Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering' "So far as the development of the sport is concerned, it is expanding at such a rate that technical information needs to be presented in a whole new format in order that improved learning strategies and cohesion may be created for paddlers, coaches and anyone interested in furthering their knowledge of the sport; whether isolated on a Pacific Island or in the madness of a busy Westernised Metropolis." Steve West
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BATINI BOOKS Est 1994
Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering' A Kanu Culture publication, published by Batini Books, written and researched by Steve West. Disclaimer - Copyright Issues Apart from any purposes of private study or research as permitted under the copyright act, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, for the purpose of financial gain or resale. Ensure bibliographic reference when extracts are used in associated publications. The management of Batini Books, Kanu Culture, along with the authors and editors of this book, shall not accept responsibility for any injury, loss or damage caused to any person acting or failing to act upon information arising from material in this book, whether or not such injury, loss or damage is caused by any negligent act, or omission, default or breach of duty by Batini Books, Kanu Culture or the authors and or editors, except as provided by law.
Publishing Information Š Steve West, Batini Books 2014 7th Edition Published 2014 by Batini Books Photography Steve and Mandy West unless otherwise indicated. Additional photography, Harvie Allison, Sue Sheard, JOSS, Chris O'Kieffe. www.kanuculture.com Content for this manual derived from past conversations, interviews, recordings and submissions with and from; Chris Maynard, Todd Bradley, Jim Foti, Jackie Taylor, Nick Beck, Terry Wallace and Jude Turczynski. Additional inspiration from Danny Sheard, Kenny Powell, Karel Tresnak Jnr, Kamoa Kalama, Kisi Haines, Nicole Wilcox, Kirsty Holmes, Sue Sheard and Mindy Clarke. Canoe Sailing written by Nick Beck Canoe Surfing recorded via interview with Chris Maynard Moloka’i Survival Guide written by Terry Wallace Wake Riding written by Jude Turczynski
Bibliography West, Steve. Kanu Culture. Volumes 1-10. Australia. Batini Books. 1995-2005 West, Steve. A Paddlers Guide to Outrigger Canoeing. Batini Books 2009 Toro, Andras. Canoeing: An Olympic Sport. San Francisco. Olympian Graphics. 1986 Level 1 Coaching Manual AOCRA. Australia. Batini Books. 2000. Walker, Brad. The Stretching Handbook. Australia. Walker Health & Leisure. 1998.
ISBN 978-0-9574664-2-5
Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering' Contents Chapter 1
Steerer Profile
1
Chapter 2
Steering Paddles
7
Chapter 3
Steering Strokes
19
Chapter 4
Steering Strokes in other Seats
39
Chapter 5
Commands and Communication
49
Chapter 6
Stability
57
Chapter 7
Rigging
65
Chapter 8
Regatta (sprint) Steering
71
Chapter 9
Open Water
83
Chapter 10
Change Overs
97
Chapter 11
Race Strategies / Preparation
103
Chapter 12
Wake Riding (Jude Turczynski)
111
Chapter 13
Maritime Risks and Rules
119
Chapter 14
Canoe Surfing / Paddling in Surf Zone (Chris Maynard)
125
Chapter 15
Canoe Sailing (Nick Beck)
133
Chapter 16
Safety Items / Accessories
139
Chapter 17
Stretching and Steering Related Injuries
143
Chapter 18
Big Race Preparation (Moloka`i to O`ahu - Terry Wallace)
147
" Most every good paddler, over time, will make for a fair to good steerer. Brilliance however, is only attained by possessing abilities both natural and acquired. The natural ones are a gift. The learned ones, manifest only through time on the water; lots of it."
I could write this from the third person and let you believe someone else wrote about my virtues and vices and why I am eminently qualified to present this offering to you. But I won't, I'll leave that job to me. What I can tell you is that my life has always depended upon a relationship of being on, near, or in the water and the joy to be found in the physicality ocean sports provide in their raw, pure, unpredictable form. Here's some former and present qualifications and roles:
Steve West
My Thanks To
Tahiti Tourism Air Pacific Air Tahiti Nui Fiji Tourism Palau Tourism Marianas Tourism Hamilton Island Resort Infront Communications Susan Boyd Harvie Allison Sue Sheard Chris Maynard Jim Foti Todd Bradley Colin Philp Jackie Taylor Kialoa Paddles and to my beautiful wife Mandy.
British Windsurfing Display Team UK Board Sailing Open Sea Examiner Royal Yachting Association Senior Instructor International Windsurfing Schools Instructor First windsurfer to sail on the River Nile. Co-Founder of the UKs Around Hayling Island Race Level 1 Coaching Principles (Aust) Level 2 Coaching Principles (Aust) Level 1 Outrigger Canoeing Coach (Aust) Elements of Shipboard Safety (Coxswains) Co National Coaching Director (Aust) with C. Maynard (5yrs) Co National Coaching Director (Fiji) with C. Philp (5yrs) Founder of AOCRA Coaching / Author of Manuals Founded Kanu Culture 1994 Author of 12 Books on the subject of Outrigger Canoeing Founding member and Vice President Mooloolaba OCC 1990 Former Vice President Australian Outrigger Canoe Racing Association Former Secretary Australian Outrigger Canoe Racing Association. Team New Zealand Crew 1998 New Caledonia Former International Polynesian Canoe Federation Delegate. 2009 AALS (UK) Authored the Good Practice Guide for SUP 2009/10 UK SUP Coaching Development 2010 UK Outrigger Canoeing Development 2010 Team Starboard Racing Team UK (SUP) 2010 - 2013 ASI CEO Europe Master Coach / Trainer SUP
I've won a few major races along the way, and many 'chocolate medals' silvers and bronze, some of which were more enjoyable than 'wins'. Of over 15 years of competing in the Hamilton Cup Australia, I finished out of the top 5 crews on but a few occasions, testimony to the men with whom I was fortunate to paddle with. Winner Masters Division of Moloka`i Hoe 1998/99 Winner Masters Division of Hamilton Cup 1998/99/07 Winner Masters Division 16km Round Hamilton Island 1998/99/07 Winner Cairns To Port Douglas (OC1) 2008 with C. Maynard Runner up Hauraki Hoe New Zealand 1998/2003 Runner up Catalina Classic 1998 (Mixed Division)
Have raced in these events either once, twice or on multiple occasions. The Hawaiki Nui Va`a I have raced twice, followed it five times and the toughest by far, especially the 2nd day, 60km iron. Catalina, Moloka`i Hoe, Hawaiki Nui Va`a, Hamilton Cup, Moloka`i Hoe, Micronesian Cup, Gold Coast Cup, Bay of Islands NZ, Hauraki Hoe NZ, Ouvea to Poindimie New Caledonia, Fiji International and no doubt, some I've forgotten.
Steering - I have steered many races, Hamilton Cup, Hauraki Hoe, Gold Coast Cup and others, and like many, began because know one else could or would and so you learn. Most of my paddling years have been spent either in seat 1, 2, 5 or 6. My favourite if I had to be honest, is seat 5 in big water with a top crew. In 2007 our Mooloolaba Masters crew consisting of Chris Maynard, Danny Sheard, Grant Kenny, 'Lemmo', Darren Mercer and myself won the around Hamilton Race. Sitting in seat 5 behind these guys in the hands of Danny Sheard was an epic experience I will never forget. We were fast, but did not beat the record we set in 1998, with Danny Sheard and Grant Kenny also in that crew.
Acknowledgments Over a period of greater than twenty years of observation, of racing, of listening of recording and photographing, there are specific steerers who have provided inspiration for this work and to them I owe my gratitude. My thanks to Chris Maynard, Australia’s most successful steerer, winning more Hamilton Cup races than any other since its creation and as such one of the world’s best and with whom I have conducted many a clinic since 1997 and had the privilege of being steered by him on several occasions, including the Moloka`i Hoe, Hamilton Island Australia and at the Fiji International. He is a true ambassador for the sport. Todd Bradley of Hawai`i, with whom I spent a considerable amount of time during 1995 and ’96 when steering Outrigger Canoe Club O`ahu who became the catalyst for my original research. Having sat in the wings to the legendary Tom Conners, an 11 time Moloka`i Hoe winner, his burning ambition to aspire to Tom’s level, drove him to seek perfection in all that he did. To Jim Foti of Lanikai CC, who continues to inspire, as the ‘consummate steerer’ possessing all that it takes to be the finest rough water steerer over the past decade and by virtue the world’s most accomplished. Thanks also to Kai O'pua steerer Jackie Taylor for her insights and inspiration and to Australia’s Sue Sheard one of Australia's finest women steerers, though rarely given opportunity to prove it so, and to Kirsty Holmes, Kisi Haines, Nicole Wilcox and Offshore California’s, Mindy Clarke, the sport’s most successful female steerer. Thanks to Australia’s Danny Sheard of Mooloolaba OCC, who I consider to be one of the finest of ocean steerers, capable of shaving more inches off a race course than any one I have ever known and a true waterman in the context of surf sports. To Karel Tresnak Jnr, who as a result of being raised on a diet of OC1 paddling and OC6 competition from an early age, has provided inspiration to many up and coming steerers and paddlers alike. Finally, my thanks to the many individuals and organisations, which since 1994 have provided their support and ultimately made this publication possible.
Steve West Kanu Culture, Founder and Editor AOCRA National Coaching Director [Australia] 2002-2006 FOCRA Coaching Consultant [Fiji National Squad] 2000 - 2006 Academy of Surfing CEO Europe - Master SUP Instructor Trainer 2010 - 2013
Introduction This comprehensive book, presented in easy to follow format, is the next best thing to having a personal coach at your side. Covering a wide range of topics, issues and techniques, information is presented in a logical, easy to follow sequence, fully illustrated and supported by photos from around the Pacific. Ultimately it is a valuable source of reference for all outrigger canoe paddlers, whether novice or experienced and for those who coach. As part of our 'Kanu Culture Series' this publication manifested out of a deep respect and acknowledgment for those steerers who have the magic touch and as such an attempt to put at least part thereof what they know on paper, seemed an absolute necessity, so as to be a valuable resource for any outrigger canoe paddlers library. The ability to steer an outrigger canoe, while being very much a science is fundamentally an intuition. In theory, you can be told or shown how to steer; but in practice, it requires time on the water; lots and lots of it, developing skills, which evolve to a point in being a natural extension of oneself in getting the most out of canoe and crew. While most every good paddler, over time, will make for a fair to good steerer, to become a true master one must make a study of its nuances and possess abilities both natural and acquired.
The contents of this book, addresses many of the subtle paddle skills and mental concepts required, supported by inspiring quotes from some of the world’s best. Being in the hands of a master steerer, is a unique feeling. Beyond the physical merits of their skills, a master steerer is an analytical animal, who simply interprets, anticipates and acts upon instincts in a superior manner to others. In some regard they possess a sixth sense, which serves to inspire and bring confidence to the crew.
" You become part of the ocean and go with it. When the weather is calm and water smooth, enjoy the peacefulness, explore your boundaries and notice the surroundings. Be friends with the ocean, and when it’s angry, show respect. When you return to land, thank the ocean for safe deliverance and when in the canoe, feel the ocean and its motion and keep the feeling which keeps you coming back for more." Jim Foti.
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1. Profile of a Steerer
"There are many aspects of steering from the basics to advanced theories. But no matter what level you are, the fundamentals remain the same. Technical skills, inherent feelings and mental awareness are all key elements." Jim Foti
Steerer Profile | 1
Profile of a Steerer | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Jim Foti, one of the worldĘźs finest ocean steerers. As a steerer for Lanikai Canoe Club on the Hawaiian Island of O`ahu, he held the distinction during the 90s of steering three of the fastest ever crossings of the Kaiwi Channel between the island of Moloka`i and O`ahu during the annual 66 km Moloka`i Hoe event. A complex array of skills place him in an elite handful of steering masters. Photo Steve West
Physical Characteristics Of all the seating positions in the canoe, the steerer is often the smallest person or jockey of the crew, lightweight while possessing a good strength to weight ratio. For the majority of racing situations, the smaller steerer is preferred. In real terms this may mean a man’s weight is less than 80 kg while for a woman it is less than 55 kg. The importance of this comes in trimming the canoe and in minimising the dead weight a steerer creates each time they are steering as opposed to paddling. Having said this, there are exceptions to the rule. There are some very fine heavy steerers. In big water as well as canoe surfing and sailing, many heavier steerers do very well and also have the added strength sometimes required in handling extreme conditions.
Personality Characteristics To specifically identify a suitable personality for steering is a complex issue. However it is possible to say that it requires someone who exudes confidence and a methodical approach to their paddling. Hot headed people rarely make excellent steerers. Strong, calm, assertive, likeable, these are all good qualities in gaining the crew’s attention. Over the years, I have observed several character types that seem to be common threads in all of the really great steerers.
The Decision Maker Decision making is a constant and vital process in being a steerer. The more good decisions you make as opposed to bad, will tend to accumulate over time and distance, and show on the results board while developing your level of credibility. Two essential elements to being a good decision maker are confidence and assertiveness. Without these qualities, procrastination, possibly the worst situation a steerer can find themselves in, creates mental confusion, anxiety and poor decision 2 | Physical & Personality Characteristics | Decision Making
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making. Procrastination regarding where to go, what to do, how to do it, when to do it, what to say, what not to say, and how to say it, all lead to a variety of negative results; though sometimes you may actually get lucky by doing nothing at all. The most highly prized quality and one which causes one steerer to stand out from others, technical merits aside, is the ability to anticipate a situation even before it happens. Decisions made at the appropriate time, can be considered anticipation, while ones made too late, become lost opportunities, later called, hindsight.
The Leader If the steerer is anything less than the leader or the Captain, then you could describe the canoe as the next best thing to flotsam, mere driftwood at the mercy of the elements. Having a paddler yelling commands from a paddling seat, ‘Go left!’, ‘Go right!’, is enough to drive any steerer crazy; back seat driving outrigger style. Learning to take charge, while gaining the respect of the paddlers as quickly as possible, is often the best way to put an end to the nagging. To become a leader, or at least someone that will be listened to and respected, takes time and a legacy of decisions (anticipations) which pay off and of course some that don’t. There is a saying in life that goes, ‘There are those that follow and those that lead’. For a steerer, from the moment you begin learning, you must already have a desire to lead, to assume responsibility for the canoe and the crew’s safety.
The Perfectionist A sloppy attitude to steering will lead to details being overlooked and a less than meticulous preparation. Of all the crew members, the steerer is the one who can least afford to be sloppy in their habits, their approach towards their paddling and the responsibilities which go with it. Great steerers tend to be perfectionists, preoccupied with details and in ensuring that all contingencies have been covered. They like to know that the covers are well fitted, the canoe is correctly rigged, the bailers are present and in position; hung up and not rolling around the hull floor, and that all safety checks have been made. They sometimes get upset with unnecessary chit chat in the canoe - though can occasionally be the cause of this themselves. They want to avoid confusion and ensure all the details have been covered. A good steerer knows exactly what the race course is and if time permits, will have done their homework concerning issues of tides, wind and swell, and in training will always be demanding of their crew and of themselves.
The Leader | The Perfectionist | 3
Profile of a Steerer | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
The Communicator Of all the seats in the canoe, the one who does the most talking and communicating, is the steerer. They are the oracle of the canoe. In this respect the steerer must be a natural communicator. Their feedback can be crucial to a crew’s motivation, performance and ultimately, safety.
The Motivator Being crew motivator is a tough job. One must be strong and resolute in communicating positive feedback, even when the going gets tough. Keeping your talk positive, even if correcting a paddler’s technique or timing, is a skill. Use appropriate words at the appropriate time, which are familiar to your crew. Know what to say and when to say it and know when to say nothing. Positive talk under negative circumstances can be a challenge.
The Pacifier On occasions you will need to pacify and settle crew members. Your ability to settle hot situations quickly is a skill. You may even need to pacify other crews.
The Rock Additional attributes of a good steerer is someone who doesn’t get fazed by difficult situations. Whatever gets thrown at you, you have to deal with it, positively, effectively, and quickly. Whether it be equipment problems, course changes, crew changes, paddlers becoming incapacitated, capsize, support boats breaking down, rough water, whatever, just deal with it. Making the most of the situation is essential. Too much focus on the negatives will drain your energy and sap your mental strength, as well as that of your crew. When all others are losing the plot, the steerer must remain rock-like and resolute. You should also be strong enough to acknowledge when you may have made a wrong decision, said the wrong thing or failed to act at all. When negative comments are aimed at the steerer, before, during or after a session or race, you will need to be strong enough and thick skinned enough to cope and learn from the experience.
". . . the steerer needs to have skin like a rhino in order to deflect the shots being fired; to avoid being mortally wounded and thereby giving up in the steep part of the learning curve at the beginning of a steering career. Many would-be steerers don’t continue long for this very reason; deciding to take the safe option of paddling." Todd Bradley. 4 | Communication | Motivating | The Pacifier | The Rock
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The Control Freak In essence, the steerer must have an almost pathological want, to be in control; in the nicest possible way, of course. Many long term steerers, who find themselves in a paddling seat, feel a sense of unease at not being in control. Their minds are constantly calculating distance travelled, direction, eyeballing other canoes and on occasion find it very hard to deal with the old adage - ‘Sit down, shut up and paddle’. They want to yell from the rooftops, gain control and do it their way, as they fight the urge to climb back over the paddlers to get to the control seat. Being in control is fine, so long as it’s not over done. The political atmosphere of the crew should be that of a democracy led by a benevolent leader, not that of a republic with a hostile dictator – the last thing you want in the middle of a race is an attempted overthrow.
The Technician The steerer must develop high levels of paddle skills and apply practical, analytical consideration to every facet of their relationship with the canoe and their paddling, while constantly striving to improve and refine their skills and knowledge.
The Competitor In a racing situation, it stands to reason that the steerer needs to be competitive by nature. One of the best attributes a top steerer possesses is the ability to focus on the belief they can win from any position. If you’re behind, it’s believing you can catch up or if you’re out front, that you can hold on to that lead even with all the pressure from behind. Focusing on knowing how to win, what it feels like to win and that you’ll do everything possible to make it happen, makes all the difference. When you develop a winning strategy, you gain a reputation for being a strong competitor who never gives in. As a result you gain respect from others.
Ocean Skills Of all the seats in the canoe, to truly excel and get the most from the canoe and crew, the steerer must have good water skills. There simply is no substitute for this ability. During many coaching clinics we have run, when the subject of steering comes up, the best we can say is that maybe 25% of how to steer can be taught, the remaining 75% cannot; even this may be underestimating the ratio. Gaining good ocean skills from the back of an outrigger canoe is challenging enough and made even more difficult by the added issue of simply maintaining control over the canoe itself. Get out and play on a solo craft. Learn how you get the most out of the ocean by working with it, not against it. This is a far safer and quicker means of gaining ocean skills, balance and sensitivity to the nuances of the ocean. Then when Control | The Technician | The Competitor | Ocean Skills | 5
Profile of a Steerer | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
you step into your team outrigger canoe, you will feel more confident and be able to relax more into your role. You may learn that initial 25% reasonably quickly, but the remainder is the key to determining your eventual level of excellence and this you will need to pursue with great diligence and passion.
Experience is Relative There are some older steerers who have steered for many years but who have only ever reached an average level of proficiency. While there are some relatively young steerers with limited experience, bucket loads of natural talent, athleticism, ocean skills and tactical analysis, effectively steering well beyond their actual experience level. Age and experience are unrelated to natural ability.
Knowing Your Limitations Being realistic about one’s steering abilities is vital in ensuring the safety of the crew, other water users and the canoe. While improvements in skill levels will come about by testing your abilities and that of your crews’ in increasingly more adverse conditions, when you feel enough’s enough and you begin to lose confidence, then it’s probably time to turn around and head for territory you’re more at ease with.
Three Early Fundamentals 1. You should possess a proficient level of paddle skills and have spent time paddling an outrigger canoe to be aware of some of its nuances. 2. You should have a genuine desire to learn how to steer. An ambivalent attitude is a dangerous one, given the level of responsibility. 3. You should display some level of natural ability, i.e. co-ordination, spatial awareness, sense of direction and touch. With prerequisites 1 and 2 in place, when you do finally give steering a go, prerequisite 3 will become self evident pretty quickly. In calm conditions, after some basic instructions, you should be able to quickly maintain some basic level of control over the canoe.
" Ho`okele or steerer. Sometimes called, Papaki`i - papa-kee-ee, literally means, ‘sit flat’. Uses a different paddle from the rest of the crew called, uli - oolee. The captain of the canoe. Keeps, poe wa`a - crew, moving forward and focusing on the job. Must be constantly alert to all conditions affecting the canoe including, wind, waves, other canoes. Also paddles whenever possible." Terry Wallace Hawai`i.
6 | Experience | Limitations | Fundamentals
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2. Steering Paddles
Steering Paddles | 7
Steering Paddles | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Tools of the Trade A paddle is the paddler’s tool of trade and while they may get away with an average stick, the importance of a suitable, efficient, well designed steering paddle cannot be understated. All manner of handling problems quickly reveal themselves as conditions become more challenging. If a steering paddle fails to perform in the calmest of conditions, it stands to reason that its performance diminishes in direct relation to bigger seas, rougher water and higher winds.
Over centuries of change, the differences between steering paddle and paddling paddle have increased. Just as the design and lay up of paddling paddles has become increasingly more of a science, so too has the development of steering paddles. Manufacturers have increasingly been working closer and closer with steerers of high standing to refine and develop an increasingly specialised stick. A good example of this has been Dave Chun of Kialoa Paddles, formerly of Hawai`i now based in Bend Oregon. Dave moved to Oregon because of the wider variety of suitable timbers available for paddle manufacture. He realised that he needed a close working relationship with paddlers and steerers at the top of their sport. He consequently worked with Jim Foti and Todd Bradley of Hawai`i when developing a first rate steering paddle. The association with Jim and Todd was similar to the relationship a surfer may have with his shaper. Todd Bradley gained some notoriety for his skill in making and shaping his own steering paddles. He holds the belief that steerers with any handyman skills should do so in order to refine and create a quiver of customised steering paddles for a wide variety of situations. This idea has long remained with me and it certainly has great merit in highlighting the degree to which a steerer can become fully immersed, involved and committed to being the best they can be.
" In a long distance flat water race, I’ll use a smaller blade area; in fact something closer to a paddling blade as I try not to poke as much and I find my larger ocean steering paddle takes too much of a toll on me with all the extra paddling." Jackie Taylor. 8 | Tools of the Trade
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Shaft Reinforced - either one piece of heavier hardwood or laminated hard and soft woods, sometimes with addition of carbon fibre laminate. Neck Often glassed and or thicker in depth than on regular paddles to deal with extra force.
Back of Blade May include very marginal raised dihedral to permit water to flow in such a way that when placed against the side of the canoe, it sticks to the hull. Blade profile acts much like an airplane wing, with areas of high and low pressure acting to force the blade against the hull.
Steering Heel Extends from neck to maybe only 6" down the front face of the blade. Adds strength, and some control. Non-Slip Rubber Improves grip against canoe, protects canoe and paddle from abrasion. You can purchase non-slip rubber strips from a hardware store, supplied in a roll to replace or add. Blade Face Flat with clean edges.
Design Elements | 9
Steering Paddles | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Design Elements Right: A Todd Bradley design in ʻ95 not dissimilar to the Kialoa ʻBradleyʼ we see today. Carbon fibre reinforces the neck area and well down into the blade face.
Kialoa steering paddles based on Jim Foti and Todd Bradley designs. The primary means to increase surface area in contemporary paddles is to increase the overall length of the blade from tip to shoulder, making a high-aspect paddle - its centre of effort or load is higher up so it can be controlled better when pushed deep into the water to increase leverage.
Todd Bradley's quiver of paddles which he would make as part of a process of refining his paddles to his particular needs - differing conditions, differing canoes and his development as a steerer.
Right: A canoe sailing / canoe surfing paddle.
10 | Design Elements
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A steering blade needs to be designed so it sticks to the side of the hull as a result of water pressure, improving ease of control with minimum effort. The raised curvature or dihedral on the back of the blade creates areas of high and low pressure, much like a wing, which helps to force the blade against the hull, allowing you to steer with one hand, extending the free arm over the ama side when required.
Without doubt, one of the defining qualities of a well designed steering paddle over a poor one, is its ability to stick to the side of the canoe hull when poking, as a result of water pressure flowing over the blade face. A steering paddle which pulls away when using correct technique while poking, is a liability.
A massive steering paddle from the Hawaiian double-hulled voyaging canoe, Hokulea, dwarfs an older steering paddle.
Photo Steve West
A dihedral running down the centre of the back of the blade simply creates a ridge over which water flows at speed, creating areas of high and low pressure, which pushes the blade face against the side of the canoe hull. Steering blades require large flat surface area, so water can flow freely with minimal drag, and when poking can function efficiently as a rudder aided by clean smooth edges.
Angle of the Dangle " Clubs have varying paddling styles which require different blade angles. In flat water races, the steerer needs to conform as closely as possible to the other five paddlers. If the guys are using ten degree shafts, then I might use seven, this allows me to be a little more in sync when I’m paddling. In distance racing, there is no need to conform." Jim Foti. A steerer’s blade generally has less blade to shaft angle than that of a paddler’s. The general variance is from 0-7º but some unique individuals do work outside of this generally accepted range - some even use double bend paddles on occasion, which seems contrary to much of what is accepted as the single bend or even straight shaft paddle is by far the simplest and most efficient design. Blade Angle | 11
Steering Paddles | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Jim Fotiʼs comments reflect how a steerer, operating at a higher level of awareness, understands what is best for the crew and how they can best contribute to the overall efficiency of the canoeʼs run, more as a paddler than a steerer. The message in his advice relates to ensuring that the ʻpower bandʼ is as equal to one another as possible, given calm conditions.
In very simple terms, a crew, as a prerequisite, should all be using paddles with identical blade to shaft angles - so when they are executing nearly identical technique, the point at which the blade is vertical and where maximum power is being applied during the power phase is the same for each. If any one paddler has a blade to shaft angle widely different from their crew, they will essentially be firing out of time. Jim has calculated that if his paddlers are using 10º single bend paddles during a flat water race or sprint, then he can increase his blade angle up to 7º - but no more - to conform as closely to their power band as possible. This reinforces the notion that steerers cannot rely upon one paddle to do all that they need and therefore investing in a quiver of paddles over time makes good sense, also reinforcing to those around you that you are dedicated to being the best you can be. As a general rule, the bigger the water, the smaller the angle between blade to shaft as this will give you greater control, permit you to keep your body weight closer to the canoe and ensure that the blade is running parallel to the canoe hull. In extreme conditions, as might be found in canoe sailing or surfing, these paddles are nearly always straight.
" In a distance race, when poking more than paddling, there is less need to conform. As far as using bent shafts for steering; once again if it’s flat you can get away with it, but in the rough, you’re going to want a straighter shaft so you can maximise leverage and lean left as you poke on the right." Jim Foti.
Variety of Application Steering paddles are designed with greater or lesser bias towards being primarily used for paddling or steering or an equal mix of both. For example, a flat water steering paddle will have many of the preferred design qualities of a regular paddle, closely resembling the paddler’s paddles, and much of the time will be (should be) spent paddling; most directional changes will be executed using power steering techniques. 12 | Blade Angle | Variety of Application
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Conversely in rough seas, especially when paddling downwind, the paddle will be biased more towards steering using poking or rudder strokes - canoe surfing and sailing paddles are always more exclusively designed for steering than paddling. Steering paddles can be classified as follows.
Blade sizes based on averages.
Flat Water/Regatta - Sprint Blade
Typically single bend of 5 - 7º, 9” x 19” Specificity: 75% paddling 25% steering. Open Water - Moderate Sea Blade
Typically single bend of 5 - 7º, 9.25” x 19-20” Specificity: 50% paddling 50% steering. Open Water - Big / Rough Water
Typically single bend of 5º, 9.5” x 20-22” Specificity: 25% paddling 75% steering. Canoe Surfing
Varying wave height will determine blade size. Typically single bend of 0-5º, 9.5-12” x 20-22”+ Specificity: 10% paddling 90% steering. Canoe Sailing
Wind strength and ocean conditions determine blade size. Typically 0º single bend, 11-14” x 20-22”+ Specificity: Wide range depending on wind strengths and sea state, but more generally predominantly designed towards steering. 10% paddling 90% steering. Within each category, it’s possible to have small variances and therefore it is easy to see how a large quiver of paddles is very possible, if not desirable.
Weight Distribution Steering paddles predominantly have heavy shafts while they tend to be blade light; the bulk of the weight is in the shaft due to the fact that they are built up to cope with the load. Another way to express this is that the balance point of the paddle is essentially within the mid-lower shaft area.
This differs from many regular paddles, where shafts are lighter and are often blade heavy with the balance point being just below the neck of the paddle. This trend has now been altered with the introduction of hybrid paddles, which tend to possess light blades made from composite materials of balsa, exotic cloths and resins, laminated using advanced methods, so the balance point is located at the lower extremity of the lower shaft.
Steering Paddle Types | Weight Distribution | 13
Steering Paddles | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Just as with a regular paddle, a steering paddle’s weight distribution must be comforting and encouraging to use. A shaft heavy steering paddle tends to be sluggish to use, as the positioning of the weight hinders transferring the paddle from one side of canoe to the other. During the recovery phase of the stroke it feels discouraging, lacking inertia as its swing weight is positioned too high. Preferably, if the paddle is marginally blade heavy or balanced in the lower shaft, it will feel more encouraging in its use.
Weight Versus Strength There’s no escaping the fact that most all steering paddles will be marginally heavier, sometimes grossly heavier than regular paddles, due to the fact that it must firstly be constructed up to strength, not down to a weight. The steerer needs to be able to quickly and efficiently transfer the paddle between sides of the canoe. The lighter and shorter the paddle length, the better this can be achieved. In addition, during long change-over races, where the steerer remains in the canoe for long periods of time, this will assist in conservation of energy. Typically a regular timber paddle will weigh between 22-24 oz (620-680 gm); carbon fibre, between 9-12 oz (255-340 gm); and a quality steering paddle 24-30 oz (680-851 gm). Photo Steve West
When you consider that even under average steering conditions, a steering paddle must be capable of handling the pressure of manoeuvring a 400 lb (181 kg), 43’(13m)+ canoe, with the added weight of crew and rigging pushing the canoe up to 1500 lbs (680 kg) or more, then you have some idea of the forces that can come into play. Sailing canoes, add up to 600 lbs (272 kg) additional load. Many steerers don’t feel comfortable using very light weight paddles in heavy seas and conditions, as from a purely psychological perspective, ‘Light doesn’t feel right’. This raises concerns about putting too much
14 | Weight Versus Strength
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pressure on the paddle as a whole, and can affect your steering performance. You want to be able to crank your paddle with confidence. As swell, sea and winds rise, the leverage pressures on the blade increase. Even in flat water, regatta (sprint) events, severe pressure can be applied to the blade and shaft in turning the buoy.
Construction Because a steering paddle must be constructed to be tough, the percentage of hardwood used in the laminates will tend to be greater than that of a regular paddle. Hardwood laminates may run in combination with softer, lighter weight timbers and on occasion, the entire shaft may be constructed of hardwood as a single piece. Within the blade itself, additional reinforcement around the blade edges and shoulders are common as is a layer of fibreglass on the power face, especially where the shaft runs into the upper section of the blade just below the neck. Carbon laminates may be added between timber laminates to improve strength and stiffness, particularly in the shaft. Beyond the obvious need for greater use of stronger, heavier timbers than in a regular paddle, a steering paddle will tend to possess a larger blade area and marginally thicker shaft, which results in greater surface area and mass; therefore increased weight is often an unavoidable trait of a steering paddle.
Photo Steve West
" I’m wary of large blade area steering blades that feel too light to handle big surf. I once tried out a beautifully made, light paddle on a big day. The light paddle is no longer light as my husband had to put layers of kevlar on the back to fix the stress cracks." Jackie Taylor. Construction | 15
Steering Paddles | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Size Does Matter
Photos Steve West
It wasn’t so long ago that the, ‘Bigger is better’ mentality ruled the minds of canoe paddlers and paddle makers. It seemed straight-forward logic; the bigger the blade area one could manage, the greater the amount of pull a paddle and paddler could generate and the greater the course alteration a steerer could achieve. We know this now to be a far too simplistic summation, as good steering is more concerned with subtle placement and anticipation. Over the past ten years, blade areas have progressively become smaller and more ʻhigh aspectʼ while shaft lengths have dramatically reduced, resulting in altered steering techniques. Todayʼs steerer paddles more than in the past seeking subtle placement and speed of anticipation in order to counter a canoeʼs wandering, as opposed to brute strength. Bigger paddles require greater strength and energy expenditure, produce greater drag and are a hindrance to maneuverability, speed and ease of use. Top: Todd Bradley shaping. Below: Tahitian Paddle.
16 | Size Does Matter
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Construction | 17
Steering Paddles | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Steering paddles measuring 12-14” (30-36 cm) in width and up to 22” (56 cm) in height, from tip to neck, were once common place. Widths of steering paddles have been dramatically reduced towards 9-10” (23-25 cm) for conventional OC6 paddling. The height from tip to neck has changed little, between 20-22” (51-56 cm) resulting in a blade which can be considered more high aspect in its performance, moving the bulk of the forces further up the blade, making it more hydrodynamically efficient. The height of the paddle has become the more important consideration. It seems that if you want a paddle with more blade area for bigger water, then you would consider adding height before width. This becomes logical when you stop to think of the dynamics of what you want to achieve and the way in which your steering paddle works. By being able to vary how deep you bury your paddle, you increase the surface area and drag in a more progressive manner, than if the blade is super wide down to its tip. Photo Steve West
" Stiff paddle shafts are essential for a well designed steering paddle. You want the canoe to react immediately and have no delay period as the shaft bends and kicks in. This increased stiffness eliminates delayed reactions when it’s in the water and gives a positive feel." Todd Bradley.
18 | Size Does Matter
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3. Steering Strokes
Steering Strokes | 19
Steering Strokes | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Rudder Stroke / Poking The rudder stroke more often called a poke, is considered a passive stroke in that the steerer is required to do little more than hold the blade parallel against the side of the canoe, level with, or forward of the hip and at a varying depth according to how dramatic the correction needs to be. Poking, though relatively simple in calm conditions, becomes something of an art when in rough and or big seas.
" When it’s flat the thought is; paddle then poke, when it’s rough the thought is; poke then paddle. In any case, you want to minimise the number of times you poke, which creates drag and takes you out of being an effective sixth paddler." Todd Bradley.
To Move Left - Poke on the Left - To Move Right - Poke on the Right
20 | Rudder Stroke | Poking
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Negatives of Rudder Strokes / Pokes While poking is the single most effective and energy efficient means of altering a canoe’s direction, there are three major drawbacks; 1. The steerer ceases to contribute to the forward propulsion of the canoe. 2. The steererʼs ʻdead weightʼ has to be taken up by the paddlers. 3. The paddle creates drag.
This passive stroke, consumes a canoe’s momentum, because it creates a good deal of drag which has a negative affect on hull speed and therefore the paddlers. To exemplify the passive nature of the rudder stroke, it is only effective if the canoe has forward momentum - or if water is moving under the canoe at a reasonable rate, i.e. if head-to strong water flow. When open ocean paddling, these negative effects are cancelled out by gains in speed created by the steerer poking the canoe onto a wave/swell. Photo Steve West Hawai`i
"Every time you stick your paddle in the water, the drag created steers the canoe. When you poke on the left, drag is created so the right side of the canoe will run. Don’t overdo it or you will slow the canoe. Once the mechanics are learned, you must learn to use them in combination. A steerer must be good at changing sides, wielding their paddle like a sword, changing sides, three or four times more frequently than the paddlers." Todd Bradley. Negatives of Rudder Strokes | Pokes | 21
Steering Strokes | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
In calmer, less windy conditions, too much poking contributes negatively to the canoe’s progress and the load which the crew must carry. During Sprint or Regatta racing, when conditions are ideal - flat with little breeze - the steerer is going to want to avoid using rudder strokes or pokes as much as possible, relying on power steering and paddling.
Over-Steering Learner steerers tend to constantly over-steer so that the canoe wanders alternatively 5-10º either side of a straight course, resulting in the steerer swapping sides to, cancel out the previous over-steer with each poke. The cause of this is simply a lack of anticipation due to a lack of touch or experience. In calm conditions, a novice steerer will need to experiment with a variety of pokes, as outlined in this section, however one of the key elements is to learn to minimise the time the blade spends in the water and from this learn to anticipate the canoe’s response. When correcting course, it is not necessary to leave the blade in position until such time as the canoe is back on course, otherwise it will tend to continue to swing past the direction of travel required and a counter correction will be needed. As a generality, leave the blade in position only for as long as it takes for the canoe to cease its progression away from your intended direction, and for as long as it takes for it to travel approximately one half of the total correction.
The sheer weight and volume of the canoe means that it has a good deal of swing weight, so once it begins to move left or right from its heading, it gathers pace and momentum, therefore it is important to poke early before it has time to run away on you. Once it moves past a certain point, perhaps ten degrees off line, the task becomes increasingly more challenging to correct one's course.
Small Frequent Pokes Many small, frequent pokes and corrections are more effective and desirable than having to execute longer, drawn out corrections, leading to greater drag compounding all the negative consequences and slowing the canoe’s forward momentum. To become proficient at this requires anticipation and an ability to instinctively know just how much is enough. Anticipation of the nuances of the canoe, even before they occur, is truly a skill learned only by spending a great deal of time on the water in a variety of conditions. Accomplished steerers will tend to be dynamic in working their pokes either side of the canoe with great speed and accuracy, while incorporating forward strokes and pitch strokes, and keeping in time with their crew. They are by nature workaholics. 22 | Over Steering | Small Frequent Pokes
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The Technique for a Poke One of the critical factors in executing an effective poke, is that you must possess a steering paddle with a suitably shaped blade, so when positioned against the side of the canoe hull, the flow of water pushes it against the canoe, therefore doing most of the work for you. A poorly designed blade will tend to pull away from the canoe hull and consequently become a liability, making the steerer’s job extremely difficult. Entering the Paddle
We talk in terms of 'closing the gap', between blade and the side of the canoe. Enter the paddle forward of the body, parallel to the side of the canoe hull - sliding the blade face in at approximately a 45º angle away from you and in a downwards motion to maintain constant contact with the side of the canoe. This ensures that the gap between blade and canoe is closed on entry, setting up pressure on the back of the blade so it effectively sticks to the side of the canoe at the point of entry. Careful placement is the key, keeping the shaft parallel to the hull. Positioning the Paddle
When the paddle is buried to either a quarter, half or full poke as required you have an option to keep the blade at a near 45º angle away from you or you can progressively straighten the blade, moving it closer towards you so it eventually reaches a vertical 90º angle relative to the gunnel. Keep the blade in front of your body, with your arm bent at the elbow. You can rest your forearm along the gunnel for support, keeping your arm in close to your body to maintain a strong, stable position. Body Alignment
A steerer must always be aware of the effects of their body weight on the canoe. Leaning too far over the gunnel can have drastic consequences - especially on the non-ama side which can cause instability towards the ama. Whenever steering on the Photo Steve West Marquesas Islands
Technique for a Poke | 23
Steering Strokes | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
opposite side of the ama - usually the right - always be mindful to keep your body weight centralised to the hull or biased to the left. When steering on the ama side, maintain an upright body position. At times you may want to lean a little to the right to reduce compression on the ama more especially in flat water.
Quarter Poke, Half Poke, Full Poke " Depending on the circumstances, a quarter, half or full poke may be required. Most of the time, smaller more frequent pokes are most efficient. Be conscious of small changes in course and correct them before they happen. Full pokes are used more for surfing, going downwind in heavy wind or correcting mistakes. When poking, be gentle. Don’t jerk the back of the canoe." Jim Foti
Photo Steve West Saipan
24 | Quarter | Half | Full Poke
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Quarter Poke To be used when only a slight correction is required and therefore minimal drag results. Your hand should be will be close to the neck of the blade. You can keep your arm at a 90º bend, running along the gunnel as a guide and for stability, but in time you will find that you probably wonʼt use the gunnel as you develop your own style of poking.
Half Poke To be used where greater or perhaps more urgent correction is required. Your hand should be approximately one hand-span up from the neck. Achieve increased blade depth simply by positioning your hand progressively further up the shaft, allowing the blade to drop deeper.
Full Poke Used in extreme instances when perhaps turning a buoy, canoe surfing and sailing, or following a big sea. Your hand should be 2-3 handspans up from the neck of the paddle. How far your hand moves up the shaft to achieve varying depths will depend on blade height and freeboard of the canoe, i.e. the distance from gunnel to waterline.
Note: Some canoes have greater freeboard in the steererʼs seat than others which could mean you will need a longer blade or shaft to compensate.
Quarter | Half | Full Poke | 25
Steering Strokes | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Poking Ahead of Body Line - Left The most effective and efficient way to execute a poke is by positioning the blade forward of the body. The steerer is better able to apply body weight behind the counter forces of the blade, maintain accurate blade depth as required and keep the gap closed between blade and hull. At this angle, the blade more readily ‘sticks’ to the canoe hull, the steerer maintaining a more upright position, braced against the gunnels. This can be performed as a two-handed or single, lower hand grip only.
Photo Steve West Australia Hamilton Island
Photo Steve West French Polynesia
The canoe is far more responsive to the steererʼs efforts when the paddle is positioned forward or level with the hip. As the blade moves further towards the rear of the canoe, the responsiveness of the canoe to your efforts is reduced proportionally.
From here you are well positioned to remove the paddle and swing through to continue paddling.
Poking Ahead of Body Line - Right The use of two-handed grip as seen in this example, is more challenging than if attempted with a single lower hand grip as used for a vertical poke. Exercise caution as the force of the blade can serve to roll the canoe away from the ama side, causing it to lift. Avoid prying the blade and always ensure careful placement to avoid instability. 26 | Poking Ahead of Body Line
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Keeping the blade well forward will minimise the effects of lift if you do initiate a prying action to gain greater response from the canoe. Keep body weight centralised or biased towards the left.
Vertical Poke - Right Todd Bradley executes a half poke, one hand on the mid-shaft of the paddle, left arm over opposite gunnel in order to counter the effects of the poke which can cause the ama to lift.
Body is twisted to ensure a strong torque action on the paddle. Be careful not to pry or do so with great care. In rough water, you may need your #5 seat to assist by taking a series of pitch strokes or a stern post stroke on the left to protect the ama or assist steering.
Vertical Poke - Left
Photos Steve West Australia Hamilton Island
A vertical shaft so the blade is level with the thigh area provides a strong position from which to control the blade. When in this position, it’s difficult to shift much body weight to the left without prying the blade, therefore keeping the body straight. The lower and upper hands are close and low down on the shaft - as the blade is swung forward, the hands will move progressively up the shaft. During sprint racing where a pry is needed, the top hand would move to the grip, the lower hand would move up above the level of the gunnel. Can also be executed with left hand grip only (i.e. using one arm only).
Vertical Poke | 27
Steering Strokes | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Poking Ahead of the Body Line Right, Using Reverse Grip This is an advanced version of a conventional poke, which takes extreme confidence and skill. This poke allows the steerer to move from left to right mid stroke, without the need to change grip positions.
Photos Steve West French Polynesia
Above: Reverse grip poke right. Below: Jim Foti, Hawaiki Nui VaĘźa Tahiti, transitioning from left to right, nailing a big correctional poke while keeping body weight to the left to protect the ama.
It enables a more powerful forward poke with pry, balanced with the steerer’s weight out on the left and permits the steerer a rare chance to twist in such a way to relieve built up stress and tension in the body while eyeballing the ama.
Poking Behind the Body Line Poking from behind the line of the body for the most part, results in excessive drag and only minimal correctional turning effect. Drag is maximised because the blade face is not making contact with the hull. The canoe fails to respond effectively and in large seas the blade constantly breaks free of contact with the water. When the paddle is positioned behind the paddler, the body is marginally twisted and body weight is more likely to be transferred to the side of the canoe where the blade is positioned, often having a negative effect on the drag and canoe run.
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Poke and Pry Behind Body Line Photo Steve West Moloka`i
In recent years, as a result of pressure on steerers to paddle as much as possible, especially in flatter waters, it has become common practice (more so when paddling on the left), to end the stroke by pulling the blade into the side of the canoe, behind the body line, then prying the blade against the water by opening up the blade face, turning it into the flow of water, thereby nudging the canoe left, to cancel out the steerers tendency to move the canoe right with each stroke taken.
It must be stressed, it is only effective in making incremental changes to course. As a natural continuation of the stroke, it's a relatively easy technique, but can be hard on the paddle shaft and canoe.
Positioning The Legs It is important that you position your legs effectively so they brace you in the canoe and you can transfer weight in the appropriate manner. In rough water and over long periods of time, the legs and lower back areas can be become particularly uncomfortable as can the buttocks - cramping, muscle stiffness, even back spasms are all possible. Be sure to alternate your legs from side to side as you would when paddling, i.e. in front of you on the paddling side with the offside leg tucked under seat. All too often steerers forget to move their legs, which leads to cramping and a pooling of blood in the legs. One of the major causes of discomfort is being on the one side of the canoe for long periods of time due to adverse wind conditions in particular. You can actually try kneeling down on the floor of the canoe, to relieve any pain you may have in your lower back - have seat #5 take over, alternatively try standing up briefly.
Poking Behind Body Line | Positioning the Legs | 29
Steering Strokes | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Removing the Paddle
Photo Steve West French Polynesia
Do so in an upwards and forward motion, if you need to, move the paddle to the other side. If you wish to take a stroke, you can release the paddle from the side of the canoe, allowing it to move aft, up to and past your hip. Bring your free arm over to take hold of the grip. Exit blade using the usual technique, moving through the recovery, set up and entry phase as per normal making sure you keep in time with the crew.
" Your moves must be subtle, always anticipating how the canoe will react. Let the canoe drop off course too much and you will have to create an equally large amount." Todd Bradley.
Power Steering / Paddle Steering Power steering, also called, paddle steering, as used in outrigger canoeing, can be considered a generic term for a variety of strokes which are dynamic in their application, as the steerer is actually executing a pulling stroke which acts upon the canoe to alter or hold its course. These strokes require genuine effort and movement and include in particular, the Draw Stroke and Pitch Stroke. While some of these names may not be familiar to us as outrigger canoe paddlers, these steering strokes have been so named and used in river canoeing for many years.
The Pitch Stroke The pitch stroke, commonly used while steering an outrigger canoe, is frequently and erroneously called a J-Stroke as used in open canoe river paddling, compensating for the canoeĘźs tendency to drift away from the side the steerer is paddling on. The J-Stroke is a forward stroke with a hook added to the end of it, outward from the side of the canoe; held in position or pushed outwards. The weight and drag components of an outrigger canoe make it difficult for it to be effective and as such, it is rarely used.
30 | Removing the Paddle | Power Steering | Pitch Stroke
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Technique
A pitch stroke is a dynamic and powerful forward stroke with a direction factor incorporated into its length, used when the canoe drifts towards the side you are paddling on. This forward stroke begins Photo Steve West Catalina California out from the side of the canoe. The rear of the canoe is pulled towards the paddle. It is similar to the draw stroke, except that it begins forward of the paddler. This stroke can be used when the canoe is moving or stationary. Anticipating when to execute the pitch stroke is essential. Timed correctly, it requires some effort as it is by definition a powerful correctional stroke. Timed badly, it can become nearly impossible to make a difference, poking being your only option for recovery. It should be executed in time with the paddlers so you donĘźt break the rhythm of the canoe.
Pitch Stroke | 31
Steering Strokes | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
In light winds and seas, this stroke is relatively easy to execute. But as winds increase, especially across from the non-ama side and the sea becomes rougher, it becomes progressively harder to perform successfully to the point of being ineffectual and draining on the body and energy levels of the steerer. A good way to practice this is to set yourself a challenge - paddle for 5 minutes and try not to poke once. In flat water it can be done, in rough, windy conditions it is very difficult.
The Draw Stroke - Seats 1, 2, 5 and 6 This powerful turning stroke pulls the canoe towards the side the paddle is on and is very effective when the canoe is moving at slower speeds, stationary and having to make very sharp turns. It is a very useful stroke providing quick manoeuvrability, acting as a brace providing stability to the canoe when needed.
This is a stroke which all paddlers should learn. Seats #1, #2 and #5 (and steerer) should definitely be familiar with its execution, so they can control the canoe, particularly when stationary. When the canoe is at a standstill, seat #1 becomes the bowman, keeping the canoe on line, head to wind or whatever is most appropriate. At speed, when headed in a straight line, this stroke is less effective because the forward movement of the canoe works directly against the paddlers’ efforts. Once the steerer has initiated a turn and the canoe has begun its turn, losing some forward momentum, the draw stroke becomes easier to execute. While the steerer has this as one of their available strokes, they are more likely to use it while the canoe is stationary. The stroker and seat #2 will use this stroke whether stationary or under way. Technique
To execute a draw stroke, rotate your body on your paddling side, lean out as far as possible over the water, and place your paddle in the water in a nearly vertical position. The paddle should act as a brace. Keep your lower hand high up on the shaft, two hand spans up from the neck. As the need for greater course correction increases, increase your lean out from the side of the canoe, so you are nearly 90º and parallel to the water. Your lower arm should be nearly straight while your upper arm is slightly bent with elbow upwards so your force is downwards and inwards. Keep the paddle shaft vertical and blade parallel to the canoe’s keel line. Pull the paddle directly towards you with your arms progressively bending as they near the canoe. This is intended to be a powerful stroke. Use your entire upper body and some body weight behind the stroke. You are attempting to pull the canoe over towards your paddle, not the paddle up to the canoe.
Finish the stroke by driving the paddle under the canoe, to push the dirty water under the hull and break the surface tension between the canoe and the water. Don’t go too far under, as the paddle may get locked up under the hull. 32 | Draw Strokes Seats 1/2/5/6
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Photo Steve West Bora Bora
John Foti extending over side of his canoe executing a draw stroke, pulling the canoe over towards the paddle.
Slide the paddle out of the water by lifting directly upwards with your lower arm and moving your top arm forward to be at gunnel height. In a stationary situation, to repeat the stroke, you need not remove the blade from the water. All you need to do is twist the paddle 90º putting the blade perpendicular to the keel line, slicing it back out through the water to the starting position. Be mindful not to over bury the blade. Your lower hand should not make contact with the water. You need only bury the blade. Push the dirty water under the canoe. There’s no doubt that at speed, this requires strength and good paddle skills. Don’t rush the stroke; you want to pull the canoe over and up to the paddle. You will need to brace yourself firmly in the canoe to avoid pulling yourself out of your seat. Maintaining solid contact with the canoe is essential. Sloppy movement will lead to lost power.
Stern Post / Stern Kahi A common and effective technique used by the steerer is a power stroke performed in a manner not dissimilar to the bow post or bow kahi used by the stroker (on the left) when needing to steer the canoe left while under way. Used by the steerer, the stern post (kahi) stroke steers the canoe right and is often used to compress the ama in rough water or to counteract strong crosswinds and seas pushing the canoe left. Can be used effectively by seat #5 also. This stroke is often used in conjunction with a pitch stroke as a means of resuming paddling or finishing off the correction. Technique
You will be on the left side and rarely use this on the non- ama side, as it will lift the ama. Rotate your body and lean out over the water, by about one half your potential, and place your paddle in the water in a nearly vertical position. The paddle should act as a brace. Your lower hand should be low on the shaft, one to two hand-spans up from the neck, with a firm grip. Stern Post | Stern Kahi | 33
Steering Strokes | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Your lower arm should be bent into a nearly 90Âş angle to enable you to hold the paddle in strongly. Your upper arm should be slightly bent, with your elbow upwards or level with your head, so you can apply downwards pressure.
Keeping the blade vertical and parallel to the canoe hull, apply a Photo Steve West University of Hawai`i strong even pull directly towards you, while marginally opening the blade face to the oncoming flow of water, i.e. turning it out from you. The paddle will want to pull away from you, hence the need to apply pull towards the canoe. The more you open up the blade face to the on flow of water, the greater the turning effect, however the harder it will be to maintain control of the blade. This very powerful and effective stroke needs to be used when the canoe is only marginally off line as it is only effective in bringing about a relatively subtle and slow response from the canoe, when compared to a poke performed on the opposite side. It needs to be used in conjunction with plenty of early anticipation of the canoe’s deviation. A particularly useful stroke in combination with the forward stroke, it creates less drag than a regular poke against the side of the hull. You will only ever hold this stroke for 2-3 of that of your crew, as it saps your energy. If you are struggling, a quick poke taken on the opposite side which will quickly steer the canoe around can be a better option. If your main aim is to protect the ama, you may find yourself holding this position for extended periods.
" As conditions change,techniques must adjust accordingly. When the wind is blowing broadside or from behind, you need to poke more than pull, as poking creates a more immediate response with less effort." Todd Bradley. 34 | Stern Post | Stern Kahi
www.kanuculture.com Photo Steve West Moloka`i
In this instance, poking on the opposite side would be preferable. The steerer is struggling to maintain control as the canoe wants to pull left with the passing of cross swells left to right. A quick half to full poke on the right would be far more effective and less energy consuming.
Pry Stroke The pry stroke can be executed in two ways; passively or dynamically. When the canoe is moving, a passive or dynamic pry can be applied; when stationary a dynamic pry is required. A pry combines with a poke, leveraging against the gunnel.
Dynamic Pry The paddle is positioned as for a poke, then by using the canoe gunnel as a leverage or fulcrum point, the paddle is repeatedly pulled and pushed 45-90Âş relative to the gunwale forwards and backwards, and marginally across the body line (over the gunnel) so additional leverage can be created, the blade ‘prying’ the water in a pumping action. Essentially the force of the water pushing on the blade serves to push the stern of the canoe away from the The steerer is struggling to make the turn and having to pump the paddle using a forward and backward dynamic prying action against the canoe. Pry Strokes | 35
Steering Strokes | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering' Photo Steve West Australia
side you are steering, the bow traveling towards the side you are on. When stationary, this is particularly useful if you need to manoeuvre the canoe and it is proving hard to turn using a draw stroke. This stroke is more commonly seen during sprint turns, when the steerer has left the turn too late and has to take somewhat drastic action to make the turn, working the pry on the left side. It creates large amounts of drag and ideally if you have made your turn early enough, the need to use a dynamic pry can be avoided as it tends to act adversely on the canoe’s run.
Photo Steve West French Polynesia
Levering against the canoe, both paddle and canoe suffer stress. If ever your paddle was going to break, this is the most likely time and your canoe could suffer some damage. This stroke is quite awkward and puts you into a position which is far removed from paddling in the true sense of the word. The body is closed up and unable to move into another stroke quickly.
Static Pry A pry can be held in a static manner against the hull. It is essentially a poke with extra angle and force added to the blade. When wanting to turn, the steerer can either keep the 36 | Pry Strokes
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paddle vertical, or swing it marginally forward, then pull the paddle towards the body approximately 5-10º, turning the trailing edge of the blade face outwards by the same degree to hold a static pry against the side of the canoe without pumping. Keep your body weight behind the paddle. Made early and in combination with good timing and form from seats #1 and #2, a sharp turn can be achieved, without the need to revert to a dynamic pry.
Back Paddle / Back Water The back paddle or back water stroke, is the reverse of the forward stroke, though biomechanically it cannot be performed in the same manner. Used to slow a canoe’s forward momentum or to travel backwards, a steerer will need to learn such strokes in order to back up when returning to shore or when holding the canoe on a start line. While back paddling, the steerer will use a variety of shortly executed draw and pry strokes in order to control the direction of travel. Caution: Reverse the paddle when executing this stroke with any force, to prevent stressing the paddle and to gain greater control. Technique
You can reverse your upper hand grip if you feel you can gain more purchase and control over the blade. Position the paddle at approximately a 65º angle to the waterline and behind the line of your body, being mindful not to extend too far behind or the paddle will generate too much downward force rather than the required horizontal force. Push the paddle forward using your lower hand, while rotating your body through the stroke, so you can use your body weight. Pull the grip towards you. Keep the stroke relatively short and push hardest when the blade is vertical, keeping the blade parallel to the canoe keel line. When the paddle is only slightly past vertical, remove it from the water by dropping your upper hand down across your body, lifting your lower hand and moving back into the entry position behind you. This stroke is used by all paddlers when backing up. Adding a directional component; reach behind and place the paddle as far out from the side of the canoe as possible, keep the paddle at an angle so the grip is near your ear. Pull the paddle towards you with your lower arm, push away with your top arm and remove the paddle when near your hip and repeat. This is essentially a form of reverse draw stroke.
Pushover Stroke The push over stroke is used when the canoe is stationary, turning a canoe away from the side the paddle is on. A weak stroke, useful for precision manoeuvring. Back Paddling | 37
Steering Strokes | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Technique
Place the paddle vertically next to your hip, blade face open and push the paddle away from the side of the canoe with your lower hand. Your upper hand remains more or less stationary. Return the blade by closing it and slicing back through water to the vertical position. Open face and repeat. This stroke can be also be used by the stroker.
Brake Stroke Technique
A brake stroke is an essential stroke for stopping the canoe. It is a stroke which all paddlers need to know. The blade is placed vertically next to the body with blade face open so it acts like a brake. Depending on the canoe’s rate of travel, the paddler will need to apply quite a lot of force in a forward pushing manner with their lower arm in order to hold the stroke. Caution: If time permits, reverse the paddle to prevent breakage.
Steering a Double Canoe A brief mention of steering a double canoe is worth including. One steerer takes on the primary role of steering. The other acts as an auxiliary. Steering is much the same, but with added weight and inertia. A double canoe is very stable, but does not handle well in rough and choppy waters.
Photo Steve West New Zealand Nationals
38 | Pushover | Brake Stroke | DC12
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4. Steering Strokes in Other Seats
Steering Strokes in Other Seats | 39
Steering Strokes in Other Seats | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Steerers need to have good spatial awareness and peripheral vision, sometimes it only takes one clip of a rear manu or ama to end up in this mess. Strokers also need to keep their heads up to see where they can execute a kahi or uni to avoid collisions. They need to be the eyes and the thinking part of the canoe every bit as much as the steerer. Photo Harvie Allison
Steering Responsibilities From the Front A critical factor in being in the front seats of an outrigger canoe, is that you are essentially the eyes of the canoe. Paddlers in this position can see what is directly ahead and whatʼs underneath the canoe at any given moment better than the steerer who is obstructed by other paddles and distance from the bow.
Within a good team and crew set up, the front paddlers and especially the stroker at seat #1, will need to work with the steerer in safe-guarding the canoe. At times the stroker may need to take immediate, evasive action in order to guide the canoe past a submerged object, fend off from a fixed object or let the steerer know of any impending hazards. Seats #1 and #2 are essentially auxiliary steerers controlling the bow of the canoe. In particular, when the canoe is stationary, the stroker cannot afford to switch off and leave the steerer to struggle with maintaining the canoe’s position - especially when there is any breeze, wave or tidal action. The steerer and to some degree seat#2 need to use draw strokes to keep the canoe under control. It’s not uncommon, when rounding a turn mark during sprint regattas, for the stroker to use a combination of steering strokes including an une followed by a kahi or draw stroke. Sitting in the forward seats requires that you have excellent paddle skills and the mental dexterity and confidence to use the appropriate stroke when required. 40 | Steering Responsibilities from the Front
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Draw Stroke (See pages 32/33)
Bow Post Bow Kahi (kah-hee = cut) A stroker can execute a variation of the draw stroke, known as a bow post, or in Hawaiian language, a Kahi. This stroke is used on the ama side and during sprint or regatta racing when going around the markers.
River paddlers often argue over the subtle differences between a bow rudder and a post stroke as they are similar, but within outrigger canoeing, the Kahi is used in only one way.
The key element with the kahi, is to ensure you are steering the canoe over towards the paddle, by progressively opening the blade face, turning it It is a very powerful and towards the oncoming water by using your top hand effective stroke, and essentially and twisting it away from you. The stroke is held for involves the same set up approximately 3 - 4 strokes after which the paddler procedure as the draw stroke, commences paddling, using a pitch stroke out from the beginning with the paddler side of the canoe moving progressively inwards to be reaching out from the side of pulling parallel to the keel line for as long as it takes for the canoe, to be low over the the steerer and the canoeĘźs inertia to do the rest.
water with the paddle shaft vertical.
Photo Sue Sheard
However there are some essential differences - primarily because the paddler does not attempt to pull the canoe over to the paddle, but rather, steers the canoe towards the side where the paddle is planted. Note: Seat #5 can perform a stern post - kahi, on the right side - a technique sometimes used when rounding buoys to assist the steerer. Technique
For a stroker to execute a kahi, you will be on the left side. Rotate your body, lean out as far as possible and place your paddle in the water in a nearly vertical position. The paddle should act as a brace. Keep your lower hand high up the shaft, two Bow Post | Bow Kahi | 41
Steering Strokes in Other Seats | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
hand-spans from the neck. Your lower arm needs to be bent nearly 90º to keep the blade vertical while your upper arm is bent and high, so you can apply pressure. Keep the paddle shaft nearly vertical. Turn the paddle’s power-face so it opens outwards, towards the on-flow of water, by about 20º relative to the canoe. In this way, water will flow against the right hand, power- face, leading edge and across the face, causing drag. The position is held braced and locked, so remain out from the side of the canoe. The more you open the blade face to the on-flow of water, the greater the turning effect. By opening out the blade face, the canoe is steered over towards the side of the paddler. It will feel as if you are pulling the canoe over, as you will need to pull against the paddleʼs tendency to pull away from you.
After a number of strokes taken by the remaining paddlers, usually 3-4, the stroker then begins to draw their stroke inwards to the canoe, becoming a pitch stroke. The first of these beginning at about 45º relative to the canoe hull. The second, third and fourth strokes move progressively more towards being parallel to the canoe hull to eventually become a forward stroke.
Bow Rudder Stroke / Une (oo-nay)
The une is a much misunderstood steering stroke and hence, it is often poorly executed. Which might explain why you see so many versions of it, due perhaps to a lack of understanding of what is trying to be achieved. If we talk in terms of the stroker executing an une during a sprint or regatta race as a means of turning a buoy, it combines a poke, a static or dynamic pry, and a brake stroke to create the une, which as such is a very hard stroke to perform well.
Planting the Une It is important to consider the first part of the une, the point at which you set the blade as a poke performed at the front of the canoe on the right side, with the objective of steering the canoe towards the left.
An example of a bow rudder poke, with some degree of a static pry being used by the stroker to assist the steerer, not to make a big turn, but a quick adjustment in direction and held for only a short time. Little forward speed is lost. Photo Harvie Allison 42 | Bow Rudder Stroke | Une
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In simple terms, this is a bow rudder stroke. Unlike the poke performed at the rear of the canoe, which turns the canoe towards the side the steerer is poking, a poke performed at the front of the canoe turns it away from the side the stroker is poking. This can be used either on the right or left side when the canoe is at speed. This stroke, used on its own, is very handy when paddling at speed where you need to make a quick adjustment left or right in course, i.e. when chasing runners in open water, or if you need to avoid a submerged object. It works well on either side of the canoe. The bow rudder stroke (poke) can be performed as an extension of the side you are paddling on, or you can quickly change sides from right to left, or left to right, to perform a reverse grip bow rudder stroke, i.e. your hand grip remains unchanged. In emergency situations, you may not have time to change grip.
Une With A Brake Stroke, Using a Conventional Hand Grip
Photos Steve West University of Hawai`i Honolulu
Combining the poke with a pry and adding a brake stroke to effectively stall the canoe at the front, you have all the dynamics which come together to make a classic une used for rounding turn buoys. Todd Bradley and Jim Foti demonstrate. Using a conventional grip. On the approach to the turn, the stroker was on the right, Todd sets the blade face so the on-flow of water would act against it and begins to pull
Une with a Brake Stroke | 43
Steering Strokes in Other Seats | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
the paddle over the canoe to initiate a pry using the gunnel of the canoe. Note his reasonably low hand grip to control the blade. Todd has opened up the blade face to be nearly 45Âş to become a brake stroke. This stroke effectively serves to stall the nose of the canoe to enable it to turn on its nose. Jim draws or uses a pitch stroke.
At this point the force of water would be considerable. In reality, you would have to consider how many juneor age paddlers and smaller ladies could hold this stroke effectively. The une is called when the steerer pokes their blade on the left side in the critical part of the turn. The stroke pokes an une on the right. The Objective
When you set the une you aim to effectively slam the brakes on, causing the nose of the canoe to drop and the tail to lift. It’s critical at this moment, that the steerer times their poke when the tail is at Photos Steve West its lightest and free to slide around. In addition, you are literally pushing the canoe over to the left by using the water as a medium to push against and the canoe as a medium to crank against. Technique
You must be positioned forward on your seat and preferably on the right side as you enter the turn if going straight from paddling into an une.
In these photos, we can see two extreme versions of paddle placement. The top photo shows a truly gymnastic approach to the une, the paddle is positioned almost behind the paddler, using a conventional grip. The photo below this shows a variation, where the shaft is angled away from the paddler at an extreme angle, using a reverse grip, and the paddler has crossed from left to right without altering hand grip positions. A powerful static pry or brake stroke is nearly impossible to apply from this position, but it may have merit in being placed so far forward. Blade control may be difficult. Raising the lower arm may allow for a pry. 44 | Une
Alternatively, approach the turn paddling on the left, changing sides on the steerers call, using a reverse grip, i.e. without altering your grip on the paddle. When the call is made, reach well forward, turn your body outward towards the right side and plant the paddle close to the canoe hull, with the blade face perpendicular. Ensure your leading leg is in front of you, bent at the knee.
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Keeping the blade against the hull, angle the blade outward from the trailing edge and perform a static or dynamic pry stroke using the side of the canoe gunnel as a fulcrum or support point. If the stroker applies a dynamic pry, pumping each une on the right side, the steerer, a split second after each, executes a dynamic pry stroke with their paddle against the side of the canoe. The sequence is; poke, une, poke, une.
" When the une is being performed, the crew can really back off the power and just go through the motions. At this point, you just want to pivot. Full power from the crew will kill it. Seat #2 can paddle steer out on the left, helping to pull the nose around." Jim Foti.
Reverse Grip Une
Photos Steve West University of Hawai`i Honolulu
Todd, sitting in the strokerʼs seat, demonstrates paddle and grip position when using a reverse grip where the stroker has changed from left to right on the steerers call without altering the hand grip. The poke is placed well forward of the seat with hands reasonably high on the shaft; the further forward you can get, the greater the turning effect. Note that his lower hand is high up on shaft to allow him to reach forward. The blade at this point is nearly parallel to the hull, the blade is angled forward around 45º with no pry at the entry phase of the stroke. Todd opens out the blade face to ʻapply the brakesʼ. Jim then plants his paddle and sets up to perform a draw or pitch stroke. Todd can now apply a static or dynamic pry in levering the shaft against the hull.
" The mechanics behind the une are important to understand. You need as much speed as possible coming into the turn. Position the paddle as far forward as possible to move the pivot point forward. You’re trying to stop the front of the canoe. The front drops, the tail lifts as the une is applied. The steerer then times their poke when the tail is at its lightest and free to slide around. The canoe pivots around the nose, not the tail." Todd Bradley. Reverse Grip Une | 45
Steering Strokes in Other Seats | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
" You don’t want to have the stroker continue with the une for too long and not all the way around, as the canoe’s momentum will see it around the rest of the way. You want to get paddling as soon as possible. The une should last for about 4 or 5 seconds (say 3 - 5 strokes) and account for only a 20 degree portion of the turn only, the rest is performed entirely by the steerer." Todd Bradley. Photos Steve West Bora Bora IVF World Sprints
With A Pry Stroke If you combine this bow rudder stroke with a dynamic pry, your paddle becomes a lever, creating a more aggressive turning effect on the bow of the canoe. In combination, far from being a simple stroke, it requires understanding, commitment, strength, good timing and technique. You frequently see variations of the une. For the purest, it combines the poke, pry and brake stroke all in one, to stall the nose of the canoe, as the turn is made around the nose and not the tail. Most variations avoid the brake stroke component, making it effectively a bow rudder stroke using a poke and pry.
Stern Post / Stern Kahi (Left) Seat #5
" Seat #5 ‘Noho’Elima: Also called Pani (pah-nee) or steerer’s substitute or assistant steerer. Keeps a vigilant eye on the ama. Helps to steer when required, usually in large waves. Would take over steering if ho’okele is unable to steer or man overboard. Also known as the ‘keeper’ as protector of the ama. Must be able to instinctively and assist steering when needed." Terry Wallace. 46 | Une with a Pry | Stern Post | Stern Kahi
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Photo taken at the Heemoana VaĘźa race in Tahiti 2001. Here Jim Foti plants a one handed poke on the right to pull or hold the canoe right, while seat #5 plants a stern post kahi to protect the ama and assist in holding the canoe on line, pulling the canoe right. Photo Steve West
The importance of a good seat #5 paddler in rough water conditions can not be overstated. They must have a symbiotic working relationship with the steerer, acting as protector of the ama when the steerer is working the right side of the canoe and assist steering if the canoe is pulling radically to the left in particular. At high speed in downwind paddling, the inertia which a canoe can build up is quite significant - once it pulls radically off course, it can be more than one person can handle; it’s as simple as that. Seat #5 paddlers need to be accomplished steerers themselves in such circumstances - reinforcing the need for all paddlers to have a reasonable understanding and skill level of steering. At the higher levels, most paddlers in the canoe will know how to steer.
Stern Post / Stern Kahi
Photo Steve West
(Right) Seat #5
Used in sprint races as one of the variations of sequences paddlers can use to round a buoy. One of the major concerns with this stroke is the instability it can create in the canoe, in making the ama twitchy as it creates lift on the left. However, with all the paddlers working in correct sequence and the steerer planting a strong poke on the left, capsize is minimised. Stern Post | Stern Kahi | 47
Steering Strokes in Other Seats | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Draw Stroke Seat #5
Seat #5 can execute a draw stroke on either side of the canoe, stationary or moving with caution when used on the right.
Seat 1 reverse grip uni, seat 2 kahi, seat 5 draw stroke. Photo Steve West New Zealand Nationals
Seat #1 Noho’Ekahi: Also steers from the front, especially during sudden changes of direction by reaching with paddle, kahi (kah-hee = cut) and by une (oo-nay) levering the blade into the side of the canoe. Seat #2 Noho’Elua: Assists turning canoe from the front when necessary.
48 | Seat 5 Draw Stroke
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5. Commands and Communication (Na Kauoha)
Commands and Communication | 49
Commands | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Mean What You Say. Say What You Mean! A steerer is expected to contribute to the crew’s motivation by talking and encouraging, but this is a skill in itself and a very under-rated one. The things that you say and perhaps one or two key words which your crew relate to, can make all the difference.
Photo Steve West Raiatea French Polynesia
The fact is, some steerers have a habit of saying the wrong thing at the wrong time and consequently do little more than become an annoyance to the crew. You can kill the crewʼs moral, timing, rhythm and can even burn them out, by making poor calls.
" I constantly motivate my crew. They’re always listening out for me to tell them what I’m feeling, so they are aware at any one time of how things are. If I haven’t spoken for a while, they begin to wonder what’s going on with me." Chris Maynard. Develop a specific vocabulary of words, which your crew becomes familiar with. They must be carefully chosen and without ambiguity. When racing and training, rather than singling out a paddler struggling with timing issues for example, simply call out, ‘Timing’, so there is a collective response to focus on that part of their paddling, which should pull up your offender. Follow this up with, ‘Good work!’ or ,‘There you Go!’, a message to acknowledge that the problem is fixed. You may need to repeat the first part a few times and if you are getting no response, you may need to call out, ‘Concentrate’ or, ‘Focus’ to get their attention. If wanting to push onto a runner in the open water, simply say, ‘Push now!’ or something similar to evoke a lift in effort. However, if you continually call this at the wrong time, your crew will burn out and hesitate to respond to your commands in future. Whatever your choice of words, keep it short and convey a clear message. 50 | Mean What You Say | Say What You Mean
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Watch Your Tone Your tone of voice, if of a particular type, can be an annoyance. The last thing a paddler needs when they’re already suffering enough pain, is to hear a whining voice, repeating itself like a broken record. Say your commands with gusto. Say it like you mean it. Develop a tone of voice which is authoritative and assertive - and loud so they can hear you.
Establish Lines of Communication Establish a system of having a paddler repeat what you say to ensure that the forward seats can hear what’s being said. When sitting in #1 or #2 and all you hear are indistinct mumblings or nothing at all, it can become very frustrating. Seat #4 or seat #3 should be charged with the repeats - don’t let it be open to misinterpretation. They need to repeat your commands verbatim not use their own wording or interpretation of what you, the steerer is conveying. They must also say it with the same intent. This is particularly important in rough water, high winds and during the madness of a race start. Practice this communication process during training to establish a good system of cooperation.
‘Empty Vessels Make Most Noise’ The above expression is one which every steerer should live by. Avoid talking too much. Choose words carefully, ones which are powerful and evocative, as opposed to weak and bland. Don’t turn your motivations and commands into long sentences.
Work on Building up Trust Avoid too Many Negatives " You must learn to be a leader that’s trusted, which can be tough. Sometimes however I feel I’m talking too much, particularly if all I have to say is negative things about someone’s technique or rhythm. Then it’s best to go quiet for a while. Elite crews shouldn’t have this problem; they are so in tune with their paddling that they rarely need to be reminded and when they are told, they correct almost immediately.’ Todd Bradley ‘For the crew to listen to you, they need to respect you. That’s the whole deal and you only gain that respect over time - winning races and making judgement calls that work." Chris Maynard.
Your Tone | Lines of Communication | Too Much Talk | Build Up Trust | 51
Commands | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
The message here is a warning to all steerers to mind what they say and to ultimately be accurate, consistent and reliable when making calls.
Develop a Positive Belief System " A steerer’s belief becomes infectious. If you believe you can win, if you tell your crew they can do it, then you inspire them with confidence, with belief that they have the power within them to win and to be their best. Results improve as one’s beliefs do." Chris Maynard. No matter how bad things get, stay positive. If you don’t believe in your crew and that is reflected in the way in which you communicate to them, they’ll pick up on this and consequently under- perform as a result. Developing positive beliefs about one’s ability, as individuals or collectively as a crew, is always good. But occasionally this gets negated by an equally powerful negative belief. Weed these out in the carpark, not on the water.
Stay in the ‘Here and Now’, Keep Focused When talking to your crew, you can work on the concept of breaking the race up into segments rather than seeing it as one long race. In effect you create or visualise lots of smaller races within the one race. The more stages of the race you win, the better you’ll do. In long races or training sessions, being in the moment is essential as too many crews focus on the end result, the end of the race or session. But it’s key to focus on the here and now to ensure that everyone is doing their best. Projecting too far forward can create all sorts of negative thoughts. Training your mind is important so you can help others, especially the less experienced.
It’s Only Water " The night before a Moloka`i race, you’ll sometimes hear, “The seas are too big, it may be called off”. Well the fact is, it’s rarely called off, the race is still going ahead and no matter what the conditions, you have to tell yourself and the crew, “We’ll handle it.” A steerer running around saying, “I need a bigger blade or I’ll never hold the canoe,” is a typical negative response. What the steerer should be saying is, “Whatever size it is, I’ll cope, I’ll be the best I can be”. And then you get crews running around saying, “We’re not used to these conditions,” when all they have to remember is, big deal, its only water, we’ll go and have some fun." Chris Maynard. 52 | A Positive Belief | Keep Focused | It's Only Water
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In the position of steerer, there will be times when your nerve is going to be tested. Try and keep things in perspective. If it means you don’t paddle as much, and you spend your time safe guarding the canoe, calling on your #5 seat to help you out when needed, then so be it. It’s your call and at the end of the day, teamwork is what will make your task easier.
Creative Visualisation Before major races, spend time each day as part of your training, focusing on the event, on the course, on the prevailing conditions or what it could be like. See the canoe you will be using and your crew. Play out some scenarios of different situations at turn marks or landmarks and imagine how you will deal with them. Come race day, you should feel less need to focus on the event as you have already done it many times over in your mind. Enjoy the day, chat to people and by the time you are in the canoe, you should feel relaxed and better prepared to take it as it comes, knowing you can deal with whatever comes your way. Develop a strategy for dealing with big race days - don’t leave it until the day of the race. Begin well ahead of time, so no matter what, you are prepared, positive and organised.
Maintain Enthusiasm Enthusiasm is important, not just yours, but the paddlers’ also. If you lose enthusiasm, it’s hard to stay positive. Lack of enthusiasm because the crew isn’t what you wanted or the course has been altered, leads you to make more mistakes. You need to get over it quickly and focus. When steering well, you will tend to be in a more positive frame of mind as you might expect. But you will also need to be positive prior to the race or training session. If you appear unmotivated or lacking in enthusiasm, your crew will sense this and negative consequences could result. The less we think or worry about a situation, the better we can concentrate on solving it. Keeping anxiety levels low is important as this allows you to focus, to close out all the non-related issues. Identify individuals who need motivating to raise Creative Visualisation | Maintain Enthusiam | 53
Commands | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
performance levels. Some paddlers may seem too nonchalant which can be detrimental to those who lack confidence. Some get over revved up and under perform, and therefore may need to be brought back down to earth.
Dealing With Fear Fear is a big issue with some paddlers and steerers. Fear of pain. Fear of the coach’s response to poor performance. Fear of big seas. Identifying what fears exist within your crew or within yourself, will allow you to deal with them or at least be forewarned. As far as fear of pain is concerned - there is no substitute for visiting it as much as possible to gain greater control of it. You can then draw on this as a steerer in the toughest of situations. Many paddlers simply back off from pain and therefore never really learn to cope with it. Pain thresholds vary between individuals. As pain moves in, you tend to remove yourself from the task at hand, steering, and end up focusing on the pain. Overcome this fear by training yourself to deal with it and don’t be afraid to push through some really tough training sessions. Make it a personal challenge to see how hard and far you can push yourself. Naturally, learn the difference between good pain and bad pain, if it’s bad pain you may want to pull up!
54 | Dealing with Fear
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Controlled Aggression An aggressive nature can help, but it must be controlled. Aggression can drain you and make you lose focus, especially on issues of technique. Aggression is in some ways the foundation to being a good competitor, however you need to learn to identify good aggression as opposed to bad. Your crew will appreciate the competitor in you, but if you become aggressive in a negative manner towards them or others, most people don’t respect that. Once uncontrolled aggression creeps in to your steering, there is a strong chance you will loose focus on your task, as most aggression will tend to be directed outside of your immediate environment - the canoe - and wander off to another canoe, for example. It could be that you become angry at yourself and begin beating yourself up about bad judgement calls or a capsize. Do it later on the beach!
Establish Who Does What, When! There are many niggling annoyances which a steerer can encounter. You will need to make sure that seat #5 listens out for when you need them to assist steering or to protect the ama. In time, they should learn to do this instinctively. When to bail is a huge issue. The steerer should not have to wait until there is water sloshing around their ankles, before shouting, ‘We’ve gotta bail’. It needs to be a responsibility which is delegated and done at specific times which will have been discussed and agreed upon. Seat #4 is usually the preferred bailer.
" When stationary, your stroker and seat #2 need to assist in holding the canoe on line, and your middle seats need to be protecting the ama. It’s all about communicating your needs and ensuring they are being met." Steve West
Controlling Aggression | Who Does What | 55
Commands | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Pet Hates The all-time pet hate of most steerers, is having assorted water bottles around their feet while trying to steer, with perhaps the odd cap and a shirt mixed in for good measure.
" I have known steerers to vent their annoyance of this so much that they have said that the next bottle to come their way will be tossed overboard - and have subsequently done so, leading to a few pleasantries being exchanged, while the paddler gags for a drink. If a paddler has no appropriate means of securing their water bottle or hydration system, then the canoe floor is not the solution." Steve West
Specific Key Commands (Na Kauoha) Terry Wallace Hawai`i
Ho`okele (steerer) commands tend to get complicated and verbose. With this system, we always use the same word for each action. This keeps the commands simple, the same no matter where you are and easy for everyone. FOR EFFICIENCY AND TO SIMPLIFY THE SPORT OF HAWAIIAN CANOE RACING, ALL COMMANDS IN THE CANOE SHOULD BE IN HAWAIIAN / OLELO MAOLI. ALWAYS USE THE SAME WORD FOR EACH ACTION. ABROGATION (last order given supersedes) NA POE ho`olohe) - TEAM (everybody pay attention) HAPAI - LIFT (the canoe up) IHO - DOWN (set the canoe down) `ONOU - PUSH HARD (when moving canoe on cart over obstructions) `E`E - GET IN THE CANOE MAKAUKAU - GET READY paddles rest on gunnels in direction of travel KAUPE` - REACH OUT `E HO`OMAKAUKAU - GET READY `IKE - SET paddles touching water ready to go `KO - PULL BACK THE BLADE IMUA - PADDLE HOE - PADDLE not racing, just moving forward HUKI - PADDLE HARD racing (PUSH - GO NOW) HOLD WATER to keep the canoe stationary DRAW LEFT / DRAW RIGHT front paddlers draw stroke to control nose direction HOE AMA - PADDLE ON LEFT (AMA) SIDE everyone HOE AKAU - PADDLE ON RIGHT SIDE everyone HOE HOPE - BACK PADDLE HEA - (HUT) CHANGE Call from Kahea to change sides paddling.Team answers, "HO" confirming. UNE (ama / akau) - LEVER #1 (& sometimes #2 also) reach 90 degrees and pull bow around. KAHI - CUT - #2 holds blade on right side of canoe MALIE - PADDLE EASY / BACK OFF but keep paddling HOE PAU - STOP PADDLING immediately (WIND OFF - STOP PADDLING - PADDLES UP) EXAMPLES: "Ka po`e - hoe ama`!" - everyone paddle ama side. "`ekahi, `elua ... hoe akau!" - #1 & #2 paddle right side! "`ekahi, `elua ... une akau!" - #1 & #2, pull the bow to right!
56 | Pet Hates | Specific Commands
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6. Stability
Stability | 57
Stability | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Photo Steve West Moloka`i
The Importance of Understanding Stability Being a rigger, is a key element in being a steerer. Learn how to rig a canoe; take an interest as youʼre the one who will suffer most for failing to check or be involved at the rigging stage. All manner of negative consequences can occur as a result of a poorly rigged canoe and the worst part about it is that as steerer, you will have to deal with these consequences.
An unstable canoe can be classified when it displays any number of characteristics when steering; pulling hard left, a twitchy ama, too much lean in on the ama, all lead to you spending more time fighting the canoe and compensating for its’ adverse behaviour. In the case of an outrigger canoe, the presence of the outrigger assembly greatly affects the dynamics of stability, unlike any other craft. It can provide stability or instability according to how it has been rigged.
Stability There are a number of useful descriptive terms to identify various states of stability. The subject is a complex one, involving differing states of equilibrium between forces which include; centre of gravity, buoyancy, metacentric heights and righting levers all centred around laws of physics and beyond the scope of this manual. Stability Can Be Considered Along Three Differing Angles of Plane
TRANSVERSE Side to side. LONGITUDINAL Fore and aft. VERTICAL Up and down.
The canoeʼs ability to return to an upright position after being heeled by an external force can be defined between three forms of 'stability'.
POSITIVE NEGATIVE NEUTRAL
Canoe returns to original position after inclination. Inclines then continues moving away from original position. Canoe, after inclining, remains in an inclined position.
58 | Understanding Stability
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Linear Motions Surging
The backward and forward motion of the canoe’s direction of travel along a longitudinal, fore and aft axis. Power from the stroke surges the canoe forward, which is negated and finally halted by forces of resistance. Surge can also originate from moving water, ie catching runners, bumps, swells and waves. Swaying
The sideways motion of the canoe perpendicular to the direction of travel along a transverse -sideways axis. This is caused by the steerer offsetting the canoe from a direct path, or from the singular or combined affects of side wind, currents, wave and swells.
Photos Steve West Heemoana Va'a Race Tahiti and below Nuku HIva Outrigger Australia.
Linear Motions | 59
Stability | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Heaving
The up and down motion of the canoe along a vertical, up and down axis, due to movement of the paddlers during the entry and exit phase of the stroke. Also present when the canoe travels up and over waves and swell.
Angular and Rotational Motions Rolling
A rotational motion along the longitudinal, fore and aft axis of the canoe, from one side to the other. Pitching
An angular motion along the transverse (side to side) axis where the bow and stern move alternatively up and down. Very common in the open ocean when paddling into and with the swell and waves. Yawing
A rotational motion along the vertical axis with the bow and stern crossing paths along an imagined straight path.
Displacement Archimedes Principle states; 'Every floating body displaces its own weight of the liquid in which it floats.’ For any vessel to float freely in water, its weight must be equal to the weight of the volume of water it displaces. An outrigger canoe displaces the most water, where its hull has the most volume; where it can also cope with the largest amount of weight without affecting freeboard to the same extent as areas of smaller volume. Therefore, when placing paddlers in the canoe, your heaviest paddlers should sit where the volume is greatest. Photo Steve West Heemoana Va'a Race Tahiti
60 | Angular and Rotational Motions | Displacement
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Draft The depth of water required for the canoe to float freely, measured from the extreme underneath of the hull to the waterline. This is increased as the weight is increased within the hull, resulting in increased drag as the total wetted surface area of the hull increases.
Freeboard Vertical distance from the waterline to the lowest point of the gunnel is called freeboard. Outrigger canoes have only a small freeboard, the maximum being within the centre of the hull, between seats #3 and #4. Though when the canoe is travelling through waves and breaks free of the water, the freeboard at the front and rear of the canoe increases dramatically.
List The canoe is listed, when inclined by forces within the canoe. Movement of paddler’s body weight within the hull is a good example. Paddlers are essentially fixed cargo, however as body weights shift, so to do the effects of list. Skilled paddlers are very aware of the effects of their body weight within the canoe - team or OC1/OC2 - and know to shift their body weight to either increase or decrease compression upon the ama. Excessive water within the canoe will also cause differing degrees of list. Draft | Freeboard | List | 61
Stability | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Heel The canoe is heeled, when inclined by an external force such as wind or wave action.
Trim The longitudinal equivalent of list, measured in terms of the differences in draft, fore and aft. Because the relative speed of a canoe is slow and the hull is of a non-planing type, ideally the canoe needs to be level when loaded with crew on flat water, stationary or in motion. Level canoe trim is achieved by placing paddlers of varying body mass inappropriate seats. Ideally you would expect seats #1 and #6 to be the lightest followed by #2 and #5, then #3 and #4. Trim is an important facet of all water craft, greatly affecting the hull’s efficiency. Exceptions to having level trim, ie having bias of trim towards the bow may have its merits in the case of down-wind or swell paddling, when punching into head winds to reduce the pitching motion of the canoe.
Loll A canoe which floats at an angle from the vertical, to one side or the other, can be considered to possess loll. If disturbed by some external force; wind and or waves, the canoe may tend to move towards that angle of loll. The manner in which the canoe has been rigged often determines how much loll may exist towards (left) or away (right) from the ama. It is common to rig the canoe so that without crew, it lolls marginally to the left. When loaded with paddlers, the hull ideally will level out.
Lightweight - Dead weight The canoes total weight when empty. Dead weight, is the total amount of weight that the canoe can carry, loaded to its maximum draft.
Load Displacement The total weight of the canoe, plus maximum amount of additional weight it can carry, i.e crew. Lightweight + Dead weight = Load Displacement
Centre of Gravity The point at which the whole weight of the canoe can be said to be acting vertically downwards. This position depends upon the weight distribution within the canoe. The height of the centre of gravity is measured vertically from a reference point; usually the keel or hull line. 62 | Heel | Trim | Loll | Light & Deadweight | Load Displacement | C of G
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An outrigger canoe has a very low centre of gravity and is in effect very stable. An empty canoe, afloat at sea in rough water, may remain upright for some time. When the canoe is laden with paddlers, the paddlers become part of the whole, adding weight concentrated on the seats, extending to the hull floor, theoretically lowering the canoe’s centre of gravity and increasing stability. However, the paddlers combined upper body weights, extending above the level of the canoe gunnel, effectively raises the canoe’s centre of gravity. Additionally, the ama position is altered relative to the level of the hull - a light-weight crew is said to be less stable than a heavy one- but paddler heights should be factored in.
Buoyancy Can be considered as an ‘upthrust’ force which acts against a downwards force.
Centre of Buoyancy Essentially this is the geometric centre of the underwater section of the hull.
Transverse Stability When the canoe is in an upright position in still water, the centre of buoyancy and centre of gravity will be positioned in vertical alignment above the keel. If the canoe is inclined by an external force causing heel, a wedge of buoyancy - part of the hull, on the opposing side, will be brought out of the water, while the other side of the hull will be immersed.
Equilibrium and Unstable Equilibrium A state of equilibrium exists for the hull when it is inclined and then returns to the vertical position. A state of unstable equilibrium exists when it is inclined at a small angle and the canoe tends to heel further and is in danger of capsizing.
Moment of Statical Stability (Righting Moment)
This relates to the force involved in returning the hull to an upright position and concerns the weight of the canoe bearing down through the centre of gravity, multiplied by the righting lever. The centre of gravity of a canoe has a distinct effect on the righting lever and therefore the ability of the canoe to return to an upright position. The counterpoise effect of the ama greatly affects the ability of the canoe to return to an upright state, whereby its weight within a limited angle of tolerance is acting to safeguard and return the hull to an upright position safely. Buoyancy | C of B | Transverse Stability | Equilibrium | Statical Stability | 63
Stability | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
When a canoe capsizes, it often pauses at its critical neutral position, at the limits of its righting moment. Should it continue to capsize, it tends to begin its roll in ʻslow motionʼ as the hull continues to brace the roll until it passes through 90º and then accelerates past.
Often capsize can be halted with the ama well past forty- five degrees because of this pause in transition from a state of equilibrium to unstable equilibrium. The canoe rolls onto the flat side of it’s hull which breaks the canoe’s roll.
Stiff and Tender Weight added to a canoe causes the centre of gravity to move in the direction of that weight, i.e it is lowered, making it harder to heel and roll, known as being stiff. However, where that weight is added is significant. A paddler’s weight acts directly downwards, lowering the canoe’s centre of gravity, but the weight is spread between seat level (butt) above the gunnel (torso) and the lower hull (feet). In rough water, as the paddler moves, they move their upper body weight and the canoe can become tender, i.e it heels more readily. A light-weight crew is said to be more tippy than a heavy one, as a heavy crew lowers the canoe’s centre of gravity further; however crew height is a factor as tall paddlers have a higher centre of gravity than shorter paddlers.
Free Surface Effect Mass which moves within the hull, such as water, causes movement of weight affecting list and trim which highlights the need to bail water and to maintain a dry canoe. JOSSPhoto
64 | Stiff & Tender | Free Surface Effect
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7. Rigging
Rigging | 65
Rigging | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Steerers Need to Know How to Rig Of all the positions in the canoe, the steerer is the one who will feel the effects of a poorly rigged canoe more than any other. Therefore, knowing how to rig is an essential requirement of being a steerer, because it enables you to take an active role in the rigging process and ultimately Ęťfine tuneĘź the canoe to your liking.
Photo Steve West
Learning how to fine tune your canoe’s rigging is something of a skill, which requires that you understand some of the objectives of good rigging. You also need to understand how to fine tune the set-up to get the optimum performance out of the canoe and your crew, while making your job of steering as comfortable and trouble free as possible.
A well rigged canoe will be: responsive to your steering; stable without lolling too far left and compressing the ama; hold a relatively straight course without pulling too hard left or right; and the ama will not cause excessive drag or pull, exhibiting clean entry and release. As weight is added to the canoe, both the hull and the ama will sink deeper into the water, increasing the wetted surface area, leading to increased drag and therefore resistance. When rigging, your aim is to ensure that the ama is trimmed appropriately and to ensure that the canoe is not leaning excessively towards the ama, which would compress and sink it more than required to create a stable canoe.
Concerning Stability " The ama acts as a secondary hull, which, because of its contact with the water, creates additional drag. Ideally, we aim to keep that contact with the water to a minimum, so the hull speed can be maximised and the horsepower required to push the canoe through the water, reduced. The closer the ama is attached to the hull, the more the canoe behaves like a single hull, being faster and more responsive, but not necessarily stable." Walter Guild.
66 | Steerers Need to Know How to Rig | Stability
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The primary concern when rigging an outrigger canoe is creating stability, while attempting to keep drag to a minimum. By reviewing Chapter 6, you can get a better understanding of the need for excellence in rigging. In terms of having the rigging widths narrower these days, this is a direct result of greater volume ama and improved skills. An alternate and more accurate measurement involves measuring from the centre of the wa`e - spreader, which equates as the centre of the canoe’s keel line, as ultimately we want to ensure the ama is parallel with the keel line, not the gunnel. A common mistake is to over emphasise the distance between the ama and the primary hull as being the major contributing factor to the canoeʼs overall stability.
While distance from the ama to the hull is significant to stability, it is the height or angle at which you rig the i`ako, front and rear via the use of chocks or shims which has a greater overall effect on the canoe’s ‘feel’ and stability, altering the ama’s trim. This affects its responsiveness and action in the water, which ultimately travels along the i`ako back to the canoe. Provided that the w`ae are the same width, front and rear, then your measurements from the gunnel to centre of the peg, should be equidistant, front and rear, to create a square rig. If there is variation between widths of the w`ae and you measure equal distances from the gunnel to the centre of the peg, then you can assume there will be an equivalent variation, creating a rhombus set up, ie the ama will not be running parallel to the keel line of the hull. To ensure the rig is square and true, measure wae and recalculate distances by adding and or subtracting to arrive at a equidistant measurement, to account for any variation.
Toe-In Toe-in, while still practised by some crews has become a rarity. When acutely curved ama were used, drag caused by the ama sitting deep in the water in its mid point caused excessive pull
Photo Steve West Nappy Napolean Rigging Toe In | 67
Rigging | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Photo Steve West pre-stretching cotton Kailua-Kona
to the left. As a consequence, the ama was toed-in (angled inward) at the front by approximately 5” to 1” relative to the rear, to counter the affects of the pull left. These ama were originally produced for the Malia and Hawaiian Class Racer and affectionately known as the Elephant Tusk. Since ama designs have become straighter with less curvature and greater volume, the trend now is to rig the ama parallel.
Fundamentals In order to fine tune your canoe’s rigging, use rubber or a snaplash to temporarily secure the i`ako to the canoe wa`e at the correct width. Using cord, securely rig the ama to the i`ako, ensuring it is parallel to the canoe’s keel line. Carry your canoe to calm water, float it and observe the trim and loll of both the canoe and the ama. Using a spirit level across gunnel, it should have only marginal loll to the left. If the bubble is in the middle of the spirit level, the canoe is rigged level, but will no doubt feel tippy with crew added. Add the crew, check the spirit level and make an assessment of the canoe’s stability and trim. Make adjustments as required, by adjusting, adding or removing wedges. 68 | Fundamentals
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In rough water, it is said that increasing loll inward towards the ama will increase stability. This is true, however too much loll towards the ama creates an equally unstable canoe which tends to heel radically when affected by external forces. Capsizing ama under is quite possible and often leads to equipment failure. Based on your assessment of the way in which the canoe is rigged, use the wedges to fine tune the rigging. Once satisfied, rig the i`ako to the canoe firmly using rubber, rope or snaplashes as preferred.
The Value of Note Taking It can pay to make a note of how you set up your canoe when it is rigged optimally; distance of the ama from the primary hull, chocks used; their size and placement, etc, so you can repeat it in the future given the use of the same style of canoe, ama and i`ako.
The Use of Wedges, Chocks and Shims The primary means of fine tuning the stability of the canoe, is via the use of wedges, or not as the case may be. Placing wedges between the i`ako and spreader at any one of the four corners, or in combination will alter the canoes loll inward or outward towards the ama. Additionally and importantly, it also alters the trim of the ama. Via careful placement of wedges, you can fine tune not only the trim of the ama, but the canoe hull as well. It is the relationship between the hull trim and the ama trim which is so vital in creating a well mannered, stable, responsive canoe as a collective whole. You want to use the minimum amount of wedging, keeping in mind that the cantilevered affect will multiply out by around 4-fold as it travels the length of the i`ako to the ama; so for every 1" of chock you can expect approximately 4� of rise, or fall if the chock is reversed, outward to where i`ako meets the ama rigging platform.
Note Taking | Use of Wedges | 69
Rigging | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Wedge Positioning Back Right Wedge
Front Right Wedge
Causes canoe to loll away from the ama. The ama rides closer towards its bow, while the stern rides higher.
Causes canoe to loll away from the ama. Front of the ama is raised, riding further back along its leading edge, while the stern rides lower.
Front Left Wedge
Causes canoe to loll towards the ama. Front of the ama is raised, riding further back along its leading edge, while the stern rides lower. A thin wedge of timber, positioned at the edge of the gunnel, between the spreader and the i`ako. The thick end of the wedge varys from a .25�- 2�.
For a more comprehensive look at rigging techniques refer to: "A Paddlers Guide to Outrigger Canoeing' in this series of books. Photo Steve West Hale O Lano rigging day for Moloka`i Hoe
70 | Wedge Positioning
Back Left Wedge
Causes the canoe to loll towards ama. The ama rides closer towards its bow, while the stern rides higher.
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8. Regatta Steering
Regatta Steering | 71
Regatta / Sprint Steering | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Lane Distinction, Flags and Buoys Sprint racing puts a good deal of responsibility on the steerer and there are a number of things you can do prior to your race to avoid confusion; one of the biggest pitfalls of steerers while sprint racing is lane confusion. In addition, there are variations of lane widths, the total number of buoys used to define lanes, and the configuration in which they are placed. uneversally there is no standard. If travelling overseas, pay careful attention to lane configuration and widths, and practice at home accordingly! A 3 lane buoy system. The smaller outer lane markers define your outer lane width, the larger flagged buoy defines the centre of your lane and turn point. The smaller buoys act as a guide to assist the steerer to stay within their lane, more for safety than any other concern. You can stray outside of your lane - as long as you do not interfere or collide with another canoe.
Most sprint courses are set out over a 1/4 mile (402.33m), 250m or 500m course depending on the region and association. Two defining buoy systems are commonly used. One relies upon a 3 buoy system; consisting of 2 small outer lane extremity buoys and 1 larger central flagged buoy. The total lane width, measured between the 2 smaller outer buoys, ranges between countries and associations, as much as 81’-113’ (25-35m). The 3 buoy lane system will on occasion include a central lane marker at the half way point ie the IVF and Australia. Another, more traditional system, relies on a single flagged buoy system as used in Hawai`i and adopted in other areas, with a total lane width between buoys of not less than 80’ (24.6m).
Prior to Your Race Make sure you know the total number of lanes. Check that the flag colours are the same at each end for your lane. Know the colour of your outer lane buoys - if used, either side of your central marker. When practising turns, the turn will be of little value without setting out the outer limits of a lane width, so you can practice what will be required of you. In addition, it is advisable to have a return point, so when you round your marker you can align yourself directly for the return leg. 72 | Lanes | Prior to Race
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Landmarks and Transits If time permits, paddle up at least halfway along your lane, turn and sight your central buoy which should be flagged. Note what is directly behind it if possible, a tree, house, toilet block. This will give you a landmark, so when you make your first turn at the other end, you will be able to see the landmark even if you cannot see your lane buoy at the other end. Depending on the light, it can be hard to rely on colour alone as the flags/buoys may look very similar.
Adjacent Crews If you can, before the race, find out which crews are in the lanes next to you. Do you have any idea of how competitive they are? Are you likely to be ahead, adjacent to or behind at the turn? Know the colour of their canoe and their uneforms, if they are wearing them. In this way, if there is any lane confusion when you are turning, you will be able to identify who was in the wrong. If you lose your way for any reason, and provided the canoe next to you has maintained the correct line and course, they may give you some guidance as to where you should be.
Commands and Instructions With nerves and adrenaline running high at the beginning of the race, confusion is an easy bi-product. As steerer, you will need to contain your paddlers and keep them focused. Demand that they are quiet and focused only on the race and themselves. If you get to the start line and paddlers are asking, ‘How shall we make the turn?’, ‘What is the call going to be?’, it is not a good state of affairs. If it is unavoidable due to a missing or injured paddler, explain the sequence clearly. Either do this yourself or have a paddler you trust, explain the turning procedure (it’s assumed the replacement paddler is familiar with sprint and regatta racing). Ensure the crew listens to you. Whatever you say goes, this is especially important in controlling the canoe. Paddlers should be aware of your commands such as; backpaddle, hold-water, paddles-up or wind off, paddle-ahead and their response should be immediate, rather than loitering as if they couldn’t care less. This being said, the steerer should be the only one talking, with all paddlers keeping a constant ear open for any commands. Their attention should be on the lane (the race) and not on the canoes around them. Landmarks & Transits | Adjacent Crews | Commands & Instructions | 73
Regatta / Sprint Steering | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
A stationary canoeʼs position must also be controlled by the stroker and seat #2. In this respect, they become the bow steerers, assisting to keep the canoeʼs bow or nose into the wind - you may have the canoe with the stern into the wind, depending on wind direction. Your stroker must know what to do and will need to use draw strokes either side to maintain the canoeʼs position.
There is nothing more annoying than having your stroker and seat #2 day dreaming or chatting when they should be focused on keeping the canoe correctly positioned. An additional job of the stroker can be to call out the distance to the start line - ‘Three feet,’ ‘Two foot!’ and so on. When the canoe is close to the line it is hard for the steerer, some 40’ away to judge the line. The stroker can perform a brake stroke or back paddle to keep the canoe behind the line. Seats #3 and #4 can assist moving the canoe up to and away from the line, while seat #5 can assist you, the steerer, if required. In regatta races, the steerer has a lot of responsibility and needs to take charge. You donʼt want a whole lot of shouting going on up the length of the canoe - take charge. If you donʼt know whatʼs going on, pretend you do! Better someone does than know one.
" The crew has to have confidence in the steerer. You have to know the course. Get the canoe on the line in plenty of time. You have to account for any cross-winds and currents, and begin figuring out how you’re going to deal with it. The steerer needs to be very vocal so everyone hits at the same time." Jim Foti.
Race Start Procedures Depending on where you are racing, the start procedures may well vary. You will need to know these rules without ambiguity. Possibly the most significant difference is in the final flag, whether the race begins when it is raised or dropped. Yellow Flag Red Flag Green Flag Green Flag drops
Australia
2 minutes under starter’s orders. 30 seconds until race start. 10 seconds until race start. Race start.
A blast from a sound device may also be used Black flag may be raised during start procedure to indicate canoe/s over the line, and crews must realign accordingly. Red flag may be raised after the race start to cancel the race.
Red Flag White Flag Green Flag
New Zealand
2 minutes under starter’s orders. Indicates canoes are aligned. Race start - white drops simultaneously.
Within 15 metres from the start, if a paddlerʼs paddle breaks, you may raise your paddle and the race will be restarted. 74 | Race Start Procedures
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Yellow Flag - Stationary Yellow Flag - Waved Yellow Flag - Lowered. Red Flag Green Flag
O`ahu Hawaiian Canoe Racing Association
5 minutes under starter’s orders. 5 seconds prior to lowering.
Race will begin within the next 5 seconds. Race start - red drops simultaneously.
A blast from an air horn, pistol or other device will also sound. General recalls will be indicated by 2 or more blasts on an air horn or pistol, and a special recall flag will be raised. At the finish of the race prior to yours, the official boat or a land based shelter, will raise a flag, often green, to indicate that the race was good, with no violations. A red flag raised, indicates a violation, there could be a delay.
White Flag Black Flag Red Flag Green Flag Red Flag - Waved
International Va`a Federation - World Sprints
Canoes must come up to line. Signals an alignment infraction by a canoe. Indicates canoes aligned. Race start - red drops. Airhorn sounded to start race. Cancel race after start.
Within 15 metres from the start, if a paddlerʼs paddle breaks, you may raise your paddle and the race will be restarted.
Observe the starter’s procedure as they tend to repeat a pattern. Be wary of extra pedantic starters who aim for perfect line-ups for every race, they tend to be quick to disqualify for the slightest infraction. Develop the skill of anticipating the start to get a quick getaway. Being extra cautious, by hanging back from the line and loitering will cost you valuable distance. It will also send a message out to other crews that you arenʼt really competitive. Take it up to the line, be assertive and control your canoe using the skills of your paddlers and the command skills you must have as a steerer.
While you may hit your flagged lane buoy at the start, avoid getting your ama and i`ako entangled. Strong crosswinds can sometimes push you up against the marker. Try to start wide of the mark to avoid this.
The Line Up and Start Prior to arriving at the start line, have some idea of the conditions, in particular the wind, direction. Facing the bow of the canoe directly into the wind as close as possible to your flag, will prevent the canoe from being blown all over the place and save you from continually manoeuvring the canoe into position. However this may not always be possible. The wind may be coming from behind, in which case, you can keep the stern of the canoe into the wind, angled as close to your starting lane as possible. The stoker plays a key role in keeping the bow of the canoe correctly aligned and in calling out the distance to the start line - relaying messages back to the crew so they can adjust. The Line Up | 75
Regatta / Sprint Steering | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Positioning the canoe prior to the start taking wind direction into consideration. Stroker and steerer must work together! Arrows show wind direction and relative position of canoe.
The first stroke together is essential. When you anticipate that the starter is within moments of starting the race, paddlers must be reaching out, ready to go, not backing up, talking and rubber necking. If your canoe is incorrectly positioned at this stage, youʼre going to be instantly disadvantaged.
Missing even one stroke off the start, compared to your opponents, can make all the difference. A crew knows a good start when it happens. Holding your position on the start line within your lane can be very difficult in medium to high winds. When waiting for the flags, keep the canoe’s head to wind or stern to wind to minimise being blown out of your lane.
" Get the canoe on the start line in plenty of time. Take into account any cross-wind and current, and begin figuring out what you’re dealing with. While waiting, keep the canoe into the wind - nose or tail. Setting yourself up for a good start is crucial. The steerer needs to tell the crew when to go." Jim Foti. Seats #1 and #2 must assist while the other paddlers are waiting for your commands. When the wind is behind, take the same approach, back paddling to hold position. You want to minimise the effect of the wind on the canoe. Cross-winds present the most problems. The biggest concern you have is ending up tangled on the buoy or being blown into the adjacent lane.
Steering Techniques along the Course The mechanics of good flat water paddling come into play along the course. You will need to paddle steer as much as possible, a lot will depend on the wind and how much it affects the canoe’s direction. When paddle steering, you can pull the back of the canoe over to the left bringing the nose over to the right and vice-versa. So, if the canoe is going slightly off course and the nose is swinging left, you can paddle steer by reaching out from the side of the canoe and pull inwards with the blade to correct the direction without switching sides, and avoiding poking on the right. 76 | Steering Techniques
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You want to paddle as much as you can while keeping the canoe as straight as possible. Use your peripheral vision to be alert to the other canoes and don't loose sight of your marker. Keep time with your crew. With paddle steering, you donʼt want to let the canoe move too far off course, as it will require a lot of effort to correct it, which slows the canoe down. You will have to learn to anticipate and feel if the canoe is moving away on you and catch it early.
Overlapping Adjacent Lanes on the Straight Using the 3 buoy system, you will be working off of your smaller outer lane marker as the limits of your lane. While with the single buoy system, you will be using the opposite adjacent flagged buoy and an imagined half-way point between lanes at the turn. During the race, while turns in themselves present a risk of collision, in the straight section of the race, canoes will sometimes stray into adjacent lanes. You want to avoid a collision at all cost. Don’t get all gung-ho and think that by colliding with them, you can push them out of your lane. Do the right thing and keep clear. A collision will lose you far more time than avoidance. Bottom line is, they run a fair risk of disqualification, or you could protest if you are impeded, so any aggressive act on your part will only work against you and leave you with no upper hand whatsoever. You may have your crew speed up, if possible, or slow down, to avoid a collision or you will have to steer your way out of trouble. Yell out at the other steerer if you think it will do any good! Either way, overlapping into an adjacent lane is generally not grounds for immediate DQ, only if there is a direct infringement or a protest is lodged against that canoe.
" At the moment you sense the canoe drifting off, one or two angled paddle steering strokes will correct it - though the wind factor is always a problem. If there is a strong crosswind, you’re going to kill yourself trying to paddle steer the whole way. If you can correct the canoe quickly with one poke, as opposed to taking six paddle strokes - do it. Paddle steering is definitely a power move. You have to be strong and efficient to pull it off." Jim Foti. Overlapping Adjacent Lanes | 77
Regatta / Sprint Steering | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
The Approach, Set Up and Turn 1. Steerer begins turn - note wide approach to marker. (Wide entry, tight exit) 2. Steerer plants a big poke on the left with a pry, seats #3, #4, #5 back off power. 3. Seats #1, #2 (#5) begin steering strokes, steerer continues poke. 4. Steerer continues pokes, #1 continues steering (kahi), #2 begins pitch stroke. 5. Steerer has begun paddling, #1 continues pitch stroke, all others paddling hard 6. Full crew paddling.
The steerer needs to make as much of the turn as possible, approaching wide and turning early, aiming for the ama to contact the buoy with the rear third of the ama.
" The last thing you want to do to yourself is come in too tight! You need to have a nice angle coming in and be taking your time. You need to be about half-way over in your lane. When you’re about twenty or thirty metres away, you can start angling into it without killing the speed - you want as much speed as you can." Jim Foti. You can pretty much paddle steer into the marker almost ninety degrees into the turn, then execute your poke on the left and call your une (oo-nay). Optimally, you want to rub the marker on the third quarter of the ama length.
" You don’t want to overdo the poke as you will kill the canoe’s speed - poking too hard, too early, too fast. This will save your paddle from breaking by feathering it in and giving it a nice easy angle. Steerers break paddles and damage canoes because they’ve left it too late and they try turning the canoe in one huge poke! Maintain the une for three to five strokes depending on conditions. Rub on that third quarter of the ama, and then release the une. Hopefully you haven’t killed too much speed before you’re off again." Jim Foti. 78 | The Approach and Set Up
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How many times have you seen a lead canoe make a bad turn and come out in 2nd or even 3rd spot? The turns are the business end of sprint racing. You can arrive a canoe length in the lead and come out a canoe length behind.
Rules at the Turn Buoys Canoes round buoys in an anticlockwise direction. Most regions allow the ama to touch the turn buoy, however there are two variations to this. In Hawaii and New Zealand for example, the turning buoys have flags, so if the buoy is inclined due to contact and the flag touches the water the canoe is disqualified [applies to IVF rules also]. In Australia, this is not the case as it is not mandatory to have flags on turn markers.
uneversally, if the buoy passes between the ama and the hull, it is an instant disqualification. While you must stay within your lane as you make the turn (and as you travel along the straight) it is generally not grounds for immediate disqualification if you move into an adjacent lane. However, if your canoe infringes, impedes or collides with another canoe, often directly or indirectly - a protest will usually result.
Disqualification – The buoy flag makes contact with the water as the result of a collision with the ama, i`ako or canoe -not all countries.
Disqualification – If the buoy passes between the ama and the canoe
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Seat #1 performing an uni, Seat #2 a kahi, Seat #5 a stern post/stern kahi.
Steering Combinations at the Front Deciding which combination and sequence of paddlers and steering strokes you wish to use during the turn will depend on a few factors; crew weight, ability, strength, speed into the turn, canoe and ama type, wind and tidal stream conditions. Canoes with greater rocker tend to turn better than canoes with less, this applies also to ama shapes. When competing overseas with either a canoe or ama or both which are different to what you are used to, you must experiment with your turns to determine the canoeĘźs turning radius and whether you need to adjust your technique and combinations!
Assuming seats #3, #4 and #5 back off power for all the turning sequences, these are some possible sequences and techniques. Less strokes will be required by forward seats if the steerer has initiated an early and accurate turn. Seat #1 Options
1. une on right 2-3 strokes, kahi on left 2-3 strokes, then 2-3 pitch strokes on left. 2. une on right for 2-3 strokes, 2-3 draw strokes on left, 2-3 pitch strokes on left. 3. Kahi on left for 2-3 strokes, then 2-3 pitch strokes on left. 4. Kahi on left for 2-3 strokes, then 2-3 draw strokes on left, 1-2 pitch strokes left. 5. Draw stroke left for 3-4 strokes followed by 2-3 pitch strokes left. Seat #2 Options
1. Kahi on left for 2-3 strokes, 2-3 draw strokes left, 2-3 pitch strokes left 2. Draw stroke left for 3-4 strokes followed by 2-3 pitch strokes left. Seat #5 Options
1. Draw stroke right for 3- 4 strokes then change. The least amount of time and strokes required by seats #1 and #2 to pull and steer the canoe the better. The steerer must try to do the majority of steering while timing the approach and turn effectively. An une placed by the stroker on the right, requires seat #2 to kahi or draw left. When stroker and seat #2 draw stroke together - they must stay in time. 80 | Steering Combinations at the Front
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Consider what side does your stroker need to be on when the turn is called? If left and they une - they will change sides and probably use a reverse grip. If right and they une - they will use a conventional grip. When the stroker comes over to the left to kahi or draw, they will be on the same side as #2. When the next ‘hut’ is called, after the turn has been made, they must stay on that side! It is important another ‘hut’ is called shortly after, to keep your stroker fresh for a fast restart.
Overlapping Lanes at the Turn Buoy (3 Buoy Lane System)
Crossing into the adjacent lane Three buoy system. Total lane width is measured between the 2 outer, smaller buoys which are generally set out at 81ʼ-113ʼ (25-35m).
Crossing into the adjacent lane on either side of the lane marker is not always a direct disqualification, however if it results in a collision, a DQ is usually immediate. If there is a less obvious obstruction which causes the canoe in this adjacent lane to take action to avoid a collision or not, they can protest and appeal for your disqualification. Be sure to check your local rules and check when competing overseas.
Overlapping Lanes at the Turn Buoy (Single Buoy System)
Crossing into the adjacent lane. Single buoy system. Total lane width is 80ʼ+ (24.6m).
Where two canoes approach each other from opposite directions within the same lane, each canoe should occupy as nearly as possible the one-half width of the lane nearest its own line of flags, so that the
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3 buoy lane system.
canoes will pass each other between adjoining flags. If interference is claimed, the canoe not in its assigned lane will be disqualified.
Common Collisions and Near Miss Situations Single lane system.
A slower canoe, wide in its lane, is met by a leading canoe which has turned and crossed into the adjacent lane causing a nose to nose collision - alternatively a nose to tail collision results where the infringing canoe crosses into the adjacent lane of a canoe which is beginning its turn.
Race Finish Once again, there may be some variance. But as a general rule, you must start and finish within your lane as designated by the outer extremity, smaller lane markers or within your half of your lane when using the single flagged buoy system.
Races involving turns require you start and finish with your numbered lane buoy to your left. Always check your region to ensure compliance.
Races without turns generally permit you to start and finish on either side of your numbered lane buoy. 82 | Common Collisions | Race Finish
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9. Open Water
JOSSphoto Open Water | 83
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You Can’t Teach That By the time you are out in an ocean environment, you will have hopefully mastered some of the finer points of steering in calm to choppy waters and in a variety of wind strengths. Thereʼs no escaping the fact that a flat water steerer cannot be taught how to become a proficient ocean steerer. It is, in short, something of a mystery, on another level of thought, of feel and touch, beyond any substantial explanation. Photo Steve West Heemoana Tahiti Lanikai CC
The transition to this new environment needs to be a smooth one, with you steering in increasingly challenging waters, learning by feel and experimentation. You already know how to manoeuvre the canoe, know the strokes to take, but now they have to be quicker, more precise, often with more force, without hesitation and your sense of anticipation will need to go up a notch or two. Added to this, you will get the feeling that everything is happening a little faster, sometimes with a good deal more intensity and at times the canoe is in charge, not you. Now, not only do you have to think about the canoe’s travel and direction, but you will often feel that you are fighting to keep the canoe from capsizing, on top of all your other concerns. Your role as a steerer suddenly takes on a new meaning, a new level of difficulty, but ultimately a new level of fun and excitement. 75% or more of what you will ever learn as a steerer, is not going to come from this manual or from talking to other steerers: it will come from being out on the water, testing yourself, gaining confidence in your abilities. You will then become increasingly proficient and skilled in getting the most out of your canoe and crew, so you are no longer fighting the elements, but working with them.
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A New Level of Thought To go beyond merely holding the canoe on course, you will have to make the process an intellectual one. You will have to be in tune with the ocean, canoe and crew, whether you’re aware of it or not. You will need to be constantly thinking and anticipating. At the end of many big rough water races, or training sessions, a steerer often feels more mentally than physically drained, having had to be so fully focused.
Jim Foti working both sides of the canoe during the 1995 Moloka`i Hoe. Big conditions, fast water demands quick reflexes and anticipation. In this instance, keeping the canoe on line and stable are paramount, often achieved with the help of seat #5.
Steering in rough water can be quite a stressful experience. Over time, as your abilities Photo Steve West 1995 Moloka`i Hoe improve, your threshold levels for stress will rise. Even the best steerers feel like they are living on the edge at times, but revel in the challenge to be the best they can be and get the most out of the canoe. Things that you used to have to consciously think about, will in time, be replaced by instinctual moves and reactions.
Learn to Trust Your Judgement At some point, you will learn to trust your first instinctual judgement, which will come with confidence, experience and ultimately wisdom. This is an important transition for any steerer who has learned their skills well. A New Level of Thought | Trust Your Judgement | 85
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" Rather like balancing a ball on the end of your nose, you move left and right in anticipation of it falling off, to counteract the canoe’s movement." Todd Bradley.
Finesse, Not Brute Strength As conditions become rougher and or bigger, it is tempting to muscle your way through the worst of it, when really what you really need is finesse. As you begin running with the wind and swell, you will become more of a rudder and less of a motor, but you will have to learn how to do this efficiently, to minimise drag and the time you spend ‘poking’. Your moves will need to be subtle, well timed and executed, always anticipating how the canoe will react.
Paddle Smoothly and in Time While you are going to want to paddle as often as you can, keep in mind that no amount of paddling can replace your skill at positioning the canoe on a fast moving ʻrunnerʼ so the canoe begins to effectively surf.
Don’t over-paddle and don’t under-steer. Find a balance and consider what’s the best option at the time. When you do paddle, do so smoothly as the sixth paddler; enough so the crew can feel your efforts, but not with a sudden kick that throws their rhythm off. When you do paddle, make sure you are in time! When you are paddling, you must be as disciplined and diligent as the rest of the crew in being in time. They will know if you’re not, and this will affect their rhythm.
Positioning the Drop-In, Running with the Wind Behind As the canoe begins to drop-in to a wave ahead of you, provided you have anticipated a good line and set the canoe up so it is travelling straight, a few big strokes can make all the difference in helping accelerate the canoe and push it onto the wave. The crew will feel this and respond accordingly. With seat #5, you can make a huge difference, working as a team in applying this technique. Once the canoe effectively takes off and gains speed into the wave, you can then choose to continue paddling or 'poke’ to keep the canoe on course, this is a critical time when the canoe can pull right or left quite abruptly. If it heads left, you will 86 | Finesse Not Brute Strength | The Drop In
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have a fight on your hands as the ama acts to pull you around, which is why you want to avoid taking off with any degree of left turn. Dropping in straight down the back of a wave, you can then nudge the canoe on an angle relative to the wave in order to prevent the ama from burying at the front, which can slow the canoe and allow the wave to overtake you. Experiment with dropping in then getting a little angle happening; the bigger the waves, the more effective this technique.
Photos Steve West Heemoana Tahiti
In this photo, you can see that the canoe pulls dramatically left and the steerer is fighting to pull it back on track. A huge amount of drag is caused by
Recognising a ‘Runner’ Ahead of You Looking ahead, aim for the low spots, the troughs. Don't look over your shoulder, it's all ahead of you and within a 15 degree radius either side. In theory, the swells are travelling slower than you are and up and down, while the wind blown surface waves are moving quickly with the wind. The trick is to identify a bump or runner wave as its forming. When the canoe passes over it as it forms, it will kick in from behind and provide lift. Setting the nose in a downwards incline will provide acceleration and the crew will need to react with a few big strokes, followed by tapping the canoe along to maintain good speed. Remember, the wave which comes up behind you is not necessarily the one that’s going to pay off; it’s the one you don’t see starting to form. You have to anticipate and feel for the wave that is forming. Don’t knock your crew out having them try to catch unrideable waves. It’s a waste of their energy. Pick what you chase wisely. You’re feeling for the waves; in your butt and with your instinct, not just looking. Recognising A Runner Ahead of You | 87
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You’ll notice the ocean flatten out ahead of you and then you begin to anticipate, start feeling. The ocean begins to rip and tear open as a wave is about to form and this is where you want to put your canoe. OC1 paddling is the single best training a steerer can use for improving their ocean steering skills, as all that you need to learn about catching runners can be learned on this ‘one to one basis’; just you, the ocean, canoe and paddle. Keep in mind that it is the fast moving sea or waves moving on the surface which provide the most speed out in the open water, not the bigger swells. Learn to distinguish the difference and don’t be fooled into chasing the big stuff, when it is the smaller, rough upper layers that will pay off and ultimately put you on the bigger swells. Learn to read the difference between ground swells (the larger, longer deeper sections which tend to pick you up and throw you around) as opposed to the sea running on top, created by prevailing winds which will to push you along and provide you with much of the speed and assistance you are looking for.
The ‘Sweet Spot’ The sweet spot is a steererʼs expression for finding that certain position on a wave where the canoe seems to be running on rails, being almost pulled and willed along by some unknown force.
In truth, it is simply when a wave is in just the perfect spot under the hull and all other factors are optimum. Keeping that sweet spot for as long as you can, working a path between the swells and waves is a real challenge but one which keeps your senses keen and your thrill of steering alive. The sweet spot can be very elusive and it’s important to note that it exists at different points in different canoe designs, be they OC6, OC2 or OC1. It may be more forward, more in the middle or more towards the rear. Conditions will therefore suit some canoes better than others.
88 | The Sweet Spot
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Photo Steve West Heemoana Race Tahiti
Anticipation and Concentration Anticipation is a word you hear a lot when talking of open ocean steering. By anticipating the canoe’s movements as it is constantly bombarded with the pushes and pulls of the variables of the oceans movements, you can prevent it from moving off in a contrary direction and keep your energy expenditure and control most efficient. You do this by staying focused on the hull of the canoe, feeling how it is interacting with the ocean. You need to catch its wandering early. Anticipation takes great concentration and you will find you may go quiet as you focus on your steering, rather than maintain motivation of your crew.
Physical and Mental Endurance In the longer change-over races, you will discover the benefits of being efficient and economical in your energy expenditure, you will especially want to avoid long periods of paddle and power steering as this will take its toll. Lots of short poking and alternating sides, mixed with some paddling-conditions permitting, is preferable. Physically and mentally, long change-over races are tough, building character and skill. You will need to find your own unique way of dealing with these factors. Clearly you need to be one of the fittest and mentally toughest paddlers in the crew.
Bobbing You will often see steerers bobbing, moving back and forth in time with their paddlers as they poke. This is to provide some movement and propulsion as opposed to being a total dead weight, it also keeps the steerer attentive to the rhythm, cadence and timing of the crew.
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When you go to take a stroke, you will find that you are more readily in sync’ with the crew. This technique can be used in all conditions.
The Capsize Factor Keep in mind that when poking on the right hand side, the ama is inclined to lift, especially if you poke and then add a pry. Realistically, anything you do on the off side has the potential to cause instability.
When poking on the right, learn to twist to the right, pushing your left shoulder forward, extending your arm over the left side of the canoe. When you paddle, you will find that 85% of your paddling time will be spent paddling on the left side, where you can power up with confidence, safeguarding the ama. When you do poke on the off side (right) and the ama lifts, close it down by throwing your weight on to your left hip or change sides and take a big stroke to compress the ama (seat #5 should also react to compress it back down). A steerer who continually ʻpopsʼ the ama is a great annoyance to the crew, making them feel anxious and consequently there's a loss of power.
The Straightest Route. Not Always the Quickest Keep in mind that the fastest way between two points is not necessarily following a straight line. Falling off 90 | Capsize | The Quickest Route
www.kanuculture.com Photo Steve West Hawaiki Nui Va`aTahiti
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Open Water | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering' Photo Steve West Hawaiki Nui Va`a Tahiti
and rounding up continually along a leg of a course can pay off with the extra speed that you get. If the canoe accelerates and falls off line only marginally, don’t rush to straighten your course up again as the drag can kill the speed. Sometimes the canoe will pull itself back on line, due to the wave action in contact with the hull. Letting the canoe run away to some degree, can be a good way to find the canoe’s sweet spot. As long as it has plenty of hull speed, don’t rush to over control the canoe on all occasions.
Handling Variants Between Canoe Designs Whether steering an old Malia, Hawaiian Class Racer, Bradley, Force 5, Mirage, Clipper or any one of a number of canoe designs, they all have a different feel, level and point of responsiveness. When Sonny Bradley’s, Bradley canoe was introduced, steering took on a whole new concept, because the canoe was far more responsive to the steerer’s pokes. While the Hawaiian Class Racer of the time had a smaller overall volume and very much less ‘rocker’ (hull curvature fore and aft) the Bradley was very much the opposite. The Hawaiian Class Racer, was and is by comparison much less responsive and tends to ‘track’ as if on rails; i.e. once it decides to head off in a particular direction, it can be very hard to recover. The Bradley, with its larger volume and greater rocker, was and is less prone to stalling and bogging down, due to the increased volume and it is far more responsive to the steerer’s pokes. The added curvature ensures that the canoe fits better into the waves and that it’s ‘footprint’ remains relatively constant, as its contact with the ocean shifts fore and aft. Over-steering is a genuine problem for steerers new to ocean paddling and more especially in canoes designed for downwind paddling conditions. Your anticipation has to be very quick as you learn to control a lively, responsive canoe. 92 | Handling Variations Between Canoes
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The Role of Seat #5 in Rough Water An important consideration for crew selection when the water is likely to be rough, is to select a seat #5 paddler who has steering knowledge and ability. This is the steerer’s assistant or reserve steerer, who will help steer at critical times and in addition, safe-guard the ama. When the canoe runs away on you to the left, and you find yourself locked up on the right, trying to steer the canoe back around, the ama can be at risk. The reaction of seat #5 should be to instinctively protect the ama, by making sure they are on the left, using a stern post, stern kahi or pitch stroke to assist pulling the canoe right and to compress the ama. In this respect, seat #5 and the steerer need to work very closely together as a team. You may need to educate and groom your seat #5 so they know what is expected of them. You may want to work out a system of communicating to them what you need, or you can rely on them to react instinctively, which ultimately is the best scenario.
Running the Cliffs Many races tempt crews to hug steep, rugged cliffs, which present a whole new level of risk and anticipation. This is precision steering at its best in many ways and requires, nerve, confidence and genuine skill. The pay off is that you may well cover less distance than other crews who stay wide, you may avoid adverse tidal streams and pick up surges off the rock walls, known as, back runners. Photo Harvie Allison Hamilton Cup Australia
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The angle at which you position your canoe relative to the rock wall is critical. Contrary to what you may feel comfortable with, you will want to angle the bow towards the wall between 15º and 20º depending on the size of the incoming swell. As the wave rushes in to the rock wall, the canoe naturally lifts for a moment, then drops as the surge passes. The nose will appear to roll toward the wall which is very disconcerting, however, as the backwash rushes back off the wall, it impacts with the bow and pushes the nose away and the stern towards the wall. As the nose bears away from the wall and inclines, it’s time to paddle hard and link up with the back runner. This type of steering requires a bit of zig zagging and meticulous attention to rock outcrops as well as rogue in-coming waves. You will need to rely on your stroker to take drastic, instant action in order to avoid any possible collisions and impacts. If you fail to have the canoe angled towards the wall sufficiently and the stern facing away, the stern and rear of the ama - if ama is against the wall, may end up being spun around into the wall. Your poking and timing will need to be spot on. Far from being obvious, the waves and swell which a canoe steerer seeks are often complex and not always obvious. In addition, they can come in fast succession and often lend themselves to being linked. With careful placement, the canoe can become a part of a syncopated percussion of ride after ride after ride, sometimes called ʻjoining the dotsʼ.
Punching Upwind A Marquesan friend of mine once told me that the Marquesans, rather than paddle directly into the wind, prefer to zig-zag their way upwind, just enough to take the sting out of being battered by a head wind and oncoming swell and waves. So, rather than punching straight into oncoming waves and swell, roll over the tops by veering off marginally. The canoe will land more softly, it will often remain dryer and your stroker can keep pace a little better.
Photo Steve West Hamilton Cup Australia
94 | Running the Cliffs | Punching Upwind
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When punching straight into a head wind, consider zig zagging very marginally to lessen the effects. Be careful not to expose too much of the side of the canoe. Rather than punching straight into oncoming waves and swell, it can sometimes pay to 'rollʼ over the tops by veering off marginally. The canoe will land more softly, it will often remain dryer and your stroker can keep pace a little better.
The Flat Spots When punching upwind into choppy seas with some degree of swell, keep a look out for flat spots which open up to you. At this point, it’s important to recognise this opportunity for you to paddle hard and lift the crew’s power and rating in working the flat spot for all its worth. Strokers are in the best position to see this.
Swell striking your quarter relative to where you want to go, will tend to lift and ʻcorkscrewʼ the canoe, which can make for hard work.
On Your Quarter
Consider ʻbearing awayʼ and run with it to gain speed and run a more zigzagged course. Remember the fastest way between two points may not be straight.
When the swell and breeze are on your quarter, in larger seas and or rough water, it can be a struggle to maintain control as the canoe lifts and essentially corkscrews off the top of each successive wave or swell as they pass under you. As you pick up speed and out-run these bumps you can gain some control back and make good progress. If the weather is coming from left to right across your ama,
Swell from behind your right quarter, tends to push the canoe right and vice-versa. Flat Spots | On Your Quarter | 95
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the canoe can feel twitchy and the windage against the canoe will want to turn you left, and conversely if from right to left, the canoe will want to round up to the right. If you are travelling fast enough, with assistance from prevailing swell or tide and you have a strong crew, you can use the elements to your advantage and gain great bursts of speed. You may consider bearing off on occasion so the breeze is angled more directly behind you, but remain aware of your intended destination.
Windage The sheer size of an OC6 makes it a sitting duck as far as feeling the affects of strong wind. Tahitian canoes are designed with reverse transoms to reduce windage. The larger the overall size and volume of the canoe above the water line, the harder it can be to control in high winds. In all cases, whether rounding turn marks or steering out in open ocean - the wind is going to be a constant consideration. Steering while compensating for high winds buffeting the canoe, constitutes a high percentage of a steererʼs workload. The wind can be your best friend or your worst nightmare given its angle of attack against the canoe. As much as you are in charge of a water craft, aerodynamics play a big part in the scheme of things.
Bouncing the Back of the Canoe This technique has been used by some and thought to work - however in open ocean conditions it is best to steer and paddle, and avoid such techniques which may work once in a while, but with negligible gains. This technique is sometimes used in canoe surfing, where waves are much steeper.
" To master the blending of steering techniques, a certain amount of inherent feeling is necessary. Knowing how the canoe will react in different conditions, feeling movements before they occur and anticipating corrections before they happen, need to be natural. Letting the canoe flow instead of fighting to remain straight, is critical. The canoe can move up to 10º off its mark at any time without being off course. You need to let the canoe find its way - you are only there to help get it there." Jim Foti.
Preventing the Ama from Being ‘Swamped’ With the canoe being hit square on from the right side, the ama takes the brunt of the canoe’s heel to the left, which can cause it to be buried deep, causing a great deal of drag and stress on the rigging. In this instance, the steerer’s concern is to ensure that the ama is not swamped. As the wave moves across and pressure from the ama is reduced, be careful to straighten up and anticipate that it may pop back up as it releases - the greater the volume within the ama, the more likely this will be.
96 | Windage | Bouncing The Canoe | Preventing Ama Swamping
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10. Change Overs
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Communication is Key Picking up relief paddlers is a skillful task which requires excellent communication between all parties; boat driver, coach - change chart manager, paddlers and steerer. Being systematic throughout the entire process is essential. If ever there is ever going to be a time when confusion, miscommunication and errors occur, this is it. With two crews of equal abilities, the one executing the better changes will win.
The Basic Drop Off and Pick Method Because the steerer is under a good deal of pressure during the change over, it is vital that they are aware of all the procedures. The steerer in many respects is the central player in the change over, helping to coordinate sequences and ensure a good approach towards the relief paddlers. Prior to the race, the steerer and paddlers will be aware of the sequence; at least for the first few, as things can alter as you get further into the race. The procedure using a 1, 3, 5 sequence
Support boat approaches and calls out to the steerer ‘Changing 1, 3, 5’ and then repeats it. Card numbers may also be used. The steerer must acknowledge that they have understood the changes required by nodding their head, waving, or calling out, ‘OK, got it!’ If you can’t hear or aren’t sure, have them repeat it. The support boat heads off at a 90º to the canoe and makes a big arc, preferably on the non-ama side, drifting across the canoe’s path some 400m or more ahead. Relief paddlers remain on the support boat until the steerer acknowledges that he has seen their position, by waving his paddle above his head, at which point, paddlers jump in and swim into position. While the support boat is moving into position, the steerer calls out ‘Changing 1, 3, 5’ and the paddlers need to acknowledge that they have heard.
98 | Communication is Key | Basic Drop Off & Pick Up Method
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Begin to calculate your best angle of pick-up relative to your swimmers, who should by now be sorted and spaced, arms raised to assist you eyeballing their whereabouts, especially in rough or big water.
Paddlers will then unzip in sequence at their discretion. The paddler furthermost from the bow unzipping first, in this instance seat #5 calling out, ‘Five unzipping, five paddling’ followed by seat #3. Seat #1 leaves their unzipping as late as possible to prevent water entering at the most critical point. Alternatively, the steerer may call out when they want paddlers to begin unzipping in this case calling out ‘Five Unzip’ and so on. The steerer approaches the swimmers. Donʼt aim the canoe straight at them. They need to approach the canoe with legs out behind them, swimming in towards the canoe gunnel at an angle of around 45º.
Naturally you want your #5 and #3 paddlers to pass under the i`ako. Approach so the paddlers are approximately half the total distance of the width of the ama from the hull, and the remainder they will have to work for. The steerer calls out, ʻPaddles upʼ telling the paddlers to lock their paddles into the paddle holder within the hoop, then call, ʻOut!ʼ to signify you want them to roll out of the canoe together.
It is essential the paddlers exit together so they don’t fall on top of one another, and make sure they all exit on the right. Problems can include; feet caught in covers by exiting paddlers which can threaten to capsize the canoe; paddles being flipped out of Basic Drop Off & Pick Up Method | 99
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Locating relief paddlers can be a challenge in rough seas.
Taking a look to see where the swimmers are, poking on the right. This Koa canoe has a very high seat and little freeboard and the steerer is able to move out over the side of the canoe.
the canoe; and of course jammed zippers leaving a paddler struggling to exit. Be aware that these paddlers will pass by on your right, so they are at risk of being hit by your paddle. You will want to be on the left side - to also protect the ama. Keep your eye on the swimmers as they are your primary concern, while also ensuring the canoe’s safety.
The swimmers grab the canoe, pull up and in, and grab their paddle. Seat #1 should zip up immediately, to prevent water entering, calling out ‘One zipping, One paddling’ followed by seat #3 then #5 who have already begun paddling. In the case of rough water, all should zip up immediately, but still call out in sequence that they are zipped and paddling.
Bailing Whenever paddlers enter the canoe, they bring with them a good deal of water, combining with whatever has entered via the opened cover. As the middle seats enter, they can check for water and bail if required. Once again the steerer can call this, or it can be left to the discretion of the paddler. 1” of water in the bottom of an OC6 canoe weighs approximately 220lbs (100kg). Water is your enemy. Keep the canoe dry! Throughout most of the process, the steerer is responsible for calling out commands and ensuring the safety of the canoe.
100 | Basic Drop Off & Pick Up Method | Bailing
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Missed Paddlers and Hangers On Some changes will go horribly wrong. Paddlers miss the side of the canoe and drift on by, while some will fail to make good contact with the canoe, with little chance of recovery. If they canĘźt be helped in, it sometimes pays to let them go, to be collected by the support boat. Important: Sometimes missed paddlers are not seen by the support boat, so make sure the support boat is aware of them as soon as you can.
Changing Steerers Picking up other paddlers is a skill, but replacing yourself is even more challenging. There are a few variations, however the most crucial concern is to make sure that your relief steerer makes contact and is certain to get in. If you jump and the relief steerer misses, then the canoe will be without steerer. In rough water this is especially important. In flat water, if skill levels permit, the steerer can exit before the relief steerer makes contact with the canoe, which follows the usual procedure as for a paddler exit; lock the paddle into the holder just prior to exit, then go.
If exiting with other paddlers in rough water, you will be the last to unzip. Moving out of your seat, work your way up so you are sitting on the rear cover, with your feet on the seat - conditions permitting. Maintain control of the canoe by continuing to steer. As your replacement makes contact with the canoe, be sure they have connected. As they make their way into the canoe, pass them the paddle at an appropriate time, usually as you are removing your feet from the seat and just about to fall over the right side of the canoe. Be careful not to fall onto exiting paddlers. Common mistakes include, taking the paddle with you, or the replacement steerer fails to enter the canoe. You fall out and the canoe has no steerer.
Alternatively, go through the motions as per a normal change over, locking the paddle into the hoop just before the replacement steerer makes contact with the gunnel of the canoe and exit as they make contact. ItĘźs a little tricky as you want to maintain control over the canoe for as long as possible. Choose a
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suitable stretch of water to make the change if possible. Make sure you practice steerer changes, it is not an easy task, yet one of the most critical changes to get right the first time.
Steerer locks paddle in and exits at same time as paddlers. In flat water and with appropriate skill levels, this is an efficient way to change your steerer. 102 | Changing Steerers
www.kanuculture.com Photo Steve West Saipan Micronesian Cup
11. Strategies
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Race Strategies and Preparation The concept of race strategy and preparation is a complex issue, it is however what sets apart those crews who take their racing seriously from those who ‘also raced’. Ultimately it is a form of management. The steerer’s role in this entire process is paramount, hence this section is included. Assume control, take the initiative as captain. Preparation is primarily a pre-race strategy for success. A race strategy is the bringing together of all the facets of that pre-race preparation when on the start line and once the race begins, to ensure the greatest success.
Preparing a number of weeks out from an event, even months, constitutes good planning, whereas planning when on the start line could be considered a strategy for disaster. Generally the longer the race, the greater the importance of planning and the greater the amount of preparation needed.
Pre-Race Preparations Over the course of time leading up to an event, months, weeks and days, various pre-race preparations will need to be considered as part of your strategy for success. Selection of a training regime, discussing how to deal with problems - capsize, paddler injury, equipment failure, support boat breakdown - hydration, food, selection of equipment to be used (if possible) including checking and carrying out maintenance on covers, bailers, rigging, bungs, ama, i`ako, canoe, seats, paddles. Support boat selection if required, payment issues, driver knowledge, change chart or coach needs, medical kit, paddler medications.
Rigging box with all necessary tools and materials, supplies required on support boat, payment of fees, registration, eligibility, divisions, pre-race food and hydration needs, time and day of race, briefing time on race day, meeting place and time, travel arrangements, accommodation, paddler availability.
Pre-Race Analytical Considerations Various pre-race analytical considerations will help form the basis for success. For many races, the course is decided upon only a few days out and there are often alternative courses in place to allow for poor weather conditions. However, having some idea of the race area is at least a greater benefit than having no idea. 104 | Race Strategy & Prep | Pre Race Prep
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Analyse the race course, use charts and maps, consider tide states and direction, prevailing winds, sea states, prevailing swells, currents, crew selection suited to conditions, length of race, expected duration. Analyse the start line, noting the time of race and ĘťexpectedĘź conditions, reading weather charts, listening to local forecast. Use webbased weather prediction sites. View the race course and travel over it via boat beforehand if required.
All these considerations help to build a picture of the nature of the race so you can begin considering your preferred race strategy - course to take, change over points, starting line position, etc.
Race Day Preparation Check actual conditions against predicted, ensuring the course is the same and has not been altered, checking all equipment and rigging, rig canoe appropriate to conditions attach spare paddle, bailers, check bungs, ama, ensure paddlers are aware of race course and any alterations, start procedure, registration, support boat checks, attend briefing, ensure all paddlers are fit and present, hydration systems in place, food if required, confirm change-over sequences, team talk or meeting, speak with individual paddlers to motivate, establish start crew for longer change races.
Race Strategy Your race strategy is putting into practice the pre-race analysis which you have formulated. Having confirmed the course, and having checked the actual conditions, you can now put into place your plan; position on start line, course to take and the manner in which you will run your race, etc.
The Three Basic Strategies Three basic strategies are used in sprint paddling events and these include; lead and pace, even pace, and negative split.
Because outrigger canoeing is often practised in adverse weather and sea conditions, it is important to be adaptable. A relatively static, flat water course provides for a number of strategies, but as conditions deteriorate, options tend to be limited as the event turns into a matter of survival of the fittest. Regatta / Sprint distances vary from 1/4, 1/2, 1, 11/4 and 11/2 mile, 500m, 100m and 1500m. Each requires a different strategy. The key issue; the more turn, the more technical the race becomes. Race Day Prep | Race Strategy | Three Basic Strategies | 105
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Lead and Pace Used for short sprint racing in particular, where the object is to establish an early lead and to hold on until the end, putting psychological pressure on the opposition. Training for this race strategy must be specific, as it requires paddling at maximum pace for as long as possible.
Because timing and technique are critical to OC6 paddling, and because the lead and pace method requires maximum pace at the outset, the crew must be well disciplined to rate high and be able to make a transition to a longer slower sub-maximal rate in a smooth and efficient manner. The first strokes of the race are crucial with minimal blade slippage, therefore good paddle skills and a high degree of strength are required.
Even Pace Essentially this requires the race to be broken up into two equal parts. The intention here is to attempt to cover the first section of the race at a pace which is less than maximum, with the intention of finishing the second half of the race with greater intensity and pace. This requires a high degree of discipline, it means being behind at the start and saving energy for the second half of the race. Even pace may work fine in calm conditions; if conditions deteriorate the plan could be affected.
Negative Split More suited to longer sprint races, the concept relies upon constantly improved upon intermediate times, i.e. progressive build up of speed to the finish. Technically very difficult to implement.
Strategies Over Distance Most successful canoe crews have fast starts and the ability to maintain a high average hull speed throughout the race, having enough in reserve for a fast finish. Excellence in the ʻtechnical seatsʼ is also key; steering and stroking. In many respects this a ʻLead and Paceʼ strategy which most top crews seem to adopt.
A fast start is crucial to avoid collisions and adverse wake, and in many respects the lead and pace approach seems to bring big benefits in this regard. High intensity off the start line, employing a high stroke rate, which lengthens and slows with only a marginal drop in intensity over the first few minutes is the key. Dominating the start of a long race and establishing a good position within the first 15 minutes of racing is important as it seems that there comes a point where positions often remain unchanged within any given race. There are many ways to break this 15 minutes down; the first 30 seconds, the next 60, the next 2 minutes... 106 | Lead and Pace | Even Pace | Negative Split | Strategies
www.kanuculture.com Photo Steve West Bora Bora
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Top crews tend to mix a blend of near maximal and sub- maximal paddling throughout the race, ie 75% - 90% effort. This is particularly true where a race course includes following sea and wind conditions. Additionally, some crew’s will have an advantage depending on their preference for rough or smooth water, upwind or downwind paddling. Knowing your crew’s abilities and optimum performance conditions will play a big part in your race strategy. Playing to your crews strengths is vital in order to optimise performance.
The Start It’s essential that the steerer takes the initiative to ensure a good start of any race.You must take control of the situation and make your intentions clear, positioning the canoe in a good spot early on the start line, while ensuring the canoe is under control and lined up appropriately. In big races, where there are many canoes on the start line and when conditions are adverse, collisions are common and you will want to avoid these - however you cannot account for other steerers losing control of their canoe or those who are aggressive in nature and use ramming tactics. Many crews will try to line up beside fast crews who know what they are doing but then you are more likely to end up log jammed. If you are a relatively slow crew, it may be a good idea to line up behind a fast crew, not beside them, so you have a clean run behind in their wake. It does pay to know your limitations at times.
When the start of the race comes, make sure you are paddling not poking! This can be achieved if the canoe is aligned appropriately and free from other canoes infringing on your space. Your paddling will help a fast start.
After the Start After a few minutes into the race, you will be jostling for position, eyeballing the best line, seeing where the top crews are headed or if you are out in front, you will have to begin putting your own stamp on the race as leader. Avoiding collisions with other crews is still a priority; out- paddle, out-steer but avoid actual physical contact with another canoe if at all possible. Settle your crew, find your pace and line and remember to continue communicating to them words of encouragement, motivational prompts, etc.
Remember to look over your shoulder, don’t get tunnel vision. It’s OK to cover an overtaking canoe from behind, i.e move left or right to prevent a canoe from passing, but once it has established an overlap you should and in some countries, must, give way. This can be detrimental to your own game plan and ultimately an exercise in folly. On occasion, fast crews get ‘bingled’ up at the start and then come marching back up the field. Realistically, if they’re very quick and you’re not so fast, it would 108 | The Start | After The Start
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be smart to let them go as it’s fairly inevitable that they’ll get past at some point, don’t make it to your detriment. Choose your battles carefully. Though you have your race plan, be flexible. Keep your options open as many things can occur during the course of a race - the longer the race, the greater the number of variables which occur. You will have to make judgement calls at some stage and this may mean being bold and courageous in order to counter a situation and improve your position.
Dealing with Problems There’s no question that things do go wrong from time to time. Equipment failure, capsize, paddler problems and so on. These eventualities should have been covered during training and should not be something which creates great confusion and stress if they eventuate. How you deal with problems is the mark of a well trained and disciplined crew. The steerer, above all, should maintain composure and if need be take control of the situation.
" It’s how you react to the obstacles thrown in front of you and the speed at which you react to them that makes a good steerer." Tom Conner.
Collisions, T- Bones and Rounding Markers Accidental collisions occur, no doubt. Yet many could be avoided. If you believe that as a genuine part of your race strategy and steering style, you should deliberately collide with other canoes, then you need seriously rethink this approach. Above all other considerations, it’s dangerous, reckless and irresponsible behaviour that can injure people and damage valuable equipment. Over the years, I have witnessed and heard of broken arms, ribs and even a broken jaw. If this practice isn’t illegal yet where you live, it should be. It’s not uncommon for this to go horribly wrong and for the rear canoe to end up driving up and over the rear cover of the forward canoe or end up striking the Right. This is your classic ʻT-Boneʼ, where the steerer ʻdeliberatelyʼ or ʻaccidentallyʼ clips the rear of the leading canoe; usually while rounding a buoy. The fact is, itʼs a 50/50 bet each way who will come off better. The clipped canoe, which tends to veer left as a result, could still end up preventing the rear canoe from passing if they become entangled. To make matters worse, if there are other canoes coming up quickly from behind, the slow down could lead to a multiple pile up. Photo Chris OʼKieffe Problems | Collisions | T Boning | 109
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steerer or seat #5 paddler. This is not a bonafide race strategy if you want to remain a steerer of credibility over the long run. Regrettably many race rules do not cater for issues of rounding marks and buoys, overtaking situations, rights of way and so on and as a consequence some steerers figure that itʼs open season on anything in their way. Southern Californian race rules provide a very clear outline of these circumstances and are as follows: 13.2 Passing: In races that do not require the canoes to maintain their respective lanes, a canoe that is attempting to pass another shall keep clear at all times, and in no way interfere with the canoe it is attempting to pass, nor shall the canoe in the lead attempt to prevent another from passing. The inside canoe is closest and an overlapping position exists, the outer canoe must give way. The canoe jamming it's ama against the inside canoe is breaching rule 13.2 assuming it has positioned itself to impede the inside canoe. Steerers must anticipate before the marker how to best position themselves.
13.3 Rounding Marks: In races that do not require canoes to maintain their respective lanes, and a double marker flag and float are to be rounded, the following rule applies: If an overlap occurs when two canoes are approaching a marker to be rounded, the outer canoe shall give way to allow the canoes closest to the mark to round the mark. The lead canoe is under no obligation to give way before an overlap is established. In case of doubt, it will be presumed that the overlap was not established in the proper time.
13.4 Overlap: An overlap is defined as a condition existing when no open water can be seen between the stern of one canoe and the bow of another, when the canoes are viewed at right angles to their course.
‘Interaction’ - What is it? Interaction is that spooky thing that happens when the canoe travels over shallow water of less than around 3’ (1m) or so and the canoe feels as if it’s moving through mud. The shallower it is, the slower you seem to go. This is one level at which interaction can occur, it's also what happens when two canoes are close at speed, so that they often collide - they are attracted to one another due to pressure waves. As the canoe travels over shallow water, the hull and the sea bed act to squeeze the water between, creating pressure which pulls them together. The canoe is actually being pulled downwards and the faster you are travelling the greater the effect. Cutting corners and travelling over shallows and experiencing interaction is often a poor trade off as paddlers suffer in having to work so hard to deal with this. 110 | Interaction
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12. Wake Riding
By Jude Turczynski - www.huki.com
Photo Steve West Travis Grant Australia
Climbing the Wake Field | Crossing the Wake BowRiding Wave | 111
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Drafting Terminologies In this series of diagrams, it's my intention to provide information on wake riding and drafting that you can easily understand and put to immediate use in almost any craft, especially OC-1 and OC-6s. I believe using this knowledge can result in boat lengths of advantage. Every crew and solo paddler finds themselves inescapably close to another canoe on occasion during a race, usually at the start and finish, near the turning points, rounding coastal outcroppings/ obstacles. While learning to wake ride, it's important to remember not to plan your entire race around the use of these tactics. These tactics should be used only when you must stay close to another canoe due to conditions and situations in the race course. It can be more productive to depend on yourself or your crew's ability to pull your way past another canoe without entering their wake field. Some paddlers may lose concentration when trailing behind another canoe and the speed may drop. Some paddlers get discouraged and some just won't like what you're doing and won't contribute when you take them really close to another canoe. Another important factor is the relative abilities of you and your opponent. You have to be able to manoeuvre your canoe without over-steering or missing too many strokes. The steers person in the other canoe should be able to keep the canoe from zigzagging so much that you won't be able to control your position in his wake field. And if you get in really close, you don't want to be playing bumper boats or getting caught up in each other’s rigging. Remember that these waves, drafts and backwash exist even in rough water, though their effect may diminish when the surrounding swell and wind waves are much larger. In order to better communicate positioning and location, I've developed terminology for certain waves and currents found around a moving canoe.
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Climbing the Wake Field The race coarse may be narrowing ahead and you may have found yourself trailing an opponent by just a few boat lengths. At some point, a decision is made to try to take advantage of your opponents wake since you cannot escape it. You should have been sizing up that steersperson’s ability to keep his/her boat on course, their tactical savvy as well as their desire to recognise your efforts and put a stop to what you're doing. Then, it's time to move inside the wake field. First, climb onto the pressure waves that run ahead of the bow wave. These are quite small and have little value, but they definitely don't slow you down. They're largest near the bow wave and they're travelling in almost the same direction that you want to go. If you're going to hang out here, try not to let any part of the canoe touch the bow wave.
Crossing the Bow Wave Having the bow wave pass under your canoe is disrupting to the glide and trim of your waterline. It can cause the canoe to porpoise and roll, as well as turn from side to side. When the bow wave is under the forward half of your canoe, it has the effect of making you climb up a wave (up hill). When the bow Climbing the Wake Field | Crossing the Bow Wave | 113
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wave is under the aft half of your canoe, it can make control so difficult that anything gained from riding the wave is lost in excessive draw strokes and ruddering. It’s best to just get off of it as quickly as possible. It’s not going in your direction anyway. Remember, the bow wave is travelling to the side and not directly forward down course, so a good ride can be had but you won’t be going in the right direction. Whichever part of the canoe touches the bow wave will be drawn up onto it, especially when you’re in front of the bow wave (the closer you are, the worse it is).
Riding the Inside Wake The inside wake waves are between the two bow waves behind the canoe. These wake waves are travelling in the same direction as the canoe making them. The biggest and easiest wake waves to ride are within two boat lengths of the leading canoe. As you get closer to the lead canoe, your room between the backwash and bow wave narrows. When this happens, you can place your ama in his draft with your main hull between the backwash and bow wave (straddle the backwash). If you're on the left side of the backwash, trailing the tail end of the ama draft, it won't hurt much to let your ama climb up the left bow wave. Remember not to get the bow of your canoe too close to the bow wave which will draw your bow towards the wave, causing loss of control. You’ll be pulled to one
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side, you’ll over correct to the other... the next thing you know...Zig Zag. If you can't take the heat...Get Out! Look for undisturbed water somewhere else, nurse your wounds and get on with winning. If your race course offers nowhere to hide, make the best of your bad situation by using these tactics to the best of your ability.
Crossing the Backwash The paddle backwash current is travelling opposite to the direction you want. This is obviously not the place to be. It will wear you down quickly and discourage your crew. If the steersman in the leading canoe keeps turning his head to look at you, he may be trying to position himself so that you stay in that backwash. Don't let them `give you the backwash.’ The draft behind his main hull will draw you in and could cause you to zig to one side (overshooting your goal), and overcorrect to the other side, zag!
In the Draft You hear a lot about drafting. You may seldom experience it for long in a race, especially in an OC-6. Weather and water conditions should be right as well as the crew’s ability to pull under stress. When in the draft, practice and talent will pay off. Drafting is most effective when racing into a head wind. It's then that you can take full advantage of your trailing position in the race. For instance, if the wind is passing over their starboard fore quarter (right front), you’ll want to draft in the lee of their canoe (the side that’s protected from the wind), at their aft port quarter (left rear). Crossing the Backwash | In the Draft | 115
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The main hull draft exists for about one boat length behind the leading canoe, just enough room for you to slip in and catch the ride. Here, it’s important to have a telepathic connection to your stroker. Hopefully, you both think alike and communicate with few words. They can make steering in this tiny space a lot easier by slightly drawing the bow into the desired position. To avoid collisions, you can ask if the bow of your canoe will clear the stern of the leading canoe by yelling a single word request, like, Clear? When the steersman keeps asking, Clear? the stroker can assume that his steerer wants the canoe to back off enough to clear the leading canoe and so the stroker can ease back on the power, just a little, to back off enough to be clear (only the stroker should back off). Itʼs okay to overlap with the leading canoe for just a foot or two.
There is an advantage to doing this in that when his stern swings into your bow, your canoe will be in the right place. When his stern swings away from your bow, you can't overcorrect when you try to match his movement because his canoe will stop you. This is generally regarded as extremely uncool and if you should accidentally spin them, you'll be disqualified. The draft does actually exist as far forward as the rear i`ako. Drafting like this can lead to collisions and tangles that aren't worth it. They could decide that theyʼve had enough of this dangerous interference and push you away. If they do, you deserved it. Donʼt put people in danger! Though you canʼt see the main hull of the leading canoe very well from your position, you can see their ama just fine.
By looking at the ama, you can tell which way your opponent is turning and how far ahead they are. If the conditions are right and the crew is experienced, you can let the draft pull you along over great distances allowing your people to catch their breath in preparation for the power-up to pass. I've seen canoes draft for miles and then, pass in the last mile to win. No doubt, it can work!
In the Draft Trailing the Ama This is a really great drafting position to be in, even in head winds. Watch the main hull to tell where your opponent is going. The ama draft extends some 30 feet behind the rear i`ako and very close behind that draft are the wake waves. Be careful not to catch your bow under their rear i`ako. You can easily 116 | In the Draft Trailing the Ama
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get tangled with the other canoe here. The draft is best within a foot of the ama and is worth trying to ride if the conditions are right. This is an especially good place to be if there's a head wind coming from the right fore quarter. All other techniques here are the same as when drafting the main hull of your opponent.
Riding the Outer Wake These waves are travelling with your direction and can help you if they don't cause you to spend too much time drawing and ruddering. The closer your stern is to the bow wave, the more difficult it is to control the canoe. If you're in shallow water, say, less than 20” (6-7m) deep, you might be better off moving far enough away from your opponent so you’re not in his outer wake waves. I believe there are pressure waves that can bounce off the bottom and slow down your canoe if the distances and positions are right.
Dropping a Bow Wave When you’re in the lead canoe, you can still use the knowledge of wake riding and drafting to your advantage! It's important to remember not to let this strategy carry you off course. If you can limit your side to side movement to 50” (17m) over a half mile of race course, that’s fine. Dropping a bow wave across seats one and two of your opponent’s canoe will cause his boat to porpoise and climb the wave. Don’t spend too much time and attention looking behind you. If you dropped it on him for a moment, that’s plenty. If they’re unaware enough to wallow in it, give ‘em all they’ll take. But let me remind you, stay focused on your progress, not theirs. Riding the Outer Wake | Dropping a Bow Wave | 117
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If you're in a head wind from over your right bow, you might drop your right bow wave on them. Keep them from finding your lee and make sure they stay exposed to that wind during their attempts find a good position. This tactic is probably the most effective method of impeding the progress of an opponent. Intentionally performing this tactic may be against the rules of some racing associations! If so, let me know which association you're with.
Giving them Backwash When leading as much as we try to anchor our paddles in the water and not let them push water behind us, we do. This water is moving at such a significant speed and volume that it can be used to slow your opponent. Here again, don't get off course. Your race course is always in front of you.
This strategy works best when your opponent is within a couple of boat lengths of you. When you keep turning around to see if you have a direct hit, your opponent will know what you're trying to do and they will compensate. He may decide not to draft you or wake ride you at all, which may also be to your advantage. Remember not to make sudden corrections, rudders or draw strokes that may slow your progress, and allow your opponent to find your draft. In a head wind coming off your right bow, you may want to position yourself to his left, feeding him your right side backwash thus also keeping him in the wind and out of your lee. If they're close enough for you to use this strategy, they're near enough to find your draft with this effect.
118 | Giving them Backwash
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13. Maritime Risks and Rules "Like it or not, the buck has to stop with someone so far as ensuring the safety of the canoe and the crew. As a steerer, you have to assume you are captain of the vessel and as far as the law is concerned, you are."’
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Responsibility The person at the helm can be considered to be the captain and as far as maritime law is concerned, if youʼre steering youʼre in charge.
You may not consider yourself to be the most experienced or knowledgeable paddler within the canoe, but as steerer, you’re at the helm and therefore the buck is generally going to stop with you. How's this for a near miss! This is Mooloolaba Australia. A trawler has just come out of the river mouth and nearly plows right over the top of a canoe. Being so low, a canoe is hard to see. Luckily, the trawler-man veers away just in time.
Your defence, ‘Because I was told to go do it’, sounds a bit weak on the face of it. It is therefore important to exercise caution in listening to back seat paddlers giving you directions. You should have some understanding of maritime seaway code and exercise safe practices at all times. Assume responsibility and stick within your known limitations, if in doubt always take the safest option.
International Maritime Rules International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea are published by the International Maritime Organisation as well as relative regional and country maritime authorities. The regulations are designed to cover every contingency for all vessels and are by nature, complex. This highway code is also known as Navigation Rules. The international rules relate to waters outside of established navigation lines of demarcation, known as COLREGS Demarkation Rules, which delineate waters and rulings with which mariners must comply. You must understand basic rights of way and navigational markers. 120 | Responsibility | International Maritime Rules
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Wherever you live, you will be bound by your country’s maritime rules as they relate to its immediate coastal waters. In the United States, the United Kingdom and other regions Inland Rules also apply, which relate to rivers and lakes.
Collision Avoidance All vessels must use every available means to determine if a risk of collision exists, which in the case of steering an outrigger canoe, your eyes and ears are the best you have available to you - and those of your crew members. One of the key factors in avoiding collision is to ensure you take early and significant course deviations in order to make it clear that you have identified a risk of collision to any vessel within sight. In this way, the other vessel will be able to determine that you have seen them and responded accordingly.
A steerer must rely constantly upon their ability to make judgements via observation as they have little in the way of technology at their disposal. An outrigger canoe is slow to respond and despite its length, is low to the water and easily obscured by sea and swell.
Right of Way Knowing your Right of Way rulings are vital to your safety, especially in busy waters. The best advice is to assume that by being a paddle powered canoe with limited manoeuvrability and speed, you are vulnerable to say the least. Therefore, avoid confusion and issues of rights of way as much as possible, never get into a battle of wills and always exercise the highest level of risk management.
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The rules for rights of way are as follows, not withstanding any local peculiarities. Within Channels
Keep to starboard - right - side of the channel whether entering or leaving. Narrow Channels
Craft under 60’ (20m) must keep clear of larger vessels. Overtaking Vessels
Must keep clear of vessel being overtaken. Power Driven Vessels
Must keep clear of sail and paddle powered craft, with the exception of extremely large vessels which cannot stop or alter course quickly. Power Driven Vessels
Give way to power driven vessels when approaching their starboard side.
In the Dark Paddling late in the evening or early morning is a highly risky business. Submerged rocks, flotsam and jetsam, unmarked posts and any number of hazards can present themselves and a steerer must be extra vigilant and employ the eyes of their forward paddlers. As there is an internationally agreed upon system of lights and shapes covering all vessels, it’s a good idea to familiarise yourself with at least some of the vessels and buoyage lighting systems which you regularly encounter in your waters.
Lighting Under maritime law, row boats, be they paddled or propelled by oar, require that a minimum of a single beam of white light be exhibited when required; i.e. a hand held torch switched on and displayed at an appropriate time, which seems a little vague and possibly inappropriate considering that a 45’ plus outrigger canoe is a significant obstacle. However in some instances, mention is made of the use of white light with a 360º arc, to be visible from any angle. In addition, more than one may be necessary according to discretion. This would seem most appropriate for an outrigger canoe, mounted at the rear behind the steerer, approximately 1m above the level of the canoe gunnel. Contact your local harbour master for confirmation.
'Vessel Under Oars' - If your vessel is under oars, then it should display lights for a sailboat if practical. As an option, your vessel may carry a flashlight or lighted lantern that can show a white light in sufficient time to prevent collision. US Coast Guard Navigational Rules relating to recreational Vessels
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Know Your Limitations Be realistic in determining what you feel you can safely handle as a steerer and in terms of being ʻin chargeʼ of the canoe. Donʼt be forced into situations you would rather not handle, if you arenʼt prepared and ready.
Paddling at night in open water, paddling in rough and big seas, paddling in busy and congested areas, whatever the situation, safety first, and exercise risk management at all times. Know your limitations.
Club Policies Ultimately, clubs need to implement their own risk management policies regarding what is expected of their steerers; where canoes can travel, issues of after dark paddling, big seas, etc. To some extent, club steerers should be listed and permitted to steer once they have been approved by the ʻclubʼs risk management policyʼ as being fit to do so.
This may sound a little over the top, but in order to protect paddlers, canoes and other water users, the concept has merit, especially in the event of a serious accident. This will help you the steerer, see the importance of your role.
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Checking Equipment Having established the steerer is in charge of the vessel, you must ensure that the equipment is checked prior to going on the water. Check bungs, seats, rigging, canoe, ama, ensure bailers are in place, and if required, light/s attached and pfd’s under seats. Include any additional safety equipment deemed necessary. Don’t rely on someone else to do this. Do it yourself.
Ensure Proficiency of Paddlers Be sure that the paddlers who are in your canoe are suitably proficient given the prevailing conditions. You need to know their abilities. You may have new paddlers who arrive at a training session. Can they swim? Have they filled out a medical form? Are they insured to paddle with the club? Are they members?
These issues need to be considered as ultimately this is not a fair ground or carnival ride, but a serious situation, which could land you in a good deal of trouble. Take control of the situation, establish your limitations and boundaries and stick to them to ensure you implement your own risk management strategy and duty of care to others.
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14. In the Surf Zone
By Chris Maynard / Steve West
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Preparation There’s no escaping the fact that canoe surfing or paddling within a surf zone is not without its risks. However, preparation can go a long way towards minimising those risks. Canoe surfing, once beyond the break and preparing for the drop-in, is essentially in the hands of the steerer, in every sense of the word. Wave selection, the take off, the drop-in, surfing, the pull out rests entirely with the steerer. As the steerer, you are going to have to make many decisions when out amongst it. Make sure that your paddlers are aware of some of the safety issues, the commands you will be giving, what you want to see happen and when. Be sure your paddlers are proficient swimmers. You will need to check rigging, bungs, check that the bailers are attached to the canoe, take a spare steering paddle, spare rubber for rigging and duct tape, run through any drills you may like to cover before you set out. Rubber rigging is often preferable over cord (definitely not snaplashes) to allow some give and movement under critical situations. Of course the bigger the surf, the more crucial your preparation. (Remember to tell others what you are up to.) Your choice of steering paddle is critical and must be sized relative to the size of the waves. Many of these procedures relate also to OC6 steering in shore breaks.
The Paddle Out Access the surf from the shoreline if possible before you paddle out. Depending where you are, you may need to consider the tides, sand movement if it’s a beach break, rocks and coral heads if on a point or reef break. Taking on solid pitching beach breaks is serious business. Here the steerer has angled the canoe over the wave so as to reduce the impact. Select channels and exit points. Good timing is essential. You may need to time your launch to coincide with some backwash or a lull in order to gather some momentum to leave the beach cleanly. Push the canoe out to get it moving, make sure everyone jumps in and is accounted for; steerer last Photo Harvie Allison / Byron Bay Australia in. You may need to rush your paddle out, you may need to take your time. Either way, think your way out to the line-up rather than trying to smash your way out!
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it’s best to go hard, paddle slow or wind off to avoid being directly in the impact zone. Don’t hesitate once committed. Keep in mind when paddling a 4 man surfing canoe it's not designed to be efficient in flat water, so paddling hard and fast in flat sections is hard, on the other hand you will be able to turn quickly. You may need to call paddlers up to ‘wind off’ or ‘hold up’ in order to let a breaking wave go by, before setting off again. If you find yourself paddling up a wave that threatens, you can call that you want the stroker or even all the paddlers to jump out. This lightens the canoe in the front (better for landing) and allows the canoe to ride up and over the oncoming set a little easier. However, timing is essential as the paddlers only exit just before impact.
Hold off or paddle hard into it? In this instance the crew is way too far committed and the best option is to maintain some speed paddling into the oncoming wave. The brunt of the impact is felt by the front seat paddlers. You need to protect them.
Otherwise, paddlers can lean back a little to get their weight off the nose. The paddler or paddlers need to jump out to the right and dive deep, then swim back to the canoe, which will have moved backwards, and get back in to paddle as soon as possible. Remember to bail, but only in the flat when it’s safe to do so.
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Canoe Surfing Hawai`i. A small 3 or 4 person surf canoe should be very manoeuvrable if designed well. Here in both cases, note how the blade is entered near the body line hard up against the hull, both hands on the shaft and then swung forward so as the body can be behind the blade, arms locked in towards the body. The blade angled forward is easier to control and will have greater turning affect. Photos Steve West Steerer Todd Bradley
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The Line-Up Don’t sit too far out or you end up paddling too hard to drop-in. Too close and the take off can be too extreme so you lose control at the drop-in. Clearly a background in surfing is a huge advantage, because this is exactly what you are doing. Finding a transit point back on land is a good tip, so you can paddle back out and get back into the same position. If you sit at a 45º angle to the waves, with the nose of the canoe pointing away from the wave break, it allows you and the crew to see the oncoming waves so you can prepare in advance. In addition, you have time to paddle away from any dangerous sets if you need to.
The Drop-In The take off is a critical time as it requires total commitment and it often determines the quality of the ride. Where you have lined up will often determine the quality of your drop-in. You want to be in control of your canoe as you drop-in, if you are at too steep an angle that could be difficult. The steerer has to be very precise about their steering at this point. Drop-in at 90º relative to the wave to get up and going, which means you’re going to have to pull the canoe around in preparation for that chosen take off. The smaller the wave, the easier it is to control and in this case you can take off at a shallower angle if you wish. Inform your paddlers ‘OK, here we go’ or some cue to let them know you're going. You will want to get the canoe up and running in preparation for the take off. Ensure paddlers are not leaning back or leaning heavily onto the ama as this will create more drag, increasing the canoeʼs tendency to pull to that side, back towards the oncoming peak. On occasion, the drag prevents you dropping in and the canoe rounds up and falls off the back of the wave.
Be aware that the canoe will want to pull towards the ama side, back in towards the breaking wave, so you must make that initial correction a positive and strong one to ensure that you pull the canoe straight, then away from and across the face of the wave. JOSSPhoto. Hawaiian Style.
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The Surf Zone | Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering' JOSSPhoto. Afternoon tricks.
Left Hand Break / Right Hand Break Taking off on a left hand break, you will be poking on the right with as much weight on the paddle as possible. You will drop-in straight down, then cut across the wave as you build up speed. The ama will be rigged on the left as per normal. The canoe will try hard to pull you left, back into the oncoming breaking wave, therefore it is critical that after the drop, you nudge the canoe right with your steering. Once the canoe pulls left and gathers speed, it is very difficult to pull it back around. (Transpose for right hand break).
Basic Manoeuvres 4 man surfing canoes are actually very manoeuvrable (unlike an OC6) but most of your canoe surfing will be limited to the drop-in and the turn across the face of the wave. The bigger the wave face, the more adventurous you can be. With plenty of speed, you can learn to manoeuvre the canoe on the wave, being cautious not to turn back into the wave as once the ama digs in, it can be very hard to correct. Advanced manoeuvres involve tricks - hand stands, walking out on the i`ako, flying the ama and so on.
The Wipe Out For the most part, stay with the canoe. Grab on to the seat or gunnel and hang on. Once you are separated from the canoe, you run the risk of being hit by it. In addition, if possible, hang on to your paddle. Keep your head low. 130 | Left & Right Hand Break | Basic Manoeuvres
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Recovery You will need to check that all your paddlers are accounted for. Check for oncoming waves. You will then need to flip the canoe back over - a drill which you will have practised and be aware of prior to leaving shore, and you will then need to empty the canoe. It’s possible with a 4 man canoe to have a paddler stand on each end of the ama and pull on the i`ako to lean the canoe over to spill water out. Get paddlers in as quickly as possible to begin bailing and paddle out of any danger. With the canoe in all sorts of trouble, having dropped in to the left, this canoe is in high risk of capsize and one of the paddlers has decided to body surf away from an accident waiting to happen! A straighter approach would have been the preferred angle of attack. Photo Harvie Allison, Byron Bay Australia.
Returning to Shore through Surf Select where it is you will come to shore. Study the beach break and select an area where the break appears cleanest and smallest. Ensure canoe is nose towards the beach and that the crew have your full attention. They go when you say so and not before. Be patient. You’re certainly not looking for the biggest or smallest wave necessarily, but one which you judge to be fast moving, clean and capable of taking you all the way to the beach. Once committed and the canoe is fast underway, it will be near impossible to pull out. Keep going and ensure you set the canoe up straight. The stroker and seat# 5 will need to steer if required.
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15. Canoe Sailing by Nick Beck Holopuni Canoes
Steve and Mandy West Canoe Sailing from Leleuvia Island Fiji
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The Art of Steering a Sailing Canoe In spite of the fact that I have been doing this for 50 years, crossed every channel in the State of Hawai`i and won a few races here and there, I have to honestly say that I am definitely still learning. Each time I go out in a sailing canoe I learn something new, try something and hopefully get a little better at what is a true art form. In a way, developing your steering skills in a sailing canoe is sort of like a good wine. The older you get the better you get.
Unlike paddling and other endurance sports, steering a sailing canoe defies the limits of ageing. I would liken steering a sailing outrigger to surfing a paddling canoe on an endless wave. There is a sensation of acceleration and sustained speed that you may feel only briefly when paddling. This is that 'whoopee' moment when you and the canoe are in that sweet spot just going as fast as the hull can go. The difference is that in a sailing canoe, this can last for hours. Learning to steer with a paddle is a real challenge, but in doing so you become much more aware of the wind, water and wave conditions than in any other sailing craft where steering is controlled by a fixed rudder. Steering an outrigger sailing canoe is an art. Sometimes you connect all the dots and create, for that moment in time, a masterpiece that can never be duplicated. It is complex, yet it is so basic, that it is simple.
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No matter what kind of sail you put on your outrigger canoe, you will soon find that sailing an outrigger is a combination of anticipation, coordination, concentration, understanding the dynamics of wind and water pressure against sail and paddle, teamwork, coordination, strength and tuning your rig, balancing mast and sail placement.
Where to Begin Where do you begin. Only one way. By just getting back there and doing it...and doing it. I have seen totally novice steersmen get to a point where they can steer an outrigger sailing canoe in light winds in just a few weeks. Of course, there are some helpful things that you will either learn by hard experience, as I did, or you can learn from others as I still try to.
Paddles The obvious and primary difference with a sailing canoe is the addition of a sail to harness the power in the wind to propel the boat. This energy is captured in the sail and transferred to the canoe via the sheet. The load on the sheet tries to continually turn the back of the canoe towards the sail. This sail power requires a stronger and larger steering paddle, to direct and sometimes offset the pull of the wind. When steering a sailing canoe, remember that at all times you and your paddle are the rudder. The paddle you use will be different than a paddling steering paddle. There is so much more pressure created that an ordinary paddling steering blade will not be sufficient to control the canoe. They usually break very fast in a sailing situation. Depending on the wind and conditions, your paddles will need to be quite a bit larger and stronger. I have about four Where to Begin | Paddles | 135
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different size steering blades.
Poking The first thing you need to do is forget about trying to make the canoe move by paddling, this will come later. When you start learning to steer a sailing canoe, you need to learn to steer it with your paddle blade against the hull. If there is a consistent wind you will not be paddling. You will nearly always be ‘poking’, steering with the blade pressed against the side of the hull, held by the pressure of the flow of water passing over the blade’s surface. The more pressure there is on the blade, the more you will be driving the canoe in the direction that your blade is on. Poke on the right and you steer the canoe to the right. Poke on the left and you steer the canoe to the left. As you put in more time you, will learn tricks that you can do with your paddle to make this job easier and more efficient. Adjusting the depth of the paddle in the water while it is against the hull, and even adjusting the angle of the blade against the hull, can increase or decrease steering pressure in a positive way.
Over Correcting As a new steersman you will find that you are always over correcting and the canoe will zig zag down the line. This isn’t such a problem when just paddling, but now with a sail overhead, not being able to hold a true line can be very frustrating and dangerous. If you steer too far down wind, the wind will eventually drive your sail back across your hull in a hurry. You have just done your first jibe. This particular manoeuvre can be a very efficient and fast way to change your direction. But when you have unintentionally let the canoe run off course and you unintentionally jibe, the results can be either hilarious or just down right disastrous. Unfortunately it is more often the latter. In an outrigger sailing canoe there is no letting up.
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Steering Via the Sheet You will also learn that how the sheet person controls the sail can radically assist you in steering the canoe. Sailing with a person who understands how and when to properly sheet in or out, can make your life and job so much more fun. When you get this combination of sail shape and sail pressure together, it is like doing a dance where you are always in step and each person totally anticipates what the canoe will do pending the moves they make.
This is especially significant when you are sailing downwind with fairly high surfable swells. Alan Faye, a former blue water, ocean monohull sailor, is now addicted to sailing outrigger canoes. He emphasises;
" The steering challenge is often complicated by the wave action pushing the stern (o`kole) around on occasion. This adds to the effect of the wind pressure on the sail and it is in this situation that steering can actually be largely controlled by the person handling the sheet who really understands how to adjust the sail. This combination of steering with the paddle as well as the sail is what sets up conditions where often we go so fast that we jump a series of waves. That is most exciting."
Downwind Sailing Downwind sailing is definitely the most challenging, especially in surfing swells or waves. Anticipation of the canoe’s next direction is paramount here, and you will have to shift the steering paddle from one side of the hull to the other very quickly to control the canoe’s best course.
Over Sheeting Over Powered One of the biggest problems that sailors new to outrigger canoe sailing make is over sheeting. They want to pull in on the sail too much, thinking that they will just drive the canoe faster. When this is the case, they tend to drive the ama under the water. This just slows the canoe down and makes it much harder to steer, as the canoe wants to pull towards the submerged ama. Back off on the sheet and learn to sail by watching the water line of the ama, as well as watching the luff and shape of the sail. Steering Via the Sheet | Downwind Sailing | Over Sheeting | 137
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In an outrigger sailing canoe you must always sail by the ama, ie do not sheet in so much that you start to drive the ama under. Keep it from being forced under. Light is Right. Don't over power on the sheet. Try to sail this way and you will find that you will actually generate more speed. As the old sailor’s adage goes 'When in doubt, let it out.' One of the big problems with the OC6 crab claw sailing canoe is that we get over powered and can not reef or reduce sail area. If we could, I think that in heavy winds we would go even faster, with a lot less stress on the canoe and steersman. One of the big advantages of the new Holopuni OC3 sail is that you can furl it when the wind kicks up. This moves the centre of effort of the sail forward and reduces weather helm, which is when the canoe is constantly being pulled up into the wind.
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16. Safety Items
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GPS While it may sound a little incongruous with our sport, the use of a hand-held Global Positioning System can definitely have its uses, not only for safety but as a valuable training device. More affordable than ever, hand-held, wrist-worn systems are readily available and within the budget of most clubs and paddlers. In areas of the world where heavy sea mists are common - Hong Kong, British Columbia, California, etc, a GPS system can provide a safe course home if you become lost. Systems today can calculate some great information via built in trip metres which calculate current and average speeds, sunrise and sunset, trip times and distance travelled. A steerer would do well to invest in such a system as an added navigational tool. Use of a GPS by support boats for events such as the Moloka`i Hoe, Hawaiki Nui Va`a, Catalina are all permissible. From this standpoint, GPS systems already play a significant role in these big events in determining course and distance.
Mobile Phone / VHF Radio One of the easiest and cheapest safety devices you can take along with you is a mobile phone enclosed in a water proof bag. With a variety of emergency numbers pre-set on speed-dial, you can raise the alarm if required. While the use of the phone may not always be practical, on many occasions it can be and as such should be considered a vital safety device. VHF radio remains the best form of nautical communication, widely used by boat clubs, rescue organisations, fisherman and for ship to ship communication. Set on a particular channel and frequency, you can maintain contact with a support vessel or land based site and directly make contact with the coastguard.
Spare Inner Tube and Duct Tape For emergency lashing or repairs.
Marine First Aid Kit Including a Marine First Aid Kit is a basic and simple way of looking after yourself and your crew.
Lighting A 360ยบ white light, mounted on a rod 1m above the level of the gunnel of the canoe is required in many places when travelling in the dark. A hand held waterproof torch can also come in very handy.
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Pyrotechnic Distress and Warning Signals Though it may not always be necessary, consider carrying distress flares under certain circumstances, in the event that you find yourself in serious trouble; i.e. the canoe, rigging or a paddler is in distress. These include; Hand Held Red Flare
As a distress signal and position indicator, used when rescuers are presumed to be in sight. Visible in the day and night, and usually burns for up to 60 seconds. Hand Held Orange Smoke Signal
A daytime distress and positioning signal. Visible up to 3 miles at sea in good conditions. Burns for up to 60 seconds. Hand Held Parachute Flare
To signal distress and position. A high altitude flare which once reaching around 300m, deploys a parachute and drifts. Burns for up to 40 seconds.
Hydration Systems The most commonly used hydration systems for steerers, tend to be ‘back worn’ systems holding between 1-3 litres of fluid. While these commercially available systems are very good, whether they are ‘ideal’ for canoe paddling is questionable. They add weight directly to the paddler, can chafe, be distracting and raises the paddler’s centre of gravity. Waist worn systems are also used, which are generally more comfortable, though can be a hindrance when the canoe has covers on - they can also become stuck in a capsize which is a serious concern.
Ideally, a system should be attached to the canoe, either to the gunnel or under the seat and a tube simply clipped to your shirt for ease of access. Never wrap items such as a coat hanger around your neck as a means to support the tube and valve near your mouth, especially if you then attach the bladder to the canoe.
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and a swimmer can pass up a drink, consider preparing your drinks prior in 750ml or 1ltr bottles, labelled with your name and perhaps numbered sequentially so they are delivered in order - your first few may be water only, followed by electrolyte drinks. Ensure a system of letting the support crew coach know when you need replenishing. When done with the bottle, throw it over the side for collection.
Food Longer races may require you to take some form of food or energy replacement supplement in the form of a gel or biscuit. If you carry these with you, it's often a good idea to pre-open and reseal using a simple tag of tape, so you can open without having to do battle with it! Have it handy and easy to reach. Some steerers set up a ‘cup’ which is attached to the gunnel of the canoe, and place these items inside. Some covers have velcro compartments where the steerer can place course maps, supplements and drinks which can be handy, but make sure they can be opened easily. Velcro can be a two handed task, not easy in rough water.
Sunglasses and Peaked Cap Eye strain is not uncommon for a steerer, as part of your role is to focus on the water and on points of reference, the ama and so on. Specialised sunglasses can be of help, but some are annoying as they tend to ‘salt up’. A peaked cap is a simple and cheap accessory that will help in keeping overhead sunlight and spray to a minimum.
Bailers Don’t forget bailers under any circumstance! If you need to make your own and bring them with you to each paddling session. Ensure there are hooks for them and that they are attached with a length of cord or rubber - long enough so bailing can be carried out under normal conditions, so they don’t float away in event of capsize Ensure you attach a spare steering blade and paddle to each i`ako using rubber inner tube. In calmer waters you can often place Attach spare steering paddle to rear i`ako, a spare paddle immediately behind regular paddle to the front. In calm waters, with your seat. no covers, you can perhaps carry one behind your seat. Attach using rubber with 'quick release' slip knot. 142 | Food | Sunglasses | Caps | Bailers
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17. Stretching
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Stretching and Steering Related Injuries Stretching in its many forms offers great benefits to all paddlers. However, it has to be said that of all positions in the canoe, the steerer is the one who takes the most punishment. The steerer’s body is constantly being pulled out of alignment, simply because most of the work is done on one side of the body - usually the left. While the importance of stretching has been known for years, centuries if you include the practice of yoga, it has recently become a more valued practice. The biproduct of stretching is flexibility, and a steerer needs this if they are to perform at their best and reduce the chance of injury. There are numerous benefits to be had by incorporating a stretching program into your exercise routine and this becomes more relevant as we age. Athletes worldwide have improved their performances, by simply adding stretching to their routine without making any other changes. Steerers in particular are prone to lower back and hip injury. Know this now and you are forewarned to consider some preventative measures. Other areas of the body that can suffer are hamstring muscles and your knees from working one side of the body and being under tension for long periods of time. Injuries are nearly always muscle related and often due to a pre-existing lack of flexibility.
Warm Up Before Stretching! Follow a sequence. Some things in life are obvious, yet for years we were told to stretch first, before we did anything else. Finally, common sense has prevailed and now its OK to warm up, then stretch. It makes perfect sense doesn’t it? Our muscles are like rubber bands. With movement they warm up and as a result, they are better able to stretch over a greater distance. The accepted format for a stretching program is as follows; Warm up - quick jog, hop on the rowing machine for 5 mins, etc. Stretch all major muscle groups and their opposites Stretch gently and slowly Stretch only to your personal point of tension Breath easy Stretch after you finish your activity as a cool-down
The Four Forms of Stretching Static or Passive Stretching
This form of stretching involves moving a joint to the end of its range and holding it for between 15-20 seconds. The muscle is usually stretched to nearly the length you would expect it to extend to during paddling. This form of stretching is safe, entry level, low injury risk and leads to improved flexibility. Yoga is based upon similar 144 | Stretching | Warm Ups | Stretching Forms
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concepts, however the stretch is held for a greater period of time, with the result being a more permanent and greater increase in flexibility.
Object or Partner Stretching As it implies, this form of stretching requires an object or partner. Very similar to static or passive stretching, however greater force and tension can be generated which requires greater caution as the risk of injury is higher. Very useful as a cool down process. PNF - Proprioceptive Neuromuscular Facilitation
A stretching technique used to develop a more permanent increase in flexibility, best practised during specific stretching and flexibility sessions. PNF requires a partner to assist. Essentially the muscle is taken to the end of its range, while a partner holds the limb as you push back against them; relaxing and repeating. It is more advanced form of stretching and highly effective. It has the benefit of isolating muscle groups and promotes flexibility and strength. However, you must be reasonably flexible before embarking on this program. Dynamic or Ballistic
This form of stretching involves moving a joint under muscle contraction, similar to the actions you will be performing during the session. A controlled bounce for example or swinging motion. However this is an advanced form of stretching, highly sports specific and in real terms, more for conditioning than flexibility.
Stretch Bands A great way to stretch is to use a stretch band, a fantastic giant sized rubber band which allows you to very safely and gently, stretch under tension. It is a brilliant, cheap and effective device which can be used for isometric type exercises and various forms of stretching - hamstrings, quads, lats etc.
Stability and Balance Due to the wide range of movement the steerer uses, it’s important that you develop good core (trunk) stability, improved by specific exercises known as, closed chain exercises, which encourage your ‘stabilising muscles’ to switch on. Swiss Ball exercises are an excellent means of activating these muscles as is stand up paddle-boarding, which switch on as a consequence of their reaction to provide balance. In addition, free weights do this very effectively, particularly the more compound exercises such as squats, cleans, dead lifts, lunges and upper body free weights, used in a standing position.
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Hip problems seem to be common amongst steerers, because of the contortions. Other problem areas include the shoulders, neck and lower back. An over developed left side of the body can occur, therefore OC1 paddling and gym workouts can help to balance this, along with plenty of massages.
In the Canoe - Dealing with Discomfort On long training sessions or races, when you are working one side of your body hard, it’s common to experience a good deal of discomfort ranging from lower back cramps, pins and needles in the hands or neck, sciatic nerve problems, numbing of your butt cheeks, leg cramps, knee soreness, hip pain and so on. Learning to relax is important. Try to stretch out your legs from time to time and if you need a real break, do some mini-squats, lifting your butt up off the seat and getting some pressure down to your feet or kneel down briefly on the canoe floor. Whatever you can do to help relieve some of the pressure points where you are experiencing pain is a good thing! Don’t just sit there and take it. If you need to, have your seat #5 take over for a little while, while you stretch and get comfortable. Some of the problems you have may be due to a pre-existing injury, brought to the surface by the demands made on your body when steering. You may need to seek medical advice.
Invest in Regular Massages A steerer’s best friend is their masseuse. If you don’t have one, get one! If you are experiencing a good deal of muscular pain, a good masseuse will be able to help. A massage before a big race is always of benefit and afterwards it will help you in the recovery phase.
Invest in a Good Stretching Book. Join a Yoga Class Gone are the days when yoga was the domain of hippies and new age groupies. If stretching is something you know you should be doing but just can’t find the time or the discipline, then joining a regular yoga class may be a very good thing. Alternatively, purchase an easy to understand book on stretching and find the time to work it into your routine. 146 | Dealing With Discomfort | Massages | Yoga
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18. Moloka`i to O`ahu Race Preparation and other long races By Terry Wallace
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Without exception, every major distance race involving an escort boat, with or without change overs, requires a great deal of preparation and planning. Fail to do this and you plan to fail, by your failure to plan. The top five crews can all have equal ability, but at the end of the day, if there's one thing that will separate them, it's the extent to which they have planned every stage of their race, from the moment the journey begins, to the time the gun goes and eventualities during the race itself. Most of what is said here can apply to many of worlds big races and of course to every crew no matter what your level of experience or competitiveness.
Big Race Preparation So, your team made it. You’re in top shape and raring to go. You've done the rest, now you want to do the best. Do you have everything you'll need to make a good go of it. As an individual. As a team. Have you covered all the possibilities, made all the arrangements and have the money? Here's a check list, based on experience. Not only mine, but others, paddlers who have done it, time and again and have said, 'I should have. . .', 'next time I'll. . .' and so on. This check list should work for any Ka`iwi Channel race - and many other races. You won't need some of the stuff for OC1 / OC2 or surf ski races.
Delegation Some things you’ll need to do months in advance, include electing a Team Captain / Coach / Manager. This person should then delegate all the little jobs that need to be done to each member of the team. They should then report back what they have accomplished. This makes things much more manageable and more like teamwork.
Travel Arrangements Book early, especially from O`ahu to Moloka`i. Flights to Moloka`i the Friday before the race are always booked up. There are only so many flights. Your team will want to be on one of these. Your options are; pay more for First Class, go on Thursday, or go on Saturday. Remember, you’ll want to rig your canoe on Saturday. While you’re at it, book your taxi (a van) from the Moloka`i Airport to where you’re staying.
Accommodations Another booking to make well in advance. Remember, the airport is in the middle of Moloka`i Island. The race briefing and the race are on the West-side. No point in booking a condo on the East-side. We did that one year and it took us over an hour to drive the rental car to the West-side. Plus, we had to check-in the rental car prior to the race! Waking up at three in the morning was no fun. 148 | Big Race Prep | Delegation | Travel | Accom
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Basic Stuff Don’t bring anything you can’t afford to lose. Escort boats have been known to sink. Prominently mark all your stuff. There will be more than a thousand people there and everyone’s stuff looks alike. Maybe someone won’t steal it, but you’ll need to identify your things when they’re found.
Bags Medium Sized Mesh Bag for Footwear.
Paddlers can put their slippers /zoris / flip-flops in one collective bag. The captain will appreciate not having these all over the boat. One person, not paddling at the race-start, should be designated to get the footwear from the paddling crew, put them in the bag and take this bag to the escort boat. Dry Bag, Small Extra Bag and Paddle Bag.
For your stuff. They have them now with back-pack shoulder straps. Bring along a small extra one for the ‘whatevers’. Your paddle should be in a paddle bag. Steerer should have two paddles. The favourite and an extra. Some steerers recommend a rough-water paddle and a smooth-water steering paddle. The rough-water paddle is usually bigger all around; wider blade, longer shaft and larger grip. Rigging Bag
Many people have found that a 5 gallon bucket, with a top, works well or a heavy canvas bag with pockets.
Rigging Tools A sailorʼs or Bosunʼs knife. A multi-tool like a Leatherman. Two-way cordless screwdriver - straight blade and Phillips head. Small hand drill with a few nuts and bolts in case some are missing from the rails. Tape measure and spirit level. Tensioning toggles - 2 x 6" (15cm) dowel to help pull the rigging tight. Roll of new duct tape. Rigging cordage. 2 sets, pre-cut, new and stretched ends duct-taped. Line for a tipping string if needed between i`ako. Rigging rubbers, 8 x 2" (5cm) x 3ʼ (1m) or snaplashes or similar. Wood i`ako shims, flat and wedged, several different sizes. Rigging Gloves to protect hands when rigging. Lead weights to fasten to rear outer i`ako if necessary, tie-ons attached. 6 x closed-cell foam seat pads in case the canoe you draw doesn't have them. Surfboard wax for canoe floor if slippery.
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Capsize and Safety Gear Bailers
Two or three bailers in the canoe and several more on the escort boat. Towing Yoke.
If your canoe has to be towed back to O`ahu, this is mandatory. The ‘Y’ of the yoke should just fit under the bow when the two ends are tied through the rigging holes of the front i`ako. The long end of the ‘Y’ goes to the escort boat and should be long enough so the canoe is at least two canoe-lengths behind the towing boat. A steerer will have to sit in seat #5 to keep the canoe on course. SCUBA Tanks.
Ask your escort boat captain if he'll bring along a couple of tanks. These are great if you capsize and are unable to right your canoe- recommended by the Race Committee. Swim Fins and a Face Mask.
Clothing and Other Small Essentials On the Support Boat
Dry clothes - in your dry bag, for before and after the race. Take a minimum of gear; shorts / T-shirt / sweat shirt / flip flops. Keep it simple. Don't take lots of junk you're not going on holiday! Include a small towel or chammy. On hot days, the towel kept in the ice chest / chilly bin / esky feels great on your neck and shoulders. Long sleeved wind shirt or wind proof jacket to wear on the escort boat between changes. Sometimes it gets cold and windy, or it rains. Sun glasses with a ‘floater’ head band. Visored hat with neck drape or light weight broad rim hat. String tied in back of your shirt and attached to the back of your hat. Vaseline for your butt to prevent rash. Chapstick sun-block for your lips. Waterproof sun-block 30 SPF (or better) uva / uvb recommended - non greasy. Team manager needs race watch / timer, change chart and a copy in case lost / water damaged, megaphone, change number cards (if used), pen / paper, digital recorder for note taking, binoculars, GPS for monitoring positioning / progress, crew combination performances. In the Canoe
Comfortable clothing which does not absorb and bring in lots of water into the canoe when entering and skin tight enough so as not to snag when exiting. Though you have your race shirt, take extra layers in case you get cold. Paddling gloves if you like. Steerers need to be very comfortable in the clothes they choose; clothes which don't chaff, allow freedom of movement, don't ride-up and cut off circulation are critical - practice in what you paddle in - don't experiment with new gear on race day if possible. 150 | Capsize & Safety Gear | Clothing & Essentials
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Food on Moloka`i Most of the condo’s have a blender. Take breakfast. You might eat one meal at the hotel and make your own meal on another night. Most take spaghetti and a salad. It's cheap and filling.
Money Matters Dollars, credit card and photo I.D. How much cash is up to you. Put it all in a ziploc bag. Photo ID may be essential to prove that you really are who you say you are.
Water The water in the State of Hawai`i is safe and drinkable. But you may favour bottled water, as straight tap water usually has a chlorine taste and may have other chemicals. You probably won't be able to buy enough water on Moloka`i, especially if you're staying at the hotel. Besides, it’s heavy. Ask your escort boat captain, very nicely, to stock sufficient water (your call) and other favourite race beverages on the boat. The escort boat will probably come from O`ahu. If you're staying on O`ahu, offer to buy the water and beverages and deliver it prior to his departure. If you’re lucky, the captain might offer to do that for you. While you’re at it, ask the captain to loosen caps of carbonated drinks the day before, if you like it flat. The captain will no doubt get ice, but ask so you’re sure.
Seasickness, Mal de Mer, Poluea Some get it, some don’t. Most who do, get it on the escort boat not in the canoe. My remedy, even though I don’t get seasick, is ginger. Fresh, candied or pickled, it doesn't seem to make any difference. If you require a prescription and you’re coming from afar, don't expect to get it filled at your local drugstore / chemist / apothecary. Either bring your medication with you, or forget it.
Food on the Escort Boat Ask the captain if there is any objection to bananas. Some captains think they’re bad luck. Stock high-energy food like fruit, oranges (pre-cut into wedges), energy bars, sandwiches, poi, etc. I recommend carrying a couple of small mesh bags with water and a few squeezees tied to the w`ae in the canoe, strictly for emergency as occasionally, an escort boat may have a problem and the team has to 'Ironman' to O`ahu. It might be you!
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At the end of the race, the leftover paddlers need to unload the personal things from the escort boat and deliver them to the rest of the crew. Ask the captain and crew if they want the leftover food, water or drinks.
For the Steerer Specifically If you go ‘iron’ you should carry some things in the canoe. A small mesh laundry bag works well for food supplements and water. Tie the bag to the seat. If you don’t fasten it and capsize, you’ll lose your stuff. This way, people on the escort boat won’t be obligated to feed you. Duct tape a few squeezees (carbo-shots or supplements) to the inside of the canoe, in front of your knees, within easy reach. Pre-open with a small tear. Remember one hand will always be on the paddle, leaving only one hand free. Don't attach a water bag to your body, secure to the canoe and run a tube back to you. Some covers include pockets for supplements / extras. Make sure you can gain entry using only one hand! Tape a foam pad to the left side of the canoe at your hip before putting on the covers. It'll save you from many bruises. If you have a swimmer hand you a bottle of water or energy drink, ensure the lid is loosened or off and that energy bar wrappers are partially opened. You need two hands to open bottles and tear into packets and you will only have one free! End note: Overseas paddlers are particularly at risk of failing to be prepared for these types of races and even experienced crews get caught out from time to time. Every eventuality should be covered. Spare bungs, cooking spray to ease covers along the rails, a needle and thread to stitch torn covers, quick fix gel coat and fibreglass repair kit, spare screws, contact glue to attach foam covering for seats, spare paddles, first aid kit, the list is a long one and with each event you will become more skilled at being prepared. Dress for conditions - on rigging day at Halo O Lono (or any other venue) - do not dehydrate, drink lots of fluid and minimise your sun-time. Wear brimmed hat, drink lots of fluids as part of your pre-race preparation. You need to be in top shape as well as your canoe.
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Steve steering a Holupuni Sailing Canoe, Leleuvia Island Fiji
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Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Photo Steve West Huahine
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Photo Steve West Bora Bora
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Outrigger Canoeing 'The Art and Skill of Steering'
Photo by JOSS
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Photo Mandy West Leleuvia Island Fiji Lesser Frigate bird (Fregata airel) are built for flying, they rarely swim and cannot walk, although they do manage to clamber around in the trees and bushes where they nest.
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