Stw2d 54 city series #4 New York special edition by streetwear today magazine

Oktober, November, Dezember | ISSN 1860-9996 | D € 5,00 | USA $ 10,00 | UK £ 6,00 | SKR 70 | NKR 85 | E, F, I € 9,00 | A, B, L, NL € 6,00 | CHF 10 | CNY 100 | HKD 80 | JPY 1400

A R T W O R K B Y: DA R E N N E W M A N W W W. M E A N D M Y P E N .C O M

STW2D NO. 54 | 4 / 2015 | OCTOBER, NOVEMBER, DECEMBER

»THE CITY SERIES #4 NEW YORK EDITION« New York, New York, a. k. a, New York City. No description required – she is famous and infamous – she is alive and never sleeps – she gives birth to dreams and often decides in an instant whether or not you make it and change the world, or fail and fade away. While there would be no way to include all the names and faces that make up the creative energy of New York City, we tried to pull together a variety of individuals that have and continue to keep New York on the map and unchallenged as the center of the creative universe. Here are some of the people we had the pleasure to meet with, shoot or talk to in the last couple of weeks. In random order we present you: Reginald Pean, Young Guru, Tasha Bleu, Street Etiquette, Joshua Kissi, Travis Gumbs, Stephen Holding, Ricky Powell, Rebecca Beard, Ray Mate, Phil Knott, Peter Pabon, Michael Nicholas, Tomokazu Matsuyama, Matthew Waldman, Lee Trice, Okayplayer, Dan Petruzzi,

Ginny Suss, Abiola Oke, Alan Maleh, Phil Knott, Leah McSweeney, David Gensler, Adam & Alex Jane Motorcycles, Laura Wass, Lamour Supreme, Brian Procell, Kevin SAER Leong, Joe Avedisian, Jeff Staple, Ivan Uskokovic, Eric Haze, »Hawaii« Mike Salman, Greg Rivera, Fubz, Deirdre Maloney, Daniel Morris, Daniel lividmagazine, D-NICE, Creative Control TV, Coodie Simmons, Chike Ozah, Claw Money, DJ Clark Kent, Chris Vidal, Chris Forkerts, Ant Lava, Adam Schatz, Jordan Bratton, Elle, Mad Bury Club, Sammi Gluckman aka SDJ, David »Shadi« Perez, Ramon Yang aka Rostarr, RobC, Lincoln Design Co., David Keller, Sophie Day, Meryl Meisler, Dadras, Matt Werth, Elvis Perkins, Erik Wolsky and more New Yorker are part of this issue. And. As we are used to look ahead and sideways, it is our pleasure to show you some more awesome brands, nice products and interesting people from other parts of the world within this STW2D No. 54.

Oktober, November, Dezember | ISSN 1860-9996 | D € 5,00 | USA $ 10,00 | UK £ 6,00 | SKR 70 | NKR 85 | E, F, I € 9,00 | A, B, L, NL € 6,00 | CHF 10 | CNY 100 | HKD 80 | JPY 1400

A R T W O R K B Y: DA R E N N E W M A N W W W. M E A N D M Y P E N .C O M

DONTSTOP! DAVID GENSLER FOR STW2D

Cover:: Front – New York, New York reverse script by Ray Mate, Inside Cover by Daren Newman, Backcover artwork by Lamour Supreme, Inside Backcover spread by Lincoln Design Co.

streetwear today the quarterly magazine for international streetstyles IMPRINT ISSN 1860-9996 streetwear today Alte Hattingerstrasse 11 | D-44789 Bochum | Germany office@stw2d.com www.streetwear-today.com Editor in Chief: Martin Magielka (V.i.S.d.P.) | mm@stw2d.com Editor: Erik Hüsken | eh@stw2d.com | Editor UK: Jason Jules | jj@stw2d.com Editor USA: David Gensler | dg@stw2d.com | Editor: Michael Leuffen | hml@stw2d.com | Editor: Joachim Offenbacher | jo@stw2d.com | Photo Editor: Bastian Hessler | bastian@stw2d.com | Fashion Editor: Sara Magielka | sm@stw2d.com | Fashion Assistance: Meike Ratsch | mr@stw2d.com | Design: Judith Anna Rüther Further contributors in this issue: Peter Pabon, Rebecca Beard, Ray Mate, Josh Henson, Jarred Eberhardt, Daren Newman, Lisa Pardey, MvD, Tobias Wirth, Julia Quante, Hannibal Saliba, Sarah Staiger, Mine Uludag, Edgar Berg, Phillip Zwanzig Marketing, Advertising and Publishing: Heavy Traffic UG Alte Hattingerstrasse 11 | D-44789 Bochum | Germany Martin Magielka | mm@stw2d.com Subscription Service, Retail and Distribution inquiries: Meike Ratsch | mr@stw2d.com

www.streetwear-today.com National distributor (Germany): Stella Distribution GmbH Frankenstrasse 7 | 20097 Hamburg www.stella-distribution.de International distributors: Austria: Morawa Pressevertrieb | www.morawa.com | Belgium: AMP | www.ampnet.be | Brazil: H.B. Revistas | www.hbrevistas.com.br | Great Britain (UK): Emblem Group | Japan: Kaigai Inc. | www.kaigai-inc.co.jp | Netherlands: Betapress B.V. | www.betapress.nl | Norway: Listo AB | www.listo.se | Spain: Comercial Atheneum | www.atheneum.com | Sweden: Svenska Interpress | www.interpress.se | Switzerland: Valora AG | www.valora.com | Singapore: Basheer Graphic Books | www. basheergraphic.com | Thailand: Peng Ha Shieng Co. Ltd. Printed by: Hitzegrad Print, Media & Services, Dortmund Paper by: Igepa Profi Silk We cannot be liable for unrequested material we receive. Submitted images and unrequested material can be used any time. Reprinting of streetwear today – complete or in extracts – only by written agreement. Published features from freelancers must not share the opinion of the editorial staff. Place of jurisdiction is Bochum. — 3 —

The Cons One Star Pro x Sean Pablo

Made by Sean Pablo

www.polerstuff.com

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artwork by Daren Newman »The City Series #4 New York Edition« This Page Staple and Penfield, Clawmoney and Fila Marshall London O’Neill and Pendleton Incase and Kelly Slater Vans Vault and The North Face G-Shock the Mudmaster Burton and Alpha Industries and undefeated Metamorphosis Pally’hi No Name by Lisa Pardey Made in Brooklyn, Harold Hunter and HUF Mighty Healthy and Mishka Puma and ICNY Mathilda by Tobias Wirth & Julia Quante DCshoes and Shut NYC Erik Wolsky – Levi’s Skateboarding Beat Street by Hannibal Saliba & Sarah Staiger Meryl Meisler Sophie Day and Alife and G-Shock Jose Mertz Miya Ando and Element Eden adidas by Street Etiquette David Gensler ROBC artwork Lee Trice Headz of New York, too many to name here Rostarr Caught … by Phillip Zwanzig David Keller and Cooph I Ball NY by Niels Jäger Opposites attract by Marco Justus Schöler New School by Mine Uludag & Edgar Berg Dadras Elvis Perkins RVNG intl. Creation Rebel Lincoln Design Co Artworks

www.stapledesign.com www.penfield.com

Staple Design and Penfield

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We heard about Jeff Staple and his talents in design already a real long time ago and than we have been curious what his work is all about. Some cool shirts we saw first. All of a sudden it was straight in the face. Actually 2005. The Pigeon Dunk SB. Sneaker riots headlined the New York Times when the shoes got released. You can imagine, since than, the Pigeon, Staples logo is known worldwide. Now, 10 years later, after releasing numerous of cool products Jeff worked again on an outstanding jacket with the American outdoor specialist, the Penfield Brand. Penfield and their »New England« aesthetic are also well known for highprofile collaborations, innovative fabric developments together with an unfaltering commitment to quality, durability, function and style. So yes, with Jeff Staple it is an ongoing collaboration, almost a tradition that the both Brands work together. A collaboration product whose success is warranted. This brand new 3-pocket winter jacket comes in a puffy execution, in a light blue, blue kind of a city camouflage style. The Jacket will reach selected retailers right on time for the harshly wintertime.

WELCOME TO FLANNELVILLE.

FLANNEL TOU GH ENOU GH TO STAN D U P TO THE ELEM ENTS AND S OFT E N OU GH TO DO ABSOLU TE LY N OTHI N G.

LOST IN MUSIC The Marshall London

www.marshallheadphones.com

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Marshall, manufacturers of the world’s most famous amplifiers, presents the first smartphone that puts its main focus on music – the Marshall London. Marshall London delivers the promise of high-quality listening; thanks to its dual speakers using enhanced bass technology and the dedicated hifi-grade sound card. The London is capable of crystal-clear playback of lossless FLAC files. The stereo microphone is perfect for recording on the go and features excellent noise reduction. Two stereo jacks are located on the top of the phone, allowing two users to share music simultaneously and at different volume levels. A global wide equalizer allows the user to personalize music played on the phone without having to adjust the sound on each individual music app. The revolutionary M-button gives you quick access to all your music players, including London’s pre-installed music player, which supports popular formats such as mp3, mp4, AAC and many more. The London has Marshall’s DNA imprinted in its hardware & design. It features beautifully crafted iconic brass details and buttons, and an analogue scroll wheel which offers tactical and precise volume control. The phone’s matte black surface is similar to the skin of Marshall amps and offers better grip in your hands. Words by: eh

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WWW.COOPH.COM

29.Sep..15 16:56

Pendleton is a traditional American company with a rich history in craftsmanship. The company recently celebrated 152 years of weaving fabrics. Thus their multicolor pattern blankets kept already warm the chieftains of many Indian tribes during their winter ceremonies. Now the company produces clothing, blankets and home décor in the sixths generation. They are known for fabric innovations originated in their famous Pendleton Woolen Mills. Today, the Pendleton family seems busy in producing more and more collaborative Products. Many Tribes, oh Brands trust the conscious materials and create their individual styles. An ongoing collaboration with the O’Neill Brand caught our attention and comes right in time for this winter season. Syntonized in color, this capsule collection includes a classic ‘60s boardshirt, a sweater, a panel cap and a backpack, next to a precious Caban jacket. The bomber jacket combines the highest quality Pendleton wool lining with O’Neill’s HYPERDRY technology and 3M Thinsulate. These pieces will keep you warm and dry in style. They are referring perfectly to the intersection of both brands individual knowledge and style.

www.pendleton-usa.com @penletonwm

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O’Neill and Pendleton An ongoing adventure

www.oneill.com @oneill

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www.incase.com www.kswaveco.com

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Incase and Kelly Slater H2O resistant Incase is known to design quite cool cases to protect your beloved smartphones and laptops. They also have a large selection of backpacks to carry your office essentials around the world. Often we saw the release of special collaboration products. This time it was on Kelly Slater with Incase to create a high-performance range of solutions with H2O-ready enhancements built for those whose creative pursuits lie in water-driven environments. Guided by instinct, driven by passion is the slogan that guides the Kelly Slater action pack featuring water-resistant materials like 1680D ballistic nylon, 600D coated poly and coated zippers for a durable, weatherized exterior that protects your gear from the elements. Developed in a subtle dolphin gray colorway with custom ÂťAqua Tiger CamoÂŤ print accents, the packs aesthetics draw inspiration from the appearance of the ocean's surface and the interplay of light and the dark at dusk.

The Kelly Slater Action Pack Bundle includes: Kelly Slater Action Camera Pro Pack, KS H2O Mono Kit for GoPro, KS H2O Accessory Organizer, KS Protective Cover for GoPro, KS Accessory Organizer, TENSAERLite GoPro nest.

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Vans Sk8-Hi MTE LX

Desert Chukka MTE L

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www.vans.com | #vansvault www.thenorthface.com | #thenorthface

Vans Vault & The North Face classical performance Okay, no need to introduce you to Vans neither to The North Face. Vans and their Vault subdivision have a focus on timeless pieces drawn from the brands 40-plus years heritage. These Vault products are made of special or premium materials only. Now Vans Vault teamed up with outdoor specialists The North Face to create a functional range of footwear and apparel styles ideal for the upcoming wintertime. Yes it is getting cold and wet out doors so that TNF brings their technical expertise to the plate. Even the Vans Sk8-Hi MTE LX and Desert Chukka MTE L footwear steps along in classic silhouettes and colorways, they feature water-repellant and insulation leather or suede uppers, gusseted tongues, reversed waffle lug outsoles and heat retention technologies. The different earth tonal colorways make it a hard choice. TNF’s Nuptse® Jacket, a classic puffy jacket constructed with 700 goose down ﬁll delivers plush warmth in awkward conditions and rounds up the pack. This black Jacket is emblazoned with a Vans typical checkerboard pattern that the skate company is known for. Double label branding is given on both the footwear and the jacket to manifest this extraordinary cooperation work. The Vault by Vans x The North Face collection gets on shelves at select streetwear boutiques starting October 31.

The North Face Nuptse Jacket features a Vans typical checkerboard pattern

GWG-1000 The Mudmaster

www.gshock.com www.gshock.com/soho

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Did you ever take a mud bath? I can tell you it is such a good feeling. Sure it is a healthy thing and after 20 minutes your body is activating Endocrines that help your immune system. If you need to know when the time is over and you need to jump out the mud we found the right watch for you! The GWG-1000 Mudmaster. Just kiddin’ but actually this new watch by G-Shock is built to prevent intrusion by sand, mud or dust having that tough and tactical appearance. Reliable in operation you can trust the Master in the harshest environments, maybe even jungles and deserts. The new Mudmaster is a great looking G-Shock that combines advanced features with extreme durability and takes the G-Shock to a new level. The tech rider is a thick book on its own, so we just give you a few technical bullet points. 200 meters water resistant. Resistant to heavy vibration. Low temperature resistance to – 10 °C. World times of 29 cities. Stopwatch, countdown timer, analog/digital hybrid display, 5 daily alarms, hourly time signal, auto-calender, and dual LED backlights. Weight: approximately 100 grams. The Mudmaster watch arrives in a bright yellow with black accents, black on black and military green with black accents. Get yours! L I N E S — 22 —

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY LUKAS KORSCHAN – FROM THE SERIES «FAMILIAR FACES»

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Clash of the titans

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Confront cold climatic conditions with Burton, Alpha Industries and Undefeated.

L I N E S â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 25 â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

www.burton.com

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Burton, Alpha Industries, Undefeated. Three big names, each a giant in its respective field (Burton - Snowboard giant / Alpha Industries - Military-inspired clothing giant / Undefeated – Streetwear giant) teamed up to create a bunch of dead-cool meticulous garments for snowboarding and other tactical purposes. Together, Burton, Alpha Industries and Undefeated developed a collection of combat-inspired gear with progressed technical operating level. Elaborated equipment gives the wearer confidence and when its used in adverse circumstances (elements can be a bitch) it also provides a feeling of security when the wolf pack comes. There is a N-3B parka, a M-65 jacket, a MA-1 flight jacket, inspired by the originals of the Alpha Industries Brand. These famous jackets got revamped with Burton’s technical materials and got a camouflage or color coating by undefeated for a true »I’m up to some serious shit« look. The three collaborators reached an agreement on Back Ops True Black, Field Olive, Undefeated Camo and Coyote Tan with a signal orange inner lining to keep Alpha’s tradition alive. Functional, well shaped cargo pants, a special flight suit, some matching snowboots, the UAB mitt gloves and a helmet and some googles by Burtons Anon are added to this extraordinary survival pack. Furthermore some lightweight luggage in the form of Burton’s Reconnaissance 23L Pack and its Operator Duffel show the love to details again. Each piece has waterproof seam-sealed pockets for storage, plenty of zippered ventilation, 100 % Polyester Printed Taffeta lining and patches to customize it at a whim. Words by: EH

www.alphaindustries.com www.undefeated.com

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The UNDEFEATED x Alpha Industries x Burton collaboration brings authentic street and military style to Burtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premium lineup. The result: a collective force thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s built to thrive in winter weather.

Burton.com

13.10.15 16:23

met·a·mor·pho·sis the cycle of life grooves

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Poncho: »el curandero« (the healer) Army and Deer leather. Pants: »Alacran« (scorpion) Army Pants with Deer leather side pockets. Limited edition hand made garments crafted in the NorthWest of British Columbia on Army and deer leather.

Incense, Truly Hand Crafted in British Colombia in a deer leather bag, that will joy every single soul.

Metamorphosis was founded in 2013 by the Brother of Wolves and the Brother of Owls with the vision of creating a conscientious apparel brand, designed to find its way to those seeking a higher level of connectivity and consciousness. Inspired by nature and the transformative nature of this journey called life; Metamorphosis takes inspiration from the cycle of life within the Living Planet. »The planet needs healing and our vision is to create an environmentally conscious line, which supports fair trade with indigenous people in North America, Central America, and South America. Our commitment is to provide an elevated offer with premium high quality materials and prolific graphics-while always looking to support local shamans. With the utmost respect to nature we are not merely providing pieces, we are providing an opportunity to support a greater cause: the Healing of the Planet. We look back to the beginning of the journey when we were connected with and dependent on Nature. We reflect on a time when nature healed and all creatures were equal and respected. We look forward to a future when we all connect and depend on each other, when Nature shall once again be respected and empowered to heal us. We are interested in seeing who will feel the pull and gravitate towards the cause. Children of Nature to Nature shall return as we are all in a constant State of Metamorphosis.«

Graphic T-Shirt: »peyote collar« 100% organic cotton and hand dye

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Graphic »Hikuri« peyote, deer & freedom are the same soul. Our aesthetics & philosophy printed in an Oxford shirt. Reaching altered states of consciousness, nomads, savages, rebels, shamans and contemporary primitives are the tribe of this generation.

www.metamorphosis888.com

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»Metamorphosis«, Craft, Soul, Freedom & Nature, is all what fuels our new collection where every single piece brings you that nostalgic Native American avant-garde that is part of our essence. This makes us proud to be the only brand representing Native America in this industry world wide, with our own soul, a very limited edition collection and far from the mainstream, where we are so proud producing and trading techniques with craftsmanship & immense nature inspired philosophy, where we can offer an authentic identity on each piece we produce!« – Rafael Trujillo

Graphic T-Shirt: »Camazotz« (bat God), 100% organic Cotton with an image of one of the most influential shaman of the darkness of this era, Attila Csihar. Pants: »Salvaje« (savaje) crust punk army pants with printed patches.

M65 Alacran (scorpion) Army Jacket.

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PALLY’HI Allround Merino Gear

»Life is an adventure, but not everybody wants to wear performance clothing that makes them look like part of a Mt. Everest expedition.«

Pally’Hi is a subsidiary of Amplid, the ski and snowboard company founded by multiple snowboard World Champion, Peter Bauer. Pally’Hi produces garments for snowboarders and skiers, surfers and skateboarders, bikers and hikers, and anybody else, who sees the benefits of wearing Merino. Pally’Hi uses the highest quality Australian Merino wool for its clothing. The Wool structure of Merino sheep is adapted to extreme conditions. When the temperature is high the wool keeps the skin of the sheep cool and when the weather is cold the sheep are insulated from it. Plus – Merino wool has the finest fibre diameter of any sheep variety, resulting in a soft, »non-scratchy« feel. The style of the clothing is performance driven, nevertheless urban-inspired resulting in lightweight, warm, breathable, anti-bacterial and odour resistant apparel that is not only adequate as base layer or gym wear but perfect for almost every occasion. Words by: EH

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Michael – Sweater: adidas Originals, Pants: Lee PHOTOGRAPHY: LISA PARDEY – WWW.LISAPARDEY.DE STYLING, HAIR & MAKE UP: SARA MAGIELKA – WWW.SARA-MAGIELKA .COM MODELS: LISA, SARAH – WWW.AQUAMARINEMODELS.COM PHIL – WWW.ETAGEMANAGEMENT.COM | MICHAEL , VIVIAN, THILO, SARAH S H O O T — 36 —

Vivian – Knits: Sessun

s h o o t — 37 —

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Lisa – Knits: Sessun

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Thilo – Sweater: adidas Originals, Beanie: New Era, Pants: Carhartt

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Sarah – Roll Neck: Sessun

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Phil – Jacket: adidas Originals, Pants: Lee, Shirt: Vans

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Made in Brooklyn: The Essential Guide to the Borough’s Artisanal Food and Drink Makers

In the last 10 years or so, Brooklyn has become the epitome of a sociological phenomenon known as »The Hipster«. What or who in the 21 st century that exactly is, seems not really decipherable. Another, more interesting phenomenon has emerged in Brooklyn over the past decade which is associated to 21 st century hipsterism – The craft food and drink movement. The Brooklyn Chamber of Commerce launched a certified Brooklyn Made label to ensure the authenticity of local goods. And this is what Made in Brooklyn is about: shops, markets and liquor stores that feature Brooklyn-made foods and goods. A list of shops, markets, websites, and

an informal walking tour, presenting different Brooklyn makers profiled in depth with special attention paid to their craft, method, and personal histories. A variety of makers, new and old, including Acme Smoked Fish, Bagel Hole, Fox’s U-Bet, Grady’s Cold Brew, Jacques Torres Chocolates, Pelzer’s Pretzels, Salty Road and Van Brunt Stillhouse are shown in this beautifully photographed reference book. Mandatory credit line: From Made in Brooklyn by Susanne König and Melissa Schreiber Vaughan; Photography by Heather Weston; published by powerHouse Books.

J.W. Overbey & CO. I Year Established : 2013 I Owner: Joseph Overbey I Product: Bourbon I Website: jwoverbey.com

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ISBN: 9781576877609

www.powerhousebooks.com

Mama O’s Premium Kimchi I Year Established : 2007 I Owner: Kheedim Oh I Product: Kimchi I Website: kimchirules.com

By Melissa Schreiber Vaughan, Susanne König and Heather Weston

HUF and Harold Hunter Foundation Latest donation

»Legends never die« » …the lost boys, … a family of boys just rolling through the streets of NY kind of taking care of each other and themselves …«

www.hufworldwide.com www.haroldhunter.org

Jessica Forsyth (Executive Director & Co-Founder of the HHF) about Harold and his crew:

Harold Hunter was an icon of New York Skateboarding culture when he had to left for some reasons at the early age of 31 years. His friendly and charismatic personality in combination with his wide range of talents and activities like even an acting role in the legendary movie »kids« brought him respect and friendships all over the world. His legacy continues since 2007 with the Harold Hunter Foundation (HHF), which also promotes a large portfolio of projects in order to support and influence Skateboarding and the youth culture in the way Harold did in his lifetime. The latest donation to the foundation results in collaboration between his also native New Yorker friend Keith Hufnagel and HUF and the Harlold Hunter Foundation coming across with a T-shirt and a pair of socks this fall 2015 in Skate Shops worldwide for a limited timeframe. Products will contain portraits of Harold shot by Giovanni Reda and Ari Marcopoulos. Words by: Joachim Offenbacher

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Mighty Healthy NYLKOORB, Kroy Wen

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Denis Iderman and Ray Mate started the brand Mighty Healthy in 2004. The brands name refers to a song of Wu-Tang Clan member Ghostface Killah that was released in 2000. And this song actually was inspired by Divine Force’s quite mean »Holy War« song. Oh, Mighty Healthy is a true New York brand and is proud of that. Likes the attitude and transfers it into clothing. They also love skateboarding. Spontaneous, diverse, fast, competitive, limitless, well inspiring for sure. Like the city that never sleeps? It’s street. It is not beach or mountain gear. Like they say: »Once in a while, a film, an album, or an artist comes along and by pointing out the idiosyncrasies of everyday life, creates something that we are all forced to recognize from that point forward. In this tradition we present the first, one and only progressive street brand, Mighty Healthy.« Mighty Healthy has a strong commitment to quality and individualized expression shown in all of their gear; still against homogenous streetwear their classic hats »Kroy Wen« and »NYLKOORB« skate along these days in leather. Like the season itself marked by transformation, they just celebrate to see something you love in an entirely new way. New artist collaborations with old writing hand Kevin Lyons or a graphic design by Morning Beach will hit the shelves of global streetwear dealers this Fall season. Exceptional is the collaboration with the brand Mishka.

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Mighty Healthy vs. Mishka Collection

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Okay first a verse on Mishka. Almost at the same age than Mighty Healthy, it was founded in Brooklyn 2003. Mikhail Bortnik and Greg Rivera started to do cool shirts first, till now they grew constantly and develop a full line of outstanding pieces of clothing. - The “do it yourself” ethics of 1980s New York City is the heart that beats at the center of Mishka“, they say. A True love for originality pushes their limits of what is considered to be normal and has crafted a distinct world for itself and its legion of Death Adders. NYC native and co-founder Ray Mate was kind enough to let us know what’s the main idea behind the brand to brand collaboration with NYC’s Mishka brand. »Battling is where true legends are made. Whether it be

dropping bars in a freestlye battle or pulling tricks in a game of SKATE. Competition elevates and one’s greatness is defined by their adversary. It is in the spirit of the battle that the Mighty Healthy vs. Mishka line is about to hit the streets. Two brands that have been defining skateboarding culture for over a decade are about to go head-to-head. And the stakes are so high; it could only be represented in the world of comic books, a perfect medium to capture the otherworldly intensity of combat. Blows will be thrown; bodies will be left in the dirt. Go get your’s before the fists start flying.« The Mighty Healthy vs. Mishka pieces are featuring the artwork of Lamour Supreme.

www.mightyhealthy.com @mightyhealthyny www.mishkanyc.com @mishkagram

Puma and ICNY reflective piping

Why socks? »Because when the light hits cyclists’ feet that are in motion, the result is a strobe-like effect of reflectivity, allowing the wearer to be highly visible from hundreds of feet away by vehicles, other cyclists, and pedestrians all sharing the road.« – Mike Cherman, Head of ICNY

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Three years ago, while riding his bike down a Brooklyn road, a car hit designer and sportsman Mike Cherman. »I didn’t see you!« was reason enough to elaborate an idea; to start designing stylish yet functional clothing. New York is the place and a first step needed to be made. Mike decided to take 3M reflective fabrics and hand press them onto a pair of socks. Why socks? »Because when the light hits cyclists’ feet that are in motion, the result is a strobelike effect of reflectivity, allowing the wearer to be highly visible from hundreds of feet away by vehicles, other cyclists, and pedestrians all sharing the road.« ICNY was born. The goal: providing more safety and increased visibility to stylish outdoor garments. It is obvious that urban sports became more and more popular, forming a huge demand and stimulating the exploration of boundaries with fashion and function, urban aesthetics and athletics. The evolution of these garments has been taking place for a while now and hi-visibility is a good and necessary point in these concepts. Sure we all can remember the fit of laughter when runners passed by only some years ago. Therefore it is good to see a big change in the activity gear. PUMA and ICNY already teamed up in 2014 but now they come up to launch a full-on debut collection. The teamwork provides a mixmatch of ICNY technical clothing and Puma footwear. Simple reason: keep people safe during their activity and looking good doing it. The ICNY Apparel features a selection of

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performance styles that incorporate the jumping Puma logo in its design. The classic Puma Trinomic R698 runner got a nice and futuristic makeover to complete the head to toe set. The footwear comes in four different colors to choose from: Black, Fiery Red and Fluo Yellow have reflective piping and the fourth one is made of allover reflective silver. To shine even in the darkest hour the clothes also feature all-over reflective textures, pipings or prints to make sure you are visible. Cool cuts, a big portion of passion for details and some serious technical materials got injected with street style sensibilities to make these clothes a feast for the eyes. A short while ago NYC headz had the chance to visit the launch of the first ICNY Popup Shop, powered by Puma celebrating the status and the journey of the Brooklyn-born alternative sportswear brand.

The Puma Trinomic R698 × ICNY X3M makes a statement in its own right, in allover reflective silver material.

The ICNY Performance Jacket is the heart of this collection with attention to details, featuring PUMA’s stormCELL Force 2 Technology with an all over reflective texture.

»The ICNY Pop Up Shop, powered by PUMA, celebrates the evolution and the journey of the Brooklyn-born alternative sportswear brand. It’s an opportunity to showcase the collection – to let it live, breathe and be experienced by their friends and supporters through its unique merchandise, community events, personalized products and so much more.« – Mike Cherman, Head of ICNY Open Gallery Space 355A Bowery, New York

www.puma.com www.icnysport.com

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PHOTOGRAPHER: TOBIAS WIRTH WWW.TOBIAS-WIRTH.DE FASHION STYLIST: JULIA QUANTE WWW.PERFECTPROPS.DE HAIR & MAKE-UP STYLIST: KIM KEUSEN WWW.N-MANAGEMENT.BLOGSPOT.COM MODEL: MAGALI WWW.MEGAMODELAGENCY.COM PHOTOGRAPHERS ASSISTANT: SARAH KOCH

ma th il da

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T-Shirt: Fonnesbech | Pants: 7 For All Mankind | Necklace: Stylist’s own | Bag: Frye

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S S T T WW 22 DD

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Jacket: Tiger of Sweden | Top: Samsoe Samsoe | Jeans Shorts: Levi’s | Necklace: Stylist’s own

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DC × SHUT Skates Sharks 1986 The hook of the immortal archetype of NYC Skateboarding and the renowned action sports brand

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Originally started by Rodney Smith and Bruno Musso in 1986, Shut is NYC Skateboarding brand of the first hour. The lack of the California dream like having an infrastructure with a huge amount of backyard ramps and pools made these guys form the unique Skateboarding style and culture as it is still today. The rough streets of NYC with and endless supply of banks, curbs and ledges embedded in the urban architecture was the chosen playground. Going through some transformation since the start, including the launch and sale of the company Zoo York, the twenties birthday in 2006 was reason enough for Rodney Smith, Eli Morgan Gesner and Adam Schatz to get back to their Skateboarding roots and to where they started from: a dirty warehouse. Since then, they continue their success story as a shop and brand in one with a wide range of activities and collaborations to keep the torch of NYC Skateboarding culture blazing. As OG SHUT Team member Jefferson Pang found his way through the industry and now holds the position of DC’s Sales Director, it’s quite understandable that DC teamed

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www.shutnyc.com

www.haroldhunter.org

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»It is a big high five that exudes much respect given to each other for both of our brands’ contributions to the continued growth of skateboarding and all action sports alike.«

up with SHUT for a collaboration hitting the shelves this fall. »DC’s partnership with SHUT runs much deeper than this collection of co-branded products. Both companies have been backing each other for decades and look to keep Harold Hunter’s legacy alive«, said Megan Easley, director of marketing for DC Shoes. As a tribute to the early days, the iconic Shark motive was chosen to emplaze the collection containing a hoody, four shirts and and the Lynx Prestige S SHUT shoe. Important to mention is that a portion of the proceeds from the collection will be donated to the Harold Hunter Foundation in order to support social projects for young people in NYC. Words by: Jo Offenbacher

www.dcshoes.com

Rodney Smith, founder and CEO of SHUT

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Erik Wolsky feel that energy

Erik Wolsky, Global Brand Manager for Levi’s Skateboarding shot by Jeff Landi

San Francisco based first league denim player Levi’s took its way to conquer New York via Levi’s Skateboarding brand.

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Coming on the radar of the Skateboarding community with the support of several Skatepark projects like »Builders Jam« and »Pura Pura Park La Paz«, the brand expanded their field of activities also to NYC with the support of some very interesting projects. Reason enough for us to chat with the Global Brand Manager of Levi’s Skateboarding, Erik Wolsky, to get some thoughts about NYC itself, projects, the mission and pizza.

Dear Erik, may I kindly ask you to give our readers a short introduction of yourself and describe a typical working day: I am Erik Wolsky, Global Brand Manager for Levi’s Skateboarding, amongst other programs. There is no typical day! I’m in and out of the office, meeting with people internally and externally. That’s the best part of the job, all of the relationships I’ve been able to develop, all the friends I’ve made, it’s the best part about the skateboarding community. How did you make your way through the business jungle towards Levi’s Skateboarding? It’s a long story. Let’s just say right place, right time. I started in Finance with my face planted in Excel spread sheets every day. Someone recognized that my interests didn’t really match back to spread sheets and offered me an opportunity with product. From there, marketing became an even better fit for my interests and strengths.

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As this issue is dedicated to the City New York, what does the City mean to you from a personal perspective and on the other hand from a business and marketing point of view? New York City is the greatest city in the world. The cultures, the energy of the people, the music and art scenes, they’re really unmatched. When you’re there, you can feel that energy. It’s no joke. There’s so much talent there to work with from a business and marketing standpoint, and if you reach the right people there with your marketing, you’re out in front of the world. How did one thing came to the other in order to start Levi’s Skateboarding in general and in addition from a project perspective, describe a bit the process from the creation of the first idea, the planning and evaluation phase towards the realization at the end. Please keep a focus on activities in the big apple as well. N Y P E O P L E — 70 —

The whole skateboarding program started with having a good product developed. We created classic looking Levi’s jeans and pants but with added benefits to skateboarders – more durable fabric, more comfortable stretch, reinforcements in all the areas where skateboarders blowout their pants. The marketing simply followed those principles. By providing support for

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skateboarding communities with our marketing dollars, we’re actually able to support with product and marketing. The first project was a proposal to help out with a build project in Bangalore, to provide funds for materials. Our heritage is work wear, our product is built to stand wear and tear, and that’s when the light bulb came on! Let’s make our program about supporting build projects and supporting communities around the world with access to skateboarding. That project was followed by builds in Johannesburg, La Paz, Oakland, Copenhagen, and there are many more to come. Our projects in New York started simply by visiting skate shops that carry our product. Traveling around to several shops all over the US, providing funds for a small party and screening the documentary from our La Paz build The combination of Party and Skate Session are melted project. The second project was together in the Black Bear Bar. How did you came across partnering with HUF and supportthis interesting project? ing a bowl build inside of Black Bear Bar in Brooklyn while also Jessica Wertz from Black Bear Bar and Amy Gunther partnering with Converse to supfrom KCDC skate shop originally came up with the idea. port the Winter Bowl build, also KCDC used to have a ramp in their shop that people in Brooklyn. While NY has plenty would skate during the winter, and then it went away of well-known skate spots, they when they moved locations. Black Bear had the space certainly don’t have them in the and when they approached us to support it with HUF winter! These were both indoor as a partner, it was a no brainer. We’d been doing work and provided a place for people to in remote regions of the world, and being able to do skate throughout those months. something to support New York skateboarding was a nice ad on to the other work. In terms of the event we held, it was the first of 3 screenings of our Skateboarding in Oakland documentary. We flew out with K-Dub (the community leader in charge of Town Park Skate Park in Oakland) and had him represent Oakland skateboarding in Brooklyn. That was so much fun and people loved having the bowl in there all winter Tell us a bit about the NYC Levi’s Skateboarding and Quartersnacks Collabo. That was another great opportunity to support east coast skateboarding and DIY. Shorty’s in Newark was an existing DIY spot that needed some help. We partnered with Quartersnacks to provide the resources needed. It was an easy but important thing for us to do, to continue to help communities in the US, while bouncing around other parts of the world. Kosta at Quartersnacks is super easy to work with too. He just gets it, gets us, and what we want to do, so we can have an easy partnership with very little effort. What made you choose exactly these kinds of events and activities? Which criteria’s are important for Levi’s when picking on several Skateboarding related projects? We first make sure the partners we choose are thinking the same way we are. The idea needs to fall under the larger idea – support skateboarding. It can show up in — 71 —

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liked, didn’t like, and what they wished they had. We asked what makes a brand cool to them, what makes a larger brand okay, etc. We took all of that feedback to develop our product and our marketing. We don’t sit in the office thinking »look what we created,« we are well aware that this product and our marketing projects are a direct result of the skateboarding community telling us what they wanted. That, to me, is what really makes the company unique. Pair a humble approach with 150 years of experience makso many ways, big and small. Everything from a shop ing jeans, and you can create something event to support their activities and communities, to a special. large scale build in a region of the world that is lacking resources. It’s a fairly open idea, but also defined in the You pay a lot of attention of Skaters’ experinature of the program. We’ve chosen all of our projects ences and requirements in order to develop because we met the right people, who had the right what is really needed for Skateboarding ideas, and the ideas really just made sense for both of clothes. Who is involved in the development us. It’s not about Levi’s defining what should be done, and design process? it’s about us meeting and working with people who need the support to bring their ideas to life. The process involved skateboarders of all What makes New York Skateboarding unique in your eyes? ages, from all over the world. Feedback on a range of products was given to us, as well as a wish list for their clothing and What I like is the skateboarding culture that comes out of the New York. It feels grittier. It’s a massive city, with what a brand offers them. We were able to identify all of the stress points in a pair of tons of people, and crazy weather. There’s just somepants and address them without changing thing about it that feels like – you’ve given us nothing the look of them. You get a classic Levi’s to work with and look what we did with it. There aren’t the luxuries you get in California with all of the massive jean/pant, but constructed with extremely durable fabric with Cordura for abrasion parks and sunny weather. It’s like they took the city and made it into a massive park themselves. It’s so rad. resistance and Lycra stretch for mobility, reinforced back pockets and belt loops, and most importantly bar tacks on the Please continue: crotch seams to keep them from blowing a) 3 aspects that describe New York the best: out. It’d be my favorite jean even if I didn’t Energy, Creativity, Hustle work here! b) You have to visit New York, because: It’s the greatest city on earth. c) Skateboarding Culture in New York is: Uniquely New York. Their style is all their own. d) While in New York, you should meet: Pizza Please give us a brief history lesson of the relationship between Skateboarding and Levi’s. Skateboarders have been wearing Levi’s for some 40+ years. While there hasn’t been a direct connection to Skateboarding until more recently, Levi’s Jeans have always been known to be durable and well made. They’ve been a part of skateboarding style from skinny black jeans to the baggiest jeans ever skated. The product today was created because skateboarders today are skating harder and slamming harder than ever. Just trying to keep up with the needs they have for their clothes. What makes Levi’s Skateboarding unique in Skateboarding / Streetwear apparel jungle of brands?

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I think Levi’s as a brand, regardless of the particular fashion segment, has always done a good job of talking to the people that wear them before deciding what to make. We spoke with kids from all over the world, gave them several brand’s jeans, and asked them what they

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Tommy Guerrero is sometimes associated with Levi’s Skateboarding as well. Is there some collaboration or do you just share the same city (Levi’s HQ San Francisco)? We love Tommy. He’s a friend, and we like to support him when we can. He’s just such a great guy, and always a pleasure to see him around. Dude’s always smiling! What is the peer group of customers you focus on? We went all over the world for customer feedback. There isn’t one group that influences the decisions. We aren’t looking at what other brands are doing to make our decisions either. We just try to do things that make the most sense for our brand to be doing. Remember, we’re not a skateboarding brand. We have to always keep that at the front of our minds. Very discreet branding and a very well chosen Marketing Strategy concerning Social Media presence are characteristically for Levi’s Skateboarding. What are the main ideas and intentions behind it instead of going with the big bang like other comparable brands?

Anything special concerning upcoming projects which you have in the pipeline and which you would like to share with us? Yeah we have a few projects lined up this year. We just finished with a build in Pine Ridge, South Dakota, to support the kids on the Pine Ridge Reservation. That one is really important to us, being in the US, and in a neglected area. We’ve been documenting that one and will have a video to show how inspirational the kids are and what skateboarding means to them. Grindline built that park, and have been extremely supportive with that and finishing Town Park in Oakland. They do such an amazing job. We’re also building a park in Christchurch, New Zealand, kicking off in August.

Levi.com/skateboarding @levisskateboarding #supportskateboarding

To make a really long answer short – We’re doing what makes sense for our brand. We’re not a skateboarding brand, we are a workwear brand. We make pants that are better for skateboarding, that last longer, because of our 150 years of experience making jeans for workers. We have a long history of philanthropy, from the very beginning of Levi Strauss & Co. I think it’s important to be humble, and know your roots. Minimal branding is part of being humble, I guess. If you do good work, people will know you did it, and will talk about it.

Sometimes you just have to trust your gut at the beginning. Especially when your measurements are things like social media interaction. People are slowly learning and understanding what we’ve been doing. The most important thing we’re seeing is the overwhelmingly positive response and encouragement from a community that sometimes can be a little sensitive towards a larger brand like us. There were a couple of options for us, I guess. The obvious one was to dump all of our money into a big campaign, and that will get everyone’s eyes for that moment, no doubt. That wasn’t the route we felt most comfortable with though. We’ve been putting it into communities. We document it for the world to be able to see, and hopefully be inspired by these great people doing great things in skateboarding. I think success with this approach requires consistency. It’s not a gimmick; it’s something we really believe in here. Thanks a lot for your time.

Words by: Joachim Offenbacher All Bolivia and Black Bear photos were shot by Jonathan Mehring | The Erik Wolsky portrait was shot by Jeff Landi | Other Shots by Levi’s

NEW YORK IS a huge city full of gorgeous people, inspiration and pizza. Never forget the pizza! I actually have a pin on my trucker jacket that says »I (heart) Pizza« so that’s what you get from me.

Final question: Are your (potential) customers aware of the stuff you are running for the Skateboarding community worldwide. How do you ensure that this Marketing Strategy leads to a success story?

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Simon – Sweater: Topman | Jeans: Levi’s | Belt: Edwin Nadja – Coat: Henrik Vibskov | Jacket: Burton

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Nadja – Jacket: Edwin | Top: Bobby Kolade | Jeans: Levi’s

Nadja – Jacket: Edwin | Top: Bobby Kolade | Jeans: Levi’s Simon – Polo: Ben Sherman | Turtleneck: Uniqlo | Jacket: Burton

Simon – Turtleneck: Uniqlo | Vest: Joseph | Jeans: Edwin | Sneakers: Nike | Socks: Nike

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Simon – Jacket: Levi’s | Turtleneck: Ben Sherman | Jeans: Cheap Monday | Belt: Levi’s

Simon – Coat: Topman | Sweatpants: WoodWood | Vest: Barbour | Sneakers: Veja | Socks: Stance

Nadja – Turtleneck: WoodWood | Earrings: Malene Birger

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Simon – Polo: Ben Sherman | Turtleneck: Uniqlo | Jacket: Nike

Nadja – Jacket: Ben Sherman x Alpha Industries | Jeans: Mavi Jeans | Top: Bobby Kolade | Earrings: Malene Birger

Nadja – Fur Jacket: Filippa K. | Denim Jacket: Cheap Monday | Sweater: Markus Lupfer | Jeans: Paige

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MERYL MEISLER Purgatory & Paradise: Sassy 70 s Suburbia & the City

Meryl Meisler was born in the South Bronx in the mid 50 s. She moved to New York City in 1975 and has worked as a freelance illustrator and photographer as well as a public school art teacher in Bushwick. The photography’s in this book are a remarkable collection of 70s disco era images, contrasting disparate moments in the history of New York, published almost 40 years after they’ve been shot. Images of »looking like a third world country« New York, juxtaposed with pictures of typical suburban family situations or sweaty disco decadence. Meryl carried Carrying her camera everywhere she went and took pictures of The South Bronx, suburbia, The Mystery Club, dance lessons, Girl Scouts, the Rockettes, the circus, school, mitzvahs, proms, weddings, gay Fire Island, the Hamptons, feminists, happy hookers, CBGB, Punks, Disco, After Hours and Go-Go Bars, Jewish and LGBT Pride, street life, home theatrics, holidays, friendship, family and love. The title is based on Dante Alighieri’s 14 th century poem extraordinaire »Divine Comedy« that describes his travels through Hell, Purgatory and Paradise. A perfect allegory for New York in the seventies.

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»After graduation, I moved to New York and sublet a room from my cousin Elaine Rosner. I set up a darkroom in the laundry room while studying with Lisette Model, who loved and encouraged my B&W medium format series of family and friends. The city was in fiscal and social turmoil, and I was in transition and chaos myself. My parents were divorcing, and I’d recently ›come out‹. My Rosner cousins introduced me to artists, writers, musicians, feminists, activists, and intellectuals. We hung out inn East Harlem and the Lower East Side with Latinos, African-Americans Asians, and a wide variety of New Yorkers.«

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www.merylmeisler.com www.bizarrebushwick.com

Meryl Meisner

Bizarre Publishing; 1st edition (2015) ISBN: 978-0991014132

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www.sophieday.nyc

Sophie Day for ALIFE & G-SHOCK Represent where you’re from!

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Actually it is all about a cool watch. But first let us introduce you to Sophie Day, a teenage photographer from New York. The 18-year old is documenting New York’s youth and makes fundamental portraits of teens some clothed but others not. For the G-Shock Alife project she was engaged to also shoot a short film capturing diverse NY creative locals. The result feels authentic and offhanded without any script. All that happens is real for these cool and creative youngsters. It is a creative mindset that takes focus in-between joy / happiness and dramatic art. Within the next pages we present the photographic stills she did during the video filming.

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www.alifenewyork.com www.gshock.com

Next to those teenage role models there is a cool new G-Shock model featured on their wrists. The new GDX6900AL-2 timepiece draws inspiration by American artist, Jasper Johns and his acclaimed flag paintings of the 1950 s. The watch has those patriotic stars and stripes coating the entire timepiece. The look feels vintage due to the little bleached out color management simulating the style John used throughout his career. For sure the Alife logo sits on the wristband to manifest this collaboration. The piece comes with all great features the G-Shock tech rider has to offer including a special blue box and a red and white watch tin with an equally patriotic feel. Represent where you’re from!

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TRAUMATICALLY REALISM

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new york ex Jose Mertz why limit yourself to your senses?

THIS ARE SOMEHOW VISIONS TO ME, AT FIRST SOMEWHAT ODD. WHENCE DO YOU SCOOP IT ALL FROM?

YOU WERE BORN IN NY, AND HAVE LIVED THERE FOR A LONG TIME. ARE THERE ANY TELLURIAN POWERS CONNECTED TO THIS PLACE TO YOU? WHAT IS THE CONNECTION? Yes, Yes! I was born in Queens, NY, St. Johns Hospital. Unfortunately the hospital no longer exists. I moved back in 2002, and lived there until 2008, around Washington Heights, Harlem and the Bronx – Gun Hill Rd whaddup! New York is a supernatural place, man. It’s electric with talent and ambition. I always feel a strong connection when I am back in the city and link with friends and creative companies. I love the slight level of urgency and excitement to do fun and interesting projects.

WHEREFROM, DO YOU BELIEVE, DO YOUR IMAGES COME FROM?

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I have always been a lover of sci-fi and fantasy, as well as contemporary art, comics and the mystic arts. Things like Kung Fu, Magic and Shamanism have always captured my attention since a young one. I started looking around and realized that, I am in somewhat of a science fiction world right now: inbetween architecture, fashion, technology and spiritual advancement. I feel, that I am just adding on to the already existing complex dimension we live in.

WHAT IS THE POWER SOURCE OF ALL THIS? Curiosity and the human need to connect with other beings.

YOUR THEMES ARE NEVER RESIDED IN ACTUALITY. THERE IS NOTHING REAL . WHY? I believe it’s both real and not real. It’s real in the world beyond the veil of the paper, as well as how real the viewer wants it to be. I think of artists like Mathew Barney sometimes and ask the same thing: »is this real or not? or maybe it IS real ’cause I am seeing it, but I just can’t touch it for real …« hmmm?

DO YOU PURPOSE TO IRRITATE, WHILE DISTRACTING FROM CONDITIONS OF THE MUNDANE? Pretty much. If I can get people to raise their eyebrows and be like »woah!« or »man that’s interesting!«, then I feel like I am doing what I have to do and it’s working. If they understand my reasons for doing it – or don’t, is not so much of my concern. As long as the viewer gets mentally stimulated and inspired, it is fuel for the fire to me.

Some of the images come from a mood or a being of some kind, I might see in a dream. Sometimes I see someone with an interesting face or body structure and I will then draw it into a mutated guardian or a sage. I believe we are all seeking for meaning; and it’s fun to bounce ideas from reality into a whimsical surreal world.

YOU ARE BRINGING UP DREAMS REGARDING THE IGNITIONS. WHICH COMES OUT OF YOUR DREAMS IN THESE PAINTINGS? UNDERGONE THINGS, EXPERIENCES? HOW DOES IT CONNECT (IF IT DOES)? CAN YOU DESCRIBE IT? Dreams to me are a fluid concept. Who is to say, that even, when we are »awake«, this is not a rendition of a dream? Everything we know is merely based on the limited info of our senses. I feel like, when I am drawing these moments with these beings, they actually do exist on another plane. I have to submit to this possibility, so that I can bring ’em out in the drawings. Sometimes the images come from personal experiences and I am sure some psycologists will say, they are all self portraits. LOL.

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YOU ARE ADDRESSING ANCIENT CIVILISATIONS, EASTERN PHILOSOPHIES AND DEITIES, AT TIMES IN FORMS OF CHIMAERAS AND SO FORTH. THEY COULD BE HUMAN FIGURES WITH ANIMAL HEADS. QUITE BIZARRE. CAN YOU EXPLAIN THIS? Historically speaking, humans and animals have always meshed in art; by trying to explain the spirit world, as well as by visually describing the rage, the inner strength and the gentle qualities of energy, we experience as a life form and as individuals. Egyptians, Mayans and Inca all have these kind of hybrid figures, which they had integrated into their everyday life. They are archetypes, that common people admired and looked up to for guidance and wisdom; quite crucial to regular living people in our civilizations today, even though they do appear just as sculptures or paintings. The idea, that we give so much importance to art and give it so much power is amazing to me and somewhat bizarre. Sometimes one might need the strength of a tiger

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to get through something in his/her personal life and will try to channel this inner strength. Although they are mechanisms to cope with and to find meaning, they are representational lifeforms, which we can relate to. Check out Joseph Cambells »Power of Myth«. This was a good intro for me to start developing these kind of images.

WHAT IS IT, THAT YOU WANT TO MAKE PERCEPTIBLE OR PALPABLE THROUGH THESE PICTURES? Mainly, that the world of imagination is always parallel with the present »real« moment and, that these beings or creatures will always manifest as a reflection of the human ego as well as a development for the spirit. words by: MvD

www.josemertz.com

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NEW YORK IS magic; anything can happen here. – Miya Ando, artist

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Miya Ando & Element Eden live, learn, grow

»By turning such a demanding strength of precious metal into an almost meditative and peaceful work of art, Miya Ando explores reflectivity and light in a minimalistic and Zen The clothing of the Element brand is known to feature creative output of their advocates from all over the world. reductive way.« Especially if it comes to Element Eden’s selection of fe-

Element Eden featuring their advocate Miya Ando wearing the »Transformation Jumper«.

The line consists of a several outstanding pieces. The Mandala Tee, the Galaxy and Fadient Dress, a Monk or Transformation Jumper and a scarf, beanie and some pants called Dusk. Her color-fading theme is obvious as it also appears in her art.

Miya Ando at work with her »Fadient Dress«

male protagonists we already saw a wide range of great clothing styles. For this winter season it was Miya Ando’s turn to bring her art and passion into fashion – to translate and manifest her personal style on clothing. Miya is half-Japanese, half-Russian and a 16 th generation descendant of Bizen sword makers. The Bizen region is considered to be the origin for the manufacturing of those traditional Japanese swords. She was raised there in a temple, but later moved to the mountains of Northern California with her Buddhist priest parents. Now a trained goldsmith herself and based in New York, she is working magnificently with steel canvases.

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adidas. Styled by Street Etiquette a full-brand presentation

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Photography: Street Etiquette | Styling: Street Etiquette Photography Assistant: Filmore Bouldes | Models: Yahrock Bates & Patrice Julion

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www.adidas.com #adidas

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www.streetetiquette.com #streetetiquette

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All clothing by adidas

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David Gensler »Innovation is a forest fire …« WHO ARE YOU AND WHAT EXACTLY DO YOU DO? I am a Designer, that takes broad liberties of applying the term “Designer” to everything I do; Business Management, Strategy, Product Development, Planning, Team Building, Economics, Technology, etc.

WHY NOT JUST FOCUS ON ONE THING? DESIGN OR MARKETING OR MANAGEMENT OR...? We live in a hyper fast, forever changing and morphing reality – to be ONE thing means that you anchor yourself to someone else’s limitations. I want to drive Innovation and to do so, you have to focus on many things and master many skills – then through your own personal intuition – you can leave your fingerprints on real change.

YOU RECENTLY COMPLETED TWO POSTGRADUATE DEGREES? AND HOW HAS IT CHANGED YOUR WORK? I recently completed a Ph.D in Applied Economics and another in Data Science, with a focus on weaponizing data. It has completely changed my outlook on how I approach problems and ultimately brought everything back to where I started, Design. Design cannot exist in a bubble by itself – it is not a »thing« – it is a process that needs to engage and affect all other aspects of business strategy, management and growth.

DO I NOW HAVE TO CALL YOU DOCTOR? Please don’t! Unless you can give me one of those special license plates that allows me to park anywhere in NYC without getting tickets!

SO, YOU RECENTLY EXITED YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH LEICA CAMERA. WHY AND WHAT IS NEXT? I started my professional career and education in photography - and I always loved classic brands like Leica, Hasselblad, Mamiya, etc. It was an honor to have had the opportunity to work with such an amazing brand, especially during such a critically important part of the company’s history (100 year anniversary). My goal was two parted, first to help Leica accelerate and control the global user culture and second, to turn the data generated from the user interaction to fuel new product innovation. We accomplished the Culture agenda in record time - but ultimately some companies are trapped in a prison of nostalgia. After testing what was possible, and seeing what was not possible inside their corporate culture - I decided to shift and work with other photography brands that were 100 % focused on the future and the pursuit of progressive innovation.

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WE RECENTLY SAW ADIDAS ADAPT YOUR #FUTURECRAFT IDEOLOGY / STRATEGY INTO A GLOBAL PROGRAM – THOUGHTS ON COMMENTS ON THIS? I am beyond honored, that a brand that I love (adidas) and embraced the ideology and expanded it and realized it on such a massive scale. I am excited to see what they come out with next, beyond the first 3d printing manifestation. FutureCraft was first coined in 2000 and initially realized in 2003, when we launched our SVSV fashion experiment. I was fascinated by how our relationship with our creative tools was changing – mostly due to the accelerated rate in which they were being developed or evolved. This is very important to a Designer or Brand Manager, especially when you think, we live in an age where the object is less consumed than the image - ultimately making it (the image) more value. So what this means is we need to focus equally on the physical object or experience, as much as the image or representation of the object or experience. The mastery of both sides of the object and image coin will ultimately play a major factor in creating innovation in the future.

SO, YOUR FOCUS WILL REMAIN PRIMARILY INNOVATION? Yes, but it is important to understand and define what »Innovation« means first. I personally see it as a never ending process that can be measured, scaled and replicated – that helps a company / brand maintain a more meaningful relationship with their audience. Innovation has always been, for the most part, focused on competition between two or more brands or ideas - but I think moving forward, the term itself will need to evolve so that more brands or ideas - but I think moving forward, the term itself will need to evolve so that and beyond. Words by: Joshua Henson

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@DavidGensler www.theKDU.com

»We live in an age where the object is less consumed than the image – ultimately making the image more valuable.« David Gensler

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Minders Readers

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All artworks by: Lee Trice www.tricenyc.com | @tricecat

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UNDERWAT ER LIFESTYLE

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All artworks by: Lee Trice

How the FUK Did he get theYeezies before me again ???

“NEW YORK IS NEVER NOT WORKING” LEE TRICE W W W.T R I C E N Y C .C O M @T R I C E C AT

M AT T H E W WA L D M A N W W W. N O O K A .C O M @ N O O K A _ G LO B A L — 123 —

“NEW YORK IS ... NOT PLAYIN WITH YOU – ONLY THE STRONG SURVIVE HERE.” J E F F STA P L E @ J E F F STA P L E @ STA P L E P I G E O N @ R E E D S PAC E

YOUNG GURU @Y O U N G G U R U 76 3 — 125 —

“NEW YORK IS ... HOME” P E T E R PA B O N W W W.T H E WA ST E DTA L E N T.C O M @T H E WA ST E DTA L E N T — 126 —

“NEW YORK IS A CITY OF CONSTANT MOTION” ST R E E T E T T I Q U T E W W W. ST R E E T E T I Q U E T T E .C O M @ ST R E E T E T T I Q U E T T E @ J O S H U A K I S S I @T R AV I S G U M B S

MICHAEL NICHOLAS W W W. D O E S I T E V E N M AT T E R .C O M @DIEMNY — 128 —

“NEW YORK IS BROOKLYN, BROOKLYN IS ME” T O M O K A Z U M AT S U YA M A W W W. M AT Z U . N E T @T O M O K A Z U M AT S U YA M A

SHUT W W W. S H U T N Y C .C O M @SHUTNYC — 130 —

ST E P H E N H O L D I N G W W W. ST E P H E N H O L D I N G .C O M @ ST E P H E N H O L D I N G — 131 —

J O R DA N B R AT T O N @ J O R DA N B R AT T O N — 132 —

RICKY POWELL W W W. R I C K Y P O W E L L .C O M @T H E L A Z Y H U ST L E R

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“NEW YORK IS A BITCH BUT SHE’S BEAUTIFUL AND WE CAN’T GET ENOUGH OF HER.” LEAH MCSWEENEY W W W. M T T M N Y C .C O M

@ M A R R I E DT OT H E M O B N Y

ALAN MALEH W W W. M A N O F T H E W O R L D .C O M @MANOFTHEWORLD

“NEW YORK IS DÉJÀ VU ALL OVER AGAIN” A B I O L A O K E , G I N N Y S U S S , DA N P E T R U Z Z I W W W.O K AY P L AY E R .C O M @ O K AY P L AY E R @ O K AYA F R I C A @ O K P S H O P — 137 —

“NEW YORK IS DONE” P H I L K N OT T W W W. P H I L K N OT T.C O M @ K N OT T P H I L — 138 —

TA S H A B L E U W W W.T R E U B L E U I M AG E R Y.C O M @TA S H A B L E U

“NEW YORK IS EVERYTHING” DJ CLARK KENT @DJCLARKKENT — 140 —

C H R I S V I DA L @FOODRAP

R AY M AT E W W W. M I G H T Y H E A LT H Y.C O M @ M I G H T Y H E A LT H Y

REBECCA BEARD W W W. R E B E C C A B E A R D .C O M @REBECCABEARD — 143 —

“NEW YORK IS ELECTRIC! THIS DYNAMIC CITY IS AN ENDLESS SOURCE OF INSPIRATION AND I’M BLESSED TO CALL IT HOME” ELLE W W W.W W W. E L L E ST R E E TA R T.C O M @ E L L E ST R E E TA R T

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M A D B U R Y C LU B W W W. M A D B U R Y C LU B .C O M @ M A D B U R Y C LU B — 147 —

I VA N U S KO KOV I C W W W. K M C A M E R A .C O M @ K M C A M E R A 1 9 76

“ H AWA I I ” M I K E S A L M A N @HWMK

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BRIAN PROCELL @PROCELL

KEVIN SAER LEONG @Y E L LO W K I D S L A N T Y — 151 —

“NEW YORK IS WHATEVER YOU WANT IT TO BE” L AU R A WA S S W W W.W X Y Z J E W E L R Y.C O M @WXYZJEWELRY

“NEW YORK IS ELECTRIC! THIS DYNAMIC CITY IS AN ENDLESS SOURCE OF INSPIRATION AND I’M BLESSED TO CALL IT HOME” LAMOUR SUPREME W W W.G H O ST C AV E .C O M @LAMOURSUPREME

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“NEW YORK IS OVER! IF YOU WANT IT” GREG RIVERA — 154 —

W W W. M I S H K A N Y C .C O M @ M I S H K AG R A M @GREGMISHKA

FUBZ

W W W.T H E S H I T S H O W R E V I E W.C O M @FUBZILLA — 155 —

C R E AT I V E C O N T R O L T V W W W.C R E AT I V E C O N T R O LT V.C O M COODIE SIMMONS @COODIEROCK CHIKE OZAH @COZAH — 156 —

“NEW YORK IS MY WORLD AND I LIVE, BREATHE AND EAT IT.” C L AW M O N E Y W W W.C L AW M O N E Y.C O M @ C L AW M O N E Y

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“NEW YORK IS POETRY IN MOTION” ERIC HAZE W W W. I N T E R H A Z E .C O M @ERICHAZENYC — 158 —

J O E AV E D I S I A N W W W. B R O O K LY N M AC H I N E W O R K S .C O M @ B R O O K LY N M AC H I N E W O R K S — 160 —

REGINALD PEAN W W W. R E G I N A L D P E A N .C O M @REGINALDPEAN — 161 —

CHRIS FORKERTS W W W.G P E N .C O M @GPENLIFE — 162 —

A N T L AVA @A N T L AVA N Y C

D E I R D R E M A LO N E Y W W W.C A P S U L E S H O W.C O M @ D E I R D R E M A LO N Y @CAPSULESHOW

“NEW YORK IS KEEPING ME YOUNG AND MAKING ME OLD” DA N I E L M O R R I S W W W.T H E A R M N Y C .C O M @T H E _ _ A R M

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A DA M & A L E X W W W. J A N E M OT O R C Y C L E S .C O M @ J A N E M OT O C Y C L E S

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DA N I E L W W W. L I V I D M AG A Z I N E .C O M @ L I V I D M AG A Z I N E — 168 —

D-NICE W W W. D - N I C E .C O M @DJDNICE — 169 —

“NEW YORK IS WHAT MADE ME WHO I AM!” S A M M I G LU C K S M A N @SDJ

“NEW YORK IS SUPERCALIFRAGILISTICEXPIALIDOCIOUS” DAV I D “ S H A D I ” P E R E Z W W W W. S H A D I N Y C .C O M @SHADINYC

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R A M O N YA N G – R O STA R R W W W. R O STA R R .C O M @ R O STA R R N Y C — 173 —

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B l a c k R o s e s N Y c R u N N i N g c l u B B Y R o s ta R R

R o s ta R R o N R o o f t o p s ta N d a R d H o t e l , s H o t B Y N e i l a l i N e

adidas oRigiNals seoul

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MooN & VeNus | pRaefectus BReukeleN

All artworks by: rostarr www.rostarr.com | @rostarrnyc

Âť a l l e Y e z o N Y o u ÂŤ B Y R o s ta R R

M e d i c o M fa B R i c k a c c e s s o R Y l i N e | M e d i c o M fa B R i c k k a R i M o k u d o g B e d | M e d i c o M fa B R i c k s e e d p i l l o w

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 177 â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

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Caught Between The Twisted Stars Concept and Art-Direction: EH Photographer: Phillip Zwanzig | www.phillipzwanzig.com Hair & Make-up Stylist: Daniela Critti | www.danialecritti.de Model: Sally Scheller

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S H O O T — 179 —

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Jacket: WoodWood | T-Shirt: Obey | Pants: Levi’s | Shoes: Filippa K | Jewelry: Cocii S H O O T — 180 —

Opposite Page – Jacket: Nudie | T-Shirt: Obey | Pants: Nudie

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S H O O T — 183 —

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Jacket: Obey | Sweater: Chinti and Parker | Jewelry: Cocii S H O O T — 184 —

Opposite Page – Vest: Sissi Goetze | Sweater: Obey | Pants: Sissi Goetze | Sunglasses: Model’s own | Jewelry: Cocii

N Y

P E O P L E — 186 —

COOPH Visit www.cooph.com to learn more about COOPH and find more photography tips and tricks at www.youtube.com/TheCooph

David Keller Instagram www.instagram.com/thedavidkeller Prints www.society6.com/thedavidkeller

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Instagram Tips From David Keller Presented by COOPH

Have you just joined Instagram? It can be quite tough to gain followers and build some momentum. The Cooperative of Photography (COOPH) recently chatted to Brooklyn based instagrammer David Keller for some tips on how to get into that instagroove. WHAT TIPS DO YOU HAVE FOR NEW INSTAGRAMMERS? Just keep shooting, develop your own style, and stick with it. Go to an instameet and talk to people. Don’t be afraid to DM someone if you have a question about their work, or just to shoot the shit. When in doubt, ‘gram it. HOW DID YOU BUILD SUCH A BIG FOLLOWING ON INSTAGRAM? Shortly after moving to New York, I caught the eye of someone at Buzzfeed and got featured. After that, I started curating my feed, and treating Instagram as a mini portfolio that gets updated daily. Since then, I’ve been featured on Instagram, and gotten press on various other sites and blogs. DO YOU HAVE A PARTICULAR STYLE OR THEME WITH YOUR POSTS? My posts are all over the place. Anything from adventures upstate to portraits or food. Mostly documenting life in Brooklyn and NYC without posting all of the touristy stuff. It’s like the Kansas City Shuffle. Everybody looks left, and I look right. IS IT PROFITABLE? DO YOU SELL A LOT OF PRINTS? It is profitable. I sell prints, and will work with brands that fit my aesthetic. WHAT IMPACT DO YOU THINK INSTAGRAM HAS HAD ON PHOTOGRAPHY? Instagram has brought photography to the masses, and has spread the idea that sharing your creations and supporting others is rewarding. It has nurtured a community of photography lovers, and created a place for us all to hang out, talk, and give feedback.

N Y P E O P L E — 187 —

I BALL NY

There’s no place quite like it – especially when it comes to basketball

B R A N D — 188 —

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Our buddies over at K1X brand are true NY hoop aficionados (even though they actually hail from Germany) and have repeatedly documented many facets of Gotham City’s infatuation with the orange »rock«. For our NYC issue, K1X brand director Niels Jäger supplied us with some new shots from his personal collection of court images, which like the game itself have an almost poetic quality. Also, make sure peep »Heart & Soul of New York City« on Vimeo for a video-love-letter to summer streetball, by Kevin Couliau for hip hop artist Red Cafe.

all imges by Niels Jäger

NEW YORK IS hotter than a slice of NY-Pizza in august.

Like bagels and cream cheese, New York and basketball are the perfect fit. The Big Apple is considered the b-ball mecca – and rightly so. No other place on earth boasts a comparable depth of basketball culture, street courts and love for the game. Hustle, grit and creativity are obvious parallels in NYC’s way of life, as well of its style of play. We are delighted to dedicate the following pages to the city’s signature sport and prime passion, basketball.

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NEW YORK IS all day every day.

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B R A N D — 190 —

all imges by Niels Jäger

And my fave: NEW YORK IS the birthplace of Michael Jordan, home of Biggie Smalls.

NEW YORK IS every ballplayer’s wet dream.

B R A N D — 191 —

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»I love NY because of it’s lively basketball culture and endless abundance of street courts – apparently there are around 500 official courts, but I am sure that the total quantity is way higher if you take all school yards and random baskets into account. To me, an outdoor court unfolds its beauty with time. Like a good wine or vintage leather jacket, the best basketball courts boast history, flavor and patina as well as an edge. Here are some of my favorites …«

B R A N D — 192 —

NEW YORK IS more colorful than Carandache.

NIELS JÄGER (BRAND DIRECTOR, K1X)

opposites attract

court imges by Niels Jäger

The second part of our basketball episode features a fashion shoot by photographer Marco Justus Schöler, who staged the »Speckle Pack« straight outta ’K1X’s new fall / winter collection as well as selected items by Pigalle, Jordan, Adidas and Nike. High-5’s all around …!

B R A N D — 194 —

NEW YORK IS way cleaner than when I lived there 30 years ago.

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NEW YORK IS Berlin’s wealthy big brother.

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Photographer: Marco Justus Schöler | Hair / Make-up / Airbrush: Sutida Vestewig | Styling: Abigail III Models: Tim Grupp (Izaio), Alpha Dia (Izaio) B R A N D — 196 —

NEW YORK IS usually where it starts.

B R A N D — 197 —

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THE NEW SCHOOL

Paula | Knits: Kilian Kerner

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s h o o t — 200 —

Charlotte | Button Down Shirt: Fred Perry | Dress: mih Paula | Skirt: Fred Perry | Coat: Monki

S S T T WW 22 DD

s h o o t — 203 —

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M U S I K — 204 —

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s h o o t — 207 —

Dadras Dark buzzing Big Apple

For a while now the New York native Alex Dadras has build up a growing following in the dance music underground scene of his hometown. In early 2015 he released »RUBAIYAT I« – a nine track collection that offers surprisingly deep alliances between ambient, dub, funky EDM particles and hip-hop. Since then the enigmatic producer, that does not like to release pictures of himself, has continued to leave his creative fingerprints all around NYC. This year he played some acclaimed live shows during the New York Fashion week. Furthermore he was involved in the production process of »At. Long. Last. A$AP« – the third album by his friend A$AP Rocky. Now Dadras is ready to release a heartfelt vibrant follower to his dark debut called »RUBAIYAT II«. This time Dadras unites house and hip-hop into a mysterious sound collage that grooves edgy while staying catchy. The rhythms of the trained drummer are complex and trippy and the atmosphere of his tracks, that do not need vocals to be all consuming, oscillates between light and dark. His love for offish beat producers like J Dilla or Flying Lotus is perceptible as well as his adoration for Krautrock bands like Can and peculiar club beats. Stw2d wanted to know more about the Queens-based newcomer with a Persian heritage, who fell in love with music during college. So we chatted with the man, who considers himself a drummer first, about his art, his influences, the fashion world and his hometown NYC. N Y M U S I K — 208 —

Dadras: RUBAIYAT II (Human Pitch 2015)

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Except some vocal samples your album is instrumental - never though of working with vocalist? I’m thinking of putting out a »features« album at some point, maybe within the next year. I have a lot of talented friends who I want to make tracks with. The album has an overall dark atmospheric touch with an extended nice light in it too. What kind of emotion does this atmosphere represent to you? Hey Dadras, can you shortly let us know who you are I strive to make music that is repreand what you do? My name is Dadras and I’m a producer/musician/performer sentative of my heritage and where I born and raised and currently operating in New York City. I come from, but that’s also innovative. My first record represented a darker live to make music, I’m obsessed with the drums and I like to travel. I’m also of German descent my grandmother was phase of my life, where I was dealing with some very stressful life facfrom Berlin and »Ich spreche etwas Deutsch«. tors. This album represents a bit of a rebirth. A realization that things are To our knowledge you are living in Queens. Did you changing and evolving every day, and grow up there? And what’s the difference between that the best approach is to be open Queens and Manhattan or Brooklyn? and excited about inevitable change. I’ve lived in Queens and Manhattan my whole life. Queens On the musical end, I wanted to take is very New York, but it’s also very Family oriented. Tons the sound world that I created with of families and kids are running around here doing their the first record, but make it more thing. Kind of similar to uptown Manhattan / Harlem (where I have also lived). Queens is gigantic, and a cultural hotspot. danceable. I get a lot of more people dancing at shows these days. The biggest difference between Queens and Manhattan is probably the cost of living, Manhattan has gotten a bit crazy expensive in the past couple of years. The city is still You produce music that melts house with a hip-hop feel? How great, and I am there almost every day. It’s just a difficult come? place for a young artist to live. There are certain elements of both What was your musical intake when you were younger? that I am into, I try to make music bar blends the two in ways that I haven’t I listened to a lot of different things growing up, a lot of heard. I really like minimalist house / 80s Post-punk / dance stuff like Joy Division, New Order, techno, there is something so primal Aphex Twin - my aunt put me on to Biggie and The Fuand simple about it, how it forces you gees. I was also into a lot of rock music growing up. I love to move. I also draw from classical the German group Can. They have a big influence on me. music, soundtracks, Indian and Middle Eastern music, and shoe-gaze. I don’t Do you see yourself as part of any scene? feel compelled to force my music into I find the »scenes« in NYC to be a bit fragmented. You any one-genre / world. It is it’s own have kids in bands, the rappers, the electronic kids, the thing. Jazz kids, and the fashionistas who don’t have any real taste. They are all kind of doing their own thing. I find How does living in NYC shape your myself immersed in different scenes at different times, work as a producer? but I wouldn’t say it’s ever really only one scene. NYC exposes you to so much by the time you finish you’re an adult. Can you describe your inspiration behind the new reIt’s a bit jading I’d say. Sometimes cord RUBAIYAT II? RUBAIYAT II was made largely at the same time as RUBAI- I like to retreat upstate by the woods / lake to clear my mind and YAT I. The biggest difference about II is, that I wanted to think about music. I’ll bring my lapmake the sound more danceable. While RUBAIYAT I may top up there and work on tracks have been more of a headphone listen, RUBAIYAT II is while fishing. Working remotely is definitely designed to hold its ground in an outdoor seta thing I like to do. ting or in a club.

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Have you been to any parties in NYC lately? How is the nightclub scene? Best parties are in Manhattan still. Probably Soho, Lower East Side, China Town. I don’t really go out to clubs that much. I prefer bars. What are three albums that you’ll recommend to someone who want to feel NYC with music? Strokes: Is This It (Rough Trade 2001) Notorious BIG: Ready To Die (Bad Boy Entertainment 1994) Ratking: So It Goes (HXC Recordings 2014) You played some shows during New York Fashion Week. How is your link towards fashion? Is there any? I’m friends with the guys who run the menswear brand Rochambeau, through a friend of my younger sisters actually. They make dope stuff, really nice jackets and tees. Stuff that I normally couldn’t drop hundreds on per item, but they hook it up. I scored/DJ’d their last four runway shows for New York Fashion Week which is definitely a lot different than just playing your own set. The shows can get crazy when the room gets packed and you see famous people walking around, but it’s all about building the intensity at the right moments and hitting certain cue points. You have also co-written some tracks for A$AP Rocky’s last album. How are the two of you connected and what exactly did you do for his record? I’ve known Rocky for a couple years. I met him through my homie Lynas at the studio where we all used to work at called Ishlab in DUMBO, Brooklyn. That was the spot. On his last LP I helped write the track Dreams during a session at his crib in Soho. I played the bass and electric piano. I also co-produced some instrumental tracks he has dropped last year, some of which haven’t been released yet. We did this one really good track together, that didn’t make it onto the album, hopefully that comes out at some point. If you have to describe the heartbeat of NYC in one sentence, what would you answer? New York City, a funny place, everybody running, tick tock tick tock, have you made it yet? What are some of your favorite places to hang out in NYC? 169 Bar on the border of China Town, Meet The Johnson’s on Rivington, Skinny Dennis in Williamsburg, Bar Matchless in Greenpoint, The Silent Barn & Cobra Club in Bushwick. There are so many bars in New York. N Y M U S I K — 210 —

Is high-priced NYC still good for subcultural movements? If so: where do they happen currently? No! haha it’s terrible. It’s making New York an impossible place to live unless you are already a huge artist or have some other high paying job to help support your art. The city is really expensive, unless you are cool with eating dollar slices, cheap dumplings and cans of PBR. If you could spend a night partying with any of your icons in NYC, who would it be and where would you go? Damn. Hard question. I would want to get high and make music with Jimi Hendrix at Electric Lady in the late 60’s. Finally can you give a general advise to someone who comes to NYC for 48 hours? Stay away from midtown. words by: Michael Leuffen

www.soundcloud.com/dadrasmusic

Elvis Perkins Songs to accompany the new day

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For over a decade now the American Singer/Songwriter Elvis Perkins writes folk music; and hearty, impressionistic lyrics – often about his own life, the world around him, sometimes revealing transcendental beliefs beyond logical reasoning with them. His debut album »Ash Wednesday« is a rather grieving and autobiographical record, on which he comes to terms on his mothers death, or the death of photographer Berry Berenson, a passenger on one of the planes, that hit the world trade center on 9/11.

ARE YOU CAUTIOUS ABOUT BEING PUT INTO A BOX AND DO YOU SEE YOURSELF AS PART OF ANY SCENE?

His bittersweet second album »In Dearland«, recorded with a befriended trio of musicians, manifested Elvis’ reputation as a songwriter for a characteristic sense of deeper melancholy, whose music comes deeply from his heart and soul – a gift, that he discovered early on and that he started training already during his childhood by listening to his father (the Hollywood actor Antony Perkins) sing and play the piano for the family. For the recordings of his latest release »I Aubade« he now withdrew to record and mix a longplayer without a producer. During his work he reinvented his art into a more experimental territory, but without leaving the catchiness and sweet melancholia behind. All 13 songs are dominated by his dreamily and sublime vocals, an overall acoustic atmosphere enlarged with sounds of field recordings, piano melodies, wind instruments, sitar or xylophone tones and layered production methods. All this transforms the record into an entirely special audible adventure. His moody ballads are spiritually charged and they touch one deeply. In some of them, like »& Eveline« or »It’s Now or never loves«, female vocals accompany him gently. Even tough he produced his latest songs very detailed and with all the multiple possibilities of contemporary technology, they are still full of consciously unpolished, spontaneous human emotions. A wonderful, captivating piece of music, which was produced mostly in his house in uptown Manhattan, close to the Hudson River. Streetwear Today talked to the 39-year old artist about the inspirations behind his wondrous new album, his musical influences and his upbringing in an artistic household, where sometimes people like Michael Jackson just rang the phone…

I don’t much consider the boxes strangers keep and have no interest in inhabiting one of my own making, so I don’t find much caution this is necessary. And likewise I can’t say I perceive any scenes around, so I also can’t say I see myself as part of one. I am always happy to make music and do shows with the likes of Becky Stark (Lavender Diamond), Dr Dog, My Morning Jacket, Delta Spirit and of course the Dearland gentlemen. Dearland’s drummer and clarinet player, Kinsey, will be playing in the band tour this fall, along with Danielle HELLO ELVIS, CAN YOU INTRODUCE Ackroyd and Mitchell Robe, and YOURSELF SHORTLY TO OUR READhe will also be opening a good ERS AND US AND TELL US WHAT deal of the shows.

YOU DO?

Hello readers, my name, since birth, is Elvis Perkins, I’m a musician and songwriter living north of Manhattan in the Hudson River Valley. I’ve released three and a half records – »Ash Wednesday« (2007), »Elvis Perkins in Dearland« (with the band so-called, 2009), »The Doomsday« EP (also with EPID, 2009), and »I Aubade« (2015) – and in August completed my first soundtrack (for my brother’s feature-length directorial debut, February, 2016).

WHAT WAS YOUR MUSICAL INTAKE WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? My brother, Oz, and I watched a lot of MTV as kids. The first concert we went to was ‘A Flock of Seagulls’. Our father played piano and sang at home and had a wonderful collection of LPs. Michael Jackson one day telephoned to talk to my mother (who had photographed him on the set of the Wiz) and I happened to pick up the phone. Most of what I know musically I learned from the 5 words he spoke to me then.

HOW DID YOU FIRST GET INTO MUSIC AND WHEN DID YOU DECIDE, THAT YOU WANTED TO PROCEED A CAREER AS A SINGER/SONGWRITER? I was encouraged to take piano and saxophone lessons but didn’t really connect until I chose to play electric guitar when I was just pre-teenage. From the start I was making up music and then began co-writing with the band ›Between Carp and Pug‹, in which I played guitar during high school in California. My own songs started appearing in my late teenage years and that’s more or less what I’ve been doing since.

CAN YOU DESCRIBE THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR NEW RECORD »I AUBADE«? An aubade is the morning version of a serenade, which is sung in the evening. I didn’t know the word until I was done making the record, but it fit my intention to make sounds to accompany the new day, which is supposed by many ancient cultures to be dawning at this moment in time. I was also inspired to deviate from the recording process of my past records, so I worked on my own schedule, in my own studio and without a producer or an engineer.

THE ALBUM IS VERY LO-FI BUT STILL ALL SONGS SOUND LIKE THERE IS SO MUCH HAPPENING IN THEM. HOW COME? I suppose any lo-fi quality to the sound comes in large part from deciding to do my own engineering, an art & science I knew very little about. I took my time experimenting and stumbled upon many sounds and noises, a good deal of which ended up on the record. — 213 —

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TO US THE ALBUM ALSO HAS THIS CHARMING VINTAGE ATMOSPHERE (LIKE OLD SCRATCHED VINYL OR THE SOUND OF AN OLD MOVIE PROJECTOR) AND PARTLY SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING THAT COMES FROM THE PAST. WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO THIS KIND OF COLLAGE SOUND? Initially my intention had been to make a very sparsely arranged album and to make it very quickly. As I got into the process new possibilities of layering, combining, and manipulating sounds availed themselves to me and I ended up entertaining just about all of them. The recording and editing/mixing therefore took a lot longer than I had originally expected.

WHAT COMES FIRST WHEN YOU WRITE A SONG: THE LYRICS OR A GUITAR THEME? It happens differently from song to song but usually both words and music are still moving around come recording time. On this record, as the process was so loose, I did a lot more writing as I recorded and edited than I ever have before.

WHERE DO YOUR LYRICS COME FROM? WHAT INSPIRES YOU? FAMILY, FRIENDS, NEW YORK STREETS, NATURE LIFE? AND DID ANY FRIENDS HELP YOU RECORDING YOUR ALBUM? My lyrics come from all over the place and are just as unpredictable to me as are sources of inspiration. I sometime will deal with a finite occurrence, as in my new songs »The Passage of the Black Gene«, and sometimes will make a lyric largely around exercising the possibilities of words. I did most of the work on the record alone, but when that became tedious and lonesome, I enlisted some talented friends and they were a great help and relief. I didn’t trust myself technically to mix, so Jesse Lauters contribution to that was of utmost importance.

WHAT DO YOU FIND MOST CHALLENGING ABOUT THE WORK YOU DO AND WHAT DO YOU WANT TO ACCOMPLISH WITH YOUR MUSIC?

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I find the writing of songs, which are worth the air and time they take up, to be probably the biggest challenge. At times it seems to me that there is too much of everything man-made filling the Earth and I consider dropping out and being one less person who makes songs. I always however come around to the acceptance, that music can be an extremely potent substance with great healing and transformative capabilities; and that I’m lucky to have what little understanding of and control over it that I do. As for what I want to accomplish, it’s just that, to shed what light I can, to nourish and heal, to awaken and transform, both the listener and myself.

Elvis Perkins: Aubade (Mir / Cargo Records), European 2015 tourdates:

I’ve noticed, that I’ve learned most from artists whose names end in N: Michael Jackson, Leonard Cohen, Ludwig van Beethoven, Brian Wilson, John Lennon, Robert Zimmerman, Paul Simon & Nina Simone, Van Morrison, Yngwie Malmsteen etc. The deviants include Antônio Carlos Jobim, Ravi Shankar, Ronnie James Dio, John Coltrane etc.

WHAT OLD ALBUMS HAVE YOU REDISCOVERED LATELY AND WHAT MAKES THEM SPECIAL? I haven’t been listening to many albums lately, as I’ve been on the road and making movie music. I am doing a benefit with a bunch of musicians singing Neil Young songs this week so it’s been good to spend some time again with the earnestness and politics of his records. I was happy to just find out his new record criticizes irresponsible corporations likes of Monsanto and Starbucks. I’ve got some of that on »I Aubade« as well.

HOW DOES LIVING IN UPSTATE NYC SHAPE YOUR WORK AS AN ARTIST? During the writing and most of the recording of »I Aubade« I was living, as I still do, very close to the Hudson River. Not intending to I ended up with multiple mentions of »the river« on the record. I’m not sure one has anything to do with the other, but it’s possible.

Elvis Perkins: I Aubade (Mir/Cargo Records)

WHAT ARE YOUR BIGGEST MUSICAL INFLUENCES?

13.10.2015 Rock School Barbey , Bordeaux, France 14.10.2015 Pigalle-Montmatre, Paris, France 15.10.2015 Waals Kerk, Amsterdam, Netherlands 16.10.2015 Ekko, Utrecht, Netherlands 17.10.2015 Hedon, Zwolle, Netherlands 20.10.2015 Dutch Design Week: Wilhelmina, Eindhoven, Netherlands 8.11. 2015 Mojo Jazz Café, Hamburg, Germany 9.11.2015 Roter Salon, Berlin, Germany 11.11.2015 Bogen F, Zürich, Switzerland 12 .11.2015 Fri Son, Fribourg, Switzerland 13.11.2015 Studio Foce, Lugano, Switzerland 14.11.2015 Covo Club, Bologna, Italy 15.11.2015 Biko Club, Bologna, Italy 16.11.2015 Sala Apolo La 2, Barcelona, Spain 19.11.2015 King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut, Glasgow, United Kingdom 20.11.2015 Cluny 2, Newcastle, United Kingdom 21.11.2015 Gulliver’s, Manchester, United Kingdom 22 .11.2015 Hare and Sound, Birmingham, United Kingdom 23.11.2015 Crofters Rights, Bristol, United Kingdom 24.11.2015 The Victoria Dalston, London, United Kingdom 26.11.2015 La Sirene, La Rochelle, France 28.11.2015 Stereolux, Nantes, France 1.12 . 2015 Botanique, Brussels, Belgium 2 .12 .2015 Le Grand Mix, Tourcoing, France 3.12 .2015 La Lune des Pirates, Amiens, France 4.12 .2015 La Laiterie, Strasbourg, France 5.12 .2015 La Rodia, Besançon, France 6.12 .2015 La Coopérative de Mai, Clermont Ferrand, France

WHAT ARE THREE ALBUMS THAT YOU’LL RECOMMEND TO SOMEONE WHO WANT TO FEEL NYC WITH MUSIC? The Velvet Underground’s the Velvet Underground (Verve 1966) Nina Simone: Live at Town Hall (Play 24-7 Records 2000) Sonny Rollins: The Bridge (RCA 1962) Words by: Michael Leuffen

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RVNG Intl. More than just a record label

Getting in touch with Matt Werth, man behind the NYC based label RVNG. Intl., is an easy thing. The Brooklyn based label manager, bass player, musical curator and art initiator likes to share his passion for art and music with everybody who knocks at his door. Early spring 2015 we visited a concert of his band Georgia and a show of the legendary Italian progressive/electronic pioneer Sensations’ Fix in the East Village venue Elvis Guesthouse. Werth, who originally comes from Little Rock, Arkansas, plays bass in the experimental band Georgia, who is known for percussive mindexpanding music beyond the average. Their concert was short, intense and full of grooves, spheres and sounds that resonate in your mind long after the show has finished. After the gig we approached Werth, shared a drink with him and his friends and made some jokes with openhearted Franco Falsini, the lively mastermind behind Sensations’ Fix. Since that Manhattan night we stayed in loose contact with Werth, who is part of the US underground music culture since his teens when he started to publish DIY punk magazines and worked fully for the local Little Rock label called File 13 Records. Here he learned all you need to know to run a label that does not want to entertain masses in the first place. After moving to Philadelphia for college he started to throw parties with a friend. To promote them, both produced a cd mix serial, which they called RVNG. After relocating to New York City in 2002 he continued to organize parties and the advertising mixes slowly emerged into the label RVNG Intl.. Till today the record company, that considers itself as something more then just a record releasing institution, has grown massive and also got two little sub-divisions called FRKWYS and Rvng Of The Nerds. The former functions as an umbrella term under which contemporary artists make music with legends from the past. So far Werth united the reggae icons The Congos with the California based musical free thinkers Sun Araw and M. Geddes Gengras in a Jamaican studio, or brought New York modular synth wizard Robert Aiki Aubrey Lowe and New Age composer Ariel Kalma together to jam for a release. In comparison Rvng Of The Nerds functions as a platform for contemporary offish electronic producers like Pilooski or Jacques Renault. Even tough both sub labels are busy; the main focus in Werth’s work is RVNG Intl. where he releases new music by globally demanded artists like Blondes, Stella OM Source, Bing & Ruth, Maximillion Dunbar, Julia Holter or Holly Herndon. Beside contemporary sounds sensible compiled archival records by forgotten ambient legends like Ariel Kalma or K Leimer, early German electronic campaigner Harald Grosskopf or Italian Prog-Rock hero Sensations’ Fix enlarge the RVNG catalogue with dateless music from the past. Shortly before Werth, who also has close ties to the vibrant New York underground art scene, is ready to release another ambitious record by the New York based experimental composer and environmental sound artist Jamal Moss aka Hieroglyphic Being and a Jazz ensemble consisting of musicians like current Sun Ra Arkestra leader Marshall Allan or free Jazz wind instrument legend Daniel Carter, we spoke with the man that still considers himself as a punk via Skype during busy hours in his new RVNG Intl. headquarter in downtown Manhattan, that functions as an office, shop, concert and art space.

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NEW YORK IS very alive in our music. – Matt Werth, RVNG Intl.

HI MATT, CAN YOU INTRODUCE YOUR LABEL RVNG INTL . A BIT TO OUR READERS? AND WHAT DO YOU DO FOR IT ON A DAY-TO-DAY BASIS? Matt Werth: RVNG is a channel through which all modes and manners of art are shared. I am the owner of and I operate RVNG on a day-to-day basis.

ANY ROLE MODELS, INSPIRATIONS, OR BENCHMARKS FOR RVNG INTL . WHEN IT WAS LAUNCHED IN 2003? Matt Werth: When RVNG was launched in 2003, it wasn’t on course to conventionally share music as a »record label.« That sentiment stuck – I still don’t know that I view RVNG a record label, though it sustains from some of the conventional qualities of a record label.

RVNG INTL . ALSO GOT THE SUB LABELS FRKWYS AND RVNG OF THE NRDS. CAN YOU TELL US A BIT ABOUT THOSE WHAT PROCESS DO YOU FOLLOW FOR RELATIVES? WHAT DISGETTING NEW ARTISTS? TINGUISH THEM FROM Matt Werth: I follow the ears and then the heart, both mine THEIR PARENT LABEL? Matt Werth: I like the word »relatives!« I feel that humanizes these serial endeavors, it makes them familial. So, RVNG of the NRDS is the rebellious teenager tearing apart his parents’ record collection, and FRKWYS is when the teenager and parents reconcile.

WHAT DO YOU FIND MOST CHALLENGING ABOUT THE WORK YOU DO: RELEASING NEW MUSIC OR EXCAVATE OLD MUSIC? Matt Werth: Both are challenging, but, fortunately, neither are a struggle. There is a bit of saturation with re-issues at this point. I don’t want to critise someone’s instinct in re-releasing music from which he feels that is worthwhile existing. But currently many people just release old music because there is demand for it on the market. My approach with archival projects is that I want to put out music that was less known, is known now and have the potential to be known forever. Something that is not be explored but should be explored. And this with a quality presentation that is worth buying now and in the future.

and of the artists.

HOW IMPORTANT ARE THE NON-MUSICAL COMPONENTS OF YOUR RELEASES, I. E. PACKAGING AND ALBUM ART? Matt Werth: The packaging and album art is as important as the musical components. I consider them together total. It’s gets designed by two people: Kevin O’Neill and Karisa Senavitis. The where formally known as Will Work For Good. They recently changed their studio name to Joanne. Kevin has been involved from the first RVNG artwork on. Except the Holly Herndon album. He works under the influence of all material we have for a release. Usually he works very symbiotically with music. He loves also working from reference points and syntax. He really responds to the artist personal expression.

WHAT WAS THE BIGGEST HIT SO FAR FOR RVNG INTL . AND ITS SUB LABELS? Matt Werth: I would need some clarification on your definition of »big« and »hit«. But the Bing & Ruth album »Tomorrow Was The Golden Age« from last year got worldwide a great response. I was not anticipating that people would react so personally and intimately with the music. It was also critically well received and even from a sales point of view it was great. For me that represents the best of all worlds. That is an album for me – and I think for a lot of people, they will return too.

WHICH OF THE ALBUMS/EPS YOU RELEASED ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF? Matt Werth: It’s all a blur of happiness after splintered off into releasing original music, the intergenerational series of FRKWYS, and the archival works, though I do love the rogue spirit of the NRDS and mix series.

WHAT IS COMING UP ON THE LABEL? Matt Werth: Our next project is Hieroglyphic Being and J.I.T.U. Ahn-Sahm-Buhl’s and it is called »We Are Not The First«. Jamal (Hieroglyphic Being, editor’s note) and I have been friends for several years and I am bugging him to do

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something since long. I am such a fan of Jamal’s DIY aesthetic in dance music and I wanted to hear something from him that felt more like a studio work. With different real players and different instrumentation resembling the qualities of his lower-fi music. That was the impetus and for this we kind of pieced together an ensemble of great musicians.

CAN YOU NAME US A TRACK, AN ARTIST, OR AN ALBUM THAT YOU WISHED TO HAVE SIGNED TO RVNG INTL .? Matt Werth: Tony Conrad With Faust: Outside The Dream Syndicate released on the Virgin mid-prize subdivision label Caroline in 1973.

YOU PLAY BASS IN THE BAND GEORGIA. WHEN DID YOU FORM THE BAND AND WHAT OR WHO WERE YOUR EARLY PASSIONS OR INFLUENCES? Matt Werth: I drop everything to play bass in Georgia when they are gracious enough to ask / humor me. Georgia is a wonderful embodiment of different creators from the avantgarde communities in NYC. Energy flowing to a single kind of space in this very collage based project. I think that also the feeling of downtown New York is very alive in our music.

WHAT RECORDS FROM THE PAST COINED YOUR LIVE? Matt Werth: Off the very top of my head, Anonymous »Inside the Shadow« from 1976, De La Soul’s »Stakes Is High« from 1996 and »Blue« Gene Tyranny’s »Out of the Blue« from 1978.

AND WHAT WAS THE LAST RECORD YOU BOUGHT? Matt Werth: The last record I bought was Paki & Visnadi’s »Imaginary Choreography« released by the French label Antinote this spring.

IF YOU COULD BE IN ANY BAND, LIVING OR DEAD, FOR A DAY WHICH BAND WOULD IT BE? Matt Werth: Lungfish – an American post-hardcore band from Baltimore!

AND WHAT OLD ALBUMS YOU REDISCOVERED LATELY AND WHAT MAKES THEM SPECIAL? Matt Werth: Stephen Mallinder’s »Pow-Wow« from 1982. What makes it special is that it was recommend on a tip from the producer Andrew Pekler after he heard some specific parallels to our recent Savant collection that we released via RVNG. I love it!

CAN YOU NAME US SOME THINGS THAT YOU HAVEN’T DONE YET BUT YOU ALWAYS WANTED TO? Matt Werth: I’ve always wanted to sky dive and learn a second language.

WHEN DO YOU FEEL MOST AT PEACE? Matt Werth: Long distance running, when breathing becomes even and everything and there is no end in sight.

YOU ARE ROOTED IN THE NEW YORK MUSIC AND ART SCENE. IS HIGH PRIZED NEW YORK STILL GOOD FOR SUB CULTURE? AND IF SO: WHAT ARE CURRENT SUBCULTURAL MOVEMENTS THAT STIMULATE YOU? Matt Werth: It’s better than ever for sub culture, but sometimes you have to travel a bit outside of the city for it. For instance, this weekend’s Sustain-Release and Basilica Soundscape events, neither of which had a single corporate sponsor.

CAN YOU TELL US SOMETHING YOU ABSOLUTELY LOVE ABOUT NYC AND SOMETHING THAT YOU ABSOLUTELY DO NOT LOVE? Matt Werth: I absolutely love the diversity of NYC. I absolutely do not love the sweeping generalization that NYC has lost its diversity. In NYC there is no shortage of artists, galleries, labels. There is a lot happening that first honours the community and broadcasts wider. I don’t like to talk about the economic shift of New York but all this exists outside of that. New York is always moving.

DO YOU GO DANCING IN YOUR TOWN? IF SO WHAT ARE YOUR MOST FAVOURITE SPOTS? Matt Werth: I don’t consciously seek out dance parties as much as I once did, but I do keep an eye on the parties that Deep Trouble, Blazer Sound System, and the Bunker throw.

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AS A RECORD LABEL MANAGER THAT ALSO RE-RELEASES OLD MUSIC YOU MUST ALSO SEARCH FOR IT. WHERE DO YOU DO THIS: IN THE INTERNET OR IN RECORD STORES. IF YOU GO TO RECORD STORE: WHICH ARE YOUR FAVOURITE ONES IN NYC? Matt Werth: My search is a mixture of both online and record store excavation. Favourite record stores in NYC: A1, Co-Op 87 and Record Grouch.

HOW DO YOU SEND YOUR TIME IN NYC’S PUBLIC TRANSPORT: READING, LISTENING TO MUSIC, INTERNET? AND WHY? Matt Werth: When I do use public transportation, I spend my time reckoning with the amount of energy being produced by that many people in a small, underground space.

WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVORITE SPOTS AND SECRETS IN NYC THAT YOU WOULD RECOMMEND TO SOMEBODY THAT COMES AROUND FOR A VISIT?

www.igetrvng.com

Matt Werth: After you visit the amazing community garden at Sarah Roosevelt Park, come by RVNG’s new multi purpose storefront / gallery, Commend at the ground floor of 172 Forsyth St, and then hit up Spicy Village for hand-pulled noodles. We are located south of Houston just right across the street of our first RVNG office that was in that famous building in 195 Chrystie Street where the Talking Heads used to rehearse and record. There is still a certain downtown spirit in that era and we can use our office as a gallery, performance space and more.

SO AT LARGE NYC CREATES THE MIND-SET THAT ALLOWS YOU TO RUN RVNG AS YOU DO? OR COULD YOU DO YOUR WORK IN ANOTHER TOWN, TOO? Matt Werth: I think RVNG would be a different thing when it is based somewhere else. I could do it from somewhere else but I think environmentally there is something special here which makes RVNG to what it is. It is such an incredible peer group here in NYC. words by: Michael Leuffen

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CREATION Watch dem men Creation is the t-shirt label from Emmet Keane and Paul Sid, respected veterans of the UK Streetwear scene. The two have been friends for many years, sharing a mutual interest for art and music. In late 2013, a conversation between Keane and Sid, quickly galvanised, when realising that pooling their vision and love of strong graphics, could amount to a t-shirt label that is unparallel with what is being offered in today’s market.

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Tell us something about yourself and Emmet, (Introductions to you both) EK: I used to distribute Will Bankhead’s Park Walk label in the UK in the late 90’s / early 2000’s, myself and Will then set up a UK branch of the label initially using only Vaughn Bode imagery under license. We were approached by Bathing Ape to do a collaboration but because of politics in the Japanese scene we couldn’t use the Park Walk name so we set up Answer instead. The collaboration came out in 2002 and we then moved forwards with Answer, using How did you meet and what sparked the idea of original commissioned designs from the likes of Ben Drury founding a label together etc. (Mo Wax / TML / ATP), Fergadelic (Silas / Tonite / Palace), Chris Love (Park Walk / Elkie Park), Paul Simenon (The EK: Anyway When I was doing Answer, Sid used to Clash), Ed Gill and Rob Dukes to name a few. We licensed contact me, asking for advice on setting up his own work from the likes of Winston Smith, Gee Vaucher, Peter label, (which became Retreat). Anyway we stayed in Beste, Jon Naar & The Andy Warhol Foundation and more touch and a couple of years ago I was approached by I can’t remember off the top of my head. a label in the Far East to curate a collection for them. The collaboration with BAPE opened a lot of doors to They felt the imagery I submitted wasn’t suitable for us and we were selling worldwide, but after a few years their label so I offered them to retreat instead. Anyit just stopped being fun. I grew to despise the ›streetwear‹ way we started talking about things and he ended up industry and the fickle nature of it. The whole thing just persuading me to step back into the ring … and Crebecame a ball-ache. We took a break from putting stuff ation was born. out around 2008. I wanted to spend time with my family SID: Like Emmet said emails were initially exchanged and pursue a degree in History. Will started up The Trilogy from me being a Park Walk / Answer fan yet Emmet Tapes and was doing things on his own terms outside of gave me loads of sound advice which I am eternalthe industry. We always intended to keep Answer going ly grateful for. We kept in touch over the last 9 years but it just fizzled out eventually. and I used to bug Emmet asking him when the next Answer release would drop. SID: I set up Retreat back in 2005 just to I think I can take credit in basically release some limited designs for The Vaughn Bode Estate and Daniel Johnston. I went on to work with both back in 2009 and 2012. motivating Emmet back into digme and my friends. My biggest success with Retreat came when I ging through his old archives of As a skater back in the day I was always did the 2012 New Yauch City charity t-shirt celebratwork and this seemed to relight initially drawn to the board graphics by ing the life of Beastie Boy Adam Yauch. All proceeds his passion for graphics and stuff. the likes of Jim Phillips, Andy Takakjian Through months of talking Emand Victor Courtland Johnson. The bright were donated to two Charities Yauch supported. That design alone got the brand global awareness met initially suggested I do a subcolours and designs really stood out and including features in Rolling Stone, The New York brand of Retreat but although the to this day I hold those designs up there Times and The Village Voice. graphics we shared were amazing with the very best. After 10 years I decided to take a break from I didn’t think they would be suitBy 2003 – 2004 »Streetwear« started Retreat. One day I might return to it but for now able to be associated with Retreat to take off with a lot of brands following Creation takes up most of my spare time. so we talked more about creating similar aesthetics which apart from a few a new brand together. brands at the time didn’t appeal to me. Of Besides you being the founder of Retreat and course Supreme and Bape were always How did you come up with the consistent but it was independent brands Emmett of Answer. Where are you guys from and what did you do before Retreat and Answer? brand name? like Answer, Tonite, aNYthing, Perks and EK: We were looking for a name Mini, Surrender which appealed to me. I EK: I worked for a major US Comics distributor in and I was flicking through some was also a huge Mo’Wax fan so loved the London for 11 years and like lots of others in the 90’s '45 s looking for inspiration. The attention to detail which James Lavelle was an aspiring DJ. I became friendly with James name comes from a real tuff dubhad an eye for. Lavelle (Mo’Wax) after DJing in the same club in 97. wise riddim Mafia & Fluxy did for But it was when I discovered Answer I ended up sourcing rare action figures and memoraBlacker Dread. The word Creation that I got more educated. The likes of my bilia for him, Futura 2000 and Nigo (Bape). Through has great significance. Creation favourite designers like Will Bankhead, James I met the whole Mo Wax crew, many of whom Rebel is our website (basically Fergadelic, Ben Drury all designing for became firm close friends. Will, Ben and Andy that was because we couldn’t get one brand was too good to be true. Holmes were such an inspiration to me and I worked a domain name for just creation). Every design they put out was a killer. really well with them. For us Creation Rebel comes from Answer also made me realise it was posSID: I’ve always been keen at graphic design and the Burning Spear, Studio 1 track sible to actually contact and work with photography which I studied at ›A‹ level but over of the same name. your childhood heroes with the likes of the years I kind of fell into the IT industry which I hate but it pays the bills. I have worked in IT for over 10 years. I have a wife and 3 kids which as you can imagine is hard, so designing is my kind of escape. It’s like my therapy where I can just zoom out of everyday life and just create.

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What made you choose Atlas the titan wearing the earth as your logo? Sid: It took myself and Emmet some time to come up with a brand name which we both loved, so initially having a logo wasn’t really that high on our agenda. I began researching and doing little rough sketches etc and I guess the Atlas just seemed to stand out and what corporating the brand name for the sake of it. That’s not to say Creit represented just seemed to fit in ation won’t release a branded design but I would say our passions lie nicely with Creation‘s aesthetics. with Killer Graphics which are printed using the highest quality techniques. Strong imagery and visual metaphors seem to be the most crucial You consider your brand as »No. 1 Pon The Look Good Chart«. part of your brand philosophy, Who else is in the Top 10? please explain it a little further. EK: ha ha… that strap line comes from a very early Capleton tune, it EK : I firmly believe that images speak was one of the first dancehall records I ever heard and the title has always stuck with me. It’s a typical braggart tune, which we totally louder than words. Text in many plagiarized for one of our first anniversary t-shirts. cases belittles the picture and takes I personally don’t really know what other labels are out there, or away from people forming their own what current trends there are. I’m sure there is some great stuff comopinions. There is no philosophy ing out but I don’t look out for it. For me that works well, we are not other than letting the images being looking for mass market sales … and I like to think that we are peerjudged on their own merit. We used less. That is not meant as any kind of arrogance or derision to other imagery that we feel is graphically strong and allow people to draw their labels … In reality it’s just ignorance to the state of play in Streetwear. I always liked what Supreme did and a few Japanese labels like W) own conclusions from what they see. taps … But these guys were in a league of their own and I’m sure they We are not trying to be a Streetwear label, we are just doing what we enjoy still keep it locked down. Will Bankhead always puts out amazing stuff on his Trilogy Tapes label and from what I’ve seen of Palace, they doing and hopefully people will like represent. some of it. I really like a little label called Northdown, Matt Smith who runs it SID: I think Emmet‘s hit the nail on really thinks outside of the box and has some incredible concepts. His the head with that Answer. I do think attention to detail is top notch. a strong graphic sits best on its own without the need for adding or inSID: I don’t follow Supreme or Bape these days but I must admit I have Will’s Trilogy Tapes blog bookmarked. I do like the t-shirt designs he puts out especially those done by Jon Knight. I guess I feel it’s a natural progression from Answer that I admire the graphics Palace put out – purely as a lot of their stuff features work by Fergadelic and Ben Drury and they don’t seem to conform to what other skate brands are doing – I like that. Another brand that I have my eye on is Thames which is run by Blondey McCoy. I don’t know too much about this kid other than he is about 18 years old and skates for Palace but the designs that he has released so far are interesting.

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