Wildtravel 10/2014

WILDTRAVEL October 2014 I £3.99

BUMPER

ISSUE

Discover the world’s most amazing wildlife

Take me there

iSimangaliso Wetland Park

In search of Scottish wildcat

Say hello to the Big 7 at South Africa’s rejeuvenated coastal wetlands

Take a Caledonian safari to find seals, white-tailed eagles and Scotland’s elusive feline

)ʋʛɵʙɨ ʣȼHʎLɪɗ

We reveal the ultimate child-friendly wildlife watching experiences in our essential 50-page guide

Trip report

Prime diving in Wakatobi Discover the underwater wonders at this remote Indonesian archipelago

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WILDLIFEEXTRA.COM

HOME OR AWAY? TOP TRIPS FOR OCTOBER

WILDLIFE WEEKEND: THE SCILLY ISLES

HOW TO BUILD A HEDGEHOG HOME

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Contents Features

29 Home or away? c Our selection of the best wildlife-watching trips in the UK and overseas during October, including the red deer rut in Scotland and polar bears in Canada

34 Trip report: Ardnamurchan peninsula, Scotland c Emma Thomson goes in search of the elusive Scottish wildcat, common seals, porpoises and white-tailed eagles on a Caledonian safari

54 Anatomy of a saltwater crocodile We reveal how the largest of all living reptiles is perfectly adapted to life both above and below water

56 Interview: Luke Hunter The CEO of wild cat conservation charity Panthera offers his thoughts on what the future holds for the world’s big cats and how we can best protect them

64 Trip report: diving in 44 Take me there: Wakatobi, Indonesia c iSimangaliso Wetland Reserve c Richard Smith shares his experience of Introducing South Africa’s rejeuvenated coastal wetlands, where its possible to see the Big 5, plus sharks and whales All cover stories marked with a c

diving to see the rich marine life in the waters off this remote archipelago in Sulawesi, Indonesia

wildlife FAMILYholidays

76 KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Wildlife TV producer and father of three nature mad children, Stephen Moss, offers his advice on organising a family holiday to see wildlife

85 THE SHORTLIST

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Our selection of the best familyfriendly wildlife experiences across UK, Europe and the rest of the world

118 COMBINATION TRIPS

We look at the destinations where it’s possible to combine a traditional family holiday with some unforgettable wildlife watching

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CONTENTS Regulars 12 Wild world We review the latest images from the world of wildlife, from England to South Africa, as well as the latest conservation news and wildlife-watching tours

22 Wild UK c Inspiration for wild days out across the UK, from spotting migratory birds on the Scilly Isles to booming bitterns in Yorkshire

125 The knowledge c Our experts share their top tips for identifying animals and building a hedgehog home, plus we interview Drew Fellman, producer of new film Island of Lemurs: Madagascar

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146 Column: Confessions of a wildlife traveller

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Their attention spans may be low and noise levels high, but children can teach us a lot about appreciating wildlife, says Mike Unwin

Departments 07 Editor’s welcome 08 Inbox Our selection of the latest comments, tweets, photos and wildlife stories we’ve received

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OUR COST RATINGS EXPLAINED Under £500 £500-£1,500 £1,500-£3,000 £3,000-£5,000 Over £5,000 Nb. The cost rating is based on the total cost for the trip per person, including flights, accommodation, guides and transport

Go to: www buyamag co uk/WT Go to www.buyamag.co.uk/WT Discount code: XD40 Pre-order the November issue of Wild Travel to save £1 off the cover price £1 off and get free the next delivery issue! in the UK

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Turn to page 62 for details of our latest subscription offer

Up close and personal

The best safari circuit in Botswana desertdelta.com Camp Moremi | Camp Okavango | Camp Xakanaxa | Chobe Game Lodge Chobe Savanna Lodge | Leroo La Tau | Savute Safari Lodge | Xugana Island Lodge

WELCOME Contributors

Emma Thompson Emma reports on her search for Scottish wildcat on a safari across the Ardnamurchan peninsula

Wishing you were here? Turn to page 75 to find out how to make it happen

Anthony Ham

Keeping it in the family

COVER IMAGE: © JAN WLODARCZYK/ALAMY. ABOVE: © PETE OXFORD/MINDEN PICTURES/FLPA

If you’re a parent looking for alternatives to the standard sun, sea and sand holiday destinations, a family wildlife-watching trip can be a fun and educational option with appeal for all ages. For those willing to give it a try the good news is that booking one has never been easier, with specialist tour operators and even high street holiday companies offering an array of family-friendly safaris, whale and dolphin-watching cruises and bird-spotting tours.

To find out more, turn to page 75 where you will find our special 50-page guide, explaining how, where and when to organise an unforgettable family wildlife adventure.

Inside you’ll find expert tips on everything you need to know before you go, along with our shortlist of the top 30 family trips, including long haul, short haul and stay-at-home options.

As I leave you to consider future travels, it seems like an appropriate moment to let you know that this is my last issue as Editor of Wild Travel. Almost three years since we first launched this magazine as a one off (who knew?), I would like to take this opportunity to thank all of you who buy or subscribe to it. I only hope that you continue to enjoy reading Wild Travel as much as I have enjoyed producing it!

Matt Havercroft, Editor

WILDTRAVEL To subscribe Tel: 0844 848 4211 Email: wildtravel@subscription.co.uk www.subscriptionsave.co.uk www.greatbritishmagazines.com (US only) To advertise ADVERTISING GROUP SALES MANAGER Kim Lewis, Tel: 01242 211 072; kim.lewis@archant.co.uk ACCOUNT MANAGERS Justin Parry, Tel: 01242 216 060, justin.parry@archant.co.uk; Leigh Trigg, Tel: 01242 265 890, leigh.trigg@archant.co.uk

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To contact editorial Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL50 1BB ; Tel: 01242 211 080 Email: editorial@wildtravelmag.com EDITOR Matt Havercroft DEPUTY EDITOR Sheena Harvey EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Debbie Graham DESIGNER Steve Rayner ARCHANT SPECIALIST MANAGING DIRECTOR Peter Timperley; peter.timperley@archant.co.uk For customer services Tel: 01242 216 002; Email: sylvie.wheatley@ archant.co.uk, or estelle.iles@archant.co.uk Printing William Gibbons ISSN 2048-2485

© Archant Specialist 2014. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission of Archant Ltd. Although every effort has been made to ensure that the information in this publication is correct at the time of going to press, we cannot accept any responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience however caused. For the latest travel and health information on all destinations covered in the magazine, go to www.fco.gov.uk

WILD TRAVEL IS AN OFFICIAL MEDIA PARTNER OF

Anthony discusses big cats with Luke Hunter, CEO of conservation charity Panthera

Richard Smith Richard shares his experiences of diving in the waters off Wakatobi in Indonesia

Oliver Smart Oliver offers his expertise on how to get children into wildlife photography

On the cover...

Cover image: girl snorkelling on Ko Samet Beach, Thailand

OCTOBER 2014 7

InBox

Send us your thoughts on the magazine, wildlife travel pictures and recommendations, or stories of your own wildlife encounters. The author of our favourite letter, picture and story will receive a brilliant wildlife book

Follow us on Twitter: @wild_travel

Winning letter Night Swimming Hello! I am a keen warm-water diver, recently completing my PADI Night Diver specialty course, and I wanted to share my amazing holiday experience with you. Don’t get me wrong, night diving can be intimidating. It’s a whole new world underwater once the sun has gone down and swimming around in the dark isn’t the norm, however, it offers the opportunity to observe a variety of marine life seldom encountered during the day.

Night-time is the best time to see crabs, lobsters, and shrimp going about their business. Octopi came

out and swam freely alongside hunting sharks and barracuda, creating an amazing spectacle for me and my fellow dive buddies. But it didn’t stop there; one of the most spectacular parts of the night dive was watching the coral feeding.

Coral blooms after dark, absorbing nutrients from the water around it and looks truly beautiful. Of course, another incredible occurrence that can only be seen at night with all lights turned off is bioluminescence, amazing organisms that glow in the dark! Very cool, very wild travel…

Amy Weston

Recovery or decline for hen harriers?

A campaign by shooting organisations calling for the publication of a new Defra-led Joint Recovery Plan for hen harriers sparked a debate on our website about whether grouse shooting is compatible with wildlife conservation.

Evidence supports the fact that biodiversity is enhanced by moorland management, and that the grouse farmers invest significantly more than anyone else in the land. Personally, I cannot understand how people can derive pleasure from shooting animals, but money from shooting organisations may be the best solution for our wildlife. We see this model working in many parts of the conservation world, so I think that calling for the ban of grouse shooting is well-meaning, but misguided.

Christopher Roberts, via website 8 OCTOBER 2014

Doesn’t the Moorland Association realise their concept of ‘a sustainable population of hen harriers without jeopardising driven grouse shooting’ is an oxymoron? Forcing an ecosystem to produce unnaturally high numbers of grouse, at the expense of native biodiversity including predators like hen harriers, is

hardly a sustainable activity.

To argue that grouse moors as a cultural heritage are richer in biodiversity than some other areas of intensively managed countryside may be true, but that is a distraction from the real issue. I believe it would be a misguided step for the future of our natural heritage if the RSPB were to become a signatory to any plan that

included harrier brood management. The very notion is scientifically flawed. In the UK it is a partial migrant species which has evolved a strategy of seeking out optimal breeding habitat, and young birds from any ‘relocated’ broods will simply move into the best unoccupied territories in terms of prey availability the following spring. To resolve this blight against our valued wildlife, we need to understand and accept that the best compromise should involve affording harriers their rightful place in the natural environment. If this means denying the elite the right to enjoy driven grouse shooting, so be it. Right now, the very activity that provided us with much of our heather moorland as a valuable wildlife resource is slowly destroying it.

Ian Gibson, via website wildlifeextra.com

InBox 1

Your photos This month’s selection of photos from our Flickr site 1 An African fish eagle, with its catch of the day, caught the eye of photographer Tony from Tickspics in Ruaha, Tanzania 2 Gillian Day caught a superb image of a gray whale and calf off the coast of Baja California, with a rainbow backdrop...

3 A rather elegant Guanay cormorant drying its wings after an unsuccessful dive on the Ballestas Islands, Paracas, by Richard James 4 A charming photograph of the small antelope called the bush duiker, in Kasanka National Park, Zambia, by Aileen_s 5 Congratulations to Kevin Morgans. His dramatic image of a coastal brown bear chasing salmon at Lake Clark in Alaska wins him a three-month subscription to Wild Travel magazine

To upload your own image, or view and comment on those already there, visit www.flickr.com/groups/wild_travel

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Winning image

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OCTOBER 2014 9

InBox Your stories Step up to the steppe I recently took a trip to Mongolia, where I stayed in Hustai Nuruu National Park to volunteer with the conservation of the reintroduced population of Przewalski’s horse (known locally as takhi), which would otherwise be extinct in the wild. One wouldn’t generally think of the Mongolian steppe as teeming with wildlife, but spending time in the National Park my expectations were exceeded. Sit still for even just a brief period of time in the sparse expanse of grassland, and soon your senses are alive to the sounds of the soft coo of cuckoos, the persistent twitter of Mongolian larks, and the occasional shrill alarm call of the marmot. While monitoring the harems of Przewalski’s horse, I was also treated to sightings of

many red deer, Mongolian gazelle, the beautiful spectacle of several black vultures and saker falcons hovering overhead, and even a few sightings of the impressive golden eagle. But the encounter that truly took my breath away was seeing two wolves walk by not far from where I was sitting watching a harem of wild horses. It was a still morning, and what alerted me to their presence was the persistent alarm call of a frightened marmot, looking in the direction of the wolves. As they trotted by on the horizon of a nearby hill, one of them paused to look at me,

Elephants in the firing line We published news on our website, www.wildlifeextra.com, of the ban on hunting in Zambia being reversed. Here is what a small selection of our readers had to say in response: I’m sure there must be a good source of income generated from wildlife tourism, with people travelling specifically to see wild elephants. I am a warden of Kafta Sheraro National Park in Ethiopia, which has been established for the safeguard of the African elephant. For me, the news of the reversal of the elephant hunting ban in Zambia is immoral and very sad. I hope the Zambian Government will revise their plans in order to benefit both the Zambian people, and the elephant population, one of the last true giants of nature remaining.

Gebremeskel Gizaw Kassa, via website

before continuing onward. It was certainly an experience I won’t forget in a hurry.

Mongolia is an underrated destination for wildlife. Next time you think of planning a wildlife trip, consider Mongolia! I’m sure you’ll find it won’t disappoint.

Sally Linville, email

I think people get too emotional when it comes to hunting.

Elephants are not endangered in southern parts of Africa – the big population losses happen in central Africa, where the forest elephants are slaughtered without control. This is the real problem. However in southern and eastern Africa elephant populations are on the rise.

Hunting brings money, and it can be beneficial to reducing human-elephant conflicts if the animals are shot in the buffer zones or game management areas, where people live.

Westlöwe, via website Communities need an income, and the Zambian Government cannot subsidise its population forever, but hunting is not the answer. With all the available evidence, how can anyone consider that this is a sustainable source of income, never mind a sustainable conservation practice?

Zambia needs to reorganise its administration of available resources, not deplete them.

Swati, via website

Getting in touch EMAIL: editorial@wildtravelmag.com PHONE: 01242 211 080 FACEBOOK: www.facebook.com/wildtravelmag

We welcome your letters but reserve the right to edit them.

Please include a daytime telephone number and, if emailing, a postal address (this will not be published)

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© SHUTTERSTOCK

TWITTER: @wild_travel

© LEE ACASTER

Wildworld Latest visions from the world of wildlife

England

Goose on the loose This striking image of a greylag goose against the backdrop of a stormy London cityscape has been selected as the overall winner of the 2014 British Wildlife Photography Awards. Taken by on the banks of the River Thames by Suffolk-based photographer Lee Acaster, it will now take prime position in a touring exhibition and book showcasing the winning images across 13 categories, which include Animal Behaviour, Urban Wildlife, Coast and Marine, and a special award to encourage participation by young people. See bwpawards.org

South Africa

Cape crusaders

© BARCROFT MEDIA/RAINER SCHIMPF

How about this as a spectacular alternative to Tanzania’s wildebeest migration?

Photographer couple Silke and Rainer Schimpf took this image of thousands of dolphins as they embarked on the final leg of their annual 6,000 mile migration along South Africa’s Eastern Cape. The couple followed the dolphins for 440 hours over seven months before finally finding perfect conditions to photograph them as they surged en masse through the sparkling waters of Port Alfred.

Wildworld

China

Cake break

© XINHUA/LANDOV/BARCROFT MEDIA

Giant panda Liang Liang enjoys a ‘moon cake’ overlooked by visitors at Hefei Wildlife Park in Anhui Province, China. It is a Chinese tradition to eat the round pastries with a sweet filling during the Mid-Autumn Festival, which fell on 8 September this year. Workers at the zoo prepared special cakes for a number of animals at the zoo, using ingredients compatible with their regular diets.

Wildworld

Kenya

Mongoose vs lion

USA

Jellyfish invasion A dead velella velella sits on the sand in Pebble Beach, California. Millions of the jellyfish-like creatures have washed up on beaches along America’s West Coast, giving the shoreline a purple gleam.

Known more informally as ‘by-the-wind sailors’, they regularly cluster offshore in spring, but it is unusual for so many to wash ashore all at once so late in summer.

© JEROME GUILLAUMOT/BARCROFT MEDIA, MICHAEL FIALA/REUTERS

Lions are supposed to be the kings of the jungle but no one told this plucky mongoose, which took on four lionesses in Kenya’s Masai Mara National Park and lived to tell the tale. The confrontation began after the lions chased the mongoose into a hole in the ground, but the small animal re-emerged to make its feelings known before running for cover.

Shorts New species

Our roundup of the latest news, discoveries and tours that have got the wildlife world talking. For more, sign up to our weekly e-newsletter at www.wildlifeextra.com

Asia / Africa

IVORY MAFIA Organised crime revealed to be at the heart of the global trade

Monkeying about A 10-year study of the saki monkey of South America has revealed five new monkeys, bringing the total number of saki species to 16.

“I began to suspect there might be more species when I was doing field research in Ecuador,” said lead author Dr Laura K Marsh. “The more I saw, the more I realised that scientists had been confused in the evaluation of their diversity for over two centuries.”

Saki monkeys are native to the tropical forests of South America.

They are often hunted for food, even though their elusive habits makes them difficult to find.

“Besides being vital for their conservation and survival, the revised scientific description is a major step in our understanding of primate diversity in Amazonia and worldwide,” said Dr Anthony B Rylands, Senior Researcher at Conservation International.

A e n re w ivory traffickers are present in virtually every African state, and operate at nearly every point along the supply chain. The report, commissioned by Born Free USA and nonprofit organisation C4ADS, found that despite its global scale, the majority of the illegal ivory trade is dominated by a small number of networks, and that most ivory is shipped via just 100 large annual consignments. The report also revealed that illegal ivory travels to Asia through a small number of ports and airports – Mombasa, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar, Nairobi, Addis Ababa, and Johannesburg.

Adam M Roberts, CEO of The Born Free Foundation and Born Free USA said: “The scale we found in our investigation was shocking; Chinese traffickers are present in virtually every single African range

rt o p

s a h

state, and operate at nearly every point along the ivory supply chain.”

Varun Vira, Chief of Analysis at C4ADS said, “The ivory trade is worth billions of dollars but is still talked about as if it were an unprofessional, disorganised, and artisanal industry, of concern only to conservationists. In reality, it is a highly organised, complex global crime.

“Focusing efforts on intercepting the containers and tracing back their owners and facilitators can have a real impact.”

Read Adam Roberts’ take on the issue at www. wildlifeextra.com/go/safaris/ivory-trade.html

229,729 By numbers

elephants killed and trafficked in fewer than six years

England

HOPE FOR HARRIERS Five hen harrier chicks successfully fledged this year in the Peak District, which is great news for a species that has been at serious threat of extinction because of illegal trapping and shooting. In 2013, just two breeding pairs were reported in England and neither of them nested.

These hen harriers were reared in the Upper Derwent Valley, on land cared for by the National Trust. In early August, the nest containing the five chicks was discovered by

20 OCTOBER 2014

Geoff Eyre, a local National Trust shooting tenant. He alerted the Peak District Birds of Prey Initiative, which put a nest watch team in place to monitor the chicks’ progress. The five fledglings were ringed and satellite tagged so that their progress can be monitored over the coming years.

The Trust puts the success down to collaboration with a wide partnership of people, all sharing the goal of protecting the birds and their nests as part of the National Trust’s High Peak Moors Vision, which aims to

restore raptors to the area. Jon Stewart, NT General Manager for the Peak District, said: “This success is the first step towards a sustainable future for these magnificent birds; a future that can only be achieved by everyone continuing to work together, both here and across the English uplands.”

If you see a wild hen harrier, contact the hen harrier hotline on 0845 4600121, or henharriers@ rspb.org.uk. Include the date, place, and a grid reference if possible.

See page 27 for a debate on grouse moor conservation.

wildlifeextra.com

© SHUTTERSTOCK, MARCIAL QUIROGA-CARMONA, DERBYSHIRE WILDLIFE TRUST

SOURCE: BORN FREE FOUNDATION

Wildworld Venezuela

Evolving story A team of researchers from the City University of New York working on the Península de Paraguaná in Venezuela have made a discovery that could revolutionise our understanding of how the origin of a new species takes place.

Up to now it has been thought that primary drivers in a species becoming isolated, and consequently developing sufficiently separate characteristics to become genetically distinct, are physical in nature – the uplift of mountains, the formation of islands, creating barriers.

The findings of the study of two species of mouse opossums, Marmosa xerophila and Marmosa robinsoni, have now added interactions among species as another way that populations can become geographically isolated, which could promote the formation of new species.

On the Paraguaná peninsula, researchers found that M. robinsoni has become separated from populations of the same species on the mainland, not because the habitat in between is unsuitable, but because it is mostly occupied by M. xerophila. The inability of individuals of that branch of M. robinsoni to mate with individuals from the mainland could, in time, lead to genetic differentiation and the origin of a new species.

New tours

China

PAMPERED PANDAS A panda at Chengdu Breeding Research Centre in China’s Sichuan province is thought to have faked her pregnancy in order to get nicer food.

Six-year-old Ai Hin showed signs of being pregnant – reduced appetite and mobility – in July, but after two months experts told the state news agency Xinhua that she wasn’t pregnant after all, as her behaviour and physiological tests showed her to be normal.

Her keepers believe she has learned that exhibiting signs of being pregnant will earn her treats to eat. This is because captive pandas have difficulty in reproducing and are therefore treated to 24-hour care and attention when they are pregnant.

Panda expert Wu Kongju, who works at the centre, told Xinhua: “The

ZAMBIAN RIVERS

‘mothers-to-be’ are moved into single rooms with air conditioning and around-the-clock care. They also receive more buns, fruits and bamboo, so some clever pandas have used this to their advantage to improve their quality of life.”

Assessing a panda’s reproductive state is far from easy, as Edinburgh Zoo recently found when their panda, Tian Tian, went past her due delivery date.

Micro-life

Lemur leaf frog The nocturnal lemur leaf frog (Hylomantis lemur) from Costa Rica, Panama and northern Colombia, is so small it could fit on the end of a finger. It grows up to 4cm long and is able to change colour – from a vivid green in daylight, which helps it to blend in to the vegetation while it is resting, to a murky brown which allows it to hop around safely in the dark. The frogs’ populations have declined by over 80 per cent in the past 15 years, due in large part to habitat loss by deforestation of their humid rainforest home. They have also been victim to the disease chytridiomycosis that is devastating amphibians worldwide. It affects natural defences and interferes with their breathing.

Robin Pope Safaris is running trips on the Luangwa River in Zambia during the Emerald Season, which is at peak flood time, staying in luxury riverside rondavels and bush suites.

Explore the plentiful wildlife on game drives, by boat and on foot.

Cost: from £1,700pp (7 nights full board, but excluding flights) When: 21 January to 31 March 2015 www.robinpopesafaris.net

KOREA OLD AND NEW Wendy Wu Tours is launching a 12-day group trip called South Korea Explorer.

The tour combines heritage and natural scenery with city visits, taking in Mount Seorak and Mount Gaya National Parks and Dongbaekseom Island, noted for its natural landscapes.

Cost: from £3,190pp (fully inclusive) When: from 25 Mar to 5 Apr 2015; 30 Sep to 11 Oct; 4 to 15 Nov www.wendywutours.co.uk

TIGER SURVEY Sign-ups for Biosphere Expeditions’ 2015 Sumatran tiger expedition are now being accepted. Working as part of an international team, you will look for tracks, kills, scats, and set camera traps in an effort to mitigate human-wildlife conflict.

Cost: £1,940pp When: May, June, July, August 2015 www.biosphere-expeditions.org

OCTOBER 2014 21

Wildlife weekends

Scilly season I

n a copse on an isolated archipelago, east meets west. From Asia hails a Pallas’s warbler; from North America, a grey-cheeked thrush. The delicate eastern sprite hovers above the head of the demure, ground-feeding thrush. Such an exceptional avian juxtaposition, both protagonists being thousands of kilometres from home, would be a sure sign that we have entered ‘Scilly season’.

The Isles of Scilly, plonked in the North Atlantic some 40km off the Cornish coast, are a magnet for lost birds. The reason is simple: location, location, location. The 140 islands form the first British landfall for New World vagrants that have been carried east by strong winds – and the last terra firme for those oriental oddities that have overshot the English mainland.

Mid-October is prime time to see migrant birds from all points of the compass – and birdwatchers from all parts of Britain.

Fortunately for the claustrophobic, the days

22 OCTOBER 2014

of thousand-strong crowds of Barbour-clad birders are largely over; feathered visitors now once again outnumber their admirers.

If you depart mainland Cornwall by water rather than air, your journey unlocks the adventure. Crossing open ocean gives you a chance of seeing seabirds such as shearwaters and grey phalarope (a remarkable marine wader), plus shortbeaked common dolphin and basking shark.

Once you land on the largest island of St Mary’s almost anything is possible – and the unpredictability is the essence of the attraction. For peak action, onshore winds are a must: ideally southwesterlies tracking an Atlantic depression or easterlies emanating from a bank of high pressure over Asia. But Scilly’s magic is such that any weather conditions can conjure up something special.

To optimise your visit, two approaches stand out. Stay on one island and check every ounce of interesting habitat to find

your own birds. Or profit from the interisland boat service that connects St Mary’s, St Agnes, St Martin’s, Tresco and Bryher, and trail after others’ finds. Or a bit of both, if time permits!

To find rare birds, think in terms of the habitats that provide a weary vagabond with sustenance and shelter. Look on beaches for shorebirds: might a spotted sandpiper lurk amongst the common sandpipers? Scan expanses of cropped turf (cricket pitches, airfields) for Richard’s pipit and dotterel.

Wait by bushes for a firecrest to emerge or a little bunting to start feeding.

Crick your neck in copses, straining for a flash of yellow-browed warbler or, if you’re really lucky, the bumble of a red-eyed vireo, hailing from across ‘the Pond’.

Talking of ponds, freshwater bodies such as Porth Hellick and Lower Moors (St Mary’s) and Abbey Pool (Tresco) are a magnet for jack snipe – a bouncing yo-yo of a wader – but they could just as well harbour spotted

wildlifeextra.com

© JAMES LOWEN/JAMESLOWEN.COM

October is the perfect time to visit the Isles of Scilly to see vagrant birds, lesser whitetoothed shrews, grey seals, prickly stick insects and rockpool life, writes James Lowen

WildUK Clockwise from left: a grey phalarope; red-veined darter dragonfly; the tiny firecrest; a grey seal

PRACTICALITIES

crake or pectoral sandpiper. The possibilities are endless.

Should you crave a change from birding, fear not: a flock of alternatives are on offer.

Monarch is the non-avian winged rarity that everyone hopes to see, and nowhere is better in Britain to see it than Scilly. This giant of the butterfly world frequently gets caught up in the same fast-moving Atlantic depressions as North American birds. Its safe arrival on British shores is all the more remarkable, given its fragility. If you see a dragonfly, give it a second glance. In October, any such four-winged insect could have farflung origins: perhaps red-veined darter from southern Europe or, the nirvana of Odonata, green darner from North America.

The fact that mammals are somewhat less prone to vagrancy than winged wonders does not mean that Scilly is bereft of furry favourites. October is early in the breeding season for grey seal, so a boat trip to the Eastern Islands could conceivably produce pups as well as adults. And it would be rude not to try for lesser white-toothed shrew, a species unknown elsewhere in Britain. On St Mary’s, favoured spots include Old Town

wildlifeextra.com

beach and churchyard, and the path towards Peninnis Head. But check rocky beaches anywhere – and, while there, go rockpooling at low tide.

If bryophytes tickle your fancy, track down lichens for which Scilly’s clean, Gulf Streammoistened air is famous. Peninnis Head holds ciliate strap lichen (among grass) and golden hair lichen (on bare rock), among others.

Worth looking for if there are no migrant birds.

For something completely different, search for stick-insects! In the 1940s, prickly and smooth stick-insects arrived in plant shipments from New Zealand, survived and have thrived. These camouflage champions breed without need for fertilisation by males; indeed, no males have ever been seen.

Recently, an additional species from closer to home – Mediterranean stick-insect – has been discovered, so there’s now a trio to try for. Key sites include Old Town cemetery on St Mary’s and Abbey Gardens on Tresco. But wherever you tread, keep your eye on suitable foodplants (bramble and privet) and sunny, south-facing walls (perfect for basking before winter sets in). As with birds, the unexpected is never far away during Scilly season.

WHERE TO GO: Travel to Scilly is by sea or air (to St Mary’s: Tel: 0845 710 5555; www.islesofscillytravel. co.uk). Several planes per day depart Lands End and Newquay, with single flights from Exeter, Bristol and Southampton. The MV Scillonian sails once daily, departing Penzance. There is no transport of any kind on/off Scilly on Sundays, meaning a long weekend is essential. Shame!

Members of St Mary’s Boatmen’s Association (Tel: 01720 423 999; www. scillyboating.co.uk) run boats between and around the islands. Hiring a bike enables you to cover more of St Mary’s (St Mary’s Bike Hire: Tel: 07796 638 506; www.stmarysbikehire.co.uk).

SUGGESTED BASES: Accommodation is scattered across the main islands (www.simplyscilly.co.uk, www. scillyonline.co.uk).

St Mary’s has the widest range and is the centrifugal point for day-trips. It is the logical base for a short trip but that should not prevent you from exploring other islands if time allows. The Belmont (Tel: 01720 423 154; www. the-belmont.co.uk) is on the edge of Hugh Town and is a double-fronted property with six spacious bedrooms.

FLEXIBILITY: Any time midSeptember to the end of October can be excellent for vagrant birds. Grey seal is resident but breeds October to December. Stick insects are best August to October. Lesser whitetoothed shrew and rockpool creatures are resident.

RECOMMENDED READING: Purchase James Lowen’s 52 Wildlife Weekends at the special price of £7.79 (inc free UK p&p) by visiting www. bradtguides.com and using the discount code WT52. Offer expires 19/02/15

OCTOBER 2014 23

WildUK Spotter’s guide

Droppings Droppings, or scat, are the best clue to the existence of mammal species in an area. Stuart Edmunds and Michael Rogers of the Shropshire and Durham Wildlife Trusts pick six of the most identifiable

Otter Lutra lutra Otter droppings were given the unique name of ‘spraint’ in medieval times, which derives from the French espraindre for ‘squeeze out’.

Unlike other animal scats, spraint is described as sweet-smelling, which is due to a scent excretion lining of the animal’s digestive tract with which individual otters mark their extensive territories of 20km or more.

Spraints are usually left in prominent places along waterways and contain multiple bones of their preferred prey: small fish and amphibians.

Colour: oily black

Fox Vulpes vulpes Fox scats are important for marking trails for navigation, as foxes can roam over huge distances. They are highly variable and are easily mistaken for the scats of other mammals. However, they are usually twisted at one end and the easiest method of identification, other than the distinctive foul odour, is signs of calcification. Foxes tend to crunch through small bones, so a high percentage of their scat is of calcium origin.

Because of this it tends to turn grey/white within a few days.

Colour: black and brown to grey

Badger Meles meles Badger scat is foul-smelling in a way that is often described as earthy or musky. A large percentage of badger diet consists of earth worms, which they literally suck out of the ground like strings of spaghetti, so scats tend to be muddy in appearance. They are very dependant on the individual’s diet; in autumn when berries are numerous, scats become purple in colour, while in spring they contain high concentrations of beetle wing cases.

Badgers tend to make deposits in a latrine or “dung-pit”, which marks territorial boundaries.

Colour: muddy brown or purple

Pine marten Martes martes Pine marten scat is most easily identifiable by its odour, which has been described as being comparable to damp hay, or by some experts to Palma Violet sweets. The droppings are usually between 5cm and 10cm in length and have a twist running throughout them. Unlike foxes, there are rarely bone fragments present as martens tend to avoid crunching bones.

Pine martens use scat to mark territories and define routes throughout forests, often taking advantage of forest trails made by humans.

Colour: dark brown

Brown hare (Lepus europaeus Hare droppings are very similar to rabbit droppings, with which you may be more familiar, but tend to be larger – up to 1.5cm in diameter – and are always coarser, due to the rough grasses and rushes that hares prefer to feed on. They are often found in piles on clear patches in the middle of hay meadows.

Traditionally, hare droppings were given the name “crotiles” by huntsmen, who used them as a method of tracking the hares’ trails in order to set snares.

Colour: pale in winter, dark in summer

Water Vole Arvicola amphibius Water voles are very territorial rodents, especially the females who, in breeding season, will extensively mark their home ranges using latrine sites. Water vole latrines are easily recognisable as they comprise a number of Tic Tac-shaped droppings with rounded tips, deposited on top of old, flattened droppings. As the female deposits her faeces she rubs her hind feet against lateral scent glands and deposits her unique scent on the latrine.

Colour: dark green when fresh

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OCTOBER 2014 25

Clockwise from left: the wetlands and reedbeds of the reserve attract lots of interesting wildlife; a peacock butterfly; a prize species of Potteric Carr, the bittern

Tour of Britain

Potteric Carr The floodplain of the River Torne, southeast of Doncaster, is managed by Yorkshire Wildlife Trust as marshland, with great habitat for wetland species At 200 hectares, Potteric Carr is the UK’s largest inland wetland outside of London. The area is covered with marsh and meadow, wet woodlands, reedbeds and stretches of open water. Year-round it hosts an impressive array of birds, insects, and mammals. These can be seen from a network of waymarked trails and nature paths that are wheelchair accessible, as well as from the 14 hides, the majority of which have entrance ramps.

as well as on land, hunting frogs. There have been 28 species of butterflies recorded on the reserve and 21 species of dragonflies. The many native water and meadow plants attract a huge range of other insects, too, including hoverflies, moths, spiders and beetles. The bird list for the marshes, meadows and woodland is impressive at more than 230 species, including kingfishers, marsh harriers, peregrines, willow warblers, wheatears and three species of owls.

History

Seasonal highlights

In the 17th century the land was drained for farming but in the 1950s coal was mined under the area, which caused subsidence and so the wetlands returned. In 1968, Yorkshire Wildlife Trust created a nature reserve on 13 hectares that had been purchased, and this has been extended onto bought or leased land ever since. With each phase of expansion, volunteers for the Trust have improved the habitats and the facilities for visitors.

Winter is busy on the reserve as migrant birds flock to the wetlands. This is a good time to spot bitterns hunting among the reeds for fish. The reserve rangers will be able to pinpoint the best locations for a sighting. Then all you have to do is sit patiently and wait for one of these rare and elusive birds to appear. As the foliage thins you can often catch sight of roe deer among the trees.

Winter ducks and waders abound, with goldeneye, teal, shovelers and wigeon, snipe, golden plover, black-tailed godwit and spotted redshank, as well as visiting whooper and Bewick’s swans, pink-footed geese, and winter migrant thrushes such as redwings.

Last year a great white egret was seen at Huxter Well Marsh in October and cetti’s warblers were to be found at Decoy and Piper Marshes throughout the same month.

Wildlife Mammals on the site include roe deer, foxes, water shrews and harvest mice. Highland cattle and Hebridean sheep roam the grassy areas, employed in a conservation grazing programme. Great crested newts inhabit some of the pools, along with smooth and palmate newts and many common frogs and toads. Grass snakes can also be found, in the water

26 OCTOBER 2014

NEED TO KNOW LOCATION: Sedum House, Mallard Way, Doncaster DN4 8DB. The reserve is signposted off the A6182 (White Rose Way), which can be accessed from Junction 3 of the M18. Nearest train station is Doncaster.

FACILITIES: The Kingfisher Tearooms are open for lunches and cream teas from 10.00am to 4.00pm from October to March and from 10.30am to 4.30pm from April to September. The toilets are located in the tearoom. There is also a shop which stocks gifts, books and optical equipment.

OPENING TIMES AND PRICES: The nature reserve is open from 9.00am to 5.00pm.

The car park also closes at 5.00pm but you can arrange to stay later by asking at the reception desk at the entrance.

Adults £4; children £2; concessions £2.50; members of the Wildlife Trust go free CONTACT DETAILS: www.ywt.org.uk/potteric-carr

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© DP LANDSCAPES, SUSAN & ALLAN PARKER, ROBERT ASKEW/ALAMY

What

WildUK Trending

Events

Shooting match Following a recent debate at the Royal Society on the impact that shooting has on wildlife conservation, two leading figures from each side put forward their views

© ALAMY

CHRIS PACKHAM Naturalist and broadcaster I am not an idealist. I don’t understand the need to kill anything for pleasure myself and the thought is abhorrent to me, but I do understand other people have that sense/need. If I could snap my fingers together and all shooting would stop I would, but I am a pragmatist and that will never happen. So we need to work together; we need to find a way where both interests can prosper.

However, that won’t happen when we are left with just three or four breeding pairs of hen harriers in the UK. They are being killed to preserve the grouse numbers, as the game hunting fraternity want to shoot lots of grouse.

That is not sustainable, that is illegal.

I think there are a lot of responsible shooters in the UK who want to do their hunting in a rich environment, but I don’t understand why they are tolerant of the idiots who are dragging their sport into the dirt.

The longer they extend their tolerance, the more trouble they are going to get into.

If I were a member of the shooting fraternity at the moment, I would be working very hard to sort out the bad guys and make sure we got rid of all the people that are doing anything illegal. But they haven’t done that. We have been asking them to for the last 30 years and we are left with just three or four pairs of hen harriers. They have failed us and I don’t trust them and that’s why I am a signatory on the grouse hunting ban. They have lost my trust. For 30 years shooters have listened to what we’ve had to say and then have gone round the corner and shot hen harriers.

Wildlife crime is not yet seen as a real crime.

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ANDREW GILRUTH Game & Wildlife Conservation Trust These wonderful moors exist because generations of moor owners have not taken huge grants from successive governments to drain them, fence them, plant conifers on them, carpet them with sheep and cover them with roads and tracks. They did so because they loved these wild places and the occasional chance to shoot grouse. This heather moorland, of the sort maintained by grouse shooting, is one of the rarest habitat types and we should treasure it.

Properly conducted grouse shoots are a force for good. They provide current and future refuges for wildlife.

Repeated studies we’ve conducted have proven that legal predator control, conducted on grouse moors by gamekeepers, benefits threatened species.

The traditions of grouse moors are being challenged, but this is healthy. They can and must do better in several ways; including restoring their hen harrier populations. Studies have shown that there is genuine wildlife conflict between red grouse and hen harriers. That conflict was illustrated on a driven grouse moor at Langholm where shooting was abandoned because the hen harriers ate over a third of all grouse chicks that hatched. With no grouse shooting, the local culture, economy and employment suffered and the control of generalist predators ceased – this was a real lose/lose situation. The government has brought conservationists and gamekeepers together to produce a joint recovery plan for hen harriers – one that removes the wildlife conflict. Why? They recognise the value to the landscape, biodiversity and rural economies.

SOPHIE DICKENS SCULPTURE EXHIBITION 1-24 October; Sladmore Contemporary, 32 Bruton Place, London Scultures of 13 creeping, running and crawling rats in bronze, by Sophie Dickens (Charles Dickens’ great great granddaughter). www.sophiedickens.co.uk

SIBERIA: AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD EXHIBITION 4 October -1 March The Manchester Museum A multi-disciplinary exhibition that, through photography and objects, explores the natural history and culture of Siberia, a territory that is one and a half times bigger than Europe. www.museum.manchester.ac.uk

WILDSCREEN PHOTOGRAPHY FESTIVAL 2014 24-26 October; Royal Geographical Society, London Three days of workshops and talks from 22 of the world’s best wildlife photographers, including the keynote talk by photojournalist and dedicated conservationist Tim Laman. www.wildphotos.org.uk OCTOBER 2014 27

DAY TRIP I UK

LONG WEEKEND I UK

OR HOME AWAY? We round up the best wildlife watching experiences for October, with ideas for days out, weekends away and short and long haul breaks – but which gets your vote?

WORDS BY WILLIAM GRAY

MINI BREAK I HUNGARY

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LONG HAUL I CANADA

OCTOBER 2014 29

Seal pup spotting

Clockwise from left: a baby grey seal takes a moment to rest; nesting colonies of common murre; sea cliffs and lighthouse on Inner Farne

Farne Islands, Northumberland Some 80,000 pairs of breeding seabirds (including puffins, guillemots and Arctic terns) may have left the Farne Islands in July, but the archipelago’s wildlife spectacle continues throughout autumn thanks to its thriving population of Atlantic grey seals – the largest colony in England. October is a prime month for pupping when seal numbers swell to over 4,000. Last season, most of the Farnes’ 1,575 pups were born on four islands: Staple, South Wamses, North Wamses and Brownsman.

A boat trip from Seahouses on the mainland allows good views of seals basking on rocks – especially at low tide when the number of islands increases from 15 to 28. However, to truly experience the sights, sounds and smells of a seal colony, join one of the ranger-led seal tours operated by the National Trust – custodians of the Farne Islands. They run from 13-31 October and allow you to get up close and personal with the large nursery on Staple Island. You’ll be able to go ashore and observe mothers suckling young (conspicuous in their white fur) and dominant males – or beachmasters – patrolling their shoreline territories.

Boats depart Seahouses Monday-Friday at 11am, 12pm, and 1pm; Saturday-Sunday at 12pm, 1pm, and 2pm. Book direct with Glad Tidings (www.farne-islands.com) or Serenity (www.farne islandstours.co.uk). Numbers are restricted to minimise disturbance to the seals and the tours are very much weather dependent.

Until they are around three weeks of age, pups remain on land at the mercy of autumn and winter storms. Fortunately, the notorious storm surge of December 2013 resulted in low pup mortality.

Follow the islands’ wildlife on the excellent ranger blog at farnephoto.blogspot.co.uk.

30 OCTOBER 2014

AT A GLANCE COST RATING: WHEN TO GO: Inner Farne is open 1 April–31 October while Staple Island is open 1 May–31 July, plus seal tours in October

OTHER WILDLIFE: Migrants, such as thrushes, buntings, pipits and gulls visit the islands at this time of year BOOK NOW: National Trust (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ farne-islands) wildlifeextra.com

© GLYN THOMAS/ALAMY, PAUL VAN HOOF/FLPA, DAVID TIPLING/FLPA, DAVID J SLATER/ALAMY, SOUTH WEST IMAGES SCOTLAND/ALAMY

DAY TRIP I UK

HOMEORAWAY? LONG WEEKEND I UK

Red deer rut Galloway Forest Park, Scotland Britain’s largest land mammal struts its stuff this month as the red deer rut reaches fever pitch.

Weighing up to 190kg, adult stags swagger back to the home range to compete for hinds by engaging in testosterone-charged displays. Roaring and bellowing, they size up rival males by ‘parallel walking’. This is usually sufficient to deter a smaller individual from escalating matters, but similar sized stags may need to lock antlers in order to fully assess dominance. Serious injury, even death, can result from such duels, but the overall victor claims exclusive mating with the hinds.

One of the best places to witness the mighty clash of rutting red deer, Galloway Forest Park covers around 75,000 hectares of mountain, moorland, woodland and loch. There’s no need to scour the remote highlands of this wild swathe of southwest Scotland to catch sight of a roaring stag – the park’s Red Deer Range allows you to see them up-close from a viewing area and hide. During October, there are also special events, such as ranger-led walks and talks to coincide with the rutting season.

Staff at the nearby visitor centres at Kirroughtree and Clatteringshaws can advise on the best and safest walking and mountain biking trails to explore the forest park in more detail. Check out the red squirrel hide at Kirroughtree and visit the Wild Goat Park, just off the Queensway, which bisects the park. The Carrick Forest Drive has a black grouse viewing platform, while the 40km Galloway Kite Trail around Loch Ken has a feeding station to entice these raptors into close view. Even after dusk falls in Galloway Forest Park keep your binoculars and scopes handy – it’s been designated the UK’s first Dark Sky Park, promising heavenly views of constellations and planets on clear nights.

Below, clockwise from top: red deer stags rut on the edge of Scots pine woodland; a wild goat nanny in Wild Goat Park, Galloway Forest Park; Loch Trool, Scotland

AT A GLANCE COST RATING: WHEN TO GO: Sep-Oct for the red deer rut; May-Jun to see calves

OTHER WILDLIFE: Black grouse, golden eagle, nightjar, osprey, otter, peregrine, pine marten, red kite, red squirrel, wild goat BOOK NOW: Forestry Commission Scotland (scotland.forestry.gov.uk/ forest-parks/gallowayforest-park)

DID YOU KNOW?

Although the red deer is native to Britain, it is found as far east as China and Mongolia, and as far south as Australia

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OCTOBER 2014 31

MINI BREAK I HUNGARY

Carnival of the cranes Hortobágy National Park, Hungary

AT A GLANCE COST RATING: WHEN TO GO: October for cranes; May-June for spring migration

OTHER WILDLIFE: Butterflies, dragonflies and amphibians such as fire-bellied toads BOOK NOW: Limosa Holidays (www.limosaholidays.co.uk)

© EPA/ALAMY, MICHAEL DURHAM/FLPA, STEVE BLOOM IMAGES/ALAMY, MATTHIAS BREITER/FLPA, SUZI ESZTERHAS/FLPA

One of Europe’s greatest bird spectacles takes place this month on the steppes of Eastern Hungary. No less than 100,000 Eurasian (or common) cranes – a quarter of the world population – touch down in Hortobágy National Park during their annual pilgrimage from breeding grounds in the Baltic, Scandinavia and Russia to overwintering sites along the North African coast. During peak migration in mid-October, it’s not unusual to find 20,000 birds in a single roost, their lanky outlines and flouncy tail feathers silhouetted against a smouldering autumn sunset.

During the day, the cranes disperse to feed on Hortobágy’s pond-studded plains and roadside fields, mingling with another stately grassland specialist – the great bustard – along with huge flocks of Russian white-fronted, eastern greylag and taiga bean geese. The steppes are also a favoured hunting ground for several species of birds of prey – during October you can expect to see eastern imperial and white-tailed eagles, long-legged and rough-legged buzzards, goshawk, saker and kestrel, as well as large winter roosts of long-eared owl. The lakes, meanwhile, often turn up bearded tit, bittern, great white egret and pygmy cormorant, as well as passage waders such as little stint, ruff and spotted redshank.

Established in 1973, Hortobágy protects Europe’s single largest swathe of natural grassland.

People have farmed this 82,000-hectare area for millennia, raising ancient breeds like Hungarian grey cattle and Raczka sheep. Herdsmen still roam the Great Plain on horseback, watering their livestock at ‘sweep-pole wells’. The fact that some 340 bird species have been recorded here is testament to the region’s deep-rooted and harmonious coexistence between people and nature.

Clockwise from top: Eurasian cranes gather in a pond on the steppe of Hortobágy; the cranes fly over a pond at sunset; a black crowned night-heron

32 OCTOBER 2014

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HOMEORAWAY?

LONG HAUL I CANADA

Eye to eye with ice bears

Clockwise from left: polar bears sparring on Cape Churchill; an Arctic fox on frozen tundra; Hudson Bay in spring

Churchill, Manitoba With luck, you can spot polar bears on a summer voyage through the Svalbard archipelago, or by venturing to the Arctic coastal fringes of Alaska or Russia. But nowhere can compete with Churchill – a frontier town on the shores of Hudson Bay – for almost guaranteed sightings of the ice bear. Timing is crucial though. The bears gather on the bay’s tundra shore waiting for the sea to freeze over so they can move out onto the ice to hunt seals. Peak months are October and November when it’s not unusual to see half a dozen bears in a single outing.

Bear safaris in the Churchill Wildlife Management Area take place in polar rovers – custombuilt, giant wheeled buses that advance ponderously (and with minimal impact) across the tundra. Sliding windows and an outdoor platform ensure superb (and safe) views of the bears, which often approach the rovers, standing on their hindlegs to stare up at the occupants. Coming face to face with the world’s largest land predator is a humbling and unforgettable experience, but equally rewarding is the sight of these magnificent creatures roaming the wild, bleak expanse of the Hudson Bay coast. You may see them foraging through kelp piled deep on pebbly coves by autumn gales, or sleeping under wind-pruned thickets of willow. Where several male bears gather in the same location, they often engage in play fights, hugging, shoving and cuffing one another.

For the ultimate polar bear experience at Churchill, book a night in the Tundra Lodge (www. greatwhitebeartours.com). Sleeping up to 36 people, this static ‘train’ of wheeled cabins is stationed close by the shore of Hudson Bay deep in polar bear territory. wildlifeextra.com

AT A GLANCE COST RATING: WHEN TO GO: OctoberNovember is peak season for polar bears; May-June for geese migration; summer for beluga whales

OTHER WILDLIFE: Arctic fox, caribou, gyrfalcon, snowy owl, willow ptarmigan BOOK NOW: Discover the World (www.discover-the-world.co.uk) OCTOBER 2014 33

&

Cat grouse Words by EMMA THOMSON

© PETER CAIRNS

Africa may have its big cats, but a safari on Scotland’s Ardnamurchan Peninsular offers the possibility of spotting the country’s very own feisty wild feline, which is just as coveted by those fortunate enough to glimpse them

34 OCTOBER 2014

Trip Report

SCOTTISH WILDCAT

Broader of face and stockier in body than a domestic cat, the Scottish wildcat is a breed on the verge of extinction

OCTOBER 2014 35

The

nightis as black as a

A lick of breeze comes in through the open window of the Jeep and I crane my head to survey the star studded sky overhead. We roll and bounce across the plains in silence – scanning the bush with our bright beam of light, looking for the telltale eye shine of creatures of the night.

Forget Africa and her big cats, we are on a Caledonian safari in search of a smaller feline – the Scottish wildcat.

Almost-an-island Ardnamurchan juts out 17 miles into the whale-rich Atlantic Ocean, just north of the Isle of Mull in the Highlands. Site of the most westerly point on the UK mainland, it’s a windswept swathe of pine-and-birch forest, thistle-studded moors, home to red and black grouse, and volcanic white sand bays accessed only by single-track roads.

Just 1,200 humans inhabit the peninsula, the rest is given over to nature and it’s one of the few places left in Britain where you can glimpse the feisty wildcat.

So our group downs bitter coffee and sets out in the 4x4 at 11.00pm, in search of a pair of golden eyes. I sit upfront beside Neil, our night-drive guide and a fourth-generation head stalker in charge of the Ardnamurchan estate. He knows every bend, hillock and bay, and has an accent as thick as the fleeces on the sheep sleeping on the roadside.

“We’ll use a red lamp instead of a white light, so the animals dinae get stressed,” he says, as he noses the car along the

36 OCTOBER 2014

lanes, leaning his arm out of the window and scanning the beam over the horizon. And, as if to prove his point, three shapes appear on the hill in front of us. Neil shuts off the light, trundles closer, and switches it back on. There, barely 10m to our left, three stags are standing their ground, their antlers sprouting like wizened oak trees from their noble heads.

“Fat as butter, that one,” Neil comments proudly. He’s a self-confessed deer anorak and of the 1,800 mix of red and roe grazing on the estate he can recognise all the alpha males and bloodlines. Further along, Neil points out “a wee lady having a sup with her mum” and “a bull with his lady loves”, but his chest broadens even more when we stumble across the estate’s herd of 35 Père David’s deer – an ancient species originally from China and saved from extinction by the English aristocracy.

“At least they did something useful!” quips Neil.

Their Chinese name, milu, means ‘not like the others’ because they have the neck of a camel, the hooves of a cow and the tail of a donkey. “When they rut, it’s like ballet,” he swoons, “nothing like the violence of the reds!”

But we’re sighting deer like sitting ducks now and we hunger for something more elusive. Neil puts his palm to his lips and starts sucking. The high-pitched squeak mimics a distressed young woodpecker and usually attracts pine martens and red fox. Within minutes, three sets of eyes are glaring back at the red light – a vixen and two cubs, but they scamper over the hill’s cusp before we can get a good look.

By 3.30am, my eyes and optimism are sagging. A wildcat

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© EMMA THOMSON

badger’s paw.

Clockwise from above: Camas nan Geall Bay on the Ardnamurchan peninsula; the Scottish argus butterfly; the iconic Highland cow; a botanist studies a wild flower on the Island of Carna

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OCTOBER 2014 37

Trip Report

SCOTTISH WILDCAT From the top: common dolphins bounding over the waves in coastal waters; the Scottish wildcat, our last large-mammal predator; a red squirrel checks the neighbourhood for danger

WITHIN A WHISKER

OF EXTINCTION There are moves to save the Scottish wildcat but the question remains if they will be in time

T sighting seems unlikely. Then, as we approach some farm outbuildings, Neil cuts through our quiet chatter.

“There’s one! By the fence!” he whispers excitedly. We whip our binoculars up to our eyes and peer into the darkness. A feline form slinks in front of the headlights, eyes blazing. We sit in silence, collectively holding our breath. Then, cautiously, Dave – a fellow group member – pipes up from the back of the Jeep. “Erm, it’s wearing a collar.”

Neil visibly slumps, “Auch, dash it,” he curses, lowering his binoculars. It’s just a regular tabby with a diva strut.

© MICHAEL STALLWOOD, PETER CAIRNS,/NORTHSHOTS, MAKSYM GORPENYUK

U

ndeterred, we head out the next morning, a Welsh-born nature guide, Marcus John, at the wheel. With a kestrel-sharp intellect and eye, he points as we drive along: a sand-martin colony holed up in a mud bank, meadow pipits darting into hedges and, rolling down the window so we can listen, the barking laugh of displaying diamond-tailed ravens. They flick upside down, plummet, and upright themselves before soaring away.

“How can you name something from the merest flash of a wingtip or tail?” I ask. “The longer I spend in the field, the luckier I get,” he replies, with a wink.

I peer out at the dreich drizzle that hangs over Ben Hiant – the highest hill on Ardnamurchan – as we drive towards Loch Mudle (pronounced ‘Moodle’), looking for red-throated divers. Purple arrows of foxgloves spring from the roadside ditches and the plains are dotted with sedge clumps and buttercups.

“Large bird to the right,” yells Dave.

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he Scottish wildcat (Felis silvestris grampia) isn’t just a stocky tabby cat. With a wide jaw, a distinctive bushy black-and-brown ringed tail with a blunt black tip, and about twice the size of an average housecat, these solitary nocturnal felines live in woodland and hunt rabbit, vole and mice in open pastures. They are Britain’s last large-mammal predator and are teetering on the brink of extinction.

The main threat they face is hybridisation. Shrinking habitats lead to interbreeding with feral and domestic cats – which also pass on diseases. If left unchecked, hybridisation will dilute pure-wildcat DNA to the point of genetic extermination. Now found only in northern Scotland, exact estimates of their population vary from 400 to just 35 individuals.

Dr Paul O’ Donoghue, lecturer of Biological Sciences at Chester University, has developed a genetic test to screen the wildcat genome and enable scientists to separate pure wildcats from hybrid species, but boosting their numbers remains a challenge.

Currently, captive breeding-for-release programmes are the only steps being taken to ensure the wildcat’s survival. However, the Scottish Wildcat Association (www. scottishwildcats.co.uk) – soon to be the Wildcat Trust – is seeking funding for a conservation area called Wildcat Haven set in 1,000 square miles of the West Highlands.

Just a year ago, the chances of seeing a wildcat in Ardnamurchan were 50/50, but a drastic decline over the last 12 months has made sightings rare. Believed to be one of the last pure-wildcat strongholds in Scotland, questions are being asked about whether it is fair to pass legislation asking cat owners to neuter pets and make them wear a bell in areas where wildcat are present. The fight for this icon of Scottish clan heraldry continues.

OCTOBER 2014 39

A red deer stag bellows out his territorial rights

40 OCTOBER 2014

wildlifeextra.com

Trip Report

SCOTTISH WILDCAT

Marcus grinds the minibus to a halt and jumps out, aiming his ‘bins’ at the sky.

“A white-tailed eagle!” he exclaims, and everyone clambers out of the bus emitting squeals of excitement. We watch it wheel above the water for a good five minutes, until Marcus yelps, “Look, a Scotch Argus!”

I scan the sky looking for wings, but see nothing. Dave sidles up and whispers, “It’s a butterfly.”

“Oh!” I mutter, darting my gaze to the undergrowth where, sure enough, a russet-and-red-spot Argus flutters in the heather.

D

ay three dawns brighter and we sail for the Cairns of Coll aboard the Laurenca, skippered by Tom – one of the youngest captains in Scotland – and his black Labrador Dexter, who scampers from starboard to port, sniffing the wind and watching the waves as soon as we cast off.

Steaming along Loch Sunart we spot common porpoise, the size of swimming schoolboys. “Dolphins are like spaniels, they come bounding out of the water,” laughs Tom from the helm.

“Porpoises are like cats, they slink up and slink away.”

The foaming water we trail behind us attracts flaxen-capped gannets that smash through the surface trying to spear fish,

and word of a basking shark cruising around the Colls crackles over the radio, but we never find it.

Nearing the uninhabited islets we spy common seals sunbathing on the rocks, slick as slugs and bent in the middle like a smile. We moor up in a secluded bay for lunch where the glass-clear water is laced with seaweed, and juvenile sand eels shoal through the shallows. An Atlantic grey seal is spread on the crags opposite us like an obese ballerina: toes clasped together and pointed, fins spread high. Its slips into the water and swims closer to the boat, popping its head up to eye us briefly before pirouetting away. An undistracted grey heron stands stock still knee-deep in the water, its beak poised like a murderer’s knife. It stabs, and a rock-pool fish emerges on the tip of its bill.

In addition to the wildcat, another species had eluded us on the trip – the otter. With only a far-off sighting in Kilchoan Bay under our belts we decide to sail for Càrna with island caretaker, Andy, in tow – guaranteed success.

“We saw a total five otters when I was here last week,” boasts Marcus.

Stepping onto the pontoon, Andy shows us a stealth camera trained on a mackerel head pinned under a rock. “We’re using it to find out exactly how many otters there are around here,

Stags are standing their ground, their antlers sprouting like wizened oak trees from their noble heads

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OCTOBER 2014 41

Trip Report

SCOTTISH WILDCAT

TRIP ADVISER

there’s usually only one a kilometre, but we’ve seen more than six.”

We climb the heather-laden hillock and snuggle into the hillside overlooking the loch, trying to make ourselves invisible while we wait for the tide to recede.

“Look near the base of the streams,” Andy instructs. “Otters need to rinse the saltwater off their pelts otherwise they won’t dry, so their holts are always based near freshwater outlets. They also have a ‘couch’, usually a flat patch of grass, where they like to sunbathe.”

COST RATING Emma travelled by train from London Euston direct to Glasgow Central with Virgin Trains (www.virgintrains.co.uk). British Airways (www. ba.com) offer direct flights to Glasgow from all major UK cities, and EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) from all London airports and Belfast.

Expect to pay between £100 and £140 for train and plane fares.

SAMPLE PACKAGE TOUR:

S

o we scan the inlet and the hours pass with no sign of the mischievous mammal. The stillness is snapped when the gulls, which had been feasting on stranded fish in the bay below, suddenly vanish. Surveying the sky, we see why: a white-tailed eagle on the horizon, eyes down and on the lookout.

Back at Andy’s house, we pop the stealth camera cassette into the computer to watch the recordings from the previous night. The salt-and-peppered screen reveals three otters had been scrabbling around the fish head for five hours. “That explains the no-show today,” cracks Andy, “they’re still in bed!”

That’s the joy of an authentic safari: you don’t get lucky every time but, when you do, a sighting is that bit sweeter. It’s not about ticking off high-profile species either. Sometimes, as James Herriot said, it’s about enjoying creatures great and small.

On our Scottish safari, I’d learned to take as much pleasure from spotting dark-green fritillary butterflies and Highlanddarter dragonflies, as from seeing the stags and seals. And as for a sighting of the wildcat, I was secretly rather pleased she lived up to her name. I like to picture that tiger of the Highlands stalking through the grass in my mind’s eye – a Gaelic ghost of the moors, untamable and ever elusive.

Naturetrek offer an 8-day Scotland’s Mammals & Highlights of the Highlands tour from £1,095 per person. Price includes 7 night’s full-board accommodation at the Glenborrodale Centre, transfer from Glasgow Central train station or Glasgow Airport to Ardnamurchan, and boat transfers to the isles of Coll and Muck, but excludes flights or train travel to Glasgow.

Tel: +44 (0)1962 733051; www.naturetrek.co.uk

GETTING THERE: Most visitors take the train to Glasgow Central train station, or fly into Glasgow Airport. Your Naturetrek leader will then meet you and escort you to the minibus for the four-hour drive to Ardnamurchan, with a ferry crossing at Corran (www.lochabertransport.org.uk).

Above: a magestic white-tailed eagle on the lookout for fish Below: common seals bask on the Cairns of Coll

TIPS & WARNINGS: A good pair of binoculars is essential and a telephoto lens is required for descent wildlife photographs. Scottish weather is fickle, so waterproof trousers and a jacket are recommended, too. It’s forbidden to look for wildcat on the Ardnamurchan estate unaccompanied.

The best time to see wildcats is late November– early March when there are long, wet nights. The cats don’t like to get wet and will walk on the road – and food is scarce, so cats have to stray further from their dens in search of a meal.

The deer rutting season starts around 6 October, while August is a better month for seeing minke whale, basking sharks and common dolphins offshore, as well as butterflies and otter.

TOUR OPERATOR

NATURETREK is the only tour operator that currently runs wildlife trips to the area. Tel: +44 (0)1962 733051; www.naturetrek.co.uk 42 OCTOBER 2014

wildlifeextra.com

© MICHAEL STALLWOOD, EMMA THOMSON

WHEN TO GO:

Thespice WORDS & PHOTOS DALE R MORRIS

44 OCTOBER 2014

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oflife wildlifeextra.com

Saved in the nick of time from invasive alien flora and even more destructive titanium mining, South Africa’s iSimangaliso Wetland Park contains a huge and diverse range of habitats, supporting many of the most iconic creatures to be found on earth

OCTOBER 2014 45

THE WILDLIFE OF SOUTH AFRICA’S ST LUCIA GREATER WETLAND PARK, NOW KNOWN AS ISIMANGALISO WETLAND PARK, HAS, IN THE PAST, SUFFERED GREATLY. Much of this 1,280 square mile World Heritage Site lay beneath a monotonous monoculture of pine or Eucalyptus trees. The estuarine lake systems there, which are the largest in Africa, were silted and over fished.

Virtually all of the region’s big game had been purposefully eliminated in an attempt to control tsetse flies, and the beaches were forever being squashed beneath the tyres of four wheel drive vehicles.

Some creatures clung on in a scattered and fractured series of small nature reserves, but for the best part, The Greater St Lucia Park was a biological ghost town.

And then something really bad happened, but this time it had a very positive effect on the future of iSimangaliso.

A mining company put in a proposal to strip titanium from the region’s sand dunes; a metal which, due to its thermic qualities, acts as an egg incubator for the most southerly 46 OCTOBER 2014

population of sea turtles in Africa. The firm planned on clearing all the ancient coastal forests from these dunes before sucking up all the sand with giant dredgers.

Jobs would have been created, but the project (predicted to last just a few years) would have left the area bare, the lakes barren and the coast devoid of coral reefs. It goes without saying that the turtles would have died.

Fortunately, more than half a million concerned citizens signed a petition to put a halt to this unsustainable project.

Nelson Mandela himself took umbrage to the proposals, and hence, a seed of hope was planted.

That seed grew to become the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, an amazing conservation story and an even more amazing wildlife holiday destination. The mining firms, on the other hand, were all sent packing.

Since the park’s gazettement in 1991 all alien plantations wildlifeextra.com

Take me there

ISIMANGALISO, SOUTH AFRICA

Jewels in the crown Ten places that should not be missed in iSimangaliso 1 MAPHELANE A holiday/fishing camp situated in the extreme south of the park, right on the St Lucia Estuary mouth. Walking trails and access to designated fishing spots make this a popular place to stay.

2 UMKHUZE If you are after a bush vibe, stay here. Wild dog, rhino, lion, elephant, buffalo and leopard are all here to see. Take a guided hike through a giant sycamore fig forest, but don’t forget to take your binoculars and a bird spotter’s book.

3 SODWANA BAY Rated as one of the top dive destinations in the world.

The coelacanth (a prehistoric fish once thought to be extinct) was discovered here in 2000. If you stay a day or two you can snorkel and dive to your heart’s content.

4 LAKE SIBAYA South Africa’s largest freshwater lake, which has no river in and no river out. It is filled by the percolating effect of the sand dunes around it.

One of the largest populations of crocs and hippos in Africa can be found here.

5 LAKE ST LUCIA Arguably the centerpiece for the whole park, Lake St Lucia is huge and beautiful. There are plenty of picnic spots and viewing decks from which you can do a spot of bird, croc and hippo spotting.

6 CAPE VIDAL Swim, snorkel and stay at this delightful camp and then take a few game drives into the surrounding grasslands and forests.

Clockwise from here: aerial view of Kosi Bay estuary; hippos are commonly seen, including in the river and waterways in and around the small town of St Lucia; a plains zebra Right: the semi-aquatic hammerkop

7 WESTERN SHORES AND CHARTERS CREEK Yet more big game opportunities (this is where the elephants hang out) and beautiful lakeside scenery.

8 COASTAL FORESTS Throughout the park, as well as along the coastal dunes you will find islands and swathes of evergreen forests. Keep an eye open for leopards, buffalo and, of course, hundreds of different bird species.

9 KOSI BAY Go snorkeling at the Kosi Bay mouth and take a picnic for the beach. Watch local fishermen tending to their intricate and enormous fish traps.

10 FALSE BAY Rare sand forests and open savannah have a distinctly different look and feel to them than the rest of iSimangaliso. It’s a good choice to go boating on Lake St Lucia or perhaps try your hand at fishing.

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OCTOBER 2014 47

Take me there

ISIMANGALISO, SOUTH AFRICA Clockwise from left: rhinos can be seen in the park, along with the rest of the Big Five, and whales and sharks as well; an aerial view of iSimangaliso’s swamps and lakes; the tropical waters surrounding the park are home to numberous shark species

have been felled, fishing restrictions have been put in place, lodges and camps have been constructed, beach driving banned; and wildlife has been reintroduced.

Now iSimangaliso boasts a remarkable array of ecosystems ranging from grasslands, forests, swamps, and lakes to coral reefs, estuaries, rivers and miles upon miles of untouched subtropical beaches.

Most parks in Africa sell themselves on having the Big Five – buffalo, leopards, lions, rhinos and elephants – but iSimangaliso has sharks and whales as well.

The marketing team calls it a Big Seven destination, a location where you can watch elephants from the deck of your lodge one moment, and whales from the deck of a boat the next.

Traditionally, Kruger National Park has been South Africa’s premier wildlife endpoint, but these days, what with all the land restoration and wildlife reintroductions, iSimangaliso is fast becoming a more interesting alternative. While here, visitors can choose from a variety of activities, including scouting for rhinos, taking a cruise down the river, whale and dolphin watching, scuba diving on coral reefs, going horseback riding among zebras

and kudu, hiking through forests, snorkelling in rock pools, sunbathing on gorgeous beaches, fishing, swimming, seeing a marine turtle laying her eggs or listening to a lion roar.

Commencing on the coast about 150 miles north of the city of Durban and ending at the Mozambique border a further 135 miles away, iSimangaliso is a long, mostly narrow, park incorporating some seven lakes and a marine protected area which extends three nautical miles from the shore.

“Nowhere else on earth can one find the oldest land mammal (the rhino) and the world’s biggest terrestrial mammal (the elephant) living naturally in the same protected area as the ocean’s oldest fish (the coelacanth) and the sea’s biggest mammal (the whale).”

These were the words spoken

by Nelson Mandela when he stopped off to visit the park on the day of its inauguration.

Visitors to iSimangaliso will typically base themselves in the enclave town of St Lucia; a modern little residential suburb where hippos are often seen ambling down the high street.

There are numerous hotels and self-catering units tucked in among the boughs of an African coastal forest. Many overlook

This is typical Zululand; a region of open spaces, untouched oceans and lots and lots of wildlife

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OCTOBER 2014 49

iSimangaliso boasts a remarkable array of ecosystems ranging from grasslands, forests and swamps to coral reefs, rivers and miles of untouched beaches

the estuary and as such, don’t be surprised if you find hippos in the swimming pool and monkeys at the breakfast table.

Boat cruises along the meandering estuary depart several times a day, and are a great way to come face to face (safely) with South Africa’s largest hippo and croc population.

Those with nerves of steel can instead rent a canoe from the nearest backpacker lodge in town. Apparently, very few people have been eaten.

Most whale and dolphin watching boat cruises also

Clockwise from top: dolphins and whales are often seen along the park’s coast; game viewing is very good in iSimangaliso, and you can encounter all the Big Five if you look hard enough; a purple heron in flight; a Zulu warrior; ignore the ‘no swimming’ signs at your peril!

50 OCTOBER 2014

depart from the town of St Lucia, as do turtle nesting tours, but it pays to be here at the right time of year. Loggerhead and leatherback turtles come ashore to lay their eggs between November and January. Humpback whales arrive by June and generally stick around until January.

There are boardwalks around the estuary near town (so you don’t step on any croc nests) and there are good beaches to hang out on, but if you really want to get right into nature its best to stay in the park itself.

The road to Cape Vidal rest camp meanders past Lake St Lucia where crocs and hippos are as common as the mud they wade in, and wading birds (such a flamingoes) are two a penny. Rolling forested dunes prevent you from seeing the sea as you drive, but the grasslands through which you travel are alive with large antelopes such as Kudu, waterbuck and eland.

Rhinos are also commonly encountered.

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Take me there

ISIMANGALISO, SOUTH AFRICA

Returning the animals From an area barren of most wild animals, iSimangaliso has gradually been transformed into a wildlife Eden

Just a stone’s throw from the ocean, the camp itself is a charming little village of self-contained cottages nestled among forested dunes. Red duikers (tiny little antelopes) are always to be found tip-toeing up the garden paths. Samango monkeys, rambunctious and naughty, will often be seen playing upon the accommodation roofs, while the birds are everywhere.

To the west of the 135 square mile Lake St Lucia are yet more grasslands and floodplains, but it is here that you are more likely to encounter giraffes and elephant herds.

There are various picnic spots and elevated pathways to explore, as well as numerous viewing points that look out across the glittering lake.

Keep an eye out for buffalos, rhinos and leopards, and, if you have the budget, stay at Makakatana Lodge, where posh cottages, excellent meals, and guided game drives are all part of the package.

If you are partial to scuba, then you need to visit the enclave village of Sodwana Bay, where near shore coral reefs offer superb diving opportunities.

In the village, there are dive shops and courses for the beginner, so if you don’t already know how to dive, fear not as you can learn.

Daily jaunts out to sea will bring you face to face with typical coral reef denizens, and if you get lucky you might

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Before iSimangaliso was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Park in 1999, much of the big game living there had been wiped out. Colonial hunters, with their blunderbusses and rifles, had done their utmost to shoot anything and everything that moved.Then, in the early to mid-20th century, a government-backed effort to eradicate sleeping sickness (a cattle disease spread by the tsetse fly) wiped out much of what remained. The slaughter only stopped once scientists finally worked out that killing wildlife did not, in any way, reduce the number of tsetse flies to be found in the area.

There have been many more assaults on what is now iSimangaliso, including poaching, the loss of landscapes to pine trees and eucalypt plantations and, finally, the threat of all-out destruction at the hands of

global mining companies.

Once the area had received complete environmental protection (in 1999), a plan was put in place to bring back all of the locally extinct animals through a series of protection reintroduction programmes.

Marine wildlife has since been fully protected from over-fishing and has made a complete comeback. Elephants were rescued from culls elsewhere (mainly Kruger National Park) and were eventually given sanctuary in iSimangaliso. Black and white rhinos were imported and monitored, cheetahs were released, as were all the region’s antelope. A breeding facility was established for iSimangaliso’s beleaguered crocodiles which has resulted in a complete recovery of the species.

The last piece of the puzzle, once the herds of reintroduced buffalo had time to settle in, was the reintroduction of lions. Now, having been almost devoid of large wild animals, iSimangaliso is once again a big five park (lions, rhinos, elephants, leopard and buffalo).

As a bonus, it has a population of lion fish as well!

OCTOBER 2014 51

Take me there

ISIMANGALISO, SOUTH AFRICA even meet a whale shark or two.

Between November and February, scores of raggy tooth sharks congregate off shore, and because they are fasting, it’s perfectly safe to get up close.

North of Sodwana, there are a number of upmarket private lodges that offer some of Africa’s most pristine dive sites.

Friendly groupers, as big as sofas, are commonly encountered, as are loggerhead turtles, sharks and other marine animals.

Wilderness Safaris has a property there called Rock Tail Bay, a five star facility with its own private beaches, expert underwater dive guides and world class chefs. Further north still, and nestled right up against the Mozambican border, is Kosi Bay, a corner of the park that can only be accessed with a high clearance 4x4. Here, one can view a series of magnificent lakes that have been used by local fishing communities for eons. Huge fish traps, made from precisely placed rows of sticks, decorate the lake surface, and look rather like a form of aquatic calligraphy.

Finally, to the far west of the park

, is the uMkhuze section of iSimangaliso; a place of parched bush, gallery forests and typical big game species. Lions were reintroduced here just last year, so if you want a break from the beach and want to get that ‘African bush’ feeling, then uMkhuze is the place to be.

Take a walk along the uMkhuzi river, a game drive along the sandy tracks or stake out a waterhole and see who comes to drink. Nyala (a beautiful antelope species), black rhinos, cheetah, eland and blue wildebeest are commonly seen here. iSimangaliso means ‘Miracle’ in the Zulu language and when one considers that no less than 30 years ago, the whole region was little more than a forest plantation and some overfished lakes, it’s easy to see where the name comes from.

From ashes and dried out rivers sprang one of the most fascinating and fantastic World Heritage Sites on earth.

So, next time you are in South Africa, why not give Kruger a miss and, instead, do yourself a favour and visit the iSimangaliso Greater Wetland Park?

TRIP ADVISER COST RATING SAMPLE PACKAGE TOUR: In January 2015, Tracks Safaris will be offering an eight-night, two-centre stay in iSimangaliso for £1,373 per person with a small car, but excluding international flights. The package includes four nights at the Kosi Forest Lodge with all meals and daily scheduled activites, and four nights at the Thonga Beach Lodge with all meals, guided walks, kayaking, 52 OCTOBER 2014

snorkelling equipment, sundowners on Lake Sibaya and cultural tours to the Mabibi community. Park fees and transfers by 4x4 between Kosi Forest and Thonga Beach are also included.

GETTING THERE: Flights with South African Airways are available from London Heathrow to Richard’s Bay via Johannesburg and cost around £850 per person return.

VISA REQUIREMENTS FROM THE UK: UK citizens are granted a 90-day tourist stay on arrival.

No visas are required.

Above: iSimangaliso is one of the few parks in the world where you can be looking at elephants one moment, and snorkelling on tropical reefs the next.

Left: a male impala

TIPS & WARNINGS: Do not

WHEN TO GO: South African

venture on iSimangaliso’s 4x4 tracks without a proper 4x4 vehicle as there is a danger you will get stuck.

If you are catering for yourself, stock up on food at St Lucia town.

There is a supermarket there and a number of wine shops.

Malaria has been eradicated in iSimangaliso, but you should discuss other inoculations with your doctor before going.

South Africa suffers from crime so be cautious and don’t walk alone.

On the animal front, be careful of elephants as they can be aggressive.

winters are mild(ish) and summers (November to February) are generally hot and can be humid.

However, the best time for turtles is between November and January; the best time for whales is June to January and the best time for sharks is November to February. Christmas and New Year prices can be high, so January is a good all-round choice.

TOUR OPERATOR

TRACKS SAFARIS Tel: 01823 256630 www.trackssafaris.co.uk

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Anatomy of a...

Saltwater crocodile Superbly adapted for hunting in brackish waters, this formidable predator is nonetheless struggling for existence

Reproduction

Breeding happens in the rainy season and the nest site is situated close to the water.

The female makes a mounded nest from mud and vegetation, and lays 50-60 eggs.

She guards the nest as the young incubate for up to 98 days. A low-temperature incubation produces mainly females, while higher temperatures result in mostly males. The hatchlings are then carried to the water and remain with their mother for about eight months.

Body

These are the largest in the crocodilian family.

Average sized males are 5m (17ft) long and weigh 450kg (1,000lb), but they can reach 7m (23ft) and 1,000kg (2,200lb). Adults are dark on top, fading to tan or grey flanks striped with dark bands. Their undersides are pale yellow or white. Small stones tend to be ingested with the crocodile’s prey, which help grind up the food in their stomachs.

Eyes, ears and nostrils These are located on the top of the head so that the animal can lie, virtually undetectable, just under the surface of the water, waiting for its prey to stoop for a drink.

Mouth These crocodiles feed on anything that comes near the edge of the water that they can get their jaws round – monkeys, boars, dingoes, wallabies and even water buffalos. They drag the victim into the water and drown it.

A special valve in the back of the throat enables them to open their mouths wide underwater. They also have special glands to filter salt out of the water, which adapts them to living in their saline world. They have the strongest bite of any animal, the downforce enough to crush a buffalo’s skull, but the muscles to open the jaws are so weak a strong rubber band will keep their mouth shut.

Where in the world?

Legs and feet Despite its great weight and sedentary lifestyle, a saltwater crocodile can run at up to 7mph (11km/h).

Although a reasonably fit human could easily outstrip them in a race, they can generate a sudden burst of speed from the water that would engulf even a top sprinter. With its webbed hind feet and powerful tail the animal performs better in water, swimming over short distances at up to 18mph (29km/h), which is three times the speed of the fastest human swimmer.

Saltwater crocodiles can be found along the east coast of India and around Sri Lanka, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Philippines, Indonesia, Papua New Guinea and northern Australia. They are often found in mangrove swamps and up to 200km inland. Although they mostly live in estuaries, hence their alternative name of estuarine crocodiles, they are frequently seen swimming out at sea. They can live for 70 years in the wild and there are approximately 200,000 to 300,000 around the world, but there is pressure on their numbers because of their reputation for attacking people, and due to the loss of their habitats, particularly for nesting.

Here: Dr Luke Hunter.

Below: in the field with a tagged cougar

56 OCTOBER 2014

wildlifeextra.com

Claws

Interview

DR LUKE HUNTER

for

thought Dr Luke Hunter has dedicated his life to wild cat conservation and, despite the fear of terminal habitat loss and indiscriminate killing, he remains optimistic that lions, tigers, cheetahs and jaguars, among our many other feline species, will survive the present crisis threatening their numbers

© KELLY WEECH/PANTHERA

WORDS BY ANTHONY HAM

wildlifeextra.com

T

here are 38 species of wild cats currently roaming the earth. What would have been the 39th, the Smilodon or Californian sabre-tooth, breathed its last around 10,000 years ago, and never since then has a feline species become extinct. Dr Luke Hunter would very much like to keep it that way.

Dr Hunter, 45, is the president of Panthera, a New York-based NGO that was established as a breakaway from the Great Cats Program of the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS). Tasked with studying the world’s cats and developing programmes to save them, Panthera’s list of founding members reads like a roll-call of august cat biologists, among them Dr George Schaller and Dr Alan Rabinowitz.

Hunter’s journey to the pinnacle of the cat conservation world started in 1992 when he was researching for his PhD on the subject of reintroducing lions and cheetahs into South Africa’s Phinda Game Reserve.

When he began, apartheid was in its dying days, South Africa was on the cusp of a massive tourism boom and interest in the country’s wildlife heritage was growing. His aim was no small task: to find a way to successfully bring lions back into areas from where they had disappeared.

Phinda now has a full complement of lions and is an exporter of lions for translocation to other areas.

What began in Phinda has spread throughout South Africa where there are now 45 lion populations restored that weren’t there in the early 1990s.

OCTOBER 2014 57

In South Africa, Panthera has developed faux-leopard-skin capes to replace the real ones worn by the male members of the Zulu Shembe Church

More than two decades have passed since, but he still carries with him the excitement of those early days in Phinda.

It was there that he first saw lions in the wild and it remains one of his most cherished memories.

“We came around the corner and there they were, two adult lionesses stretched out in the evening sun,” he recalls. “They weren’t doing anything special, but they had been translocated into the reserve and they were the first lions to be seen in this area in a very long time.”

Hunter remains at his happiest when talking about cats or, better still, watching them in the wild: “I’m at my best when I’m out in the wilderness on field trips. To be in the presence of cats – I never tire of it. Just when you think you know everything, a cat will do something you’ve never seen before.”

Hunter’s experience at Phinda, one of South Africa’s most popular reserves, taught him the close connection between tourism and conservation. He also learned the dangers when that connection is mishandled.

In recent years, for example, Hunter has taken aim at the ‘lion encounter’ phenomenon, whereby travellers pay a 58 OCTOBER 2014

premium to spend time in the presence of lions, sometimes even walking alongside them. Often they do so on a promise that these captive-born lions will one day be released into the wild as part of some ill-defined conservation initiative.

“Apart from the dangers inherent in walking alongside a fully grown lion, it’s simply not true that these programmes help save lions,” he says. “Captive-origin lions have no role in restoring the species to its historic range.

“My advice is to spend your money where it really helps conservation. Most travellers who spend money in this way really do want to make a difference. But there’s a big difference between a theme park and conservation.”

He also knows that, as was the case in Phinda, when conservation succeeds the benefits are immense, both for the planet and for those who would explore it.

“Cats are most ecosystems’ top predators. Protect these cats and you end up protecting entire ecosystems. You can see the effect that it has when you restore predators. Just look at Yellowstone after the wolves went back in. We’ve seen a cascade of natural ecological restoration as a result. Carnivores wildlifeextra.com

Interview

DR LUKE HUNTER

© LEILA BAHAA-EL-DIN/PANTHERA, STEVE WINTER/PANTHERA

Clockwise from left: creative ways are being found to preserve leopards in Africa; the lives of tiger cubs are uncertain; detailed records of remaining populations are vital; Tiger Programme Director, Dr Joe Smith, with colleagues in Indonesia

are umbrellas for a whole lot of other species. Some of the places where cats prosper – watersheds, forests – are some of the earth’s most important wilderness areas. By protecting cats, we are also protecting some of the world’s most important ecosystems.”

Having spent most of his adult life studying the world’s cats at close quarters, Hunter is also keen to emphasise tourism’s positive role in conservation, especially if travellers take a few tips into account.

“Go to the national parks,” he advises. “These parks and other protected areas are sustained by tourism, and if people use them, governments and the private sector will understand their worth. Once there, you have to be patient. Sit and wait.

You never know what’s about to happen. Too many people try to see too much. Get to know a few places really well and you’ll be rewarded.”

Hunter recognises that numbers are an important part of the debate in saving endangered species and a critical element of Panthera’s work involves conducting accurate surveys of endangered cat populations. wildlifeextra.com

Panthera scientists, for example, led the discovery that the West African lion was in far worse state than had been feared – just four small populations where previously 21 had been thought to survive.

Panthera also undertook a lion census in Kenya’s Tsavo National Park in 2013. What they discover will shape conservation initiatives for years to come, not least because the lions of Tsavo are thought to represent one-third of Kenya’s entire lion population.

And yet, he is also critical of those who become obsessed with numbers: “It’s the wrong question to ask ‘How many?’,” he says. “It is far better to ask about the trajectory, about the state of the ecosystems. Take lions for example. There are perhaps at most an estimated 32,000 lions left in Africa. But many of these live in small and isolated populations that simply aren’t viable. Instead, we need to ask how much habitat has been lost and how much these cats can afford to lose. By these measurements, very few cat species are on a positive trajectory. In the case of the lion, they inhabit less than 20 per cent of their historical range. For tigers it’s even OCTOBER 2014 59

Best places to see...

The pick of places to see the world’s big cats, in terms of visibility and their conservation LIONS

1. Etosha National Park, Namibia 2. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Botswana and South Africa 3. Parc National du W, Benin 4. Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe 5. Niassa National Park, Mozambique 6. Ruaha National Park, Tanzania 7. Gir Forest National Park and Wildlife Sanctuary, India

LEOPARDS

worse – they survive in seven per cent of their historical range, and the breeding population lives in just one per cent of that.”

Although optimistic about the future, Hunter is nevertheless a pragmatist: “Pristine forests and other habitats are simply unrealistic in many places, much as we’d like it to be otherwise. We need to know more about these cats to know what level of modification is acceptable. Once we know that, we can work with governments within the habitats that remain. We can’t afford to assume that human activities are always incompatible with conservation.

“For example, one of Panthera’s biggest priorities is building jaguar corridors that connect jaguar habitats and populations in Central and South America. In doing so, we’ve been hugely successful in getting the relevant statutory authorities to sign off on protections they wouldn’t otherwise consider. There’s a dam in Costa Rica that we would prefer wasn’t going to be there, but the government is going to build it whatever we say.

Instead, we’ve been talking with the government and we 60 OCTOBER 2014

JAGUARS

1. The Cuiaba River Basin in the Pantanal, Brazil 2. The Rewa River and Rupununi savannas, Guyana 3. Torteguero National Park, Costa Rica (where jaguars patrol the beaches looking for nesting turtles) 4. Cockscomb Wildlife Sanctuary and Jaguar Preserve, Belize

CHEETAHS

1. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in the dry season, South Africa and Botswana 2. Liuwa Plains National Park, Zambia 3. Phinda Game Reserve, South Africa 4. Linyanti & Savuti, Okavango Delta, Botswana 5. Masai Mara & Serengeti, Kenya and Tanzania 6. Parc National du W, Benin

TIGERS

1. Ranthambore, Corbett and Kanha National Parks, India 2. Kaziranga National Park, Assam, India 3. Chitwan National Park, Nepal

believe that we’ve managed to reduce the dam’s impact.”

Panthera is well placed to respond to these and the other challenges faced by each species and it was this imperative that drove Hunter and his fellow cat conservationists to leave the fold of the Wildlife Conservation Society back in 2006.

“Panthera was Tom Kaplan’s idea,” Hunter says of Panthera’s billionaire benefactor. ‘We wanted to be lean enough to have the flexibility to be able to do whatever needed to be done. Thanks to Tom’s generosity, and now that of other Panthera board members, every cent that we receive from donors goes directly to the field, to the work of saving the world’s cats.”

For the cats about which scientists know relatively little, such as the snow leopard, that means devoting more resources to research. When it comes to lions, about which so much is already known, Panthera focuses on programmes that put that research to practical use.

“That’s why the programmes we have developed of using wildlifeextra.com

© STEVE WINTER/PANTHERA, NEIL MIDLANE/PANTHERA

Above: a snow leopard in Ladakh, India.

Right: Mustapha Nsubuga, Joel Ziwa, and Luke Hunter fit a radio collar on a lioness called Masika in the Kigezi Wildlife Reserve, Uganda

1. The private conservancies west of Kruger National Park, South Africa 2. Luangwa North and South national parks, Zambia 3. Etosha National Park in the dry season (Namibia) 4. The Western Ghats, including Bandipur National Park, India 5. Ruhunu National Park, Sri Lanka

Interview

DR LUKE HUNTER

© KELLY WEECH

An Asiatic cheetah in the hills of Iran

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traditional warriors to protect both their communities and local lion populations are so important,” Hunter explains. “They began in Kenya but now they’re spreading across Africa, allowing lions and people to coexist.”

Leopards required a different approach. In South Africa, for example, Panthera has developed fauxleopard-skin capes to replace the real ones worn by the male members of the five-million-strong Zulu Shembe Church; the demand for skins for ceremonies was driving South Africa’s leopard population towards extinction.

And while long-term prevention is the aim, much of Panthera’s work ends up being what Hunter calls ‘triage’.

The Asiatic cheetah population in Iran, for example is down to less than 100 and, even worse than that, only 30 to 50 of these are adults. And so it is for tigers.

“Tiger conservation now is all about enforcement,” says Hunter. “It’s about keeping the species’ head above water.

We have to build tiger strongholds and fortresses until human economies shift, the pressure on tigers relaxes and dispersal becomes possible.”

If saving the world’s big cats seems like a massive task, Hunter gives no impression of being daunted.

“A lot of this is not rocket science. We know many of the answers. One of the reassuring things about what we do is that if you give them space and food, cats will do the rest. Cats quickly disappear from ecosystems under certain conditions, but they recover quickly, too.

We can win this.”

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Trip Report

WAKATOBI, INDONESIA

Š WALT STEARNS

The pristine reefs of the Wakatobi archipelago in Indonesia teem with colourful marine life, and a stay at the dive resort offers easy encounters in the underwater world, even if one particular tiny creature takes some finding

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A diver has a close encounter with a cuttlefish

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tirred by the sound of waves lapping on the beach outside and the excitement of diving on one of the world’s most biodiverse coral reefs, my first morning at Wakatobi Dive Resort started ridiculously early. As if I was at home, I put the kettle on and made a cup of tea, but the shrill chirping of sunbirds told me

I found a quiet spot at the end of the jetty, where the dawn chorus of insects was too far away to hear and so the only sound punctuating the silence was the occasional fish leaping for its life from the still waters.

I watched the sun’s rays energise the reef beneath me, as I had my first taster of the remarkable underwater realm I would experience over the next 10 days in this remote utopia.

The road to paradise isn’t always easy, but getting to the Wakatobi region of southeast Sulawesi in Indonesia was surprisingly so. I soon began to forget the 15 hour flight from London to Bali when a representative of the resort greeted me almost as soon as I disembarked the plane. He ushered me through passport control, baggage claim and customs, past the long-lines of holidaymakers, towards the check-in for a private plane transfer and the final leg of my journey.

For the next two and a half hours, I gazed out the window as we flew over countless coral atolls and pinnacles until we landed on the resort’s little private airstrip. Prior to its construction a decade ago, this trip had taken several days of arduous travel.

Times have changed but, importantly, the reefs haven’t, and I was able to have the same magical experience but with the promise of the maximum amount of time underwater during my 10-day adventure.

The pristine and remote Wakatobi archipelago stretches in a southeasterly direction from the tip of the Sulawesi mainland, starting at

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© DIDI LOTZE, STEVE MILLER, JAMES WATT

this wasn’t London.

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WAKATOBI, INDONESIA

Clockwise from top: bird’s-eye view of Wakatobi resort; a villa at Wakatobi; a master suit at the resort; a school of anthias on the reef; amberjacks surround a diver at Teluk Maya

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of reef fishes, corals and invertebrates you find. Wakatobi boasts mind-bogglingly high species richness, accommodating almost 2,000 fish and 450 reef-building corals. On one dive site here you could easily encounter more species of fish than are found in the entire Caribbean.

My dive guide (known as a Dive Experience Manager) for the trip was Guja, whose enthusiasm was tangible even when he was underwater; Italians do tend to talk with A dive boat anchored beside the reef their hands after all.

We immediately had one thing in common, which was a love of one of the smallest and most enigmatic of Wakatobi’s residents, the pygmy seahorse.

Wangi-Wangi, along to Kaledupa, Tomia and finally Binongko Now it might seem crazy to have a wish list of animals, every Island. The first two letters of each island create the acronym one of which is so diminutive it comfortably fits on a five after which the area and resort get their names.

If you were to follow my path from England to this tiny speck pence piece, but these are by no means common creatures.

Guja explained that finding three of the area’s four pygmy in the Banda Sea, you might wonder why I’d bypassed so many species was a realistic goal, but the fourth, Severn’s pygmy other coral reef nations on the way. The answer is simply that this is the world’s epicentre for marine biodiversity and there is seahorse, was a much more elusive quarry indeed. We would need a great deal of luck and some eagle eyes on our side. no more relaxed and luxurious way to experience it.

Our first dive was on the house reef, which is a coral wall that stretches for 4km in front of the resort. The reef can be WAKATOBI SITS AT THE HEART of the Coral accessed directly from shore or by ‘taxi boat’ whenever you Triangle, which is the name given to a roughly triangular area like, but for the sake of orientation and ease it is usually dived that includes the countries of Indonesia, Philippines, East Timor, Malaysia, Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands, from one of the large dive boats on the first day. Everything at Wakatobi is intended to make diving as relaxing as possible, that possess the planet’s greatest marine biodiversity. The so after the first dive your gear will always be set up and ready further you go from this coral triangle the fewer the number

© DIDI LOTZE, RICHARD SMITH

Pygmy seahorses Pygmy seahorses are a fascinating group of miniature seahorses. They measure just 1.4 – 2.7cm as adults, which equates to the diameter of a five to 50 pence piece, depending on the species. The group is relatively new to science, with six of the seven known species described in the first decade of the 21st century. Although they belong to the genus Hippocampus, along with all other seahorses, they have several adaptations for their small size, which distinguish them from their larger cousins.

Like all seahorses they share the reproductive quirk of male pregnancy. The female transfers her unfertilised eggs into the male’s brood pouch, where they are fertilised and spend the next two weeks developing before emerging into the water.

Four species of pygmy seahorse are found at Wakatobi, which is one of the best places in the world to find these diminutive fishes.

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Bargibant’s - The first pygmy seahorse to be named was an accidental discovery in 1969, when a museum curator in New Caledonia gathered a gorgonian seafan for the museum’s collection. Clinging to the seafan was a pair of these tiny pink, spotted seahorses.

Denise’s - For a long time, Denise’s pygmy was thought to be a juvenile Bargibant’s. In 2003 they were officially confirmed to be a distinct species. Both live exclusively on the surface of seafans, for which they have perfect camouflage.

One of the highlights of a diving holiday at Wakatobi is the chance to see the world’s smallest seahorses Pontoh’s - The predominantly white seahorse (left) often lives near clumps of certain kinds of algae, where its colour mimics dead patches. These fish were only scientifically described in 2008 and Wakatobi is certainly one of their global strongholds.

Severn’s - Also described in 2008, this little brown seahorse is the hardest to find due to its colouration and lack of habitat specificity. There has been very little research done on most of the species of pygmy seahorses, and so their population status remains unknown.

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Wakatobi boasts mindbogglingly high species richness. On a dive here you could encounter more species of fish than are found in the entire Caribbean

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continues almost to the surface, and so the snorkelling is outstanding. The sunlight fuels so much growth in the 10m below the surface, there would be easily enough to keep you occupied for many hours.

One aspect of Wakatobi Dive Resort that stands it apart from others in the area is the extremely high level of service, accommodation and food. My bungalow had a porch affording stunning views out across the flat tropical waters to the palm strewn islands in the distance. Cool breezes rolled in from the sea. The buffet-style international cuisine was delicious and served in an open-air dining room that overlooked the ocean. It’s very easy to forget how remote Wakatobi actually is when you have such fresh food served daily, delivered from Bali by plane.

IT WAS TWO DAYS BEFORE the end of the trip and although we’d seen three species of pygmy seahorse, there was no news of the Severn’s species that I so desperately wanted to see. Guja had asked the other guides to keep their eyes peeled for the 1.5cm long fish, but they’d had no success.

That evening Guja came running to my table at dinner with fantastic news: a pair of the miniature red, orange and brown seahorses had been spotted at a dive site called Kollo Soho.

The next day was our last dive day but we were able to schedule a trip to the site.

Armed with just a mental map painted by one of the other guides, Guja took me almost directly to the little outcrop, just wildlifeextra.com

© WALT STEARNS, WARREN BAVERSTOCK, RICHARD SMITH

to go, requiring minimal pre-dive adjustment. When the time came for the dive I simply stepped off the boat into the water where I joined Guja and the three other divers who would be my little buddy team for the trip.

On certain tides there can be quite strong currents on the house reef, but they just carry you along and their speed dictates the duration of your dive. A gentle current also brings out the polyps on the rainbow of soft corals that cover the wall, making for a real kaleidoscope of colour.

As I descended on that first dive, I passed turquoise vase sponges, bushes of crimson soft corals, verdant thickets of Halimeda algae, and a busy cluster of black and yellow sea squirts. The reef wasn’t a world of complementary colour palettes from the pages of a fashion magazine, it was an assault on the senses and there wasn’t a square inch of vacant space to be seen.

Pottering along the uneven wall full of overhangs and clefts, Guja pointed out many of the reef’s interesting inhabitants.

Several species of anemonefish, the classic Nemo of Disney fame, danced among the fronds of their tenticular homes as an inquisitive school of bigeye trevally, a kind of tuna, streamed past us. At one point, transfixed by the undulating colours and mutating skin textures of a cuttlefish, I sensed something overhead and saw a huge green turtle soar over me.

As we naturally moved into shallower water towards the end of the dive the life became ever more intense. At Wakatobi you can always stay in shallow water, since the coral growth

Trip Report

WAKATOBI, INDONESIA

Clockwise from above: diver with seafan at Lorenz’s Delight; convict blennies at Teluk Maya; marine slugs are akin to the butterflies of the sea; a dottyback weaves in and out of the rich reef growth

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TRIP ADVISER

COST RATING

SAMPLE PACKAGE TOUR: A sample 10-night resort adventure booked through Wakatobi’s guest relations staff costs approximately £3,556 per person, based on two-share in an Oceanfront bungalow.

The trip includes round trip flights between Bali and Wakatobi, eight full days of diving, all meals and snacks. Wakatobi also provides early payment and extended stay reductions.

GETTING THERE: Entry to Indonesia is via Denpasar, Bali. From Bali, you take a charter flight (arranged by Wakatobi guest relations staff) to the resort’s private airstrip. From there you are taken directly to the resort via a short boat ride. Round trip flights from UK to Denpasar, Bali average £800 with Singapore Airlines, £900 with Emirates, £950 with Cathay Pacific and £500 with Etihad Airways. above an orange sponge to the left of a purple seafan. There they were, the two tiny fish gripping onto hydroids with their tails and swaying in the current. If a miniscule seahorse doesn’t already sound cute enough, the pug-like snout and big puppy dog eyes certainly seal the deal. The impossibly small male was visibly pregnant with a great swollen belly and both animals hopped from one frond to another, feeding on invisible crustaceans. After watching the couple for as long as I could, I eventually surfaced with an unquenchable grin that lasted until well after my return to England.

With the last remaining wilderness being inexorably encroached upon by man, it becomes increasingly hard to find remote places on the globe to dive. There is mobile phone signal in even the most far-flung areas and daily flights to locations that only a decade ago were considered extraordinarily remote. It is reassuring that, at least for now, some places do remain pristine and unsullied. This remote corner of southeast Sulawesi is most definitely one such place.

Above: Severn’s pygmy seahorse are exceedingly hard to find on the busy reef Below: a view of the dive resort as seen from the water

VISA REQUIREMENTS FROM THE UK: Visitors must have a valid passport of six months past arrival date and at least one totally clear page for customs and immigration. There are USD $35 visa fees for most nationalities collected upon entry, and an international departure tax of 150,000 Indonesian rupiah payable on exit. Check permits and costs with your local Indonesian embassy or consulate before travel.

TIPS & WARNINGS: A high-factor sunscreen is essential, and insect repellent for use during any rainy periods. There are no malaria or dengue risks. If you’re planning a trip to other parts of Indonesia, please consult a good traveller’s health resource for the latest information on medicine recommendations.

The nearest recompression chamber is in Bali and requires a daytime sea-level flight. In case of a serious medical incident, the resort has access to a medical evacuation plane service in Bali and has worked out clearly defined procedures.

All rooms are fitted with three-square-pin sockets (UK standard) and the electricity is 220v 50 cycles. Wakatobi provides ample plug socket adapters and voltage converters (for 110v supplies) to lend to all guests. There is no need for guests to bring their own.

Just about any special dietary needs, restrictions, or requests can be met by the resort’s team of chefs with advance notice.

WHEN TO GO: Wakatobi is located in a remote archipelago and is a year-round, tropical destination with no marked seasons. Average air temperature is 30°C and water temperatures range between 26-28°C. Marine life encounters remain consistent throughout the year.

TOUR OPERATORS

ROBERT PARRINGTON, Wakatobi Guest Relations,

Tel: 020 8393 8511; www.wakatobi.com ORIGINAL DIVING,

Tel: 0845 130 6980; www.diveworldwide.com For more detailed information go to www.wakatobi.com 72 OCTOBER 2014

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© RICHARD SMITH

Tel: 020 7978 0505; www.originaldiving.com DIVE WORLDWIDE,

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Your guide to the world’s best child-friendly wildlife-watching breaks BEFORE YOU GO 76KNOW

© GETTY IMAGES

Wildlife TV producer and father of three nature mad children, Stephen Moss, offers his advice on organising a family holiday to see wildlife

HAUL 85 THEUK SHORTLIST 93THESHORTSHORTLIST Our selection of the best family-friendly wildlife experiences across the UK

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Our selection of the best family-friendly wildlife experiences across Europe

103 THELONGSHORTLIST HAUL 118COMBINATION TRIPS Our selection of the best family-friendly wildlife experiences beyond Europe

Destinations to combine a traditional family holiday with some unforgettable wildlife

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KNOW BEFORE YOU GO!

Have kids,

will travel As the father of three nature-mad children, author and wildlife television programme producer Stephen Moss has had plenty of practice organising family wildlifewatching holidays in both the UK and abroad. Here he offers some advice to anyone who wants to do the same usk was falling, and we were heading back to camp, when the message came over our driver’s radio. It was good news: the animal we most wanted to see was just half a mile ahead of us. But as we raced along the track, I wanted to tell my children not to get their hopes up – I knew from personal experience that this creature could vanish in an instant.

We pulled up alongside two other vehicles, their occupants staring intently into dense foliage. Then, my seven-yearold son George grabbed my arm and, agog with excitement, whispered the word “leopard”. At that very moment the big cat appeared, strolling across the track a few metres away, before melting away into the bush.

Seeing a leopard was just one of the many highlights of our family holiday to Sri Lanka. Blue whales, orcas, and over 150 different kinds of birds meant that George and his siblings Charlie and Daisy never had time to be bored. But you don’t need to venture to exotic destinations to give children amazing encounters with wildlife.

© ZEN SEKIZAWA/GETTY IMAGES

D

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CHOOSING YOUR DESTINATION Wherever you go – from a weekend in the UK to a fortnight far afield – there will be something to see. But unless you prepare, you run the risk of everyone ending up disappointed; and there are few more miserable holiday experiences than hauling bored children around a nature reserve where the wildlife resolutely refuses to show itself.

Which destination you choose will depend on many factors, including the age of your children, your budget and the time available. And remember, with the recent crackdown on taking children out of school during term-time, foreign holidays can be prohibitively expensive.

So, during the summer holidays at least, it makes sense to stay in the UK, as the long hours of daylight and (usually) fine weather mean there is plenty to see.

Scotland is an excellent choice, especially the offshore islands, where you can look for otters and eagles on Mull, or go on a whale-and-dolphin-watching trip around the Hebrides.

Devon and Cornwall, Norfolk, Dorset

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AS CHILDREN GROW OLDER THEY OFTEN DEVELOP A PASSION FOR WILDLIFE

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birds, at a very reasonable cost. Menorca is also a great place to see birds you won’t come across in the UK, and it’s ideal for small children, as we discovered when ours were pre-school age.

As children grow older, though, they often develop a passion for wildlife, and are ready for more varied encounters.

Florida is an ideal choice: offering a range of family activities in theme parks and coastal resorts, and some truly awesome wild creatures, including alligators, sharks and manatees.

For the trip of a lifetime, though, you are spoilt for choice.

Winter tourist destinations such as The Gambia, Goa, and Trinidad and Tobago provide an easy first experience of African, Asian and South American wildlife, and are also very safe. Even so, it always makes sense to take precautions against theft or accidents, and to ensure that you and your

children have all the necessary inoculations and, if necessary, antimalaria tablets.

This is even more essential if you are heading to more remote and challenging destinations, from the Australian outback to the South American rainforests, and the Arctic tundra to the African savannah. With the right planning and a sensible approach you can take children anywhere, and give them the experience of a lifetime, as my own family enjoyed on our two-week trip to Sri Lanka – which, incidentally, cost less than twice the price of a week’s high season package holiday to Greece.

TYPE OF HOLIDAY In my experience, an all-out wildlife experience doesn’t always suit everyone; it may be better to choose destinations where you can combine other holiday experiences with the wildlife. Day trips, for example excursions to offshore islands, are an ideal compromise, as is a visit to a nature reserve – though try to avoid hides, as children usually get bored and may annoy the other occupants.

“Don’t overestimate your children’s interest in nature,” says author and naturalist, Dominic Couzens, who is a

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© PETER CADE/GETTY IMAGES, JOHN WARBURTON-LEE/GETTY IMAGES, SHUTTERSTOCK

and the New Forest are also great for wildlife, especially if your children enjoy butterflies, whose numbers reach their peak in July and August.

At the start of the summer holidays, a visit to a seabird colony such as the Farne Islands off Northumberland is a magical experience – my children loved puffins so close they could almost touch them, while being dive-bombed

by Arctic terns.

If you are able to get away at other times of year – such as Easter or the May or October half terms – you have far more choice. For budding birders, a week’s package holiday to any Mediterranean resort in spring or autumn will provide exotic species such as bee-eaters, hoopoes and black-winged stilts, all of which are common on the Balearic Islands, the Algarve and the Spanish Costas.

Mallorca is especially productive.

Away from the tourist hotspots, in the quieter northwest of the island, there’s the perfect combination of beaches and

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father of two. “Make sure there’s something else for them to do – like a beach, theme park or swimming pool – to give them the option of taking a break from wildlife if they want.”

It’s always worth remembering that wildlife watching can also be combined with general sightseeing: many ancient monuments in places like Greece, Turkey and Egypt are also excellent places to watch birds.

Resorts like Agadir in Morocco, or Eilat in Israel, are ideal if your spouse or children are not quite as struck on nature as you are. A pre-breakfast walk provides the keen naturalist with their ‘wildlife fix’, leaving the rest of the day free for more conventional family holiday pursuits. Farther afield, in the wilds of Asia or Africa, a safari is always memorable – either a day trip inland

from a coastal resort, or something longer and more ambitious.

But children can also appreciate more wildlife-focused experiences, such as the Family Wildlife Week we enjoyed at the Aigas Field Centre in the Scottish Highlands last summer.

CHOOSING THE COMPANY If you do decide on a full-on wildlifewatching trip, it makes sense to go on a guided tour with a specialist company.

One problem is that these often cater for obsessive wildlife-watchers and/or a mainly older clientele, who may not welcome your noisy brood. So before you book, find out if the company is used to taking children on trips, and ask for references from other families.

“My advice would be to book with a

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO!

tour operator that offers wildlife holidays designed especially for families, with accommodation in family-friendly hotels or lodges, expert local guides and itineraries tailored to keep children engaged and entertained,” says father of three and Family Product Development Manager at The Family Adventure Company, Tim Winkworth. “It’s a good idea to combine a safari with visiting a sanctuary where children can get up close to the animals and learn about animal welfare and conservation.”

“Small group tours are fantastic for families as it offers children the chance to make new friends and allows adults to relax with other parents,” adds Olivia Lewis at Explore! “Privately organised itineraries, whereby customers can tailor their holiday to

Clockwise from left: family snorkelling; watching elephants on safari in Kenya; mother and child observing monkeys

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A mother and child get a close-up look at a seal

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO!

MOSS’S MOST WANTED Stephen recommends his top 10 family wildlifewatching destinations

1

North Norfolk: great bird reserves at Cley and Titchwell, and seals at Blakeney Point.

2

New Forest & Dorset: lovely mix of seaside, heath and forest with birds, butterflies and deer aplenty.

3

Farne Islands: amazing seabird colony with puffins, guillemots and Arctic terns so close you don’t need a telephoto lens.

4

Speyside & Cairngorms: the Scottish Highlands offers red squirrels in the woods, ospreys on the lochs and reindeer on the high tops.

suit their family’s needs, are also ideal.”

If you don’t fancy going through a specialist tour operator, an alternative is simply to hire a local guide: ours in Sri Lanka was not just a wildlife expert, but also a mine of fascinating historical and cultural information, and brilliant with my three ebullient children.

Many travellers are now also rightly concerned that their holiday is ecologically responsible, for example by putting money back into local wildlife conservation projects. Again, ask the question before you book.

© GETTY IMAGES

PREPARATION Before you go, check the climate, to ensure you take the right kind of clothing. Remember that wildlifewatching excursions often take place at dawn and dusk, when even in tropical climates it can be chilly, so pack a range of layers. Take a field guide to the wildlife in your destination, along with a ‘where to watch’ guide; you can also

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download trip reports from websites, which give you a real flavour of what to expect. Binoculars are essential, as is a camera with a zoom lens.

Try to get your children excited by showing them pictures or videos of what they might see, but remember that wildlife is by nature unpredictable, so don’t give them the impression that are going to see everything, or in quite such dazzling close-up. In the event this may not matter: my children still remember that glimpse of a leopard in the neardarkness, even though it wasn’t exactly a stunning close-up view.

“As with so many things to do with children, it’s your sales technique that’s important,” says RSPB President Miranda Krestovnikoff, mother of two.

“Remember to under-promise and over-supply. We have had a great deal of success doing short trips in the UK, especially boat excursions where there’s usually lots to see. Taking a wildlife ID chart and ticking off as many birds as possible keeps my fidgety five year old

5

Hebrides: these islands on Scotland’s west coast have a huge range of wildlife including white-tailed and golden eagles.

6 7

Mallorca: packed with migrating birds in spring and autumn.

Florida: incredible variety of birds and marine mammals, everywhere from Disneyworld to Sanibel Island and the Everglades.

8

The Gambia: just a few hours flight from the UK, this tiny West African country is the perfect introduction to the exotic wildlife of this amazing continent.

9

Trinidad & Tobago: this classic Caribbean destination offers hummingbirds, parrots and turtles – and much more!

10

Sri Lanka: Asia in miniature, with leopards, elephants and blue whales, and birds found nowhere else on the planet.

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KNOW BEFORE YOU GO!

happy for longer than I thought and bringing a camera for my enthusiastic daughter just adds an extra dimension.”

Before you go, don’t forget to check with your travel insurance provider that you are covered for the trip, and that expensive cameras and optics are all fully insured.

OUT IN THE FIELD

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© CHRIS CHEADLE/ALAMY

No wildlife experience, however dramatic and exciting, is worth risking the safety of you and your children. In the thrill of seeing a whale or a lion it’s easy to get carried away, and forget the basic rules of safety. So always be aware of what is happening around you, always listen to your guide, and never approach a wild creature in any way that puts you at risk.

Actually most wild animals will flee long before you get close enough for them to do you any harm; a far greater risk is the vehicle you are travelling in. Wildlife watching is often done from open-sided trucks, and it is easy to fall out or fall over, especially if the vehicle starts or stops unexpectedly. Most accidents occur when you have been out in the field for a day or two and are becoming blasé – so always be on your guard.

On the plus side, if you take sensible precautions, these vehicles offer an unrivalled opportunity to get close-up views of a range of wonderful wildlife – and to give you and your children memories they will, quite simply, never forget.

GET YOUR CHILDREN EXCITED BY SHOWING THEM PICTURES OR VIDEOS OF WHAT THEY MIGHT SEE

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Above: getting close to a stingray Here: family in a canoe follow a grey whale in Canada

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The

UK

Š ALAMY

Looking for inspiration for an unforgettable family wildlife-watching holiday? Here is our selection of 30 of the best, with options for all budgets and appeal for all ages WORDS BY MIKE UNWIN AND WILLIAM GRAY

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 6 Book now: Marine Discovery (www.marine discovery.co.uk)

Kids will love... sailing on a catamaran and being the first to shout out “Whale!”

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Spot basking sharks and barrel jellyfish off the coast of Cornwall Put down your shrimping net, take a break from bodyboarding. The sandcastles can wait and there’ll still be ice cream when you get back. The fact is, the seas around Cornwall promise one of the most exciting marine life safaris anywhere in the UK. Slipping out of Penzance harbour on a wildlife-watching boat trip, all eyes scour Mount’s Bay. Even this close to shore you might spot your first harbour porpoise. Blink and you’ll miss it – these stocky little cetaceans surface only briefly. Heading further out to sea, you may be lucky enough to encounter their bigger, more exuberant cousins. Common, bottlenose and Risso’s dolphins are all found in these waters, sometimes in large pods. If you see them, keep your fingers crossed that they’ll put on a show: breaching, spyhopping or – best of all – bowriding right beneath you. More sedate, but just as exciting, minke whales are commonly sighted – look out for a seabird feeding frenzy; it could well mean a whale is hunting fish, driving shoals to the surface. They’re not the only marine heavyweights attracted to the Cornish coast

during summer. See that large pale oval shape drifting near the surface? It could be a 20kg barrel jellyfish or a bizarre jellyfish-eating sunfish. These weird creatures can reach 1,000kg in weight! If there’s one big fish story that everyone wants to tell back in Penzance, however, it’s the one about the basking shark that swam right under the boat, all six sinuous metres of it…

DOGGETT/ALAMY, DAVID J SLATER/ALAMY, AGE FOTOSTOCK SPAIN/ALAMY

© NATURE PICTURE LUBRARY/ALAMY, SIMON KING/NATUREPL.COM, MATTHEW

Clockwise from top: a feeding basking shark at St Michael’s Mount, Cornwall; red deer on the Isle of Rum; red squirrel; osprey with trout; diver and jellyfish

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Stalk rutting red deers, otters and Rum ponies on the Isle of Rum, Scotland

An otter! Right there, cavorting with a mooring buoy in the harbour. And you haven’t even stepped off the ferry yet. That’s the thrill of Rum. The wildlife adventure can start almost before you arrive. Barely 100 square kilometers in area, this diamondshaped Hebridean isle is home to one of the world’s largest colonies of Manx shearwaters; golden and white-tailed eagles soar overhead, while eider ducks potter around the coast, cooing contentedly. But it’s bigger game you have in your sights.

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Come autumn and Rum’s 900 red deer are fired up for the annual rut. Led by one of the island’s rangers, you walk, single-file, into hills scattered with stout, long-maned Highland ponies.

Somewhere ahead a deep, guttural bellow signals a stag proclaiming his dominance over a harem of hinds.

Cresting a ridge, you spot him: all puffed up and arrogant, swaggering amongst his ladies. Then another stag arrives, stage left.

He’s slightly smaller, but fancies his chances.

Crouching down in the wind-combed grass, your pulse quickens as the two stags size each other up, then lock antlers…

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 8-10 (quiet, good walkers) Book now: Isle of Rum Community Ranger Service (www.isleofrum.com/ wildliferanger.php)

Kids will love... learning wildlife tracking skills from their ranger

Search for red squirrels, crested tits and ospreys at Loch Garten, Scotland

Stroll through the ancient Caledonian pine forest at this beautiful RSPB reserve near Aviemore and you may just hear the soft trilling of crested tits as they forage in the treetops. Pause a while and see if you can spot them, fussing through gnarled branches and dangling from pinecones. While you’re standing there, neck craning, keep an eye out for red squirrels – a fleeting glimpse, perhaps, of a pair chasing each other helter-skelter around a tree trunk. Even if you don’t spot these perky yet shy Caledonian natives, you should still try to experience the brooding majesty of these woods on foot. You can usually give both species an emphatic tick later on when visiting the reserve’s Osprey Centre. Feeders attract both tits and squirrels, but you’ll face something of a dilemma as to where to look in this high-tech hide. When ospreys returned to breed in Scotland in 1959, this is where they chose to settle, and the Loch Garten Osprey Centre provides captivating views of the regal raptors on the nest, as well as intimate close-ups thanks to live CCTV.

Kids will love...

the daily drama of the osprey chicks, from the moment they hatch to the start of their epic migration to North Africa

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Adventure rating: Minimum age: None Book now: RSPB Loch Garten (www.rspb.org.uk) OCTOBER 2014 87

Clockwise from left: Atlantic grey seal in north Pembrokeshire; boat trip off Caldey Island; a noisy herring gull disturbs a flock of guillemots

Kids will love... the whiff of Grassholm, outstaring a seal, meeting puffins

© SHOULTS/ALAMY, DAVID ANGEL/ALAMY, NIGEL MCCALL/ALAMY

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Take a seal, seabird and dolphin-spotting cruise around the islands of Pembrokeshire in Wales

Don’t be fooled – that’s not summer snow. Nor is the white topping on Grassholm Island the result of some gigantic pillow fight. White feathers, yes, but we’re not talking duck down here. What you see as you approach this magical island, 18km off the coast of Pembrokeshire, is gannets – 39,000 pairs of them, nesting so densely on this scrap of rock that they form a living cloak. Copious guano adds a splash of whitewash to the effect (you’ll smell it as you get nearer), while a constant airborne contingent of birds hangs over the island like white flakes of ash rising from a bonfire. Then there’s the sound: an incessant cackling, punctuated by the rattling of bills from courting pairs and

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harsher squawks as fights break out among neighbours. Grassholm requires a bit of a voyage, but that’s no bad thing – you can often spot porpoises, dolphins and even the occasional minke whale enroute. Seals haul out on rocky pedestals around the island, while the gannets themselves can be seen feeding out at sea, dropping like arrows on unsuspecting shoals of fish. Landings are not permitted on Grassholm, but just a short hop from Martin’s Haven on the mainland, Skomer is not only a doddle to reach, but allows you the chance to go ashore and mingle with nesting puffins. Dapper in their piebald plumage, around 6,000 pairs of these little ‘Pembrokeshire penguins’ take up

residence each summer in nesting burrows on the grassy slopes above Skomer’s sea cliffs. Sit quietly (well back from the cliff edge) and they’ll often waddle right past you, their colourful bills crammed with silver sandeels.

Train your binoculars on the cliff faces and you’ll see guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and fulmars squeezed onto the narrow ledges of huge, noisy seabird citadels.

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 5 (handheld/reined near cliff edges) Book now: Pembrokeshire Islands Boat Trips (www.pembrokeshire-islands.co.uk) OCTOBER 2014 89

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Watch the red kite feeding at Gigrin Farm and Bwlch Nant yr Arian in Ceredigion, Wales

Night falls quickly in the forest. Shadows deepen and an eerie silence hangs between the soaring trunks of the oaks and beeches.

Following your forest ranger into this twilight world, you’re conscious of every twig and leaf crackling beneath your feet. Tawny owls call and you freeze, sinking to your haunches next to a moss-covered log. There it is again: the female’s “twit”, answered by the male’s “too-woo”. They’re somewhere in the trees ahead. Time to try out your night-vision optics. Peering through the state-of-the-art scopes brings the forest into sharper relief, but the owls remain elusive. Instead, you catch a brief glimpse of bats circling a clearing on the hunt for moths. There’s also something moving on the forest floor. Probably a wood mouse, whispers the ranger, and you wonder whether the owls have seen it too. Later, you spot a lone roe deer, a ghostly shape tiptoeing though a stand of pines, but the highlight of your nocturnal tracking is the close encounter with a badger.

With night vision, you can clearly see the black-and-white-striped muzzle and the shimmy of silvery fur as it ambles across your path.

Kids will love...

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being able to see in the dark, the spooky forest, the eyes staring back at them

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 10 Book now: Forest Holidays (www.forestholidays.co.uk)

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BOULTON/ALAMY, MALCOM S FIRTH/ALAMY

Adventure rating: Minimum age: anyone with ability to sit quietly in a hide Book now: Gigrin Farm (www.gigrin. co.uk), Bwlch Nant yr Arian (www. forestry.gov.uk/bwlchnantyrarian)

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Enjoy encounters with bats and badgers in Cropton Forest, North Yorkshire Moors

© FLPA/ALAMY, VICTOR HARRIS/ALAMY, MARK

You’ve probably put peanuts out for blue tits and greenfinches, and may even have dabbled in mealworms to entice robins and blackbirds to your garden birdtable. But just imagine laying on a feast for dozens – sometimes hundreds – of red kites. It happens every day at these feeding stations, originally established to assist the recovery of a bird of prey pushed to the brink of extinction in the UK. Red kites are now thriving, and you can see them in all their fork-tailed, russet-coloured glory as they tumble and swoop on meaty scraps put out for them at Gigrin Farm and Bwlch Nant yr Arian. Sitting just metres away in a hide at Grigrin, or across the lake at Bwlch Nant yr Arian, you’ll be spellbound as the sky fills with their rakish silhouettes, twisting and spiraling, dive-bombing gangs of crows and engaging in airborne piracy as they rob each other of tidbits.

Clockwise from left: red kit diving for a tasty snack; brown long-eared bat; taking in the view on the North York Moors; visitors watching red kites at Gigrin Farm

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SHORT HAUL

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Ride the wild surf with whales and dolphins of the Azores This is whale-watching in the raw.

As you race back to port, under the imposing summit of Pico volcano, a pod of some 150 common dolphins joins you, leaping alongside and crisscrossing through the glassy water at your bows.

The younger members of your party stretch hands over the side, able almost to touch these exuberant cetaceans. Who knows what you’ll see tomorrow: pilot whales, perhaps, or a wandering humpback. Not for nothing are these remote islands celebrated as the whalewatching capital of the Atlantic.

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 4 Book now: Azores Choice (www.azoreschoice.com/activities/ family-adventures)

Kids will love... listening to the echolocation clicks of sperm whales calling from the deep, as your guide holds a hydrophone under the water.

© WILD WONDERS OF EUROPE/NATUREPL.COM, REINHARD DIRSCHERL/FLPA

There she blows! A towering column of white spray on the horizon is the sign you’ve been looking for. A vertical spout means one of the great baleen whales – probably a fin, or even a blue – that migrate through the Azores in spring and autumn. An angled spout is probably a sperm whale, a year-round resident of the Azores that lazes in pods at the surface and dives deep into the submarine canyons after giant squid.

The spout comes again, closer now. You hold on tight as your skipper turns the nose of your Zodiac and picks up speed, slapping over the waves towards your quarry. Soon you’re close enough to see the long, sleek back slipping back under.

Binoculars reveal the diagnostic blue-grey mottling and stubby little dorsal fin: it’s a blue whale, the largest animal in the history of our planet. All is calm for a while, as you idle in the swell, waiting.

Then, to a chorus of gasps and the click-beep of camera shutters, the huge back breaks the surface just 50m away. A close-range spout has you holding your nose as the fishy aroma drifts downwind.

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From left: a common dolphin beside a whale watching boat near Pico, Azores; a sperm whale in the waters off the Azores

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Embark on a Nordic wilderness adventure in northeastern Finland

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 5 Book now: The Great Projects (www.thegreatprojects.com)

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Track moose, beaver and wolves in the Bergslagen forests of Sweden

Could an animal really have done that? Looking more closely at the chiseled stumps of birch trees next to the lake, the teeth marks are unmistakable. There’s only one critter in these woods with gnashers capable of turning trees to woodchip: beavers! A wilderness break in the Bergslagen forests of Sweden offers a great opportunity for tracking down these industrious, semi-aquatic mammals.

As well as looking for signs on land, such as footprints and felled trees, you can take to the water, paddling canoes silently across lakes in search of beaver dams and lodges. It’s not uncommon to see the animals themselves. Look out for a branch or bundle of twigs moving mysteriously across the water surface – there’s probably a beaver attached to one end! Moose are also regularly spotted around the lake shores. In fact, they far outnumber humans in this part of Sweden. Accompanied by a local guide, you can track them through the dense forests, learning how to identify their hoof prints, droppings and other signs. If you’re extremely lucky, you’ll also come across the tracks or scats of wolves left by packs moving through these deep woods. Relaxing around the campfire back at your forest lodge, a cup of homemade lingonberry juice in hand, you might – just might – hear the spine-tingling sound of distant wolf howls drifting through the trees.

Kids will love...

sleeping out in Sweden’s wildwoods

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Adventure rating: Minimum age: 10 Book now: Nature Travels (www.naturetravels.co.uk)

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JOHNER IMAGES/ALAMY, CHRIS WALLACE/ALAMY

Taiga forest marches across the Russian border, cloaking the Kainuu region of northeastern Finland in a thick stubble of trees, pockmarked with lakes and mires.

Home to bear, wolf, lynx and wolverine, this is one of the truly wild places remaining in Europe. Imagine spending a night in a hide deep in the forest, waiting for a glimpse of one of these elusive carnivores. One moment you’re staring at the tangled the forest – fallen logs, tree stumps, a meshwork of branches – the next you’re hardly daring to breathe as an adult brown bear shuffles into view. You can explore Kainuu’s forests on foot, setting off on a traditional husky trek with guides. You’ll learn how to look after your huskies, search for bear tracks and take part in conservation work, erecting nesting boxes for birds and flying squirrels.

© RICHARD TADMAN/ALAMY, STAFFAN WIDSTRAND,

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Clockwise from left: great grey owl; European grey wolf; beaver and yearling; European brown bear

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© ROBERT HARDING WORLD IMAGERY/ALAMY

Enjoy a frosty encounter with polar bears, belugas and seabirds in Arctic Svalbard Footprints! Here? You crane over the side of the boat for a closer view. The huge paw prints wind away over the floating pancakes of sea ice, stretching towards the white horizon, where the snow-capped peaks rise to improbably pointed summits. Harp seals duck beneath the surface and little auks buzz pass your bows like bumble bees as your boat presses forward, creaking and crunching through the frozen ocean.

And there he is: a male polar bear, curled up and snoozing on an ice floe ahead, ivory yellow against the white and blue. A quick scramble down the gangplank and you’re all in the Zodiac, clutching cameras as you skim over the waves towards the great predator. Soon

he’s up and moving – great head raised and swinging from side to side as he picks up your scent on the Arctic breeze.

Without a moment’s hesitation he slips into the icy waters and swims across your bows, paws paddling beneath the surface like an outsized golden Labrador, before hauling out, shaking, and wandering off into the wilderness.

Few wildlife encounters beat meeting a polar bear in the wild. But on Svalbard the awe-inspiring moments just keep coming: humpback whales breaching in the bay; belugas puffing along the ice leads; walruses galumphing onto a shingle beach; and everywhere the blizzard of seabirds – terns, auks, kittiwakes, fulmars, phalaropes and

skuas. A hike over the tundra, meanwhile, brings reindeer and nesting barnacle geese – your guide never relaxing his vigil for bears. And the good news? With 24 hours of daylight in the Arctic summer, there’s never a reason to stop looking.

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 12?

Book now: K E Adventure (www. keadventure.com/trip/prp/polar-cruisethe-realm-of-the-polar-bear.html)

Kids will love...

staying up way beyond bedtime to see the midnight sun.

Tourists watch a polar bear mother and cub in Svalbard

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THE THE wildlife SHORTLIST SHORTLIST FAMILY FAMILY wildlife holidays holidays Short Haul Haul Short

© MEGAN WHITTAKER/ALAMY

Encounter breaching humpbacks and magnificent minke whales in Iceland There! Straight ahead, something black rolling through the waves, glinting in the sunshine like a pebble of polished basalt. The Arctic breeze smarts your eyes, but you press the binoculars closer to your face, desperate for a clearer view. There it is again: the unmistakable blue-grey curve of a whale’s back. This time, you also spot a fine column of haze as the leviathan surfaces – whale breath hanging above the surface like a translucent exclamation mark. But wait a minute – there are two spouts, not one! The guide aboard your whale-watching boat confirms the sighting: two humpback whales. You watch them surface twice more, then each whale, in turn, arches its back and dives deep, a great white-blotched fluke rising above the surface like a hand waving goodbye. Iceland is well known as the whale-watching capital of Europe. Sailing out of Reykjavik into Faxaflói Bay you often encounter both humpback and minke whales – but blues can also be found in these rich waters, along with white-beaked dolphins and orcas. Keep your eyes open, too, for prolific seabirds, including puffins, guillemots and eiders.

A humpback whale breaching off the coast near Reykajvik, Iceland

Kids will love... the big splash of a humpback breaching, spotting Iceland’s volcanoes on the horizon Adventure rating: Minimum age: 5 Book now: Icelandair (www.icelandair.co.uk)

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LONG HAUL

Clockwise from here: a tiger crossing a track in north India; tourists watching a baird’s tapir in Costa Rica; tourists get close to an orangutan in Indonesia

15 Kids will love... the view from the back of the elephant, searching for tiger prints in the sand

Take a safari drive with rhinos, tigers and Asian elephants in Nepal and India Kipling’s Jungle Book comes to life on an Indian safari. There’s even a chance for older children to ‘roam like Mowgli’ in Satpura National Park – one of the few places on the subcontinent where walking safaris are allowed. There’s no scampering about carefree and barefoot though – this is tiger territory and you’ll be led, single-file behind a guide and armed guard, pausing to study small wonders, like the prints of a sloth bear or the shed skin of a cobra.

You might glimpse langur monkeys foraging in the golden grasslands, or a giant Malabar squirrel streaking, chestnut, cinnamon and black, through

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the treetops. Generally, however, it’s boat safaris in Satpura that allow you to get close to the wildlife, drifting quietly past mugger crocodiles basking on sandbanks, or spoonbills tiptoeing along the water’s edge. For your best chance of spotting India’s stars in stripes, join a safari by jeep or elephant back in one of India’s premier tiger reserves, like Bandhavgarh, Corbett and Kanha. Listening out for the alarm calls of langur and spotted deer – your spies in the forest – will let you know when a tiger is on the prowl. Nepal combines well with a wildlife circuit in northern India. The sal forests and

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Meet the kings of the swingers and other jungle VIPs in Malaysian Borneo

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HEPWORTH/ALAMY, EPA/ALAMY

© ADITYA SINGH/ALAMY, ADRIAN

Adventure rating: Minimum age: Minimum age for walking safaris in Satpura is 12 Book now: Wild Planet Adventures (www.wildplanetadventures.com)

Long Haul

Discover all creatures great and small in the wilds of Costa Rica

Children, with their eagle eyes nearer ground level, are best placed to appreciate Costa Rica’s stunning biodiversity – whether miniscule strawberry poison-arrow frogs hopping across the forest floor or leaf-cutter ants ferrying their cargo up the length of a dangling liana. Each corner of the country brings its own attractions: in the highlands, hummingbirds zip like feathered jewels across the steaming volcano slopes: in the lowlands, sloths dangle like furry backpacks from branches festooned with epiphytes. Your wildlife adventuring comes in

grasslands of national parks like Bardiya are home to spectacular wildlife, ranging from Bengal tiger and Asian elephant to black buck and greater one-horned rhinoceros. As an added bonus you can stitch together the wildlife hotspots of India and Nepal with equally mesmerising cultural highlights such as the Taj Mahal, Varanasi and Kathmandu.

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many forms, from treading a swinging canopy walkway through Monteverde cloud forest to cruising along the jungle waterways of Tortuguero. And after all this comes the ocean, where iguanas laze on the rocks, turtles nest in the sand and you can take a dip in the warm waters of the Pacific.

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 5 years Book now: The Adventure Company (www. adventurecompany.co.uk/ tours/natural-magic)

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Down he comes, branches bending and long hairy arms reaching languorously for the next grip, until suddenly he’s standing before you in all his hairy, orange finery. Meeting the old man of the forest is the highlight of any trip to Sabah. But it’s far from the only one. With such weird jungle delights as proboscis monkeys, rhinoceros hornbills and carnivorous pitcher plants – not to mention stunning snorkeling – this is the perfect family tropical adventure.

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 5 years Book now: Intrepid Travel (www.intrepidtravel. com/malaysia/borneofamily-adventure-70735)

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Top: a close encounter with a giant tortoise Below: tourists watch two jaguar cubs fighting on a riverbank in the Pantanal

© INGA SPENCE/ALAMY, PAUL WILLIAMS/NATUREPL.COM

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Get up close to the tame giants and mini-dragons of the Galápagos Islands

Charles Darwin wasn’t exactly smitten by the wildlife of the Galápagos Islands when he visited the Pacific archipelago in 1835. He referred to the marine iguana as ‘a hideous-looking creature, of a dirty black colour, stupid, and sluggish in its movements’. What he failed to mention is that these amphibious lizards also resemble mini-dragons and snort water from their nostrils – two pretty cool attributes, which make them instant hits with any children lucky enough to visit Darwin’s Enchanted Isles on a modern-day expedition cruise. Alongside the iguanas there are male frigatebirds wildly shaking scarlet party-balloon throat pouches in courtship frenzies, blue-footed boobies performing hysterical highstepping, head-bowing courtship dances and giant tortoises – well, not doing much really, except just being huge, wrinkly and amazing. And all this is just there, happening fearlessly right at your feet. Or underwater. A snorkel in Galapágos waters will hold you just as rapt as anything on land. During an hour’s drift along the coast of Targus Bay on Isabela Island, you might easily count 20 or more green turtles, grazing on algae or drifting in watery space. Penguins zip along at the surface like overwound bath toys, flightless cormorants dive alongside you, their plumage wrapped in silver cocoons of trapped air, while sea lions steal the show – tugging playfully at your flippers or showing off in surging swim-pasts.

Kids will love... getting so close to the wildlife

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Spot jaguars on the water’s edge in the wetlands of the Brazilian Pantanal

It takes a moment before your eyes can distinguish the spots from the pattern of dappled light and foliage on the riverbank. But there he is: a male jaguar, lazing on his platform above the water’s edge, opening implacable amber eyes to stare at your intrusion, then flopping back down in the shade.

Magnificent.

Brazil’s vast Pantanal wetland is the place to see South America’s greatest predator. But your watery journey through the jungle backwaters will reveal a host of other excitements: caimans and capybaras crowding the riverbanks, howler monkeys clambering through the canopy and hyacinth macaws – the world’s biggest parrot – winging in garrulous pairs across the river. Get really lucky and a noisy family of giant river otters may even swim over to visit your boat.

On land the pageant of wildlife continues – anteaters, iguanas and countless birds among the highlights.

And you needn’t even leave the comfort of your fazenda to spot the wildlife: just lounge in a hammock while the cabybaras browse the lawn, or watch cardinals, kiskadees and cowbirds making free with your breakfast buffet.

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 8 Book now: Wild Planet Adventures (www.wildplanetadventures.com)

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 4-6 depending on ship Book now: Chameleon Worldwide (www.chameleonworldwide.co.uk) OCTOBER 2014 107

Grizzly bear catches salmon at Denali National Park

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THE SHORTLIST Long Haul

Embark on a wild Alaskan adventure among the bears of Denali National Park

This is one bus trip you’ll never forget… The best way to spot wildlife in Denali is on one of the official buses, riding a 137km gravel road through the national park’s six million acres of mountains, plains and braided river valleys. Your driver-guide knows all the best spots.

Stopping next to a stream half choked with willow thicket, you see your first caribou – a splendid male with a hefty rack of antlers. A careful scan of a rocky ridge reveals the white specks of Dall sheep, while the grassy slopes below are cratered with the burrows of ground squirrels. The rodents are a staple food for everything from eagles to wolves in Denali, but there’s one predator you’re especially keen to see. A couple of hours along the park road (the only way in and out of Denali) the bus lurches to a halt. A grizzly bear is feeding on a slope not more than 50m from where you’re sitting. Its thick russet coat does a kind of shimmy as the bear roots around for blueberries and other sweet treats growing in the tundra. It looks like a male – all 500kg of him. He gives the bus a cursory glance before resuming his foraging. By the time you reach the road’s end at the old gold-mining settlement of Kantishna, three more bears have been added to your tally, including a playful youngster chasing ducks in a small lake. And you’ve crowned it all with wonderful views of 6,194m Mt McKinley, its ice-fluted peaks towering above the Alaska Range. That’s the big thrill of a wildlife adventure in Alaska – even when the animals are playing hard to find, there’s never any shortage of spectacular scenery to feast your eyes on, whether you’re whale watching in the Kenai Fjords, searching for black bears in the Kachemak Wilderness or scanning Prince William Sound for sea otters.

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 8 Book now: Intrepid Travel (www. intrepidtravel.com/united-states/ alaskan-family-adventure-71478)

Kids will love...

trying to spot Denali’s ‘Big Five’: moose, caribou, Dall sheep, wolf and grizzly bear

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Clockwise from left: scuba diver gets close to a harlequin ghost pipefish in the Andaman Sea; tourists on safari watch hippos from a canoe in Botswana; lesser flamingoes and zebra drink from a lake; diver swims alongside a hawksbill turtle in Belize

Explore the reefs and rainforests of Thailand’s Andaman Islands

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Snorkel with turtles, rays and sharks off the coast of Belize The world’s second largest barrier reef can be found off the coast of Belize – a 300km-long chain of coral reefs, sand cays and mangrove islands that’s crying out for a snorkelling adventure. Top spots include hawksbill turtles, nurse sharks and blue-spotted eagle rays. On a boat trip, you might be lucky enough to glimpse dolphins, manatees or even a whale shark.

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 5 Book now: Intrepid Travel (www.intrepidtravel.com/belize/ caribbean-coast-family-adventure-70873) 110 OCTOBER 2014

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Charter a mokoro across the legendary waters of the Okavango Delta, Botswana

You have no idea where you’re going. But thankfully your guide knows these waterways rather better.

You lie back in the dugout mokoro – wobbling a little, as the kids get their turn with the pole. A malachite kingfisher dashes past.

You spy a painted reed frog crouched among the petals of a water lily. The resonant snort of hippos ahead is your guide’s cue to reclaim the pole. He steers you towards the bank, from where you trot back to camp.

The Okavango is one of Africa’s most disorientating wildernesses, its watery labyrinth changing with the floods of each new season. Back on dry land, you explore by 4WD, tracking lions to their kill in the shade, trundling through herds of buffalo and red lechwe antelope grazing the floodplains. On one red-letter morning you follow a pack of rare wild dogs as they chase impala through the mopane thickets.

But your Botswana safari doesn’t end in the Okavango. A short hop south takes you to the sandy grasslands and great saltpans of the Kalahari, where ostriches shimmer in the heat haze and oryx trek along the horizon. Then, heading north, you watch Africa’s greatest elephant herds line up along the Chobe waterfront and finally, hopping over the border into Zambia, your trip ends amid the exhilarating thunder and spray of Victoria Falls.

Kids will love...

taking the pole of a dugout mokoro and trying their hand at punting through the waterways of the Okavango.

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 11 years Book now: Exodus (www.exodustravels. com/botswana-holidays/family/ okavango-victoria-falls/fab) wildlifeextra.com

ALAMY, PAUL SPRINGETT A/ALAMY, IMAGEBROKER/ALAMY

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 12 Book now: Intrepid Travel (www.intrepidtravel.com/thailand/ family-sailing-thailand-phuket-74859)

© BLICKWINKEL/ALAMY, WATERFRAME/ALAMY, GALLO IMAGES/

Jungle meets ocean in an exuberant riot of emerald and azure in the islands of the Andaman Sea. Sailing on a catamaran between these exotic specks of land, you can seek out deserted coral sand beaches, flop overboard for a snorkel on reefs teeming with psychedelic butterflyfish, or venture ashore for walks through wildlife-rich mangroves and rainforests.

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Top: tourists among King Penguins on Salisbury Plain, South Georgia, Antarctica Below: a mountain gorilla in Beringei Beringei Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda

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Long Haul

Chill out with the seabirds, seals and penguins of Antarctica

Imagine gazing across a coastal plain peppered with 250,000 king penguins. Or crouching on a clifftop metres from a colony of 15,000 pairs of noisy blackbrowed albatrosses.

Imagine sailing into a polar wilderness of ice-clad peaks rearing above channels strewn with colossal, bluetinted icebergs. There are crabeater seals and Adélie penguins on the ice floes, humpback whales and orcas in the krill-rich seas and flocks of petrels and gulls skittering overhead.

Antarctica tops the wildlife wishlist of many travellers, but few are lucky enough to travel to this exhilarating

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THE SHORTLIST

destination. The ultimate family voyage links the Antarctic Peninsula with the Falkland Islands and South Georgia, cruising on a luxury expedition ship with a dedicated family program, where expert guides introduce children to the wonders of the Great White Continent through special excursions and activities. One day, you could be learning how to sketch penguins or chart the ship’s course, the next you could be riding in an inflatable zodiac on the trail of whales, or finding out how best to photograph a leopard seal. A spectacular living classroom, Antarctica

and the sub-Antarctic islands are also rich in history – from the battlefields of the Falklands to Shackleton’s brave exploits on South Georgia.

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 7 Book now: Abercrombie & Kent (http://www. abercrombiekent.co.uk/ antarctica/)

Kids will love... penguins galore – from comical rockhoppers to stately kings

Go ape with the endangered mountain gorillas of Uganda

There isn’t usually much action: the apes just laze around among the dripping greenery, occasionally breaking wind or reaching up a black furry arm to scratch an itch. But the experience is overwhelming – that intense sense of connection as the deep, intelligent eyes meet your own. Your heart flutters as the silverback raises his massive torso to beat his chest, before slumping back into the undergrowth. A mother barrels past within touching distance, clutching her infant protectively. As you creep away, you realise you’ve hardly taken a breath for the last hour.

The mountain gorillas of Bwindi may be the jewel in Uganda’s wildlife crown. But the further you travel, the more gems you discover – from the chimps of Kibale to the tree-climbing lions of Queen Elizabeth National Park and, if you’re lucky, a glimpse of the rare shoebill from your cruise among the hippos and crocs of the Kazinga Channel. And all of this comes wrapped in the warmth and hospitality that makes this lush nation at the heart of tropical Africa the perfection destination for a family safari.

Kids will love...

sitting still and not breathing as a wild mountain gorilla checks them out.

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Adventure rating: Minimum age: 14 years Book now: Explore (www.explore.co.uk/ holidays/uganda-safari-tour)

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Clockwise from above: Nile crocodile on the Victoria Nile; maternal leader of an elephant herd; common zebra herd; view of Victoria Falls

Kids will love... being a bush detective on a walking trail, working out what walked where and which poo belongs to whom.

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Embark on a waterfall and walking safari in South Luangwa, Zambia You creep up close and peer over the edge onto a rumbling, snorting sea of hippos. The Luangwa River has Africa’s highest concentration of these portly giants, and there’s no better way to watch them than on foot from the safety of a steep riverbank. Raising a finger to his lips, your guide points across the river to the far bank, where a line of elephants troops down to the water’s edge, trunks swinging, to slake their thirst.

Carmine bee-eaters flutter above your head, resplendent in crimson and turquoise.

South Luangwa is Africa’s top destination for walking safaris. Hitting the trail early, your

expert guide will track down the big beasts – keeping you at a safe distance – and reveal all the smaller secrets of the bush, from tracks and droppings to bird calls and medicinal plants.

Later in the day you may take to the road, winding around the meander loops and ebony groves in search of lions, giraffes and other game. Returning in the dark – after sundowners on the riverbank – your guide’s spotlight will pick out the eyes of nocturnal residents, such as porcupines and genets. Perhaps you might even come across a prowling leopard.

A short flight away lies the roar and spray of

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THE SHORTLIST Long Haul

Kayak with seals, porpoises and great whales off the coast of New Brunswick, Canada

With the water off Deer Island glassy calm, you can hear the puff of the porpoises as they surface beside your kayak and watch the scattered reflection of a bald eagle gliding low over the water to check you out. Harbour seals stick their heads up to watch you pass, while the yodelling call of a loon carries with eerie clarity across the bay.

A little further north, in Fundy National Park, the waves beat more strongly against the

rugged shoreline. You take to the sheltered waters of a lagoon – paddling beneath the moss-laden spruce trees that line the shore and hoping to surprise one of the shy forest creatures – a moose, perhaps, or even a black bear.

But there are times when we all need a bigger boat. So when you’re done with paddling, you take the ferry to Grand Manan Island and board a sailing ship. Cruising

Top: sea kayaking with porpoises Below: two lionesses beside the Zambezi River

the offshore waters for a morning, you meet the great whales – fins and humpbacks – that take up summer residence in this plankton-rich corner of the Atlantic. Their huge tail flukes offer a perfect sailor’s salute.

Adventure rating: Minimum age: 8 years Book now: Windows on the Wild (www. windowsonthewild.com/ canada/atlanticcanada/ seakayaking)

Kids will love...

watching friendly porpoises as they swim around and beneath their kayak in crystal-clear waters.

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Enjoy a Big 5 and snorkelling safari across South Africa and Swaziland

You stay stock-still, crouched behind a termite mound, as two tonnes of white rhino combs the breeze for your scent. Your guide points out the calf tucked behind the mother, explaining in whispers how this explains her jumpiness. You take your snaps and back away slowly.

Imfolozi Reserve lies at the heart of the Zulu Kingdom and is the place to track rhinos on foot. At nearby Kosi Bay you find the wildlife by taking to the water, paddling across silt waters where hippos laze in the shallows and crocs slip from the bank. From the beach at the lagoon mouth you don snorkel and mask to explore the glittering marine life of a pristine coral reef.

And then it’s onward – via the cultural delights of royal Swaziland – to the vast Kruger Park, where the rest of the Big Five awaits. Day one sees a buffalo herd rumble across the road and a bull elephant browsing outside camp. Day two finds you the lions that you heard roaring at dawn and, spotlit on a night drive, and an elusive leopard prowling a river bed.

Kids will love...

cheeky vervet monkeys, along with hornbills and glossy starlings, eyeing up your lunch at the Kruger Park picnic sites.

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Adventure rating: Minimum age: 11 years Book now: The Adventure Company (www.adventurecompany.co.uk/tours/kruger-beyond)

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© CHRIS MCLENNAN/ALAMY, ALAMY

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The Tanzania Specialists The Tanzania Specialists are experts in designing bespoke itineraries throughout Tanzania and Zanzibar. Offering ďŹ rst hand reviews, one-on-one service and on the ground back up, we are one of the last true specialist operators in the marketplace. We are fully ATOL bonded and, with over 10 years of expertise, we can match and beat any price on the market.

Contact us now for a tailored quote Website: www.thetanzaniaspecialists.net Telephone: 01525 840149 Email: info@theafricaspecialists.com

Perfect combinations You don’t need to forego wildlife watching in favour of the annual beach, amusement park, or city sightseeing holiday. Here are a few popular destinations that combine classic family fun with the bonus of enjoying the natural world while you’re there, writes Sheena Harvey

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BEYOND THE PARKS

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RHODES, GREECE August on the island of Rhodes is the time when thousands of Euplagia quadripunctaria rhodosensis butterflies, commonly known as Jersey Tigers, can be found sheltering from the heat among the trees in the Valley of the Butterflies in Petaloudes, between the airport and Rhodes Town.

Having fed as caterpillers on Mediterranean bushes such as arbutus, myrtle and rush, they emerge as butterflies at the end of May and move in great numbers to areas of high humidity as summer progresses. There are issues with disturbance by visitors to the valley as constant flying depletes the insect’s reserves, so the authorities now forbid making loud noises and clapping to force them to fly.

The cool forest with its pools and streams is also home to many woodland birds, frogs, toads and lizards.

MALAGA, SPAIN

Not far from the bars and souvenir shops of the Costa del Sol capital, the Montes de Malaga Natural Park offers plenty of wildlife. It has a big population of chameleons as well as ocellated and spine-footed lizards, and geckos. Mammals found in the area include wild boars, pole cats and beech martens and there is a healthy raptor population with booted and short-toed eagles, goshawks and buzzards, barn, tawny and eagle owls. These are present all year but during spring and autumn migration you can also see black kites and griffon vultures. There are lots of smaller birds, too, including quails, skylarks and crag martins.

If you travel a little further afield, to the Sierra de las Nieves natural park in the hills behind Marbella, you can find mountain goats, roe deer and wild sheep with impressive horns called muflon.

There is also a reasonable number of a type of mongoose called the meloncillo, and a number of royal owls.

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BEYOND THE PARKS

STAFFORDSHIRE, UK Less than 10 miles from the white-knuckle rides of the Alton Towers amusement park is the peace and tranquillity of Dovedale National Nature Reserve, part of the Derbyshire Peak District. The River Dove divides the limestone of eastern Derbyshire from the shales of Staffordshire and so different types of plants species grow on each side and attract a variety of wildlife. Orange-tips are among the range of butterflies and moths feed on the grasslands covering old scree slopes and the river itself hosts dippers, kingfishers, grey wagtails and herons. There’s even a chance of a goosander, and there are trout and water voles to be seen in the water. The ancient ravine woodlands are home to a good number of bird species, especially in summer, such as chiff chaffs, blackcaps, redstarts and spotted flycatchers.

PARIS, FRANCE

Within easy reach of Eurodisney and the centre of the French capital, towards the south-west, is the Espace Rambouillet wildlife reserve. This was a former royal hunting forest and is known for its wild boar, roe and fallow deer and birds of prey. High level walkways through the trees lead to platforms where you can find information about the flora and fauna, and there are presentations of 20 different species of raptors, including owls. Following the many trails in the forest is made easy for young children because you can hire sedate ponies for them to ride while you walk. There’s even a chance to see some of the primitive wild forerunners of our domestic cattle that roam the forest.

TENERIFE, CANARY ISLANDS

© AGE FOTOSTOCK SPAIN, RICHARD PITTAM, IMAGEBORKER, JOHN KELLERMAN/ALAMY

In the south of the island, not far from the beach loungers and sun-lotioned bodies of the holiday resorts of Los Cristianos and Playa de las Americas, there’s a feast of whale watching to be found, with resident pilot whales and passing migrants such as blue whales and orcas. Bottlenose dolphins are there, too, playing in the bow waves of the boats. Viewing the underwater world from a glass-bottomed boat is also possible, and you could get a glimpse of some of the six species of turtles that live around the coast.

Teide National Park in the centre of the island is good for a day trip as it contains the largest volcano in Spain, with its giant calderas, lunar landscapes and forests of Canary Island pines on the lower slopes. The volcanic soil promotes a wide diversity of plants, which in turn attract more than 700 types of insects and many reptiles, including endemic species such as Canary Island lizards, geckos and skinks.

The birdlife that thrives on these food sources include Egyptian vultures, lesser kestrels, red kites, laurel pigeons, Atlantic canaries and blue chaffinches.

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BEYOND THE PARKS

MAJORCA, BALEARIC ISLANDS Near the eastern coastal resort of Cala d’Or is the Mondrago Natural Park with its wetlands and clear turquoise waters. The park has a number of trails to follow and is a great place to see migratory birds that pass through in spring and autumn, including ospreys, turtledoves, cuckoos and partridges.

If you’re staying on the southwest of Majorca, at holiday areas such as Magaluf, you could take a boat trip to Sa Dragonera Nature Reserve, an island just off the coast which is famous for its thousands of wall lizards, called sargantana in Spanish. There are four recommended walks that enable you to take in the sights of the island that is also known for seabirds, falcons, scorpions and bats.

If you can tear yourself away from the surfing and the cream tea shops, there a wonderful wildlife experience to be had among the sand dunes and grasslands of Upton Towans Nature Reserve, not far off the A30 north of Hayle. Here you can see skylarks and adders, the rare silver-studded blue butterfly, which have distinctive light blue reflective scales on the underside of the wings. Glow worms can be found on warm nights and it is also a spotting off point for migratory birds. The flower-rich meadows are known for the presence of pyramidal orchids.

The nearby headland of St Ives is a great place to watch dolphins, seals, basking sharks and seabirds. The concrete platform to the right of the coastwatch station is a good vantage point as the tidal race brings shoals of small fish close to shore for the marine animals to feed on.

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ORLANDO, FLORIDA As a complete contrast to the bright lights and music of the Magic Kingdom at Disney World, you could head for the Disney Wilderness Preserve at nearby Kissimmee. This 11,500 acres of wetland bordering on the Florida Everglades is managed by the US Nature Conservancy. What was once mainly a cattle ranch has been purged of non-native, invasive plants and has been returned to the natural state described by Spanish missionaries in the 16th century.

The preserve is now home to more than 1,000 species of plants and animals, including the Florida scrub-jay, gopher tortoise, wood stork, sandhill crane, crested caracara, Sherman’s fox squirrel, bald eagle and red-cockaded woodpecker. The latter species had been declared extinct in the area but translocated birds were brought from north Florida and Georgia in 2007 and is now flourishing. It is a keystone species in the park, providing tree cavities that shelter squirrels, lizards, snakes and frogs, as well as other birds.

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© IMAGEBROKER, JANIE AIREY, WILLIAM LEAMAN/ALAMY

CORNWALL, UK

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IDENTIFY BIRDS AND MAMMALS

Richard James of the RSPB shares his tips on how to tell tricky species apart

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n the holiday season, when we venture away from our usual Here: sometimes there are unique familiar territories, our chances features that help identify an animal, like the vivid blue flash on to spot unusual wildlife is a jay’s wing. Sometimes, though, intensified. Whether you are taking you need to look further. the meander through the woods or Below left: a chough has a long, visiting a new country for the first thin red beak and red legs and can be found on cliffs. Below right: an time, there is always the chance of oystercatcher has a long, thick seeing something new. A glimpse beak and pink legs and can be of the unusual can add an extra found on the seashore frisson of excitement to a leafy stroll or a hike across coastal plains.

However, wildlife spotting on holiday can be a frustrating affair because identifying your unknown companion can be a challenge.

Even if you have an identification guide to hand, this still involves frantically flicking through to find what you have just seen. Cameras on mobile phones can be very useful but they do rely on an obliging animal posing for the photo – and for you to be skilled enough to catch its ‘best side’. stray from the norm, most of the animals you see and hear will Carrying a notepad and pencil can be a great way to capture stick to their preferred habitats. Discount those not normally what you see. This may seem old fashioned but it can be a very found in this habitat. If you are wildlife spotting in a national effective way of getting down the important details while they are fresh in your mind. You can then take your time to solve the park, or conservation area there may be a ranger on hand to quiz about the species you’ve seen. Some also have a board mystery without the panic of trying to identify or photograph where commonly sighted birds the animal before it and mammals are detailed disappears.

– a really helpful ID tool One of the most even if the text isn’t important things to in English. note down is your Jot down what surroundings. the animal was The type of doing including habitat is a very any specific important clue. behavioural traits.

Guestimate size Some animals – height and prefer feeding on the length are useful. ground, others in the Excluding the odd trees and some on the individual that may

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wing. Some make very distinctive noises Roe deer are small although these can be and delicate hard to write down phonetically. Using your phone sound to record this is very useful if at all possible.

The diversity of animals you pass will be different in summer compared to winter. A bird singing in December is very unlikely to be a nightingale but it could be if you are Red deer are much bigger and stockier walking through the same bit of wood in May or June. So it is important to eliminate the unseasonal species from your list of possibilities.

The appearance of the animal is ultimately what will help you fine tune your search, and that means not just its main colouring. Make a note of the shape of the animal in comparison to a species you may be familiar with. For birds, the beak shape and colour along with leg colour are useful pointers, too. Many species have similar plumages but any key features such as the jay’s blue wing flash will help. If a bird has no distinctive features, there are a few, then this can be a clue in itself. Similarly with mammals, are the ears and tail furry? Does it have a log tail, tufted ears or course hair on its underbelly. If you are artistic then sketch the animal.

Once you have noted down as much detail as possible, then comes the challenge of going through the books and websites to find out what it was. This can be daunting but finding the right guides will help. When looking for an identification guide, try to make sure it lists all of the characteristics mentioned above for each species.

For UK bird species, the RSPB’s Bird Identifier http:// www.rspb.org.uk/wildlife/birdidentifier/ allows you to enter the habitat and features of the bird to narrow down the possibilities. Alternatively, you can contact the experts at the RSPB Supporter Services department who have a great knowledge of wildlife and will happily try to help identify your mystery creature. wildlife@rspb.org.uk

Theknowledge

How to draw birds out in the field Sometimes nothing beats a quick sketch in a notebook, but how do you go about it and how do you get the correct scale?

Wildlife artist Steve Cale gives a few tips

■ Look for simple basic, straight shapes in the birds you watch, such as triangles and boxes.

■ Draw one box for the body and one for the head, then a simple line for the tail and the leading edge of the wing.

■ Join the head and body together and add simple legs.

■ Add the detail and take out unnecessary construction lines – use shading to give form.

■ Remember each species has different shapes and, above all, keep it simple.

Have you recognised them? Images 1, 2, 3, and 4 form a night jar; images 5, 6, 7 and 8 are a moorhen; while 9, 10, 11 and12 are a great tit.

Sketch work by Steve Cale

Write and tell us about your wildlife ID experiences by emailing editorial@wildtravelmag.com

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To see some of Steve’s finished artwork prints and cards go to www.steve-cale-artist.co.uk OCTOBER 2014 127

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Add a little extra knowhow to your wildlife watching adventures with the help of our expert mini-guides

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BUILDING A HEDGEHOG HOME You can create a des-res that Miss Tiggywinkle would be proud of following these tips from Fay Vass of the British Hedgehog Preservation Society

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edgehogs use nests all through the year. Being nocturnal, they will use them during the day to rest, as well as for raising their young and hibernating during the winter.

Any available timber can be used (old or new), the important thing is the better it is made, the longer it will last.

The box should be about 30cm high, 30cm deep and 40cm wide, with a tunnel secured in one corner of the widest side.

This entrance tunnel should be 13cm sq and could be constructed from wood, or old bricks placed on top of each other with a piece of slate as a roof (with another brick on top for stability).

The box needs to have

a removable lid, as you should give it a good clean out occasionally.

Once you have finished making it, you need to half-fill the chamber with straw and dry leaves for bedding.

The finished home can be covered with plastic sheeting, with soil and twigs placed on top, or just left as it is.

Place it in a quiet part of your garden, preferably against a bank, wall or fence.

Make sure the entrance to the house is kept clear and does not face north or north east.

Once you have an occupant, it is important to avoid all temptation to disturb it. For cleaning, the best time of year is late March (after hibernation and before baby season) or late October (after baby season but before hibernation).

To clean it use water and an organic Pyrethrum powder, suitable for caged birds, but don’t attempt to do it if a hedgehog is in

residence. To make sure one isn’t, put a small, light obstruction in the entrance to see whether it is pushed away overnight. If it stays in place it’s an indication that the hedgehog may no longer be in there (but take care just in case). Once the house is clean, fill it with fresh straw and leaves.

www.britishhedgehogs.org.uk

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A simple guide to pond dipping

© SHROPSHIRE STAR, BHPS, FROGLIFE

Pond dipping can uncover a whole new world, says Jenny Leon of Froglife Ponds are teeming with life all through the year, whether it’s caddis fly larvae that build their own little houses on their backs or inky black tadpoles wriggling around in the spring.

What you’ll need: ● Pond dipping nets (or improvise with a kitchen sieve) ● A white (or light) shallow container filled with pond water (ie, a washing up bowl) ● An ID sheet (there are lots of options, but a good choice is the Field Studies Council guide Freshwater Name Trail) ● Optional: White plastic spoons to lift the animals out, bug pots, magnifying glass, the free

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Dragon Finder App from www. froglife.org/dragonfinder/app/ What to do: 1. Find a natural pond and lay out your equipment. This needs to be somewhere that you can safely stand or kneel without having to lean out over the pond.

2. Sweep your net in a figure of eight near the bottom. Try to avoid hitting the bottom or you will get too much mud in your tray and won’t be able to see what you find.

3. Gently turn your net inside out over your container of water. You may need to wash it in the water to get all the creatures out and swimming around. Remove any

excess vegetation blocking your view and put it back in the pond.

4. Use an ID sheet to work out what creatures you have found.

5. Take a photo and/or make a drawing of what you have found and submit your sightings to the relevant group. For amphibian and reptile sightings you can use Froglife’s Dragon Finder App. For other animals you can submit casual sightings to your nearest ecological records centre. To find out where that is, type ‘ecological records centre’ and your county into your search engine.

6. Return the creatures to their home by gently washing the tray of water back into the pond.

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If you want your children to engage with wildlife then taking part in a bioblitz with them might just be the perfect way, says Jane Adams

Woodland management with the National Trust

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The McDonald family (mother Hillary and two sons Cameron,16, and Lewis, 13) talk about their conservation holiday in Northumberland

DO YOU BIOBLITZ? atching wildlife dramas develop on the TV makes many a viewer itch to get out and experience the natural world. A great way to get children off the sofa, and their curious minds closer to nature near you, is with a ‘bioblitz’. The phrase was coined by an American naturalist in 1996: ‘bio’ meaning ‘life’ and ‘blitz’ meaning ‘to do something quickly and intensively’ It’s a neat concept. A bioblitz is a 24-hour wildlife survey of a specific area or, to you and me, a chance to get into woods, grasslands and ponds and search for lots of plants and animals.

It’s a way to learn more about our wonderful wildlife and know your efforts will help to conserve it. Bioblitz participants range from people with only a love of nature – where we all start – to specialist experts.

Bioblitz events can create memories to last a lifetime as you watch your younger children in awe of specimen jars containing the tiniest of insects. They’re also great excuses for kids to get wet, dirty and stay up later than usual!

A bioblitz offers wonderful opportunities for older children to work with scientists, naturalists and fellow wildlife-loving families and learn about the world around them. They help us to increase our knowledge and encourage more people to take up wildlife recording, learning new identification skills along the way.

Some events see increasing numbers of young recorders keen to learn from the experts and get stuck in to help with wildlife surveys and species identification. The beauty of a bioblitz, however, is that when scarcer species sometimes elude the specialists, they’ll share themselves with someone who may not know a slow worm from a swallowtail! Experts are on hand, usually with identification keys, books and microscopes to help decipher findings collected during the day.

Activities might involve bird-spotting, bat walks, plant surveying, moth and small mammal trapping, pond-dipping, minibeast

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hunts, plus more! Everyone who takes part in a bioblitz has 24 hours to survey an area and find as many species as possible. Once the results are recorded they become valuable information for conservation organisations like The Wildlife Trusts.

Take your family on a journey of discovery. You might be surprised how many creatures there are, tucked away under blades of grass or in cracks in a wall.

How to get involved: • The British National History Consortium’s bioblitz website gathers together the majority of the organised Bioblitz events in the UK. www.bnhc.org.uk/bioblitz • The GardenBioBlitz is run by a small team of passionate volunteers. Over one 24-hour period this is your yearly chance to bioblitz your own garden, with help from an online community of wildlife experts. www.gardenbioblitz.org • The Wildlife Trusts offer plenty of opportunities to get involved.

Find events at www.wildlifetrusts.org A self-confessed social media geek, Jane Adams is passionate about wildlife photography and recording the wildlife in her local patch.

When she isn’t helping to organise the annual Garden Bioblitz she’s a marketing consultant for conservation charities in the UK, including The Wildlife Trusts.

Tell us about the experience The focus of the holiday was woodland conservation at Allen Banks and being outdoors.

We had a great mix of real work to do, along with fun activities such as pond dipping. As there were only four families taking part it was easy to get to know everyone and to enjoy the very relaxed atmosphere.

How was it?

Lewis: It was way better than I thought it would be. We could get involved in all the outdoor work, using saws and pickaxes, and we got to go wild swimming in the river.

Best bits?

Hilary: Not having to cook or wash up! Doing real work outdoors, friendliness of the other families and the rangers.

Cameron: Being able to talk to ‘real’ countryside rangers and find out about what their jobs are really like. The physical work such as sawing, using pickaxes and swimming in the river, and making new friends.

Lewis: Great food, wild swimming, hearing bats on the bat monitors, hot chocolate breaks, and being able to use all the equipment without someone looking over your shoulder all the time.

Worst bits?

Hillary: We really didn’t have any - it was all just brilliant.

What skills did you learn?

Lewis: How to light a fire, how to identify pond life, different bat sounds and types, how to safely use a saw, and identifying tree saplings.

For information on working holidays with the National Trust visit www.nationaltrust.org. uk/holidays/working-holidays

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Theknowledge

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Sarah Bhalerao, keen wildlife watcher and mother of a 14-year-old son and 11-year-old daughter, reviews some top books for young wildlife enthusiasts 5-8 years

Under 5s

THE LITTLE BOOK OF EXPLORATIONS Not essentially a wildlife guide, but a book full of ideas of how to introduce your little ones to the natural world. The activities are linked to the Early Years Foundation Stage in England making it especially suitable for nursery and teaching staff, as well as parents. It shows how activities such as ‘Explore a Wood’ can be extended with discussion areas and links to useful websites. £8.99 you pay £7.99

THE LITTLE BOOK OF MINIBEAST HOTELS Children are fascinated by small creatures. This book supports the current thinking on Eco schools, develops activities that relate in particular to boys’ needs, and adds a new spin to the popular but over-used topic of mini beasts. £8.99 you pay £7.99 9-12 years

RSPB CHILDREN’S GUIDE TO BIRD WATCHING Essentially a first ‘field guide’ to British birds covering the more common species. Describes essential kit, different habitats and what to look for during the ‘birder’s year’. A great starter book for any enthusiastic young birdwatcher. £6.99 you pay £5.99

THE GREAT BRITISH WILDLIFE HUNT A fantastic book to help the whole family find and enjoy wildlife. It covers over 160 species which are split into the habitats in which they can be found. Each species is pictured, described and given a score to put the fun into wildlife hunting. £10.99 you pay £7.99

USBORNE NATURETRAIL SEASHORE A beautifully illustrated guide to the habitats and species to be found along the seashore. This book is so much more than a field guide, though. It includes many activities to enjoy while exploring the wildlife of the seashore. £7.99 you pay £6.99

12+ years

CHRIS PACKHAM’S NATURE HANDBOOK A stunning book covering wildlife across the globe broken down into chapters by habitat. Full of facts and information, this book is a wonderful source of wildlife knowledge. The chapters on the weather and climate change are valuable additions. £14.99 you pay £11.99

WHAT’S THAT BUTTERFLY? One of a series of What’s That titles, this book is an ideal field guide for older children with clear illustrations of each species which have been annotated to show any distinguishing features. The species are grouped by colour and size, making comparisons easy. £6.99 you pay £5.99

NATURE ADVENTURES A richly illustrated book which is a pleasure for adults to share with children. It gives an excellent representation of the plants and animals which can be enjoyed in habitats such as the seashore, fields and hedgerow. A chapter on wildlife through the seasons helps show children how nature changes throughout the year. £7.99 you pay £6.99

THE USBORNE BIG SPOTTER’S STICKER BOOK Matching the stickers to the outlines makes this an ideal first book to help children recognise the differences in species. With interesting facts about the birds, plants and animals covered – there is also space for recording sightings. £9.99 you pay £7.99

THE WILD WEATHER BOOK This is a book full of outdoor activities for all age groups. If you’ve ever thought it wasn’t the weather for outdoor play, this book will change your mind and help you get the kids off the sofa and into the fresh air. Added bonus - most of the activities are free! £9.99 you pay £8.99

LET’S LOOK FOR BUTTERFLIES Pictures and stickers for 30 species of British butterflies from the ‘easy-tospot’ to the ‘difficult to find’.

Additional information includes usual foods, the life cycle of the butterfly, parts of a butterfly and useful facts. The robust nature of the pages make this an excellent book for the younger child and it includes a meadow in which your butterfly stickers can fly freely! £4.99

TO ORDER To purchase any of the featured books at our special discounted price, go to: www.wildsounds. com/wildtravel or call: 01263 741 825 and quote the relevant offer code above.

Offers valid until 31 December 2014 Free postage for all UK orders.

A percentage of every sale will be donated to our selected charity, World Land Trust (www.worldlandtrust.org)

OCTOBER 2014 131

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A look at the latest wildlife film to come to an iMax 3D cinema near you ʛʖʜXɀHɡ ʨLʃɓ

DREW FELLMAN

After a year of research and four difficult months of filming in Madagascar, producer Drew Fellman has created a beautiful 3D film about lemurs

Tell us about the film The film tells the story of how lemurs came to Madagascar and evolved into all the idiosyncratic species.

Lemurs were castaways. A small group of proto lemurs were accidently washed to sea on a small raft of vegetation about 60 million years ago. That raft landed on Madagascar and at the time there were no other mammals, birds or bats so the lemurs had the whole island to themselves and were able to spread out and evolve into hundreds of species. Meanwhile, back in Africa those lemur ancestors left behind were ultimately out competed by the rise of monkeys and smarter, more aggressive primates.

Lemurs would never have existed if this freak accident had not occurred.

Why lemurs?

Because they are amazing and not that many people know about them, or if they do they don’t know much. It is rare to be able to make a film about an animal that is so unknown, yet that everyone has heard of.

What were the challenges of making the film?

Madagascar has got to be one of the hardest places in the world to do anything, just because it is so remote and isolated, with very little infrastructure.

You are really on your own and the weather is rough and unpredictable; roads that were there one month would be gone the next.

We went to Madagascar for a month to suss it out and scout animals, and every day reinforced on the one hand how great this

movie could be, and on the other how impossible it would be and how likely we were to fail. After the month I thought there was a 50-50 chance of total failure.

What is your background?

I have no background in science, but ever since I was a little kid I have been enthralled by wildlife. I collected animal identification cards and have always been a secret biologist. I thought films were what I wanted to do but ended up in photojournalism.

Then in 2008 I got a chance to work on an underwater film as a diver with IMAX and I was able to spend three months living on dive boats in the Pacific. I thought this is the way to live!

Were you pleased with the finished film?

I am shocked at the resulting film. I am really serious when I say we thought we could cobble something together but the likely

scenario was we would have a lot of explaining to do. But it really worked out better than we had any right to expect and I am completely thrilled with it. As far as I am concerned the result is a dream scenario. It was very hard and we pulled it off, just barely.

I hope the film help raises awareness, as about 75 per cent of all lemur species are endangered or critically endangered and their possible extinction is very real. I think 17 species have already gone extinct and the list is long of ones that can follow. Now is the time to help turn that situation around in Madagascar, not 10 years, not 20 years from now. The most important thing is to build awareness right now and build up some momentum to preserve lemur habitats.

ISLAND OF LEMURS: MADAGASCAR Watch the preview at islandoflemurs.imax.com

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Theknowledge

Here is our selection of colourful and fabulous wildlife kit for every age

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1 THROUGH THE MAGNIFYING GLASS Help your child discover the close-up magic of garden bugs with the help of a magnifying glass. This chunky, brightly coloured, wooden magnifying glass is available in two different designs, both with a wrist strap, and are suitable for 3 years plus. Available in ladybird and snail design. ÂŁ10, www.notonthehighstreet.com/gardengear 2 HIGH DEFINITION Have you a budding biologist at home?

Then this fun colourful children’s talking microscope by GeoSafari will keep them entertained. Features include 5x magnification, a dial children can turn to listen to fun facts about what they are seeing on the 12 prepared slides of common insects, and a quiz so they can test their new found knowledge. £41.94, www.learning resources.co.uk

3 AS SNUG AS A BUG IN A RUG

Keep your child warm, dry, and clean during all outdoor activities with this very cute but very practical fleece-lined rain overall by Kozikidz.

Features include a detachable hood, reflectors for increased visibility and foot straps to hold wellies in place. ÂŁ49.80, hwww.cotswoldoutdoor.com

4 WELLIES PERFECT FOR BUZZING AROUND IN Cute, bright and practical, these bee wellies will definitely bring a smile to both children and their parents. Features include a toggle top to stop the water splashing in and a cotton lining for comfort, and they are available in infant sizes 7-12. ÂŁ9.95, www.easy-wellies.co.uk

WÉ›

1 GREAT BRITISH BIRD

BAKE OFF Get your child involved with watching birds by letting them make and prepare their food. The kit contains everything they’ll need, including a mixing bowl, spoon, bird food mix, edible flowers to decorate, animal-shaped cookie cutters and cupcake moulds, as well as a garden bird feeding and recording book. £14.99, www.nhbs.com

2 ANT ACTION Kids are always enthralled by ants going about their busy lives. This mini anthill habitat allows them to watch an ant colony burrow and forage in a realistic habitat at close quarters. ÂŁ6.99, www.bto.org/shop

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3 POND LIFE This Pond and Rockpool Explorer Kit from Nick Baker’s explorer range will give your child all the equipment they need to investigate the water world. There is a net for dipping as well as a small portable tank with a lid that doubles as a sorting tray, pipettes, spatulas and spoons, as well as the essential magnifying pocket lens, notebook and pencil. £13.99, www.nickbaker.tv 4 OPTICAL MAGIC With a three-way bug viewer, a double magnifying glass and a zoom-scope microscope, kids will be able to gaze into the secret world of insects to their heart’s content, and probably be able to teach parents a thing or two along the way. £30, www.nhmshop.co.uk

OCTOBER 2014 135

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ÉĄ ĘŁČźHĘŽLÉŞÉ—

WÉ› 1 A HELPING HAND These rugged gloves by Sealskinz are perfect for keeping little hands protected, warm and dry when they are outside. Highly durable, they are totally waterproof, breathable and windproof, and have a synthetic, textured palm for a great grip. ÂŁ12.99, shopping.rspb.org.uk

2 SCIENCE CLUB With a grown up yet fun and bright look, this dual microscope is bound to get children engaged with science. Features include LED lights to transform it from a dissecting microscope into a light microscope with 30x to 400x magnification. It is accompanied by a 22 page journal and a 40-piece microscope set. ÂŁ39.54, www.learningresources.co.uk

.LGĘ‚Ę˜Lɢ 3 SLEEPING BEAUTIES Keep young campers warm and happy with these bright and cheery sleeping bags from Kelty. Features include CloudLoft™ insulation and dual-sided locking zips that help control the temperature. Its mummy-style also has a flip-down top panel to make sure kids stay snug and wrapped up all night long, however much they wriggle around. ÂŁ70, www.kelty.com

4 BUTTERFLY MAGIC Let kids watch the metamorphosis miracle unfold right in front of them with these butterfly gardens. Five caterpillars (a live butterfly culture) will arrive in a clear plastic cup with all of the nutritious food they need. All the children have to do is place the cup in a safe place away from direct sunlight and watch as they emerge into in the mesh container before they let them outdoors. ÂŁ20, www.insectlore.co.uk

Ę?ÉƒĘ‘É 1 ARE YOU READY

FOR A CLOSE-UP? For teenagers wanting to get closer to the wildlife action, these binoculars with 8x42 magnification from the RSPB PuffinÂŽ range are brilliant value. They come supplied with a case and strap, as well as a handy bird identification guide. ÂŁ74.95, shopping.rspb.org.uk/

2 STAYING BATTY

Teenagers will love discovering the secret world of bats with the aid of this detector. It converts bats’ inaudible ultra-sonic sounds to frequencies they will be able to hear and pinpoint. It comes with a headphone socket and torch. £59.99, shopping.rspb.org.uk

136 OCTOBER 2014

3 LOOKING GOOD

This 3-in-1 jacket from North Face is not only good looking but very practical for even the most adventurous teenager.

The outer shell is waterproof and breathable, and inside there is a removable fleece. These two layers can either be worn separately or, for optimal weather protection, together. ÂŁ100, www.thenorthface.co.uk

4 STRIDING OUT Waterproof trousers are a must for any naturalist who plans to spend a lot of time outdoors, whatever the weather.

These Chandler Overtrousers from Regatta are made from a breathable soft polyester fabric with a liner for comfort and have taped seams and an elasticised waist. ÂŁ25, www.regatta.com

Here: gain a low perspective with a wide-angle lens, showing the subject up-close with lots of background detail.

Right: working without a tripod gives flexibility but offers less support at slower speeds. Increase ISO and shutter speed to avoid blurred images.

Below right: beauty can be found in all nature, and you don’t need to travel far to find it. Start small and work your way up.

3KRWɛ ZʝʁNʂKʝɞ

Catching the bug Wildlife photographer Oliver Smart remembers how he got hooked on taking pictures of nature and gives advice to young photographers, including 10-year-old Will Carter and 15-year-old Perry Rees

R

emember picking up your first camera? And what you were hoping to shoot?

In my case, an early memory was dropping my first camera in London’s Natural History Museum on a secondary school outing. Some things, I must say, never change. It hit the marble floor and split open, but thanks to one of the teachers it was quickly repaired with a bit of sticky tape.

My point to telling this is that it isn’t the disappointment of breaking my camera that I remember, irritating though it was, but the fact that I was doing something I enjoyed. I was 138 OCTOBER 2014

immersing myself in the natural world, both in the historical sense with the long extinct dinosaurs, and also in the wildlife currently roaming the planet. The shapes and sizes of the different animals captivated me and I couldn’t believe what life must have been like for wildlife millions of years ago. That passion and interest in the natural world has remained with me ever since.

Although this is perhaps my earliest memory of using a camera, the most important development in my wildlife career came after a visit to Titchwell RSPB reserve in Norfolk with my grandfather. I had just turned 21. Driving

rain and blowing gales did little to deter us and, in fact, we had one of the best bird watching days ever. It certainly has pride of place as the first entry in my notebook in June 1998.

I learnt that you must never be put off by the conditions because these often make for very interesting photographs.

Storms, snow, mist and wind can all help a photographer grasp something out of the ordinary.

I know you will have your own personal stories of how you become hooked and they are probably very similar to mine.

You probably learnt how to take pictures without even having a camera in your wildlifeextra.com

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Theknowledge

WILD OCTOBER Other species to photograph around the UK this month – especially for children RED DEER For sheer excitement, size and drama you can’t do better than a deer rut in the autumn. Red deer in particular offer a photographer a wealth of image options. Shoot at sunrise (with and into the sun) for more interesting images. Time your visit with a cold snap to capture the animals when their breath is visible.

Locations: Richmond Park, London; Bradgate Park, Leicestershire

hands. You may have spent ages sitting watching a spider spinning a web, a bee feeding from a flower or perhaps a hedgehog snuffling around your garden, composing the scene in your mind. These observations are part of understanding nature, so all you need to do is to document it in some way; make a physical recording of the event.

My best advice is to start small and build up. Modern technology is so advanced compared to my earliest camera that even a Smartphone would outperform it several times over these days. Being passionate about your subjects and understanding the behaviours you observe will help you capture that moment in time. Soon you will want to improve on the limitations of the Smartphone and progress to a point-and-shoot camera or perhaps an entry-level DSLR (Digital Single Lens wildlifeextra.com

Reflex). Either will dramatically improve your images but they will also throw up other challenges, too. The equipment gets heavier and more expensive, you need more tools to do the job, and there are a lot more buttons to play with! But this is all part of the fun, and the learning never ceases.

Persevere and learn the camera inside and out. Your knowledge of your tools will reward your quick thinking when you are in the heat of the moment.

Imagine yourself watching a subject for some time, waiting for it to jump, dive or fly, only to find you had the camera turned off, the memory card not formatted from the previous trip, or the lens cap still on! It happens to all of us from time to time but planning and preparation are 9/10ths of the job.

Pressing the shutter button at the right moment is the easy part… isn’t it?

SEALS Visiting a seal colony in winter brings mixed emotions. The delight at the sight of large mammals that are easy to get close to, mingles with the dread of a cold, exposed coastline, and the realisation that the best shots are taken at eye-level! Yes, that means lying down in wet sand and becoming one with the colony. The rewards are well worth your efforts.

Locations: Blakeney NNR, Norfolk; Donna Nook, Lincolnshire GEESE Millions of geese arrive on our shores in winter each year and are great subjects to photograph early morning or late evening. It’s not about the close-up shots but more about the masses. This will benefit younger photographers with shorter telephoto lenses and wide angles.

Locations: Caerlaverock WWT, Dumfries & Galloway; Snettisham RSPB reserve, Norfolk

OCTOBER 2014 139

Left: big is not always best, try composing your images with the main subject off centre.

Below right: if you don’t have a stable support use a natural prop to rest your camera lens, a tree will also help conceal you from your subject.

:KDɢ ʂKʝʅOɍ ȩɏ ʖɚ \ʝʦɠ ʘLɢ EDɒ" Oliver’s recommendations for basic kit for aspiring young photographers

TOP TIPS TO IMPROVE YOUR IMAGES Learn about your subject My most important piece of advice is to thoroughly understand what you want to photograph. There are times when luck accounts for an image but knowing where, when and how something is going to behave will give you a much better chance of getting a pleasing result.

The best wildlife photographers are the ones who understand their subject intimately before they try and shoot it.

Perhaps 90 per cent of the success comes in the planning and preparation and 10 per cent in the actual shooting.

the next shoot. You will be amazed how quickly you improve.

Join a club One of the best ways to get feedback and share your images with fellow enthusiasts is to join a club. Here you will get a critique of your work and be amongst like-minded people. If you’re lucky there will be one at your school or college. You’ll also benefit from a wealth of knowledge of different subject matter and learn about the best wildlife near you.

Focus lock

Enter competitions

Avoid composing the subject bang in the centre by learning to control your focus.

Take a focus of the subject, lock it and recompose or maybe shoot in manual mode. This may be quicker than selecting a new focus point each time.

This will open up to you many more compositional options and will result in more balanced and interesting images.

I came from a wildlife enthusiast’s background so I did not have the benefit of entering competitions when I was younger. If you look now at the Wildlife Photographer of the Year and especially the Young Persons categories you can see how high the standard is and how much effort goes into taking the images.

There are so many competitions available, from your local Wildlife Trust to a number of photography and wildlife magazines. Plenty of chances to get your work recognised.

Share your images Improving is two-fold: critiquing yourself and striving for better next time, and asking your friends, family or, more importantly, other photographers what they think of your work. Get their honest opinions and do not get disheartened by any negative criticism: use it to get better. Improving derives from evaluating your work, accepting critical elements and resolving them for 140 OCTOBER 2014

ANY CAMERA The camera is simply a recording tool for your hard work, planning, patience and execution.

Yes, there is much to be said about the top cameras but the emphasis is on technique, learning about your subject and being in the right place at the right time. A built-in flash is useful for additional light or when handholding.

ANY LENS You do not need long, expensive telephoto lenses to get good images. Your field craft and skill as a naturalist will be far more rewarding.

Experiment with the equipment you have or what you can borrow, and upgrade as you improve. Think about how you wish to shoot your subjects. So many images today are of standard portraits and many photographers forget about the surrounding habitat. Practice with the perspective and angle of view to your subject and include some background detail.

CHEAP ALTERNATIVES When I took up photography, I certainly did not have the money or resources to jump straight into it with expensive equipment, so I resorted partly to the second-hand market. This is a more affordable alternative and will allow you to build your kit bag quickly.

BASIC TOOLS Useful accessories for your kit would certainly include a tripod or beanbag for resting a camera. A cable release is great for keeping the camera steady and an angle finder helps with when working low to the ground.

CLOTHING Remember you’ll often be outdoors for long sessions, so wrap up warm or put on sunscreen.

Wear muted colours so you don’t spook wildlife.

Use a mat to lie on, too. An uncomfortable photographer is an unhappy one!

Have fun Most of all, enjoy what you are doing. If you do not like early mornings, late evenings, cold or wet conditions, or the long periods of nothing happening then start another project as you will quickly get bored and lose interest.

■ Share your wildlife photos at www.flickr.com/groups/wild_travel

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Don’t miss our essential guide to Australia’s weird and wonderful wildlife PLUS

Ultimate birdwatching in the UK and around the world ● A true spectacle of geese and waders in Norfolk ● The amazing marine wildlife of Baja California ● Asiatic lions in India ● Getting the best photographs of grey seals PRE-ORDER YOUR COPY TODAY TO SAVE £1 off the cover price and get free delivery in the UK! 1. Go to www.buyamag.co.uk/WT 2. Click to order the November 2014 issue 3. Enter the discount code XD40

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H!

Confessions of a wildlife traveller...

Child’s play They may have a short attention span and a disregard for quiet observation, but children can teach us a lot, writes Mike Unwin

“B

146 OCTOBER 2014

The last warthog splashes away with tail held aloft

children is so refreshing. Yes, their attention spans may be low and noise levels high. But their untutored take on the natural world can teach us to look beyond our tick-list of must-sees, and respond more spontaneously to what’s around us.

On holiday on the Scottish west coast earlier this summer I turned down a hike to the headland (possible eagles, dolphins, otters) in order to help my young niece and nephew search the beach for cowrie shells. Reluctantly I got down on my knees to comb through the tideline debris. So engrossed did I become that an hour later I’d moved no more than 10 metres. Meanwhile, as we sorted the shell shards by shape and colour – earning extra points for crab claws and dead starfish – a pair of ringed plovers had dashed around us, porpoises puffed across the bay and a white-tailed eagle circled overhead. And though nobody saw an otter, we – on our hands and knees – found the evidence: five-toed tracks by the burn.

Don’t get me wrong: some wildlife watching activities are better in adult company – and cagediving with great whites isn’t for six-year-olds. But you might just find that having kids on board reopens your eyes to what grabbed you in the first place.

And the answer to that warthog conundrum? Well, you should never trust tall tails.

“Their untutored take on the natural world can teach us to look beyond our tick-list of must-sees, and respond more spontaneously” wildlifeextra.com

© FLPA

ut daddy, what about the one at the back?” I hush my daughter. Four-year-olds on game drives are meant to be seen and not heard – preferably not even seen. But she’s not having it, and persists, more loudly: ‘Why does the last one stick its tail up?’

“Ha, ha! Good question,” booms our khaki-clad safari guide, with a somewhat forced grin. “Now,” he says to the other guests, “if you look to your left, that’s a lilac-breasted roller perched on the tree stump.”

This was a few years ago in South Africa’s Kruger Park. What had piqued my daughter’s curiosity was a group of warthogs that galloped away from our vehicle with tails held aloft like radio aerials. And, more importantly, our guide’s explanation: namely, that this is a visual communication strategy, enabling the hogs to stick together in long grass.

Yes, kids do indeed Say The Funniest Things. But it is, surely, a reasonable question: if the point of raising your tail is to put up a marker for those behind you, then why do it when you’re at the back? I doubt whether an adult would ever ask that question. And, of course, we would never question a guide.

My point is that children are not cowed by protocol.

If they don’t understand something – or don’t like it – they say so. We grown-up wildlife watchers have a more predictable agenda. Before even setting out we have divvied up the natural world into what is or is not worthy of our attention. A safari drive, for instance, is all about the Big Five, so a lion is interesting but an impala is not – unless it’s being pursued by a lion.

Not so for children. If something interests them, it interests them. If it bores them, it bores them. The back end of a sleeping lion beneath a tree is, frankly, dull. But, back in camp, those ant-lion larvae lurking at the bottom of their conical pits are riveting – especially if you can entice them to the surface by rolling a few grains of sand over the rim. Riveting, too, are the guineafowl poking through elephant poo (HUGE!) for seeds and the agama lizard nodding its blue head as it plays hide-and-seek round a tree trunk.

And this is why, for me, watching wildlife with

WILD TRAVEL – October 2014 Scottish wildcat

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Luke Hunter interview

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Wakatobi diving

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Family wildlife holidays

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