers Day Program in the Chris Beck Arena, there will be a reunion of the fair’s livestock exhibitors from the last 75 years. The reunion starts at 4 p.m. in Reynolds Park near the swine barn. In a world of commuters and computers, the fair remains a piece of Americana, simple and straightforward in a world that is not. It’s where we reconnect with Sonoma County’s rural roots and celebrate the rich farming history that continues to define the county’s landscape and lifestyle. It’s all there just like you remember from corn dogs to sheep dogs and cotton candy to woolly sheep. What would the fair be without the majestic Clydesdales and splash dogs? “The Sonoma County Fair is such a big part of the county’s social and cultural fabric, bringing so many of us together to celebrate our proud agricultural heritage. For me, it’s been a wonderful experience going through the old fair photographs of the last 75 years to see the generational continuity of the exhibitors in the livestock barns and the community support the fair has always enjoyed,” said Windsor rancher Saralee McClelland Kunde, a director of the fair. Saralee is as closely tied to the fair as anyone and is one of the fair’s

most exuberant champions. She worked in the entry department of the fair for many years and was a 4-H dairy cattle exhibitor. She continues as a 4-H leader and 4-H parent today while guiding the fair as one of the 15 directors on the fair board. The fair has launched many farmers and ranchers who continue to be a powerful force in the county’s food and farming industries. 4-H Club member Jennifer Bice built her goat project into the Redwood Hill Farm & Creamery, which distributes its award-winning goat cheese to markets around the country. Top rancher Tom Crane of Santa Rosa showed his Corriedale sheep at the fair as a member of the Santa Rosa FFA. Many other agriculture leaders including Farm Bureau directors Domenic Carinalli of Sebastopol, Doug Beretta of Santa Rosa, and Al Gerhardt of Occidental showed at the fair as members of the FFA. This year the fair runs an unprecedented 17 days, ending on August 14th. The fair is closed on Mondays. The highlights of this year’s Diamond Jubilee Fair: Hall of History Fair Museum: This very special exhibit showcases 75 years of fair history through a collection of photos and memorabilia donated by the fair, local museums, newspapers and community members. Guests can view photos from the first carnival in 1936 to the FFA Dairy Queens from the 1980’s and everything in between. A special exhibit on the 200th Anniversary of Fairs in America also shares this space, located in the building behind the Hall of Flowers. Diamond Jubilee Cattle Drive: On Sunday, August 7th, cowboys and wranglers will drive a herd of longhorn steers from Santa Rosa’s Courthouse Square to the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. The event kicks off with a special pancake breakfast at 8:00 am hosted by the Santa Rosa Firefighters IAFF 1401. Activities for children will be hosted by local non-profit groups and downtown merchants will offer specials and sales throughout the day. Don’t miss the special celebrity wranglers who will be riding along. The cattle drive begins at 10:00 am and should reach the fairgrounds by 11:00 am. Diamond Jubilee Review: Just like the vaudeville shows of the past, you never know what you’ll see at the Diamond Jubilee Review. This show features singers, dancers and novelty performers and takes place twice a day (three times on weekends) in the Redwood Theater. The Couch Potato: Maybe you saw him in 1988 when he was hired to watch TV and eat junk food for two weeks during the fair. The “exhibit” caused so much controversy; it received national media coverage, including an article in People Magazine! Come see how the Couch Potato has changed in the Garrett Exhibit building. Wine Country Racing: Don’t miss this year’s live Thoroughbred horse racing meet every Wednesday through Sunday at the fair. On opening day, the new saddling paddock will be unveiled between the 5th and 6th races. Famous racing mule Black Ruby will be making a special appearance on Sunday, August 7th at the races. Sundays will feature everyone’s favorite racing entertainment, the Derby Dog Dash. Junior Livestock Auctions: The Sonoma County Fair Junior Livestock Auction is one of the largest in the state and has brought in more than a million dollars each year since 120

2007. This year’s auction is expected to be another record breaker. Sale days are Sunday, July 31 at 9 am for swine and rabbits, Friday, August 5 at 9 am for sheep, goats and poultry; and the beef auction is on Saturday, August 6 at 6:30 pm. Headline Acts: It’s another year of big-name entertainment in the Chris Beck Arena. Check out Trace Adkins, presented by BC Powder, with Amy Scruggs on August 11th; Huey Lewis and The News on August 9th; and David Crowder Band on August 10th.There will also be a special Mexican Rodeo featuring Ezequiel Peňa on July 31. These shows require a separate ticket purchase in addition to fair admission.

The Golden Gate Bridge Exhibit: The Golden Gate Bridge celebrates its 75th anniversary on May 27, 2012. Thanks to the vision and dedication of engineer Joseph Trauss, the 1.2-mile long suspension bridge has taken its place among the wonders of world and is enjoyed by millions of people each year. To celebrate this remarkable milestone, the 2011 Sonoma County Fair will showcase this incredible icon with a historic exhibit depicting the original construction.

Kayla Ficco, 6, of Sebastopol is mesmerized by the diamond water fountain in the Hall of Flowers at the Sonoma County Fair, which continues through Aug. 14. The diamond fountain represents the fair’s 75th Diamond Jubilee. The fair’s 75 year history, as part of the county’s social and cultural fabric, is chronicled in the Hall of History located in the garden show annex behind the Hall of Flowers. Photo by Brenda Hawkes 121

September 2011

Sonoma County Fair’s 75th Anniversary Diamond Jubilee A Fair to Remember T

he Sonoma County Fair’s 75th anniversary Diamond Jubilee was certainly a fair to remember, a three week celebration that showcased agriculture, community and the fair’s enduring role as the glittering thread in the county’s social fabric. Who can forget the cattle drive through downtown Santa Rosa? Or the fabulous “Hall of History” that chronicled the events and colorful people who shaped the fair over the last 75 years. The new additions complemented old favorites like the magnificent Budweiser Clydesdales and the rough and tumble of the pig scramble, part of the Barnyard Olympics on Farmers Day. It was all there like you remember, from the doe-eyed Jersey calves to Mom’s Apple Pie and the Pasta King to mechanical bull riding. It’s where city and country folks came together to celebrate the county’s agricultural heritage. Fair officials, still busy tallying records and receipts, said all in all it was a great fair and a worthy 75th edition of the county’s biggest and most popular annual attraction. Now the challenge is to top it all next year. “The 75th Anniversary of the Fair will most definitely go down as historic” said Ross Liscum, president of this year’s Sonoma County Fair. “Our Museum showcasing 75 years of the Fair, the Cattle Drive through downtown drawing attention to our Agricultural roots, the Junior Livestock Auction raising over $1millin for the fifth straight year, three weeks of horse racing, and all the other shows and attractions provided for our community. What a successful Fair.” According to the results that are still coming in, the opportunity to extend the fair to nearly three weeks certainly paid off in larger overall attendance and revenues. Fair officials are planning to do it again in 2012, running for three weeks with the tentative dates of July 25 to Aug. 12. Despite a turbulent economic climate at the beginning of this year’s Fair - as the Federal government debated issues around the debt ceiling and federal spending, and coupled with less-than-perfect Sonoma County weather with cold and windy evenings – attendance and spending at the fair were still quite strong overall. Although the final numbers won’t be released for a couple of weeks, the preliminary results show paid admissions were up 15.56%, with a total of 194,268 people, up from 168,111 in 2010. Not all concessions have been reported, but those that are in so far are already up over 12%, at $2,583,960. In 2010, concessions brought in $2,300,354, according to fair manager Tawny Tesconi. On-track betting was up over 2010 numbers, which is encouraging. In 2010, the on-track betting was roughly $4,007,000, while this year it was slightly more than $4,020,000. The off-track overall was down slightly from $37.5 million to $33.5 million, but considering that there were eight fewer thoroughbred races this year, that number is still comparable to the 2010 numbers. This year the Fair saw the return of some perennial favorites, such as the Valentine’s Performing Pigs and Circus Luna, as well as hilarious and surprise fair-favorites like the Wild West Turkey Stampede. There were a number of events and attractions added to the

schedule to celebrate the Fair’s 75th Anniversary. In particular, the Diamond Jubilee Cattle Drive, which brought an estimated 4500 spectators to downtown Santa Rosa on a chilly Sunday morning to watch the procession of 56 longhorn steers, as they made their way down Fourth and E streets to the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. Other commemorative events included the Diamond Jubilee Review, which entertained fairgoers with a vaudeville styled show, and the Farmer’s Day events, which revived many historical favorite events like Mutton Bustin’, Pig Scramble and the Greased-Pole Climb, among many others. According to Hall of Flowers designer Greg Duncan, this year’s theme, “A Stroll Down Memory Lane,” which brought back favorite themes and decor from past Flower Shows, was very warmly received by fairgoers. “I think everyone really liked having a chance to see their favorite themes and decorations from years past,” said Duncan. To commemorate the fair’s long and colorful history, the Garden Annex building was transformed into a museum of fair memorabilia, photographs and narratives that told the fair’s story. Dubbed the Hall of History, this attraction was a huge hit with fair-goers of all ages. Some of the displays included were from the fair’s archives, but many items were donated to the museum by the public, in an impressive display of community-support and fair-loyalty. Katherine Rinehart performed no small miracle by bringing all these photos and props together in an educational and interesting way. Many fairgoers spent hours in the Hall of History studying the exhibits, which truly captured the spirit of the fair and its place in the community. “Being the curator of the Sonoma County Fair’s 75th Anniversary Museum was one of the most rewarding experiences of my professional career,” said Rinehart. “The Museum exhibit received a great deal of praise with people commenting that the Museum should be an annual event.” This year’s headline concerts were big draws as well. Fans packed the Chris Beck Arena to see Huey Lewis and the News, the David Crowder Band, and Trace Adkins with Amy Scruggs. It was another noteworthy year for the 2011 Sonoma County Fair Junior Livestock Auctions. The combined total for all auctions broke the $1 million mark for the fifth year in a row, bringing in $1,039,788.20 - the best since 2008, before the economic downturn. The auction totals across categories have far outpaced last year’s record-breaking numbers, further emphasizing the community’s strong support of youth agriculture programs. “We were fortunate to have had warm, but not hot, days during this year’s fair. As compared to the unusually foggy and cool weather we had last year, this was nearly perfect daytime weather for an outdoor fair,” said fair manager Tesconi. She said the nights were still the typical Sonoma County weather of cool temps and fog, but there were several evenings where the fog didn’t roll into until much later, making it quite pleasant.

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Santa Rosa returned to its rural roots when cowboys and cowgirls drove a herd of Longhorn steers from Courthouse Square to the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. The cattle drive was held on Aug. 7 as part of the fairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 75th anniversary celebration and as the kickoff to Farmers Day, which was held that day. There were nearly 5,000 people lining Fourth and E streets to watch the steers as they moved through town to the fairgrounds. Photo by Steven Knudsen 123

October 2011

Hit the Pumpkin Trail in Sonoma County Farms Abound with Colorful Gourds for Halloween and Holiday Decorating

Austin and Avery Muelrath surround themselves with pumpkins during a visit to their Grandpaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s farm, Muelrath Ranches Pumpkin Patch on Walker Avenue in Santa Rosa. Grandpa is Bob Muelrath who got into the pumpkin and gourd growing business after getting out of dairy farming. Muelrath turned his cow pastures into colorful fields that produce 21 different varieties of pumpkins ranging from midget to gargantuan. Muelrath and other pumpkin growers throughout Sonoma County are open for the season. Photo by Steven Knudsen 124

all has been described as the most habitable season of the year and that description certainly holds true in Sonoma County where the agricultural bounty offers a comforting cornucopia of sensual delights. Fall brings the smell of fermenting grapes, the crunch of corn stalks and fields of colorful gourds – all cast in the shadowy slant of the afternoon sunlight. This is the time to hit the trail to pick a pumpkin or two at one of the many farms that stretch from Healdsburg to Petaluma. These pumpkin farms are mom-and-pop operations, offering the chance to enjoy a family outing – even a picnic – while finding the perfect orb to carve into a Jacko-Lantern or just prop on the front porch. While on the pumpkin trail, stop at country outlets along the back roads of Sonoma County to purchase fresh produce, cheese and meat for a fall dinner that celebrates the best of Sonoma County. And, of course, accompany it with glass of Sonoma County wine, preferably, a Harvest Fair medal winner. Muelrath Ranches, owned and operated by Bob Muelrath, is one of the farms on October’s pumpkin trail. Muelrath offers 21 varieties of pumpkins, everything from midget to giant orbs and colors that span the fall palette. He also grows an assortment of other natural home-grown fare for fall decorating including ornamental corn, corn stalks, winter squash and sunflowers. Muelrath, a director and past president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, started growing pumpkins on cow pastures after he got out of the dairy business. The family ranch, located at 3800 Walker Avenue in southwest Santa Rosa, has become part of Sonoma County’s growing agri-tourism market, which brings city folks to the farm to not only purchase produce but a farm experience. Muelrath said he strives to produce high quality, freshly picked products that are grown on site, sustainably farmed and are pesticide free. “Our Pumpkin Patch is unique both for the quality of our pumpkins and the size of our patch,” said Muelrath. “We have become known for the range of pumpkin colors and varieties we offer.” In addition to the on-farm sales, Muelrath’s fall decorations are used at wineries, festivals and restaurants and at weddings with an autumnal theme. The Muelrath pumpkin patch offers great family fun where kids can climb a haystack or wander through a hay tunnel to a spooky dungeon. Get lost in a cornstalk maze, take a hay ride or test your aim with the “pumpkin slingshot.” “Friday Night in the Pumpkin Patch” is held from 3 to 9 p.m. every Friday during October at the Muelrath Ranch. Admission is $10 and includes “Campfire in the Corral” where guests can roast a hot dog or marshmallows, have some hot cider and cookies, and take a night time hay ride. It’s advised that you call ahead for reservations (707-585-2195) because space is limited for these Friday night gatherings on the farm. In Petaluma, there are a number of places to get a pumpkin and experience the farm atmosphere. The Great Peter Pumpkin Patch, owned and operated by rancher-entrepreneur Larry Peter, is an old-fashioned delight for anyone hankering to return to Grandpa’s farm. A working dairy, the Peter Pumpkin Patch offers visitors the chance to not only pick a pumpkin but to dig for potatoes, milk a cow and eat cheese and ice cream while soaking up the fall weather in the agricultural-rich Two Rock Valley. Here cows outnumber commuters. The Great Peter Pumpkin Patch is open from 9 a.m. until dusk every day through October 31. There is live music on the weekend. The farm is perfect for educational tours and field trips. For group reservations call (707) 762-3446. The most visible pumpkin farm is, of course, the Petaluma Pumpkin Patch and Amazing Corn Maze along Highway 101 in Petaluma. Traffic slows as motorists gawk at the

corn maze and other attractions including pony rides during busy weekends in October. Farmer Jim Groverman, a homegrown product himself, has created what has become a pumpkin festival on the 10 acre farm between Highway 101 and Stony Point Road. The entrance to the Pumpkin Patch is on Stony Point Road. The farm features lots of pumpkins as well as a huge straw mountain for kids to climb and a farm animal petting zoo. The hours through October are 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. In the northern part of Sonoma County, there is the Oluf Ranches’ Pumpkin Patch at 899 Shiloh Road in Windsor. Rick Olufs, past president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, has built a thriving business on his 40 acre farm along Highway 101 and in the path of urban development. During the fall, Olufs focuses on bringing families to his farm to scout for pumpkins and enjoy an agricultural experience. There is a hay pyramid, petting zoo, hay rides and face painting. The Olufs Pumpkin Patch is open from 1 p.m. to dusk Monday through Friday and 9 a.m. to dusk on weekends through October. To schedule a large group tour or for more information call 838-7588. Here is the Great Guide to Sonoma County Pumpkin Patches Anderson Organic Vegetable Stand & Pumpkin Patch — 2-acre corn maze, mini-train ride, U-pick pumpkins. Open weekdays noon-6 p.m., weekends 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 4588 Bodega Avenue at Skillman, Petaluma. Phone 529-1270, thomas0943@sbcglobal.net. Adobe Pumpkin Farm — 6-acre corn maze, haunted house, gift shop. Open daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 2478 E. Washington St. at Adobe Road, Petaluma. Phone 763-6416. www.adobepumpkinfarm.com. Grandma’s Pumpkin Patch — Hay pyramid, corn field, climb-on tractors. Open daily 10 a.m. to dusk, 17740 Healdsburg Ave at Lytton Springs Rd, Healdsburg. Phone 4318058. www.grandmas-pumpkin-patch.com Great Peter Pumpkin Patch — Dig potatoes, milk a cow, baby animal petting zoo, U-pick pumpkins, hay pyramid, pumpkin ice cream, tractor rides, picnic areas, live music on weekends, no activity/entrance/parking fees. Open daily 9 a.m. to dusk. Spring Hill Jersey Cheese Company, 4235 Spring Hill Rd., Two Rock/Petaluma. Phone 762-3446. www.springhillcheese.com. Hale’s Apple Farm — Pumpkins plus 30 varieties of apples and heirloom tomatoes. Open daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., 1526 Gravenstein Hwy. N., Sebastopol. Phone 823-4613 Muelrath Ranches Pumpkins — Hay tunnel, corn maze, pumpkin slingshot. Open Monday – Thursday, 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.; Fridays, 3 -9 p.m., Saturdays and Sundays, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., 3800 Walker Ave., Santa Rosa. Phone 585-2195. www.muelrathspumpkins.com. Oluf’s Ranch Pumpkin Patch — Hay maze & rides, animal corral. Open Mondays through Fridays, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. for school and groups; 1 p.m. to dusk for the general public; Saturdays and Sundays, 9 a.m. to dusk, 899 Shiloh Rd., Windsor. Phone 838-7588. Petaluma Pumpkin Patch & Amazing Corn Maze - pumpkins, pumpkin patch-pick in the field, pumpkin patch- already gathered from the field, corn maze, prepicked produce, snacks and refreshment stand, restrooms, picnic area, petting zoo. 550 Stony Point Road, Petaluma, CA 94952. Phone: 707-781-3132. Free parking & free admission to the pumpkin patch Sunday- Thursday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday- Saturday 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Corn maze closes at 9:30 p.m. Don’t miss the Friday & Saturday “Night Maze”. www.petalumapumpkinpatch.com Peterson’s Pumpkins - Pumpkins, tomatoes, honey. 636 Gossage Avenue, Petaluma, CA. 94952. Phone: 707-765-4582. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. in October. www.petersonsfarm.com. 125

November 2011

Valley Ford Cheese Carves a Niche on the Bianchi Family Dairy where Bianchi-Moreda, along with her father Paul Bianchi and her brother Steve Bianchi, continue the tradition of raising and milking Jersey cattle. They have a total herd of 1,100 cattle and milk 440 head. Then the story jumps forward a century to the consolidation in the dairy industry that was driving mom-and-pop dairy farms out of business. The continuing thread in the ongoing story was the roller-coaster milk prices, skyrocketing hay and grain prices and the ever present tug of land and lifestyle that kept Bianchi-Moreda’s family milking cows despite the economic hardships. Bianchi-Moreda, a strong and determined woman who quickly rolls up her sleeves to get the job done, concluded it could not be business as usual on the family dairy because the economic climate was rapidly changing. She did the ranch books and could see profit margins being squeezed by the rising production costs and the low price for milk. Bianchi-Moreda knew her family had to create a value-added product from their cows’ milk because they couldn’t continue to sell milk at commodity prices and stay in business for the next generation. She began diverting some of her family’s rich Jersey milk from shipments to the processor so she could try her hand at making an Italian style cheese. “For nostalgic reasons, I wanted to replicate the Italian style cheese that was always under the glass dome on my grandparents’ kitchen table. I wanted to capture the flavor that I remembered as a child in my grandparents’ kitchen,” said Bianchi-Moreda. She took a cheese making short course at Cal Poly and talked to anyone and everyone who knew about cheesemaking including the Callahan family, owners of neighboring Bellwether Farms, a sheep dairy in Petaluma. In addition to sheep milk cheese, Bellwether Farms produces a cow’s milk cheese using milk purchased from the Bianchi family’s Mountain View Jersey Dairy. Bianchi-Moreda transformed in old dairy building into the cheese-making room, which looks like a hospital operating room with its white walls, tiled floors and stainless steel equipment. . Sanitation is crucial in cheese making. A massive, century-old barn, where Bianchi-Moreda’s ancestors once milked cows by hand, houses the storage rooms where the cheese ages for months and years, depending on the variety and the customer. In addition to the Estero Gold, Valley Ford Cheese Co. also makes a cheese called Highway One. It’s a version of an old style Fontina, with a silky, creamy texture. Both cheeses won double gold awards at the 2010 Harvest Fair. Bianchi-Moreda’s cheese-making business really took off when son Joe returned to the family dairy after graduating from Cal Poly last December. During his years at Cal Poly, Joe had completed internships at cheese making plants around the country including Leprino Cheese in Michigan. “Since I started we’ve tripled production, doubled inventory space and added three new distributors,” said Joe, noting that production has increased from 400 pounds of milk a week to 1,200 pounds a week. He said additional storage space for aging cheese is needed

lot of start-up companies hire high-priced marketing agencies to develop a compelling story about their business, paying professionals to script a narrative that can generate well-placed stories in magazines and newspapers. Sonoma County dairywoman Karen Bianchi-Moreda had a great story, she just needed the business to go with it. In fact, she said, it was her family’s story of survival, hard work and perseverance that compelled her to start a farm business that showcases her ancestors’ rich history of life on the land in the Sonoma-Marin Dairy Belt. Three years ago Bianchi-Moreda founded the Valley Ford Cheese Co. and began making a farmstead Italian-style cheese that’s similar to the flavorful cheeses still crafted by her dairy-farming relatives in the Italian Alps. Two years out of the chute, BianchiMoreda’s cheese was winning awards and critical acclaim from chefs who were smitten with its nutty, buttery flavor and Alpine mountain character. Then, last month BianchiMoreda’s aged Estero Gold, a rustic cheese handmade in the style of an Asiago, won best of show at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. It was a triumph that added another chapter to the story of Bianchi-Moreda’s bold quest to position the family dairy to be financially viable for her sons Joe and Jim and future generations on her family’s 640 acre Mountain View Jersey Dairy in Valley Ford. The scenic ranch with its white barns, lush pastures and brown cows is one of those iconic dairy farms that dot the countryside between Petaluma and Bodega Bay. “We are blessed to have earned the recognition we have after only three years making cheese. This venture is totally a family business that would not be possible without the support of my father Paul and brother Steve and, of course, the rich and wonderful milk from our herd of Jerseys,” said Bianchi-Moreda, who has been joined in the cheese venture by her oldest son, Joe Moreda Jr., 23, the fifth generation to work on the family dairy. Joe earned a bachelor of science degree in dairy science from Cal Poly with an emphasis in dairy product technology. Younger son Jim also is studying dairy science at Cal Poly where he is preparing for a career in the dairy industry. “The awards for our cheese reflect our dedication to preserving a way-of- life that we value. Cows are what we know and what we do. We are very proud of our heritage as dairy farmers and pleased to be creating brand new cheeses based on the traditional methods of cheesemaking used by our ancestors,” said Bianchi-Moreda, a director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau and a member of the advisory committee for the Sonoma County Agricultural Preservation and Open Space District. When Bianchi-Moreda’s cheeses began winning double gold medals and best of show honors she didn’t have to scurry to a public relations consultant to hone her story for the media. The story was already there. It was a story she knew well growing up on a multigenerational family farm. Hers was a story of family history and survival that started with her Swiss-Italian immigrant ancestors who came to the North Bay in the late 1890’s to establish a dairy farming business that is now in the fifth generation. In the early 1900’s her paternal great grandparents, the Bianchis, purchased the 640 acre ranch in Valley Ford 126

Karen Bianchi-Moreda and her son, cheesemaker Joe Moreda Jr. in the cheese plant at the family’s Mountain View Jersey Dairy in Valley Ford. Bianchi-Moreda started making an Italian-style cheese three years ago to enhance the financial viability of her family’s dairy. The cheese won best of show honors at this year’s Sonoma County Harvest Fair. Photo by Steven Knudsen product is certainly in the plans for the near future. Strong demand is driving the increased production, which keeps Bianchi-Moreda traveling to accounts around Sonoma County and the Bay Area. She handles 54 accounts, ranging from G&G Market to the Palace Market in Point Reyes Station, and sells her cheese at up to six farmers markets. In addition, she works with three distributors in the San Francisco Bay Area and one in San Diego. She is proud that the Jersey cows on her family’s dairy are under the Certified Humane program, which assures consumers that the cattle are treated humanely. Bianchi-Moreda said it’s a third party verification of the way her family has always treated the Jersey cows in their care. “These cows are our babies,” she said.

before he can further increase production. “The only thing holding us back is space,” said Joe, who makes cheese three to four days a week. For Joe, it’s a dream come true to be back on the ranch producing a high quality cheese from the farm’s Jersey cows. He feels a special connection to a ranch where his great, great grandfather once milked cows by hand where the generations before experienced the joys and challenges of dairy farming. “It all fell into place. This is where I want to be,” said Joe. “To make it in the dairy industry today, dairies in Sonoma and Marin counties have to produce organic milk or a value added product like cheese. We can’t compete on the commodity milk market with the big dairies in the Central Valley.” Being young, eager and ambitious, Joe has ideas for developing new cheeses and cultivating new market territories including the Central Coast. He said a fresh cheese 127

November 2011

Willie Bird Turkeys Take Flight for the Holiday 9,000 of the Sonoma County grown turkeys will be shipped for Thanksgiving

Beagle Brodsky, manager of Willie Bird Turkeys, surrounded by Willie Birds at the Benedetti ranch in east Santa Rosa. Photos by Steven Knudsen 128

n the Monday before Thanksgiving, 9,000 Willie Bird turkeys from Sonoma County will get on planes for flights around the country, arriving in homes from Seattle to Baltimore in time to be stuffed and roasted for the holiday meal on Nov. 24. It’s a major logistical undertaking that involves United Parcel Service, major airlines and airports in San Jose, Oakland, San Francisco, Sacramento and Los Angles, plus eight truck and trailer big rigs. Coordinating all this frenzied activity at the Willie Bird control center in west Santa Rosa, is Greg “Beagle” Brodsky, a transplanted Aussie, who uses his computer, cell phone and a whirling fax machines to make sure that the Sonoma County turkeys get to where they need to be for Thanksgiving. Brodsky admits he breathes a big sigh of relief once the turkeys get on the planes for their Thanksgiving trip. “It’s an unbelievable undertaking. The logistics to get the turkeys to customers around the country is just monumental. It’s amazing that the birds are shipped on Monday and arrive at most destinations on Tuesday,” said Brodsky, the general manager at Willie Bird Turkeys for the last 35 years. Willie Bird Turkeys is owned and operated by Willie Benedetti, his brother, Riley Benedetti, and their cousin, Rocky Koch. The Benedetti family has been raising turkeys in Sonoma County since 1948 “I didn’t know what a turkey was until I started at Willie Bird,” said Brodsky, who came to the US to play rugby. He worked on Christo’s Running for 10 months before joining the Benedettis at Willie Bird. He has been part of the family-owned company’s success by developing new markets and poultry products. Fourteen years ago, Williams-Sonoma, the upscale food and culinary supply store, took notice of Willie Bird and began selling the free-range Sonoma County grown turkeys through its mail and online catalogue. This year Williams-Sonoma customers have ordered 9,000 Willie Bird turkeys, nearly one third of the 30,000 turkeys that Willie Benedetti and his partners will slaughter for Thanksgiving this month. The turkeys are transported from Sonoma County to a USDA inspected poultry plant in Turlock where they are slaughtered. The birds are stored in a Los Banos cooler until shipped out Thanksgiving week. The dressed birds, packed in cooling chests and packed with ice, will go to every state in the continental United States, said Brodsky, himself amazed at the coordination of land and air travel that in a few days delivers turkeys everywhere - from apartments in Manhattan to cabins in Wyoming. This year Williams-Sonoma is charging from $85 to $175, depending on the weight, for the Willie Bird turkeys. It’s part of the success and growth of the trademarked Willie Bird Turkeys, a family owned business that also includes the Willie Bird Restaurant in Santa Rosa and a line of smoked duck and chicken products. Willie Bird’s smoked duck is so good it has been served to the Queen of England. “We use nothing but the highest quality poultry. Our commitment to quality control allows us to produce a meat product that is smooth and mild-flavored,” said Brodsky. “It’s a delight even to the most discriminate palate, like the Queen of England.’ The company has grown and prospered and remains one of Sonoma County’s iconic, family owned businesses. The Benedetti family has been raising turkeys in Sonoma County for 63 years but it was in 1963 that the trademarked Willie Bird name was born. That’s the year that Willie Benedetti, then a freshman at Sonoma Valley High School, raised 500 turkeys as a Future Farmers of America project, hatching a multi-million dollar annual business and becoming one of Sonoma County’s best known family farm operations. illie Bird has become the Cadillac of turkeys, commanding a premium price because it’s Sonoma County-grown, free range and fed a diet of organic grains. “Heck, we’ve just kept raising our turkeys outside the way everyone did in the old days. We used to call them ranch-raised. Now they call them free range,’’ said Benedetti,

a fourth-generation Sonoma County rancher. The name Willie Bird was coined by a plain-talking hairdresser named Beverly in Petaluma. It was on Thanksgiving eve in 1963 that farm boy Willie Benedetti walked through John King’s Beauty Salon in Petaluma to deliver Beverly the fresh-dressed turkey she had ordered. She crowed “Here comes the Willie bird.’’ Beverly’s bird was one of the 500 turkeys the Benedetti brothers, with Willie as ringleader, had hatched from eggs and then raised and slaughtered as the main event for Thanksgiving dinner. The budding entrepreneurs were banking on turkeys to make extra money on their family ranch on Stage Gulch Road in Petaluma. None ever dreamed it would become a lifetime career that would one day generate millions in annual sales. The hairdresser’s Willie Bird declaration became part of Sonoma County’s agricultural history and the trademarked name of the Benedetti family’s business. The Benedetti family still raise turkeys on the ranch in Petaluma but the but the main ranch, where about 50,000 broad-breasted white turkeys roam oak-covered hills, is on Calistoga Road in east Santa Rosa. The family business grew from 500 Willie Birds in 1963 to the more than 30,000 turkeys that will be plucked and stuffed for Thanksgiving dinner this year. Another 18,000 Willie Birds are being fattened on the Benedetti family’s Sonoma County turkey ranches for the Christmas trade. Willie Bird has been able to buck the trend toward mass-produced turkeys as the poultry industry consolidates, today dominated by a few huge companies. “Quality and service are the reasons for Willie Bird’s success. Our turkeys are moist, juicy and extremely flavorful. The butchers like dealing with us because we come through with a good bird year after year,’’ Benedetti said. “We’ve carved a niche for Willie Bird. We aren’t like anybody else,’’ he said. One of the problems with free range turkeys is the loss by predators, said Brodsky Each year, the Benedettis lose about 500 turkeys to coyotes, mountain lions and a family of eagles that nest in the hills above their Santa Rosa ranch. Still it’s worth the losses to produce a high-end turkey valued by Thanksgiving diners and the retailers who want to provide their customers a quality bird. “Willie Bird is an excellent turkey and different than others on the market. Besides, it’s produced locally and we like supporting Sonoma County agriculture,’’ said Teejay Lowe, chief executive officer of his family’s G&G Market in Santa Rosa.

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December 2011

Make it a Country Christmas, Sonoma County Style This Christmas avoid stuffy department stores with their monstrous piles of cheaply made goods from overseas and head to the country – Sonoma County Farm Country to do your holiday shopping

ou will be giving the gift of genuine concern not only for those on your Christmas list but local agricultural businesses. It’s a great way to support the farms, ranches, agricultural processors, wineries and restaurants that keep the Sonoma County economy humming 365 days a year while keeping the landscape green with orchards, vineyards and vegetable farms. And the recipients of your gifts will love having something delicious and natural rather than a fondue pot or polyester sweater mass-produced at factories in foreign counties. Keep this Christmas local. And real. Considering the scope and diversity of Sonoma County agricultural products, there is bound to be something for everyone on your holiday list, from apple butter for Aunt Agatha to Russian River pinot noir for Cousin Fred. There are cheeses, fruit baskets, turkey jerky, honey, jam and jellies just waiting to be adorned with ribbon and bows for Christmas gifting. Also, the majority of the main ingredients for your Christmas dinner are available from the farms and processors in Sonoma County. A ham from Bud’s Meats in Penngrove, potatoes from Foggy Bottom Farm in Healdsburg or persimmons for the Christmas pudding from Gabriel Farms in Sebastopol are among the places to shop for holiday dinner fare. Think outside the box store this year and head to farm country. Start your seasonal shopping by taking a scenic back road to the village of Occidental in western Sonoma County where you won’t have to worry about parking meters or traffic jams. Occidental, surrounded by redwood and fir forests, is postcard Christmas. The town, known as Calorie Canyon because of its famed Italian Restaurants, is decked for the holidays and brimming with holiday goodies. A visit to Occidental surely will get you in the spirit of the season, particularly after an Irish coffee or hot brandy at one of the town’s bars. Then enjoy ravioli or chicken cacciatore at Negri’s or the Union Hotel before setting out on a journey to cut a Christmas tree or to shop for tasty stocking stuffers at Kozlowski Farms in Forestville or getting a famed pie at Mom’s Apple Pie in Sebastopol. Barbara Gonnella of the Union Hotel is Sonoma County’s version of Mother Christmas as she spreads cheer and goodwill during the Yuletide season. Each December Barbara and her daughter Gienna Michel Gonnella bake thousands and thousands of gingerbread cookies - stars and gingerbread people of every size - offering them for sale by the cookie or basketful at the Hotel’s bakery café. Barbara and Gienna Michel love the holidays and the spirited camaraderie it spawns in the community. Each year, the Union Hotel holds a community Christmas party with caroling, hot cider and gingerbread cookies – some 3,000 of them –for the guests who assemble in the Hotel’s Bocce Ballroom. This year’s Community Christmas Party at the Union Hotel is the evening of Dec. 19. “It’s our way of giving back to the community,” said Barbara, known for her uber energy, creativity and old-world hospitality. “I love baking the cookies and decorating the hotel for Christmas. The baking and decorating inspire the magic of the holidays.” Gienna Michel, a student at Santa Rosa Junior College, is the fourth generation of the Gonnella family to work in the Union Hotel, which is owned by her grandmother Lucille

Panizerra Gonnella. Lucille was born into the business founded in 1925 by her parents, the late Carlo and Mary Panizerra. A basket of gingerbread cookies from the Union Hotel is a great gift for fellow office workers or as a festive treat to bring to a Christmas party or your kid’s teacher. To order cookies call the Union Hotel at 874-3555 or visit the website at www.unionhotel.com for the hours of operation. There are hundreds of other great gifts available throughout Sonoma County for Christmas giving to family and friends. Instead of wandering aimlessly along rural back roads in search of Christmas gifts, the staff at Sonoma County Farm Bureau has come up with some of our favorite picks to get you started on your country Christmas shopping adventure. But as you travel to Hector’s Honey or Angelo’s Meats don’t be afraid to visit another farm store along the way – it just might yield the perfect gift for that crotchety rich uncle. Here are a few of our favorite picks for shopping. All are Farm Bureau members who give back to the community in so many ways. Now it’s time to support them and get wonderful gifts at the same time. Kozlowski Farms: 5566 Highway 116, Forestville 707-887-1587; website, www.kozlowskifarms.com Kozlowski Farms offers a taste of country that has been perfected over the last 60 years by family matriarch Carmen Kozlowski who at 85 still puts on her apron to help out in the family business where three generations work side-by-side to produce specialty foods from the Russian River Valley. Kozlowski Farms offers a huge array of gourmet and natural foods including jams, jellies, preserves, mustards, berry vinegars, salad dressings, chipotle grilling sauces, steak and barbecue sauces, fruit butters and spreads. The bakery makes pies, tarts and cookies. This year Kozlowski Farms is offering gift boxes that you can fill with the different products that line the shelves of the retail farm store. Kozlowski Farms has a seasonal store in the Santa Rosa Mall but go the farm in Forestville for the country experience. After all, this is one of Sonoma County’s oldest family-owned and operated farms. Angelo’s Meats: 2700 Adobe Road, Petaluma 707-763-9586; website, www.angelossmokehouse.com Proprietor Angelo Ibleto, known as Sonoma County’s Sausage King, is famous for his smoked sausages and line of other smoked goodies including bacon, poultry and salmon. His beef and turkey jerky have become international favorites because he sends the jerky to troops serving overseas. The walls of his shop are filled with photographs and letters from service men and women throughout the world who have enjoyed Angelo’s jerky and generosity. A trip to Angelo’s Meats is like stopping at a family-run smokehouse in Europe. Angelo, a bigger-than-life character with a heart to match, is always there stuffing sausages or smoking strips of meat. A package of jerky makes a great stocking stuffer for the hunter on your list. It packs up easily and makes a quick and nutritious snack in the 130

have made the business a destination for those who love to dabble in the dirt. Full House Farm and Katherine’s Kitchen: 999 West Sexton Road, Sebastopol 707-829-1561; website, www.fullhousefarm.com Full House Farm is one of the original agri-tourism spots in Sonoma County, offering farm stays tied to educational programs that focus on “sustainable living from the inside out.” One of the attractions for Christmas shoppers is a line of wine and fruit jellies from Katherine’s Kitchen. The jams and jellies, along with goat milk goodies from the farm’s resident dairy goat, are available at the Honor System Kiosk in the farm yard. The kiosk, a converted chicken coop, is open from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. every day of the week. Select your jelly and jam – strawberry merlot, pinot noir, chardonnay, lemon curd and more – and then leave the money in the kiosk. Deal done. “I trust people,” said Christine Cole, the energetic proprietor of Full House Farm. Christine said the jams and jellies are the farm’s best-selling items. “The color, the taste, the unique representation of Sonoma County’s best, all add up to a perfect gift idea,” said Christine. Petaluma Creamery & Spring Hill Jersey Cheese: 711 Western Ave., Petaluma 707-762-3446; website, www.springhillcheese.com An array of fantastic cheeses can be collected and put in gift boxes at the Petaluma Creamery’s Retail Store, which is open year round from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. and on Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Larry Peter is the proud proprietor of Petaluma Creamery, which makes a killer pepper jack cheese as well as other creamy delights from local cows’ milk. You can sample the cheeses at the store and buy the ones you like. While shopping at the retail store, enjoy some of Larry’s homemade ice cream, a coffee drink or a deli-sandwich. Everything is fresh, homemade and reasonably priced. Larry Peter will give a 10 percent discount on any purchase to anyone who mentions they saw this article in the Sonoma-Marin Farm News. So bring your copy of the Farm News and head to Petaluma for old-fashioned treats at 10 percent off.

duck blind or perched on a rock. Hector’s Honey Farm: 2794 Fulton Road, Santa Rosa 707-579-9416; email, hectorshoneybees@comcast.net Hector Alvarez rides herd on hives of busy, hardworking bees that produce prizewinning honeys – blackberry, wildflower, star thistle and lavender. His star thistle honey, a delight to the senses, won best of show in the honey competition at this year’s Sonoma County Harvest Fair. Hector also offers honeycombs, bee pollen and hand-dipped beeswax candles. Hector spends a lot of time peddling his honey and beeswax candles at farmers markets. You can find him at the Original Santa Rosa Certified Farmers Market held on Saturday and Wednesday mornings in the parking lot at the Santa Rosa Veterans Memorial Building. If you are going to visit Hector’s farm on Fulton Road call ahead and make an appointment. Like his bees, Hector is very busy and often buzzing along the freeway to markets. Harmony Farm Supply & Nursery: 3244 Highway 116 North, Sebastopol 707-823-9125; website, www.harmonyfarm.com As patrons have been known to say, “Everything is harmonious at Harmony Farm Supply.” And indeed it is from the earth friendly pest control to the friendly and knowledgeable employees. This is the place to shop for holiday greens, like holly wreaths, or gifts for the gardener like garden carts, gloves, wind chimes and potting benches. The holy comes from a local farm and is fresh and prickly. Additionally, there are a variety of ornamental shrubs, fruit trees and organic vegetable starts, plus live Christmas trees balled in burlap. If you are stumped about what to get, buy a gift certificate so the gardener on your list can get a jumpstart next spring. Founded in 1980 by Kate Burroughs and David Henry, Harmony Farm Supply was a pioneer in the Organics Movement as a supplier of organic fertilizers, ecological pest controls, and integrated Pest Management monitoring tools. A nursery was added in 1990 when it moved to its present location. In 2007 Harmony Farm Supply was purchased by Rick Williams and his wife Leah who

Gienna Michel Gonnella decorates the Union Hotel in Occidental with gingerbread cookies fresh from the oven. Gienna Michel, a fourth generation member of the family that owns the historic Union Hotel, and her mother Barbara Gonnella will roll up their sleeves to oversee the baking of more than 3,000 gingerbread cookies this holiday season. The gingerbread men are among the many homemade or locally grown products that can be purchased for holiday gifts from farms, wineries and agricultural processors in Sonoma County. Photo by Steven Knudsen 131

January 2012

Bosworth General Store Moseys into its Second Century as Family Owned Business

Harry and Karen Bosworth in their century-old Bosworth & Son General Store in Geyserville. The iconic general store serves as the place to get saddles, grain, nuts and bolts as well as the local news of the day. The store was established in 1911 by Harry Bosworthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grandfather. Photos by Steven Knudsen 132

or 100 years Bosworth & Son General Merchandise in Geyserville has been the place where townsfolk stop for a sack of grain or a bit of gossip, sometimes both, and never leave disappointed. This year the Bosworth general store moves into its second century as an anchor on Geyserville’s main street and as the heart and soul of the tiny town in northern Sonoma County. Little has changed at the old store since it was founded in 1911 by Maine pioneer George Bosworth, the grandfather of present day proprietor Harry Bosworth, who at 73 is a grandfather himself. Saddles still hang from the ceiling, farm implements are propped against the walls and bins of nails stretch across wooden floors as old and creaky as grandma’s rocker. The front window promises paint, tack, feed, hardware, grain and “cigarettes and tobacco.” It’s a convenience store for the country crowd - the rural landowners, ranchers, backyard farmers, cowboys and wannabe cowboys who inhabit the area around Geyserville. The store, like its proprietor, is a link to a time when prunes and pears were the main crops around Geyserville and vast flocks of sheep grazed in the surrounding hills. The orchards have been replaced by world class vineyards and the sheep devoured by coyotes. The family milk cow is gone but fancy Quarter horses take Old Bossie’s place in the pasture. The store once served farmers and ranchers but now German and Italian tourists try on the Stetson cowboy hats that are stacked on shelves by the front door and Wine Country day-trippers from San Francisco buy local honey, toy tractors or Western wear. Area residents pop in for light bulbs, bolts or a piece of pipe, hanging around to swap stories and catch up on the news not generally printed in newspapers. Bosworth and his wife Karen, institutions in this small town, are the welcoming merchants as this old-fashioned emporium, which has stubbornly resisted change and, by keeping its character, is now country cool. “The store has become a museum piece because we have kept it like it was in the old days,” said Harry Bosworth, a longtime member of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. He proudly has a sign proclaiming his Farm Bureau membership in the store window. The building the store has occupied for 100 years was purchased by Bosworth’s grandfather in the early 1900s. It once housed a buggy shop, a tinsmith and an undertaker’s parlor, which did a thriving business selling caskets for the dead who would be buried in the cemetery owned by the Bosworth family. Bosworth said the family store may continue with little change for at least another generation because his daughters, Gretchen Crebs of Geyserville and Rachel Prat of Healdsburg, are committed to keeping the historic store in the family. Gretchen works in the store on Mondays and helps out with the other family businesses. Bosworth said he does not plan to retire anytime soon but looks forward to gradually transitioning the businesses to the next generation. Bosworth, a fourth generation Sonoma County resident, serves as the unofficial mayor of the unincorporated town. He is on the board of the Geyserville Fire Department, Odd Fellows Hall and Geyserville Chamber of Commerce. He is treasurer and a 45 year member of the Kiwanis Club. Bosworth also owns the Geyserville Water Co, which serves 320 people, and the town cemetery, Olive Hill Cemetery, a 10-acre burial ground with about 1,000 graves. Three of his great grandfathers are buried there. Last year, he said, there were four burials at the rural cemetery, down from the 20 burials that occur most years. He said the combination of the three businesses – plus his 15 acre cabernet sauvignon vineyard that supplies grapes to Silver Oak Cellars – keeps him going financially.

“If I just had to live on the revenues from the store alone it would be slim pickins,” said Bosworth. He notes that his customers are a mix of local residents and Wine Country tourists. “This area is getting more touristy,” Bosworth said. “During the week days the customers are primarily local residents but starting Friday afternoon and all day Saturday 90 percent of the customers are tourists.” Bosworth, who traces his Sonoma County roots to 1857, grew up in Geyserville. Except for a stint in the Army that took him as far as El Paso, Texas he has never left town. He never wanted to if the truth be known. “I never had enough money for a bus ticket out of here,” jokes Bosworth. “And these days I only travel as far south as Windsor.” Bosworth at one time served as the ticket agent for the Greyhound Bus passing through Geyserville. Nowadays, the UPS driver often leaves packages at Bosworth’s store for people who live in remote areas in the hills around Geyserville. Bosworth said he just fell into the routine of the small town and the family businesses. When he returned from the Army he started an electronics repair shop and ran a hardware store before taking over Bosworth & Son General Store from his father. In 1967 he married Karen, the daughter of a Healdsburg doctor. She graduated from the University of the Pacific and worked in the medical field including eight years as a clinical scientist for the Healdsburg General Hospital. She volunteers at health clinics and, like her husband, is a stalwart volunteer in the Geyserville community. She has served five terms on the Sonoma County Board of Education. Like many folks immersed in small town life and rural living, Bosworth is completely content with his corner of the world and holding the reins of the family businesses. He lives a mile from the store and doesn’t have to deal with two hour commutes, traffic jams, corporate rules or a snarky boss. He’s got two draft horses, two mules and a wagon, which keeps him connected to his pioneer roots. And he knows just about anyone and everyone in and around Geyserville. “I never looked back and wished I had done anything differently,” said Bosworth. “It’s a nice lifestyle that is free of hustle and bustle.”

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February 2012

Bob Cabral of Healdsburg’s Williams-Selyem Hailed as World’s Best Winemaker W

hen Bob Cabral, winemaker extraordinaire at Healdsburg’s Williams-Selyem Winery, learned he was the winemaker of the year – for the world - he confesses near shock while experiencing emotions that ranged from exhilaration to regret. The regret was that his father and mentor, the late Robert Cabral, a farmer and agricultural leader in the San Joaquin Valley, wasn’t alive to share the glory of the global honor bestowed by Wine Enthusiast Magazine. Cabral was selected the winemaker of the year from a list of nominees that included winemakers from premier wine regions throughout the world. Not bad for a farm boy from Escalon who grew up watching his grandfather make jug wine in the barn. Cabral said his father, the son of Portuguese immigrants and a man of the land dedicated to farm, family and community, would have been busting with pride that his son had reached the pinnacle of success in the world of wine. Cabral’s father preached the virtues of hard work and doing one’s best as the way to succeed. Cabral stridently followed his father’s advice as he worked his way up in the wine industry, using his education, natural gifts and passion to become a winemaking star. “My one regret was that my dad wasn’t alive to see this because he is the one responsible for who I am today. Whatever success I’ve had is a reflection of him and our relationship. He and mom always supported me,” said Cabral, 49, who grew up on his family’s 70 acre ranch near Escalon. As a boy he pruned and harvested grapes and irrigated vineyards on the family vineyard and assisted his father who had a farm management business. He was a member of the 4-H and Future Farmers of America, raising livestock for the county fair. Cabral’s mother, Jean, continues to make her home in the San Joaquin Valley where she, like her late husband, is active in the San Joaquin County Farm Bureau. When Cabral graduated from high school, he brushed off the dust from the family farm and headed to Fresno State University where he earned a bachelor’s degree in winemaking with a minor in biochemistry. He admits he didn’t want to be a grape grower, moving to winemaking as a way to embrace his connection with the land, a knack for chemistry and his magnificent obsession with fine. Cabral’s passion for great wine, particularly pinot noir, was evident early on as he would spend every spare dime – and a good chunk of his student loans while a student at Fresno State – on buying wine from all over the world, especially Burgundy and Russian River Valley pinot noir. One of the first Sonoma County wineries he became passionate about was Willliams-Selyem, never dreaming that he would day be the winemaker. He joined the winery’s consumer list during graduate school in 1985 as customer No. 576, soon after experiencing the Williams-Selyem 1983 vintage. He was hooked. The Wine Enthusiast announced Cabral as the 2011 winemaker of the year last fall, part Left: Bob Cabral works with some of the best grape growers in the Russian River Valley to produce world class wines at Williams-Selyem Winery. Photo from Williams-Selyem Collection. Right: Cabral, his wife Heather and daughter Paige.

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decades. If anything, he said, his philosophy for producing fine wines is even more focused on the value of the grapes and the folks who grow them –nature and nurture. “The key is to respect the vineyard and value the fruit,” said Cabral. “Working with some of the best growers and vineyards in the world allows us to farm to the highest possible standards and provides the finest fruit available.” Cabral said grape quality is particularly true with pinot noir, a finicky grape that can only achieve perfection in cool-climate areas, like the Russian River Valley, where the weather and soil combine to allow the grape to attain its ultimate flavors. “That’s more than half the battle with pinot noir. Once the fruit is taken care of, we intervene as little as possible,” said Cabral. “While there is no shortage of hard work in the cellar, you must still pay careful attention to detail as great wines are really made in the vineyard.” Cabral said his job is to guide the wines along and allow the flavors of each individual vineyard to be fully expressed. It’s clear that Cabral loves his work and Sonoma County. “Sonoma County is still the most beautiful place in the world,” said Cabral. “What I like is that there is still a lot of agriculture going on here, with a range of specialty and artisan farm products to match the county’s incredible wines.” Cabral’s agriculture roots run deep and he is both vocal and passionate about the important role of the American farmer. He believes agriculture is a noble profession but often gets a bum rap from misinformed people who don’t understand the value of locally grown food. He said education is key, which means farmers and ranchers must speak out about what it takes to farm while working with bureaucrats and elected officials to ease burdensome and costly regulations. “The more information people have about agriculture the better. Unfortunately environmental groups that seriously influence legislators and government agencies act on emotion, not facts and science,” said Cabral. He rates over-regulation as the biggest challenge to agriculture, even more costly and damaging to farmers than pests and diseases. Cabral makes his home in Healdsburg with his wife Heather and daughter, Paige, who is 10. He and his family travel the world for wine, living a lifestyle he never dreamed possible growing up on the farm in Escalon. He didn’t set out to seek fame and fortune, but it has come his way. “It’s surreal to think what my life has become,” said Cabral. “ I just wanted to make great wine but, again, I can hear my father saying that if you do it right the money will come.”

of the magazine’s annual awards to honor outstanding achievements in the international wine industry. In addition to Cabral as Winemaker of the Year, the magazine honors the Wine Person of the Year, Lifetime achievement Award, American, European and New World Winery of the Year and Wine Region of the Year. Cabral and the other award winners were honored at a black tie gala on Jan. 30 in New York City. Cabral was selected winemaker of the year from a list of stellar nominees that included Philipe Cambie of Southern France, Zelma Long of California/South Africa, Alvaro Espinoza of Chile, and Gerard Kracher of Weinlaubenhof Kracher in Austria. Cabral said just to be nominated and in the company of winemaking greats like Zelma Long and Philippe Cambie of France was humbling enough. When he got word that he was the winner for 2011 it was emotional overload. “I have to say I was overwhelmed - taken back and almost in shock,” said Cabral. The shock value was nearly equal to when his 2007 Wiliams-Selyem Litton Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (now Williams-Selyem Estate Vineyard) earned 100 points, a perfect score, from a major wine publication. It was the first American Pinot Noir to win a 100 point score, gilding Cabral’s reputation as one of the world’s best winemakers. Cabral said the announcement that he was Wine Enthusiast’s winemaker of the year came in October during harvest and the heated frenzy of crush, which meant he couldn’t be overwhelmed for too long. He took a deep breath and rolled up his sleeves, getting back to the work of winemaking at one of the premium wineries in America. Williams-Selyem, founded by regular guys Burt Williams and Ed Selyem, was acquired in 1998 by John and Kathe Dyson of New York. The Dysons have invested millions of dollars in a winery and hospitality center to give Williams-Selyem a permanent home at 7227Westside Road. Cabral said the award not only recognizes his accomplishments, it’s tribute to the land and all the people who are part of the combined effort in each bottle of Williams-Selyem wine. It also recognizes the world-class wine coming from this corner of the world. “The award is good for the Williams-Selyem brand and good for the Russian River Valley and Sonoma County,” said Cabral. He looks forward to the day when the Russian River Valley will be named Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s Wine Region of the Year for the incredible pinot noir and chardonnays being produced. Cabral’s rise in the world of wine was through his own determination, passion and the meticulous and patient approach he takes to crafting the ultimate expression of the grape in a glass of wine. Cabral isn’t from an aristocratic wine family, like the Mondavis, or blessed with wealth and family connections. He made it on his own the old fashioned way by hard work and earning the respect of vintners, like Jess Jackson, who employed him during his enological journey to become the celebrated winemaker he is today. Cabral started his career fresh out of college at a large winery south of Fresno working in the Central Valley for several years, eventually landing in Sonoma County where he knew he could hone his skills and learn to make wines that could rival the best made anywhere in the world. In Sonoma he worked at various wineries before becoming winemaker at Williams-Selyem in July of 1998. Previously, he was the associate winemaker at De Loach Vineyards, Custom Crush winemaker at Kunde Family Estate Winery, winemaker at Alderbrook Vineyards and winemaker at Jess Jackson’s at Hartford Court Winery in Forestville. Cabral said he had profound respect and admiration for Jess Jackson. He said one of the hardest things he has ever done was submitting his resignation to Jackson when he was hired at Williams-Selyem. Having just finished his 14th vintage at Williams Selyem and his 32nd vintage at a commercial winery, Cabral said his winemaking philosophy has not changed over the 135

March 2012

Sonoma Countyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Homegrown Twin Chefs Audrey and Lilly Andrews Will Promote Healthy Eating at Ag Days

Audrey and Lilly Andrews, the Twin Chefs, in the Ginger Grille Kitchen at G & G Supermarket in Santa Rosa. The 10-year-old chefs are passionate about local food and healthy eating. They will bring their message to more than 5,000 kids who will attend Sonoma County Farm Bureauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ag Days on March 27 and 28 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. Photos by Steven Knudsen 136

t 10-years-old, Audrey and Lilly Andrews, identical twins from Sonoma County, are passionate foodies, dutifully spreading the word about healthy eating and the culinary joys of farm products from their home county. Audrey and Lilly, known as the Twin Chefs, aren’t just talking to their friends and neighbors in Sonoma County, which they do regularly at local fairs and food festivals. They have appeared on ABC’s “Good Morning America” where they did air time making pizzas with celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck, one of their culinary heroes. The girls are so cute and articulate they have been hired as the official “spokes-chefs” for Cuties California Clementines and Mandarins, which are now being marketed across the nation. The girls just returned from a taping in Atlanta to promote the healthful aspects of Cuties and to share their delicious Cuties-inspired recipes. Working with their mom Tina Schultheiss, the angelic ambassadors of good eating maintain their own food website – www.twinchefs.net – where they share recipes, party ideas for kids and grown-ups and tips on cooking with kids. Their motto is “kid friendly food with grown-up style.” Audrey and Lilly will bring their message of local foods and healthy eating to other kids at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Ag Days on March 27 and 28 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. There will be more than 5,000 school kids from throughout Sonoma County attending the event, which includes farm animal displays, exhibits related to the environment and resource conservation management and composting demonstrations. Ag Days are held to educate kids about Sonoma County’s annual $3 billion farm industry and the value of food grown a few miles – not thousands of miles - from where it’s consumed. At Ag Days, the twins will be partnering with Sonoma County farmers to showcase local farm products. Audrey and Lilly said they look forward to the opportunity to help promote Sonoma County agriculture and to encourage other kids to explore healthy alternatives to junk food and mega-processed snacks. The girls’ idea of fun is going to farmers markets to scout the stalls to buy local produce and meat for the family dinner. They love Sonoma County and the abundant agriculture that defines a lifestyle that the budding chefs’ totally embrace. Their goal is to one day have their own restaurant in Sonoma County, featuring the county’s bounty and their own boundless love for delicious but simply-prepared food. “We believe in healthy eating and cooking. We want kids to eat more fruit and vegetables and get away from fast food,” said Audrey, who says she loves to eat seasonally and locally, like heirloom tomatoes in September and Gravenstein apples in July and August. Instead of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, she will pack fresh figs and a wedge of goat cheese in her lunch bag. Lilly likes figs and goat cheese, too, but confides she absolutely loves Brussels sprouts. She then tells about her favorite way to prepare Brussels sprouts, a dubious veggie that causes most kids to gag. Audrey said she recently tasted veal tongue for the first time and thought it was delicious. “I didn’t like veal tongue,” said Lilly, “It was too tough.” Despite veal tongue, both girls love just about any fruit, vegetable, cheese and meat product – as long as they are fresh and not overly processed. It’s their mission to get other kids to eat their peas and pears and kick their fast food habits. And please don’t mention McDonald’s or Burger King to Audrey and Lilly, who would never let a Big Mac pass their lips no matter how hungry they were. They said if forced to order something from McDonald’s there is only one thing they would possibly order. “Ice water,” they say in near unison. Lilly and Audrey were only four years old when food and cooking became their magnificent obsession, in the way other kids connect with video games, Legos or Barbie

dolls. Older sister Kathryn, who is 12, doesn’t share her sisters passion for food. Kathryn loves horses, spending her time in the corral rather than the kitchen. The girls said they became enthralled with cooking after being in the kitchen with their parents, mom Tina and dad Paul Andrews, a hazardous-materials specialist, who loves to bake and barbecue. This is a family that gleans and cooks together, often going on outings to gather the ingredients for a feast for family and friends. When toddlers, the twins started watching the Food Network, instead of cartoons, becoming regular viewers of Alton Brown’s “Good Eats” and other cooking programs, which nurtured the girls’ innate curiosity about the world of food. There is evidence that their fascination with food is in their DNA. Mom Tina said she knew the girls’ had a special gift for discerning food flavors when, at age 4, they argued whether a yogurt parfait had orange zest or lemon extract in it. The girls still argue occasionally over things but, says Lilly, “we fight the least when we are in the kitchen.”

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April 2012

Ag Days Brings the Farm to Town for 5,000 Kids Sonoma County Farm Bureau sponsors 32nd annual Ag Days at the Fairgrounds

fter a long, dry winter, no one was complaining when a powerful storm dumped up to five inches of much-needed rainfall over Sonoma and Marin counties, leaving the participants in Farm Bureau’s Ag Days a bit drenched, if undaunted. Despite the rain and cold weather, Ag Days was held on March 27 and 28, not only showcasing local agriculture but the resilience and determination of the farmers and ranchers who came together to educate urban school kids about Sonoma County food production, sustainable farming and land stewardship. It also was a lesson in coping with Mother Nature. “It shows the kids that even when it’s raining farmers and ranchers come through, doing what they have to do to take care of their crops and animals,” said Santa Rosa livestock rancher Christie Stucker-Ennis, who brought an Angus heifer and two Boer goats to Ag Days. It was her first time as an exhibitor at Ag Days but she vowed to return next year to join other ranchers in giving school kids a meaningful farm experience. She said it’s important to educate the next generation about the source of their food and the county’s thriving farm industry. She said most urban school kids do not have the opportunity to see and touch farm animals. Ag Days provides that opportunity. Because of the rain, numbers were down slightly from last year’s record 6,000 students. An estimated 5,000 students, 1,000 parents and 300 teachers attended Ag Days, soaking up the sights, sounds and smells of farming while sampling milk, apple juice, cheese, fresh apples and honey sticks. “Please touch” was the order of the day. There were baby chicks, ducklings and goslings from Western Farm Center and baby goats from the Kracker ranch in Santa Rosa. The Crawford family brought a Hampshire sow and her eight piglets. The children were able to wander through a hay maze created by rancher Norm Yenni of Sonoma and stare down a leggy Wagyu beef heifer from Petaluma’s Spring Hill Ranch & Vineyard, owned by Chris and Karen London. Kids looked up at the giant Belgian draft horses brought from Bodega by rancher Pat Prather and looked down at “Peanut Butter,” the miniature horse owned by James Cannard of Sonoma. The students watched cunning sheep dogs herd ducks and marveled at the dexterity of sheep shearer Judd Redden as he used electric shears to fleece woolly sheep. They petted chickens and ran their fingers through pungent compost. “It’s important for all of us in agriculture to educate young people about farm life and what it takes to grow the food that we all eat as consumers,” said livestock rancher Joe Pozzi, president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Bodega livestock rancher Walt Ryan, a director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau and chairman of Farm Bureau’s Agriculture Education Committee. Teachers said Ag Days gives students the foundation to begin the educational journey to understand where their food comes from and the purpose of the farmland they see from the car on Sunday drives. At Ag Days, they can actually touch the old brown

cow that they know from their storybooks. They hear baby pigs squeal and smell what comes from the backend of a kid goat. “At Ag Days, the children begin to see a connection between what is happening on a farm and what is happening in their lives. Hands-on experiences are valuable learning tools,” said Bonny Russell-Larrain, a kindergarten teacher at Apple Blossom School in Sebastopol. She has been bringing her students to Ag Days for years and has her students participate in the Ag Days contests. Carla Peterson, a teacher at Graton’s Pacific Christian Academy and a longtime participant in all facets of Ag Days, said the Ag Days tour at the fairgrounds is a fabulous experience for her students. “Ag Days has something for every student. Students are able to find something interesting or learn something new. I like the fact that everything can be enjoyed by all ages,” said Peterson. “Students are able to see and make connections, viewing the entire process of food production. For example, students can view calves, see cows, learn about how “mammals make milk”, learn about by-products and then taste milk and cheese.” Additionally, she said, “Children can also make the connection between healthful food, nutrition, exercise and health. Students also can see how agriculture relies on other sciences.” Ethel Tedsen, a teacher at Prestwood School in Sonoma, said fewer and fewer kids come from a farming background, so programs like Ag Days are important in helping them understand that agriculture is a significant part of Sonoma County’s landscape and economy. “As Sonoma County becomes more populated, an event like Ag Days helps the students see how our farmland is being used, which gives them an appreciation of local food production,” said Tedsen. In addition to the exhibits and demonstrations, the kids were able to taste the best of Sonoma County. Kids munched on Gala and sampled cheese from Petaluma Creamery, Clover milk and apple juice from Manzana Apple Products in Sebastopol. “Ag Days is a unique opportunity where we can educate children, parents and teachers all together about the importance of agriculture to their lives and to the community,” said Bodega livestock rancher Walt Ryan, a director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau and chairman of Farm Bureau’s Agriculture Education Committee. Over the last 32 years, Ag Days has grown into a major event to represent the many facets of Sonoma County agriculture. Farm Bureau and the Sonoma County Fair sponsor Ag Days but many agriculture-related groups and individual ranchers support the event. Patricia Alexander of Kenwood again organized the horse demonstrations at Ag Days, using kids versed in horsemanship to show what kids can do with horses. Horse trainer Raye Lochert of Santa Rosa was the announcer at the horse demonstrations, using his 138

the Ag Days Dinner where parents, teachers, principals and agriculture leaders came together to recognize the accomplishments of the students who were winners in the Ag Days contests. Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, was the emcee for the awards program. Awards were presented by Sonoma County supervisor David Rabbitt, Dr. Steven Herrington, superintendent of the Sonoma County Office of Educaiton and Larry Haenel, president of the Santa Rosa City Schools board of education.

skills, knowledge and horse sense to educate kids about horses and horsemanship. In addition to the Ag Days exhibits and demonstrations, Farm Bureau also sponsors a number of contests aimed at making children think about the source of their food and fiber. This year the theme of the contests was “Healthy Farms, Healthy Foods.” Hundreds of school children entered the contests, which included categories for the best bookmark, poster, essay, scarecrow, mural, farm photograph, farm video and decorated grocery bag. The winners in the various contests were recognized at Farm Bureau’s Ag Days Awards Dinner on March 27. There were more than 650 guests at 139

May 2012

Rex and Kerry Williams are Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year First Generation Ranchers Carving Niche Markets for Lamb and Sheep Milk Cheese

Rex and Kerry Williams and their children Wyatt, 17, and Olivia, 9, on the family ranch in Sebastopol. The Williams will be honored as Farm Family of the Year at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land celebration on July 19 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard in Windsor. Photo by Steven Knudsen 140

ex and Kerry Williams, first generation farmers who are proving that you don’t have to marry or inherit a farm to be ranchers, are Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year. The award recognizes the Williams family’s hard work and perseverance in becoming successful livestock ranchers in Sonoma County while generously giving back to the agricultural community. The Williams family epitomizes the true grit of the modern American farmer and the daily challenges that farmers face in producing food and fiber. “The Williams family is a shining example of people committed to making a living in agriculture by diversifying and working as a team to reach their goals,” said livestock rancher Joe Pozzi, president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. “Through their creative marketing programs with lamb and sheep’s milk cheese, Rex and Kerry are providing an opportunity for their children, Wyatt and Olivia, to experience agriculture in Sonoma County for another generation.” The Williams Family will be honored at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land barbecue and awards program on July 19 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard in Windsor. The summer event, featuring Sonoma County food and wine, will celebrate the best of Sonoma County including farm people like the Williams family who are doing their part to preserve the county’s ranching tradition. The Love of the Land celebration, open to the public, will benefit Farm Bureau’s programs for preserving farmland and protecting water, the two resources vital to farming and its future. Besides land and water, the other key components for success in agriculture are passion, hard work and sheer determination, all part of the DNA of Rex and Kerry Williams, who started from scratch with no land or livestock. They decided they wanted to be ranchers, then rolled up their sleeves and went to work to make it happen. Today, Rex and Kerry are the owners and operators of Williams Ranches, a Sebastopol-based ranching company that produces top quality lamb as well as hay and silage crops. They also are the principal partners in Black Oaks Sheep Dairy, which produces milk for high end sheep’s milk cheese. The Williams milk 75 head of dairy sheep – a cross of the Friesian and Lucaune breeds – on the home ranch on Blank Road in Sebastopol. Black Oaks Sheep Dairy is the fifth licensed sheep dairy in California and part of the growing cheese industry in Sonoma-Marin counties. The other partner in Black Oaks Sheep Dairy is cheesemaker Seana Doughty, owner of Bleating Heart Cheese, who uses the milk from the Black Oaks Sheep Dairy to make her artisan cheeses. Her cheeses, sold under the Shepherdista, Fat Bottom Girl and Mixtress labels, are marketed primarily through Tomales Bay Foods and available locally at Oliver’s Markets, The Epicurean Connection in Sonoma and The Cheese Shop in Healdsburg. The Williams Ranches lamb is sold direct from the ranch and at the Healdsburg Farmers Market and the Original Santa Rosa Farmers Market. The lamb comes from the Williams’ commercial flock of 300 Dorsets, a breed of white-faced meat sheep, that graze on leased land on Llano Road in west Santa Rosa. They hand pick each lamb for harvest, making sure lamb wearing the Williams Ranches label has the perfect back fat and cover to yield flavorful cuts of loin chops and rack of lamb. Their logo is “From Our Pastures to Your Table.” Tending to more than 400 meat and dairy sheep, direct marketing their Williams Ranch lamb while farming hay and silage crops keeps the Williams family super busy but they wouldn’t have it any other way. “If we didn’t absolutely love what we do it would be stupid because of the hours we spend doing this,” said Rex, 46, who works full time as the maintenance supervisor at St. Francis Winery. “I used to put in an eight hour shift after my regular shift at the winery but now as I get older I only put in a four or five hour shift after my regular day job.” Rex also is an ace auctioneer, calling the junior livestock auctions at the Sonoma County Fair

and at fund-raising events for agricultural organizations like Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Kerry, the full-time rancher in the family, also is Mom to Wyatt, 17, and Olivia, 9, running the kids to swim lessons and band practice between ranch chores and trips to Dixon to deliver lambs for slaughter and to pick-up of the processed meat. “It’s 24-7 with no vacations,” said Kerry of the ranch life. She gave up her full-time office job to build the family’s livestock business, developing direct markets for Williams Ranches Lamb. She prefers herding sheep to the stress of managing budgets and employees in an office environment. “For me, ranching is who I am,” said Kerry, formerly the executive director of the Sotoyome Resource Conservation District. “I am the happiest and most fulfilled when I am on the land and working with the livestock.” She has no regrets about giving up her office job, even when lambing in the freezing cold or bagging wool in the summer heat. She finds it rewarding to produce high-quality lamb that is gilding Sonoma County’s reputation as California’s premier wine and food region. “The worst day on the ranch is still better than sitting at a desk in the office,” said Kerry. She moves between the home ranch in Sebastopol and the leased ranch on Llano Road to tend her flock, watched over by four Great Pyrenees guardian dogs. Like most modern day, younger ranchers, Rex and Kerry are more sensitive to environmental issues than previous generations of ranchers and they embrace marketing as a way to enhance the value of their lamb. “We live in an area where people really appreciate good food and want to be involved in how their food is produced and where it comes. They support locally grown products. We look at the Bay Area’s unique commitment to quality food as an opportunity,” said Kerry. She has developed a website, williamsranches.com to reach consumers and tell the family’s story. Kerry said her biggest reward is hearing from satisfied consumers. “It just makes my day when someone calls to say our lamb was the best lamb they have ever tasted,” said Kerry. Rex and Kerry said their hard work has paid off but they got some help along the way from two very special people, Bruce Campbell of Healdsburg and Phoebe Sorensen of Sebastopol. Bruce Campbell who developed the CK (Campbell Kids) Lamb was a mentor and remains a close friend to Rex and Kerry. They worked for Campbell from 1991 until 1996, tending his flock of 600 sheep and working in the CK lamb meat cutting room, learning ranching skills and quality meat production. Eventually, Rex and Kerry purchased Bruce’s sheep flock and took over the ranch lease on land owned by the City of Santa Rosa along the Laguna de Santa Rosa. Phoebe Sorensen also took an interest in the Williams family. After her husband John died and she got out of the Christmas tree farm business, Phoebe leased her land and barns to Rex and Kerry for their purebred sheep and, later, the sheep dairy. Recently Phoebe split off 10 acres from her ranch property and sold it to Rex and Kerry, giving them a home base for their family farming operation. Phoebe is delighted with the non-stop activity on her ranch and pleased that the land is being used as a working farm “It’s a win-win situation for all of us,” said Phoebe. Olivia is active in 4-H and will show market animals and breeding sheep at the Sonoma County Fair. Wyatt was in 4-H but is passionate about music and involved in the music program at Analy High School. Wyatt often helps with selling Williams Ranches lamb at the farmers markets. Rex and Kerry said they are proud to be part of Sonoma County agriculture and plan to be ranching for the long haul. And beyond. “In heaven I will be herding sheep and baling hay,” said Rex. 141

June 2012

Al Cadd, the Man of the Russian River F

or all of his 86 years, Al Cadd has lived on a bend of the Russian River that meanders through the Alexander Valley, the agriculturally-rich vale where his family has farmed since 1914. He considers himself a lucky man to live in a place that not only offers incredible natural beauty but fertile farmland that has sustained generations of families for more than 150 years. The Cadd family, spanning six generations in the Alexander Valley, has produced hops, prunes and apples over the last century and, at one time, operated a 50 cow dairy. Today, the family ranch, like most of Alexander Valley, is planted to wine grapes that achieve world-class eminence in the valley’s terroir. Cadd, equal parts farmer, environmentalist, hydrologist and rural philosopher, is a steward of the valley’s farmland and a vigilant protector of the Russian River and its fish, believing all are resources that must be preserved for future generations. He is committed to farming in a way that is ethical and sustainable, living the adage that if you take care of land and water it will take care of you. “In my heart I have always felt that we must preserve and protect what we have so there will be something left for those who follow us,” said Cadd, whose long and productive life is a profile in healthy, simple living on land he loves. He and his wife of 65 years, Alyce Cadd, who shares her husband’s passion for fishing, live in a two-story ranch house built by his grandfather in 1919. Cadd’s dedication to farmland preservation and his long tenure as keeper of the Russian River have earned him Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s 2012 Luther Burbank Conservation Award. The award recognizes Cadd’s stewardship and environmental ethic at a time when those values are such an important part of the public pact. “Al is a man with a passion about the environment, protecting nature’s steams and farmland. His commitment has helped make Sonoma County a better place to live and enjoy life,” said grape grower Jim Murphy of Murphy Family Vineyards in the Alexander Valley. Murphy grew up on his family’s ranch, which is across the road from the Cadd homestead. Over the years, Murphy has come to appreciate and value Cadd’s worth ethic, honesty and integrity as a neighboring farmer and conservationist. Cadd will be honored at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land celebration on July 19 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard at 3575 Slusser Road in Windsor. Also being honored are Art Lafranchi, a Santa Rosa rancher and attorney, who is being inducted into the Sonoma County Farm Bureau Hall of Fame and sheep ranchers Rex and Kerry Williams of Sebastopol who have been named Farm Bureau’s “Farm Family of the Year.” The Love of the Land dinner and celebration is a public event, open to anyone who wants to celebrate the land and people that define Sonoma County’s agricultural heritage. Ticket information is available by contacting the Farm Bureau office at 544-5575. Except for the two years he was in the U.S. Maritime Service following his graduation from Healdsburg High School in 1944, Cadd has lived and farmed in the Alexander Valley

Al Cadd, a grape grower and lifelong resident of the Alexander Valley, will be honored for his conservation work at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land Celebration on July 19 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard in Windsor. Photos by Steven Knudsen 142

additional gauges in three of the river’s tributaries. The gauges are linked by USB cables to a computer, which collects the data for analysis. The information is being provided to the California State Water Resources Board. “The data shows that water used for frost protection is not instantaneously lowering the stream flow. We hope this information convinces the powers that be that we are not hurting the fish in the Russian River and its tributaries in the Alexander Valley,” said Cadd. Cadd’s prevailing philosophy is “balance’ in the use of land and resources, like water. He believes farming and fish can both survive in the Alexander Valley. Balance also becomes an issue in the battles over gravel mining of the Russian River. He said judicious gravel mining is beneficial to the River and the people who live along its banks. “My feeling is that there is room for conservation, agriculture and gravel mining,” said Cadd, who has supported regulated gravel mining. “Leaving the River go wild is as bad as over-mining it.” Cadd believes the Russian River is a clean as it was when he was growing up and spending his time fishing from its banks. One thing has changed, however, and that’s the number of people who are at the river for recreation and relaxation, especially on weekends. “It’s really changed. When I was a kid I would go down to the river and dream of meeting someone there,” said Cadd. “Now it’s like Coney Island with people running up and down the River.”

while taking an active role in protecting the valley and the Russian River. He and his wife Alyce raised their two children, Larry and Cynthia, on the family ranch. Long ago, Cadd and other farmers formed the Alexander Valley Association to keep the valley in agriculture, beating back creeping subdivision and preserving it as a rural treasure. Today, the Alexander Valley is the picture postcard image of Wine Country. For the last 15 years, Cadd served as president of the Russian River Valley Property Owners Association, a leader in the river’s restoration. Earlier in his life Cadd worked for the Sonoma County Flood Control, a job that not only honed his natural interest in water but expanded his knowledge of water management and hydrological principles. “Al has been a leader of the Russian River Property owners who have funded stream and well monitoring in Alexander Valley with a goal of preserving grape growing while protecting threatened or endangered steelhead and salmon,” said Nick Frey, president of the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission. Cadd recently stepped down as president of the Russian River Property Owners because of the increased time demands for collecting vital information about waterways and wells in the Alexander Valley. For the last four years, Cadd has been monitoring stream flows in the Russian River and its tributaries, gathering data about the impacts of pumping water in early spring for frost protection in vineyards. He said the scientific data that he has collected proves that farmers are not harming fish by using river water to protect their vines from spring frost. From March 15 to May 15, Cadd and his son Larry Cadd, who runs the family vineyards, monitor water levels. They place four gauges in the main stem of the Russian River and 143

July 2012

Art Lafranchi Inducted into Sonoma County Farm Bureauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hall of Fame Lafranchi is being honored for his dedication to agriculture and tireless efforts to educate urban folks about farming

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ttorney, dairy farmer, grape grower and community leader, Lafranchi is as comfortable in his law office working with a family on estate planning as he is balancing feed rations for the Holsteins at his Santa Rosa dairy. He is the patriarch of the Lafranchi family, a man of the land and vocal advocate for agriculture – a great man who friends describe as the “original class act.” Lafranchi’s lifetime of achievement, which simultaneously spans a distinguished legal career, thriving farm operation and legacy of community service, is being recognized – and honored - by Sonoma County Farm Bureau, the county’s largest and most influential agricultural organization. Lafranchi, 75, is being inducted into the Sonoma County Farm Bureau Hall of Fame in recognition of his dedication to agriculture and his tireless efforts to bridge the gap between urban and rural residents by educating them about agriculture and farm life. For decades, Lafranchi has invited students to his ranch where he patiently explains the challenges and rewards of farming in Sonoma County. He even lets the students try their hand at artificially inseminating a cow, a task that has become a rite of passage for the youthful visitors. Farm Bureau leaders said Lafranchi’s role as a farmer-lawyer and agricultural ambassador have earned him a prominent place in the Hall of Fame, a who’s who of the agricultural greats in Sonoma County. “Art exemplifies the meaning of lifetime achievement to agriculture and community. He has been a passionate advocate for agriculture and always willing to teach others about the importance and realities of the dairy business,” said Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. “Art’s work as a dairyman, grape grower and attorney to the agricultural community, has benefited many who work the land and produce our food.” As a member of the Hall of Fame, Lafranchi joins a revered group of agricultural leaders and pioneer ranchers who have been the guiding force in preserving, protecting and propelling Sonoma County’s $3 billion farming industry. As the 2012 recipient, Lafranchi joins other legendary leaders like Richard Kunde, Henry Trione and Angelo Sangiacomo in the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame. Lafranchi will be honored at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land celebration on July 19 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard in Windsor. Also being honored are Sebastopol sheep ranchers Rex and Kerry Williams, who were named Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year and Geyserville grape grower Al Cadd, who will receive the Luther Burbank Conservation Award. The Love of the Land event, open to the public, is a benefit to preserve and protect Sonoma County farmlands and clean water while honoring those who are leading the way for agriculture. The celebration includes a food and wine reception from 5 to 7 p.m. A dinner featuring Sonoma County grown products will be served at 7 p.m. Dinner will be followed by the awards presentations and live auction. Reservations can be made by calling the Farm Bureau office at 544-5575. Lafranchi’s agriculture roots run deep in the North Bay. His great grandfather, Charles Martin, an immigrant from Switzerland, settled in Marin County in 1855 to establish a dairy, beginning the family’s long tradition of dairy farming in Marin and Sonoma counties. Lafranchi, the son of the late Fred and Zelma Lafranchi, grew up on the family’s dairy ranch in Nicasio where he learned the value of hard work and gained a deep-seated appreciation for the cow culture that defined his family. Following high school, Lafranchi attended Santa Clara University and then law

school at the University of San Francisco where he graduated with his law degree in 1963. In 1962, Lafranchi’s father started a new dairy on a 250 acre ranch off Piner Road in west Santa Rosa. Lafranchi took an active role in establishing and managing the dairy even while he was launching his law practice, which now spans 50 years. He eventually took over the dairy, called “Rancho Laguna,” because of its proximity to the Laguna de Santa Rosa, the waterway that snakes through west Sonoma County on its way to the Russian River. “I was born and raised in agriculture and have always just loved being involved in agriculture and managing the ranch,” said Lafranchi, who judiciously balanced his dual career as farmer and lawyer for the last half century. He likes the professional mix and the different people that his legal practice and farming brought into his life. “As an attorney, I like the idea of helping people maneuver their way through legal issues, like estate planning or closing a real estate deal. I enjoy the challenges and the prospect of learning something new on a daily basis because laws are always changing,” said Lafranchi. On the other hand, he said, it was nice to come home to his cows and get a good dose of reality. “Being on a dairy is a very humbling kind of experience,” he said. “Cows are only interested in you if you are going to feed them. If you aren’t going to feed them they head off to the next person who might throw them some hay.” Today, Rancho Laguna milks 450 cows, shipping its milk to Clover-Stornetta Farms in Petaluma. Lafranchi grows 150 acres of corn, which is made into silage for the dairy cows. He said producing a portion of his own feed has helped him survive in the dairy business, which is financially challenging because of high production costs and low prices for conventionally-produced milk. Lafranchi said the day-to-day work on the ranch is done by the farm crew, ably headed by Carlos Soria, who has worked at the Lafranchi ranch for 34 years and runs it like it was his own. Lafranchi said he would have sold the dairy cows years ago if it wasn’t for Carlos and his managerial expertise as the foreman of Rancho Laguna. Five years ago, Lafranchi, concerned about the future of dairy farming in Sonoma County, began planting cool climate wine grapes on his ranch, which is in the Russian River Valley. Today there are 61 acres of wine grapes, which diversifies the farming operation and provides a financial hedge to the ups-and-downs of the milk market. “The dairy situation was so volatile that I began converting some of the farmland to vineyards,” said Lafranchi. “I felt I had to do something to create a more stable business environment.” Lafranchi’s dedication to agriculture and his support of agricultural education has made him a valuable member of the board of directors of the Farm Bureau Foundation of Sonoma County, a non-profit organization dedicated to educating the next generation of agricultural leaders as well as the urban public about farming issues. Lafranchi served as a director and president of the Community Foundation of Sonoma County and is a director and past president of the United Way. Lafranchi and his wife Diane have five grown children, Rich, Ken and Jeff Lafranchi, Debbie Merizon and Teri Alvarez and 10 grandchildren. “I was born and raised in agriculture and have always just loved being involved in agriculture and managing the ranch.” ~ Art Lafranchi

Left: Art Lafranchi and his wife Diane. Photo by Brenda Hawkes 145

July 2012

Cattlewoman Bobbie Hall is Sonoma County Fairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rancher of the Year Rohnert Park woman rides herd on 220 cows in West Marin

Bobbie Hall and her dog Bailey on the back of her flatbed Dodge truck. Hall, a Rohnert Park resident who leases ranches in West Marin, will be honored during the Sonoma County Fairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Farmers Day program on Aug. 5. Photos by Steven Knudsen 146

arbara “Bobbie” Hall, a Rohnert Park resident who runs more than 200 head of beef cows on leased ranches spanning over 3,000 acres in west Marin County, is being honored by the Sonoma County Fair as the North Bay Rancher of the Year. The award is tribute to Hall’s dedication to cattle ranching and her decades of work in herd improvement through genetic selection and good management. She will receive the J.W. Jamison Perpetual Trophy during the Farmers Day Program on Sunday, Aug. 5 at the Sonoma County Fair. The fair runs from July 25 through Aug. 12. Hall, a humble, hard-working woman who confesses she is more comfortable around cows than people, is upholding a cattle ranching tradition that was started 60 years ago by her father. Hall is the daughter of the late Louis Bloom, a beloved cattle rancher and brand inspector known throughout the North Bay for his work ethic, cow sense and quiet dignity. “I was my father’s shadow, always tagging along with him on the ranches he leased,” said Hall, whose natural interest in ranching was honed by the years she spent as her Dad’s ranching sidekick. “I have always loved the cattle and I always wanted to be a cattle rancher like my father. I could never work in an office.” Hall and her father were partners in the cattle ranching operation for years and, then, following his death 20 years ago she took over the cattle herd on her own. She also followed in her father’s boot steps and was a regional brand inspector for two years in 2003-2004. Hall said the Sonoma County Fair’s North Bay Outstanding Rancher Award is a tremendous family honor. She considers the award as much for her late father and his ranching legacy as it is for her. “My Dad was dedicated to improving the cattle herd and that’s something that I have continued by using the best bulls through artificial insemination. I am really proud of the cattle herd that we have today,” said Hall, whose petite, lady-like demeanor belies her role as the real deal cattle rancher. Hall’s cattle are identified with her U2 brand, established by her father in the 1940’s. Hall said she can’t imagine her life without cows and the daily routine of overseeing her 220-head Angus herd, nearly half of them registered. “I wouldn’t have a life without my cows,” she said, “The cows are my life.” Hall’s ranching operation is unusual in the North Bay region but clearly shows her devotion to her cattle and way-of-life. She lives in Rohnert Park and does not own – or live on – any of the ranches where she runs her cattle. She leases five different cattle ranches, spread over more than 3,000 acres in West Marin County. The leased ranches include the Vedanta Retreat, a sprawling spread near Olema that is owned by an East Indian religious group. Her father started leasing the property in the 1940’s and she has continued the tradition. “The residents at Vedanta Retreat love the cows,” said Hall. Hall heads out early each morning - seven days a week, 52 weeks a year – from her suburban home in Rohnert Park to ride the ranges where her cattle graze. She sometimes saddles up her Quarter horse “Rocky” to sort cattle or check fences on far-flung corners of the ranch. Driving her Dodge Ram 2500 heavy duty flatbed truck, Hall and her dog “Bailey,” a Border Collie-McNab mix, make the rounds to different ranches to check on the cattle, feeding in the winter and making sure water troughs are full in spring and summer. With hundreds of cattle there is always something to do. “I leave the house every day and go from point A to point B and try to cover as much ground as I can,” said Hall. She said there is a seasonal rhythm to the year. Calving starts in August and is wrapped up by the end of September or early October. In November, the

cows are rebred. December is when she brands and vaccinates the calves. In February the calves are wormed. May is the second round of vaccinations. Steer calves are shipped in July, the busiest time of the year, said Hall. Hall raises and sells 30 to 35 breeding bulls each year. Most of the bulls are sold to other cattle ranchers in Sonoma and Marin counties but some of the bulls also go to a ranch in Nevada. During the busy times like branding and vaccinating, Hall gets “weekend” help from her husband, Tom, a full-time employee with Herb’s Pool Service, and son Jimmy, 33, who also has a job in town but is well-versed in his mother’s cattle business. Jimmy actively showed cattle as a member of the 4-H and FFA. Hall said her family spent many summers in the barns and judging rings when Jimmy was showing cattle at the fair. Hall said because she is basically, a one-woman show most of the week, she won’t tolerate aggressive bulls or mean cows with a crazy streak. They are sent down the road. Fast. “The cattle have to be gentle because it’s just me most of the time on these ranches,” said Hall. “A gentle nature in my cattle is the most important thing to me.” While she has no qualms about shipping the skittish and wild-eyed cattle, Hall admits that it’s hard for her to part with old cows and heifers as familiar as old friends. She spends so much time with her cows she knows them well. “These cows are not just a dollar sign to me,” said Hall. “I have a really difficult time getting rid of cows.” Hall said after years of breaking even or even losing money, she is now making some money because of the high cattle prices. Hall’s passion for cattle ranching has made her a respected producer in the cattle industry. Eight years ago she was named the Sonoma-Marin Cattleman of the Year. She is a member of the Sonoma-Marin Cattlemen’s Association and formerly served as a director of the Marin County Farm Bureau. Hall truly loves what she does and has carved a niche in the North Bay agricultural industry. She has no complaints about the long hours and hard work, planning to continue doing it for as long as she is able. She’s her own boss, gets to work outdoors among the black cattle that she loves. “There are no vacations or anything like that,” said Hall. “But being outside here every day with my cows is a vacation for me.”

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August 2012

County’s Agricultural Heritage Celebrated at Farm Bureau’s “Love of the Land” Nearly 1,000 people attend outdoor celebration at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard

here were nearly 1,000 people celebrating the agricultural bounty of Sonoma County at Farm Bureau’s “Love of the Land” held at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard where the county’s beauty was on full display among ancient oaks and sweeping vineyard vistas. Love of the Land, a benefit for farmland preservation and clean water, was held on July 19 to celebrate the best of Sonoma County including the hard-working farm families whose legacy of care and stewardship have made Sonoma County the special food and wine region it is today. Many of those enjoying the event’s near perfect weather, spectacular venue, food and wine couldn’t help thinking about their good fortune to live in Sonoma County. “We have a lot to be proud of in Sonoma County where agriculture plays such an important role in driving our economy and defining our landscape and way-of-life. It’s all about taking care of the land so it is there for the generations that will follow,’ said livestock rancher Joe Pozzi, president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. The evening drew a mix of people, urban and rural, from throughout Sonoma County and beyond. Attorneys and bankers rubbed elbows with farmers and ranchers while sipping wines from 36 wineries and sampling food from more than a dozen food purveyors during the Sonoma Grown reception. Then guests feasted on a barbecued beef and chicken prepared by Farm Bureau directors and Preferred Sonoma Caterers. The dinner centered on locally grown food including tomatoes produced by Kelley Parsons of Santa Rosa, chicken from Petaluma Poultry Processors, beef from Golden Gate Meat Co. in Santa Rosa and greens from Andy’s Produce in Santa Rosa. Pies from Mom’s Apple Pie and Kozlowski Farms, both in Sebastopol, and peach ice cream from Larry Peter’s Petaluma Creamery topped off the meal. It also was a night to toast the agricultural award winners honored by Sonoma County Farm Bureau. This year’s award recipients are Art Lafranchi of Santa Rosa, the Rex Williams Family of Sebastopol and Al Cadd of Geyserville - all dedicated to maintaining the rich farming heritage that remains the heart and soul of Sonoma County. Art Lafranchi, a Santa Rosa rancher and attorney who has worked diligently to educate urban students about agriculture, was inducted into the Sonoma County Farm Bureau Hall of Fame for his lifetime achievement in agriculture and community service. The award recognizes the giants of Sonoma County agriculture – the men and women who have made outstanding contributions to Sonoma County agriculture and the community. Past recipients include such leaders as Rich Kunde, Angelo Sangiacomo and the late Jess Jackson and Larry Bertolini. Lafranchi, 76, was unable to attend because of his poor health but through his son Ken Lafranchi he conveyed his appreciation for the Hall of Fame Award while expressing his lifelong love for agriculture. “Though I have spent much of my career doing things other than agriculture, agriculture has always been my truest love. I feel so fortunate to have been born and raised on a dairy

and to have had the opportunity to remain in an active status all my life working in the agricultural field,” Art Lafranchi said in a statement. “It is so rewarding to work either with animals or the land or both. I am especially thankful that I have had the chance to spend some time with young people, introducing them to life on the ranch, an opportunity they might otherwise have never have received. “ Alexander Valley grape grower Al Cadd, 86, a dedicated steward of the valley’s farmland and a vigilant protector of the Russian River, was honored with the Luther Burbank Conservation Award. The award recognizes Cadd’s caring ways in protecting water and farmland. “In my heart I have always felt that we must preserve and protect what we have so there will be something left for thos who follow us,” said Cadd. He was joined in accepting the Luther Burbank Conservation Award by his wife of 65 years Alyce Cadd. Rex and Kerry Williams and their children Wyatt and Olivia were honored as Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s “Farm Family of the Year.” The award recognizes contributions of family farmers like the Williams who represent the heart and soul of Sonoma County’s $3 billion annual farming industry. The Williams are first generation farmers who produce lamb, wool, hay and silage crops. They also are principal partners in Black Oaks Sheep Dairy, which produces milk for high end sheep cheese. The Williams tend more than 400 head of meat and dairy sheep, direct marketing their Williams Ranches lamb to customers from throughout the Bay Area. The award recipients were escorted to the outdoor stage in a wagon pulled by Belgian draft horses, offering a taste of the power and glory of the Old West. The wagon and horses were driven by Pat Prather of Bodega who generously donated his time and talented team for the night. He was ably assisted by his wife Nancy Breen and helpers Michael Van Stone and Pat Christensen. Many people swelled with pride – and had tears in the eyes -- when the spectacular Petaluma Riding and Driving Club’s senior drill team presented the colors while the national anthem was sung by Petaluma horsewoman and country singer Andrea Krout, who is the district representative for Sonoma County Supervisor David Rabbitt. The pageantry of the magnificent horses and beautifully costumed riders in the Petaluma Riding and Driving Club set against the natural beauty of Richard’s Grove was touching and inspiring. The skilled riders in the color guard were Caryn Hoeflein, Ali Arata, Rebecca Larcher and April Alianza. The Love of the Land event was planned and coordinated by Farm Bureau directors and staff and assisted by dozens of tremendous volunteers from the community and members of the 4-H and FFA along with agriculture students from Santa Rosa Junior College, Cal Poly, Cornell, Chico State and Fresno State universities. The Piner High School football team assisted in set-up and clean up for the event. In keeping with the event’s spirit of sustainability and conservation, Sonoma County Farm Bureau made a concerted effort to minimize the waste – wine bottles, food scrapes 148

Farm Bureau’s “Love of the Land” dinner was held July 19th in Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard. Vineyards, Di Vine Pizza, Dutcher Crossing Winery, Dutton-Goldfield Winery, Emeritus Vineyards, Evan’s Pesto, Field Stone Winery, Flour Creations, Hook & Ladder Winery, Jacobs Farm Del Cabo & Virginia’s Live-A-Little Dressing, James Family Cellars, Jimtown Store, Kokomo Winery, Kunde Family Estate, La Crema Winery, Laurel Glen Vineyards, Marcucci Farms & Winery, Martin Ray Winery, Mazzocco Winery, Matrix Winery, McEvoy Ranch, Montemaggiore, Pech Merle Winery, Pedroncelli Winery, Petaluma Creamery, Peterson Winery, Portalupi Wine Co., Robert Young Estate Winery, Rocker Oysterfeller’s Kitchen & Saloon, Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar, Route 128 Winery, Russian River Vineyards, Sbragia Family Vineyards, Sheldon Winery, Stryker Sonoma Winery, Sweet T’s Restaurant and Bar, Taft Street Winery, The Donum Estate, The Zinful Chef, Truett-Hurst Winery, Valley Ford Cheese Co., Valley of the Moon Winery, Vintage Valley Catering and Wilson Winery.

and other waste – at the Love of the Land celebration. Farm Bureau contracted with Mary Munat, best known as “Green Mary” to channel the event’s waste for reuse and recycling so it did not end up in the landfill. Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, said the Love of the Land celebration has become a mid-summer event on the calendar of many Wine Country residents. Like the Farm Bureau’s Great Sonoma County Crab and Wine Fest held in mid-winter, the Love of the Land brings people together to celebrate and support agriculture and farm youth while savoring fine wines and food. “Wineries and food purveyors offered our guests the true flavor of Sonoma County,” said McCorvey. The participating wineries and food vendors were Balletto Vineyards & Winery, Baciagalupi Vineyards, BBQ Smoke House and Bistro Catering, Corks Restaurant, D & L Carinalli Vineyards, Davis Family Vineyards, De La Montanya Winery & 149

September 2012

Arturo Ibleto, A Bella Life in Sonoma County The Pasta King Honored by Harvest Fair with “Lifetime Contribution to Sonoma County Agriculture” Award

rturo Ibleto, who drifted into Petaluma 63 years ago as a penniless immigrant from war-torn Italy, today is one of Sonoma County’s most-beloved and revered citizens, a bigger-than-life character whose outsized personality is matched only by the prodigious portions of pasta he serves. Although known as the Pasta King, Ibleto, who turns 86 on Oct. 2, is a man of many skills, boundless energy and keen intellect who epitomizes the self-made man. He has been or still is: a cow herder, Christmas tree farmer, butcher, pilot, mechanic, grape grower, vintner, opera singer, limousine driver, caterer and more. He does many of these jobs simultaneously, being everywhere and anywhere people converge, whether it’s the Sonoma County Fair, the Wednesday night market in downtown Santa Rosa or a charity fundraiser for a church or fi re department. In between stints preparing and dishing up pasta, he oversees his 50 acre vineyard, meat cutting business and the various other ventures that have made him prosperous. Ibleto’s deep roots in Sonoma County agriculture, his philanthropy and commitment to building community have earned him many awards over the years. Now, the Sonoma County Harvest Fair is honoring Ibleto with its “Lifetime Contribution to Sonoma County Agriculture” award, which not only recognizes his colorful history in Sonoma County but his remarkable life on the land and his legacy of service to agriculture and the larger community. “It is impossible to imagine Sonoma County without Art Ibleto whose wonderous personality and generosity have made our county a better and more interesting place to live. Art is a Sonoma County treasure,” said agriculture leader Saralee McClelland Kunde, a director of the Harvest Fair, president of the Sonoma County Fair and a longtime friend of the maestro of pasta. Ibleto and other agricultural award winners will be honored at the Harvest Fair Awards Night on Sept. 29 in the Grace Pavilion at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. The Award Night precedes the Harvest Fair, which is Oct. 5-7 at the fairgrounds. The other Harvest Fair agricultural award winners are chef John Ash, Santa Rosa, recipient of the Friend of Sonoma County Agriculture Award; Mark Sanchietti, Santa Rosa, recipient of the Outstanding Young Farmer Award; and Clay Mauritson, Healdsburg, Outstanding Young Person in Agribusiness. For his part, Ibleto likes to say that being able to give to others is part of what he considers a bella – beautiful – life. And what better way to bring people together than over food, preferably good Italian food, he says. “When you give, you receive back twofold,” Ibleto likes to say. He believes that food brings all people together, no matter the political party, age, gender or race. He is a Republican, but many of his best friends and most ardent supporters are Democrats who debate politics between forkfuls of Ibleto’s pesto. For the last half century, Ibleto has made healthy peasant food – like penne and polenta – part of Sonoma County’s culinary culture and a mainstay of the local fund-raiser. Ibleto

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probably gives away more food than he sells – and he sells tons of spaghetti (pesto or marinara or a combo plate?) at the Sonoma County Fair where his Spaghetti Palace, established 38 years ago, is an institutional landmark. Ibleto often steps up to offer free pasta, salad and garlic bread at relief benefits or celebratory gatherings, like the pasta dinner to welcome home the Petaluma team from the Little League World Series in Pennsylvania. Or the benefit dinner for the family who lost loved ones in a fiery crash on Highway 101 several years ago. Ibleto has greatly helped innumerable groups by allowing them to raise significant cash at pasta feeds for which he charges little, sometimes nothing. Ibleto knows what it is like to be hungry because of his experiences as a teenager in Italy during World War II. That experience is at the core of his being, driving a deep motivation to make sure people are well-fed and no one goes hungry. During World War II, he became a “Partisan” or freedom fighter against Mussolini’s troops and later Nazi forces. He recounts that one time he had to hide in a hole in the hills above his hometown of Sesta Godano for eight days without food or water. For years he was reluctant to even tell that story because it’s so painful and he feared that people would not believe him. But he said he is living proof that the human body can survive – just barely – without water for that long. “When I got out of the hole my legs were like spaghetti and I could barely walk,” said Ibleto. That was the transforming moment when he decided he would leave Italy. “It was a hell,” said Ibleto. “I really believed in freedom and realized I would have to find it in another country.” It took him three years following the end of the war to save enough money to leave Italy and come to America, settling in Sonoma County. Today, he is a Sonoma County icon known to thousands and celebrated for the goodwill he spreads. At an age when most people are comfortably retired, Ibleto is still going strong and has no plans to get out of the kitchen at his “Little Italy” outpost the corner of Stony Point Road and Lowell Avenue near Cotati. It’s here that Ibleto and his staff chop basil for pesto and stir giants pots of polenta or marina sauce. When asked if he would do anything differently in his life if he had the chance to start over again, he is quick to respond. “I wouldn’t change anything. It was not easy but I will be 86 and I am still working seven days a week and love what I do. What could be better than that?” said Ibleto, who is grateful for the opportunities that America provided him. “I think the United States is the best place in the world,” said Ibleto. “It’s a country where everyone has a chance. I only went to the fifth grade but America gave me the chance to work hard and get ahead.” Ibleto is the quintessential entrepreneur. He was 22 when he left Italy in 1949 to make a new life in America. He eventually arrived in Sonoma County and his first job was picking zucchini on the Ghirardelli Ranch in Petaluma. There he met the farmer’s daughter, Vicki Ghirardelli, who eventually became his wife. Last year, the couple celebrated their 60th wedding anniversary and their 50th year in business. Ibleto and his wife have two grown children, Annette and Mark, who both work in the family businesses, and two grandsons, Ryan and Benjamino. While working at the Ghirardelli Ranch, Ibleto saved enough to buy a 10 acre farm near Cotati where he opened a butcher shop, established a Christmas tree farm and grew potatoes. He said the potatoes were a one-year venture and a financial disaster. “There was no market for the potatoes and they all rotted,” said Ibleto. Over the years he acquired more land and today farms 50 acres of vineyards, pinot noir

and chardonnay, selling wine grapes to area wineries and making wine under his Bella Sonoma label. In 1974 Ibleto established the Spaghetti Palace at the Sonoma County Fair, a move that would make him an iconic figure – the Pasta King – in Sonoma County. The success of the Spaghetti Palace provided Ibleto the impetus to start a retail store on his Cotati property. The store offers the flavorful Italian food – sauces, lasagna, polenta, minestrone and ravioli – that has made Ibleto famous. He takes his pasta and polenta on the road, catering events throughout Northern California. He is a regular at the Wednesday Night Market and the Santa Rosa Farmers Market. His products have won multiple awards at the Harvest Fair over the years, including for his pesto sauce in 1999, his herbed oil and vinaigrette salad dressing in 2001 and the wine made from his first commercial grapes, which were harvested in 2002 and won a Gold Medal in 2004 under the Bella Sonoma label. The next year he won a double gold on his pinot noir. He has been a local and national leader in the Sons of Italy and the Italian Catholic Federation. He is a founder and board member emeritus of the North Bay Italian Cultural Foundation. He has received many honors for his community involvement and civic spirit. Sonoma County Farm Bureau honored him with the Spirit of Sonoma County Award. The cities of Santa Rosa and Rohnert Park have named him an honorary citizen. He has received the Western Fairs Association Blue Ribbon Award for his service to the fair industry and a commendation from the Volunteer Center of America. Ibleto is one of the few Republicans, maybe the only one, to ever be honored by the Sonoma County Democratic Central Committee for his commitment and contributions to his adopted country and the people of Sonoma County. The love and admiration that the community has for Ibleto was evident in 2006 when 1,000 people showed up for his 80th birthday party at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. He, of course, brought the pasta and polenta. “That was some party,” said Ibleto - all part of the bella life that the Pasta King has carved in his adopted America.

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October 2012

Jim Groverman, the Father of Petaluma’s Popular Roadside Attraction Petaluma Pumpkin Patch and Amazing Corn Maze opens for the Bewitching Season

Jim Groverman, wife Cindy and their daughter Kimberly in the Amazing Corn Maze along Highway 101 in Petaluma. Groverman’s pumpkin patch and corn maze are open through October. Photos by Steven Knudsen

s the proprietor of Sonoma County’s most popular roadside attraction, Jim Groverman, the farmer behind the Highway 101 corn maze, is the poster guy for “Agritourism” in the North Bay. In fact, Groverman was doing what he calls “Agro-Tainment” long before the word “agritourism” became part of the farming lexicon and a topic at trendy workshops exploring ways to survive in the farming game. Basically, agritourism refers to any income-generating activity conducted on a farm or ranch for the enjoyment and education

of visitors. In other words, visitors, mostly urban residents hungry for a taste of country, come as much for the farm experience as they do to buy pumpkins and gourds. For the last 20 years, Groverman’s Petaluma Pumpkin Patch and Amazing Corn Maze, along the west side of Highway 101 north of Petaluma, has attracted thousands of visitors each October. But the corn maze isn’t just an October phenomenon. The maze’s rise and fall is monitored by thousands of motorists every day throughout the year. Groverman’s Corn Maze, like Clo the Cow billboards, is a source of curious observation 152

and community pride. The scrutiny along Highway 101 gets intense in spring when the land is prepared and the seeds planted. Motorists check out the growth of the corn stalks as they sprout from the adobe soil, grow through the summer and by fall reach more than 10 feet tall. In November, the maze disappears. The cornstalks are cut and chopped for silage to feed dairy cows. The cycle is complete. Groverman and his wife Cindy, who along with daughter Kimberly, offer the North Bay’s increasingly urban and suburban population a chance to soak up the autumnal glory by getting lost in the four-acre corn maze, picking the perfect pumpkin, climbing over hay bales or rummaging through bins of grotesquely-shaped gourds. The farm animal displays, hay stacks and home-baked goods sold by fresh-faced 4-H club members complete the entertainment picture, making Groverman’s farm a kind of Barnyard Disneyland each October. “What we are doing is agritourism and that’s what makes this operation work. It’s letting people have fun,” said Groverman, 49, as lean and lanky as the corn stocks he grows. “A lot of town people are looking for something to do on weekends, a place to take their kids so they can run around in the country. We are offering them that opportunity.” The corn maze also has been used by corporations for employee team-building maneuvers. Brides, smitten with pumpkins and Halloween, have rented the Pumpkin Patch for October weddings. Groverman, a man of few words, is a reluctant showman. If he had his druthers, he would just be on his tractor farming, leaving the entertainment aspect to folks in Hollywood. But he knows in an area like Sonoma County and the San Francisco Bay Area he just can’t grow corn and pumpkins and make a living. He has to offer an agricultural experience to bring the crowds that will pay $6 each to literally get lost in his corn maze. The corn maze is Groverman’s evolving masterpiece, a four acre piece of living art created from the planting of more than 150,000 corn seeds. Every year he designs a maze that is challenging but not impossible or defeating. “It’s a true maze. There is only one way in and one way out,” said Groverman. “There is no set pattern. I just wing it. That’s what keeps it interesting and challenging. People keep coming back because it’s different every year.” The maze’s basic concept is four spokes with six trails each. Even as the maze’s mastermind, Groverman admits he gets lost occasionally amid the towering cornstalks. “I have even gotten confused,” said Groverman. He is proud of the roadside attraction he has built over the last 20 years and the pleasure it brings to families. But deep down he admits he is a farmer a heart. “I like growing the best. That’s the most rewarding part of what I do in this business,” said Groverman, a fourth generation Sonoma County farmer. As a relative of the Peterson farming clan, Groverman grew up watching busloads of kids arrive on the family ranch on Peterson Road in Sebastopol to pick pumpkins. Perhaps that sparked his interest in farming but it’s more likely that the urge to plant, grow and harvest is part of the DNA passed down by his agricultural ancestors. Like his pumpkins and corn, Groverman is a homegrown Sonoma County product. He is the second of four children of Dr. Fred Groverman, a veterinarian and internationallyrecognized Shropshire sheep breeder, and the late Pat Groverman, who for years was a fixture at her son’s pumpkin patch and corn maze. Groverman grew up on his family’s 52 acre sheep ranch in Petaluma where chores were part of the daily routine. He began tending livestock and planting crops as kid. He raised pheasants and parakeets, planted pumpkins and shallots and at 9 years old was milking his own cow and making homemade ice cream from the rich cream. He was a member of

the 4-H and FFA, showing sheep, hogs and dairy cattle at the fairs. He graduated from Petaluma High School in 1981 and then studied at Santa Rosa Junior College before transferring to Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo where he earned a degree in dairy science. When he returned to Sonoma County, he worked at various jobs on area ranches while getting his farming business going. Today, in addition to the Petaluma Pumpkin Patch and Amazing Corn Maze, he farms 15 acres of pumpkins on his father’s ranch in Petaluma and grows hay and silage crops on 110 acres of leased land. When not farming he is atop his horse doing team roping or hunting, his two passions. Groverman grows a variety of pumpkins. Many are sold at the Pumpkin Patch but the rest are sold throughout the Bay Area and shipped out of state to places like Wyoming where the growing season is too short to produce pumpkins. Groverman said the biggest threat to his bottom-line is rainy weather. Heavy rains during October weekends reduce the crowds and his revenue. But as a farmer he knows he is at the mercy of Mother Nature. He said his customers aren’t as forgiving when their outing to the Pumpkin Patch is dashed by a rain storm on an October weekend. “People get more upset than I do when it rains. The weather is out of my control. Someone bigger than me is calling the shots,” said Groverman.

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November 2012

Sonoma Compost: Dishing Dirt to Farms and Gardens Petaluma facility transforms yard debris into rich compost and mulches

Will Bakx nestles into a mountain of compost at Petalumaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sonoma Compost where yard debris is turned into rich soil additives for farm and garden. Photos by Steven Knudsen 154

oil scientist Will Bakx is like a five star chef as he oversees the massive piles of vegetative stew scientifically turned into black gold at Sonoma Compost where green waste from urban yards is transformed into valuable soil products for farms and gardens. Bakx is co-owner, resident scientist and chief compost maker at Sonoma Compost where yard clippings, tree branches and vegetative debris from homes and business throughout the county are transformed into the rich soil additives that are feeding the growing number of organic and sustainably farmed vineyards, orchards and vegetable farms that are part of Sonoma County’s annual $3 billion farming industry. It’s a winning combination and, perhaps, the ultimate in recycling and reuse. Bakx loves creating the rich soil additives and good-naturedly accepts the “God of Compost” title bestowed by admirers who did in the dirt. “Compost is my life,” said Bakx, 58, who was born and reared in The Netherlands where soil is sacred. He came to the U.S. as a young man and earned a degree in environmental studies at Sonoma State University and then completed a masters’ degree in soil science at U.C. Berkeley. “For me, it’s a dream come to true to create this valuable compost that is so important in replenishing the soil and producing food,” said Bakx. Over the last 25 years, he has been both advocate and educator for organic farming and building healthy soils. “In the early days I had to educate people about how compost was made while providing a greater understanding of the beneficial effects that compost has on soil,” said Bakx who lives with his wife Claire Victor in Sebastopol where he uses his own compost creations to grow organic fruits and vegetables for the family table. The Bakxs have a son, Xander Bakx, 18, a student at the University of Oklahoma in Norman. Compost, after all, is the lifeblood of organic farming. Sonoma County’s organic farming industry has grown right along with Sonoma Compost, which was established in 1993 on 22 acres at the Sonoma County Landfill off Meacham Road in Petaluma. Over the years, Bakx has created new compost mixtures to meet the differing soil needs, whether it’s Petaluma’s adobe soil or the sandy soil in West Sonoma County. Bakx’s newest creation is Terra Lite, a low-nitrogen compost that improves drainage in heavy clay soils. Bakx and Alan Siegel are the owners of Sonoma Compost, which has 25 employees and generates more than $700,000 in annual sales. Bakx makes the compost and Siegel handles the financial aspects of the business. Sonoma Compost, a business member of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, operates the Organic Recycling Program on behalf of the Sonoma County Waste Management Agency. The goal of this private-public partnership is to keep yard trimmings and vegetative food discards out of the landfill by carefully making it into premium quality organic compost and mulches to enhance agriculture. It’s a winning combination. Since 1993, Sonoma County has successfully diverted nearly 1.5 million tons of yard trimmings and wood waste from landfills. This represents 18 percent of the total waste generated in the county during that time period. The diversion has extended the life of the local landfill while reducing the carbon foot print of trucking bulky waste to out-ofcounty landfills. Each year, garbage haulers and landscapers deliver more than 100,000 tons of raw materials to the site. That material is turned into 80,000 cubic yards of top quality compost that goes to farmers like brothers Steve and Joe Dutton of Sebastopol who annually purchase 2,000 cubic yards of compost for their organic apple orchards. The compost goes hand-in-hand with the Dutton’s organic apple farming program that has eliminated chemical fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides. “The compost program at Sonoma Compost is the most significant closed-loop recycling

program in the county,” said Pam Davis, the company’s general manager. “Materials generated in Sonoma County are processed at our facility and then sold back to farmers, gardeners and landscapers right here in Sonoma County.” It’s four months from the time that grass cuttings, kitchen scraps and tree branches arrive at Bakx’s outdoor kitchen until they are turned into a marketable compost ready for delivery to vineyards in Geyserville, a truck garden in Santa Rosa or a landscaper in Rohnert Park. During that four months, the organic waste from urban yards is sorted, shredded, moistened, piled, tossed, aerated, test and sniffed. Everything but tasted in the quest to create the richest, blackest humus. The final product is basically free of weed seeds, pathogens and pesticide residues – all destroyed during the carefully monitored composting process when temperatures reach more than 140 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 days and longer. Each load of material delivered to Sonoma Compost is hand-sorted to remove contaminants, such as plastic garden pots, plastic bags or other non-green debris tossed in with yard and garden waste. Bakx said it’s costly and time consuming for workers to pick out the contaminants but an on-going education campaign called “Keep Your Green Clean” is helping to reduce the non-vegetative junk in the green material. The growth at Sonoma Compost has been steady and consistent over the last 20 years. Farms and gardens are absorbing all of the materials generated at Sonoma Compost. Even during the Great Recession, sales of compost continued strong despite the severe decline in new landscaping as housing starts hit the lowest levels in years. Bakx said compost sales continued during the economic downturn because urban residents, concerned about conserving water and interested in producing some of their own food, were ripping out their lawns to plant victory gardens. They needed compost to make their gardens grow. “The rise of victory gardens really increased our retail sales of compost,” said Bakx. Bakx said in addition to reducing the waste going into the landfill, Sonoma Compost is doing its part to address one of the world’s biggest environmental disasters: topsoil depletion. Bakx said the 80,000 cubic yards of compost spread over Sonoma County each year are making a huge difference in replenishing the valuable top soils that feed us.

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December 2012

Oak Hill Farm Crafts Wreaths that are Uniquely Sonoma County Gathered and Grown Materials from 700-acre Ranch Wound into Wreaths of Distinction

he old Red Barn at Oak Hill Farm in Glen Ellen is beginning to look a lot like Christmas as busy workers twist and tie elegant wreaths for the holidays. It’s a familiar scene at other Sonoma County barn stores that offer goodies gleaned from nature or grown on the farm. Oak Hill Farm’s all-natural wreaths are made from materials gathered and grown at the 700-acre ranch nestled at the base of the Mayacamas Mountains. The wreath making takes on a colorful life of its own following the non-stop bustle of harvest. Oak Hill Farm, owned and managed by Ann Teller, grows 300 different varieties of vegetables, flowers, herbs and greenery on 25 acres of organically farmed land. Now some of the fields at the farm have been planted to winter crops, other fields lie fallow. But there’s renewed activity as Christmas approaches and the farm moves into holiday mode. “It’s wreath making time,” declares Jesus “Chuy” Soto, the flower grower at Oak Hill Farm, proclaiming the start of the season. Soto, who heads up the wreath making crew at Oak Hill’s Red Barn, is driving a tractor pulling a wagon overflowing with manzanita branches, greens and boughs gleaned in the woodlands on the ranch. Those materials, along with farm-grown greenery like magnolia and eucalyptus, will be wound together with herbs, red peppers, pomegranates and other fruits to create the show-stopping wreaths that often hang on the brass doors of the swankest San Francisco hotels. “Everything that goes into our wreaths is grown on the property, from the moss to the magnolia and the saffron to the red peppers,” said Krysia Zaroda, office manager and floral design coordinator. She said the wreaths utilize left over materials from harvest, perennial greenery from the growing fields and woodlands and as well gathered materials like the tumbleweed-like mustard scavenged from roadsides and farm paths. And who doesn’t love a wreath hanging on a door or window, whether the creaky front door of old farm house or the glistening window of a Wine Country spa. The wreath has long been a symbol of protection, a non-ending ring proclaiming that life will prevail over the dark and dangerous forces of winter. Romans and Norsemen and later Christians have been drawn to wreath making, gathering the natural materials within their reach. Romans worked with Laurel, Europeans used evergreen boughs from the forests. At Oak Hill Farm, workers use anything and everything that grows on the property, resulting in unique wreaths with a distinct Sonoma Valley appellation. There’s The Class Wreath, a perennial best-seller in the Red Barn, with glossy magnolia leaves, dried hydrangeas, pepper berries, seeded eucalyptus and shiny red pomegranates. Then there’s the herb wreath made with a merry mix f of saffron flowers, chili peppers and oregano. The trip to buy these hand-crafted wreaths is as uniquely rewarding as the wreath itself. The 100-year old Red Barn at Oak Hill Farm is one those quintessential Sonoma County places that, particularly, during the Yuletide season, is a place to escape the madding crowds at shopping malls and big box stores. While most Sonoma County farms have closed for the winter, Oak Hill’s Red Barn is among the few farms that still welcome

visitors the during weeks following Thanksgiving until Christmas Eve. The Red Barn farm store also offers fall and winter produce, like squash, apples and quince, as well as the holiday wreaths, kitchen bouquets and products like honey, handmade crafts and local art. Oak Hill Farm was founded more than 50 years ago by Otto Teller, a farmer and conservationist dedicated to farming in balance with nature. Teller raised sheep for some years but, upon the recommendation of a florist friend, he planted some perennial greens for the floral industry. In the mid-1960’s Teller expanded the farm by purchasing a neighbor’s dairy farm, the Johnson Ranch, which included the Red Barn Store. The farm was expanded to grow vegetables, fruits and herbs as well as the floral greenery. Today, Oak Hill Farm, a member of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, employs 15 people in its farm fields and retail store. While Soto manages the flower growing, David Cooper is the farmer, overseeing the wide range of produce grown at the farm. After completing an organic farming internship program at the University of California, Santa Cruz in 2007, Cooper came to Oak Hill Farm and apprenticed for three years under former produce manager, Paul Wirtz. When Wirtz left Oak Hill two years ago to run his own organic farm, Cooper became the head farmer. Following Otto Teller’s death, his widow Ann, herself an agricultural visionary and conservation, took over management of the farm. The Tellers were founding members of the Sonoma Land Trust, a non-governmental, non-profit organization funded primarily by membership contributions. Since 1976, Sonoma Land Trust has protected more than 25,000 acres of land in and around Sonoma County. In 1984 the Tellers donated a conservation easement covering the entire property, ensuring that their beloved Oak Hill Farm would never be developed and forever preserved. Oak Hill Farm was one of the founding properties protected by the Sonoma Land Trust. Under Ann Teller’s ownership, Oak Hill Farm has thrived and flourished. She began growing vegetables in the early 1980’s, primarily for family and friends. Seeing the beautiful vegetables that could be produced, Ann Teller decided to start a vegetable growing business that would augment the flower operation and more importantly provide additional work for employees through the summer months. At first, customers were invited to leave money in a cash box for the vegetables, which were displayed on a table in the Red Barn. As word spread about the great vegetables being grown at Oak Hill Farm, a cashier was added to serve the increasing number of customers coming to the Red Barn, which had grown into a farm stand. Today, Oak Hill is a Sonoma Valley landmark that captures the spirit and essence of sustainable family farming in Sonoma County.

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January 2013

Frizelle Enos Still Going â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and Growing - Strong at 75 Sebastopol feed store has become West Sonoma Countyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s country emporium

Tony and Stacey Renati are the familiar faces amid the pet and livestock merchandise at Frizelle Enos Feeds in Sebastopol. The husband-wife team has been at the store for 14 years. Photo by Steven Knudsen 158

rizelle Enos Feeds, the oldest continuously operated business in Sebastopol, has evolved with the small town it has called home since 1938, becoming a favorite meeting place for the interesting mix of people who live in western Sonoma County. Over the last 75 years, Frizelle Enos, located at 265 Petaluma Avenue near the old railroad tracks that once ran the train through town, has continually reinvented itself to reflect the community it serves. The business has been transformed from a feed mill making and selling just livestock and chicken feed to a country emporium offering new age pet food, organic chicken scratch for backyard egg farmers, wood stoves, unique gifts and country clothing like Carhartt jackets and Wrangler jeans. Like the post office, everyone in the community eventually finds their way to Frizelle Enos for one thing or another. Liberals and conservatives, urban and rural, new wave and old-timers, plus 4-H and FFA members, come together over pet food and alfalfa at Frizelle Enos, which is open seven days a week to meet the needs of its customers. Co-owner Glenn Bach said Frizelle Enos prides itself on offering full service and its institutional knowledge along with the cat food and hog mash. Frizelle Enos employees are country people who grew up on farms and ranches or have pets and farm animals themselves, sharing their know-how on everything from feeding horses and goats to the best remedy for a dog suffering from seasonal allergies. “If our customers have questions we give them answers or we get the answers for them. That’s part of what we offer as a small, hometown store,” said Bach, the general manager of the Frizelle Enos in Sebastopol. In addition, the store holds evening seminars on topics ranging from backyard poultry to sheep and goat feeding for its customers who are getting started with small farm projects. The store holds pet vaccination clinics every two weeks and works with the Humane Society of Sonoma County in cat adoption. The community chalk board along the loading dock at Frizelle Enos tells the story of the rural community the store serves. The “For Sale” listings on the chalk board include pipe panels for horse corrals, duck eggs ($6 a dozen), Bantam roosters, a nanny goat, pony and much more. The community bulletin board lists events happening in and around Sebastopol. Each month the boards are wiped clean, allowing a new slate of postings for that free llama or Grange Pancake breakfast. Bach, who ran the feed mill for Petaluma Poultry for more than 20 years, and two partners, Don Benson, owner of Rivertown Feeds in Petaluma, and Darrel Freitas, a former co-owner of Petaluma Poultry, bought Frizelle Enos in 2010 from Tenny and Linda Tucker. The Tuckers had owned Frizelle Enos since 1998 when they purchased the business from Jack Kuhwarth, who had owned it since 1984. Bach, Freitas and Benson have established a second Frizelle Enos store in Penngrove. Freitas manages the Penngrove Store. Between the two stores there are 27 employees. It’s a family operation that includes Bach’s son, Jason Bach, and Benson’s son, Keith Benson, who both work at the Frizelle Enos in Penngrove. Frizelle Enos is deeply involved in the community. It is a member and generous supporter of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, donating to Farm Bureau’s auction at the Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest. It’s a buyer of market animals at the Sonoma County Fair. At this year’s fair, Frizelle Enos bought the supreme champion pen of meat chickens for a record $1,700. In December, Frizelle Enos hosted a mixer for the Sebastopol Chamber of Commerce. Bach said Frizelle Enos is a big supporter of the Sebastopol Community Center because it’s a way to give back to a large and varied part of the community, the very people who patronize the store. Additionally, Frizelle Enos works with 4-H and FFA members who are raising livestock and poultry for the Sonoma County Fair and other summer fairs. Frizelle Enos is the last names of the two proprietors who owned the store from 1947

until 1966, establishing the business as a mainstay in Sebastopol. The name has survived a number of owners, who kept the unusual name because of its positive image in the small community. Bach said he and his partners didn’t even consider changing the name and, in fact, do their best to stay behind the scenes, putting the focus on the longtime employees who are the face of the store. Those longtime employees include store supervisor Tony Renati and his wife Stacey Renati, who have both been at Frizelle Enos for 14 years. Stacey Renati, who oversees the gift department, is the daughter of former Frizelle Enos owners, Tenny and Linda Tucker. Sales clerk Julie Seth has been ringing up sales of rabbit pellets, flea powder and other merchandise for 18 years, a familiar and continuing presence in the store. Others working the sales counter include Misty Carstarphen, a dog trainer always willing to share her expertise on all things canine, Debbi Logan and Valerie Clark. Kevin Sharp has been a truck driver at Frizelle Enos since 2005. Sharon Lewis, a horse owner, shares her equine expertise with customers at Frizelle Enos in Penngrove. Dianne Steele, who raises cattle, is Frizelle Enos’ buyer for the store’s lines of pet foods, veterinary supplies and other pet-related merchandise. Steele and Tony Renati oversee the day-to-day operations as well as inventories and the work force. Frizelle Enos keeps a constant pulse on the community, following trends so that the store’s merchandise is current and relevant – like having feed and supplies for the increasing number of backyard farmers keeping laying hens for fresh eggs. In recent years, said Renati, the value of the inventory at Frizelle Enos in Sebastopol has increased from $300,000 to more than $600,000, primarily with increased supplies of high-end pet foods, gift items, work clothes and Western wear. Bach said he’s pleased when customers tell him that they did not know Frizelle Enos had changed hands, now more than two years ago. His job, he said, is to keep a good thing going while enhancing the merchandise, service and expertise that customers have come to expect at the store. Bach said while Frizelle Enos stills serves old ranching families, the store also is the go-to place for hobby farmers and people with small parcels of land interested in growing more of their own food. “We carry organic feeds for their livestock and poultry,” said Bach. He grew up in Farmington, Missouri where he worked on farms and in feed stores, learning the feed and grain business while acquiring a farmer’s work ethic. He is past president of the California Grain and Feed Association and remains an active member of the organization. Bach said the challenge for the feed business and its customers is the rising costs of hay and grain. Prices have skyrocketed because of weather calamities like the Midwest drought. Shortages, coupled with increasing global demand, are pushing feed and grain prices higher and higher. Like many of his customers, Bach, a resident of Petaluma, lives on rural property with his son and daughter-in-law, Jason and Laura Bach, and their children, Addison, 4, and Jackson, 3. The three generations work together to care for the farm animals. Bach gets up at 5 a.m. each day to do his share of the feeding before heading to work at Frizelle Enos. “My family has cows, hogs, chickens and a couple of horses,” said Bach, living the rural lifestyle that defines the culture at Frizelle Enos.

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February 2013

Neve Bros., a Floral Legacy in Petaluma

Fourth-generation flower grower Chris Neve, left, and his brother Nick Neve of Neve Bros. in Petaluma. Neve Bros. produces top-quality roses and other flowers for North Bay markets. Photos by Steven Knudsen 160

hen Petaluma’s Nick Neve was in second grade he was asked the usual question about what he wanted to be when he grew up. That was easy, he said. He wanted to be a flower grower like his father, grandfather and uncles. He could have said like his great grandfather too, but being only 7 he didn’t know the complete history of the family flower business. Today, Neve, 29, a fourth generation flower grower, and his brother, Chris, 26, along with their father Lou Neve, run the family’s Neve Bros. flower business in Petaluma, producing roses and 20 other flower varieties on two ranches spread over 120 acres. It’s not only a thriving agricultural business but a family legacy and way-of-life that have made the Neve name a familiar and integral part of the floral trade in the San Francisco Bay Area. “Growing flowers for the Bay Area market is something I always wanted to do and want to continue to do. It’s part of who I am,” said Nick, who oversees the growing operations in the green houses on Bodega Avenue where Neve flowers have flourished for nearly a half century. It’s a sentiment shared by his brother Chris, who spends a lot of his time at a desk filling orders for roses and other flowers that will decorate swank San Francisco hotels or high-society weddings in Wine Country. The Neves are always attuned to the calendar and the upcoming holiday, whatever it may be, because holidays bolster flower sales, some more than others. Mother’s Day is the biggest market for fresh flowers, followed by Valentine’s Day. Easter is big too. For the last month, the Neve family has been gearing production for the Valentine’s Day’s rush, when sweethearts everywhere express their true love with flowers, primarily, red roses. The frenzied, near fanatical, demand for one kind and color of flower poses a big problem for growers like the Neves. There are only so many red roses that can be produced from the Neve greenhouses for that single day, especially considering that red roses are not the main attraction during the other 11 months of the year. But red roses reign supreme on Valentine’s Day, making the holiday more headache than hearts and flowers for Chris and Nick Neve and their dedicated crew. They do a lot of scrambling to fill orders, knowing there will never be enough red roses to go around on Valentine’s Day. Some sweethearts will have to settle for lavender or pink roses or maybe some other kind of flower. “We take care of our loyal customers but the demand for red roses on Valentine’s Day is way more than we can produce,” said Nick, who keeps a couple of red roses back for the loves of his life, wife, Kerri, and daughter, Jenna, one year old. The Neves say Mother’s Day is a huge market for fresh flowers of all kinds and colors. While not everyone has a sweetheart on Valentine’s Day, everyone of a certain age has a mother or a mother figure in their life. Once you add grandmothers, a favorite auntie and other maternal role models the market for flowers explodes in mid-May. For a half century, the Neve name has been synonymous for quality roses, big longstemmed beauties grown hydroponically in green houses on the family’s 30 acre farm on Bodega Avenue outside of Petaluma. The Neve brothers’ grandfather, Giovanni Neve, established the Petaluma rose growing operation in 1967 after relocating the family rose business from Colma where it started in the early 1900’s. The Neve’s longevity is a rarity for a family business, especially one as competitively cutthroat as flower growing. Studies show that only 30 percent of family businesses survive their founders and make it to the second generation. The statistics grow grimmer as family businesses pass into succeeding generations. Only 12 percent of family businesses make to the third generation and three percent to the fourth generation and beyond, putting the Neve family in a rare category of survivors. They will tell you their survival isn’t through luck but the willingness to change and adapt to the market.

The Neve family has continually reinvented itself over the years so it can stay in business and pass to the next generation. When cheap flowers imported from South America and Mexico were driving most of California flower growers out of business, Lou Neve adapted by focusing first and foremost on quality and service, which is difficult for faraway foreign producers to provide. He realized he couldn’t just do what his father and grandfather did, the business had to change with the times. That meant expanding the line of flowers grown and marketed and producing high-end flowers that passed the beauty test for finicky brides and persnickety hotel managers. Instead of selling just roses at one wholesale market, the Neves now sell a variety of flowers to more than 250 customers, mostly high end floral shops that want their flowers fresh and locally farm grown. While the Brothers Neve run the day-to-day operations at the Bodega Avenue property, patriarch Lou Neve oversees flower growing on the family’s 90 acre ranch on Roblar Road in the Two Rock area west of Petaluma. The ranch, a former organic vegetable farm, provides the land for the Neve family to grow a range of flowers including hydrangeas, sunflowers and dahlias. “We closely watch trends in the flower business and make the changes necessary to stay ahead of the curve,” said Chris Neve. Nick said like fashion, the flower business is always changing and it’s his job to keep up with those trends. Or go out of business. He reads bridal magazines and Martha Stewart Living to see what flowers – and colors - young brides will be ordering for their special day. The latest trend, started by home décor maven Martha Stewart, is for old-fashioned garden roses, like the full and fluffy foribunda roses growing in grandma’s yard. The Neves are removing some of their fancy hybrid tea roses to make room for the oldfashioned roses that brides and florists are demanding. Nick said you can’t be sentimental about a rose that you personally love but has fallen out of favor in the market. That’s the fastest way to financial ruin. “We can’t grow what we like, we have to produce what the market wants. You can’t be afraid to say that rose no longer works and move on,” said Nick. “For example, there is a beautiful dark red rose I love called Black Magic. It once did well but now doesn’t move in the market. It’s time for it to go. Adios. That’s business.”

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March 2013

Great Sonoma Crab & Wine Fest Has Become Region’s Biggest and Best – Benefit Crab Feed This year’s event raises more than $50,000 for agriculture education

uests say Farm Bureau’s Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest is so much more than a seasonal crab feed. It’s a mid-winter party where people from the farm and business communities come together to socialize while raising money to support agriculture education and, ultimately, Sonoma County’s farming future. This year’s event raised more than $50,000 for agricultural education and scholarships. “What I love about the Crab and Wine Fest is seeing all the 4-H and FFA members bustling bowls of pasta and crab, pitching in to help raise money for the agriculture education programs that are so essential to preserving our agricultural heritage in Sonoma County,” said Saralee McClelland Kunde, who was among the record 1,350 guests attending the 24th annual Crab Fest held Feb. 2 in the Grace Pavilion at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. She also was among the generous bidders at the Crab Fest’s live auction, spending $2,750 for a lamb dinner prepared by rancher Bruce Campbell, who has been a friend of Saralee’s since their days in 4-H. Connections like this are what binds Sonoma County’s close-knit agricultural community and drives its strong support for the next generation of young farmers who will take over the land. The Crab Fest was a grand night for not only eating fresh crab and sipping fine Sonoma County wines but for renewing old friendships and making new friends. It was a chance for farmers to rub elbows with business and political leaders and for elected officials to connect with the people they represent. All five members of the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors were at the Crab Feed along with other state and federal legislators and many county officials including County Administrator Veronica Ferguson, County Recorder Assessor Bill Rousseau and Grant Davis, chief of the Sonoma County Water Agency. Guests enjoyed more than 4,500 pounds of Dungeness crab in addition to gallons of clam chowder, “Pasta King” pasta, salad and dessert, all polished off with fine wines from Sonoma County. There were more than 200 volunteers helping to stage the event and serve the guests. s. At the live auction, guests bid on special lots ranging from a buck hunt on the Cooley Ranch in northwest Sonoma County to the Pork and Pinot feast, donated by swine breeders Jube and Sally Begley of Santa Rosa and Sebastopol winegrowers Domenic and Lynda Carinalli. There were sports packages, a cave dinner at Kunde Family Estate Winery, a Western-style barbecue at the Dutton Ranch and many more items that reflected the Wine Country lifestyle. Auctioneer Rex Williams of Williams Ranch in Sebastopol used his quick wit and country humor to coax bids from the generous crowd, with overall prices higher for auction lots this year than in 2012. Auction items like a stainless steel grape gondola from the Guadagni Bros in Dry Creek Valley and the complete installation of an edible landscape garden, donated by Harmony Farm Supply in Sebastopol, clearly indicates that this is an event where both donors and guests are closely connected to the land and the county’s annual $3 billion agriculture industry.

Sebastopol rancher Gail Dutton, who is an owner of Dutton Ranches with sons Steve and Joe Dutton, was the winner of the trip raffle, which offered an option for fabulous vacations to Italy, Ireland or Fiji. Gail, a long-time Farm Bureau member and a supporter of agriculture and farm youth, said she is enjoying pondering which trip she will take. She has not yet decided on her destination. Nancy Cartan, a teacher at Procter Terrace School in Santa Rosa and co-owner of a vineyard with her husband Jim, won the drawing for the $6,500 diamond offered by ER Sawyer Jewelers in Santa Rosa. “I bought the ticket thinking one of our children could use it someday in a setting for a wedding ring and that offer is still out there,” said Nancy. “The diamond is “full of luck” and will have a fun story that goes along with it as a Cartan heirloom passed down through the generations.” Many of the people who come together to orchestrate the crab feed or donate wine, food and auction items are dedicated to preserving Sonoma County’s farmland and agricultural industry. The volunteers who help stage the event also believe a strong and viable agricultural industry is essential to maintaining what many consider the heart and soul of Sonoma County. The Crab and Wine Fest is a totally homegrown event orchestrated by the directors and staff of Sonoma County Farm Bureau with the assistance of an army of dedicated volunteers. Many of the groups benefiting from Farm Bureau’s agriculture education program pitch in to help set up tables, decorate and serve the meal. Joining the work crew were volunteers from the Santa Rosa Junior College Ag Ambassadors, FFA and 4-H. Members of the Piner High School football team used their muscle to tear-down tables and clean up. Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, said Farm Bureau is committed to providing agricultural education to youth, adults and community leaders so they can better understand the unique aspects of farming, no matter if it’s dairy cows, horses or vineyards. He said the proceeds from the crab fest are used to bring agriculture to those who would otherwise not benefit from a farm experience. One of Farm Bureau’s major educational efforts is Ag Days, which have been held for 32 years to bring a taste of farm life to city kids. Last year more than 5,000 school children came to the Sonoma County Fairgrounds for Ag Days, which includes livestock displays, a hay maze, horsemanship demonstrations and samples of Sonoma County farm products like apples, cheese and milk. This year’s Ag Days are March 22 and 27. Farm Bureau also uses the proceeds from the crab fest to support farm youth organizations like the SRJC Ag Ambassadors, FFA and 4-H and to fund agricultural scholarships. Last year, the Farm Bureau Foundation awarded more than $50,000 in scholarships to students studying agriculture at college. “We take great pride in preparing individuals for careers in agriculture through our scholarship programs,” said McCorvey. “Plans are already underway for next year’s event, which will be held the first Saturday night of February.” 162

Guests at the Great Sonoma Crab & Wine Fest stand for the National Anthem, which was led by 4-H, FFA and SRJC Ag Ambassadors. There were more than 1,500 attendees at the Crab Fest held on Feb. 2 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. Photo by Brenda Hawkes 163

April 2013

Ag Days Brings Grandpaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Farm to 3,500 School Kids Sonoma County Farm Bureau sponsors 33rd annual Ag Days at the Fairgrounds

Kassie Lindeblad, 8, a second grader at St. Rose Catholic School holds a Boer goat at Farm Bureauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ag Days. In the background is Karin Taylor, a parent in the Forestville 4-H Club, which provided animals and an educational exhibit for the event, held March 26-27 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. Photo by Steven Knudsen 164

sheep shearer Judd Redden as he used electric shears to fleece woolly sheep. They petted chickens and ran their fingers through pungent compost. “It’s important for all of us in agriculture to educate young people about farm life and what it takes to grow the food that we all eat as consumers,” said Bodega livestock rancher Walt Ryan, a director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau and chairman of Farm Bureau’s Agriculture Education Committee. Teachers said Ag Days gives students the foundation to begin the educational journey to understand where their food comes from and the purpose of the farmland they see from the car on Sunday drives. At Ag Days, they can actually touch the old brown cow that they know from their storybooks. They hear baby pigs squeal and smell what comes from the backend of a kid goat. Teachers say students who attend Ag Days are able to see and make connections, viewing the entire process of food production. For example, students can view calves, see cows, learn about how “mammals make milk”, learn about by-products and then taste milk, cheese and ice cream. In addition to the exhibits and demonstrations, the kids were able to taste the best of Sonoma County. Kids munched on apples from Andy’s Produce in Sebastopol, cheese from Spring Hill Jersey Cheese, Clover milk, apple juice from Manzana Apple Products in Sebastopol and ice cream from Straus Family Creamery. They also enjoyed “Cutie” mandarins and honey sticks, which connected kids to the Ag Days’ theme, “Bee Healthy…. Farm Happy.” Sonoma County’s nationally known Twin Chefs, 11-year-olds Audrey and Lilly Andrews of Sonoma were at Ag Days demonstrating some of their favorite dishes using honey, one of their favorite foods. It tied in with this year’s bee theme. Instead of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, the twins like to make honey and goat cheese sandwiches, topped with lemon zest and a mint leaf. They showed kids how to make this tasty and nutritious treat and a couple of their other favorite using honey. “We love to be at Ag Days meeting other kids who also want to learn about cooking and using food grown in Sonoma County,” said Audrey. Over the last 33 years, Ag Days has grown into a major event to represent the many facets of Sonoma County agriculture. Farm Bureau and the Sonoma County Fair sponsor Ag Days but many agriculture-related groups, businesses and individuals support the event. Pat Alexander of Kenwood again organized the horse demonstrations at Ag Days, using kids versed in horsemanship to show what kids can do with horses. In addition to the Ag Days exhibits and demonstrations, Farm Bureau also sponsors a number of contests aimed at making children think about the source of their food and fiber. This year the contests were based on the theme “Bee Healthy….Farm Happy.” Hundreds of school children entered the contests, which included categories for the best bookmark, poster, essay, scarecrow, mural, farm photograph, farm video and decorated grocery bag. The winners in the various contests were recognized at Farm Bureau’s Ag Days Awards Dinner on March 26. There were more than 750 guests at the Ag Days Dinner where parents, teachers, principals and agriculture leaders came together to recognize the accomplishments of the students who were winners in the Ag Days contests. Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, was the emcee for the awards program. Awards were presented by Sonoma County supervisors Susan Gorin and Shirlee Zane, Dr. Steven Herrington, superintendent of the Sonoma County Office of Education and Socorro Shiels, superintendent of Santa Rosa City Schools.

eyserville rancher Dick Dilworth swelled with pride as kids looked up – way up - in amazement at his giant draft horses, a matched pair of Belgian beauties named Jada and Megan, on display at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Ag Days. “That’s the biggest horse I’ve ever seen in my life,” marveled one small boy who was among the 3,500 school kids attending Ag Days, held on March 26 and 27 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. The annual spring event brings the farm – and ranchers like Dilworth – to the city to provide urban kids a taste of the farm life that is beyond the reach of most urban families today. It’s a chance for the kids to unplug for a low-tech experience like cuddling a baby goat or tickling the ears of a three-day old piglet. In addition to the farm animals, Ag Days offers exhibits on environmental and farm-related products as well as demonstrations ranging from cattle roping to butter making and sheep shearing to horse grooming. Ag Days comes together each spring because of dedicated ranchers like Dilworth who are willing to transport livestock to the fairgrounds so kids can see and touch farm animals. “I do it for the kids,” said Dilworth, “Seeing their eyes light up when they see these horses close up makes it all worthwhile for me. Where else are these kids going to see this?” That’s also the feeling of Santa Rosa dairy rancher Doug Beretta, who has been a fixture at Ag Days since it started 33 years ago. Beretta said most kids are generations removed from the farm. There is no Grandpa’s Farm to visit on weekends so kids need somewhere to go to soak up the sounds, smells and sights of farm life. “Ag Days brings the farm to them,” said Beretta, who brings Jersey and Holstein calves from his organic dairy for the kids to touch. He believes if farming is to survive in Sonoma County, the urban population has to have an understanding and appreciation for what farmers do. The best place to start is with the kids. Ag Days is sponsored by Farm Bureau and the Sonoma County Fair to educate the next generation of consumers about the source of their food and the value of a thriving farming industry to the county’s landscape and economy. Bobby Mickelson of Sonoma Mountain Herefords in Santa Rosa brought cows and calves to Ag Days, giving kids the chance to touch the Herefords they have only seen in picture books, movies or from the car. It’s a powerful experience. “It’s a great way for kids to see that there are real ranchers and real cows in Sonoma County,” said Michelson, who has been raising cattle since he was a boy, continuing a family tradition that has spanned generations in Sonoma County. “We want to show the kids how proud we are of our cattle and the great care they get,” said Michelson. Mickelson’s Hereford calf was a huge hit with Lucy Trione, 7, who was with her mother Amy at Ag Days. “I want to be a farmer when I grow up,” said Lucy, as she petted the little calf held by Michelson. “Please touch” was the order of the day at Ag Days. There were baby chicks and ducklings from Western Farm Center and baby goats from the Forestville 4-H Club. The Crawford family brought a litter of Duroc piglets, always the main attraction at Ag Days. “I just love seeing the kids’faces when they touch the soft hair on the little pigs or hear them squeal,” said Davis Crawford, 18, a senior at El Molino High School and a member of the Forestville FFA. The children were able to wander through a hay maze created by rancher Norm Yenni of Sonoma and stare down a shaggy Scottish Highland heifer from Petaluma’s Spring Hill Ranch & Vineyard, owned by Chris and Karen London. The students watched cunning sheep dogs herd ducks and marveled at the dexterity of 165

May 2013

Tish Ward, Conservation Crusader Glen Ellen Rancher is Recipient of Farm Bureau’s Luther Burbank Conservation Award

onoma County rancher and conservationist Tish Ward has an abiding respect for land and nature, believing that farming and environmental protection are not mutually exclusive. In fact, she does both with unwavering dedication at the Atwood Ranch in Glen Ellen where she has been the ranch manager and resident sage for nearly 30 years. “My philosophy is to walk softly on your land, realizing what assets you have besides your crops and taking good care of your land, neighbors and the environment at large. Of course, you do have to make a profit at what you do,” said Ward, a sixty-something, self-proclaimed mountain woman. Ward, fiercely independent and happily single all of her life, has her own 40-acre spread atop the Mayacamas Ridge, the mountains separating Sonoma and Napa counties. She’s surrounded by tall trees, deer, mountain lions and her faithful sidekick Coven, a whip-smart Corgi and Border Collie cross. She matches wits with a band of crafty ravens that consider her mountain perch their home as well. Ward isn’t just a ranch manger with an environmental conscience. She is an agricultural activist, encouraging others to adopt farming practices that are compatible with nature. She has served for decades as a director of the Southern Sonoma County Resource Conservation District and has worked with school kids to “Adopt a Watershed.” She is organizing other Sonoma Valley grape growers to plant “Bee Friendly” habitat beneficial to honey bees, which are in decline. In between all this, she is working with forestry experts and entomologists about the increasing number of dead and dying trees in the forest where she lives. Ward’s dedication to sustainable farming, clean water and environmental protection has earned her Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s 2013 Luther Burbank Conservation Award. The award recognizes Ward’s deep seated environmental ethic and exemplary stewardship at a time when those values are such an important part of the public pact in Sonoma County. Increasingly, agriculture leaders say for farming to survive and thrive for future generations the urban public must better understand what farmers like Ward are doing to care for their land. “Tish Ward epitomizes the values of land stewardship and environmental awareness that the Luther Burbank Conservation Award represents. She is proving that agriculture, clean water and healthy ecosystems can all thrive harmoniously on farms and ranches,” said Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. “Tish has a tremendous amount of energy, which she uses to bring unity and harmony between the urban and rural sectors of the Sonoma Valley.” Ward will be honored at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land celebration on Thursday, July 18 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard at 3575 Slusser Road in Windsor. Also being honored at Love of the Land are Saralee McClelland Kunde, a Windsor grape grower, philanthropist and respected agricultural leader, and the Lee and Carolyn Martinelli of Forestville who have been named Farm Bureau’s “Farm Family of the Year.” The Martinelli family, which includes three generations working together on family land in Sonoma County, produces wine grapes and apples and own and operate the Martinelli Family Winery.

The Love of the Land dinner and celebration is a public event, open to anyone who wants to celebrate the award winners while toasting the land and people that define and propel Sonoma County’s agricultural heritage. Ticket information is available by contacting the Farm Bureau office at 544-5575. Tickets can be purchased online at www.sonomafb.org. Tish Ward did not grow up in agriculture but said for as long as she can remember she yearned to be a farmer. She was a military brat – the daughter of an admiral – who lived all over the world while growing up. “I knew I wanted to be a farmer from the time I came out of the egg,” said Ward. “I dreamed of being on the land, working with my hands and tending to crops and livestock. It became my primary goal.” Magnificent obsession might be a better way to put it. Ward took a circuitous route to agriculture, getting into farming later in life. A born adventurer, she went off to Africa in the early ‘70s to study monkeys. While in Africa she hooked up with famed anthropologist Dr. Louis Leakey and worked with him on archaeological digs. Then, she embarked on a career as a public relations grunt for BART in San Francisco. She lived in urban Marin County where she abhorred the affluent, pretentious lifestyle. While clicking around in high heels and business suits in her former life as a PR whiz, she dreamed of driving a tractor and mending barbed wire fences on wide open range land. She fled Marin in 1981 when she bought her remote mountain retreat on the Mayacamas Ridge. Five years after moving to the property, she got a job as the manager of the Atwood Ranch in Glen Ellen, which is down the mountain from her hilltop home. The 70-acre Atwood Ranch, with cabernet sauvignon vineyards and quarter horses for cutting, is one of the many ranches that Ward oversees for Thomas Atwood, a wealthy Bay Area land investor with cattle and quarter horses ranches in Red Bluff, Corning, Elk Grove and Point Arena. “Cabernet, Cutters and Cattle” is how Ward describes Atwood Ranches. Atwood, who shares Ward’s conservation and environmental ethic, supports Ward’s approach to sustainable farming and “walking softly on the land,” implementing those practices on his properties throughout Northern California. Ward had little background in cabernet, cutters and cattle when she took the job at Atwood but rolled up her sleeves and went to work. One of her first tasks was to clean up the Glen Ellen Ranch, which was in a sad state. She immediately began work restoring the creek that runs through the ranch. Over the decades, it had become a dumping ground for engine motors, tires washing machines and other junk and debris, which had not business being in a creek. She hauled dozens of dumpster loads out of the creek and began planting willows and other native plants along the creek banks. She enlisted school kids to adopt a stream or creek that is part of the Sonoma Creek Watershed in the Sonoma Valley. Ward is a great believer in the healing power of streams, not only for fish and wildlife but for human beings. “Creeks and streams are a universal language,” said Ward. “Nearly everyone played in 166

Tish Ward, manager of the Atwood Ranch, and her sidekick, Coven, at the Glen Ellen ranch’s lake where waterfowl and wildlife abound. Ward, recipient of the 2013 Luther Burbank Conservation Award, will be honored at Love of the Land on July 18. Photo by Steven Knudsen creeks when they were kids, catching pollywogs or wading in water up to their knees.” Her pickup’s personal license plate “ONE POND” says it all. Ward believes that opening Sonoma County farms and ranches to students and other residents would help people better understand the good things that farmers are doing in producing crops and preserving nature on their land. She believes farmers have a great story to tell. She calls it ‘land-use marketing” and believes it’s just as important as marketing grapes or cattle, particularly, in a county like Sonoma were most voters have

no direct connection to agriculture. “If people are under the perception that farmers are doing terrible things on their land, where the hell is agriculture going to be 30 years down the road,” Ward asked. “It’s not going to be here,” she said, answering her own question.

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June 2013

Saralee, Sonoma County’s Fair Lady Longtime agricultural activist and philanthropist to be inducted into Farm Bureau Hall of Fame

ike Cher and Madonna, she is known by a singular name. Say Saralee in Sonoma County and everyone immediately knows it is Saralee McClelland Kunde. The 65-year-old agricultural activist also is known as the Unsinkable Saralee and the Godmother of Good Causes, especially if they relate to agriculture, farm youth and the Sonoma County Fair. She has been making a difference in Sonoma County since the days she wore her green and white 4-H uniform and showed Holstein dairy cows at local fairs, inspiring others to preserve and perpetuate the farms and ranches that define Sonoma County and its rich agricultural heritage Then, she moved from dairy cows to wine grapes, working overtime to elevate Sonoma County to the world stage of food and wine. In between, she advocated for fairs, 4-H and FFA while raising millions of dollars for causes dear to her big heart. She serves as a director of the Sonoma County Fair, Harvest Fair, 4-H Foundation, Russian River Valley Winegrowers and others. She was a founding director of Select Sonoma County and for years orchestrated the Chef’s Tasting, which focused world attention on the incredible food and wines being produced in Sonoma County. In 2000, a cover story in the San Francisco Chronicle proclaimed Saralee as Sonoma County’s counterpart to Robert Mondavi, America’s best known winemaker and “Mr. Napa Valley.” “Saralee Kunde personifies the rural, warm spirit of Sonoma County,” Janice Furhan wrote in the Chronicle cover story about Napa and Sonoma counties with the headline “Vintage Stereotypes.” Saralee’s remarkable legacy and lifetime of achievement have earned her a prominent place in Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame. The annual award recognizes agricultural leaders and pioneer ranchers who have been the guiding force in preserving, protecting and propelling Sonoma County’s $3 billion farming industry. Saralee joins other legendary leaders like Henry Trione, Angelo Sangiacomo, Gene Benedetti and Larry Bertolini in the Hall of Fame. Saralee’s husband Richard Kunde, a pivotal figure in shaping the Sonoma County wine industry, was inducted into the Sonoma County Farm Bureau Hall of Fame in 2008. Together Rich and Saralee have been a dynamic force in Sonoma County, channeling their money, influence and leadership to make Sonoma County the special place it is today. “I am honored to join so many of the men and women I so admire who are in the Sonoma County Farm Bureau Hall of Fame,” said Saralee. “It took a lot of people and dedicated leadership to get all of us – and Sonoma County – where we are today.” Saralee will be inducted into the Hall of Fame at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land celebration on July 18. The event will be held at Richard’s Grove, formerly Left: Saralee McClelland Kunde at her Catie’s Corner Vineyard in Windsor. Saralee will be inducted into the Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame on July 18. Photo by Matt Salvo

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owned by Rich and Saralee Kunde and now part of the holdings of Jackson Family Wines, based in Santa Rosa. Also being honored at Love of the Land are Tish Ward, manager of the Atwood Ranch in Glen Ellen, who is receiving the Luther Burbank Conservation Award, and the Lee & Carolyn Martinelli Family of Martinelli Winery in Windsor who are Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year. Love of the Land is open to anyone who wants to join in honoring Saralee, Tish Ward and the Martinelli Family while enjoying fine Sonoma County wine and food and the good company of those who work the land. The Farm Bureau Hall of Fame is the latest award for Saralee who has been honored and recognized by more than a dozen organizations ranging from the Santa Rosa Chamber of Commerce to the 4-H Foundation of Sonoma County. Throughout Sonoma County, Saralee is known for her unwavering optimism, can-do spirit and zest for life. She attributes her positive attitude to her dairy farming parents the late Robert and Lillian McClelland, who were hard working descendants of Irish immigrants. Saralee was particularly inspired by the abiding spirit of her mother Lillian Wilson McClelland, known as “Sweet Lil” to all who knew her. Lil believed all was possible, holding strong to the old adage that “if there is a will there is a way.” Saralee lives by that adage. Saralee is on everybody’s A list when there is something that needs to be done. She has been involved in most everything that has happened in agriculture over the last 30 years from founding the Russian River Valley Winegrowers to building the 4-H Center in Rohnert Park. “Saralee is an icon in Sonoma County agriculture, not because she aspired to that, but because she inspired so many others,” said Nick Frey, who met Saralee 14 years ago when he was interviewed for executive director of the Sonoma County Grape Growers Association. Frey has been working with her ever since. “Saralee was always there doing more than her fair share. It does not matter if it was youth pruning contest, Sonoma County Fair and Harvest Fair or Russian River Valley Winegrowers. She also was there for Sonoma County Grape Growers Association and the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission. She always gives and inspires others to give because she gets behind good causes,” said Frey. Sonoma County Fair manager Tawny Tesconi considers Saralee her mentor, respecting her wisdom and institutional knowledge of fairs. “Before the term ‘Agritourism’ became synonymous with Sonoma County, Saralee had the vision to build support for agriculture by providing the opportunity for an urbanite to milk a cow, touch wool or see how melons grow,” said Tesconi. “She is Sonoma County’s biggest supporter of agriculture and has unmatched passion for our youth and the local fairs.” For her part, Saralee said her family’s deep agricultural roots and the generations of dedicated ranchers she grew up with inspire her to keep pushing to bolster the financial viability of agriculture so it can survive for the generations to come. She said agriculture not only drives Sonoma County’s economy but defines its landscape and way-of-life. “Sonoma County is a delicious combination of natural beauty and agricultural abundance, a special wine and food region defined by the land and the people who farm it,” she says. “Farming is not only Sonoma County’s rich heritage but its identity.” Saralee’s philosophy is best described in the “Motto to Live By’ sign that hangs in her office at Saralee’s Vineyard and Richard’s Grove, the 265 acre vineyard estate that for the last 25 years has been a venue for agricultural fund-raisers and many memorable parties. The sign reads:

“Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body but rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, wine in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming, ‘WHOO HOO, what a ride!’.” Saralee has dutifully lived up to that motto, squeezing more into a day than most people accomplish in a week. Fortunately, for Sonoma County she enjoys making things happen, spending her time creating, advocating and inspiring to make things better. She does not do well at lounging around pools or endlessly shopping, unless it’s shopping for one of her signature floppy hats. “You have to enjoy every day, because you never know what tomorrow will bring,” says Saralee. She was saying that – and living it – long before she was diagnosed with ovarian cancer just as she was finishing up the grape harvest last October. Her seven month battle with cancer has made her even more determined to live and appreciate every day, particularly, as she moves into the next phase of her life with husband Richard, 70, and children Matt, 22, and Catie, 20. Last year Rich and Saralee sold their famed Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard on Slusser Road in Windsor to Jackson Family Wines. It was part of the Kundes effort to downsize their farming operations so they could slow down just a little bit, having more time for their agricultural causes. The Kundes will live on the property until December but the management of the vineyards and Richard’s Grove is now under Jackson Family Wines. The Kundes are building a home on another of their properties, a 40 acre vineyard called Catie’s Corner –named for daughter Catie – located a couple of miles north of Saralee’s Vineyard. Catie’s Corner is in rural Windsor and, of course, in the Russian River Valley. “We wouldn’t leave the Russian River Valley,” said Saralee. Wine grapes from Saralee’s Vineyard were sold to 60 different wineries in Sonoma and Napa counties and even to places like the Biltmore Estate in North Carolina. The Kundes still own 80 acres of vineyards, which include Catie’s Corner and two other 20 acre vineyards. They have eight different varietals including mainstays like chardonnay and pinor noir and more obscure varitals such as tannat and malvasia bianca. “We are downsizing, going from more than 300 acres down to 80 acres. Instead of selling our grapes to 60 wineries we will be selling to 23 wineries,” said Saralee. Saralee also is working with her brother dairy rancher George McClelland and niece Jana McClelland of the McClelland Dairy in Two Rock to build a small, dairy processing facility to produce artisanal butter and cheese. The creamery will be home to a dairy museum showcasing the thousands of cow figurines, milk bottles and dairy industry paraphernalia that Saralee has collected for the last half century. Saralee said she has been fortunate because her work was never like a job. She spent years as an employee of the Sonoma-Marin Fair in Petaluma and then the Sonoma County Fair and Harvest Fair. The last 25 years have been developing vineyards and growing and marketing grapes while forging relationships with the winemakers who buy her grapes. “I have been lucky because I loved everything I have ever done. It never seemed like a job because I was having so much fun doing it,” said Saralee.

“I have been lucky because I loved everything I have ever done. It never seemed like a job because I was having so much fun doing it.” ~ Saralee McClelland Kunde 169

July 2013

Martinelli Family, Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year Martinelli family, now in the fifth generation, has farmed in Sonoma County for more than 125 years

Carolyn and Lee Martinelli with children, left to right, Lee Jr., Regina and George Martinelli. Daughter Julianna Martinelli, also a partner in the family business, is not in the photograph. The Martinellis will be honored as Farm Family of the Year at The Love of the Land celebration on July 18 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard. Photo by Steven Knudsen

he Martinelli Family’s farming history spans more than a century in Sonoma County and mirrors the county’s colorful panorama of agricultural history. The Martinelli Family’s longevity on the land and their legacy of stewardship and leadership has earned them Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year Award. The family will be honored at Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land celebration on July 18 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard in Windsor. The award recognizes the Martinelli Family’s hard work and perseverance in changing

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with the times to not only keep land that has been in the family for generations but to expand and prosper. The Martinelli Family epitomizes the adaptability of the modern American farmer and the daily challenges farmers face in dealing with weather and markets. “The Martinellis are symbolic of a farm family. They represent many generations deeply rooted in Sonoma County agriculture and their community,” said Lex McCorvey, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. “The Martinellis have built their

successful family and farming business by being great stewards of the land while harvesting its bounty. Additionally, they have been trailblazers for many other aspiring farmers.” McCorvey said he has known and respected Lee Martinelli Sr. for more than 40 years. “I have long believed that recognition of the Martinellis as the Farm Family of the Year is both overdue and most deserved,” he said. Family patriarch Lee Martinelli Sr., who is 74, said he is grateful for the honor, which, he said also pays tribute to family members who farmed before him. He said since the 1880’s when his ancestors arrived in Sonoma County from Italy generations of his family have produced a range of crops that reflected market demands at the time. Those crops included apples, cherries, pears, prunes, hops, berries, walnuts and, even, potatoes and green beans. Today Lee Martinelli and his wife Carolyn, and their four grown children, Julianna, Lee Jr., George and Regina, farm 450 acres of vineyards and 75 acre of organic apples. Additionally, the family owns and operates Martinelli Winery, a landmark winery on River Road in Windsor. The six family members all have an equal vote in running the family’s farming business and winery. Lee and his two sons are the dirt farmers, proudly taking care of the vineyards and apple orchards, some in the family since the 19th century. Carolyn works in administration and daughters Regina and Julianna market the Martinelli wine. The sisters’ goal is to sell more wine so the winery can use more of the grapes grown by their father and brothers. The Martinellis sell about 90 percent of their grapes to other wineries, using select grapes from special vineyards like the Three Sisters or Zio Tony Ranch for the wine label bearing their name. In its former life, Martinelli Winery was two old hop barns – another sign of the changing farmscape in Sonoma County. The Martinellis realized they could preserve the hop barns by using them as the centerpiece of a modern wine facility that produces ultrapremium wines from their estate vineyards that spread from Sebastopol to Cazadero. The historic building, a monument to the era when hops were king in Sonoma County, reflects the Martinelli family’s deep, abiding roots in the county. Like many family farmers, Lee and Carolyn Martinelli consider themselves stewards of the land – caretakers really – who nurture the land until it passes to the next generation. Carolyn grew up as a member of the Charles family, which had sheep and cattle ranches in Cazadero. Through judicious estate planning, Lee and Carolyn Martinelli have positioned their children to carry on the family’s agricultural heritage. “It’s so gratifying that our four children really like being part of a family farming operation and are dedicated to seeing it continue for generations to come,” said Lee Sr. “I am so proud that our family works together in this agricultural business and plays together as a family.” The Martinelli Family will be honored at Love of the Land along with Tish Ward, manager of the Atwood Ranch in Glen Ellen and recipient of the Luther Burbank Conservation Award, and Saralee McClelland Kunde of Windsor, who is being inducted into the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame. The Love of the Land event, featuring Sonoma County wine and food, celebrates the best of Sonoma County including farm people like the Martinellis, Tish Ward and Saralee. The Martinelli Family’s long history in Sonoma County started in the 1880’s when Lee Martinelli’s grandparents, Giuseppe Martinelli and Luisa Vellutini, 19 and 16 at the time, eloped form their small village in Tuscany and made their way to California, eventually, settling in the Forestville area. Within two years, Giuseppe had staked enough money to purchase land of his own including the famed Jackass Hill, a forbidding hillside with a 60

degree slope that still produces the Martinelli family’s signature zinfandel wines. Giuseppe died in 1918, leaving Luisa alone to raise four children and run the Forestville farm. Her youngest son, Leno, who was 12 years old at the time, was a born farmer eager to take over for his father. Leno’s two older brothers wanted nothing to do with farming the impossibly steep hillside, so Leno began farming the zinfandel vines on what would become Jackass Hill. Leno’s family told him that only a jackass would be stubborn enough to farm a hill so steep and treacherous. The vineyard became known as Jackass Hill and, today, is used as the vineyard designate on select Martinelli zinfandel. More than 120 years later, Jackass Hill remains the steepest, non-terraced vineyard in Sonoma County and the source of incredible zinfandel grapes. Leno tended the vines on Jackass Hill the way his father had, even using a horse and plow until the 1950’s when he traded his draft horse for a tractor. Finally, at the age 89, Leno decided to hang up the keys to his John Deere, turning care of Jackass Hill over to his son, Lee Martinelli Sr. Leno died in 2000. Like his father before him, Lee was introduced to vineyard work as a child, performing all seasonal tasks necessary and learning the old viticulture practices handed down through the generations. After high school, Lee went off to college and earned an agricultural degree, becoming a vocational agriculture instructor at Santa Rosa High School. Additionally, he served as the adviser to the Santa Rosa Young Farmers. Following the death of his uncle Tony Bondi, Lee Martinelli in 1973 left teaching and took over management of his uncle’s ranching operations, comprised mainly of apple orchards. Lee began planting vineyards in the rich soil of the Russian River Valley. He quickly earned a reputation as a premium grape grower, with is fruit in great demand by leading wineries. Lee also was active in community and agricultural organizations serving as a director of the Sebastopol Cooperative Cannery and Sebastopol Apple Growers and as a trustee of the Forestville School District. His farming skills and community involvement earned him the Sonoma County Harvest Fair’s Outstanding Young Rancher Award in 1978. A generation later, the Harvest Fair award was bestowed on each of his sons, Lee Jr, in 2004, and George in 2008. Along the way, Lee and Carolyn realized the exceptional potential to create superb wines from their vineyards and decided to establish their own winery, utilizing the old hop barns on their ranch on River Road. The wines are made by consultant winemaker Helen Turley and resident winemaker Bryan Kvamme, who has been crafting award-winning Martinelli wines for 18 years. Previous to its use as a winery, the historic hop barns were used by the Martinelli family as a farm store for their Gravenstein and Golden Delicious apples. In those days, it was common in the late summer and fall to see the four Martinelli children polishing and packing apples for their mom to sell at the store. In converting the hop barns to a winery tasting room, the Martinellis were careful to preserve the integrity and history of the century old building. Inside the Martinelli Tasting Room visitors can still see the hop pickers’ writings on the walls. But then the Martinellis are all about history and heritage. “I feel so fortunate and blessed that my ancestors came to Sonoma County, specifically, the Russian River Valley, with the vision to own and farm their own land,” said Lee Sr. “Our family has been able to continue that farming legacy while respecting and nurturing the land that has made it all possible.” 171

August 2013

Farm Bureau’s “Love of the Land” Celebrates Stewards of the Land Saralee Kunde, Martinelli Family and Tish Ward Honored by 1,200 people attending the outdoor celebration at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard Saralee, a pivotal figure in Sonoma County agriculture for more than 30 years, was inducted into the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame. The evening drew a mix of people, urban and rural, from throughout Sonoma County and beyond. Attorneys and bankers rubbed elbows with farmers and vintners while sipping wines from 33 wineries and sampling food from 16 food purveyors during the Sonoma Grown reception. Then guests feasted on a barbecued beef and chicken dinner prepared by Farm Bureau directors and Preferred Sonoma Caterers. The dinner centered on locally grown food including tomatoes produced by Parsons HomeGrown Tomatoes of Santa Rosa, Rocky the Range chicken from Petaluma Poultry Processors and beef from Santa Rosa Meat and Poultry. Fresh Gravensteins from the Dutton family were used to make the apple crisp, which was topped by ice cream from Larry Peter’s Petaluma Creamery. Tito Sasaki, president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, proclaimed the night a smashing success in terms of the event itself and its role in bringing the community together to celebrate Sonoma County agriculture and the people who propel it.

t was a night to remember as 1,200 people came together at Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land to celebrate Sonoma County’s bounty while honoring the dedicated stewards who are doing their part to protect the land producing that agricultural bounty. Love of the Land was held on July 18 at Richard’s Grove and Saralee’s Vineyard where the county’s natural beauty was on full display among ancient oaks and sweeping vineyard vistas. The annual event celebrates the best of Sonoma County including the hard-working farm families whose legacy of care and stewardship have made Sonoma County the special food and wine region it is today. Many of those enjoying the event’s near perfect weather, spectacular venue, food and wine couldn’t help thinking about their good fortune to live in Sonoma County. “We are truly blessed to live in this very special agricultural region and have much to be proud of. We must do everything we can to preserve Sonoma County’s farming heritage for the generations to come,” said Saralee McClellend Kunde, who was among those honored at Love of the Land.

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“We did it again! Only better than ever,” said Sasaki, a Sonoma Valley grape grower. “We had perfect weather, the exquisite grounds at Richard’s Grove, superb food and wine, charming helpers everywhere, a smoothly run program, and most importantly the nicest people coming to the event.” In fact, said Sasaki, “The most frequent comment I heard was “Everybody was so nice at Love of the Land!” The experience was like enjoying the perfect Sonoma wine with your best friends.” But like the finest wine, said the Farm Bureau president, the Love of the Land celebration doesn’t happen by accident. Sasaki said planning for Love of the Land began immediately after last year’s event. “Farm Bureau staff and directors, volunteers, contributing industries and organizations, all spent months of their time, preparing for this one-day event, all the way to the day of the event -- and even after the event for clean-up,” said Sasaki. “I deeply thank all of them, particularly, the staff members who spent days and nights to assure the event’s success.” Sasaki said he was indebted to all of Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s great friends who came to show their solid support for agriculture, stewards of the land and the rural lifestyle that defines Sonoma County. Paul Wenger, a Modesto farmer and president of the California Farm Bureau Federation, told guests that there are few places on the planet that offer the natural beauty and agricultural diversity of Sonoma County and other regions of California. He said the Love of the Land event focuses on the vital role that farmland and farmers play in producing food for millions of people throughout the world. “Join Farm Bureau in protecting the farmland that provides all this bounty,” said Wenger. It was a night to toast the agricultural award winners honored by Sonoma County Farm Bureau. In addition to Saralee Kunde, the award winners were Lee & Carolyn Martinelli Family, recipients of the Farm Family of the Year Award and Tish Ward, manager of the Atwood Ranch in Glen Ellen, who is the recipient of the Luther Burbank Conservation Award. Saralee Kunde, who has worked tirelessly over the 30 years to elevate Sonoma County on the world stage of food and wine, was inducted into the Sonoma County Farm Bureau Hall of Fame for her lifetime achievement in agriculture and community service. The Hall of Farmer award recognizes the giants of Sonoma County agriculture – the men and women who have made outstanding contributions to Sonoma County agriculture and the community. Past recipients include such leaders as Saralee’s husband Richard Kunde. Others include Angelo Sangiacomo, Kip Herzog, Dr. Fred Groverman, Louis Ricci and the late Jess Jackson, Mitch Mulas and Larry Bertolini. Gaye LeBaron, Press Democrat columnist and Sonoma County historian, introduced Saralee as the recipient of the Hall of Fame Award, asking why it took Farm Bureau so long to recognize one of the most influential agricultural leaders of the last half century. Gaye said Saralee has played a key role in the historical evolution of Sonoma County agriculture. Gaye commented on Saralee’s remarkable legacy of agricultural leadership, saying Saralee has been behind most anything that has happened in agriculture during the last three decades including founding the Russian River Valley Winegrowers and building the

Sonoma County 4-H Center. For more than 20 years, Saralee and her husband Richard have donated the use of Richard’s Grove to non-profit wine, food, agriculture and farm youth groups organizations for events, which have raised millions of dollars for those organizations. Saralee was gracious and humble in accepting the Hall of Fame award. “I only played a small part,” said Saralee, “It took a lot of people and dedicated leadership to get all of us – and Sonoma County – where we are today.’ Today, Sonoma County is considered California’s premier wine and food region, a special place that produces world class wines and an array of specialty foods that range from artisan cheeses to grass feed lamb. Richard Kunde, a leading figure in Sonoma County’s transformation to Wine Country, was inducted into the Sonoma County Farm Bureau Hall of Fame in 2008. Sonoma County rancher and conservationist Tish Ward received the Luther Burbank Conservation Award, which recognizes her environmental ethic and tireless efforts in conservation and sustainable farming.” “Tish isn’t just a ranch manager with an environmental conscience, she is a conservation crusader who encourages others to adopt sustainable farming practices that are compatible with nature,” said Farm Bureau executive director Lex McCorvey in naming Tish the recipient of the Luther Burbank Conservation Award. The Lee and Carolyn Martinell Family, who farm 450 acres of vineyards and 75 acres of organic apples and own Martinelli Winery in Windsor, received the Farm Family of the Year. Lee and Carolyn’s grown children, Julianna, Lee Jr. George and Regina, are partners in the family’s farming and winery operations. George and Lee Jr. do much of the farming and Julianna and Regina are involved in sales and marketing of the Martinelli wines. The Martinelli family carries on the legacy of farming, land stewardship and leadership that started 125 years ago when their immigrant Italian ancestors settled in Forestville. The Martinellis are symbolic of the longtime Sonoma County farm family. They represent many generations deeply rooted in agriculture and their community,” said McCorvey in bestowing the Farm Family of the Year award on the Martinelli family.’ The award recipients were escorted to the outdoor stage in a wagon pulled by Belgian draft horses, offering a taste of the power and glory of the Old West. The wagon and horses were driven by Dick Dilworth of Geyserville who generously donated his time and talented draft horse team for the night. He was ably assisted by his wife Jan and son Casey. Many people swelled with pride – and had tears puddle their eyes -- when the spectacular Petaluma Riding and Driving Club’s senior drill team presented the colors while the national anthem was sung by Petaluma horsewoman and country singer Andrea Krout, who is the district representative for Sonoma County Supervisor David Rabbitt. The pageantry of the magnificent horses and beautifully costumed riders in the Petaluma Riding and Driving Club set against the natural beauty of Richard’s Grove was touching and inspiring. The Love of the Land event was planned and coordinated by Farm Bureau directors and staff and assisted by dozens of tremendous volunteers from the community and members of the 4-H and FFA along with agriculture students who are recipients of scholarships provided by the Farm Bureau Foundation of Sonoma County. The Piner High School football team assisted in set-up and clean up for the event.

Left: Saralee Kunde rides shotgun on Dick Dilworth’s wagon at Love of the Land. The horse-drawn wagon brought Farm Bureau honorees to the stage. In addition to Saralee, those riding in the wagon included the Martinelli Family and Tish Ward. Andrea Krout, right, sang the National Anthem. Photo by Alvin Jornada 173

September 2013

Petaluma Creamery Turns 100 and Still Keeps Churning Creamery owner Larry Peter plans big bash on Sept. 14 to Celebrate the Creamery’s Centennial

Petaluma Creamery owner Larry Peter and his life partner Diane Starkey hold an old photograph of the historic creamery, which has been a landmark in Petaluma since 1913. The Petaluma Creamery, located at Western Avenue and Baker Street, is in the background. Photo by Steven Knudsen

he venerable Petaluma Creamery, established in 1913 by a group of dairy farmers, has dutifully anchored the west side of downtown Petaluma for the last century, defining the town’s agricultural roots and serving as the economic engine for the Sonoma-Marin Dairy Belt. Some towns have bell towers, classic courthouses or breweries as their identity. Petaluma has its creamery – and is proud of it. Since its founding 100 years ago, the creamery has been a story about cows, people, rollercoaster milk markets and the trucks that move milk from farm to table. But the Petaluma Creamery is mostly a story about the people – names like Benedetti, Dei and Dondero - who have helped it thrive and prosper

so farmers have an outlet for their milk. Today, the landmark creamery, owned by dairy rancher Larry Peter, remains a vital link in the survival of family dairy farmers in Sonoma and Marin counties. Many in the dairy industry say that if it wasn’t for Peter, the creamery would not be around today celebrating its 100th anniversary and gearing up for a celebration party on Sept. 14. And without the creamery, there would be fewer dairies in the two counties. In 2004, Peter put everything he had on the financial line to buy the Petaluma Creamery, which was likely to be dismantled for its valuable downtown real estate. Dairy Farmers of America had suspended operations at the creamery and had put the landmark facility up 174

for sale. Prospects were razor slim it would continue as a creamery. Peter, a crusader for Sonoma County agriculture, believed the creamery was too valuable to the dairy industry to see it sold to a developer so the stainless steel milk silos and miles of pipeline could make way for houses or a commercial development. He borrowed millions to buy the facility and has invested millions more to keep the plant going. The creamery serves as a kind of safety valve, offering an outlet for highly perishable milk by turning it into butter, cheese, powdered milk and other dairy products. “I bought the creamery because I want milk produced in Sonoma County to stay in Sonoma County and not be shipped to Modesto or Humboldt County for processing,” said Peter. Every day, Peter continues his fight to keep the Petaluma Creamery going despite the challenges of operating an aging dairy processing facility that is only blocks from Petaluma’s City Hall. Community and political leaders commend Peter for his entrepreneurial spirit and unfettered dedication to preserving the creamery and way-of-life in the Sonoma-Marin Dairy Belt. “The Creamery not only has historic significance to our community but has been an essential component of our local economy as well. It has served local dairy producers for one hundred years and played an integral role in ensuring the longevity and continuity of our family farms. Larry Peter’s passion for his agricultural roots coupled with his entrepreneurial spirit is admirable and benefits the industry and above all, our community,” said Sonoma County supervisor David Rabbitt, a Petaluma resident and former member of the Petaluma City Council. Ralph Sartori, who has deep roots in the Sonoma-Marin dairy industry and previously worked for Dairy Farmers of America, said the Petaluma Creamery is important to Petaluma and Sonoma and Marin counties. “The creamery has been the center of Petaluma for a century, the foothold for the town’s economy and identity,” said Sartori. “Over the last 100 years it has supported a lot of families and has been the driving force in supporting other businesses like feed mills and banking institutions.” Sartori said thanks to Larry Peter the creamery has survived to the century mark. And beyond. Peter said he won’t give up and will keep going to build markets for the dairy products he produces at the Petaluma Creamery. He said he is strengthened by the support he gets from his life partner Diane Starkey, who works with him at the creamery. “I want this creamery to be here for another 100 years,” said Peter, 55, “As long as I am alive it will be operating.” Peter is planning a big public party on Sept. 14 to celebrate the creamery’s centennial. From 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Baker Street, which separates the creamery from the Petaluma Creamery Store, will be closed for a street fair and farmers’ market type of festival with booths and food including pasta and polenta from Art Ibleto, the Pasta King. The Petaluma Creamery Store will be open, offering an array of cheeses, ice cream, food and merchandise. There will be tours of the creamery’s processing plant, a visit by Clo the Cow and dairy exhibits including a cow and calf from a Sonoma County dairy farm. The North Bay Dairywomen and Dairy Princesses will be there to share information about the North Bay’s dairy industry. The continuity of the dairy industry is amazing. Just consider that the current Dairy Princess is Francesca Gambonini, the great, great granddaughter of Silvio and Evelina Gambonini, the Petaluma dairy farmers who were among the 35 dairy farmers who founded the Petaluma Cooperative Creamery in 1913. The creamery started because a

booming San Francisco needed butter. Meanwhile, Sonoma County dairy farmers, like the Gamboninis, needed a steady market for the milk and cream they produced. The Gambonini family is still in the dairy business and this year is celebrating 100 years on their Gamlake Dairy off Lakeville Highway. “Today 100 years after its founding -- with my grandparents as original stockholders and shippers -- the Petaluma Creamery is still receiving milk from the Gamlake Dairy, which started the same year as the creamery,” said George Gambonini, a third generation member of the Gambonini family. When George and his wife Margaret retired, the dairy business was turned over to their son Frank and his wife Stacey Gambonini, who have three daughters, Francesca, Alexandria and Samantha, the sixth generation at Gamlake Dairy. George’s parents were Earl and Esther Gambonini. The Gamboninis were among the early-day dairy farmers in the North Bay. But cows have been part of the culture in Sonoma and Marin counties since the late 1860’s when immigrants from Switzerland, Ireland, Italy and Portugal arrived to pick up milk pails and do what they knew best: tend and milk cows. It’s this cow culture legacy and dairy farmers’ close link to the land that prompted Larry Peter to buy the Petaluma Creamery and give it his all to keep it going for future generations. “What would the North Bay be without the farms and ranches and the people who work them?’ asks Peter, a first generation rancher. Peter is a man on the move, with a mind that is always racing and poised to pounce on the next deal or help someone who needs a favor. He said his work ethic was inspired by his father Virgil Peter, who worked for 40 years pulling green chain at lumber yards including Standard Structures. Peter is edgy, curious and devoted to a way of life he worries could vanish from Sonoma County. “My goal is to keep agriculture here for many more generations, that’s why I support Sonoma County Farm Bureau and the agriculture youth groups like the 4-H and FFA. These young people are our future,” said Peter, who grew up in Sebastopol. Peter didn’t grow up on a ranch but is now one of the most familiar faces in agriculture. As a kid, he picked prunes for Warren Dutton and raspberries for Tony Kozlowski. When he was a teenager he worked at the old Miller Dairy on Mill Station Road in Sebastopol. That experience ignited his desire to one day have a dairy of his own. He washed milk bottles, fed milk to calves and forked hay to the milk cows. He later worked for 10 years at American Door Co., saving his money to buy a ranch. Finally, in 1987 after years of work and saving he was able to buy a dairy ranch in Two Rock, the heart of the Sonoma-Marin Dairy Belt. He said his cows and crops are for the generations before him who wanted to be ranchers. “It was always my Dad’s dream to have a dairy but he couldn’t afford it,” said Peter. “I did this for them as well as for myself.” In addition to owning and operating the 100 year old Petaluma Creamery, Peter has a herd of Jersey cows on his Two Rock Dairy, which produces the Spring Hill Jersey Cheese that is sold at farmers markets and retail shops throughout California. “We grow the feed, milk the cows, make the cheese and sell it,” said Peter. Peter invites everyone to the Petaluma Creamery’s 100th anniversary party on Sept. 14, saying it will celebrate the legacy of an institution that has played a key role in the history and economy of Sonoma County. “The Petaluma Creamery is very special to me, Petaluma and many families who have either worked at the creamery or shipped milk here,” said Peter. 175

October 2013

Santa Rosa Farmers Market – Sonoma County’s True Original Open all year, rain or shine

he bounty of Sonoma County –and beyond – is on spectacular display every Wednesday and Saturday at the Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market, which has been supplying homegrown fruits and veggies to local shoppers for the last 46 years. Today, the venerable outdoor market, where consumers and farmers come together to exchange cash for greens, is thriving at its new location in the parking lot of the Wells Fargo Center for the Arts at 50 Mark West Springs Road. The market, established in 1967, moved from its long-time home at the Santa Rosa Veterans Memorial Building to the Wells Fargo Center parking lot in May of 2012. The market umbrellas and pop-up canopies are highly visible from Highway 101. And that visibility opens the door to drive-by customers anxious to join the party at this twiceweekly food bazaar where you can buy everything from apples to zucchini and sheep milk yogurt to potted orchids. “Our loyal customers return to the market week after week because of the quality of the products and the wonderful, positive energy that this market generates,” said market manager Jaime Smedes. She has been the market’s chief overseer for the last year, enjoying the challenge of setting up shop each Wednesday and Saturday. On Saturdays during the peak of harvest in August and September, there are 80 to 85 vendors and more than 1,000 customers who, often, come as much for the social gathering as the green beans and turnips. Shoppers, who often stay at the market for more than an hour, connect with the farmers who grow the fruits, vegetables, meat, milk, eggs and honey that make the market a delicious roadside attraction. “I really like knowing the farmers who grow the food that I feed my family. It’s a connection that is very important to me,” said Annabelle Hepworth of Santa Rosa, carrying market bags laden with beets, kale, zucchini and melons. Market manager Smedes, who is warm, out-going and super organized, previously worked for the Santa Rosa Chamber of Commerce where she planned and organized special events. Now she orchestrates special events twice a week, interacting with farmers, food preparers and crafts people along with the customers at the market. “I enjoy planning and organizing,” said Smedes. “Sonoma County is such a large and important agricultural area. For me it’s rewarding to be part of something that is so important to farmers and the customers who want the local farm products and want to support our local farmers.” The Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market is a California Certified Market, which guarantees that all produce, meat, flowers, herbs and honey are grown and harvested in Sonoma County or somewhere in California. Certified also means that the person who sells the farm goods is the farmer who produced it, a family member or farm employee. The market accepts government assistance vouchers through various programs such as WIC, Cal Fresh, Sonoma RX and EBT. Depending on the season, there are special events at the market throughout the year. On Saturday, Oct. 26, the market will have a kids pumpkin carving contest to celebrate

Halloween. The pumpkin carving starts at 9:30 a.m. and continues until the pumpkins are gone. The Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market is a member or Sonoma County Farm Bureau, the county’s largest agricultural organization that works on many fronts to keep farmers on the land. A number of vendors including Hector’s Honey, Dry Creek Peach & Produce, Jana McCelland’s Organic Butter, Two Rock Valley Cheese, Sebastopol Berry Farm and Min Hee Hill Gardens also are member of Farm Bureau, which represents all farmers no matter the size of their operation or their farming philosophy. This time of year, the array of produce at the market is remarkable – testament to the tenacity of the county’s small-scale farmers and the good earth that produces the fruits of their labor. The flavor and freshness keep consumers coming back and the cash flowing to those who earn a living on the land. “Customers want a good product and they get it here at the market,” said Hector Alvarez of Hector’s Honey in Santa Rosa. In addition to honey, Alvarez, a member of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, raises a large variety of produce including Crane Melons, onions and tomatoes as well as free range eggs. He said moving the market to the Wells Fargo Center increased the visibility of the market, which has been great for his business. The Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market is already the biggest market in Sonoma County and poised to grow even more when Sutter Hospital opens in the fall of 2014. “The market is visible and accessible,” said Alvarez, “I see it getting bigger every year.” Libby Batzel of Beet Generation Farm in Sebastopol depends on the Santa Rosa Original Certified Market to earn her living as a farmer. She is at the Santa Rosa market every Wednesday and Saturday and also peddles her produce at the Sebastopol Farmers Market and directly to friends and neighbors. “I am making a living as a farmer,” said Batzel, a new member of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. She said her income is comparable to what a teacher would make but she doesn’t get the summer off and works weekends and holidays. She said it helps that her partner, a paramedic in San Francisco, provides her health benefits. Batzel is known for her top quality produce – especially her beets - and her lively banter when customers come to her stall, which is as beautifully laid out as a fair exhibit. “Those peppers are super sweet,” she tells a shopper eyeing her shiny red peppers. Three years ago Batzel was working as a bartender but now she is a full-time farmer, intensively farming one acre of leased land in Sebastopol. She grows about 50 different crops and has a flock of chickens producing free range eggs. She learned farming as an agricultural apprentice at a 30 acre organic farm in Boulder, Colorado and at then at the Canvas Ranch in Petaluma. She made the jump and went on her own, finding great satisfaction in growing food. Batzel said farming is hard-work and, like most farmers who face bad weather and an outbreak of pests or disease, she sometimes wonders if there isn’t an easier way to make 176

living. The notion quickly passes. “Every year I think about quitting farming,” she said. “But I think about it and change my mind. I do love it and can’t imagine not being surrounded by this good, healthy food that I grow with my own hands.” She said the other thing that keeps her farming is the “affirmation at the market. People really appreciate the food I grow and that is very gratifying.” Batzel said she eats very well, another delicious benefit to farming and being a market

vendor. There is a trading culture among the vendors. Someone who grows carrots and turnips never wants for honey or butter. At the end of the market, vendors swap what they haven’t sold, going home with food they don’t grow themselves. Money is seldom exchanged. “We are the modern Gypsies when it comes to bartering,” said Batezel.

Farmer vendors at the Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market gather for a group photograph during a recent rainy Saturday. The market is held Wednesdays and Saturdays at the Wells Fargo Center for the Arts parking lot. The market and many of the farmer vendors, are members of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Photo by Steven Knudsen 177

October 2013

Farm Bureau Member? Why not? S

onoma County Farm Bureau is putting out the Welcome sign to all farmers, no matter how big or small, organic or conventional, whether they support GMOs or are antiGMO. The message from Farm Bureau’s board of directors is loud and clear - all farmers have a place at the Farm Bureau table so please come and join us. Just consider that Petaluma dairy farmer Jana McClelland, who is a director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau and produces organic milk and butter, is anti-GMO, yet, is a valued voice on the Farm Bureau board. Directors have agreed to civilly disagree on some issues, with genetic engineering of crops and livestock being one of them. Sonoma County needs all kinds of farmers to produce the specialty crops and world class wine that are at the core of the county’s reputation as California’s premier wine and food region. The growing demand for fresh local food offers tremendous opportunities for established and beginning farmers. And farmers, busy scratching a living from the land, need an organization like Farm Bureau to represent them, whether it’s advocating for farm labor or easing cumbersome regulations on artisan cheese producers. Sebastopol farmer Steve Dutton, a Farm Bureau director who grows apples organically and farms his wine grapes sustainably, supports genetic engineering, saying it’s a scientific tool that one day could eliminate mildew in his grapes or thwart other pests. But he respects McClelland’s position of being GMO-Free. Dutton says it best, “Farm Bureau protects your right to farm anyway you want as long as it’s a legal crop. We don’t care if you want to plant your tomatoes naked at midnight under the full moon. You can and should be a Farm Bureau member. If you’re not a Farm Bureau member why aren’t you?” That’s because Sonoma County Farm Bureau, founded by family farmers in 1917, is a grassroots organization that works collectively to tackle issues that one farmer would be hard-pressed to battle alone. It’s working together, while sometimes disagreeing, to solve problems that crop up in Sonoma County’s diversified farming industry. Dutton said Farm Bureau members owe it to themselves and Sonoma County agriculture to ask their farming friends and neighbors if they are Farm Bureau members. “And if not, why not? Farm Bureau members need to be advocating the benefits of Farm Bureau and the importance of having everyone in agriculture working together to protect our interests,” said Dutton. Paul Wenger, a Modesto farmer who is president of the California Farm Bureau Federation, echoes that position, saying Farm Bureau’s membership should be as interesting and diverse as California agriculture itself, which has 81,000 farms producing 400 different crops. “Small is good, medium is good, large is good. We need and welcome all farmers,” said Wenger. Agriculture leaders like Wenger say the days of arguing over the definition of a “real” farmer based on acreage or farming philosophy are long past. Perhaps the best and only definition of a “real” farmer today is someone who works the land and derives a major portion of their income from farming. The need to focus on your particular farming operation and earn a pay check is the common ground that both defines and unites us as farmers today. And it’s also the real reason to be a member of Farm Bureau.

Paul Wenger, president of the California Farm Bureau Federation 178

November 2013

Our Right to Farm L

ast week when a smell reminiscent of manure-crusted cowboy boots wafted over Santa Rosa, irate callers speed dialed Farm Bureau, the Agricultural Commissioner’s office and any other agency that might listen to their complaints. It’s fall, the time of year when dairy farmers clean out their pits and spread manure on the land. The manure fertilizes the soil, producing the green, lush pastures we will see next spring. The smell only lasts a few days but the benefits to the land are long-lasting and crucial to good grass production. I for one breathe a sigh of relief when I smell that familiar odor each fall because it’s sensual proof that we still have working dairy farms around Santa Rosa, upholding the rich farming tradition that both defines Sonoma County and drives its economy. I feel the same way in the early spring when wind machines and pumps go off early in the morning to protect the vines from frost. Or when grape gondolas rattle down the road at midnight for night harvest. Ah, I think, we are still a thriving farm county where farmers are actively engaged in agricultural production. All is well. But those routine farming practices – sometimes only occurring a few days a year are cause for complaint from those who move to the country and then want to control and limit what farmers do. Farming is difficult enough these days without all the whines – or threats of legal action - coming from the newly rural who escape to the country from the city, and, immediately, start complaining about the smells, noise, dust and sprays associated with farming. The good news is that Sonoma County’s Right-to Farm Ordinance is working, remaining a vital tool in reducing neighbors’ opposition to normal farming practices. Agriculture leaders say the Right-to-Farm Ordinance, adopted in 1999, continues to be a force in fostering a more peaceful co-existence between farmers and their city slicker neighbors who are unfamiliar with what it takes to produce wine grapes or milk, apples or vegetable crops. Agricultural commissioner Tony Linegar suspects many farmers would have been driven out of business long ago if not for the Right-to-Farm ordinance, which assures producers that Sonoma County is committed to agriculture while warning non-farmers that some inconvenience may be necessary to maintain the scenic farmscape we all enjoy. He said without the ordinance the courts would be jammed with nuisance lawsuits against farmers and his staff would be spending all their time investigating the complaints. “It’s more and more important each year that we have the Right-to-Farm ordinance in Sonoma County because agriculture is under attack. I have never seen it like this,” said Linegar, whose office is in the front lines for all the complaints about farming. “We are in a battle to hang on to our agricultural heritage.” Linegar said during this year’s wine grape harvest his office had numerous calls complaining about the noise during night harvest. He said the ordinance gives his staff a firm, factual basis on which to respond to complaints, saying Sonoma County values agriculture and protects farmers’ rights to perform acceptable agricultural practices. In other words agriculture was here first. Linegar said the Right to Farm Ordinance is not a license to protect sloppy operators or those who violate pesticide safety regulations. Those bad apples will be dealt with

appropriately. He said the ordinance interjects some common sense into the conflict between farmers and their uninformed, non-farming neighbors. And common sense is a rare commodity these days when it comes to agricultural awareness among city folk who settle in the country. 179

November 2013

Farmer Vic â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Agâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Goodwill Ambassador Farm Bureau member Victor Pozzi reaches out to city folks who flock to his Windsor farm

Farmer Vic with Norman, one of the Brahamas in the animal menagerie that attracts visitors to the gates of his farm on Shiloh Road in Windsor. Photo by Steven Knudsen 180

his old farm is the best show in town, attracting visitors from around the world who have come to know “Farmer Vic” as the kindly keeper of a menagerie of feathered and hooved critters in pastures along Shiloh Road in Windsor. Critters like an emu named “Arnold Schwarzenegger” and his mate “Maria Shriver” and a big Brahma bull named Turkey. (The bull earned his name fair and square, he was born on Thanksgiving Day). Farmer Vic is Victor Pozzi, an 82-year old bachelor, retired dairy rancher and ex-volunteer firefighter, who has turned his 28 acre dairy ranch into a kind of Noah’s Arc of the Barnyard. Vic, a longtime member of Sonoma County Farm Bureau and a fixture at fairs and Ag Days, often entertains up to two dozen people a day. These are the visitors who stop in his driveway to feed stale bread and bagels to the animals that line up along the fence for the high-carb treats. Vic is a genuine dirt-under-the fingernails farmer whose big hands and signature vice-grip handshake are testament to a life of hard work. For nearly 40 years he operated a dairy on the property, never missing a morning or evening milking in all the time he had the cows. In sickness and health, he was in the milk parlor. Now he is like a zookeeper, overseeing a growing menagerie he admits is out of control. But he loves every minute of the daily sideshow at his ranch gate, amusing himself by engaging in lively banter with the people who stop by, many of them guests at the Wyndham’s WorldMark resort across the road. During a couple of recent mornings, visitors from New York, San Diego and Napa gathered at his gate to watch the animal spectacle and regale in Vic’s wit and wisdom. They even sign Vic’s guest book. “This is the entertainment center,” said Vic. “It’s a big draw for these city folks. I enjoy the people who come by.” He said it’s entertainment for him as well. “The hours and days don’t mean anything here. The days are all the same and I just roll along with them,” said Vic, who epitomizes the notion of simple living. And he just may be the happiest human in Sonoma County and beyond. The farmer has a stash of one-liners that keep people laughing and coming back for more. “These are show cattle,” he says of his Brahma cattle when people ask what he does with them. “I show them to you and then I show them to you and you and you and whoever else comes by.” The show and conversation are free. He even gives visitors a postcard with a picture of him and his animals. People leave with a positive attitude about Sonoma County agriculture and the iconic farmer they just met. Vic has become Sonoma County agriculture’s goodwill ambassador, enhancing the image of farmers everywhere because of his caring ways and kindred spirit. “Vic is the best thing going for Sonoma County agriculture. We definitely need more people like him,” said Sonoma County agriculture leader Saralee McClelland Kunde, who is among Vic’s friends and admirers. Many suggest he should be recognized as Friend of Sonoma County Agriculture for all the good he does to bridge the gap between urban and rural, city and country. Vic’s farm is on the urban edge, located just north of the county airport, south of the Windsor Golf Club and west of SRJC’s Public Training Safety Center. Ten years ago the WorldMark Windsor vacation ownership resort went up across the street. Guests walk over to see the emu and Brahma cattle. Vic and his Brahma cattle are known worldwide. A photograph of Vic feeding loaves of French bread to his cattle – taken by ace photographer Kent Porter of the Press Democrat went out over the wires and was printed in newspapers around the globe. Vic got a clipping from someone who had seen his picture in a newspaper in Afghanistan.

The numbers of animals on the farm keep increasing because Vic rarely sells anything, admitting they are pets and in his book you don’t sell or eat your pets. Eating one of his Brahmas would be like eating Jeffrey, his ever-working Border Collie. Vic estimates the flock of geese numbers 500 and there are 40 or so sheep. Dozens of ducks – all named Quacker – chickens galore, a pack of emu – all rescued - and 13 head of Brahma cattle, all as gentle as his lambs. “I couldn’t eat this guy,” said Vic, petting Norman, one of his Brahamas. “If I want a steak I buy it at the store.” He estimates it costs him an average of $1,000 a month to feed all the animals, buying all of his hay and grain from Hunt & Behrens in Petaluma. He said it takes two truck and trailer loads of hay each year to feed the cattle and sheep. He reduces his feed bill a little bit by picking up old bread and bagels from the Food Pantry in Windsor, feeding the recycled bread to everything on the farm, even the sheep. “It’s very poor management here, everything is out of control,” admits Vic, who seems to relish the chaos. “I spend a lot more time with my animals than most people would but I have the time and they are my pets.” Vic sold his dairy cows in 1987 when he was 56, exiting the competitive dairy business during one of the federal government’s efforts to shrink the milk surplus by taking dairy cows out of production. He was among more than a dozen Sonoma County dairies that signed up for the government program that year. Vic grew up milking cows on a family dairy in the Sonoma Valley, working with his father Jerry Pozzi. He learned to work at an early age and has never stopped. “When I came home from school I milked cows, there wasn’t time for baseball,” he said. With deep roots in Sonoma County, Vic is related to many of the old farming families including the Corda, Sartori, Ramatici and Roselli families. He counts about 16 first cousins. He leaves the farm to attend birthday and anniversary parties, funerals and reunions with his extended family members. Vic graduated from Sonoma Valley High School in 1950 and four years later left the family farm to serve in the Army. He returned home in 1956 and went back to milking cows. It was at this time that he became a volunteer with the Schell-Vista Fire Department, the start of what would be a life-long connection to volunteer firefighting. When he moved from the Sonoma Valley to the farm in Windsor in 1963 he and some neighbors decided the rural area needed a volunteer fire department. He and a couple dozen others donated $100 each and then went to door-to-door to enlist a fire brigade. The volunteer fire department, which today is the Windsor Fire Protection District, went into service with some old trucks in 1965. For decades, Vic was one of the most dedicated of the volunteer firefighters, jumping into action each time the fire horn would sound. He was named Windsor Fire’s “Most Dependable Firefighter” of the year nine times. But, all good things must come to an end. When he turned 75, Vic was asked to give up volunteer firefighting because of his age. “They kicked my ass out because I was too damned old,” said Vic. But Vic, one of the last co-founders of the department, continues to serve on the Windsor Fire Protection District Board of Directors. A meeting room at the fire department is named for him. Between the farm and fire department, he keeps busy and connected to the community he loves and that loves him. “I hope that along the way that I have helped somebody,” said Vic, whose daily acts of kindness have brightened untold lives.

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December 2013

Christmas Comes to Crane Country W

hen the last Crane melon rolls out the door each fall, the Crane family gets busy transforming their historic Crane Melon Barn into a glittering country Christmas boutique. And a remarkable transformation it is as wreaths, decorated trees, sparkling lights and gift items galore festoon the landmark Santa Rosa barn that two centuries ago housed horses and hay. Today, it’s a well-preserved piece of Sonoma County history that during the fall serves as the outlet for the family’s Crane Melons, a local delicacy for nearly a century. Once the melons are gone, the barn is decked for Christmas and for its next starring role. For the last 25 years or so, the Crane Family, as rooted to the soil on Petaluma Hill Road as their namesake melons, have staged the Christmas boutique. The boutique not only shares their love for the barn and all things Christmas but generates extra farm income. Some would call it agri-tourism but the Cranes just call it fun, taking pride in sharing the old barn during this magical time of the year. “The Cranes loves Christmas,” said Cindy Crane, who is the wife of Rick Crane, the fifth generation of his family to farm the Santa Rosa land settled by Crane family members in 1852. Actually the Christmas boutique in the Crane barn was started by Rick’s late mother Jacqueline Crane, a crafter who started selling some of her crafted creations along with her walnuts and dried fruit once the melon season was finished. The trip to the Crane barn is as uniquely rewarding as the shopping experience. The old barn is one of those quintessential Sonoma County places that, particularly, during the Christmas season offers an escape from the madding crowds and traffic jams at shopping malls and big box stores. While most Sonoma County farms have closed for the winter, the Crane Melon Barn and others like Oak Hill Farm’s Red Barn in the Sonoma Valley stay open during the weeks between Thanksgiving and Christmas. The Crane Christmas Boutique has grown over the years. Announcements about the event are now sent to more than 1,300 people on the mailing list and many more guests are invited via the internet. Others find their way to the Crane barn through advertising or just driving along Petaluma Hill Road and spotting the activity. The Christmas Boutique opens its door the day after Thanksgiving and then runs 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays until Dec. 22. “From summer through Christmas it’s pretty crazy around here because we move from the Crane melons right to the Crane Christmas Boutique,” said Cindy Crane. Rick and Cindy’s daughter and only child Jennifer Crane, 35, is carrying on the family farming tradition, which, today, includes wine grapes along with the Crane melons and hay. Generations of the Crane Family have been members of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, the county’s oldest and largest agricultural organization. They also are active in the agricultural community. Cindy serves on the board of directors of the Sonoma County Fair and Jennifer, a former 4-H Club member and state winner in beekeeping, is a director of the 4-H Foundation of Sonoma County.

In addition to her love for farming, Jennifer also inherited the Crane’s Christmas gene, going all out to decorate her home on the family ranch off Crane Canyon Road. Each year she puts up four Christmas trees, each with themed decorations, like the Barbie tree in one room and the wine themed tree in another. The Crane Christmas Boutique also is built around an annual theme. This year’s theme is “Holiday Sparkle with the Cranes” and the inside of the old barn sparkles with lights, tinsel and all sorts of crystal and glass collectables. Cindy Crane, who worked in banking for many years and is more comfortable balancing ledgers than decorating and staging merchandise, hands over that part of the show to friend and boutique partner Brenda Turley. Brenda works for weeks to decorate the barn and display the gift items. It’s an on-going task because once the boutique is open and merchandise moves out, she’s replenishing the tables and shelves with other gift items. The Cranes work with local crafts people, artists and antique dealers to assemble an array of gifts and collectibles that are often one-of-a-kind and sometimes uniquely Sonoma County, like the vintage Grace Bros. beer can being offered this year. There’s handmade jewelry, silver serving pieces, gourmet food and holiday décor. It’s an adventure to explore this country emporium. Next to a Christmas pillow there’s a wind chime crafted from an old parking meter. There are gifts for the horse enthusiast and porcelain tea cups from Ireland for a favorite aunty. “We strive to keep it fun and eclectic, offering gifts that definitely are not made in China,” said Cindy Crane. Throughout the year, Jennifer Crane scouts the county for whimsical stuff that bring smiles and ring up sales at her family’s Christmas boutique. Each year, the Cranes offer space in the barn to a non-profit group to sell merchandise and raise funds. This year, the Cranes are partnering with the North Bay Woolgrowers Auxiliary, a non-profit organization that raises money for agricultural scholarships and other educational programs. “The non-profits get to sell their items with no charge,” said Cindy. Normally, she said, vendors pay a start-up fee towards advertising and then 20 percent of their sales to the Crane Melon Barn. Cindy said the staffing for sales is on a cooperative basis, with all vendors working designated shifts during the 15 days the barn is open during the Christmas season. On busy weekends the barn is jam-packed with customers looking for that special gift item. The good thing is that they will likely find it.

Right: Rick and Cindy Crane and their daughter, Jennifer, turn their historic Crane Melon Barn into a Christmas boutique each December. Photo by Steven Knudsen 182

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December 2013

Passing Down the Family Farm

hard but among the many sacrifices necessary for the successful operation and eventual transition of the family ranch. The dynamics of a family living and working together on a farm can be the stuff of dreams if everyone gets along. But those same family dynamics can also become a nightmare because of “the difficulty farm families have in organizing and taking advantage of their primary asset – themselves,” write Donald J. Jonovic and Wayne Messick, the authors of “Passing Down the Farm.” This is an old book that I consult frequently when I hear of another family headed to court to divide up the ranch estate or dissolve a farming partnership because of irreconcilable differences. It’s what the authors call the “divorce wish.” Experts say a family farm’s future is as dependent on healthy family relationships as it is on good farming practices. Sometimes you might just have to suck it in, breathe deeply and talk nice to that snooty daughter-in-law or good-for-nothing son-in-law. Authors Jonovic and Messick write that the spouses brought back to the ranch by sons and daughters are rarely as bad as Dad and Mom make them out to be. Everyone should just try to get along – and effectively communicate - not only for the sake of family harmony but to make sure the farm is there for the next generation. The authors say understanding the different points of view and accepting “other people in the family as well-meaning human beings following their own personal compasses. Such acceptance can serve very well to repair that parted communication cable.” It’s as simple as it is difficult: effective communication can mean the difference between saving or losing the farm.

amily farms, like most family businesses, seldom survive their founders and make it to the second generation. Third and fourth-generation farms are rarities but not unheard of in Sonoma and Marin counties where families like the Cranes, Cordas, Kundes, Grossis and Dolcinis are still on land that has been in the family for a century or more. But those families are the exceptions. Over the decades, I have seen more ranches sold off because of family feuds over land and money than the inevitable financial pitfalls of farming caused by depressed markets and lousy weather. Ranchers are more likely to survive Mother Nature than a troublemaking daughter-in-law who moves to the family dairy and wants a bigger chunk of the milk check. Or a non-farming cousin who wants to cash-out his inheritance in Nonno’s vineyard. With each succeeding generation and a new crop of in-laws, the problems are compounded, reducing the chances that the farm will stay in the family. Only 30 percent of family farms make it to the second generation. The statistics grow grimmer as farms pass into succeeding generations. Only 12 percent of family farms make it to the third generation and three percent to the fourth generation and beyond. The stakes are high when you consider that the average age of American farmers is 57 and the fastest growing segment of farm operators is the group 65 and older. Farm succession is a hot topic at farm conferences workshops because many ranches will be transitioning to the next generation in the years ahead. Experts recommend succession planning and on-going communication among all family members so everyone – even an outcast in-law - is on the same page. It’s darn 184

January 2014

Sonoma County’s Culture of Food and Wine W

e have seen the economic future for Sonoma County and it is food and wine. Sonoma County has the land, climate, history, people – and extraordinary will – to produce the world class wines and specialty foods that go with them: artisan cheese from Petaluma paired with a chardonnay from the Russian River Valley or Pozzi Lamb accompanied by a glass of Dry Creek zin. This delicious combination, the soul of our agricultural identity, differentiates earthy Sonoma County from the more glamorous Napa Valley. Napa produces extraordinary wine but doesn’t have the range of artisan food producers found in Sonoma. The land of Luther Burbank has been compared to Provence and Tuscany and described as the premier wine and food region of California. You can’t buy that kind of promotion. The bounty and promise of Sonoma County agriculture was driven home at the North Coast Food and Agriculture Industry Conference, held Nov. 21 in Santa Rosa. Whole Foods CEO Walter Robb sang Sonoma County’s pastoral praises while encouraging new, beginning and veteran farmers to plant, hoe and harvest for the market. “We’re on the doorstep of a food revolution like I’ve never seen,” said Robb, who became a wealthy man by satisfying the tastes of those who want their food fresh, locally grown and free of pesticides. Robb said the time is ripe for small-scale organic producers in Sonoma County. “Profiling a product – ‘who made it,’ ‘how they made it’ ‘where was it made’ – that’s what the customer wants to know now,” said Robb. He rattled off a number of artisan food pioneers, folks like the crusty Ig Vella of Vella Cheese and Clover’s Gene Benedetti, whose distinct personalities laid the groundwork for Sonoma County’s agricultural renaissance. “People are interested in authenticity,” Robb told the 275 people attending the conference. “You have it in spades.” He said there are next generation producers like Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Joe Pozzi who produces lamb for Whole Foods markets and cheese maven Karen Bianchi Moreda of Valley Ford Cheese Co. Pozzi and Moreda, passionate about their land, livestock and wayof- life, have compelling stories to tell about their agricultural roots, which span generations. “You have so many of these characters in Sonoma County,” said Robb. One of those colorful characters is Neil Gottlieb, a founding twin of Three Twins Ice Cream, which is a phenomenal success story. Gottlieb was part of a panel discussion with other respected food industry leaders, Marcus Benedetti of Clover-Stornetta Farms and Mike Leventini of Petaluma Poultry. All are leading the way in producing food from ranches that care for their land and animals in a way that is sustainable and humane. Robb said farming practices really do matter to an increasing number of today’s consumers. Dave Meddaugh, a senior vice president with Bank of America, one of the conference sponsors, said the energy generated at the conference will be harnessed to grow the county’s thriving food industry, which economists have identified as one of the bright spots for jobs and economic growth. He said food processors need the fruits, vegetables, meat and dairy products grown on Sonoma County farms. Note to county leaders: Agriculture is Sonoma County’s enduring legacy and its promising future. 185

January 2014

Robert Giacomini Dairy Honored for Love of its Land Marin Dairy receives prestigious Leopold Conservation Award for land stewardship

he Robert Giacomini Dairy, a premier Marin County milk producer that is home to the Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co. and is a respected leader in farmland preservation and stewardship, is the 2013 recipient of the prestigious California Leopold Conservation Award. The Leopold Award, presented Dec. 9 at the 95th annual meeting of the California Farm Bureau Federation in Monterey, comes with a $10,000 award. The Leopold Award is given annually to a private landowner with a deep and abiding love for their land, honoring stewards dedicated to leaving their land better than they found it. The award is named for celebrated writer Aldo Leopold, author of A Sand County Almanac, who called for an ethical relationship between people and the land they own and manage. Dairy rancher Robert Giacomini and his grown daughters Karen, Diana, Lynn and Jill own and operate the dairy and Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co. on their 720 acre ranch at Point Reyes Station in coastal Marin County. The Giacomini family epitomizes the values of Aldo Leopold who wrote that the development of a land ethic was “an evolutionary possibility and an ecological necessity.” That ethic is alive and well on the Giacomini Dairy and many of the other farms and ranches in the North Bay’s farm belt. The Leopold Conservation Award is sponsored by the Sand County Foundation, based in Madison, Wisconsin, in partnership with the California Farm Bureau Federation and Sustainable Conservation. Giacomini, a longtime agricultural leader and Farm Bureau member, was at the annual CFBF meeting in Monterey to receive the award. He was accompanied by his daughters Lynn and Jill along with dairy herdsman Brian Waymire and Jim Kehoe, who runs the Giacomini Dairy’s methane digester. “I’ve always felt it was the responsibility of a rancher and landowner to take care of the land for the next generation,” said Giacomini, who has been a dairy farmer for 55 years. In accepting the award, Giacomini was humble and gracious, thanking his family and 40 employees for helping him achieve his vision for a sustainable family farming operation that will continue for generations. “During my 55 years in ranching I never dreamed I would be up before the delegates and membership of the California Farm Bureau to be honored with an award like this,” said Giacomini. The Giacomini’s land has been protected forever through the Marin Agricultural Land Trust, ensuring that family members can continue the ranching legacy through this century and beyond. “It makes me feel good to know that my grandchildren are going to be on our land, which has been protected in perpetuity,” said Giacomini, who has eight grandchildren. Giacomini’s wife Dean passed away in 2012. The couple had been married 54 years. California Farm Bureau president Paul Wenger said the Giacomini family is a shining example of how farmers and ranchers care for their land and natural resources, preserving a healthy, working landscape for future generations. “Responsible care for our land and other natural resources has allowed California farmers

and ranchers to sustainably produce the food and farm products we all depend upon,” said Wenger. “The Leopold Conservation Award recognizes outstanding examples of the stewardship that family farmers and ranchers perform every day.” In 2000, after 40 years of milking cows and producing fluid milk on the family ranch, the Giacomini family was at a crossroads. Robert Giacomini was reaching retirement age. Profit margins were thin and couldn’t economically sustain the adult family members who wanted to return to the ranch but did not necessarily want to milk cows. The family made the bold move in 2000 to invest in a value added product – high quality California blue cheese – that would be produced from their herd of Holstein cows. Once they made the decision, the Giacomini family did everything right, hiring an experienced cheese maker to craft what would become the celebrated Point Reyes Original Blue. It was an immediate hit and became a foodie favorite in Bay Area cheese shops. All the milk for the Giacomini’s family artisan cheeses comes from their 300 cows that graze in pastures on the family’s scenic dairy. Believing the quality of the milk and cheese starts with the grass, the family is committed to careful land and pasture management. The farm is certified organic and uses rotational grazing, which keeps grasses and soils healthy, as well as no-till practices on all fields, so the natural fertilizer can absorb into the soil. “Because it says ‘farmstead’ on the label, it means it comes from our land,” Giacomini said, “so we are deeply committed to caring for the land.” The Giacomini family was one of the first to participants in the National Resource Conservation Service’s Conservation Stewardship Program. The family also operates what’s called “The Fork,” a culinary center focused on education and entertainment for people visiting the farm. The Giacomini Dairy hosts meetings of agricultural organizations, culinary students, fellow artisan cheesemakers and others interested in environmental stewardship. The Giacominis are hel;ign the general public understand food production and the vital role private landowners play in conservation. One of the biggest challenges at any dairy is managing cow waste. In 2009, the Giacominis installed a methane digester that converts methane gas—a byproduct of manure—into useable energy that powers the dairy and cheese plant. They also compost their solid manure, and sell some to a local compost company that in turn sells it to nurseries and other farmers, continuing the cycle of replenishing and building soils. “The Robert Giacomini Dairy is a model of a successful family business adopting land management practices that are environmentally sustainable. For over 50 years, this dairy has evolved into the finest family-run and operated dairy business in the western United States,” said Marin County agricultural commissioner Stacy Carlsen. Giacomini, whose ancestors were dairy farmers and cheesemakers in northern taly, holds to the Old World philosophy that if you take care of your land, it takes care of you. “Our land has been very good to us and we consider it our duty and honor to return the favor,” Giacomini said. 186

Robert Giacomini on his Marin County dairy with daughters, left to right, Jill Basch, Diana Hagan, Lynn Stray and Karen Howard. The Giacomini Dairy is the recipient of the Leopold Conservation Award for its land stewardship and ethic. Photograph by Paola Vescia 187

February 2014

Wool, a Shear Delight in Valley Ford loom west of the Rockies. They admit they are still learning what this magnificent piece of machinery can do in transforming wool into useable fabric and material. The Wool Mill’s birth and launch is a tale of grit and gumption by the two very determined ranchers, who are partners in business and in life. The couple, members of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, secured a line of credit on their property after finding their business plan – based on purchasing used wool processing equipment - didn’t meet the criteria of commercial financial lenders. Not deterred, they staked their ranch to start the wool mill. “This business is the evolution of our love of the land and the rural way-of-life in this wonderful place we call home,” said Strozzi. “We are taking wool to the next level in Sonoma and Marin counties and beyond by custom processing wool for sheep owners and by creating beautiful products made from our own sheep.” Mazzucchi and Strozzi have 150 ewes with breeds that include horned Dorsets, Ramboulliet, Shetlands and Navaho Churro sheep. Strozzi’s son, Jack Strozzi, 17, a senior at Tomales High School and active member of the FFA, helps manage the sheep flock, loving the life he was born to. His mother has hopes he will one day carry on the sheep ranching and wool processing business. “I am excited that what we are doing now may give Jack some future opportunities to keep the ranch a working ranch and contribute to the local economy too,” said Strozzi. Strozzi said the demand for local wool by craft artisans and fiber mongers is similar to the consumer push for locally grown fresh fruits and vegetables. The strong demand for wool processed from the Sonoma-Marin Fiber Shed hardly gave Mazzucchi and Strozzi time to get their heads around the machinery and equipment when they opened their wool processing facility, housed in an historic barn in the center of town. Within weeks wool from nearby flocks was arriving by the sack full for processing. “We can’t keep up with the product line fast enough,” said Strozzi. She said ranchers and crafters are pleased that, finally, a local wool processing plant has opened in the North Bay. “I kept hearing from everyone that a wool processing facility has been talked about for years but no one could ever pull it off. Well, we rolled up our sleeves and invested more than $100,000 to make it happen,” said Strozzi. While Mazzucchi keeps the machinery and ranches running, Strozzi oversees the retail shop while also designing and creating wool products like bedding, clothing and novelties such as wool hand warmers and computer covers. She is a whiz at the sewing machine and relishes the creative process. Her handiwork is among the items sold in the Mercantile’s retail shop.

ool is making a big and welcome comeback in the pastures of the North Coast. And nowhere is that renaissance more evident than in and around pastoral Valley Ford, which has become the Northern California epicenter for wool processing and new lines of wool products. Not long ago most of the wool from area ranches was going to the county dumps or ending up as mulch on rural property because there was no market for it. But that is all changing as new uses and amazing opportunities surface for this remarkable, natural product. The opening of Casey Mazzucchi and Ariana Strozzi’s Valley Ford Mercantile & Wool Mill in Valley Ford and the launch of Amy Chesnut’s Sonoma Wool Co., just a few miles away, has secured Valley Ford’s position as a thriving wool center. And there’s no better place considering the flocks of woolly sheep that graze in the pastures around the small town bisected by Valley Ford Road as it meanders through farmland to Bodega Bay and the Sonoma Coast. The wool renaissance and the birth of Sonoma Wool Co., in particular, are an outgrowth of Joe Pozzi’s Puregrow Wool, which Pozzi founded in 1993. Over the last 21 years Pozzi’s business and influence on the dynamics of the wool market have grown like gangbusters. Today Pozzi, a director and past president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, markets more than 80,000 pounds of wool a year. All that wool comes from about 14,000 sheep, his own and from other flocks on ranches along the West Coast. PureGrow Wool is used in all natural bedding, pillows, comforters and mattresses that are sold around the country. Chesnut, who is Pozzi’s fiancé, last year began using some of Pozzi’s Puregrow Wool for a line of her own products, sold under the Sonoma Wool Co. label. The line now includes dish drying mats, dog toys and dryer balls, wool tennis balls that can be tossed into the dryer to whisk moisture and reduce drying time. Chesnut is developing other new product lines and will soon be marketing an ironing board pad made from wool. Her products are sold online at www.sonomawoolcompany.com and locally at Whole Foods and other retailers. “We are creating a line of wool products to add value to the wool we produce on the ranch. There are thousands of practical uses for wool, which is an incredible fiber,” said Chesnut, whose day job is at the Sonoma Land Trust in Santa Rosa. She said wool not only keeps you warm, it cools you down as well. It absorbs moisture, resists mildew and mold and is inflammable. No wonder coastal sheep are so content in their woolly coats. Casey Mazzucchi, a fourth generation Valley Ford rancher, and Ariana Strozzi, a neighboring sheep rancher in Valley Ford, teamed up to open the Valley Ford Mercantile & Wool Mill in an old barn last August. They invested $135,000 – and tons of sweat equity - to buy the wool processing machines and equipment, most of it salvaged from old textile mills in the South. They now proudly own and operate the only needle point 188

Mazzucchi and Strozziâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wool Mill is too small to handle the volume of wool that Pozzi markets each year. He sends his wool to Texas where it is washed and processed, eventually, the greasy wool is transformed into what are called batts, which are rolls of clean and carded wool ready to be used for bedding and other finished products. Photo by Steven Knudsen 189

February 2014

Hail and Farewell to Saralee A

shining light went out in Sonoma County last week when Saralee McClelland Kunde lost her courageous battle with cancer and died at age 66. She was way too young, of course, but Saralee squeezed more into a day than most people do in a week. She accomplished more in her life cut short than people who live to be 90. Right now she is saying “Whoopee, what a ride.” And what an incredible ride it was for the Two Rock dairy girl who became a prominent grape grower, philanthropist, community leader and agricultural mentor. For the last half century she was the guiding force in almost anything having to do with farming, fairs and farm youth. She was like the Pied Piper, always leading us to do the right thing, no matter if it was building a 4-H Center or planting a zillion daffodils along Wine Country back roads. Saralee, who exuded optimism, said daffodils were such happy little guys, bringing a splash of color and good cheer during the dreary winter months when the grapevines and fruit trees were bare. During her last days, daffodils were in her room, bringing her joy and comfort. “They’re just so darn pretty,” she would say. She was known as the Unsinkable Saralee because in her mind everything was possible, no challenge too great or problem too complicated. She raised millions of dollars over the years for agricultural causes, always adhering to the 4-H motto that was her mantra: “To make the best better.” It was in her DNA, like her exuberance, can-do-spirit and simplicity of soul. Saralee bristled when described as an “agricultural activist” in newspaper stories as she championed causes and affected change. In her mind, activists were flag burning, potsmoking radicals storming the courthouse. Activist or not, she was a formidable force of nature, using her energy, passion and resources to shape and promote Sonoma County as California’s premier wine and food region. Over the last 40 years she did more to promote Sonoma County agriculture than anyone else. She deeply believed that her beloved Sonoma County was defined by the land and the people who farm it. “Farming is not only Sonoma County’s rich heritage but its identity,” she would say when mustering support for any cause, campaign or charity that would promote or enhance agriculture. That included mentoring and encouraging 4-H and FFA members who she saw as the next generation of agricultural leaders. Saralee often said she could not have done any of it without her husband Richard Kunde, who was her staunchest supporter and most avid cheerleader. Richard’s success with his company Sonoma Grapevines, once the biggest grapevine nursery in the United States, gave Saralee the platform and the financial resources to, not only be a philanthropist herself, but provided access to other well-heeled community leaders. Not that Saralee cared to be part of what one society matron called “the mink and manure set.” She disdained fancy cocktails and society balls. Saralee was happiest when watching 4-H and FFA kids show their Holsteins and Jerseys at the fair. Or when taking bids at an auction – or sometimes becoming the auctioneer herself – raising money for 4-H. So hail and farewell to Saralee, a dear friend who became a legend in her time. It is hard to imagine Sonoma County without her. She was, and always be, extraordinary. Period. End of story. 190

March 2014

Rancho’s Trials and Tribulations industry hopes Evans can pull it off. It certainly would benefit the growing legion of niche livestock farmers. Evans, an agricultural entrepreneur, has proven he has the right stuff in building his Marin Sun Farms into a thriving meat company. Now, his vision is to take over Rancho and build Marin Sun Farms into a $50 million dollar business in six years. “This is a game changer,” Evans told reporter Robert Digitale of the Press Democrat. “This will transform the future of livestock agriculture in the surrounding area.” Indeed it will if Evans is successful. A multi-species slaughter house is a dream-cometrue for many who have worked for decades to develop slaughter facilities for livestock raised on small farms in Sonoma County and the North Bay region. And it’s a delicious prospect for consumers who will enjoy greater availability of meat raised by family farmers in Sonoma County.

he curious case of Rancho Feeding Corp. has left cattle ranchers without a local slaughterhouse and the rest of us wondering what really went on behind the gates at the Petaluma facility. For weeks we wondered if it was just a paper work snafu or a serious breach of federal inspection laws that caused the owners of Rancho to voluntarily close and recall more than 8 million pounds of meat. Then, days ago we learned that there is a criminal investigation with allegations that Rancho deliberately circumvented the inspection process. Rancho’s owners deny those allegations. Whatever the outcome, Rancho’s closure and massive recall has left beef producers, like Bill Niman of Bolinas, without a local slaughter facility while facing the prospect of huge financial losses. USDA is demanding that Niman destroy at least $300,000 worth of frozen meat custom-slaughtered at Rancho. Mind you, this is high-end, grass feed beef Niman and his wife Nicolette Hahn Niman carefully nurtured – and racked – from birth through slaughter. If the USDA persists in demanding that the Nimans’ beef be destroyed it could put the Nimans out of business. And what a shame that all their high quality, nutritious meat will go to waste while local food banks and soup kitchens scramble to gather food for the hungry. Niman said destroying the meat is “abhorrent and immoral.” USDA’s action only bolsters the notion of the big, bad bureaucracy being intractable in its approach and immune to common sense. The Nimans’ beef were not the old, crippled dairy cows that undoubtedly launched the USDA investigation in the first place. Initially, USDA asserted that Rancho “processed diseased animals” without an inspection. Even Rep. Jared Huffman, D-San Rafael, has jumped in, saying the USDA should test the Niman meat or find some other way to ensure its safety so it isn’t destroyed. The USDA’s handling of this case has outraged just about everyone, from local politicians who couldn’t get a straight answer to the small-scale family farmers who are left with nowhere to go with their cattle and embarrassing questions from their customers about the quality and safety of the meat purchased. One of the most outspoken ranchers is Lesly Brabyn of Salmon Creek Ranch in Bodega. She and her family are part of the local food movement, producing beef, goats and pastured ducks on their 400 acre ranch. Their products are sold to consumers who don’t want their food trucked thousands of miles to their dinner table. Ironically, it was Rancho’s very existence that allowed small-scale family farmers like the Brabyns to raise and market local beef. Rancho is the only USDAinspected slaughter house in the North Coast. Now that it’s closed, ranchers have to haul their cattle to the Central Valley or Eureka to be killed and processed. “I am mystified and outraged about what has happened. The USDA has completely overstepped its bounds. There is nothing to justify the way the USDA has handled this,” said Brabyn. “No one has become ill from this meat.” She is livid that the USDA is demanding that the Niman beef be dumped in a landfill. “It’s unconscionable to destroy that perfectly good meat,” said Brabyn. The good news coming out of the whole Rancho mess is that David Evans of Marin Sun Farms is planning to buy Rancho and reopen it within a couple of months. The deal is in escrow and, if successful, Evans plans to one day slaughter sheep, goats and hogs in addition to cattle. It’s a grand plan with many hurdles but everyone in the livestock 191

March 2014

Great Sonoma Crab & Wine Fest Raises more than $100,000 for Scholarships More than 1,300 people attend the annual event

onoma County Farm Bureau’s Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest, a mid-winter party where people from the farm and business communities come together to socialize while supporting the next generation of agricultural leaders, raised more than $100,000 for scholarships and agricultural education programs. The sold-out event attracted more than 1,300 people who come as much for the social interaction as the tasty crab from Bodega Bay. The Crab Fest was a grand night for not only eating fresh crab and sipping fine Sonoma County wines but for renewing old friendships and making new friends. It was a chance for farmers to rub elbows with business and political leaders and for elected officials to connect with the people they represent. All five members of the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors were at the Crab Feed along with other state and federal legislators and many county officials. “I was overwhelmed to see that so many of our friends came to the Crab Fest. We had all five County Supervisors, past Supervisors, Congressman Mike Thompson, Assemblyman Marc Levine, many public agency heads, city council members and city mayors,” said Tito Sasaki, a Sonoma Valley grape grower who is president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Sasaski said besides Farm Bureau members the Crab Fest drew an impressive number of industry leaders from trade, distribution, banking, insurance, and other businesses. “All of them are vital members of the Sonoma County agricultural community,” said Sasaki. “We all help each other to survive and prosper.” During a portion of the live auction guests had the opportunity to raise their paddles to support agriculture education and scholarship programs. The bidding raised more than $40,000 in donations for scholarships with additional funds raised at the Crab Feed putting the total to more than $100,000 for agricultural education. The money will be used to teach urban school kids about local food production and provide agricultural scholarships to at least 30 of Sonoma and Marin counties’ best and brightest students majoring in agriculture at college. “I was deeply touched and grateful for our guests’ warm friendship and support,” said Sasaki. “It certainly gave our directors and staff additional impetus to continue working hard to keep the Farm Bureau at the forefront of our community effort to strengthen agriculture in Sonoma County.” Guests enjoyed more than 5,000 pounds of Dungeness crab in addition to gallons of clam chowder, “Pasta King” pasta, salad and dessert, all polished off with fine wines from Sonoma County. There were more than 200 volunteers, mostly fresh faced 4-H and FFA members, helping to stage the event and serve the guests. At the live auction, guests bid on special lots ranging from a buck hunt on the Cooley Ranch in northwest Sonoma County to the Pork and Pinot feast, donated by swine breeders Jube and Sally Begley of Santa Rosa and Sebastopol winegrowers Domenic and Lynda Carinalli. There were sports packages, a cave dinner at Kunde Family Estate Winery, a Western-style barbecue at the Dutton Ranch, a biplane ride over Carneros and many more items that reflected the Wine Country lifestyle. Brent Farris, the golden-tongued radio voice of KZST, was the night’s master of ceremonies,

keeping up a lively banter to inform and entertain guests before, during and after the live auction. Auctioneer Rex Williams of Williams Ranch in Sebastopol used his quick wit and country humor to coax bids from the generous crowd, with overall prices much higher this year than in 2013. Auction items like a stainless steel grape gondola donated by the Guadagni Bros in Dry Creek Valley , clearly indicates that this is an event where both donors and guests are closely connected to the land and the county’s annual $3 billion agriculture industry. Marilee Carli of Guerneville was the winner of the trip raffle, which offered an option for fabulous vacations to Italy, Ireland or Fiji. Carli knew where she wanted to go even before she won the trip. She is going to Fiji. Matt Stornetta, a member of a longtime ranching family in the Sonoma Valley, won the drawing for the $6,500 diamond offered by ER Sawyer Jewelers in Santa Rosa. Many of the people who come together to orchestrate the crab feed or donate wine, food and auction items are dedicated to preserving Sonoma County’s farmland and agricultural industry. The volunteers who help stage the event also believe a strong and viable agricultural industry is essential to maintaining what many consider the heart and soul of Sonoma County. The Crab and Wine Fest is a totally homegrown event orchestrated by the directors and staff of Sonoma County Farm Bureau with the assistance of an army of dedicated volunteers. Many of the groups benefiting from Farm Bureau’s agriculture education program pitch in to help set up tables, decorate and serve the meal. Joining the work crew were volunteers from the Santa Rosa Junior College Ag Ambassadors, FFA and 4-H. Members of the Piner High School football team used their muscle to tear-down tables and clean up. Tim Tesconi, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, said Farm Bureau is committed to providing agricultural education to youth, adults and community leaders so they can better understand the unique aspects of farming, no matter if it’s dairy cows, horses or vineyards. He said the proceeds from the crab fest are used to bring agriculture to those who would otherwise not benefit from a farm experience. One of Farm Bureau’s major educational efforts is Ag Days, which have been held for 33 years to bring a taste of farm life to city kids. Last year more 4,0000 school children came to the Sonoma County Fairgrounds for Ag Days, which includes livestock displays, a hay maze, horsemanship demonstrations and samples of Sonoma County farm products like apples, cheese and milk. This year’s Ag Days are March 25-26. Farm Bureau also uses the proceeds from the crab fest to support farm youth organizations like the SRJC Ag Ambassadors, FFA and 4-H and to fund agricultural scholarships. Last year, the Farm Bureau Foundation awarded more than $60,000 in scholarships to students studying agriculture at college. Plans are already underway for next year’s event, which will be held the first Saturday night of February. 192

4-H and FFA members served more than two tons of crab to the more than 1,300 guests at Sonoma County Farm Bureauâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Great Sonoma Crab and Wine Fest on Feb. 1 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. Photo by Brenda Hawkes 193

April 2014

Ag Days Brings the Farm to more than 4,000 School Kids Sonoma County Farm Bureau sponsors 34th annual Ag Days at the Fairgrounds

livia Williams, who takes to farming like some kids take to mall shopping, was among the 4-H’ers bringing animals to Ag Days, taking time from her school day to talk to city kids about the ways of life on Sonoma County farms and ranches. “I love talking about what we do on our ranches. By being at Ag Days I can help educate kids who don’t know anything about agriculture in Sonoma County,” said Olivia, 11, the daughter of ranchers Rex and Kerry Williams of Williams Ranches in Sebastopol. The Williams produce lamb, wool and hay and operate a sheep dairy in west Sonoma County. Like her parents, Olivia believes it’s important that the next generation of consumers – and voters – know the value of agriculture to Sonoma County and appreciate the local food produced on fields and farms. There were more than 4,000 school kids attending Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Ag Days held on March 25 and 26 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. The annual spring event brings the farm – and ranchers like Olivia and her family – to the city to provide urban kids a taste of the farm life that is beyond the reach of most urban families today. It’s a chance for the kids to unplug for a low-tech experience like cuddling a baby goat or tickling the ears of a piglet. In addition to the farm animals, Ag Days offers exhibits on environmental and farm-related products as well as demonstrations ranging from cattle roping to butter making and sheep shearing to horse grooming. Ag Days is sponsored by Farm Bureau and the Sonoma County Fair to educate the next generation of consumers about the source of their food and the value of a thriving farming industry to the county’s landscape and economy. Volunteers like Bob Higham, a director of the Sonoma County Fair, help with two day event. “Ag Days was wonderfully organized and staffed. Joy abounded,” said Higham. “What the agriculture community gives to the wider community is amazing. I am so grateful to be on the Fair Board because of the entry it gives me to rub shoulders with such admirable people.” “Please touch” was the order of the day at Ag Days. There were baby chicks and ducklings from Western Farm Center and baby goats from the Thompson Family. The Crawford family brought a litter of piglets, always the main attraction at Ag Days. “I just love seeing the kids’ faces when they touch the soft hair on the little pigs or hear them squeal,” said Davis Crawford, 19, a student at Santa Rosa Junior College. The children were able to wander through a hay maze created by rancher Norm Yenni of Sonoma and stare down shaggy Scottish Highland heifers from Petaluma’s Spring Hill Ranch & Vineyard, owned by Chris and Karen London. The students watched cunning sheep dogs herd ducks and marveled at the dexterity of sheep shearer Judd Redden as he used electric shears to fleece woolly sheep. They petted chickens and ran their fingers through pungent compost. “It’s important for all of us in agriculture to educate young people about farm life

and what it takes to grow the food that we all eat as consumers,” said Santa Rosa rancher Kathy Reese, a director of Sonoma County Farm Bureau and chairman of Farm Bureau’s Agriculture Education Committee. Teachers said Ag Days gives students the foundation to begin the educational journey to understand where their food comes from and the purpose of the farmland they see from the car on Sunday drives. At Ag Days, they can actually touch the old brown cow that they know from their storybooks. They hear baby pigs squeal and smell what comes from the backend of a kid goat. Teachers say students who attend Ag Days are able to see and make connections, viewing the entire process of food production. For example, students can view calves, see cows, learn about how “mammals make milk”, learn about by-products and then taste milk and cheese. In addition to the exhibits and demonstrations, the kids were able to taste the best of Sonoma County. Kids munched on apples from Andy’s Produce in Sebastopol, cheese from Spring Hill Jersey Cheese, Clover milk and apple juice from Manzana Apple Products in Sebastopol. They also enjoyed mandarins, carrots and honey sticks. Sonoma County’s nationally known Twin Chefs, 12-year-olds Audrey and Lilly Andrews of Sonoma were at Ag Days demonstrating how to make fresh and healthy pasta in about the same it takes to open and warm a can of Spaghetti-O’s. “We love to be at Ag Days meeting other kids who also want to learn about cooking and using food grown in Sonoma County,” said Audrey. Over the last 34 years, Ag Days has grown into a major event to represent the many facets of Sonoma County agriculture. Many agriculture-related groups, businesses and individuals support the event. In addition to the Ag Days exhibits and demonstrations, Farm Bureau sponsors a number of contests aimed at making children think about the source of their food and fiber. This year the Ag Days contests were based on the theme “Our Food, Our Farms.” Hundreds of school children entered the contests, which included categories for the best bookmark, poster, essay, scarecrow, mural, farm photograph, farm video and decorated grocery bag. The winners in the various contests were recognized at Farm Bureau’s Ag Days Awards Dinner on March 25. There were more than 800 guests at the dinner. Kenn Cunningham, an executive with Exchange Bank, served as the emcee for the awards program. Awards were presented by Dr. Steven Herrington, superintendent of the Sonoma County Office of Education, Sonoma County Sheriff Steve Freitas, Agricultural Commissioner Tony Linegar and Dairy Princess Francesca Gambonini of Petaluma.

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Lincoln Elementary School first graders Naida Campos, right, and Jasmin Elizarraraz pet a duckling at Ag Days, which is sponsored by Sonoma County Farm Bureau and the Sonoma County Fair. There were more than 4,000 kids attending the two-day event at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. Photo by Alvin Jornada 195

April 2014

Fields of Dreams O

ne of the most rewarding aspects of my job at Sonoma County Farm Bureau over the last eight years has been administering – and growing - the agriculture scholarship program for the Farm Bureau Foundation. Each spring we have the pleasure of interviewing bright, young people with a passion for agriculture and a determination to succeed. These students, who might come from a ranch in Petaluma or a condo in Santa Rosa, have lofty goals as they go off to Cal Poly or Cornell University to study dairy science or agriculture economics, viticulture or agricultural engineering. The scholarship selection panel spends two days interviewing more than 30 applicants for the Farm Bureau Foundation scholarships, which this year will total more than $65,000. Like me, the other judges always feel inspired by these young people as they share their dreams and aspirations for careers in agriculture. Their enthusiasm is contagious. After hours and hours of interviews, the judges take a deep breath and conclude the world is okay and, yes, indeed, agriculture will be in good hands with this new crop of energetic leaders. From Farm Bureau’s standpoint, it’s very rewarding to watch these young people launch into meaningful agricultural careers after receiving scholarships administered by the Farm Bureau Foundation. Some students, like Mandy Brazil of Petaluma, have been recipients of scholarships all four years of college, saying the support is crucial to completing their education. Mandy graduated from Cal Poly last year with a degree in agricultural communications. She soon landed a job as program services coordinator with Accelerated Genetics, headquartered in Wisconsin. On a global scale, she manages the dairy cattle mating program while offering support to the company’s genetic consultants. “I am so grateful for all of the scholarship assistance and encouragement from the Farm Bureau Foundation in pursuing my agricultural communications degree from Cal Poly,” said Mandy. “To have the support of an entire organization truly makes you feel like your goals are not only achievable, but the goals have potential to make an impact.” She added: “From personal experiences and observations from my classmates, I am a firm believer in the difference community support can have on educational ambition.” Mandy said it’s an exciting time to be involved in agriculture and she is relishing every new day in her job. “Exciting technologies and game-changing research is evolving every day,” she said. “The powerful need for enthusiastic young agriculturalists is very much a reality. I am so appreciative for the investment the Farm Bureau Foundation is making towards inspiring passionate and eager students in the field of agriculture.” Passionate and eager are words that perfectly describe another Farm Bureau Foundation scholarship recipient, Joseph Stefenoni of Sebastopol. Joseph is a student at Oklahoma State University, majoring in agricultural economics and minoring in environmental economics, politics and policy. He will graduate from OSU in May of 2015. His dream is to become an agricultural lobbyist, walking the halls of power to advocate for farmers. Joseph has applied for two summer internships: one with Congressman Frank D. Lucas, chairman of the House Committee on Agriculture and the other with the American Farm Bureau Federation. “Both internships would have me working in agriculture policy, which is what I hope

to do after graduation,” said Joseph. “The scholarships I received have enabled me to study at a top-tier institution, something I couldn’t have afforded without the generosity of groups like the Farm Bureau Foundation.” And the Farm Bureau Foundation couldn’t do it without the generosity of its extraordinary donors.

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May 2014

A Legendary Life, Well Lived G

eorge Greeott, a Healdsburg rancher and inveterate tinkerer, proudly held the title of oldest and longest continuing member of Sonoma County Farm until his death last month at 103. He was just weeks shy of his 104th birthday when he died in his sleep on April 7 at the Chalk Hill Road ranch where he had lived and worked since 1928. The ranch was George’s strength and salvation. He spent his life caring for it and respecting it. He held the Old World philosophy that if you take care of the land, it takes care of you. It was so fitting – and profoundly fair - that he died on the land he loved. A farmer and gentleman blessed with native intelligence and an abiding spirit, George was proud to be a member of Farm Bureau and Farm Bureau was doubly proud to have him in its membership ranks. He epitomized the American Farmer, hard-working, fiercely independent, community-minded and always willing to help his neighbor. Spry as a Bantam rooster into his 90’s and beyond the century mark, he also taught others what it’s like to age with grace and dignity. George was quick to rattle off the benefits of belonging to a grassroots agriculture organization like Farm Bureau, which works on many fronts to protect farmers’ rights while preserving the land they farm. George said he couldn’t imagine why anyone who farmed or owned rural property would not be a member of Farm Bureau, which embraces the cooperative spirit of farmers working together to deal with common issues. “I joined Sonoma County Farm Bureau in 1948 and have been a proud, dues-paying member ever since,” George said in an interview several years ago. “Throughout the years, Farm Bureau has always been there to represent me and the interests of other farmers and ranchers in Sonoma County. It’s the place to go when we have an issue, a problem to solve.” George knew firsthand how those agricultural issues changed over the decades as farming changed and, then, as rapid urban growth transformed the agricultural landscape of Sonoma County. Prune orchards and hay fields were replaced with housing subdivisions and shopping malls. Instead of having farmers for neighbors, it was a banker, teacher or retail sales clerk. With urban neighbors, came new problems and more issues, leading to more rules and regulations. George’s death marks the close of a colorful chapter in the history of Sonoma County agriculture and the old ways of doing things. He was a living link to the past, growing up in the days when horses pulled plows and cows were milked by hand. As a grammar school kid, he shook the hand of famed horticulturist Luther Burbank and remembers picking prunes for Col. Mark McDonald, the dynamic businessman and entrepreneur who built Santa Rosa’s water and street car systems and the McDonald Mansion, the iconic manse considered the city’s premiere residence. Greeott was a Sonoma County institution – a farmer, inventor, wood carver, country artist, philanthropist and champion horseshoe pitcher. He was a husband, father, grandfather and friend to many. He loved nature, enjoyed people and held dear Sonoma County’s rich history and agricultural heritage. He didn’t gamble or golf, instead, spending thousands of hours crafting fanciful wood and iron spike sculptures praised as folk art. He invented a fence wire tightening tool that was marketed throughout the country. “Greeott’s Grabber” became a mainstay on many

farms and ranches. Most of his wood work and metal sculptures were done by hand, the old-fashioned way. He collected farm tools and historical memorabilia, like Indian arrowheads and mortars and pestles he found when plowing his land. He held a deep reverence for these unearthed Indian artifacts, keeping them on display in the barn-museum behind his house. George was a patron of the Windsor Historical Museum, which houses some of his collection and, now following his death, will receive the bulk of the collection. Along with it, George pledged $100,000 to the museum to showcase his historical treasurers. George, a rural philosopher and respected earth elder, was considered the sage of the Chalk Hill Valley, the agricultural enclave between Windsor and Healdsburg. It’s on this ranch that he started farming in 1928. It was one of the many ranches owned by his father, John Greeott, an Italian immigrant who prospered in America. The family name is actually Griotti but when Greeott’s father became a naturalized citizen the name was Anglicized to Greeott. George worked and lived on the Chalk Hill Road ranch for 86 years, growing grapes and fruit crops for decades before semi-retiring. “I was actually a fruit grower for 50 years,” George said in our interview. His eyes would twinkle when he told a story. “I like to tell my friends, just for fun, that I was a PGA member for 50 years too. I actually was, but I have never in my life swung a golf club. I raised Prunes, Grapes and Apples, the PGA.” That was the kind of humor and good cheer that made George Greeott a beloved figure in Sonoma County where he will be fondly remembered for his creative genius, oldfashioned farming know-how, genuine decency and generosity. George was extraordinary and one-of-a-kind. Farm Bureau is privileged to have had him as a member for 66 years.

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May 2014

Fred & Nancy Cline, Conservatives & Conservationists Clines, recipients of Farm Bureau’s Luther Burbank Conservation Award, will be honored at the celebration on July 17 red and Nancy Cline, owners of a far-flung agricultural and hospitality empire including Cline Cellars and Jacuzzi Family Vineyards in Sonoma, are conservative in their politics as well as the way they tread on the thousands of acres of land they own in Sonoma, Contra Costa and Tehama counties. The Clines are dedicated conservationists prudent in preserving natural resources on their land while working and respecting Mother Nature - in other words - walking softly on their ground, which is farmed in a way they describe as “beyond organic.” They disdain chemical-based pesticides and synthetic fertilizers in their vineyards and olive groves and have used crushed rock and minerals to restore depleted soil in their vineyards and on an old dairy ranch that is home to Green String Farm, a thriving and

verdant organic vegetable farm near the Adobe State Historic Park in Petaluma. Sheep, not herbicides, are used to bring down the weeds and grass in their Sonoma Valley vineyards. They use solar power, have implemented water conservation programs and think “green” in all aspects of their business, embracing a sustainable philosophy, which means using fewer resources while reaping more productivity. The Clines’ conservation ethic and love for their land have earned them Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s 2014 Luther Burbank Conservation Award. The award recognizes the Clines’ deep seated environmental ethic and exemplary stewardship at a time when those values are such an important part of the public pact in Sonoma County. Increasingly, agriculture leaders say for farming to survive and thrive for future generations the urban

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public must better understand what farmers like the Clines are doing to care for their land. The Clines, the parents of seven children, said they are honored to be recognized by the Farm Bureau for farming in a way they believe makes sense for the bottom-line of their business, their land and the natural environment around them. Fred Cline said the word conservative is at the root of conservation, after all, and it’s what guides him in life, politics and farming. He went to UC Davis to study agriculture but embraced the old-fashioned farming philosophy of his maternal grandfather, Valeriano Jacuzzi, one of the seven Jacuzzi brothers who invented the Jacuzzi whirlpool bath. It was an inheritance from Valeriano that launched Fred Cline into winemaking in 1982 on his grandfather’s vineyards in Oakley, Contra Costa County. In 1991 Fred and Nancy relocated the Cline Cellars from Oakley to a 350 acre ranch on Arnold Drive in the Carneros region. Jacuzzi Family Vineyards was later established on land across the road from Cline Cellars. Fred Cline said his grandfather farmed his land in harmony with nature and was mindful to reuse and re-purpose materials he had. It’s a simple approach based on keeping the soil healthy and utilizing recycled materials already on hand. “Like a lot of farmers, I have a diamond pile that I keep on my ranches. A diamond pile is the stuff that can be used over again so we aren’t spending money on something new, which conserves resources,” said Fred. He wears many hats running his diverse businesses but considers himself a farmer first. In addition to vineyards and wineries the Clines have gained a reputation for owning and managing elegant destination properties that include hotels in Italy and Nevada and the Dillon Beach Resort on the Marin County Coast. The Clines have 450 employees spread across their various businesses. The Clines said they have been able to expand their holdings in the farming and hospitality industries because of top-notch employees-partners like farming legend Bob Cannard who runs Green String Farm and can coax vegetables to perfection without chemicals. “We have the best employees in the world,” said Nancy Cline. “We treat them well and they treat us well.” Someday, Fred and Nancy expect at least some of their seven children – Megan, Hilary, Ramsey, Emma, Mayme, Elsie and the youngest Henry, 16 – will come back into the family businesses. The Clines also are majority owners of the Olive Press, an olive oil producer and custom olive pressing facility in Glen Ellen. Nancy Cline oversees the facility and directs the pressing and processing of the Clines’ own olive oil, which recently won best of class in the New York International Olive Oil Competition. The Clines had another celebratory family experience last month when daughter Emma, 25, an already recognized literary figure, was awarded the prestigious Plimpton Prize for Fiction at a gala event in New York hosted by the Paris Review magazine. The Clines takes the pursuit of excellence seriously, whether it’s raising their children, making olive oil, crafting premium quality Cline Cellars and Jacuzzi wines, offering luxurious accommodations at their hotels or raising livestock and crops on their 12,000 acre ranch near Red Bluff in Tehama County. The Red Bluff ranch is a diverse agricultural operation that includes cattle, sheep and goats as well as commercial crops that include wine grapes, olives, cherries, peaches and walnuts.

The Clines have a respect for land and nature and believe that farming and environmental protection are not mutually exclusive. “The Clines are true mentors to all of us engaged in agriculture,” said Tito Sasaki, president of the Sonoma County Farm Bureau and the North Bay Agriculture Alliance. “They show us how imagination, courage, action, and above all, care for others, can overcome mounting obstacles. We have seen them go through unbelievably trying experiences with misguided federal agencies which could have destroyed their family. They are tough fighters but they remain most gracious and caring for other people as well as for environment.” As recipients of the Luther Burbank Conservation Award, the Clines will be honored at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land celebration on Thursday, July 17 at the Kendall-Jackson Estate and Gardens in Fulton. Also being honored at Love of the Land is Pasta King Art Ibleto of Cotati, who is a grape grower, winemaker and a driving force for good in Sonoma County. He will be inducted into the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame.

Left: Fred and Nancy Cline at their Green String Farm in Petaluma. The Clines are dedicated farmers and conservationists who will be honored with the Luther Burbank Conservation Award at Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land celebration on July 17. Photos by Steven Knudsen 199

June 2014

Gambonini Family, Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year Gambonini Family, now in its sixth generation, has milked cows in Sonoma County for 120 years

ust consider that for 101 years there has been a Gambonini either milking or overseeing the milking at the family’s 540 acre dairy off Lakeville Highway in Petaluma. And because milking is twice a day, 365 days a year, the clockwork routine each morning and evening amounts to nearly 75,000 trips through the milk parlor. Children were born and older family members died but the milking went on around weddings, graduations and funerals. Cows have to be milked no matter what. It’s the basic and indisputable tenet of dairy farming that is passed from one generation to the next along with the land and cattle. It’s all part of the cow culture in the Sonoma-Marin Dairy Belt where Holstein blood lines and alfalfa hay prices are always prime topics of conversation Today, three generations of the Gambonini family live and work on the family’s organic Gamlake Dairy ranch, which was purchased in 1913 and has continuously produced milk for the regional market. The family includes George and Margaret Gambonini, their son Frank Gambonini and his wife Stacey, both 47, and Frank and Stacey’s three daughters, Frankie, Alex and Sammie. The Gamboninis fit the profile of the modern American farm family – hard-working stewards of their land who uphold the agricultural tradition of community involvement and farm leadership. All three generations of the Gambonini family are being honored as Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year, an award recognizing the rural values and the work ethic the Gamboninis uphold on a daily basis. The family will receive the award at Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land celebration on July 17 at the Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate and Gardens in Fulton. “The Gambonini family truly represents the perseverance and dedication it takes to survive and prosper in agriculture, particularly, the dairy industry. The Gamboninis made the transition to organic milk production in 2007 because they knew it was the best way to assure a higher price for their milk so future generations of the family could continue in the dairy business,” said Tito Sasaki, president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau. Also being honored at Love of the Land are Art Ibleto, the Pasta King, recipient of the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame Award and Fred and Nancy Cline, Sonoma Valley vintners and dedicated conservationists, recipients of the Luther Burbank Conservation Award for their caring ways in managing land and natural resources. The Love of the Land event is open to anyone who wants to join in honoring the Gambonini family, Ibleto and Fred and Nancy Cline while celebrating Sonoma County agriculture and its rich heritage. Frank Gambonini, a fifth generation Gambonini who has dairy farming in his DNA, and his wife Stacey, a city girl from Chicago who is learning the ways of dairy farming, are the current proprietors and resident cow tenders at the Gambonini family’s Gamlake Dairy in the hills north of Lakeville Highway. The couple lives in the main ranch house with their daughters. Oldest daughter, Frankie, is studying dairy science at Cal Poly. Alex and Sammie are students at St. Vincent’s and active in showing their dairy cattle at local fairs as members

of the 4-H. “I took over from my father, who took over from his father, with the father- to- son succession continuing back five generations to Battista Gambonini,” said Frank Gambonini, who returned to the family dairy in 1989 after earning a degree in dairy science at Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo. He knew he wanted to be a dairy farmer since he was a toddler following his father George around the ranch in his little rubber boots, thinking he was a “big time farmer” like his Dad. That childhood perception has become reality as he manages the dayto-day operation of the family dairy. “Dairy ranching is all I ever wanted to do,” he said. “I love the outdoors and the cows.” He said the way-of-life is the tradeoff for the 365-day-a-year work schedule. Margaret Gambonini said like his father and grandfather before him Frank has passion and commitment for dairy farming. “Dairying is a business and a lifestyle that requires you to put your heart and soul into it,” said Margaret Gambonini. Frank’s great, great grandfather Battista Gambonini, who emigrated from Switzerland, arrived in Petaluma in 1868. He found his first job working on the Brown Ranch in Hicks Valley. He worked for other dairy ranchers for nine years before having money to lease his own dairy ranch. He continued leasing ranches until 1908 when he was able to purchase a portion of the LeBaron Ranch near Valley Ford. Battista’s son Silvio Gambonini eventually took over the family dairy, moving the operation to their present 540 acre ranch in 1913. Investments have been made over the years to keep the dairy farming operation economically viable and less labor intensive. In 1989 when Frank returned home from college to work on the dairy, his parents invested in the remodeling of the milking parlor even though milk prices were at one of their cyclical low points. At that time, George and Margaret said if Frank was making the commitment to stay on the farm then he should have a milking barn that is more efficient. They wanted it better for their son than it was for them, part of the family support essential for the transition from generation to generation. In 2007, Frank and Stacey converted to organic milk production, which required many changes in both their thinking and farm management. They milk 250-270 cows and sell their milk to Sierra Organics. Frank and Stacey value being certified organic and are proud of the milk they produce for consumers in the San Francisco Bay Area. Stacey and Frank Gambonini recently celebrated their 20th wedding anniversary. Stacey, who grew up in a large Irish-Catholic family in the Chicago suburbs, said she is always learning about the milk business and the dairy culture that now defines her life. “Sometimes I feel as if I am having an out-of-body experience when I walk into the house and Frank has his face in Hoard’s Dairymen and one of the girls is reading Holstein World,” said Stacey. But, she said, ranch life has instilled character and a work ethic in her daughters, which makes her proud. Stacey doesn’t get involved in milking or artificially inseminating the cows but is focusing 200

Three generations of the Gambonini Family live and work on the Gamlake Dairy, which has been home for 101 years. The Gamboninis, respected pillars of the agricultural community, are being honored as Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year. Family members, left to right, George, Alex, Stacey, Sammie, Frank, Frankie and Margaret Gambonini. Photo by Brenda Hawkes her creativity and organization skills in ranch beautification, which is important to her. She has revamped the yard around the ranch house and landscaped the entrance to the ranch. She is planning a makeover for the farm yard near the milk parlor, barns and corrals. Frank and Stacey are active in agricultural and dairy industry organizations including Farm Bureau, Western United Dairymen and the North Bay Dairy Herd Improvement Association. Frank helps coach the dairy cattle judging team at Petaluma High School, which last year won the national title and the opportunity to compete at an international dairy judging contest in Scotland. Two of his daughters were on the team. Stacey is a member of the North Bay Dairywomen.

The Gambonini’s Gamlake Dairy has been honored twice by the Sonoma County Fair as “Dairy of the Year.” The first time was in 1989 when Frank’s parents George and Margaret Gambonini operated the dairy. Last year, the fair honored Frank and Stacey Gambonini with the Dairy of the Year Award. The award not only recognized their stellar dairy management but their community service and agriculture leadership. “Being recognized by your peers for how you run your dairy is a great honor,” said Frank.

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June 2014

Annual Crop Reports Tell Agriculture’s Story

eing the Ag Nerd that I am, I study – and collect - Sonoma County crop reports like some guys collect baseball cards. The annual reports, going back to 1928, chronicle annual farm production and acreage, providing a wealth of information on my favorite subject – Sonoma County agriculture. The reports are an essential reference for anyone involved or writing about the agriculture industry, revealing the trends that have defined our county’s rich farming heritage for the last century. During my more than 30 years covering agriculture as the farm editor at the Press Democrat, I kept my collection of crop reports in a drawer next to my dictionary and thesaurus. The crop reports, many of them shop worn, had been handed down to me by my farm editor predecessors Mike Pardee and Bob Wells, both legends at the Press Democrat. Studying the crop reports, for example, one can chart the rise and fall of hops, once a leading crop in Sonoma County where fortunes were made and lost in the volatile hop market. Or the pivotal year of 1987 when wine grapes overtook milk as the leading and most valuable agricultural crop in Sonoma County. Wine grapes, the reports show, have continued their meteoric rise in acreage, production and value while milk production has continued to decline. One can also follow the ups and downs of the apple and prune industries and other crops. All is documented in the crop reports, an almanac of Sonoma County agriculture. I mention all this because the 2013 annual Sonoma County Agricultural Crop Report, compiled by Agricultural Commissioner Tony Linegar’s staff, will be presented to the Sonoma County Board of Supervisors on June 10. Sonoma County Farm Bureau is encouraging its members to attend the presentation. Your presence will not only support Agricultural Commissioner Linegar but let county supervisors know that the annual crop

report – and agriculture – are important. The report is an annual reminder that agriculture is a driving force in the county’s economy and that the more than 500,000 acres devoted to agricultural production – the scenic vineyards and cow pastures – define the landscape that attracts visitors from all over the world. We are proud to be stewards of this remarkable part of the county’s working farmscape. Details have not been revealed but the 2013 report is likely to be a record in terms of dollar value for agricultural production. That’s because of the large wine grape crop harvested last fall and the high prices per ton that Sonoma County grapes commanded on the market, a rare but welcome combination that is every farmer’s dream. The value of Sonoma County’s agricultural production will get closer to the $1 billion milestone in 2013. Just consider that the reported value for 2012 was a record $821,345,000, which was a 41 percent increase from 2011, primarily because of a 68 percent increase in wine grape production. This year year’s report will feature a cover photograph and essay championing the value of working landscapes – farms, ranches and vineyards – that bring together the production of agricultural commodities with the delivery of valuable ecosystem services. It’s an important message that farming and environmental protection are not mutually exclusive. That message is particularly important at a time when agriculture under attack on so many fronts. We hope to see you on June 10 to celebrate agriculture and its place as the centerpiece of Sonoma County’s working landscape. 202

July 2014

It’s a Fair Summer M

ost kids splash into summer in the cool waters of the neighborhood pool. Out on the fair circuit, 4-H and FFA kids are plunging into their own summer ritual where much of the wading is done through straw and manure. The long summer fair season was officially launched last week at the Sonoma-Marin Fair in Petaluma where farm youth busily clipped, polished and fluffed their livestock for the show rings. Barns become beauty parlors where pigs, cows and sheep get a hip and happening make-over to catch the judge’s eye. Between stints in the wash racks, the young ranchers shovel the muck and manure that seems to pile faster than you can say grand champion. The North Coast fair circuit continues this week with the Marin County Fair, July 2-6, in San Rafael and the Napa County Fair in Calistoga on July 4, followed by the Sonoma County Fair which opens July 24 and runs through Aug. 10. The California fair season stretches through September and into October, celebrating the state’s agricultural abundance while showcasing skills and talents ranging from pig raising to pickle making and biscuit baking to cow milking. Fairs are not only good-old fashioned fun but educational, community-building gatherings that provide a respite from the high-tech, computerized world we live in. These days it’s fashionable to dismiss fairs as irrelevant relics of the past, quaint anachronisms that harken to simpler times when most people were farmers or closely linked to farmers. Now less 2 percent of the population is involved in farming, which is precisely the reason we need fairs more than ever. Fairs educate consumers about local food production while giving urban toddlers their first, up-close-and-personal encounter with a Jersey calf or Bantam hen. These are experiences that kids once enjoyed while visiting Grandma’s farm on a Sunday afternoon. But those opportunities vanished long ago when Granny subdivided the family farm and moved to a condo in Walnut Creek. Fairs serve a vital purpose by connecting the people who eat food with those who produce it. Fairs have another important function: they are where young ranchers, wearing their gang colors of green and white (4-H) or blue and corn yellow (FFA) , are involved in the serious learning of feeding the world. Fairs are a training ground for these 4-H and FFA members. Sure, most will not go into production agriculture but many are very likely to find their way to an agricultural field like veterinary medicine or food science. We need them all to feed the billions of hungry mouths that will be joining the earthly party in the decades ahead. Fairs become a summer camp for these ag-minded kids who bond while fluffing straw or helping a little 4-H’er move an obstinate hog. It’s where many kids have their “Aha moment” and realize, yes, they want to make agriculture their career. In many ways, fairs, especially the Sonoma County Fair, serve as our community’s town square, bringing everyone together for a few weeks during high summer to celebrate all that makes our county such a special agricultural region. Amid the smell of corn dogs and straw and the sounds of bleating lambs and carnival barkers, it’s likely you will see old friends and learn something new about Sonoma County and its thriving farm industry.

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July 2014

Art Ibleto, Sonoma County’s Goodwill Ambassador Longtime farmer, pasta purveyor and philanthropist inducted into Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame Madison Avenue marketing firm couldn’t have created someone like Sonoma County’s Art Ibleto, a genuine, bigger-than-life character who has been warming hearts and stretching stomachs for 50 years as the much beloved Pasta King. But Art is much more. He’s a farmer, meat cutter, grape grower, winemaker and the driving force for good in his adopted home of Sonoma County. Over the last five years alone, Art’s charitable pasta feeds have raised more than $500,000 for good causes, ranging from the Healdsburg animal shelter to surviving victims of a fiery Highway 101 crash. Art will be 88 years old on Oct. 2 but has no plans to stop dishing up his pasta and doing the charitable outreach he believes he is destined to do. “The Good Lord is keeping me on earth so I can keep making pasta and helping others where there is a need,” said Art. “After all, I can’t cook pasta in heaven.” Art’s remarkable agricultural legacy and his many community contributions have earned him a prominent place in Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame. The annual award recognizes agricultural leaders who have been a guiding force in preserving, protecting and propelling Sonoma County’s $4 billion farming industry. Art follows other legendary leaders like the late Saralee McClelland Kunde who was inducted into the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame last year and Richard Kunde, Saralee’s husband, who was inducted into the Hall of Fame in 2008. Other recipients include Henry Trione, Kip Herzog and Angelo Sangiacomo as well as the late Gene Bendetti, Larry Bertolini and Bob Kunde. “I am honored to follow Saralee, who was my good and dear friend, and all the other men and women who are in the Farm Bureau Hall of Fame,” said Art. Art will be inducted into the Hall of Fame at Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land Celebration on July 17. The event, starting at 5 p.m., will be held at the KendallJackson Wine Estate and Gardens in Fulton. Also being honored at Love of the Land are Fred and Nancy Cline of Cline Cellars in Sonoma, who are receiving the Luther Burbank Conservation Award and the Gambonini dairy family of Petaluma, who are Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Farm Family of the Year. Love of the Land is open to anyone who wants to join in honoring Art Ibleto and the other award recipients while enjoying fine Sonoma County wine and food and the good company of those who work the land. Art has not stopped working since he drifted into Petaluma 65 years ago as a penniless immigrant from war-torn Italy to become one of Sonoma County’s most-beloved and revered citizens. He works seven days a week, confessing he is more likely to be cooking pasta for a charitable cause than attending Catholic Mass on Sunday. “The priest tells me he never sees me in church. I told him I have a deal. I’ll cook for you if you pray for me. It works for both of us,” said Art. For his part, Art likes to say that giving back to others is part of what he considers a bella – beautiful – life. And what better way to bring people together than over food, preferably good Italian food.

“When you give, you receive back twofold,” he said. For the last half century, Art has made healthy peasant food – like penne and polenta – part of Sonoma County’s culinary culture and a mainstay of the local fund-raiser. Art probably gives away as much food as he sells – and he sells tons of spaghetti (pesto or marinara or a combo plate?) at the Sonoma County Fair where his Spaghetti Palace, established 40 years ago, is an institutional landmark. But Art often steps up to offer free pasta, salad and garlic bread at community fund-raisers. Art knows what it’s like to hungry and in need of help because of his experiences as a teenager in Italy during World War II. That experience is at the core of his being, driving a deep motivation to help others and make sure no one goes hungry. During World War II, he became a “Partisan” or freedom fighter against Mussolini’s troops and later Nazi forces. He recounts that one time he had to hide in a hole in the hills above his hometown of Sesta Godano for eight days without food or water. For years he was reluctant to even tell that story because it’s so painful. But he said he is living proof that the human body can survive – just barely – without water for that long. “When I climbed out of the hole my legs were like spaghetti and I could barely walk,” said Art. That was the transforming moment when he decided he would leave Italy and always value the gift of life. “It was a hell,” said Art. “I really believed in freedom and realized I would have to find it in another country.” It took him three years following the end of the war to save enough money to leave Italy and come to America. In 1949 he arrived in Sonoma County where his first job was picking zucchini on the Ghirardelli Ranch in Petaluma. There he met the farmer’s daughter, Vicki Ghirardelli, who eventually became his wife. They’ve been married more than 62 years and have two grown children, Annette and Mark, who both work in the family businesses, and two grandsons, Ryan and Benjamino. After working at Ghirardelli Ranch, Art got a job at Royal Tallow, an animal rendering company in Petaluma. Rendering is not a job for the faint of heart or the weak of stomach. The work involved skinning and quartering rotting carcasses of cows, sheep, horses and other assorted critters and throwing them into giant caldrons to be cooked down for various by-products. “I once was the chief cook for a 90 ton sperm whale,” said Art, explaining his role in getting a dead whale into the rendering pot. The stench of the cooking flesh at Royal was enough to make a grown man vomit. But Art said the pay was good and he was grateful to have a job, even it was one that most people would consider the worst job in the world. “There are no bad jobs as long as you earning money,” said Art. After working and saving, Art and Vicki bought a 10 acre farm near Cotati where they opened a butcher shop and established a Christmas tree farm. Over the years, they acquired more land and investment property. Today their holdings include 50 acres of vineyards, 204

Art Ibleto, the beloved Pasta King, will be inducted into the Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame at the Love of the Land celebration on July 17 at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens in Fulton. Photo by Steven Knudsen mostly pinot noir. The wine grapes are sold to area wineries with some of them used to make wine under Art’s Bella Sonoma label. In 1974 Art established the Spaghetti Palace at the Sonoma County Fair, a move that would make him an iconic figure – the Pasta King - in Sonoma County. The success of the Spaghetti Palace provided the impetus to start a retail store on the Cotati property. The store offers the flavorful Italian food – sauces, lasagna, polenta, minestrone and ravioli – that has made Art famous. He takes his pasta and polenta on the road, catering events throughout Northern California and is a regular at farmers markets. The Farm Bureau Hall of Fame Award is just one of the many honors and accolades that Art has received for his community involvement and civic spirit. Two years ago the Harvest Fair gave him its “Lifetime Contribution to Sonoma County Agriculture Award. The cities of Santa Rosa and Rohnert Park have named him an honorary citizen. He has received

the Western Fairs Association Blue Ribbon Award for his service to the fair industry and a commendation from the Volunteer Center of America. The love and admiration that the community has for the Pasta King was evident in 2006 when 1,000 people showed up for his 80th birthday party at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds. He, of course, brought the pasta and polenta. When asked if he would do anything differently in his life if he had the chance to start over again, he is quick to respond. “I wouldn’t change anything. It was not easy but I will be 88 and I am still working seven days a week and love what I do. What could be better than that?”

205

August 2014

Barn Raising for Saralee and Richard L

ong before she was diagnosed with the cancer that would take her life, Saralee McClelland Kunde envisioned a pavilion at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds where urban fairgoers could get a taste of farm life. It would be a place to educate city folks about her consuming passion: agriculture. Saralee was an agricultural visionary who loved fairs and farm festivals even more than the big floppy garden hats that would become her fashion symbol. She knew the value of fairs to reach, teach and inspire. She also knew that if agriculture is to survive in Sonoma County, the people who live in cities and suburbs must understand and appreciate the farms, vineyards and orchards that unfold on the urban edge. “Farming is not only Sonoma County’s rich heritage, but its identity,” Saralee said many times as she raised funds and awareness for farming, fairs and farm youth. Several years ago as a director of the Sonoma County Fair, Saralee led efforts to establish the Sonoma County Fair Foundation, a charitable trust that could raise and collect money to build an agriculture education facility. Although Saralee died way too young and before she could personally begin the fund raising campaign to build the barn, her vision will soon be realized. The Sonoma County Fair and the Fair Foundation, backed by Saralee’s army of friends, family and supporters, have launched a $1.8 million campaign to finance what will be called Saralee and Richard’s Barn. The building is a tribute to the first couple of Sonoma County agriculture who did more than anyone else in the last 50 years to transform Sonoma County into California’s premier food and region. As Brent Farris of KZST Radio said at Farm Bureau’s Love of the Land celebration, “Saralee changed the face of Sonoma County agriculture.” And indeed she did. American AgCredit, a lending agency that is the financial angel to so many agriculture related programs, immediately pledged $100,000 towards the barn. Donations, big and small, will make this a community barn raising in the spirit of Saralee. Saralee and Richard’s Barn will be a 12,000 foot structure located on the site of what is now the sheep barn, becoming the focal centerpiece of the fairgrounds. Its prominent location on the fairgrounds will send the message that agriculture is important to Sonoma County. During the three-week fair, Saralee and Richard’s Barn will house a greatly expanded Sweet Lil’s Farmery, an agricultural exhibit now located in the Lyttle Cow Palace. Sweet Lil’s Farmery, named for Saralee’s late mother Lillian McClelland, started with funding by Saralee and Richard Kunde. It was the Kundes’ goal to give urban kids and their parents an opportunity to learn more about farming through sensory, hands-on experiences including milking a cow, watching chicks hatch or smelling fresh corn stalks. In the new barn, Sweet Lil’s will be greatly expanded to introduce more young people to the farm life that Saralee believed is the heart and soul of her beloved Sonoma County. The building will also offer year around opportunities for agricultural education including Farm Bureau’s Ag Days, which attracts more than 5,000 kids each spring. Saralee was all about building bridges between the urban and rural sectors. Saralee and Richard’s Barn will be a venue that brings the city and country together to celebrate Sonoma County’s thriving agriculture industry. 206

September 2014

Big-Time, Part-Time Farmers byways, often during clogged commuter traffic, to sell their produce at farmers markets or the high end restaurants that, often, proudly put the farmer’s name on the menu. It doesn’t seem right that people who work so hard growing our food can’t earn enough from farming so they don’t have to hold down a job – or two - in town. But welcome to farming. In an opinion piece in the New York Times, headlined “Don’t Let Your Children Grow Up to be Farmers,” East Coast farmer Bren Smith laments that the foodie movement is, ironically, “missing the perspectives of the people doing the actual work of growing food.” “The dirty secret of the food movement is that the much-celebrated small-scale farmer isn’t making a living. After the tools are put away, we head out to second and third jobs to keep our farms afloat,” Smith writes in his piece published on Aug. 10. Smith calls for our nation’s big-time, small scale farmers to unite and organize as in the farm movements of generations past to “shape a vision of a new food economy that ensures that growing good food also means making a good living.” Amen to that.

ex Williams, one of Sonoma County’s leading livestock ranchers, likes to say that his day job as the maintenance supervisor at Santa Rosa’s St. Francis Winery supports his sheep ranching habit. Rex and wife Kerry run more than 300 head of sheep and farm hay and silage crops on land that is owned and leased in western Sonoma County. They have even launched a sheep dairy to produce milk for high end cheese. They work hard seven days a week and forego lots of life’s comforts to be real deal ranchers. The only trips they take are to the weekly farmers markets where they sell their Williams Ranches lamb. But, like thousands of other farmers across the United States, Rex and Kerry depend on an off-farm job to provide added cash flow and benefits, like health insurance, for their family. The Williams have two children Wyatt, who is in college, and Olivia, who is 11 and eagerly following her parents’ path in agriculture. The Williams fit the profile of today’s American farmer. Over the last decade, according to the USDA, non-farm income has averaged 86 percent of total U.S. farm household income. The numbers show that farm families are not earning a living wage on the farm despite the growing movement that celebrates good, locally grown food and the farmers who produce it. Many farmers are forced to work in construction, hospitals, wineries, education or the local Wal-Mart to make ends meet, save enough money to put their kids through college or have a retirement nest egg. Like Rex Williams, many dream of being a full-time farmer but can’t afford it, at least not yet. “I leave after an eight hour shift at the winery, go home and start another eight-hour shift with the sheep. But if you love what you do, it’s not work,” said Rex, who spends weekends in barns and pastures rather than a golf course. “If we didn’t absolutely love what we do, it would be stupid because of the hours we spend doing this.” Kerry, the full-time rancher in the family, says of their ranch life, “It’s 24-7, with no vacations.” A recent report by the USDA Economic Research Service concludes that most American farm families need outside income to keep working on the farms that produce the food and fiber that feeds and clothes Americans and much of the world. Over the decades, non-farm income has continuously contributed a larger and larger portion of total US farm household income, increasing from about 40 percent in the 1960’s to as high as 95 percent in the early 2000s. In 2012, it was about 80 percent nationwide, disturbing indeed disturbing considering the hard work, risks and vagaries of farming. These statistics are not surprising to the many small-scale and part-time farmers in Sonoma County who are working overtime to produce the heirloom tomatoes, gorgeous greens, artisan cheeses and free range eggs that arrive at the dozens of farmers markets held throughout the county. Or the fruits, veggies and herbs packed in CSA boxes for distribution to weekly subscribers who like their food fresh and local. Many of these small scale farmers have day or night jobs, part-time or full-time, so they can farm a patch of ground that yields the specialty crops that make Sonoma County such a bountiful and diversified agricultural region, enhancing the county’s reputation as an agricultural Eden. The urge to grow and nurture something from the ground is what keeps these dedicated farmers working long hours and then traveling congested highways and 207

October 2014

The Farmer’s Friend I

f it’s any comfort to drought-weary ranchers in Sonoma and Marin counties, the 2015 Old Farmer’s Almanac is predicting that winter rainfall will be above normal in Northern California. That’s hallelujah news considering that a few weeks ago a joint study by Cornell University, the University of Arizona and the U.S. Geological Study scared the living daylights out us when it concluded there is a 50 percent chance of a “mega-drought” gripping the Southwest for the next 30 years. Not to mention an 80 percent chance that we are in the throes of a 10 year-drought like the 1930s Dust Bowl. But we all know that weather forecasts beyond seven days are about as accurate as the gypsy fortune teller at the Sonoma County Fair. Long range forecasts are based on mathematical models and prevalent historical weather patterns. If there is one thing we know, the earth’s atmosphere is vast and unpredictable with constant, on-going changes that can really blow up those neat computer models. Let’s just hope the Old Farmer’s Almanac is right and the scientists warning of another Dust Bowl are just deliriously confused by all that computer-driven data. It’s hard to imagine the consequences to agriculture, people, flora and fauna if the drought continues next year and beyond. So thank you Old Farmer’s Almanac, for providing a ray of hope to counterbalance the scary government report, which left us wondering how California’s annual $40 billion plus agricultural industry could survive such a Biblical drought if indeed it happens. For more than 200 years, the Old Farmer’s Almanac, that folksy purveyor of household hints and farming tidbits, has been making fearless weather forecasts, which is the main reason most people buy it. But stuffed between the weather predictions and ads for skin ointments and bean shellers, readers will find trends for 2015, like urban farmers renting lawn space to grow crops and the prospect of eating hamburgers concocted from laboratory grown meat. It’s worth the $9.95 price of admission to read the recipes, garner health and beauty tips, and glean old- fashioned but practical information. The publisher of the Old Farmer’s Almanac claims its weather forecasts are 80 percent right on target. Seventy pages of this year’s 260 page Almanac focus on weather forecasts, meteorological reports, solar and lunar eclipses, and other heavenly bodies. The weather predictions are based on founder Robert B. Thomas’ “secret formula.” Thomas believed that weather is influenced by the magnetic storms on the Sun, known as “sunspots.” Over the centuries, Thomas’ secret formula has been refined by modern science and techniques. Today, the Almanac predicts weather by “comparing solar patterns and historical weather conditions with current solar activity,” according to the “How We Predict the Weather” introduction. “Our forecasts emphasize temperature and precipitation deviations from averages or normal. These are based on 30-year statistical averages prepared by government meteorological agencies and updated every 10 years.” It looks like the Almanac’s official weather forecaster Caleb Weatherbee (a pseudonym, of course) is using some of the same government statistics as other forecasters. Maybe it’s Thomas’ “secret formula” added to the mix that results in the forecast for above normal rainfall when others are warning of a prolonged drought. No matter. Please just let it rain. In buckets. 208

November 2014

Trail to Bountiful T

he land beckons during autumn, the season many consider the most habitable of the year. It’s a time of rejuvenation and ambiance in fields and vineyards, and also around hearth and home where thoughts turn to holiday meals and family gatherings. Thanksgiving more than any other holiday sparks a nostalgic twinge for a trip over the river and through the countryside to gaze at vineyards the color of Italian terracotta or buy a bushel of heirloom apples from the multi-generational Walker family in Graton. Maybe we are lured to the land because Thanksgiving is centered on food, family traditions and the agricultural abundance that truly surrounds us in Sonoma County. It speaks to the incredible diversity of Sonoma County agriculture that all of the main ingredients for the traditional Thanksgiving feast – except for the cranberries and bread for the stuffing – are grown on our county farms. Everything from apples to turkeys, potatoes to pumpkins, parsnips to Jana McClelland’s Organic European style butter, can be gathered along the county back roads or at one of the farmers’ markets held nearly every day somewhere in Sonoma County. Even those opting for the unconventional Thanksgiving meal can glean what they need from local producers. Asian pears, rabbit or duck? It’s down on the farm or at the farmers’ markets. And even better, the Thanksgiving fare can be purchased directly from the farmers who produce it, colorful folks like Beagle Brodsky who oversees flocks of the famed Willie Bird Turkeys or Larry Peter who grows perfect potatoes in Petaluma. But, instead of wandering aimlessly along rural back roads in search of the Thanksgiving fixings, grab a Sonoma County Farm Trails map, which will guide you on your pilgrimage for fresh, locally grown food for the holiday table. Oh sure, it will take more time to travel to farms and roadside produce stands than shopping at the supermarket but, after all, this is a real only-in-Sonoma County experience. And whoever said shopping for the Thanksgiving feast should be convenient. Now, that’s the Pilgrim spirit. “Almost all desired ingredients for a fabulous Thanksgiving dinner can be sourced from Farm Trails members: turkeys, potatoes, sweet potatoes, squash, apples, pumpkins, pears, green beans, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, onions, garlic, salad greens, bread, butter, olive oil, herbs, cheeses, ciders and wines,” said Carmen Snyder, the executive director of Sonoma County Farm Trails. She advised visiting Farm Trails’ dynamic live Map & Guide at www.farmtrails.org to locate the farmers and ingredients in your corner of Sonoma County. The Farm Trails Map and Guide lists more than 100 farms, ranches, wineries, farm retail stores and rural restaurants. Farm Trails was founded as a direct marketing organization in 1973 by a handful of Sonoma County producers who were determined to eliminate the middleman so they could survive as family farmers. Farms Trails has come to represent the small family farmer and Sonoma County’s sustainable agricultural diversity. Farm Trails and Sonoma County Farm Bureau work closely together, with some farmers belonging to both organizations. In fact, Farm Bureau, which was founded in 1917 as a grassroots organization of farmers for farmers, helped launch Farm Trails in the 1970s to promote direct sales from the farm. Besides Willie Bird, there are a couple of other farms offering fresh turkeys including Open Fence Farm in Petaluma. There’s no shortage of farms growing beans, greens and

potatoes. Oak Hill Farm in Glen Ellen is worth the trip just to shop in the old barn that serves as the retail store and the rustic showcase for produce and seasonal wreaths. Old, historic barns are also the visual centerpieces at Tierra Vegetables on Airport Boulevard in Santa Rosa and Imwalle Gardens at 685 West Third Street in Santa Rosa. Imwalle Gardens, the historic, 128-year old truck farm a mile from downtown Santa Rosa, is a Sonoma Country treasure where generations of county residents have shopped for their daily fruits and veggies. There are more than a dozen rural outposts where you can buy fresh Sonoma County apples and pumpkins, for pies to polish off the Thanksgiving dinner. Walker Apples at 10955 Upp Road, off Graton Road, grows 27 varieties of apples including heirlooms like Arkansas Black and Pink Pearl. Fresh apples and already made apple pies are waiting at Kozlowski Farms at 5566 Gravenstein Highway in Forestville. Homemade apple, pumpkin and pecan pies - as good as Grandma’s - are available at Mom’s Apple Pies where Betty Carr, known to one and all as “Mom,” creates her signature pies. From apple pies to a super Willie Bird Turkey, the Thanksgiving meal awaits along the Farm Trail. Enjoy the trip to bountiful.

209

December 2014

Thank God for the Grapes W

henever I hear someone whine that there are too many vineyards in Sonoma County, I find myself snapping back, “Thank God for the grapes.” It’s something I am saying more and more as vineyards come under attack by uninformed urbanites, misguided county leaders or the newly rural who envision an agricultural diversity reminiscent of Old MacDonald’s Farm. Please note: Old MacDonald went bankrupt years ago and moved to a trailer park in Idaho. It’s not an exaggeration to say that wine grapes saved Sonoma County agriculture, arriving at a time when other crops and farm products were on the decline and farmers were in desperate need of a money-making crop. Development pressure was intense with the real possibility that Sonoma County could become the next San Jose. Today, we should all be reverentially thankful for our county’s 60,000 plus acres of vineyards that drive our economy and provide the scenic landscape that brings visitors from around the world. Those who chant “vineyards, vineyards everywhere” should know that only six percent of Sonoma County’s more than one million acres of land is planted to vines. Just a drop in the old wine barrel. But those 60,000 plus acres of wine grapes account for more than two thirds of Sonoma County’s farm income, a number that multiplies many times when those grapes are turned into wine. The recent harvest was a vivid reminder of the wine industry’s dynamic force and widespread reach in Sonoma County. For weeks and weeks, trucks loaded with grapes trundled through cities and along the freeways to deliver the harvest to wineries. Even those living in suburbia witnessed Wine Country’s fall rite of passage. During the late 1960s when other crops like apples, prunes and pears were in financial decline, wine grapes came along to give dedicated Sonoma County farmers like the late Robert Young and the late Warren Dutton a crop that would make money and keep them on their land. Even good farmers like Young and Dutton, who both became celebrated pioneers in the wine industry, knew they could go broke raising apples and prunes in a glutted market. As much as farmers love what they do, at the end of the day they have to earn a living. We have seen what happens to farmers who failed to adapt to the changing markets. Wine grapes provide the financial model for the modern day version of Old MacDonald’s Farm, a piece of land where a hard-working family dedicated to quality grapes can earn income off 10 or 20 acres. Not so with prunes or pears. Sonoma County would be a different place today if not for wine grapes and the profits they produce, which keeps land in agriculture, provides thousands of jobs and defines our food-and-wine lifestyle. It was visionary wine grape growers who led the effort for strict agricultural zoning to protect Sonoma County’s farmland from the piecemeal subdivisions that thwart real agricultural production. They were protecting their vineyards and what the world now considers a global treasure. And make no mistake, wine grape growing is real dirt-under-the-fingernails agriculture despite those glitz and glamour wine wannabes who think and talk otherwise. Without the vineyards and the strong political will – and, yes, power – of the wine industry, Sonoma County would have been chopped into thousands of rural ranchettes where harried owners, holding full-time jobs in town to pay the mortgage, would tend a few head of

livestock and waves of yellow star thistle. That would not propel the thriving agricultural industry we have today. The wine industry leads the way for other agricultural producers – the artisan cheese makers and specialty crop farmers – who craft the chevre and the perfect peaches that we pair with an Alexander Valley cab or crisp Russian River chardonnay. The wine industry needs the dirt farmers and food artisans – and the foodies need the wine folks – to keep the promise that Sonoma County is California’s premier food and wine region. Joy Sterling, the doyenne of her family’s Iron Horse Vineyards in Sebastopol, likes to say that one word describes Sonoma County: foodandwine. And indeed it does. So a grand toast to the vineyards preserving Sonoma County’s farming heritage in a land that famed plant wizard Luther Burbank described as the chosen spot of all the earth. Thank God for the grapes.

210

January 2015

Thank You Tito S

onoma Valley grape grower Tito Sasaki, a remarkable, one-of-a-kind leader, has completed a whirlwind two-year term as president of Sonoma County Farm Bureau, the county’s largest and most influential agricultural organization. Tito is taking a deep breath after spending the last 730 days being the face, eyes and ears of Farm Bureau, volunteering his time to do what’s right for the organization’s nearly 3,000 members. Tito, who will continue as a director on the Farm Bureau board, is being succeeded by Healdsburg grape grower John Azevedo, whose day job is Director of Grower Relations for Kendall-Jackson Winery, based in Santa Rosa. Azevedo will serve as president for the next two years. Azevedo concedes he has big boots to fill. Since its founding in 1917 as a grassroots organization for the county’s farmers and ranchers, Sonoma County Farm Bureau has had dozens of presidents who take time from their farms and ranches to lead the organization. But few have devoted the time and energy that Tito has given to representing agriculture and defending the rights and livelihoods of farmers and landowners in Sonoma and Marin counties and beyond. Anyone involved in water, energy, land-use issues and agriculture policy knows that Tito has been anywhere and everywhere over the last two years to represent Farm Bureau members. Tito’s keen intelligence, analytical skills and bulls-eye business acumen have served Farm Bureau members well. During his tenure as president, Tito represented Farm Bureau members at hundreds and hundreds of meetings, traveling thousands of miles in his olive green Jeep to be the voice of common sense on issues like water and land use. He is a strong advocate for the rights of property owners and a staunch supporter of our farm youth. As a Sonoma Valley grape grower, scientist and businessman, Tito always brought a reasoned, scientific perspective to issues. He focused on key points, formulated resolutions and then relentlessly fought to implement them. Farm Bureau member Nancy Gates wrote a letter to Farm Bureau directors praising Tito’s dedication and tenacity. “Tito is consistently responsive and communicative, so that Farm Bureau members always know that he hears them and is working for them. He has taken the time to participate at local hearings and continues to provide behind-the-scenes support to local and state participants in the agriculture community,” Gates wrote. Gates and many others praise the incredibly insightful columns Tito has written over the last two years for the Sonoma-Marin Farm News. Gates wrote that Tito’s columns are “thoughtful, well-written and provocative, and often relate local matters to world issues in a compelling way.” Tito’s educational background is fascinating and explains his skills as a thinker, writer and leader in the complex arena related to land use and planning. He holds advance degrees from the Royal College of Art in London and an advanced degree in Ekistics, which is the science of human settlements related to regional and community planning – all with a view to the physical environment. In addition, Tito did post graduate studies at U.C. Berkeley and the Scripps Institute at U.C. San Diego. Truthfully, I believe Tito found grape growing boring so plunged into the politics of farming. He left management of the Sasaki Vineyards to his capable wife Janet so that he could delve into complicated issues and battle increasingly challenging

regulations at the county and state levels. Tito has a mission. He believes that agriculture’s very future is at stake because of growing urban and environmental pressure in the San Francisco Bay Area. Tito has said, “Unless we find a way of peaceful co-existence on every front, but mostly in environmental regulations, we may be forced to surrender.” Tito has spent his presidency making sure we don’t surrender, working 24-7 to keep agriculture strong and viable.

211

February 2015

Going, Going Gone operated the Santa Rosa Livestock Auction Yard, selling the business in 1984. The auction yard, located on Fresno Avenue in southwest Santa Rosa, was an agricultural institution where each Tuesday cows, sheep, horses and goats were bought and sold. It was the best show in town. The Santa Rosa auction yard closed forever in 1985, a victim of the shift in agriculture production, consolidation of the livestock industry and urban development. The yard’s closing dispelled any lingering notion of Santa Rosa’s reputation as a dusty cow town. The Santa Rosa Livestock Auction Yard’s buildings and corrals, abandoned and collapsing, are a reminder of the days when livestock, not wine grapes, was the leading agricultural industry in Sonoma County. Louie received many honors and accolades for his dedication to agriculture and farm youth and his leadership in preserving Sonoma County’s rich farming heritage. In 2003, he was inducted into the Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s Hall of Fame for his contributions to the agricultural industry. He received awards from the Sonoma-Marin Cattlemen’s Association, the Sonoma County Fair, Harvest Fair and Santa Rosa Chamber of Commerce in recognition of all he did for so many years. Many of us thought Louie would be around forever. Even when he was in his early 90’s, Louie climbed on the stand to belt out his sing-song auctioneer’s chant to sell livestock at the fair. Up until old age and infirmity kept him away in recent years, Louie had not missed a fair auction since that day in 1947 when he jumped on a makeshift wooden platform and began taking bids for market animals entered in the fair. It marked the fair’s first junior livestock auction, something that would grow into one of California’s largest and most prestigious junior sales. “Oh, there were only 12 or 15 lambs, a dozen hogs and six or seven steers at that first auction in 1947,” Louie recalled in an interview about the auction’s humble beginnings. Now the 4-H and FFA livestock, which includes poultry, rabbits and meat goats, is paraded into the Sonoma County Fair auction rings by the hundreds, bringing more than $1 million to the young ranchers. Remarkably, towards the end of Louie’s days as a fair auctioneer, he was selling animals raised by the grandchildren of those 4-H and FFA members whose livestock he sold at the fair in the 40’s and 50’s. Louie loved the continuity of the ranching families who showed at the fair: they were maintaining a way-of-life he truly believed worth preserving. He always felt he was doing his small part to keep agriculture part of Sonoma County by encouraging kids in their ranching endeavors. “I like to see the kids get as much money as they can. Some say its’ wrong to pay premium prices because it gives the kids the wrong idea but I say the extra money gives the kids a little go-get-em so they will work harder and do better,” Louie said. He was a Sonoma County Fair exhibitor himself in the 1930’s, showing a string of Jersey cattle as an award winning member of the Tomales FFA. Like many others, the fair was in his blood, part of who he was. The Sonoma County Fair keeps going despite the passing of those who, for many of us, seemed to be the fair. When this year’s fair rolls around July 27 to Aug. 9, I will be looking, as usual, for all the familiar faces while remembering the faces from fairs past.

air auctioneer Louie Ricci, one of Sonoma County’s agricultural icons, died in the last weeks of 2014, adding to last year’s loss of legendary leaders in farming, ranching and the Sonoma County Fair. Louie, a respected judge of man and beast, was a folk hero to those of us who grew up in Sonoma County and spent part of the summer learning lessons for life in the barns and show rings at the Sonoma County Fair. 2014 was indeed a year of sad goodbyes. Sonoma County’s close-knit farm community not only mourned Louie’s passing but also bid farewell to other ag greats like agriculture leader and philanthropist Saralee McClelland Kunde, Windsor rancher-goodwill ambassador Vic Pozzi, Petaluma ag teacher Bill King and Santa Rosa agricultural educator-horticulturist Jim King whose green thumb produced some of the world’s most stellar roses. Also leaving us way before their time were Healdsburg rancher and auctioneer Bruce Campbell, who was the charismatic proprietor of CK Lamb, Santa Rosa’s Tina Finali, the gentle ramrod at the fair’s Farmers Day and Bodega rancher Bruce Hagemann, an exhibitor of prized Herefords during his days as a 4-H and FFA member. There may have been other years over the last 50 when a larger number of revered agriculture leaders and fair stalwarts died within a 365-day period but I can’t recall one. All of these departed leaders, who knew each other as part of the county’s farm and fair fraternity, were part of the intricately woven agricultural fabric of Sonoma County. Their passing puts a tear in that fabric while leaving us to wonder who will come forward to take their place. Louie Ricci had the most longevity on the farm and fair scene, becoming a legend during his lifetime. Louie, who was 97 when he died Dec. 14, was a fixture at the Sonoma County Fair junior livestock auctions for 60 years, selling pigs, lambs and steers raised by three generations of Sonoma and Marin 4-H and FFA members. His face and voice were as familiar – and comforting – as the smell of fluffed straw in the cow barns. Louie grew up on dairies in Bodega Bay and then set out on a career as cattle buyer with Chris Beck, a cattle dealer and cowboy active in the operation of the Sonoma County Fair. Louie learned auctioneering and eventually opened his own auction yard during the heyday of livestock ranching in California. For nearly 40 years, Louie and his wife Claudia, who died two years ago, owned and 212

March 2015

Connecting Kids and Ag F

or those of us who grew up on a farm, it’s hard to imagine that a third grade kid in Sonoma County has never touched the fuzzy hairs on a piglet’s snout or heard the peep of a baby chick. These are experiences essential for any kid, particularly, one living in agriculture rich Sonoma County where farms and ranches shape the working landscape and propel the economy. But these days, urban kids, several generations removed from the farm and living in suburban Santa Rosa or Rohnert Park, have no grounding when it comes to cows and sows. Often, particularly, in the case of minority kids, there is not enough time or money to attend fairs to see the farm animals on display. That’s why Ag Days, an annual spring tradition in Sonoma County, is so important to kids and Sonoma County’s agricultural future. Farm Bureau and the Sonoma County Fair sponsor Ag Days as a way to connect kids to the agricultural industry that unfolds on the urban edge. This year’s Ag Days, the 35th annual, will be held March 17-18 at the fairgrounds. More than 5,000 students, teachers and parents will attend over the two days. The importance and value of Ag Days hits home every year. Two years ago, a third grader thought the Beretta family’s Jersey calf was a baby camel. What? Then, there is the joy of seeing kids interact for the very first time with baby pigs from the Crawford Ranch and chicks and ducklings brought by Western Farm Center. One exuberant third grade student, delirious from the sights, sounds and smells of Ag Days, proclaimed “This is the best day of my life.” He could be a future farmer. Ag Days started 35 years ago when agricultural groups got together to stage a free agricultural event for urban school kids. Even in 1979 it was clear that most families had lost their farm connection and were in desperate need of a crash course in Agriculture 101. The county’s farmers and ranchers, concerned about the shift away from a rural, agrarian society, quickly realized that without a farm-based electorate, agriculture’s future was threatened. The idea of Ag Days is to reach the kids who will one day be voting on issues impacting the county’s farming industry. Voters don’t need a complete understanding of the principles of agriculture but it sure helps if they appreciate the value of farming to Sonoma County. It also helps to meet real farmers and ranchers like dairy rancher Doug Beretta, a fixture at Ag Days for nearly 30 years, or Dick Dilworth, the Geyserville grape grower who brings his Belgian draft horses to Ag Days. “I do it for the kids. Seeing their eyes light up when they see these horses close up makes it all worthwhile for me. Where else are the kids going to see this?” said Dilworth. Indeed, ranchers like Dilworth and Beretta join each year with Farm Bureau, the fair and more than 50 organizations and agricultural business to bring kids a meaningful, positive experience about farms and farmers. As Beretta says, “Ag Days are all about educating and connecting with kids. There are more urban residents than farmers in Sonoma County so agriculture’s future depends on voters who have an understanding and appreciation for the farming industry that keeps land in open space and maintains the rural character that makes Sonoma County. such a special place.” 213

April 2015

Growing Farms and Farmers L

ynn Steindorf Esposti of Healdsburg knows the pitfalls of farming but says the urge to farm is in her DNA, compelling her to grow crops and livestock against all the odds. After all, Lynn’s ancestors have farmed for at least eight generations in Europe, California and here in Sonoma County where she grew up raising hogs as a 4-H Club member in Healdsburg. Farming is something she yearns to do too, even if it’s on a part-time basis, working around her full-time job as a business professional. But like many beginning farmers today, Lynn and her life and business partner Thor Bodtker do not own land, relying on scarce leased land to grow the grain, Hopi blue corn, sheep, pigs, rabbits and chickens that comprise their Stone Village Farms. Lynn and Thor are not alone. There are dozens of other beginning and aspiring farmers seeking land to lease for food crops. The County of Sonoma along with many organizations including Sonoma County Farm Bureau are joining together to link beginning and aspiring farmers with landowners who may be interested in leasing their property. It’s all part of a concerted effort to utilize both public and private land to grow more local food, keeping the promise of Sonoma County’s reputation as California’s premier wine and food region. More than a dozen groups are hosting a workshop called “Growing Our Farms” to explore the challenges – and rewards – of connecting farmers like Lynn and Thor with landowners looking for added income or, perhaps, just the desire to see their land producing crops or livestock. The free workshop is 1 to 5:30 p.m. April 23 at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds’ Showcase Café. “I believe if property owners realized the huge influx of young farmers looking for land to farm there would be more lease agreements and more food being grown here,” said Lynn, who leases multiple private and public properties in Windsor, Santa Rosa and Sebastopol for her farming operations. “These are very exciting times for food and farming. There is a food revolution going on. People want locally grown, healthy food and there are young farmers who want to grow it, not to make a financial killing, but to farm the land in a healthy and sustainable way that respects the environment.” The workshop is being held under the umbrella of the Sonoma County Food System Alliance’s Ag and Natural Resources Team and supported by many agriculture, health and farmland preservation groups and agencies. Speakers at the workshop will include those with expertise in linking land and farmers as well landowners and tenant farmers who have developed successful business relationships. Lynn believes the workshop will create public awareness about getting more farmers on the ground to produce grains, fruits, vegetables, meat, dairy products and eggs that will be sold at farm stands and farmers markets around the county. It’s all closely tied to the consumer movement to buy and eat locally grown food, curbing the tide on imported farm products. “I don’t want to entrust our food supply to China,” said Lynn. “I want my food raised here so I know that it was produced and processed in a sustainable way.” Certainly, words to live and farm by in Sonoma County.

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May 2015

A Salute to Two Ag Heroes I

t’s been a year since David Evans of Marin Sun Farms took over the Rancho slaughterhouse, transforming the closed-down operation into a high-quality slaughter and meat processing plant. Under Evans’ ownership, the old slaughter facility on Petaluma’s northern edge has been revived and refocused. Recently, Marin Sun Farms earned organic certification, a huge boon for the region’s livestock industry, especially, the small-scale producers who are part of the growing field-to-fork movement. For a time it looked bleak at Rancho, that bleakness hauntingly portrayed at the time in a press photograph of vultures ominously roosting in a dead oak tree near the shuttered slaughter house. A federal investigation and massive meat recall had forced Rancho’s former owners to close the gates, most of us thinking never to open again. Sonoma County was faced with the real possibility of forever losing its last major slaughter plant when David Evans rode into town to save the day, preserving a vital link in the food production chain. Evans, a fourth generation member of a coastal Marin ranching family, rolled up his sleeves and went to work to build his business. Evans’ can-do spirit and passion reminds us of when Larry Peter – against all odds – staked it all to buy the historic Petaluma Creamery, preserving it as a milk processor when developers were eying the valuable downtown property for a commercial business complex. Looking back, saving the slaughter facility and milk processing plant were tremendous wins both for Sonoma County agriculture and Petaluma, the historic River Town whose very identity is built on agriculture. It could have easily gone the other way Larry Peter of Petaluma Creamery. but, miraculously, both agricultural landmarks are open and doing very well thank you. David Evans and Larry Peter are super heroes in my ag book. They are men who have staked their lives and financial futures in agricultural businesses essential to the intricate infrastructure of Sonoma County’s thriving food system. We owe them a lot, particularly, as we hear calls for more local food production. Both Evans and Peter are daring, visionary entrepreneurs investing millions of dollars in farming’s future while naysayers write the obituary on Sonoma County agriculture. The truth is we need the feed mills, food processors, equipment and supply companies that are part of the vital support industry for farms and ranches every day. Dairies go out of business if there isn’t a place to sell their milk. Livestock ranchers, working on razor thin margins anyway, can’t afford the time or money to haul steers or hogs to slaughter plants three or four hours away. We’ve all seen what happened to the Sebastopol apple industry when canneries and packing sheds shut down. Just imagine if the slaughter house and creamery had closed. Those two sites would now be growing houses and commercial buildings rather than bustling hubs where milk and livestock are delivered daily from North Coast ranches. Their disappearance would have further diminished the county’s agricultural economy and eroded the farm base. Instead, we have thriving, dynamic businesses that need more milk and livestock. That means more production on farms and ranches. And maybe, even, a few new farms and ranches, always a good thing in my ag book.

David Evans of Marin Sun Farms. 215

June 2015

Goodbye, for now, to Sonoma Compost t was an incredibly sad day for many of us when county officials closed down Sonoma Compost, an iconic, green business that has played a pivotal role in Sonoma County agriculture’s move to sustainable farming. Sonoma County would not be the internationally recognized leader in sustainable agriculture it is today if not for Sonoma Compost. Compost, after all, is the lifeblood of organic and sustainable farming, replenishing the soil by increasing fertility and water holding capacity. Whatever comes next, we are indebted to Sonoma Compost for its pioneering work, starting in 1993, in transforming the county’s vegetative debris into a rich soil additive for our growing number of organic and sustainable farms. For more than 20 years, Sonoma Compost has represented the ultimate in recycling and reuse while serving a vital link in the county’s food production chain. Now, the company is being shut down, maybe forever. Following years of legal battles and allegations of pollution, the Sonoma County Waste Management Agency on May 22 ordered Sonoma Compost to shut down operations by Oct. 1 as part of a legal settlement. The October shut down aims to have operations cease before the traditional rainy season when there could be run-off from the mounds of compost. Sonoma Compost will stop accepting yard waste several months before the October deadline to ensure all materials are processed before the closure. Once that happens, county leaders said the yard debris and green waste – 100,000 tons a year – will be hauled to other facilities outside Sonoma County. Leaders promise that the out-hauling is only temporary but “temporary” could be several years – or more - as the county deals with cumbersome environmental regulations, escalating costs and certain legal challenges as it moves forward to establish a modern composting operation. Looking to the future, Farm Bureau supports a new, environmentally-friendly composting facility at the Central Landfill site on Mecham Road west of Cotati. Farm Bureau is strongly opposed to permanently hauling green waste out of Sonoma County to other composting facilities because of the costs and environmental impacts of trucking materials to Vacaville or Novato and then hauling the compost back to our farms. Farm Bureau president, John Azevedo, said Sonoma County has a responsibility to handle its own green waste within the county, particularly, considering the tremendous demand from our farmers for the valuable compost produced from that waste. Sonoma County supervisor Shirlee Zane said the decision to close Sonoma Compost was not easy but was necessary to move forward and settle the lawsuit brought by neighbors. Zane and other county officials seem determined to keep composting in the county and next month plan to choose a permanent site for a new compost facility, with a price tag of more than $50 million. Sonoma Compost would like to be the business that operates the new facility. The challenge, of course, will be to overcome the many hurdles and naysayers standing in the way of a permanent composting facility at the Central Landfill on Mecham Road. Our job is to work together and remain vigilant, continually reminding county supervisors that an in-county composting operation is the cornerstone of Sonoma County agriculture’s commitment to a sustainable future.

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July 2015

A New Chapter S

onoma County Farm Bureau will soon hire a new Executive Director, likely someone from the next generation eager to lead us into the future. It will be a person who begins each day by Tweeting and posting on Facebook. But it also will be someone rooted in agriculture who knows which end of a cow gets up first or which end of the grapevine goes into the ground. Farm Bureau directors are reviewing applications of young, dynamic agricultural leaders eager to be Farm Bureau’s next Executive Director, guiding the way for this remarkable, 98-year-old organization and the future of Sonoma County agriculture. Once Farm Bureau’s new Executive Director is in place, I will retire to my country property along the Russian River near Healdsburg where I will simultaneously begin attacking four acres of invasive Scotch broom and savoring the memories of an agricultural career spanning 43 years. I have been so incredibly fortunate over the last four decades to have had a front-row seat observing, chronicling and, most recently, helping direct the evolution of Sonoma County agriculture. During my time at Farm Bureau, I have witnessed firsthand the remarkable power of farmers and ranchers working together to preserve and invigorate the working farmlands that define Sonoma County. I will be thinking about all that as I whack away at the pesky Scotch broom. My working career in agriculture started in 1972 when I was hired by executive editor Art Volkerts, a farm boy himself, as the farm editor at The Press Democrat, replacing the legendary Bob Wells. During my 33 years at the newspaper, I was privileged to cover and report on agriculture, fairs and farm youth, becoming part of the close-knit farming community. I got to meet and befriend farmers like Paul Mancini, who grew the sweetest prunes on the planet, and Earle Baum, the blind farmer who milked cows he couldn’t see. I reveled being in the sphere of agricultural visionaries like Rich Kunde, Warren Dutton and Robert Young and, oh, so many, many more. As my late, great friend Saralee McClelland Kunde would say, “Whoopee, what a ride!” Indeed, it was an exciting ride for an Ag Nerd like me who salivated over annual agriculture crop reports and watched the weather well, like a farmer, to determine if frost, rain or heat spells would impact wine grapes or the apple crop. The last half of the 20th Century was a time of rapid change for Sonoma County agriculture: in 1987 wine grapes triumphed over cows and chickens to become the county’s dominant and defining crop. Sonoma County transitioned from a backwater, jug wine producer to its prominent place on the world’s wine stage. There were stories about the last prune farmer and the closure of the last livestock auction yard in Santa Rosa. Land use policies, advanced by wine industry leaders, protected farmland from urbanization, preventing Sonoma County from becoming the dreaded San Jose. Today, Sonoma County is hailed as California’s premier wine and food region, regularly compared with Tuscany or Provence. There, of course, will be challenges ahead but Sonoma County has the land, climate, history, people – and extraordinary will – for agriculture to thrive and prosper for generations to come. Agriculture is Sonoma County’s enduring legacy and its promising future. Period. End of story. 217

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