Paddlers Guide to V1 - Outrigger Canoeing - Va'a

V1 - A Paddler's Guide

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BATINI BOOKS Est 1994

V1 - A Paddler's Guide A Kanu Culture publication, published by Batini Books, written and researched by Steve West.

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The management of Batini Books, Kanu Culture, along with the authors and editors of this book, shall not accept responsibility for any injury, loss or damage caused to any person acting or failing to act upon information arising from material in this book, whether or not such injury, loss or damage is caused by any negligent act, or omission, default or breach of duty by Batini Books, Kanu Culture or the authors and or editors, except as provided by law.

Publishing Information Š Steve West, Batini Books 2014 Photography Steve and Mandy West unless otherwise indicated. www.kanuculture.com ISBN 978-0-9574664-3-2

Contents 1. Va'a Evolution and Origins / 8-21 2. Fuelling the Fire / 22-41 3. Para-Va'a / 42-51 4. V1 Design Considerations / 52-85 5. Ta'amura' a te Va'a (Rigging) / 86-127 6. Paddles / 128-165 7. V1 Forward Stroke / 166-187 8. V1 Paddle Steering / 188-219 9. Downwind Paddling / 220-243 10. Racing Strategies / 244-255 11. Lifting, Carrying, Capsize and Recovery / 256-275 12. Sciatic Nerve Compression and other Discomforts / 276-287

STEVE WEST 2014 Winner World Paddle Award for Media 2015 Admitted into the World Paddle Academy British Windsurfing Display Team UK Board Sailing Open Sea Examiner Royal Yachting Association Senior Instructor International Windsurfing Schools Instructor First windsurfer to sail on the River Nile.

Co-Founder of the UKs Around Hayling Island Race Level 1 Coaching Principles (Aust) Level 2 Coaching Principles (Aust) Level 1 Outrigger Canoeing Coach (Aust) Elements of Shipboard Safety (Coxswains) Co National Coaching Director (Aust) with C. Maynard (5yrs) Co National Coaching Director (Fiji) with C. Philp (5yrs) Founder of AOCRA Coaching / Author of Manuals Founded Kanu Culture 1994 Author of 12 Books on the subject of Outrigger Canoeing Founding member and Vice President Mooloolaba OCC 1990 Former Vice President Australian Outrigger Canoe Racing Association Former Secretary Australian Outrigger Canoe Racing Association.

Team New Zealand Crew 1998 New Caledonia Former International Polynesian Canoe Federation Delegate.

2009 AALS (UK) Authored the Good Practice Guide for SUP 2009/10 UK SUP Coaching Development 2010 Team Starboard Racing Team UK (SUP) 2011 Appointed ASI CEO Europe SUP Division 2012 Authored Stand up Paddle - A Paddlers Guide 2014 Authored V1 - A Paddlers Guide 2014 Authored OC1 - A Paddlers Guide 2014 Mistral International VP Mistral Red Dot MD 2015 Authored SUP - Water Safety and Rescue 2015 Winner of World Paddle Awards for Media Lifetime Achievement 2015 Admitted into World Paddle Academy

My Thanks To

Tahiti Tourism, Air Pacific Air Tahiti Nui, Fiji Tourism Palau Tourism Marianas Tourism Hamilton Island Resort Infront Communications Susan Boyd, Harvie Allison Sue Sheard, Chris Maynard Jim Foti, Todd Bradley Colin Philp, Jackie Taylor Kialoa Paddles and to my beautiful wife Mandy.

Most of my paddling years have been spent either in seat 1, 2, 5 or 6. My favourite if I had to be honest, is seat 5 in big water with a top crew. In 2007 our Mooloolaba Masters crew consisting of Chris Maynard, Danny Sheard, Grant Kenny, 'Lemmo', Darren Mercer and myself won the around Hamilton Race. Sitting in seat 5 behind these guys in the hands of Danny Sheard was an epic experience I will never forget. We were fast, but did not beat the record we set in 1998, with Danny Sheard and Grant Kenny also in that crew.

Have raced in these events either once, twice or Of over 15 years of competing in the Hamilton Cup Australia, I finished on multiple occasions. The Hawaiki Nui Va`a I have raced twice, followed it five times and the out of the top 5 crews on but a few occasions, testimony to the men with toughest by far, especially the 2nd day, 60km whom I was fortunate to paddle with. iron. Catalina, Moloka`i Hoe, Hawaiki Nui Winner Masters Division of Moloka`i Hoe 1998/99 Winner Masters Division of Hamilton Cup 1998/99/07 Winner Masters Division 16km Round Hamilton Island 1998/99/07 Winner Cairns To Port Douglas (OC1) 2008 with C. Maynard Runner up Hauraki Hoe New Zealand 1998/2003 Runner up Catalina Classic 1998 (Mixed Division)

Va`a, Hamilton Cup, Micronesian Cup, Gold Coast Cup, Bay of Islands NZ, Hauraki Hoe NZ, Ouvea to Poindimie New Caledonia, Fiji International and no doubt, some I've forgotten.

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Acknowledgements Mandy West makes so much of what I set out to achieve possible, as writing and putting together a publication, especially one of a technical nature, is arduous and demanding even if we sometimes work in some of the world's most beautiful environments in order to nurture the outcome.

Whether it's taking photos, handling our day to day inquiries and orders, reading over material or simply taking care of my needs in order to keep me functioning, she makes what seems impossible, achievable. She is a women of many talents, whose radiance touches many.

Colin Philp who unwittingly made this publication possible to produce in isolation on a tropical island paradise, with the raw materials I required and more besides. Over some 20 years, we've forged a friendship through our mutual passion for the ocean, for outrigger canoeing, in all its forms and the deeper meaning behind participation. I am indebted to him and his partner Lee-Anne Lee. My thanks also to all of the Leleuvia Island Resort Staff. www.leleuvia.com

V1 - A Paddler' s Guide

Preface The complexities which V1 paddling can present on account of being rudderless and its asymmetrical geometry, may well combine to make it one of the most challenging paddle craft to master.

With Tahitian mastery of the craft, an accepted cultural reality, the isolation of these beautiful and mysterious islands is a summation of the sport itself, a beautiful graceful art when perfected, but for the most part, something of a mystery as to how to make it so.

Like many of my peers, I have over many years worked hard to learn how to steer team canoes, how to rig, how to catch 'runners' and surf downwind, spent endless hours paddling OC1 craft, but because of my geographical proximity in living in Australia, the V1 craft was not omnipresent, not a part of my paddling culture as it were.

But I have been fortunate, as regular trips to Fiji over a 20 year period, permitted me time in V1 craft, but never with such regularity I felt I was really achieving any real level of mastery, especially if when wind and wave action was thrown in for good measure. I did however learn bits here and there, but when I finally managed a 6 month stay on Leleuvia Island Fiji, I was able to immerse myself in a process of discovery learning and I have documented not just what I have learnt, but what I have been taught over many years.

I've attended at least 3 International Va'a Federation World Sprints (Australia, Hawai'i and Bora Bora), witnessed the Super Aito from Moorea to Tahiti and the Around Bora Bora race and it has never failed to impress, the level of athleticism and work rate of the top V1 paddlers. When you move between an OC1 and a V1 you quickly realise how you need to be OC1 fit and V1 fit as they make very different demands of the paddler.

OC1 paddling is more about keeping your head down and grinding away almost relentlessly. It's about muscling your way through many differing water and wind conditions but best of all the rudder 1 | Preface

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makes you look good so far as your general control of the craft and in over-coming the elements. In contrast the V1 is rather like walking a tight-rope, a fine balance between being the master of your own domain, to suddenly being humbled even humiliated by being taken off line by any number of external factors or by your own doing. Mastery of course, helps you limit those moments.

As with previous books I have written regarding outrigger canoeing and stand up paddle boarding, I feel it important, if not vital to bring greater understanding to what I am about to set out before you, by going back in history and peeling back some of the layers vital to your better understanding.

That being said, the purpose of this is to heighten your experience, deepen your connection to the sport and the craft, whether new to it or perhaps a veteran.

This may result in a path of learning which helps assume an upward spiral of interest if you have found yourself on a plateau from where you are finding it hard to move to another level.

V1 paddling is currently experiencing unprecedented growth and while some of the reasons are easy to explain, some are not quite so straight forward. The not so straight forward answer to some of the growth has I think to do with long term OC1 paddlers, finally wanting a new challenge in having an epiphany that having 'been there and done that' in most other areas of the sport, V1 is the final frontier, the last great hurdle to be mastered. It is this mindset which I think is the most revealing. A change of heart which has taken a considerable amount of time to manifest within the hardcore OC1 communities of Hawai'i, California and Australia.

From this and other factors, rudderless V1 have been jettisoned from being rejected as something of an anachronism and impractical on account of a lack of a rudder system, to that of the ultimate test of the paddler, which if you want to truly earn the respect of the solo outrigger canoeing community, championing and mastery of this craft over a variety of conditions, will bring you kudos within the sport unlike any other facet of participation.

In some perverse way, given the choice of paddling an OC1 or V1, choosing the OC1 seems almost to admit defeat, to take the easy way out, the path of least resistance on any given day. At this juncture, I would have to say they are different sports, each the antithesis of the other to the extent of finding appeal between different peoples for differing reasons.

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V1 - A Paddler' s Guide

Ownership of either an OC1 or V1 permits many benefits for the paddler, not least of which the option to train when you want without the need for others in the case of also being part of an OC6 or V6 crew. The benefits are far reaching and both craft have had a significant cross-flow affect into that of team-canoes, both in raising skill levels, fitness and ultimately for the purposes of crew selection, to which coaches will often resort as one of a series of mechanisms.

When we consider the kayak and how Europeans in particular have taken this craft and modified it beyond any recognition of its original purpose to that zenith called 'Olympic Class' in that of the K1, it is now but a mere residue of what it once was, a 'hunter's boat' if we translate from the Inuit meaning.

Designed for speed alone, the trade off is a craft incapable of being used to hunt anything; useless in rough water, unstable when stationary, incapable of carrying tools or weapons, the list goes on. It is in short no longer a hunter's boat by any measure. It could be argued its nomenclature has been severely compromised, being as it can no longer be used for its original purpose.

The V1 is in some sense the 'hunters boat' of the Pacific, accepting narwhal and seal were certainly not on the menu. However it differed in being an open-decked craft, paddled with a single blade, suited primarily for flat lagoon-waters and with the obvious inclusion of the outrigger assembly. It was and remains the warmwater equivalent.

But even the V1 underwent significant changes in design and even in very recent times as paddlers ventured beyond the shelter of the reef. In all of the this, both the V1 and OC1 racing craft remain paradoxically utilitarian.

This marks my 20th year of writing about this all encompassing sport and I have to say I never grow tired of it. With so much culture and depth associated with it and around it, it's easy to see why the sport in its varied forms is way beyond a mere physical act, but very much more. I hope you'll appreciate and enjoy this latest offering.

Steve West AOCRA National Coaching Director [Australia] 2002-2006 FOCRA Coaching Consultant [Fiji National Squad] 2000 - 2006 ASI CEO Europe Master SUP Coach and Instructor Trainer 2010 - 2013

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V1 - A Paddler' s Guide The V1 book was born in Fiji 2013 on a tiny Island called Leleuvia. The graphic on the cover is a soil painting on Tapa cloth, by the Artist Jaabi Faarai. I saw this painting some 15 years ago in Fiji and by some divine intervention or otherwise, while writing this book, Jaabi came to Leleuvia Island and gave his blessing for his work to appear on the front cover for which we are very grateful for sharing his energy. Here's a little peek into his life.

'Painting with earth is like telling a story from the beginning'.

Jaabi Faari was born in Europe. Raised in the Caribbean, Africa and France.

His origins are from Africa, America, India, Europe and Asia. One of nine brothers and sisters, Jaabi showed interest for the Arts through music at a young age. His mother gave him his first guitar, he taught himself and found inspiration through Jimi Hendrix, Bob Marley and Miles Davis among many others.

Despite his interest for civilisations and philosophies, the modern lifestyle in urban surroundings was not for him. At age 33 he set off for the South Pacific, having already travelled through Africa, Europe, India, Asia, the Amazon and Caribbean. 'I was a musician until I came to the Pacific, then I turned into a painter by the will of nature, the islands, the light and above all the feeling of nature. Something real'.

Jaabi uses a tapa cloth which can be made from the inner bark of paper, mulberry or breadfruit trees. Using the tapa is a dedication to authenticity and nature.

He spent a few years on a tiny sandy islet, alone in a hut made from coconut leaves, in the middle of the magnificent scenery of the two islands of Huahine and discovering the amazing art of Huahine painter Bobby Holcomb. He spent his time improving on his skill of painting with oils on canvas.

In 1996 Jaabi was asked to decorate their 'UO' a giant custom kite that was showcased at the 1996 Samoa Arts Festival. 'I did not have enough paint to cover that surface so I thought of using soil‌ and it just worked out!'

To view more of Jaabi's work visit www.paintmyearth.com 5 | Preface

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V1 - A Paddler' s Guide

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1 Va'a Evolutions and Origins

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Of humankind's inventiveness in the challenge to travel near or far, the va'a was to the ancient cultures of Oceania, what the wheel was to Western culture. As a method of transportation, its impact and significance was on the grandest of scales.

Canoes of all manner of shape, size, construction and material, designed to function in a variety of aquatic environments, are present in most parts of the world. Va'a, which include an outrigger framework, are uniquely different from other types of ‘canoe’. Whether possessing a single or double-outrigger, doublehulled, paddled or sailed, they were at their most prolific and developed to their highest form throughout the islands and cultures of Oceania (Melanesia, Micronesia, Polynesia) – though also present in Madagascar, the Comoro Islands, East Africa, Southern India, Sri Lanka, the Maldives and Indonesia.

Pin canoe - Papua New Guinea

Much speculation exists about the origin of the outrigger concept. Being made of organic material, archaeological finds of any accurate age are few and far between and do not provide any definitive chronological evolutionary evidence nor resolution of cultural ownership.

Given Africa qualifies as the oldest place of human habitation and on the basis that the outrigger form existed in parts of Eastern Africa, it could be argued that this could very probably be where the outrigger maritime architectural design originated. But this is clouded by the possibility of trading between regions as far away as India where the outrigger also existed. In any event, the fact remains Oceania is not the birthplace of the outrigger concept, but no doubt it seems the cauldron from where the greatest variance of the craft existed.

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The outrigger canoe ' The single-outrigger canoe, is native to the islands of Indonesia, the Andamans, Nicobar, Nias and the Mentawei Islands. In the Indian Ocean African regions of Madagascar and the Comoro Islands. Papua New Guinea regions of Nissan, the Louisiades, the estuary of the Fly River and Southward to the Torres Straits Islands and North Queensland. The single-outrigger assembly has proven superior over the double in a variety of conditions, Madagascar being a good example.' (Hornell, 1920-c).

In the 16th and 17th centuries double-canoes were also present in these areas as well and by the 19th century both canoe forms existed. As time progressed, the double-outrigger seems to have diminished and the single-outrigger has survived with the exception in East Africa where the double-outrigger seems to be the only form in use.

The point to be made here, is that while outrigger canoe racing in solo craft doubtless has its origins in the Pacific Island groups, it must be stressed the origins and use of the craft are spread far and wide away from this region. In addition, the evolution of the origins of the outrigger canoe assembly will never be resolved, though some evidence and logic suggests that the double-outrigger canoe pre-dates the single-outrigger, the double being more conducive to calmer waters, the single better suited to rougher, choppier waters.

Aitutaki Canoe - Rarotonga

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V1 - A Paddler's Guide

Origins It is assumed that tree logs were used to create the first floating platforms, propelled over the water by use of a long pole, pushed into the riverbed for leverage - what we know as ‘punting’.

Considerable time passed before the creation of suitable tools, which when combined with fire in some instances, enabled the logs to be hollowed-out, creating the dug-out canoe and therefore the basis of the va'a.

It has been suggested that a rafting community has existed in Indonesia for 60,000 years, during which time, sailing rigs and hollowed timber va'a hulls were developed.

Around 20,000 years ago, raft rigs were progressively attached to these hulls with the use of lashings, internal lugs and fittings.

Outrigger canoes include an 'outrigger' assembly on one or both sides - on one side only this is a single-outrigger, on both sides a doubleoutrigger. A double-hulled canoe, as associated with many voyaging canoes, includes two primary hulls joined together through the use of cross beams and polls and may include some form of living quarters.

One of the most complex of skills, was the way in which these canoes were constructed and ultimately lashed together using a intricate variety of styles and materials.

The manner of attachment and the engineering thought used behind the variance of outer floats (ama) and the number and form of differing booms (i'ako - kiato) are quite staggering.

Expert opinions differ regarding the exact sequence of modifications which led to the development of the outrigger framework. But it is assumed that since a hollowed-log was inherently unstable, the natural ingenuity of these maritime cultures would have led them to experiment with the three basic options; the single and doubleoutrigger concept and the double-hulled va'a.

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During the populating of the Pacific Rim, cultures adapted the va'a to suit a range of environments, predominantly rivers and coastlines, while a northwards migration into the frigid and inhospitable waters of the Arctic Circle led to the advent of the closed deck kayak.

Venturing out into the vastness of the Pacific Ocean was left until last. The open ocean provided the greatest challenge of all and required the va'a to be more robust and stable to cope with the forces it would face.

Substantial modifications were required in order to develop a more stable craft and it was at this point that maritime technology entered a new cycle, one which was developed over thousands of years, culminating in the last and greatest migratory exploration and settlement of the planet; the islands of Polynesia.

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Outrigger assembly experimentations and limitations Though it was assumed that the double-outrigger sailing va'a would be the most stable and seaworthy craft, there were problems associated with handling the mountainous deep-water seas. With increased swell and wave size as well as the space between deep-water swells, the hull was often left suspended, airborne between two swells, with two flimsy outriggers supporting the hull's weight.

The va'a with double-outrigger was therefore not considered adequate for deep-water sailing where it would encounter large ocean swells. The solution was to remove one of the outriggers and to increase its size and weight, thus increasing its counterbalance affect. How this solution was reached is unclear, but it resolved a major design problem and allowed seafarers of this region to venture into deeper waters.

The conclusion has been made that the va'a with single-outrigger is considered a more recent design, because it is a more advanced concept and not the most obvious or logical solution in stabilising the primary hollowed timber hull.

This seemingly simple, yet significant leap in technology meant that va'a could now withstand reasonably rough and hazardous open ocean conditions. The addition of a sail meant that sea travel between islands was now possible. The pace of life quickened and the opportunity for new oceanic migrations on a grand scale was created.

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The advancement of the dug-out canoe The development of the va'a hull ensured that they were no longer make-shift and their construction now required specialised tools, the careful selection of a suitable tree, hours of hard, precise tooling and refinements in the art and skill of wood carving. The adze became the standard tool of the trade, designed to hollow out tree logs, a short-handled tool with a wooden shaft and axe-like head that was normally made of stone or more commonly in Melanesia of giant clam shell and later in New Zealand of Green Stone (Jade).

With the advancement of the va'a and outrigger framework, many of the limitations associated with the hull were overcome, notably that va'a could now be made extremely rigid and strong enough to cope with rough sea conditions.

The size of the va'a then became limited only by the size and availability of suitable trees.

This increase in outrigger weight meant that the load-bearing properties of the va'a and the points of attachment needed to be strengthened. In doing so, they raised the sides of the va'a by attaching planks. They were now able to build larger, deeper, stronger and more seaworthy sailing and paddling va'a than the size of the tree dictated with planking added to the bow, stern and sides.

Dug out canoe Suva Museum Fiji

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A migration outwards into the Pacific ‘ The ancient Polynesian played a major role in a drama that tops any wonder of the classical ancient world: the settlement of Polynesia, humankind’s final push Eastward into the most remote reaches of the Pacific Island world.

This drama was played across thousands of miles of sea and lasted for thousands of years'.

V12 racing Tahiti as part of the Heiva I Tahiti Festival

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www.kanuculture.com 'It began in Indonesia and Melanesia around 2000BC, when a group of highly skilled mariners and traders, known to archaeologists as the Lapita People began to explore islands West of the Admiralty archipelago, moving quickly through Fiji and New Caledonia to Samoa and Tonga by about 1200BC and then deeper into Polynesia. Around 500BC, the ancestors of the “The Men” (as today’s Marquesans refer to themselves) sailed Eastward from Tonga or Fiji, to discover a remote string of jagged volcanic islands poking into the Pacific sky 780 miles Northeast of Tahiti: the islands which we know as the Marquesas.

By about 100AD or so, Marquesan mariners had pushed on to Hawai'i and by 500AD had established settlements on Easter Island (Rapa Nui), Mangareva, and possibly some of the Tuamotu atolls.’

Rose Corser, Director Museum of Polynesian Seafarers, Taiohae, Nuku Hiva, Isles Marquesas.

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V1 - A Paddler's Guide

All of this was only possible when va'a technology and navigation had advanced far enough to enable these Eastern-Austronesians to venture further eastward into the Pacific. It must also be noted there was a move northwards, resulting in the settlement of Micronesia and ultimately the development of the Chamorro culture, whose origins are Indonesian.

Raiatea Society Islands

Nuku Hiva Marquesas

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These early mariners and settlers took with them the skills to manufacture a variety of va'a types, which they went on to do using the available raw materials. A variety of va'a types were ultimately required for a range of purposes, i.e. fishing, trading, venturing, as well as warfare and as a basic form of transportation.

The African dugout canoe No historical account of the dug-out canoe's origin would be complete without the inclusion of its wide distribution throughout Africa. As there was an original transmigration of peoples across from Africa into India then Southeast Asia, the dug-out canoe, though not developed to the same degree as the Oceanic va'a, could have originated in Africa. Indeed many scholarly writings make mention of East Africa and Madagascar in particular.

The dug-out canoe formed an intrinsic part of many African cultures in tropical regions where rainfalls were high and river and coastal based cultures thrived, especially on the West Coast of Africa. In May 1987, a Fulani Herdsman discovered a Dufuna canoe near the River Yobe in Nigeria. It was carbon-dated as being over 8000 years old and made from African Mahogany, a black wood.

It is the third oldest dug-out canoe ever discovered, the other two originating in the Netherlands and France. ‘It is highly probable that the Dufuna boat does not represent the beginning of a tradition, but had already undergone a long development, and that the origins of water transport in Africa lie even further back in time’.

Peter Breunig of the University of Frankfurt, Germany.

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Sacredness, significance and ceremony Throughout the Pacific, the adze became a sacred and valued tool amongst va'a carvers, known in Hawai'i as kalai wa'a. Blessed, kept in a sacred place and used with reverence by those who shaped the va'a from logs, the adze is recognised as one of the most significant tools created and remains in widespread use around the world. The cultures of Oceania acknowledged the significance and sacredness of trees within the context of their maritime culture.

Trees were selected by priests kahuna (and often continue to be today) on the basis of their individual mana or spirit. They were blessed before being felled and carved, with the first cut being made by a sacred ceremonial adze.

A study of the va'a of Oceania, is as much a study of ethnology and the migration of a seafaring people, as it is of the development of an amazingly advanced maritime culture.

The story culminates with the development of the voyaging va'a, a craft more advanced in all respects than the galleons of 19 | Va'a Evolutions and Origins

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Europe that did not appear in the Pacific for another 1500 years, after most of Polynesia had already been colonised by Polynesian va'a of a double-hulled configuration.

Note: The double-hulled voyaging va'a of Samoa, considered the departing point for the Polynesians epic journeys into the Pacific, were known as va'a tele.

All Polynesian people are descendants of at least one great va'a journey and it is this fact that makes their commitment to the sport of va'a racing of great significance, as can also be said for the peoples of Melanesia and Micronesia, where highly advanced sailing va'a and navigational skills existed.

Colonialism The va'a has been the focal point and essence of most ancient Oceanic cultures. Without its creation, the survival and transmigration of people across the Pacific would not have occurred in the manner in which it did.

With the arrival of the Europeans, came the subsequent introduction of western values, religions, diseases and the overwhelming material attractions of a Western lifestyle, each contributing to the degradation and loss of many of the formidable skills associated with va'a construction and seamanship.

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of cultural identity, for it was these very skills which provided the people with pride, strength, belief and purpose.

It was inevitable, as the need for va'a construction ceased and values changed, many traditional wood carving skills died. The adze was laid aside and with it a skill that had been handed down through generations.

With a lack of demand for the creation of va'a, craftsman felt no need to teach their children a useless craft.

Today, the cultures of Oceania are continuing to rediscover their ancestor’s ancient skills of va'a building. With this is a revival of the skills of wood carving and of the traditional ceremony involved throughout the process of building; the blessing of the tree selected for felling, the blessing of the va'a before its maiden voyage and the everyday ritual which revolved around the importance of the va'a within the community and culture.

But above all, it is competitive hoe va'a racing which serves to provide continued connection to the craft and the skills associated with its handling and historical lineage between the family of cultures of Oceania.

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2 Fuelling the Fire

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The evolution of the V1 racing craft has been fuelled and therefore nurtured not just out of cultural pride, but largely because of the existence of key festivals, events and the International Va'a Federation, which have kept this graceful and highly skilled sport growing and growing. We have the people of French Polynesia to thank for this, together with those visionaries who have made the sport what it is today.

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V1 - A Paddler's Guide

1881 Heiva I Tahiti Festival While there's evidence to suggest that outrigger canoe racing has existed for centuries throughout Oceania, we can say with certainty, that the Heiva Festival va'a races run annually in Papeete on the island of Tahiti are now over 130 years old. The word Heiva ('hei' meaning to assemble, and 'va' meaning community places) refers to activities, pastimes, physical exercise and festivals.

Music, dancing, singing and sporting events have always held an important place in Polynesian communities. In ancient times, they were essential components of religious and political ceremonies. Dance was one of the most sophisticated and ritualised art forms performed in groups or individually.

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In the 19th Century, Christian missionaries condemned these demonstrations which they described as an erotic form of debauchery. In 1819, King Pomare II legally forbade the practice. At that time, after being banished from public areas, dancing became a clandestine practice for the people.

Though va'a paddling continued.

In 1881, after a long struggle with England and Protestant missionaries, France annexed a large part of what is today French Polynesia. That year, the first festival was staged and was called the Tiurai and was held on Bastille Day, France's national holiday celebrated on July 14th. On this one-day, France allowed sports and dancing in an effort to overcome the Anglo-Saxon influence and to satisfy Polynesian taste for festivities. In 1977, French Polynesia gained greater political autonomy from France. This political and cultural emancipation led authorities to organise and rename the festival the Heiva I Tahiti in June 1985.

More than just a simple festival, Heiva I Tahiti has become the symbol of the Polynesian culture and an iconic event for a people proud of their heritage.

These performances highlight the drama of an opera and the distinct imprints of an ancestral tradition. The dances are unique creations, for which the dancers train for six months or more. Music, choreography and costumes are based on a historical or legendary theme. Live music and singing accompany the dancers. The orchestras are made up of five to fifty musicians using traditional instruments such as the nasal flute or vivo, made from a portion of bamboo, marine shells or pu and more recently, the ukulele.

Since its creation, the Heiva I Tahiti, has also been a showcase for traditional sports and games. The traditional sporting events are based on ancient athletic activities and include; a stone lifting competition, a javelin- throwing event, va'a races, a copra competition and a fruit carrying competition.

Va'a racing has always featured as part of the festival's sporting activities and as a consequence, there's little question that this has ensured a continuance of connection to the va'a and pride associated with taking part.

Certainly the va'a used, have evolved over time, not just for the simple reason that organic constructed va'a simply don't last forever and where new ones have been made over the years, both V6, V8 and the V1 canoes, designs have slowly evolved.

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Although missionary intervention affected the ritual of dance and some other practices, the paddlers of French Polynesia (The Society Islands) have been free to evolve not only the craft they paddle but the techniques employed to move them over water. From this standpoint, they represent the purest form of va'a racing on many levels, aided ultimately by the lack of Anglo-intervention.

1982 International Va'a Federation (IVF) Once called the International Polynesian Canoe Federation (IPCF), the decision to rename it to International Va'a Federation honours and respects the sport's origins and uses the language associated with this - as the kayak is to the inuit, the va'a is to the peoples of Oceania (though waka ama in Aotearoa - New Zealand, vaka in the Marquesas and with the same pronunciation, wa'a in Hawai'i).

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The founding members were the Kalifornia Outrigger Association (KOA), renamed Southern California Outrigger Racing Association (SCORA) in 2004, the Hawaiian Canoe Racing Association (HCRA) and the Federation Française de Pirogue Polynésienne (which became the Fédération Tahitienne de Va'a).

Every 2 years, the IVF organises the World Sprints Championship and at the 13th World Sprints 2008 in Sacramento (USA), adaptive paddling was for the first time included in the official program as a fully recognised medal discipline. The first IVF European Va'a Championship (designated for V1 and V2) took place in May 2009 in Italy on Giglio Island as part of the All Wave Cup. As the governing body of the international va'a sport, the IVF now has more than 25 members and member areas. Since its founding, the IVF have maintained a strict and ruthless adherence to the use of rudderless va'a hoe (V1) for their IVF World Sprint Championships and while this has meant that the island of Tahiti and her paddlers, have been favoured by this ruling on account of their unbroken and continuous use of the V1 in competition, the rest of the world were for a time a long way behind being as the V1 was not present much beyond Tahiti's shorelines.

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Wherever the IVF World Sprint Championships are held, the requirement has been that the host country, construct V1 for the event. This has led to some spread of the craft and the discipline, though sometimes, they have fallen into a state of disrepair and not been used following the event. In Australia, when the IVF World Sprint Championships were held in Townsville, the Seahorse OC1 was used (converted from the rudderless Surfrigger V1) and the rudder system removed. It was not popular as many experienced V1 padders could not paddle the sit-on-top craft with the same control or efficiency.

Australia, USA (including Hawai'i) Canada and other areas of the world who are member countries of the IVF, have struggled to come to grips with the V1 ownership and access to such a craft has been difficult especially in areas where the ruddered OC1 is prevalent.

The net result of the adherence by the IVF to the V1 use, has reinforced the rationale that the upholding of the use of the traditional craft, maintains the skills associated with paddling rudderless and has effectively blocked intervention by Anglocentric wants. The only concession made, has been the manner in which the craft is rigged (direct mechanical connection and no longer using rubber lashing).

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Contemporary V1 racing, spread outward from Tahiti to French speaking areas of New Caledonia, Wallis and Futuna and Southern France to form new strongholds of participation nurtured by Tahitian and by default, French assistance.

The Fiji Islands in 1998 held their first International Va'a Federation World Sprints and the V1 has remained the preferred solo canoe craft in the islands, beginning with the manufacture of the Surfrigger V1 from New Zealand (Aotearoa) where too the preference has been for the V1, though many ruddered V1 variants now exist. In the Easter Islands (Rapa Nui) the V1 remains the preferred choice and now in areas such as parts of South America, the V1 has gained a strong foothold.

Micronesia, remains strongly influenced by the USA and therefore Hawaiian OC1 designs are prevalent, while the Cook Islands, strongly influenced and supported by Tahiti in the formative years of the growth of the sport, seem to have opted towards a mix of both V1 and OC1 designs. In Samoa and Tonga, the V1 is preferred. The Pacific Rim areas of Australia and mainland USA remain largely OC1 dominated, with some growing interest now in V1.

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In very recent times, a powerful shift toward the V1 has manifested as mentioned, on account of inclusion within para-canoeing race circles and hence the Paralympics as of 2016, which in turn has elevated the influence and significance of the International Va'a Federation and its association with the International Canoeing Federation (ICF).

Pacific island spread of V1 manufacturing Availability of canoes, be they V1 or OC1 remain a significant mitigating factor as to where the two variant sports have spread. Originating in Tahiti, this region has been generous in transporting V1 to many parts of French speaking areas of the Pacific; New Caledonia, Wallis Futuna in particular.

New Zealand's close affinity with Tahiti brought about by the late Kris Kjeldsen's development of the Surfrigger V1 which became a standard canoe throughout New Zealand and the canoe used at the 1998 IVF World Sprints in Fiji, set the pathway for V1 craft becoming the preferred choice used at national level.

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The Surfrigger found its way to Fiji, Australia and mainland USA and in many respects was the first Anglo-Polynesian V1 canoe to infiltrate areas of the world where the OC1 was more prevalent.

Fiji has been manufacturing the Surfrigger V1 since before 1998 and in preparation for the IVF World Sprints. Recently a Tahitian company has moved its manufacturing to Fiji to reduce manufacturing costs and be better able to service neighbouring island regions including Tahiti. V1 paddling in Fiji is a rapidly expanding and growing sport which is seen as 'cool' and very much something to be a part of. OC1's were introduced to Fiji, but interest tended to remain with the V1.

Tahitian's under-going military service in areas such as the South of France, ensured they took V1's with them as well as V6's and these initially arrived through transportation on French naval vessels travelling between Tahiti and the South of France. Importation lead to manufacturing in limited quantities, but the net result was that V1's had been introduced to the Mediterranean as a result.

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Two other events continue to nurture V1 usage, the South Pacific Games and the Mini-Games where the V1 is used exclusively and the picture shows that in many respects the V1 is very probably growing in prevalence. Throughout the Pacific as a whole and with the exception of the Pacific Rim countries, there's no question the V1 is more widespread and in general use at racing level.

Cultural lines drawn in the sand Significantly, during the process of the evolution of the rudder steered, sit on top OC1, beginning with Anglo-Hawaiian development in the early 1980s using va'a hoe as a template start point, paddlers of French Polynesia made it clear that they did not recognise this variant of their lagoon va'a hoe, as being part of ‘their’ sport. Indeed they went further than this in their belief that it was something of a cultural insult to be making such gross alterations to what was 34 | Fuelling the Fire

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ultimately an iconic symbol of their forefathers long before it was associated with any form of racing.

Wherever the Tahitians have had an influence, where there were few or no racing va'a hoe in use, the rudderless V1 remains and has been embraced by the locals who see this discipline of paddling as a natural extension of their culture.

Only in very recent years has the interest and challenge of paddling rudderless V1 extended with any true gusto into Europe, Canada, South America, mainland USA and to a lesser degree Australia. The para-va'a inclusion at the Paralympics has certainly assisted in bringing greater kudos and attention.

At times there has been a cultural stand-off between Tahiti and Hawai'i on the issue of legitimacy. In mid 2000 there was a softening of views with Tahitian officials permitting ruddered wa'a to compete in French Polynesia in open ocean events, in a separate division. While the IVF also considered greater inclusion of the craft. This was based on the growing acceptance of the natural evolutionary process of the Tahitian va'a and increasing international competitor numbers in French Polynesia. Despite this nothing much came of it and the split in preference remains.

Tahitians move to design open water V1 The initial designs of the OC1 arose from lagoon styled Tahitian V1 designs and over the past 20 years, Tahitians have developed their own design of ocean going V1 as a result of their lagoon va'a being unsuitable for (rough) open water paddling and the demands required of both paddler and craft.

The result incorporates a singular small cockpit area and closed deck to prevent water filling the internal hull space, an adherence to paddling skills in order to

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maintain directional control, rubber rigging (for the most part) and pure simplicity of design blended with innate maritime architectural know-how, essential to their cultural core and agenda.

1988 Te Aito One of the motivators for this evolution came about in 1988, fuelled by the establishment of the Te Aito Individual Off Shore Canoe Race.

'In the spirit of preserving the proud tradition of our courageous ancestors, two friends with strong feelings for their heritage have dedicated their lives to the search for an original sporting event that would capture the spirit of individual off shore canoe racing.

With much conviction and labour, these men have created Te Aito.

A perfect blend of man, sea and God. The challenge of one's ability to master all elements of nature.’ This single event creation sparked the imagination of the paddlers of French Polynesia in such a way as to nurture a full on assault in taking on open waters and the design of purpose made va'a in advancing the existing lagoon va'a.

Today the Te Aito race format and the prestige with which it is esteemed throughout French Polynesia is testimony not just to its founders and organisers, but of the passion to which paddlers of this part of the world hold for their sport - the National Sport of Tahiti. In French Polynesia, Te Aito can attract over 700 competitors, indeed, the organisers have to limit entries and this becomes a qualifying event for the Super Aito which is held between Moorea and Tahiti.

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Te Aito styled events are now staged in the Cook Islands, New Zealand and France and the interest in rudderless V1 paddling is growing hand in hand with the popularity and prestige of which Te Aito commands.

As a consequence today's modern racing va'a hoe, is a speed machine of grace, form and function. A single outrigger honed from the resourceful imagination of the Polynesian master builders and designers of French Polynesia, where this form of solo outrigger canoe racing has perpetuated for longer than any other region of the Pacific. Va'a racing is deeply and intensely associated with this region of the vast expanse of ocean. Not just a sport, it defines the people and their connectedness to the very origins of their culture and the waters surrounding them.

1963 The South Pacific Games The South Pacific Games are an international sports competition that brings together the 22 States and Territories of the Pacific and they are supervised by the Council of Pacific Games. The first Pacific Games were organised in 1963 in Fiji. Every 4 years, they are organised in a member country or territory of the Council of Pacific Games.

The primary objective of these South Pacific Games is to create links of friendship and brotherhood among the countries of the Pacific, through sports exchanges, without any distinction of race, religion or politics.

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1981 The South Pacific Mini Games The South Pacific Mini Games are the sister competition of the South Pacific Games and were first staged in 1981 with a reduced sports program in order to allow States and Territories, not eligible for the organisation of the bigger games, to host an international sporting event. These games are held every 4 years alternately with the major South Pacific Games.

Va'a events include, Sprints: V1 500m, V6 500m, V6 1500m, and V12 500m.

Marathons: V1 10km and V6 20 km for women, V1 15km and V6 30 km for men. In 2013 (held in Wallis Futuna) va'a paddlers from American Samoa, Fiji, Tokelau, Wallis & Futuna, Northern Mariannas, New Caledonia, Tonga, Niue, Palau, Papua New Guinea, Samoa and Tahiti participated.

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3 Para-Va'a

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Para-va'a inclusion at the Paralympics On the 11th December 2010, in Guangzhou China, para-canoeing was given a positive vote by the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) to become Paralympic. The net result of this recognition, has brought respect, greater world-wide recognition of the sport and increased future investment by companies and paddlers alike.

The International Canoe Federation (ICF) led application for inclusion was made in partnership with the International va'a Federation (IVF). It's President, Mr Charles Villierme stated, 'This is a great day for paddlers throughout the world. The collaboration and strong positive working relationship with the ICF has given va'a paddling a huge boost world-wide'.

Since the 1996 IVF World Sprints in Noumea (New Caledonia), teams from Italy, Hawai'i and California have had adaptive paddlers within their ablebodied crews, although there were no official adaptive paddling classes.

Over the years adaptive paddlers became an integral part of the IVF World Sprints and in 2004 it was included as a demonstration discipline at the 2004 Worlds (V12) and in 2006 as V1 and V6 events and in 2008 became a fully recognised and classified discipline of the IVF World Sprints in Sacramento.

Being a standing committee of the IVF, the Adaptive Paddler Committee continuously develops, evaluates and refines criteria for the promotion of adaptive va'a paddling around the world and its integration in IVF events at world level. It further collects and

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disseminates information on training methods and hazards of the sport and has worked very hard to develop and promote para-va'a which has encountered a considerable success. One of the main goals was to bring para-va'a to the Paralympics.

In 2009, together with the International Canoe Federation (ICF), the IVF started an initiative and formed a para-va'a Working Committee composed of IVF and ICF representatives.

After being an exhibition event in Halifax at the 2009 ICF Canoe Sprint World Championships, para-canoeing made its first full debut a year later at the 2010 World Championships in Poznań, where 63 athletes from 31 nations and 5 continents competed in four 200m events: men's and women's kayak (K) and va'a hoe (V), these were then separated into mixed or independent functional ability categories: Legs, Trunks and Arms (LTA). The 2011 World Championships in Szeged, Hungary saw nearly 70 competitors take to the water. Canada and Brazil proved themselves to be leading nations in the sport.

The IVF have worked with surgeons and physiotherapists to develop the ideal adaptive paddling va'a which is concurrently both narrow and stable. The design permits a paddling action near vertical and close to the body and the support seats and torso belts provide improved spinal support.

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Over the years, the IVF has developed a sound functional classification system and operates this at World Championship level. In a drive to provide athletes with the best system possible, funding for continued research at both an English and American University, together with a collaborative three-year PhD study by the Department of Kinesiology at the University of Hawai'i has been launched.

Blossoming sport Since inclusion, the sport has flourished and continues to expand, attracting more and more participants each year. The Paralympics are the all-consuming end goal, an ultimate show of pride for many athletes with physical disabilities.

'Para-canoeing has one big difference from other Paralympic sports for wheelchair users, it represents freedom and beauty. In addition to being aesthetically pleasing positioned in a kayak (or a va'a) you are free on the water and this creates a sense of selfesteem', commented one Brazilian paddling celebrity.

Christine Selinger

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'Weather conditions play a big role in para-canoe because we cannot steer kayaks or even V1 how an able-bodied person might'. says Christine Selinger a Canadian twice Gold-medallist (V1-LTA) and double Silver winner (K1-TA) at the 2010 and 2011 ICF Canoe Sprint World Championships and bronze medalist at the 2012 ICF Para-Canoe World Championships, Poznań.

Many elite para-va'a paddlers were already naturally gifted athletes before their injuries. V1 paddling without the use of a rudder, is in a sense a leveller for many able bodied paddlers, rudderless paddling therefore is a challenge for allcomers regardless of physical challenges.

The number of participants of para-va'a is growing yearly proving that paddle sports in general is above all else, a beautiful, graceful, low impact sport, which connects not only people with people, but also connects people with the elements and nature itself.

With increased participation and demand, national federations are turning their attention toward the sport. Traditionally Brazil, Canada, Great Britain, Hungry and Italy have been the most developed nations for the sport, however New Zealand and Tahiti, where va'a paddling is particularly strong, are now showing increasing dominance in the para-va'a events.

Tahitian Patrick Viriamu won Gold in V1 200m (LTA, TA, A) at the 2010 ICF Canoe Sprint World Championships and a Silver at the 2011 ICF Para-Canoe World Championships, both in Poznań.

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Challenges London's Paralympics of 2012, set the standard for Paralympic sport. Media interest in disability sport was plentiful and the general public were more aware of the Paralympics than ever. Looking onto Rio 2016, it will boast an 8-event programme in K1 and V1 200m.

Classifications can be problematic.

'Those who may be missing one arm or have very limited use of their arms can definitely still paddle, but find it incredibly difficult to compete against athletes with more function. I would like to see the addition of new classifications as the number of athletes competing continues to grow'.

Changing classifications affects boat design; size and weight. '. . . I would also like to see stricter practices around boat control for both canoes and kayaks in order to make the races as fair as possible. The major boat companies should develop newer models to fit the para-canoe standards as well as further development to change the standards in order to give each athlete more choice over the type of boat they use'. Christine Selinger.

Looking beyond Rio 2016 Para-va'a can only continue to get bigger, even more so now it has Paralympic status. It will continue to evolve as va'a technology continues to do so. We may see more classifications added to the Paralympic event list. In 2011 the K1 Intellectual Disability Category was included at the Special Olympic World Summer Games in Athens, the ICF recognises this opportunity and are working in harmony with the IPC to expand this part of the sport.

Other events could be added in addition to the new classifications, Christine suggested, perhaps similar to piloted Paralympic cyclists. 'It would be nice to have para-canoe also find a way for individuals with vision loss to compete as well. Maybe someday we will have K4s on the water!'

There are rumours within the sports sphere of the possibility of merging the Olympics and Paralympic Games. 'It would certainly change things if they did – but I think it would change things for the better', outlined Christine positively.

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Rules and classifications Competitors sprint over 200m. There are currently eight different events and this has the potential to increase as the sport develops further.

The classification system is based on an athlete's functional ability to paddle and apply force to the foot board or seat in order to propel the canoe.

The ICF recognises three classes for para-canoe (LTA, TA, A) while the IVF recognises six. Refinements are being worked on to bring the IVF and the ICF systems into alignment with IPC standards. The following is a blend of the two classification systems.

LTA — IVF 5 & 6 point paddler The LTA Class is for paddlers with a disability who have functional use of their legs, trunk and arms for paddling and who can apply force to the foot board or the seat to propel the boat.

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Eligible LTA paddlers may typically have a disability equivalent to one of the following: Amputee, neurological impairment equivalent to incomplete lesion at S1, cerebral palsy class 8 (CPISRA) LTA paddlers should meet the minimum disability requirements, which is as follows.

A full loss of three fingers on one hand, or at least a tarsal metatarsal amputation of the foot, or the loss of ten points on one limb or fifteen points across two limbs when assessed using the Functional Classification Test as set out in the Classification Application Form for Physical Disabilities and the ICF Classifiers Instructors Manual.

TA – IVF 4 point paddler The TA Class is for those with use of the trunk and arms. They are unable to apply continuous, controlled force to the footboard or seat to propel the boat due to a weakened function of the lower limbs.

TA paddlers typically have a disability equivalent to at least one of these: Bilateral around knee amputation or significantly, impaired quadriceps, neurological impairment equivalent to a complete lesion at L3 level, or an incomplete lesion at L1, cerebral palsy class 5 (CP-ISRA)

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V1 - A Paddler's Guide Art by Jaabi Faari

A – IVF 1 – 3 point paddler The A Class is for paddlers who have no trunk function, or those who have shoulder function only. An A-Class paddler is able to apply force predominantly using the arms and/or shoulders and is likely to have poor sitting balance.

Eligible A-Class paddlers may typically have a disability equivalent to at least one of the following: Cerebral palsy class 4 (CP-ISRA), neurological impairment with a complete lesion at T12 level, or an incomplete lesion at T10

V1 Specifications Length 6.40m - 8.0m Ama Length 200-275cm

Min Width 35cm Min Width 12cm

Min Wt 10kg

Min Width 40cm Min Width 12cm

Min Wt 20kg

V2 Specifications Length 6.70m - 8.5m Ama Length 275cm -445cm

General notes Modifications are permitted for stability if the va'a is made slower i.e. the addition of stabilising pontoons. Adaptation equipment is not regulated. It is included as part of the weight of the boat if it is securely attached. For V1 rudders are not permitted. *The Ama is attached on the left side. *Though this rule is included, there are instances where the ama is attached to the right, as evidenced in video footage and images - which may be a factor attributed to bias required on account of the paddlers limitations and therefore there is softening of the rules in this instance.

Currently all para-canoe competitions are held over 200m.

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4 V1 Design Considerations

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' The Society Islanders are justly credited with being at one time the most enterprising of Polynesian voyagers . . .There is substantial evidence that Tahitian influence caused extensive modification of the customs of the original inhabitants of Hawai'i . . . Paddling canoes (pu hoe) are always dugouts, ranging between 15 and 28 feet in length, with a breadth (outside) of 16 - 19 inches and a depth of 12 to 18 inches . . . the hull is slab-sided and round-bottomed, the bottom straight for the greater part of its length.' Haddon & Hornell 1937, Canoes of Oceania.

V1 racing craft Designed specifically for racing, V1 race craft, have followed an evolutionary pathway, which began with flat water lagoon designs nurtured by such events as the Heiva I Tahiti festival races in Papeete, Tahiti. These va'a were profoundly different and remained so for well over 100 years of racing.

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The hull void was largely open, the free-board was very shallow, the hull very narrow and lengths where long by today's standards; 27 - 28 feet. The European equivalent was that of a rowing scull, so much so, that rowing sculls were in fact modified in Australia by the likes of Gordon Jefferies and Gus Angus of DownUnder Canoes with the inclusion of an outrigger assembly.

Ian 'Rambo' Newland paddles a converted rowing scull created by Australian Gordon Jefferies late 1990s.

What is perhaps not fully appreciated, is that because 'traditional' Tahitian racing va'a were so prone to swamping on account of having very low free-board and being open decked, generations of Tahitian paddlers (and paddlers throughout the Society Islands) learnt to paddle very smoothly so as to avoid any adverse movement, more especially side to side, so as their entire focus was on smooth, forward propulsion with little emphasis on 'driving downward' associated more with OC1 paddling. Children learned to paddle in this manner from a young age and it became characteristic of all Tahitian paddlers.

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www.kanuculture.com V1 sport really began its metamorphosis from around the mid 1980s, growing from being a cultural touchstone into full blown going concern as an area of high end specialisation. V1 design had to be reconsidered and along with it, paddling skills were elevated along with training regimes and the prestige associated with winning emerging V1 specific races, which singled out the island's leading exponents and stars of their national sport.

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Sir Joseph Banks who voyaged with Captain Cook in 1768–1771, noted that all the canoes of the Society Islands were so narrow that, to render them safe, they had to be furnished with an outrigger, or formed into double-canoes. He considered the former much less safe than the latter, as he saw outrigger canoes over-turned, '. . . very often'.

What this meant of course, was that the design parameters of the va'a dictated the manner in which it had to be paddled in order that swamping did not occur and any ideas of going beyond the reef in such craft, was considered dangerous accept for when the ocean was glassy.

Open-decked OC1 during the pioneering days of convertingV1 to OC1.

Note the water in the hull void.

Walter Guild - Photo Jeff Hornbaker.

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In the late 1970s when Paul Gaye returned from Tahiti to Hawai'i bringing with him a Tahitian lagoon styled racing canoe it was of this design and even as late as 1986 when Walter Guild acquired a V1 from Tahiti, little had changed.

But changes were being made, with hulls receiving deck-covers which were stretching ever further from nose to tail toward the recess in which the paddler sat, often, on a simple plank straddling the edges.

While American paddlers of Hawai'i got to work in using the V1 as some basis for the evolution of the sit on top, rudder steered OC1, Tahitian paddlers were already embracing the idea of making design changes to their racing va'a so as they too could go beyond their lagoons and reefs.

Since the mid 1970s Tahitian crews had been coming to Hawai'i to compete in the famous Moloka'i Hoe races and with great success and this had created a new vision for open ocean racing and training and of course design, not just of their V6 but also of their V1.

They would later go on to create the V3 in the mid 1980s, a variant V6 design which for a short time fostered a new level of racing and training, but it died out after a while, though once again this is gaining traction and interest as far away as Europe.

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1890

1968

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1969

1971

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When Te Aito was founded in 1988, this heralded the beginning of a revolutionary rethink regarding the design of the va'a. The time was right for change and from this the ocean racing va'a began an upward trajectory of evolution which had a flow on effect into consideration of their flat water racing va'a.

Technical terms There are some curious oddities regarding contemporary technical terms when compared to more traditional. For example in the Society Islands, pu hoe referred to a small single person outrigger canoe and the term va'a motu was used to describe a sailing outrigger canoe. Today va'a hoe seems to be the more common term, where hoe means paddle and hence the association of a va'a propelled by a paddle.

With regards the outrigger assembly, within the Society Islands, i'ato is the name given to the outrigger boom, kiato in Aotearoa - New Zealand and ama is as for the Hawaiian islands, referring to the float attached to the booms. Waka ama is the common term for an outrigger canoe in New Zealand, hence W1, W2 etc.

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www.kanuculture.com Tiatia

Ama

Taamuraa i'ato - the area of the i'ato, where the lashing wraps to attach to the tiatia (stanchion) connective.

I'ato - Tahiti Kiato - Maori I'ako - Hawai'i

Raised stanchions (tiatia) onto which the i'ato are attached, represent an indirect method of attachment, unlike OC1 connections or some new V1 models including the IVF va'a which can be considered, direct.

In New Zealand,' The old-time Maori must certainly have used "kiato" generally for the outrigger boom, for the word remains today as a word for thwart.' Haddon & Hornell, Canoes of Oceania, 1937, p,198 and 'The float of an outrigger canoe was ordinarily known by the Maori as ama, the usual Polynesian term, but amatiatia was also sometimes employed (Best, 1925, p,18); as tiatia is the Tahitian word for the stanchion connectives of outriggers, the original meaning of amatiatia would be 'stanchioned float . . .'

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Lagoon (flat water) va'a hoe hulls Commercially speaking, manufacture of a stand alone specific flat water sprint V1 has made little economic sense and hence most are generic designs which attempt to double as ocean going craft, all in the one package. If you took the purest view, you would see something similar to a rowing scull, as indeed existed in Tahiti some years ago and can still be seen there today.

They would be longer than the average V1 of 23', more approximating 25' upward, even reaching 27' and super narrow throughout their entire length, more so than their ocean racing V1 counterparts.

'While in California and with the assistance of Philippe Bernadino, I developed the Teva I Tai, a va'a more in line with the style currently being used in Tahiti. It is a smaller hull than the Teva Nui and suited for all ocean conditions'. Tiger

' This canoe (Teva I Tai) is the second generation, rudderless canoe designed by Phillipe Bernadino and Tiger. The first version was the venerable Teva Nui which was used in three IVF World Sprints. The world sprints use only V1 for individual racing'.

For practical and economic reasons, this va'a is not 100% designed for flat water sprint racing, being that there is an acceptance that paddlers for the most part want a va'a that has more all-round application. A highly refined purpose made flat water sprint va'a would replicate a design similar to that of a rowing scull and would be utterly impractical for open water use and may have limited appeal.

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Chinned (V-shaped) hulls are still a feature, the chine running from the bow, long into the hull, then into a fully displaced (rounded) hull, the chine being reintroduced in the rear quarter. This assists directional stability (straight line performance) essentially on the sprint course.

Very low freeboard (hull height above the waterline) minimises negative affects of windage, while added water line length and sleekness, improves glide time and displacement speed while reducing drag. Rowing sculls offer the same benefits in adopting these design lines.

Rocker (fore to aft curvature) added to a hull works on the principal that as the hull 'rocks' between waves, the foot-print (area) in contact with water remains relatively constant, even though it is shifting.

Minimal rocker is added to flat water V1, so as much of the water-line length as possible is used and also in order to avoid 'pushing water' or encouragement of the nose to lift at speed. The idea here is for the hull to run smooth and flat with no lift, consequently both nose and tail are super fine so as to minimise drag at the entry point of the nose and release of the water aft, which needs to 'zip' back together neatly ensuring the hull is not retarded by water particles revolving backward at the exit, thereby pulling it down.

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The nose is super sleek and low volume and its sinking or being driven forwards and downwards, can assist in adding speed through what amounts to a surging motion - too much buoyancy resisting the bows efforts to submerge can actually lead to a loss of speed through upward forces.

All round va'a hoe hulls Ocean and 'all-round' designed V1 hulls, are generally of around 23' and are designed to be as sleek and streamlined as possible, with rounded hulls, some added rear chine and varying amounts of marginal rocker.

'There has been a steady trend in V-1 design of adding rocker and accentuating the hard V on the bottom towards the ends, while rounding it out in the middle. That allows the canoe to remain manoeuvrable in the surf when the tail releases, while allowing it to track in the flat'. Luke Evslin, Kamanu Hawai'i

Torpedo like in design, the V1 is purpose made to be as sleek as possible, with sufficient buoyancy for the paddler, the remainder of the craft is minimalised.

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www.kanuculture.com Philippe Bernadino 1984 Heiva I Tahiti Festival.

It's incredible to think how far the V1 sport has evolved in only a very short amount of time, including paddle designs, though very much smaller blade areas where already in general use in differing canoe sports at this time.

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The designer is confronted with a different set of primary considerations, most notably the control of the hull by paddle skills alone and some shift of body weight. Handling and control of the V1 is improved in rough water, through a reduction in volume (buoyancy) reducing any tendency towards being 'corky' which would cause it to be thrown-around more violently. In short they are wet-boats, requiring a minimum of everything, all accepting the ama, which gains beefed up concentrated volume and often a slight shortening in length.

Rocker Too much rocker (curvature running fore and aft) will cause the hull to 'rock' backward and forward which profoundly affects the handling of the hull, in the case of a rudderless va'a this is a negative trait. Hence a relatively straight hull is preferred, which, though it will have a less constant foot-print length in not rocking between waves, the overall handling proves to be more consistent and predictable.

Rather than a continual curve in the classic sense of 'rocker' which can cause 'rocking' between waves, V1 tend to have a more angular rocker profile, from the bow the curvature runs into a straight section under the paddler, then is angled upward toward the tail. This still permits the hull to have some fit between waves, whereas an OC1 is designed to be very 'loose' within the context of riding waves downwind, V1 must maintain connection with the ocean so as to be 'engaged' rather than 'disengaged' with the water around it.

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The Society Islands (Tahiti and her islands) Special mention of Tahiti and her islands and the paddlers who populate these island groups need be mentioned. In the world of outrigger canoeing and known by its other names of waka ama (New Zealand Aotearoa) and va'a hoe in the Society Islands, within the global family of 'outrigger canoeists' to use the Eurocentric vernacular, paddlers from these islands are quite uniquely on another level of excellence - a level which has been hard to quantify.

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Streamlining Common to the Tahitian way of thinking when designing open water va'a, the bow and forward portion of the hull, is designed with minimal volume and with maximum attention to streamlining, so as to emulate a torpedo or dolphin's form in being super sleek and permitting water to flow and release.

The view here is that the forward portion of the hull should be designed as an under-water craft in totality - it should be fast 'under water', by virtue of design, should it submerge. When the bow is submerged during downwind paddling, directional stability is increased and high levels of speed can be maintained.

Many V1 ocean craft are designed with this factor in mind, right up to the level of cockpit area. Sweeping backward, the above waterline area of the hull is kept to a minimum and it sweeps rapidly downward (height) to the tail and inward (width) to create a pin-tail to minimise windage.

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V1 and OC1 basic comparison principles All these design factors are for the most part in complete contrast to the AngloHawaiian OC1, which are built upward and outward, to increase volume and thereby ensure submersion is minimised if not avoided all-together, though some OC1 designs have embraced the idea of permitting the bow to wavepierce when paddling downwind - and upwind but are not considered as specialised.

There are however some very basic scientific (hydro-dynamic) principles which we know to be true. Arm yourself with some of this knowledge and you will be better able to understand the nuances of any particular va'a even before you paddle it.

V1 racing craft are profoundly different from that of the Anglo-Hawaiian OC1, so much so that it's reasonable to consider them as different paddle sports entirely. From the sit-inside cockpit, raised stanchion rigging points for the i'ato (kiato) to the hull (non-direct) and use of rubber lashing (non-traditional) these are almost superficial traditional values when compared perhaps to the most significant issue of all, the use of the paddle to both propel, steer and control the hull.

Emotions have run high at times when cultural boundaries and ideologies have been crossed even during the evolution of the V1. Today as a result of emerging factors, we are on the cusp of seeing the V1 rising to a new level of prominence.

Anglo-Hawaiian V1 design interpretations Kamanu Hawai'i, have designed the Aukahi as a highly controllable V1 for Hawaiian open waters which opens the way for paddlers to enjoy and learn the craft of paddling rudderless. This is a very positive evolution even if the use of rubber rigging has been replaced with push and lock systems. ' The Aukahi is the first V-1 designed specifically for Hawaiian ocean conditions. The goal was a rudderless canoe that was manoeuvrable in the surf with adequate tracking ability in the flat. Because a V-1 is controlled by the interaction between the hull shape, the ocean and the paddle, it is incredibly difficult to get the right balance of manoeuvrability and tracking ability. Sometimes you want it to go straight as an arrow and sometimes you want it to be able to spin on a dime. And the perfect V-1 would theoretically be able to do both. While we won't claim that ours is perfect, we did get pretty close to our goal.' Kamanu Hawai'i

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At 23'4" this is substantially longer than Kamanu's very successful Pueo at 20'8". Typically with a rudderless V1, greater water line length assists direction stability and straight line speed. The high volume, 'catamaran' styled ama, also assist directional control as a highly curved ama, with its footprint being on the rear aft section, would encourage the va'a to round up to the left.

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www.kanuculture.com The void which separates OC1 and V1 is deep and wide and it all centres around the seating and the method of steering, one in which you sit on and use foot steering pedals to control direction (OC1)one in which you sit in and use blade, body and weight distribution to control direction (V1) These images from Kamanu Hawai'i show the stark contrast between the two craft.

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If we consider some of the design strategies of contemporary designers regarding the claims made in relation to performance, we can gain insight into the design ideas implemented.

Designed and built in New Zealand by Team Hoe Toa, the Manini V1 represents the latest evolution in rudderless one-person canoe design, drafted and optimised using 3D marine design technology and a prototype tested over two years in New Zealand waters by some of New Zealand’s top paddlers, it's interesting to read the explanation of their approach.

'Overall, the Manini is 7.3 metres long, in-line with Tahitian style va'a. The nose is refined and sharp, enabling it to slice through waves and chop more efficiently. Its low profile, means less wind resistance in side wind conditions. The cockpit area has been moved 20cm forward from traditional va'a, which moves the paddler’s weight forward enabling the va'a to drop into waves faster. More volume in the front was added (to accommodate for the weight shift) which has created a longer release aft which minimises frictional resistance and optimises fast top-end speeds.

The cockpit shape was designed for the paddler to utilise the hips for steering control by being comfortable on the rear and sides of the cockpit. On the hull, we found that having the longitudinal ‘V’ (chine) increased the directional tracking making it easier to maintain optimum paddler power-strokes. Manoeuvrability was also improved by tweaking the rocker (overall ‘banana’ shape) in 3 successive design iterations'.

Manini shape set out to optimise run (glide) in flat-water and provide a finetuned tweakable amount of manoeuvrability for surf. The Manini is claimed to to offer a compromise between paddler weight, buoyancy and surf steering control. The 2013 Manini (MK I) comes standard with the Manu ama from Tahiti and uses plug-in adjustable aluminium kiato.

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'Traditional Origin' outrigger canoes (ruddered hybrids) Member countries of the IVF, needed V1's to train on and in more than one instance the Surfrigger (and other designs) was retro-fitted with a rudder system to make a more 'versatile' craft which doubled both as a V1 and a hybrid V1 / OC1 craft which combines in some regards, the ideal variant all accepting the cultural and philosophical issue of the addition of the steering mechanism.

Flying in the face of all that has manifested from the evolution of the Anglo-Polynesian OC1, the addition of a rudder to a modern day ocean racing V1 to create a hybrid V1 / OC1, solves some issues of purity of origin, but in negating the use of paddle skills to control the craft, it still falls short in being pure; but it's close and permits the user to remove the rudder when needing to train for rudderless racing.

It's perplexing why this variant has not been exploited more widely, as it offers a very tempting option. New Zealand has pioneered this blend more so than any other region and this may well be on account of wanting to remain true to traditional values, while remaining enclosed also protects from the cooler waters and seasons. Adding a rudder, by default, adds another level of safety and practicality in harsh waters.

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Southern Outriggers of New Zealand express ' . . . determined to produce craft that offer longevity in the spirit of outrigger canoeing through the ages. Design philosophy is based on a concept allied to the traditional outrigger canoes of Oceania. This implies the adherence to a configuration which has the hull, or waka, comprising the essential component of the craft itself - as seen on all canoes from the earliest of times until now, in places like Tahiti, Aotearoa and Hawai'i. Paddlers sit in the waka, on a bench seat, which serves as a structural component, rather than sitting on the deck. In adherence to traditional canoe design, kiato are secured by lashings, as seen on open water canoes of the Pacific'.

'The Wahu is not so much a Tahitian va'a with a rudder fitted . . . but a rough water canoe with the ability to be paddled well without a rudder.

This design objective is achieved in compromising the rudderless paddling ability more than open water ability, where a Wahu will compete with any sit-on OC of the same weight.' Southern Outriggers.

The only caveat one should make mention of when lashing is discussed in traditional terms, is the reality that sennit has been replaced with rubber innertube and that there's little or no semblance of traditional lashing weave used per se - just simply 'tension under-wrapping' as can be achieved with multiple tight wraps of rubber inner-tube. The art and skill of lashing with cord has all but been nullified as a consequence.

More's the point, it's the non-direct connectivity and the level of adjustability and micro-management of trim one can achieve during this lashing (rigging) process and this should permit the inclusion of chocks (shims) in order to alter the trim of the ama to ensure the full range of rigging options can be explored.

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V1 ama design in relation to control Due to the demands placed on the paddler of the rudderless va'a, the designers must factor in certain design elements in order to assist the paddler. Both lagoon styled and ocean V1 ama tend to be straighter in design than those found on OC1, which often have high degrees of curvature and a small rear foot-print. So important is ama (and i'ato) design, that Tahitian paddlers often have a variety on hand and buy from differing manufacturers and designers.

The reasons for this are perhaps not at first clear, but in essence using an ama with a longer foot-print, ensures the centre of buoyancy of the primary hull and that of the secondary hull (ama) are near level so as to counter-balance each other, by having their widest points (centre of buoyancy) opposite each other.

Additionally the paddler's centre of gravity is therefore more directly opposite the centre of buoyancy of the ama.

The consequences of adding an ama which is radically curved to a V1, so it travels on its rear third as we see with many OC1 ama, would result in a drastic pull to the left, especially when paddling on the right side of the primary hull.

This is due to ama drag being aft of the corresponding central point of buoyancy of the primary hull, which creates a 'pulling' effect, acting to pull the hull left. Think of a fulcrum (balance) point along the length of the ama and the hull and the affects of torque upon them. When out of alignment the primary hull could be said to lack directional stability by relative degrees of off-set, the greater the off-set, the greater the effect.

Though V1 ocean racing ama are different from flat water ama, the primary difference is in the increase in volume, with only marginal shortening of its foot-print, the water line-length remaining 'long' by comparison with many OC1 ama.

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V1 ama are comparatively straighter with a longer footprint than many highly curved OC1 ama to prevent rounding up and to create greater directional balance between ama and hull.

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V1 design issues with relation to paddling application Paddle craft which are designed so as if they submerge at the bow, do so with minimal resistance in the same way as a porpoise (or dolphin) and designed to 'porpoise' when breaking the surface and re-entering in a sense contribute in a positive downward, yet forward trajectory in contrast to some craft which are overly buoyant so as to resist this motion, but in doing so, some of the forward momentum is absorbed and lost in a negative noncontributory manner.

As the paddler swings through the recovery, the bow rises upward from being submerged, then forwards and downwards in a contributory direction forward.

C1 padding craft are designed along these lines and hence C1 paddlers will tend to deliver the stroke with some degree of downward drive, rotating and driving from the hip aided by a higher kneeling position.

Craft with greater amounts of buoyancy toward the bow, designed purposefully not to submerge, need to be paddled smoothly to avoid any tendency to bury downward as this results in a bow wave, usually forward propelled which translates into drag. In this regard, sturgeon bows (reversed backward) or very sharp arrow like bows are common to the V1 design in Tahiti.

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Customisation So important is the correct fitment of the V1 to the paddler in Tahiti, customers can specify a number of custom changes to their craft, specifically, seat height and positioning, cockpit height and the positioning of the front bulkhead and the addition of foot-chocks.

Seat height Being able to ask for the seat to be raised or lowered, moved forward or backward can have dramatic affects upon delivery of power to the blade and overall control of the craft.

Raising the seat can provide added mechanical advantages in both steering and power delivery. What it can do, is make for a more lively va'a being as your centre of gravity is raised, but this can be offset by added control gained by sitting higher.

Many top level Tahitian paddlers, appear to be barely within the cockpit, in fact at times, their leading leg is pressed up against the bulkhead and the rear leg is out across the cockpit, while this is a very personal choice, it's clear that the paddlers fit and relationship with the cockpit is a central factor in comfort and control.

Seat positioning The positioning of the paddler either forward or backward alters the paddler's centre of gravity acting downward on the hull, but it also affects their position relative to the centre of buoyancy of the ama. This may be limited by the paddlers leg length, but it ultimately allows for placing the paddler in the ideal location relative to these factors.

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Cockpit height Although not obvious, the rim of the cockpit area, particularly its height, can be restrictive when changing sides with the paddle, as commonly the blade makes contact with its edge - it's therefore advantageous to lower this as much as possible. In addition, because you will steer by pressuring the shaft and your hand against the side of the hull to steer on occasions, you want to ensure the cockpit does not restrict this steering stroke.

Below: This cockpit rim is set low. You can see the height of the paddler's knees well above the level of the cockpit, suggesting the seat is set high.

The rear push stroke he's executing brings the hand very close to the edge of the cockpit area, against which you can pry your hand, but it must not be impeded by sharp edges or harsh angles. The entire fit of the paddler in relation to the width of their hips, leg length and weight, must be married with cockpit width, bulkhead positioning and seat positioning. The higher you can sit relative to your feet the greater the control you can deliver to paddle (blade) and therefore the va'a. Not all va'a offer this level of customisation, but at elite level, micro-management is crucial.

Sprint racing at IVF races, places paddlers in the predicament of a onedesign va'a which provides little room for adjustment and certainly no time for adjustments between races. Hence the art of refinement is more reserved for open water craft.

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Cockpit customisation Working with the Tahitian V1 used during the making of this book the vital statistics are; Seat height 18cm (7") from floor, 28cm (11") from rear bulkhead and 92cm (3') from front bulkhead.

If I had to change this to suit my own physiology, I would raise the seat by 1", move the seat forward 2" (for reasons of catching runners) and the front bulkhead 6" back, so as I could use it to brace the feet as required. I would pad the seat and side walls for added comfort and a snug fit. All these details can make or break your fit within the va'a.

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5 Ta'amura'a te Va'a Binding together of the Va'a

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Ta'amura'a va'a (Binding together of the va'a) Whether you're a novice or elite paddler, you'll want your V1 to run smooth and straight and much of the secret is in taking the time to rig the ama so as to be in near perfect tune with the primary hull, your paddling style, body weight and the conditions.

The art in achieving this, where raised stanchions are moulded into the V1 hull and rubber used to make the connection, wedges and shims used to alter the outward trajectory angle of the i'ato, there are a multiple number of micro-management adjustments available to the paddler.

Preparing rubber inner-tube for rigging.

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This method is known as indirect rigging, where the i'ato do not slot into the ama or the hull of the va'a as seen on contemporary OC1 (and increasingly with emerging V1 designs) but are lashed onto the ama and to va'a.

Where the i'ato are lashed to va'a, this is known as ta'amura'a iato (binding together of the i'ato - where the i'ato are lashed to the va'a) - in Polynesian mythology, ta'amura'a-ra'a, means “The binding together of sacredness�.

Too many V1 paddlers fail to make a science of the rigging process and pay the price for taking a casual indifference. The fact is, the smallest amount of any number of factors can result in your fighting the run of the craft, so as it is working against you, not with you. A V6 steerer knows this problem only too well. The skill in rigging a V1 is no less critical than rigging its larger cousin.

While the emergence of V1 designs featuring direct methods of attachment, through the inclusion of push and lock-in systems, is perhaps changing the face of micro-managing the rigging characteristics, the knowledge of how to rig in any circumstance is a valuable asset.

Rubber (tyre) inner-tube The Tahitians are the pioneers and masters in the use of rubber inner-tube and in many respects it works very well, its biggest downfall being its rate of deterioration, which is proportional to exposure to UV / sunlight, humidity and whether it is rinsed with fresh water after use. It may need replacing every 2 - 3 months.

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Note that it may look OK at first glance, but as you unravel it, you may notice the elasticity has diminished and that the surface is pitted with small holes or side splits replace. If you wrap duct tape around it, the glue will act to eat away at the rubber and trap moisture, so avoid the temptation to use.

Generally speaking tyre inner tubes work just fine - cut into lengths of 1.5m lengths (4-5’) x 10cm-20cm (1") width. Inner-tube is as handy as duct tape in being able to use to secure a spare paddle and other items and a spare length can easily be attached to the i'ato. Note in very cold climates, rubber will be harder to stretch and may need pre-heating.

V1 with direct method of rigging Direct rigging of a V1 (into pre-determined slots within the hull and ama) requires somewhat less application of effort, as much of the thinking should have been done for you by the designer, given that the possibilities for set-up and trim of the ama and distance set out from the hull are limited by the number of adjustment holes or notches provided.

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You will still need to take note of the differing settings in view of how they affect the interaction between hull and ama. Your body weight and ability are central to this process.

It's not so much tradition under any threat here or the loss of application of lashing skills - what's being lost, is the infinite variation of fine-tuning of the hull in relation to the ama, critical and individualistic to differing paddlers and central to the relationship the paddler forms with their craft. For durability and speed of rigging, the system works well, but may fall short of being adjusted optimally.

Affects of climbing on board The heavier you are, the deeper you will sink the primary hull, causing the ama to sit ever higher relative to the hull and in addition the further the hull will 'roll' away from the ama side toward the right. This must be considered during the process of rigging by pre-empting the net affect once you are on the water paddling.

A V1 should fit you like a shoe in every sense, where the cockpit could be considered your shoe size and the rigging, the laces, which pull the shoe together to give you the best feel and potential performance. If you 'slop' around from one side to the other, like an oversized shoe, you wont feel secure. Too tight and you'll get sore areas akin to blisters, just as you will from shoes being too tight or loose. A V1 is not so much sat in, but worn, so the fit is important.

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This is crucial to the nuances of how the V1 handles. Fine-tuning of your V1 to suit your paddling style, body weight, conditions of wind and water are critical to its steering qualities and general run.

Jumping between V1 not set up for you, can have dramatic, negative consequences, therefore knowing how to rig your V1 for any given set of conditions is an essential skill intrinsic to your paddling and the more dynamic the conditions, the truer this becomes.

Stability An unstable va'a can be classified when it displays any number of characteristics; pulling hard left, a twitchy ama, too much lean in on the ama, all lead to your spending more time fighting the va'a and compensating for its adverse behaviour. In the case of V1, the presence of the ama greatly affects the dynamics of stability, unlike any other craft. It can provide stability or instability according to how it has been rigged.

There are a number of useful descriptive terms to identify various states of stability. The subject is a complex one, involving differing states of equilibrium between forces, which include; centre of gravity, buoyancy, metacentric heights and righting levers, centred around the laws of physics and beyond the scope of this publication.

Stability along differing angles of plane TRANSVERSE Side to side.

LONGITUDINAL Fore and aft.

VERTICAL Up and down.

The hull's ability to return to an upright position after being heeled by an external force, can be defined between three forms of 'stability'.

POSITIVE NEGATIVE NEUTRAL

Va'a returns to original position after inclination.

Inclines - continues moving away from original position.

Va'a, after inclining, remains in an inclined position.

Linear motions Surging The backward and forward motion of the hull's direction of travel along a longitudinal, fore and aft axis. Power from the stroke surges the va'a forward, which is negated and finally halted by forces of resistance. Surge can also originate from moving water, i.e. catching runners, bumps, swells and waves.

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Swaying The sideways motion of the va'a perpendicular to the direction of travel along a transverse (sideways) axis, caused by paddler offsetting the va'a from a direct path or from the singular or combined affects of side winds, currents, waves and swell action.

Heaving The up and down motion of the va'a along a vertical, up and down axis, due to movement of the paddler during the entry and exit phase of the stroke. Also present when the va'a travels up and over waves and swell.

Angular and rotational motions Rolling A rotational motion along the longitudinal, fore and aft axis of the va'a, from one side to the other.

Pitching An angular motion along the transverse (side to side) axis where the bow and stern move alternatively up and down. Very common in the open ocean when paddling into and with the swell and waves.

Yawing A rotational motion along the vertical axis with the bow and stern crossing paths along an imagined straight path.

List The va'a is listed, when inclined by forces within the hull. Movement of the paddler’s body weight is a good example. A paddler is essentially fixed cargo, however as body weight shift, so to do the effects of list. Skilled paddlers are very aware of the effects of their body weight within the va'a - and know how and when to shift their body weight to either increase or decrease compression upon the ama. Excessive water within the va'a causes differing degrees of list.

Heel Va'a is heeled, when inclined by an external force such as wind or wave action.

Trim The longitudinal equivalent of list, measured in terms of the differences in draft, fore and aft. Because the relative speed of a va'a is slow and the hull is of a non-planing type, ideally the va'a (and ama) needs to be level when loaded with paddler on flat water, stationary or in motion. Trim is an important facet of all water craft, greatly affecting the hull’s efficiency. Exceptions to having level

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trim, i.e. having bias of trim towards the bow may have its merits in the case of down-wind paddling, when punching into head winds to reduce the pitching motion of the hull.

Loll A va'a which floats at an angle from the vertical, to one side or the other, can be considered to possess loll. If disturbed by some external force; wind and or waves, the va'a may tend to move towards that angle of loll. The manner in which the va'a has been rigged often determines how much loll may exist towards (left) or away (right) from the ama. It is common to rig the va'a so that without paddler, it lolls marginally to the left. When loaded the hull ideally will level out.

Other factors Draft The depth of water required for the va'a to float freely, measured from the extreme underneath of the hull to the waterline. This increases as weight is added within the hull, resulting in increased wetted surface and therefore drag.

Freeboard Vertical distance from the waterline to the lowest point of the gunnel is called freeboard. Va'a have only a small freeboard, the maximum being within the centre of the hull where the paddler sits. When the va'a is travelling through waves and breaks free of the water, the freeboard at the front and rear of the va'a increases and decreases dramatically.

Lightweight - Dead weight The va'a total weight when empty. Dead weight is the total amount of weight that the va'a can carry loaded to its maximum draft.

Load displacement The total weight of the va'a plus maximum amount of additional weight it can carry. Lightweight + Dead weight = Load Displacement Centre of gravity The central point at which the entire weight of the va'a can be said to be acting vertically downwards. The height of the centre of gravity is measured vertically from a reference point; usually the keel or hull line. The paddler's weight should be sitting near level with the hull's centre of gravity, which more often than not should also be its centre of buoyancy.

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Centre of buoyancy Buoyancy is the upward force of a fluid that opposes the weight of an immersed object. Archimedes Principle states; 'Every floating body displaces its own weight of the liquid in which it floats.’ For any vessel to float freely in water, its weight must be equal to the weight of the volume of water it displaces. The va'a will displace the most water, where its hull has the most volume; where it can also cope with the largest amount of weight without affecting freeboard to the same extent as areas of smaller volume. Therefore, the paddler should sit where the volume is greatest, often this is the hull's 'sweet-spot'.

'The upward buoyancy force on an object acts through the centre of buoyancy, being the centroid of the displaced volume of fluid. The weight force on the object acts through its center of gravity. A buoyant object will be stable if the center of gravity is beneath the center of buoyancy because any angular displacement will then produce a 'righting moment'.

Transverse stability When the va'a is in an upright position in still water, the centre of buoyancy and centre of gravity will be positioned in vertical alignment above the keel. If the va'a is inclined by an external force causing heel, a wedge of buoyancy - part of the hull, on the opposing side, will be brought out of the water, while the other side of the hull will be immersed.

Equilibrium and unstable equilibrium A state of equilibrium exists for the hull when it is inclined and then returns to the vertical position. A state of unstable equilibrium exists when it is inclined at a small angle and the va'a tends to heel further and is in danger of capsizing.

Moment of statical stability (righting moment) This relates to the force involved in returning the hull to an upright position and concerns the weight of the va'a bearing down through the centre of gravity, multiplied by the righting lever.

The counterpoise effect of the ama greatly affects the ability of the va'a to return to an upright state, whereby its weight within a limited angle of tolerance is acting to safeguard and return the hull to an upright position. When a va'a begins to roll, the hull being narrow and often very rounded (displaced), it's 'moment of statical stability' is somewhat compromised, but it will tend to slow as it angles onto the flatter side of the hull wall.

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Stiff and tender Weight added to a va'a causes the centre of gravity to move in the direction of that weight, i.e. it is lowered, making it harder to heel and roll, known as being 'stiff'. A paddler’s weight acts directly downwards, lowers the va'a centre of gravity, but the weight is spread between seat level (butt) above the gunnel (torso) and the lower hull (feet).

In rough water, as the paddler moves, they move their upper body weight and the va'a can become 'tender', i.e. it heels more readily. A light-weight paddler is said to be more tippy than a heavy one, as a heavier paddler lowers the va'a centre of gravity further; however paddler height is a factor, as tall paddlers have a higher centre of gravity than shorter paddlers.

Free surface effect Mass which moves within the hull, such as water, causes movement of weight affecting list and trim which highlights the need to bail water and to maintain a dry va'a.

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Getting started The basics involve establishing a suitable distance between the hull and the ama. This distance between the two will have a direct impact on the behaviour of the va'a. The less the distance between the primary hull and the ama (secondary hull) the more unstable (light) the va'a will be, but drag on the ama can be greatly reduced as a consequence, especially if the paddler can adjust themselves to use this instability to their advantage. The further the ama moves outward from the hull, the greater the stability as a result in increased drag from downward pressure, but the harder and slower the va'a will be to respond to your efforts to correct its line of travel.

Knowing how to rig your V1 by yourself, is a skill that you must learn. Without the knowledge of how it goes together, in what order, what angle or what distance, you are going to be clueless regarding the dynamics of how both the ama and hull interact. I would go so far as to say, rigging your V1 is in some sense a right of passage - if you don't know how it goes together and the reasons for doing it in such an order and manner, then you are failing to get into the spirit of V1 paddling, which requires an intimate relationship with your craft.

Because you don't have a rudder to do the steering work for you, you're going to want to be sure you've done everything possible to have your V1 working with you, not against you.

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I'ato - the longer of the pair attaches to the rear, it may also have more curvature.

Blowing into the ama to check for leaks (air escaping or bubbles appear).

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With the advent of V1 which are now rigged using the direct method of slotting i'ato into the ama and the hull, the relationship has been somewhat watered down, even if convenient. At the risk of sounding 'Old School', rigging and the process involved, is at the heart and soul of the sport’s cultural roots - that it has not been protected by Associations, Federations, Race Organisers and endusers, the paddlers, seems an oversight.

Rigging represents a vital part of the sport’s essence, an art, irrespective of hull or ama advancements. Convenience and speed are constructs designed to save time - but time spent rigging an outrigger canoe of any description, is time well spent, a time for reflection, mental preparation, a time to let your thoughts connect with the craft, its purpose and the functionality of all the components and materials which come together to give it life and even though V1 have been rigged, very probably for the past fifty years with rubber inner-tube, wedges and shims, the process is still challenging and rewarding.

Distance setting of ama to va'a Te Va'a Factory Tahiti recommend an initial (beginner) distance of 100cm outward from the front, measuring from the middle of the hull at ta'amura'a i'ato (between the raised stanchion upon which the i'ato is mounted) to the corresponding centre line of the ama over which the i'ato sits and a distance of 102cm at the rear i'ato using the same method. This represents a toe-in of 2cm of the front of the ama.

Toe-in, or the practice of having the front leading edge of the ama closer to the hull than the rear, is used to account for drag pulling the va'a to the left, but the practice is fading out with the improvement of new ama designs. This distance is conservative and you would certainly not want to go wider than this. For those with better skills, 97-98 cm is manageable and even less. Toeing-in the front of the ama is a matter of preference, bringing mixed results.

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Benefits of ama being close to the va'a As the ama moves closer, it is rather like a pair of snow-skis coming together, so as to behave more like a mono-ski, rather than two – you should learn from the outset, to paddle with the ama as close to the hull as you can comfortably manage. The benefits are substantial. By comparison, OC1 ama are rigged very much further out from the side of the hull, therefore for OC1 paddlers this will prove to be a new experience.

Benefits include:

Va'a will respond quicker to your steering strokes.

It will require less effort to hold course and make course corrections.

The turning circle of the va'a is reduced.

Va'a is more likely to hold a straighter line.

You have more control over pressure acting down on the ama.

You can fly the ama easier if ever required.

The feel of va'a will be ‘stiffer’ and more responsive.

Less energy wasted in travelling along a shorter extension (i'ato) to the ama.

The relationship between the ama and va'a becomes more aligned.

Close proximity of the ama to the va'a ensures they are sharing similar water.

The primary hull can protect and shield ama from winds within a greater angle.

Use of wedges and shims To further adjust the trim of the ama, wedges and shims can be placed between the i'ato and the ta'amura'a i'ato (front or back) and also where the i'ato attaches to the ama, depending upon the inclination of the balance sought.

Shims are flat slivers which can be built up on one another as opposed to wedges which are angular. Here, shims have been stacked on each other to give the desired angle, the natural flex in the timber i'ato allows for the bend, hence the angle.

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This is one of the primary means of finetuning the stability of the va'a, through the use of wedges, or not, as the case may be.

Placing wedges between the i'ato and ta'amura'a i'ato at any one of the four corners, or in combination, will alter the loll inward or outward of the hull toward the ama.

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Back Outer Wedge

Back Inner Wedge

Causes va'a to loll away from the ama, greater pressure is forced downward onto the rear of the ama, the front of the ama is raised.

Causes the va'a to loll towards the ama. The rear of the ama is raised higher and it rides lower in its front section.

Ama Wedges /Shims Are used to ensure the ama runs straight, not twisted.

Front Outer Wedge Causes va'a to loll away from the ama. The ama rides closer towards its bow, while the stern rides higher.

Front Inner Wedge Causes va'a to loll towards the ama. Front of ama is raised, riding further back along its leading edge, while the stern rides lower.

Wedges / shims can be positioned in any one of 4 places where i'ato connect to the va'a and the 2 connecting points to the ama singularly or in combination as required.

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Additionally and importantly, it also alters the trim of the ama. Through careful placement of wedges, you can fine-tune not only the trim of the ama, but the va'a hull. It is the relationship between hull trim and ama trim which is so vital in creating a well-mannered, stable, responsive va'a as a collective whole.

You want to use the minimum amount of wedging, keeping in mind that the cantilevered affect will multiply out by around 4-fold as it travels the length of the i'ato to ama; so for every 1" of chock you can expect approximately 4" of rise, or fall if the wedge is reversed, outward to where i'ato meets the ama to i'ato rigging platform.

Wedges need to be thin and generally no more than 20mm at the high end.

Alternatively use 5mm thick wedges and add on top of each other for desired angle.

Shim placed on outside front stanchion, in order to level the outward trajectory of the i'ato.

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Back Inner Wedge Causes the va'a to loll towards the ama. The rear of the ama is raised higher and it rides lower in its front section.

Back Outer Wedge Causes va'a to loll away from the ama, greater pressure is forced downward onto the rear of the ama, the front of the ama is raised.

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Front Outer Wedge Causes va'a to loll away from the ama. The front of the ama rides lower, while the stern rides higher.

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The order of things Secure the front and rear i'ato temporarily to the ta'amura'a i'ato with several round turns of inner-tube ensuring adequate tension. Don't worry too much about the distance out to the ama, just approximate the distance being the same for both. Once these are secure you can then move to secure the ama to i'ato, securely. You will accurately measure and adjust the distance of ama to the hull once the ama is securely fitted to the i'ato.

This permits you to fine tune the distance with more accuracy. Usually, only one end of the i'ato need be secured at its outer extremity - a practice used when rigging larger V6 or OC6. From here, move out to the ama and i'ato and rig up so as to be 'permanent'.

Ta'amura'a (binding together) i'ato.

Begin by securing the outer extremities.

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Before moving to attach the ama, it's useful to ensure that the va'a is level using a spirit level or judge by eye. This has more to do with ensuring that when you rig the ama, that it is attached without any twist inward outward.

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Lashing the rear i'ato to ama

You can also take round-turns around the lashing pegs. The lashing pattern shown is used to lash two poles together so the configuration applies here.

The only reason you may come back and re-rig the ama, is if you need to add a wedge or shim if it's twisted in any way - leaning inward or outward.

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www.kanuculture.com Rear mounting block

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To finish, make a loop on the last wrap, double over the running-end and pass partially through then release so as it clamps down on the loop.

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Lashing the front i'ato to ama

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Before rigging i'ato to the va'a 'permanently' the va'a is floated. Here, the ama is lolling over to the left and needs to be re-aligned. The solution is to take it apart and place very fine timber wedges on the inside of the i'ato ama mounting blocks front and rear.

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Toe-in The practice of moving the front of the ama closer to the hull than at the rear, thereby compensating for the tendency of the hull to be pulled left when wanting to paddle in a straight line, is an ancient, tried and proven method.

As a result of this problem, in Micronesia and spread as far away to areas such as the Ellis Islands, hulls were sometimes made asymmetrical and the ama toed-in to ensure a straight run of the hull. This practice was used on the windward side of some islands, where cross-winds were a daily burden and where compensatory strokes were fatiguing and impractical.

Commonly, another practice, was to simply position the ama extended forward of centre of the hull, so as the ama extended beyond the bow of the canoe (Raiatea and other areas of the Society Islands).

This had a compensatory affect and even today V1 ama are set to be level or forward of the paddler, but with its greater portion ahead of the canoe's centre of buoyancy and gravity rather than behind it.

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"In canoes used on the windward side of an island (Tokelau Islands), the bottom [of the hull] for some distance at each end - from one fifth to one fourth the total length - is sharply but eccetrincally keeled: the forward keel is the longer and lies to the port or outrigger side of the median line and the after keel is upon the starboard side. When built for fishing on the quiet leeward side, the hull is without these keels. Other points of asymmetry consist in the outrigger side of the hulls having a slightly greater curvature than the other, and in the setting of the forward end of the float a little nearer to the hull than the after end.

In this asymmetry, designed mainly to compensate for the tendency of the outrigger float to steer the canoe to port while moving in a straight line, is evident, the influence of Micronesian design, where, indeed, the asymmetry of the hull form is so extreme that the side away from the outrigger is sometimes almost straight, vertically as well as longitudinally, the other being full bellied." p290 Haddon & Hornell (Ellice Islands) Canoes of Oceania.

Alternate Realities Research brings one face to face with a variety of juxtapositions which often lead to more questions manifesting, some of which tend to fly in the face of popular belief or at least the belief of the herd mentality, to which we can all fall victim. So the question could be asked, why aren't modern day race va'a designed asymmetrical in view of historical evidence suggesting the practice was already being implemented to solve a universal problem of going left and left again?

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Furthermore if 'toe-in' was good enough way back when, why is it not so now?

Not withstanding improvements in ama designs, hull design remains symmetrical and going left a universal problem. So, I got to thinking, why not play deaf to mutterings of running the ama straight, let alone the adherence to being advised to use a measurement of 100cm or thereabouts. Why not go back a few hundred years and follow ancient protocol.

The Tahitian va'a which I used during the production of this book is a 'genuine' V1 from Tahiti, now owned by Colin Philp and sourced from an old friend, Charlie Maitere, the founder of Te Aito and Super Aito - the ama however, came from New Zealand some years back now, but may have its origins in Tahiti - I know this fact because I brought the original version of this ama to Fiji as far back as 1998.

Looking at the images in Canoes of Oceania, what strikes me is that the ama is often toed-in to correspond with the angle of curvature from the bow toward the cockpit area which seems a more logical method of dictating how much toein to add than a random number.

The ama has been toed-in to correspond with near enough to the curvature of the hull toward the bow, rather than using an arbitrary number.

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www.kanuculture.com Detaching the ama from i'ato at the front, I simply eyeballed the angle of the ama from the front so as to correspond to the rake of the bow and re-rigged.

This resulted in a 3cm toe-in.

From the front the ama appears to be running straight and level with bow section. From the rear however, toe-in is very evident. Overall the result was very satisfactory given the older style ama I was using, a larger volume ama may not have required so much toe-in.

The point of this is to share with you the idea that while there are guidelines in place, you're free to find what works for you. Note that at IVF World Sprints you cannot micro-rig your va'a to suit, there just isn't the time and you find all va'a will be pre-rigged (and have alloy i'ato and push fit systems).

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Measure from the middle of the stanchion to the middle of the ama where it connects with i'ato.

Learners, 100cm at the front, 102 at the back (or set equal if no toe-in required). Experienced paddlers, 95cm to 93cm experiment to suit ability and conditions.

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V1 - Aand Paddler's Guide Guide OC1 V1 - A Paddler's

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V1 ama for the most part, should be set 'level and flat' - this ensures the centre of buoyancy of the ama and va'a are in near alignment and also with that of the paddler's centre of gravity. The above set up has too much pressure on the rear of the ama, so as the water's release is not clean. In addition it will cause the va'a to want to round up to the left.

The solution, wedge the outside front i'ato and in addition, if the ama rolls inward when the adjustment is made, add a wedge to the inside of the i'ato to ama at the ta'amura'a i'ato. Below the adjustment has been made and the ama is now set flat.

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Float the va'a and place a spirit-level over the cockpit area. In this instance the va'a has been set up to lean very marginally to the left without load.

Sitting in the va'a, it will naturally loll over to the right and it should settle near level. Returning to the shore, you can re-rig the ta'amura'a, add or take out wedges / shims.

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Spare Paddle

Spare rubber can be attached to the rear i'ato in this fashion and spare paddle then secured - blade over hull.

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Make sure the wraps are tight, so as the paddle stays as flush as possible.

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V1 - A Paddler's Guide Finish by looping the running-end under the final wrap. This needs to be just behind you, so as by pulling the running-end it should free the paddle easily.

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6 Paddles

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From the outset, if it's not already obvious, double-bend paddles are the preferred choice of paddle for either V6, V3 or V1 for the Tahitian paddler. The question you may be asking is 'Why?' the answer to which has very much more to do with off-handed remarks, that, '. . . it's just a question of personal choice and ergonomics' a summation which signifies a lack of understanding as to the real reasons which go way beyond merely executing a forward stroke.

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Added double-bend leverage when paddle steering One of the primary reasons for the Tahitian preference for using the double-bend paddle, is one of leverage gains in relation to implementing steering strokes adjacent and behind the body line. While the steering of OC6 and V6 lends itself to a single bend paddle of around 5 to 7 degree angle (and even 0 degrees in the case of canoe surfing and sailing) the primary difference here is that in being a solo paddler, once you cease paddling the hull begins to loose

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speed rapidly, except when surfing - therefore steering strokes are nearly always a mere extension of the forward stroke at strokes end. The more momentum you have, the more affective your steering strokes will tend to be.

Using single bend It's perfectly fine to use a single-bend paddle for V1 paddling, but there are some downsides - you will lack some of the leverage gains inherent in the double-bend paddle, more especially when combining the forward stroke with a steering stroke during the latter part when delivering torque to the blade - in addition, the single-bend does not permit such a 'smooth' stroke in the way that the double-bend permits the upper hand to be angled further back during the set up and entry, negating the need to rotate and reach so dramatically.

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When using the single-bend paddle, it's important the paddler does not fall into the trap of over-reaching or driving downward and transversely with too much vigour, as the V1 is a finely balanced craft which does not respond well to large shifts in body movement (though this can be used for added steering control if applied appropriately).

Double-bend paddle - go shorter in length Because a double-bend paddle angles the upper grip back toward your top offside shoulder and therefore your rear shoulder in the paddling process and that you need to switch sides frequently and carry out a variety of steering strokes, the total paddle length from tip to grip can be shorter, than when using a single-bend paddle. a

b

The greater the angle of upper 'crank' the further back it moves the grip (a) toward your off-side shoulder, which gains greater reach and blade angle for 'no-effort' as against that of a single-bend which places the upper hand further forward (b).

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The shorter the overall length of the paddle, the more manageable it will be and the higher the stroke rate you will be able to achieve as the lever arm is shortened. By example if you come from using a 51" paddle in an OC6 or V6 and paddle an OC1 with a 50" to account for the drop in seat height. Moving to a V1 could loose you another inch to 49" if using a double-bend.

The forward stroke In relation to delivering the forward stroke, the decision to use either a single or double-bend paddle, may for many paddlers, be a decision based loosely on ergonomics and how comfortable the paddle ‘feels’. However, we need to take this ‘feeling’ one step further. Through constant use of one type of paddle over another (single-bend or double-bend) techniques have been unintentionally developed. Switching from a single to double-bend or vice-versa, is not just a matter of a different paddle, but application of a differing technique.

When adopting one particular 'style' of paddling (personal idiosyncratic traits) it is necessary to consider the entire package and look at your paddling technique (the essentials) in balance with your style holistically; paddle, paddler, paddling technique and va'a must all be taken into account to ensure the absolute best performance. In this case, the V1 has very special requirements with regards to its control.

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Cultural standpoints From a cultural standpoint, there are preferences Pacific-wide for one style of paddle over the other when it comes to V6 and OC6 choice of paddle, but for V1 paddling, the double-bend is certainly in the majority - this is perhaps out of a wish to replicate Tahitian paddlers, without necessarily knowing why.

French Polynesia almost exclusively uses double-bends, as do many of the smaller island regions of Oceania, especially those influenced by French Polynesia, while paddlers in the Hawaiian Islands, California, Australia and Mainland USA, have a preference for single-bend paddles in team canoes. I have always been intrigued by the technical differences you can see while observing top level Hawaiian, Australian, Californian, New Zealand or Tahitian paddlers. But you cannot successfully come to any firm conclusions about their ‘technique’ without considering the paddle type they are using, as this dictates many aspects of the stroke itself.

Full carbon single-bend paddles for V1 are not a good marriage as there's the chance you will crack the shaft when prying and the lack of flex and 'softness' of material will lead to chipping and impact issues. Hybrid, carbon blade,timber shaft melds the perfect balance and use of materials for the V1 paddle.

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The paddle maker Naturally, paddle makers strive to keep up with supply and demand and to some degree, there is a cross-flow of influence between paddler and paddle maker. But for the most part, paddlers (should) dictate to the makers what it is that they like in a paddle.

Some paddle makers claim no ‘real’ difference between the double and single-bend in their usage and that they have little effect on dictating paddling technique, beyond the advantages of improved angle of the wrist relative to the blade angle and in moving the grip further back towards the top shoulder. This is simply not the case.

Single / double-bend paddles require differing techniques Any coach or individual seriously interested in different paddling techniques displayed by top level paddlers must take into consideration the paddles being used. If they don’t, then they are only getting half of the equation. Without question, excellence in paddling comes down to a mix of dynamics and not just one simple factor.

The initial design alteration away from a straight shaft paddle to a single-bend was to eliminate fatigue in the wrists and arms and to improve the ergonomics of the paddle. There are unintentional benefits including increased potential for extra reach, keeping the blade vertical for longer during the power phase of the stroke, and preventing excessive drag at the end of the stroke.

With the introduction of the double-bend shaft, to further improve comfort, more unintentional benefits were inherent in the design. Through many hours of observation and discussion, there is no question that top level crews apply a different technique when using either single or double-bend paddles. Less knowledgeable paddlers, or coaches often don’t realise such a notion exists and a mix of single and double paddles will prevail for example in team canoes.

The fulcrum factor The bend that exists in the double-bend shaft, three quarters the way up or so, is often referred to as a ‘crank’ with good reason, because in real terms that’s exactly what it can be for the paddler.

Provided it is well designed, the crank or fulcrum point, can act as an additional lever in providing drive and power to the blade. What started out as a means of producing a more ergonomically pleasing paddle, has now been mastered so as its inherent design features can be used to maximum effect. #1 135 | V1 Paddles

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Angular or curved?

During the mid 90s when interest in double-bend paddles began to spread to Australia and mainland USA within outrigger canoeing circles on account of travel by paddlers to Tahiti, who witnessed their overwhelming use, some manufacturers jumped on the chance to manufacture.

Tahitian double-bend paddles at this time were definitively angular, cut and scarfed back so as to create a tightly contained fulcrum area. This was then modified into a curved form, not by cut and scarfing (a process of taking an angular cut then reversing and glueing back the upper shaft) but by laminating thin strips into a jig which forms the curve.

The trend has now reverted back to Tahiti amongst some paddle makers, but the fact remains the 'positive' fulcrum point inherent in the angular equivalent, remains a more potent device than the curved which may offer a smoother

With the upper arm 'cocked' backward, elbow bent and lower arm also marginally bent, the net result is a longer potential reach and greater upward blade angle (lift) as against advocating straight arms. As you straighten and move your top arm forward at the set up, reach is diminished not increased. The double-bend improves this relationship.

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application of leverage, but a less 'balanced' paddling device which encourages a continual shifting of forces.

Exit and recovery variances There was a time when one of the key identifying factors of the Tahitian stroke was their style of exiting and recovery. It differed from the Hawaiian style by the blade slicing away from the va'a, the top arm coming down across the gunnel, sweeping the feathered blade forward in a low arch.

This has modified with the use of the double-bend paddle in recent years as the recovery incorporates less feathering and a squarer recovery motion. Oddly, the Hawaiian stroke now incorporates greater feathering and a lower arched recovery. There is a suggestion that this was once traditional practice, which had over time moved to a more direct lift and squarer motion back to the entry.

Double-bend shaft flex One very important and often overlooked fact is that most Tahitian paddles are made with quite a bit of natural ‘spring’ or ‘flex’ due to the nature of the timbers used. Nevertheless, these paddles work very well. The ‘whippy’ feeling they provide assists with quick recovery rates and provides the paddler with a very pleasant, encouraging ‘feel’ during the power phase which enhances rhythm.

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Traditionally, Tahitian paddles differed from their Hawaiian counterparts (above) famously for their curvaceous, tear-drop shaped blade face, (below) which being smaller in blade area, permitted faster stroke rates and ease of use. In 1978, a Californian team introduced to outrigger canoe racing, lightweight, short, small bladed, single bend paddles with ‘T’ grips, borrowed from Olympic class canoes. Attempts were made to ban this type of paddle. They were abandoned when it was discovered that the Bishop Museum in Honolulu had drawings and artefacts which included T-Grip paddles. First designed in 1948, the single bend was made popular by Eugene Jenson in 1971. The double bend did not appear for some time after in the 1980s - the design idea is sometimes attributed to Gillespie paddles. The Tahitian's soon took to the idea of the double-bend paddle and have in time perfected its use.

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The Essentials Naturally, you're going to want to kit yourself out with a decent paddle and I say 'decent' in the literal sense, as I have always maintained the view, that a well designed, well balanced, light weight paddle is in no way a luxury or something to aspire to, it is in short an absolute necessity if you're to maximise your enjoyment and time on the water and therefore make the most of your V1.

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True to the variance of origin, nature, philosophical principles, cultural variance and geographical spread of OC1 and V1 users, it's no surprise perhaps that the nature of the paddles used between the two craft are often as different as the craft themselves. OC1 paddlers for the most part have a preference for carbon or hybrid (wood-carbon) single bend paddles, while V1 paddlers often prefer, double-bend timber paddles or hybrids. The difference is significant and reflects a variety of complex reasons, both socioeconomic and technical.

So far as which paddle you decide to invest in, buying your way up over a period of time to the paddle you should have purchased in the first instance, is a very much more costly process. Buy in at the top and you will not regret it.

Fortunately on account of the nature of OC1 and V1 sports, paddlers for the most part, embrace a somewhat revered view of paddles and understand the value of a good stick to go with their much loved canoe or va'a.

More than just a handy implement for propulsion, the paddle has taken on powerful symbolism throughout many canoe-cultures. Its form has been revered in sculpture, jewellery and drawings. Even with the march of progress, whether all wood, carbon or a mix of materials (hybrid) a well crafted paddle is the pinnacle of art, form and function. Its simple form evokes in the paddler an empathy for what it represents; a way of propelling yourself over the water, symbolising freedom from constraint, recreation, a good time and ultimately what you would rather be doing.

Without exception, paddles used today for outrigger canoe paddling are only vaguely ‘traditional’ by any standard. In many regards, many of their contemporary design elements are due to the advancement of Native American open canoe (river) paddle designs nurtured by Euro-American and European racers and shapers.

In reality, most commercially made racing paddles are grossly undervalued when you factor in the labour and skill involved in their creation and there are few in ‘the business’ who would disagree with this.

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Paddle anatomy The edges constitute the extremities of the blade. Grip circumference is the measurement taken around the throat - important that this is suited to your hand and finger dimensions. Too narrow and you will have to squeeze hard to gain control which can stress your forearms, too wide and you will struggle to gain any control. The power-face of the blade is the surface which grips and is pulled against the water, in contrast to the back of the blade. The shaft has two sides. The back is the ‘compression’ side and the front is the ‘flex’ side.

Some makers add a ‘compression-strip’ of a specific timber such as Ash to absorb the continual ‘crushing’ of the timber fibres. This is the side which often gets stress fractures and ultimately fails. Stress fractures often appear as small dark creases or fissures on the surface of the timber on the compression side.

Grips take on a variety of shapes in an effort to offer varying degrees of comfort and firmness of control and include, Palm / Pear Grip, Hammerhead or J-Grip, T– Grip.

Blade design performance requirements Blades are assessed on their four main areas of performance which are entry, grip, exit and air transfer. This directly translates into the various phases of #1 the paddle stroke.

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Palm Grip, Hammerhead and T-Grip

Entry As the blade enters the water, it should do so in a way that minimises energy waste; splash and excessive bubbles of air around the blade. Clean entry is vital.

Air tends to be dragged down with the blade as it is pushed into the water, especially along the back-face of the paddle. Excessive air drawn down the blade greatly reduces the paddle's efficiency, leading to cavitation and reduces its grip on the water. While the paddler is largely responsible for ‘clean placement’, the blade design can either hinder or assist in this respect.

Curved blade tips In the past, when blade faces where larger and tips thicker, flat (straight) tipped blades would sometimes create a noticeable ‘plopping’ sound. This was both annoying and inefficient as it was a sure sign that air was being drawn down the back of the paddle on entry. A 1-2" curved lip was added to the blade tip by some manufacturers, angled back toward the blade face marginally so that on entry, the lip entered vertically rather than 45º. This may have resolved some entry issues but can cause problems at the exit, where water can be ‘trapped’ and ‘scooped’ by the lip, creating drag.

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Canada. However, they are still prevalent in Tahiti where blade areas remain somewhat larger with longer blade lengths and often a more direct downward entry of the blade.

Grip The blade must grip the water so an effective pull can be generated, leading to the analogy of the blade acting as an anchor in being stationary as the hull is pulled up to its level over the water. Importantly, 'stationary' is not a relative term. Regardless of blade area, so long as the blade is stationary during the pull (power) phase, blade area only need be of sufficient size to achieve this important 'moment'.

Paddlers will tend to own perhaps only 1 paddle, but in truth having a variety can certain pay-off. You could use a larger blade face for short sprint races and a smaller one for downwind paddling - the bottom line however is that in all cases, so long as the blade remains stationary during the pull / power phase, then it's done its job - anything surplus to this size is unwanted drag especially at the exit, while a blade that 'slips' under load, may be lacking in area to 'hold' your mass + canoe + strength of pull.

Additionally, regardless of blade area, if insufficient pressure (power) is given to the blade, it will slip backwards on account of 'soft' water spilling from its edges. Blade area therefore, needs to be proportionate to the paddler's strength, body mass, paddling style (fast or slow stroke rating) and of enough area to offset these loads by way of resistance.#1 143 | V1 Paddles

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Blade areas have greatly reduced since the mid 90s, moving away from the ‘bigger must be better’ theory. Smaller blade areas have led to slightly more ‘aggressive’ paddling techniques and styles, with higher stroke rates to accommodate.

Some paddlers, as they age, move back to a wider, larger blade area, preferring a slower stroke rate. While more blade area equates to more grip, there is also more drag to contend with at the exit phase of the stroke and often more weight in the paddle.

Flutter In the late 90s, there was a move to greatly reduce the surface area of blade designs. This is partly as a result of rethinking the blade's function; that its surface area only has to be large enough to anchor itself. Surface area beyond this optimum size, adds extra weight and ineffectual surface area, which translates into unnecessary resistance and drag, particularly during the exit phase of the stroke.

'Flutter' is a characteristic associated with the blades tendency to ‘oscillate' side to side as you make the pull. It can be associated with the blade area (resistance) being excessive for the paddler relative to their strength, technique or body mass. It can also be associated with poor blade design, which either encourages water run-off or may morph under load, causing water to leave the blade edges under varying degrees of pressure (and positions) as the pull is made.

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Essentially flutter results as water under pressure, leaves the blade face at random points along its edges, causing shifts in the forces (resistance) acting against the blade during the power phase.

The inclusion of a spline or raised dihedral from the neck to a quarter or two thirds down the centre of the power face of the blade, can provide some balance and reduce this tendency, but relates more towards taming this behaviour at the end of the stroke as the power band diminishes and the water begins to naturally leave the blade face.

Paddles with small blade areas will often tend to suffer less from flutter, but demand a more aggressive, explosive catch and power phase in order to pressurise the water against the blade, to prevent this behaviour, along with blade slippage.

On the left, a flat faced Kialoa blade. On the right a ZRE Power Surge, with dihedral running from the neck progressively diminishing towards the tip. These dihedrals or Exit splines, add some degree of When you remove the blade from the water, you balance to the blade, permitting water to leave want to minimise energy expenditure (loss) of the blade surface in near both paddler and blade. This is achieved by equal proportions toward exiting the blade from the water at the earliest opportunity after the power-phase of the stroke, the end of the stroke as the even if some of the propulsive power is lost from power diminishes. With the evolution of smaller the end of the stroke. blade areas, splines have slowly been omitted or diminished, as faster, more aggressive paddling techniques have evolved, requiring paddlers to increase pressure of the water against the blade face at the catch phase.

Smaller, flat faced blades demand an aggressive catch and do not always suit the entry level paddler as flutter will occur if not used in this manner. #1

With diminishing blade areas over recent times, the spline has disappeared or diminished from paddle design but a remnant of it is still often added in the very top quarter of the blade to improve stability.

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If you pull the blade too far past your body, it slows your potential stroke rate and uses unnecessary energy, as the critical and most powerful part of your stroke has already been made.

This being said, whereas in team OC paddling this is a strict practice, where the loads are significantly greater, the lighter weight and reduced drag as experienced when paddling an OC1 or V1, permits some push (at times) to be used to good effect, so as 'push' becomes 'shove' and this is certainly true when paddling in rough waters.

The larger the surface area of the paddle, the greater the drag or resistance will be during the exit part of the stroke. The solution for this is to reduce the surface area of the blade, particularly its length. A short blade length; 18" (45.72cms) measured from the tip to the neck of the shaft, will mean that the blade is not buried so deep in the water and can be exited and re-entered with smaller movements and with less energy expenditure.

Design and suitability Outrigger paddling is an endurance sport and it is essential that you can manage your paddle efficiently for long periods of time, in a way that is comfortable and effective, avoiding undue fatigue and a reduction in #1 performance.

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When selecting a paddle, you need to take into account your individual requirements which are determined by your physical attributes, your paddling style and the type of va'a you are paddling. A poor paddle design or even a good one that is not suited to your style of paddling will mean that you will fail to reach your full potential.

Over the years, paddle designs have changed in an effort to increase comfort and reduce fatigue while improving over all efficiency. How much of this is simply a smart commercial move in order to offer something different or a genuine attempt to improve comfort and efficiency while reducing fatigue, is uncertain. The design features undoubtedly have merits, some paddlers like them, others do not, ultimately it’s a matter of personal preference. It is worthwhile to try as many different designs as possible, then make an assessment of what works best for you.

Concaves The inclusion of concaves or scoops within the blade face may assist in ‘holding’ water at the power phase of the stroke. However, there is a distinct disadvantage at the end of the stroke, as the water fails to release from the blade face. The blade must be released very early at the hip and ‘lifted’ to allow the water to ‘spill’ from the blade. Excessive drag at the exit will lead to early fatigue, slower stroke rates and often a ‘pull down’ effect acting on the va'a.

Blade shoulders While some blades have very pronounced shoulders, which tuck in and away from the edges up towards the neck of the blade (where it joins the shaft) many lack these curved shoulders. Shoulder-less Tahitian tear-drop shaped paddles, have dominated the outrigger canoeing market for many years since the Tahitians introduced them to outrigger canoeing. Paradoxically, pronounced shoulders were a manifestation of high end open canoe racing in the USA. Pronounced shoulders allow you to drive the paddle closer to the edge of the hull and even under it to some degree, so as some surface tension can be broken between hull and water. Often associated with low aspect paddles, they tend to offer improved levels of balance permitting the greater part of the blade area to be concentrated in a more uniformed area or block rather than a rapid diminishment toward the neck of the upper portion of the blade.

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How a paddle should feel

Tear-drop blade straight shoulders.

Even before venturing onto the water, it's possible to determine at least some basic tactile virtues inherent in any paddle you choose to pick up. Above all, it must feel comfortable in the hands, at the grip (handle) and where the lower hand wraps around the shaft (throat). Avoid paddles which are excessively blade heavy so as the paddle should balance in your hand at around one-third the way up the shaft. Even before price is a consideration (don't ask) just go through a variety in your hands and essentially pick out the ones which feel best to you and then enquire about the price. This simple test will provide fuel for thought versus cost.

High aspect blade A high aspect blade by ratio, is relatively long in relation to its width (long and narrow) and may lack shoulders which merely curve away to meet the neck. As a result of their shape, they tend to have a relatively high centre of effort. This type of blade is common to double-bend paddles - where blade length tends to be longer than that offered on single-bend paddles.

High aspect blade marginal shoulders.

In terms of 'feel' the high aspect paddle with its higher centre of effort, is often preferred by taller paddlers in rough water, being that you don't always need to bury it fully to reap the benefits of grip. In terms of feel, the high aspect paddle is less forgiving with regards to poor paddling technique.

It can very easily trip over itself, the top portion of the blade travelling over the tip, which acts as the fulcrum point. Being that there is considerably less surface area in the upper portion of the blade, there is less resistance (counter-resisting water pressure) and so the upper portion of the blade, wants to move faster (easier) through the water than the lower portion of the blade, which tends to remain anchored.

Low aspect with pronounced shoulders.

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Low aspect blade A low aspect paddle tends to be rounder or more squat in shape (more#1 equilateral) and has its maximum width

www.kanuculture.com Whereas for years, Tahitian paddles were associated with being somewhat 'rustic' in finish and even 'low-tech' the fact of the matter is, Tahitians have always given high regard to their 'rame' - with the progress of time the likes of Viper Va'a based on the island of Raiatea, now produce some of the most beautiful and evocative paddles for va'a paddling and racing, as both hybrid (fusion) and all carbon, a testimony of Tahitian's love for form, function, beauty and elegance.

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somewhat higher up towards the mid section of the blade's height. These blades tend to have more pronounced, curved shoulders leading up to the neck of the shaft and require careful, deeper placement, though the low aspect paddle can be a little more forgiving than the high aspect paddle, being that the bulk of the blades area, is often spread over a greater area of its overall length.

Blade balance It's not just the area of mass of the blade which is significant, it's also what's missing. Note where the widest point of the blade is on any blade face. The larger the 'sweet-spot' in which the blade can find bite and balance and remain vertical for longer, the more balanced it will tend to be.

Each blade shape, provides differing levels of feel and performance. Blades which provide a narrow 'band width' of balance (centre of effort) low down, which diminishes rapidly towards the neck of the blade are prone to 'falling over' at the vertical 'moment' when some delay is required in order to lengthen the drive time of the blade.

Rounded shafts vs oval The shape of the shaft makes a big difference in terms of comfort, control and how the paddle feels in the hand. Many paddle shafts are near perfectly cylindrical (round) and for the most part this is probably down to ease of manufacturer when in actuality, an oval shape tends to be more ergonomic and better suited to the shape of the closed hand. The oval shaft is generally stronger in engineering terms. Importantly, it prevents the shaft rolling off-axis and permits the shaft to rest between finger and palm without unnecessary pressure having to be applied. The lower three fingers should not have to

Grip circumference and the shape of the shaft can make a big difference to comfort and control, especially if your hands are wet. The oval shaft can sit in the nape of your fingers without rolling off-axis. Ultimately it comes down to personal preference, but it is yet another factor to consider regarding the paddle's overall design merits.

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squeeze hard, but should be partially relaxed, the pull should provide enough pressure to prevent the hand slipping.

Sizing the length of your paddle The first lesson you will learn about a double-bend paddle is that it will be shorter in total length from tip to grip for a number of reasons. Firstly the upper crank brings the top arm further back which necessitates a shorter overall length in making the paddle more pleasing and efficient to use.

Secondly, a shorter overall paddle length permits higher stroke rates, faster, easier side switching of the paddle and reduced chance of impact against the lip of the cockpit. Thirdly it will permit easier control and implementation of steering strokes. V6 and OC6 steerers know the benefit of using shorter paddles for all of the above reasons.

When choosing a paddle, the overall length from tip to grip, is a very important issue you need to consider. Unfortunately, it is far from being a perfect science, and we have a range of theories which are worthy of note, more to exemplify why they are not suitable methods of selection rather than why they are. The problem with most theories is that they fail to account for the height of the seat relative to the level of water, while others fail to take into account the length of your arms.

The following are examples of methods that claim to determine the correct paddle length for any individual. 1 - 4 are examples of what to avoid. Number 5 offers the best solution.

1. When standing, the paddle should reach your chin. This measures your leg and trunk length but fails to take into account the length of your arms, the canoe's depth or the seat height.

2. A paddle's shaft should be 6" to 8" (15.24cm to 20.32cm) longer than your arm from armpit to the tips of your extended fingers. This still fails to take into account the characteristics of the craft.

3. When standing, the grip of the paddle should fit snugly up into your armpit with the blade level on the ground. This fails to take into account the length of your arm and again the characteristics of the craft.

4. The paddle shaft should be as long as the distance from the top of your shoulder to the ground when you are sitting on the ground, plus the height of the crafts seat from the floor. This fails to take into account your arm length.

Clearly all these theories end up with a variety of so called ‘ideal’ lengths which are confusing. Here is the best method, it is simple and worth the effort.

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5. When the blade is fully immersed at the mid-point - (vertical phase, hand-over-hand) of the power phase of the stroke, your grip - (top hand) should be level with your eyes or the tip of your nose.

This may sound simplistic – but it does ultimately take into account all factors, as well as the paddler’s physical and biomechanical make up. Following on from this, we could conclude that the most accurate method of sizing a paddle removes leg length from the equation. Remember, this is based on exercising good technique.

Kialoa in the USA use the following recommendations; with the advice for selection of a paddle for OC1 or V1 . . . 'go to the middle or low end of the range'.

Your Height Length 5'0"-5'2"

46"-47"

5'3"-5'5"

47"-49"

5'6"-5'8"

49"-51"

5'9"-5'11"

51"-52"

6'0"-6’2"

52"-53"

6'3"-6'5"

54"-56"

1. If you have broader than average shoulders, go to the high end of the range.

2. If you have long torso relative to your height, go to the high end of the range.

Cautionary Note: An overly long paddle can and probably will over time, cause rotator cuff - shoulder, damage because you are applying power to the stroke with your upper arm raised well above the level of your shoulder. Better to use a paddle marginally too short than too long.

Grip circumference The circumference of the shaft at the throat is important for both comfort and control of the blade. How much attention has been given to this in the manufacture of outrigger paddles is a little hazy. It is fair to say though that most men's grips are larger in diameter than women's. However, paddles generally come standard, with no allowance for women. This could be a distinct disadvantage if the diameter of the grip is too large.

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blade. This can lead to elbow and wrist injuries as well as cramps in your forearms. The shape of the shaft makes a big difference in comfort and control.

Some are almost perfectly round while others are more oval in shape. Personal preference plays a large part in selection (see page 152).

The two most common shaft used for OC1 paddling are the singlebend and for the V1 the double-bend, though some paddlers reverse this trend. Importantly, straight shaft paddles are not as efficient or comfortable to use and tend to be regarded as less high performance.

Kialoa 'W hacky'

Shaft types

A ‘Quad’ bend paddle (Sawyers, 'Ergo Quad') attempts to exploit mechanical and ergonomical advantages of bends to new heights (it never caught on with va'a paddlers) and Kialoa's 'Whacky' paddle, attempts to improve the angle of the lower wrist in particular in being able to improve the paddles 'catch'.

The merits of these differing shaft angles may come down to personal preference, but each requires a differing approach to technique way beyond simple statements that it's entirely about comfort. Move from a straight shaft to a double and you will need to reconsider how you use it.

Bent shaft / cranked shaft, crooked paddle, single bend

Sawyer 'Ergo Quad'

Beyond specific blade shapes, there are also differences in the profiles of paddle shafts. The origin of the bent shaft paddle does not lie in Oceania. It was originally developed in 1948 for the sport of canoe racing, made popular by Eugene Jensen in 1971 and introduced into va'a racing at the 1978 Moloka'i to O'ahu race by a mainland American team. They went on to win and in doing so, created great interest in their paddles. These paddles also included a T-Grip, which at the time, was not in popular use in va'a paddling. Since this paddle

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design was introduced to the sport, it has become a catalyst for the development of va'a paddles.

In 1994, we saw some radical adaptations of the outrigger paddle, specifically a reduction in blade width and height, but the blade still angled away from the shaft, averaging 10–13º.

The benefits of the bent shaft paddle; 1. Blade maintains less angle in the water during the latter part of the stroke.

2. Thrust is maintained along the side of the va'a over a greater distance.

3. The tendency to lift water during the exit phase of the stroke is reduced.

4. The paddle reaches farther forward during the catch phase of the stroke.

5. A natural tendency to ‘feather’ (turn outwards) when it leaves the water.

These points are based on the assumption of the use of sound technique.

Double-bend shaft paddles This is a variation of the bent shaft paddle in an attempt to go one better. Its design concept aims at reducing fatigue and wrist strain and makes good sense when you consider its design elements. Unlike the single-bend paddle shaft where the bend originates at the neck of the paddle, the double-bend shaft has a bend in both the upper and lower shaft.

The benefits of the double-bend shaft paddle; 1. The upper angle brings the grip back towards the driving hand, so that the paddler's shoulder and arm extension is lessened, reducing fatigue.

2. The lower shaft angles towards the paddler so that the wrist is naturally aligned with the shaft at an angle reducing wrist strain and fatigue.

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construction or genuine thought regarding performance.

The top paddle, is essentially a series of ‘curves’ and more often than not laminated in a ‘jig’; timbers bent and glued to conform to the jig’s shape. Conversely, the double bend below it is far more angular and often made as a straight shaft, then the last third or so of the shaft is ‘scarfed’ - cut diagonally, reversed and laminated back on to be angled away. This is common to Tahitian paddles.

The soft ‘S’ shaped double bend, generally provides less mechanical advantage as the fulcrum is less acute than with the more angular shaft. Tahitian paddlers use this mechanical advantage by pushing forward with the top arm when the blade is vertical, during the power phase, and their concern is far from one of ergonomics, which seems to be the primary selling point for many manufacturers.

A mixture of single and double-bend paddles, note added ‘kink’ in the top third of the upper shaft. This brings the grip closer to the paddler so the top arm is further back during the set up and entry phase of the stroke. While initial designs were thought to be purely ergonomic, the Tahitian paddlers in particular have adjusted their paddling technique in order to use the mechanical advantage inherent in the additional upper bend in the shaft.

Timber paddle construction Many paddles out of Tahiti may seem ‘rustic’ when compared to the paddles of Hawai'i, USA, Canada or Australia. In these locations, paddlers demand a highly polished, well-finished implement built to out-live the paddler's life expectancy. #1 157 | V1 Paddles

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Yet, in the remote islands of French Polynesia, the art of paddle making is as revered as the design and creation of the va'a itself. Limited to tropical timbers and an economy that must allow anyone be able to afford it, the paddle is considered more of a consumable than a permanent item. As such, this keeps the flow of ideas constant, though this has changed in recent years, with more expensive carbon and hybrid paddles now being made - though ownership is not widespread with timber remaining the most used.

Here, the premise is that the paddle must blend with the paddler’s technique not the other way around. They are in short, demanding of and not subservient to the paddle or paddle maker.

Laminations Traditional paddles were simply carved from solid lengths of timber.

Contemporary paddles use a well known manufacturing procedure called ‘laminating’. The laminating or layering together of woods by glueing them, adds to the uniform strength of the paddle. Another advantage is the creation of a lighter paddle by combining light and heavy timbers, rather than just being limited to one type for strength.

Weight versus strength is the eternal quest, as strong as possible, as light as possible. These requirements are in the hands of the craftsperson, whose skill lies in the careful and skilful selection of the timber and with meticulous laminating, which determines the paddle’s durability.

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Laminations - thin strips of timber which are joined and glued together, often using a mix of hard and soft timbers. This can often create a visually appealing result, especially in the creation of ornamental paddles. Laminations can be used in both the blade and the shaft, or one and not the other.

Assessing a timber paddle Very thin glue lines between laminates will indicate a stronger finish and therefore improved adhesion.

Wide gaps between laminates will indicate that the timbers have not been butted up hard against each other during curing. Adhesion between timbers is essential.

The greater the number of laminations, the stronger the paddle will be. Shaft laminates should ideally be laid vertical in relation to the blade not horizontal.

Many paddles today, only have 3 laminates in the shaft - two outer light weight timber and a central hard wood for strength.

Left: balsa blade, hardwood shaft of ash with a carbon stringer dividing the laminates. Balsa is a hardwood, but you would never guess it. Hard to work with, but lightweight, it is often laminated with carbon fibre and epoxy. Right: Tahitian paddle made from mangrove. ‘Green’ mangrove tends to be heavier, grow near the water and have higher water content.

‘Silver’ mangrove tends to be lighter and grows away from the ocean.

Sometimes laminated together, green for shaft and silver for the blade.

The characteristics are lightweight, fibrous, strong and flexible.

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Check for wood defects such as knots, resin pockets, short grain shakes and warping. All of these will cause weak-spots which will be prone to breakage.

Look for a well-made, long tapering splice on the shaft. This will ensure good shaft strength in a uniform length from the neck to the grip.

Check the quality of the epoxy / varnish and the lay-up of the glass on the blade. Check for air pockets. Pay close attention to the edging and blade tip regarding the seal and finish. Is the edging synthetic (resin) or fibreglassed hardwood and is it sufficient protection for the blade?

Hardwoods - softwoods Hardwoods include all the broad-leafed groups of tree species; eucalypts, oaks, meranti etc.

Softwoods include all the cone bearing species (conifers) pine, spruce and fir trees. Hardwoods are not necessarily hard or softwoods, soft. These general terms are biological classifications and are given to describe the general qualities of the wood and in particular its resistance to impact.

However, do not put too much faith in this, as Balsa wood, one of the softest and lightest of timbers, is classified as a hardwood.

All carbon paddles Carbon paddles began their push into paddle sports in a meaningful way during the mid 1980s.

With the evolution of the OC1 in the mid 90s coinciding with increased participation in Canada and the East Coast of America, the idea of using all carbon paddles for OC1 paddling was quickly taken up.

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cultural standpoints and issues as to whether they should be permitted to be used in OC6 racing. Though some countries relaxed the rules to permit them, hybrid composite paddles became the preferred choice for most crews (Tahiti remaining with all timber).

The benefits of all carbon paddles are simply stiffness and lightness. At the low end of the scale, a carbon paddle can weigh in at a mere 9oz. Arguments for the use of these paddles are largely a matter of personal choice over preferred ‘feel’, some measured performance improvement (but not always) and budget. For the most part, carbon paddles are more expensive than their timber counterparts.

Use of all carbon paddles are common place for OC1 paddling, not so for V1, where hybrid (wood/carbon) or all timber are generally preferred.

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One of the biggest contributions the elite carbon paddle makers of East Coast USA made to the sport of outrigger canoe racing, was in providing new ideas on blade shapes and refined designs in general, which in time were adopted by many timber paddle makers.

The notion of using carbon paddles for OC1 has been a popular consideration since the formative days of their development in the mid 1990s (supplied predominantly by East Coast manufacturers ZRE and Barton). Paradoxically, use of an all carbon paddle for V1 paddling, is limited by the fact it is used for steering and as such a timber shaft generally provides the better material for the purpose.

The weight of the canoe and load on the paddler is a very serious consideration regarding which paddle material to pick. Along with being light, carbon paddles are for the most part stiffer than any timber shafted equivalent. If the shaft of a carbon paddle has little flex, then the load from the blade is transferred further up the system, to you. Your body’s joints, first your wrist, then elbow and shoulder, can be stressed and injured. It is very important not to use a blade too big for you when using stiffer shafts.

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Flex appeal A degree of flex or spring in the shaft is preferred. Stiff shafts increase the chance of shoulder injuries. Some flex tends to provide the paddler with a more encouraging, relaxing feel to the paddle stroke and in this respect, timber shafts are far superior to synthetics. However, advances in synthetic construction, largely carbon fibre, now allows for varying amounts of flex to be built in.

It was concluded towards the end of the 1990s, that the ideal va'a paddle should have a super stiff blade and neck area to prevent ‘flex’ and morphing of the blade shape, and that the shaft should have a degree of inherent flex. Hence the creation of ‘hybrid’ paddles.

There are two critical stress areas where flex can occur on a paddle, at the neck and further up the shaft, particularly just below the point where the lower hand grips. If the neck and shaft flex as you apply pressure during your ‘pull’, it's akin to compressing a spring and this energy will remain stored in the paddle, until you release it when the pull is relaxed. Essentially you've redirected and reduced the torque in the most powerful and efficient phase of your stroke, the pull, only to release that torque in the exit phase where it's all wasted energy.

Some paddlers notice a ‘snappier’ movement of their canoe as a result of using a carbon paddle, because of the added stiffness.

A flexing blade creates an inefficient shape on the blade face which allows water to slip away and creates a fluctuation in the pressure/ vacuum ratio between the front and rear faces of the blade. This causes the blade to flutter. While a stiff paddle is best for energy transfer, a paddle whose shaft has a slight amount of flex is easier on the body.

Wood composite paddles – hybrids Advances in materials and construction techniques led to the development of ‘hybrid’ paddles, which use a mix of timber and synthetic materials. Wood composites are similar to traditional all wood paddles in that both have solid wood blades and sometimes shafts. Where the two construction methods differ is in the use of reinforcing composite skins such as fibreglass, kevlar, or carbon fibre over the blade.

The combination of the lightweight core and composite skin allows the builders to use lightweight woods, usually Balsa (or foam) as the core of the blade. The combination of a light weight core and composite skin produces paddles which are lighter, stronger and more durable than traditional wood paddles. To a

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large extent, outrigger canoe paddle manufacturers were motivated to start building wood composites because of requests from their sponsored athletes.

‘The real light, all wood paddles were for race day only and weren't very durable even with limited use. It seemed like a waste to throw away a paddle after only a few uses. So we asked the Hawaiian builders if they could come up with something light, yet durable enough for everyday use. We felt strongly that we wanted to develop something with our builders, rather than look outside the sport.’ Mike Judd -Lanikai CC

The weight game Wood composites generally weigh between 14-18oz, depending on the blade surface area, overall length, and the particulars of the manufacturer's construction method. Weight reductions of 25% are common when compared to similar size wood paddles.

‘They are light enough. They aren't as light as a full carbon, but lighter than a woodie. They are right in the middle. The extra weight can be user friendly into the wind. They have just enough weight to keep them on track. The carbons sometimes fly around.’

Jim Foti - Lanikai.

Paddlers often guess the weight of their wood composites as much lower than they actually are. Most of the weight reduction comes from the blade portion of these paddles. Typically, they are blade light, meaning the blade weighs less than the overall weight of the shaft. Traditional wood paddles tend to be blade heavy, unless they have a small blade surface. Blade light paddles have a quick, balanced feel to them. Compared to a blade heavy paddle of the exact same weight, most people will guess that the blade light paddle is lower in weight.

Durability With its composite skin and synthetic edge around the blade, wood composite paddles are generally more durable than all wood paddles. The use of epoxy resins and aerospace skin allows the paddle manufacturers to utilise high performance technology from other applications such as auto racing, aviation and space travel.

‘It's been a long road experimenting with our Ultra-Lite paddles. I spent a lot of time talking with surfboard makers, boat builders, etc., about the characteristics of composite material and epoxy’.

Les Look Makana Alii. Les estimates that it takes about 40% more time and twice the material to build one of his Ultra-Lites.

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Static load testing by Kialoa has yielded data which suggest that their Hybrid blades are up to 25% stronger under compression loads than their wood paddles. Hanging weights from the tips of their blades, a typical wood paddle failed at around 76lbs (34kg). Hybrids were able to handle weights of 108lbs (49kg), at which point the wood shafts began to fail. While it is difficult to translate this data into real world paddling, in the test environment, wood composites are proving to be stronger than traditional paddles.

Will they make you faster?

Data to support the claim that a certain paddle or characteristic of a paddle, makes a paddler faster is difficult to substantiate. Variables such as effort of the paddler, water conditions, wind direction, or duration of the event make it difficult to control and say that the paddle is the sole reason for any speed difference.

Testing by Kialoa in sections ranging from 1 to 20 minutes yielded data, which suggested that with paddles ranging in weight between 10-24oz, weight did not make a significant difference in speed. The surface area and / or design of the blade seemed to be a more significant contributor to speed changes than the weight of the paddle.

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So will a lightweight wood composite paddle make you faster? Probably not.

However, when the difference between first and second place over a long race may be decided by a mere two seconds, racers want to know their paddles are as light as those of their competitors.

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7 V1 Forward Stroke 166 | V1 Forward Stroke

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The forward stroke for V1 craft, brings emphasis on bio-mechanical 'smoothness' with the greater part of power being generated through the arms and shoulders with only marginal amounts of rotation and torque applied in the process. The exit and recovery also rely heavily upon arm and shoulder extension and movement.

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Parallel pull Paddling with a parallel pull, is essential in ensuring there is no cross-sweeping of the blade during the pull phase. This is especially true when simply wanting to travel in a straight line and where there's no adverse external conditions hindering you.

In short, power must be direct and true. On account of the raised seating configuration this is achievable in a V1, not so easy in an OC1 due to the geometry of the seating. The additional advantage of this, is that when you need to execute a power-pry or a stern push away stroke, the blade can easily be positioned behind the body line, as an extension of the forward stroke.

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When paddling an OC1 or indeed many other canoe forms including an OC6, strokes on either the right or left are within small increments 'mirrored' and therefore symmetrical. The paddling of a V1, demands an altogether asymmetrical application of strokes, so as strokes taken on the right and left are often substantially different.

If you attempt to 'depth-charge' the blade at the entry or attempt to get your body weight 'over' the stroke (counter to all that you may know of OC6 or even OC1 paddling technique) this will more than likely result in negative outcomes that affect run and direction of travel of the V1.

You need to keep in mind at all times, the fine balance at play in terms of your centre of gravity acting down on the hull, the relative position of the ama and its relation to your centre of gravity and the hull's centre of buoyancy - and understand any shift in forces or weight, forward of this alignment, will tend to cause an in-balance of forces which can result in torque from the blade, dramatically affecting the direction of travel. Hence, V1 paddlers tend to sit up straighter and paddle predominantly with arms and shoulders 169 | V1 Forward Stroke

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rather than with emphasis on powerful compression originating from the core muscles.

Set up + Entry Minimal rotation

Examining the physiology of any top level V1 paddler and this becomes self evident in their body shape (this applies to some extent to V6 paddlers as well).

Forward stroke on the ama side "Long, deep and powerful . . ."

Catch

Lowering of the leading shoulder

Paddling on the ama side, approximates a similar stroke as you would employ when paddling an OC1 provided the V1 is rigged correctly.

The natural and almost unavoidable resultant drag on the ama, will tend to turn the hull to the left, while the stroke taken, will result in a pull to the right, so as there can be a resultant 'cancelling-out' of the two forces, leading to a more or less straight course travelled (not withstanding adverse factors).

Whereas the OC1 stroke can often be somewhat

Power Phase Short push forward when shaft vertical - reliance on arms and shoulders

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'longer' in terms of some added push past the level of the hip, any such force applied when paddling a V1 will result in a turningmoment, away from the paddling side, so for the most part the stroke is executed shorter both in terms of reach out front to the point of entry and exited early, adjacent to the hip - the exception to this, is where a power pry or stern push away stroke needs be used in order to add a steering component, then the stroke will always be long at the back and end well behind the paddler.

Because of the basic geometry of the V1, pull past the level of the hip, will result in this force moving past the centre of gravity and centre of buoyancy of the va'a and ama, resulting in a turning force. This can be beneficial if you need to add in some directional change.

It's not uncommon to spend a lot of your paddling time on the ama side on account of the fact, greater power can be applied over a longer stroke distance and a straighter line can be maintained. In addition, the ama side can feel very much more secure in terms of delivering powerful active and passive steering strokes when required.

Sprint racing note It's not uncommon for sprint paddlers, to spend most of the length of a sprint course, predominantly paddling on the ama side for this very reason, switching sides only briefly for either a correction in travel or to bring relief to the arms.

The forward stroke on the non ama side "Shorter, quicker, shallower, all up-front . . . " Everything about paddling on the non ama side (right) is different from paddling on the ama side. Ama drag on the left, which pulls the hull left, combined with paddling on the right, a force which serves to 'contribute' to this bias, ensures there are greater contributing forces acting to pull you off-line to the left and little in the way of anything negating that force.

Consequently this sets you up for asymmetrical paddling. Paddling on this side, dictates the stroke is often only one half to three-quarters the length of the duration as that taken on the ama side, being that you must be concerned only with 'pull' from in-front of the body line so as a minimal turning-moment occurs in contributing to the natural pull to the left. These strokes therefore, tend to be short and fast, with very deliberate emphasis on the catch, pull, exit, in quick succession - hence, 'quick 'n light'.

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www.kanuculture.com Paddling on the non ama side, dictates that the stroke is often only one half to three-quarters the length of the duration as that taken on the ama side, being that you must be concerned only with 'pull' from in-front of the body line so as a minimal turning-moment occurs. This alters if you need to apply a power pry or stern push away stroke.

Ensuring minimal compression on the ama (easier to achieve when paddling on this side of the hull) will assist in contributing to a straighter line being maintained.

Common to both paddling sides The catch and exit phases are far more prone to bringing about negatives if not executed with precision, timing and some finesse.

An aggressive, over-load at the catch can result in an unwanted directional change. Poor blade placement and loading up too early on the blade, are possible negative contributors. There's a time to power up and power down and you must anticipate the hull's response as part of the cause and effect process.

What's wrong with this?

Leaning too far forward and top hand not far enough over on paddling side. Sit up more and try to get top hand over onto paddling side to ensure near parallel pull.

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If the exit is laboured, drawn out, or over-worked or there's significant pulldown due to extended push, this will also serve to not only affect direction but also run (glide). The exit must be 'snappy' and clean. Commonly this results in a slightly higher, upward lifting motion at the exit, rather than a swing outward from the hull and promotes an increase in stroke rates.

What to do with your legs Unlike OC1 seating and foot-well arrangement, the open cockpit of the V1 gives you options so far as leg placement. OC6 and V6 paddling demands a leading leg (usually on the paddling side) with the off-side leg, tucked under the seat.

The leading leg takes the weight of the torso twisting and reaching forward, while considerable power transfers to the rear foot which in effect pushes backward.

Due to the dynamic nature of V1 paddling, this is for the most part impractical.

Lead with either leg as is comfortable.

Paddlers adopt a leg arrangement which suits their style of paddling and the water conditions, which could mean both legs outstretched, one leading leg one rear, or even both effectively tucked under with knees bent.

Paddlers change leg arrangements when discomfort sets in or as conditions warrant it, so as to bias body weight one side or the other.

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Paddlers with very long legs often struggle as their knees can be well above the level of the cowling, while some paddlers, incorporate this as a deliberate positioning to improve control and adjustment of weighting the ama. When flying the ama, angle the left hip away from the ama side and marginally straighten the legs.

Leg drive when sprint racing Leg drive for Tahitian paddlers has always been a key area of focus, whether V6 or V1. Sprint racing demands a different approach to paddling over distance, 174 | V1 Forward Stroke

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aggressive but controlled, where leg drive is often transferred to both legs to provide maximum drive. This may be achieved by sliding back and forth on the seat where possible (not possible on moulded seats) and added body movement, where the paddler applies pressure to the stroke downward resulting in added momentum and surge to the hull, in difference to the smoother strokes taken when paddling over greater marathon distances.

In some sense this is counter-intuitive in so much as the general understanding of hydro-dynamics and bio-mechanics suggests that smoothness must be maintained to ensure that glide and hull efficiency is maintained - however this is far from the case when a study is made of the technical approach of many top Tahitian paddlers, when sprinting.

Explosiveness through power and speed and an all out assault on the water is used, the refinements of the hull, work to assist this power paddling technique.

Through it all though, the fundamentals are adhered to; clean entry, solid catch, explosive power phase, clean early exit and dynamic efficient recovery.

The catch remains the most important part of the stroke. If it's not 'anchored' solidly in the water, then no amount of pulling will result in maximum potential forward hull speed.

Straight arm paddling It's perplexing to hear some paddling luminaries advocating straight arm paddling. Robotic straight arm paddling, limits reach, hip engagement and rotation and significantly limits the use of core muscle groups.

Tahitian paddlers, not arguably, but definitively, represent the best outrigger canoe paddlers in the world, do not paddle with straight arms - period, indeed they paddle with less rotation and lean forward and use high degrees of arm movement during the stroke, which permits a number of outcomes - higher stroke rates and smoothness in the stroke and this applies to team or solo va'a.

Double-bend technique The Tahitian stroke, which relies upon use of the double-bend paddle, is a region of the Pacific which uses this style of paddle almost exclusively because it suits their preferred technique for both V1 and V6 paddling.

Historically, Tahitians have been radically modifying their paddling techniques, paddle choice and design, out of sync with Hawaiian development (without traditional restriction or limited rulings) 175 | V1 Forward Stroke

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through the 80s and 90s and continue to do so to this day. The outcome has been that Tahitians prefer the double-bend over the single and a paddle that for the most part, has more flex than the single-bend. These factors have helped define the contemporary difference between Tahitian and Hawaiian paddling techniques.

Overview - paddle smooth and upright Due to the sensitive nature of V1 in not having a rudder, the craft is finely attuned to any adverse forces. If you're from an OC1 or OC6 background, you're going to learn quickly the need to 'paddle smooth' is essential.

Over reach and rotate, drive down too hard at entry and you will find your efforts will be punished by the craft's response in wanting to alter direction. The best advice here - learn to paddle with a more upright torso than you would in an OC1 or team canoe. Pay attention to lateral pull and less on deep downward pressuring of the blade.

When using a double-bend paddle, there is more emphasis on pull generated from the lower arm and mid-way through the power phase, when the top and lower hands are hand over hand, the paddler pushes forwards with the top arm (briefly) when the blade is near vertical. A short powerful push forwards using the trapezium and tricep muscles can generate a powerful force, at a point where many paddlers are inclined to back off. This is combined with a powerful pull of the lower arm using the smaller forearm and bicep muscles. The stroke ends abruptly near the hip and the blade is carried out marginally away from the va'a then lifted in an upward manner to avoid ‘push’ and drag at the end of the stroke and carried forward to the point of entry.

Set up and entry of the blade (double-bend) Your body is marginally leaning forward, but the degree of body rotation is less than when a single-bend paddle is used. Chest is canted forward, lower shoulder dropped toward the water, upper shoulder moves further back than with single-bend because of the additional upper bend placing the grip further back toward you. Avoid over-rotation. Lower arm tends to be straight to account for reduced rotation in achieving good reach, chin and gaze remains up, lower arm moves down to bring about entry, top elbow is often angled marginally down, shoulder remains as low as possible, top arm is 2/3 flexed because of additional crank in upper shaft.

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Poised for entry, paddler remains reasonably upright - a traditional Tahitian characteristic, with only marginal lean forwards and twist, lower arm extension for maximum reach. The top arm is bent at the elbow and points downwards, with top hand above head height.

Set up (Reach)

Entry and catch At the entry phase of the stroke, the paddler enters the blade with equal downwards thrust into the water using top and lower arms (not so violent to cause the hull to dip downward - except when sprinting, where it can add impetus) until the catch phase is reached immediately after. The paddler then rotates / unwinds keeping top and lower arms locked briefly, with top and lower hands moving at equal speeds, top arm moderately driving downwards and across the body-line, lower arm marginally bent and locked for a brief moment, moving in time with the paddler's natural body rotation.

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Entry and catch Make sure you do not 'depth charge' the blade too deep or aggressively as this will serve to throw the hull off line. Think in terms of quick and light strokes, not heavy and laboured. This is very much in contrast to the way OC1 are often paddled.

The most critical part of any paddling phase - poor catch - poor pull. This can be thought of as 'Lock and Load'. The blade is fully buried and 'catch' is defined as the exact moment pressure / power is applied to the blade and water is pressured against the blade face. What happens next, determines how successful the 'catch' (grip) has been. Adequate blade area and shape, clean entry / placement, precise timing of the pull are all factors affecting the quality of the catch. The most common causes of poor catch are; pulling before the blade is fully immersed or a 'dirty' entry which pulls excessive amounts of air down with the blade on entry, thereby leading to blade slippage.

Creative Visualisation: The best explanation I can provide is this, as learnt from USA Olympian Greg Barton. "You want to sneak up on the water (metaphorically speaking) by entering the blade quietly and cleanly so as to disturb the water as little as possible. Then you 'surprise' the water, by pouring on the power, so as the water cannot 'run away' from the blade face on account of being put under pressure in an instant". While it may make no hydro-dynamic sense, the analogy here, is that pressure applied to the blade, turns the water from being 'soft' into being 'hard' so as you may lever the hull forward as a pole vaulter would when they jam the pole into the ground.

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The power phase Lift, is the very first force which should be transfered to the va'a from the moment the pull is made on account of the angled blade. At the mid-point of the stroke, when the blade is near vertical in the water, the effectiveness of the double-bend paddle comes into its own. Your lower arm is now bent to near 90° angle and the top arm remains, with elbow cocked, in a marginally downward angle. The paddler now goes through a transition, where they actively ‘pull’ with the lower arm and at the same time ‘push’ forward with the top, in one short powerful burst. In doing this, the ‘crank’ within the upper shaft is used to good effect. Ensure you engage the hip flexors as this is where the power travels to and from where you direct drive to the seat and feet.

Immediately towards the end of this ‘power’ phase of the stroke, the lower arm is very much bent and the exit from the water is quick and near hip level.

Pushing forward with the top hand in a brief explosion of power, coupled with pull on the lower arm, takes advantage of the double-bend crank (you can attempt with single bend, however the mechanical advantage is less effective). This is commenced only when top and lower hand are 'hand over hand' in the vertical axis.

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Parallel entry and pull - the seating arrangement makes it possible for parallel placement and pull of the blade - so the top arm comes across to the same side as the lower (not so achievable on an OC1). This helps promote a straighter line in limiting any 'sweep' away from the hull during the pull.

Exit phase It is not uncommon for the blade to travel past your hip as a consequence of push from the top arm. The inherent flex in the shaft, as is common to many double-bend paddles of French Polynesia, seems to negate some of the issues of pulling the hull downward. At the end of the stroke, your top arm is straight and near horizontal.

Many top Tahitian paddlers, tend to ‘lift’ the paddle out of the water followed by a twist of the wrists to ‘feather’ the paddle. Both top and lower arms then 'carry' the paddle forward in unison, with twist or rotation of the body coming reasonably late in the movement. The paddler ends the stroke, sitting almost upright as the paddle exits the water.

Recovery phase The 'swing through' of the recovery phase and how it is executed reveals two approaches - a low swinging recovery involving the lower elbow moving outward, the swing through incorporating torsional twist, employing a large amount of body movement. Alternatively, a higher lifting exit, followed by the arms carrying the paddle forward with less torso twist and less 'swing' of the body - common to the way many Tahitian paddlers move through this phase when using double-bend paddles. This essentially supports the conclusion, that less body movement is used at entry and during the pull phase as a consequence and that there is reliance upon the arms and shoulders to do much of the work in generating power.

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Exit If no correctional steering stroke is required at the end of the stroke, the blade is exited as early as possible as it approaches the hip area. This is important, as excess pull which becomes push, may have a negative affect on the directional stability of the craft. Double-bend (Tahitian) exit, employs a lift more directly upward with minimal outward movement of the elbow resulting in a 'higher' blade trajectory and less torsional 'twist' or 'lead and drop' of the leading shoulder during recovery (below).

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www.kanuculture.com This is a lower swing recovery, but torso rotation is being limited so as the arms are performing most of the task of working back to the set up.

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V1 - A Paddler's Guide Comparatively - here my lead shoulder in particular, is low and I am clearly 'winding' back through the recovery with deliberate twist through the torso.

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Single-bend technique The single-bend paddle stroke appears longer in reach out front and in push behind. Stroke rates are generally slower and there is generally more body lean and body movement as a whole. From a technical point of view, the singlebend paddle technique can be considered easier to apply than that of the double. There is if you like, less to think about and do. However, rotation and the lack of it during the set-up phase and over rotation at the exit phase of the stroke are all common problems, in combination with pushing the top arm forwards at the catch / pull phase, causing the blade to pass through vertical prematurely permitting water to spill off the blade face at a critical moment.

There are essential differences regarding the entry and power phase of a stroke with a single-bend as opposed to a double-bend paddle. There tends to be more emphasis on downwards drive - as the paddle enters, followed by rotation around the spine. However, when used in a V1 this practice needs to be avoided for reasons already given.

At the mid-point of the power phase, when the blade is vertical and at its most efficient, the paddler aims to keep the top and lower hand, hand over hand,

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arms locked briefly as the body continues to rotate. It is important to keep the blade vertical for as long a possible, before the lower arm bends and the paddle is moved through to the exit phase of the stroke.

When the blade face is nearly vertical, the paddler reduces any downward drive and continues to rotate the body around the spine, the lower arm ultimately bending radically when it reaches a point where it naturally looses its ability to remain locked.

At this point, the paddle moves through to the exit phase of the stroke and the paddler removes the paddle from the water by relaxing the wrist, lower shoulder and elbow and moves on to feather the blade (see exit phase for double-bend).

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Using a single bend, keeping leading shoulder level.

Late twisting action, with the leading arm swinging through in unison with torso - with defined leading shoulder travelling forward and rear shoulder beginning to wind backward. Added rotation must be smooth without driving the torso downward.

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8 V1 Paddle Steering

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Away from Tahiti and her islands, much of what is promoted as the technique for steering a V1, are techniques borrowed from open Canadian styled canoes and while some are certainly transferable, some fail to bring about specificity to the mechanics of steering what is after all, a uniquely different craft.

On some levels, this largely Euro-American doctrine, has very probably done more harm than good and it's perplexing as to why such questions have not been asked at the source, in this case, of Tahitian paddlers themselves. The lack of acceptance and popularity of the V1 in many outrigger canoeing participating regions of the world, would seem to fall squarely on this very single issue, the lack of detailed, accurate information regarding the craft's handling.

Steering from near centre of the hull as against being nearer the extremity as in the case of steering a team V6, OC6 means that you are near directly above the hulls centre of buoyancy, so it is a struggle to initiate a turning 'moment' - the hull resisting your efforts. Attempting to 'muscle' the va'a to the left in this image by drawing inward results in the ama resisting my efforts, which is often (typically) what is taught, when all that's needed would be a stern pry rudder stroke taken behind me or on the opposite side, a power pry (goon stroke).

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On the one hand willingness toward mastery of a V1 requires a sort of perverse challenge to overcome what can be resolved with the simple addition of a rudder, but it's the very nature of the V1 and the challenge it presents, which nurtures a want to overcome (and part of the human condition) - and the rewards of participation are plentiful.

It is essential the nature of the geometry of the V1 is taken into consideration.

The drag and opposing forces caused by what amounts to a double hulled craft, having a primary hull and secondary hull (ama) require unique steering techniques, specific to the task in dealing with these anomalies.

The most common mistake is over reliance on 'attempting' to steer the va'a from the front, largely by 'sweeping', in what amounts to a forward sweep stroke. The practice is one which does not bring about efficiency of 'return on effort for output' - it merely serves to frustrate and sap the paddler's energy. Sweeping, well forward of the body, compromises blade entry and subsequently the 'catch' phase of the stroke and tends to redistribute the paddler's weight forward. Worst of all, it attempts to steer (turn) the bow of the va'a, rather than its tail.

Rudder steered OC1 and other craft, move the tail of the craft left or right, with the bow being the near pivot point in the absence of a keel. Attempting to reverse this by use of muscle power alone, seated near centre of the craft, is ultimately an impractical and inefficient process.

Tahitian paddlers have learnt the art of steering either from near directly adjacent to their body line or directly behind, to bring about a redirection of the tail. This permits a forward stroke to be finished with either one of two differing steering strokes, one of which requires the blade face to redirect water flow under the hull bringing about a turn away from the paddling side, or one which uses the blade to push water away, resulting in turning the hull toward the paddling side.

Unique considerations Paddling a V1 without a rudder in the flat or open ocean, is uniquely challenging requiring a higher level of paddling skill, concentration and ability than that needed in paddling an OC1. Such a skill makes it a true discipline as precise and challenging as slalom or white water kayaking. An expert V1 paddler will have far greater paddle skills than that of an OC1 paddler; a point of difference between the two types of paddle craft and paddlers and an absolute requirement for safe and enjoyable participation.

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The asymmetrical nature created by the geometry of the hull with ama set out on the left side, requires a uniquely challenging set of paddling skills in order to overcome the forces of wind, current, wave action and ultimately drag which constantly act upon and work to pull the craft off-line.

The steersman in a team 6, 4 or 3 person canoe / va'a, sits in the rear seat for good reason; the ‘turning moment’ or force that they can apply is much greater from this position, so the canoe’s direction can be more readily controlled with minimal energy expenditure. For the V1 paddler, seated only marginally fore or aft of the mid section of the hull or even dead centre, their efforts to effect a ‘turning moment’ is limited and hindered by the opposing forces of the ama, which is also located more or less, mid-way along the length of the hull. Though this may be considered a negative, this is your best position from which to apply powerful forward paddling strokes and from where to hold a straight line in balance with all other factors.

Steering from the rear of many differing canoe craft, brings about a much bigger return on effort expended. Here Nicole Wilcox steers a Tahitian V6 steering a va'a of this size from the middle of its length would be ineffectual - the V1, though much smaller, still puts you in a somewhat compromised middle-ground.

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Why you should know how a rudder works If you can understand the principles of how a rudder works, then you can understand better how to use your blade to achieve a similar set of forces for a similar set of results.

The rudder works in water roughly the same way that a sail works with the air, since both water and air are fluids in terms of physics. When you want to go straight, the rudder is set so that it is cutting through the water with equal pressure on each side, i.e. it is straight.

Since steering an OC1 comes from the rear of the hull, the direction the rudder needs to turn is opposite to the direction in which you wish to go. To turn right, the rudder needs to experience a counterclockwise torque. When this happens, the right-side of the rudder is turned toward the front of the hull. Likewise, the left-side of the rudder faces the ocean behind the hull.

This creates an area of high water pressure on the right-side of the rudder and an area of low pressure on the left-side. The two pressures are unbalanced and together they exert a 'lift' or force on the rudder from right to left (high to low pressure, in the same way in which a sail has high and low pressure sides).

The force on the rudder exerts a force on the back-end of the canoe.

This will push the tail to the left, creating a torque on the hull and a shift in direction to the right. Because the canoe has no keel acting as a pivot point, there will be varying degrees of sideways slippage, though the bow in this case, acts as the primary pivot point.

Rudder steered canoes affect a paddler's paddling in three primary ways Adverse external conditions affecting direction of travel, can be near effortlessly controlled by the feet. The paddler is free to 'muscle' their way through most directions of travel. The paddler is more able to project further into the distance, whereas the V1 paddler must remain more in the 'here and now' and stay focused on every nuance.

An OC1 paddler moving to V1, must adopt an 'altered perspective' of the environment around them and how they deal with it through a blend of power, subtlety, thought and acquired skills.

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OC1 and other rudder steered craft work on the principal of redirecting the flow of water against the rudder's 'face' in the same way as water can be deflected from the blade face of your paddle to bring about a change of direction. The net consequence of turning the rudder into the flow of water so as either its left or right 'face' is pressured by water flow (high pressure) on what becomes the 'front' face turned into the flow of water and low pressure onto the 'back' face brings about a turning force and moment. In the above photo I have turned the rudder, pressuring the right pedal, the rudder opens up (turns) accordingly and importantly, the nose continues to track, while the tail turns bringing about a change of direction to the right. Steering a V1, using your blade face acting as the rudder against the flow of water is central to the most efficient way in which to steer a V1, employing the same principles.

Turning right, clean water pressures the right side face of the rudder, while 'dirty' water creates low pressure on the left face.

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Seating and paddle placement Consequently, for the paddler’s steering stroke to be effective, they must steer with the paddle aft of the centre of the hull and therefore their body-line to initiate an effective steering stroke. Attempting to steer with the blade near a central position opposite your body-line, will lead to a counter-balance of forces, until it passes behind the body line.

Because of the nature of construction of the V1, specific to the whims of the designer, seating positions are ‘rigid’ or fixed - the paddler sits within the confines of a shallow cockpit and either on a flat bench-seat or moulded seat, which is not adjustable as found on many OC1’s.

The paddler can generally move forward or backward to some degree on flat bench seats, which can make a big difference in improving the effectiveness of all steering strokes, active and passive, in weighting the bow and stern. It's even possible to use the front bulkhead to brace your leading leg. Some V1 include foot-chocks. Moulded seats offer more comfort, but limit the ability to shift your body weight.

In a V1, there is a very practical need to sit the paddler much higher than the level of the feet, a crucial element enabling the paddler to generate maximum power and control over the hull. Part of the repertoire of strokes a V1 paddler may use is not dissimilar to steering a team canoe from the rear, more especially when waveriding (surfing) and when riding waves downwind, where the paddle can be applied using a number of rudder strokes and what team canoe steerers know as a 'poke', where the shaft is pressured against the hull of the canoe. Being elevated high from the feet, assists the paddler in applying pressure and utilising the blade in this way.

OC1 moulded seats, fixed or adjustable, are not much higher than the level of the feet and while they offer the paddler greater stability, they hinder the amount of power and control that can be generated by the paddler. The move towards lowered seating in Hawai'i, had everything to do with lowering the paddler’s centre of gravity (and eliminating a cockpit into which water could fill) thereby improving stability and permitting the paddler to have greater control of the ama in rough water.

The trade-off is that the paddler cannot generate quite as much power (or at least must find it in differing ways) or variation of stroke and certainly fewer effective steering strokes. Raised seating with a V1 is therefore highly beneficial in bringing about added power and control.

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Steering issues in general terms Flat water paddling in low winds requires one level of steering skill sets, while open ocean (water) rudderless paddling, requires additional strokes to be used and some of those used in flat water, may fail to bring about any resultant change in direction. This should be no surprise. Specialist flat water paddlers and open water paddlers tend to be different animals as determined by the environment.

Anticipation - sit and switch frequently The most important skill in steering both a team canoe and a V1 is anticipation in being able to anticipate the swing of the hull from one direction to another.

Switching paddling sides, is by far the most common and simplest method used to hold a straight course especially when paddling in flat waters, in low winds, where the va'a deviates marginally left, then right, in accordance with your strokes and the side on which you are paddling. In some sense this is a best case scenario as many external factors (wind, tidal flow, swell) will ultimately ensure a bias in paddling one side or the other.

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Learning when to correct or stop the swing before it happens is crucial. If the bow of the va'a is allowed to swing too far before being corrected, it will require by ratio, increasing amounts of energy and effort to make the correction. If you work on about 10-15Âş either side of your desired line of travel, this is generally manageable - much beyond this and recovery will require very much larger amounts of energy expenditure.

Changing paddling sides to stop the swing must be done on time. It is far better to make many small corrections as a result of anticipation, than to attempt one big correction, which can be physically draining – and sometimes nearly impossible to recover from without drastic action.

This discipline is often difficult to master. Paddlers from an OC1 back-ground or similar, often find it difficult to change frequently and randomly in response to the demands of the conditions. OC6 and V6 steerers by contrast, tend to understand the dynamics at play and the consequences of delaying a switch of sides.

Because of the basic geometry of the V1, it's not uncommon to spend more time paddling on the ama side than the non-ama side, so much so, that at times in order to spend more time on the right, paddlers sometimes deliberately take their va'a off-line (to the right) in order to ensure a change of sides.

V1's demand asymmetrical paddling Whereas when paddling an OC1 or indeed many other canoe forms including an OC6, strokes on either the right or left are within small increments 'mirrored' and therefore symmetrical, the paddling of a V1, demands an altogether asymmetrical application of strokes, so as the right and left side paddling strokes are often substantially different.

In an OC6, the steerer can offset any shift in forces created by the paddlers acting to pull the hull left or right. Steering from the rear of the canoe, ensures the turning moment and force results in a much greater return on effort. A small, shallow, rudder stroke (poke) can bring about a substantial change in direction or a cancelling out of external forces, be it cross-winds, side swell or tidal flow.

In an OC1 (and V1) though the paddler is not seated in an optimum position with regards to applying steering strokes through the use of the paddle, but more so with regards to applying direct power and force to the hull resulting in forward movement, the rudder can be effortlessly used to offset any external forces affecting the line of travel, including significantly, any negative forces of the forward stroke acting to pull the hull left or right off-line with each stroke 196 | V1 Steering

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taken. This ensures that even paddlers of average ability, can hold an OC1 on course.

In contrast, a rudderless V1 is very much less forgiving and will make even a very experienced OC1 paddler, appear somewhat amateurish as they zig-zag their way across the water, even on a day where there's little or no adverse external factors. Finesse, concentration, anticipation and a regimented adherence to asymmetrical paddling is fundamental to controlling the craft.

So critical is this factor, that the basic physiological and biomechanical differences ensure two very different paddler types - as a weight lifter may be to a ballerina.

Many of V1's finest exponents are lean and above all, highly flexible and lithe - more ectomorph than mesomorph.

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Angle of blade at entry and catch The angle of your blade at the entry and thereafter the catch, can be used to compensate for the influence of wind, current or wave action.

Blade Face Angled Toward Hull Reach out wide and 'pull' the hull over toward the blade.

Blade Face Angled Outward from Hull Enter blade close to hull and 'push' (sweep) away from hull.

Both are used to make small directional corrections. To execute a turn, greater power is used and the blade is set out further away from centre line of the hull.

Both types of stroke are predominantly performed with arms and shoulders as against core muscle rotation. Co-ordination between upper and lower hands and power applied, determines the effectiveness of this directional change stroke.

Notes on front or rear steering strokes Forward originating steering strokes Beginning ahead of the body-line, this stroke will tend to be an active power steering stroke, requiring a degree of 'sweep' inward or outward from the craft as part of a forward stroke, executed predominately using the arms and shoulders. It's important not to over-reach forward with this stroke.

Rear aligned steering strokes (usually part of a combination) These tend to be passive strokes held in position to bring about a change in direction - these can sometimes be introduced at the end of an active steering stroke, so as to be the termination of the stroke before exit, or the blade may be entered and held in alignment with the body or behind. These strokes require full engagement of the core muscle groups and often a locking of the arms.

J-stroke The classic J-stroke has its roots firmly embedded from open canoe paddling.

The mind-set has been to take it into any canoe form on the assumption it works as effectively in any canoe type. Wrong. Ultimately, it is very much less effectual for steering a V1 craft, which is in every sense vastly different in just about all ways possible.

The intention of this stroke is to redirect the hull back toward the paddling side having been driven away from the paddling side during the making of the stroke. Hence, the sequence is simply a forward stroke, with J-stroke added in before exiting - it is in reality a combination stroke i.e. it flows from another.

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'Popular Mechanic' magazine, illustrates the craft and the technique in its pure form.

Several limitations become apparent when you consider the design and geometry of a canoe with added outrigger assembly.

A conventional forward stroke is taken, ending with a 'flick' of the wrist (rolling) outward, so as to push the back of the blade face into the on-flow of water, designed to redirect the hull back on track after the pull has been made, which tends to turn the hull away from the paddling side. The stroke is carried out with no delay or hesitation so as it extends into the exit phase of the stroke.

While a J-Stroke can be used to steer a V1, keep in mind, you have the opposing force of the ama acting to counter-act your efforts and a very long and slender hull form, designed to run in a straight line and in addition, heeling the hull over radically onto its edge, is not a feasible option.

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Stern push-away stroke This stroke is often confused for a J-stroke, however it is more aggressive and requires a delayed pause and push of the paddle outward. The back face of the blade, is pushed away from the hull when it is held near vertical or inclined backward up to 45°. It is the act of pushing outward which encourages the va'a to turn, encouraged by the torque from your body and hips.

The downside to this stroke is that it is in effect a form of 'brakestroke' being as you deliberately push the back of the blade face into the on-flow of water, with the objective of turning the hull toward the side you're paddling on.

The technique involves taking a forward stroke, then towards the end, exaggerating torso rotation, while twisting the blade face inward and on edge so as it cuts through the water cleanly. Before the blade reaches the side of the hull, with the blade buried (to varying degrees of depth as required) rotate (twist) forward and push the blade face outward, controlling the flow of water with your upper hand. The crank of a double-bend paddle, assists you in applying power and control to the blade face.

This is a common stroke used when downwind paddling or surfing and on many other points of paddling. The further aft the paddle is placed, the greater the turning affect. The shaft may be near vertical if the paddler is sitting near upright or angled backward with the paddler leaning aft.

Crucially, this stroke requires the paddler twist from the hips, lock the arms and apply the use of their core muscles - use of the arms alone will not work. Holding the blade behind you, you must apply an outward pushing pressure. Twist your torso to the right (ama side) or left (non-ama) accordingly. With hips locked into place, this will assist to apply torque (twist) to the hull to bring about a change in direction.

Because you are to some extent the pivot point around which the hull moves, the torque (turning affect) you create in locking in with your legs and twisting of your hips provides the impetus to bring about a change in direction - you are acting as the fixed object around which the hull swings left or right.

This is a very common stroke as it still permits forward power from the forward stroke, truncated with this active rudder stroke. It can be used on the left or right side. The more speed you have the more effective the stroke.

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Stern push-away This stroke may be an extension of the forward stroke or the blade can be simply entered behind the body-line of the paddler.

The wrists must twist so as the blade is turned edge downward, like a rudder, the back of the blade is then pushed away using twist from the entire torso to ensure adequate power and control over the oncoming flow of water. The idea here is to keep the blade angled aft so water flows cleanly from its edge so as you can, by increments, add added angle to the on-flow of water simply by twisting your body, with arms locked, forward.

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Pivot

'Crank'

Stern push-away stroke on the off-side The body's torque and use of core muscles and locked arms is essential.Turning your torso toward the direction of travel you wish to go, combined with 'locking' of the hips, legs and feet into the cockpit and side walls, assists in making you a 'fixed fulcrum' point around which the hull is pivoted set in motion through the force acting on the blade face. The lower arm is pushing 'outward' the top hand remains fixed.

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Double-Bend Paddle The use of a double-bend paddle over that of a single-bend, has little to do with 'ergonomics' and everything to do with implementing its mechanical advantage.

Anyone who tells you any different, isn't using it correctly or does not paddle a V1 to know or realise the benefits. While you could use a single-bend, a well designed doublebend, applied well provides mechanical advantages.

'Crank'

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www.kanuculture.com Wanting to go left - the stern push stroke is efficient while the equivalent forward sweep stroke is not and is best only used for minor course deviations when paddling, especially on the ama side.

Push-away stroke on the ama side IMPORTANT Vary the depth at which you bury the blade - vary the amount of outward force you apply as required.

Push away stroke recovery - hold in short bursts to bring about a direction change - avoid killing hull speed by not holding too long. Exit paddle and swing through back to the set up and entry. The ama will lighten when executed - you can lean over toward the ama side to control.

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Power pry Goon stroke Paddling on the left, will tend to influence the hull to travel to the right, but because ama drag pulls to the left, the forces are often 'balanced' so a more or less straight course can be maintained.

In order to encourage the hull to turn to the right when paddling on the left, the most energy efficient way is to execute a power pry (goon stroke) which requires the blade face to be angled inward toward and partially under the hull at the end of your forward stroke, with the blade face outward to the on-flow of water.

Power pry on the ama side The paddler must twist from the entire torso to deliver efficient control over the blade in redirecting the water flow. The hull pivots around the paddler to the right.

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Power pry on the ama side On the ama side. Both top and lower hands twist in order to turn the blade face, thereby redirecting the flow of water as it strikes the blade under the hull - turning in the same way in which a rudder would turn on an OC1.

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V1 - A Paddler's Guide The blade face has been opened up to replicate a rudder, the flow of water is redirected under the hull. The further aft the blade can be positioned the greater the turning moment (force) can be created. This brings about a turn to the right.

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Power pry on the off-side

A power-pry is particularly demanding. Note the degree of rotation in the body, positioning of the arms and angle of blade. This stroke is serving to 'steer' the hull left by twisting the blade to redirect the flow of water under the hull to turn the tail to the right - nose to the left.

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'C' stroke - for cross-winds This is particularly useful for dealing with cross-winds and originates forward and wide of the hull (opposite to a forward sweep). The stroke is pulled inward toward the paddlers seating level at about 45° then pulled parallel toward the exit - with the intention of redirecting the hull over toward the paddling side.

The stroke can be finished with a J or stern push away stroke.

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Conventional entry compared to 'C' stroke - entry made close to hull.

Forward sweep This stroke should be used sparingly and is only useful for small course changes in low winds and tidal flow. The biomechanical action is a 'pushing' action which is not the most powerful application of force. It attempts to redirect the nose (bow) rather than the tail. It can be used when near stationary and is more effective on the non-ama side. If stationary and you need to turn left, you can put your left leg in the water and carry out the stroke on the right.

Important: As the name implies, the stroke is entered forward and close to the hull. It then moves outward to its apex (pushing the blade). At this point, where pushing becomes pulling, avoid drawing the paddle inward, as this will counter the initial turning moment and only serve to pull the hull back toward the paddling side. You could exit the blade, or diminish the power, bringing the blade inward then combine with a power pry (goon) stroke.

The first part of the stroke will tend to be effective (by degrees according to factors working against it - wind, current, waves) in moving the hull away from the paddling side, but diminishes toward the apex as you move toward the hulls centre of buoyancy.

The further forward the paddler leans, the more dramatic the turning effect.

Transferring weight to the front leading foot may help ‘weight’ the bow and lighten the stern. Place the blade as close as possible to the side of the hull's, with the blade face facing outward and using a 'push and sweep stroke' with the blade at about 30-35° away from the side, so as the blade passes just beyond the hip. Do not add a draw stroke inward.

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When carrying out a forward sweep, the blade is 'pushed' away from the side of the hull - it's not that effective because of the ama resisting your efforts. Ensure that after it reaches the 'apex' (the furthest point of the arch or sweep) avoid 'drawing' the blade inward as this will merely act to pull you sideways back towards the paddling side.

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www.kanuculture.com To add some potency to your efforts (in this case to turn left) you can add in a brief power pry (goon) stroke to help contribute to the turn.

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Rudder strokes Rudder strokes are used on account of the fact they require relatively little energy and can be merely made an extension of the forward stroke or simply placed in position direct from entry.

If taken on the right, the hull will turn right and vice versa. The shaft is 'cupped' within the lower hand, between thumb and index finger, so as to act like a 'rollick' in a row boat against the side of the hull (the lower hand against the hull) the paddle is then 'pryed' (pulled with the top hand across the body-line) so as the back of the blade is pushed outward.

Strictly speaking you cannot 'pry' against the side of a V1 without running the risk of causing structural damage, this is why you must use your hand as the fulcrum point.

This stroke is often used in the case of surfing peeling waves, sometimes when downwind paddling, and requires torsional body movement and assumes the craft is being driven predominantly by wave power alone, where the need to take a forward stroke is not essential.

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A 'poke' is a rudder stroke where the blade is positioned with the leading edge directly into the flow of water and can be pryed outward by pulling the upper hand inward. Poking on the right, takes you right and vice-versa. Commonly used when 'surfing' or having to deal with larger down-wind conditions.

Note the lower hand acts as a 'rollick' or pivot point not the actual side of the hull which is delicate and in addition the shaft between thumb and index finger provides an ideal 'slot' into which to steady the shaft.

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A poke with a forward sweep of the blade and leaning back of the body and lowered hand positions, can be useful for surfing larger waves in particular.

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Paddling into head winds The V1 ocean racing hull is super smooth to paddle upwind, even in a high wind and choppy waters. Piercing through oncoming waters, the hull does not pitch up and crash down and loose significant speed like many of its OC1 cousins - even the sleeker designs, because nothing is as sleek and purposeful on the water than a streamlined, knife-like, high performance V1. While head winds quickly retard the glide of the va'a, so as the momentum has to be restarted, the sleek lines of the va'a hull, tend to assist more so than many bloated OC1 in comparison.

Paddling into the wind or current is the easiest as far as steering is concerned, as the va'a will tend to ‘weathercock’ into the wind, so long as you maintain a good dead in-line (head to wind) course and change sides frequently. In order to reduce the negative effects of a head wind, you want to minimise your surface area, leaning into the wind and assuming a low posture may help.

Bury the blade deeper than usual and shorten the stroke at the front, by shortening the reach - this will shorten the recovery phase. Because glide time is negated by the wind, the hull will rapidly slow after the exit, therefore it pays to ensure you do not let your stroke rate (strokes per minute) drop off too steeply or you will loose momentum rapidly - the stronger the breeze, the truer this becomes. Strong, heavier paddlers can afford a slightly slower 'rating' but lighter paddlers in particular, will need to keep the rating elevated.

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Turning when stationary Turning your va'a around when stationary is made difficult because you need forward momentum to make this possible. Turning to the left is always going to be easier and offer the tightest turning circle. This is best achieved with exaggerated forward sweeping strokes. You can also consider if necessary, dangling your left leg in the water to add drag, which can assist in turning as you make the stroke on the right. In strong cross-winds this can be very difficult and your turning circle will increase. It can be a dangerous situation to find yourself in, hence the need to be sure of your abilities before tackling stronger breezes. Ultimately, turn which ever way presents as easiest.

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V1 - A Paddler's Guide Paddling and steering a V1 in high winds and choppy waters, means you must be a workaholic in keeping it under your control or it will bully you every step of the way into going wherever the elements dictate. You must use a combination of strokes but most of all, anticipation is the key, in combination with knowing which stroke to use when and in what proportions.

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Ocean paddling in general terms Historically it's paramount to understand that the V1 was forged from its utilitarian links with lagoon paddling and although the craft has been highly modified from its original design parameters, the deck filled in, the overall length shortened, ama beefed up, even made shorter with a little added rocker, the fundamental reality remains, it still ultimately 'excels' in grace of form and function in glassy waters and little or no wind - more especially when it reverts back to its more original form, in being longer and narrower than its ocean racing counter-part.

This is not to say that V1 do not perform in rough, windy conditions.

In the hands of a highly skilled and conditioned va'a paddler, the upper limits of control can be maintained and the craft will do most all that which an OC1 will do - but the fact remains, mechanical intervention by virtue of the use of rudder in particular, gives the OC1 the edge in extremes of cross-winds (especially) and often in downwind paddling - the irony being, that this reality is only relative, relative to the skill levels of the paddler.

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Downwind paddling defined Those who hail from an ocean paddling background, will generally know the excitement to be had from downwind paddling. To excel at this skill requires often, years of uniquely acquired paddling skills and a passion for chasing ‘runners’, connecting the dots, knowing the rush one gets from combining the energy of wind and water.

Downwind paddling is characterised by the paddler using the wind to their advantage and enjoyment, in combining paddling and surfing skills so as to travel in a near direct line of travel of the wind harnessed through appropriate equipment, skills and physicality and an understanding of the required logistics, ocean and wind dynamics, central to the discipline.

Downwind water locations are often characterised by open stretches of water, generally exposed to prevailing winds, which may be Trades, as associated with tropical and sub tropical regions of the world, or simply prevailing winds. In either case, winds of this nature tend to be seasonal and have some degree of consistency of direction and velocity relative to the time of year, though any wind may be harnessed.

Ironically, many of the skills associated with being able to excel at the discipline, are unteachable in the true sense of the word. Most of what you learn is experiential and only acquired after a considerable amount of time - through the mechanics of 'discovery learning', much like surfing.

'If someone brings it up in conversation (how to surf down-wind) they're immediately shut down because " . . . it's all about feel and time on the water. As it goes with everything else in life; reading about the concepts won't make you a pro, but it will put you on the right track.' Luke Evslin, Kamanu Hawai'i

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Comparisons downwind V1 / OC1 Unlike OC1 paddling, which has propagated a culture of downwind paddling and the primary driving force of the craft's early evolution, downwind V1 paddling, though specialised, is less of a primary focus or by definition the reason for its being and this is reflected in the nature of many of the races created which tend to include a mix of angles of attack in relation to the wind.

Indeed it's reflected in the design of va'a, which are rarely, if ever, downwind specific as such (this may change with new specific events in the future).

"The creation of the OC1 craft can be understood, in the sense that the existence of ocean racing surf skis in Hawai'i and the existence of outrigger canoeing as a national team sport, set the stage for what was to become a burning need and desire by canoe paddlers, to pursue the same downwind paddling fun and expression that surf ski paddlers were experiencing, but using a solo OC craft variant, so as they could pursue this appealing form of paddling employing similar bio-mechanical actions. When the first surf ski Moloka'i Race was staged in 1980, 3 solo outrigger canoe variants were on the start line. In some sense this symbiotic relationship was self evident from the very beginning."

OC1 - A Paddlers Guide - Steve West.

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Comparatively, OC1 rudder mechanisms permit paddlers to overcome adverse external conditions affecting direction of travel, near effortlessly, simply by steering largely with the feet. Additionally, the paddler is free to 'muscle' their way through most directions of travel and lastly and very importantly, the paddler is more able to 'project' further into the distance in view of taking certain lines and angles of attack when seeking to link runners together.

The V1 paddler must remain more in the 'here and now' and stay focused on every nuance. An OC1 paddler moving to V1, must adopt an 'altered perspective' of the environment around them and how they deal with it through a blend of power, subtly, thought and acquired skills. You simply cannot jump onto a V1 and apply the same, often brutish approach as you can with an OC1.

Physiological aspects Chasing runners is essentially a series of sprints or efforts followed by recovery periods culminating with the set distance or marathon pace. In such conditions, it’s important to remember that bursts of effort for long periods of time are neither possible nor profitable. Rest periods, or at least periods at a steady pace must be balanced between these bursts and surges in power and effort.

During these bursts of effort, heart rates increase and the lungs may scream for air, placing high cardiovascular demands on the body, as opposed to the slower, more sustainable rate. Downwind paddlers must develop strong cardiovascular fitness because there are high aerobic demands placed on their bodies. Running, bike riding and swimming are activities which complement this fitness, delivering higher maximum heart rates than perhaps achievable when paddling.

V1 downwind Paddling downwind in flat water presents little problem, so long as you anticipate any directional shift and you change sides frequently. When waves and swell are added in, many factors act on the hull to bring about a pull one way or another. Greater speed and acceleration, will tend to increase friction (drag) and therefore being pulled left by the ama is common - hence why larger volume ama are used to prevent submerging and why ama are kept generally straight and not as curved as used on many OC1.

Dropping in on 'runners' As with OC1 downwind paddling, you aim to trim the hull along the line of the waves rather than taking off straight down the wave face and driving into the 224 | V1 Downwind

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back of the wave forming ahead, though in smaller conditions this may pay off, where the waves are too small to be ridden affectively at an angle.

While OC1 nose sections have larger volumes (generally) designed to resist burying, V1 hulls are so slender, that nose diving is common, but ultimately not such a critical event.

When the nose of your V1 buries even if only marginally, it will tend to hold a better line and this can be a good time to simply ensure it stays buried so as the feeling is not so much as you are being pushed from behind, but pulled from the front - pulled directly forward - picture a dolphin and how it rides deep within the back of wave and seems to be propelled forward as a consequence. Steering the va'a on this course and holding its line is a true art.

Conversely, when the nose and forward section of the hull breaks free, this is the most likely time when the va'a will tend to 'round up' to the left or even the right, pivoting mid-axis. You therefore aim to keep the nose in a downward trajectory and keep the power up before stalling occurs, indeed, keeping the nose in a downward trajectory, defines the primary aim of the paddler in keeping the nose down and the tail up. The art of linking waves is not as straight forward for the V1 paddler as it is for the OC1 paddler.

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Sit up Sitting upright will expose more surface area of your upper torso and may assist with travel. Implementing a generally higher stroke rate of a shorter length, exiting early, will also assist. Once again, it is important to keep the power on each stroke. This maintains control of the situation rather than letting the elements control you.

Change sides frequently and anticipate Paddling a V1 in open ocean conditions, where there's plenty of wave action, provides the ultimate challenge, but one of the most rewarding. It rates as one of the hardest skills to master (though not as hard as paddling cross-wind) the complexities of which are almost beyond reasonable explanation.

Mastery of such a skill is dependant upon many hours of experience in a variety of conditions. Strong winds and current in flat-water conditions, can be challenging enough, but by adding waves and swell action, the difficulties are 227 | V1 Downwind

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compounded. Anticipation of the highest degree is required and while powerful strokes are often necessary, you will also need to use a great deal of finesse in order to maintain a straight course.

You will need to pre-learn steering strokes to a good standard in the confines of inshore waters. Putting yourself into a downwinding open ocean environment in a rudderless V1 is simply asking for a 'spanking' as you may put yourself in danger and even experience some level of mental confusion in trying to figure it all out. No amount of patience can prepare you for the challenge in learning.

But learn you will in time.

When we talk of steering V6 or OC6, the one fundamental skill is the ability to learn to anticipate - anticipate the movement of the hull relative to the wind, waves, swell, current, moments before it happens. This is dependant on knowing the nuances of your craft intimately, its limitations, idiosyncratic behaviour and while this becomes specific to any singular craft (design / model) some of this information learning, remains generic across all V1 you find yourself paddling.

Knowing the stroke to take, passive or active and the mental dexterity to anticipate it, recall it and action it in a split second, is the difference between remaining in control or loosing it. Herein lies the reality, that truly accomplished V1 downwind paddlers, simply respond by instinct. Their skills and strokes are hard-wired into them - a sort of kinaesthetic programming.

This of course is where rudder steered OC1 have that edge, in taking away this requirement of having to constantly call upon a range of steering strokes, activated through lightening fast mental dexterity. This tells you that V1 paddling at this level is as mentally demanding, as it is physically.

Downwind paddling a V1 at speed demands you switch sides frequently and at speed - there must be little hesitation or you will loose control. Because you are travelling at speeds far greater than you can achieve on flat water, you will often be relying upon steering behind the body line.

Ensure you implement the correct steering strokes which do not sap your energy - 'C' strokes are common when paddling along the line of swells or waves in keeping the va'a running along the length of the wall, which is tending to want to turn the hull down and into the trough.

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Dropping in at speed. Here the direction of travel required along the wave is to the right, hence a stern rudder stroke is being used well behind the body-line, combined with leaning backward to take weight off the nose and to ensure the blade is set well aft (behind ama and body-line) to bring about the greatest turning moment possible.

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Once the line has been established, rather than remain holding a passive stroke behind the body, the blade is exited and swung only marginally and entered almost adjacent the body, then drawn inward and backward in a form of stern-draw. Weight on the ama is kept to a minimum, to negate being pulled left.

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The blade is turned inward to finish again with stern rudder stroke to continue the impetus toward the right. This stroke includes a substantial amount of forward impetus so as to 'tap' the hull along, as you would using your foot on a skateboard.

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V1 - A Paddler's Guide On the ama side, the paddler at first is using a stern rudder stroke to direct the va'a left.

Then he pushes downward on the rear hand and squeezes the blade inward to bring about a power pry to steer the va'a to the right.

It is this ability to combine strokes in quick succession which ensures maximum control in extracting energy from the ocean.

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Bumps and runners The experienced paddler reads the ocean or water as a series of ever rising and falling peaks and troughs collectively known as ‘bumps’ into which they steer their va'a, attempting to remain on the ‘fastest’ sections which provide the most assistance - the downward slope or forward face. This water is characterised by fast moving, wind generated surface water.

There can be many bumps, but not all bumps are 'runners', a term which more accurately defines the waves as being able to be 'surfed' and 'ridden.' Furthermore, some 'runners' are better than others and this you learn by attempting, often fruitlessly, to chase and paddle hard for everything. The art is in selection.

If a ground swell is present when downwind paddling, it may be possible to 'transition' between riding the surface generated wind waves to riding the larger ground swells. Where they are 'full' they can be difficult to catch and offer little speed gains - the steeper they are the better - where a swell for example is travelling south and there may be a north flowing tidal flow, this can assist the swell to 'stand up' and offer a better chance of being ridden.

As a snow skier moves left and right to carve a path between bumps (mogul) so too, the ocean paddler seeks a similar path between the waves. In response to this particular need, designers design V1 to be more manoeuvrable than their flat water counterparts, tweaking hull rocker, width and the hull 'sweet spot' specifically for chasing runners downwind.

The art of selecting and remaining in the fast section of these runners requires the paddler to remain alert, anticipating or seeing where one section is diminishing and another is forming. The goal is to ultimately ‘connect’ or ‘link’ these newly forming sections to maximise assistance and speed, sometimes referred to as ‘connecting the dots'. The problem comes with V1 paddling, in contrast to OC1 paddling, in that you must remain focused in the more immediate area in which you are paddling - you cannot look too far ahead in pre-empting the next best place to be - or you may loose control.

As a consequence, in the case of downwind paddling, the fastest direction between two points is rarely in a straight line.

Importantly, when moving at speed it’s not so much what’s behind you that matters, but what’s in front. This is in contrast to freesurfing, where for want of a better term, you are 'pushed' from behind. This represents a paradigm shift in thinking for surfers in particular. | V1 Downwind 154 | 234 Downwind Paddling

V1 - A Paddler's Guide The level of concentration required is at times over-whelming when you have to rely upon your instincts, which in the early days, can test your patience when in the very process of developing those instincts required.

Your nerve and your body will at times be tested to new limits in the context of paddling. Master a V1 in most all situations and when you come to sprint racing, you will be prepared to handle whatever the elements throw at you.

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An ability to identify runners and knowing which to chase is a skill. You need to be constantly eyeballing the water and looking to put yourself into a position in order to stand a chance of connecting with it. Remember these runners are all ahead of you (on a good day).

Change paddling sides frequently to keep fresh arms and to keep in sync with the ocean's movements. When you drop in, you may need to alter your centre of gravity, by leaning forward or backward.

Stay mentally alert. You must make quick decisions about which steering strokes to take. Keep looking for the next 'depression'. One way to identify a runner forming ahead of you, is to observe the ocean tearing itself apart, creating a hole. You’re looking to put yourself there by steering the nose of the va'a into the hole.

Every time you see an opportunity, work out if it is worth chasing. You're looking for the steepest and fastest moving section, traveling more or less in the direction you want to go. After 3-4 hard strokes, if you're not on it, save your energy and look elsewhere. As you begin to fatigue it's not uncommon to begin to make judgment errors and get caught out.

The surface generated waves - the fast moving surface water, is generally what the downwind paddler seeks. Ground-swell can be caught only with this assistance, but is not the primary provider of speed gains.

The main distinction between surfing and downwind paddling, is that the surfer is concerned with waves behind them. For the downwind paddler, you're looking to drop into the wave ahead of you, provided you're travelling at sufficient speed, therefore your focus is ahead of you, not behind. It is much like downhill skiing.

You're looking at dropping into depressions and putting yourself into a series of holes. When you stall, you may briefly need to rely upon a wave from behind to lift and push to get you back in sync.

Developing a sense of anticipation is an essential skill only learned with lots of time spent on the water chasing runners. Anticipating how the waves are forming ahead and around you and determining where you need to be, even before it happens, is a sixth sense, which the best downwind paddlers develop in putting themselves with consistency into the fastest sections of water which pay off in speed.

Paddles High wind, specialist downwind paddlers look for paddles which are light and easy to throw between sides and offer very clean exit and entry. Very high stroke rates are sometimes required. Differences in downwind paddling styles 236 | V1 Downwind

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may vary so as some paddlers will prefer smaller blade sizes in order to permit high stroke rates while some heavy, strong paddlers in particular, may prefer slower rates using larger blade face sizes. There's no one size for all as it will very much depend on the paddler's physiology and approach toward bump riding.

Stroke rate relative to rate of travel When paddling downwind following a ‘running’ sea, knowing when to paddle hard and when to back off are key skill elements. The ability to deliver varying power, increased stroke rates and different technique to achieve effective speed gains, is a true skill.

The trigger to change any single or multiple aspect of technique or application, can either be a visual response in seeing the runner forming ahead in the form of a trough or a ‘feeling’ when the craft begins to drop at the nose and lift at the tail.

While your focus needs to be partly on what’s ahead of you, reading and interpreting the constantly changing shape of the ocean and anticipating how your va'a is going to react, you must not loose concentration on the immediacy of your surrounds.

These skills transcend true explanation and must be learned by experience. You must remain resolute and confident, continually biting away at the ocean, reading its nuances immediately in front and below the blade, keeping a broader view and continually setting up to take advantage of the ocean’s energy. Avoid ‘switching off’ and simply swinging away without thought.

Knowing when to vary the stroke rate, how much power to deliver to the blade, and your optimum length of reach, is only acquired by paddling all points of the ocean; across, into and with, so you learn to vary your stroke to get the most out of the ocean and your board. This knowledge is paramount in remaining in harmony with a constantly shifting ocean.

The faster the va'a travels, the higher your potential stroke rate will be, indeed it should increase and in addition your stroke rate can also be shortened. Stroke rate can be measured by strokes per minute. Some paddlers fail to vary their stroke rate, creating retarding forces countering the hull's progress.

Think in terms of powering a scooter, using long and strong leg pushes on flat ground using a regular steady cadence. As you progress up a hill (wave) your leg action will shorten and slow on account of the added forces working against you (don't waste energy pushing up-hill) then as you reach the crest and drop down 237 Downwind 154 ||V1 Downwind Paddling

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the hill (wave) your leg action speeds and length of reach will increase then shorten as you reach maximum speed, your stroke rate can slow, maintaining good reach, at which point you can stop altogether as you enjoy the ride. As the scooter begins to slow, you bring your leg back into action to provide direct power where gravity has left off.

Vary your stroke rates, relative to your position on each wave. This variance will alter your paddling between anaerobic and aerobic states. Slower equates more anaerobic. Faster equates, more aerobic (more oxygen dependant). Essentially chasing runners consists of a series of short sprints followed by periods of relaxation (recovery).

In the trough between sets When you are in the trough of a wave, between wave sets, your stroke rate will tend to slow as the surface water particles are revolving counter to your direction of flow, which tends to bring about longer, deeper, stronger strokes.

Long and strong is the maxim here generally. By adopting this technique, you conserve some aerobic energy and prime the hull keeping power on the blade.

Water particles within waves, rotate forward at the peak and backward at the trough. This results in (approximately) no net motion of the water, as the wave passes i.e. it simply moves upward and downward. Within the wave trough, the water particles are revolving against you. As you approach the back of the wave the water particles tend to be revolving in your favour, assisting in ‘pulling’ you toward the peak of the wave ahead of you. Once you reach the peak, rotational forces increasingly act against you as you begin to move down the wave.

This great image, encapsulates the V1 experience paddling downwind with an abundance of 'runners'. The workload is enormous when compared to OC1 downwind paddling, where skill levels and concentration are tested to the limit.

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It's important to consider, that many of the steering skills required to paddle downwind can be practiced on days when there is very little wind a slight breeze with some surface motion is often enough to practice many of the basics. As the wind increases and steepness of the waves, everything merely becomes accelerated.

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Approaching the peak At the peak, you will need to ‘push-over’ this section by paddling over the peak and onto the wave face until such time as the net rotational hydrodynamical forces of the water moving up the wave face due to the hulls speed are sufficient, so as the buoyancy of the hull and the gravity of your weight acting downwards, reach a point of negating each other (net zero force) which frees the hull up so as it is ‘surfing’ and you can partially relax.

Dropping in - from paddling to surfing Either the nose will drop, as the tail lifts as the wave behind catches you up if you have slowed dramatically, or if you have maintained speed (ideal) you will steer the va'a over, down, then as a significant acceleration of speed results, you need to angle the craft along the length of the wave, so as to avoid the trough.

Your stroke rate should increase in direct proportion to the speed you are travelling. Unlike OC1 downwinding, a V1 will tend to demand you keep paddling and of course constantly implementing steering strokes.

Critically, you need to time the transition from paddling to steering (as you begin to surf) in such a way as you are clear about the direction you are taking and which steering stroke you are going to use. Once you get into a rhythm of the nuances and interaction with the waves you will be better able to alter your stroke rate to suit and in time it will become instinctive.

Common mistakes Failing to vary stroke rates and lengths. Tending to follow a straight line. Not eyeballing water around you. Chasing poor quality waves. Chasing every bump (not every bump is a 'runner'). Lack of concentration.

Switching paddling sides Whereas when paddling an OC1 you can change paddling sides without too much thought, having to paddle and steer a V1 simultaneously, your decision to change from one side to the other is largely dictated by your need to steer on one side or the other. You cannot merely change sides because you are tired.

Ironically, changing sides frequently is however your best way to avoid this, but in order to do this you must use a variety of strokes, often ones which bring about the same course directional change on either side.

An alternative way to look at this, is to ensure you are steering using the most efficient strokes possible and most importantly avoid over-reliance upon sweeping and draw strokes (power-strokes) which sap your energy.

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When you feel the va'a stalling When the va'a stalls and its forward momentum has slowed between waves, usually because of the retarding forces of water flow in the opposite direction of your travel, this is a good time to switch sides so as you can grind hard and deep to get momentum - but importantly, this is a good time to change direction; surface tension can be pulling the va'a downward - break it by altering direction.

Importantly, avoid applying maximum power to the blade if the nose of the va'a is inclined upward - uphill paddling is ineffective!

At this point as the nose begins to level back down, apply increasing amounts of power as the wave ahead diminishes and the wave behind builds. Once up to speed as a result of being 'pushed' from behind, you can begin chasing what's ahead of you not behind you.

Going long or going short For the most part your stroke will be reasonably long out front, but there will be times when you will need to shorten up.

Going short, is demanding in terms of its application. A shortening of the reach provides you with a brief opportunity to; increase hull speed through increased stroke rate; maintain speed in adverse situations such as paddling against strong tides and shallow water (where the hull is sucked down - known as 'interaction') or when you need to push over the face of a swell. It can also be used in short bursts to catch up and overtake when racing.

Perhaps the most common example of its application is from a standing start where the stroke-length is initially short and deep, progressively lengthening out as a steadier pace is established. The skill here is in having excellent paddle control so the blade is buried cleanly, ensuring it ‘bites’ before power is applied and that the exit is clean. 'Rooster tail' starts may look good, but are generally inefficient. You must however, avoid heavily 'depth-charging' the blade as this may bring about a change of direction.

Adding variety to your stroke The most common time to vary long and short reach is when chasing runners.

A following sea continually accelerates and decelerates the progress of the hull as it travels between waves and at times ‘stalls’ in the trough. When the va'a falls off a runner and labours in the trough, it's a good time to ‘shorten up’.

You want to apply smooth power, to ‘prime’ the hull for the next drop in.

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and gathers speed, the stroke is lengthened out and the stroke rate increased proportionally to match speed.

Flat water paddling calls for a consistency of stroke length and rate. But even in this situation, variation will break the monotony and provide bursts of speed in between the ‘distance pace’.

Powering up / powering down Relates back to our stroke rate and length. Powering up means you are applying maximum power to the blade, but not a high stroke rate. Often used in the trough or when wanting to drop-in on a wave or when the hull is stalling.

When you feel you are about to surge on a wave, the faster you begin to move, the less leverage or power required to the blade being as you are transitioning from paddle power to wave power in effect, going from muscling the va'a into position to allowing nature's power to take over.

When switching paddling sides, avoid doing so when totally fatigued. Do so before this happens in order to maintain a higher overall level of power and consistency. Having changed sides, determine how much power you need to apply to the blade balanced with what degree of steering you need to apply.

Paddling variations simplified 1. Long and strong when the hull is 'running' along larger wave face, when cruising in flatter water keeping lots of power to the blade. Avoid pulling too far past hip.

2. Short and deep. Shorten length out front, but go deeper. Use when in trough of wave. When powering up, or just before you drop into the wave.

Shorten stroke and go deep.

3. Quick 'n light. Stroke rate increases, power to the blade lessened and not driven so deep. Use when on wave, moving quickly. Travelling at speed, maintain momentum, quick 'n light to keep hull moving. Think also in terms of exiting paddle early.

Generate mental pictures of varying paddling rates and how much power to apply to the blade. Varying stroke rate, depth and length, is to work with the movement of water, not against it.

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when V1 are being 'surfed' but for regular downwinding in open water, this tends not to be the case. The reason being, the V1 hull is not designed to be very efficient in being rolled and because of its shape, is just as efficient flat down.

Sweet spot variance between canoes The 'sweet-spot' is essentially a section along the hull, where when the wave is positioned at this point, the hull travels fastest in balance with all other factors.

It is the canoes optimum 'surfing' balance point if you will and because the paddler is seated and in a fixed position, the sweet-spot will only be within a very narrow band-width, usually under the area in which the paddler sits.

This area usually corresponds with the hulls centre of gravity (heaviest point acting downward) which generally corresponds closely with that of the hull's centre of buoyancy - the area with the most volume (acting upward). At the optimum speed and positioning of the wave, the hull in some sense becomes 'weightless' or at least, the amount of gravity acting downward on the hull is being offset by the net speed, which results in some degree of lift, which in part is the very principle of how 'wave riding' or 'surfing' can be described.

Where you sit in relation to this sweet-spot is critical. Too far forward or back of it and you could nullify its affect - this is why the sweet-spot must match your height in relation to where you sit on the va'a - and equally your weight.

The constant shifting of the undersides foot print relative to where it is on the wave, has led designers to add marginal amount of 'rocker' (fore to aft curvature) so as to assist in keeping the footprint area more constant and aiding conformity to the natural curvature of the waves.

Summary Like surfing, downwind paddling is something of an art which cannot be taught per se, but must be learned through time on the water - lots of it. Observe those more proficient than you and don't be surprised that even paddlers very much older and wiser than you, but not as fit, can still leave you way behind, purely on account of how they read the water and apply body and blade to the task.

"It takes some time to understand that critical energy balance between dropping in and falling off the wave. It also takes time to be able to find the openings. Putting it all together takes a lifetime.

The ability to surf is arguably the single most important aspect of outrigger canoeing. You can be in peak fitness with a perfect stroke, but you'll get obliterated in the surf if you don't understand the concept". Luke Evslin, Kamanu Hawai'i 243 Downwind 154 || V1 Downwind Paddling

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10 Strategies For Sprint and Distance Racing

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Race strategies and preparation The concept of race strategy and preparation is a complex issue, it is however what sets those who take their racing seriously from those who ‘also raced’.

Ultimately it is a form of management.

Preparation is primarily a pre-race strategy for success, a strategy which bringing together all the facets of that pre-race preparation when on the start line and once the race begins, ensures the greatest success.

Preparing a number of weeks out from an event, even months (sometime years) constitutes good planning, whereas planning when on the start line, could be considered a strategy for disaster. Generally the longer the race, the greater the importance of planning and the greater the amount of preparation needed.

Pre-race preparations Over the course of time leading up to an event, various pre-race preparations will need to be considered as part of your strategy for success.

Beyond the issue of a creating a training regime, the well prepared paddler is above all organised and prepared for all eventualities.

You should know how you will respond to capsize or equipment failure and have tested and prepared your hydration and food needs, selected your equipment and made a complete check everything is in working order.

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You may need a spare paddle and for overseas V1 races, it may be possible to take your own rigging box containing all the necessary tools, including a repair kit, spare lengths of inner-tube and a bailer made to your liking, spare bungs and a medical kit. You could travel with your own i'ato, even your own ama.

Don't forget registration, eligibility, divisions, pre-race food and hydration needs, time and day of race, briefing time on race day, meeting place and time, travel arrangements, accommodation, maps of the course, tidal information, prevailing winds - the list is exhaustive.

Pre-race analytical considerations Various pre-race analytical considerations will help form the basis for success.

For many distance races, the course is decided upon only a few days out and there are often alternative courses in place to allow for poor weather conditions. However, having some idea of the race area is at least a greater benefit than having no idea.

Analyse the race course, use charts and maps, consider tide states and direction, prevailing winds, sea states, prevailing swells, currents, length of race, expected duration. Analyse the start line, noting the time of race and ‘expected’ conditions, read weather charts, listen to local forecast. Use web-based weather prediction sites. View the race course and travel over it by boat beforehand if required. Over sprint courses, lane depths and exposure to differing wind variables can exist and may vary during the course of the day - some courses can be affected by tidal influences.

All these considerations help to build a picture of the nature of the race so you can begin considering your preferred race strategy - course to take, starting line position, etc. Essentially, you need to intellectualise your race.

Race day preparation Check actual conditions against predicted, ensuring the course is the same and has not been altered. Check all equipment and rigging. Ensure va'a rigged appropriate to conditions, attach spare paddle, add bailer, check bungs and ama. Ensure you understand start procedure, make sure you register, attend briefing, hydration system (if needed) is working and in place, energy bars etc are secured and available. For sprint days, ensure you arrive early for your heat/s and that the entire process and manner of advancement is understood.

If racing with your own va'a, rig and prepare for the conditions and be very meticulous - give yourself plenty of time to ensure there are no equipment issues - micro-manage early so as you can be clutter-free in your mind.

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Race strategy Your race strategy is putting into practice the pre-race analysis which you have formulated. Having confirmed the course and having checked the actual conditions, you can now put into place your plan; position on start line, course to take and the manner in which you will run your race, etc.

The three basic strategies Three basic strategies are used in either sprint or distance races and these include; lead and pace, even pace, and negative split.

Longer open water events require that you are adaptable. A relatively static, flat water course provides for a number of strategies, but as conditions deteriorate, options tend to be limited as the event turns into a matter of survival of the fittest. Sprint distances vary from 250 - 500 metres, requiring a different strategy in relation to your own particular physiology, which you need to determine during the course of your training.

Lead and Pace Used for short sprint racing in particular, where the object is to establish an early lead and to hold on until the end, putting psychological pressure on the opposition. Training for this race strategy must be specific, as it requires paddling at maximum pace the entire duration.

Because the lead and pace method requires maximum pace at the outset, the paddler must be well disciplined and technically sound at higher stroke rates.

The first strokes of the race are crucial with minimal blade slippage, therefore good paddle skills and a high degree of strength are required.

Even Pace Essentially this requires the race be broken up into two equal parts. The intention here is to attempt to cover the first section of the race at a pace which is less than maximum, with the intention of finishing the second half of the race with greater intensity and pace. This requires a high degree of discipline, it means being behind at the start and saving energy for the second half of the race. Even pace may work fine in calm conditions; if conditions deteriorate the plan could be affected.

Negative Split More suited to longer sprint races, the concept relies ever faster intermediate times, i.e. progressive build up of speed to the finish. Technically very difficult to implement.

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Strategies over distance Most successful paddlers have fast starts and the ability to maintain a high average hull speed throughout the race, having enough in reserve for a fast finish. A fast start is crucial to avoid collisions and adverse wake and in many respects the lead and pace approach seems to bring big benefits in this regard.

High intensity off the start line, employing an often high stroke rate, which lengthens and slows with only a marginal drop in intensity over the first few minutes of the race.

Dominating the start of a long race and establishing a good position within the first 15 minutes of racing is important as it seems that there comes a point where positions often remain unchanged within any given race and the more static the conditions, the truer this seems to be. There are many ways to break this 15 minutes down; the first 30 seconds, the next 60, the next 2 minutes . . .

Top paddlers will often blend near maximal and sub-maximal paddling throughout the race, i.e. 75% - 90% effort. This is particularly true where a race course includes a following sea and wind conditions. Additionally, some paddlers will have an advantage depending on their preference for rough or smooth water, upwind or downwind paddling. Knowing your abilities and optimum performance conditions will play a big part in your race strategy.

Playing to your strengths is vital in order to optimise performance.

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The start Before the start of any race a warm up is essential. For longer events, as much as 15 minutes of water time prior to the race may be needed and the longer the race, the more important this seems to be. Usually immediately following the race briefing, you should be thinking of getting on the water, warming up and finding composure and a feel for your surrounds.

When on the start line for longer races, you must take control of the situation and make your intentions clear, positioning yourself in a good spot early on the start line, while ensuring the va'a is under control and lined up appropriately.

Steering and micro-managing the hulls position on the line can be difficult in adverse winds and tidal flow.

For sprint races, ensure you're lined up straight or that your first stroke, pulls y0u straight in relation to the course. Pay attention.

DO not be distracted by others. Avoid 'racing' further than you have to - start on the line, not far behind it.

In big races, where there are many va'a on the start line and when conditions are adverse, collisions are common and you will want to avoid these - however you cannot account for others losing control of their va'a or those who are aggressive in nature and use ramming tactics. Beach starts can result in collisions - and this is something you will need to practise. Running to your va'a, pushing it into the water (or lifting), climbing in and setting off.

Some paddlers will try to line up beside fast paddlers who know what they are doing - but then you are more likely to end up log jammed. If you are a novice, it may be a good idea to line up behind a fast paddler, not beside them, so you have a clean run behind. It does pay to know your limitations at times.

When the start of the race comes, make sure you are paddling not steering.

You cannot afford to miss a stroke after the gun. This can be achieved if the va'a is aligned appropriately and free from others infringing on your space.

After the start After a few minutes into the race, you will be jostling for position, eyeballing the best line, seeing where the top paddlers are headed or if you are out in front, you will have to begin putting your own stamp on the race as leader.

Avoiding collisions with others is a top priority; out-paddle, outsteer but avoid actual physical contact with others if at all possible.

Settle yourself, find your pace and line and above all do not loose concentration.

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Remember to look over your shoulder, don’t get tunnel vision. It’s OK to cover an overtaking va'a from behind, i.e move left or right to prevent a va'a from passing, but once it has established an overlap you must give way. This can be detrimental to your own game plan and ultimately an exercise in folly.

On occasion, fast paddlers get tangled up at the start and then come marching back up the field. Realistically, if they’re very quick and you’re not so fast, it would be smart to let them go as it’s inevitable that they’ll get past at some point, don’t make it to your detriment. Choose your battles carefully.

Though you have your race plan, be flexible. Keep your options open as many things can occur during the course of a race - the longer the race, the greater the number of variables which occur.

You will have to make judgement calls at some stage and this may mean being bold and courageous in order to counter a situation and improve your position.

Dealing with problems There’s no question that things do go wrong from time to time. Equipment failure, capsize, injury. These eventualities should have been covered during training and should not be something which creates great confusion and stress if they eventuate. With regards pain management - learn to distinguish between good and bad pain.

Collisions, T- bones and rounding markers Accidental collisions occur, no doubt. Yet many could be avoided. If you believe that as a genuine part of your race strategy and style, you should deliberately collide with other va'a, then you need seriously rethink this approach. Above all other considerations, it’s dangerous, reckless and irresponsible behaviour that can injure people and damage valuable equipment.

Approaching the mark, the inside va'a should have 'right of way' the outside va'a should avoid contact. If on the outside, it can pay to slow down and turn behind the lead va'a taking an inside line.

‘Interaction’ - what is it?

Interaction is that spooky thing that happens when the va'a travels over shallow water of less than around 3' (1m) or so and it feels as if it’s moving through mud. The shallower it is, the slower you seem to go. This is one level at which interaction can occur, it's also what happens when two va'a are close at speed, they often collide - they are attracted to one another due to pressure waves.

As the va'a travels over shallow water, the hull and the sea bed act to squeeze the water between, creating pressure which pulls them together. The va'a is 250 | Race Strategies and Sprints

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actually being pulled downwards and the faster you are travelling the greater the effect. Cutting corners and travelling over shallows and experiencing interaction is often a poor trade off as paddler's suffer in having to work so hard to deal with this.

Sprints - Lane distinction, flags and buoys There are a number of things you can do prior to your race to avoid confusion; one of the biggest pitfalls while sprint racing is lane confusion. In addition, there are variations of lane widths, the total number of buoys used to define lanes and the configuration in which they are placed.

Universally there is no standard. If travelling overseas, pay careful attention to lane configuration and widths and practise at home accordingly, research what lane configuration will be used prior to race day.

Prior to your race Make sure you know the total number of lanes. Check that the flag colours are the same at each end for your lane. Know the colour of your outer lane buoys (if used) either side of your central marker.

Landmarks and transits If time permits, paddle partially along your lane, turn and sight your central buoy which should be flagged. Note what is directly behind it if possible, a tree, house, toilet block. Depending on the light, it can be hard to rely on colour alone as the flags / buoys may look very similar.

Race start procedures Depending on where you are racing, the start procedures may well vary. You will need to know these rules without ambiguity. Possibly the most significant difference is in the final flag and whether the race begins when it is raised or dropped.

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International Va'a Federation World Sprints Starting procedure 2014 15. Starts a. Contestants must be present on time at the starting line, in the order stated for the day’s events. b. Starting signals shall be given regardless of absentees. c. The position at the start should be such that the bow of each competing va'a is lined up in its assigned lane without movement on the starting line. d. Holders may be used, and may be either: (1) by mechanical means, or (2) with people to hold the stern of the canoe by way of a platform or from the water. e. The start will be controlled by the aligner, located at the side of the course, and the starter, located in a boat in the middle of the course approximately sixty meters in front of the starting line. f. Starting procedures must be as follows: (1) Immediately prior to race start time, the starter will raise a white flag signalling va'a to come to the pre-start line. (2) As soon as the va'a are lined up on the pre-start line, the aligner will communicate to the starter the OK to raise a red flag signalling the va'a to line up evenly on the start line. (3) As soon as the va'a are lined up evenly, the aligner must communicate quietly to the starter by radio to start the race. (4) Instantaneously upon radio communication, the starter will simultaneously lower the red flag and raise a green flag signalling the start of the race. An air horn or other sound device will simultaneously be set off, but the green flag is the official start. (5) If the aligner is unable to line up the va'a evenly and their positioning makes it difficult to do so, he may order the white flag to be raised and begin the process again. (6) At the start of a race, no va'a shall have an illegal advantage. All va'a that are lined up illegally will be provided a warning by the raising of the black flag indicating an infraction exists and will be be given the opportunity to line up correctly. If, after reasonable time, a va'a persists in lining up so that an illegal advantage is gained, the aligner may start the race, signalling this infraction by the raising of a black flag. (7) If the aligner, after communicating to the flag person to start the race, sees an unfair situation not previously noticed, a rerun must be immediately called. (8) If the aligner sees any reason to immediately halt the race for a rerun, he will communicate such to the course boats by radio and the waving of a red flag.

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12. Lanes and course markers a. The course will be set up as shown on the course diagram.

(1) Straight races are marked by the flags on each side of the lane (2) Turn races shall turn around the flag marking the centre of the lane. The width of the lane is from buoy to buoy. The canoe must remain within the buoy markings throughout the course of the race. b. The course shall be surveyed to the course diagram prior to the event for accuracy. c. There must be at least five (5) and no more than eight (8) lanes. Half lanes are allowed for 500 meter straight races. d. The course shall have lanes that are: (1) 500 meters long; (2) 25 to 35 meters wide for turn races with half that width allowed for straight races; (3) at least 2 meters deep, but exceptions may be allowed by the Board if the course is of uniform depth; e. All 500 meter races are run on a straight 500 meter course. Races 1,000 meters and above may be run on either a 250 meter or 500 meter course. Turn races on a 250 meter course will start and finish at the same point. f. The course shall have flags that measure a minimum 70 cm by 70 cm. g. Start and finish lines shall be aligned by the flags for the innermost and outermost lanes. h. A lane or area shall be designated so that the contestants may proceed safely to the starting line without interfering with the race course. i. When a race is taking place, paddlers who are not racing will not be permitted on or near the course, unless so directed by the competition director.

Observe the starter’s procedure as they tend to repeat a pattern. Be wary of extra pedantic starters who aim for perfect line-ups for every race, they tend to be quick to disqualify for the slightest infraction.

Develop the skill of anticipating the start to get a quick getaway.

Being cautious, by hanging back from the line and loitering will cost you valuable distance. It will also send a message out to other paddlers that you aren’t particularly competitive. Take it up to the line, be assertive and control your va'a using small draw strokes.

Practise holding your va'a stationary as part of your training in a varying wind conditions and angles.

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The line up and start Prior to arriving at the start line, have some idea of the conditions, in particular the wind, direction. Facing the bow of the va'a directly into the wind as close as possible to your flag, will prevent the hull from being blown all over the place and save you from continually manoeuvring the canoe into position. However this may not always be possible. The wind may be coming from behind, in which case, you can keep the stern of the va'a into the wind, angled as close to your starting lane as possible.

Never place yourself more than 45Âş to your lane turning a stationary va'a to line up straight, is not always a quick and straight forward process. The first stroke is essential. When you anticipate that the starter is within moments of starting the race, paddler must be reaching out, ready to go, not backing up, talking and rubber necking.

If your va'a is incorrectly positioned at this stage, you’re going to be instantly disadvantaged. Missing even one stroke off the start, compared to your opponents, can make all the difference.

Practise manoeuvring in tight areas using a variety of reverse and draw strokes as preparation for control at the start line. This is an important skill so as you can ensure you are aligned correctly, Practice in calm and windy conditions, including cross-winds.

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‘Get the canoe on the start line in plenty of time. Take into account any cross-wind and current and begin figuring out what you’re dealing with. While waiting, keep the va'a into the wind - nose or tail. Setting yourself up for a good start is crucial’. Jim Foti.

Steering techniques along the course The mechanics of good flat water paddling come into play along the course.

You will need to paddle steer as little as possible, depending on the wind and how much it is affecting your heading. Anticipation of the swing of the va'a is critical and ensuring you change sides within only a small range of angle of deviation, as little as only 10º - much past 15º the correction required will sap both your energy and hull speed.

You want to paddle as much as you can while keeping the va'a as straight as possible. Use your peripheral vision to be alert to other va'a and don't loose sight of your marker.

Race finish There may be some variance, regarding which side of the markers you can finish, but as a general rule, you must start and finish within your lane as designated by the outer extremity lane markers or within your half of your lane when using the single flagged buoy system. Always check your region to ensure compliance.

The utilitarian nature of the V1 permits such pursuits as fishing to be undertaken - in the process you learn new skills and may even catch dinner. Colin Philp paddling in Fiji waters.

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You may wonder why include a section devoted to carrying and lifting, but the fact is, good technique (physics) is required when handling not only such a relatively delicate, expensive and no doubt 'precious' craft, but one which is ultimately awkward on account of its length and the added issue of the i'ato and ama.

So delicate are some racing V1 there is an art and protocol in place with regards to how they are handled.

Because of the large cockpit area and cowling (lip) of the cockpit itself, carrying a V1 requires a slightly different approach, as this area of the craft, tends to be relatively delicate and prone to crushing and cracking and therefore it is not a good strong point unlike that of OC1 designs where this area tends to be strengthened up, the padded seat also sometimes making resting on the shoulder comfortable. There's no fin to concern yourself with and the ama tend to be rigged closer to the hull than that of an OC1.

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The total weight of your V1 may well be light, perhaps less than 15kg, but the issue is the distribution of weight and the added problem of windage acting against the craft can make it seem very much heavier.

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Picking up at ground level The hardest position to pick up your V1 will be when your feet are at the same level as the underside of the hull (or deck if upside down). Having to bend down to pick it up is where back and even shoulder injuries can occur, therefore you need to ensure bent knees, stepping in close.

Allow for the wind Always account for the wind direction - even at the rigging stage, if there's breeze, rig with the nose or tail of the craft pointed into the wind, which will lessen the chances of the craft rolling away in the wind and make for an easier lift, so you can get the craft up off the ground securely before turning if required, toward the water. This same approach applies when returning to shore where you may need to angle the craft into the wind for an easier pick up.

Avoid pressure around the cockpit Because the cockpit area is not only delicate and prone to crushing, the lip (where a spray deck can be added to prevent water travelling up into the cockpit) makes it uncomfortable jamming into your shoulder. These factors make it comfortable to carry the craft from underneath, so as the hull rests on your shoulder and the ama is held away from the body.

An OC1 seat area is flatter, stronger and a comfortable area upon which to support its weight on your shoulder. In contrast, the V1 cockpit area, tends to be delicate and its design, does not provide an ideal resting spot to place on your shoulder. Rolling the hull so as the ama is fully elevated and placing the hull on your shoulder is one option. Upside down the void within the cockpit area can be somewhat uncomfortable on the shoulders, but if the hull is light then you can take most of the weight with your arms.

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From the beach

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One of the easiest ways to lift the va`a is to get below its water line on the ama side and place your shoulder underneath the hull and wrap your arm under the hull to grab the cowling of the cockpit. Use your left arm to steady the ama.

So long as you have the balance point correct, simply stand and you find this very From the water - direct upward easy lift on - nose first your back and With the water just below waist deep, this lift is made easier. your arms.Make sure you empty water from the hull void area#1 (bail or tip out) before lifting.

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Side-on lift from the water Not so easy, is to lift the va'a with your right arm up to your shoulder as you cannot use your legs to good effect and shallow water makes it harder as you need to bend a long way down.

Make sure you empty water from the hull void area (bail or tip out) before lifting.

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Setting the va'a down nose first

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Direct upward lift from the water - tail first

Va'a is being carried to shore tail first, the arm supporting the hull, not the shoulder.

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Capsize

Try to control the capsize by pressuring the back of the blade. Unlike an OC1, you are rolling with the hull as you are 'in it' not 'on it' so you are less likely to lose contact with the craft hence why the use of leg leashes are rarely if ever used.

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Flushing the hull

Control the roll using both hands keeping the ama vertical to allow the water to flush.

Retrive or gain control of the paddle. Swim under the upturned hull reach over, grab i'ato with one hand, cockpit with the other and roll back over (cushion impact of ama). If you assume there's lots of water within the hull, you can hold the hull on its side and encourage the water to flush out either by allowing swell coming from behind you to lift the hull upward or by using your arms in pushing upwards.

Control the roll using both hands protecting ama impact.

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If you've lots of bailing to do, you can secure the paddle to the i'ato using spare rubber before you climb in, to keep it out of the way.

Securing the paddle

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Bailing after recovery

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V1 - A Paddler's Guide V1 - OC1 Leleuvia Island Fiji - similar craft, but worlds apart.

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12 Sciatic Nerve Compression and other Discomforts

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If there's one commonality shared by some V1 and OC1 paddlers it's pain and numbness radiating from the left buttock, along the hamstring (seemingly) into the back of the knee and on occasion resulting in pins and needles or even a numb left foot. In some cases it's just sheer pain in the butt. The culprit in all of this, is the sciatic nerve.

The causes of the onset of this pain are simple enough to understand, the solution on the other hand is a complex issue, but attacking the problem in a number of ways can often bring about a positive result. In some cases, genetic deviations between us, result in some of us being more prone to this occurrence than others.

While the problem is common to kayakers, some surf ski paddlers and other forms of canoeing, the problem is absolutely made more prevalent in OC1 and to a lesser extent, V1 paddling, on account of paddlers applying undue weight to the left buttock cheek in attempting to stabilise the ama, resulting in greater pressure in this area - and this is only part of the problem.

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The sciatic nerve The sciatic nerve is the longest, thickest nerve in the human body, measuring just under 1" (2.54 cm) in width, comparative to the diameter of a finger.

Compression at the L4 lumbar region can result in pain radiating from the lower back to the knee.

Compression of sciatic nerve (S1) can result in pain radiating down to the foot. Permanent damage to the sciatic nerve can result in a weakening of the knee.

It runs from the lower spine through the pelvic area and down through the hip and back of the leg. It's the major nerve supplier to the legs and it branches out to provide movement and feeling to the hip, thigh, knee, calf, ankle, foot and toes.

In spite of its length and size, it behaves like all other nerves, transmitting signals to and from the muscles and the brain. All movement and feeling in the legs and feet are dependent on the proper function of this nerve and its branches.

When the nerve becomes inflamed, pinched, or injured, the symptoms are known as sciatica. A troublesome sciatic nerve resulting in sciatica, can cause acute pain anywhere from the lower back and hips to the feet and toes.

Sometimes, it can become pressed or crushed because of a herniated disc in the lower spine a symptom some paddlers have suffered.

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A by-product of paddling seated Tightening of the hamstrings is a common ailment as a result of many years of paddling. Tight hamstrings don’t directly cause 'pins 'n needles' and numbness, this is more associated with nerve or sometimes blood vessel issues.

The position in which the V1 paddler paddles, replicates a similar test for sensitivity of the sciatic nerve, which in itself is an indication of just how bad this inescapable posture is.

Paddling seated, forces the tailbone down onto the sciatic nerve and prolonged sitting can result in pinching of the nerves. This can result in a sharp pain starting deep in the rear that often travels down the leg. Continuous tensioning of the nerve, can lead to irritation and nerve pain anywhere along the course of the nerve and compression is certainly one of a number of contributors.

The canoe paddlers 'slouch' Tight gluteal, hamstring and calf muscles will serve to 'pull you down' into a slumped position and ultimately a tensioning of the sciatic nerves in both legs.

This 'slump' is common to many paddlers, especially those who may have paddled for many years and perhaps avoided any remedial stretching of the hamstrings and calf muscles.

This can lead to long term nerve tightness in the sciatic nerves and its branches. When you cannot engage the legs and exercise leg drive so as to push with the opposing foot as you rotate your trunk, this encourages leg tension in the hamstrings in particular.

Enlargement of the upper torso and over-development of certain muscle groups especially the latissimus dorsi all contribute to added upper body weight and disproportionate levels of strength between the upper and lower body. These factors alone can make a paddler feel 'top-heavy' and slumping becomes a characteristic way to carry oneself.

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Horizontal pressures Horizontal pressure can manifest from exerting pressure through the feet, pushing backward, resulting in the lower back resisting this force leading to tension. The same sensitive area in your spine that's pressurised horizontally by your legs pushing, is being pressurised additionally by the combined weight of your torso and thighs, that represents nearly all your body weight.Â

Vertical pressures Vertical pressure, is simply a factor of gravity (weight) acting downward on your buttocks, with minimal weight being taken up by the feet (even less so in an OC1). Even though the seating arrangement permits a great portion of your body weight to be supported by your feet within a V1 than that of an OC1, the biomechanical action of paddling, contributes additional downward pressures, which over time can bring about discomfort.

Horizontal pressure originating from the feet pushing backwards, rotation (torque) and body lean, serve to stress the lower back. Vertical (downward) pressure (gravity) is supported largely by the buttocks, with some weight being taken by the feet. The act of paddling, pulls you downward contributing to vertical pressure and pulls you forward, which you naturally resist from the hip flexor region, by applying pressure to the feet in pushing backward. This region of the body, can be considered the 'gear-box' where torque is transfered from the levers at play into the craft - it is therefore an area of enormous tension.

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The V1 cockpit permits the paddler to switch legs between a leading and a rear and more fully engage the hips in the paddling process, more similar to that of OC6 and V6 paddling. Seat heights and angles may vary, but can often be customised at time of manufacture or retro-fitted.

Seat alterations, gel pads, padded-shorts Gel pads and additional padding will certainly cushion the pressure, though in some cases, you may only gain a few more minutes of comfort before discomfort sets in. Cushioning serves to help spread the load from the 'sweetspot' - the pressure point where you experience pain and from where it radiates, but in time it seems to manifest no matter what for many paddlers.

Canted-seats V1 seats can be customised and a seat that is canted (angled) forward sometimes works. The front edge, being lower than the rear, lessens pressure on the sciatic nerve. Canted seats make perfect sense as they permit the paddler to fall into the stroke in a natural gravitational manner and a greater portion of weight can be transferred to the feet so as the load is spread.

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Seat height relative to feet One of the ways to alter the relationship of vertical and horizontal pressures between the feet and the buttock region is to experiment with seat height, in testing a va'a using a dummy seat which can be height adjusted. Differing body weights and paddling styles, make the problem very individualistic.

Seat distance relative to feet This is one of the easiest and most crucial factors. Gauging just the right amount of distance between your feet / heels and your rear, will determine the spread of load. The act of paddling creates greatest compression to your rearend, which is acting as the drive shaft and gear box all in one - however, the greater part of this force which can be transferred to the feet, the better.

Paddle too short (close to the feet) and there will be increased pressure to feet / heels, but not much compression from paddling as you'll be too bunched-up.

Just the right distance will spread the load a little better and give you the best bio-mechanical advantage while compression from the blade (drive) will be maximised.

Too far away from your feet and you will not be able to paddle with substantial force and though your vertical weight may spread out a little better, this defeats the purpose by being in a poor paddling position. This can be problematic for taller paddlers who are paddling va'a which simply don't have enough space to find the optimum distance. V1 tend not to have this issue, though some V1 forward bulkheads may be too close to the feet for some tall paddlers.

Possible causes of sciatic nerve issues.

Shortened posterior leg (hamstring) Shortened hamstring and calf muscles are common in those who sit all day long for work or even where the legs are bent. Sitting with near outstretched legs when paddling, makes demands of the body counter to what they are familiar with. Therefore hamstring and calf stretches should be part of your daily routine.

Poor pelvis positioning Shortened hamstrings will tend to prevent you from rotating your pelvis. The hamstrings, pulling down on your pelvis, will cause a 'paddlers slouch' so as the lower and upper back become 'rounded' causing the weight bearing down on your rear to be shifted. Try to avoid slouching so as to ensure pressure on your sit-bones, which requires you have bent knees. V1 paddling technique, is more efficient (and comfortable) when seated more upright.

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Pinched sciatic nerve Because the sciatic nerve passes between your 'sit bones', the bones upon which you sit and your hip bone, it is easily compressed by tight tissue in your buttocks, often through the piraformis muscle, an external leg rotator. It is possible to compress the nerve, simply on account of sitting, usually caused by what your sitting on, the degree of pressure being exerted downward, the intensity and power of your strokes, the duration and style of paddling.

Pressure on the back of the thighs This can lead to nerve impingement and cutting off of circulation. Seats which pressure the undersides of the thighs, can be contributors.

Immobility The body simply does not like to be 'immobilised' for lengthy periods, which in itself can lead to circulation issues and a 'pooling' of the blood.

A 'sloppy' left knee causes left cheek pressure Many V1 paddlers, unconsciously paddle with their left knee lolling over to the left as a consequence of wanting to add stability by compression to the ama.

If the inner left knee is permitted to fall toward the ama, this results in greater pressure to the left cheek and compression (drag) of the ama. The best solution, is increased awareness and concentration.

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You can use inner-tube or bungee to prevent the left knee from falling left in training. Keep knees together as this will help you stay centered. Try to consciously weight the right buttock to minimise pressure on your left.

Solutions It has been suggested that a series of nerve gliding / tension exercises can improve the mobility of the sciatic nerves together with hamstring, gluteal and calf lengthening exercises. Yoga-style poses are most effective for this. When you have tight muscles your body will try to cheat and avoid stretching the tight muscles. Yoga poses generally aim to stretch a series of tight muscles rather than isolating one.

Work on increasing flexibility This addresses the problem most directly and helps to condition the body in handling being seated in the va'a and putting out a high work load. Ageing leads to progressive loss of flexibility. As you age, stretching should become increasingly more central to your off-water activities and certainly before strength training, being as paddling is in its own right, a form of strength training. Yoga is one of the best methods.

Emphasis should be on forward bending exercises which stretch the hamstrings. The use of stretch bands are highly recommended. At home avoid sitting around. Better to lie around and while you're at it, do some stretching.

The stretch band is an extremely safe method of stretching the body while offering up some resistance at the same time. Many paddlers use stretch bands within their exercise regime.

Typically, shortened, tight muscles benefit from this form of stretching.

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Massage Massage of the legs can be of great help. It may hurt, it may make you hysterical with laughter as the tension is released. Seek out massage therapists trained in myofascial release (MYR) of some type, a process which involves assisting the muscle and fascia connective tissue to lengthen.

Stand up paddle boarding cross-training One of the most useful cross-training sports a V1 paddler can partake in, is stand up paddling boarding (SUP). Years of sitting and paddling, will ensure your hamstrings have shortened and your hip flexors will be as tight as a drum.

Indeed, your entire lower-torso will be in a near state of atrophy if you have not invested time on your legs. SUP will force you to use all of your stabiliser muscle groups and ensure engagement of the hips during the power phase. The legs will be under a good deal of tension, so hamstring and calf stretches will

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still need to be done.

Switching the ama to the right Granted this idea flies in the face of all that we know to be sacred to the sport, however let's not over-react and keep things in perspective. Canoe surfing permits, if not actively requires, ama sides are altered to suit the wave break and for the most part most distance races permit the ama to be on either side there's no specific advantage accepting that some conditions would result in better handling - the issue is more to whether you've practised it. Sprint racing on the other hand often requires the ama to be on the left .

With the ama on the right, the paddler will tend to lessen pressure to the left and favour the right. The sciatic nerve on this side is less affected by pressure and therefore the net result can be one of relief. Mechanical, direct fitment V1 rigging will not permit this.

Lower back pain Ideally, paddling should include torso rotation initiated from the hips and therefore pull and drive from the hips. This requires a slight lean forward which when combined with repetitive rotation puts strain on the lower back as it must support the body even while rotating. Even seasoned paddlers may suffer from lower back pain. The solution again, predominantly rests with off-water stretching and flexibility exercises.

Piriformis syndrome Piriformis syndrome is an uncommon neuromuscular disorder. The piriformis muscle is a flat, band-like muscle located in the buttocks near the top of the hip joint. This muscle is important in lower body movement because it stabilises the hip joint and lifts and rotates the thigh away from the body. This enables us to walk, shift our weight from one foot to another and maintain balance. It is also used in sports that involve lifting and rotating the thighs; in short, almost every motion of the hips and legs.

The condition occurs when the piriformis muscle irritates the sciatic nerve, causing pain in the buttocks and referral pain (sciatica) along the course of the sciatic nerve which goes down the back of the thigh and / or into the lower back. A deep pain in the buttocks can result, made worse by sitting, climbing stairs, or performing squats.

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toward the ceiling.

Anatomically, the piriformis muscle lies deep within the gluteal muscles. It originates from the sacral spine and attaches to the greater trochanter of the femur, which is the big, bony bump on the outside top of the thigh.

The sciatic nerve usually passes underneath the piriformis muscle, but in approximately 15% of the population, it travels through the muscle. Acute or chronic injury, causes swelling of the muscle and irritates the sciatic nerve, resulting in sciatica.

Patients with the course of the nerve running through the muscle are particularly predisposed to this condition.

Some of the other causes of sciatica include disease in the lumbar spine (e.g. disc herniation), chronic hamstring tendinitis and fibrous adhesions of other muscles around the sciatic nerve.

Once properly diagnosed, treatment is undertaken in a stepwise approach.

Initially, progressive piriformis stretching is employed, starting with 5 seconds of sustained stretch and gradually working up to 60 seconds. This is repeated several times throughout the day. This stretching can be combined with physical therapy modalities such as ultrasound. If these fail, then injections of a corticosteroid into the piriformis muscle may be tried. Finally, surgical exploration may be undertaken as a last resort.

A good sports medicine physician with experience in caring for athletes with the piriformis syndrome can help direct appropriate management. With proper diagnosis and treatment, there is no reason for this syndrome to be dreaded.

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