Wildtravel 09/2014 by StStilinski

WILDTRAVEL September 2014 I £3.99

Discover the world’s most amazing wildlife

The ultimate walking safaris

Trip report

Zambia’s swamp lions Meet the big cats that rule the floodplains of Kafue National Park

Langkawi Island We go in search of the elusive flying lemurs living on Malaysia’s oldest mountain

We reveal 10 of the best places to take a walk on the wild side across Africa Take me there

Magical Montenegro Discover the natural wonders of Lake Skadar and Durmitor National Parks

Chilecalling

Don’t miss our essential guide to the wildlife-watching hotspots of South America’s “string bean”

WILDLIFE WEEKEND: SPOTTER’S GUIDE TO ANATOMY OF EAST YORKSHIRE BRITAIN’S DOLPHINS AN ORANGUTAN

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CONTENTS Regulars 12 Wild world We review the latest images from the world of wildlife, from South Africa to Australia, as well as the latest conservation news and wildlifewatching tours

22 Wild UK c Inspiration for wild days out and weekends across the UK, from the Cairngorms in Scotland to Flamborough Head in East Yorkshire

99 The knowledge Our experts explain how to relocate a giraffe and photograph kingfishers, plus we review the latest spotting scopes and interview Nick Janns, author of A wolf called Romeo

114 Column: Confessions of a wildlife traveller

When many endangered species only exist due to intervention, we have to learn to live with the odd radio collar, says Mike Unwin

Departments 07 Editor’s welcome 08 Inbox Our selection of the latest comments, tweets, photos and wildlife stories we’ve received

OUR COST RATINGS EXPLAINED Under £500 £500-£1,500 £1,500-£3,000 £3,000-£5,000 Over £5,000 Nb. The cost rating is based on the total cost for the trip per person, including flights, accommodation, guides and transport

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A tourist on a walking safari enjoys a close encounter with giraffes at Mosi-oaTunya National Park in Zambia

WELCOME Contributors

William Gray Will offers his rundown of the top wildlife experiences in the UK and beyond in September

Sophie Stafford

Walk on the wild side The classic image of an African safari tends to be of a group of camera-touting tourists peering out of the top of a 4WD vehicle in a beautiful natural setting, with either a lion, elephant, rhino or some other, equally-impressive megafauna providing the focus of their attention. It’s undoubtedly somewhere most of us wildlife lovers would like to be. However, just consider how much ‘wilder’ the same image would become if you took the 4WD out of the picture. Today, there are a growing number of tour companies and lodges offering the opportunity to get back to nature and join their expert local guides on a walk in many of the continent’s most famous national parks, conservancies and private game reserves. For those who take part it’s a chance to enjoy the wildlife in hushed reverence, without the sight of a vehicle or the whiff of diesel to detract from the moment. If the thought of setting off for a guided stroll in home territories of the Big 5 has set your heart beating a little faster, then turn to our feature starting on page 56. In our shortlist you’ll find guided walking options across Africa, ranging from Tanzania, Botswana and Namibia, to Zambia, the Gambia and beyond.

COVER IMAGE: © WESTEND61/SUPERSTOCK. ABOVE: © KUMAR SRISKANDAN/ALAMY

Matt Havercroft, Editor

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To contact editorial Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB ; Tel: 01242 211 080 Email: editorial@wildtravelmag.com EDITOR Matt Havercroft DEPUTY EDITOR Sheena Harvey EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Debbie Graham DESIGNER Steve Rayner ARCHANT SPECIALIST MANAGING DIRECTOR Mark Wright; mark.wright@archant.co.uk For customer services Tel: 01242 216 002; Email: sylvie.wheatley@ archant.co.uk, or estelle.iles@archant.co.uk Printing William Gibbons ISSN 2048-2485

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Sophie reports on her close encounters with the lions of Busanga Plains in Zambia

Mark Eveleigh Mark discovers flying monkeys and snakes on Langkawi Island in Malaysia

Jonathan Lewis Pro wildlife photographer Jonathan offers his guide to taking pictures of kingfishers

On the cover...

Cover image: A South American grey fox at Torres del Paine NP, Chile

SEPTEMBER 2014 7

InBox

Send us your thoughts on the magazine, wildlife travel pictures and recommendations, or stories of your own wildlife encounters. The author of our favourite letter, picture and story will receive a brilliant wildlife book

Winning letter About time The news that ABTA, The Travel Association, has released a set of animal welfare guidelines for tour operators (Special report: ABTA Guideline, June 2014) which are now being rolled out through its members to their suppliers is very welcome and none too soon. Let’s just hope they are adhered to. Education has to be the key to enlightening the public about these practices and the cruelty imposed on supposedly wild animals. Tourists put their faith in the hands of tour operators,

and believe their recommendations, so it is important they have the right information. There was one custom that wasn’t mentioned,

though. A few years ago I visited Chitwan National Park in Nepal and embarked on a couple of elephant safaris – as it was the thing to do there. I have to say

they were amazing and allowed us to get close to wildlife, including onehorned rhinoceros, and mugger crocodiles as they swam around the elephants. But now I am ashamed of this. If I had known at the time that these ‘domestic’ elephants had been subjected to cruelty, malnutrition and torture in their past in order to turn them into transport for humans my decision would have been very different. Kristie Tomlinson, via email

Marine rescue

Reader query

I am a paramedic with the Scottish ambulance service. I was flagged down by a member of the public who had just found a baby 2ft long bottlenosed dolphin which had beached itself at Ardrossan on the west coast of Scotland. The police and I took it back into water a little bit deeper, though keeping its blowhole above the water. The SSPCA arrived with a vet. Sadly, a marine specialist to whom we had sent some pictures determined the dolphin was premature and would not survive and instructed the vet to put it to sleep humanely. Will Hendry, via email

I found this beetle in my garden but didn’t know what it was until I looked it up. I think it may be a rare crucifix beetle. Am I right? Dave Bowling, by email

Editor writes: To find out what to do and who to contact if you find a stranded cetacean visit www.wildlifeextra.com/go/world/whale-stranding.html

Spanish fauna I really enjoyed reading your articles on Spanish wildlife in the latest edition of the magazine (Essential Spain, August issue). I found myself taken a little by surprise at how much wildlife inhabits this country, which many will commonly associate only with, as you say, ‘sun and sea’ package holidays. This has certainly given me food for thought; Andalucía immediately intrigued me with its diverse array of wildlife species, two national parks and numerous World Heritage Sites. What’s not to like? Recently I have taken up birdwatching as a hobby, and having read your guide I think visiting this region is a must for me. Normally, persuading my partner to join me on any wildlife expedition is a tough ordeal, given he is a historian and not a wildlife enthusiast. However I am quietly confident the World Heritage Sites will provide enough interest for us to enjoy a ‘wildlife and historic’ holiday together. Keep up the good work Wild Travel! Amy Davidé, via email 8 SEPTEMBER 2014

Paul Hetherington from Buglife writes: Having looked carefully at the photo I am sure it is a Sexton beetle. These are rarely seen – rather than being rare – as, being burying beetles, they hang out around carrion. The key difference between them and the crucifix beetle is the clubbed antennae, which the Sexton has and the crucifix doesn’t.

InBox 1

Your photos This month’s selection of photos from our Flickr site 1 We couldn’t resist Nick Jackson’s gorgeous image of a mother and baby gorilla in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda. 2 Tris Enticknap gets rather too close for comfort to a herd of Cape buffalo on the Chada Plain, Katavi National Park in Tanzania 3 Hey good looking… Paul Wild gets a great shot of a fabulouslooking land iguana on Plaza Sur in the Galapagos Islands 4 This beautiful close up of a waved riband moth was taken by photographer Brian Arbuthnot 5 Congratulations to Andy Howe. His image of a cormorant taking off at Felmersham Reserve in Bedfordshire wins him a three-month subscription to Wild Travel!

To upload your own image, or view and comment on those already there, visit www.flickr.com/groups/wild_travel

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Winning image

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InBox Your stories Birding treasure hunt Last year I took a trip to Hong Kong in the hope of seeing some exotic birds and insects. Most people going to HK for birding concentrate on the Mai Po marshes, near Yuen Long, but there are so many other sites to visit. My favourite place is Tai Po Kau nature reserve in the New Territories, and I carefully planned my trip to coincide with the arrival of the beautiful fork-tailed sunbird. As I entered the reserve the air was filled with birdsong and the gardens were alive with colourful butterflies. I headed to the visitor centre, which was reputed to be the best place to see the sunbirds, and knew instantly I was in the right place, as there were

20 or so large tripods and cameras set up by a clump of flowering coral trees, the sunbird’s favoured bloom. There didn’t seem to be a lot of clattering shutters and I feared I might be out of luck, but then I spotted a single coral tree, a few yards to my right, and decided to wait there, slightly away from the rest of the crowd. The move almost immediately paid off. A beautiful male sunbird landed on a branch directly in front of me, and I managed a few photographs

before he disappeared back into the forest. I did see a few more that day but none came so close. I photographed many wonderful creatures on this trip, but none as stunning as this little rainforest jewel. Paul Davis, via email

From the website Buzz off The news of a report that highlighted the real, devastating risk of neonicotinoids was no surprise to many of our readers, who remain sceptical that their use will remain banned.

I run a bat rescue and for the past two years we have had bats come in with liver failure and hair loss. Eventually, after six weeks this calms down and the skin turns a healthy pink then darkens and the fur eventually grows back. They take a total of 3-4 months to fully recover. The bats have probably been eating insects off sprayed crops. Serotines are the species found to do this. At the time I’m picking up these sick bats the farmers are all out in force spraying. We do not get this problem at any other time of year. Battysally, via website 10 SEPTEMBER 2014

Our news story on www.wildlifeextra.com that reveals the true extent of tiger farming across Asia incensed one reader I am so angry at reading this article, and the ignorance of these people that causeso much unnecessary suffering and depletion of such a beautiful animal. Are there progammes in place to educate and inform the younger generation? Carol Logan, via website

Getting in touch EMAIL: editorial@wildtravelmag.com PHONE: 01242 211 080 FACEBOOK: www.facebook.com/wildtravelmag TWITTER: @wild_travel We welcome your letters but reserve the right to edit them. Please include a daytime telephone number and, if emailing, a postal address (this will not be published)

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It would appear that we have a stay of execution with the report that a company that was lobbying to have them reinstated has withdrawn. However, they haven’t gone away and this Government’s environmental credentials are far from satisfactory. We must remain vigilant and kept each other informed to fight this lunacy. We have to consider the damage that has already occurred, nurture and enhance habitats in order to redress the natural balance. It took many years for affected species like bees to recover from DDT. Roger Weeks, via website

Spain

In the pink

ÂŠ REUTERS/JON NAZCA

An adult flamingo stands out like a beacon among hundreds of grey flamingo chicks at Fuente de Piedra natural reserve, near Malaga in southern Spain. Around 600 flamingos were herded into a corral by volunteers at dawn on 17 July to be tagged and measured before being released back into the lagoon. Fuente de Piedra is home to more than 170 different species of wildlife, including one of the largest colonies of flamingos in Europe, according to authorities at the reserve. Hundreds of flamingo chicks are tagged and checked here annually to monitor their health and numbers.

Wildworld Latest visions from the world of wildlife

South Africa

Surf school

ÂŠ STAN BLUMBERG/BARCROFT MEDIA

Professional surfers take years to hone their craft, but a pod of dolphins showed spectators at Jeffreys Bay in South Africa who really has the natural talent after arriving out of the blue to ride a big set of waves during the 2014 JBay Open surfing competition. Around 10 dolphins put on a spectacular show during the event, which forms part of the prestigious Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) World Championship Tour. =

Wildworld

England

ÂŠ LINDSAY CONSTABLE/ALAMY

Flight of fancy Photographer Lindsay Constable took this image of a radiant Adonis blue butterfly in a meadow in Reigate during the UK Big Butterfly Count, which took place from 19 July to 10 August 2014. This annual survey was launched in 2010 and has rapidly become the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest survey of butterflies. Over 46, 000 people took part in 2013, counting 830, 000 individual butterflies and day-flying moths.

Wildworld

Australia

Hello old timer

USA

Leap of faith

A salmon leaps out of the water at Nimbus Hatchery in Rancho Cordova, California. In July California state officials unveiled plans to restore salmon in the Central Valley. The National Marine Fisheries Service intends to re-establish a population of winter-run Chinook salmon in the McCloud River and in Battle Creek, both tributaries of the Sacramento River.

ÂŠ REX/DAVID CAIRD/NEWSPIX, HECTOR AMEXCUA/PRESS ASSOCIATION

As he approaches the ripe old age of 28, Paddy, a common wombat who lives at the Ballarat Wildlife Park in Victoria, Australia, is believed to be the oldest of his kind in captivity. Paddy came to the park after his mother was hit and killed by a car and he was discovered in her pouch. Now he loves nothing better than being pushed around in a wheelbarrow by his keeper and old friend Stuart Parker.

Shorts New species

Our roundup of the latest news, discoveries and tours that have got the wildlife world talking. For more, sign up to our weekly e-newsletter at www.wildlifeextra.com

United Kingdom

UK bee-eaters Exotic European birds nest on Isle of Wight for the first time

SOUTH

South America’s reputation as one of the most biodiverse areas in the world has been fully justified this month with the discovery of two previously unknown species: a new bat in Bolivia and a new frog in Brazil. Bolivia’s golden bat, Myotis midastactus, which had been previously classified as another bat found in South America called Myotis simu, has now been declared a new species by scientists from the Fundacion Oswaldo Cruz and the Smithsonian Institution after they examined museum specimens. It was named midastactus, after the legendary Greek King Midas, known for his golden touch. Meanwhile, in neighbouring Brazil, a new species of narrow-mouthed frog has been discovered, measuring just 14mm in length. The tiny frog was found in the Atlantic Forest of the Espírito Santo State by scientists from the universities of Richmond, Virginia and George Washington in Washington DC. It has been named Chiasmocleis quilombola after the quilombos communities typical of the part of Brazil where the frogs were collected.

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Ian Ridett, an NT Isle of Wight Ranger, said: “I found a likely-looking hole which

looked like a woodpecker hole, and as I knew someone in the RSPB I contacted them with a photograph of the nest hole. The answer came, “protect immediately with an electric fence”, which we did. “We finally had confirmation that it was a bee-eater nest hole when we saw a bee-eater enter it. I wanted to shout out because I was so thrilled, but this would have disturbed the birds, so Keith Ballard who manages the RSPB’s Brading Marshes Reserve, and I just shook hands instead.”

By numbers

20,000 China

Tiger farming A recent report, entitled Caged Assets: Tiger Farming and Trade and produced by a number of conservation charities including The Born Free Foundation, has revealed that more than 5,000 tigers in China are living in ‘farms’ , in rows of cramped cages. These businesses range from having a handful of

Number of people around the world who went on the 2013 Save the Elephants march SOURCE: DAVID SHELDRICK WILDLIFE TRUST

tigers to two establishments that have more than 1,000 tigers each. The animals are often on display to the public, with tigers forced to perfom in shows. Despite a 1975 ban on international tiger trade, seizures of tigers and tiger products across the Asian region prove there is a growing market. The report calls for an end to tiger breeding facilities. Born Free’s CEO, Will Travers, said: “The

question begs to be asked: why are these tigers being bred if not for trade – trade now and trade for an anticipated future when wild tigers are even rarer and the monetary value of tiger products even greater. Clearly, these tiger farms are commercial concerns and their owners are banking on extinction.”

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OUT OF THE

A pair of colourful bee-eaters, normally to be found in southern continental Europe, set up home on National Trust land on the Isle of Wight this summer. It is only the third record of the bird breeding successfully in the UK in the past century, the last being in 2002 in a quarry in County Durham. Before that, two pairs were recorded raising seven young in a Sussex sand pit in 1955. The latest bee-eaters were discovered on the Isle of Wight in mid-July, nesting on the Wydcombe Estate, where the National Trust set up measures to protect them from egg collectors.

Wildworld park rangers in a shoot-out.

Worldwide

Record rhino sentence A poacher from South Africa has been sentenced to the heaviest penalty available, 77 years, for committing wildlife crimes, after being arrested in the Kruger National Park (KNP) in 2011 for killing three rhino calves. The long sentence has been handed out partly because the South African court held the poacher, Mandla Chauke, responsible for the death of his accomplice who was killed by

“This is a huge triumph for the rhino and we warmly welcome this reward as it will provide the much needed boost to the anti poaching teams who endure harsh conditions for the protection of our parks,” said Acting Chief Executive Officer of SANParks, Abe Sibiya. The KNP has lost 370 animals to poaching since January this year and 62 people have been arrested. “Our wish is to see a significant increase in such convictions and for the law enforcement authorities in affected countries to work with us to end this scourge,” said Sibiya.

Africa

New tours

PLIGHT OF PANGOLINS

Indo-china

A high price is being paid for a ‘luxury’ food item The enigmatic pangolin, or scaly anteater, is literally being eaten out of existence, reports the Zoological Society of London (ZSL). On the latest update of the IUCN Red List, all eight species are now threatened with extinction, with an estimated one million taken from the wild in the past decade. Resembling an artichoke with legs and a tail, the pangolin is the world’s only truly scaly mammal. However, these scales act as armour against natural predators but offer no defence against poachers. Consumers are willing to pay high

prices for their meat, which is being plated up at banquets across the East as a luxury food. A new action plan Scaling up Pangolin Conservation is focused on protecting pangolin strongholds in Asia and Africa, helping local communities move away from poaching, strengthening legislation and understanding and reducing consumer demand.

Micro-life

Fennec fox The smallest of the world’s canids, this nocturnal fox is found in the Sahara and is the national animal of Algeria. Fennecs measure between 24 and 40cm (9-16in) in body length, with 10 to 15cm (4-6in) long ears. These extraordinarily large ears help to regulate body heat, although they also have thick coats to keep them warm in the cold desert nights, as well as protecting their skin from the searing sun. The pads of their feet are hairy to stop them from burning on the sand. They can go for long periods without water, and feed on insects, plants, eggs, mice and lizards. Unfortunately, cute looks and attractive fur make them vulnerable to the exotic pet and fur trades.

Specialist tour operator Gane and Marshall has added a small group itinerary to Laos for 12 days/11 nights, which takes in the wilderness of the Bokeo Nature Reserve, a gibbon experience and an exploration of the Mekong River. Cost: from £1,399 land-only, or £1,944 with flights When: all through 2014 and 2015 www.ganeandmarshall.com

Return to Haiti Following the devastating earthquake five years ago, toruism is starting to flourish again in Haiti. G Adventures is providing a 10-day highlights-of-thecountry trip that includes the opportunity to explore the natural beauty of this Caribbean gem. Cost: from £1,599pp (excluding international flights) When: from February 2015 www.gadventures.co.uk

Highlands and isles Two new Scottish Highlands and Orkney Island tours are starting in 2015. Orcadian Wildlife has got together with the Grant Arms Hotel in Grantown-on-Spey to offer tailor-made wildlife holidays mixed with Scottish culture. Cost: from £995 (7 nights) When: May and June 2015 www.orcadianwildlife.co.uk

JULY 2014 21

Wildlife weekends

The Flamborough front H

alf-a-dozen nautical miles offshore, Britain’s largest seabird pierces the North Sea surface in pursuit of fishy fare. Gannet! Another plunges, a gleaming white arrow with golden head. Another follows. And another. From your ring-side seat on a gently cradling boat, you watch the gannets plunder the shoal. Then, as in all exciting seafaring stories, a swarthy pirate sears into frame. A great skua or ‘bonxie’ hassles a gannet or harries a gull, forcing the victim to sacrifice its catch. You are aboard a RSPB ‘shearwaters and skuas’ cruise off the Yorkshire coast. Departing Bridlington, you spend a half-day exploring the ‘Flamborough front’, a marine upwelling rich in nutrients that serves as a supermarket for the thousands of migrating seabirds that traverse the North Sea in early autumn. Most passage takes place far offshore. ‘Seawatching’ from a promontory such as 130m-high

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Flamborough Head, which protrudes 13km into marine waters, can uncover these magical movements. But to see the seabirds at close range, join them in their element offshore. Hence the genius of the longrunning RSPB trip. Standard feathered fare is provided by local breeders from the chalk cliffs at Flamborough and Bempton. You should see good numbers of fulmar, kittiwake, razorbill, guillemot and puffin. But you are really after migrating seabirds. In addition to bonxies, bodybuilding brutes with white wing blazes, you should encounter Arctic skua, a more modest but equally piratical adversary that bullies kittiwakes and terns. Be alert to a possibility of two rarer brethren: pomarine and long-tailed skuas, the latter a svelte seabird with the flight of a tern. Manx shearwaters surround the boat, flashing alternately black then white. A notch up in size and several in scarcity is sooty shearwater, which breeds no closer

than Tristan da Cunha, 3,000km southwest of South Africa. Silvery underwings glinting on dark brown body, ‘sooties’ pitch down to chomp on the ‘chum’ (diced fish bait) floating behind the boat. Keep your eyes peeled for oddities. Perhaps a Sabine’s gull, a waif-like Arctic breeder, or a ‘blue fulmar’, the dusky phase of ‘our’ fulmar, which breeds similarly far north. And watch out for marine mammals: grey seal and harbour porpoise are likely. Back on land, further the maritime theme by getting your feet wet on the rocky shores of Flamborough Head’s South Landing. An afternoon here exploring life exposed by the low tide can be fascinating and fun. Even without children in tow, rockpooling brings out the kid in you. Wildlife rewards abound: beadlet anemones resembling purple jelly; sea hares, a marine slug; common shore crab and common blenny, a saucer-eyed fish secluded beneath seaweed. Before you go,

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Make your way to East Yorkshire in September for gannets, sooty shearwaters, pomarine skuas, rockpool life and migrant songbirds, writes James Lowen

WildUK Clockwise from left: the beautifully patterned gannet; a fulmer over a glassy sea; a sooty shearwater glides just above the waves; a beadlet anemone among the barnacles

PRACTICALITIES

contextualise your explorations at Yorkshire Wildlife Trust’s Living Sea Centre nearby. The next day, explore Flamborough Head’s terrestrial birdlife. Flamborough is renowned among birders as one of Britain’s prime migration hotspots. Clear skies over Scandinavia prompt mass departures of breeding birds, seduced into thinking that their passage southwards is straightforward. Should the North Sea be shrouded in rain-bearing cloud, those same migrants take refuge on the first terra firma they encounter. Thrusting seaward, Flamborough’s headland is often that landmass, and the sudden invasion of weary birds is called a ‘fall’. During a fall, willow warblers and blackcaps may drip from trees. Common redstarts and pied flycatchers may festoon bushes. Wheatears and wagtails may flock in the fields. And scarce birds may pitch up in the strangest habitats: wryneck on a wall, red-backed shrike on a fence or barred warbler in a bramble bush. The huge Head can seem a daunting place to birdwatch. Focusing your day on a trio of areas is more productive than aimlessly wandering clifftop paths (scenic though that

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may be). Start at South Landing, but this time forego the tideline. Instead, walk slowly coastwards along the small wooded ravine, scanning tall trees, high hedges and dense undergrowth for movement, then circumvent the eastern side of the wood past Highcliffe Manor back to the car park. Then make for the Outer Head, using the lighthouse car park. Start immediately north by checking the ‘Bay Brambles’ and bushes in Selwick Bay. Then search the ‘Gorse Field’ east of the car park. Following the hedgelined footpath forming the field’s eastern perimeter brings you to Head Farm and eventually to the cliff path. Follow this west, cut north inland along Old Fall Hedge, past a wood to the road and back to the car park. Finally, go north, to North Landing. Yorkshire Wildlife Trust’s reserve is great for breeding seabirds in summer, but in autumn the scrubby valley leading inland often harbours migrant landbirds. Suddenly there is an insistent call from an elusive sprite: a flicker of bright green, a flash of white stripes. Have you just found the autumn’s first yellow-browed warbler, freshly arrived after a 3,000km flight from the Urals?

WHERE TO GO: RSPB ‘skuas and shearwaters’ cruises depart Bridlington North Pier, exploring offshore for a half day. Check the RSPB website for details (www.rspb.org.uk/ datewithnature) and booking. Bridlington North Pier lies immediately south of the A1034/ B1254 junction. There is a seafront car park at Langdale Wharf. For Flamborough Head (flamboroughbirdobs.org: includes useful map and birding site details), leave Bridlington on the B1255 northeast to Flamborough village. Then take the B1259 east towards the Head. Turn right immediately after the village to reach South Landing car park (TA231695); walk south to the bay and do a circuit anti-clockwise. From Flamborough village, follow the B1255 northeast to North Landing car park (TA240720). Explore the gully inland from Yorkshire Wildlife Trust reserve (tinyurl.com/flamborough). SUGGESTED BASES: Flamborough, Bridlington (www.bridlington.net) and Filey (www.fileytourism.co.uk). FLEXIBILITY: Cruises run once each weekend from early September to early October. Migrating landbirds can be seen from mid-August to late October, though the composition of a ‘fall’ varies. Weather conditions are critical: easterly winds, ideally originating from high pressure over Scandinavia or further east, combined with poor visibility over the North Sea, are key. For rockpooling, low tides (just after a new moon) are optimal. RECOMMENDED READING: Purchase James Lowen’s 52 Wildlife Weekends at a special price of £7.79 (inc free UK p&p). Visit www.bradtguides. com and use the code WT52. Offer expires 19/02/15

SEPTEMBER 2014 23

WildUK Spotter’s guide

Whales and dolphins

Danny Groves from the Whale and Dolphin Conservation picks six common species of cetaceans to look out for in the waters around the UK and Ireland in September

Risso’s dolphin Grampus griseus The body of an adult Risso’s generally has a base colour of grey that is almost hidden by a pattern of white scars, which increase with age and are caused by interaction between the dolphins. They grow to about 4m in length and have a tall dorsal fin, and a bulbous forehead with no beak. The mouth slopes up to look like a smile. They are often seen in groups of 10 or more off the coast of Shetland throughout the summer months, as well as in the waters around Wales and Ireland’s Cape Clear Island. Diet: squid

Humpback whale Megaptera novaeangliae One of the most energetic of the large whales, they can be distinguished by their large size, knobbly head and 5m long flippers. They are known for the way they indulge in spectacular breaching, lobtailing and flipper-slapping. Sightings of humpback whales off Shetland are common in early summer and they are often close to land. They can also be seen in the waters off south-west Ireland, with Cape Clear Island being the best site to view them along the south coast of England. Diet: small schooling fish and small crustaceans called copepods

Harbour porpoise Phocoena phocoena The only porpoise in European waters and, although shy, its small size, characteristic rolling-swimming style and small triangular dorsal fin make it easy to recognise. Small numbers occur along England’s north coast and off headlands such as Pentire, Hartland and Foreland Points. Any headland on Orkney could provide sightings in summer, and Shetland is known for large populations. Also spotted on the Welsh coast, particularly between Cardigan and Aberporth. Diet: small pelagic schooling fish, particularly herring, capelin, and sprat

Common bottlenose dolphin Tursiops truncatus These sociable, inquisitive and playful dolphins are dark grey or sometimes bluish or brownish grey, with paler lower sides and lighter belly. They have a short, stubby beak, a high dorsal fin, slender pointed flippers, and pointed fluke. The Moray Firth in Scotland and Cardigan Bay in Wales have populations in roughly the same region all year around. The coasts of Devon and Cornwall are home to a group of 40 bottlenose dolphins, which roam widely and can be more difficult to find. Diet: fish, shrimp and squid

Common minke whale Balaenoptera acutorostrata Common minkes can grow to over 10m in length. They are black, dark brown, or grey on their upper side with a lighter belly and a dorsal fin positioned far behind the centre of their back. They also have a white band on each flipper. They prefer cooler temperatures than those favoured by southern minke, and so can be seen all around the coast of Scotland during the summer months, particularly the area between the island of Mull and the south coast of Skye. Diet: mainly krill and fish

Common dolphin Delphinus delphis/capensis The common dolphin species has now been separated into short-beaked (delphis) and long-beaked (capensis) varieties, but both have very distinctive colouring which forms an hourglass pattern on their sides. A yellow panel runs down the front half of both sides, separated from the grey stripe in the rear by a cape of black that forms a saddle just below the dorsal fin. They can be seen in the western approaches to the English Channel or into the Celtic Sea, and also in the Irish Sea. Diet: many species of fish and squid

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Clockwise from left: semi-tundra moorland on Cairngorm Mountain; a ptarmigan turning from brown to its white winter plumage; a mountain hare in similar transition

Tour of Britain

Cairngorm Mountain Overlooking Strathspey in the Highlands, Cairngorm Mountain has high-level species such as golden eagles, ptarmigan, mountain hares, and even reindeer Since the 1950s An Càrn Gorm – Blue Hill in Gaelic – in the heart of the Cairngorms National Park, has been best known for climbing and winter skiing. However, the infrastructure created by the ski centre – roads, car parks and a funicular railway – has meant that wildlife watchers can easily access the mountainside above 1,200m (4,000ft) year-round and see some of the specialist animals that roam the alpine semi-tundra moorland. Only guided walks are allowed at the top and these are dependent on weather, but the walk down and the lower slopes of ancient Caledonian Forest can be explored freely.

History At 4,528 sq km (1,748 sq miles) Cairngorms National Park is the UK’s largest national park, created in 2003. Originally, people were allowed to walk all over the mountain, but the fragile environment suffered and so the funicular railway was built. What became the Cairngorm Mountain Railway, the Ranger Station at 637m (2,090ft), and the Ptarmigan Centre with its restaurant and viewing platform at 1,097m (3,600ft), were all opened in 2001.

Wildlife The moorland around the top of Cairngorm Mountain is Arctic-like in its plant life, and the wildlife that lives there has to withstand extremes of cold in winter. The ptarmigan, a grouse species

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the size of a chicken, lives exclusively in the highest parts of Scotland and is the only British bird to turn white in winter as camouflage. Its feathered feet act like snowshoes to stop it from sinking into drifts. Mountain hares are also only found above 500m (1,600ft) and similarly change their fur from dappled brown to white when the weather turns. The National Park is home to 25 per cent of Britain’s endangered animals. Capercaillie, wildcats, red squirrels and pine martens can be found in ancient Abernethy Forest, along with crested tits, black grouse and Scottish crossbills. Golden eagles and ospreys haunt the tree tops and forest lochs. Wandering the moors is a small herd of around 50 reindeer, the only one in Britain, reintroduced in the 1950s by a Swedish herdsman.

Seasonal highlights Autumn is possibly the easiest time to spot ptarmigan as they are begin to turn white before the snows arrive. Their normal shingled grey, brown and ochre plumage, which helps to conceal them in summer amongst the lichen-covered rocks, gradually becomes almost completely white with just a short black tail. Similarly, mountain hares are beginning their transition to white and so are at their most conspicuous in autumn. Young golden eagles may be seen hunting on the skyline and the salmon are spawning in the rivers, an event that can attract otters.

NEED TO KNOW LOCATION: Cairngorm Mountain is 8 miles south east of Aviemore with its national rail station and connecting buses.Inverness and Aberdeen are the nearest airports. VISITOR CENTRE: There is a café, shop, toilets and extensive car parking at the Ranger Station. At the Top Station there’s the Ptarmigan Restaurant, bar, exhibition about the mountain, viewing terrace, toilets and shop. The funicular railway runs every 20 minutes from 10.00am to the last descent at 4.30pm OPENING TIMES AND PRICES: Funicular day ticket: Adult £10.50, child £6.80, concessions £9.50, under-5s free 90-minute guided walks from the Top Station – May to October at 10.30am and 1.30pm; £6. Guided hill walk from the Ranger Station – May to October on Wednesdays and Saturdays 10.00am to 3.30pm CONTACT DETAILS: www. cairngormmountain.org wildlifeextra.com

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In hot water

Chas Holt from the British Trust for Ornithology explains the results of their latest survey of the UK’s wading birds Why did you decide to conduct a survey of wading birds? Wading birds are monitored throughout the year as part of a UK Wetland Bird Survey (WeBS). This has three main objectives: to assess the size of non-breeding waterbird populations in the UK; trends in their numbers and distribution and the importance of individual sites for waterbirds.

How was the survey conducted? WeBS volunteers carry out counts of waterbirds each month at a variety of wetlands across the UK on a pre-designated WeBS Count. We are indebted to their efforts. The surveyors count all waterbirds at their site and submit the data to us at the BTO – we then collate the information and produce an annual report. See the results online at http://blx1. bto.org/webs-reporting/

What were the headline results? Some of the main headlines concerned waterbirds in decline. In particular, waders that are reliant on our estuaries and other coastal areas are decreasing steadily. Familiar waders such as oystercatcher, redshank, dunlin, curlew and ringed plover have all declined by more than 15 per cent across the UK in the last 10 years.

What species have seen the greatest declines and why? Wintering numbers of ringed plover have more than halved in the last 25 years and dropped by 38 per cent since 2002. The UK’s wintering population is partly comprised of birds that breed here during the summer months, and issues such as disturbance and predation may be affecting breeding numbers. Declines in redshank, curlew, oystercatcher and dunlin, and particularly of those of grey plover, bar-tailed godwit and knot, all of which breed in the Arctic, may be partly due to a larger proportion of their populations wintering in

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the continent as a consequence of climate change.

Are there any wader species that have increased? It’s not all bad news. Two species have increased markedly in winter. Avocet has risen 57 per cent in the last 10 years, continuing the increase since the species became established in the 1970s. In line with increasing numbers of black-tailed godwits breeding in Iceland, from where the UK’s wintering population originates, latest WeBS results show that UK winter numbers have risen by 48 per cent since 2002.

GREAT BRITISH BEACH CLEAN 19-22 September Nationwide This weekend the Marine Conservation Society is asking people to spend a day at the beach helping to clean it up. Marine litter is a major problem that threatens the life of a wide variety of marine life. www.mcsuk.org

What are the main issues affecting wading birds here in the UK? Research has shown that climate change has affected wintering waterbird distributions. A larger proportion of wintering populations are now able to use estuaries across the North Sea; the Dutch/ German ‘Wadden Sea’. Within the UK itself, this ‘west to east’ movement has manifested itself by leading to steeper declines on the west coast of the UK than the east. Waders are susceptible to disturbance of both foraging and roost sites, so it important that the UK’s most important estuaries, many of which are Special Protection Areas (SPAs), continue to be appropriately managed.

SNAKES ALIVE EXHIBITION 19 September-22 February World Museum, Liverpool Discover the slithering life of snakes. Find out all about them, from how they capture prey to why they shed their skin. Objects on display include a Burmese python skeleton and photographs of snakes from around the world. www.liverpoolmuseums.org. uk/snakes

What is the BTO advising to protect our wading bird populations? The continued monitoring through WeBS is obviously paramount to be able to continue to detect population change based on robust data. Within the wider flyway, WeBS information contributes to the International Waterbird Census (IWC), and maintaining collaboration between international partners is vital to properly understand what is happening to our wader populations. For details of the BTO’s latest volunteer survey projects go to: www.bto.org/volunteer-surveys

MARCH FOR ELEPHANTS AND RHINOS October 4 Worldwide People in cities across the world will march to raise awareness of the issues affecting elephants and rhinos. In the UK there are marches planned in Edinburgh, Birmingham, Bristol and London. www.march4elephants andrhinos.org SEPTEMBER 2014 27

DAY TRIP I UK

LONG WEEKEND I UK

OR HOME AWAY? We round up the best wildlife watching experiences for September, with ideas for days out, weekends away and short and long haul breaks - but which gets your vote? WORDS BY WILLIAM GRAY

LONG HAUL I BRAZIL

MINI BREAK I ROMANIA

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DID YOU KNOW?

DAY TRIP I UK

A night in the woods

Clockwise from left: badgers feed up for winter at this time of year; the view from Henley Hill to Buckland Newton; a tawny owl peeps out of its tree hole

Old Henley Farm, Buckland Newton, Dorset Staking out a badger sett can be rewarding throughout spring and summer, but badgers are particularly active feeding during September as they build up body fat in preparation for winter. Old Henley Farm offers floodlit viewing of a large sett in Dorset thought to be around 100 years old and currently home to a clan of about a dozen adult badgers. Two hides – each accommodating up to 12 people – face a sheltered beech copse on a gentle slope of chalk grassland. This is badger watching in style. The hides have comfortable seats and reading lights, while carpeted floors deaden the sound of footfalls as you arrive in the early evening to take up your vigil. You may need to wait an hour or two before the first black and white face appears in the dark maw of one of the sett’s burrows. Sitting quietly, though, you’ll quickly tune in to the subtle sights and sounds that accompany the transition from day to night shift in the English countryside: a blackbird singing, pheasants settling down to roost, a fox flowing like a wisp of russet smoke along the woodland edge… With luck you’ll hear tawny owls calling or glimpse the flickering shapes of bats. If they feel safe, the badgers will emerge onto this twilight stage, raising their snouts to scent for possible danger before settling into their nocturnal routines. As well as feeding behaviour, you may also observe them grooming, mating, fighting or even doing a spot of housework, dragging old bedding material out of the sett and replacing it with fresh grass and leaves. Cubs are usually born in February, venturing outside for the first time around mid-April. By September, they’ll be nearly as big as the adults. Depending on how long summer lingers into September, cubs will be busy play fighting or feeding alongside grown-ups to put on winter fat. 30 SEPTEMBER 2014

AT A GLANCE COST RATING: WHEN TO GO: Badgers are active year round, but spring and summer are the best times for viewing them

OTHER WILDLIFE: Tawny owls, foxes, rabbits and bats BOOK NOW: Badger Watch Dorset (www.badgerwatch dorset.co.uk) wildlifeextra.com

Badgers are thought to have been present on the British Isles for the last 300-400,000 years

HOMEORAWAY? LONG WEEKEND I UK

Winging it on the south coast Isle of Wight With flower-speckled swathes of chalk downland, the Isle of Wight is a summer hotspot for butterflies. Around 40 of the UK’s 61 species are resident here – look for the rare Glanville fritillary on the coastal cliffs of Compton Bay, chalkhill and Adonis blues on Tennyson Downs and the purple hairstreak and pearl-bordered fritillary at Walter’s Copse and Parkhurst Forest. Its southerly location means the Isle of Wight can stay sunny and warm well into September – so it’s a great place to see late summer insects on the wing, including migrant butterflies such as the clouded yellow. Spilling across the Channel from continental Europe, these delicate but determined travellers occasionally form spectacular swarms over the clover-rich downland. They begin making landfall along the UK’s south coast as early as May, but August and September can see the greatest numbers as the main influx gets all of a flutter with the newly emerged offspring of early arrivals. Keep an eye out, too, for other migrants such as the zippy day-flying hummingbird hawkmoth, the less flashy silver-Y moth and the ever-so-elegant painted lady butterfly. Seaside parks and gardens with late-flowering, nectar-rich plants are good hunting grounds. With its Mediterranean style planting, Ventnor Botanic Gardens will seem like home-from-home for long-distance fliers. It’s not only insects that are seduced by the Isle of Wight’s balmy climate. Migrant birds also make a point of dropping by to rest and refuel on their southerly autumn migrations. Ventnor Downs is an excellent vantage from which to spot common species such as finches, larks and pipits, as well as scarcer migrant raptors such as ospreys, honey buzzards and black kites.

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Clockwise from below left: Glanville fritillary butterflies; Freshwater Bay on the Isle of Wight; a common buzzard

AT A GLANCE COST RATING: WHEN TO GO: Summer and early autumn for butterflies

OTHER WILDLIFE: Mainland rarities such as red squirrels, dormice and water voles thrive on the Isle of Wight BOOK NOW: Visit Isle of Wight (www.visitisleofwight.co.uk)

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MINI BREAK I ROMANIA

Watching the f ly-past

Clockwise from left: great egrets in the Delta; the wetlands attract large collections of birds; great white pelicans

Danube Delta, Romania

AT A GLANCE COST RATING: WHEN TO GO: Spring or autumn for bird migrations

OTHER WILDLIFE: Resident birds of the Danube include white and Dalmatian pelicans, grebes, herons and cormorants BOOK NOW: Limosa Holidays (www.limosaholidays.co.uk)

A major flyway for migratory birds, the Danube Delta is a mecca to birdwatchers at this time of year. Visit in late spring and you’ll be spellbound by resident breeding species such as pelicans, flying in undulating lines above sun-spangled lagoons, or nesting colonies of glossy ibis, spoonbill, pygmy cormorant, white stork and collared pratincole. But visit in September and you’ll be in ornithological overdrive. When the autumn migration funnels birds through the Danube on their epic transit between Eurasia and Africa, this immense wetland stages one of the world’s greatest wildlife spectacles. The southern part of the delta – particular Sacaline, a 20km-long sandy peninsula on the Black Sea – offers a front-row seat for watching raptors, waders, storks and passerines on the move. Fussing through shoreline vegetation, large flocks of bee-eaters, blackcaps, robins, redstarts, tits, thrushes and warblers can be seen, along with red-breasted flycatchers, red-backed shrikes and thrush nightingales. Among the waders, broad-billed and terek sandpipers will also be moving south, while overhead, birds of prey to watch for include both common and honey buzzards, greater spotted and steppe eagles, hobby and red-footed falcons, marsh and pallid harriers, Levant sparrowhawks and lesser kestrels. For unrivalled views of the Danube’s prolific birdlife, be sure to spend a few days on one of the Delta’s hotel-boats, drifting through the vast network of rivers, lakes and reedbeds. Just to the south of the Danube, Sinoe makes a good base for visiting Histria on Romania’s Black Sea coast, where you can watch waves of migrant birds passing overhead. The Danube also combines well with the nearby Macin Mountains – a particularly good spot for watching migrant raptors.

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HOMEORAWAY?

LONG HAUL I BRAZIL

Jaguars on the prowl

Clockwise from left: a jaguar on the Cuiabá River; a jacare caiman; butterflies taking minerals from the Rio Negro riverbank

The Pantanal, Brazil With numbers probably higher than anywhere else in South America, Brazil’s great wetland is one of the best places to spot the elusive and notoriously shy jaguar. The chances of an encounter increase during the dry season (June to November) when shrinking wetland areas concentrate predator and prey. In one particular part of the north-central Pantanal, strict protection from hunting combined with abundant food has further weighed in the jaguars’ favour. SouthWild, which operates two floating hotels in the area, has guaranteed jaguar viewing on the Cuiabá, Three Brothers and Piquiri Rivers since 2006. The cats are sometimes seen within 5m of the ‘flotels’, but more often than not you will need to venture out on early morning boat safaris or evening spotlighting excursions to catch a glimpse of this fine feline, lying in the shade of dense riverine forest or wading through the shallows. If you’re extremely lucky, you might witness South America’s top land predator hunting. The name ‘jaguar’ is derived from the Native American word yaguar, which means “he who kills with one leap” – a technique the big cat uses to dispatch anything from fish, turtles and caimans to capybaras, peccaries and tapirs. To be honest, though, a jaguar sighting is the cherry on the Pantanal’s rather generous cake. The place is positively squirming with wildlife, including some 30 million caiman, half a million capybara and over 650 species of birds, including the gorgeous hyacinth macaw. Add to this, the exuberant giant river otter and extraordinary giant anteater, plus anacondas, armadillos, ocelots and howler monkeys and you have a wildlife experience as compelling as Africa’s Okavango Delta. wildlifeextra.com

AT A GLANCE COST RATING: WHEN TO GO: June to November

OTHER WILDLIFE: Without doubt caiman and capybara; with luck giant anteater, giant river otter and hyacinth macaw BOOK NOW: Naturetrek (www.naturetrek.co.uk) SEPTEMBER 2014 33

A pair of lions from one of the Shumba Camp areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s three prides

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Pride ofplace

Trip Report

KAFUE NATIONAL PARK, ZAMBIA

WORDS BY SOPHIE STAFFORD PHOTOS BY NEIL ALDRIDGE

The seemingly endless floodplains of Zambia’s Kafue National Park attract a profusion of wildlife but the predatory stars of this beautiful yet unforgiving environment are the ‘swamp lions’ of the Busanga Plains

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SEPTEMBER 2014 35

lioness There’s a

on my balcony. She’s apparently decided that the elevated platform on which the room perches is the perfect spot for an afternoon snooze. As I watch from the vehicle, still queasy after my arrival by light aircraft, she rises to her paws and gazes through the room’s glass doors, perhaps wondering if, like Goldilocks, she should try out the four-poster bed for size. Suddenly there’s a movement in the shadows just behind her and a plump cub solemnly pads to her side.

other and son seem so relaxed I almost expect them to saunter all the way into Shumba Camp’s dining area and order a cocktail. But as the pair reach the connecting walkway they flop down, paws dangling nonchalantly over the edge. The cub gazes at me with bright amber eyes, then, bored as quickly as a child, winds himself under his mother’s chin, demanding attention. Ignoring him, she rises again, slips to the ground and vanishes into the long grass. The cub cries plaintively, softly at first but with increasing petulance. When the lioness reappears, she has two more cubs in tow and leads her family out onto the plain in front of the camp. Reunited, the siblings box and wrestle, all baby fat and tiny pointy teeth. Their mother stretches out in the sun, clearly unconcerned about being stalked by our solitary 4x4. Eventually the family move on and we head into camp, astonished to have experienced such an intimate encounter with the area’s apex predator before we’ve even unpacked. We probably shouldn’t have been surprised; ‘Shumba’ means lion in the local dialect and the camp shares the plains with no fewer than three prides. At 22,400 sq km Kafue is the largest (and oldest) National Park in Zambia and is often lauded as having the most varied antelope viewing on the continent. But I had travelled to this remote northwestern corner in search of lions. The Busanga Plains – a vast, flat, pristine expanse of grassy seasonal floodplain – were unlike anything I had experienced in Africa before. Crowned by a huge expanse of blue sky, they stretch smoothly to the horizon in all directions, dissolving in places into a labyrinth of muddy

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Clockwise from top: mother and cub treat the decking of Shumba Camp as their own personal lookout; a magnificent male red lechwe with his herd; a wattled crane; Busanga Plains from the air

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SEPTEMBER 2014 37

Up close and personal

Trip Report

KAFUE NATIONAL PARK, ZAMBIA

Lion research Assessing the threats to Kafue’s lions to devise a long-term strategy

Right: the lioness drags her kill into the shade for her cubs. Below: the comfortable viewing area of Shumba Camp

The Busanga Plains is a vast, flat, pristine expanse of grassy seasonal floodplain channels, hippo pools and papyrus swamps, sprinkled with isolated tree islands. Here, perched atop ancient termite mounds, the tall, cactus-like candelabras of Euphorbia battled for anchorage and elevation with acacias and majestic sycamore figs. The figs are well-loved by the local Busanga pride, who, on the hottest days of the year in late September and early October, find respite from biting flies in their broad-spreading branches, a habit for which they have become famous. Next morning, as the stars dimmed and the sky blushed with the first faint light of dawn, we ate breakfast overlooking plains swaddled in mist and studded with the silhouettes of hundreds of grazing antelopes. Our meal was interrupted with the news that the lioness had made a kill. We rushed to our 4x4, and found the family on a swathe of blackened ground. Bushfires often sweep through Kafue and this one had burned for three days. Now, just two weeks later, wildlifeextra.com

Lions are in trouble. They have been wiped out in over 80 per cent of their historical range in Africa, and studies estimate that they have declined in number from more than 100,000 to possibly as low as 20,000 over the past 50 years. Due to its size and relatively low human population density, Zambia is one of only seven countries estimated to have a population in excess of 1,000 wild lions, and is thus of strategic importance to the species’ future. Kafue National Park (KNP) is a potential stronghold for lions, not just in Zambia, but in the whole of southern Africa. Currently, however, little is known about the size and health of the lion population in the region. So the Kafue Lion Project was set up to determine the current conservation status of the species in the park, and identify the threats facing lions in the greater Kafue system. To assess the status of the KNP’s lion population, the team counted lion spoors (tracks) and prey, performed call-up surveys (where prey distress calls are played to attract lions so they can be counted), and radiocollared key prides to determine whether numbers are being

limited by natural or anthropogenic factors. They found that lions in the area face a number of potential threats. These include poaching, both subsistence and commercial, which has a devastating effect on lions and their prey; fire, which also affects the lions’ prey and threatens cubs at the den; flooding, which may impact cub survival during the wet season; and trophy hunting in adjacent areas, which affects lion populations within the protected region. Long-term, the ambition of the people who work on the Kafue Lion Project is to develop a plan that will ensure the sustainable management of lions in the greater KNP system and contribute to a countrywide Lion Management Strategy.

fresh growth was already pushing its way up through the black dust, attracting a variety of grazers.

he lioness was lying beside the body of a red lechwe, a beard of blood drying on her chin, while the cubs played nearby. She ignored our arrival, but with the sun gaining heat and vultures taking to thermals in search of an easy meal, it was time to move the meat into the shade. Gripping the lechwe’s long pale throat, she straddled its body and began to haul it to a nearby tree island, its long legs trailing like an unstuffed teddy bear. Curious, the cubs raced back to their mother. One jumped up at her tail, playfully biting her rump, while another surfed on the trailing antelope, front paws clinging to its hide, rear paws paddling hard to keep up. With the eternal patience of motherhood, the lioness grunted a gentle warning. She was clearly not only an excellent hunter but a great mum, giving her SEPTEMBER 2014 39

â&#x20AC;&#x153;In the long blonde hippo grass, we spotted a patch of chocolate brown fur. It was the luxuriant mane of the alpha male of the Busanga prideâ&#x20AC;?

Clockwise from right: hot air balloon flights over the Plains; great white pelicans preening; the rare and beautiful roan; a hippo emerges from its muddy wallow; Leonard, the handsome alpha male of the Busanga pride

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Trip Report

KAFUE NATIONAL PARK, ZAMBIA

cubs the best possible start even without the help of her pride. Leaving the family to fill their bellies, we took a bone-shaking track across the plains, where male crowned cranes bounced and leaped, wings outstretched, to impress females, and ubiquitous red lechwe, puku and tiny oribi, grazed confidently in the open landscape, safe from ambush predators. It was an even rarer antelope I hoped to see, because Busanga is famous for them. Sure enough, we were soon spellbound by a herd of more than 30 roan. They seemed equally fascinated by us, staring without blinking, as if playing a game of musical statues. Eventually, one large dusky male approached, his long, tassel-tipped ears cocked at 10 to two, and coughed sternly. He was perhaps warning us not to come any nearer, but I found it hard to take such a comical- looking antelope seriously.

s you might expect, a density of plains game here – antelopes, buffalo, wildebeest and zebra – attracts an equal profusion of predators: mainly lions, but also cheetah, leopard, spotted hyena, serval and wild dog, which our guide Idos Mulenga claimed to have seen for 28 days on the trot before we arrived. Typical! A more obliging species lived in the nearby Lufupa Channel, a freshwater filigree of shallow pools, swamps and gullies. With Idos promising to get us closer than we thought possible, we took to the water in a specially adapted boat. At the edge, a pod of more than 20 hippos was sleeping in a pile, like a heap of kittens. On our approach they rose, casting anxious looks in our direction, and slid into deeper water, mud melting from their backs. They were the most timid hippos I’d ever met, and as we squeezed past barely a foot away, they submerged sheepishly. Heading upstream, we enjoyed eye-level views of newly wildlifeextra.com

arrived great white pelicans preening travel-weary wings, yellow-billed storks stalking fish in the shallows, wattled cranes posing, and rotund male lechwe – noses in the grass, rumps in the air – guarding a harem of females from unwanted suitors. Then, in the long blonde hippo grass, we spotted a patch of chocolate brown fur. It was the luxuriant mane of the alpha male of the Busanga pride; nicknamed “Leonard” by the guides. The rest of the pride sprawled further away, invisible but for the pale belly of a lioness snoozing on her back, paws in the air. Before I knew it, I was out of the boat and sneaking up on the sleeping lion. Just 25m away we stopped to take a photo and, at the click of the shutter, Leonard leapt to his feet and twisted to stare at us in surprise. He was clearly mystified as to how mere humans had managed to creep up on him, but he trotted away with all the leonine poise he could muster, flaxen mane bouncing gently like an ad for shampoo. Back at camp, we were met with grim news: the lioness had lost her cubs. We dashed to where she had been seen and found her looking exhausted, calling forlornly, over and over. Idos surmised that she had stashed the cubs while she went hunting and they had wandered away, scared off by a predator perhaps… or worse. He feared the cubs might be victims of the mysterious high mortality haunting the Busanga pride. “Things started to go wrong when a lioness – one of its most successful hunters – was killed by a buffalo,” Idos explained. “Shortly afterwards, her sub-adult cub was seen biting the heads off terrapins, clearly starving.” Another lioness died from an infected paw, perhaps a crocodile bite, proving that even adults succumb to this harsh environment. More sinisterly, the pride has never successfully raised cubs to adulthood. “When the camp is closed in SEPTEMBER 2014 41

Trip Report

KAFUE NATIONAL PARK, ZAMBIA Here: a Busanga cub that managed to get itself lost; one of the Musansa Boys taking liberties with a Busanga female

November for the floods, the young are about eight months old, alive and well,” said Idos. “But when the floodwaters recede in May, they are nowhere to be found.” He fears the pride breeds too late and the cubs are not big and strong enough to survive February floods that turn the sea of grass to an ocean of water.

he next day, as the dawning sun burned clouds of steam from the water and silenced the churring of the nightjars, we heard that lions were mating near camp. With the taste of croissants and coffee still fresh in our mouths, we hastened to the scene. The lovers lolled, in a post-coital daze, on a huge termite mound crowned with golden grass. Rising to his feet, the male sniffed the female and we were surprised to see he was not Leonard but one of the “Musansa Boys”, two bold brothers living 40km to the southeast who were increasingly ignoring territorial boundaries. The male was in peak condition, well-muscled beneath a beautiful tawny coat, and clearly not afraid to risk the territoryholder’s wrath – not only was he trespassing in the heart of the Busanga pride’s territory, he was mating with one of Leonard’s lionesses. And when he had finished, he astonished everyone by roaring provocatively, the sonorous sound reverberating in

TRIP ADVISER

COST RATING

SAMPLE PACKAGE TOUR: Four nights, including two nights at Shumba Camp and two nights at Busanga Plains Camp, on an all-inclusive basis (food, most beverages, accommodation, activities including a hot air balloon ride, and light aircraft transfers from Lusaka) costs £2,500 per person. You could also add two nights at Toka Leya Camp in Livingstone for Victoria Falls. 42 SEPTEMBER 2014

GETTING THERE: South African Airways offer daily flights from London Heathrow to Lusaka, travelling via Johannesburg, for around £800 per person return. VISA REQUIREMENTS FROM THE UK: UK passport holders require a visa to enter Zambia, which can be obtained at your point of entry for US$50 per person.

TIPS & WARNINGS: Zambia is a malarial area and also has a danger of yellow fever. If you are passing through South Africa on your return

our chests – a clear challenge to Leonard’s dominance. From the ensuing silence, it seemed that the alpha male preferred to look the other way, his scar-free face perhaps indicating that he’s a lover, not a fighter. With the Musansa Boys moving deeper onto the plains and mating with the local females, the era of the Busanga pride could be coming to an end. In that case, the three cubs may be its last hope. Only through them will the tree-climbing skills of the swamp lions of Busanga survive. Our time on the plains was ending, but as we headed to the airstrip, we heard good news – the lioness had found her cubs. With such a super-mum, they have every chance of survival.

journey you will need a yellow fever certificate even if you are just in transit. Other countries you may holiday in will also ask for a certificate. The currency in Zambia is Kwacha, which must be used for all domestic transactions, including departure taxes. USD, Sterling, Euros and most major currencies can be exchanged at the airports. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs at the airport, while larger retail outlets and lodges or hotels accept major credit cards.

WHEN TO GO: From the beginning of June to the end of October.

TOUR OPERATORS WILDERNESS SAFARIS, Tel: +27 11 807 1800; www.wilderness-safaris.com (for direct booking) EXPERT AFRICA, Tel: 020 8232 9777; www.expertafrica.com RAINBOW TOURS, Tel: 020 7666 1250; www.rainbowtours.co.uk ABERCROMBIE & KENT, Tel: 0845 482 0510; www.abercrombiekent.co.uk

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Although itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a small eastern European country, Montenegro contains large areas of quietly beautiful and unspoilt mountains, forests, rivers and lakes, which are globally important habitats for resident and migrating birds, as well as brown bears and wolves. Lake Skadar, in particular, is a hidden gem just waiting to be discovered

One hundred and

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Take me there MONTENEGRO

one dalmatians WORDS BY RICHARD WEBBER

HE OLDER I GET, THE MORE I SEEM TO APPRECIATE THE BEAUTY OF OUR LIVING WORLD. THE “WOW” MOMENTS ARE INCREASING AND ON THIS OCCASION ANOTHER ONE WAS UNFOLDING BEFORE MY EYES. While the boat cut slowly through the peaceful water, its occupants – myself and five other passengers – gazed with undeniable awe. “It’s like a pterodactyl,” cried the boy next to me, pointing excitedly at the marvel soaring over our heads. I stared up at the huge bulk and had to agree: its angular shape, broad wings and elongated beak shining in the sun resembled those frightening flying reptiles from the Jurassic Period. Thankfully, our lives weren’t in danger. We were gliding along the still waters of Montenegro’s Lake Skadar admiring the dalmatian pelicans at this stunning spot, which has been a protected national park since 1983. For a tiny country, Montenegro has more than its fair share of treasures: not satisfied with the world’s second deepest canyon and Europe’s most southerly fjord, this 27-mile long lake straddling the border with Albania is the largest in the Balkans.

A dalmatian pelican in its breeding colours

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Tranquillity emanates from here and the air is filled with birdsong – not surprisingly it’s an ornithologist’s dream. Home to around 270 bird species – permanent residents and those passing through – it has lain in the shadow of Europe’s more fashionable lakes for far too long. The national park’s potential for specialist birding and wildlife trips has so far been largely untapped. Today, just a handful of companies spotlight the lake’s many birding opportunities. One such is Undiscovered Montenegro, launched by my hosts, British husband-and-wife team and Lake Skadar residents, Ben and Emma Haywood. Lake Skadar is a freshwater lake fed by the Moracea – originating high in the northern mountains 70 miles away – as well as myriad underwater springs. It’s best known for the dalmatian pelican colony which has existed here for over 150 years and is among the oldest such colonies recorded. Surrounded by lofty peaks, the lake marks the westerly edge of the species’ breeding sites. This year has been a record for the birds with over 100 residents. But fluctuating water levels (the lake’s circumference can increase from 360 sq km to 520 [140 to 200 sq miles] in winter) pose a serious risk and can devastate the colony’s fragile nests. Pelicans breed on small islets of accumulated peat, sometimes no bigger than a few

SEPTEMBER 2014 45

Surrounded by lofty peaks, Lake Skadar marks the westerly edge of the pelicansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; breeding sites

This page, clockwise from top: Lake Skadar and its surrounding mountains; a demoiselle dragonfly; the rich wetland habitat of this area of Montenegro; Dalmatian pelicans are now a protected species on Lake Skadar. Right: an adult fat dormouse

46 SEPTEMBER 2014

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Take me there MONTENEGRO

square feet – enough to keep them relatively safe from land predators. But the breeding zone, on the northern section of the lake close to the Albanian border in an area called Hum Bay, remains vulnerable to the elements. Ideas being considered to increase its stability include building a raft-like structure, a solid platform secured to the bottom of the lake by pillars. Unfortunately, potential problems include an unstable lake bed of layered peat. This year, no sudden water rises, coupled with major improvements in the practices of national park wardens, have helped the pelicans. However, other threats exist, including disturbance. From 2001, hunting has been prohibited but the breeding area is still used as a short-cut for fishing and recreational purposes.

TO SEE IN TOP 5 BIRDS MONTENEGRO 1

In summer the pelicans are scattered across the lake. Observing the bird is an experience at any time but its appearance is most impressive during the breeding season when its pouch and lower mandible turn bright orange. If you’re lucky enough to see them roosting on a sunny day, have your camera ready because they open their bill – which at around 45cm (18in) is the second longest in the bird world – and flap their pouch to cool off. The breeding zone is remote and unapproachable by car or foot. The only way to see it is by boat. Small motor launches sail from various small towns and villages fringing the shoreline, particularly Virpazar, the Gateway to the National Park, which sits at the confluence of three rivers. For 2015, Undiscovered Montenegro is planning smallgroup kayaking trips, exploring the lake’s old smuggling channels, paddling through swathes of lily pads and getting close to the birds’ habitat without disturbing the residents. All pelicans’ well-being is paramount and kayakers are

PYGMY CORMORANT The smallest of all cormorants and most dependent on freshwater, the pygmy breeds in southeast Europe and southwest Asia and is partially migratory. It chooses rivers, lakes and large pools, using sticks and reeds for its nests. Both parents play a part in incubating young which become independent after 70 days.

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DALMATIAN PELICAN Regarded as the world’s largest freshwater bird, it can weigh in at a whopping 11.5kg (25lb) and measure up to 1.8m (6ft) in height, with a colossal wingspan of up to 3.5m (12ft). Often silent, it nests in wetlands at various altitudes within temperate climate zones. It eats over 1kg (2lb) of fish each day.

SQUACCO HERON Inhabiting lakes and freshwater wetlands, the squacco heron chooses trees, dense vegetation or other areas above water level for its nest. It is small and stocky with a distinctive brown back and snow white wings, tail and stomach. Its diet consists of larval insects but it’s also known to eat small fish.

GOLDEN EAGLE Spotted in the mountainous regions, golden eagles like to nest on cliffs, where the female lays up to four eggs. With a wing-span up to 2.5m (8ft), adults are dark brown with paler colouring on the back of their crown and nape. It’s reputedly the most widely distributed eagle, and the best-known raptor in Europe.

SHORT-TOED SNAKE EAGLE Usually identified by its white underside and short neck, this eagle has been declining in recent years. It feeds mainly on snakes and lizards and lives up to 17 years. It hovers like a kestrel and has bright yellow eyes. Adults have a wing-span of around1.8m (6ft).

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Birds of Lake Kerkini in Winter 10 - 17 January 2015

Lake Kerkini National Park in Greece is a winter bird watching paradise and a haven for Pelicans, Waterfowl & Eagles! Let us take you on a week-long exploration of the Lake and the surrounding fields, forests, mountains and coastal lagoons to enjoy diverse and bountiful bird life!

www.greenwings.co Info & bookings Tel: 01473 436096 or Email: enquiries@greenwings.co

Take me there MONTENEGRO

EuroNatur Based in Germany, EuroNatur was established to protect the European nature heritage. One of the main aims is safeguarding migrating birds’ breeding grounds and winter resting places in Europe. The wetlands of Montenegro’s Lake Skadar and nearby salt flats at Ulcinj are globally important resting places for at least 23 migratory water birds species. The outflow of Lake Skadar (known as Buna in Albania and Bojana in Montenegro) creates a natural corridor of various habitats, including wet meadows, saltwater lagoons and riparian forests. The

One of the internationally active nature conservation foundation’s aims is to protect migrating birds as they cross Europe

river also forms a large delta with extraordinary biodiversity. EuroNatur (www.euronatur.org) regards the pressure on nature to be great, especially since the political upheaval of the early 1990s. Since then there are dangers from, among others, the uncontrolled development, illegal poaching, unregulated leisure activities and the construction of dams in areas that will impact directly on Lake Skadar and its surroundings. EuroNatur, together with local partner organisations in Montenegro and Albania, has mapped the precious natural features of the region to prove its ecological value and show how proposed

required to maintain a distance of at least 300m (984ft), a national park rule which applies until the chicks are 15 days old. Pelicans are delicate breeders and if spooked can flee their nests, leaving eggs exposed for hours. Inclement weather can mean eggs not hatching.

If you’re hiking, you should head for the observation point at the top of a hill named Hum, above the village of Podhum; it’s the only elevated point on this portion of the shore. Being some two miles away from the breeding site, though, a good pair of binoculars is essential. But Lake Skadar, which averages around 4.5m (15ft) in depth during summer, isn’t just about dalmatian pelicans. Its rocky shoreline and wetland areas are home to a myriad of birds, including 20,000 pygmy cormorants, the world’s second largest colony. Although the cormorant is common around the globe, the pygmy variation is only found in shallow freshwater wetlands. While the birds suffered a rapid decline during the 20th century, they’re now flourishing. Pygmy cormorants favour the southern part of the lake, nesting in deep, cup-shaped masses of reeds and sticks. Keep your eyes peeled for these black bodied birds, the distinctive characteristics of which include long tail feathers and a fluffed-up, quiff-like hairdo. Various herons, including the squacco, are often seen mingling with colonies of pygmy cormorants. If you can’t spot one, you’ll certainly know they’re present by their ear-piercing squawk, often given at night. Their almost tan-coloured back wildlifeextra.com

An adult dice snake on the shores of Lake Skadar

nature reserves can function successfully. The organisation has been working intensively to ensure the proper management of nature reserves and protective regulations are enforced, which is key to achieving the aim of protecting the wildlife in these regions. To date, EuroNatur’s efforts in Montenegro have seen areas of the country’s most unique landscape come under statutory protection; some environmental information structure has been established, not only to offer information on the conservation areas but to point out the hunting bans in force in the salt flats of Ulcinj. Regular controls of illegal bird-hunting activities have been improving the situation for migrating birds to a significant extent too. The organisation is campaigning for the connection of the separate habitats found in Montenegro with those found in neighbouring Albania. The aim of this is to create a “cross-border paradise” for the benefit of birds and many other forms of wildlife.

and white feathers on stomach and wings mean they are a particularly attractive bird, as are the kingfishers and little egrets – the list is endless. Other members of the species seen on the lake include the black heron. Normally found in Africa, south of the Sahara Desert, it was a frequent visitor to this birding hotspot during the 1980s. Later, sightings became virtually nonexistent but in more recent times the occasional bird has been recorded. With

SEPTEMBER 2014 49

their distinctive dark plumage, black herons boast an unusual method of hunting – canopy feeding – where they utilise their wings like an umbrella to create an area of shade over the water to attract prey. But it’s not just birdlife living in and around Lake Skadar. Cast your eyes into the water itself to see terrapins, including the highly endangered Balkan terrapin. Research financed by the UK-based Rufford Foundation, which offers grants for conservation projects, is being conducted by the Montenegro Ecologists Society to establish, if possible, the distribution and population status of the terrapin. In no such trouble are the Hermann’s tortoises with their attractive black and yellow patterned carapace. They leaves their shelter – usually hollows under bushes – in the early morning to warm up their bodies and forage for food before returning at the hottest part of the day. Evident in central and southern parts of Montenegro, usually in forests, the tortoises also wander into villages,

50 SEPTEMBER 2014

looking for food in gardens and orchards. Little research has been conducted on the reptile but it’s believed the number living within a hectare of land can be as high as 200. No trip to Montenegro would be complete without exploring the mountains. With the entire coastline enjoying a mountainous backdrop you don’t have to travel far before you’re surrounded by soaring peaks and deep gorges such as the Tara Canyon, the second deepest in the world at more than 1,200m (4,000ft). If you can brave the vertiginous E80 highway snaking its way inland, head for the Moracea Canyon. Despite being dwarfed by its big brother, the Tara, it’s still impressive, with perpendicular walls of rock stretching to more than 365m (1,200ft), as the road travels towards the Serbian border. Durmitor National Park in northwestern Montenegro comprises Mount Durmitor Plateau, with its highest peak over 2,400m (8,000ft), and the vast valley created by the River Tara. Much of the region boasts dense, primeval forests

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There are plans for kayaking trips, paddling through swathes of lily pads and getting close to the birds’ habitat without disturbing them

Take me there MONTENEGRO

Clockwise from right: a young European brown bear; the Bjelovac Cascade on the River Tara; whiskered terns guarding a nest; a Hermann’s tortoise; the River Crnojevica flowing round Pavlova Strana

clinging to mountainous slopes, cliffs and deep gorges, including 500-year-old black pines which have disappeared elsewhere in Europe. Here, areas are so remote that they’re virtually inaccessible to humans. Even more than at Lake Skadar, wildlife holidays are seemingly non-existent here, although trips are undertaken by some operators as part of a larger itinerary. Most wildlife sightings in the isolated northern regions occur while hiking or being involved in other forms of adventure holidays.

Brown bears still roam the thick forests and this year some were spotted crossing mountain roads. It’s believed that the population is increasing, although no sophisticated programmes to monitor their habits, movements or population have been implemented. National Park research estimates, however, that Montenegro’s bear population numbers are in the hundreds. Bears, which can measure nearly 4m (13ft) when standing wildlifeextra.com

on hind legs, are forest dwellers, usually moving during the night. Normally, signs of their movement can be seen, but not the animal itself. The timid Balkan lynx is even more elusive and exceptionally scarce – it’s believed that only 100 survive. Sometimes in the mountains the plaintive howl of wolves echoes through the seemingly impenetrable forests. While Durmitor, being a preserved ecosystem, is a good habitat for them, it’s believed that their numbers are low. One threat to their survival is humans: people still kill the animal, regarding them as pests and a threat to cattle. If you are visiting this region, it’s best to go with a wide focus: to enjoy the scenery, with any sightings of wildlife or birds viewed as a bonus. Among the 130 species of birds recorded as breeding in the national park you’re most likely to spot black woodpeckers, honey buzzards – normally seen in the coniferous forests feeding on bees and wasps – and, hopefully, golden eagle. The latter patrols a huge territory and is believed to still nest in

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Anatomy of an...

orangutan With a Malay name meaning ‘person of the forest’ the orangutan is one of our closest relatives and the only great ape outside Africa

Brain Orangutans are highly intelligent and solve problems using insight and reasoning. For instance, they employ sticks to extract honey from beehives and termites from nests, they chew foliage to make fibrous sponges to soak up water from tree cavities to drink. They will use a leaf as a ‘glove’ to protect their hands from spiky plants and will test the depth of a pool with a stick before they enter it. Every day they create a nest out of leaves and branches for sleeping in.

Hair Bornean orangutans have reddish-brown pelts; in Sumatra they are much redder and have longer beards. The colour acts as camouflage in two ways. In clearings in the apes’ habitat where they come down to drink, the red-brown sediment in swamp pools reflects light on the forest, giving everything an orange hue. Inside the trees, the dense foliage reflects the green wavelengths of light but absorbs the red, orange and violet, so anything red appears brown and therefore hard to see in the low light, especially to a predator looking up.

Digestion Orangutans forage in daytime and eat fruit, flowers, stems, honey, bark, leaves, nuts and insects. Their favourite food is the durian – a spiky, oval, melonsized fruit that smells like sick but apparently tastes like custard and garlic! Their mainly vegetarian diet takes them to weights of 33kg (73lb) in the case of females and 82kg (180lb) for males.

Arms A male orangutan’s arms can reach 2m (7ft) in length, from fingertip to fingertip. This is longer than the animal’s height of 1.2 - 1.5m (4 - 5ft), so its arms almost touch the ground when it’s standing. These long arms enable the primates to brachiate, or swing from arm to arm, better than any other ape.

Reproduction Orangutans only give birth every eight years from the age of 14. Males only stay with females for a short time, until they become pregnant. Gestation lasts for nine months. Youngsters live with their mother until seven or eight years of age, learning life skills. That’s longer than any mammal apart from humans. Orangutans don’t live in groups, but females usually have young of different ages with them.

ORANGUTAN CONSERVATION PROJECT You can have an opportunity to help conserve critically endangered orangutans by taking part in The Great Projects’ Samboja Lestari Orangutan Volunteer Project in Borneo. The aim of the project is to rehabilitate and subsequently release some of these magnificent apes back into their wild habitat. For more details go to: www.thegreatprojects.com Tel: 0208 885 4987

Where in the world?

There are two species of orangutans, Bornean (Pongo pygmaeus) and Sumatran (Pongo abelii), which, as their names suggest, are found on the islands of Borneo and Sumatra. Their solitary habits and vegetarian lifestyle necessitate large personal spaces for foraging, with 1 sq km of rainforest in Borneo only providing habitat for up to three orangutans. In the richer forests of Sumatra the same area can sustain six or seven. There were said to be 315,000 orangutans in the wild 100 years ago. Now there are thought to be 35,000 on Borneo, but only 6,600 on Sumatra. Deforestation for logging and palm oil affects them badly, and young orangutans are also prey to the trade in exotic pets.

Head

Male orangutans grow a beard and moustache when they become adults, whereas females’ faces remain relatively hairless. Males also grow throat pouches and large cheek pads of fibrous tissue that continue to grow lifelong. These are thought to help to project the animal’s call over longer distances. So, the older the ape the bigger the pads and pouches, and the louder and more dominant the voice. They keep others away by sending out moans and howls, called ‘long calls’, which penetrate the forest by up to 2km (1.2 miles).

Hands and feet

Long, flexible fingers with flat nails and sensitive fingertips, as well as opposable thumbs, give orangutans the precision and delicacy of touch needed to fashion tools. Their feet are equally flexible and strong enough to grasp branches to help them climb high in the treetops. They walk on their fists, as opposed to the knuckle method employed by gorillas.

ULTIMATE walking safaris WORDS BY SHEENA HARVEY

Nothing will get you closer to African wildlife than avoiding the well-driven safari trails and setting out on foot to explore the continentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous national parks, conservancies and game reserves with an experienced guide

56 JUNE SEPTEMBER 2014 2014

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Ultimate

WALKING SAFARIS

NAMIBIA MUNDULEA RESERVE The highly endangered black rhino is the animal to search for in this small reserve close to Etosha National Park. Other rarities include roan antelope, black-faced impala, pangolin and tsessebe, all animals that were close to extinction but are being preserved and encouraged to increase here. Of course, you can also find some of the big cats, cheetah and leopard, giraffe and zebra and a whole host of hooved wildlife – kudu, oryx, eland, wildebeest and the delicate little dik-dik. The terrain is made up of open plains with waterholes, and small hills called kopjes. There is a good selection of birdlife, with eight species of kingfishers, seven bee-eaters and seven types of nightjars to name but a few. Migrants species visit during the rains from November to April. In nearby Etosha there are vast saltpans which attract both greater and lesser flamingos and blue cranes by the thousand. The hills on the reserve are peppered with gorges and caves which can be explored. The rougher terrain caters for those who want a more strenuous hike, Unexpected moment although these are not obligatory. There is plenty of scope for gentler walks and time Coming across a family of banded spent in hides watching animals come to a mongoose emerging from an abandoned termite mound waterhole. In the evening you can relax where they have spent the night. around a campfire, listening to the sounds of the African bush at night.

Who will walk with me? Expert Africa, Tel: 0208 232 9777; www.expertafrica.com

The black rhino is the species to see in Mundulea Reserve

A striped hyena

KENYA LAIKIPIA PLATEAU One of Kenya’s lesser known wildlife areas, this remote wilderness has more endangered species than anywhere else in East Africa. The whole plateau is dedicated to preserving wildlife with the original farming ranches forming conservancies, many of which are run by the Maasai community. The acacia bush and extensive grasslands make for relatively easy walking and open views for spotting wildlife. There are also lots of camps and accommodation at cattle ranches for a close-to-nature experience. The area has the highest diversity of large mammals of anywhere in Kenya, being a sanctuary for elephants, lions, leopards and buffalo. It has 50 per cent of Kenya’s black and white rhinos and is one of the few places left where you can find African wild dogs, Grey’s zebras and reticulated giraffes. The birdlife is also impressive, from Unexpected moment Somali ostriches to Seeing a lion sporting a collar African crowned – it will be the dominant eagles to tiny male called Mufasa on the cisticolas, and 48 per Lewa Conservancy, who is cent of Kenya’s fitted with a GPS tracker as documented species part of an ongoing study. live on the plateau.

Who will walk with me? Kenya Away, Tel: 0121 472 1541; www.kenyaaway.com

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WALKING SAFARIS

A group of geladas baboons in the Simien Mountains

ETHIOPIA SIMIEN MOUNTAINS Not for nothing is this region known as the ‘roof of Africa’ as its highest point stands at 4,533m and the volcanic landscape is a dramatic series of tall mountains and steep escarpments. There are three main vegetation zones in the National Park: the lowest being montane forest, rising to the Sub-Afroalpine, or Ericaceous belt, followed by the Afroalpine. In the montane forest you will find the greatest biodiversity, with bushpigs, black and white colobus monkeys, vervet monkeys, geladas and hamadryas baboons. The cat family is represented by the leopard and the serval, both of which can be elusive. There are also many bird species of an Abyssinian variety (Abyssinian oriole, catbird, woodpecker, etc) this being the name given to the ancient Ethiopian empire which incorporated modern day Eritrea and northern Ethiopia. Hooved mammals tend to occupy the Sub-Afroalpine level where giant versions of the Erica shrub can be found. These include the klipspringer, walia ibex and grey duiker. The common jackal is one of the predators that lives at this height, alongside the Unexpected moment bearded vulture and thick-billed raven. A bushpig following a troop of Lastly, if you have the stamina to monkeys so it can benefit from climb as high as the Afroalpine level, a feast of half-eaten fruit the which starts at 3,700m, you can find the monkeys discard along the way. Ethiopian wolf and the spotted hyena.

Who will walk with me? World Expeditions, Tel: 0800 0744 135; www.worldexpeditions.com

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Magnificent whalesharks travel conveniently close to the surface to make even snorkel encounters possible

GAMBIA ABUKO NATURE RESERVE Being a small and narrow country in West Africa, the variety of habitats in the Gambia are all within easy reach of each other. It is on the edge of the West African forest so it offers riverine areas, marsh, rainforest and savannah. Abuko reserve was the first to be created in the country and it is the nearest tropical rainforest to Europe. What is properly known as tropical riverine forest, or gallery forest, the landscape is covered in majestic trees spiralling up from huge buttress roots, with trailing creepers and parasitic plants clinging to the trunks. As you wander the reserve’s crooked bush trails you come across ponds and pools where you can find crocodiles and an abundance of birdlife. In fact, the country as a whole is best known for some of the world’s best birdwatching. In Abuko you can enjoy both giant and pygmy kingfishers, palm nut vultures, 60 SEPTEMBER 2014

violet turacoes, Abyssinian rollers, red-bellied flycatchers and lanner falcons, to name only a few. Four species of primates live in the reserve – red colobus monkeys, red patas, vervet monkeys and bushbabies. Aside from the three species of crocodile – Nile, West African and dwarf – the reptiles in the park include green mambas and spitting cobras, pythons and monitor lizards, Unexpected moment although none of Finding a parcel of green leaves them are likely hanging from a tree, covered in to hang around the weaver ants that have long enough to ‘stitched’ the leaves into a nest. terrorise the unwary walker.

Who will walk with me? Responsible Travel, Tel: 01273 823 700; www.responsibletravel.com

Above: green vervet monkeys with a red colobus in the background. Here: a pygmy kingfisher

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MADAGASCAR MULTIPLE NATURE RESERVES

Ring-tailed lemurs grooming

Its size and isolation from mainland Africa has turned this huge island into a biodiversity heaven. A large proportion of its wildlife is not found anywhere else in the world. Of approximately 200,000 species, 150,000 are unique to the area and these include, of course, the island’s most famous inhabitants, the lemurs. There are a total of 50 living species and subspecies of lemurs on Madagascar and the neighbouring Comoro Islands – from the tiny pygmy mouse lemur, as long as your thumb, to the sifaka, which is as chunky as a large domestic cat. For amphibian enthusiasts, walking around the rainforest amongst its pools and damp undergrowth is a must, as 99 per cent of the 300 frog species you see here, in all sizes and in many different, bright colours, you can see nowhere else. The variety of insects with elaborate camouflage strategies is fascinating, too. There are a number of different mantid and stick insects that mimic twigs, and leaf bugs that resemble foliage and flowers. Millipedes are common foragers on the forest floor and Unexpected moment climbing trees and when they roll up defensively Coming across an aye-aye in the they look like shiny seeds or polished pebbles. They forest at night, using its can grow up to a foot in length and have two pairs elongated middle finger to dig of legs for each of their body segments, which can grubs out of the bark of a tree. number from 20 to 100.

Who will walk with me? Explore!, Tel: 0843 634 5908; www.explore.co.uk

South African giraffes in Kruger NP

SOUTH AFRICA KRUGER NP This is one of the largest game reserves in Africa with huge variety in scenery and wildlife. Around the main park lie a number of other parks and private reserves through which the animals wander freely. In particular, the Timbavati Game Reserve is home to a small number of indigenous white lions that became famous after they were the subject of a book by South African farmer Chris McBride, published in 1977. In

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Kruger, more than almost anywhere else, a walking safari will get you away from the Jeeps and 4x4s for a more natural, intimate experience that puts you most in rhythm with the wilderness. And it will deliver wildlife… lots of it. This is a land of superlatives, with 100,000 impala, 30,000 Burchell’s zebra and 14,000 blue wildebeest. All of the Big 5 animals number in the thousands, rather than the hundreds recorded in many of the other national parks in Africa. The park has a list of more

than 500 birds, Unexpected moment including the Birders’ Big 6: Seeing and hearing a pair of Bateleur eagles in a courtship ground hornbill, flight, performing steep dives Kori bustard, and 360° barrel rolls, and lappet-faced making loud wing claps. vulture, martial eagle, Pel’s fishing owl and the saddle-bill stork.

Who will walk with me? Jenman African Safaris, Tel: 0871 284 5010; www.jenmansafaris.com

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Adventure Safaris throughout Southern Africa

Botswana 14 days camping safari from GBP1,369 South Africa 17 days accommodated safari GBP1,541 Guaranteed departures. Maximum 12 clients.

WALKING SAFARIS The best guided walking safaris in Africa. For the astute traveller - remote locations, quality camps and lodges, top guiding and outstanding wildlife.

+27 11 465 4905 marketing@sunway-safaris.com

www.timefortravel.co.uk 01798 867750

www.sunway-safaris.com

www.basecampkenya.com

Experience the Migration with Basecamp Explorer and get front row seats to one of the greatest spectacle on earth BASECAMP MASAI MARA Experience the diversity of the Masai Mara. EAGLE VIEW, MARA NABOISHO Indulge in the luxury of one of the 25 Best Eco-Lodges in the World, voted by National Geographic Traveller Magazine. DOROBO BUSH CAMP, MARA NABOISHO Explore unmatchable luxury of simplicity in the heart of the Savannah.

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Basecamp Explorer Kenya, nominated as one of the 3 Finalists for the 2014 WTTC Tourism for Tomorrow Awards. Go to www.wttc.org to ďŹ nd out more

Ultimate

WALKING SAFARIS

A group of elephants is a formidable sight if you are on foot

This country has more natural water sources than anywhere else in Southern Africa and it shows in the variety of wildlife it has to offer. South Luangwa, a national park since 1972 and the place where walking safaris were made famous, takes in the Luangwa River with its oxbow lakes. This has been dubbed one of the greatest wildlife sanctuaries in the world, with 60 different animal species and 400 different birds. And they come in great numbers. Apart from herds of elephants, the indigenous Thornicroft’s giraffe and Cookson’s wildebeest, there are estimated to be about 50 hippopotamus per kilometre of the Luangwa Unexpected moment River, as well as numerous crocodiles. Large prides of lions Coming across a family of can also be observed. baboons who are picking The most numerous of the 14 through a pile of elephant species of antelope the park has to dung for undigested seeds. offer is the impala, which can be pelicans, black-headed and goliath seen in herds all over the area. Also herons, yellow-billed and marabou found in small herds are Crawshay’s storks. Nesting in holes in the sandy zebras, an endemic subspecies of the riverbanks are flocks of carmine plains zebra. bee-eaters. These iridescent birds arrive The advantage of being able to walk in August to breed and stay until January. along a river bank is obvious to a bird Aside from the fauna, the lush lover as you can find hundreds of riverine flora of South Luangwa wading birds in the shallows, including

A lion cub just hanging around

includes an impressive selection of trees including giant red mahogany, and hard black ebony.

Who will walk with me? Robin Pope Safaris, Tel: +265 (0) 179 4491 / 5483 www.robinpopesafaris.net

TANZANIA NGORONGORO CONSERVATION AREA The Ngorongoro Conservation Area was briefly part of the Serengeti National Park from 1951, when it was formed, to 1959. The land is multiuse, meaning that human habitation is allowed but wildlife is fully protected. Maasai cattle graze the grasslands alongside antelope and zebra. As a result, it has been described as the only place on earth where mankind and wild animals co-exist in harmony. The area covers three extinct volcanic craters, a gorge and large stretches of forest, grass and bush lands and contains some 25,000 animals. Stars of the show are the 26 black rhinos and 62 lions, but the numbers of zebra and antelopes, such as Thomson’s gazelles and eland, Unexpected moment as well as 4,000 buffalos cannot fail to impress. The annual wildebeest migration passes through Hearing the roar of a dominant male the area, not that you’d want to be on foot black and white colobus monkey, anywhere near that! followed up by the equally exuberant roars of his neighbours. Who will walk with me? The Explorations Company, Tel: 01367 850 566; www.africanexplorations.com

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ZAMBIA SOUTH LUANGWA NP

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Sunway Safaris Walking South Africa

South Africa is a country rich in dramatic scenery, wildlife, culture and history. A 14-day walking adventure takes you through some beautiful regions of South Africa and Swaziland

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Cost rating: *** Sample package tour: Sunway Safaris is offering a 14-day accommodated, small group, walking tour through South Africa in 2015 for Â£ 1,340 pp sharing, excl flights. This accommodated tour includes: The Panorama Route, a Big 5 Game Walk, Kruger National Park, Swaziland, iSimangaliso Wetland Park, Zululand and the Drakensberg Mountains. Getting there: This tours starts and ends in Johannesburg and regular flights can be taken from the UK to Johannesburg in South Africa on a variety of airlines. Flight time is approx 11hrs (direct). Flights are easy to organise and run daily. Visa requirements: British passport holders will be issued with a 90-day travel visa on arrival in South Africa and a 30-day tourist visa for the Swaziland part of the trip. Tips & warnings: This is a walking tour and includes eight walks graded from leisurely to challenging. It is suitable for all ages, but a basic level of fitness is required. Bring good walking shoes which give ankle support. When to go: South Africa is an allyear destination. Summer days are long and warm, winters are chilly in early mornings and evenings. The days should warm up nicely.

Tour operator: Sunway Safaris Tel:+27 114 654 905 Email: sunway@icon.co.za www.sunway@icon.co.za

Although not much bigger than the Isle of Wight, Malaysia’s Langkawi Island is home to an array of unique wildlife, including flying lemurs, which can be found living on the jungle-covered slopes of the country’s oldest mountain. Just don’t mention the polar bears... WORDS BY MARK EVELEIGH

AFLYINGVISIT

Trip Report

PULAU LANGKAWI, MALAYSIA The imposing mountains and beautiful beaches of Langkawi tempt sunworshippers and wildlife lovers alike

WE DON’T MENTION

snakes

IN MY FAMILY. The fact that my girlfriend is South African and grew up on game reserves doesn’t seem to have done anything to diminish her fear (bordering on panic) of serpents. So we refer to them – and only when we absolutely have to – as polar bears.

Clockwise from top: Temurun Waterfall is a popular place to cool off; a group of dusky leaf monkeys; the swimming pool at The Datai Langkawi hotel; the ‘Junglewalla’, Irshad Mobarak; a long-tailed macaque spies on Mark’s girlfriend Narina

68 SEPTEMBER 2014

It turns out that there are a lot of polar bears on Pulau Langkawi, the largest island of the Langkawi archipelago off the coast of northwestern Malaysia. And the locals seem to talk about them a lot. Even before the hotel car had purred away from the airport the driver was telling us about snakes that are so numerous, and of such spectacular size, that you frequently see them from the road. “But don’t worry,” he said, “the poisonous ones aren’t on the roads. They stay deep in the rainforest.” An hour later we were in the lounge at The Datai resort sipping frosted glasses of Tiger beer with resident naturalist Irshad Mobarak. Malay TV’s famous ‘Junglewalla’ was recalling his experiences while filming a TV documentary on forest elephants on the mainland when he dropped the bomb. “The biggest wild creature I’ve seen on this particular island though,” he said, pausing for effect, “was an absolutely huuuge reticulated python.” We were due to venture deep into the rainforest – in virtually the same region this monster had been seen. Fortunately, despite her

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Colugo confusion

Above: Narina and guide Shaaban Arshad cross a jungle river. Left: a placid water buffalo

phobia, Narina is used to trekking in snake country – it’s just a matter of practice after all. You keep your eyes peeled, watch the trail and, if you’re obsessive enough about it, you very quickly become adept at untangling the camouflaged pattern of polar bear skin from the tangled roots all around your feet. You just keep your eyes fixed on the trail and… “Langkawi is home to what I call the Fabulous Flying 5,” Mobarak continued. “Africa has its Big 5 but we have flying lemurs, flying squirrels, flying foxes, flying dragons…we even have flying snakes.” Needless to say, Narina and I hadn’t come to this remote island in the Straits of Malacca looking for flying polar bears. We were in search of the mysterious colugo, the fascinating creature that’s also known as the flying lemur, cloaked monkey or skin monkey.

THREE DAYS LATER we were in the middle of a tropical monsoon, staggering up the slope of Langkawi’s Machinchang Mountain with our eyes peeled for this flying primate. Mobarak had left us to return to the Malaysian mainland and I imagined that he’d been disappointed to miss out on our badly timed, late monsoon jungle trek, but he’d actually seemed quite relieved to be handing over the responsibility to his deputy, Shaaban Arshad. Arshad looked every inch the tough jungle man with his short Malay parang (machete) tied around his belt with a piece of no-nonsense rattan vine. He had already proved his worth with softly spoken advice on which plants to use to treat cuts or ease upset stomachs, between wildlifeextra.com

The fascinating colugo is often known as the flying lemur or the cloaked monkey, or even the skin monkey. In fact, from the time it was discovered naturalists seem to have been unable to decide just what to call this bizarre creature. “It’s certainly the strangest animal on the island and has caused science no end of confusion since it was first described in 1757,” explains naturalist Irshad ‘Junglewalla’ Mobarak. “Carl Von Linnaeus, the father of taxonomy, first classified it as a gliding primate – Dermoptera (you could call it a ‘skin monkey’). “Later he was declared wrong, and in subsequent years the colugo continued to be shifted from one pigeonhole to the next. Now it seems that new DNA evidence suggests that Linnaeus was indeed correct and that the colugo may be a type of flying primate after all.” These bizarre creatures seem to do most of their arboreal base-jumping only in the evenings, and during the day it is only the paler-coloured females you tend to see hanging, wrapped inside their leather capes, on the trunks of the tallest trees. The Datai Resort (www. dataihotels.com) is one of the best places in the world to see these unique creatures in action and resident nature guide Mobarak is delighted to count them as the stars of his popular nature walks. Far beyond the normal realm of nature walks, Mobarak’s enthusiasm for the field of biomimicry has enthralled everyone from the most high-powered company CEO to animal-avid children. “We just have to watch and learn,” he smiles in delight, as he relates how the beak of the kingfisher has given us a model for more efficient high-speed trains; how the humble begonia plant can teach us how to maximise solar energy; how we’ve learned from the coral polyp how to make cement at ambient temperatures.” Irshad Mobarak describes himself as an ‘optimistic conservationist’, not what you usually find. “We’re rare creatures,” he admits, “but basically I believe that if we are intelligent enough to learn from nature, and to adapt as evolution has taught us, then we still have a chance of undoing the harm we’ve done to our planet.”

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How the flying lemur (or should that be cloaked monkey?) defied scientists

recommending the leaves that make good substitutes for toilet-paper. He even showed us how to milk a tree, releasing prodigious quantities of a liquid that looked and tasted very like milk, with a shallow machete slice in its bark. He shunned our plastic bottle of leech repellent lotion and showed us instead how to mash a cigarette in palms moistened with spit, and to plaster the resulting tobacco mulch around our ankles. The jungle floor is crawling with leeches during the wet season and Arshad explained that simple instant coffee is the best treatment for stemming the bleeding. (Presumably it also disguised the scent of blood that brought other thirsty leeches looping towards us). Narina handled her first leech attacks staunchly and only seemed to be minimally grossed out by the bloodsucking critters that tried to work their way optimistically ever northward up our legs, leaving spreading circles of scarlet even after they had drunk their fill and fallen off. More impressively, she seemed not to have been permanently traumatised by the bright-green, metre-long polar bear that had prompted her to perform an impromptu and impressive sword-dance as it slithered between her boots.

WE TRUDGED DOGGEDLY ONWARDS for several hours – blood and mud squelching in our boots – towards a pass just below Machinchang’s highest peak, somewhat awestruck by the fact that we were climbing the oldest mountain in the Malay Peninsula. Some 550 million years ago this ancient rock had been part of the supercontinent of Gondwanaland (comprising what would later become Australia, Africa and South America). Then, 250 million years ago, tectonic forces pushed Machinchang Mountain above the surface of the sea to create Langkawi. Glacial dropstones from the Antarctic have been found on Machinchang that date back an incredible one-billion years. After the mountain rose above the sea, continuous weathering has eroded the great ridge into a series of dramatic peaks. Beneath the canopy of this dense rainforest it was difficult to see anything at all and we had to take Arshad’s word for it when he said that the locals had counted no fewer than 44 peaks running along Machinchang’s ridge. The ‘weathering’ seemed to show little sign of letting up as we climbed ever upwards, and had barely eased at all by the time Arshad led us to a relatively open patch of mountainside where we made a camp of jungle hammocks fitted with mosquito-nets and roofs (tents are almost useless in steep, densely forested terrain). That evening we sat around a fire that was

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PULAU LANGKAWI, MALAYSIA

Ancient oak woods crowd out the fir plantations and the pure air carries only the scents of sea and forest puffing generously with insect repellent smoke from a heap of carefully selected leaves, as Arshad told us about his jungle apprenticeship. His first few trips up here had been with the famous Langkawi shaman who was his grandfather: “We camped here while we looked for jungle medicine. Especially a plant called tongkat ali,” he cast a bashful glance towards Narina. “Some people believe it’s traditional Viagra.” He told us they’d also collected wild honey and, in the monumental 40m trees, would often find as many as 15 hives. They had a special system for harvesting from these dangerously buzzing skyscrapers: “When the tree was that infested we had to tackle them at night. I’d leave a lantern at the bottom of the tree and climb up in the dark with just a smouldering coconut husk. When I got close I’d blow on the husk so that the sparks would fall. The bees would get angry and chase the sparks down. While they tried to attack the lantern I’d be cutting the honey out of the nests,” he laughed. In those days traditional hunting was still considered sustainable. They could harvest the same nest twice and still get up to 20kg of honey the second time. After that, however, they would move on and leave the bees in peace. In his teenage years Arshad would come with his friends and a pack of dogs to hunt mouse-deer. In one hunting trip he claimed they could bag 60 of the little deer and it’s hard to imagine that any population could sustain that sort of onslaught.

Clockwise from top: the Machinchang mountain range and forest reserve; keeping up fluid levels is vital in the humidity; a water monitor; a dusky leaf monkey; Shaaban Arshad showing how to milk a tree

HOWEVER, TIMES HAVE CHANGED and hunting is

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prohibited here now. The chic tourist resorts down on the coast have brought an alternate source of revenue to the area and Arshad is now one of the region’s leading guides. These days he spends his time trekking these remote hills with adventure-seeking tourists via Irshad Mobarak’s Junglewalla operation. As I boosted the fire under the smoke-blackened kettle next morning, I was surprised by the harsh cackling call of a flock of curious hornbills that had come to investigate this bizarre invasion of their mountain. Across much of South East Asia hornbills are considered to be good omens, and as we clambered up the treacherously slimy slope towards the mist-shrouded peak of Machinchang we could only hope that they would provide a boost to our own

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TRIP ADVISER

COST RATING

SAMPLE PACKAGE TOUR: The Datai Langkawi can tailor specific accommodation and wildlife tour packages together with Junglewalla. The rate for a five-night stay in a deluxe room with breakfast, non-motorised water sports, paired with a Junglewalla jungle trekking tour starts from GBP 1,175 for two persons (flights not included). See www.dataihotels.com and for more information on the Junglewalla’s Natural History Tours see www.junglewalla.com.

GETTING THERE: Return flights from Heathrow or

efforts, but the monsoon mist was here to stay and allowed us just the merest glimpse of the view northwards to the islands of Thailand.

ON OUR DESCENT DOWN the other side of the mountain we had several rivers to cross and the coffee-coloured current swirled and tugged powerfully around our legs. The rain began to lash down even more persistently when we reached our last camp that afternoon and continued to fall unrelentingly for 13 hours. There was a brief pause that brought a squadron of flying ants battering optimistically at the mesh of our mosquito-nets and once I heard a ghostly cry from the trees above us and wondered if maybe it was a colugo, a cloaked monkey. I remembered hearing a similar call while staying in a camp in central Borneo, where the noise had worried my Dayak guides: “If a colugo calls,” they whispered, “it means someone in camp will die.” It’s strange how human beings often feel a need to endow even the most harmless of creatures with deadly traits, but the following morning our final descent passed without incident. I couldn’t help being disappointed. After surviving the mountain’s leeches and polar bears, I only wished its magnificent flying lemurs had been so keen to grace us with their presence. 74 SEPTEMBER 2014

Above: the tropical paradise of Datai Bay. Below: the peculiar little colugo or cloaked monkey

VISA REQUIREMENTS FROM THE UK: British nationals do not need to apply for a visa to visit Malaysia. You will normally be given a stamp (no charge) on arrival for a stay of up to 3 months.

TIPS & WARNINGS: Langkawi is a popular tourist island so there a good choice of shops and places to eat in and around the main town, Kuah, and at the resorts. The island follows the Kedah state practice of having Friday and Saturday as the weekend. Taxis can be hired for exploring but have no meters so the price should be fixed with the driver before the trip. There are some dangerous jellyfish present in the sea between May and October.

WHEN TO GO: The best time to visit is between March and September, when humidity is lower and rainfall is relatively isolated (although there’s a reason why they call this the rainforest). Sea breezes stop temperatures from climbing much above 30°C. September and October tend to be the wettest months. Monsoon-style downpours will limit the trekking potential and few boats will operate in stormy rainy season conditions. TOUR OPERATORS

STEPPES TRAVEL Tel: 0843 634 7162 www.steppestravel.co.uk KUONI Tel: 01306 856 729 www.kuoni.co.uk JASMINE HOLIDAYS Tel: 0333 7000 747 www.jasmineholidays.co.uk wildlifeextra.com

Ancient oak woods crowd out the fir plantations and the pure air carries only the scents of sea and forest

Manchester to Langkawi – for example via Kuala Lumpur with MAS – cost from £519 and take approximately 15 hours (visit www. roundtheworldflights.com; Tel:020 7704 5700).

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SEPTEMBER 2014 75

ESSENTIAL CHILE Your complete wildlife-watching guide

78 WHY?

For sheer diversity, the “string bean” of South America is hard to beat

80 WHERE?

Sharon Chester offers her guide to the vast array of wildlife-rich habitats across north, south and central Chile

92 WHAT?

Vicuña (see left), puma and lesser rhea are just a few of the species that have made it onto our must-see list

97 HOW?

Everything you need to know before booking your wildlife-watching trip

By comparison to some of its South American neighbours, Chile looks like a small country with a much lower profile, but it punches above its weight with its astonishing array of natural features, wildlife habitats and diverse species WORDS BY SHARON CHESTER

POETRY MOTION in

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ESSENTIAL CHILE WHY?

The elusive and officially protected puma is just managing to survive in the modern world

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ontinental Chile, a long “string bean” strip of land on South America’s Pacific coast, spans some 38 degrees of latitude, a distance of 4,345km from north to south, yet it is barely 200km in total from east to west. Its landscape is of singular diversity, one so varied and unique that it prompted the famed Chilean laureate and politician Pablo Nerudo to write, “Whoever created Chile must have been a poet.” Majestic snow-capped Andean peaks, 46 of them active volcanoes, guard the country’s eastern border. The Humboldt Current parallels the western sea coast, where its nutrient-rich upwellings support an extraordinary abundance of marine life. Between these two natural boundaries lies the Central Valley, a longitudinal depression that begins near Arica and ends near Puerto Montt, some 2,600km to the south. The northern sector houses the vast Atacama Desert where, in some spots, no rainfall has ever been recorded. Further south, the desert yields to winter rainfall. A cactus-studded terrain gives way to matorral scrubland and savannas dotted with thorny trees, then on to the country’s densely populated cities, and orchards and lush vineyards all nourished by rich alluvial soils. The southern regions of Chile, from Valdivia to Magallanes, are largely covered in pristine temperate rainforests that descend to deep fjords, some lined by icy blue glaciers. It is much colder here than in the north and rain falls more evenly throughout the year. Only the Patagonian steppe, which lies in the rain shadow of the Andes, escapes the continual downpours that water the forests. The steppe is a rolling, windswept wilderness of great majesty and beauty, a place where grasses wave in synchrony with the chilly wind, and where rheas and guanaco roam at will. Sprinkled across this remarkable landscape are 36 National Parks, 49 National Reserves, and 15 National Monuments that the Chilean government has set aside to preserve native flora and fauna. Over 120 mammal species, over 400 species of birds, and some 2,400 species of native plants can be found in the protected areas. Thanks to frequent domestic airline services and an excellent tourist infrastructure, it is possible to sample a variety of Chilean wildlife habitats in as short a period as two or three weeks. SEPTEMBER 2014 79

MY CHILE RODRIGO VILLALOBOS Veterinarian and field ecologist Loneliness, extreme landscapes, unique nature. These could be words to define one of the less known and more beautiful lands in the north of Chile, the Altiplano. This place is home to one of the rarest and most threatened wild cats on earth, the Andean cat. To look for these extraordinarily elusive animals, you need to hike to a plateau 4,000m above sea level, where there are wild camelids and the cat’s main prey, vizcacha. You will need to look up, scrutinising the cliffs looking for Andean cats. But even if they escape your sight, you will marvel at the majesty of the Altiplano and its guardians, the high Andes mountains. www.wildnet.org/wildlifeprograms/andean-cat

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Northern Chile A coastal desert extends along the western slopes of the Cordillera de la Costa from Arica to La Serena, a distance of 1,275km. Most of the coast receives less than 50mm of rain annually, yet supports a rich diversity of plants with many endemics. This can be attributed to a fog called the camanchaca, which drifts in from the ocean each morning, sweeps up the coastal mountains, and condenses on the seaward slopes, forming “fog meadows”. South of La Serena, at Fray Jorge National Park, the camanchaca sustains a Valdivian moist forest with trees, ferns, and lianas that typically grow a thousand kilometers to the south. The forest receives all of its moisture from the fog that condenses on the leaves and waters the rich flora beneath. Every few years, August rains reach the northern coast. Wildflower seeds that have lain dormant for years germinate and burst

into bloom in the “Flowering Desert”. You can witness the phenomenon north of La Serena at Llanos de Challe National Park, and also see the rare, endangered lion’s claw (Leontochir ovallei) in flower. The boats of Chile’s flourishing fishing industry, attract marine mammals and seabirds to the ports. A scan of the harbour jetties and rocks can yield views of southern sea lions, marine otters, Peruvian pelicans, Peruvian boobies, Inca terns, and guanay cormorants – the “Billion Dollar Birds” of the guano trade. Boat trips to see wildlife on the outer islets can be arranged at the Humboldt Penguin Reserve north of La Serena, where you can see not only nesting penguins, but also a pod of bottlenose dolphins. Chile’s northernmost city, Arica, is the staging point for excursions to Lauca National Park. Birders will want to explore the town environs before leaving and watch out wildlifeextra.com

ESSENTIAL CHILE WHERE?

Clockwise from far left: Vicuñas graze in Lauca National Park; a yellow variety of the rare lion’s claw; Magellanic penguins; the vizcacha, favourite of pumas

for tamarugo conebills, slender-billed finches, seaside cinclodes, Peruvian sheartails, oasis hummingbirds, and endemic Chilean woodstars. The 100km drive from Arica to Putre takes about three hours. This ancient Aymara town is situated below the Nevados de Putre at 3,500m elevation. It is a good place to overnight and acclimatise before heading on to Lauca’s headier heights. You can explore the ancient agricultural terraces and groves of queñoa (Polylepsis tarapacana), some of the world’s highest altitude trees. Taruca, small native deer, are regularly seen on the rocky slopes near Putre. Tinamous, seedsnipes, flowerpiercers, Andean hillstars and sparkling violetears have all been recorded around the town. Lauca National Park is the jewel of northern Chile. Its abundant wildlife, snow-capped volcanoes, and turquoisecolored lakes and lagoons make it one of the “must-see” destinations for nature enthusiasts. Most of the park lies on the altiplano, a treeless plain with a mean wildlifeextra.com

elevation of 4000m. Resinous tola scrub (tolares), dry grasslands (pajonales), and permanent wetlands (bofedales) form the floral landscape called the puna. Here and there you find a cushion plant called Yareta that forms a solid mat over boulders, covering them with what looks like green fondant icing. Lauca’s most breathtaking sight is that of Lago Chungará, one of the world’s highest lakes, reflecting the perfect cones of Parinacota and Pomerape, twin volcanoes that rise to over 6,200m. The water shimmers with the movements of giant coots, puna ibises, puna teals, Andean ruddy ducks, flamingoes and Andean gulls. Near the park entry, the rich grasses of a roadside bofedal attract wild vicunas and guanacos. The nearby rock piles (roqueríos) have a colony of mountain vizcachas, large herbivores related to chinchillas. They usually can be seen outside their burrows sunbathing, dozing, or grooming their dense fur. With their long furry ears, they look a lot like brush-tailed rabbits. Farther into the park, a trail through SEPTEMBER 2014 81

ESSENTIAL AZORES WHERE?

Here: Andean flamingos sift for nutrients in the saline waters of Atacama North. Below: Laguna Verde with Licancabur Volcano in the background

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While you’re there... Epicureans may want to taste the violet coloured, tangy olives produced in the Azapa Valley near Arica or have a Pisco Sour prepared with egg white, lime juice, simple syrup, and pisco, a Chilean brandy made from grapes grown in Coquimbo’s Elqui Valley. Water sport aficionados can surf the “El Gringo” waves at Arica (left) or scuba dive off the islands near the Humboldt Penguin Reserve. Archaeology buffs should visit the Archaeological Museum of San Miguel de Azapa near Arica or the Le Paige Museum at San Pedro de Atacama. Both have extensive exhibits dealing with pre-Incan culture. Other places of interest near San Pedro include the Tatio Geysers (below), the old village of Chiu-Chiu, and the Valle de Luna, a moonscape with spectacular rock formations and ruins of old Chilean salt mines. Finally, remember to look up into this planet’s clearest night skies. You might just see the Southern Cross constellation.

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the Parinacota village bofedal provides views of earthcreepers, ground-tyrants, chat-tyrants, diademed sandpiper-plovers and flamingos, or parinas, that give the town its name. South of Lauca is the remote Salar de Surire Natural Monument. The saline ponds are the best places for photographing Andean, Chilean, and James’s flamingos and the salt flats for seeing suri rheas, armadillos, and montane guinea pigs. The Salar de Atacama lies in the high desert some 200km inland from Antofagasta. The area can be accessed by flying from Arica or Santiago to the mining center of Calama, or by driving across the desert from the coast. The Salar de Atacama is the largest salt flat in Chile, encompassing 3000 sq km and measuring about 100km long by 80km wide. Its average elevation is 2300m. The salar and saline ponds, which are home to large numbers of flamingos, are backed by a line of volcanoes, including beautiful Lincancábur and Láscar, the most active volcano in Chile.

ESSENTIAL CHILE WHERE?

Here: Conguillio National Park in Araucania Province, the Lake District of Chile. Below: a diademed sandpiper-plover

MY CHILE ALVARO JARAMILLO Tour guide/photographer Many of my favourite places to look for wildlife are unique, different, or hark back to a time when wildlife was all there was, before civilisation, parking lots and highways. One such place is off the historic port of Valparaiso, looking for birds and other wildlife in the cold waters of the Humboldt Current. It may be ironic that I feel like I am in a wilderness when I am standing on a motorised vessel, but when I look to the horizon, the white caps, feel the wind, and hear the calls of the kelp gulls and pink-footed shearwaters, I am transported to that place where nature rules. To me it is the equivalent of tundra with polar bears, or the Serengeti. It is a gorgeous and wild place. www.alvarosadventures.com

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Central Chile La Campana National Park in the coastal mountains west of Valparaíso is noted for its hiking trails to summits with spectacular views, and for the fact that Charles Darwin climbed to the top of Cerro La Campana in 1834, an event he recorded in The Voyage of the Beagle. The park sustains a great variety of forest types including fog forests, Nothofagus or “false beech” forest with relict stands of endemic Roble de Santiago, and sclerophyll forests, climbing vines, and Chusquea bamboo. The Ocoa sector contains a rare stand of Chilean palms (Jubaea chilensis), the world’s southernmost palm, whose sap is used to make palm honey and whose nuts are used in pastries and confections. Chilean

tinamous, Chilean hawks, Chilean flickers, Chilean swallows, Chilean mockingbirds, white-throated tapaculos, dusky tapaculos, and moustached turcas are often seen along the many trails. Mammals are present here, but they are shy. However, there is always the chance to encounter a grey fox, hog-nosed skunk, or a colony of degus – rat-tailed octodonts that live in communal burrows in the sclerophyll woodland. Sites of special interest to birders include the El Yeso Reservoir in the Andes east of Santiago where you can see condors, diademed sandpiper-plovers, and endemic crag chilias. The El Yali Reserve, south of Valparaiso, is an important coastal wetland for more than 115 species of SEPTEMBER 2014 85

ESSENTIAL CHILE WHERE?

While you’re there...

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waterbirds and waders. North of Valparaíso, the port of Quintero offers pelagic trips to the Humboldt Current to see albatrosses, storm-petrels, diving-petrels, and other seabirds. As you move into south-central Chile, precipitation increases and conifers begin to appear in the deciduous forest. Cordilleran Cypress (Austrocedrus chilensis) can be found in the Andean foothills at Río de los Cipreses in the O‘Higgins Region and at Radal Siete Tazas in Maule. Here the rivers cascade through valleys edged by high mountains, burrowing parrots nest on the sandstone cliffs, and torrent ducks challenge the river rapids. Farther south in Araucanía, you find the Araucaria, or monkey puzzle tree, so named because on seeing it, an English gardener commented that the tree would be a puzzle for a monkey to climb. Araucaria occurs at two of the national parks: Conguillio–Paraguas in the Andes and Nahuelbuta in the coastal mountains. The parks house many of Chile’s more elusive mammals – South American grey foxes, weasel-like lesser grisons, and native cats that Above: a Patagonian range in size from extra large pumas to grey fox defends its prey. diminutive kodkods. A perusal of the bamboo Below left: a torrent understory might reveal a small dusky bird with a duck living up to its name. Right: Velo de la continually cocked tail – an ochre-flanked Novia, or Bridal Veil Falls tapaculo, whose surname is said to derive from the Spanish for “cover your behind”.

Chile’s wine-making history dates back to the 1550s, making it the oldest wine-producing country in the Americas. Most of the Central Valley wineries (right) have tasting rooms and shops, and some have added overnight accommodation and gourmet restaurants to their offerings. Unable to visit the vineyards? No problem. Almost every restaurant, no matter how humble, offers a choice of vintages suitable for accompanying fresh seafood from the coast or locally raised lamb and game. The beach resort of Pichilemu holds several surfing championships each year at Punta Lobos, widely considered the best surfing and windsurfing beach in South America. If you’d lke to try your hand at daredevil kayaking (left), Radal Siete Tazas (“Seven Cups”) along the Río Claro in Maule has seven consecutive natural pools with their respective waterfalls. Kayakers can navigate the falls with vertical drops under 10.5m, but have to scramble ashore if they want to avoid the big 40m drop at Bridal Veil Falls.

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COLOMBIA MEGA DIVERSITY ProAves reserves protect almost 12% of the Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bird species and other species in critical danger of extinction

El Dorado reserve located in the majestic Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, provides a fantastic landscape of the snow-capped peaks and the Caribbean beaches below. Protects over 300 bird species with 19 endemics besides 16 species of mammals and 30 of amphibians.

www.ecoturs.org | www.eldoradoreserve.org UK: +44 208 543 2083 | Colombia: +57 1 2876592

MY CHILE CLAUDIO F VIDAL Naturalist/photographer There’s so much to say about Chile. But the south, where dense oldgrowth forests stretch into the distance, deserves a special mention. There, where the world ends, begins mythical Patagonia, a magical realm, a windswept land of rolling hills and endless plains, with landscapes so imposing and majestic it’s no wonder it has captured the imagination of countless explorers over the centuries. Vast grasslands, jagged mountain ranges, fjords and forests of Southern beech are all here, where wildlife like puma or king penguin are permanent presences. What a setting to discover the southernmost wildlife of the American continent! www.farsouthexpeditions.com

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Southern Chile Osorno and the beautiful Lake District, Los Lagos, lie to the south of Valdivia. Puyehue National Park and nearby Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park are rugged wilderness areas created by glaciation and volcanism. River rapids flow foaming and powerful through canyons of black volcanic rock. Wetland meadows (mallines) with tall grass, rushes, and Guaitecas Cypress meld into rainforests with a dense understory of mosses, lichens, bamboo, and ferns. Magellanic Coigüe and Lenga cover the uplands and their deciduous foliage turns the slopes into a mosaic of reds and golds in autumn. The parks are one of the few places where you can see the endemic Eroessa butterfly and view birds such as the slenderbilled parrot, Austral parakeet and black throated Huet-Huet. Puerto Montt is the gateway to the Chilean fjords. The Puerto Eden Ferry sails between

Puerto Montt and Puerto Natales year round, and the Skorpios cruise line travels through the fjords to Laguna San Rafael National Park from September to April. Laguna San Rafael encompasses the entire North Patagonian Ice Fields (Campos de Hielo Norte) and contains the tallest peak in the southern Andes, Mount San Valentín at 4,058m. The impressive cobalt blue San Rafael Glacier measures 4km from end to end. It’s receding about 182m each year and, if you’re lucky, you may see huge pieces of ice calve off. The park shelters a rich variety of wildlife, including black-browed albatrosses, black-necked swans, flightless and flying steamer-ducks, condors, gree-backed firecrowns, elephant seals, sea lions, dolphins, and marine otters. The Pan-American Highway, which begins in Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, ends just southwest of Puerto Montt on Isla Chiloé. At the height

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ESSENTIAL CHILE WHERE?

Clockwise from far left: sea lions at Isla San Sebastian; an Andean puma at Torres del Paine; black-browed albatross at Cape Horn; the imposing ice wall of San Rafael Glacier

of the 1598 Mapuche uprising, the island’s small Spanish colony became isolated from the mainland for almost 250 years. Intermarriage with the native peoples resulted in a unique mestizo culture that is still very much alive on Chiloé. A 30-minute ferry ride across the Chucao Channel transports the traveller to a shore lined with colorful houses on stilts, a hillside of centuries-old wooden churches, and a rustic handicraft market shingled in native Alerce. Chimango caracaras and turkey vultures sit on every rooftop and black-faced ibises sound their clanking calls from treetop nests of twigs. Sea and forest converge in a wild, singular landscape in the nature reserves on the western and southern shores. The forests sustain a number of rare species, including Darwin’s Frog, Darwin’s Fox, the little marsupial called monito del monte, and the world’s smallest deer, the pudu. Marine fauna includes Magellanic penguins, sea lions, marine otters, and the blue whales that regularly feed off the western coast. A left turn out of Puerto Montt will take you on to the Carretera Austral, which continues 1,240km along the Patagonian Andes to Villa O’Higgins in Aisén. More than 10 parks and reserves exist along this

scenic, albeit cold and rainy route. The largest is Parque Pumalín, a nature sanctuary established by American business magnate, Douglas Tompkins. The park provides visitors an outstanding wilderness experience, with cabins, visitor centres, and extensive trails through an evergreen broadleaved rainforest that extends from the mountain glaciers all the way down to the ocean. The park protects stands of the endangered, millennia-old Alerce trees and provides habitats for nutrias, pumas, endangered huemul deer, and 71 species of birds. The port city of Punta Arenas (“Sandy Point”) lies on the Strait of Magellan’s northern shore across from Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego. On windy days albatrosses and giant petrels soar over the strait, while Imperial cormorants rest on the abandoned piers amid an array of South American terns, and dolphin and kelp gulls. Punta Arenas is a departure point for road trips to Torres del Paine National Park. The highway travels 312km across the windswept grasslands of the Patagonian steppe to the town of Puerto Natales along the shore of Última Esperanza Sound. From there it’s another 123km by partially paved road to Torres del Paine. The park’s main attractions are the Towers (the “torres”) of SEPTEMBER 2014 89

ESSENTIAL CHILE WHERE?

Paine, three gigantic granite monoliths sculpted by glacial ice. Visitors can opt to make one- to eight-day treks around the towers or simply sit back and enjoy the spectacular scenery with grassy meadows, winding rivers, waterfalls, mirror-like lakes, Magellanic forests, and cobalt blue glaciers. Wildlife is overwhelmingly abundant and it is not uncommon to encounter it is not uncommon to encounter herds of guanacos, flocks of upland geese, and rheas with their chicks running behind them. If you’re the type to be inspired and thrilled by nature at its most pure and awesome, this is one of those special places in the world that is well worth a pilgrimage.

Situated just 21km from Puerto Montt, Puerto Varas has flowerlined streets (right), German and Swiss architecture, and camera-ready views of the Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes reflected in the still blue waters of Lake Llanquihue. Be sure to try some handmade chocolates, locally made beer, meat dishes, and sliced pork (lomito) sandwich, a Chilean favourite. The Futaleufú River in northern Patagonia is renowned for its deep blue waters and white water currents. Rafters and kayakers consider “The Futa” to be one of the world’s top whitewater destinations. Anglers will want to head to the rugged Río Simpson National Reserve known for its trout and salmon fishing.If you’ve dreamed of stepping ashore at Cape Horn (left), the small expedition ships of the Australis Line has cruises from Punta Arenas through Beagle Channel, with landings at Cape Horn (weather permitting) from November to March.

Top: Grey Lake in Torres del Paine National Park. Above: an adult guanaco silhouetted against the dramatic Torres mountains. Left: a flock of cormorants congregate on the abandoned pier at Punta Arenas

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While you’re there...

A NEOTROPICAL BIRDWATCHING PARADISE!

Guyana Tourism Authority

National Exhibition Centre, Sophia, Georgetown, Guyana, South America T:+5922190094-6 | F:+5922190093 E: info@guyana-tourism.com | W: www.guyanabirding.com facebook.com/GuyanaTheAmazonAdventure @tourismguyana

From big cats to little amphibians there is a world of colourful wildlife to be found throughout Chileâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mountains and plains

Ones to watch 92 SEPTEMBER 2014

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ESSENTIAL CHILE WHAT?

Lesser rhea Rhea pennata The ostrich-like lesser rhea is found in two separate areas of Chile. The Suri or Puna rhea occurs in northern Chile on the altiplano grasslands and salt flats above 3,500m. The Avestruz de Magallanes or Darwin’s rhea inhabits the grassy steppes of Patagonia. These birds have long yellow legs that enable them to run at speeds up to 60km per hour. To flee danger they run in zigzag patterns or squat in vegetation to avoid detection. In breeding season, the male uses wing-fluttering displays and deep calls to attract hens. Several hens will mate with a successful male, and deposit a collective total of 20 to 30 white eggs in his nesting scrape on the ground. The male alone incubates the eggs for 40 days, and when all are hatched he leads the little striped chicks away from the nest. The male tends the fledglings for several months, keeping them together with whistling calls. If some chicks stray away, another male with his own young will often adopt the lost chicks. Spotting tip: Suri rheas are very shy and are most often seen running across the distant highland flats. Darwin’s rheas, on the other hand, permit human approach and can often be found grazing along the roadside among flocks of sheep..

Humboldt penguin

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Spheniscus humboldti The Humboldt penguin was named in honour of 19th-century German naturalist Alexander Humboldt who described the species. It is also called a “jackass penguin” because of its braying call. This small black-and-white penguin is pelagic in waters of the Humboldt Current from Isla Foca, Peru, south to Islas Punihuil in Los Lagos. It nests in burrows dug into guano or on bare rock in sea caverns. Nesting colonies are often situated on top of sea cliffs amid stands of cactus. There are two breeding periods – April to May and September to October. Both parents incubate the two white eggs and raise the brood. The chicks leave the nest at about 12 weeks of age and forage along the coast until they return to their natal colony at about two years of age. Current population in Chile is about 8,000 breeding pairs, with the largest colonies at the Humboldt Penguin National Reserve and Pan de Azucar National Park in Atacama. Spotting tip: The Humboldt penguin has a single black band across its white chest, a feature that distinguishes it from the double-banded Magellanic penguin, which overlaps its range in southern Atacama. SEPTEMBER 2014 93

Puma Puma concolor Pumas are widespread throughout the Americas in mountains, woodland and steppe, from sea level to 5,000m elevation. Yet these magnificent cats are seldom seen, since they avoid people and hunt during twilight hours. Males have extensive territories that they mark with urine and excrement. A single male shares his territory with one or more females, which den in hollows under trees or rock overhangs. In Chile, females deliver in December and the cubs remain in the den until May, when they make their first outings with their mother. At this time of the year, with growing cubs to feed, the female is more likely to be seen hunting during daylight hours. Spotting tip: Torres del Paine National Park is one of the best places to see pumas in Chile. There are an estimated 50 to 100 in the park, a population sustained by large numbers of guanaco, the pumaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main prey. Consider employing the services of expert trackers and local guides who know these big cats to find you one.

These magnificent cats are seldom seen, since they avoid people and hunt during twilight hours 94 SEPTEMBER 2014

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ESSENTIAL CHILE WHAT?

Vicuña Vicugna vicugna Vicuñas – the smallest and rarest of the South American camelids – inhabit the semiarid grasslands of the Andean altiplano. They live in small family groups of five to 20 animals with a single adult male, several females, and their young crias. Vicuñas have long been valued for their very soft wool. The Incas held chacu festivals in which hundreds of people herded the animals into stone traps. The vicuñas were then sheared and their wool woven into robes for royalty. After the Spanish conquest, entire populations of vicuñas were killed for their hides. Overhunting continued into the 1900s and by mid-century fewer than 10,000 vicuñas remained on the altiplano. At that time Chile, Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, and Ecuador agreed to protect the herds and regulate the commercial trade of hides and wool. In 1983, Chile established La Reserva Nacional Las Vicuñas, south of Lauca National Park, where an estimated 12,000 vicuñas now live. Spotting tip: Vicuñas tend to congregate in the wet grasslands, or bofedales, where they can feed on nutritious grasses and find drinking water. These animals are very shy and alert, so for the best viewing experience take the slow approach, use your vehicle as a hide, and keep conversation and noise to a minimum.

Long-tailed chinchilla Chinchilla lanigera Chinchillas are endemic to the mountains of north and central Chile. These small rodents form loose groups called herds that live in rocky crevices or burrows dug into sandy hillsides. Seeds, grasses, cactus fruit, and bromeliad bulbs form the bulk of their diet and they drink water from the dew found on the rocks and shrubs in the early morning. Females are the dominant sex. They mate in austral winter and deliver a single young after a gestation of 111 days. Esteemed since pre-Incan times, the chinchilla’s silky gray fur reached its height of popularity in the late 1800s when nearly half a million pelts were exported annually to the European fur trade. Overhunting brought the species to the brink of extinction and today both the longtailed and short tailed chinchilla species are Critically Endangered. Spotting tip: Chinchillas are a protected species in Chile and can be seen at Las Chinchillas National Reserve in Coquimbo. The best time to visit the reserve is at dawn and dusk when the chinchillas are most active.

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ESSENTIAL CHILE WHAT?

Rhinoderma darwinii This 3cm long amphibian is named after Charles Darwin who discovered the species in 1834. With its green and earth toned back, triangular head, and long pointed snout, it looks like a fallen leaf, so it plays dead when threatened. It remains motionless in the leaf litter or, more dramatically, hops into a stream, flips onto its back, and floats away on the current. It has a unique form of parental care known as mouth-brooding. The female lays up to 40 eggs, which the male fertilises and guards for three weeks. Just as the eggs are ready to hatch, the male takes them into his mouth. The embryos slide through vocal slits under his tongue and develop in his large vocal sac. Some 50 to 70 days later, the male spits out a brood of fully formed froglets.. Spotting tip: Look for this frog on the forest floor where it likes to bask in sunlight. During the November– March breeding season, males call constantly, with an even-paced piip-piiip-piiip-piiip, and long pauses.

Darwin’s Frog

South American sea lion Otaria flavescens South American sea lions, also known as maned seals, can be found along much of South America’s coast and offshore islands. They were hunted for food, pelts and oil from prehistoric times until 1907, when they became a protected species. These are the most sexually dimorphic of the sea lion species. Males weigh up to 300kg, and have a massive neck and chest with a golden mane. The much smaller females lack the male’s large neck and head, and weigh about 140kg. Bulls reach the breeding beaches in Chile around November and establish territories that will eventually contain a harem of three to 10 females. The females arrive at the rookery after the males, ready to deliver pups conceived the previous year. Pups are born about three days after the mother’s arrival, and she usually mates about seven days after giving birth. At this point the female leaves her pup with other pups in the rookery and begins a cycle in which she feeds at sea for three days then returns to nurse for two days. The female and pup may remain together for six months or more. Spotting tip: The best time to see these animals is when they are on the breeding beaches from November through to February.

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ESSENTIAL CHILE HOW?

Factfile COUNTRY FACTS Location: Southwest South America Capital city: Santiago Terrain: desert in the north; fertile central valley; low coastal mountains; high mountain ranges in the east Highest point: Ojos del Salado (6,893m/22,615ft) in the Atacama region Population: 17.5 million Most widely spoken language: Spanish Currency: Chilean peso Time zone: GMT – 4 hours Flight time from the UK: 15 hours Visas: if visiting for fewer than 90 days, UK citizens do not need a visa Vaccinations: Hepatitis A, typhoid and tetanus Climate: because it is south of the equator, the seasons in Chile are the reverse of the UK, ie summer spans Christmas and winter is in the middle of the year WHEN TO GO Southern Chile for Torres del Paine is best visited in austral spring (November and December) summer (December through March) and autumn (March and April) as they can be inaccessible in austral winter (June through September). Central Chile is best in late austral winter and into spring (September to November) or during austral autumn (late February into April). North Chile’s Atacama Desert can be explored all year, but austral summer days are very hot and the nights are very cold at higher altitudes. In the northern altiplano, austral summer is also the rainy season, which usually means afternoon downpours. TIPS & WARNINGS Earthquakes are a fact of life in this volcanic country but most modern buildings are built to withstand them. Heed signs on the beaches that say ‘no apto para bañar’ or ‘peligroso’ as these signal that it is not safe to swim because of strong currents. Violent crime is very rare but petty pickpocketing is a hazard in built-up areas. Don’t take photographs near military installations. If you are travelling in the Andes, give yourself time to adjust to altitude. Make your journey in stages and avoid vigorous exercise, alcohol and heavy meals. It can also be very cold in the mountains so take layers of clothing. Tap water in the cities is drinkable but contains a lot of minerals which can upset the stomach. Bottled water is best for rural areas. Rabies is present all over South America so always consult a doctor if you’re bitten or scratched by any animal. A hire car may be necessary to get to the remoter

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national parks but for general travel in Chile there is a good, punctual and reasonably priced system of long-distance buses. Internal flights, although not cheap, save a lot of time getting from Santiago to Arica, for example, which is a 28-hour bus journey. ACCOMMODATION NORTHERN CHILE Hotel Qantati Located on the outskirts of Putre, the nearest village to Lauca National Park, this no-frills, small hotel has good views down the valley and hummingbirds in the garden. http://hotelqantati.blogspot.co.uk/ Tel: 5658-228916 CENTRAL CHILE Olmue Natura Lodge Wood and stone luxury cabins with kitchen facilities and covered terraces close to La Campana National Park. The hotel also offers spa treatments and a heated swimming pool. www.olmuenatura.cl Tel: (+569) 982 459 85 SOUTHERN CHILE Hotel Rio Serrano In the countryside, just on the edge of the Torres de Paine national park with spectacular views of the mountains. You can book various excursions from the hotel to the park with a guide, including a condor lookout point. http://www.hotelrioserrano.cl Tel: +56 61 222 4181

Classic Itinerary A 14-day whirlwind tour that will give you a taste of the very best wildlife that Chile has to offer

Arica

Calama

Santiago to Arica DAYS 1-5 ■ Lauca National Park and Surire ■ Native deer, Andean hillstars, mountain cats

Arica to Calama DAY 6-7 ■ Explore Atacama and overnight at San Pedro de Atacama ■ Chilean flamingos, vicunas, grey foxes

SANTIAGO

Calama to Santiago DAY 8-9 ■ Overnight at Valparaiso ■ Albatrosses, stormpetrels, rheas

MORE INFORMATION http://chile.travel/en/ TOUR OPERATORS Naturetrek Tel: 01962 733051 http://www.naturetrek.co.uk/wildlife_holidays_ in_chile.aspx Wildlife Worldwide Tel: 0845 130 6982 www.wildlifeworldwide.com/discover/chile

Santiago to Punta Arenas and back DAY 10-14 ■ Explore Punta Arenas and Torres del Paine ■ Guanacos, dolphins, pumas, Andean condors

Explore! Tel: 0843 634 6182 www.explore.co.uk/destinations/ south-america/chile Punta Arenas

Greentours Tel: 01298 83 563 http://www.greentours.co.uk/Americas/ Northern-Chile-2012/

SEPTEMBER 2014 97

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Theknowledge Your wildlife travel survival guide

HOW TO SKILLS VOLUNTEERING BOOKS DVDS KIT LIST PHOTO WORKSHOP How to...

Conduct a wildlife study Ecologist Dr Elizabeth Pimley reveals how to conduct a scientific study based on her experience of researching small nocturnal primates

or many years I have been interested in small, nocturnal primates (pottos, angwantibos and bushbabies) inhabiting African rainforests. I’ve undertaken research in Uganda, Cameroon, Kenya, Nigeria and Ivory Coast to unravel the mysteries behind their nocturnal lives, with a particular focus on the potto. In this, my work has followed the classic lines for conducting a wildlife study. If you want to find out about wildlife that comes out in the rainforest after sunset, you need to head out with some good lights fitted with red filters. The forest at night is a noisy place; a cacophony of frogs, bats, tree hyraxes, palm civets, bushbabies and owls. As your eyes grow accustomed to the dark you begin to pick out movements between the trees and, if you look carefully, the reflective eyes of nocturnal animals illuminated by the torch. In fact, once you become accustomed to the forest sounds and sights you can differentiate different species from their calls, with the long howls of the palm civet, the rhythmical croaks from frogs and the hoots of owls. There is a variety of bushbaby calls from long distance contact calls to brief alarm calls if you get too near. Even with the more silent nocturnal animals, however, it is possible to distinguish them by their eyeshine. In the case of the potto this is a distinctive orange. Other nocturnal animals also have distinctive eyeshines ranging from small orange/yellow of large moths, frogs and bats, pale blue of palm civets and gennets (cat-like carnivores), and yellow-orange of bushbabies. The next phase of my particular project is

Elizabeth checks one of her potto traps

to carry out long-term studies on the Eastern (P. ibeanus) and Western potto (P. potto). In order to set up a long-term study it is essential to carry out a short-term survey at the proposed fieldsite to determine if there is sufficient abundance of the animals to make a study worthwhile. You also have to assess viewing conditions in the forest to be sure you can get good observational data. And you have to check if the population is trappable. The only way to study primates that live up in the forest canopy, is to put a radio collar on individuals and track them. My long-term study of the Central potto (Perodicticus edwardsi) and Cross River Allen’s bushbaby (Sciurocheirus cameronensis) in Cameroon, revealed much about their ecology and behaviour. Another important factor of a long-term

study is to ensure the necessary logistics are in place, for example good transport links. With nocturnal work, a power supply is essential for torches and tracking equipment. You also have to ensure that links with local NGOs and government departments are set up and there is support for the research. Finally, you need support from local communities around the proposed fieldsite and reliable field assistants. Logistical arrangements are already in place for my long term study of the Western potto in Ivory Coast, which the local research institute (Centre Suisse de Recherches Scientifiques en Côte d’Ivoire/Tai Monkey Project) is keen to facilitate. So now I just need to secure extra funding and find a keen student to carry out the study with me…

Dr Elizabeth Pimley is a Research Associate in Biosciences, University of Gloucestershire and Senior Ecologist at Worcestershire Wildlife Consultancy. Email: epimley@glos.ac.uk

Write and tell us about your wildlife experiences by emailing editorial@wildtravelmag.com wildlifeextra.com

SEPTEMBER 2014 99

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Skills

Add a little extra know how to your wildlife-watching adventures with the help of our expert mini-guides

Insider’s guide to...

Relocating giraffes Giraffes may need relocating for conservation reasons but moving a tall leggy blonde is not straightforward says Will Travers, CEO of Born Free Foundation

irst, you identify the giraffe(s) you wish to move – usually a mixture of males and females, preferably young adults with long-term breeding potential. Then, you drive as close as possible to each without spooking them, so are you able to dart them. It is important not to panic the animals because this can lead to high levels of stress which can be fatal. Once it’s darted, you follow the giraffe at a distance as it lumbers off. When it begins to slow down (usually after about eight minutes) you leap out and, with others, run alongside it with a rope. As gently as possible you trip up the giraffe, and as soon as it goes down you put a hood over its

head. This helps keep it calm and stress-free. Next, you bring up your giraffe translocation vehicle – a trailer with high sides but no top. The trailer needs to be big enough to contain the giraffe but not large enough for it to move much in any direction. The sides of the trailer should come to the top of a giraffe’s body but not up to the head. You administer the reversal agent while at the same time making sure that there are ropes around the giraffe’s neck and legs allowing only limited movement. With six to 10 strong individuals holding the ropes, you manoeuvre the now-standing giraffe (still with the hood on) into the trailer. Once it’s safely in, the hood can be removed. As soon as possible afterwards, you drive your giraffe to the relocation destination. When we did this with the Kenya Wildlife Service and the conservationists from Malewa, crowds gathered along the roads and in villages. It was an extraordinary sight. At the relocation site, you unload your

giraffe into a small, secure holding enclosure, minimising noise and disturbance. Over a few days, the animals should be evaluated by a vet to ensure that there are no unexpected injuries and to make sure stress levels are low. Once the vet is satisfied, it’s just a matter of deciding on when to open the door – an event that, in our case, brought tears to everyone’s eyes when eight Rothschild’s giraffe cantered into the bush.

Nature skills

Making a bee hotel Housing solitary bees is important for pollination, explains Paul Hetherington from Buglife Not all bees live in a big social hive, solitary bees, such as masons or leaf-cutters, live alone. You will know if you have leaf-cutter bees around, in particular, because you may notice some of your garden plants have half moon or full-circle shaped cuttings taken out of the leaves. These are made by the leafcutters with their scissor-like mandibles. Solitary bees like to nest in hollow plant stems so you can help them to prosper by making nesting spaces in your garden.

100 SEPTEMBER 2014

You will need: ● Hollow plant stems or bamboo canes ● Garden twine or string Saw or knife to cut the canes ● A nail or hook to hang up the bee hotel Method: ● Step one

Cut the hollow plant stems into 10-20cm sections ● Step two Tie a bundle of 15-20 tubes together with garden twine or string

● Step three

Hang the bee hotel in a sunny but sheltered spot about 2m above the ground. You will know if a solitary bee is in residence if the hollow tubes are blocked up. A female will usually use one tube and create a series of cells, each with a food parcel of pollen and nectar inside for the grub. The adult seals the end of the tube with mud or a perfectly sized section of leaf.

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Theknowledge

Volunteering Project profile

Voluntourism

Surveying

Managing expectations with ORCA

Before signing up for that dream volunteering trip, first consider what to expect when you’re in the field, writes Nancy Gard McGehee

ne of the most important parts of a volunteer tourism experience takes place before you leave home. Preparation is key to a successful trip, and here are a few important questions you need to ask both the organisations you are researching and, more importantly, yourself! Getting there – organised or independent?

If you crave independence, social media offers the ultimate word of mouth recommendations, and testimonials on organisations are easy to find. If you have the luxury of a long-term stay, you can take a few chances and go the independent route. If you are only able to volunteer for a short time, say less than a month, you have more to lose by getting off to a rocky start. Levels of comfort

Sit down and be honest with yourself. Sleeping in a hammock in a hut with no water or electricity may sound adventurous, but do you have experience of living under such conditions? Does an eight hour day of hard labour match your fitness level? And perhaps most importantly, are you a ‘people person’ who craves constant interaction, or do you need time alone to relax and reflect? Complete communication of information about housing conditions, type of volunteer work, and typical daily schedules are all signs of a good volunteer organisation. Who are the project leaders?

This may be one of the most important components of a truly fulfilling volunteer tourism experience. As you plan, find out if the project leaders are members of the community as opposed to outsiders who simply come through with groups from time to time. If they are the latter, how much time have they spent in that location? Volunteer team make-up

Are you interested in going with a group of like-minded volunteers similar in background, age, skill set, and values, or is

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a diverse volunteer team part of the experience that you are craving? Current group feedback suggests that smaller groups (15 or fewer) work better than larger groups as the individual needs of group members can be accommodated without disrupting the group as a whole. Local communities – interaction, involvement, and benefit

While many volunteers are primarily interested in a nature-based volunteer experience, research shows that most people also want a meaningful exchange with local residents. Much of the responsibility for this lies with you. Can you at least speak a few basic phrases of the language? Do you know major cultural dos and don’ts? Make sure that you select an organisation that has close ties to the community. Are the activities community-driven? Is the organisation transparent about where its funding is going? If these criteria have been met, then you will find yourself being welcomed by the locals. Nancy McGehee is Professor in Hospitality and Tourism Management at Virginia Tech, and author of Volunteer tourism: evolution, issues and futures in the Journal of Sustainable Tourism, published by Taylor & Francis

Katrina Gillett talks about being a marine mammal surveyor volunteer for the conservation charity ORCA What do we need to know about ORCA? It is a whale and dolphin conservation charity that is dedicated to monitoring, studying and protecting cetaceans in UK and European waters. What made you decide to become a volunteer surveyor? I have always had a passion for the marine environment and becoming a surveyor with ORCA allowed me to really experience marine life in the wild. ORCA aims to engage the public, and get them involved in its work. It helps to raise awareness for marine mammals while also collecting data vital for scientists What does the volunteer work involve? Living on board a ship for 1-3 days at a time between the months of March-November, scanning the sea from dawn till dusk for marine mammals. When a cetacean is recorded the electric excitement you feel is incredible. You don’t need to have any qualifications to become a surveyor, just go to an ORCA one-day Marine Mammal Surveyor training course. What has been most memorable? The abundance and variety of marine life that I’ve seen, and the people I’ve met. Memories for me include a breaching pod of killer whales, and the reactions of passengers to seeing these elusive creatures for the first time... an excitement that never gets old! Why does it matter? The more the public knows about what is out there and how close it is, the greater the chance we have of collecting information about cetaceans that enables informed decisions to be made about them. To find out more about how you can become a surveyor with ORCA pay a visit to: www.orcaweb.org.uk/get-involved/train SEPTEMBER 2014 101

YOU’LL GO A LONG WAY TO FIND A BETTER APP

The NEW World Travel App, NOW available and FREE to download from

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Bookshop

Times Comprehensive Atlas of the World

5 minutes with...

Nick Jans The Alaskan writer talks to us about his new book, A wolf called Romeo, which tells the extraordinary story of how a lone wild wolf befriended the local community where he lives Tell me about the book It is the true story of a 120lb, wild black wolf who befriended dogs and people in Juneau, Alaska, for six years. Even after living this story for seven years and spending another three writing it, and with thousands of pictures I took, the whole experience still seems unreal, something I dreamed. Why did you decide to tell this remarkable story? First, this was a story I needed to tell – not only to others, but to myself. I needed to understand all I could about this wolf and the complex web of events that his appearance created, for my own sake. Romeo’s been gone for nearly five years, and I still find myself choking up at odd moments. It’s not something you get over; the experience was too intense, the loss was too great. My final reason for writing this book is to bear witness to the life of this one remarkable wolf. As long as a single person reads, hears, remembers his story, Romeo lives. Are wolves a common sight around Juneau? Even in deep wilderness, wolves are a rare sight. Most Alaskans go their entire lives without so much as glimpsing a wild wolf, so having the opportunity to see one and to know him as an individual really was

an extraordinary experience, one that was bordering on the surreal. How did locals first react ? Pretty much everyone was amazed, and when we realised he wasn’t going anywhere, that sense of astonishment and wonder only deepened. He might as well have been a unicorn, an alien from another universe. The agencies responsible for our wildlife management were as bemused as all of us. What to do with a wild, oddly sociable and tolerant wolf? Does anyone know where Romeo came from? No one can say for sure. In the book I examine the possibilities, which are informed by natural history and science; my own 35 years experience around wolves; and journalistic investigation. He was either a surviving member of a pack that was decimated a few miles away by trapping, plus a pregnant female being killed by a car the year he showed up; or he was a young male who had broken away from his natal pack – dispersing, it’s called – and found himself a home at the edge of civilisation.

A WOLF CALLED ROMEO, Nick Jans, Ebury Press RRP £7.99 Our price £6.99, quote WT054

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IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Jethro Lennox et al (Collins, RRP £150) Our price £99, quote WT055

Published on September 25, STAR BUY this 14th edition of the atlas has 1/3 OFF! been completely revised. New features include illustrated articles on energy and climate change, a spread on the Arctic Ocean and the addition of over 50 major waterfalls of the world.

A History of Birdwatching in 100 Objects David Callahan (Bloomsbury, RRP £20) Our price £14.99, quote WT058 An exploration of things that have shaped birdwatching across the centuries. These fascinating items range from the dodo at the Horniman Museum in London and a 19th century pair of ‘bins’ , to the 1947 book Great Northern by Arthur Ransome.

The bee: a natural history Noah Wilson-Rich (Ivy Press, RRP £19.99) Our price £15.99, quote WT056 Everything you ever needed to know about bees and then some, in one beautiful book. Beginning with their evolution 100 million years ago, it is a fascinating discovery of this crucial furry workaholic. Includes a visual directory of 40 bee species.

A buzz in the meadow Dave Goulson (Jonathan Cape, RRP £16.99) Our price £13.49, quote WT057 In 2003 biologist Dave Goulson bought a derelict farm with 33 acres of surrounding land and set about transforming it into a wildlife sanctuary. This book follows his inspiring journey, discoveries, successes and failures.

TO ORDER To purchase any of the featured books at our special discounted price, go to: www.wildsounds. com/wildtravel or call: 01263 741 825 and quote the relevant offer code above. Offers valid until 31 October 2014 Free postage for all UK orders. A percentage of every sale will be donated to our selected charity, World Land Trust (www.worldlandtrust.org)

SEPTEMBER 2014 103

Theknowledge

Essentialviewing A look at the latest wildlife DVDs and upcoming natural history TV for you to enjoy This month’s DVDs

5 minutes with...

COAST SERIES 9 BBC Presented by Nick Crane, this is a television series that covers both the natural and social history of the British coastline and its neighbours. The ninth in the series includes pieces on the Channel and what becomes of our coast in winter. For the first time it also crosses the Atlantic to find out why Nova Scotia, in Canada, appealed to the Scottish.

Dave Gosney We talk to the creator of the Easybirder Finding Birds series of DVDs and booklets, the latest of which is about the Canaries How did your interest in watching birds start? I’ve always been interested in identifying birds but I was hopeless at it until I went to secondary school and joined the ‘Biology Club’ run by the late Dave Herringshaw. What is your background? I started teaching when teachers had lots of holidays but not enough money to travel. So I bought a minibus and spent two years travelling around the Western Palearctic guiding birdwatchers. As a business it was rubbish but it did give me a knowledge of birds and places. Why start creating guides? I remember on one trip the birdwatchers were using the best site guide available but were still struggling to find some of the birds. I would help to put them straight and so it seemed obvious that I should make that sort of information more available. An ex-BBC producer Max Whitby then asked me to help him film some birds. We ended up merging my books and his videos into a new company, ‘BirdGuides’. Eventually I got to have a go at filming and loved the challenge of finding and then filming the birds. Why take the name Easybirder? I was made redundant by BirdGuides but managed to retain the rights to my books. They were still selling but were badly in need of a re-write. So, I set about updating them. I added DVDs as I think they’re

RRP £19.99, Our price £16.99, quote WT059

better than books because they show you what its like to visit a place, what the birds look like, what sort of views you get, and, most importantly, what they sound like. Tell us about Finding Birds in the Canaries?’ What really pushed me to go to the islands was an article in Birding World about oceanic trips off Lanzarote which suggested I might get close to some very special seabirds like white-faced petrels and Madeiran petrels – birds I’d never even seen, let alone filmed. Were there any surprises? Ooh, lots. Like finding white-tailed laurel pigeons at four different sites in Tenerife, like getting so close to the petrels I wanted to see, like driving down a desert track and finding a houbara bustard … What’s next? We (my wife Liz and I) are just back from Greece and Turkey so we are in the process of editing that footage and writing new books.

FINDING BIRDS IN THE CANARIES, EASYBIRDER DVD RRP £21.95. Our price £15.95, quote WT060 Book RRP £9.50. Our price £7.50, quote WT061 DVD and book RRP £24.95. Our price £19.95 WT062

104 SEPTEMBER 2014

THE SECRET LIFE OF THE SPARROWHAWK Dave Culley Discover the secrets of the lives of sparrowhawks from November to August when all adult and juvenile birds disperse. It covers why songbirds will choose to nest right next to seeming predators, and why the sparrowhawk has always been persecuted and very much misunderstood. It is narrated by naturalist Chris Packham. RRP £17.99, Our price £14.99, quote WT063 GRAND TOURS OF SCOTLAND: SERIES 3 & 4 BBC Paul Merton, armed with a Victorian guidebook, follows in the footsteps of the first tourists to venture into Scotland, and visits locations across the country, such as the Isle of Arran, Glen Affric, Alloway and Ben Nevis, and compares the 19th century experience with the 21st century’s. Series 3 RRP £19.34

Series 4 RRP £17.49

TO ORDER Go to page 103 for instructions on how to order these DVDs at our special Wild Travel Bookshop prices

Must-see TV SUPER SENSES: THE SECRET POWER OF ANIMALS BBC 2, this month A three-part series that explores the fascinating, extraordinary and surprising senses animals possess. Taking science out of the lab, biologist Patrick Aryee and physicist Dr Helen Czerski head to exotic climes to conduct experiments and demonstrations on a variety of species, including cheetahs, baboons, killer bees, elephants, owls, wolverines, giant sharks and tiny golden moles. For example, it reveals how Alaskan caribou make use of ultraviolet light to avoid predators.

Theknowledge

Kitlist SCOPES

Needing to get closer to the action? Here is our selection of scopes for every budget Budget 1 Optical Hardware

The Ostara Hidelite scope comes with a lightweight tripod. The eyepiece features a zoom from 18x to 36x and the company recommends using 25x for bird watching. Other features include high resolution prism and full multicoating for clear and colour corrected viewing, while a 45 degree eyepiece makes the system comfortable to use. £159.99, www. opticalhardware.co.uk

Mid-range 1 Opticron

Opticron HR ED fieldscopes are designed for the serious wildlife spotters, and built to withstand extremes in temperature. It comes in two sizes, the 66mm and 80mm, and has a large footprint tripod adapter with +/- 90º rotation. Other features include a centrally positioned rubber armoured focusing wheel, and a new retractable rubber covered lens hood with integrated rubber objective lens cap. From £749, www.opticron.co.uk

Top-end 1 Leica

Available in two sizes 65mm and 82mm, Leica APO-Televids are protected by an optically neutral front filter and have a dual-focus system that enables rapid and precise focusing and comes with a magnesium-alloy chassis and rubber armouring. Other features include a close focusing distance of 2.9m (9.5ft) for the 62 and 3.8 m (12.5ft) for the 82, which gives users a close look at the object of interest. From £2,199 , uk.leica-camera.com

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2 Hawke

3 Viking

The Endurance spotting scopes by Hawke are fully waterproof and come in two sizes, 68 and 85. Features include intense colour reproduction, fully multi-coated optics to enhance image quality, high stability magnesium alloy body for maximum durability, adjustable body rotation for viewing in virtually any position, a dual focus knob to achieve crisp focus and a twist-up eye cup for proper, stable eye relief. It is also compatible for use with your camera. From £369, www.hawkeoptics.co.uk

The AW spotting scopes from Viking are available with either a 65mm or 80mm objective lens. The 80mm offers a bright sharp image even in low light, while the 65mm is small and light enough to be carried anywhere, making it great for wildlife spotting on the go. There are also two eyepieces available, a 25x/33x wide angle and a 15-45x/20-60x zoom while an optional digiscoping adaptor is available for the wide angle eyepiece. From £249, www.vikingoptical.co.uk

2 Minox

3 Kowa

Weighing 930g, the waterproof MD 62 ED spotting scope has 20-45x zoom, and an operating temperature range of between -10 and +45ºC. Features include a special ED fluoride glass, which guarantees a neutral colour rendition even in critical light conditions, a 5m short focusing distance and a nitrogen filling that prevents the optics from misting up, even under extreme temperature fluctuations. £539, www.minox.com

Kowa’s TSN-884 Straight Spotting Scope is waterproof and filled with dry nitrogen gas to prevent the lens from fogging. It weighs 1.5 kg, has a minimum focussing distance of 5m (or 16.4ft) and an 88mm objective lens diameter. Other features include a dual focus mechanism (quick and fine focusing), an eyepiece locking mechanism and a magnesium alloy body. £1,849, www.kowaproducts.com

2 Swarovski Optik

3 Nikon

Available in three sizes, 65mm, 85mm and 95mm, Swarovski’s range of ATX/STX spotting scopes features include a functional temperature range of between -25 °C and +55 °C . The 65 has a close-range focusing distance of 6.9ft (2.1m), while the 85 has a 11.8ft (3.6m) distance and they both have a 25-60x zoom. The 95 has a close-range focusing distance of 15.7ft (4.8m) and an impressive 30-70x magnification. From £2,340, uk.swarovskioptik.com

Nikon’s EDG VR 85mm scope comes with a vibration reduction system that compensates for external vibrations caused by wind and operations such as focusing, panning and tilting and reduces the vibibration to approximately an eighth. Other features include a phase-correction-coated roof prism for high resolution, a built-in sliding hood to protect the objective lens, nitrogen gas for fog-free views and O-ring seals. £2,999, www.nikon.com

SEPTEMBER 2014 105

Photo workshop

A flash of blue Kingfishers are not as difficult to photograph as you might imagine, but for the best shots you will still need planning, patience and the ability to stay quite still and hidden, writes Jonathan Lewis

remember quite clearly the first time I saw and photographed a kingfisher up close. I was – and still am – stunned by the vivid colours: turquoise, orange, red and green gleaming vibrantly in the sun. I sat mesmerised in my hide, barely daring to breathe as the female sat just a couple of metres from me, bobbing up and down on a perch. In a split second she dived elegantly into the water, returning to the perch with a bright red male stickleback in her beak. From that moment I was hooked. For obvious reasons, kingfishers are one of the best-loved birds in the UK. Everyone seems to wants to photograph them but most photographers only get to 106 SEPTEMBER 2014

catch a glimpse of blue darting off down the river at high speed. However, contrary to popular belief, kingfishers are actually relatively easy to photograph. As with all wildlife photography preparation is the key and good field craft combined with patience is required to take pictures of these amazing animals. Believe me, though, it is well worth the time and effort. First off, you need to find a kingfisher holding territory along a stretch of river. They’re actually fairly common along rivers with decent water quality and they will even inhabit irrigation ditches when small fish numbers are high enough. They defend an area from early spring to

the end of summer so this is the best time to go out searching for them. Rather than looking out for an individual, use your ears instead. Kingfishers are very noisy birds and continuously communicate with each other so if they’re around you will most probably hear them first. Visit this link to hear the distinctive loud call they make: www. xeno-canto.org/species/Alcedo-atthis Once you’ve found an individual you’ll need to observe them for a while to build up a picture of where along the riverbank would be best to photograph them. Sit on the bank and wait; listen, watch and learn. Take note of how often they fly past, whether they’re carrying fish in wildlifeextra.com

Theknowledge Here: A female kingfisher maintaining her splendid plumage. A wide aperture was used to blur the background so that it didn’t detract from the subject. Right: A juvenile kingfisher emerging from the water with a small stickleback. A fast shutter speed was required to freeze this dramatic sequence. Below right: A female kingfisher calling for her mate to bring her food, a courtship ritual which takes place at the start of spring.

Wild September Other species to photograph around the UK this month

their beak tail first (a sign they are feeding young) and whether there is more than one. It is worth noting that kingfishers are a protected species so if you do stumble across a nest do not attempt to photograph it, and leave the stretch immediately. After this period of gathering knowledge you’ll be ready to start your photography quest. Your main aim initially is to get the kingfishers to come to you, rather than futilely attempting to chase them up and down the riverbank. Again, field craft and subject knowledge are worth their weight in gold here. Secure a branch into the riverbank, leaning it out over the water. As they’re highly territorial they’re more than likely to try out this new hunting opportunity and with luck you’ll be given the privileged opportunity to view them up close and personal. In my experience, kingfishers don’t wildlifeextra.com

seem to respond to sound and are more bothered by movement, so concealing yourself is very important. If you spook them you risk them not returning and also disturbing their behaviour. It’s important to remember that the welfare of your subject should take priority over your image and, indeed, you’ll get far better photographs if the bird is relaxed and oblivious to your presence! Again, remember the key is patience, patience, patience (and some more patience thrown in for good measure). I find that a portable canvas photography hide is excellent to photograph from. With landowner permission I leave this on the riverbank and the kingfishers get used to it – I’ve even had them sitting on top of it! The great thing about photographing kingfishers using this method is that you can set up the shot and manipulate the perch to suit your requirements. As with

RED DEER Magnificent stags will be warming up for the annual rut this month. It’s interesting to witness and photograph the dynamics of these relationships either from the relative comfort of a deer park or in the wild. Locations: Richmond Park, London; Minsmere Nature Reserve, Suffolk; Highlands of Scotland. FUNGI An abundance of weird and wonderful fungi appears this month. Use your nose as well as your eyes and they’re easy to find; the stinkhorn smells of rotting meat! Even better, they don’t move so you can take your time getting your shot just right. Locations: any woodland or pasture near you. DORMICE These loveable little rodents are particularly active now, preparing for hibernation by fattening up. They are nocturnal but can be found in the daytime sleeping off their dinner. Locations: Lanvean Bottoms Nature Reserve, Cornwall; Ynys-Hir Nature Reserve, Ceredigion.

SEPTEMBER 2014 107

Here: A female kingfisher in winter. This image was taken in February before the vegetation had regrown. The brown background complements the bright plumage. Below right: A juvenile kingfisher returns to the perch with a stickleback. The background was far away, providing a clean green backdrop to the image.

What’s in my kit bag? Jonathan reveals the essential items he takes on a trip to the riverbank

most wildlife subjects, aim to shoot as low as possible, adjust the perch to eye level to portray a feeling of intimacy to the viewer. Think carefully about the background, you’ll want it reasonably far away so it blurs smoothly and doesn’t distract from your subject. Would you prefer brown reeds or bright green grass in your image? Once decided, open your aperture up widely to throw the background out of focus whilst keeping the kingfisher pin sharp. Watch out for your shutter speeds, these are busy little birds and always on the move so you’ll need a fast speed to avoid blurred images. The best time of day to photograph kingfishers is the morning. I find they are out very early, from 4am on long summer days, but they disappear around noon and rarely appear much after that. With this in mind you can decide upon lighting direction and can either shoot with the sun behind you or – depending on the riverbank layout – opt for a backlit kingfisher silhouetted against the rising sun. Once you’ve mastered perching shots you can begin to explore more difficult ones, such as diving. This is a matter of trial and error over time, but can be achieved. By following these very 108 SEPTEMBER 2014

simple rules I have witnessed the most intimate behaviour of the kingfisher; I’ve seen young raised, thousands of fish caught, territorial fights, the drama of mink predation and, alongside all of this, I’ve learnt so much about the ecology of our rivers. Some days I will sit and wait for hours and see nothing at all, in others I will see otters playing together, roe deer strolling metres from the hide or a kestrel stealing voles from a barn owl that is patiently quartering the field. These magic moments are few and far between but the uncertainty of it all is the real magic of wildlife photography. It feels as if you have really earned each shot, and they mean all the more for it.

CANON EOS 1DX A top of the range DSLR with amazingly fast frame rate to capture the action shots. The ISO capability of this camera is quite stunning, and permits me to maintain fast shutter speeds even before the sun has fully risen. CANON 500MM F4 L IS My main wildlife photography workhorse. This is an outstanding lens which picks up every little detail. Weighing in at 4kg, it’s heavy but it’s well worth it. GITZO TRIPOD AND WIMBERLEY HEAD A sturdy tripod is a must. The Wimberley Head allows me to move the heavy lens rapidly and accurately and without any effort. HIGH SPEED MEMORY CARDS I use Sandisk Extreme memory cards which record rapidly and have never failed me. SUNSURVEYOR SMARTPHONE APP A handy little app that lets me know where the sun will be at what time. Useful for planning the more unusual backlit shots. PARAMO WATERPROOFS These keep me dry and are also fairly silent which is essential when approaching the hide. AMERISTEP DOGHOUSE HIDE This portable hide is great. It packs up small if you need to move it on a regular basis and is fairly hardy, although I still go through several each year!

■ Share your wildlife photos at www.flickr.com/groups/wild_travel

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