MARKET RESEARCH Georgia, Orion, Rene, Rami & Maxime
FROM CONCEPT TO SNEAKER COLLECTION Following research was conducted for a London based startup TFW, that proposed a solution to toxic air pollution by integrating an air ďŹ ltration system in footwear. This with the idea that many daily micro contributions can make the difference. We as consultants conducted research and translated their idea into a footwear collection.
MARKET RESEARCH In order to be able to penetrate the market, we, as the future of walking have to evaluate appropriate factors in order to gain knowledge regarding potential consumers and their habits. From this information, we will then be able to define and segment an accessible target market for which we will be able to introduce our brand/sneaker line. These are a few of the elements that we will have to look at when conducting the market research: Footwear industry trends
➢
Consumer Trends
➢
Competitor analysis
➢ ➢ ➢ ➢
Target Market Distribution Strategy
Communication Strategy
SECONDARY REASEARCH
FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY INSIGHTS
5
FOOTWEAR TRENDS FUNCTION AND COMFORT THE STANDARD Consumers are placing more value on following features and beneďŹ ts from tailoring to comfort, versatility and accessibility
FASHION REGAIN SHARE IN FOOTWEAR Fashion footwear brands will take back some share, by incorporating comfort and style elements that drove consumers to love athleisure
SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL CONSCIOUSNESS 41% of consumers surveyed indicated eco friendly/sustainable materials are of importance when considering buying footwear.
6
KATHIE SMITH According to Kathie Smith, director of retail analysis at EDITED, women still own heels but prefer to dress for comfort and function, made for the day-to-day hustle. “Even after we get to work, we’re trying not to sit at our desks all day. We stand. We take the stairs. We walk to lunch. We’re constantly counting our steps, so it makes sense to wear comfortable footwear and clothing,”
ALEXIS DESALVA According to Alexis Desalva, flat shoes have an advantage over heels as they go with almost every outfit. “People are multitasking more these days. They’re going from yoga class to work, then from happy hour to pick up their kids, and they don’t want to change into four different outfits. Flat shoes have become a staple in multipurpose dressing.”
7
TREND: “THE WOKE” One the McKinsey’s State of Fashion 2019 main focuses is “the woke”, that highlights the growing importance of millennials and Gen Z towards sustainability and inclusivity as consumers nowadays take personal values and beliefs into account when shopping. Consumers expects companies to be open (transparent) about their supply chain. Half of the consumers in today’s world research for background information before purchasing.
8
66%
OF MILLENNIALS WILL SPEND ON SUSTAINABLE BRANDS
90%
OF MILLENNIALS BELIEVE THEY ARE THEY GENERATION OF SUSTAINABILITY
MILLENNIAL’S SUSTAINABLE MINDSET According the State of Fashion by BoF & McKinsey, 66% of global millennials are willing to spend more on brands that are sustainable LIM college stated that 90% of the millennials believe they are the generation who will stimulate the creation of sustainable products by convincing businesses to change. The same percentage is even willing to boycott a fashion brand that is not sustainable. Besides, the Oeko-Tex Association believes millennials are more aware of the fashion industry’s environmental and social shortcomings than older generations. Research conducted by them showed that 60% of the participants are interested in sustainable clothing.
MILLENNIAL SPENDING POTENTIAL 9
According to research published by LinkedIn about Affluent Millennials, this generational subset spends a staggering $2 trillion every year. With their annual income expected to reach $22 trillion as a generation by 2035, Millennials are well surpassing Baby Boomers, who are predicted bring a generational annual income of $6 trillion at that point. In addition to the wealth are building on their own, in the coming years they will also be on the receiving end of a massive generational shift of approximately $59 trillion in personal wealth.
Source, source, source.
Some of the best proof of this gigantic shift towards a majority of Millennials with spending power is the reaction of the tech industry, which is not only largely run by millennials themselves, but has flexed and changed to adapt to the preferences and needs of this generation. A monumental shift in an industry that is on track to reach $5 trillion in 2019, plus numerous business and financial reports with evidence to support, cannot be ignored when choosing the target customer for AERES. Not to mention that the TFW sneaker filter technology means that it is a fashion / tech hybrid and therefore has strong potential for this market.
10
MILLENNIALS CARE ABOUT SUSTAINABLE FASHION. BUT WHY DON’T THEY BUY?
11 RACHEL ARTHUR
“CONSUMERS FIRST INTEREST IS NOT UNDERSTANDING THE SUPPLY CHAIN. AT THE END OF THE DAY THEY JUST WANT TO HAVE A NICE PRODUCT.” Millennials pretty much rank every key purchasing decision over sustainability. Where the ease of the purchase, price/value, uniqueness and brand name are more influential than the term sustainability when making their decisions.
LILY COLE
“I’VE FOUNDED AND WORKED WITH COMPANIES THAT HAVE PUT SUSTAINABILITY AT THEIR CORE AND IN EVERY INSTANCE, IT’S BEEN A CONFLICT AND BATTLE OF HOW TO COMMUNICATE, IF TO COMMUNICATE” “WE HAVE FOUND THAT THE MORE DATA YOU GIVE? THE MORE YOU ALIENATE AND OVERWHELM”
12
YOUNG SHOPPERS, WHATEVER THEIR SPENDING LEVELS, ARE NOT JUST BUYING PRODUCTS, “THEY’RE BUYING INTO A LIFESTYLE OR COMMUNITY” Highsnobiety
THE SNEAKER BOOM IS “REALLY ABOUT A LOOK, A LIFESTYLE, TODAY MORE THAN ANYTHING” Matt Powell - Vice President and Senior Industry Analyst at the NPD Group
PRIMARY
REASEARCH
SURVEY DISCUSSION
STATISTICS ➔
Nearly 70% of people surveyed had never searched for sustainable sneakers
➔
Out of those who had searched for them 48% of people thought that the sustainable shoe options on the market were not stylish
➔
61.1% use sneakers for daily leisure use
➔
19.4% use sneakers to exercise in
➔
74.3% of people surveyed own sneakers from Nike
➔
65.7% own sneakers from Adidas
➔
66.7% of people went for trends when buying sneakers
➔
72.2% said confort was important
➔
Only 16.7% said sustainability was important
➔
77.1% of people prefer to buy softer coloured sneakers than bold colour sneakers
➔
White, navy, khaki and grey all scored more highly than colours red, yellow and pink
➔
62.9% of people surveyed buy from specialist label stores, 31.4% from department stores, and 22.9% buy online
➔
85.7% would consider buying online
CONCLUSIONS ➔
There is a gap in the market for sustainable sneakers with a more fashionable/stylish design
➔
Focus on design aspect instead of letting the sustainability and technological aspects be the only selling points for the shoe
➔
Ensure design does not impact on comfort factor
➔
Go for softer more neutral colours
➔
Ensure to have both casual options for people who wear their shoes for day to day activities and options for those who use them for sport
➔
Be present in department stores, online and brick and mortar stores
“ When i buy shoes, my main problem is always finding the right fit” “A neutral color to match multiple outfits & styles is a plus”
“I regret choosing style/design over comfort. Even tho they looked different, they didn’t offer the same support”
“Sneakers often look boorish at my feet and make them look bigger” “I’ve searched for sustainable shoes but they are were not fashionable so I didn’t buy them”
“When I shop for sneakers I seek for comfort, even though it happens often that they give me blisters”
“I want sneakers in a modern shape and basic colours, but which are elegant enough that I can wear them to a meeting at work”
“Sneakers often loose easily their shape and support” RESEARCH JOURNEY
SNEAKER CONSUMER WANTS & PAIN POINTS
“I don’t wear sneakers to work but the ones I currently own are quite classic colours e.g. my white Stan Smiths because everything goes with them”
“I would buy sustainable sneakers if more on trend options were available”
“ I tend to buy more branded shoes as opposed to buying unbranded ones”
17
COMPETITOR ANALYSIS
VEJA ➢
Veja is a French brand footwear and accessories.
➢
Ecological and sustainable approach
➢
Fair trade conditions
➢
Work with cooperatives of small producers and social associations in Brazil and France.
➢
Timeless design
➢
Upper in vegan CWL leather
➢
Logo V made of rubber
➢
Lining in organic cotton
➢
Insole made out of expanded P.U. and organic cotton
➢
Sole made of wild rubber from the Amazon forest
➢
Made in Brazil, in the region of Porto Alegre
RESEARCH JOURNEY
COMPETITOR ANALYSIS VEJA
CUSTOMER
COMMUNICATION
DISTRIBUTION ➢
20-30yrs
➢
Eco conscious
➢
45 countries internationally
➢
Responsable
➢
Online and offline retail.
➢
European
➢
Wholesale
➢
Casual/Timeless
➢
Recycled cardboard
➢
Female/Male & Kids
➢
Trendy
➢
Popular among celebs
➢
packaging ➢
Logistics by Atelier Sans Frontiere
Social media - instagram, facebook, twitter.
➢
Transparency
➢
pop up stores
➢
International events
➢
Word of mouth
➢
Credible promotion through magazine features.
PRODUCTS
SHOES PRICE 85Eur - 130Eur STYLES Trainers in 14 different styles with 3+ colour options.
ADIDAS PARLEY 160€
This running shoe displays a rod designed based on the material Parley Ocean Plastic ™. Its lightweight mesh design adapts to the shape of the foot with every stride. Cushioning dynamic and flexible outsole provide run while energy. This product is a collaboration with the project "Parley for the Oceans". It has been crafted from Parley Ocean Plastic ™ material, designed from recycled waste collected on beaches and coasts before they reach the ocean.
RESEARCH JOURNEY
COMPETITOR ANALYSIS PARLEY
CUSTOMER
➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢
22-38 yrs old Sport focused Seek comfort Environmentally friendly Fashion conscious but not a priority. international
COMMUNICATION DISTRIBUTION ➢ ➢
➢ ➢
11 million shoes produced from recycled ocean plastic. international retail in Adidas stores. Online retail
➢ ➢ ➢
Across all social media channels - instagram, facebook and twitter. Events internationally Ambassador influencers. support marathons
PRODUCTS
SHOES PRICE 90- 160 EUR STYLES Trainers in 14 different styles with 3+ colour options.
POSITIONING MAPPING
Performance
Fashion Forward
Classic
Casual
COMPETITIVE SHOPPING
OPIUM SNEAKERS PARIS ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢
Niche Paris based multibrand snearker store Mostly street/fashion sneakers Both male/female Price range: €120 - €600 BRAND PORTFOLIO: ○ Nike, Adidas, Vans, Puma,... Famous for limited sneaker editions Strong reputation in sneaker community Collabs with renowned sneaker brands ex: nike air 180 opium Sneaker drop culture
FOOTLOCKER PARIS BOTH STREETWEAR AND ATHLETIC OPTIONS ➔ WIDE RANGE OF LEADING BRANDS: PUMA, CONVERSE, ADIDAS, NIKE etc. ➔ OFFERS EXCLUSIVE LIMITED DROPS ➔ PRICE: €30 - €300 ➔ ACCESSIBLE FOR EVERYONE ➔ CHAIN STORE SPECIALIZES IN FOOTWEAR FOR MEN, WOMEN AND CHILDREN ➔ A HUGE OFFERING, CAN BE OVERWHELMING ➔
29
CUSTOMER RESEARCH
LONDON EARNING RESEARCH In order to understand our target markets potential income we have conducted an overall research for the annual income in specific sectors. These earnings allow us to price out sneaker accordingly as well as solidifies our target market. We have chosen to analyze the London job sectors as TFW’s head office is in based in london suggesting our main target would be London. As we are distributing internationally we understand job descriptions and annual incomes may vary by country.
OUR CUSTOMER TARGET: THE CREATIVE PROFESSIONAL Accomplished professionals in various creative ďŹ elds compromise our main target group. They include architects, graphic designers, marketeers, and several other creative vocations linked through problem solution, self expression, and evolution. These creative professionals might be in different ďŹ elds however they all share several common interests. Art, innovation, and technology are a few of those interests all of which we are offering. Targeting these consumers will also be more streamlined as they work in the same circles and are present in the similar spaces.
32
LONDON CUSTOMER TARGET EARNINGS
MARKETING Marketing assistant = £18,000 to £22,000 Marketing executive = £20,000 to £30,000 senior marketing executive = £30,000 and £45,000 marketing director = £60,000 to in excess of £100,000
ARCHITECT Average annual salary for london based architects £72,500-£92,500 In February 2019, the average salary for Architect jobs rose by £3,635 (15%).
LONDON CUSTOMER TARGET EARNINGS
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
33
PHOTOGRAPHER
Average annual salary for london based graphic designer
Average annual salary for london based
£27,500-£37,500
photographers £29,043
In February 2019, the average salary for Graphic Designer
17% above national average
jobs fell by £6,802 (7%).
34
DAY IN THE LIFE OF CREATIVE PROFESSIONALS
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A JUNIOR ARCHITECT 08.00 - 08.30: Commute to work, walk to metro while browsing through the newspaper
08.30: I grab a coffee at the Nespresso machine in the ofďŹ ce, and have a chat with my colleagues to catch up.
08.45 - 9.45: Reading through emails, organizing today’s to do.
9.45 - 12.00: Working on computer, preparing drawings, design in 3D and communicate design solutions to clients
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A JUNIOR ARCHITECT 12.00 - 13.00: Lunch & learn, free lunch, where industry knowledge is shared
13.00 - 15.30: Team meeting to discuss project.To make sure everyone is on the same page.
15.30 - 18.00: Site visit, checking on evolution & discussing changes
18.30 - 19.30: I go for a Yoga class, to relax and to keep up my health.
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A JUNIOR ARCHITECT 20.00: Home to enjoy the evening. Outside the ofďŹ ce I like to go eat at my favorite restaurants, ride my bicycle, and work on personal projects
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A GRAPHIC DESIGNER Arrive at the ofďŹ ce and log into their project management system to see what has changed over night and when needs to be done today
Meet with the client or art director to collate ideas and ensure they see the same vision for the project.
Lunch in the ofďŹ ce or with client.
Sketch designs for another project whilst creating a layout for another. - multi tasking.
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A GRAPHIC DESIGNER Use adobe creative suite to turn sketches into a digital ďŹ le.
Follow up with clients to check to progress and status of the project.
Share progress with art director and client for conďŹ rmation and changes that might need to be made.
CUSTOMER COMMUNITY
RESEARCH JOURNEY
CUSTOMER COMMUNITY
DEMOGRAPHICS
AGE 23 - 32 GENDER All inclusive. LOCATION City living / Close to city suburbs. JOB DESCRIPTION Creative industry/ Technical
NEEDS / VALUES
COMMON NEEDS Versatility, Comfort, Practicality and Creativity. VALUES Environmentally conscious, Optimistic, Quality of both life and consumption, Accountability.
COMMON INTERESTS
HEALTH AND WELLBEING Enjoy a healthy lifestyle, eat whole foods and exercise regularly.
HOBBIES
CULTURE Museum visits, Art Gallery exhibitions. HEALTH AND FITNESS Yoga, Marathons, Hiking, Walking ART AND CREATION Painting, Photography, Sculpting, Pottery.
FASHION Have interest in fashion trends TECH SAVVY Aware of new tech trends, Often purchase new gadgets. COMMUNITY BASED Participating in local events, Volunteering CULTURAL EVENTS Festivals, concerts, quiz nights.
CUSTOMER COMMUNITY MOODBOARD
43
CUSTOMER PROFILE
EMILY MARKETING ASSISTANT ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢
28 yrs Degree in communication and marketing strategy Degree in fashion design Salary £20,000/year Puppy Oscar Curious and critical consumer Love for minimalism Good value for money Keen interest in beauty & skincare Lives in Hackney Commutes to the city center 3-4 days a week via Tube/Train Lives with her boyfriend Rented 1 bedroom apartment. Interest in fitness and lifestyle, runs/yoga.
OUR CUSTOMER PERSONA Helps to understand to whom our concept caterers,, who exactly are the people this product speaks to, how do they act and behave?
44
CUSTOMER PROFILE
JAMES FREELANCE PHOTOGRAPHER ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔
26 yrs Entrepreneur Lives out of London Salary £28,000/year Catches tube in winter & walks in summer works part time in a tech start-up with his friends. Environmental conscious Fashion forward Not into big brands, prefers smaller local brands Politically involved Has a dog FInancially stable Rents a flat SIngle Side job/hobby: photography
OUR CUSTOMER PERSONA Helps to understand to whom our concept caterers,, who exactly are the people this product speaks to, how do they act and behave?
45
USER JOURNEY
CUSTOMER JOURNEY
Customer Needs ➔ Comfort ➔ Sustainability ➔ Fit and Form Preferred Channels ➔ Online - Social Media and Website ➔ Offline - Brick and Mortar stores Behaviours: ➔ Loyal to a delivering brand Emotions throughout the journey: ➔ Excited ➔ Optimism ➔ Curious ➔ Content
NEED / DISCOVERY / AWARENESS
Need Triggered: What desire does the customer look for ? ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔
Better fitting shoes Sustainable and long lasting shoes Comfortable and practical shoes Multi Usage
Awareness: How does the customer come to know TFW ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔
Social Media advertising Digital advertisement Email Marketing Word of Mouth
RESEARCH, PLANNING & CONTACT CHANNELS Kind of research conducted ➔ ➔
Primary - Asking around Secondary - Social media, blogs, reviews about the brand and product
Channels utilized ➔
➔
Social Media - Instagram,Twitter or facebook to see the reputability of the brand Print - Magazines and Newspapers for articles and ads
DECISION & PURCHASE Purchase Process ➔ ➔ ➔
Online via Website Online via Instagram - after scrolling through feed Brick and Mortar store - in order to experience
Why they choose TFW over others ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔
Sustainable Design friendly ( The shoe has many designs) Revolutionary ( Contributing to the change of the world) Environmental (The shoe assists in preserving the environment) Practicality ( The shoe has multiple uses)
POST PURCHASE Identification of whether customer’s needs are met ➔ ➔
Pain points relieved Comfort in the shoe and practicality
Advocacy ➔ ➔
Emotions after purchase ( Happy, Disappointed,or Curious) Will the customer post about the brand or review the brand on a public platform
AWARENESS ➔ ➔
➔
➔ ➔ ➔ ➔
➔ ➔
➔ ➔
Emily wants new shoes Frustrated and disappointed Her current pairs of shoes are uncomfortable and do not fit too well. Frustrated and hopeless She's looking for comfort and well fitted sneakers Hopeful She is a big social media user so she can be targeted on social media or through email marketing. Optimistic While on instagram she sees a TFW Ad advertising the shoe Excited and curious She is now aware of the brand and wants to conduct more research
Example
RESEARCH ➔
➔ ➔
➔ ➔
➔ ➔
She clicks on their page on instagram and scrolls in order to find out more about the philosophy of the brand, the style and designs offered etc. Excited
➔
Jane likes to shop online in order to save time
➔
She inspects their delivery and fit conditions ( a well as colours offered by brand)
She enters the website (through instagram) to see the shoe variety and prices. Curious and Hopeful
➔
She checks hashtags (on social media) to see if anyone else has heard of the brand and whether it is reputable Investigative She looks at reviews about the brand ( on blogs and on twitter).
➔
She contacts a few friends to conduct research on the brand
➔
She then decides she likes it and wants to purchase. Hopeful, Optimistic, Happy, Relieved
➔
PURCHASE
ADVOCACY ➔ ➔
➔
➔
➔
She sends a few photos to friends and family to help make a decision Excited, curious and nervous She purchases the shoe and waits for delivery
On occasion, she likes to walk in to the brick and mortar store in order to experience the environment of the store
➔
➔
The TFW meet her pain points and she is satisfied Satisfied and relieved The shoe fits well and looks fashionable enough to wear at anytime of the day - ( meaning that she is a happy customer) Impressed
➔
The brand remains interactive post purchase with filter vending machines
➔
The shoe is comfortable
➔
She recommends it to close friends and family Impressed, Happy, Pleased
➔ ➔
She is now a loyal customer to the brand and will return to buy the shoes one again.
52
DESIGN//CONCEPT RESEARCH
53
ATHLEISURE MOVEMENT SUSTAINABILITY
The footwear market is constantly evolving to accommodate consumer behaviors and activities.
Sustainable and recycled materials and
For example, the tendency to multitask and lead
eco-friendly manufacturing processes are a will
an on-the-go lifestyle for many millennials has
be one of the top priorities in the footwear
influenced the sneaker category substantially.
industry the following years. Consumers now demand comfort, expect “The key trend now dominating discussions
function and versatility, and want their footwear
among brands is sustainability: How to reduce
to be able to perform in a variety of settings. To
waste in supply chains and at the factory, and
succeed in the future brands must be innovative
how to use materials that are sustainable,”
and embrace social- and eco-consciousness as this is key to the young consumer cohort that will soon comprise their largest customer base.
54
CHUNCKY SOLES
SOCK SNEAKERS
Chunky soles will continue into 2019 taking
Word on the street is that the cool new name for
after shoes from the luxury sector like the
sock sneakers is “snockers”. Whatever you call the
Louis Vuitton Arclight, Gucci Flashtrek, and
sock and shoe hybrid, the trend is hailed for
Balenciaga Track. The major footwear brands
combining performance and streetwear, making
have been clearly influenced by this trend. It
it both comfortable and chic. From sporting
will continue to captivate. Chunky 90s-vibe
goods specialists, like Nike and adidas, to high
runners, performance styles from the early
fashion labels, like Balenciaga and Fendi,
’00s and modern hybrids will be fixtures on
everyone’s honing in on this trend.
shelves and on feet in 2019
55
INNOVATION//TECH RESEARCH SNEAKERS NIKE SELF LACING
UNDER ARMOUR HOVR
Nike Self lacing HyperAdapt 1.0 shoe is one of the
Under Armour HOVR Phantom and HOVR sonic
most revolutionary innovative designs.
shoes are an athletes dream. In built sensors record the users metrics via a chip which is then sent to the
Pressure sensors are incorporated into the soles
users phone. Pace, distance, stride and cadence can
which triggers a small mechanisimm which then self
be measured more accurately than a regular phone
laces to the users speciďŹ c foot dimensions.
app.
The shoe also has built in LED light displays which
The shoe is also made from special zero gravity
alert the user on battery life.
cushioning fabric which allows the user comfort and agility.
A running, basketball and general sportshoe is available with a fortnightly charge required.
56
INNOVATION//TECH RESEARCH SNEAKERS DIGITSOLE Digitsole is speciďŹ cally designed to customise for every user. Connected to a smart phone via bluetooth these shoes provide personalised feedback and analyze the users health, fatigue, posture, steps and calories burned to create a precise data entry which is designed for users to improve health and prevent injury. The shoe is lightweight and available for both men and women. The newer versions also include auto lacing and a temperature regulation feature which gives maximum comfort to the user.
57
SUMMARY DESIGN
THE TRANSLATION INTO DESIGN A sneaker, with a modern and innovative design and character. that helps us build towards a better future. This sneaker is both tech and science fused together, with its integrated air ďŹ ltration system and its durable 3D printed sole. This sneaker will meet the highest aesthetic expectations, with its modern design. A sneaker that is designed in such a way it’s suitable for both performance and daily wear, with the main focus on versatility, comfort and design. The shoes will be designed out of sustainable innovative textiles and materials as well sustainable technologies..
59 OVERVIEW
COLOUR PALETTE
#Pantone 16-1212 TPG
#Pantone 17-1512 TPG
#Pantone 13-1008 TPG
#Pantone 15-1906 TPG
#Pantone 13-0513 TPG
#Pantone 15-2706 TPG
#Pantone 17-4402 TPG
#Pantone 18-0108 TPG
#Pantone 19-3933 TPG
#Pantone 11-4800 TPG
#Pantone 14-6319 TPG
#Pantone 16-4021 TPG
#Pantone 13-4108 TPG
#Pantone 12-0312 TPG
#Pantone 14-4210 TPG
OVERVIEW SPORTY RANGE
COLLECTION PLAN
Cost: £61 Wholesale price: £121 Retail price: £330
Cost: £61 Wholesale price: £121 Retail price: £330
Cost: £48 Wholesale price: £95 Retail price: £260
Cost: £26 Wholesale price: £80 Retail price: £220
Cost: £48 Wholesale price: £95 Retail price: £260
OVERVIEW CASUAL RANGE
COLLECTION PLAN
Cost: £47 Wholesale price: £95 Retail price: £260
Cost: £35 Wholesale price: £78 Retail price: £220
Cost: £47 Wholesale price: £95 Retail price: £260
Cost: £61 Wholesale price: £121 Retail price: £330
Cost: £35 Wholesale price: £78 Retail price: £220
PRICING POSITIONING
70 £
80 £
90 £
95 £
110 £
230 £
+250 £
PRICE RANGE TFW
260 £
440 £
63
MATERIAL SOURCING
64
UPPER PART MATERIAL OPTIONS
MATERIALS
BIOSTEEL® Biosteel® fibers are 100% nature based biopolymers. Mimicking nature and how a spider spins its web Biosteel fibre a woven to create a durable, silk like finish. Their intelligent fiber is superior due to its combination of strength and elasticity – and at the same time ultralight. This all comes with high skin sensation behavior, controlled moisture management and 100% biodegradable. 100% vegan and biodegradable.
MATERIALS
APPLE LEATHER Apple leather is made using a by-product from the apple juice and cider industry as the main raw ingredient. Using a unique and environmentally friendly process, this by-product is turned into a high quality material - Apple Leather. It’s sustainable, biodegradable and of course vegan, made only using ingredients found in nature and can be used for every application, anywhere leather is used today.
SOLE MATERIAL OPTIONS
MATERIALS
EPU: ELASTOMERIC POLYURETHANE EPU is in the elastomeric material family at Carbon. Its combination of tear strength, energy return, and elongation makes it perfect for cushioning, impact absorption, vibration isolation, gaskets, and seals. The EPU family (EPU 40 and EPU 41) is especially well-suited for producing elastomeric lattices to create foam-like product experiences. EPU 40 is the original elastomer material created by Carbon. EPU 40 has higher elongation and tear strength, but lower resilience, compared to the next generation EPU 41.
MATERIALS
EVA ( ETHYLENE-VINYL ACETATE) EVA, or Ethylene-vinyl acetate is a compact vinyl foam. This material is very lightweight and is one of the best for absorbing impact when walking. But that's not all: it's recyclable, water-resistant and cold proof. Eva is an easily produced and moulded product which allows for our shoes to be lightweight when paired with the heavier leather upper sole. As it is easily produced it is also an affordable option when paired with more expensive materials.
SHOE DETAILING MATERIAL OPTIONS
MATERIALS
SIL: SILICONE Soft touch, biocompatible, and tear resistant. SIL 30 is a silicone urethane. It is the first additive material to offer a unique combination of biocompatibility, low durometer, and tear-resistance. This material opens up the ability to print customized applications for comfortable skin contact products such as headphones, wristbands, and various attachments for wearables. SIL is a specialty material available for specific production applications. At Carbon, you can produce one to one million end-use parts with industrial grade materials and exceptional surface finish.
MATERIALS
ECO ELASTIC Dali Elastic, a woven elastic specialist, recently unveiled a new range of four planet-friendly woven elastics: Eco Elastic Organic Cotton, with 74.2% biodegradable organic cotton is GOTS-certified and free of toxic chemical dyes. The range also includes: Eco Elastic Tencel™ Modal, a blend of fibres with over 60% Modal for softness and strength, in addition to high-performance absorption and moisture-management. With 54% Tencel, Eco Elastic Tencel™ Lyocell offers enhanced comfort, hand-feel and breathability. Eco Elastic Recycled Polyester is created using fibres recycled from bottles: it offers the same qualities as virgin polyester, as well as a reduced environmental impact.
SUPPLIER RESEARCH
MATERIALS
THE APPLE GIRL The Apple Girl is a new material innovation created by Hannah Michaud; a female American Entrepreneur who has partnered with the engineer university DTU in Copenhagen, Denmark to transform apple waste into the leather of the future. Her goal is to help the industry shift away from traditional fossil fuel-based resources to biological-based materials. To accomplish this dream, she has created Apple Girl a biodegradable leather bringing together the fashion and food industry. At the apple girl, they aim to combine all the advantages and leave out all the side effects in their leather production.
https://theapplegirl.org/
SUPPLIERS
3D SYSTEMS Established in 1983 in the USA, 3D Systems has run on innovation for over 30 years. 3D Systems has grown into a global 3D solutions company focused on connecting our customers with the expertise and digital manufacturing workow required to solve their business, design or engineering problems. With advanced hardware, software and materials as well as on demand manufacturing services and a global team of experts, we are on a mission to transform businesses through manufacturing innovation. They developed a 3D printed midsole for a New Balance.
SUPPLIERS
With its totally unique and integrated process from the pioneering protein production all the way to the fiber spinning, our Biosteel® fiber offers customers high-tech biofabrication made by AMSilk: They have been producing bulk material on a large industrial scale since 2014.Their production of biopolymers runs with bioreactors of more than 50.000 liter capacity. The Biosteel® process developed by AMSilk is completely produced with renewable resources. Biofabrication in Germany
SUPPLIERS
Dali is committed to continuous modernization of manufacturing standards at all production facilities. This is complemented by:
➢
The highest qualifications and professional training for employees.
➢
A constant quest in the Production Department to advance the production techniques and methods
To achieve the aim of producing elastic bands at excellent quality, Dali uses only the high-quality raw materials that are environmental-friendly and have no harm to human health (certified by OEKO-TEX Standard 100). Established in 1993, Dali Elastic runs a production site spanning 5,000m² in Jingjiang, China
78
PRODUCTION & MANUFACTURING
PRODUCTION COMPARISONS
79
PRO’S
SPAIN ➢
➢ ➢ ➢
➢
➢
➢
Spain is the second-largest footwear producing country in the European Union after Italy, with 96.5 million pairs of shoes produced in 2013. Long history of manufacturing footwear Lower transport costs compared to countries in Asia Lower production costs compared to other European countries like Italy and France Possibility for financing with good payment terms when countries like China do not offer any China is not as competitive as it once was as labor conflicts arise and wages continue to climb Spain’s economic downturn has increased competition in the shoe industry allowing for good quality shoe production for less
➢ ➢
Cheaper manufacturing costs compared to European countries
➢
Higher output in less time
➢
Easy market expansion
➢
opportunities ➢
Better service, quicker response
➢
Duplication capabilities, imitating desired designs
➢
Very similar craftsmanship to France and Italy with significantly lower labour costs the industry is composed of small-scale factories with very low minimums, which attract higher-end designers and top-tier ranges. It is easy, cheap, super-quick, normally three days for the import of raw materials such as hides, heels, outsoles, trims, metal components, etcetera from Italy, France and the UK, as well as decent local component supply.”
PRODUCTION COMPARISONS
80
CON’S
➢
Risk of shoe production being delegated to an underground economy
➢
Lack of work inspections
➢
Bad working conditions
➢
Employment contracts are some of
➢
Finding a factory willing to work with you
➢
Language communication barrier
➢
Stigma of manufacturing in China
➢
Much higher minimums compared to Spain
the lowest in Europe
➢
Higher shipping costs and time
➢
Lack of regulation
➢
Unpredictability
➢
Pressure from labor unions
➢
Reputation of poor quality, used to be considered the “China of Europe”
➢
Made in Portugal is less appealing than Made in France, Italy, or Spain
➢
Not as innovative as their European counterparts
➢
More difficult to find the right shoe manufacturer to fit our needs
CONCLUSION OF MANUFACTURING RESEARCH
81
After researching potential countries to manufacture in, we have decided to choose Portugal as our main manufacturer. Due to the geographical position in Europe, Portugal makes it easier to ship orders to our warehouse in Spain ready for distribution elsewhere. Small scale factories will allow us to get more attention and give us lower minimums which are essential at the very beginning. Given Portugal's reputation in shoe making and the credible products and brands of our chosen manufacturer gives Aeres a stamp of quality. Speed of manufacturing is also some of the fastest in the region giving us a certain exibility
MANUFACTURERS
ARLITO Arlitó was created in 1980 in Portugal as a family business and still remains so to this date. Their aim is to provide customers with the highest grade of quality in footwear manufacturing, sharp delivery timings and flexible re-order lead times. Recognized for its flexibility in introducing new developments at short notice, Arlitó is a reference of quality and innovation in the industry.
83
DISTRIBUTION STRATEGY
84
CHOSEN DISTRIBUTION CHANNELS
85
CONCEPT//MULTIBRAND STORES
DEPARTMENT STORES
E-COMMERCE
TFW will target concept/multi brand
TFW will be represent in department stores
TFW will distribute from their own
stores with their niche, innovate idea
through shop in shop.
webshop, directly to the consumer.
yet fashionable sneaker as wholesale partners.
Advantages:
Advantages:
1. Located in renown/convenient city areas
1. Highest Margin
Advantages:
2. Lots of passage/trafďŹ c
2. Always open for business (24/7)
1. Take stock risk
3. Ads legitimacy to the brand when
3. Worldwide reach
2. Deposit payment
represent in prestige department stores
4. Provides the company with useful data.
3. Often offering experiences
5. Opportunity to scale
4. Niche, unique product portfolio
Disadvantages:
5. Free Marketing/communication
1. Commission on sales
6. Add legitimacy/prestige to the brand
2. High space rent
Disadvantages:
3. Highly competitive environment
1. Finance own stock levels
6. In control of brand image
Disadvantages:
2. No try before the buy
1. Wholesale revenue
3. Highly competitive
2. Smaller margin
4. Shipment costs
3. No control on brand image
86 DISTRIBUTION STRATEGY
14%
OF TOTAL PRODUCTION FOR E-COMMERCE
20%
OF TOTAL PRODUCTION FOR DEPARTMENT STORES
66%
OF TOTAL PRODUCTION FOR CONCEPT/MULTI-BRAND STORES NOTE: STRATEGY SEASON 1 YEAR 1
EXPLAINED With TFW being a start-up company, money has to be available for production. Therefore, we decided to partner with wholesalers to ensure cash flow for production. Wholesalers deposits will cover the cost related to production and manufacturing. Department, concept and multi brand stores will be chosen according to the brands values and image. Being represented in renown stores, adds legitimacy to the brand, it increases brand awareness and grows brand image. With shoes, being a difficult accessory to buy online and own retail spaces coming with high investment, wholesalers seem the best option to launch TFW. In today's society, everyone is connected 24/7 which brings with the rise of e-commerce. TFW will therefore have their own webshop in which they are able to cater to everyone worldwide 24/7. Shoes are not the most easy product to sell online, as well does TFW need to finance the production and take the risk on them. Only operating through ecommerce would ask for high cost in marketing and communication to create enough awareness to generate the same amount of revenue that will be generated partnership with wholesalers.
87
WORLD DISTRIBUTION YEAR 1 // SEASON 1 CONCEPT STORES (23) DEPARTMENT STORES (8) RETAIL (1)
88
WORLD DISTRIBUTION YEAR 1 // SEASON 1 YEAR 1 // SEASON 2 CONCEPT STORES (35) DEPARTMENT STORES (13) RETAIL (1)
89
WORLD DISTRIBUTION YEAR 1 // SEASON 1 YEAR 1 // SEASON 2 YEAR 2 CONCEPT STORES (50) DEPARTMENT STORES (19) RETAIL (1)
90
WORLD DISTRIBUTION YEAR 1 // SEASON 1 YEAR 1 // SEASON 2 YEAR 2 YEAR 3 CONCEPT STORES (55) DEPARTMENT STORES (25) RETAIL (1)
91
LAUNCHING CITIES
92
LAUNCH ING CITIES
LONDON & AMSTERDAM We have decided to start our product launch in 2 main european cities: London & Amsterdam We decided on these two cities because they both express the same values of being environmentally conscious. After reviewing both cities habitants and overall demographics and psychographics we believe both cities have potential customers who would consume our products.
93
LAUNCH ING CITIES
WHY AMSTERDAM? Our second city we have chosen is Amsterdam. By choosing a city in Europe we have the ability to keep our distribution tighter and closely monitor the success of the first year. The reasons for choosing Amsterdam
➢
European city - export taxes and free circulation of goods.
➢
consumers fit the values of our chosen design and concept.
➢
geographical position in relation to pollution.
➢
Their outlook on environment
➢
Ability to monitor control through owners is easier given its European placement.
94
5.3 MILLION TOURIST VISITS YEARLY
146 ACTIVE ETHNICITIES
58% OF HABITANTS CYCLE
WRITE HERE
81% OF THE TITLE ONE POPULATION IS Entrepreneurial activities differ HIGHLY HEALTH Substantially depending on the type of organization CONSCIOUS
MOST EXPENSIVE TRAIN SERVICES IN AVERAGE INCOME THE31,000 WORLD EUR
AMSTERDAM LIVING ANALYSIS Amsterdam is slowly rising in popularity as the years go on. This makes it very attractive to upcoming brands in terms of distribution. Amsterdam demographics share similar health, buyer, and activity practices.
POPULATION 821 752
50TH MOST EXPENSIVE PLACE TO LIVE
95
LAUNCH ING CITIES
WHY LONDON? We have decided to launch ARES by TFW firstly in London, distributing exclusive to Selfridges and through their own retail space. We have chosen London because ➢
It is the originating city, home of the brand and where the creators live and operate.
➢
The technology was originally designed for the london customer, meeting the original values of the brand.
➢
The London consumer fits our targeted market. We believe the London livers characteristics fit the brand vision and use.
LONDON IS THE MOST EXPENSIVE UK CITY
MONTHLY RENT FOR ONE A 45SQM TITLE Entrepreneurial activities differ IN APARTMENT Substantially depending on CITY CENTER the type of organization 1,753P
10TH MOST EXPENSIVE COUNTRY IN THE WORLD
MOST EXPENSIVE TRAIN SERVICES IN THE WORLD
WRITE HERE
MOST EXPENSIVE TRAIN FURNISHED SERVICES IN THE STUDIO WORLD PRICE IN WESTERN EUROPE
LONDON LIVING ANALYSIS London is ranked as one of the most expensive cities to live in the world. This effect customers buying power ( depending on their annual income) at allows us to strategically place our product
LONDON POPULATION 9 176 530
96
MOST ETHNICALLY DIVERSE CITY IN UK 37% OF THE POP BORN OUTSIDE THE UK
accordingly.
COMMUNICATION STRATEGY
INFLUENCERS
SOCIAL MEDIA Why // Benefits: 1. Millennial target 24/7 connected 2. 3.03 billion active social media users 3. 90% of Instagram users are younger than 35 4. Community creation 5. Wide/International reach
GUERILLA
Why // Benefits:
Why // Benefits:
1. Influencer gain respect and authority
1. Cost-effective
2. Brand Exposure
2. Fun
3. Influence buying decisions
3. Relevant
4. It’s efficiënt
4. Increase brand awareness
5. Convey brand values
5. Wide reach
6. Following of target audience
6. Generate word-of-mouth reaction
7. Increase trust and credibility
7. Generate buzz
8. More organically 9. Increase brand awareness 10. Increase sales
6. Cost-effective
WEBSITE
7. Increase brand awareness 8. Allows targeted ads
COLLABORATION
9. Customer service (providing support) 10. Increase sales
Why // Benefits:
11. Communicate brand univers/values
1. Ads legitimacy
12. Free target market insights
2. Brand exposure
13. Competition is present on social
3. Sparks interest // create buz
media
4. Purpose through the collaborating brand image 5. Penetration into prospective markets 6. General attraction and appeal
Why // Benefits: 1. Curated platform 2. Shape public perceptions 3. Add credibility 4. Customer Service 5. Get in Touch 6. Communicate brand universe/values
SOCIAL MEDIA COMMUNICATION Social media plays a crucial role in connecting people and developing relationships. It takes a central stage in the way we communicate nowadays in which we have the ability to communicate and consume information within seconds. With a limited budget social media allows a company to reach millions of people worldwide, conveying their brand univers/values. Social Media opens up for interaction, engagement and dialogue. Social media allows us to gather AERES fans into one platform, creating a community around the brand.
100
INFLUENCER STRATEGY To maximise on global reach, and increase relevance with the millennial market that currently exist predominately on Instagram, influencers will be chosen from the major existing target markets such as Europe, the US, Australia, to post about the shoes on their accounts. Both macro and micro influencers will be used in the mix, however only influencers that reflect our brand values of sustainability will be used, communicating once again the brand message.
OFFLINE GUERRILLA COMMUNICATION Guerrilla marketing will be used in promotion of Aeres across all major cities. This interactive and eye catching promotional strategy allows for users to subconsciously take in the brands information. Guerilla marketing is a low cost option with a large impact making it the perfect option to target our city living consumers. This option has been utilised by many brands in order to bring brand recognition to their consumers and create a ‘wow’ factor in the streets.
COMMUNICATION THROUGH COLLABORATION The importance of communication through collaboration is essential. Collaborating with different artists such as Vivienne Westwood will: Give us legitimacy
➢ ➢
Exposure through the collaborating artist/brand ➢ ➢
➢
Credibility Spark interest
Purpose through the collaborating brand image Penetration into prospective markets
➢ ➢
General attraction and appeal
COMMUNICATION THROUGH WEBSITE Most consumers nowadays are researching their product online before purchasing. A website offers a brand a way to elaborate on their values, ideas and univers. Veja offers consumers a transparent approach to communication through their website. A source of inspiration for the future webplatform of TFW. The website will functions as “home base� where customers will be send for further product information as well to make their purchase in the E-store
105
TRY ON SPACES
Part of our communication strategy are try on spaces on remarkable, trendy locations. These spaces will be used to convey the brands values based on locations, visual merchandising, sales assistants ‌ This try on space will grow brand awareness as well offer the opportunity for several experiences. These try on spaces will connect the real world with online shopping. This space will allow people to try on their favorite pair before buying. In the spaces/pop-ups people will be able to make their purchase online.
106
APPENDIX
PRIMARY RESEARCH FINDINGS
CONCLUSIONS âž”
Nearly 70% of people surveyed had never searched for sustainable sneakers
âž”
Used this to focus our efforts on the design aspect to attract our customer rather than relying on the sustainability and technological aspects to sell it
CONCLUSIONS âž”
Whilst half of the people surveyed did ďŹ nd sustainable options they considered stylish, almost half of the people did not, meaning there is still a gap in the market for sustainable sneakers in more stylish designs
CONCLUSIONS ➔
61.1% use sneakers for daily leisure use
➔
19.4% use sneakers to exercise in
➔
Totalling 80,5% of the market
➔
Used this when deciding to split our sneaker offering into two categories
CONCLUSIONS âž”
Most people went for Nike or Adidas when choosing sneaker brands focused more on design than sustainability
CONCLUSIONS ➔
66.7% of people went for trends
➔
72.2% said confort was important
➔
Only 16.7% said sustainability was important
➔
Used this to steer our attention to the design and the design details, rather than relying on the sustainability aspect to sell the shoes for us
CONCLUSIONS ➔
People prefer softer more neutral colours when buying sneakers (nearly 80%)
➔
Used this to help us choose our colour palette
CONCLUSIONS ➔
People prefer softer more neutral colours when buying sneakers
➔
Used this to help us choose our colour palette
➔
White, navy, khaki and grey all scored more highly than colours red, yellow and pink
CONCLUSIONS âž”
People prefer a classic sneaker, chunky sneaker, sporty sneaker or low lifestyle sneaker when purchasing sneakers
âž”
Used this to steer our design designs and direction when choosing to separate our range into two categories
CONCLUSIONS âž”
Most people buy either from specialist labels, online or in department stores, we used this to help determine our distribution strategy
CONCLUSIONS âž”
Most people would consider buying sneakers online
âž”
We used this to help determine our distribution strategy
119
COMPETITOR ANALYSIS
COLLECTION & CO The KARPOS unisex low-top trainer are made from Piñatex® which is pineapple leaf fibres and finished plant based dyes. Designed with a minimalist shape, a round toe and crafted with laces which tone into the colour of the shoe for a timeless design. Set on a 3.4 cm sole with extra padding added to the insoles, tongue and ankle area. Finished with a contrasting logo tab on the back heel and available in two colourways. Possible to have the sneakers made with no logo tab by custom order. All products are made from cruelty-free materials and non-animal glues. Shoes retail for 185.24€ (165£).
ALL BIRDS WOOL RUNNERS £95 GBP Merino sheep’s wool fibres clock in at 20% the diameter of human hair, meaning they’re sporting one superfine coat. We source 17.5 micron superfine New Zealand Merino wool, which we developed into our very own material with a premium Italian mill. It’s temperature-regulating and incredibly cosy, all without an irritating scratchiness. RECYCLED LACES-100% of the material in our laces is post-consumer recycled polyester. One old plastic bottle becomes one pair of durable, sleek shoelaces, designed with inspiration from nautical rope. WOOL UPPER- Our very own textile made from superfine merino wool. Soft and itch-free on the inside, durable and water-resistant on the outside, and comfortable all over. PADDED INSOLE-We line our insoles with our proprietary merino wool fabric for softness, moisture wicking, and odor reduction. For supreme comfort and cushioning, we use castor bean oil, which also cuts carbon output when compared to petroleum-based foam.
REEBOK GURESU THREAD 110 € Reebok collaborated with Thread International to utilize yards made of recycled plastic waste to create a stylish training shoe with environmentally-friendly upper materials. Thread™ fabric is made with 50% recycled PET (plastic bottles). The bottles are collected in Honduras, while the fabric is crafted in the USA. “Working with an organization like Thread International sits squarely into our brand ethos, to Be More Human. It means we intend to continue being thoughtful about how we treat each other, how we treat the planet that we live in, and thinking about what we can do to create opportunities for those of us that live and thrive here as well,” - James Woolard, Senior Director Brand Management ➔
Materials: Upper made with Thread™ fabric utilizing 50% recycled PET (plastic bottles)
➔
Best for: Studio workouts, to and from the gym
➔
Cushioned midsole for shock absorption
➔
Removable Ortholite foam sockliner accommodates orthotics ➔
Turn zone pivot point highlighted on the outsole for easy and precise 360-degree movements
➔
Imported
➔
Product color: Classic White / Straw / Beige / Gum
➔
Product code: CN7439
FEIT In 2004 the FEIT [fight] brand was born as a response to the growth in mass consumption and overproduction. It is mens and womens label that moves away from volume and excess, and towards quality and sustainability. FEIT footwear is built for longevity, from natural materials via human construction. All FEIT footwear is hand sewn and hand lasted by a master shoe maker. Few makers are skilled enough to produce footwear in this manner, hence only limited numbers can be produced. FEIT products are designed in New York and made all over the world—primarily in the United States, Italy, China and Australia. The origin depends on the product itself, the method of construction, and the location of the best craftspeople fit for the task. All shoes retail between 389€-1070€ and their classic, low top, hand sewn sneakers between 506€-585€. https://www.feitdirect.com/
NAT 2 299€ - 500€ High-end German footwear company nat-2 is kicking up a storm with its latest vegan shoe release, creating sneakers made from real hayfield grass and recycled plastic bottles. The sneakers are developed in Germany and Austria and handmade in Italy. The upper of the unisex sneaker is made from “real sustainable hay,” according to Design Boom, as well as grass and flowers which cover 50 percent of the shoe’s surface, depending on the style. To make the shoe, the hay is pressed and placed on to a base layer, giving the footwear a “natural mountain scent.” The insole of the shoe is soft-padded anti-bacterial real cork and the sections that appear to be suede or Nappa leather (which is typically derived from the skin of goats, cows, calves, or lambs) are actually made from recycled PET bottles.
YATAY Sustainable and minimal unisex sneakers. Manufactured in Italy through procedures developed to reduce the environmental impact, Yatay shoes are entirely made of eco-friendly materials and cost between 240â‚Ź and 290â‚Ź. https://www.yatayatay.com/eu
ECOALF 80€ - 100€ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔ ➔
fabric is made from recycled plastic bottles sole is made from seaweed ecodesign that minimizes the use of raw materials and the generation of new wast Resistant and light. Ecoalf create innovative products with recycled fabrics.
ROMBOUT 280€ - 350€ Mats Rombaut’s design is about modernizing our way of thinking. By proposing strong aesthetics and humanist values, ROMBAUT aims to provide a way forward for a world in need of change – “ a progressive concept for a more equitable future. The underlying vision is of an ecological way of life through stark, exposed designs where materials play a fundamental part, both in style and in philosophy. Color, form and detailing are precise, essential and forward-looking. The craftsmanship of ROMBAUT transforms materials at a fundamental level, creating new material innovations out of stone, tree bark, natural rubber, cotton cellulose and coconut fiber. All materials and fabrics are sustainably engineered – there are no toxic or animal-derived substances involved. Instead ROMBAUT develops plant-based materials and is determined to protect biodiversity in our environment.
128
MATERIAL SOURCING
129
UPPER PART MATERIAL OPTIONS
MATERIALS
RECYCLED PET MESH FABRIC PET fabric is sourced and made from plastic bottles. The process involves sterilizing, dryingm crushing followed by a heating process that enables the bottles to be wound up like yarm threads in spools. The fabric is more energy efďŹ cient meaning it has less impact on the environment. The fabric is also durable, soft and comfortable allowing the wearer to feel the breathability of the shoe.
MATERIALS
RECYCLED NYLON Recycled Nylon has the same benefits as recycled polyester: It diverts waste from landfills and its production uses much fewer resources than virgin nylon (including water, energy and fossil fuel). A large part of the recycled nylon produced comes from old fishing nets. This is a great solution to divert garbage from the ocean. It also comes from nylon carpets, tights, etc. Recycling nylon is still more expensive than new nylon, but it has many environmental advantages. A lot of research is currently being conducted to improve the quality and reduce the costs of the recycling process.
MATERIALS
JUTE Jute is one of the most affordable natural fabric. This eco-friendly fabric is also known as a golden fibre. Organic jute fabric is made up of strong and durable fibres and has many advantages as a home textile. Generally, organic jute is blended with cotton to form natural clothing that is a comfortable summer wear. Organic jute is in great demand, due to its affordability and softness. Jute fabric is the most eco-friendly fabric, as the jute fibre can be recycled again and again before its final use. Jute fabric is regularly used in the production of clothes, usually with blends of other organic fabrics. This soft and comfortable fabric has become the fashion fabric, since last few decades. Jute is a rain fed crop, it uses little or no chemical fertilizers; and this makes jute fabric organic and it does not harm the skin of the wearer or the environment.
MATERIALS
HEMP FABRIC Hemp, much like the other fabrics listed on here, absorbs moisture well and is highly breathable. In addition, hemp is naturally anti-microbial and is resistant to mold and mildew, which is important when it’s hot and sticky outside. Hemp fabric can be modified into a more durable fabric and can be used to produce parts of an outer shoe. Hemp it a natural fibre which is eco friendly is stronger than cotton, breathable, washable, mouldable, UV resistant.
MATERIALS
RECYCLED POLYESTER Recycled Polyester is a cheap, widely used synthetic ďŹ ber that is made from petroleum—the same substance that creates the plastic water bottles and takeaway boxes we use. It's a wrinkle-resistant and durable fabric that dries quickly...but it can take up to 200 years to decompose. While polyester can be recycled, breaking it down requires yet another chemical process. Recycled polyester is one of the largest produced materials in the world. It is a highly durable material which is anti wrinkle. It has anti absorbing properties which make it great for incontact with water.
MATERIALS
CHROMIUM-FREE LEATHER vegetable-tanned leather will be used in some styles as main material, or as detail to ensure the right support and ďŹ t. Vegetable-tanned leather is a chrome-free leather tanned with organic compounds only. Leather is usually tanned using heavy metals, like chrome, which generate high levels of pollution in the waters close to tanneries.
MATERIALS
ECCO VESPER LEATHER Stone Burnished like Ancient Greek Statues, ECCO Vesper Leather has a luxurious shine inspired by marble-polished, stone surfaces.
MATERIALS
ECCO DROID LEATHER PRODUCT DESCRIPTION Inspired by vintage athletic shoes, Droid is ECCO’s softest leather made for casual footwear. It is natural with an elegant shine. ATTRIBUTES ●
Substance: 0.8 - 1.0 mm
●
Softness: 4.5 - 5.0 mm
●
Oil Content: <10%
●
Skin Size: 20 - 24 SF
●
Material: Bovine Cowhide
MATERIALS
ECCO DYNEEMA BONDED LEATHER Light, Thin and Super Strong DYNEEMA® BONDED LEATHER, a new material created by ECCO Leather and The Dyneema® Project: the thinnest yet strongest leather in the market. DYNEEMA® BONDED LEATHER is a paper-thin material, just 0.5-millimetre-thick, with the appealing and luxurious look of leather. The secret of DYNEEMA® BONDED LEATHER is rooted in a multi-phase development sequence involving pre-tanning, bonding, and a careful series of interim and final-tanning stages. The result is a unique new leather featuring a fine natural surface character that blends Dyneema’s distinctive fiber-structure within the leather’s original grain-pattern.
MATERIALS
ECCO DECCAN LEATHER A soft layer of acrylic is applied to the surface of the hide, then manipulated until cracks appear, allowing for sprayed-on colour to seep through and create a distinctive webbed, map-like pattern. Super soft and full of substance, DECCAN is milled until its acrylic coating disappears, and a plush hand-feel and a faint pebble grain remain, adding depth and intrigue to its patterned surface.
MATERIALS
ECCO APPARITION LEATHER The First Soft and Transparent Cow Skin Leather. An innovative material designed for garments and shoes. Made from full grain bovine material in two substances and ten colour tones.
SOLE MATERIAL OPTIONS
MATERIALS
DURAFORM FLEX TPU DuraForm Flex TPU, a thermoplastic elastomer material
with
rubber-like
ďŹ&#x201A;exibility
and
functionality, will be used as material for the sneakers 3D printed midsole. The midsole is the
portion
of
the
shoe
base
that
is
sandwiched between the outsole (the portion that touches the ground) and the upper (the portion that touches your foot). The midsole is the part of the shoe that provides cushioning and support to your foot. Duraform Flex TPU will meet AERES needs
from ďŹ&#x201A;exibility and
strength, to weight and durability.
MATERIALS
FPU: Flexible Polyurethane Offering high impact strength, cycle life, and CLIP’s exceptional surface finish, FPU is a material without equal in the additive industry. It is designed to withstand repetitive stresses, making it ideal for tough enclosures, hinging mechanisms, and friction fits. FPU is comparable to polypropylene. FPU behaves similarly to injection-molded polypropylene with moderate stiffness and impact strengths of 40 J/m. FPU elongates over 280% before breaking under 29 MPa of stress.
MATERIALS
RPU: Rigid Polyurethane Rigid Polyurethane is our most versatile rigid material family. It is used across a wide range of industries, including consumer products, automotive, and industrial. RPU 70 has a UL 94 HB flame resistance classification. RPU is comparable to ABS. RPU is stiff and strong, with ultimate tensile strengths of 45 MPa. RPU withstands stresses up to 45 MPa before yielding, and elongates 100% before breaking. This combination of strength and ductility enables it to outperform ABS – and makes it an excellent replacement for Nylon.
SUPPLIER RESEARCH
MATERIAL SUPPLIERS
CARBON Carbon works at the intersection of hardware, software, and molecular science. Our vision is a future fabricated with light, where traceable, final-quality parts are produced at scale with CLIP technology. CLIP — Continuous Liquid Interface Production — makes this vision possible by combining engineering-grade materials with exceptional resolution and surface finish. HARNESSING LIGHT AND OXYGEN TO PRODUCE OBJECTS FROM A POOL OF RESIN, CLIP is a photochemical process that eliminates the shortcomings of conventional 3D printing by harnessing light and oxygen to rapidly produce objects from a pool of resin. From everyday products like tennis shoes and electronics, to industrial components, to highly customizable medical devices, CLIP makes it possible for creators to design the parts and products of the future.
MATERIAL SUPPLIERS
ECCO DRIVING LEATHER INNOVATION ECCO Leather develops highly progressive leather qualities for some of the industry’s most iconic contemporary designers and brands. With a main tanning facility in the Netherlands. And award-winning facilities across Europe, Southeast Asia and the Far East. ECCO Leather production network is characterized by clean, secure and flexible operations scaled to suit growing customer needs while ensuring seamless communication with customer-designated finished-goods manufacturers. They ensure to always implement environmentally sound methods and technology.
148
PRODUCTION & MANUFACTURING
MANUFACTURERS
FRIENDLY FACTORIES Friendly Factories is a group of textile manufacturers based in the North of Portugal. They are specialised in the development and the production of clothing & footwear for fashion brands. With more than 30 factories, they have the largest network of textile factories in Portugal. At Friendly Factories we have an entire footwear department called â&#x20AC;&#x153;CHCâ&#x20AC;? located in a different region than our clothing department. This department is dedicated to the sourcing and the production of footwear for Men & Women from sneakers to high heels.
MANUFACTURERS
MACOSMI Macosmi – Fábrica de Calçado, Lda. is a twenty year old shoe company located in Portugal. Quality, being one of the major concerns, we decided to implement a Quality Management System – ISO 9001:2008. Company provides services from shoe development, fabric sourcing and manufacturing. They can produce up to 1100 shoes a day thanks to advanced technology, from the highest quality.
MANUFACTURERS
ON FOOT YOUR WAY Quality, comfort and unique design.Every pair of shoes from On Foot passes through a dozen pairs of hands. This is so much more than just a detail. By working in this way, show after shoe, we are able to ďŹ nely craft the ďŹ nest materials. Our philosophy hasn't changed, even after all these years. Our ceaseless quest for innovation is driven by a single ideal: footwear the combines quality with comfort and a unique design. We are the third generation of our family to be devoted exclusively to the manufacture of footwear. We manufacture all our shoes in Spain, using choice material and hides sourced in Europe. The guarantee of impeccable quality at the best price.There is no better way... And we hope that you feel the same too!
PRODUCTION RESEARCH
152
PORTUGAL CHINA https://www.chi nashoefactory.c om/about-us/
https://www.arlit o.pt Produces quality sneakers
Produces sneakers
CHINA
PORTUGAL
http://www.king maker-footwear. com/en/about/h eritage
http://macosmi. com
Uses EVA Material
Produces lifestyle sneakers
153
DISTRIBUTION CHANNELS
154
CONCEPT STORES (23)
YEAR 1 SEASON 1
BERLIN - VOOSTORE (Y1) BERLIN - COMPACT STORE MILAN - SLAM JAM (Y1) MILAN - 10 CORSO COMO LA - UNDEFEATED (Y1) AMSTERDAM - HUTSPOT (Y1)
DEPARTMENT STORES (8)
ROTTERDAM - HUTSPOT PARIS - CENTRE COMMERCIAL PARIS - MERCI
PARIS - GALERIES LAFAYETTE
BORDEAUX - LE RAYON FRAIS
CHAMPS (Y1)
LYON - POP AND SHOES
NEW YORK - BARNEYS (Y1)
SEOUL - 10 CORSO COMO SEOUL - RARE MARKET
LA - BARNEYS (Y1)
NEW YORK - FIVE STORY
TOKYO - TOKYU (Y1)
LONDON - DOVER STREET MARKET BRUSSELS - HUNTING & COLLECTING
LONDON - SELFRIDGES (Y1)
ANTWERP - GRAANMARKT 13
SEOUL - SHINSEGAE
MADRID - D-ESPACIO
BEIJING - SKP
BARCELONA - MUNICH BANGKOK - SIWILAI HONG KONG - KAPOK DALLAS - FORTY FIVE TEN LONDON - LN-CC
LANE CRAWFORD - SHANGHAI
RETAIL (1) E-COMMERCE
155
CONCEPT STORES (35) BERLIN - VOOSTORE (Y1)
OSLO - YME (Y2)
BERLIN - COMPACT STORE (Y1)
SEOUL - BOONTHESHOP (Y2)
MILAN - SLAM JAM (Y1)
TOKYO - EN ROUTE (Y2)
MILAN - 10 CORSO COMO (Y1)
SHANGHAI - ALTER (Y2)
LA - UNDEFEATED (Y1)
COPENHAGEN - STORM (Y2)
AMSTERDAM - HUTSPOT (Y1)
COPENHAGEN - NAKED (Y2)
ROTTERDAM - HUTSPOT (Y1)
MALMÖ - TRES BIEN (Y2)
PARIS - CENTRE COMMERCIAL (Y1)
AARHUS - STOY (Y2)
PARIS - MERCI (Y1)
ISTANBUL - 290SQM (Y2)
BORDEAUX - LE RAYON FRAIS (Y1)
SAN FRANCISCO - LE POINT (Y2)
LYON - POP AND SHOES (Y1)
NEW YORK - MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH (Y2)
SEOUL - 10 CORSO COMO (Y1) SEOUL - RARE MARKET (Y1) NEW YORK - FIVE STORY (Y1) LONDON - DOVER STREET MARKET (Y1) BRUSSELS - HUNTING & COLLECTING (Y1) ANTWERP - GRAANMARKT 13 (Y1) MADRID - D-ESPACIO (Y1) BARCELONA - MUNICH (Y1) BANGKOK - SIWILAI (Y1) HONG KONG - KAPOK (Y1) DALLAS - FORTY FIVE TEN (Y1) LONDON - LN-CC (Y1)
YEAR 1 SEASON 2 DEPARTMENT STORES (13) PARIS - GALERIES LAFAYETTE CHAMPS (Y1) NEW YORK - BARNEYS (Y1) LA - BARNEYS (Y1) TOKYO - TOKYU (Y1)
RETAIL (1)
LONDON - SELFRIDGES (Y1) SEOUL - SHINSEGAE (Y1) BEIJING - SKP (Y1) LANE CRAWFORD - SHANGHAI (Y1) ROME - LA RINASCENTE MILAN - LA RINASCENTE BERLIN - KADEWE PARIS - LE BON MARCHÉ COPENHAGEN - ILLUM
E-COMMERCE
156
CONCEPT STORES (50) BERLIN - VOOSTORE (Y1)
OSLO - YME (Y2)
BERLIN - COMPACT STORE (Y1)
SEOUL - BOONTHESHOP (Y2)
MILAN - SLAM JAM (Y1)
TOKYO - EN ROUTE (Y2)
DEPARTMENT STORES (19)
MILAN - 10 CORSO COMO (Y1)
SHANGHAI - ALTER (Y2)
PARIS - GALERIES LAFAYETTE CHAMPS (Y1)
LA - UNDEFEATED (Y1)
COPENHAGEN - STORM (Y2)
NEW YORK - BARNEYS (Y1)
AMSTERDAM - HUTSPOT (Y1)
COPENHAGEN - NAKED (Y2)
LA - BARNEYS (Y1)
ROTTERDAM - HUTSPOT (Y1)
MALMÖ - TRES BIEN (Y2)
TOKYO - TOKYU (Y1)
PARIS - CENTRE COMMERCIAL (Y1)
AARHUS - STOY (Y2)
LONDON - SELFRIDGES (Y1)
PARIS - MERCI (Y1)
ISTANBUL - 290SQM (Y2)
SEOUL - SHINSEGAE (Y1)
BORDEAUX - LE RAYON FRAIS (Y1)
SAN FRANCISCO - LE POINT (Y2)
BEIJING - SKP (Y1)
LYON - POP AND SHOES (Y1)
NEW YORK - MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH (Y2)
LANE CRAWFORD - SHANGHAI (Y1)
SEOUL - 10 CORSO COMO (Y1)
SINGAPORE - MANIFESTO
ROME - LA RINASCENTE (Y2)
SEOUL - RARE MARKET (Y1)
VANCOUVER - J2
MILAN - LA RINASCENTE (Y2)
NEW YORK - FIVE STORY (Y1)
VANCOUVER - SECRET LOCATION
BERLIN - KADEWE (Y2)
LONDON - DOVER STREET MARKET (Y1)
BARCELONA - FOOT DISTRICT
PARIS - LE BON MARCHÉ (Y2)
BRUSSELS - HUNTING & COLLECTING (Y1)
MOSCOW - KM20
COPENHAGEN - ILLUM (Y2)
ANTWERP - GRAANMARKT 13 (Y1)
SYDNEY - SNEAKER BOY
STOCKHOLM - NK (Y3)
MADRID - D-ESPACIO (Y1)
….
SAN FRANCISCO - BARNEYS (Y3)
BARCELONA - MUNICH (Y1)
SEATTLE - BARNEYS (Y3)
BANGKOK - SIWILAI (Y1)
MELBOURNE - DAVID JONES (Y3)
HONG KONG - KAPOK (Y1) DALLAS - FORTY FIVE TEN (Y1) LONDON - LN-CC (Y1)
YEAR 2
SYDNEY - DAVID JONES (Y3) BRISBANE - DAVID JONES (Y3)
RETAIL (1) E-COMMERCE
157
CONCEPT STORES
STORM DENMARK
158
Store Regnegade 1, 1110 Copenhagen, Denmark While internationally renowned as one of the leading and most trendsetting lifestyle and fashion stores in Europe, Storm is a lot more than a retail space. With owner Rasmus Storm acting as driver and mediator, it is a conceptual platform where commercial and artistic expressions meet, cultural meanings are exchanged and new concepts evolve. Everyday we strive to evolve and improve the Storm vision to ďŹ nd and share with you our latest and greatest sources of inspiration. Beyond clothing, we carry a large selection of beauty products, music, magazines, books and always feature exciting and inspirational exhibitions in-store.
VOO STORE BERLIN
159
Voo Store is a culturally empowered, creatively driven concept space located in the heart of Berlin Kreuzberg, occupying a charming 300 square meter courtyard space on the ground ďŹ&#x201A;oor of a former locksmiths. The street on which the store sits continues to attribute itself to its unique and progressive approach to contemporary fashion. Translating a personal vision of Berlin through a careful selection of local and international designers and products, Voo Store is an exploration in modern design, visual culture and the future of luxury retail. The store's seasonal presentations are supplemented by a backbone of carryover favourites and classics, with its in-house cafĂŠ, Companion Coffee, further complimenting Voo's retail experience serving a variety of specialty coffee, hand-sourced tea from its personal micro farms, as well as a selection of fresh-baked goods.
160
RODEN GRAY VANCOUVER At Roden Gray, we maintain an ethos that embraces the ever evolving nature of menswear and through that strive for culturally relevant and exclusive brands sourced from around the world. After over ten years in business, our goal remains to offer our clients a well curated selection of brands that are representative of the high range of diversity in modern menswear. From more traditional high fashion aesthetics such as Thom Browne and Dries Van Notens, to postmodern luxury brands like OAMC, Alyx and Readymade, our selection is inspired through a global perspective on what it means to dress well today. We will always be on the lookout for the new while building on the strong foundations established with our core brands.
KM20 MOSCOW
161
Since being founded by Olga Karput back in 2009, Moscow concept store KM20 has grown to become one of Russia’s most significant fashion locations. The store has now unveiled its latest evolution, with a new three story space packed with some of streetwear best brands.The space features a range of objects, installations and furniture that has been designed for the space. Other features of the space include installations from brands such as Heron Preston, Off-White™ and Gosha Rubchisnkiy. For the installations, Vetements has recreated a carpet shop, while Off-White™ designed an ancient temple reminiscent of work by artist Do Ho Suh. As well as installations, the new KM20 mega store features a restaurant with a roof terrace as well as an underground garage that will host temporary exhibitions, product launches and parties.
162
SLAMJAM MILANO Slam jam is a globally-recognized business whose name operates as a seal of approval applied to clothing and goods that represent urban subcultural attitudes. it operates online and physical retail spaces. each slam jam shop is dedicated to offering clothing and attitudes that represent urban subcultures in a space that communicates the style of life from which the product was born. connecting tribes of like-minded people across the world.
163
BOON THE SHOP Boon the Shop, opened its doors in 2000, and established itself as South Korea’s (Seoul) foremost stockist of international designer brands. It’s a shop that is always looking for newness and fresh product, by offering various emerging and lesser-known designers, discovering new international talents and concepts. Located in a futuristic, minimal and clean-lined complex designed by Peter Marino, the vast retail space houses a broad range of lifestyle brands distributed throughout the store’s themed sections.
164
YME OSLO YME is inspired by stores such as Corso Como in Milan, and Dover Street Market in London, and it is a curated universe of fashion, art, interior, and design. The store’s design and interior created by YME Studios in collaboration with Snøettta features an art gallery, a bookstore, a café, and a future roof garden. Art exhibitions are frequently found alongside the merchandise, as are signings, launches, in-store appearances, and fashionable happenings.
165
HUTSPOT AMSTERDAM Hutspot, founded in Amsterdam in 2012, offers an unique combination of pioneering fashion, innovative design and local art. Aiming to curate an accessible platform, they provide young designers and artists an opportunity to sell their goods alongside established brands.
166
UNDEFEATED LOS ANGELES Undefeated is a curated, premium sneaker boutique and apparel brand founded in Los Angeles. Started in 2002, they have now grown to 12 stores in Japan and the US. Undefeated regularly collaborates with brands such as Nike, Adidas, Beats By Dre, Shoyoroll, Maharishi, Asics, the LA Galaxy to produce high quality footwear, electronics, and apparel.
167
DEPARTMENT STORES
168
GALERIES LAFAYETTE High-end French department store Galeries Lafayette opened their doors on Paris's Champs Elysées March 2019. The store is a retail laboratory where we will test new practices. It is a symbol of their ongoing transformation into an omni-channel retail leader. The four-story, 6,500 square metre store, in an Art Deco building sells edgy fashion as well as top-end labels. “We’re seeing interest in smaller retail environments that are more intimate, where it’s easier to create a relationship with the customer and carefully select a mix of up-and-coming and big luxury brands. The idea that bigger is better is not the trend”
169
BARNEYS NEW YORK + LA Barneys New York is a luxury specialty retailer renowned for having the most discerning edit from the world’s top designers, including women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, accessories, shoes, jewelry, cosmetics, fragrances, and gifts for the home. Barneys' signature sense of style is manifested in its creative advertising campaigns, original holiday themes, and celebrated window displays. Today, Barneys New York operates flagship stores in New York City, Beverly Hills, Chicago, Seattle, Boston, San Francisco, Las Vegas along with a luxury online store, Barneys.com, as well as 16 other full price stores and warehouse stores across the United States.
170
TOKYU PLAZA TOKYO Tokyu Plaza is a department store which aims to be a ‘fashion theme park’ where customers can find fashion, streetwear apparel and lifestyle items. They provide plenty of space for their customers to enjoy and spend time in order to relax so that they can take away a new and comfortable way of life every time they visit.
171
DAVID JONES SYDNEY + MELBOURNE + BRISBANE David Jones is Australia’s leading premium retailer. The iconic department store first opened its doors in 1838 with the mission to sell ‘the best and most exclusive goods’ and celebrated its 180th anniversary in 2018. It is also the oldest continuously operating department store in the world still trading under its original name. David Jones offers customers superior products and services across national and international brands in fashion, beauty, food, technology, and homewares. David Jones currently has 45 stores as well as an online store, including its first international store in Wellington New Zealand, and two boutique format stores at Barangaroo Sydney, and James Street Brisbane.
172
SELFRIDGES Selfridges is one of the world's ďŹ nest department stores and dominates the west end of Oxford Street (London). The shop has six ďŹ&#x201A;oors offering 10 acres of shopping space, 11 places to eat, two exhibition halls and countless services. The department store has embraced a selection of brands as an ongoing commitment to support emerging talent, while being aware of being more mindful. The retailer is at the forefront of making sustainable fashion covetable and accessible.
List of Manufacturers in Spain
173
https://www.spanish-footwear-manufacturing.com/?done=done&pcf#focus http://www.santoni.com/en-macchine-sheet.asp?idm=578 http://portugalshoes.com/product-category/shoes/?filter_type-product=132&filter_category-list=938 http://macosmi.com/ http://www.forever.pt/ (eva sole producer)
Info about where to produce: https://www.gq.com/story/nike-adidas-shifting-production-asia https://www.complex.com/sneakers/2017/04/how-to-start-your-own-sneaker-brand https://www.fastcompany.com/40419020/when-made-in-china-means-artful-ethical-and-expert https://otabo.com/pages/factories
(china)