July, August, September | ISSN 1860-9996 | D € 5,00 | USA $ 10,00 | UK £ 6,00 | SKR 70 | NKR 85 | E, F, I € 9,00 | A, B, L, NL € 6,00 | CHF 10 | CNY 100 | HKD 80 | JPY 1400
TO DAY
CItY sERIEs #3 lo n d o n
STW2D NO. 53 | 3 / 2015 | july, August, September
»The City Series #3 london Edition« The significance of London in everything pop culture is undoubted. Attitudes, styles and music had and have a major influence on youth and street culture worldwide. With past features dedicated to James Lavelle, Michael Kopleman, Gareth Skewis, DFace, Hardy Blechman, Crooked Tongues and UDOX, Andy Ellis and Fixedgear London we already acknowledged this significance. For this edition the main focus was to create an eclectic mix of contemporary London styles that represent Non Conformists. That’s also the name of a brand featured in this issue. Further on there are Von Sono, Richie Culver, and Geoff Rowley pop up. Mary Katrantzou, Palace, Barbour, Parlour, Lovenskate among others. Renowned photogra-
pher Gavin Watson opened his archive for us and let us chooses pictures from different decades of his street culture documentation. Cooph pointed out Lewis Freeth and his expressive images of London’s Notting Hill Carnival. There is a report on the Oakley In Residence LDN . The interview with NTS Radio’s Sean McAuliffe describes an example of the importance of music in London. LeGun and its members create exceptional and eccentric art, which also applies for Darren Newman, who is actually from Manchester, so what? Contrasting these urbanized themes, the Norrøna feature is a delightful view on nature and the Norwegian take on supreme outdoor apparel. So please enjoy the panorama.
ST W 2 D 5 2 CITY SERIES #3 LONDON
July, August, September | ISSN 1860-9996 | D € 5,00 | USA $ 10,00 | UK £ 6,00 | SKR 70 | NKR 85 | E, F, I € 9,00 | A, B, L, NL € 6,00 | CHF 10 | CNY 100 | HKD 80 | JPY 1400
Dontstop! martin magielka for stw2d
TO D AY
streetwear today the quarterly magazine for international streetstyles
www.streetwear-today.com
IMPRINT ISSN 1860-9996
National distributor (Germany): Stella Distribution GmbH Frankenstrasse 7 | 20097 Hamburg | www.stella-distribution.de
streetwear today | Alte Hattingerstrasse 11 | D-44789 Bochum | Germany office@stw2d.com www.streetwear-today.com
CITY SERIES #3 LO N D O N
Cover:Photo: Geoff Rowley, Vans
Editor in Chief: Martin Magielka (V.i.S.d.P.) | mm@stw2d.com Editor Berlin: Erik Hüsken | eh@stw2d.com Editor UK | Jason Jules | jj@stw2d.com Editor USA | David Gensler | dg@stw2d.com Editor: Michael Leuffen | hml@stw2d.com Editor: Joachim Offenbacher | jo@stw2d.com Photo Editor: Bastian Hessler | bastian@stw2d.com Fashion Editor: Sara Magielka | sm@stw2d.com Fashion Assistance: Meike Ratsch | mr@stw2d.com Design: Judith Anna Rüther Further contributors in this issue: Nicolette Scharpenberg, Lisa Pardey, MvD, Tobias Wirth, Julia Quante, Kim Keusen, Hannibal Saliba, Sarah Staiger, Sonja Shenouda, Gavin Watson, Lewis Freeth, Anny CK, Christina van Zon, Anne Timper Marketing, Advertising and Publishing: Heavy Traffic UG | Alte Hattingerstrasse 11 | D-44789 Bochum | Germany Martin Magielka | mm@stw2d.com Subscription Service, Retail and Distribution inquiries: Meike Ratsch | mr@stw2d.com
International distributors: Austria: Morawa Pressevertrieb | www.morawa.com Belgium: AMP | www.ampnet.be Brazil: H.B. Revistas | www.hbrevistas.com.br Great Britain (UK): Emblem Group Japan: Kaigai Inc. | www.kaigai-inc.co.jp Netherlands: Betapress B.V. | www.betapress.nl Norway: Listo AB | www.listo.se Spain: Comercial Atheneum | www.atheneum.com Sweden: Svenska Interpress | www.interpress.se Switzerland: Valora AG | www.valora.com Singapore: Basheer Graphic Books | www.basheergraphic.com Thailand: Peng Ha Shieng Co. Ltd. Printed by: Hitzegrad Print, Media & Services, Dortmund Paper by: Igepa Profi Silk We cannot be liable for unrequested material we receive. Submitted images and unrequested material can be used any time. Reprinting of streetwear today – complete or in extracts – only by written agreement. Published features from freelancers must not share the opinion of the editorial staff. Place of jurisdiction is Bochum.
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Š 2015 adidas AG. adidas, the Trefoil logo and the 3-Stripes mark are registered trademarks of the adidas Group.
Š2015 Vans Inc.
THE HEATHROW
DCSHOES.COM
THEH E AT H R O W
The Cons One Star Pro
Made by Eli Reed
Made by you
FHONE
On the eyes of the beholder
FHONE is the mutual brainchild of Stefan Flatscher and Uwe Pinhammer. The two
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longtime friends are proficient with more than 20 years of experience in the frame game. Flatscher is the Head of design and Pinhammer responsible for all things business concerning FHONE . The brand name derives from the F in Flatscher and the H in Pinhammer or more specifically their particular nicknames Flat & Hammer. F H One. Sounds a bit like it was influenced by the name of a HipHop-legend. KRS 1 anybody? State-of-the-art quality frames are built by artisan craftsmen using only the finest materials e. g. Japanese titanium, Italian acetate or calibrated hinges from Austria. Then there is the Fhorn line, where the frames are built from, indeed, horn. German engineering and design combined with the above mentioned ingredients result in exceptional eyewear for men and women that might even become what the two guys presume: »We believe that glasses become a part of your personality.« (Flat & Hammer). Words: EH
BRIGHT BERLIN JULY 8-10, 2015 BOOTH 180
GDS DÜSSELDORF JULY 29-31, 2015 BOOTH HALL 10, A04
INDIVIDUAL STYLE UNITED SPIRIT LOTUS FASHION STUDENT
DRMARTENS.COM
The Grashopper Iconic shoe of the sixties Peter Sapper had the idea to provide comfortable Native Indian footwear to everybody – the brand Sioux was born in 1954 in Walheim, Germany. In 1964 The Grashopper brought Sioux the international break-through with its inimitable and iconic style. 50 years after it came into the world, the Grashopper is not only a distinctive classic but also enhances all kinds of fashion themes as an outstanding shoe. For most people who consider themselves as sneakerheads, the the Wallabee is probably the most popular stand-in choice.
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What almost none of them knows though, is, that German shoe manufacturer Sioux is the originator of the silhouette that became a classic much like a Budapester or Monk Strap, just in a more casual context. Clarks licensed the shoe in 1967 from Sioux and since the term Grashopper was already trademarked in the U.S., they had to come up with another name. Someone should give the Ghostface Killah a call and tell him, that he doesn’t have to customize his favorite shoe style no more: The Grashopper is available in a plethora of colors. Words: EH
the Original grashopper from 1964
OF COURSE WE FOLLOW PAT T E R N S
BREAKING THEM
PRINTFRENZY SHORTS. DISRUPTIVE DESIGNS FOR DISRUPTIVE PEOPLE.
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DC shoes x Ben Davis Skating Gorilla Founded in San Francisco, Ben Davis, the US work clothing line has been making high-quality durable wear since 1935. Their shape and quality has not changed in 80 years. Ben Davis became known in street-culture due to the fact that they were sold in X-Large (brand) stores in Los Angeles and San Francisco in the early 90 ies. Gangster rap pioneers N. W. A. sporting all black Ben Davis outfits as some sort of uniform, also helped to detach the brand from its working gear context and made it popular among street gear aficionados. The logo of the »smiling gorilla« influenced the X-Large logo and Fuct also paid homage to the gorilla in one way or another. The DC collaboration with Ben Davis is a real zinger, featuring two t-shirts, a chambray work shirt, a canvas jacket and a pair of Trase skateshoes. The capsule collection is rounded of by two trucker caps and two watch caps, bearing the motto of Ben Davis: Plenty Tough. words: EH
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www.dcshoes.com www.bendavis.com
Esther Perbandt x bagjack
A match made in Berlin
»Messenger goes sophisticated! That was the idea behind my cooperation with Bagjack.« Esther Perbandt
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Berlin avantgarde-fashion designer Esther Perbandt joined forces with Berlin bag engineer Pe, head of bagjack, to design a carrying device that combines the androgyny of Esther’s design philosophy with Pe’s technical approach. Waxed cotton body, leather bottom and external front pocket, the tried and tested 3-Point-Strap-System plus unbreakable Austrialpin buckles care for exacting strength, Esther’s design provides the outstanding look. The result is a beautiful messenger bag that is a perfect companion for every occasion, from riding a bike to a visit at the opera. The bags will be handmade in Berlin, production run will be limited, just so you know. estherperbandt.com www.bagjack.com
Cooph apparel for photographers
Cooph = Cooperative of photography. Cooph proclaims individualism, expression and sincerity. Their community focused online photo magazine exposes diverse approaches in photography, featuring a wide range of talented photographers and their projects. Cooph also offers a refined clothing line, comprising printed t-shirts and hoodies as well as a selection of button down shirts, leather gloves and headwear. Their main gem is the range of apparel specially designed by photographers for photographers, incorporating useful features such as buttons for folding hoodies into a camera wrap/pillow, lens cleaning cloth, sewn to inside of the shirts or double pockets to safely stash your ex change lens, to place their caps, among others. words: EH B r a n d — 20 —
www.cooph.com
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»In this modern era of photographic opportunity, COOPH is about recognizing and promoting outstanding visions from within the community and endeavor to support photographers in breaking creative boundaries. COOPH believes photography is a vehicle for documentation and expression, especially when interacting with our environment and interpreting life around us.«
cooph
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STW2D NO. 53 iii 2015 july, AuguST, SepTember 003 012 014 016 018 020 022 024 034 036 038 040 042 044 046 056 064 — 22 —
»THE CITy SERIES #3 LONDON EDITION« FHONE GRASSHOPPER DCSHOES & BEN DAVIS BAGJACK & ESTHER PERBANDT COOPH THIS PAGE GEOFF ROWLEy BEN SHERMAN DCSHOES & DPM PALACE & ADIDAS SKATEBOARDING ADIDAS ORIGINAL & MARy KATRANTZOU FRED PERRy & AMy WINEHOUSE FOUNDATION & CENTRAL SAINT MARTIN BARBOUR & WHITE MOUNTAINEERING My BLOCK By TOBIAS WIRTH & JULIA QUANTE OAKLEy ONE PASSION, OAKLEy IN RESIDENCE: LONDON K1X & LEE & RICHIE CULVER
070 074 076 086 094 100 110 120 132 138 150 160 162 172 178
PARLOUR SKATE SHOP LOVENSKATE LONDON E13JQ 9.00PM By HANNIBAL SALIBA & SARAH STAIGER NON CONFORMIST VON SONO WILD SWIMMING By LISA PARDEy & SARA MAGIELKA GAVIN WATSON DAREN NEWMAN LEGUN LEWIS FREETH WEST END GIRL By ANNy CK & CHRISTINA VAN ZON GEORGIA NTS RADIO & SEAN MCAULIFFE NORRONA LAST PAGE | SUBSCRIPTION
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words: Joachim Offenbacher
GEOFF ROWLEY keep working hard Geoff Rowley is one of the Skateboarders, who takes his profession really serious. He is well known for testing out huge technical tricks and his go-for-broke style. A legend in what he did but also does. He is staying with his longtime shoe sponsor Vans since 1999 and as durability is needed for his skateboarding, he has the same requirements when it comes to clothes and shoes. If such a straight demand meets the right resources, the great result is visible in terms of his brand new Signature Collection including Footwear and Apparel that globally launches just now in summer 2015. Go check your local Vans dealer to get convinced by the look and feel of these pearls designed by a real legend in Skateboarding. But first read through what it is all about.
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Busy with the launch of your first footwear and apparel launch, »Built Rowley Strong«, how many miles did you travel the last two weeks? Next stops? With the launch of the Vans Propeller skate video, we toured across the whole world nonstop for the last few weeks, a different country every single night. I then went straight into the apparel launch, so in total I was home for six days in almost four weeks.
After so many years with Vans as a shoe sponsor it was to some extent a logical consequence to come along one day with a clothing collection, especially since you parted ways with Volcom. How did things came together to let you decide on starting it and how you have been involved since then? I always had a very healthy working relationship within Vans, especially in footwear design, so it was a logical progression to continue that with apparel once the opportunity arose. I’ve known Luciano Mor (head of Men’s Apparel) since he took over that position. I have always respected his abilities and knew I could work well with him. I viewed my role as connecting both the footwear department and apparel department from a merchandise and design standpoint. But it was also the first real opportunity to design both products concurrently, something that I enjoyed thoroughly. I’ve been involved every step of the way, from concept to finished product.
What are your requirements when it comes to workwear, if we consider Skateboarding as »work«? Practical design and fabrics that serve a purpose for skateboarding. Durability, breathability, fit and function are the key elements.
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»Va n s – B u i lt st r o n g s i n c e ’6 6 . B u i lt [ R ow l e y ] St r o n g s i n c e ’ 9 9. «
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»W e j u s t n e e d to f i g u r e o u t a l l t h at r a i n a n d i t ’ d b e t h e b e s t p l ac e i n t h e wo r l d. «
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A single shoe sponsor for 15 years means a lot of trust, support and loyalty from both sides. For which reasons you stayed so long and what motivates you to even expand this relationship with a collection line? I would have to say that it is the relationships, product, history and support that Vans gives me. I’m getting a kick out of helping the apparel product get some more traction. Vans is known predominantly for footwear but we have some extremely talented designers and people in the Apparel department that are ready to shine. This was definitely a motivating factor and great opportunity for myself. I’m confident the growth is going to continue and we are going to lure in more fresh designers. I can’t wait to work on denim next!
As our current issue of Streetwear Today is dedicated to London, which thoughts and memories come to your head while thinking of the city? My earliest experience and memories are getting off the train at London Euston on a cold winter night, heading to South Bank in wind and rain and then skating under cover with no one there but bums and drug addicts. I waited and skated for hours before my friends showed up. For a 15-year-old kid, it was pretty grimy and dangerous, but being from Liverpool it was nothing that I hadn’t seen before.
5 things to mention about London? History, architecture, character, union jacks and southern slang.
Why does the Skateboarding or more generally the Street Culture need more activists like the guys from Long Live Southbank? Because without people like that our history and culture would get swallowed up by so-called »progress«. Money talks but direct action can have a larger impact, if it’s done respectfully and professionally. The people at Long Live Southbank are a great example of that.
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Taking a closer look at the “Vans [Rowley] Solos”, we can see the influence from the original ERA model taken as a basis in order to build it up with features like the VANS DURAPCAP together with the ULTRACUSH HD polyurethane cushioning especially for Geoff’s Skateboarding purposes. Not to forget the Vans ORIGINAL WAFFLE outsole for the right grip to stay on. Coming to his first signature Apparel line, customers will find a wide range of products to fit on from the knees up to the head, STURDY STRECH twill GR chinos, GR shirt and shirt jacket, tees featuring Vans Wicked Dry and a 6-panel snapback cap. Feel comfortable.
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vanS SoloS, deSigned by rowley
» I s aw m y b i r t h p l ac e l i k e m ys e l f a s a b e n e f i t, n ot a h i n d r a n c e . I t a l s o h e l p e d t h at I wa s f r om E n g l a n d a n d n ot f r om a n ot h e r co u n t ry. Am e r i c a n s t e n d to l i k e u s E n g l i s h m e n f o r s om e r e a s o n . « G eoff R owle y
How is your relationship to London? It’s good. I have some great memories of skating around the city.
Your influence among others coming originally out of the English Skateboarding scene helped a lot over the years to bring England and its Skateboarders on the radar of the international Skateboarding circus, whether its athlete, spot or business. How do you feel about that fact? It’s humbling. I remember what it felt like to be considered an outsider, an Englishman trying to make his way in the California skate scene. It wasn’t easy. There were definitely barriers. I think essentially all the Flip dudes who moved stateside at that time played a huge role in making professional skateboarding more international. Prior to that time, guys would come from all over the world to the States, turn pro and not really be known for the place they were born. We essentially embraced the United States, but stayed true to the place of our birth. Filming video parts all over the world and helping to expose that »international« scene – until that period, those areas didn’t get the same exposure. I saw my birthplace like myself as a benefit, not a hindrance. It also helped that I was from England and not from another country. Americans tend to like us Englishmen for some reason. Haha.
How much time during the year you spend in England, especially your hometown Liverpool? I get home once or twice a year, sometimes more. I’m almost always up in Liverpool; the only time I’m down in London is to skate. The rest of the time, I’m hanging with family and friends up in Liverpool. I miss the humor, the banter, sarcasm and dry wit. England is the best place in the world socially. We just need to figure out all that rain and it’d be the best place in the world.
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Ben Sherman 52 years of British Style Culture L O N D O N L I N E S — 34 —
Born as Arthur Benjamin Sugarman in Brighton, 1925, he moved to US with the age of 20 years. It was also while in America when applying for citizenship, that Arthur decided to change his name. Ben is what his family called him and Sherman was a surname that he felt was a good, solid, strong American name. Ben Sherman was born. Unfortunately his mother who lived back in England became very ill, so he quit his job and relocated the family back home to Brighton. Without a job, Ben Sherman decided to use his clothing manufacturing experience and rented a factory in Bedford Square, Brighton. In 1963 he was ready to launch the first Ben Sherman shirt. The Ben Sherman shirt became an Icon and many youth culture movements have adopted the Brand’s styles. Teds, Mods, Skins, the Ska or Brit Pop movement, the Ben Sherman shirts have been part of every style movement of the past 5 decades. So for more than 50 years it sticks to its roots and the collections still feature this distinguished »very British« impression, to be exact 52 years of British Style Culture. Here you get to see parts of their 2015 Fall / Winter line. www.bensherman.com
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DC shoes goes Camo Skatewear in disguise
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DCshoes tasked DPM-Studio (DPM is an abbreviation for Disruptive Pattern Material) with the design of a camouflage pattern for a capsule collection. DPM is Hardy Blechmann’s (of Maharishi fame) London based studio for design commissions to create bespoke camouflage patterns. DPM also conducts research on camouflage in nature and the military, as well as its uses within contemporary art and design. DPM
aims to detach camouflage from its military associations and promotes its natural roots and artistic influences. Blechmann, a luminary in all things camouflage, is the author of »DPM: Disruptive Pattern Material« a 944 page encyclopedia of camouflage containing over 6,000 images. It’s the reference book when it comes to questions concerning everything camo. Words: EH
dpm-studio.com dcshoes.com
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Adidas x Palace London skate style phenomenon along with German sportswear giant The adidas x Palace collaboration enters the next level. Ever since Palace appeared in the game they cause ruckus with their new skate apparel vibe and their »We don’t give a fuck« attitude. Garments carrying their triangle logo only appear on the shelves of the best skate-stores worldwide and gained some sort of cult following. The folks behind the adidas originals Brand had the right instinct to get a partner with a soft spot for vintage sportswear on board. The signature tracksuits and soccer tricots with a 90ies terrace feel are now accompanied by a collection of sneakers. The Palace Pro sneaker recalls one of Adidas’ most popular silhouettes: the Gazelle. The footwear is made of adi’s finest components and materials polished with Palace’s distinctive style. The Pro Primeknit and the Pro Trainer designed by Palace come in Primeknit material or in perforated leather upper and have the protecting heel cage as a functional add-on. Palace chose their monochromatic theme, in white, greyscale, and black matching the apparel goods, for the color ways. The Palace branding appears with British understatement only small on the tongue and insole, while the three stripes clearly register the originator.
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www.adidas.com www.palaceskateboards.com
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Adidas Originals & Mary Katrantzou distilling the essence of her graphic vision
Born in Athens in 1983, Mary Katrantzou had an interior designer mother and a father who worked in textile design. Actually some perfect requirements for Mary to step into the same game. Having developed an appreciation of applied design from an early age, she moved to America to study for a BA in Architecture at the Rhode Island school of design, before transferring to Central Saint Martins in London to complete her BA degree in textile design. She moved to London and when studying at Central Saint Martin’s, she became interested in the way that printed textiles can change the shape of a woman’s body, went on to graduate in MA Fashion from Central Saint Martins with distinction. Katrantzou’s graduating show in 2008 mapped out her famous signature style. From the beginning her work has been about perception and perspective and what started with 15 prestigious retailer including Browns, Joyce and Colette and she now boasts over 250 stores worldwide. Now Mary Katrantzou has teamed up with the adidas Originals brand to create a fresh and colorful capsule collection of apparel and footwear emblazoned in the designer’s iconic, hypercolor, kaleidoscopic patterns, distilling the essence of her graphic vision.
www.marykatrantzou.com www.adidas.com
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Fred Perry & Amy Winehouse foundation & Central Saint Martin
A legacy of creativity continues This project combines some interesting partners. We are all familiar with the Fred Perry Brand, and of course we love the sound and style of Amy Winehouse. R. I. P. Hopefully most of you are also familiar with London’s Central Saint Martin. It is an arts school that has produced an incredible list of creative luminaries such as John Galliano, MIA, PJ Harvey, Mary Katrantzou and Ricardo Tisci, just to name some. In a wide ambitious project, 150 fashion and textiles students from Central Saint Martin have been challenged to redesign and work creatively with the iconic Fred Perry Shirts. What started with Amy Winehouse herself in 2010, when she worked on some own
designed pieces for the Fred Perry brand, results now in a collaboration project with the Amy Winehouse Foundation. But in the end, only four of the best designs from the CSM students were chosen as they best captured the brands ethos and values. From the deep pluralism of the UK, the individual designers were inspired by the look of rude boy, punk, rave subcultures, and have interpreted their ideas of cultural codes onto the limited edition pieces. The four students are Hinako Nakazawa, Ella Marsch, Hana Jung and Esme Famewo and the profits of the sale of these individual pieces will be donated to Amy Winehouse’s charity that helps youths in need.
The pieces, that Amy Winehouse designed for the Fred Perry brand in 2010
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www.amywinehousefoundation.org www.arts.ac.uk/csm www.fredperry.com
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The work of Hana Jung, student of Central Saint Martin
The work of Hinako Nakazawa, student of Central Saint Martin
The work of Ella Marsch, student of Central Saint Martin
The work of Esme Famewo, student of Central Saint Martin
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Barbour x White Mountaineering B r i t ishness w i t h a Ja pa nese t w is t
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Barbour founded in 1894 is a British tradition company and originator of waxed cotton motorcycling suits and jackets. Barbour is best known for making waterproof and outdoor clothing, often associated with the sport of hunting. Their signature jacket is often referred to as »Barbour jacket«. White Mountaineering is a Tokyo-based clothing company, that creates rugged, heritage- and outdoors-inspired pieces. Founder Yosuke Aizawa worked as design assistant for Junya Watanabe at Comme des Garçons before he started White Mountaineering in 2006. His concept in terms of clothes is: ›One, design. Two, utility. Three, technology. The imagination to fuse these elements together.‹
The two companies merged for a capsule collection consisting of a blend of heritage classic designs with a modern, utilitarian take. The joint venture features a wave print motif, inspired by Barbour's coastal home in South Shields, with the characteristic Barbour-lighthouse in a stormy North Sea, at the same time forming a wave camouflage print, resembling Hokusai’s »The Great Wave off Kanagawa«. Integrating functional design and a big chunk of street style result in bona fide outdoor looks with high fashion appeal. Words: EH
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my block! Photographer Tobias Wirth Fashion Stylist Julia Quante (PerfectProps) Hair & Make-Up artist Kim Keusen Models Vinayak (M4 Models) & MARION (NATHALIE MODELS PARIS)
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Jacket Edwin Top & Bra American Apparel Flap Trousers Reality Studio Shoes CAT
He Shirt Ben Sherman Sweater Levi’s Made & Crafted Pants Henrik Vibskov Shoes adidas Originals Socks Stance She Dress and bag Fred Perry Top under Dress Antonia Goy Sweater around the hips Barbour Shoes Dr. Martens
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Hat Reality Studio Jacket Tiger of Sweden Sweater Barbour s h o o t — 50 —
Pants Levi’s
She
He
Sweater Bershka
Coat Soulland
Dress Stine Goya
Shirt Minimum
Scarf Wood Wood
Pullover Carhartt Pants Mavi
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Dress Stills Perforated Shirt By Malene Birger Vest Dress Fonnesbech Vest Uniqlo
Tracksuit adidas Originals Polo shirt Ben Sherman Shoes adidas Originals
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T-Shirt American Apparel Long shirt Weekday Sweat pants Carhartt Shoes Dr. Martens
He Pullover Minimum Polo shirt Ben Sherman Pants Weekday Shoes CAT She Shirt and Culottes Minimum Jacket Fred Perry
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Oakley in Residence: London One Obsession
The »ONE OBSESSION« campaign continues and has reached the next level after the first pop-up event in Los Angeles dedicated to the Skateboarding culture earlier in spring 2015. Oakley organized a pop-up event dedicated to the Skateboarding culture earlier in spring 2015 that took place in Los Angeles – Now the Oakley »ONE OBSESSION« campaign continues and has reached the next destination: London. This time Oakley approached the cycling community with the opening of a creative Workshop space in London, offering a wide range of activities such as exhibitions, weekly urban rides and bike maintenance workshops. Located at Exmouth Market, the company collaborates during their »Oakley in Residence« stay from mid May to August 2015 with a fine selected bunch of cycling enthusiasts from London. This »OIR« installation features the London Bike Kitchen, Spoke LDN, East London Fixed, Sea Bass Cycles, Spoke, BMX Collective and the Bicycle Film Festival to name a few. During the opening event we took the chance to dive deeper into the “Oakley in Residence” concept. This with Tom Cartmale, Oakley’s Global Brand Communication Director. Next to him we also raised some questions to Ryan Calilung Oakley’s Director of Concept Development and Oakley Research & Development department. Here the topics were about their collaboration with British cyclist Mark Cavendish resulting in the launch of the »Jawbreaker« their fresh out the box thermonuclear protection disguised as sunglasses. But first we want to know more from Tom. Which Tom?
TOM CARTMALE, Oakley’s Global Brand Communication Director on »Oakley in Residence: London« Important things we should know about you, Tom? I joined Oakley 10 years ago in the UK office and am now based out of the Southern California headquarters as Oakley’s Global Brand Communications Director. My goal is to ensure that Oakley continues to evolve creatively and connect with consumers in new, authentic and relevant ways – in sport and culture. My project scope spans major initiatives like the Olympic Games, Tour de France and the One Obsession global brand campaign, through to alternative marketing projects – concept spaces, media partnerships and collaborations with athletes, artists, designers and filmmakers. And I own a sausage dog called Colin. Contribution of the »Oakley in Residence: London« installation to the streetwear culture? Oakley’s history in cycling is well documented. For more than 20 years, Oakley has supported and collaborated with some of the most renowned, talented and influential names in the world of bikes. Across road-cycling, cyclocross, mountain-bike and BMX, the brand’s presence has been noticeable on top of nearly every podium throughout the globe over the years. The performance-focused nature of cycling has always been at the heart of the revolutionary new designs from the Eyeshade that Greg Lemond (USA) wore in the 1986 Tour de France to the 2015 Jawbreaker which was co-created by sprinting super star Mark Cavendish (UK). Away from cycling’s elite performance sector,
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Oakley has also been a major influencer in the culture of cycling. Oakley’s earliest eyewear styles, the Eyeshade, Razor Blade and Frogskins, were seen as major stylepieces for the urban-culture scene. With the addition of Oakley in Residence: London we hope to help fuel and celebrate this culture and encourage others to explore what it has to offer. Name the main idea of the campaign in 3 aspects. Oakley in Residence: London is: a cycling destination and a space for creative collaboration for likeminded people to gather and celebrate their shared passion in cycling, it’s free and open to the public What makes this campaign unique in your eyes and what is important to make such a campaign a success story? A sport is only as strong as the community that supports it, and that community is built on a shared obsession of the sport. In February, Oakley launched a global movement, ONE OBSESSION , inviting people to join the conversation and share their passion in sport through #LiveYours. Oakley in Residence is a physical manifestation of the movement, giving the London cycling community a place to come together, live out their passions and turn their ideas into reality. Strategy of the marketing. Oakley in Residence: London is the second of three Oakley in Residence brand hubs designed to fuel passion rooted in sport. The hubs are part of the brands global ONE OBSESSION campaign that invites people around the world to join the #LiveYours movement, share their passion and inspire others. Criteria’s for picking the cities, locations and especially the cultures and sports? Every creator has a special place where they are at one with their obsession. Whether that be a remote mountain peak, backyard trail, secret surf spot or suburban garage. Los Angeles and London are highly populated, key inspirational and influential markets in their respective sports (skateboarding and cycling) that provide additional accessibility for communities to engage with experiences facilitated by the brand.
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As this is our London city issue, please describe shortly why you picked cycling and tell us about your cooperation in place. Give us a brief insight from the idea to the realization. Home of some of the most active, inspiring, creative individuals on the planet, London is a megacity with a strong community of cyclists, offering them the perfect environment to live their lifestyle and celebrate their obsession for sports. The culture of urban cycling is thriving here and setting-trends, influencing other young urban cyclists in this city and far beyond. According to the Transport
for London in February, cycling levels are the highest since records began in 2000 and forecast a 12% increase from the previous year. Exmouth Market is also a vibrant and established destination for urban cyclists, offering two high-end bike shops, a range of restaurants and bars, and an outdoor food market on Thursdays and Fridays. The semi-pedestrianized nature of the street makes it a welcoming area for cyclists and nurtures the outdoor culture in the summer. Exmouth Market is in the heart of Clerkenwell, home to a cluster of architects, digital agencies, fashion designers and design companies. 3 points that inspire you about London The eclectic communities that live side by side in the city. The creative spirit and unique style of Londoners. The variety and randomness of the cultural experiences at your fingertips. 3 points you like about London The Oakley office space in Shoreditch & the Redchurch St area in general. Especially All Press coffee, Aesop and Labor & Wait household goods. How cycling, craft coffee and inspired design have come together. Favorite coffee shops and concept spaces include Birdhouse, Tokyo Bike and Peloton, but especially Oakley in Residence! The green and tranquil spaces in the middle of urban chaos, from Wandsworth Common to St James Park. Next stops of the OIR voyage? Next stop is Sydney, Australia. How do you draw the line between Streetwear culture/ lifestyle and sports/functionality? There is a lot of crossover and both inspire the other. What is required from your side to make it success stories, which aspects do you have to take care of? I have oversight of everything from location and spatial design to consumer experience and partner programming. Success for this project is reliant on all these elements working in harmony, and creating an overall experience and multi-purpose space that educates, entertains and inspires visitors – uniting them through a shared love of cycling and the artistic culture that surrounds it. How do you ensure to leave a footprint that will last within the cultures and the cities after your campaign? The OIR spaces are physical celebrations of long-standing partnerships that Oakley has established over the years in different sport cultures. We will continue to create experiences, host events and run programs with these partners, as well as new collaborators, long after the pop-up spaces close their doors and reopen in another city or district. Thank you!
www.oakley.com/in-residence #LiveYours #InResidence
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Oakley One Obsession campaign featuring Chas Christiansen
Ryan Calilung
Director of Concept Development, Oakley R&D Oakley, Inc.
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Okay let’s start here with a few insides On Ryan and Oakley. A transplant from the epicenter of the automotive industry, Detroit, Mr. Calilung’s drive to create earned him a Mechanical Engineering degree from the General Motors Institute with a specialization in Plastic Product Design. Over the span of his career, he has designed and built components for well-known car brands, bicycles and recreational watercraft. In 2007, Ryan joined Oakley as one of the mad scientists on the team that developed Oakley’s first mechanical lens interchange technology, Switchlock™. This technology enables the user to quickly and easily swap out lenses. By changing lenses, the wearer can balance light transmission, reduce glare, improve depth perception and color recognition based on their environment or activity. The revolutionary design also suspends the lenses so that any stress on the frame does not distort the lens, which would compromise optics. With ordinary frames, flexing c an change the surface contours of the lenses, causing optical distortion. The first sport performance frame with Switchlock technology, the Oakley Jawbone, debuted in 2008 during the Tour de France, worn by Thor Hushovd. Hushovd relied on Oakley’s Switchlock technology to perform, winning the Second Stage. Since the launch of Oakley’s Jawbone, Ryan was also on the concept team for the next evolution of Switchlock technology performance eyewear including Radarlock, Airbrake, Fast Jacket and Jawbreaker.
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Please tell us how the Jawbreaker project evolved. Jawbreaker started from a conversation with Mark Cavendish. Mark described eyewear as »armor for speed«, that image really grabbed us – the thought of armor, protection, a shield. A toric shield lens was the first extension of that; we have been perfecting the optics of the toric lens for 40 years. By capturing that toric lens in a full orbit frame, we created the ultimate experience in protection and vision. In what way was your automotive experience helpful for the development of the Jawbreaker? One of the big objectives of Automotive design is the integration of Form and Function – packaging of mechanical systems into a sculptural form. At Oakley, we have to take that idea one step further because we have so little volume to work with. A mechanical system, like the gimbal, has to become a sculptural element visible to the world. It’s a huge challenge for both industrial designers and engineers. How do you make a rigid technical requirement beautiful? In the end it is just »good design«, but relies on a great collaboration between the disciplines, Science as Art, and Art elevated to a Science. How accrued the name – Jawbreaker? The original technical concept for SwitchLock was known as »the broken orbit«, you would »break« the orbit to allow for removal of this tightly held lens. The lower orbit with the gimbal always resembled a part of the human face, so the term jaw was a natural technical slang from the engineering team. We brought the terms together one day, and the name Jawbreaker was born! Describe the cooperation with Mark Cavendish. Why did you choose him? The idea of Jawbreaker was inspired by professional cyclist Mark Cavendish. Whether it’s measuring his own wattage output, pinpointing his drag coefficiency in a state-of-the-art wind tunnel, or adjusting his seat position by a fraction of a millimeter, he leaves nothing to chance in his preparation. This obsession led to a unique collaboration with Oakley. Is the jawbreaker a completely new developed product or were parts of it taken out of the archive? Completely new. 3 aspects that would describe the uniqueness of the jawbreaker It’s extended field of view, ventilation and protection. Athletes will appreciate the functionalities of the Jawbreaker. What will the average consumer gain? Jawbreaker has a level of vision and protection without compromise, beyond what the consumer has seen before. It’s a statement piece with real performance benefits. Fashion vs. function and sport vs. lifestyle. How is the weighting in terms of the jawbreaker and the customer group? We approached the solution as fashion / form is function, and both drove each other. The technology is invisible and the style looks fast – shield/armour for speed. Jawbreaker is the highest expression of eyewear for cycling. And while Jawbreaker was inspired by cycling, the functional benefits are needed in many other activities. The science we used to quantify the benefits of Protection, Field of View and Ventilation have been incorporated into an entire family of performance products, such as Radar EV and Flak 2.0. L O N D O N B R A N D — 62 —
Contribution when it comes to topics like sustainability and environmental consciousness, especially due to the fact that your athletes use this environment. There is a responsibility to make an enduring and durable product. Jawbreaker is not a disposable fast fashion piece. Jawbreaker was designed to be an essential piece of gear for cycling, to be indispensable and used every time you ride. The quality of design, cost of materials, effort to manufacture is such that Jawbreaker will last for many years of cycling.
Thank you Ryan.
Oakley One Obsession campaign featuring Mark Cavendish
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Mark Cavendish & Ryan Calilung at work
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K1X & Lee meet Richie Culver!
The exploratory and improvisational approach to making art we find in Richie Culver’s growing oeuvre can be seen as an outcome of the tensions between binary cultural and social opposites — provincial vs. cosmopolitan; cash-strapped vs. affluent; art museum highs vs. street-cultural lows. In what seems an examination of ones experience and inner self, the material outcome of this attitude to creativity can take any one of a range of forms, from gritty documentary photography (much of it made during a period working on a trailer park) to urban bricolage, from primitively executed drawings and paintings through to video. Highly style conscious and yet pragmatic, there is a kind of punk aesthetic at work in Culver’s approach both to art-making and to exhibiting! Richie Culvers work embodies a level of honesty and vulnerability and he has what a lot of young artists today strive for – the artist lifestyle. This includes more than just exhibitions in established galleries but those other things like clothing collaboration with brands like TOPMAN, Eastpak and Etre Cecile.
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The inspiration of the jackets explained by Richie Culver: »When I was aware that I would be working on Denim jackets, it became a kind of no brainer for me. My initial thought was to build them up with patches and make them look as natural as possible. As far as influences go, id say that Crusty›s were at the forefront of my mind when making them. Most of the Art on the back of each piece is actually linked to some of my Tattoos. I wouldn›t say there is a running theme between each jacket, each piece has there own identity although I’d say they do all w ork together as in none of them stands out. That was very important to me. Much of the wording on each patch is just thoughts & some nods to films I watched while I was growing up. As this collab will be coming out in the summer it only seemed right that I take the sleeves of a few of them. Of course there are some religious themes to be seen also.«
Richie Culver
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The Northern English town of Hull is where Culver grew up. At 19 years of age he moved to London. Almost ten years later, after a spell in New York, he returned to London and got what could be seen as his break when he had a collage of sprinter Jessie Owens with the words »Have you ever really loved anyone?« pasted in the center, exhibited at Tate Modern in London in May 2010. His highly eclectic artwork is about self–expression in both image and text form and, although his subject matter is already heavily explored in art – death, eroticism, impassioned love, family – there is a true sense that Culver is showing us these images and words as an authentic exploration of his creativity. His paintings, drawings and photography are the outpourings of personal relationships and connections to place. Edgy and at times unsettling, it is artwork that stimulates your senses. In 2011 London’s Concept Store LN-CC presented Culvers second solo exhibit, »Too Dark One Light«. Culver’s latest exhibition in 2013 took place at Skur 2 Gallery in Stavanger, Norway. The solo show was titled »The Four Letter Word« and featured photographic works comprised of quadruple collaged layers. In the beginning of 2014 Richie Culvers Collaboration with Être Cecile was launched. During the summer in that year he attended an art residency at MAD Agency in Paris. Later, in September 2014 his Collaboration with TOPMAN was launched and a great success. Now we see the light of his latest conceptual work in collaboration with Munich’s K1X Brand and the denim specialist LEE . A great Mix resulting in great images and styles.
#richieculver www.k1x.com www.lee.com
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Parlour Skate Shop London London has some cool skate stores, for sure. This time we feature Parlour Skate Store, situated in the East End of London. It also opens up onto London’s finest, Mile-End Skatepark. Next to a wide range 'of decks, hardgoods, selected clothes and footwear brands, they house one of only 3 free indoor skateboard facilities in London with a saucy 4 foot mini-ramp a micro mini-ramp, flat bank and more. We talked to Bryce Campbell the co-owner of Parlour Skateshop about skateboarding in London and whatnot.
Bryce, give us a short history lesson of your shop? Who is involved? Anyone who has an interest in skateboarding really, more specifically my business partner (Carl Richardson) and myself co own it and we have casual staff that lend hands at times. We also have a skate team who form part of the heart.
What’s the story behind the name »Parlour«? Parlour (Noun) – a room in a public building for receiving guests. Chat, chill and maybe shop.
How is the Skate Scene in London? The London scene is vast with pockets of »micro-scenes« dotted about, centrally; there is a more core scene where everyone »kinda« knows each other. London is generally on the hit lists for brand activations so there is often a healthy amount of events going on here, free beer and all that jazz. It’s progressive for lack of a better term, the city architecture is very old meaning skateboarding in the capital has it’s own unique style, although not the same - it can be liken to that of East coast America styles, more raw, more creative. It’s the best!
How is the portion of your customer group in terms of Skate-boarders / non Skateboarders? We have two brick and mortar stores, the first situated on one of London’s most frequented skateparks, Mile End skatepark, this shop is in a fairly derelict and isolated borough, I can probably portray the footfall received in any given year on one hand – it’s just! skateboarders. Our newest doors in Shoreditch, a vibrant east London enclave that is considered relatively current has a divide of skate / no-skate that is around 50 % but within the 50 % no-skate bracket around 35 % are either »I-used-to-skate« or a passive skateboarder e. g. – I like the look of it but I don’t do it.
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»Our team is our family and are at the fore-front of everything we do, Shaun Witherup, Chris Oliver, Madars Apse, Jak Pietryga , Josh Cox, Joe Sivell , Felipe Dal Cin, Daniel West (Big Dave), Froby, Dan Tomlinson, Peter Buckley & Saimon De Oliveira are consistently repping the name globally. Owned, run and renowned by skateboarders.«
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“Skateboarding is our life, love and job. We take this shit way to seriously here at Parlour, we don’t eat, sleep or shit unless it’s skate related, evidently we needed somewhere to harness this passion so it made complete sense to establish a place where shredstick enthusiasts could gather and be. We are NOT JUST! a shop, store or retailer, but a house, home, a family.”
The criteria’s for choosing your brand portfolio? Generally anything that resonates well with us, it has to exist within skateboarding, ethos matters too.
How to survive in the online jungle of ecommerce these days? Time will tell as things are changing so fast for retail that the idea of infinite trading is arbitrary.
Online business vs. face-to-face business? Skateboard retailing has always been about the physical relationships made, the experience of touching something in your hands always outweighs the sense of sight.
How would you convince a customer to buy in your shop instead of picking the stuff online 24–7? We trick them by holding events in-store so they by default form a personal relationship with the shop/staff. Once you form that physical relationship your ’in for life.
Any measures to ensure customer loyalty? Straight talk seems to work.
What’s going on in London these days? What’s hot and what’s not? I can only comment on skateboarding but in skateboarding »what’s hot« is subjective so my personal opinion may not give clear indication of trends etc., Palace kills.
Highly recommended (Skate) spots in London? Cat alleys a jam, Canada water is a new thing (bit glossy for me but worth a visit), Southbank for the nostalgia and scene props, Mile end if skateparks are your poison but if you want the »Real London experience« go to Bank station, pick an alleyway and get lost.
5 reasons to visit London? Alleyways, brick, culture, street beers and festivals (United kingdom wide)
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Words: Joachim Offenbacher
www.parlourskatestore.co.uk
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Stu Smith, lovenskate – from A to Z For a tea with Stu Smith, mastermind from Lovenskate London. A: Apples & Pears (Plenty of em, some have Rails too) B: Brixton Beach C: Carhartt … D: Drink Tea get Rad … E: East London Street spots F: From Brixton to Bounds Green – skateboarding every stop G: Gillette Square H: House of Vans / Harrow I: In my mind, the Greatest city on earth! J: Jellied Eels – don’t knock em til you’ve tried em – then knock em! K: Kings Cross – new spot (see X) L: Long Live Southbanks… M: Melting pot – you want it, its in London, get mixing! N: N1 – my manor O: One Skate Shop P: PARLOUR & PALOMINO Q: Queen Elizabeth – »Gaud Bless ’Er« R: Real Men Skate Curbs! S: Saved Southbank! T: Thermo »Survivor«… U: Upcoming Projects and Events – always something coming, never nothin! V: Vans Collabos … W: Waterloo – your train stop for Southbank and HOV X: X-spots – ever changing London, out with the old, in with the new. Y: Yoot – the future, watch out for em, they’ve got all your tricks! Z: A to … – Get one, leave your phone at home, let the adventure begin!
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www.lovenskate.com
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Yosuke Sweater Smiley London Turtleneck Uniqlo Lea Dress American Apparel Body Falke
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L ON D ON E13JQ 9.00 PM
Styling & Realization HANIBALl SALIBA Photographer SARAH STAIGER Hair & Make-up artist SONJA SHENOUDA @ BIGOUDI USING MAC & AVEDA Models Patrick @ Core Management Ben @ Viva Models Lea, Valentin, Holly @ Izaio Models yosuke @ pearl management
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Ben Shirt Soulland Turtleneck Uniqlo Short Topman Pants Element Shoes Toms Socks Adidas Vintage
Lea Sweatshirt American Apparel Body Falke Skirt Volcom Watch G-shock
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Valentin T-Shirt Cheap Monday Turtleneck Ben Sherman Pants Looky Looky Holly Body Falke Skirt Topshop
Patrick Sweater Soulland Turtleneck Uniqlo Short & Pants Publish Shoes Juun J. by Adidas Socks Falke Watch G-shock
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Valentin Sweater Topman Turtleneck Uniqlo Pants Henrik Vibskov Socks Adidas Vintage Shoes Juun J. by Adidas
Lea Dress Adidas Originals Tights Falke Sandals American Apparel
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Patrick Shirt American Apparel Turtleneck Uniqlo
Yosuke Sweater Wood Wood Turtleneck Ben Sherman Pants Blank Etiquette
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words: ANONYMOUS
NON CONFORMIST
Vive la résistance!
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Nonconformists are honest and transparent individuals. They speak their minds and do what they wanna do. Per definition nonconformists are »characterized by behavior or views that do not conform to prevailing ideas or practices.« A new and bold brand popped up in the biz, using this term as their brand name. Who are the people behind this brand that hails from London? Actually – no clue! Well, they are creative minds with distinctive style and enlarged knowledge about (street)fashion. Their garments are from prime quality, have unique patterns, elaborated prints and a serious color management. The main graphic themes Power, Corruption and Lies, refer to political and social disputes. Peep some of the upcoming fall 2015 styles and find out a little more.
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non – What was the initial idea to create the brand? The initial idea to create the brand came from social situations that have transcended in the past couple of years and the inability of many individuals to express themselves or their beliefs with regards to this. The idea to create clothing came from the many inspiring slogans and placards that have been present at uprisings across the globe.
non – Out of frustration? Born from a collective of individuals who enjoy living life on the other side. Non Conformist is about pride rather than a sense of frustration, with freedom of expression being of utmost importance to the creators of the brand.
non – The message? Non Conformist is a brand based on the everyday struggles, the main message of Power, Corruption and Lies is aimed at the disparities within society and acts on social injustices which need to be pointed out and rectified.
non – What will it change? As a collective we hope that the brand inspires more people to speak their mind and not be afraid of being true to themselves and to challenge their ideas even if it is against the norm.
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non – Based in London! What’s special about your city? London is probably the most multicultural city in the world and listening and taking inspiration from people’s experiences has given us an intensive library of knowledge to work with. London has given the opportunity for the collective of Non Conformist to come together, being made up of individuals from UK, Italy, Japan, South Africa and USA which no other city in the world could have done.
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non – What’s next? Next up is the SS 16 collection, which is going to be showcased in Florence, Milan, Paris, Berlin, NYC and of course London.
non – Any last message? We would like to say thank you to the people have helped put this project together and to the individuals who have fought through the struggles ›we salute you‹.
The latest offering from the UK street scene – NON CONFORMIST debut collection features a variety of street wear staples adorned with the message of POWER, CORRUPTION and LIES . Founded in late 2014 down in East London the brand takes pen to pull-over, creating a collection inspired by daily life in the east. From graphic tees to the classic coach jackets expect the collection to be available at select retailers in UK and EUROPE this July.
www.nonconformistuk.com
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VON SONO
Rebuild Rethink Reset
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Stephanie Oberg aka Sono was born in Munich, studied fashion design in Hamburg and moved to London in 2004 where she founded her own brand VON SONO . She feels free to make her own fashion seasons and form of ranges. Her priority is to give people the feeling of being free, ease and confident. We talked to the mother about street style and culture in London, the benefits of staying anonymous and why it’s important to be louder sometimes. Stephanie, what kind of brand is VON SONO if it’s not really streetwear as you told us? It is always difficult for me to say VON SONO is this or that. Basically I don’t like being put in a draw – I do what I like. For me it is fashion, some people think it is street wear, and others call it fashion forward. It doesn’t really matter to me. I like making clothes and people on the street definitely always influenced me since the beginning. But it could also just be, that I do like comfortable clothes and would never make anything which would feel restricted in any sense. So that is one thing which my stuff and streetwear have in common. It is wearable and should fit into your life.
» M y he roes a r e a l l wa l k i n g d ow n t he s t r ee t e v e ryday « Stephanie Oberg / Sono
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What is the message behind the brand? VON SONO means: VON = from and SONO (my nickname) = me. »From me for you«. In the very beginning every piece was made by myself and still my work is very personal to me. It is important that every piece has its reason to exist. So we are working with a small team and small factories mostly in the UK and some in Europe. We know the people who sew the clothes and try and source our materials from Europe only. It is about making something special for the person who buys it. I don’t like the idea that my clothes are only for one summer or winter season. We do try to be honest and real. When you wear the clothes you should have fun and enjoy them. Your roots lie in Germany; does the German street culture still influence you in your designs today? I think any street culture influences my work and always has done. I walk around a lot and love watching people how they dress and how they style. Young kids and also really old people often have great street style. You mask your models and also you wanna stay anonymous – why? For me it is important to show the clothes - when models wear masks it is easier for the viewer to just look at the garments. No distraction. No mood. Recently it also has been part of the message behind the brand. Rebuild Rethink Reset – it just suited the theme looking at fashion in a different way. Radical changes are not possible so there has to be a cover for it… L O N D O N B R A N D — 96 —
Which kind of women wears VON SONO? Of course a beautiful, independent, modern and strong women with humor and who ever want to wear it. Your current collection works with a lot of letters / quotes. It’s louder than the past collections – why? We are not writing any branding on our clothes at all; I tried to do the opposite with this summer collection. I wanted to say something to make people think – not to teach them something. More to look up and stop for a second. What is going on in this world – why are we just consuming? Why do we need all these things and who is actually making it, who are we buying from, where is it made? Yes it is louder; more obvious then it used to be as for me it is important to say something.
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How has the street style changed over the years in London? London street style is always quite diverse but at the same time there are lots of different styles existing next to each other. They are all changing, coming and going and influencing each other. But some stay like classics whilst others are tried out and don’t stay as long. Who are your inspirational heroes? When I started being interested in fashion it was definitely Helmut Lang and also Jil Sander at the time to mention a designer. I grew up in the 90’s and that will always stay with me. My heroes are all walking down the street everyday. Little things people do, how they wear thing and style themselves. Which impact has the digital revolution on VON SONO? I like using it to work with it sometimes but I’m not addicted to it. I don’t do Facebook, our twitter account hasn’t made it very far. For me it is more important to be in the real world. In your eyes: in which direction will the fashion scene tend in the upcoming years? I think I go with Li Edelkoort (dutch one of the world’s most famous trend forecasters and former chairwoman of the Design Academy Eindhoven) who said in her Fashion Manifesto - that fashion will die. Before being reborn hopefully. It can’t carry on as it is at the moment. All these brands are just pushing out garments and accessories – don’t know who can buy all this. So I have the feeling that there will be a collapse of fashion and unfortunately the big brands will survive and the small ones will probably not. It will be a sad thing but it is happening already step-by-step. But the good thing is that something new will come out of this. I can see very small labels appearing again trying to work in a different pace then the system, trading things instead of following the fashion circle, which is great. Kind of a »modern couture« – you make something for a friend – he wears it and then some other persons wants it too, … the circle begins! Thank you Stephanie words: Nicolette Scharpenberg
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Wild Swimming Photographer Lisa Pardey, www.lisapardey.de Hair & Fashion Stylist Sara Magielka
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Luna Jacket & Short: adidas Originals Top: Faym
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Luna Jacket & Pants: adidas Originals
Luna Sweater & Pants: adidas Originals
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Lea Top: goldbergh | Skirt: adidas Originals
Luna Pants: adidas Originals | Top: Faym
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Gavin Watson styles of a working class Born in London in 1965, Gavin Watson first grew up in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire. There he bought his first camera at Woolworths. It was a Hanimex. This, when he was only fourteen years old - his talent for photography started. He was a skinhead, immersed in Madness, The Specials and other Two Tone, his ‘muse’, was his brother Neville. Later, at the age of sixteen he quitted school, and got back to London. To gain knowledge and please his passion for photography he than worked as a dark room assistant at Camera Press London. But he never lost touch with his family still living in High Wycombe. That is why his younger brother Neville and their skinhead friends became Gavin’s first motifs. The “Trust” within the Group aka “The Wycombe Skins” is a good advantage that gets visible in every single shot he took. All off them have been part of the working-class skinhead subculture brought together by a love of Ska music and fashion. To be different in a definite why was part of the movement. To have very short hair was a big statement. A Haircut that is nowadays quite normal was a crucial point to be part of the movement back then. But that Skinhead style, which was an offshoot of the Mod Movement, was first seen as hard mods. Although skinhead style had become associated with the right-wing extremism of political groups like the National Front in the 1970s, Watson’s photographs document a time and place where the subculture was racially mixed and inclusive. A hard but good time.
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»the word LOVE« photo by Gavin Watson
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Oi! The music and the movement had the objective to combine Skinhead and Punk, working class heroes. They wanted to separate from the rest of the punks as they saw a sellout and commercialism due to the success of Sex Pistols or The Clash. Strength thru Oi! was the claim of their rebellion. Okay the photographer Gavin Watson was right in the middle and documented the youth movements between 1978 and 1985. These photographs are published by Vice, in two great coffee table books that achieved cult status. The distinctive look of the protagonists shown in the books “Skins” (1994) and “Skins and Punks” (2008) have been the inspirational fundamentals for director Shane Meadow’s film “This is England” (2006). And “Skins”, the best selling book based on his early pictures, was hailed as “the most important photographic record of this unique subculture”. Leaving the scene in his early 20’s, Watson went on to have a family and expand his range of work. Most recently, his practice has ventured into the world of fashion, shooting for brands and media. One result was also Neville & Gavin Watson, “Raving 89” a next book that was published in 2009. It is a coop of the brothers in words and images that documents and gets you very close into the raving society.
Dr. Martens Boots were the chosen footwear of the skins, the punks, the Oi!’s and many more. The Dr. Martens Brand than commissioned Gavin Watson to shoot their #firstandforever 2011 and 2012 campaigns. Next to works for brands such as Adidas, Farah Vintage, Jocks & Nerds, Universal Music, Island Records, Revolver Entertainment his images appear regularly in WAD Magazine and too many other magazines to name here. The Victoria and Albert Museum, London stocks a range of his touching images that document youth culture in a very personal way.
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photo by Gavin Watson
»Although skinhead style had become associated with the right-wing extremism of political groups like the National Front in the 1970s, Watson’s photographs document a time and place where the subculture was racially mixed and inclusive.«
»Nev in Kelley’s Clothes«, 1983. by Gavin Watson published in »Skins and Punks«
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Kayleigh, Gavin’s daughter wears the Chingford Girls design for Dr. Martens. The image on the shirt and Kayleigh mugging, both photos by Gavin Watson
Gavin Watson’s brother Neville and friend Leonardo, photo by Gavin Watson
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Model »Jade Thompson«, 2013 photo by Gavin Watson
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»Micklefield«, 1981 photo by Gavin Watson Museum No. E.362-2011. © Gavin Watson / Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
www.gavinwatsonphoto.tumblr.com www.instagram.com/javinwatson66 words: MM | all images by: Gavin Watson
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the Manchester revolution Daren Newman being inspired by different universes of artistic styles, and dwelling in the roots of what could be called »this is the modern world«; Daren Newman is a true role model for how the likes of us could be united.
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What are the concerns that you wish to propound with your art? What are you trying to formulate? I’m not trying to formulate anything really, but I do have concerns with technology and how this technology is destroying our traditional crafts. I don’t hate technology as it does help our modern lives, I just don’t like how it seems to scrub out the history and learning of past crafts. My main concern is with current education and it’s teachings. Our young minds should be taught these crafts and the disciplines that go with them, without these teachings, how can we be expected to create and move forward with an ill informed mind? If what I do inspires someone to pick up a pencil, learn a craft and draw, then I’ve done my job.
What can you tell us about your work and your approach to shape your ideas – by keeping the secret? There are no secrets to what I do, it’s not a gift, it’s all about dedication, hard work and trying to master a craft, which I will never truly master. I’m constantly learning how to make marks and how to connect my heart & mind to my hands. I could probably create something similar to what I do quicker and easier on a computer, but where would the fun be in that. If we have a mind and hands that work, then we should utilize what we have and try to create what we can; to connect with others and build something bright.
Chiefly you are inspired by two entire diverging styles: art nouveau and psychedelic art – both originated in times of historic and social upheaval . Is there a connection between these two periods to you? We’re witnessing a historic moment somehow alike. To which extend do you refer to this? I am indeed heavily inspired by these two styles … Art Nouveau decorated a large part of the Victorian period a period that is steeped in much darkness, social unrest and global progression. This artistic style almost hid the darkness with its beauty, it was also a time, which completely changed the planet and created the modern world in which we now live. Coming from Manchester makes this style even more important to me, as it was the heart of the industrial revolution and, for good or bad, this city shaped how we live now; it gave birth to the modern world. Psychedelic art, in its style, to me is closely linked to Art Nouveau. But it comes from a place of much more social freedom, a place of experimentation and the open use of mind altering substances which gave birth to a rich musical experience in history, and it expresses a beautiful flowing style that seems to seep out of the mind of the artist and onto the page, a fluidity which beautifully encapsulated the feeling of the time … if there was a period in time that I could transport to it would be this time!
Future reaction? a reaction to what?
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We all have the duty to react to things that catch our attention. The world is a dark place and we should all be trying to make it a lighter place, consider others, collaborate and prosper. All of us have a power and we should be working together to create something much bigger than what we currently have. Collectively we have the power to change things for the better.
Are you simply listening to the noise of our time, and try not to write its music? I listen to the noises that affect me, good or bad! I create to self counsel myself. It helps me to deal with my feelings. It takes me to a calm place … In a world, that moves too quickly, we should all be trying to find a place to slow down and consider. The very nature of how I work gives me that space and the time. It is a long considered process, and the more I work the calmer I become.
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»there are no secrets to what i do, it’s not a gift, it’s all about dedication, hard work and trying to master a craft, which i will never truly master. i’m constantly learning how to make marks and how to connect my heart & mind to my hands.« Daren Newman
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There is no prudency towards nostalgia in your works. You are digging in riches of past epochs. Whereto? And in which meaning? There is nothing to be embarrassed about by digging amongst the riches of what I consider some of the most beautiful art created. The styles that influence me excite my mind and make me want to create. There is no point in hiding something that is in plain view! If what I do makes people look to the past and find the original art, which influences me, then I’ve done my job. We have to look to the past to move forward, I’m merely celebrating the styles that influence me and interpreting it in my own way.
How do you go further then your influences? could your art, in this way have been made before or is it contemporary in it’s way, work that results in or reflects on a post conceptual time? For me it isn’t about going further than my influences, it’s all about creating and keeping my mind and my hands active. There are too many people on the planet, who think they are able to create something, that no one has ever seen before, or has been created beforeor that has not been created before. We might create something, that we personally think of as being unique, but odds on someone somewhere is also creating something very similar. The fact, that I’m heavily influenced from two very powerful art forms from the past removes anything truly unique to what I create. It’s unique in some way by being a casserole of styles, but I’m not the only one doing this. I’m just staying true to my influences and trying to produce things that please me and the people that I work for.
Can style save something, do you want to save anything anyway? It’s not about style. Style comes and goes. For me it’s about staying true to a craft and keeping that craft alive, the modern world seems far too interested in technology, which is supposed to make things easier, but all it is doing is dumbing our minds ... so I guess I am in some way trying to save something: I’m trying to save my own mind from becoming mush!
Are you intending to evince any? Even, if that cannot necessarily be communicated clearly? If we create then we are all trying to reveal a feeling. Those true feelings aren’t always very clear to the viewer, but if it evokes any feeling in another, then the creator has been successful in their pursuit.
Genuine ideas do not perish, but they also don›t prevail . From which point do you look at it? L O N D O N P E O P L E — 130 —
I don’t create things to perish. What I do, I want to remain. I personally can›t influence, if my work will prevail, other people can only make that happen by engaging with what I create. The power lies within the viewers. All I can do is try to stimulate the minds that see it. Words by: MvD | Photos by: MM | Artworks by: Daren Newman
»if what i do inspires someone to pick up a pencil, learn a craft and draw, then i’ve done my job.«
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Daren Newman
www.meandmypen.com
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LeGun illustrative, narrative, collaborative
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Neal Fox, Chris Bianchi, Stephanie von Leisewitz, and Bill Bragg are artists and illustrators. As individuals they delve deep in pop, punk, occult, surrealist and counter culture. Together they are reputed as the art collective called LeGun, renowned for their large scale collaborative works, often in the shape of 'walk-in drawings' or narrative environments, where all five members will work on the same drawing/painting/sculpture simultaneously. www.legun.co.uk
Bill Bragg Illustrator with an appreciation for the deeper shades that a pencil can afford, this Englishman depicts fragmentary tales of mystery and conjures unlikely characters in a beautifully noir-esque style. www.billbragg.co.uk
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Stephanie von Reiswitz She spent several years designing jazz, punk and metal album covers for a music label, until she was lured back into the world of illustration. www.vonreiswitz.com
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Neal Fox His more personal work depicts a phantasmagoric journey through the detritus and mythology of pop culture. www.nealfox.tumblr.com
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Robert Rubbish Historic London is an especially inspirational place for his work which brings together his interests in curiosities, joke shops, facial hair, Victorian punk revivalism and gin. www.robertrubbish.com
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Chris Bianchi His personal work deals largely with self initiated narrative and story telling. and draws upon elements of the every day, exposing the under belly of life in a black and white inky fever processing them to become other worldly religious psychedelic symbolic drawings. www.chrisbianchi.co.uk
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Lewis Freeth Notting Hill Carnival L O N D O N P E O P L E — 138 —
Lewis Freeth, is a 34 years old, London raised and based photographer and cooperative artists of Cooph. He captured the Notting Hill Carnival, a world famous London’s street phenomena, with his camera, resulting in stunning images of one of the largest street festivals in the world. Now lets dive a little deeper into Notting Hill Carnival athomosphere while reading what Lewis Freeth has to tell about it.
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Hey Lewis, give us some brief history on you and your camera activities. My intrigue for street imagery began in 2009 when I quit my job and travelled Australia (in particular Sydney), discovering new sights and scenery with my first pocket camera. I made my first visit to Notting Hill Carnival later that year. I was encouraged through social media feedback to press on with my efforts, and realized it wasn’t just going to be a holiday hobby – I had a genuine interest in the people and architecture of the streets of London.
The Notting Hill Carnival is a world-renowned phenomenon, what inspired your project »High on the hills«? There was one annual event in London I felt I couldn’t afford to miss photographically, as it offered so much in terms of colour and character. So after five years of attending I reckoned I might have enough material thematically to create a convincing collection. Usually I’ll spend most of the day there until sunset, but one year I only had a couple of hours to walk around before heading off to a wedding, and found it still delivered ample opportunities for striking scenes. With such a clustering of diversity, even ten minutes can provide more photo ops than a whole afternoon of an average street walk. What exactly did you want to capture? The feeling of being right in there amongst the crowd; the Caribbean colours, laughter, light, smoke, smokers, drinkers and dancers. All of this paradoxically set against a very English backdrop in a millionaire neighborhood.
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It’s always amusing to see British Bobby policeman juxtaposed with the revelers, too. Half a million people visit in one day, and it seems by early afternoon as if most of them are drunk or high … except for me and the bobbies!
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What’s fascinating about events like the Notting Hill Carnival from your point of view as photographer? High On The Hill is a chance to show people a hyper-concentrated version of what I do on any given day in my photography. It’s probably the wildest setting I have visited, almost anything goes. I think the combination of the different elements of cultures, food and music is also interesting photographically. When that smoke from the BBQ’s interacts with the August sunshine, suddenly a street corner can look almost cinematic. Everything moves so quickly with the performances on wheels, so new incidents and characters pop into view all the time. In an age where many public places seem more and more stuffy and controlled, it’s great to see this part of the city just cutting loose for a weekend.
What’s your weapon of choice when it comes to shoot street scenarios? Last year I brought a Fuji X 100s to the show and now it’s permanently around my neck for street photo walks. The first edition of the carnival photo-book was made prior to this introduction though, and was mostly captured with my Nikon D 7000 (in the first couple of years I had a compact, then a Panasonic GF1). The X 100s is a rangefinder of sorts and that has meant more stealth qualities than a DLSR in the urban jungle. For 2015’s carnival, I will have my Nikon to hand for the wide and zoom options, but will mostly stick to using the Fuji. It’s been serving me well already in a few European cities, though I couldn’t give up the DSLR options as and when called for. How do your ideas evolve and when it comes to execution, how do you proceed? I like to keep on the move and shoot from the hip. Its good physical and mental exercise walking for hours whilst switched on to seeking faces, situations and objects that catch the eye. I have a low key, blend in approach, and try not to not set off any »you’ve been framed« signals. A cameraman traveling the wild wants any activity they spot to play out naturally, and so do
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I – realism depends on it. If you know roughly where to look for the action through experience, then a bit of patience and being ready is key. I don’t plan too much and I don’t hang around in one spot for too long, unless it really grabs me as a unique space to set interesting photographs in. In terms of general ideas, my photo stories are mostly location based such as Southbank or Carnival in London, a road trip through California, or recent city trips through Europe. The more areas I can discover, the more I could be inspired to return and do a pre-planned shoot there. Plus it’s always good to try the beer in new places.
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Who are your »idols« in terms of creativity? Trent Parke’s work in Australia inspires greatly in the monotone world, and Martin Parr’s distinctly English moments always make me approach a typical scene in England with his work in mind. William Klein is a living legend. Matt Stuart has some fine humorous street work, and Robert Frank for me is the BB King of the evolution into what we call street photography today.
Assumed you could choose any given event in the world (no financial or political obstacles), which one would you pick to take pictures? It would have to be the next logical step...Rio Carnival. I’m going to have to check it out one of these years! What´s your actual next project? I was fortunate enough to win a street themed travel photography competition last year and the prize is a trip to South Africa in KwaZulu Natal, so that will be a fantastic opportunity to expand my photographic horizons and get me off the beaten path. The challenge there is to try and work my style into a very different environment than usual. The »cameraman in the wild« analogy will be quite literal for me on this project, and I can’t wait. Thanks. Thank you!
www.lewisfreeth.com www.youtube.com/user/TheCooph www.cooph.com
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West End Girl
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Photographer Anny CK, www.annyck.com Fashion Stylist Christina van Zon @ Nude Agency
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Hair & Make-Up Artist Anne Timper @ Nude Agency Using Chanel & Kevin Murphy Model Tamina @Modelwerk
Jacket Joseph Shirt Fred Perry x Liberty Dress Joseph Shoes New Balance Socks Stance
Dress Cheap Monday Shirt Tourne de Transmission Pants Tim Labenda Sweater Barbour Shoes Nike Bag Filippa K
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Jacket 5Preview Dress Philomena Zanetti Buckethead Publish Watch Komono
Jacket Joseph Shirt Paige Pants Joseph Shoes Tretorn Jewellery Sophie by Sophie Bangles Maria Black, Sophie by Sophie
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Vest Monki Blazer Antonia Goy Shirt Mads Dinesen Black Shirt Umasan Pants Bj ö rn Borg Cap Naviiv
Jacket Tourne de Transmission Jumpsuit Rike Feuerstein Shirt Cheap Monday
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Rain jacket Tretorn Jacket Wood Wood Sweater Weekday Skirt Wood Wood
Jacket Tourne de Transmission Jumpsuit Rike Feuerstein Shirt Cheap Monday Shoes Fred Perry
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Vest Monki Blazer Antonia Goy Shirt Mads Dinesen Black Shirt Umasan Pants Bj ö rn Borg Cap Naviiv
Jacket Joseph Shirt Paige Pants Joseph Jewellery Sophie by Sophie Bangles Maria Black, Sophie by Sophie
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Georgia Forward thinking pop meltdown
Not every child of a pop star is going to be one too. And not any kid, whose parents are great musicians, knows how to pin down songs, which manage to groove all the way edgy while remaining catchy. The London based multi-instrumentalist, songwriter and producer Georgia Barnes is one of a rare example, who truly can manage this – and stands out! Georgia was born into such a family of musicians – and, now her own music has the potential to shape a future of pop music. Her father founded the famous British electronic duo Leftfield. From childhood days on she has been exposed to all sorts of musical styles. Initially playing the drums, after finishing her musical studies, she started drumming live together with lots of London based DIY innovators like Kwes, Micachu or Kate Tempest amongst others. Her shows with these musical libertines were celebrated as formidable and absolutely charismatic. In 2013 Georgia decided to step apart from »just being behind the drums« in order to focus on greater goals. She locked herself into a home-studio to write and produce songs, – to conquer the world! The first result of this was her debut EP »Come In« for the London based indie-label Kaya Kaya records. It proofed her sensibilities for deeply touching pop with dubstep influenced electronic rhythms – a kind of new dance music. Furthermore, her music — 160 —
thrilled with syncopated bass drums, rolling synth-lines, and with her variable magical voice, she straightened out, that she is not an average new pop sensation that will vanish fast into the books of history. The latest proof of this assumption is her selftitled debut long-player for the London based record company Domino. As always, all the twelve tracks were produced entirely by her. And again, delivered as soulful, progressive electronic pop, which will easily loop in your head forever. All tunes are genre busting, confrontational and root in a globally minded feel. One can find fragments of dub, dancehall, hip-hop, grime, post-punk and pop in them, as well as Balinese Gamelan music or echoes of abstract electronic arrangements, that artists like Oneohtrix Point Never are famous for. Also sophisticated UK pop traditions are particles of this profound musical journey. Above all, her warm, compelling and malleable voice bangs and delivers melodies and complementing choruses, which work like a sound-superglue. With this debut album, Georgia, underlines, that she wants to establish herself as an important figure and fixture in London’s most singular contemporary artistic circles. We talked to her about growing up in London, the influences of this city on her sound and of course about her »self-titled« debut album.
www.dominorecordco.com/artists/georgia
Can you tell us something about your musical background? How did you first get into music and performing? Well, since I can remember I have always been fascinated by music. I grew up in a musical household, and was exposed to all sorts of music from an early age. Around my teens I really wanted to start learning and playing instruments, guitar, piano, drums and singing and then I started writing, performing and recording songs from 16 onwards, at school and with my friends. I got a 4 track tape recorder when I was 17 and started fooling around with recording and developing a sense of producing, that was a lot of fun. What was it like growing up in London and how did it inspire you to do what you do? London is everything to me. It really shaped me into the artist I am now. Just the amount of different cultures you are exposed to all over the city, and the music that comes with that. It is an incredibly inspirational place but it’s also a struggle, but I love the struggle! What is your creative process like? What do you usually start out with when working on a new piece? It depends really. It either starts with a melody or rhythm. Sometimes I can write a song and produce it in the studio in a night and other times it takes a lot longer. What instruments and machines did you use on your album? There are all sorts on this record. I wasn’t restrained. It’s a good mix of live instruments, electronic instruments and programmed beats. How do you introduce sampling into your work? Through listening to lots of records really, and getting inspired by all the sounds. It’s said, that you wrote your debut album over the course of two years. What was your main inspiration while you have been producing it? Georgia: My friends. London. My family. Playing live shows with my friends. Generally life really. What are your biggest musical influences in general? That is a really hard question. I have so many. Missy Elliott, has been the biggest inspiration to me. In the studio I would spend nights just listening to her back catalogue, learning about production, song structures and beats. Can you name three albums that have a major influence in your work?
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Missy Elliott: Supa Dupa Fly (The Goldmind, Inc. 1997) | Fever Ray: Fever Ray (Rabid Records 2009) Frank Ocean: channel ORANGE (Island Def Jam 2012) How would you describe the your music to someone who hasn’t listened to it yet? Fucking brilliant! No, honestly. It is just forward thinking pop. The first instrument you played were the drums. Do you use drumming for your songwriting? Yes always. If I’m not adding live drums or programming on the laptop, I’m always thinking about rhythm. The keyboard lines you hear on all the songs are very rhythmic, and the way I sing melodies in certain verses or choruses is inspired by drums. How did drumming for Kwes and playing gigs with Kate Tempest and Micachu influence your work as a musician? A massive influence. Without playing with these guys or being around them I would not have grown into the artist I am today. They each taught me so much. Plus it really did help that first and foremost they are all my friends. You worked in the Rough Trade West shop in London. How did working at a record store effect your artistic progression? Working at Rough Trade West in London was the best. I learnt a lot about music and all its different shapes. Shout out to Nigel House, Chris Summers, Sean Forbes and Cordelia! The best team ever! Yeah I would say, that being exposed to the amount of records I was defiantly helped shape my multicolored sound. You have studied music at the SOAS in London. Can you tell us a moment on your album that reflects these studies? I don’t think there is a particular moment that I can point out. Everything I’ve learned - not only in university - is all over the music. Did you have guest musicians on your album? No help from the outside. All myself been played in and produced by me, unfortunately. If you could be in any band, dead or alive, for one day, which band would it be? I would probably have to say either Radiohead or Wu Tang Clan. That would be fun I think. Or actually the drummer for the James Brown’s band 1960 s, it would certainly whip me into shape. Great, thank you!
Words: Michael Leuffen
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Sean McAuliffe NTS Radio – Alleviate the entire planet Words: Michael Leuffen
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Sean McAuliffe against the white tile wall close to Gillett Sq, Dalston/London
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Since spring 2011 NTS Radio spreads sounds without limitations for an international community of music lovers. Formed by the original Boiler Room member Femi Adeyemi, the online radio station based in Dalston, London gives space for impassioned hosts and DJs who like to explore ideas through music without restraint. Furthermore almost nothing is pre-recorded! Instead artists and labels such as Four Tet, Floating Points, Legowelt, Tim Sweeney, Andrew Weatherall, James Holden, Erased Tapes, RVNG Intl., Berceuse Heroique, Blackest Ever Black, Jazzman or The Trilogy Tapes play their music everyday from 9am – 2am GMT live. Also for young talented artists NTS makes a lot of room and broadcasts some of London’s most sought-after new DJs like Kutmah, Martelo, Moxie or Mamiko. What all artists at the globally demanded radio station have in common is a deep sense for uncovering the best of the musical past, while celebrating the present and cultivating the future of the underground music scene. NTS consistent, quality content has made it a strong hold within the local community at their Dalston home and a
reference point for new and experimental music. Beside regulars and new comers, every week NTS welcomes stars from abroad ranging from Brasil one-off-a-kinds like Ed Motta, Awesome Tapes From Africa, Ex-Sonic Youth guitarist Thurston Moore, deceased house godfather Frankie Knuckles, techno legend Jeff Mills or the Rush Hour crew from Amsterdam. During the whole year the station also travels around the globe and broadcasts live from festivals like Dimensions or musical events in museums like MoMa / PS1 in NYC. Currently the folks from London also did their first Europe tour in cooperation with Carhartt WIP and travelled to cities like Lyon, Madrid, Cologne or Bordeaux where they introduced local talents that to let their visions in sound free wheel alongside well-known DJs like Gerd Janson or Pional. All of NTS ’s multidimensional activities run under the claim »Don’t assume« – a slogan that perfectly sums up the station’s musical diversity and radical programming. To look behind the scenes of one of the most internationally renowned online radio stations we talked to NTS Radio managing director Sean McAuliffe.
Gifted London based producer and NTS Radio presenter Throwing Shade against the white tile wall close to Gillett Sq
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Legendary DJ, Producer and remixer Andrew Weatherall with dog at Gillet Sq
P-Funk originator George Clinton smirking at the NTS Radio Radio booth
House forefather Franรงois Kevorkian having a conversation with Charlie Bones, man behind the The Do!! You!!! Breakfast Show
Hey Sean, can you tell us a bit about your musical background? How did you first get into music? I spent most of my childhood in the 80’s in Ibiza, so I always had a strong dose of Balearic music influencing me. In London, from when I was about 13, my wonderful mum (hiya mum!!!) used to give me a pair of defect shoes every week from the shoe company she worked at. I used to take the defect shoes to a second hand store and exchange them for record vouchers. I didn’t really know what I was buying at first so I’d just buy the first few records in say the Jazz A–C section and then after getting home and having a listen, I’d return the ones I didn’t like and move on to Jazz D–F, and so on. For the next few years in those London Record & Tape Exchange stores, I managed to learn about most genres of music.
What was it like being a teenager in London? How did it inspire you to do what you do? Besides listening to old records, I did what most kids in London did, listen to radio and go to clubs that played music that was London bred, like Hardcore, Jungle, UK Acid House and I’m not ashamed to say it, a little bit of Acid Jazz. Radio stations like Girls, Kiss, Unity and Dream FM were all intrinsic to my teenage years, so I’m sure that led to my love affair with radio.
What did you do in music culture before start running NTS with Femi Adeyemi? I worked in a bunch of independent record stores in Soho and in South London. Most notably was Release The Groove, a shop for London heads and most of the international DJs when they were in town. I also ran a couple of little record labels, wrote for music magazines like Straight No Chaser and hosted radio shows on London pirate stations. That was all up until I was about 24, then I took a break from music (besides DJing occasionally and buying records) for a few years to concentrate on another business I set up.
You are a DJ too. Can you tell us a bit about your times behind the decks? Can you remember where you first started DJing and the kind of music you were playing? Where did you perform regular and with whom did you play? First gig ever was at the Dogstar in Brixton when I was 15, I remember playing »New Jersey Deep« by The Black Science Orchestra and seeing drunken people get up on tables to dance to it. Experiencing that made me think I didn’t need to go to school anymore. I played regularly at Gilles Peterson’s night »That’s How It Is« at Bar Rhumba and regularly on Saturday nights at the now defunct club Plastic People. That was all happening around 1998 to 2006. I don’t DJ that often anymore. I still find playing records to drunk people fun, but the rush is no where near as good as it was when I first started. I’m pretty sure most DJs that have been playing for years would say the same thing.
What do you do for NTS on a day-to-day basis? Crank! L O N D O N M U S I K — 166 —
Can you describe a bit of what the NTS »office« looks like and what an »average« day at the office might be? It’s a pigsty. During the day we are listening to a lot of music and asking people to clean up after themselves.
Whether guests or hosts: each DJ gets photographed while hanging in the window of the NTS Radio booth at Gillett Sq, Dalston/London
Bristol born Trip hop icon, rapper, musician and actor Tricky gets ready to play at NTS
Famed Scottish hip hop trio Young Fathers right before playing some of their favourite records at NTS
London based DJ, producer and NTS host Kutmah having a expresso on Gillet Sq
How important is Dalston and the Gillett square in front of the station for NTS? Dalston isn’t integral like it was when NTS first started, but having a studio open to a public square, particularly Gillett square, has definitely been more fun for the radio hosts and all the local crack heads outside the booth.
NTS also broadcasts abroad from festivals and other musical events. Why? What do you want to archive with this move? We receive requests from artists and DJ’s to give them broadcasting time or slots on the radio all day long. They are from all over the world, Australia, Russia, Brazil, Tokyo, Canada and everywhere in-between (except China and North Korea I guess). We want to give as many of these artists as possible the opportunity to let their creativity flow to the NTS audience, so rather than expecting them to come to us, we now broadcast internationally on a weekly basis, showcasing what the whole world has to offer, rather than just London.
How would you describe the sound of NTS to someone who hasn’t heard of it? Hard to discover, emotional, engaging and interesting music from all sub-genres, selected and played by some of the world’s finest artists, musicians, producers, record labels, record shops and DJs.
What comes next at NTS? Any plans for new stuff like live events, club nights or general upgrading? There’s a new mobile site and an APP on the horizon, have been for a while.
NTS was launched with almost no funding. Now you have an office and many people working at the station. As advertising was never an option how do you plan to continue financing the mission? We only hire really good-looking people at NTS . So everyone takes it in turns to prostitute themselves to make ends meet …
How do you feel about the success of NTS? We’ve only just begun. We want to alleviate the entire planet of having to listen to crap music because they think that’s their only option. There’s a long way to go but we’re making progress.
Any favourite show at NTS? I love them all. In the office we try to listen to every show, but it is tough as there are so many. Lately I’ve been listening to Colours, SOS, Noise In My Head, Kit Records, Shamos, Trevor Jackson and Channelling a lot. The Charlie Bones the Do!! You!!! Breakfast show has made my mornings happier for the last 4 years too.
Where do you see NTS in five years from now? L O N D O N M U S I K — 168 —
Everywhere!
www.ntslive.co.uk
Having fun at the NTS Radio booth: Kyle Hall and Steven Julien aka FunkinEvil
singer, songwriter, composer and experimental music innovator Micachu sipping a coffee
Chicago born, New York City based deep house legend Ron Trent
Everywhere around the world new online radios emerge successful. Where does this demand come from in your eyes? And how do you see these other online radio platforms like Dublab in L. A. or Berlin Community Radio – competitors or likeminded colleagues? The demand for online radio stations has grown simply through the changes in technology. We definitely see stations like Dublab and BCR as like-minded colleagues in fact we have worked with them regularly. There are currently over tens of thousands of online radio stations they mostly serve their local communities. We try to serve a global community of music lovers.
What is the difference between NTS and traditional pirate radio station? NTS is legal, except for the underpaid and underage interns.
How do you keep your work fresh and continue to evolve? We have a huge network of talented young creative people that contribute to the NTS evolution.
Please recommend three upcoming artists to our readers that you feel deserve their attention. Lord Tusk, Zebra Katz & Leila, Bullion
What are five albums that have a major influence in you? Shuggie Otis: Inspiration Information (Epic 1974) Robbie Basho: Basho Sings (Takoma 1967) Sun Ra: Sleeping Beauty (El Saturn Records 1979) Steve Reich: Music for 18 Musicians (ECM 1978) Carl Craig: More Songs About Food And Revolutionary Art (Planet E 1997)
What are you favourite clubs/bars in London to hang out? Bardens on 36 Stoke Newington Road and the NTS office.
Is high priced London still good for sub culture in your eyes? Absolutely. High prices aren’t good, but with them comes creative emotional drive. Just like in any other big cities with clear disparities between the rich and poor and a vast cultural heritage to take references from, there will always be sub culture in cities like London.
What are five words that would describe your personal fashion style? Always. A. Few. Years. Behind.
Who inspires you? L O N D O N M U S I K — 170 —
All the selectors on NTS !
Okay great, thank you!
NTS Radio trowing an open air bash at Notting Hill Carnival 2013
NTS co-founder Femi Adeyemi in happy anticipation of the NTS Notting Hill Carnival bash 2013
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NORRØNA Loaded Minimalism™ Norrøna is a family owned and run outdoor clothing brand based near Oslo, Norway. They produce some of the best high-end, performance-driven products. Norrøna means Old Norse, the language spoken in Scandinavia before 1400 CE. The logo depicts the head of a Birkebeiner. They where members of a rebel party formed during the Norwegian Civil War period. Birkebeiner means birch-legs. Some of the rebels were so poor and couldn't afford proper footwear that they made their shoes of birch bark. Originally used in a belittling sense, the term Birkebeiner was taken up by the opposition, and they continued using it after coming to power in 1184.
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Norrøna offer’s a broad variety of gear for all sorts of outdoor activities. The whole range is divided into thirteen sub-sections (or concepts how they’re called by Norrøna), all named after a region in Norway besides /29 which is named after the year of Norrøna’s foundation - 1929. Summer gear: fjørå (singletrack mountainbiking); bitihorn (lightweight trekking/trailrunning) All year gear: falketind (general outdoor use: trekking, climbing, mtb, running); trollveggen (mountain workwear for ice climbing, expeditions, …); svalbard (outdoor classics: cotton, heritage styles) /29 ( lifestyleline products according to season) Winter gear: lyngen (ski- & snowboard touring, performance-oriented, lightweight); narvik (backcountry freestyle: looose cuts, perfect for park and backcountry freestyle); lofoten (for big mountain freeride ski & sb) Hunting (all year): recon; dovre; finnskogen Plus, for the little-ones there is the jr line (size 134-158 with different products for trekking, climbing, ski/ sb, lifestyle, mtb,…) Founded in 1929 by Jørgen Jørgensen, driven by the idea to make the highest quality outdoor products, the company is now administrated by his great grandson who happens to be called like his ancestor – Jørgen Jørgensen. He presides over the company since 2005 and led Norrøna into the European market. He has a very clear vision for his company and is a modern leader who doesn´t seem to be shy to roll up his sleeves, when necessary. The history of Norrøna, in terms of innovations, creating the original mountain tent in 1972, being the first company in Europe to use Gore-Tex® in 1977 or devising the standard monitoring system for backpacks in 1979, is the matrix for building touchstone products, establishing construction techniques, and redefining the meaning of fit, fabric, function and finish, based on the design principle of ››Loaded Minimalism™‹‹. (Loaded Minimalism™ entails that every product has all the critical details it needs but nothing more, making it clean in terms of looks and extremely durable at the same time.)
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Each product line is re-engineered every three years, thus ensuring that each piece measures up to the highest standards in terms of quality, design and functionnality. This approach is strengthened by the fact that every step in the evolution of a product, from concept to creation, is executed by an inhouse team of designers and craftsmen. Plus, a bunch of outdoor maniacs, the so-called ambassadors, who are at the peak in their respective discipline, function as test personnel. They trial the prototypes in tough situations and give their feedback on what’s good and where improvements might be necessary. The goal is to create products with the best possible design, cutting-edge functionality and the highest quality. Jørgensen is cognizant of corporate responsibility. His company developed guidelines for ethical trade, the so called Code of Conduct. All Norrøna suppliers must sign it before entering a partnership. The content is based on the international conventions relating to working conditions and the environment. As a member of The Ethical Trading Initiative Norway they are obliged to report annually on their work and progress on ethical trade. Using environmentally friendly materials and techniques wherever possible is a matter of course and in 2012 the first fleece jacket made entirely from recycled PET bottles was released. 97 % of the of the used cotton is organic and by the end of this year, all cotton products should be made from organic cotton. Norrøna uses Polygiene in some of their products. Polygiene is an odor control technology. You can wear your clothes more often and have to wash them less. Besides the ecological understanding, CEO Jørgensen is also aware that with leadership comes social responsibility. With some 75 employees from different countries, he is facing a complex situation. He came with a simple yet smart idea to make sure he catches what’s on the mind of his staff. One has to approach him directly. No email, no booking for a meeting. Real talk, face to face. Which is and will be, even in times when electronic devices seem to be taking over most information exchange, the best way of communication. The new headquarters in Lysaker, located 10 minutes away from Oslo, also reflect the Norrøna Zeitgeist. The inside of the building is like an open space. A lot of glass instead of walls and the vibe is welcoming, very friendly, almost familiar. Flat hierarchy, no hints of bureaucracy etc. everybody is working literally hand in hand. The Research Design and Development department is close to ultramodern sewing workstations, ideas can be carried out quickly if necessary. The cantina provides lunch for the whole staff, everybody mingles and the passion for their company is evident. And their boss´s principles are the overall guidelines: »Our compass is pointed to nature, Norway’s stunning nature is our laboratory. Our goal is sustainability.« Words: EH
www.norrona.com
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CITY SERIES #3
Cit y SerieS #1
Cit y SerieS #2 los angeles
©2014 Vans Inc. Photo: Taylor Bonin
CitY series #1 Berlin edition
LONDON
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