Boulder Scotland 3rd edition SAMPLE by Stone Country

A Stone Country Bouldering Guide

Areas covered: ● ● ● ● ● ●

Dumfries & Galloway Glasgow & Clydeside Lothian, Borders & Fife Argyll & The Islands The Central Highlands Perthshire, Kinross & Angus

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Lochaber & Glen Coe Aberdeenshire Speyside & Moray The Northern Highlands Western Isles & The Hebrides Northern Isles

BOULDER SCOTLAND

This gazetteer represents the best of Scottish bouldering. Geographically comprehensive, it surveys over 150 classic and new venues and features the top problems across the grades in each area. Loaded with essential ‘bloc notes’, approach maps, detailed topos, and feature photography, it provides the travelling boulderer with the keys to help unlock the finest bouldering amongst Scotland’s geologically stunning landscapes.

A Stone Country Bouldering Guide

UK £19.99 www.stonecountry.co.uk

BOULDER

SCOTLAND 3rd Edition

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“Innumerable rock-climbing problems, on almost every geological formation, abound.” Harold Raeburn, Mountaineering Art, 1920

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~ | ~ } 61 Sinclair Drive, Glasgow, G42 9PU, Scotland

ISBN 9780992887612 Third edition Copyright © Stone Country Press Ltd. 2017 The moral right of Stone Country and its associated editors to be identified as the authors of this work has been asserted by them in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Design by Stone Country

www.stonecountry.co.uk

} | z ~ The authors and publishers of this guide accept no responsibility for accident or injury incurred while using the guide. Remember, bouldering is an un-roped climbing activity and requires care and attention at all times. The decision to climb is your own responsibility – be careful and look after each other.

Map

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Contents

CONTENTS Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ

Map & Contents Bloc Notes Grades & Notation Geology History

6 9 11 12 14

DUMFRIES & GALLOWAY 16 Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ

The Thirlstane Criffel Blocs Clifton Blocs Sandyhills Dalbeattie Galloway Hills Monreith Garheugh Larbrax Ayrshire Girvan & Lendalfoot Dunure Mauchline Gorge Dalry Lynn Glen

GLASGOW & CLYDESIDE Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ

Dumbarton Rock Craigmore Craigmaddie Lennoxtown Campsie Blocs Whangie Fintry Court Knowe Cochno Stones Cuningar Loop Windyhill Quarry Craig Minnan Clochodrick Stone

18 20 22 23 24 26 28 30 32 33 34 36 38 39 40 44 50 52 54 55 56 58 59 60 62 64 65 66

LOTHIAN, BORDERS, FIFE 68 Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ

Edinburgh & East Coast Salisbury Crags Agassiz Rock Siccar Point Edinburgh Outliers Fife

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ

Perthshire & Kinross Glen Lednock Dunkeld Weem Stirlingshire St Brides Wall Ben Ledi

70 72 74 76 78 80 84 86 88 92 94 96 98 100

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Wolfcrag Cambusbarron Glen Ogle Loch Katrine Stronachlachlar Achray Blocs Trossachs Outliers Crianlarich Glen Clova

ARGYLL Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ

Arrochar Glen Croe Kennedy Boulder Coilessan Narnain Blocs Glen Loin Arrochar Outliers Rest & Be Thankful Loch Lomond Loch Sloy Pulpit Rocks Ardlui Loch Lomond East Cowal & Bute

ARGYLL ISLANDS Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ

Kintyre & Knapdale Islay, Jura & Colonsay Arran The Mushroom Corrie Boulders Coire nan Ceum Glen Rosa Arran Outliers Mull Loch Buie Fionnphort & Erraid Mull Outliers

LOCHABER

102 104 106 108 110 112 113 114 116 118 120 122 126 128 130 132 134 136 138 142 144 146 148 150 152 154 156 158 160 162 164 166 168 170 172 174 176

Rum

ABERDEENSHIRE Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ

Portlethen Downies Newtonhill Muchalls Shore Findon/Pow Kebbuck Luath Stones Craig Corn Arn Aberdeen Outliers Rosehearty

SPEYSIDE & MORAY Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ

Aviemore Laggan Strathconon Duntelchaig Ruthven Boulder Brin Rock Farr Bloc Tom Riach Kessock Bridge Cummingston Primrose Bay Cullen Caves

Glen Coe The Lost Valley Glen Nevis Cameron Stones Pinnacle Ridge Sky Pilot Whale Blocs Pine Alps Blar Ban & Gorge Glen Tarbert Ardnamurchan Morar Arisaig Cave Loch Morar Portnaluchaig

210 212 214 216 218 219 220 222 223 224 226 228 230 232 234 236 238 240 242 244 246 248 250 252

NORTHERN HIGHLANDS 254 Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ Ɣ

Inchbae Torridon Applecross Gairloch Rhue Ardmair Reiff in the Woods Reiff The Far North Sheigra Rhiconich & North

256 258 266 272 274 276 280 282 284 286 288

178 WESTERN ISLES

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180 182 184 188 190 192 194 196 198 200 202 204 206 208 209

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Skye, Coire Lagan Skye, Carn Liath Raasay

OUTER HEBRIDES Ɣ

Lewis, Harris & Barra

NORTHERN ISLES

290 292 296 298 300 302 304

Shetland

304

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Feature Venues Index of Venues A-Z

308 320

Bloc Notes

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Bloc Notes

{ | ~ This is the 3rd edition of the original ‘Stone Country’ guide to bouldering in Scotland, first published in 2005. The point of that guide was to showcase the relatively undocumented wealth of bouldering in Scotland at the time and to express the native spirit of adventure. The second edition, published in 2008, continued to represent the profusion of bouldering opportunity as indoor walls proliferated and technical standards jumped accordingly. Scotland has now become as major a ‘bloc’ destination, in terms of adventure and choice, as any other European country. We have world class problems up to Font 8b+ and a variety of geology and styles to suit all types. It became apparent a new general edition was required, just as discreet area guides are becoming more necessary, such as Torridon Bouldering: Welcome to the Jumble (Betts & Taylor, Ullapool Rock, 2013) and Dumby Bloc (Stone Country Press). This new edition is an updated gazetteer to the current venues, doubling the previous count at least, though the nature of Scotland’s geology means there is plenty left for future generations. This guide is again simply a tribute to the ‘community of the realm’ that is Scottish bouldering, as much as to its landscapes, people and continuing philosophy of exploration. We hope you find a little bit of that adventurous spirit amidst our vast stone landscapes.

4 You can arrange accommodation in advance: booking campsites, B&B’s, or hotels, though it’s easier to be flexible if you are camping. Wild camping is allowed as long as you are discreet and of course ‘leave no trace’. Campsites are frequent on the west coast, less so in the interior, though the major tourist towns have good camping: Aviemore, Ullapool, Fort William, Arisaig. Most of the major towns have cheap accommodation in hostels, with trains and buses to major venues (such as Dumbarton Rock). Like our Scandinavian neighbours, Scotland now has an enlightened attitude to freedom of access, thanks to the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003. You are free to access and explore most areas, but this comes with a responsibility to be sensitive to others whose livelihood depends on the land. It’s your right to access land but if challenged be polite and explain your bouldering rights patiently. If facing access problems contact a Local Council Access representative through www.outdooraccessscotland.com or talk to Mountaineering Scotland www.mountaineering.scot During stalking time, please use the hill-phone facilities to check for activity. Also, please take note of bird bans and do not disturb the flora and fauna. If you come across a nesting bird, move on, there’s plenty of bouldering elsewhere. Also, car-parking can be limited, so always be considerate or park further away and walk. It’s always polite just to ask private landowners or farmers where it’s best to park . . . they’re often more helpful than you think.

If you are visiting Scotland from outside the UK, you’ll likely be flying in to one of the major airports: Glasgow, Edinburgh, or Aberdeen. It is almost Telephone or text 999 to access all emergency essential to have a car once you are in the country, services. Everyone should arrange travel and health as hitch-hiking is slow on main roads (okay in the insurance before coming to Scotland, though the UK rural areas), and the trains and buses can be does have a National Health Service and currently expensive and don’t go close to the remoter will treat anyone in an emergency. Bouldering can bouldering areas. Your best bet is to hire a car from be as dangerous as any other climbing activity and the airport. If you are driving in Scotland, then the accidents do happen (you don’t have ropes, after all). country is well served with quiet roads, with only The culture in Scotland is to accept you are motorways round the cities being slow in rush hours. responsible for your own welfare and access. It is wise The country roads can be slow, however, due to to take bouldering mats and friends who know the tourist traffic and single-track roads (especially on art of ‘spotting’ and always check your landings and the islands), so road courtesy is essential. The islands descent routes. Scotland has many remote areas are well-served by Calmac ferries (and other where mobiles won’t get a signal, so think twice companies) which are less frequent in the winter about highball problems and bad landings . . . you (October-March). Remember, bad weather is may be a long way from help with a sprained ankle frequent in Scotland and high winds often mean or worse. This is especially true on the islands. cancelled ferries, so be flexible and leave a spare day or two around your itinerary if you are visiting the islands. There are plenty of tourist information offices in Scotland and you’ll rarely be lost as locals are very friendly and helpful. Wifi coverage can be found in Scotland has a rich variety of food and drink, with towns and cafes, but in the remoter areas Wifi and many areas using local produce. Beer & whisky has a phone signals can be lost altogether, so bear this in strong following everywhere and you’re never far mind if you are travelling, especially alone.

Bloc Notes

from a pub, though beware, many remoter hotels and pubs stop serving food after 8pm, and shops in rural areas often operate shorter opening hours than those in the cities, so make sure you always carry some supplies. Shops are open most days from 8am to 5pm (aside from Sundays in some rural areas) and many rural post offices will have supplies too.

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6 Scotland is notorious for changeable weather. One day can be sunny and crisp, the next foul and ‘dreich’ (a Scots word created more for the feeling induced by interminable drizzle). Though you should always be (emotionally) prepared to be rained off you can usually find steep bouldering somewhere that can stay dry in the rain (at venues such as Dumbarton, Cullen Caves, Ardmair, Arisaig Caves). The summer (June, July, August) is a poor time to boulder due to humidity, heat, rampant vegetation and of course insects, so coastal venues (Garheugh, Thirlstane, Portlethen, Sheigra) and the high corries (Arran, Cairngorms, Applecross) are best. Dry spells during high pressure weather in autumn, winter and spring provide cool dry conditions perfect for bouldering. Careful selection with all these factors in mind is necessary, so keep your plans as flexible as possible as you may need to move around. The weather can be perfect in Aberdeen one day, for example, yet be downright biblical on the west coast. The best weather is usually on the east and north-east coasts in the rain shadow of the main mountain ranges. If you are staying in the major towns and cities, climbing walls are listed opposite, should you be unfortunate with the weather.

The Scottish midge (Culicoides impunctatus) is Scotland’s bane in the summer months and leads to biting swarms at dawn and dusk (or all day), though it is more infuriating than dangerous. There are various insect repellants but most agree they are futile against ‘the midge’. Sheep and deer ticks, however, are common in vegetation in the summer and can go unnoticed as they embed painlessly in the skin before becoming itchy a day or so later. They can carry Lyme disease which is a debilitating flu-like disease, often diagnosed by a ‘dartboard’ red rash round a bite. If you do find a tick, remove it with a tick-tool or pinch and twist with fingernails or tweezers, being careful not to leave the head embedded. If you do get an infected bite, go to your doctor for antibiotics. There are no poisonous animals in Scotland aside from the Adder, a dark, diamond-patterned snake which is rare and shy. However, it does love sunny boulder-fields (such as the granite blocs on Arran), so please scout under boulders where they may be resting.

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Grades & Notation

¨ © This guide uses the standard European ‘Fontainebleau’ grading system, mainly due to its familiarity and its wide range of grades to express difficulty (which also just means controversy). No system is perfect, and be prepared to find a problem easier or harder than the grade suggested – this is due to lack of repeats, your reach, conditions on the day, your personal fitness, author subjectivity, and dozens of other factors (sheer outrageousness, sandbagging etc.). We have tried to keep the grades fair to Fontainebleau standards and have taken note of repeat ascensionists’ opinions. In Scotland, many problems will have only had one ascent, so suggested grades should not be taken as set in stone.

|¢ £ ¤ ¢¢© If you are rained off, often a likely possibility in Scotland, most of the major towns and cities have bouldering walls worth a visit. Here are the main ones: GLASGOW: The Climbing Academy (TCA) – Scotland’s largest bouldering wall with excellent facilities. 124 Portman Street. 0141 429 6331. The Glasgow Climbing Centre at Ibrox, 534 Paisley Road West, also has a good bouldering basement. 0141 427 9550. EDINBURGH: Alien Rock 1 & 2 – down at the port of Leith, this lead wall also has a bouldering centre (Alien 2). 8 Pier Place, Newhaven. 0131 552 7211. DUNDEE: A Vertical World – Tayside’s biggest wall and indoor bouldering centre. 7 Blinshall St, Dundee. 01382 201 901. ABERDEEN: Transition Extreme – Aberdeen’s biggest lead wall and indoor bouldering centre. 7 Links Road, near the Esplanade. 01224 626 279. GLENCOE: The Ice Factor – new and expanded bouldering wall at The Powerhouse, Kinlochleven, 11km from Glencoe. 01855 831 100. FORT WILLIAM: 3 Wise Monkeys – new climbing at centre at Fassifern road, Fort William. 01397 600 200.

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Contractions used in this guide include: SS (a Sitting Start); CS (a Crouching Start); RH (Right Hand); LH (Left Hand) etc. The topo lines have a solid start circle if the problem is a sit start and a transparent circle if a standing start. The topo numbers correspond to the text numbers and coloured lines are just for differentiation. Brief ascent notes will be found in the textual descriptions to help define the problem, but these are brief enough not to ruin the secrets of the problem. An exclamation mark after a grade e.g. 7a ! means the problem is highball, so take care and consider your landings and descents.

Geology

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All climbers are natural born geologists. Geology is microscopically important to the boulderer, as it’s the very stuff we cling to. We attend to the smallest of dimples and creases with careful cleaning and forensic attention, and we fret over the finest details of atmospheric conditions. ‘Perfect conditions’ refers to all geological and atmospheric realms in obscure and magical conjunction. Scotland has a varied and composite geology. The option of choosing rock specific for conditions is one of the bonuses of bouldering here. Take your pick from a menu of sandstone, gritstone, limestone, granite, schist, conglomerate, quartzite, gabbro, basalt, dolerite, greywacke, gneiss – all have unique characteristics which inform the boulderer’s technique and overall experience. The landscape in Scotland is also dramatic due to the mix of glaciation, erosion and geology, so wherever you decide to explore it is likely to be spectacular and unique. In Scottish bouldering the geology and landscape both inform the character of the climbing. Described here are some of the main geologies you’ll find across Scotland. ¤ ©© Amongst the oldest rocks on the planet, Lewisian Gneiss was part of an ancient Pangaea continent where mountains were ground down to grains by erosion, repacked, metamorphosed and built into mountains again, then to be eroded again… this endless pattern is apparent in the crushed wavy swirls of geologies found within this rough and primal rock. It outcrops typically in the far northwest and in the Outer Hebrides. Venues such as Harris, Lewis, and Sheigra are typical of this multi-coloured and immaculate rock. A variety of gneiss (often called Strathnairn Granite) can be bouldered on around Inverness at the Ruthven Boulder, Farr, Duntelchaig and Brin. ¥¨¨ ¥¤ ¤ ¤ ©ª¥¤ If you like gritstone-style bouldering, try the Torridonian sandstone of the northwest venues – it is a red pebbled sandstone that behaves just like some classic gritstone venues (some say it’s even better) and you’re more than likely to find yourself in complete solitude amongst some stunning rocks. This red paradise is part of a western maritime mountain range running from Lochcarron in the south to Lochinver in the north. Formed from a delta of river sediment in drier Precambrian eons (no fossil life), it was uplifted and eroded into ‘broken-tooth’ peaks and pyramids such as Liathach, An Teallach, and Stac Pollaidh, from which crags and boulders descend in convenient tiers to the roadsides. The best venues for bouldering on this rock are to be found in Applecross, Torridon, Gairloch, Ullapool and on the road to Reiff.

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Geology

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©ª The definitive rock of the Moine era of mountain building (490 to 390 million years ago), created during the period known grandly as the ‘Caledonian Orogeny’, this geology is a product of ancient layered rock metamorphosed into often delightful swirled textures. The boulders are the eroded litter of this violent geological period of folding, faulting and crushing. The best examples of schist bouldering can be found in Glen Nevis, on the coasts at Aberdeen, and throughout the Central Highlands and Argyll, where it is characterised by a quartzy Mica Schist, such as the venues at Arrochar, Glen Ogle, Ben Ledi, and around Loch Lomond. It often forms classic ‘sloper’ problems, as well as fierce ‘crimp’ test pieces, or both at once in the same problem. ¤ ©ª¥¤ The ‘younger’ sandstones formed in the Triassic and Jurassic eras (the fossil ‘dinosaur’ ages), between 250 and 135 million years ago, provide some of the best textures for bouldering - rounded, scooped pockets, immaculate slopers and compact but high-friction rock. When exposed and eroded by sea and wind it creates terrific venues, such as Cummingston and Primrose Bay in the north-east, and the Thirlstane near Dumfries. The older red sandstones are often too soft for decent bouldering, but the mortared conglomerates provide some good and unusual bouldering at venues such as Arran (Lochranza coast), Tom Riach and Kessock Bridge (Inverness). Other types of ‘sandstone’ are the sedimentary rocks formed by underwater mudslides, which formed the often slabby ‘Greywacke’ boulders at coastal venues such as Garheugh in Dumfries and Galloway. ¥¢ ¤ ¥ ¡© The volcanic period refers to the most recent 360 million years of Earth’s mind-numbingly long history from the Carboniferous through to the Cretaceous and Tertiary periods. It is also the most volatile time when most of the older geologies were swarmed by volcanoes and lava flows, creating the distinct maritime mountains on Arran, Mull, Skye, Ardnamurchan, Rum, and the swollen massif that is The Cairngorms. The Carboniferous volcanic period also formed the character of the Central Belt (Dumbarton Rock and Edinburgh’s Salisbury Crags etc.). Basalts are common in the Central Belt and form a broken, shattered structure (such as the Whangie) or a more compact ‘whinstone’ such as the angular geology found at Dumbarton Rock. The west coast islands have rough pink granite such as that found on Arran and the Ross of Mull, as well as the popular but painful ‘velcro rock’ that is Gabbro, found throughout Mull, Ardnamurchan and on Skye. The Cairngorms exhibit a finer pink granite such as the Shelterstone Blocs and the Link boulder near Aviemore.

History

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History

z {¨ ©ª¥¨ ¢ ¨©¦ ª ¬ Our modern era is well-documented and bouldering hardly occurs without its instant archiving online via topos, videos and photography, but what would we have left if the digital archives were all wiped? A strong sense of community, a feeling of belonging, a sense of identity with the stone? Scotland has always had bouldering and many have gone before us, though it has only in the last few decades created its own space and philosophy, as opposed to the idea of bouldering as training for or diversion from other climbing. Bouldering is an intimate and specific art combining athleticism, technique and the specific textures of geology, so it is no wonder it has specialised out of its mother-lode of mountaineering into its own landscapes of exploration. Scotland is a vast and varied playground for this specialism. It’s hard to say when bouldering in Scotland really began. A good marker date is 1897, when the Scottish Mountaineering Club published their journal, in which a tradition of 19th century bouldering is suggested by the inclusion of an article by T. Fraser S. Campbell called ‘On Boulders’. It is an early mountaineering satire of those engaged in bouldering as a kind of mini-golf, like one ‘who putts a ball along his drawing-room floor into a dog-collar, or essays to loft it into his wife’s easy chair’. The journal has some sketches of early ascents of the Corrie boulders on Arran, which must have been popular, as the sketches were in the words of the author ‘taken from photographs’. T.F.S. Campbell also notes some early blocs in this journal: ‘On the side of Loch Eck there is a huge rock cleft in two, the ascent of which, after several ineffectual attempts, was at last achieved by Lester’. Who was this Lester and what is the stone? Also noted is the bouldering at Loch Sloy, before the dam was built in 1945: ‘In Glen Inveruglas there is a similar though smaller rock, which affords a most interesting climb.’ This refers most likely to the Sloy boulders, possibly the Boot Crack boulder which is cleft in two. In 1920 Ruth Raeburn was commissioned to write a piece in her brother Harold’s instructional book – ‘Mountaineering Art’ – called ‘Climbing for the Novice’ and she introduces us to the delights of Scottish bouldering: ‘Bouldering … has a wonderful effect in improving the balance and in teaching the correct attitudes to assume, and efforts to make, on various kinds of holds. On a single fifteen foot boulder one may find a series of climbs containing all the characteristic difficulties one will encounter in a whole day’s climb on a great rock-peak.’ The photograph of Raeburn climbing in Holyrood Park in Edinburgh (opposite) shows bouldering was a mentality for focusing on technique, foot placement and a head for heights without ropes. In the Arrochar Alps the Creagh Dhu club members of the 50s and 60s, whilst ‘howffing’ at the Narnain Boulders on the walk-in to The Cobbler, diverted time with some sport on a particular problem from the prodigious talents of John Cunningham – The Crucifix – which is still a tricky problem for the modern boulderer. Bouldering after WW2, whilst always a challenge, was still a game and mostly considered diversionary. Robin Smith was fond of a spot of bouldering to hone his talents – on Arran in May 1957, after climbing on the main faces, he dashed up the Rosetta Stone slab just for the hell of it, suggesting the wealth of slabby wobbling elsewhere on the stones of Arran. On the northern, chaotically-rocky side of Ben Ledi, the Ochils Mountaineering Club used the pinnacles and large boulders for sport from the 1940s onwards, producing a guide to the craglets and boulders in 1949, edited by Tam Low. It is an interesting tale of generations christening the boulders each with their own enthusiasm, though the OMC do quote a climbing cobbler from Falkirk called Ferguson who climbed here in the 1940s and revealed to club members the ‘Cottage Boulder’ and other featured rocks. Bouldering grew in prominence as the 20th Century played out in tandem with athletic training. A more mature bouldering philosophy arrived from the US (John Gill in the 60s and a brasher ‘gung-ho’ 70s muscle-generation) and also from Fontainebleau (the quieter, but steelier European philosophy of Godoffe and Montchaussé). The arrival of PAs (Pierre Allain-designed rubber-soled boots) and similar rock shoes allowed technical standards to jump and venues around Scotland responded in kind with renowned boulder problems being given honorary names, such as the classic 60s and 70s problems at Dumbarton Rock: ‘Bloody Nigh Impossible’, ‘The Whip’, ‘Blue Meanie’ etc. The 80s and 90s saw the classic ‘new’ bouldering lines being laid down across the country, such as Andy Gallagher’s 1994 Consolidated traverse (7b+) at Dumbarton and Malcolm Smith’s The Shield (7b+), at the same venue in the same year, whilst round the country new venues were being explored, such as Torridon (Malc’s Arête, 7b, Malcolm Smith, 1997) and Glen Nevis (Catch 22, 7c, Dave Cuthbertson, 2000). The addictive game of bouldering began to spread inexorably and now a quick Google search will reveal a busy hive of activity across the country echoing the explorative enthusiasm for bouldering in most countries across the globe. Bouldering in Scotland is certainly an adventurous mix of the known and unknown; of remoteness and solitude; of vast scale and microcosm; and of simple fun and exploration. Thankfully, the great Scottish landscape keeps it all in perspective.

Dumfries & Galloway

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Quiet backwater or hardcore territory? Both, in fact. Scotland’s south-western coast of Dumfries & Galloway (winding west and north to Ayrshire) has some fine bouldering stones tucked away in sleepy coves and on the flanks of rounded granite hills. Some of Scotland’s most dedicated boulderers have spent days here tending to painfully hard sequences of rock geometry. In the late 90s Paul Savage upped the bar by climbing such lines as the eliminate My Evil Twin (8a) at Sandyhills, Zillion Dollar Sadist (8a+) at Clifton, as well as Chinese Democracy (8a) and Shrinking Violet SS (7c+) at The Thirlstane, all amongst the the most progressive problems in Scotland at the time. The Thirlstane (/18 ) : a sea-drilled cave in an outcrop of slopey sandstone Criffel (/20 ) : granite litter, mostly small stones, good for kids Clifton Crag (/22 ) : some hard test-piece granite problems in crag scree Sandyhills (/23 ) : tidal coves and caves Dalbeattie (/24 ) : granite stones on the bikers’ trails Galloway Hills (/26 ) : remote granite boulders in picturesque territory Monreith (/28 ) : wave-washed tidal greywacke Garheugh Port (/30 ) : great slab problems and rough greywacke, idyllic Larbrax (/32 ) : tidal coves and maze-like rock corridors Lendalfoot (/34 ) : pitstop beach bouldering on tidal pinnacles Dunure (/36 ) : coastal caves near Ayr Mauchline Gorge (/38 ) : old red sandstone in a gorge Dalry (/39 ) :small sandstone gorge venue

Æ: Dumfries, Castle Douglas, Newtonstewart, Stranraer, Ayr. 4: Coastal wild camping. Pay: Southerness, Sandyhills, Portpatrick, Dunure. Y: A75 bus/car. Train: Dumfries only, or Glasgow-Ayr-Stranraer.

Dumfries & Galloway

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Dumfries & Galloway

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BLOC NOTES >>> Ambience: climbing inside a rock tube Rock: dimpled, slopey, pocketed sandstone Season: drying summer breeze, low tide Gear: waterproof mats, chalky rags Grades: over 40 problems from 2 to 8a Sat Nav: DG2 8BG to Grid NX 991 567 This unusual rock feature lies on a pleasant shell beach west of Dumfries at Southerness. It is a hard sandstone outcrop with a tidal borehole right through its core. There are many link-up problems and variations, and the climbing can be eliminate in the higher grades, so search online for videos. The cave itself is mostly tidal, so check for low tides online via the BBC: Port No. 424 ‘Hestan Islet’. A ‘good drying day’ is essential to allow holds to dry sufficiently. ACCESS >>> Take the A710 west from Dumfries, pass south through New Abbey, under the big mound of Criffel and through the village of Kirkbean. Shortly after is a left turn seawards, signposted to the resort of Southerness. Take the first left shortly after a farm and carry on for 1km to a sharp left bend. Shortly after this, take a right turn at the ‘Arbigland’ sign down to Powillimont farm, and on to the terribly pot-holed parking by the shore (watch your exhaust). The Thirlstane is a short walk eastwards along the shingle beach. Good for picnics and family visits. SECTORS >>> On the beach before the crag is a Warm-Up Wall. Beyond is the Thirlstane, arching over the hole to the Main Wall. Looking seaward through the hole from the shore: the steep left (east) wall is Craig’s Wall, opposite this is the Cave Wall West. Walking deeper into the cave through the arch, the undercut left roof is the East Roof. Opposite this on the west is the leaning scooped roof West Roof.

TOP PROBLEMS >>> 1. Yellow Slab Warm-Up Wall 4 Climb the main slab directly and then over the roof above. 2. The Pocket Problem Warm-Up Wall 5 Climb the wee left wall with the use of both pockets. 3. Left Arête Main Wall 3 Climb this excellent juggy line as high as you wish. 4. The Groove Craig’s Wall 6a SS edges on left as the cave starts, gain flange then groove. 5. Grade Obsessed Craig’s Wall 7a SS just left of 4. Travel right of the big overlap. 6. Smack Heid Craig’s Wall 6c Elim. up the blunt arête on right edge of 4. Angled slopers. 7. Shrinking Violet Craig’s Wall 7c+ SS on left to crimps into Craig’s Wall (direct finish). 8. Craig’s Wall Craig’s Wall 7b LH gaston, RH undercut to good holds in the right corner. SS from slot is 7b+. (Direct finish stand 7b+, or 7c SS). 9. The Niche Cave Wall West 6a The dark niche/pod, tricky to get into. Jump off at jugs. 10. Red Roof Scoop Cave Wall West 6c Between niches. Undercut to sloping hold, up right to jugs. 11. The Corner Cave Wall West 4 The first groove in the cave, forming right side of the Red Roof. 12. Endrina East Roof 7a The squeezed roof from slopey holds over lip to tight groove. 13. Insect Kin East Roof 7a Bad Seed to rail under roof, finish up 14. 14. Lateral Thinking East Roof 6b To left of the crack. Pull up on lip, heel, crimps to break. 15. Eazy Roof East Roof 5 The wee vertical crack, on good holds to a break and rock-over. 16. The Bad Seed East Roof 6c+ Just left of ‘heart’ feature. Campus up right to pockets to break. 17. Hardcore Superstar East Roof 7c Mostly footless low traverse from sea entrance, finish up 14. 18. Tied Up and Swallowed West Roof 7c Direct mantel of sloping shelf to RH crimp to break. 19. Jihad West Roof 7a Go left from sloping shelf to pocket, then high reach to break. 20. Nitro West Roof 7a+ As for 19, but no pocket, dyno direct to break from crimps. 21. Bad Sneakers West Roof 6a RH pocket, LH slopey pocket, footless to pocket under break. 22. Chinese Democracy West Roof 8a Far L-R low traverse to finish up 18. Shorter 7b finish up 19.

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BLOC NOTES >>> Ambience: moorland granite circuit Rock: granite, often lichened Season: out of bracken season (June to August) Gear: light mat, stiff brushes Grades: mainly easy grades, many short projects Sat Nav: DG2 8AB to Grid NX 949 587 On the west flanks of Criffel, on the outlying Airdrie Hill, lies a vast granite boulder jumble like a spilt cereal box of wee blocs, thinning out up the heathered dome of Criffel itself. Although many of the boulders ‘shrink’ on approach, it is a great venue in early summer before the bracken obscures the boulders, with its fine outlook over the sun-glittering sands of the Solway estuary. The grades are largely low-grade and the landings grassy. There is scope for endless projects, though the approach can be tiresome. Try not to disturb any adders! ACCESS >>> On the A710, west of the Southerness turn-off. Just east of Caulkerbush is a gatehouse to a forested lodge. Park considerately near the Gatehouse, walk up the forest track (private road to left) and veer right up a track to a locked forestry gate. Take the triple switchback forestry track up right for 20 minutes and fight east through forestry (or go higher up above forestry and track east over a stile). A deer-fence may also need to be climbed if crossing lower. Go east to the reference bloc of the Viewpoint boulder on a small ridge, apparent when you gain a bit of height. SECTORS >>> The tallest boulder on the hill is the Viewpoint Bloc with associated small blocs including The Concrete Wave and Hobo Bloc. Further east is a cluster at the top of the farm track called the Track Blocs and below these are the Outcrop Blocs.

TOP PROBLEMS >>> 1. Viewpoint Wall Viewpoint Bloc 4+ SS at the south wall rail, climb to the apex of the boulder. 2. Magic Eye Viewpoint Bloc 5 Climbs the west overlap onto the slab, directly and without using either arête, surprisingly balancy. 3. Magic Eye Traverse Viewpoint Bloc 6a A linking traverse of the last two problems round the blunt arête. 4. Paul’s Arête Viewpoint Sector 7a 50 m below the Viewpoint boulder is a small boulder with a slopey south arête. Climb this from a sit start. 5. Concrete Wave Wave Bloc 6b/7b Just up and left of the Viewpoint boulder is a remarkable wave-shaped boulder. Sit start the left arête and traverse up and right, which is somewhat easier than the low eliminate, which travels through a hard sloper, slapping right to good finger edges eliminating all good holds on the lip. 6. Hobo Hobo Bloc 6c Further left (west) of the Viewpoint Bloc towards the summit of Airdrie hill, is a bulging cracked boulder. Climb the bulge to a ledge from a sit start and mantle over the top. 7. No Venom Track Bloc 5+ Further east of this small compact area across the jumble lies the Track boulder. Pull on to the crack from a sit start and span across to the right arête. 8. Outcrop Arête Outcrop Blocs 5 Just below the Track boulder is the outcrop area. This climbs the crack problem on the downhill side. 9. Bracken Wall Outcrop Blocs 5 Above and left of the outcrop are two hidden boulders. This climbs the slabby wall facing the Solway. 10. The Cannon Outcrop Blocs 6b Above Bracken Wall is a difficult nose problem. Surmount this from a standing start.

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BLOC NOTES >>> Ambience: blocs and bull-running Rock: granite, often mossy Season: out of bracken season (June to August) Gear: mats for the rocky clusters Grades: mainly short and hard to 8a+ Sat Nav: DG2 8AR to Grid NX 908 571 A jumble of granite boulders which face south-west and provide limited bouldering if you forget your trad rack. The harder lines were opened by Paul Savage and friends in the early 2000s. Some larger boulders lie under the crag amongst a jumble of smaller blocs and provide some very hard problems. The landings are often bad and require good spotters and a mat or two to protect the ankles. Easier problems can be found in the area, but it is best as a winter hardcore venue. ACCESS >>> Clifton crag can be approached via the A710, taking the second turning right after Caulkerbush, signposted Southwick Cemetery. Continue up the single track road for about 2km to Clifton farm. Park carefully just past the farm in a small layby, or possibly near the cemetery if there is room. Just past the farm is a rock stile into a field (public access). Cross left of the buildings to another stile on the right and cross the next field to a gate under the crag. Please donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t disturb livestock in spring and watch out for the bull. There is no need to disturb the farmer to ask for permission, the stiles are there. SECTORS >>> The far left boulder under a tree by a gate is the Â&#x2C6; Gate Bloc with the smaller Â&#x2C6; Study Bloc opposite it. Up and right is the Â&#x2C6; Trauma Bloc. On the far right is the rounded Â&#x2C6; Dyno Bloc at the base of the edge of the field. Above this in the jumble is the long lipped Â&#x2C6; ZDS Bloc.

TOP PROBLEMS >>> 1. Â&#x2C6; Knife Party Gate Bloc 7c Despite the name, this is a very safe problem! Traverse the slopey lip of the gate boulder from the far right to the top left â&#x20AC;&#x201C; best done in cold conditions. 2. Â&#x2C6; Half Knife Gate Bloc 7b Starting halfway along the lip hook and slap up the arĂŞte. 3. Â&#x2C6; Study Break Study Bloc 6b On the small boulder just opposite the Gate boulder. Climb the small overhang direct. 4. Â&#x2C6; Trauma Trauma Bloc 7b+ This lies on the perched boulder up and right in the jumble. The central face has a bottomless arĂŞte and is climbed from beneath to give a hard and worrying test piece. 5. Â&#x2C6; Trauma Direct Trauma Bloc 7c+ 7KH GHVSHUDWH ZDOO GLUHFW MXVW WR WKH OHIW RI 7UDXPD 6. Â&#x2C6; Wall Problem Trauma Bloc 7b The difficult and puzzling short wall on the mezzanine up and behind the Trauma boulder. 7. Â&#x2C6; Paulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dyno Dyno Bloc 6b+ On the big boulder at the bottom of the scree. Climb the overhanging wall via a dyno from flat edges to a jug on the lip, and mantle. 8. Â&#x2C6; Dwarf Cave Traverse Cave Bloc 6b The mini cave left of the Dyno bloc. Sit start at the right of the cave and traverse the roof edge on small crimps and slopers to the far left to turn the corner and top out. 9. Â&#x2C6; Zillion Dollar Sadist ZDS Bloc 8a+ The desperate blank lower lip of the flat-faced boulder in the scree above the Dyno boulder. 10. Â&#x2C6; Slab Project Slab Bloc P The distinctive pointed slab bloc, sitting on the steeper slope on the main crag up and right, has a number of problems which could be done, though matting would be difficult without some patio-building.

Dumfries & Galloway

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BLOC NOTES >>> Ambience: marooned bouldering Rock: greywacke, often red, not grey Season: summer, tidal! Gear: fibre mat for sand Grades: easy to mid-grade Sat Nav: DG5 4PY to Grid NX 891 547

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TOP PROBLEMS >>> 1. Mary’s Massive Mangos Left Cave 6c SS on an undercut on the cave wall (east) and follow crimps and rib to the top pocket. 2. My Evil Twin Right Cave 7a/8a Two versions of the shark-fin arête; follow the roof and up the arête. Eliminating all bridging holds and jugs makes it 8a.

Right Cave 6a+ The lovely beach at Sandyhills Bay has some hidden 3. Ejector Seat caves and blocs on its west headland. Here you can Sit start and blast up the bulge just right of My Evil Twin. perform your own rock tourism – the bays have all 4. Overhanging Wall Right Cave 6b sorts of eliminate problems and short walls, the Climb the overhanging wall on flat rattly holds. Loose. highlight being the cave’s fin of rock, climbed direct from the back without recourse to larger holds nearby 5. Twin Flake Right Cave 5 and sneaky heel jams to give the classic hard problem Start on undercut and climb to the shelf using the twin flakes. of My Evil Twin, climbed by Paul Savage in the early Right Cave 6b 2000s. There has been a recent resurgence of interest 6. The Crack Climb the overhanging crack. in these bouldery bays and Craig Henderson in particular explored the boulders and walls further 7. Flizz Off Right Cave 6b along the shore with many short problems and blocs. Climb the excellent little slab without using the arête. SS 6c. The finish of nearly all problems are jump-offs at jugs. 8. Frauch

Shore Walls

Climb the small seaward slab on edges and undercuts. ACCESS >>> Make sure you check tide tables online and be aware 9. Toothie Ruthie Shore Walls 4+ that the tides move very fast once they start to come Climb the bayed overhanging wall without the arête. in! Park at the car-park for the beach at Sandyhills, usually there is a summer charge. Walk west round 10. Flizz Shore Walls 6a the headland, over a footbridge and through the Front right of bay. Sit start on flat holds and up on pockets. fishing nets/poles at low tide. Continue round a 11. G The Cove 6a couple of sandy coves to the main bay and caves.

SECTORS >>> The Right Cave provides the main bulk of the bouldering, which is split into this main red cave and a shorter Left Cave. There are Shore Walls on the east along the shore on approach, with a nice wall at the back of The Cove. 100m further west is The Needle’s Eye natural arch (with fun easy traverses). Through here and another 10m takes you to Fairytale Cave.

Stand start at the back of a small cove to the right of the main bay, just opposite the nets. Climb the arched wall through the overlap. Low gravel can make it ‘Super G’ at about 6c. 13. Breadcrumbs Fairytale Cave 6c+ Leaning wall right of cave and left of prow/roof feature. Climb left to right on rising crimps into a crack to jump-off jugs.

13. The Witch Fairytale Cave 7b+ Climb the prow to the right of the cave directly to finish at the same point as Breadcrumbs. Dynamic sloper moves.

Dumfries & Galloway

DALBEATTIE BLOC NOTES >>> Ambience: blocs and mountain-biking Rock: hidden granite blocs Season: before the bikers get up Gear: mats and bike-spotters Grades: mainly easy to mid-grade Sat Nav: DG5 4QU to Grid NX 841 592 In the Seven Stanes woods, and on the forested flanks of Cloak hill, just south of Dalbeattie, there are plenty of hidden granite craglets and blocs, underdeveloped and awaiting attention. Described here are some projects and blocs awaiting a little more exploration. The granite is generally solid and very well-featured. If climbing around the mountainbike circuits, please choose a quiet time, maybe outside weekends. ACCESS >>> Gain the parking for the cycle tracks, 2km south on the A710 from Dalbeattie. The blocs are best referenced by the cycle track paths and by the main forestry track heading east into the woods from the parking. Please give way to cyclists. SECTORS >>> The far left boulder under a tree by a gate are the Trailhead Blocs with some short cracked granite walls. About 300m east from here on the main forestry track, look out for post 87 on the taster loop to find the hidden Hard Rock Roof. Following the bike trails you come across the Eye of the Needle Blocs (watch for cyclists) and above the trail further on a hillside are possibilities on the Instigator Walls but landings are iffy here. TOP PROBLEMS >>> 1. Hard Rock Roof Taster Loop 7b 20m left of post 87 on the taster loop of the bike circuit. Find a little roofed bloc above the cycle track. Climb from the left to right and mantle.

Dumfries & Galloway

SCREEL HILL >>> Sat Nav DG7 1SP. NX 784 551. On the A711 south of Dalbeattie, drive west out of the village over the Urr Water bridge, take a sharp left and continue for 7km, to a B-Road (second right after Palnackie) which cuts north (right) to parking at a forestry path to Screel Hill. There are small granite walls on the south and north-east sides of the hilltop. Craig Henderson added a nice leaning wall problem called Happy Days 6a+. Some traverse possibilities. PORT O’ WARREN >>> Sat Nav DG5 4PZ. NX 879 534. 1 km west of Sandyhills, take a B-road south marked Portling. The single track road leads to the sea, but park at the fork in the road then walk south for the last bit to Port O’ Warren bay, following signs for the beach. There is one excellent traverse on the steep wall called 1833 Traverse 6a, plus some short straight-ups. LITTLE KHUMBU >>> Sat Nav DG5 4NP. NX 865 595. Granite walls above the farm of Little Cloak on the western flank of Clawbelly Hill. The area was nicknamed ‘Little Khumbu’ by climbers in the 70s though little bouldering was recorded. Paul Savage did a nice 5+ wall he called Oceans Eleven while exploring when tides were in on his coastal projects. Access via Dalbeattie, take the B793 (just north of the village), head south for 5km and park at forestry under Goat Hill as the road goes uphill (after the left fork of the road). Walk up to the west-facing walls on ‘Ewe Hill’.

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ISLE OF WHITHORN COVES >>> Sat Nav DG8 8LH. NX 482 367 (Main cove). Greywacke tidal bouldering east of the harbour at Isle of Whithorn (the Steam Packet Inn is good for lunch). Access via Newton Stewart, Wigtown and Whithorn. From the village, walk east along the cliff-top paths for 400m to the coves. Unrecorded development. ST NINIAN’S CAVE >>> Sat Nav DG8 8LX. NX 421 360. Possible bouldering projects abound on the coast between St Ninian’s Cave and Burrow Head. Head south of Whithorn on the A746, (at a junction go left, then first right after 1km), follow signs to St Ninian’s Cave parking and a 1km walk to the shore. For St Ninian’s Cave area, head west to the cave (no climbing due to historical carvings). Going east along the clifftop path from the shore leads to many some unexplored coves and bays all the way to Burrow Head. STAIRHAVEN COVE >>> Sat Nav DG8 0JL. NX 208 535. Tidal cove. The little harbour bay of Stairhaven lies a few km south of Glenluce off the A75. From the beach car-park walk east along the foreshore under Fisherman’s Cottage to drop down to a rocky bay. Cut back west along the shore to a long narrow cove, like a narrower Thirlstane.

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BLOC NOTES >>> Ambience: if only there were more of them . . . Rock: rough granite Season: winter, autumn, out-of-bracken season Gear: large mat Grades: mid-grade to 8a project Sat Nav: DG8 7BL to Grid NX 487 409

are other walls and possibilities in the area. Roddy MacKenzie says: ‘A lot of what is up on the hillside is either crumbly or has really bad landings. A site manager who was running a job for us in Stranraer has spent nearly his whole life walking in this area and seems to remember there being further large boulders in the forest . . . ‘

A tremendous lone boulder crying out for more companions. Worth a stop if you are in the area as it is accessible and provides steep granite hauling onto slabby finishes. It was originally climbed by Tim Rankin and is sometimes referred to as ‘The Rankin Bloc’, before further problems by Roddy MacKenzie.