#2/2022
“Digital Fashion Is Not a Revolution, But an Evolution!” Daria Shapovalova Nat alia Modenova DressX
Gen Z Decoded. It’s All About Community! Meta… What? New Territory for Boomers. The Value of Values. Credibility as USP. Future & Freedom. The Vibrant Creative Community of Ukraine.
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FROM SWITZERLAND WITH LOVE
EDITORIAL
Cover photo: DressX
Stand with Ukraine Welcome to these lines. Possibly one of the most encouraging transformations our industry has experienced in recent years is particularly evident in this new issue of style in progress. In the majority of landmark interviews that are so characteristic of this magazine, our interviewees are women. This does not imply a concrete plan or specific agenda. The determining criteria are always content-related. While women, apart from exceptions that prove the rule, were primarily assigned the role of decoration and/or consumer for a long time, female managers and founders are now shaping the fashion industry to an ever-greater extent – in all areas. ALSO, let us emphasise this quite deliberately, in the fields of fashion tech, digitisation, and Metaverse. Even though we are merely mirroring this (cultural) shift, we would like to offer a brief personal assessment: Fantastic! Another topic pervades this issue like an imaginary blue and yellow thread. Beginning with our cover interview with Natalia Modenova and Daria Shapovakova, the two founders of leading virtual fashion platform DressX, to the conversation with designer and influencer Viky Rader (Viky & the Kid), all the way to Ana Varava’s lovingly edited feature on innovative designers, brands, and start-ups - Ukraine as the home of a deeply European, liberal, and, above all, extraordinarily future-oriented art and creative scene is very prominent throughout. In this case, we do pursue a concrete agenda and at the same time, our usual content-related standards still apply. We harbour the hope that the seed of a new, truly value-based European idea may be found in the nightmare of this brutal attack on civilisation. We wish you all much success and inspiration, in the hope of meeting as many of you as possible in person again throughout this season. And, of course, we wish you an interesting and inspiring reading experience with style in progress. Peace! Your style in progress team
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LUISTRENKER.COM
R E W A R D PREVIEW UNLIMITED: If you scan this QR code, you will be rewarded. With a look at our extraordinary Spring/Summer collection 2023.
Michaelis Fashion Agency Karl Weinmair Strasse 8 Third Floor - 80807 Monaco +49 171 488 8924
Modeagentur Klaus Fashionpalais Studio 7-11 5101 Bergheim / Salzburg +43 5212 40200 Designed by An Artist for FREEDOMDAY
CONTENT
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104
012 EDITORIAL Stand With Ukraine
026 RIGHT NOW 130 WANT IT
040 FASHION 040 Take a Look Trends and tendencies for spring/summer 2023. 114 Characterful Cashmere Notshy represents wearable empowerment.
125 Mediterranean Expedition Bob celebrates the beauty of Italy in its collection. 126 A New Form of Glamour St. Ann impresses with effortless looks.
115 Luxury Redefined Iconic brand Jet Set is back for good.
127 Ambitious Cosiness Womenswear by Schneiders for the spring/summer 2023 season.
116 Athletic Hints of Luxury Better Rich focuses on everyday luxury-wear.
128 The Original Unique cashmere scarves in 90 colours by Purschoen.
117 Not for Conformists Colors of California has the fashionable knack.
129 Smartleisure Jacket specialist Save the Duck on the rise.
118 Denim at Its Best Finest Italian premium jeans with attitude: The Nim.
222 МАЙБУТНЄ І СВОБОДА Make fashion, not war: a style portrait of Ukraine.
119 Bring On Spring Strellson’s hybrid style worlds skilfully bridge the gap.
104 THE LONGVIEW
120 Sartorial Casual One pair of trousers better than the next: Myths sets standards. 121 Workwear Performance Combinable and versatile: outerwear by Bomboogie. 122 Summer Essentials Peuterey significantly expands its core competencies once again. 123 Alpine Fashion Safari Deliberately different: Sportalm in a frenzy of colours and patterns. 018
124 A Shoe Like a Hug(h) New icon of the Doucal’s collection: the Hugh sneaker.
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“The Future of Every Industry, Including Fashion, Is an Intersection With Technology” Natalia Modenova and Daria Shapovalova of virtual fashion platform DressX.
138 WHAT’S THE STORY 138 META ME Why virtual fashion is neither a beginning nor an end. 140 Is This Real? An opinion piece by Stephan Huber.
CONTENT
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142 The New Reality Is fashion in the Metaverse already a viable business model? 144 “If You Do It, Do It Right” Nikita Rotanov founded Artisant.io, a digital marketplace for virtual avant-garde. 146 “A Revolutionary Chance” Tech pioneer Marjorie Hernandez is among the first movers in the Metaverse with The Dematerialised. 150 “An Unprecedented Opportunity to Reinvent Yourself” Leo Hilse from StyleXChange knows how to pinpoint questions about the Metaverse and fashion NFTs. 152 Shop the Metaverse How brands like AlphaTauri and Alberto bring the Metaverse to life. 154 “The Metaverse Will Not Have Billboards” Sallyann Houghton of Epic Games is an expert in translating brand experiences into virtual spaces.
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170 “We Are a Platform for Everyone” Sahra Al-Dujaili, Brand Partnerships Lead Retail & QSR of TikTok, is convinced that her platform is the ideal playground for fashion brands. 171 Be Real Eco-brand Erdbär has repositioned itself. 172 Una Storia Italiana Finest cashmere from Reggio Emilia: Kangra. 174 “We Are Ready” Penn & Ink N.Y founder Mark de Lorme advocates conscious shopping. 175 Continuity and Zeitgeist Impressive in growth and design: Vic Matié returns to old strength.
176 TRANSFORM THE FUTURE What follows the growth society principle?
158 The Rise of the Digital Adam and Eve Surprisingly, the virtual influencers of Dob Studio are backed by real people.
178 Flavour Enhancer An indispensable element of the bigger picture: influencers and content creators.
160 Gaming + Social Media = Metaverse They are the target group: Yaël Meier and Jo Dietrich of Zeam.
180 “We Bear Responsibility” Influencer Viky Rader opens the next chapter with her own collection.
164 It’s All About Community! How to attract the new generation as a target group: exciting answers.
184 “Influencers Are the New Vogue” And Daniela Giller of Magari International knows how to get in.
168 “It’s About Community and Culture” The Ground’s show director Kai Zollhöfer on modern marketing.
186 “A Company Is Judged by Its Values” An entrepreneur on a par with her husband Renzo Rosso: Ariana Alessi.
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Fancy
for future
mey.com
CONTENT
190
BACK FOR
D
G OO
232 190 Chain Reaction What the new EU supply chain law means for Italy. 197 “Price and Performance Must Remain in Balance” Orciani focuses its expansion efforts on the DACH region. 198 “It Is a Cultural Asset” Otto d’Ame relies on short routes and pure Italian creativity. 199 “Investment and Communication Are the Keys to Success” Max Moda, parent company of Freedomday and Outhere, is an exemplary company. 200 Sustainability Requires Time Farewell, fast fashion! Funky Staff turns everything upside down in favour of sustainability. 202 New Entrepreneurship What do modern-day founders do differently? A glimpse behind the curtain. 203 Energy and Method A protector manufacturer cooperates with Dior? D-Air Lab makes it possible. 205 “You Need To Know the Rules Before You Can Break Them” An interview with design talent Patrick McDowell. 208 “Decentralisation Is the Answer” A visionary of the New York retail community at only 24 years old: Dean Gilmartin of The Canvas. 211 “We Aspire To Be Role Models” Conveys a new fashion image of Turkey: FeminIst Fair Fashion. 212 Moving Minds New store concepts transcend the boundaries of online and offline. 022
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232 IN STORE 233 Immediate Impact Schwarz The Fashion Concept/Kassel 234 Family Business Anna – Das bin ich/Bocholt 236 Fashion Meets Dada Société Anonyme/Florence 238 Everything Here Is So New! Top Chic/Traunstein 239 Straight to the Heart Glüxmoment/Wels 240 Experiencing Luxury Anew Live Lab Studios/Düsseldorf 242 Urban & Rural Franz Kraler/Bolzano 244 First Movers Kleider Machen Leute & In the Box/Linz 246 “Our Product Range Is Custom-Made” Run Colors/Warsaw
248 EDITOR’S LETTER
The Future Is STILL Wide Open!
248 ABOUT US
RIGHT NOW FASHION
RIGHT NOW FA S H I O N
Rosa & Me
COLOUR, COLOUR, COLOUR
Dagmar von Schmaus has been designing extravagant, colourful cashmere collections for decades.
Thinking Ahead
Thinking outside the box: the master collection Outhere is evolving, characterised by diversity and innovation in terms of material. Highlights include fashionable pieces that show an inhomogeneous colour due to mineral dyes. Comfort stretch fabrics made of natural fibres lend classic pieces for men a modern ease. The multi-functional four-way stretch material derived from the sportswear segment is quick-drying and breathable.
MATERIAL INNOVATION Light materials and looks define the womenswear by Freedomday in the same way as they define its menswear. Style-formative and contemporary: Technical, high-quality materials that are lightly padded, signify function, and make the attention to detail tangible in every garment.
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Dagmar, where did you draw inspiration for the next summer collection 2023? Dagmar von Schmaus, founder of Rosa & Me: My inspiration for the upcoming cashmere collection can be divided into three main themes: colour cubed, French maritime style, and expressive prints. The colours I have chosen for summer 2023 are really bright and vibrant: plenty of neon shades – green, yellow, orange, and pink – some of them in striped patterns. The striped motif is, of course, also very strongly represented in maritime looks, but in blue and white. Classics are always popular and sell very well. I must not forget that during the design process (laughs). Regarding the printed models, we were keen to experiment and have, for example, printed white jumpers with digital palm tree motifs in different shades of green. Of course, one cannot ignore natural shades, resulting in different models in sand, white, beige, etc. Rosa & Me offers a wide range of different cuts and material combinations… Yes, it is important to me to cater to every type of woman: for those who like it boxy and simple, but also for those who are more partial to unusual cuts and fits. This collection once again features V-necks, round collars, slipovers, and cardigans in our four qualities: 100% cashmere, 70% wool and 30% cashmere, 90% wool and 10% cashmere, and the summery version of 85% cotton and 15% cashmere. The latter material blend in particular has developed very well: The t-shirts and trousers made of this fabric are extremely comfortable, ideal for at home and warm summer days outdoors. Statement jumpers are Rosa & Me’s trademark. Will they return for the upcoming 2023 summer season? Yes, absolutely. Needless to say, we will once again offer models with great slogans, but I do not want to spoil the surprise by revealing them this early. What I can reveal, however, is that, in addition to the statement models, there will be pieces featuring fashionable inlays, embroidery, and appliqués of all kinds. After all, we believe cashmere should be allowed to be fun.
RIGHT NOW FA S H I O N
A Sustainable Classic The Slammclassic by K-SWISS features iconic design dating back to 1966. The US brand now presents an updated version that pays special attention to sustainable manufacturing. The accompanying Legacy Maker campaign communicates the brand’s commitment to people and the environment. K-Swiss is particularly keen on reducing the impact of its tanneries, where the label aims to minimise energy and water consumption.
ts e prin s essiv tting cut i r p x E fi Ross nugand s Raffaelloe. give the edg
Raffaello Rossi
FEMALE EMPOWERMENT
JUST STOP OIL
“We are witnessing a war waged with fossil fuels and financed by oil,” asserts ARMED ANGELS founder and CEO Martin Höfeler. “We cannot afford to wait for governments to stop it. We need to force a change in legislation now. We have to force a shift towards renewable energy sources. Only radical action can ensure a safer and more equitable future for us all. Everyone can make a difference.” The brand itself is setting an example by supporting the Just Stop Oil movement. T-shirts featuring the slogan and other motifs can be ordered via the ArmedAngels website.
Raffaello Rossi takes the motto #empoweryourself literally and delivers a collection with new silhouettes, a wide variety of fabric qualities, and prints expressing self-evident femininity. The fit of the trouser specialist is a given, but the brand adds a special twist on fashion. This makes Raffaello Rossi a reliable partner for retailers. www.raffaello-rossi.de
Watch or act? For ArmedAngels, only the latter is an option, which is why the sustainable brand supports the Just Stop Oil movement.
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SUSTAINABILITY IN FOCUS Authentic styles made of materials with history, developed in direct routes in special collaborations: Stetson primarily relies on certified organic cotton, linen from Normandy, recycled materials, and environmentally friendly dyes for its expanded spring/summer 2023 sustainability capsule collection. The new campaign was shot in the production halls of French fabric specialist and long-time partner Velcorex. www.stetson-europe.com
A sustainable capsule by Stetson.
Colourful Beachwear
Portuguese footwear specialist LEMON JELLY presents vibrant summer styles. The brand impresses with a wide range of styles from sandals, slides, clogs, ankle-strap toe grabs, and platform sandals to beach bags in all manner of colours – all vegan and PETA-certified. For carefree summer days at the beach.
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offwithnature.com
RIGHT NOW FA S H I O N
Summer Chill
Light jackets, rain protection, waistcoats, summer down: successful Italian outerwear specialist CANADIAN CLASSICS continues to impress with many fashionable arguments in favour of wearing a jacket in warmer months. The brand constantly inspires with concentrated innovative power. Every time you think the jacket has been reinvented as often as possible, Canadian Classics pulls a new style out of the hat.
COMEBACK The Italian luxury brand Iceberg aims to be become more visible in 2022. The Gilmar label presented its show collection for the coming winter season with a fly-posting campaign in Berlin and elsewhere. Alongside jumpers and shirts with comic motifs, the focus is on progressively cut capes and jackets, as well as camouflage patterns. Is this just the tip of the iceberg? www.iceberg.com
Heinz Bauer Manufakt
ATHLETIC EASE
This extremely soft and thin lamb nappa jacket, manufactured in Germany to the very highest quality standards, delivers heavenly comfort. Light leather and perforation render the Donnington perfect for mild days and summer nights. Craftsmanship and attention to detail are reflected in the striking cut and the detachable wind-deflecting collar. www.heinzbauer.com
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Honest Knitwear
Does the perfect men’s jumper exist? SELDOM claims it does. Fabric and cut hint at the development work of the manufactory, which has devoted itself to the topic of all-season jumpers for three years and has reinterpreted sweatshirts in the process. Brushed cotton yarns and seamless knitting techniques create voluminous, lightweight knits that can be reversed. www.seldom-germany.de
Reduced to the essentials: knitwear by Seldom, made in Germany.
Gluckigluck
THE GURGLING FISH A vase? A carafe? The Gluckigluck carafe is predominantly the latter. It is aptly named as it gurgles audibly while pouring, bringing a smile to everyone’s face. Manufactured in England for over 170 years, Gluckigluck is now increasingly invading fashion and fashion concept stores such as Anna - Das bin ich and Wunderhaus. The selective distribution strategy is enforced by the small, passionate Ivoryi & Friends team. www.ivoryi-friends.de
Compliments guaranteed! The Alessandro Enriquez collection inspires new approaches to styling.
INTOXICATING
The gurgling carafe is available in 15 colours and three sizes, at retail prices ranging from 25 to 54 Euros.
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A spark that ignites: Sophie Lubenau and her sister Stephanie Erhard run three Erhard stores in Prien am Chiemsee. Both maintain close ties with their customers, both on social media and in the stores.
“The skirts by ALESSANDRO ENRIQUEZ represent pure emotion,” says Sophie Lubenau, owner of Mode Erhard. “The prints exude a zest for life! They encourage the customer to re-embrace feminine-chic, or create an extremely casual look featuring t-shirt, field jacket, and sneakers.” The fabrics have the look of silk. “Retail prices around 400 euros are equally convincing,” the entrepreneur argues. Each piece inspires just as much fun as the Italian designer’s instagram account. www.alessandro-enriquez.com
RIGHT NOW FA S H I O N
Lala Berlin/Merme Berlin
Clean Beauty Capsule The collaboration of lala Berlin and Merme
Berlin combines the innovation and spirit of Leyla Piedayesh’s fashion label with the sophistication of Claire Ralston’s skincare essentials. Only natural ingredients Made in Germany are used in the soothing aloe vera face and body spray, the nourishing facial oil made of cold-pressed plums, and the care stick made of pure cucumber seed oil. www.lalaberlin.com
Rossana Diva
DESIRABLE PRODUCT
Berit Petersdorf enjoys compiling the range according to colour and design, thus creating an inspiring visual experience in her Hamburg-based store Angelo’s.
JUBILATIONS
Cult brand Stone Island is treating itself to special fashion delicacies to mark its 40th anniversary. With selected drops and collections such as the high-profile STONE ISLAND X
SUPREME COLLABORATION in May, the brand constantly generates buzz. www.stoneisland.com
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“What we love about Rossana Diva? The variety of fabrics featuring multiple designs,” gushes Berit Petersdorf. “The Italian-produced blouses and dresses sell fantastically well, mainly because they are cheerful and uncomplicated. As a retailer, we can also vary certain styles in order to meet our customers’ needs.” At a mark-up of 3.0 to 3.5, purchase prices start at 38 euros. The complete service package works: many renowned retail concepts are partners of the Munich-based manufacturer. www.rossanadiva.de
When legends collaborate: Stone Island x Supreme.
CANADIANCLASSICS.IT
RIGHT NOW FA S H I O N
A flexible waistband renders GTA’s trousers particularly comfortable – even for wearers between sizes.
Circolo 1901
“BEST SEASON EVER”
Top Technology
Trousers by Italian specialist GTA bring innovation to life. The latest technological breakthrough is the patented waist comfort band, which ensures exceptional comfort even in non-elastic fabric qualities. Furthermore, the brand sets high standards in terms of fit, cut, and material for a classically athletic collection that is outstanding in terms of R&D on its quest for the perfect pair of trousers. www.gtamoda.com
Gennaro, some feedback on last season. We heard it was incredibly successful. Gennaro Dargenio, CEO of Circolo 1901: Yes, it was the best season ever. Thanks to the recovery of all markets and the excellent work of all agencies, Circolo 1901 surpassed its pre-Covid performance and achieved an unprecedented turnover. Heritage Showroom, in particular, has achieved exceptional results through commitment and tenacity. In which direction is the spring/summer collection 2023 evolving? The motto remains the same: comfort and ease. Meanwhile, our products and materials have become a must-have among customers. An example: our super-light piquet – which has always been used for t-shirts and polo shirts, but from which only Circolo 1901 manufactures jackets – is now virtually indispensable. Nobody wants to forego a jacket that feels like a t-shirt on the skin. The prints feature bright, natural colours, making it easy to combine elegant outfits even for the hottest summer days. The women’s cuts in particular are gaining volume and becoming more masculine. The typical Circolo woman dresses like a boy. How is work on the new company headquarters progressing? We plan to move into the new premises at the beginning of 2023. The substance of the building is 50 years old, dating back to 1972. The work is very demanding, as we intend to completely renovate the building while preserving the origin and history of the site. At the same time, we wish to incorporate our principles, such as simplicity. The furnishings are in line with minimalism’s “less is more” credo. A selection of objects with history is intended to create a place that provides a continuous source of inspiration for our creative endeavours. www.circolo1901.it
The campaign imagery reflects the soul of Circolo 1901: Italian flair and style.
Premium materials and catchy colourways: Saucony illustrates its fashion ambitions with special editions of classic icons such as the Shadow 6000.
Fashion Campaign
SAUCONY is steadily asserting its fashion ambitions with packs and specials that reinterpret iconic styles, such as the Shadow 6000 model, to create ontrend looks. For Paris Fashion Week, the brand has established its House of Originals. www.saucony.com
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FASHION
PICTURE THIS
Editor: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Brands
TRENDS + TENDENCIES
DENIM The Nim
BOLD PINKS Jet Set
CLEAN & LEAN Sassenbach
PLAYFUL Bob
LE T- SHIRT Strellson
HAUTE DETAIL Stetson
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Agentur Prins-Juric GmbH Europarc Dreilinden, Gebäude A2 Heinrich-Hertz-Straße 1c 14532 Kleinmachnow NOTSHY.FR
FASHION
Sportalm
Purschoen
Alberto
BOLD PINKS Back for good: colours from viola to magenta, liberated from all things girly, display their full potential. There is no either/or, no maybe. Those who choose these colours know that they are the center of attention, which is why the colours are so modern. The focus shifts back to fashion.
OWN
Orciani Pride to Be
Avant Toi Freedomday
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VISIT US IN BERLIN
7 – 9 JULY 2022
THE JEANS CHINO
LIGHT ORGANIC COTTON
FASHION
CLEAN & LEAN
Circolo 1901
Schneiders
One colour, one look. Can fashion be that simple? Yes, it can. The fascination of monochrome looks remains undiminished. It has long been proven that different shades of the same colour can be equally exciting. And honestly, tonal combinations are a feast for the eyes.
Alberto
Silk Sisters
Bogner
Myths
AlphaTauri Dolores
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PENNANDINK-NY.COM
FASHION
GTA
American Vintage
Avant Toi
DENIM
We love, love, love you! Modern denim is clean for a whole new reason. Fancy jeans have fallen into disrepute due to the environmental impact of treatments, finishes, and heavy washes. And that is a good thing – denim is at its most beautiful in simplicity anyway.
The Nim
Myths
Goldgarn
Joop Jeans
Manuel Ritz
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FASHION
HAUTE D E T A I L
Stetson
Outhere
Alberto
Duno
Freedomday
Ecoalf
Cintura
Strellson
The power of detail proves that a second look is always worthwhile. Smart and functional, yet so poetically beautiful: are these small, subtle nuances not the true assets of premium fashion? Extraordinary details inspired by a great deal of heart and soul.
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RESEARCH ATTITUDE myths.it
@myths_official
FASHION
Trusted Handwork
Mey American Vintage
Alberto Marc O’Polo
Sold Out
LE T- SHIRT Pride to Be
Mey
Long live the t-shirt. If you thought widespread enthusiasm for the t-shirt was over, you have certainly been proven wrong. Yes, you can always make a simple white shirt better, more beautiful, or more comfortable.
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FASHION
Canadian Classics
Purschoen
Windsor
Ecoalf
PLAYFUL Bob
Unreal Engine McQueen
Dinner date, grand entrance, or just for fun? Fashion is a game, and in that game, the latest fashion is often a costume. A cover that allows you to take on a new role for an evening. Probably the most beauti ful form of fashion.
Inoa
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Strellson
RIGHT NOW AGENCIES Die Hinterhofagentur
NEVER SAY NEVER AGAIN There is a new addition, or rather a returnee, to the portfolio of Die Hinterhofagentur: Hartford. Many years ago, the casual lifestyle brand from Paris only offered a menswear range, which was briefly distributed via the sales agency. In the meantime, the second generation of the Chareton family has assumed responsibility and now offers fashion for women, men, and children. “We are delighted to re-launch Hartford in Germany and Austria. I have always admired founder Yves Chareton’s sure sense of style. We maintained a friendly relationship over the years,” explains Dominik Meuer. The “total look” collection was originally inspired by American sportswear and combines it with French chic. The womenswear segment has become increasingly important and prominent within the collection over the last few seasons. Labels: Ad Hoc, Atelier Alpiniste, Bob, Bread & Boxers, Des Petits Hauts, Fourten, Koike, Hartford, Original Vintage Style, Portofiori, Prime Shoes, RRD, Sophie, Taylor Tweed, Wool & Co Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, info@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de Hartford is a re-addition to Die Hinterhofagentur’s portfolio.
Urban and functional: Wahts Amsterdam.
Agentur Knallgrau
FASHION COMPETENCE Noumeno is a promising new addition to Agentur Knallgrau, offering fashionable sportswear in a host of colourful styles for the summer. “The label represents an alliance of Italian designers based in Padua,” explains Harry Heinrich, who runs the sales agency in partnership with Bettina Groeger. Retail prices for sweats range are 139 euros, while t-shirts cost 99 euros. “Womenswear by Floor continues to develop splendidly; our collaborative partnership with the family business is exceptional,” Heinrich says. Knitwear manufactured on in-house circular knitting machines forms the heart of the collection, which is complemented by dresses, skirts, and trousers. Cute Stuff of Germany excels in scarves made of felted cashmere in 80 colours, complemented by travel bags and silk dresses. Labels: Cha, Cute Stuff, Floor, Magnolya, Mary’s by Mary, Noumeno, Poppy Field, Pom Amsterdam, Shirtaporter, Ventcouvert, Wuth Agentur Knallgrau, Munich/Germany, office@knallgrau- agentur.de, www. knallgrau-agentur.de Noumeno, a fashionable Italian sportswear specialist, is a newcomer to Agentur Knallgrau’s portfolio.
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Heritage Showroom
CRAFTSMANSHIP AND ZEITGEIST “Circolo has developed magnificently. The collection has been on the market for 15 years and is already entering its fifth year under our guidance,” says Malte Kötteritz, Managing Director of Heritage Showroom. “They were the first brand to offer a complete jersey collection and can now fully leverage their DNA to match the casual trend.” The Italian collection features blazers in several variations, accompanied by matching trousers and shirts. Another benefit is that Circolo is based on its customers. “Retail feedback is always considered; the sales reports are taken seriously,” Kötteritz emphasises. Wahts Amsterdam creates total look athleisure sportswear for men and now sharpens its focus on the functional aspect. Last summer, Heritage Showroom debuted Matéma. The collection of the Ancona-based family business is strong in knitwear that combines craftsmanship and zeitgeist. The oversized knitted t-shirts, short-sleeved blazers, and shorts, retailed gender-free, are all manufactured in Italy. Labels: Candy Candle Hamburg, Circolo 1901, Ko Samui Tailors, Matéma, Myths, Wahts Amsterdam Heritage Showroom, Munich/Germany, info@heritage-showroom.de, www.heritage-showroom.de
RIGHT NOW Ag e n c i e s
Room Nine Agency
EVERGREEN
Niklas Rill Agency
LIVING ROOM Niklas Rill’s agency welcomes men’s swim trunks by Arrels Barcelona. “The brand is exclusive to top retailers like Selfridges, Soho, and Luisa Via Roma,” says Rill. “My aim is to selectively expand sales in Germany and Austria.” Each print on the swim trunks made of recycled polyester is created by an artist conveying a special story. The retail price amounts to 140 euros. The Nim Standard is building on highly positive retailer feedback. “Bowery is going through the roof right now,” says Rill. “High-quality, coloured t-shirts are in high demand.” Knitwear by Scaglione once again inspires with innovative yarn developments, while maintaining its price structure. According to Rill, DU4 offers the highest quality shirts in a wide variety. “Starting this season, I am presenting my collections in my own showroom for the first time. I have a new living room, so to speak,” smiles Rill, looking forward to the first appointments of the season. Labels: Arrels Barcelona, Bowery NYC, DU4, Outhere, The Nim Standard, Scaglione Niklas Rill Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, niklasrill@icloud.com, www.niklasrill.de
Soft washed shirts and tops by Rails Men are typical L.A.
Rails Men of Los Angeles is a new addition to Torsten Müller’s portfolio. “The casually washed checked tops and shirts feature the typical L.A. style, in a unique, soft quality,” says Müller. “All can be changed” is the claim of ACBC sneakers, sustainable and certified. “The label also impresses with fantastic collaborations with Missoni or Save the Duck,” says Müller. Pringle Legwear of Scotland looks back on 120 years of tradition. The Argyles, which have been owned by the company for years, originate from real Scottish clans and are utilised for socks made of cashmere, bamboo, and cotton. Moschino swimwear and underwear remains an evergreen. “New from Ron Dorff, in addition to cashmere joggers and jumpers, is high-quality underwear made of Supima Cotton.” Eye-catcher: Hero Seven shirts featuring Steve Mc Queen and 007 motifs. Labels: ACBC, Hero Seven, Holubar, Moschino Underwear, Pringle Legwear, Rails Men, Ron Dorff, Soho New York Room Nine Fashion Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, torsten.mueller@roomnineagency.de, www.roomnineagency.de
Michaelis Fashion Agency
PARTNER
Niklas Rill showcases his collections in his own Düsseldorf showroom at Kaiserswerther Strasse 144 for the first time.
Crickit footwear for women is a new addition to Daniela and René Michaelis’ portfolio, featuring sneakers, handcrafted ballerinas, and Chelsea boots that are typical of the Hamburg-based label. “Crickit pays great attention to casualness and comfort,” says René Michaelis, who is the sales representative in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg. “The shoes round off our portfolio wonderfully and match the price range. Core retail prices range from 119 to 199 euros, underpinning premium retail prices.” Additionally, the agency offers high-quality knitwear by Crush and Absolut Cashmere, as well as colourful dresses, tunics, and shirts in bohemian style by Yippie Hippie, a reliable partner for retailers. Furthermore, the agency relies on the relaunch of Paul x Claire’s womenswear. “We strive to be a reliable partner for our customers and guarantee this reliability in supply chains,” emphasises René Michaelis. “Consistency is currently the main factor for buyers.” Labels: Absolut Cashmere, Crickit, Crush, Freedomday, Genesis, Goldgarn, Paul x Claire, Yippie Hippie Michaelis Fashion Agency, Munich/Germany, mail@michaelis-fashion-agency.com, www.michaelis-fashion-agency.com
Goldgarn Denim expands its collection towards premium fashion.
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RIGHT NOW Ag e n c i e s
Castañer has been a reliable partner of Agentur Evelyn Muth for 32 years.
Agentur Evelyn Muth
MORE DRESSY Christiane, which collection leaves a lasting impression on you? Christiane Peek, owner of Agentur Evelyn Muth: Castañer, because the collection is superb. It is timeless, fashionable, and luxurious. The brand now also offers a Red Carpet Edition. Women are once again in the mood to dress up. The general trend points to more dressy fashion. The label has created many feminine espadrille shapes and plans to surprise with an exciting collaboration partner this season. Which brand harbours particular potential? DKNY. Excellent feedback from major retail partners confirms that the brand is spot on in terms of fashion grade, high-quality workmanship, and attractive prices. The brand is highly popular
internationally, which is reflected in current sales and many new listings. DKNY, as an international brand with enormous drawing power at commercial prices, fills a gap in the market. The lamb nappa bags retail for between 250 and 320 euros, which is sensational considering the quality! What will you be showcasing at the Premium in Berlin? Le Tanneur. The fashionable bag collection is an explosion of colour. Le Tanneur has what it takes to become an icon. You can sense the heritage in the product, yet it never obstructs fashionable development. Labels: Arche, Avril Gau, Castañer, Clergerie, DKNY, Heschung, Le Tanneur Agentur Evelyn Muth, Düsseldorf/ Germany, info@evelynmuth.de, www.evelynmuth.de
TEXTILE BAGS
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“THE TRANSFERS ARE CONCLUDED” Henrik, you often say that your agency plays in the industry’s Champions League. So, who have you signed this season? Henrik Soller, co-owner of Komet und Helden: Three young talents and one superstar. The transfers are concluded, and we are delighted with the new arrivals, each of whom is a Komet und Helden brand in their own way. Let’s go. Talent number one… Florian Ranft, co-owner of Komet und Helden: Invicta, an iconic Italian brand with plenty of heritage, is exactly the kind of collection we love and handle best. Collaborations like the one with DSquared have put it on the map, so we see Invicta placed with urban customers. Talent number two… Henrik Soller: Diadora is a brand we really enjoy, as we love working with sports brands that are steeped in history. Boris Becker, Björn Borg, and even the Italian national basketball team, for example, have worn Diadora. The brand’s heritage is rooted in tennis and basketball, both of which are in tune with the zeitgeist. However, we do not plan to position the brand in a narrow and fashionable way, but to build on the full range that Diadora offers. And that extends from a real sports shoe to a “Made in Italy” sneaker from the Heritage line, which retails at around 200 euros. Talent number three… Florian Ranft: In This Shirt is a blouse collection from Prato, 100 percent “Made in Italy”. Superb fabrics result in modern blouses that combine well with collections such as AG Jeans. Very focused, very beautiful. Drum roll – the superstar… Henrik Soller: K-Way is nothing short of an icon – a cult brand like Vespa, which in essence we want to develop just as it represents. A democratic product that can be worn for hiking and in the football stadium. What about the regular squad? Florian Ranft: C.T. Plage is debuting its summer collection in Europe, featuring light knit qualities in its signature look. We are really looking forward to that. Labels: AG Jeans, Aniven, Aspesi, Baracuta, Barena Venezia (Men), Blauer USA, C.T. Plage, Deus Ex Machina, Diadora, Dickies, Filson, Halfboy, In This Shirt, Invicta, K-Way, Le Bonnet, ottod’Ame, Purple Brand, Save The Duck, 7for all Mankind, Spiewak, Universal Works, Varsity Headwear Komet und Helden, Düsseldorf & Munich/Germany, info@kometundhelden.de, www.kometundhelden.de
Good News Agency
The Via Mail Bag collection by designer Francesca was first introduced to the Italian market over ten years ago. Her love of intricate fabrics stems from her work as a fabric distributor. Her high-end, handcrafted line of textile bags is sold in stores such as Mirta and Arsenal Donna in Italy, as well as in export markets including Korea. “The bags need to be sophisticated and organic – anything but boring! I want them to compliment their bearers,” Francesca says. Munich-based Good News Agency, which caters to the German and Austrian markets, has already attracted accounts such as Appelrath, Breuninger, and Ludwig Beck. Retail prices range from 180 to 220 euros. Labels: Anokhi, Bomboogie, European Culture, Flona, Niu, Skills & Genes, Via Mail Bag Good News Agency, Munich/Germany, info@good-news-agency.com, @goodnewsagency
Komet und Helden
The handbags by Via Mail Bag are lovingly and intricately crafted. Italian icon K-Way is a new addition to Komet und Helden’s squad.
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Agentur Ventrella
“SPECIALISTS ARE OUR SUCCESS FACTOR”
Select Studios presents no less than four new top-notch additions to its portfolio: Stine Goya, Saucony Originals, Studio AR by Arma, and Norse Project.
Select Studio
Gaby, how did last season pan out for you? Gaby Ventrella, Agentur Ventrella: Dare I say it? It was great. It was an incredibly successful season. Not only did we record genuine growth, but we even exceeded our 2019 sales. We are still somewhat surprised by these results, as the global market situation was hardly optimal. We had not expected such success. So, what is the secret to this success? Our portfolio is excellently balanced and positioned. We represent niche brands alongside important mainstays such as Avant Toi, Bazar de Luxe, Tagliatore, blouses by Giemme Group (Caliban, Le Sagte Pettegole, Tintoria Mattei), Nove, and Nine in the Morning. They are all genuine specialists who know exactly what they are doing and with whom we maintain constant contact. Over the course of our long-term collaboration with manufacturers, we have developed a close creative relationship that is intensifying steadily, enabling us to achieve a healthy balance between fashion standards, craftsmanship, and retail demands. Customers can put together their looks from this pool of mono-products – we are basically like a deli. Yet we always strive to ensure that our prices remain pleasant surprises and entirely realistic considering the value of a high-end product. Have you added any new brands? We have, in fact, two new arrivals: AL_AIN and Inóa. The first brand hails from Italy and manufactures genderless sweatshirts featuring cool prints and appliqués - a touch bohemian, a touch streetwear... just what our portfolio was lacking. The second label, based in Australia, offers a resort collection made of 100 percent silk. Each season, it offers eight prints from which one can compile one’s own capsule: a total of 30 styles including dresses, tunics, skirts, and blouses. And for the autumn/winter 2022 season, we launched Bazar Crew, the male version of Bazar de Luxe. International market demand was growing ever more urgent, so we took the plunge, resulting in a great start to the winter season. Labels: 813, AL_AIN, Avant Toi, Backsideclub, Bazar Crew, Bazar Deluxe, Caliban, College, Ennequadro, Giovi, Inóa, Le Sarte Pettegole, Ndv Project, Nove, Nine in the Morning, Pao, Tagliatore, Tintoria Mattei Agentur Ventrella, Munich & Düsseldorf/ Germany, mode@agentur-ventrella.de, www.agenturventrella.de
FOUR NEWCOMERS The Munich-based agency assumed sales responsibility in Germany and Austria for the Originals line of sneaker brand Saucony. There are three sub-lines comprising the low-price entry-level category, the fashion line, and limited styles. Up to four delivery dates per season guarantee fresh merchandise at the POS. The average retail price is 130 euros. The vegan Mushroom Styles are a real highlight. The second newcomer is Danish designer Stine Goya, who offers pre- and two main collections per year, complemented by shoes, swimwear, and accessories. The Adonis knitwear series with checked patterns and two-colour colour blocking is an absolute highlight. Stine Goya attaches particular importance to sustainability, diversity, and inclusion. The third addition is Danish label Norse Project, known for its store in Copenhagen and numerous collaborations with other retailers and brands such as New Balance, Gore-Tex, and Porter. The complete collection consists of around 150 pieces, including accessories and footwear, and is marketed throughout the DACH region. The fourth new arrival is Studio AR by Arma of Amsterdam. The label offers around 140 stand-alone pieces per collection, with a focus on leather, suede, lambskin, and wool. Labels: among others By Malene Birger, Dante6, Envii, Garment Project, Gestuz, Gianni Chiarini, Liu Jo, Munthe, Norse Project, Oscar Jacobson, P448, Saucony Originals, Stine Goya, Studio AR by Arma, Suncoo Select Studio, Munich/Germany, hello@select-studio.com, www.select-studio.com
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The extremely cool, genderless sweatshirts of AL_AIN are new to Agentur Ventrella’s brand portfolio.
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Adventure Fashion Agency
CONTINUITY AND CONSOLIDATION
Agentur Matthias Schwarte
NEXT GENERATION The new arrival at Agentur Schwarte is currently finding its way from a fledgling Viennese multi-label store to the wardrobes of superstars. For the S/S 2023 collection of around 50 pieces, Whyat maintains the focus on athleisure and sharpens it by matching selected elements of American college sports and trend-oriented colours. Out of love and passion for sport and culture, the brothers and founders Philipp and Bernhard Ledl remain true to their creative and athletic background by combining sustainable premium qualities with innovative streetwear elements. Manufacturing takes place in Italy. The self-created cuts and designs are aimed at open-minded, independent, and cultivated characters. Support comes from international role models and superstars such as Chris Brown and Karim Benzema. Retail partners include BSTN, Breuninger, and Modehaus Schnitzler. Labels: Armani Exchange, Balr, Collezione 01, Daniele Fiesoli, Fil Noir, Mason Garments, Parajumpers, People of Shibuya, Replumé, Rubirosa, Sundek, Weber + Weber, Whyat Agentur Schwarte, Munich/Germany, office@agentur-schwarte.de, www.agentur-schwarte.de
Trusted Handwork’s menswear performed well enough to justify the introduction of a womenswear equivalent.
Marc Kofler and the Adventure Fashion Agency team are looking forward to the upcoming sales campaign. The previous season provided reasons for optimism: “All our brands performed well, and we intend to focus on continuity by consolidating our portfolio in the immediate future. Being a reliable partner and offering excellent collaboration have been our strengths in recent years, and we would like to further optimise these aspects.” Italian down manufacturer Duno, for example, managed to deliver on time despite major delays on the production side, while consistently providing excellent service. The effort has paid off: the brand now supplies 150 stores in Germany and Austria. Trusted Handwork is another standout performer. The label manufactures fair and sustainable menswear basics made of 100 percent cotton. It is stocked by Germany’s top retailers such as Braun, Breuninger, Lodenfrey, Schnitzer, and Wagner. “Given the success of the menswear line, the brand has decided to introduce a womenswear equivalent as of spring 2023. We are really looking forward to that.” Labels: 120% Lino, ADD, Cosy Love Pure, Dekker, DL1961 Denim, Duno, iHeart, Janthee Berlin, Kashette, Odd Molly, Orciani, Rosa & Me, Sebago, Tonno & Panna, trvl drss, Trusted Handwork, W6YZ Adventure Fashion Agency GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@adventure-gmbh.de, www.adventure-gmbh.de
Heubel Modeagentur
NEW SHIRT SPECIALIST
Whyat of Vienna is gaining serious momentum.
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As of this order round, sales of Emanuel Berg men’s shirts in Germany and Austria are handled by Mark Heubel’s agency. The brand has specialised in made-tomeasure shirts since the 1980s. Ready-to-wear shirts complement the range. Manufacturing takes place in Poland, near Gdansk on the Baltic Sea. In terms of fabrics, Emanuel Berg collaborates with the best weaving mills in Europe, e.g. Thomas Mason, Albini, Testa, and Alumo. Thereby, Heubel continues to take his retail partners’ desire for individual products made in Europe into account. Labels: Corte di Kel, Desoto Luxury, Di Poldo, Emanuel Berg, Gloverall, Handmacher, Heinz Bauer Manufakt, Lodenfrey, Wallmann Heubel Modeagentur, Düsseldorf/ Germany, mark@heubel.info, www.heubel.info
Made-to-measure: Heubel Modeagentur’s new shirt brand, Emanuel Berg.
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Modeist
ON POINT
Tombolini specialises in modern ready-to-wear fashion: elegant, athletic, and cool.
Elvis Fashion Agency
“(MODERN) READY-TOWEAR IS BACK”
Product highlights whose desirability is immediately apparent are the mission of Marion and Timothy Hoferer of MODEist. A new addition to the fashion agency’s portfolio is Catarzi 1910. The family-run manufactory from Florence specialises in hats, bags, and home accessories, primarily made of natural materials such as raffia, straw, and Japanese paper. MODEist now represents Floer Fashion in Bavaria and Austria, as well as Camouflage Couture in the southern half of Germany and Austria. Also new: blogger label Ayen of Munich and, last but not least, C968, a new, red-hot Italian sneaker label for women and men. “The new arrivals, coupled with our best-selling collections Sold Out, Dolores, and Pride to Be, represent an inspiring mix for our customers. Add to that all-time favourites like Sassenbach or Seamless Basic and eye-catchers like Wald Berlin, and we are perfectly equipped for the upcoming season,” says Marion Hoferer. Labels: Ayen, Alpaca Loca, C 968, Camouflage Couture, Catarzi 1910, Cintura, Dolores, Floer, Lost in Me, Pride to Be, Sassenbach, Seamless Basic, T-Coat, Wald Berlin MODEist, Munich & Düsseldorf/ Germany, info@b-kleidung.com, www.modeist.com
Elvis, what made you happy in the past few months? Elvis Giglione, owner of Elvis Fashion Agency: It was a season packed with positive surprises. The relaxation of corona measures showed its effects quickly: emotion returned to the sales floor and sales have picked up again. Our ready-to-wear brands in the highend segment actually enjoyed the greatest success, whereby the decisive factor is that their look is new and modern – today’s ready-to-wear no longer looks like it did five years ago. Brands such as Tombolini, Cruna, and Fioroni Cashmere understand this, which is why these brands perform so well at amazing menswear stores. Hasardeur in Münster sold out the Tombolini collection in no time and had to reorder. The same happened with Cruna and Fioroni at Lodenfrey. Smooth resupply remains a key asset. Your forecast for the upcoming season? Individuality and innovation are crucial aspects. People have a desire for new things, especially in ready-to-wear. The desire to dress up is back, as long as it is casual and new. I can serve this market very effectively with my portfolio. That is why I expect the season for men’s fashion in general to develop really well. Labels: Brooksfield, Capobianco, Cruna, Fioroni Cashmere, Francesco Pieri, Manto, The Gigi, Tombolini Elvis Fashion Agency, Munich/Germany, elvis.giglione@elvis-fashion.com, www. elvisfashion.com
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Agentur Klaus “We have added Knit-ted as a new label for Austria,” says Christian Klaus, owner of the eponymous agency. “Knitwear and jersey styles are pure and playful alike, combining comfort and high quality as characteristic features. The collection from Amsterdam embraces the concept of slow fashion and focuses on the contrasts between masculine and feminine style elements.” Klaus aims to offer both novelty and continuity. “We strive to trigger buying impulses, and this is achieved with exciting brands that tell a product story.” www.modeagentur-klaus.at
Daily Business welcomes Cuccia
The Wearhouse/ Agentur Daily Business “We are delighted to welcome Cuccia,” says Patrick Ebnoether,
With its premium positioning, Floer is an ideal addition to MODEist. The agency now represents the brand in Bavaria and Austria.
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hristian Klaus introduces Knit-ted to Austria.
owner of The Wearhouse and Daily Business. The collection comprises about 30 pieces, many of which are styles in two-thread cashmere in 12-gage and 6- to 8-gage. The colours are particularly convincing, ranging from soft to strong tones. FFC Cashmere, Velvet, and Wunderfell, among others, are also represented by Daily Business. “Sales of FFC Cashmere and Dea Kudibal in particular are developing positively. The latter is gaining retail relevance.” www.dailybusiness.ch, www.wearhouse.ch
STEHMANN-STORE.DE
COLLECTION SUMMER 2023
GET IN CONTACT
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Agentur Prins-Juric
Ben and
HAPPY CLIENTS
One must doff one’s hat to that: Ben and is particularly prolific in convincing D2C brands that they also need a wholesale strategy. After brands like NA-KD, Weekday, and Gina Tricot, footwear brand Allbirds is yet another prominent name celebrating its B2B premiere alongside Ben Botas and his team. A new addition of which one can be justifiably proud – and to which the agency owner attaches corresponding importance by creating a separate footwear department. It is headed by Marius Weykamp, who can draw on many years of sales experience in the footwear sector. Hi-Tec, La Martina, Off-Play, Loci, and Allbirds are now united under one umbrella, empowered to continue their expansion in the DACH region. The young fashion nucleus within the agency, featuring NA-KD, Gina Tricot, and Weekday, is also evolving into a strategic evergreen. “We opened another showroom for these brands within a five-minute walk from our headquarters in Munich,” says Botas. Labels: Allbirds, Axel Arigato, Beck Söndergaard, Chimi, Cashmere Me, Elias Rumelis, Filippa K, Free People, GCDS, Gina Tricot, Les Visonnaires, La Martina, Loci, Mason’s, Minimum, Moose Knuckles, NA-KD, Peuterey, Rag & Bone, Second Female, Stefan Brandt, Weekday, Wood Wood Ben and, Munich & Düsseldorf/Germany, agency@ben-and.com, www.ben-and.com
They are the feelgood duo of the sales community: Damir Prins-Juric and Henk Prins are the driving force behind the success of the agency, which covers the entire German and, for some labels, Austrian market with offices in Berlin, Düsseldorf, Hamburg, and Munich. “We are constantly on the lookout for motivated staff, especially in Düsseldorf, and look forward to receiving applications,” says Damir Prins-Juric, addressing one of the hot topics by name. “The personnel shortage has arrived in our industry.” This makes it all the more important for agencies to harness social media. “For example, we added Amaranto, a fantastic Italian knitwear label, to our portfolio very late last season – and we actually managed to attract a few customers via our Instagram stories.” This season’s new arrivals in a Damir word-rap: “Super scarves by Cute Stuff, I love my pants by a former Monochrome designer, Newtone, KK Kulture, and Theras.” Labels: 1-one, Afterlabel, Amaranto, Ana Alcazar, Barb’One, Cacatoes, Camouflage Couture, Cute Stuff, De’Hart, Devotion Twins, Emily Love Lock, Emma & Gaia, Floor, Ganesh, Herzensangelegenheit, Husky, I love my Pants, Icon, Ivko, Johnny Was, Just Mine, Kandid Shoes, KK Kulture, Koon, Les Tricots d’O, Love Joy Victory, Newtone, Nimo with Love, Not Shy, Oneteaspoon, Own offwithnature, Penn & Ink N.Y, Rebelle, Smaak Amsterdam, Smashed Lemon, Socks CPH, Theras, Tocco, Voluspa, Wushu Agentur Prins-Juric, Berlin Düsseldorf Hamburg & Munich/Germany, agentur@prins-juric.com, www.prins-juric.com
THE NEXT STEP
Paul Schulz creates style worlds in his showroom in Düsseldorf.
Paul’s Selection
PERCEPTIBLE COLLECTIONS Sonrisa, featuring shirts for men and women designed and manufactured in Italy, is a new addition to Paul Schulz’s agency. “A particular strength are jersey shirts and blouses, which do not stretch with use,” says Schulz. A core collection at Paul’s Selection is GTA, incorporating plenty of craftsmanship and research for trousers with optimal comfort. Overall, Schulz intends to strengthen his womenswear portfolio. He is also keen on presenting his collections in style worlds within his showroom, thus making fashion even more tangible by showing examples of how they could be presented in a retail environment. “The worlds range from classic and casual to technical and functional,” says Schulz. So far, the agency has been a one-man show, but Schulz now wishes to assemble a small team. “Excellent service is imperative for our retail customers, and I strive to continue providing it.” Labels: Arovescio, Bevilacqua Vicenza, Fabiano Ricci, GTA, Ghirardelli, Henderson, I’m Fine, Sonrisa, Veneta Cinture Paul’s Selection, Düsseldorf/Germany, office@paulsselection.com, www.paulsselection.com
Allbirds celebrates its wholesale premiere with Ben and.
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Mr & Mr Feelgood: Damir Prins-Juric and his partner Henk Prins.
Orderlounge “We expect great things from our new addition Genuins,” says
Orderlounge owner Darius Herges. “The brand is backed by a company with expertise in organic sandals and espadrilles, which has produced for Birkenstock in the past and also manufactures models for brands such as Off White, Pams Angels, or Valentino. Everything is made in Spain, even the clasps come from Europe. Consequently, there are no delivery issues.” The perfect complement to shoes from best-selling brands such as Blauer USA, Napapijri Footwear, Wrangler, Pepe Jeans, and No Name, which Orderlounge presents in its showroom at Drahthaus Düsseldorf. The agency is also attending Shoes Düsseldorf. www.orderlounge.de
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Abstract design patterns, a range of colourful jacquards, and lightweight fabrics embody the spirit of freedom throughout the RRD capsule.
RRD
ESSENTIAL PROJECT In July, the RRD_Essentials project premieres at the POS through selected retail partners. It will be expanded for the spring/summer 2023 season. The project comprises a range of bestsellers from previous collections. As a natural selection of menswear basics, these archive highlights are now being continued within the Essentials project, irrespective of season. The foundation of the material selection for this archive collection is formed by the technically pioneering fabrics developed by RRD itself over many years. With the introduction of this line, RRD responds to significant growth and high demand from both domestic and international markets. “We have been working very hard
on increasing our production capacity over the last few months, as we were confronted with capacity bottlenecks and extremely extended delivery deadlines. In order to be able to react quickly to these challenges, we immediately initiated steps to fundamentally reorganise workflows and ensure that all product development, supply chain sourcing, and production resource planning processes run much more efficiently. This advancement, as radical as it is necessary, allowed us to launch the RRD_Essentials project for autumn/winter 2023 in stores as early as July and thus remain competitive going forward,” says RRD CEO Roberto Ricci. In Germany, RRD is represented by Munich-based Die Hinterhofagentur, whereas the Austrian market is served by A Room With A View of Salzburg. www.robertoriccidesign.com
Nubikk
FRESH & CLEAN Alongside premium sneakers, Dutch brand Nubikk introduces a range of open-toed leather shoes in trendy nineties silhouettes for the coming summer. Nubikk’s Norah Jones leather heeled mules, for example, can be easily adjusted via Velcro. The mules come in three contemporary colours and can be combined with both feminine and masculine outfits. Yet another bestseller is already emerging: the Basket Buxton for men and women with perforated toe caps and side inserts in up to six colours. Inspired by urban culture, the sneakers combine retro design
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elements from skateboarding and basketball cultures. These low-top styles, crafted in Portugal from premium leather, are equipped with lightweight soles and a padded tongue for added comfort. Subtle branding, large black eyelets, and wide laces complete the look. Also new are a sock line and a broadened bag collection. Roshan Paul of Rosh Studio in Munich is the sales representative for the DACH region. www.nubikk.com
Nubikk’s summer collection is light and airy.collection is light and airy. in den Sommer.
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Alberto
BORN & FINISHED BIKE PANTS
Timeless design and a mono-material concept lend Ecoalf‘s new flagship its unmistakable aesthetics.
Ecoalf
NEW FLAGSHIP IN PARIS Spanish sustainable lifestyle brand Ecoalf has opened yet another flagship store in Le Marais in the heart of the French capital, following in the footsteps of launches in metropolises such as Madrid, Berlin, Barcelona, and Tokyo. The clean and minimalist design of the 150-square-metre shop on “Rue du Temple” is inspired by the brand‘s principle of maximising the use of recycled materials. The walls are clad entirely in recycled cotton remnants, reflecting Ecoalf‘s design, sustainability, and innovation concept of minimising the use of virgin raw materials and making existing resources recyclable. The sales area is divided into a room for the premium line Ecoalf 1.0, alongside a further room for the main line supplemented by footwear and accessories. www.ecoalf.com
Cycling is one of the most sustainable means of transport. Alberto has been committed to getting things rolling for 100 years. To mark the anniversary, the trouser label is treating itself and others to a very special gift: the brand new Born & Finished bike pants, which were created in collaboration with 140Fahrenheit. Marco Lanowy, Managing Director of Alberto: “As a forward-looking company, it is important to saddle up and literally put sustainable trousers on track.” The new bike pants were created in the trouser label’s own think tank and refined in the immediate vicinity of its headquarters. 140Fahrenheit, the startup of brothers Felix and Max Holtgrave, relies on lasers, as well as GOTS-certified enzymes and ozone. The water consumption required is 75 percent lower than in conventional processes. Energy is sourced exclusively from regional wind farms and, in the near future, from in-house solar plants. “A pioneering approach that everyone can support with a clear conscience: we, our customers, and the entire industry. Especially as 140Fahrenheit is also located in Mönchengladbach. This eliminates long transport routes and, as self-confessed local patriots, we can also do something positive for the region,” says Lanowy. From a technical and functional point of view, the bike pants impress with a high cut in the seat area and a flexible waistband. The fabric’s bi-elasticity is adapted to the movements of cyclists. Cleverly positioned reflectors ensure safety. www.alberto-pants.com
Raffaello Rossi
PRODUCT STRENGTH
Ralf Schellenberger, founder of Raffaello Rossi, is the driving force behind Raffaello Rossi.
Raffaello Rossi is also synonymous with reliability and on-time delivery. How do you guarantee that in the face of mounting supply chain problems? Ralf Schellenberger, founder of Raffaello Rossi: By ordering 50 percent of the raw material for the pre-order entirely at our own risk. This allows us to deliver on time. We have drawn up a forecast for the autumn/ winter reorder and are now ordering 100 percent of the required raw material. The styles are still adaptable, but the outer fabric and colours are determined. This means that repeat orders are covered as long as stocks last. How do you cope with highly dynamic price developments? We only partially pass on price increases, increasing the retail price by a mere seven to eight percent. Which product strengths are you planning to expand? We will maintain the popular jog styles and present innovative novelties. In terms of jeans, we intend to focus on colour and printed denim. Wide trousers made of linen, cotton, viscose, and poly-fibres are here to stay; they definitely harbour must-have potential.
In collaboration with 140Fahrenheit, Alberto has proven that regional supply chains work.
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Drykorn
SHOW YOUR FACE Drykorn relies on personal encounters. To this end, the brand is present at both Berlin trade shows Seek and The Ground. The latter is Premium Group’s D2C event, which is primarily aimed at young consumers and takes place at the same time as Premium and Seek. Drykorn’s #NOFAKES campaign invites people to participate and poses the question of what is real and what is fake. Social media is flooded with perfectly smooth visuals, with honesty and authenticity often falling by the wayside. The brand from Kitzingen aims to challenge this status quo and sensitise the community to the issue. One’s own passport photo is usually brutally honest, which is why one can have it printed on a Drykorn shirt during event to become part of the campaign. An innovative idea to get potential new customers excited about the brand in a playful way. Drykorn is also moving forward in terms of distribution. Its formal menswear was shown for the first time during the Paris Fashion Week in a showroom in the Marais district in June, signalling the further internationalisation of the fashion brand, which is primarily represented in the DACH market. Independent multi-brand retailers and department stores beyond the existing core markets were invited from Scandinavia, France, Spain, and the UK. www.drykorn.com
Drykorn is present at The Ground with its #NOFAKES campaign, exhibiting for the first time at a consumer trade fair.
Drykorn’s motto fits perfectly: There is nothing more beautiful than real life.
The pastures in Artigas, Uruguay, are ideal for sustainable and responsible animal husbandry.
Botto Giuseppe e Figli Spa
NEW PARTNER FARM IN URUGUAY The wool and cashmere experts from Valle Mosso near Biella have always been committed to a transparent and fair supply chain: “Sustainable thinking is our credo. We look for partners around the world who put the environment and people first, just as we do,” says Silvio Botto Poala, CEO of Botto Giuseppe. La Porfia Farm in Artigas, Uruguay, is the latest partner of the Italian company. The farm is run by Fernando Artola as a family business. Here, in the north of the country, on the border with Brazil and Argentina, around 20,000 Merino sheep are bred for wool production on an area of approximately 30,000 hectares. 15 employees work with Fernando Artola and tend to the flock on horseback. This traditional work method is particularly environmentally friendly.
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Pitti Uomo Florenz 14.06.-17.06.22 Showroom DRAHTHAUS Düsseldorf 20.06.-15.09.22 Supreme Women Men München 06.08.-09.08.22
Showroom DRAHTHAUS | Kaiserswerther Straße 137 | D 40474 Düsseldorf fon.: +49 - 211 45 97 60 | www.heubel.info | office@heubel.info
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Cultural history and artisan tradition: Stetson-Europe sponsors an exhibition project that focuses on hats and caps. It starts in October at the Bavarian National Museum in Munich.
GTA
FEEL GOOD!
Stetson Europe x Bayerisches Nationalmuseum
HEADS UP – HATS, HOODS, HIP-HOP CAPS Art and culture enthusiasts can look forward to a special exhibition from October 2022 to April 2023 entitled Heads Up – Hats, Hoods, Hip-Hop Caps at the Bavarian National Museum, sponsored by Stetson Europe supplier Friedrich W. Schneider and backed by a number of exhibits from the Stetson archives. Several original items of headgear from the museum’s unique collection, including pieces worn by Bavarian kings and queens such as Ludwig I or the fairy-tale king Ludwig II, offer the first comprehensive overview of the multifaceted development of this fashionable accessory from the Middle Ages to present day. Princess Gloria von Thurn und Taxis has assumed patronage of the exhibition and contributed two original objects from her personal collection. In addition to sartorial history, the exhibition also broaches social and economic contexts while exploring a wide variety of materials and manufacturing techniques. The Bavarian National Museum is one of the largest museums in Germany and is one of the most significant and distinctive buildings of its time. It presents European art and cultural history with diverse collections from late antiquity to Art Nouveau. www.stetson-europe.com
Strong men: Mey’s Popeye capsule is fun.
Mey
POPEYE CONNECTION Everybody knows the spinach-eating sailor Popeye. The Mey brand now offers a capsule starring the cult character, featuring t-shirts, swimwear, nightwear, and underwear for men. It comprises twelve looks in nautical colourways, which are available online, in Mey stores, and at specialised retail outlets in the DACH and Benelux markets. The day- and nightwear is made of GOTS certified sustainable organic cotton containing spandex and has been certified with the Green Button textile seal. Retail prices range from 29.95 to 79.95 euros. www.mey.com
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GTA Moda emphasises the importance of feeling good. To this end, the Italian trouser specialist has recently introduced an extraordinary innovation: a so-called waist comfort band that creates an elastic waistband that is not recognisable as elastic and functions equally well in non-stretchy outer fabrics. “We realised that our technology is capable of helping people feel better and in harmony with their body shape,” explains Carlo Soglia, CEO of GTA Moda. “The desire to contribute to the wellbeing of the wearer has become the guiding principle for our trouser production.” The patented technology represents a milestone for the tradition-rich company, which has been producing customised trousers since 1955. Simultaneously, it is an incentive to take further steps forward. Following a rebranding process resulting in a new visual identity, new logo, website, and increased marketing power, GTA recently entered the B2C market. An online configurator for madeto-measure trousers for men and women was rolled out on www.gtamoda.com in mid-May, allowing customers to create their own custom-fit trousers. “We intend to transition to slower fashion to avoid overproduction and resource waste,” says Soglia. The collection for men features several styles with a slim to wide fit in an exceptional variety of colours. To date, the brand offers three models for women alongside unisex styles – both areas are being gradually expanded. GTA plans to expand its international sales network, especially in the Benelux countries and Scandinavia. In the DACH market, the sales agency Paul’s Selection continues to pursue a selective expansion strategy. “I am passionate about GTA because fashion grade and function are spot on,” says agency owner Paul Schulz. “What excites me most about the ‘comfort waist band’ innovation? The waistband does not wear out and the wearing comfort is almost impossible to describe. You simply have to experience it in person.” In the showroom in Düsseldorf’s Cecilienallee 40, for example. www.gtamoda.com
Innovative, urban, and fashionable: trousers by GTA are now even more comfortable to wear then they suggest upon first glance.
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Luis Trenker
Michi Klemera is inspired by the creativity of our industry every day. The Luis Trenker founder loves to surprise and inspire his customers and partners.
“CARRYING OUR MOUNTAINS INTO THE WORLD” Michi, Luis Trenker is back at Pitti Uomo. A heart’s desire come true? Michi Klemera, founder of Luis Trenker: Absolutely. The Pitti Uomo in Florence is the place to be if you want to compete with the best in the world. It is definitely the perfect place for Luis Trenker to carry our style, fashion, and mountains out into the world. This also implies that Luis Trenker is shifting its focus back to specialist retailers. In recent years, you have invested heavily in your own sales channels and online presence. I never saw it as an either/or proposition, and I believe every successful retailer knows that all channels reinforce each other. I always consider an independent fashion retailer, no matter from which country or segment, an important partner. I am delighted that we will be hosting a beautiful gala evening for these retailers at Schloss Leopoldskron in Salzburg in July. This is our way of saying thank you to our partners for allowing us to celebrate success despite the adversities of the last two years. How is the mood now? What are your expectations for the season? From an entrepreneurial point of view, we are proceeding with caution. Now is not the time for additional risks, because this senseless war naturally affects morale. Even if it does not directly affect our company, we are all human beings and feel for those who lose their lives or livelihoods.
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The supply chain is probably the hottest topic in the industry at the moment. It is challenging in every detail, for the entire industry. As a brand, you have to consider every fabric, yarn, or button. Will the price hold? Will the delivery date hold? We are a little less affected by the supply chain challenges, as we have consistently relied on short chains for years. Luis Trenker manufactures in Italy, Romania, and Portugal, but even these countries can throw up surprises. Our response is to steadily re-increase the Italian manufacturing share, which is an essential element of our slow fashion philosophy. I love Italian creativity and I am happy that Luis Trenker allows us to interpret it in a distinctive way. Your models need to be mountain ready this year too… Yes, I am really looking forward to sharing the campaign images and videos. We shot at 2,000 metres, staging the mountains as a backdrop that reflects our roots, our home. We finally got to unleash our full potential again. I love surprising and inspiring my partners and customers. That is one of the best aspects of my job. How have the new sales partnerships in Germany fared? Great! Our man in Germany, Kai Joerdens, has done a fantastic job, especially in getting the north excited about our brand. A presence at the trade show at Böhler Areal in Düsseldorf
provides us with an important local platform. Is that the formula for the future? A leading international trade show followed by the best regional service platform or own showrooms. The answer for Luis Trenker is a resounding yes. We do not need to wander from trade show to trade show. We have a clear picture of who we wish to address and do not wait until the desired partner happens to walk up to our stand at a trade fair.
CRUNA.COM
PREMIUM BERLIN | HALL HIGH – H16 A06 | ELVIS FASHION AGENCY – ELVIS.GIGLIONE@ELVIS-FASHION.COM
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An exciting mix of collections in an equally exciting setting: Fashn Rooms in Düsseldorf.
Fashn Rooms
SHOWPIECE
Bonjour, Paris: Marc O’Polo is not only opening a 250-square-metre store in the French capital, but also a hybrid showroom.
The Düsseldorf event Fashn Rooms is expanding its concept by adding two additional spaces at Areal Böhler. Additionals takes the concept store idea further and is conceptualised in collaboration with the Beauty Forum. “We strive to present products such as cosmetics, costume jewellery, and scented candles that are fun and generate additional sales for retailers,” says Ulrike Kähler. The Green Room is dedicated to sustainable fashion, which is the trade fair’s response to the increasing demand and necessity within the fashion industry to act in a more sustainable manner. A special feature in the hall is the presence of Store 13, a concept store from Herford that demonstrates how modern and appealing the sustainability topic can be implemented in retail. Internationally positioned Shoes Düsseldorf is the second format of the Igedo Company to occupy all Areal Böhler halls at the end of August. This event is also evolving steadily. www.igedo.com Fashn Rooms: 23rd to 25th of July 2022, Fashn Rooms Showroom Concept: 21st to 25th of July 2022, Shoes Düsseldorf: 28th to 30th of August 2022
Marc O’Polo
VIVE LA FRANCE
Schneiders
IN THE HEART OF SALZBURG
The lifestyle brand from Stephans kirchen is significantly expanding its presence in France. Recently, the brand opened its own store in the Marais and a showroom to drive its local B2B business. Marc O’Polo’s France campaign starts from an excellent position, with the brand building on its long-standing wholesale and concession business, its own online store, and its own stores at Printemps and Galeries Lafayette. The 250-square-metre store and the nearby hybrid showroom also fly the Marc O’Polo flag internationally, as Paris not only caters to both French and international B2B customers. www.marc-o-polo.com
Schneiders now presents its products in a new showroom located in an art nouveau villa on the banks of the Salzach River in Salzburg, thus underlining a commitment to continuous collection development and gaining a solid foothold in the premium segment. The showroom with the address Giselakai 51 is within walking distance of the Schneiders headquarters at Griesgasse 31, which is also home to the brand’s first own store worldwide. www.schneiders.com
Glamorous backdrop: Schneiders underpins its premium aspirations with its new showroom.
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SALT offers buyers and exhibitors a relaxed working atmosphere at Gusswerk in Salzburg.
Leonie Hanne x Liu Jo
RADIANT CAPSULE COLLECTION
Do you prefer candy, pastel, neon, glitter, or fluorescent moments? The capsule collection by Liu Jo and influencer Leonie Hanne is an accessory turned candy bar dream that celebrates both parties’ dedication to fashion. The influence of the German cosmopolitan can be discerned in the colour concept and style, complemented by the glamour and dynamism of the Italian brand. The result is a range of accessories with ironic glamour yet understated design. www.liujo.com
SALT Ordertage Salzburg
FOCUS ON THE ESSENTIAL
“This is an attractive and competent platform for buyers, manufacturers, and agencies,” promises Hubert Stolzlechner of Modeagentur Stolz. He is referring to the next Order Days, which he is hosting with Petra Kogler of co-organiser Gusswerk in Salzburg on the 19th and 20th of July 2022. The duo launched the Order Days, featuring an industry get-together, in the midst of the pandemic and have now bestowed it with an appropriate name: SALT. “We present collections that are committed to tradition, but also go beyond the theme of Tracht,” Stolzlechner vows. SALT not only represents Salzburg, but also indicates a focus on essentials – regardless of whether regionally or internationally inspired, committed to Tracht or modernity. Gusswerk is a revitalised, trendy industrial site on the outskirts of the city that offers sufficient space for the ever-growing number of exhibitors. Above all, the platform aims to appeal to lifestyle collections
The new branding of the SALT Order Days: a clear, reduced appearance with a strong Salzburg connection.
that are characterised by craftsmanship, quality, heritage, and tradition. Fashion brands such as Von & Zu, Ostwald Ledermanufaktur, Meindl Fashion, josef&anna, or Grenzgang appear alongside renowned traditional manufacturers. SALT offers buyers and exhibitors a bespoke environment comprising an all-round package in a stimulating, productive atmosphere. The come-together evening on the 19th of July combines regional snacks, drinks, and music with effective networking. SALT Order Days Salzburg, Gusswerk SALT 01: 19th and 20th of July 2022, SALT 02: 26th to 28th of August 2022 www.salt-salzburg.at
Comfy fit: footwear by Crickit from Hamburg.
Crickit
SIGNATURE STYLE
Creative partnership: Liu Jo has once again signed up top German influencer Leonie Hanne for a collaboration.
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The Hamburg-based shoe label is known for casual design, attention to detail, and high-quality workmanship. This applies to sneakers, soft sacchetto ballerinas, and trendy Chelseas, Crickit’s signature style. The shoes are available in stores such as Breuninger or Storefolk in Siegen, at retail prices ranging from 139 to 199 euros. The collection is represented in Germany by regional textile agencies. Agentur Michaelis recently assumed responsibility for sales in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg, starting with the 2023 spring-summer season. www.crickit.de
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The trade fair creators of Berlin: Jörg Arntz and Anita Tillmann.
Premium Group
“EVERYTHING IS NEW”
When a trade show sets the stage for perfectly staged storytelling and pitches: the industry meets at the Premium, Seek, and The Ground from 6th of July 2022.
“This is the kick-off for a new era of industry meetings that used to be known as trade fairs,” Anita Tillmann and Jörg Arntz are convinced. For its revival in Berlin, the Premium Group is not only changing their location, but also opening up to end consumers for the first time by introducing The Ground. The triumvirate of Premium, Seek, and The Ground promises to make the event particularly exciting. Tillmann: “The new benchmark is a positive coming together of the entire industry and I am looking forward to that. We have all experienced a reset. The past two years have ushered in a completely new approach to work, and actually a new way of interacting. Everything has become more digital and, at the same time, more physical. That is not a contradiction, quite the opposite. We believe the stationary retail sector, which has been pronounced dead a thousand times, will experience a significant boost, at least among retailers who take issues such as experience and service seriously.” Premium, Seek, The Ground: 6th to 9th of July 2022, www. premiumexhibitions.com
Own – Off with Nature
CERTIFIED, SUSTAINABLE, AND SEASONLESS
Manuel Ritz
FASHION FOR SMILING PEOPLE Sustainability has become an important topic at Manuel Ritz, too. Will there be another eco-capsule for spring/summer 2023? Diletta Paoloni, Brand Coordinator and Board Member of Manifattura Paoloni: We already introduced an eco-capsule as part of the last summer collection, i.e. items that are made exclusively of recycled or certified organic cotton and feature reclaimed buttons, threads, and labels. We have scaled up the use of such eco-friendly materials for the coming season. So, we no longer offer just one capsule, but several sustainable product groups. In general, what can we expect from Manuel Ritz for the spring/ summer 2023 season? We wish to continue to establish ourselves as a brand for smiling people, for people who love a modern and fresh lifestyle. For spring/summer 2023 we present a new formal concept, for both men and women, blending sartorial and streetwear elements by means of special colours and carefully selected fabrics. Blazers and trousers are made of technical materials. Outdoor clothing items, such as heat-sealed shells and multi-pocket waistcoats, have been redesigned around our sartorial street look. Colour remains the key element of both brand identity and collections: the palette is very diverse and contemporary.
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Diletta Paoloni acts as brand coordinator and board member at Manifattura Paoloni, the parent company of Manuel Ritz.
What are your plans for the coming season in the DACH region? Germany, Austria, and Switzerland are significant markets for us. Our distribution strategy rests on two pillars. On the one hand, we continue to consolidate our relationship with the brand’s key accounts. On the other hand, we are forging new partnerships with exclusive retailers, such as department stores and selected specialists, and working on opening new instore corners. In the future, we plan to launch flagship stores, such as the one we have just opened in Prague.
OWN – Off with Nature represents sustainable and certified fashion for men and women. Founded in 2017 by Marilena Alberti, the label has always been passionate and resolute about its philosophy that fashion collections should be affordable for all while being fairly manufactured. The belief in a more responsible future is the fundamental motivation of OWN. The label maintains an open dialogue with customers of all generations about the ethical and environmental challenges of society. OWN decided to break away from the concept of seasonality as a counterpoint to the take, make, waste culture. Each piece of clothing can be worn cross-seasonally, saying no to trends and yes to quality materials, fine Italian design, and improving the social and environmental balance within the fashion industry. OWN exclusively uses organic or recycled raw materials for its basics and sources cotton from certified supply chains. The following are but a few seals the brand boasts: GOTS®, OEKO-TEX® Standard 100, OCS, GRS®, PETA, Animal Free Fashion, and FSC®. Besides Italy and Spain, the sales strategy focuses on Germany from the 2022 summer season onwards – the sales partner is Agentur Prins-Juric. www.offwithnature.com
Colourful, young, sustainable, and fair: the basic collection for women and men by Italian brand OWN – Off with Nature.
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Tom Ripley
Dondup
MODERN NOSTALGIA The name Tom Ripley triggers memories of an ideal world, and the collection, with its typical Italian Way of Americano style, conveys a certain nostalgia. Why do we enjoy daydreaming so much, Mr Müller? Wolfgang Müller, founder and Managing Director of Tom Ripley: Trends and technologies are perpetually changing at a rapid pace. In such volatile times, it is not surprising that people remember days gone by, which they perceive as more tranquil and associate with positive memories. We are convinced that nostalgic attributes will remain in demand in 2023, as the feeling of familiarity and security they trigger is a countertrend to an ever faster and more digital reality. Retro vibes without looking back, so to speak? Correct. Tom Ripley transposes nostalgic wow effects into the present in high-quality collections. The styles can be combined as an all-over retro look, or as a statement piece to an otherwise modern outfit. Do these golden times also evoke a different awareness of clothing? A time when the environmental impact of clothing was not an issue, as people bought high-quality clothing and wore what they had for a long time? Carefully planned design featuring contemporary functionality and a focus on longevity in quality and styling constitute practised sustainability. We rely on styles that are easy to combine, manufactured to a high standard, remain relevant for more than one season, and are manufactured fairly in medium-sized, Italian family businesses, in line with the principles of slow fashion. Tom Ripley styles are predominantly made of natural materials. Artificial fibres are only used if they optimise the properties of natural fibres or if they serve the durability of the piece. All functional product advantages are achieved through material-specific characteristics of yarns or through special spinning and knitting processes – not through chemicals. Are you looking forward to your first appearance at the Premium in Berlin? Yes, very much so. Due to pandemic-related restrictions, we have so far only presented Tom Ripley to a limited audience. Following the premiere in Berlin, orders can be placed as usual in the showrooms and online via our own portal for retailers.
Retailers appreciate how Tom Ripley hones its product expertise in knitwear, shirts, polos, and jerseys. “35 pieces at reasonable prices combined with high-end, durable ‘Made in Italy’ quality,” sums up founder and managing director Wolfgang Müller.
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“DENIM IS WHAT WE DO BEST”
On course for success with the Italian brand: Dondup CEO Matteo Anchisi.
Dondup is developing magnificently. What is the secret to this success? Matteo Anchisi, CEO of Dondup: Denim, the true DNA of the brand, remains a key cornerstone of Dondup’s collections and is offered in unique washes, variations, and fits. Will “Made in Italy” denim make a big comeback – also in terms of fashion? Many of the most influential players in the fashion business have decided to focus on denim, and we want to seize this opportunity to show what we do best: denim. What are the key propositions of the Dondup spring/summer 2023 collection? The theme for the upcoming spring/summer collection is inspired by Mexican lifestyle, comprising bright colours and pristine landscapes. Colour blocks in yellow, blue, pink, and fuchsia add vibrancy to the collection. Transparencies, cuts, designs, and cut-outs deliver a sexy and feminine look. Would you like to share any upcoming innovations or news from the company with us and our readers? We are currently working on some new projects, which we intend to present in the next few months. Stay tuned!
American Vintage
SELF-DISCOVERY American Vintage has succeeded in creating a brand core that is consistent and bursting with character, as well as a recognisable design identity within a simple collection – something that other brands can merely dream of. Even without a visible logo, everyone knows immediately that this piece must be by American Vintage. This asset has not only earned the brand numerous long-standing retail partners, but also many end customers who are true American Vintage fans and continue to add new favourite pieces by the label to their wardrobes. The brand from Marseille now celebrates all these aspects in a campaign that accurately reflects its spirit, both in terms of cast and locations. A trendy take on everyday life: the soft light of southern France is paired with the casualness of fashion – a unique blend brought to life by American Vintage. The shoot focuses on the simple things, the staples that everyone needs and loves. The Back to Basic campaign celebrates the white t-shirt for him and her in all its modern variations: a slightly oversized cut, a wide neckband with overcut shoulders, a cool ribbed structure with the typical American Vintage submarine neckline, batwing sleeves, and even print motifs. For men, shirts featuring a patch breast pocket, button tape, or a small stand-up collar complete the picture. Made of Supima cotton, organic cotton, or viscose, American Vintage t-shirts have always provided exceptional wearability. The campaign also celebrates American Vintage’s expertise in jeans. This is where the
Back to Basic represents American Vintage’s celebration of classics, making the simple white t-shirt the star of the campaign.
brand impresses with trend-setting models. Carrot-cut stonewashed styles, mom jeans, wide-leg designs, or jeans with a distinctive elasticated waistband - an increasing number of American Vintage styles feature a recycled cotton content. Striking washes and special colourways are as much part of the typical American Vintage look as a complete lack of visible labelling. After all, you can always spot an American Vintage wearer, right?
www.purschoen.com
PREMIUM Berlin · 07.07. - 09.07.22 · Halle 18 · Stand H18-A 29
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White Sand
Arena is active in more than 100 countries and is the market leader in swimwear.
TRAVEL ADVENTURES The SS23 menswear collection by White Sand is inspired by travel and adventure. The personal enrichment that everyone experiences while discovering distant and mysterious places is the main motif. White Sand skilfully blends sartorial and streetwear, merging the two worlds. Alongside trousers, special attention is paid to Bermuda shorts, the summer garment par excellence. The brand also offers jogging pants and work trousers. A capsule collection features models in Japanese style: unconventional aesthetics and cool details, for example extra-large balloon pockets. White Sand displays a variety of high-quality combinations in terms of materials: from twisted, stretch, or woven cottons to different blends such as all-season nylon/cotton, hemp/cotton, lyocell/linen, and yarn-dyed linen. Add to that denim, plush, wool, and ultra-light nylon yarns. The colour palette is in keeping with the brand’s style: from milky white and cream to shades of beige, brown, military green, ochre, orange, blue-white, and black. A collection for urban life, vacations, and for adventure and travel!
Arena invited guests to Sardinia to celebrate its 50th anniversary.
Arena
50 YEARS OF SWIMWEAR To what extent has Arena changed in 50 years? Peter Graschi, CEO Arena: The brand has evolved analogue to swimming as a sport. Equipment, training wear, and beachwear have been added to competition swimwear over the years. Beachwear will be a key area for us in the future. How challenging is it to be sustainable? As of our spring/summer 2023 collection, all swimwear styles will be made of recycled fabrics. This advancement is an important and significant change for Arena. We are also increasing the proportion of recycled fabrics in sportswear from 60 percent this year to 73 percent next year – in beachwear from 30 to 85 percent. What does Arena do better than other swimwear brands? We develop our products in collaboration with the best swimmers in the world. The technology and insights are incorporated. We offer the best fit and comfort because 50 years of experience in materials and movement in the water are reflected in our products. In addition, we can emotionalise the brand in a unique way through swimming competitions.
Travelling has returned at last: not least as inspiration for White Sand’s spring collection 2023.
Cruna
CRUNA GOES SARDINIA
The first Cruna shop in San Pantaleo on the Costa Smeralda in Sardinia. It does not get more exclusive than this.
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The Vicenza-based fashion label opened its first mono-brand store in San Pantaleo on the Costa Smeralda at the end of May 2022. Why Sardinia? This is where most Cruna wearers enjoy their holidays. The store is located in the historic centre of the resort town, which puts it right on the shopping path of national and international tourists who love high-end Italian products. Cruna represents a new generation of menswear brands from Italy, committed to “Made in Italy” throughout. Innovative designs are created in collaboration with artigiani using traditional techniques, transferring the classic Italian look into the present. The store design compliments this by combining natural materials such as wood and rope with neutral tones. The opening in Sardinia represents a continuation of the retail strategy pursued by the two young entrepreneurs Alessandro Fasolo and Tommaso Pinotti. It combines a presence in 250 multi-brand stores worldwide, 180 of which are in Italy, with its own stores in high-profile locations. The brand’s retail partners include well-known names such as The Optimist in Los Angeles, Spiga 3 in Sweden, and Wicky Boutique in Switzerland. Department stores such as Lodenfrey, Printemps, and Rinascente are also fans of Cruna’s “Made in Italy” collections. www.cruna.com
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Body’Tec
“THERE IS NO WAY AROUND HEMP” Mr Behrentin, you consider hemp to be a game changer, even for fashion. Why? Dieter Behrentin, founder of Body’Tec: Hemp is sustainable, sweat-absorbent, and gentle on the skin. Cultivation does not require pesticides and crops can be harvested up to three times a year. Until now, the legal framework and its stigma have stood in the way of hemp, as did the difficult production process and its lack of softness. That has changed for the better. That is why you launched Body’Tec, a hemp-textile symposium that took place in April at the Fibo sports trade show in Cologne. Interest in our premiere was substantial. The sports textile sector in particular is a promising market. We strive to establish collaborations with producers, brands, and universities for the next symposium in April 2023. Can hemp replace cotton? Hemp will never replace cotton completely, but it will be a viable alternative. I believe the industry will realise there is no way around hemp. www.behrentin.com
Dieter Behrentin believes hemp will be a viable alternative to cotton.
One of the symbolic images of Arturo Delle Donne‘s short film: the poetic fusion of fashion (here by Etro) with the nature of the Dolomites.
Gucci is and remains one of the cornerstones of the Kraler fashion empire - worn here by Alexander Kraler.
Franz Kraler
HOLLYWOOD CALLING
Deha
IN FLOW The Deha activewear collection backed by Italy’s Meeting Group actually has its roots in dance sports. Today, Deha transfers its years of experience in the field of sports and activewear to a feminine collection manufactured exclusively in Italy. Be it a yoga class, a workout, or a cool street style that combines leisure and fashion, Deha is an excellent choice given its wide range of colours and designs. The brand’s eco-wear segment is expanding steadily with palazzo pants, dresses, and shirts that can be worn in everyday life. Sustainability is an important factor. The company has devised a strategy to minimise the environmental impact of its production. Piece dyeing and washing, a Deha speciality, prevent the clothes from shrinking or losing their shape. www.deha.it
The Kraler fashion family from South Tyrol have recently started producing fashion films. Their first self-produced short film entitled Call to the Wild, written and directed by Arturo Delle Donne, celebrated first successes in late 2021: among 800 submissions and 75 nominations, the film won the Best Director award at the UK Fashion Film Festival and was also nominated for Best Screenplay and Best Cinematography. Shortly thereafter, in late March 2022, the film was even nominated at the Los Angeles Italia Film Festival. So, what is the secret of success? The answer, of course, involves imagery, colours, and fashion. Style and unspoiled nature are key elements of the short film, produced and distributed by West 46th Films, shot in the Dolomites. In the wild of Italy, four protagonists from different ethnic backgrounds stray between wolves and nocturnal animals to find themselves and ultimately be reborn with a new consciousness and in a new skin, their clothes. The concepts of collection, brand, and fashion is thus reinterpreted and elevated to a higher level.
NEW LEADERSHIP
Roots in dance sports, sustainable production, and unique colours: Deha.
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A change of ownership is followed by new management. With X-Bionic and X-Socks, X-Technology has established cult brands in the field of performance sportswear over the past decades. New CEO Maximilian Lenk, who brings his own management team on board, now intends to expand this market position globally. Simultaneously, the sales structure is being realigned. “As a team, we share the enthusiasm for this extraordinary company, its powerful brands, and its market potential,” says Lenk. Communication is handled by the Think Inc agency.
A change of ownership is followed by new management: X-Technology is facing the future with a new management team, headed by CEO Maximilian Lenk.
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Thinking about tomorrow today is Goldgarn Denim’s motto. Now the brand has launched a capsule collection with artist Jens Richter.
Inch Studio
JERSEY EXPERTS FROM VICENZA When it comes to jersey and lightweight fabrics, there is no escaping Vicenza-based Inch Studio. The 16-strong team, led by young entrepreneur couple Massimo Gregori and Virginia Busoni, ensures that all stages of a collection – from research to development, from patternmaking (be it manual or CAD) and prototyping to the production of finished and ironed samples – are seamless from scratch to finish. Inch Studio boasts more than 20 years of experience in managing special projects and large collections. For special finishes such as intricate printing and laser etching, hand and machine embroidery, or custom dyeing techniques, Inch Studio maintains a network of exclusively regional suppliers capable of meeting even the most demanding requirements. Massimo and Virginia’s studio benefits from a particularly diverse team, comprising a mix of employees with more than 30 years of experience and lateral entrants who bring both the necessary expertise and new ideas to the table. In terms of sustainability, Inch Studio launched the Inchsustain project to create local awareness for environmental issues. Among other initiatives, the campaign visits community schools to explain how fashion is recycled, advocates for stricter supply chain monitoring, and invests in research and testing of new sustainable materials. Inch Studio currently serves such notable accounts as Emilio Pucci, Moncler Genius, Ports 1961, Alyx, and High.
Goldgarn Denim
FROM MANNHEIM INTO THE WORLD Thinking about tomorrow today is what German premium brand Goldgarn Denim subscribes to. “The future begins in the present; we are aware of that. We have to proactively shape the quality of life of future generations today,” says Kerem Özcelik, founder of Goldgarn Denim. The entrepreneur not only relies on a sustainable value chain and artisanal production methods, but also on active participation. With Jens Richter from Mannheim, the brand is now treading a new path. The artist designed exclusive graphics for Goldgarn Denim t-shirts. These are sold as a capsule collection through existing distribution channels and partnerships. For every shirt sold, Goldgarn Denim donates 5 euros to the organisation WIR Water Is Right. www.goldgarncharity.de
Massimo Gregori and Virginia Busoni are an excellent team, both professionally and privately.
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Next generation: Tobias Schellenberger introduces a unisex capsule collection titled ROSSI by Raffaello Rossi.
Rossi by Raffaello Rossi
UNISEX CAPSULE “The zeitgeist demands gender-neutral fashion. We have reached a cultural turning point. Society is finally ready to accept new shapes,” says Tobias Schellenberger of premium trouser specialist Raffaello Rossi. He was instrumental in developing the unisex capsule collection featuring seven trouser styles. The look and feel are extremely contemporary and cosmopolitan. The ROSSI by Raffaello Rossi capsule is aligned to the young target group of Gen Z and Y. As a member of the Better Cotton Initiative, the label manufactures in Europe. The colours range from black, navy, off-white, beige, denim, and olive to trendy reed shades. Retail prices span from 189 to 269 euros. “I am thrilled that we won Julian Daynov as creative adviser for this project. His work as a trend scout means he is at the cutting edge of fashion, which helped us a great deal with the development of the collection and the visual language,” explains Schellenberger. The selectively marketed capsule collection celebrates its world premiere at Premium in Berlin and can then be viewed in Raffaello Rossi’s Düsseldorf showroom, as well as at Supreme in Munich and at Modeagentur Renate Fuchs in Zurich. www.raffaello-rossi.com
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The Blauer Tactical capsule taps into a new segment for Blauer USA.
Just Around The Corner
THE INDEPENDENT SHOW The appetite for trade shows is back! Just Around The Corner in Manchester (2nd and 3rd of August 2022) and at London’s Truman Brewery in the East End (7th to 9th of August 2022) currently offers the most exciting portfolio in the UK. More than 2,000 buyers tested the capacity of the trade show’s last edition – resulting in a larger venue for this year’s edition in Manchester, and even more space in London. A mix of exhibitors from the fields of street, denim, and premium fashion is definitely worth the trip. www.justaroundthecorner.co.uk 2nd and 3rd of August 2022 Manchester, 7th to 9th of August 2022 London
Blauer USA
TOP SEGMENT FORAY Blauer USA is famed for its fashionable jackets offering top value for money, as well as a corresponding affinity to trends. “In our opinion, the brand is enjoying its finest moment in 20 years. It has found itself and is entering spring/summer 2023 with minimal price increases,” says Florian Ranft of sales agency Komet und Helden. A capsule that is fun to wear:
Blauer USA Tactical, on the other hand, opens up a new level of quality and design for the brand. “It reflects Enzo Fusco’s history as one of the masterminds behind Italy’s now iconic sports and outerwear brands,” argues Ranft. The entire capsule is piece-dyed and relies on experimental materials. A compact 30 pieces small, Blauer Tactical is a complete look that appeals to many retailers due to its high degree of innovation. www.blauerusa.com
INTERNAL
TIME TO SAY GOOD-BYE - AND HELLO AGAIN!
Fancy a trip to Manchester, the former textile capital of the UK, or to London’s hip East End? The independent trade show Just Around The Corner is the perfect excuse.
Manfred Reitenbach, print supervisor style in progress.
Our long-standing print supervisor, Manfred Reitenbach of Sandler Druck, retired at the beginning of June. He has accompanied every style in progress issue since 2010 with incredible commitment and pleasant reliability. We would like to take this opportunity to express our heartfelt gratitude. We wish Manfred all the best for this new chapter in his life. And we are delighted that he loves style in progress and our team so much that he has agreed to stay on board. This means we can still rely on his support for coming editions.
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Baldessarini
LET’S GET MARRIED The collection playfully translates the vibes of New Hollywood and the lifestyle of the 1960s and 1970s into the present by means of a new masculine identity. This also applies to the White Capsule, Baldessarini’s first wedding line. Its premiere was celebrated exclusively at Romeo’s Motel & Diner on Ibiza on the 31st of May – in attendance were influencers, press representatives, customers, and clients. The capsule offers a casual blend of two dinner jackets, six three-piece waistcoat suits, and four two-piece suits in different colours, complemented by fashionable shirts. The quality criteria are evident in comfort, intrinsic value, and the exceptional Baldessarini DNA. The look is defined by pure linen and fine blended fabrics, for example a luxurious wool-silk-linen mix in light colours. Casual coolness is conveyed by a black-tie style in the form of a dinner jacket variant with blazer and matching belt and oversized gallon trousers. The high stretch content of the suit materials makes them comfortable to wear; the same applies to the matching shirts. One example is an elegant fine twill shirt made of 100 percent cotton or 100 percent linen sourced from Italy, featuring a shark collar and optional turn-up cuff in ivory.
Cool spirit: the first wedding collection by Baldessarini.
An iconic Baldessarini style is a shirt made of pure organic silk with a resort collar, a plain twill model in ivory or with a subtle pinstripe pattern in ivory and cognac. Stand-up collar shirts, finely striped, featuring a restrained floral motif or daisy hole embroidery, complement the collection, as do accessories such as pocket squares with tonal decorative quilting in linen and silk alongside silk bow ties with matching cummerbunds in ivory. The first Baldessarini White Capsule can be ordered until the end of August, with a first delivery date in December 2023.
The spring/summer 2023 collection was presented at the Pitti Uomo in Florence under the motto Baldessarini Golf Club. It was the first analogue Baldessarini fashion show under the stewardship of Managing Director Florian Wortmann, featuring a carefully curated model cast, including It-Boy James Turlington and well-known German hip-hop DJ Ray-D, and 150 invited guests. Retail presence is also being expanded. For the autumn/winter 2022 season, Baldessarini will be represented with pop-up spaces at 15 retail stores in the DACH region, including Baldessarini Furniture.
Munich Fabric Start
NEW ONE-STOP SOLUTION
The Source is the new prime manufacturing solutions area.
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Alongside its established segments, Munich Fabric Start’s holistic portfolio gains a new domain this season in the form of The Source. “Sustainability, transparency, digitalisation, nearshoring – the pressing issues in the fashion industry cannot be tackled individually in one value-creating step, but they must be implemented in a contemporary and vertically integrated manner. This is precisely what we offer with The Source in our new Hall 8: a platform for reliable and flexible sourcing solutions, as well as reimagined value chains,” explains Managing Director Sebastian Klinder. The new space for international manufacturing provides a platform for all-in-one suppliers to present end-to-end solutions in a business-oriented atmosphere. 30th of August to 1st of September 2022 www.munichfabricstart.com
ALPENHERZ ANGIE MILLER ANNO DOMINI DESIGN COCOVERO DADDY’S DAUGHTERS DIE ROCKMACHERIN DIRNDL&BUA FARM UM’S HERZ GEORG MAIER 1954 GLÜCKLICH GOTTSEIDANK GRASEGGER GRENZGANG HEIMATGLÜCK JOSEF KEPKA & SÖHNE HUTMANUFAKTUR JOSEF&ANNA KLEIDERMANUFAKTUR HABSBURG LEMBERT HUTFABRIK LENA HOSCHEK LODENFREY 1842 LOTTA LEBEN LOTTO LOVE LUIS TRENKER ME°RCHEN ME°DCHEN MEINDL BEKLEIDUNG MÜNCHENER LODENFABRIK MY HERZALLERLIEBST OSTWALD LEATHER MANUFACTORY
SALT 01 19–20.07 2022
PLOOM RESI HAMMERER SPORTALM STAJAN KUNST & MODE
SALT 02 26–28.08 2022
VON & ZU WALLMANN WILDSTELLE …
www.salt-salzburg.at
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Niù
HELLO BALI Total look collections by Italian label Niù always share new stories featuring women from all around the globe. The design team has been travelling to remote destinations season after season for over 20 years, drawing inspiration for prints, cuts, colours, and textures from locals and their traditions. Absolute signature pieces are, as per usual, the elaborate skirts, manufactured in Italy with great attention to detail. This collection revolves around the term Suksma, which describes the balance of different elements and the harmony that exists between nature, humanity, and spirituality. The destination is, as you may have guessed, Bali. This blissful island of terraced rice paddies, tropical forests, and volcanoes is a place where everything demands respect. The spring/summer 2023 collection focuses on the fragile and mystical beauty, the spiritual essence of Bali, reflecting life surrounded by temples and rice farms. The golden costumes of Balinese dancers and the batik fabrics of artisan workshops are transferred to precious silks, transparent linens, three-dimensional jacquards, and beautifully light voiles. The colours of the sunset reflected in the water inspire prints in shades of amethyst and topaz, delicate wave patterns, and small lurex accents or fluorescent details. Good News Agency in Munich is the sales representative for Germany. Austria is covered by Agentur Texco in Salzburg, while Switzerland is handled by Modeagentur Loft 261 in Zurich. The collection is not available via large online retailers, but exclusively sold through specialist retailers. Key accounts include Brand Bazar in Paris, Boutique Ogoni in Cannes, B54 in Bilbao, Jofré in Barcelona, and Chucu-chu in Madrid, as well as Dantendorfer in Vienna, Bailly Diehl in Frankfurt, and Unützer in Munich. www.niu-fashion.it
Fashion Day Online has been available for streaming since the 8th of June. Photo: Sunnei
AW2223 ©MartinVeit
Niù’s current collection is inspired by the colours of Balinese flower and spice stalls.
DMI
SLOW DOWN OR SPEED UP? Fashion Day Online, presenting DMI’s trend forecasts for autumn/winter 2023/2024, has been available for streaming since the 8th of June. The question “Should we slow down or speed up?” kickstarts a debate on sustainable fashion. “So far, the spotlight has been shone on sustainable quality, with companies replacing cotton with organic cotton and virgin polyester with synthetic fibres made of recycled PET bottles, but such strategies will not carry fashion manufacturers through the second wave of the sustainability debate,” explains trend analyst Carl Tillessen. “A large majority of modern consumers no longer trust sustainability promises or seals, but opt to buy durable clothing they can wear for a long time. They have realised that buying less is the only real contribution to sustainability.” www.deutschesmodeinstitut.de
A clear brand message, European manufacturing partners, and plenty of sustainability: Silk Sisters.
Silk Sisters
SUSTAINABILITY TAKES EFFECT “We can sense that our efforts to achieve end-to-end sustainability at Silk Sisters are now taking full effect. On the one hand from within, as we never rest on our laurels and are always on the lookout for even better solutions. On the other hand, we are stimulated externally by the fact by an increasing number of suppliers and significant progress. It is now much easier to abandon such things as poly bags due to new eco-friendly alternatives,” says designer Mel Nienaber. “We observe major developments in fabric production as well. Especially in Portugal, where we manufacture, we encounter great openness to improving every single production step.” Consistent sustainability offers an additional advantage: “Price increases caused by more sustainable manufacturing processes are easier to justify. At Silk Sisters, price hikes are generally limited and justifiable. We remain realistically priced. But, of course, our networks are coming under pressure too, and we notice that the many returnees from Asia, who are now literally bombarding the European production sites with orders, are driving up the price. However, we maintain a large network of producers, so we can react promptly.” In general, Mel Nienaber is very satisfied with the development of Silk Sisters. “Our collection is tailor-made for stores that enjoy success due to their fantastic commitment, for example on social media. These retailers are thriving, and it makes us proud to collaborate so closely with many of them.” www.silk-sisters.de
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ROSHAN@ROSH.STUDIO WhatsApp +49 151 54753686 www.rosh.studio PREMIUM BERLIN - 07 till 09 . 07 . ‘22 - HALLE 11 - STANDNR. H11-C 12 FASHN ROOMS - 21 till 25 . 07 . ‘22 - STAND A24 - ALTE SCHMIEDEHALLE SUPREME MÜNCHEN - 06 till 08 . 08 . ‘22 - HALLE 5 - STANDNR. A510 SHOES DÜSSELDORF - 28 till 30 . 08. ‘22 - KALTSTAHLHALLE - STANDNR. B03
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Trusted Handwork
LESS IS MORE
Trusted Handwork offers a womenswear collection as of summer 2023.
Marc, you have been marketing Trusted Handwork for some time now and the last few seasons were very successful. What is Trusted Handwork’s secret? Marc Kofler, CEO of Adventure Fashion Agency: Trusted Handwork is a high-quality product that impresses with unique materials that have been specially developed for the label, as well as a perfect and comfortable fit. The simple basics are made of 100 percent organic cotton, but they offer a special something – you can feel it at first touch. The tactile experience is extraordinary! Feedback from retailers confirms that the brand, due to its less is more look and quality level, is followed closely by repeat customers. Due to the timelessness of the cuts and the classic colour variations, the pieces are never discounted and can now be found in the most prestigious stores in Germany: Braun, Breuninger, Lodenfrey, and Schnitzler… to name but a few. Trusted Handwork is committed to sustainability. How difficult is it to produce a fair t-shirt today? Trusted Handwork has found a very reliable partner in Compass Tex. The company specialises in sustainable manufacturing and guarantees that currently 78 percent of its products are already manufactured sustainably. This percentage is on the rise, too. Trusted Handwork is passionate about reducing the consumption of energy, water, and all other resources, as well as avoiding waste, recycling as much as possible, and disposing of any waste properly. The brand boasts the following certifications: GOTS, SA 8000, and Organic 100 Standard. So, what is the next step? Following the great success of the menswear collection, the brand offers a womenswear collection as of next season. It is available ex-stock from June and will feature exactly the same hallmarks: highest quality made of 100% cotton, sustainable production, and perfect fit.
Brandboxx
PLENTY OF NEWS Brandboxx Salzburg, Austria’s largest trade fair and order centre, continues to invest at all levels. “The construction of the solar array on the roof of Brandboxx has begun, and we are also planning to redesign the entrance structure of our event and exhibition centre,” says Markus Oberhamberger, Managing Director of Brandboxx. Exchange with the various industries that maintain showrooms at Brandboxx or attend as exhibitors is paramount. “We react flexibly to demand, particularly in terms of dates and new platforms. For example, we have created a June event for the sports industry called Outdoor Salzburg, which we are convinced holds great potential. Our main advantage is that we always offer an exciting portfolio combining fixed tenants and exhibitors on the floor.” An exciting time awaits the Trachten segment, which takes centre stage at the HOT1-Tracht & Mode Order Start (19th to 20th of July 2022) and the Trachten Order Days (26th to 28th of August 2022). “At the August event, we plan to announce an important step on our journey to provide a new home for the Trachten sector. The industry should be excited,” says Trade Show Director Katharina Krassnitzer. Brandboxx will be hosting a whole funfair for the industry get-together on the first evening of the trade fair. The industry can warm up for the much-anticipated comeback of the Oktoberfest with bumper cars, shooting galleries, and candyfloss. Almost 150 Trachten brands are present at Brandboxx during the event, making it the largest meeting place for this particular segment. “It is important to us to show the whole range of the Trachten sector – from commercial suppliers to high-class brands, as well as all the accompanying essentials such as jewellery, accessories, hats, bags, and umbrellas,” says Krassnitzer. www.brandboxx.at
Carnival feeling at the evening get-together of the Trachten Order Days in Salzburg from the 26th to 28th of August 2022.
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The majority of exhibitors at Supreme Women & Men in Düsseldorf and Munich manufacture in Europe.
The Supreme Group
NEW SALES PARTNER IN ITALY Nicolò Costanzo of Italy Fair Service in Milan is the new representative of The Supreme Group in Italy, filling the gap left by long-standing sales partner Andrea Jericho. In its positioning, Supreme emphasises the fact that the majority of its exhibitors’ collections are manufactured in Europe. “Sustainability manifests itself in many different ways. Going forward, we wish to present information about the manufacturing of collections even more transparently, as ‘Made in Europe’ makes a considerable contribution to resource conservation. The origin of goods plays a major role in the decision-making process of consumers, and numerous tracking apps already make it possible to track individual items. We are thrilled by this development,” explains Aline MüllerSchade, CEO of Munichfashion Company. Supreme Women & Men, Düsseldorf: 22nd to 25th of July 2022; Supreme Women & Men, Munich: 6th to 9th of August 2022 www.thesupremegroup.de
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With the international trade fairs Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone, Sebastian Klinder and the Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions team offer a competent portfolio.
Munich Fabric Start
“NEARSHORING MADE EASY” In his capacity as managing director of Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone, he is intimately aware of the current turmoil throughout the global supply chain. Does this make a visit to the trade fair in Munich even more worthwhile? Sebastian Klinder provides the answer in this interview. Many manufacturers and brands are currently experiencing real nightmares in terms of supply chains: price increases, stricter advance payment policies, delivery failures, and delays. Many are using trade fairs to actively seek out alternatives. Is this an additional incentive for exhibitors to come to Munich? Definitely! In addition to these challenges, other pressing issues in the fashion industry – sustainability, transparency, digitalisation, nearshoring – cannot be tackled individually in one value-creating step, but they must be implemented in a contemporary and vertically integrated manner. This is precisely why we are adding a new destination for prime manufacturing solutions to our comprehensive portfolio this season: The Source. Our new Hall 8 offers a unique platform for reliable and flexible sourcing solutions, as well as reimagined value chains. It has, in fact, been confirmed that such a space is urgently needed. All available slots for The Source have already been booked by a high-quality selection of suppliers.
Some market participants see nearshoring as the answer to global supply chain difficulties. This suits your exhibitors, does it not? Both our exhibiting brands and visitors are very international, whereby a high-quality presence from EU countries is evident due to our location in the centre of Europe. The entire industry benefits from the proximity and overlap of The Source, Munich Fabric Start, and Bluezone. After all, short distances and synchronicity ensure an overview across the entire portfolio, and material procurement can be combined directly with the allocation of production orders. In short: nearshoring made easy. The EU has outlined that circularity needs to become an increasingly important criterion in our market. How are your exhibitors preparing for it? Circularity, transparency, and social working conditions are definitely of the utmost relevance! This is evident from the fact that we are attracting a growing number of increasingly high-quality and forward-looking materials for our ReSource area. Our sourcing platform for environmentally friendly and responsibly produced textiles, clothing, and accessories currently features a total of 580 sustainable materials from our exhibitors, which can be explored and ordered online at any time and of course also live on site.
Munich Fabric Start: 30. August bis 1. Sept. 2022 www.munichfabricstart.com Bluezone: 30. bis 31. August 2022 www.bluezone.show
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DÜSSELDORFER FASHION DAYS 20. – 27.07.2022 Raffaello Rossi Showroom Kaiserswerther Strasse 183 A DE-40474 Düsseldorf
Weitere Termine und Agenturen finden Sie hier:
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SocialVersity
“THIS IS HOW THE PROFESSION REGAINS APPEAL”
The new Frauenzimmer in Fuschl has a real feel-good factor.
Frauenzimmer Fuschl
COMMITMENT TO THE FUTURE Frauenzimmer in Abtenau has long since established itself as a popular meeting place for fans of tracht and fashion, a fashion store with a personal connection to its customers and a feel-good atmosphere. In April, Silke Schafleitner and her mother Anneliese Reiter took the next step and opened a second, eponymous store in Fuschl; located directly in Hotel Ebner’s Waldhof on idyllic Lake Fuschl. “We love what we do and aim to evolve,” says Silke Schafleitner. Both boutiques are all about tracht, for example by brands such as Lena Hoschek, Meindl, and Sara Roka. A casual and fashionable twist is provided by Citizens of Humanity jeans, as well as womenswear by Susanne Bommer and Nine in the Morning. The interior of Frauenzimmer Fuschl reflects the strong bond with nature within the overall concept, featuring fine deerskin walls, realised by Markus Meindl and his company, and the abundant use of iron for shelves and tables. Colourful carpets provide splashes of colour and cosiness, as Frauenzimmer Fuschl is also intended to be a pleasant space for personal encounters. The next big change for the store in Abtenau is due in July, when the 300-square-metre ground floor is converted into retail space. “We have already furnished rooms for guests on the second floor, turning Frauenzimmer Abtenau into a real fashion hotel,” Silke Schafleitner beams. www.frauenzimmer.co.at
Silke Schafleitner (left) and her mother Anneliese Reiter have conceptualised their two stores as places for personal exchange.
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In cooperation with an experience exchange group led by bs-tools owners Stefan Messler and Rolf Weber, seven fashion retailers across Germany have jump-started SocialVersity. Retail employees are trained to become social media managers for fashion in a 55-hour online course. “A second course, which is aimed at sales floor employees and is intended to train them to become influencers for their employer, will follow later,” explains Oliver Janz, professor at the Baden-Wuerttemberg Cooperative State University in Heilbronn. The already launched course is geared towards marketing staff. Co-initiator Günter Nowodworski insists: “It is essential that social media is not merely used to entertain existing customers, but that new customer strategies are also initiated via online channels.” Retailers such as Pier 14, Stulz, Modehaus Jung, the Gieck Group, and Schönenberger are among the first to provide their employees with this perfectly tailored training for the fashion industry. Janz is convinced: “If we recharge job descriptions in fashion retail with young, modern, and contemporary ideas, the profession will regain appeal.” The Social Media Manager for Fashion course is location-independent, based on online learning, and costs 849 euros per participant. It is possible to join at any time. www.socialversity.de
For the retail marketing managers of tomorrow: Social Media Manager for Fashion, an online learning course initiated by an experience exchange group led by bs-tools owners Stefan Messler and Rolf Weber.
Vicario Cinque
A NEW HOME Stefano Lorna, founder and owner of sustainable womenswear brand Vicario Cinque, had a vision two years ago: to renovate the run-down Villa Piovene, located in the hills of Berici above Vicenza, and turn it into the new headquarters for his own brand and established sales agency Stefano Lorna. “Breathing new life into Villa Piovene, giving it a future, and trying to realise its full potential almost 200 years after it was built, was both a matter close to my heart and a real challenge.” Completed in 2021, the villa blends fashion, architecture, design, and sustainable thinking. The 18th century building houses showrooms, meeting rooms, and offices, as well as a small theatre and a private dining room for special guests.
Villa Piovene-Lorna: the perfect blend of art, culture, and innovation.
ORDERTERMINE 2. Halbjahr 2022
19. - 20.07.2022
HOT 1 - Tracht & Mode Order Start
31.07. - 02.08.22
Fashion Premiere
31.07. - 02.08.22
Dessous & Bademoden Salon
31.07. - 01.08.22
JOT Juniormode
16. - 18.08.2022
Schuh Austria
26. - 28.08.2022
TRACHTEN Order Tage
11. - 12.09.2022
Shoes & Bags Salzburg
09. - 10.10.2022
KIDS Austria
TRACHTEN ORDER TAGE 26. - 28. August 2022
HOT 1 TRACHT & MODE ORDER START 19. - 20. Juli 2022
Veranstalter: Brandboxx Salzburg GmbH | Moosfeldstraße 1 | 5101 Bergheim | salzburg@brandboxx.at | +43(0)662/4687-0 | www.brandboxx.at
THE LONGVIEW
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THE LONGVIEW
Natalia Modenova and Daria Shapovalova, DRESSX
“The Future of Every Industry, Including Fashion, Is an Intersection With Technology” After Natalia Modenova and Daria Shapovalova had made a name for themselves in Ukraine’s fashion industry, they followed a vision that seems dramatically different: merging fashion and technology. Their Los Angeles-based company DRESSX provides clothes that can only be worn in a digital space, and they partner with brands for anything from NFT drops to starting digital collections to marketing campaigns in the virtual world. During our lively chat on Zoom, virtual jewellery swings from Natalia’s ears, and a deep dive into Natalia’s and Daria’s minds reveals that conquering unfamiliar territory like the Metaverse may not be such a strange and new endeavour for the fashion world, after all. They even demonstrate how virtual fashion grows out of the same necessities that drive an essential transformation in physical retail. Natalia Modenova and Daria Shapovalova founded virtual fashion company DRESSX in August 2020. Their goal: merging fashion and technology.
Interview: Stephan Huber, Text: Petrina Engelke, Photos: DRESSX
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THE LONGVIEW
atalia and Daria, you founded DRESSX before the big bang arrival of the Metaverse that is the talk of the town right now, and even before the quantum leap caused by the pandemic. What was your vision when you first started? Daria Shapovalova: We had spent 15 years in the fashion industry, and among other cool projects, we established the fashion week in Ukraine that became the largest one in Eastern Europe. But then we realised that society demands a new way of how we shop. It was evident for us that retail will never be the same again. So we decided to create a company that will merge fashion and tech. That was always our ambition. And in the middle of the pandemic, it was perfect timing. We are based in Los Angeles, where all the stores were closed. So we wanted to provide people with an opportunity to shop without leaving their homes, and even to wear items without leaving their homes, too. Evidently, that all needed be done digitally. How does the digital world connect to fashion in your view? Daria: We have this amazing new realm of augmented reality and digital clothing. Our specific idea came to us through a number of iterations. We did a great deal of research, and we already knew plenty about the augmented reality space. That is how DRESSX was born in August 2020. From the very beginning, one of the most important reasons why we started this company was recognising the problem of overconsumption in fashion. Many items can be consumed in a digital space instead, and they can coexist with our physical wardrobes. We do not want to conquer fashion completely and say no to all physical clothes. We continue to wear them, to support designers, and to love them. But now it is time to split our wardrobes into two realms, the digital and the physical. And yes, we started that long before the Metaverse conversation. When you work in fashion, you start getting a sense for many things, and we felt that change is needed. So we jumped on it really early. Kyiv has an exceptionally vibrant and interdisciplinary art, fashion, and tech scene. Was this an ideal environment for you to recognise the dawn of the fashion Metaverse and develop such a concrete vision and business as DRESSX? Daria: We started building DRESSX while living in the US, but undoubtedly our more than 15 years of experience in building the industry in Ukraine has influenced our vision for the digital future of fashion. Ukraine is a country of freedom and creativity, home to unique artists and the most progressive creators. As we all got to learn these days, Ukraine is one of the bravest nations in the world. Its people are demonstrating unbelievable perseverance, devotedness, and belief in their values and dreams. Originally coming from Ukraine, we took this mindset and boldly introduced DRESSX as the first digital-only fashion retailer in 2020, when almost nobody knew what digital fashion was. And look where we are now, less than 2 years later. Leading the industry’s rapid shift to the digital future and opening up new business opportunities in the Metaverse. What is your personal relationship with physical fashion, and do you agree that the future of fashion will be hybrid?
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Natalia Modenova: Yes, of course. Look at the high pace of growth happening in the fashion industry. There is overproduction and overconsumption. There are all these environmental problems, all this waste. But fashion at its core needs to surprise you every day, every new season. So, you have to create something new all the time. And with our fast information cycles, people want something new faster and faster, and you cannot sustain that with physical production. A lot of this consumption should move into the digital space, but of course we will not stop our physical lives. We still keep wearing physical clothing. And I really like the intersection between physical and digital clothing, because you can style them together. That opens up both a new level of creativity and a market opportunity. Of course they will coexist, they just need to learn how to do that. So I would say that digital fashion is not a revolution. It is the evolution of fashion. Do you personally have a tech background? Daria: No, neither Natalia nor I have a tech background. We did organise the Fashion Tech Summit in Ukraine, but that is more of a marketing event. But we have a third founding team member who was in tech for ten years before joining DRESSX. She worked at Looksery, a start-up that was sold to Snap for 150 million US dollars, and then she became director of Snap Ukraine. So she was a good addition to our team. So your background really is in fashion. Do you define DRESSX as a fashion company or as a tech company? Natalia: It is a fashion tech company, so, it is both. In the future, will fashion be merging with data and tech while still also leaning on design as a relevant element? And will physical fashion also play a role? Natalia: The future of every industry, including the fashion industry, is an intersection with technology. We envisioned that when we were still working with traditional fashion business models, and we wanted to switch and show that the future really lies in tech. Right now, a lot of people in the tech industry are trying to put a label on us, not in a bad way, but they are trying to categorise us as, for example, an AR company or a blockchain company. But really, we are a fashion tech company, because we utilise different technologies in order to bring the vision of the future of fashion to life, which is, of course, a future in tandem with tech. For many people in the fashion industry, spending money on something to “wear” in a digital space seems like a weird idea. Is this a generational problem, something that will be totally embraced by Gen Z, like punk rock by the youth of the 1970s? Natalia: I do not think it is the generation, it is more a question of lifestyle. After all, for 20 years, or even longer, gamers have been very familiar with the concept of buying, selling, and valuing digital-only goods without any representation in physical life. It just so happens that technologies, virtual worlds, and online communication are more of a native environment for the younger generation. We are building a product for the future of fashion, and
“It is time to split our wardrobes into two realms, the digital and the physical.”
THE LONGVIEW
While virtual fashion can mirror the clothes you wear in real life, it can also be designed with “impossible” elements like fire or water. Natalia Modenova and Daria Shapovalova point out that this opens up opportunities for both the creative side of fashion and the business side.
“Claiming their space in the Metaverse will mean the same for retailers now as it did when the e-commerce revolution was happening. There was space for a lot of brands and companies, but it also required these companies to change their processes and their values.”
the future of fashion, well, is in the future. Today’s youth will be the older generation one day, and then using this will be native for everyone. Right. When I look at my kids, for example, what our industry now excitedly calls Metaverse is nothing new to them because of their daily gaming experience. Has the Metaverse existed all along, and Facebook just slapped a name on it? Natalia: Well, the concept of a Metaverse has existed for a while, but the Metaverse itself still does not exist. I would say it is still shaping itself. Fashion is a very important part of the Metaverse, same as fashion being a very important part of our physical existence, because it is everyone’s visual representation, your visual identity. And in online worlds, identity is even more important than in the physical world, because this space does not have as many dimensions as physical life. What do you think the Metaverse will or could be in the near future? Daria: I think the Metaverse is also a new and interesting marketing world. There are AAA games, there is virtual reality and all such things, and it is amazing that they now 108
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all coexist in this vision of the Metaverse. In my view, it will continue to develop, and virtual reality glasses will play a big role in this. But there will not be an adoption on the scale of all of us using them on a daily basis. So, you could say there is a gap in regard to our timing. However, we also see social media as a part of a pre-Metaverse, because that is exactly where you show up on a daily basis by posting your photos and videos on Instagram, TikTok, Snapchat, or wherever. So for us, the Metaverse is all your representation online, whether it is yourself or your avatar. And the vision for DRESSX is that we can dress you in all of these realms. As you can see, Natalia is wearing DRESSX right now. Yeah, that was a very cool surprise. Daria: (laughs) Absolutely, I can imagine. In regard to gaming, we just launched our collab with Roblox. And I am sure the notion of the Metaverse will continue to change, but overall I think that we will spend more and more time online. So the big aim for DRESSX is to become your digital wardrobe that you can use in various online outlets, whether it is a video call, a social media post, or a gaming environment. That is how I would define the Metaverse. And the way it accelerated during the pandemic was significant. We were always told that everything we adopted during the pandemic, all those habits, will stay. And now look, we are having this interview online. There used to be so many interviews offline back in the day. Now, I cannot remember that we did any offline interview in the past two years. That is also a good example for making my job easier. So, do you think an interview like this will be conducted by our digital twins in the near future?
THE LONGVIEW
Fashion will be just as important in the Metaverse as it is in the real world to convey one’s personality, believe DRESSX founders Natalia Modenova and Daria Shapovalova.
Natalia: Let me answer this from a fashion perspective. Of course, digital twins of physical clothing items will be there, they already exist. But there will also be a whole new category of digital fashion that cannot exist in real life. For example, we did a project with Buffalo London and The Fabricant involving shoes made of fire. Today we are launching American Eagle jeans with water drop elements which cannot exist in real life either. That unlocks a whole new level of creativity and business opportunity for creators, companies, and individuals, featuring a whole new level of self-expression. I believe this is the most exciting and important part. For sure, the concept of digital twins of your real clothes is easier to grasp. That may be a transitional element. The same applies to our avatars. Maybe someone will try to create something very realistic that looks like a person. But someone else would have green hair and purple skin. It just gives you more options. Give us a little insight into your business model. You are collaborating with corporations, designers, and brands. Are you also thinking of building your own collections? Daria: We do both. We started as a platform, but then we started to develop the DRESSX brand. And that is exactly what happens in the rest of the fashion world, just look at Net-a-Porter or Farfetch. Designing collections makes sense because we have plenty of insight into what is actually well-received in the digital world. So, we release two to four collections per month. Everything you see on DRESSX with the DRESSX name is designed by our internal team. Let us talk about the value of NFTs for a fashion business. A year ago, almost nobody in our industry really knew what that was, but now there is much talk about what it means to be able to own a digital garment. Is this a game changer? Natalia: Of course. There are different ways to distribute digital fashion to the consumer. The two main channels are on-chain channels and off-chain channels. Using an off-chain channel is easier, because it is based on the habits that internet users already have. Mobile apps, for example. 110
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“People want something new faster and faster, and you cannot sustain that with physical production. A lot of this consumption should move into the digital space.”
A lot of people know how to use those as well as their mobile phone camera. So, it is easy for them to understand how you open the app, you see the outfit, you select it, and you can augment it on yourself or on someone else. A lot of people also know how to create an account with their email and then create a password. And they know how to do online payments by credit card. Everyone is paying with a credit card all the time now, even though that was such a revolution a long time ago. All that is now part of the off-chain channel. The distribution on-chain happens differently. It requires you to have a crypto wallet, because this asset will be delivered to you. You store it, own it, and control it completely. This involves more responsibility for the user, more steps that they need to take. But while off-chain items cannot be resold, on-chain items like NFTs can. It is a different way of distribution. And I think it is important to have both, to show what is possible. Then, people just choose what is most comfortable for them. Do you think that what you call the off-chain channel will become the equivalent of fast fashion in virtual fashion, because it is easy to consume, while the other channel, based on NFTs and blockchain… Natalia: …will be luxury, the secondary market with collectable elements to it. Absolutely! Are you planning to deliver both ways? Natalia: Yes, we are, because we understand that on-chain still has issues with scalability on a global level. It will take time to optimise all the protocols to enable on-chain mass
THE LONGVIEW
Mark Zuckerberg and Mark Zuckerberg’s Digital Twin... with DressX.
Still a distinction. DressX on a Vogue cover for the first time.
Singer-songwriter Rose Villain in DressX on Instagram.
market transactions. This technology is relatively young, and it will take a lot of resources to scale it, including energy resources. Until it becomes sustainable, we will definitely continue to pursue both of these ways. I think environmental issues are a very important part of this discussion. On the one hand, virtual fashion opens up a possibility to overcome the biggest problems of physical fashion, which are overproduction, overconsumption, and the resulting waste. I mean, every year I think about 30 percent of the production is directly redirected to landfills. On the other hand, virtual fashion is linked to the massive energy use involving blockchain technology and NFTs, creating the next environmental problem. Do you think this is solvable? Natalia: I believe it is, yes. Because as mentioned, this technology is still developing, and every new protocol is more energy efficient than the previous one. In the history of fashion, fast fashion once also was a solution, and the idea was considered great initially. It was meant to make fashion more accessible. Then it went into an unhealthy direction nobody had thought of. I find it amazing that even at the start of this evolution and adoption of blockchain technology, people understand that it can also be a problem. And a lot of smart people are working on solving this issue. The majority of my readers are high-end retailers all over Europe. Do you think there is a place for them in the Metaverse? Natalia: Yeah, there is space for them. But it will mean the same for them now as it did when the e-commerce revolution was happening. There was space for a lot of brands and companies, but it also required these companies to change their processes and values. The situation is quite 112
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“In online worlds, identity is even more important than in the physical world, because this space does not have as many dimensions as physical life.”
similar right now. I believe there is a space for everyone who embraces new ways of running their business, which should be more sustainable on many levels anyways. I have worked in the fashion industry for about 30 years now, and what is happening now is the biggest transformation I have ever witnessed. Today, everything is much more consumer-centric than it used to be. Ultimately, business comes down to really understanding consumer needs and consumer behaviour. What do you see as a new consumer demand or desire? Daria: When we started this, it was evident that consumers had a desire to shop differently, to express themselves differently. And we knew that big fashion retailers had already encountered problems when their clients started buying clothes, using them for content like posting pictures on Instagram, and then returning their orders. This is not the kind of behaviour these fashion companies wanted them to show. If you use the item, they want you to pay for it. (laughs) While that creates an opportunity for a fashion rental business, we wanted to think of something on top of that. Our belief in digital assets came from that, and it is driven by consumer demand, because what a company is doing should meet consumer demand. Otherwise, it will never work.
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CHARACTERFUL CASHMERE Notshy is as distinctive and bold as its female developers: Natacha Basic (Art Director) and Mercédéh Vafaï (Sales Director) are the brains behind the collection. The essence of Notshy: feminine designs, casual and vibrant, complemented by extravagant style elements. The philosophy is perfectly embodied by brand ambassadors such as actress Pénélope Cruz, supermodel Claudia Schiffer, and Scandinavian influencer Pernille Teisbaek. They all explore their femininity and shape it into their mantra. The creative Notshy duo shares a love for fashion and is deeply fascinated by exquisite cashmere. More than 900 points of sale worldwide adore the successful balance struck between cashmere classics and fashion pieces. The Faustine poncho in particular has become the centerpiece of Notshy collections – and a must-have for all fashionistas. It rises above fashion trends due to its timeless elegance and sophistication, enchanting in different collar variations and colour shades, as well as with playful features such as hoods and oversized looks.
NOT SHY
The name says it all: Notshy by Natacha Basic and Mercédéh Vafaï promotes empowerment.
• By women for women: Notshy • Two seasonal collections plus NOS programme • Perfect balance: fashionable cashmere and classics
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Pure innov Jet Set: perfe ation and ct to th ion down e sm a deta llest il.
Responsibility as an integral part of brand identity: the jersey and knitwear are GOTS-certified.
LUXURY REDEFINED
Thomas Jaeger, who has been CEO of Jet Set for about a year now, seems almost euphoric while reviewing the past order season: “Our vision of uncompromisingly embracing what Jet Set is – while still opening up the brand to new, urban, and younger target groups – has been met with a sensational response.” This is reflected in numbers, namely a doubling of turnover. What is, however, even more important to Crispin Spindler is how many preferred retailers are convinced of this approach at international level. “From Braun in Hamburg to Brown’s in London,” is how the sales director sums up the successful brand repositioning, not without mentioning the motivating feedback from partners such as MyTheresa, KaDeWe, and Breuninger. Jet Set strives to continue redefining luxury with its current collection for spring/ summer 2023, establishing itself as the peak of active lifestyle all year round – beyond seasonal pigeonholes – by simply being Jet Set in its purest form. This approach translates into athleisure, beachwear, and urban sports, driven by an irrepressible desire for innovation and perfection down to the smallest detail. It goes without saying that colours and prints are key, and stars are a recurring theme throughout. The compact, refined Dip Dye range is by no means the only highlight. The brand also rigorously pursues a clear responsibility agenda. Jersey and knitwear are GOTS-certified, and recycling plays an increasingly important role in fabrics. 90 percent genuine "Made in Italy" constitutes a clear statement, too. In response to popular demand, Milan, Düsseldorf, and Munich will be joined this summer by a pop-up showroom in London.
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For men, the style theme revolves around modern college looks.
ATHLETIC HINTS OF LUXURY continues to focus on athletic luxury apparel in its prespring collection for 2023. Pink and green provide fresh colour accents for the ladies, alongside sophisticated cream, grey, and beige. The modal line is complemented by further sporty styles such as the Better Rich poncho. For the first time, this range also includes pieces with an abstract all-over print. In the knitwear segment, the label based in Bocholt, Westphalia, presents classic jumpers, a knee-length cardigan, a poncho without sleeves, and a buttoned cardigan with a collar and half sleeves with knitted cuffs as highlights of the season. A long-sleeve piece featuring a Sporting Club print and a New York address conveys trendy college style. Nicki fabric is used in athletic styles and exudes a particularly sophisticated vibe. For men, the colours green, dark blue, and light blue dominate in spring 2023. This season, all the signs point to college style. A college print appears on t-shirts, trousers, shorts, and hoodies, as well as a tonal, soft flock print on sweats. A new college sweat jacket completes the look.
BETTER RICH
Continuation: the modal-ware range is supplemented in spring 2023 by further sporty styles such as the Better Rich poncho. The brand also debuts pieces with abstract all-over prints in this series.
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SANDALS, SANDALS, SANDALS -
NO ONE CAN IGNORE THEM NEXT SEASON.
COLORS OF CALIFORNIA For Colors of California, there is never just one trend or fashion, but always endless possibilities. Everyone is different and should discover and pursue their own style – individuality is the name of the game. The shoes by the Italian brand are therefore not for conformists, but for free spirits who embrace the Californian way of life in its purest sense. The upcoming spring/summer collection remains colourful, young, fresh, and inspires a desire for travel, adventure with friends, nature, and fun. The selection is vast, but the highlights certainly include the open-toed models: from classic to fancy, made of rubber or raffia, with a platform or flat, with lots of glitter, crochet, or terrycloth. This proves once again that sandals are a must-have! The range features comfy models, as well as ones with low heels or double straps, even pool slides. They are a passe-partout for every occasion: at home, on the beach, on holiday with the family, or even at informal business occasions. Sandals are all the rage.
NOT FOR CONFORMISTS
Colo Calif rs of epito ornia ha s m venti ised unc onal onfashi footwea on si r n 1994 ce .
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DENIM AT ITS BEST Authentic washes are key for the Italian denim brand The Nim. “We conduct extensive fabric research, collaborate closely with existing partners, and subject our products to a great deal of testing,” says The Nim founder Claudio Parolini. “Our efforts are paying dividends, particularly as last summer season was unbelievably successful.” This is the foundation upon which the brand builds this season, with Italian know-how and American coolness – featuring an extraordinary variety of fits and silhouettes. This rings especially true for womenswear. Straight-leg, bootcut, and wide-leg models are standard, but skinny fits also remain in demand and are offered in many washes. “We are maintaining a high level,” says Niklas Rill, whose eponymous agency is responsible for sales in Germany and Austria. He is working closely with Parolini on the customer-oriented collection. The fact that retailer feedback is always analysed down to the last detail and incorporated into the collection is an additional success factor for The Nim, as is the brand’s ability to sustain core retail prices ranging from 179 to 229 euros.
THE NIM STANDARD
Authentic washes, in a variety of silhouettes, are standard.
n Italia and w o h ss know n coolne a c i r e Ame racteris cha Nim. The
“We analyse customer feedback closely and incorporate it into the next collection,” says Claudio Parolini, founder of The Nim.
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TWO COLLECTION THEMES COMBINE ACTIVITY AND LEISURE
Intelligent utility elements are part of the brand’s DNA.
BRING ON SPRING
Always on the move, always in flux: the pre-spring 2023 collection by Strellson focuses on symbiosis. Functional and formal, the two styles of the Swiss brand complement each other perfectly. The focus is on relaxed, clean silhouettes that deliberately provoke contrasts by mixing colours, patterns, and materials. The combination of the two collection themes All day active and Sicily is equally modern and authentic: functional and hidden details, as well as intelligent utility elements, lend the key pieces their very own look. Zipp pockets, Velcro fasteners, and cargo pockets transform the Strellson man into an urban performer, never short of a stash option for his car keys or mobile phone. Vertical and diamond quilting, functional two-layer fabrics, technical knits, and jerseys create modern ease and an exciting three-dimensionality across the surface. Cotton twills, cotton and linen blends, as well as wool, linen and viscose blends, add an innovative update to summer classics. This is also reflected in the choice of colours: beige, light grey, and black harmonise with strong yellow tones, green, or rose.
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MYTHS HAS BEEN MANUFACTURING TROUSERS “MADE IN ITALY” SINCE 2005.
n for Know ct fit: rfe its pe ths. My
SARTORIAL CASUAL
The trouser specialist from Reggio Emilia loves to experiment and presents collections that embody all the principles of Italian tailoring every single season: stylistic creativity, innovative materials, and ultimate know-how. It therefore comes as no surprise that the spring/summer 2023 collection caters to every taste, for example with a classic bestseller in the form of a frosted design made of piece-dyed cool wool. Manufactured using wool yarns from the houses of Marzotto and Vitale Barberis Canonico, combined with the attention to detail and high quality standards that make Myths trousers so special: the saddle seams and the tailored inner belt with a skirt, an openable tack seam in the waistband that allows the trousers to be worn casually at the waist in a 1950s look. Further collection highlights include styles made of functional, patented materials such as a blend of wool and Cordura® - breathable, durable, crease-resistant, and comfortable. The cotton lines surprise with models in soft-stretch gabardine made of cotton and lyocell or styles in cotton and linen blends. All cotton styles have one common denominator: the in tinto capo technique that lends each garment the unique vintage look that Myths is so renowned for. Last but not least, there is the Denym capsule (the Y is a reference to the brand name). The jeans are also available in a sustainable version, made of recycled materials or cotton and hemp fabrics.
MYTHS
The Italian trouser specialist focuses on cool styles and high-quality materials.
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WORKWEAR PERFORMANCE In summer, the Italian brand fuses workwear and military influences with sartorial cuts to create comfortable and contemporary casual wear. The collection is extremely versatile, featuring a variety of particularly lightweight materials such as washed nylon-cotton twill or linen-cotton blends. Womenswear highlights, such as a crystal grey rain poncho in oversized look or a wasabi green field jacket in matte finish with a short stand-up collar and double belt, exude subtle masculinity. Minimalism in its purest form defines the menswear collection: no unnecessary extras. Bonded jerseys in uni colours and twotone piece-dyed hybrid pieces for trans-seasonal use in spring, summer, and autumn feature corresponding shades such as army green, sand beige, night blue, and orange yam. Highlights including deck jackets, short parkas, and city blousons made of reinforced durable nylon cotton blend fabric underline the cross-season collection concept and are complemented, as always, by a selection of leather jackets.
BOMBOOGIE
Particularly light fabrics and blends.
HIGHLIGHTS: HYBRID PIECES THAT ARE NEVER OUT OF SEASON.
Workwear and military influences fuse with couture.
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Multi-functional and versatile in all weather conditions – all day, every day. Peuterey jackets are always ready to go.
Peuterey has been working with recycled materials for several seasons and offers timeless looks with low impact on the environment.
SUMMER ESSENTIALS
Windbreakers or even down in summer? Yes, definitely! The super-lightweight models by Peuterey are a must-have for breezy seaside evenings on the beach or when hiking in the Alps. For the spring/summer 2023 collection, the Italian label remains committed to its classics and bestsellers, such as women’s slim-fit down jackets with stand-up collars made of 100 percent recycled polyester fabric and lined with recycled down. The elasticity of the materials ensures exceptional comfort and the tailored fit flatters the wearer. The design is mostly simple, but details like insert pockets with hidden zips, asymmetrical double-slide zips, or oversize collars on quilted waistcoats spice up the models elegantly. Wind and rain jackets return in different lengths and colours, perfect for the sporty woman. Among men’s models, a biker jacket in iridescent nylon stands out. It has a slim-fit and is water-repellent thanks to the Teflon’s EcoElite treatment. And men get to enjoy the super-light down models made of recycled down too: practical, cool, and perfect for every occasion.
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THE TUSCAN PREMIUM CASUALWEAR BRAND RELIES HEAVILY ON DESIGN CONTINUITY AND QUALITY OPTIMISATION.
FASHION
“Sporty and modern, the SS23 collection impresses with many extras.” – Ulli Ehrlich
ALPINE FASHION SAFARI SPORTALM The Austrian brand focuses on athletic styles featuring a mix of animal prints. Leo or ocelot meet colour-block surfaces, while fabric combinations such as cotton and scuba jersey, as well as velour leather and techno-stretch, underline the new look. Combining colour and femininity, the brand skilfully breaks with style: eyelet embroidery, batik print, and a poncho embroidered with nylon. A firework of colours explodes in the Ulli Ehrlich line: astro-green and lilac, in combination with black, white, and metallic silver. Photo prints of meadows and flowers are digitally defamiliarized. Printed on flowing techno-stretch and net fabrics, they deliver a bold fashion statement. Mono-tone styles draw excitement from a mix of print techniques in matt/gloss. The newly developed silver wording print also appears on a wide elastic band, which lends the individual style its sporty look.
• Key features of the Ulli Ehrlich line: silver wording print and silicone-printed fabrics • Highlight fabrics such as all-over printed taffeta nylon, neoprene, and pearl-coated nylon in the outdoor segment • Golf meets fashion: sporty techniques such as tapes, headpress on scuba jersey, or tonal hotfix motifs make every piece special style in progress
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MADE IN THE MARCHE: DOUCAL’S MANUFACTURES 100 PERCENT IN ITALY
A SHOE LIKE A HUG(H) Ask a Doucal’s wearer what they love about their shoes, and you will hear many compliments about the exclusively Italian-made range. Above all, however, they will state that the shoes are buttery soft and highly flexible, ensuring a superb wearing experience. This also applies to a new stand-out model: Hugh. Freedom of movement, lightness, speed, and colour – the new model is inspired by the skate culture of the 1970s. The name was derived from American photographer Hugh Holland. His photo book titled “Locals Only: California Skateboarding 19751978” paints an intimate portrait of the golden years of skate culture and its protagonists. Like no other, he documents the emergence of a subculture born in a time of drought in California, when empty swimming pools and dry canals became perfect locations for young people to experiment with their skateboards, which were nothing more than pieces of wood on wheels, all handcrafted and unique in colour and shape. This spirit of those early years inspired Doucal’s to create the Hugh unisex sneaker, which combines the classic codes of “Made in Italy” glamour with innovation. It features an ultra-light rubber sole and a super-soft, lined suede upper that is available in a variety of shades from Californian ocean blue to taupe, from hazelnut to the summer season’s brightest colours like tangerine, yellow, and light green.
DOUCAL’S
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• A memory foam midsole is one of the brand’s many secrets • Popular employer: Doucal’s combines craftsmanship and high-tech
FASHION
• Extra thin fabrics for sartorial shirts • Inspired by Out of Africa and The English Patient • A style expedition through Italy
The designers of Italian menswear specialist Bob have been inspired by Robert Redford and Ralph Fiennes in cult films such as Out of Africa and The English Patient for the new collection. Colours range from khaki and safari tones to rusty brown, light green, and pure white. Materials include robust fabrics with a gritty feel, reminiscent of linen shirts and coarse natural cottons from North Africa, and extra fine and thin fabrics of sartorial shirts typically worn on particularly hot summer days in the heart of Rome, Naples, or Palermo. Cuts of British military uniforms from the colonial era are softened with floral camouflage interpretations or patterns of Moroccan Berber carpets. The collection is complemented by Hawaiian all-over prints that reflect the 1970s flower power road trip feeling, from the colourful houses in the rocky towns of Cinque Terre along the vibrant flower and lemon gardens of the Amalfi Coast to the cliffs of Sicily.
BOB
MEDITERRANEAN EXPEDITION style in progress
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A NEW FORM OF GLAMOUR
Subtle, relaxed, and always a touch retro – the new St. Ann collection is characterised by effortless looks that feel natural and unpretentious. The styles ease wearers into a new sense of fashion confidence with an explosion of colour, expressive prints, and delicate, flowing qualities. Wearable high fashion looks suited to every day and every occasion. Sustainable fabrics and ingredients are becoming increasingly prevalent, such as Eco Vero viscose, Fillsens Tencel, Ökotex-certified materials, and stone nut buttons. Soft green nuances, blue tones, and bursts of colour in bold orange or pop pink – the Colourful line features everything from finely worked prints to artistic graffiti and bold kaleidoscope prints. Alongside HighTec cotton and HighTec bi-stretch, flowing viscose jersey is among the key fabrics. The design approach of the Casual Luxe line is feminine, sophisticated, and absolutely refined. Loose fits in linen jersey and fluid pants in flowing viscose come in subtle colours of sandy and chalky neutrals or white. Bonded knit fabrics featuring matt or gentle shiny effects and a sporty fancy rib-knit jersey prove a new level of sophistication. Luxurious statements are also conveyed by prints, patterns, and designs such as the oversized zebra print, macro borders, irregular stripes, zigzag graphics, herringbone, or an exotic leaf print. Light viscose and Tencel are employed in the wideleg pants of the Resort Ready line. This quality impresses with its soft feel, washed finish, and extremely pleasant wearing comfort. Sixties allover prints in vibrant shades, sweet candy prints in pop pastels, and colourful horizontal stripes take you from the beach straight to the terrace for a sundowner.
ST. ANN
• Prints are making luxurious statements • Wearable high fashion looks for daily life
RELAXED SUMMER FEELING: VOLUMINOUS SHAPES WITH A FASHIONABLE EASE DEFINE THE TROUSER SILHOUETTES. 126
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AMBITIOUS COSINESS
Passion, honest creativity, and emotion: Schneiders womenswear for the 2023 spring/summer season is defined by a new vibrancy. The guiding principle is comfort, incorporating new, high-end qualities with optimal wearing properties. The cuts and handcrafted natural materials support these high standards, as does the classic-modern style of the New Country Luxury collection. Sustainability benefits from considerable innovation. A new range has been created around Recycled Techno with upcycled Silk Pad, featuring reversible and hoody jackets made of recycled outer fabric with a recycled silk filling – breathable, sustainable, and comfortable. For the outdoor segment, the fully decomposable material Biodegradable was further developed and used in lightweight jackets, overshirts, and an unlined coat. Patterned jerseys, a linen silk blend, and soft flannels are applied to blouse-like jackets and jogging pants, underlining the luxurious character of the collection once again. Cool Techno Jersey feels as light as a feather. The collection’s colour scheme reflects the brand’s affinity with nature: refined neutrals and warm spice colours symbolise a new elegance. Vivid bright shades like coral and azure blue create striking effects. The ultimate fashion statement is a magenta-coloured coat made of Lana Cotta.
SCHNEIDERS
WHAT ARE THE BRAND’S VALUES? QUALITY, HIGH-END WORKMANSHIP, AND NATURAL MATERIALS.
Perc throu eptible gho colle ction ut the : a sp e light ness cial .
A product with soul and roots: Schneiders of Salzburg offers an urban collection promising luxurious comfort. style in progress
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THE ORIGINAL
The scarves and shawls by Purschoen, made of felted cashmere, are wonderfully soft, light as a feather, and sustainable. Only purest cashmere wool in its original organic form is used – free of admixtures, certified in accordance with the high standards of the Aid by Trade Foundation and with the GCS seal. “It is very important to us that the environment is protected, animals live in safe surroundings, and working conditions meet social standards,” says Alexander Frieborg, who has been involved in fair trade in Nepal for 45 years and developed the high-quality product in 2016 together with local artists he has befriended. Sophisticated knitting techniques are a prerequisite for the light, transparent structure. The remaining production process is carried out with the same care: the fluffy look of the cosy scarves is created by hand in several gentle washing and felting processes. The style is timeless and universal, not least because the scarves complement any outfit. The collection features no less than 90 colours, complemented this season by bold shades such as bright green. Printed scarves deliver a genuine fashion statement. At mark-ups between 2.7 and 2.8, retail prices range from 229 to 269 euros. Purschoen has two long-standing, passionate sales partners for its aficionado product. Silvano Rose covers southern Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, while Helmut Hermsmeyer handles central and northern Germany. Shipping is managed by parent company Himalaya under the supervision of Bimala Windisch and Felix Frieborg.
PURSCHOEN
Breezy, light, and luxurious: Purschoen’s cashmere scarves are washed several times and carefully felted by hand in a manufactory in Nepal.
The collection is available in 90 colours and is complemented by scarves with fashionable prints.
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“The scarves have successfully positioned themselves on the market due to their uniqueness.” – Bimala Windisch, Sales Manager
FASHION
• Save the Duck was the first fashion brand in Italy to be B-Corp certified • Swimwear for the whole family • The Pro-Tech line in collaboration with Satoshi Yamane returns
SMARTLEISURE
100 percent animal-free is the core promise of Save the Duck. In its spring/summer collection, the B-Corp company proves that it is possible to surprise and stay true to one’s identity simultaneously. Hybrid, versatile styles take into account that weather conditions are particularly divergent in summer. From scorching heat to cold rain, Save the Duck’s powerful colours and functions come to the rescue. New variations of the famous logo add variety: sometimes it appears subtly in tonein-tone, sometimes only as an orange beak, as on the pockets of men’s swim trunks. Speaking of which, a beachwear line for the whole family,
SAVE THE DUCK
manufactured in accordance with the same high social and ecological standards, now complements the brand’s range. The material used is a four-way stretch made of recycled PET bottles. The percentage of recycled and recyclable materials is increasing steadily. Oversized models, jackets with all-over prints, and denim looks send a clear signal to fashion customers. The lifestyle collection called Smartleisure, which was added to the brand’s spectrum in 2021, features hybrid jackets made of ultra-thin, breathable fabrics, complemented by matching trousers and tops. Last but not least, the Pro-Tech collection, a collaboration with Satoshi Yamane, returns. His minimalist design language inspires purists who are not willing to forego functionality.
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WANT IT Here to stay: excellent ideas paired with excellent concepts; that is the success formula of start-ups in fashion. They are more than just beautiful, impress with a sense of purpose, and always have the planet in mind.
THIS FILLS THE VACUUM! Annie Paris.
“The brand embodies perfection in coats and outdoor clothing,” says Anna-Zoi Rybinski of Agentur Meier & Rybinski. “The colours are sensational, and the collection fills a vacuum in premium retail with purchase prices around 129 euros.” Annie Paris was launched in Italy in 2006 by Anna Deredita and Piero Lacaebonara. Trademarks include material mixes and unconventional cuts for coats, jackets, and down jackets made of cashmere, cashmere-wool mix, and high-tech materials. Agentur Meier & Rybinski started distribution in Germany in March 2022 and counts Linea Donna Osnabrück, Millis Dortmund, Hillers Eckernförde, and Harenberg Münster among its first customers. Stationary retailers really appreciate that Annie Paris is not available online. Itria Moda Srl, Martina Franca TA/Italy, commerciale@annieparis.it, www.annieparis.it
LAUNCH OF APPAREL Premiata.
Known for its premium footwear, Premiata is launching an apparel line for the autumn/winter 2022/23 season. The inaugural capsule collection by the footwear label founded in 1991 by Graziano Mazza focuses on outdoor styles such as parkas, puffer jackets, and field jackets. The new range is an experimental field for Vincenzo Mazza, the founder’s son and Marangoni graduate, who has been responsible for the brand’s design strategy since 2017. The unisex collection is manufactured in partnership with La Rocca. CEO Graziano Mazza intends to establish Premiata as a 360° brand in the long term. For 2023, the apparel collection is to be underpinned by a price base. Alexander Pospisil’s agency has acquired clients such as Horstmann+Sander, Oskar M, Muroni, and Modehaus Stratmann. Premiata, Milan/Italy, showroom@premiata.it, www.premiata.it
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RICE, RICE, BABY! Rice.
The Spanish brand turns rice waste into sneakers. Founded in 2012, the footwear label reinvents Spanish craftsmanship by combining tradition and innovation. It utilises sustainable materials such as vegan corn and apple leather, as well as organic cotton and other recycled fabrics. The latest model is the pictured “Open21”, available in three colourways at a retail price of 140 euros. The rice grain structure is visible on the outsole. All components are manufactured in the EU in accordance with highest environmental and social standards. Distribution agencies in Germany include Fashion Artists, Seasons, and Haven Agency. ThokkThokk GmbH & Co. KG, info@thericeco.com, www.thericeco.com
WANT IN
CAR TYRES ON THE MOVE Kira.
What does one need in Estonia? Quality shoes that can handle everything – from a hike to a city walk. That is exactly what Sirli and Henry Ratasepp have developed. The unique aspect of this sustainable brand is that nothing is new; all materials are created in an upcycling process. Car tyres are recycled for the soles, the insoles are crafted from PET bottles, and the uppers are made of recycled plastic and scraps of waterproof shoes. Besides hiking boots, the brand offers sneakers, t-shirts, and jumpers, with more models in the pipeline. The brand pursues a D2C approach, but it is also available on platforms such as Avocado Store. Kira, Tartu/Estonia, henry@kirashoes.com, www.kirashoes.com
EVERY THREAD COUNTS
The Leftover Company. More than ten years of manufacturing experience involving
SO NICOLE
the finest cashmere combined with a sustainable mindset: no wonder it makes their heart bleed when yarn remnants go to waste. The Leftover Company gives cashmere leftovers a new life under the motto “every thread counts”. Colour-sorted or darkly dyed scraps are transformed into stylish beanies. The brand is backed by the makers of Warm-Me, who are thus taking the next step on their consistent path towards sustainability. The Leftover Company, theresa@leftovercompany.com, www.leftovercompany.com
Nimo with Love. Not many are aware that
Nicole Mohrmann, a retailer from Munich, has maintained her own collection for ten years. “We initially designed the collection exclusively for the US,” says Mohrmann. Manufactured in GOTS-certified factories in India using organic cotton, the kaftans, dresses, skirts, blouses, and accessories boast colour, prints, and embroidery. The label focuses solely on summer collections. “It is always summer somewhere,” smiles Mohrmann. “It is important to me that the price/performance ratio remains realistic.” Retail prices for blouses and dresses range from 119 to 179 and 229 to 279 euros respectively. Sales in Germany are handled by Anke Jellinghaus in Bavaria and Prins-Juric in the rest of the country, while Elisa Gaito is in charge of sales in Italy. Nimo with Love, Munich/Germany, info@nimowithlove.com, www.nimowithlove.com
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GOOD BLING Eliza Weiss.
ETERNAL SUMMER Caftanii Firenze.
Twin sisters Ginevra and Ludovica Fagioli have always considered the resort look a must-have for summer: airy, colourful, chic, and made for endless summers on the Mediterranean. The idea for their own label came about in 2018, when the two realised that dresses featuring special cuts and high-quality workmanship were increasingly hard to find. “Today, our models are in demand worldwide, especially in the Middle East,” say the founders. The signature caftan was (and remains) the focus of their creative work, now complemented by maxi dresses, skirts, blouses, bikinis, and accessories. Summer can come – and stay! Caftanii Srl, Florence/Italy, ludovica@caftanii.it, www.caftanii.it
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Recycled silver and gold, semi-precious stones, lace, and diamonds: German jewellery brand Eliza Weiss has been building a devoted following since 2011. The style is poetic, minimalist, yet still eye-catching. “My creations accompany people throughout their lives. They may eventually become nostalgic keepsakes that are kept in a chest as cherished treasures and passed on,” says the designer. Customers like Bo Redley in Solln or Nicole Mohrmann in Munich have recognised this potential and include the collection in their product ranges. Mentions in Vogue, Bunte, and InStyle add to the desirability of the collection. Eliza Weiss, Unterhaching/Germany, e.weiss@elizaweiss.com, www.elizaweiss.com
CUSTOM MADE LINGERIE Chitè Milano.
Which woman does not dream of beautiful, perfectly fitting underwear? Young designers Federica Tiranti and Chiara Marcon have made this their mission and create lingerie that fits perfectly and combines values such as innovative design, sustainability, and individual production. They describe their brand as a lingerie revolution: customers measure their body proportions at home, enter them on the website, and then choose material and colour. Orders are manufactured in small tailoring workshops near Milan, and the custom-made lingerie set is delivered within two weeks. Chitè Milano also offers equally exciting ready-to-wear lingerie. Chitè Milano, Milano/Italy, help@chite-lingerie.it, www.chite-lingerie.com
white-sand.it @whitesandofficial
WANT IT
FULL VOLUME Sunnei.
Founded in 2015 with a studio and store in Milan’s Via Vincenzo Vela, the label is no longer just an insider tip for a fashion community that is well-connected via social media. In Germany, the label is, among others, distributed via the online shop Cultizm. Starting out as a menswear-only label, Sunnei’s collection now also includes womenswear, although many looks are gender-neutral. Alongside ready-to-wear and its own shoes, Sunnei has also launched a jewellery collection with rubberised earrings – in their own way no less voluminous than the apparel collection. Sunnei, Milan/Italy, sales@sunnei.it, www.sunnei.it
ALWAYS SUMMER SOMEWHERE Arrels Barcelona.
UPCYCLING AHOY! 8beaufort
. Upcycling represents the most sustainable use of materials. The Hamburg-based brand manufactures sneakers, beach sandals, bags, and backpacks from discarded sails or waste from “Secumar” life jackets with small and medium-sized Portuguese family businesses. This reduces energy and raw material consumption. “We combine upcycling with natural materials such as natural rubber, waxed cotton, and chrome-free tanned leather with the aim of putting minimum strain on our planet and its inhabitants,” explains founder Sabine Moormann. Retail prices for the three sneaker models for men and women in numerous colour variations amount to 149, 169, and 189 euros. Fashion Evolution GmbH, Hamburg/Germany, kontakt@8bft.hamburg, www.8beaufort.hamburg
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The printed swim trunks for men are not only stylish, but they also reflect an artistic approach. “Each print is created by an artist or illustrator and tells a story,” says Niklas Rill, the Spanish brand’s new sales representative for Austria and Germany. The swimwear is made of recycled polyester, as brand founder Javier Llaudet is fully committed to sustainability. At a mark-up of 2.7, the retail price for the trunks comes to 140 euros, one euro of which is donated to ocean preservation association Surf Rider Foundation Europe. Arrels Barcelona, which is exclusively distributed, is already featured at Selfridges, Soho, and Luisa Via Roma. In Germany, retail partners include leading stores such as Lodenfrey, Mytheresa, and Apropos. Arrels Creations S.L., Barcelona/Spain, info@arrelsbarcelona.com, www.arrelsbarcelona.com
WANT IT
ALL IT TAKES
Ayen. Fittingly, the brand name is an acronym of “all you ever need”. The Mu-
nich collection elevates the capsule wardrobe concept to perfection: timeless, high-quality staples in harmonious colours, manufactured entirely of sustainable materials in line with stringent social and environmental standards. After a successful B2C launch, opening its own store in Munich, and collaborating with retailers such as Breuninger, the brand has decided to strategically expand B2B sales in partnership with Marion and Timothy Hoferer of MODEist. The trade show premiere is at the Premium in Berlin, after which the non-seasonal collection can be viewed in the agency’s showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich. The collections are always strictly limited; Ayen favours quality over quantity. Ayen, Munich/Germany, sales@ayen-label.com, www.ayen-label.com
COVETED FOOTWEAR Suicoke.
STRAW HEAD Catarzi.
One of the oldest hat manufacturers in Italy knows how to work magic with precious natural materials such as raffia, straw, and Japanese paper. The range includes hats, caps, and matching bags refined with leather – handcrafted in Florence and sold at astonishingly fair retail prices between 60 and 200 euros. The brand’s home accessories are ideal for concept stores. MODEist started marketing the label in its showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich in late June. Catarzi Firenze, Signa/Italy, info@filippocatarzi.com, www.catarzi1910.it
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The Japanese sandal label aims to raise its profile on the German market. To this end, General Director Enrico Pasi hired Studio Pezzetta in 2021. The Munich-based sales agency is to position Suicoke selectively in the luxury segment. Initial retail partners include Bungalow, MRQT, Lodenfrey, and KaDeWe. Prices for the Japanese sandals range from 150 to 400 euros, with the exception of special models. There are quite a few of them, too. Collaborations are practically part of Suicoke’s footprint – be it with Moncler, Dr. Martens, or Italian manufacturer Marsèll. Suicoke, Tokyo/Japan, info@suicoke.com, www.suicoke.com
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Metaverse? Yes? No? Don’t know? Questions that metanatives do not even ask. Those who are growing up with gaming already consider the Metaverse a reality. The fact that we – Gen Z, Y, and X – are now exploring this world for the benefit of our brands may feel a bit like mum turning on really bright lights in a strategically darkened teenager’s room. All the more important to watch, listen, and understand before laying out your plans for the Metaverse. Strategies? Develop them WITH the target group, not merely FOR them. style in progress
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IS THIS R E A L? PLEASE FOLLOW ME TO THE META-LEVEL By Stephan Huber
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et me start by admitting that the term Metaverse is getting on my nerves already. Somehow, we have all stumbled into Mark Zuckerberg’s trap. He may not have invented the word itself, but he took ownership of it, and applied it. And then there is the inflationary use of the term. Yes, it is annoying. I am not alone in this sentiment, either.
However, it would be a truly monumental failure to even begin to underestimate this topic, or everything that is directly or indirectly subsumed under the term Metaverse. In doing so, one would be repeating the mistake that large parts of the fashion industry made on the threshold of social media and e-commerce at the time. Both ideas were initially not understood and/or ignored. The consequences are all too evident. Moreover, the subject, namely the ongoing transformation of our perception of reality, is, in fact, breathtakingly exciting. My dear and exceptionally smart friend Vahe Taamazyan, founder of Sizolution and tech enthusiast in the best sense of the term, asked me a remarkable question about two and a half years ago, during a very early discussion about what we now call the Metaverse. Back then, I did not really know what to make of the idea of
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so-called virtual fashion. He asked: “Stephan, do you think something is not real just because you cannot touch it?” Even then, as I suddenly realised at second glance when ignorance changed into almost childlike curiosity, everything was already in place: rapidly developing technology, virtual worlds as experiential spaces, community meeting places, and emerging marketplaces. Above all, the Metaverse was already populated by hundreds of millions of Gen Z and Gen Alpha users from around the globe, who had discovered this new frontier via gaming (Fortnite & similar) or gamification (TikTok & similar). This was long before the term clogged up my LinkedIn timeline. So, anyone who wishes to understand these generations, the target groups of the future, or interact with them on equal terms, must not merely accept the Metaverse as part of the new multi-level and multi-channel reality, but truly understand it. I am convinced that our dedicated focus on the topic, in which carefully selected experts such as Sallyann Houghton, Yaël Meier, and Marjorie Hernandez guide you into this uncharted territory, will contribute significantly to this understanding.
DRYKORN FOR BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE
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WHAT'S THE STORY
META.ME
THE NEW REALIT Y The so-called Fear of Missing Out is now appropriate. Anyone who dismisses the Metaverse and its possibilities as juvenile nonsense will ultimately lose out once more. Too late to the internet, too late to e-commerce, too late to social media – how about seizing the opportunities offered by the Metaverse as a pioneer? In September last year, Mark Zuckerberg was one of the first internet moguls to declare that he was going all-in. He announced to an enthused public that his company is changing its name from Facebook to Meta. Nomen est omen – a clear pointer in the direction of the Metaverse as a future vision of digital coexistence. He thus immortalised himself as the founding father of this new, digital world that no one has yet defined, let alone comprehended, in its entirety. Only one thing is certain: the Metaverse will also impact the fashion industry. The good news up front: Digital Fashion, Web 3.0, and the Metaverse will change our industry fundamentally. However, we have learned from past evolutionary leaps, such as the emergence of e-commerce, that they tend to open up additional channels rather than shut down existing ones. In other words, the future does not hold an either-or scenario, but rather a parallel existence of three central distribution channels: stationary retail, e-commerce, and the Metaverse. The current hype surrounding this topic shows that the direct-to-consumer mode of the Metaverse opens up unimagined possibilities for all players in the consumer goods industry. Conversations with pioneers in this field, however, give rise to a central misunderstanding: The Metaverse is not primarily another distribution channel for consumer goods, it is a platform for a subculture. The first predetermined breaking point: what exactly does Metaverse actually mean? Opinions are still divided on the exact definition of the buzzword that is the new high five of tech start-ups in Silicon Valley. Trivialised in everyday language, the discussion stands as follows: Metaverse signifies the fluid transition between analogue and virtual worlds, a borderless internet that connects people, things, and places – populated by avatars. It is made possible by technologies such as augmented and virtual reality, but above all by gaming platforms such as Unreal Engine. LUCRATIVE MARKET
Without wanting to demystify the technological innovations behind it, the Metaverse is still purely a cost-benefit calculation, especially for the fashion industry. A market for virtual avatar outfits in games such as Fortnite that is forecast to yield 40 billion US Dollars in annual sales makes one sit up and take notice – especially as production costs are quite attractive compared to physical fashion. Yet even below this tip of the iceberg, the new reality is that the young target group in particular predominantly meets, exchanges, informs and entertains themselves, and shops on the internet. If you want to remain relevant to this target group, you need to change the shop window. Text: Isabel Faiss, Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Interviewees
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Artisant is Nikita Rotanov’s digital marketplace for virtual avant-garde.
Artisant.io
„IF YOU DO IT, DO IT RIGHT“ He is the man one wants to ask the most pressing
questions about Metaverse: Nikita Rotanov is co-founder of Artisant.io, a platform for avant-garde virtual fashion. Which rules apply when one wishes to gain credibility with digital drops, NFTs, and campaigns in the Metaverse? A conversation about a still barely defined world, governed by new laws. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Artisant.io
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he foundation on which Artisant.io bases its success rests heavily on the crypto community. Yet this is one of the most demanding target groups. What are the specific rules of the game? The current go-to-market strategy of Web3.0 platforms like ourselves relies almost exclusively on building a community and growing it steadily. Collaborating with artists, designers, and brands increases our visibility and, consequently, our community. The most effective way to accomplish this is via Twitter and other messenger services, because their algorithms recognise and promote new content from the community. The entire focus should be placed on the community, on interacting, and on the emotional connection. At the same time, it is also important to develop a unique offering. Over the coming years, I expect to see a huge growth in the Metaverse and a detachment from existing gaming platforms – once the technical prerequisites are in place. Decentraland and Sandbox
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“Put commercial aspirations aside for a moment and concentrate on the essentials. This channel opens up completely new possibilities,” is Nikita Rotanov’s advice for all those who aim to play in the Metaverse.
currently still resemble video games from around the turn of the millennium. What is your concrete advice for all companies that are still looking for an inroad into the Metaverse? You need a clear goal, and you must know the market rules. All newcomers require a great deal of time and a professional strategy. Brands that manage to get it right have the opportunity of reaching a whole new target group, even offline. This will certainly be the first touchpoint with a brand, especially for younger generations, the success of which will also have an impact on sales figures in offline retail. Effective marketing campaigns are tailor-made for the Metaverse, because this channel is currently receiving more attention than any other communication conduit. So, is the Metaverse more about image than income? This channel functions best for image, marketing, and PR campaigns. The market is still too small for commercial ambitions. I would not advise any brand to attempt to sell massive amounts of goods via these channels. Rather, it is about creative interplay, exchange, and stories. The idea is to engage with the community and transcend boundaries – in design, for example. Another important aspect is the technology. You simply have to know how drops work, what people like, what they dislike, what mistakes others have already made, and not repeat those. If you do it, do it right.
SEE & ORDER AREAL BÖHLER DÜSSELDORF FASHN-ROOMS.COM
23|24|25
Showroom Concept
21|22|23|24|25
July 2022
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Tech pioneer Marjorie Hernandez has made it her mission to be a Web3 gamechanger.
The Demateralised
“A REVOLUTIONARY CHANCE” They were among the first to see and believe in the digital fashion market. The Dematerialised is run by an international, highly specialised team of experts who are already working on the next big challenge: establishing universal standards and enshrining user profiles. Tech pioneer Marjorie Hernandez is currently busy sifting through and structuring everything emerging in Web3. Interview: Isabel Faiss. Photos: The Dematerialised
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o which specific problem within the fashion industry does The Dematerialised offer a solution? The Dematerialised offers more than a solution to the problems that the fashion industry continually faces. It offers a whole new avenue for the fashion industry to explore and redefine consumer experiences, production processes, ownership, transparency, and introduces a seamless future-proof integration of blockchain technology for brands and designers to leverage the full potential of Web3. The world is rapidly changing as we are faced with a ground-breaking transformational process from the digital renaissance and New Creative Economy. The new intersections of the internet have introduced what we call the Metaverse. The most crucial question now is, how can brands ensure that their value proposition translates into a more digital future within such environments? Traditionally, industries like fashion and gaming have been separated into different silos, but now these industries are converging in a new digital lifestyle arena. This technological shift is a revolutionary chance for industries like fashion to be redefined and brands need to prepare for what this future holds. Simultaneously, this chance presents a huge risk if they do not answer this question with the right tools and standards in mind that ensure a long-term strategic approach to evolve seamlessly with true functionality and mainstream use-cases, enabling access to the full potential of the New Creative Economy where interoperability, identity, transparency, and sustainability will be key factors.
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As part of the third Vogue Talents Edition, Cormio released a dress limited to 100 units on The Dematerialised. The dress was designed to be staged in virtual space, as Kuki AI does here.
In terms of consumption, The Dematerialised can offer an alternative avenue to absorb a portion of the fast-fashion market by providing users the experience of buying something new every now and then with digital assets that have fun and unique utilities, without over-producing physical goods. It is a convenient consumer experience and an alternative to physical fast fashion, especially for young customers who want to explore digital experiences and tend to buy new fashion garments at frequent intervals. Digital fashion can address one of the biggest challenges the fashion industry is facing at the moment, which is the environmental impact on the world. What differentiates The Dematerialised from other similar platforms? One of the things that differentiates The Dematerialised from other platforms is that we were very likely the first Web3 digital fashion experiential marketplace selling assets with digital fashion as NFTs. We started in March 2020. The Dematerialised team understands all parts of the puzzle: The gaming community, the fashion business, and the technical aspects. That sounds like your start-up is the current market leader in this niche? Yes, 100 percent. I would say that we own the market leadership. But the market is not as niche as it used to be. Back in 2020, when I explained this topic to people it was almost esoteric. The more we move forward in this journey the more we are building the next generation of internet. We are going to have more avenues of seamless experiences, being in the digital environment is going to be a second nature, like we are already living in a symbiotic relationship with our mobiles. The consumption of digital assets will not be something so rare any longer. We already do consume digital assets and services all the time. It is about to become accessible. We know with digital technologies, once something is available, it is going to happen. When will digital fashion become a scalable business? The market is already profitable, and I think there is a large group of people who strongly believe in it. Most probably, the mo-
Collectibles are not only the real deal offline: Chromatik Karl.
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VJ Anard wearing the Quarry Collectible Sneakers by Esquire x Tobyato x Satoshi Studio Drip.
When real and virtual catwalks merge: top model Kristen McMenamy wears accessories by Meta-Fashion Crystal, which were later made available on The Dematerialised.
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ment we have succeeded is when we do not submit a distinction between traditional products and digital assets. When users of all demographics, all ages, in all different locations are just buying digital fashion and the technology behind it is no longer the centre of the conversation. The moment all of these pieces become almost like de facto, and you just assume it is the way it is, then I think we have made it. What is the magic of Universal Profiles? Why will this be a gamechanger in the Metaverse? They are very important. Universal Profiles is crucial for a simplified onboarding process in Web3 and enhances the experience with blockchain technology, empowering brands and users. It is pretty much the same approach as the smart contract standards. With Universal Profiles we can enable our users to issue on-chain profiles. It is like a unique identifier that you fully own and control, but it is platform agnostic. At the moment, we do not have plugged direct stick profiles. If I log in with my Facebook account, I can be sure that at any given application it is still my Facebook account. We are implementing Web3 profiles as a blockchain-based identity. It will not identify you as a citizen of a country, but it will be your identity in all entities of the internet. And then via your universal profile, you will be able to access different applications since they have cross-platform interoperability within the New Creative Economy ecosystem. Is this also a step towards decentralising IPs and making them applicable to any Metaverse? The beautiful thing about smart contract-based profiles is that they work in all applications. So basically, when it comes to integration, all you must do as any given platform is to open these arrays of smart contracts as profiles and guarantee access to those users. One of the biggest challenges that we face in this newest version of the web is interoperability and portability. The question is whether I can take my stuff with me. Now I know I can, because it is truly mine. But can I take it anywhere I want? That is the question all the different asset providers have to answer by allowing integration of Universal Profiles. This will definitely be a gamechanger.
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StyleXchange
“AN UNPRECEDENTED OPPORTUNITY TO REINVENT YOURSELF” Leo Hilse possesses the in-depth knowhow to get to the heart of the most complex processes and issues surrounding the Metaverse and fashion NFTs. With his start-up styleXchange, an online platform and store for fashion NFTs, he translates the logic of fashion and market into a virtual context. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: styleXchange
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hat did the announcement by Marc Zuckerberg that he was betting all his chips on the Metaverse theme by changing the name to Meta trigger? That was close to the big bang. When we started with virtual fashion NFTs in the Metaverse for styleXchange in July 2021, the topic barely received attention. Zuckerberg’s statement created an enormous splash. NFTs, various Metaverses, and decentralised virtual worlds exploded last year. What exactly does the term Metaverse mean? Metaverse means that personalities come together in decentralised worlds and experience things via their avatar, i.e. meet others, go to places, and exchange things. The most important point is the decentralised aspect, namely that Metaverses are basically open to everyone and give the community a voice. So, there is no such thing as THE Metaverse, but many different ones?
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styleXchange founder Leo Hilse has two important tips for newcomers to the Metaverse: “Never translate the existing into the virtual, reinvent yourself! And create the appropriate utility for your NFT drops.”
Exactly, and that is the biggest problem that brands will encounter. There is not just one Metaverse like Instagram. Currently we have five to six major ones, and there are 20 to 30 more being built around the globe. It is impossible to predict which of these will be the most relevant. What we can predict is that there will be a few very different ones. Brands need to decide which one to invest in. It will not be enough to be represented in just one. At present, they are not compatible in terms of 3D visualisation and uploading on the various blockchains. Sandbox and Decentraland are currently the two biggest Metaverses. A problem that styleXchange has addressed. What is your approach? styleXchange is a platform for virtual fashion NFTs that can be leveraged cross-metaverse. We launch NFTs for different Metaverses, whereby bridging is our core competence. We
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styleXchange launches new capsule collections every month at virtual events, which are created in collaboration with international designers. 200 to 300 guests meet via avatars, enjoy live music, talk to designers, and try on the latest NFT drops.
collaborate with brands, designers, and artists to transfer their ideas and products into the virtual world and offer them to the community of virtual 3D worlds in our shop. When will we reach the point where virtual fashion becomes a viable market? Virtual fashion will be a serious sales channel for brands in 10 years at the latest. Around 20 to 40 percent of goods will be sold digitally. Realistically, it will probably take another five to 10 years for the market to open up and we are all still very early to the party. This is also a generational issue. I am in my mid-20s, and I see that people my age find it difficult to spend 2,000 Euros on a digital asset. If you talk to 13- to 15-yearolds who spend much time on the internet and play video games, especially during the corona pandemic, this has been reality for a long time. They assign monetary values to virtual goods – as a matter of course. How important is the brand in the Metaverse? Brands are important and also function in the Metaverse. Brands are presented an unprecedented opportunity to
completely reinvent themselves. The Metaverse even provides brands that have been around for decades with an organic opportunity to artificially split themselves up in a completely new way and create a virtual alter ego. How does styleXchange as a store address its customers? We launch a new capsule collection on a theme every month, create our own themed virtual space in the Metaverse, and invite five to 10 international 3D designers and creators to present their NFTs on that topic. These are actually virtual get-togethers where the avatars of 200 to 300 people gather to enjoy live music, meet others, and conduct live interviews with designers. Each month has its own motto. Given that the market and customers are still so young, we can experiment extensively. When I visit styleXchange in five years, what should I expect? As a completely free platform, we want to act as the enabler through which brands can launch and make their virtual products accessible to all Metaverses. style in progress
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SHOP THE METAVERSE
So, what does the Metaverse actually look like now? A question to which first movers in our industry have an answer.
The hybrid campaign of AlphaTauri was created with Unreal Engine by Epic Games.
ALBERTO
META CONCEPT
The trouser specialist usually does not compete with his retailers. The one exception is the Alberto Concept Store in the brand’s hometown Mönchengladbach. It serves as an experimentation space that allows direct customer feedback. Alberto approaches the Metaverse with the same mindset: A digital online shop in digital space that offers a completely new shopping experience. One enters the shop, which features three-dimensionally visualised trousers, with an avatar. The main difference to many other Metaverse stores is that one can actually shop and pay with conventional payment methods. Everything that is placed in the shopping basket is delivered to the desired address as a real parcel shortly thereafter. https://play.qs-metaworlds.com/
An inspiring playground for end consumers and yet a real store in which one can buy real pants: the Alberto Metaverse.
ALPHATAURI
HYBRID WORLDS
Fashion brand AlphaTauri fuses digital and physical worlds in a variety of disciplines. Hence, it presents its campaign in tandem. Launched in three communication runs, the campaign underlines the brand’s focus on innovation and technology in fashion. Ahmet Mercan, CEO of AlphaTauri: “Our goal is to further strengthen our relevance in the field of innovation and to deliver inspiring content. This campaign represents an innovative hybrid format that conveys the tech aspects of the brand very well and is therefore another important step. The current campaign, in which we fuse real elements with virtual ones, was produced using Unreal Engine by Epic Games. In the context of the Metaverse, this innovative hybrid format also reflects our ‘real world first’ approach: Our aim is to create a seamless transition between physical and digital spheres.” The campaign is rolled out on social media and in AlphaTauri stores, as well as at the brand’s partners. To this end, completely digital, three-dimensional worlds, to be projected onto LED walls, were 152
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created in a studio. This virtual background is combined with props from the real world, combining the digital with the analogue plane to create a new visual experience. The technology has so far been primarily utilised by the film and gaming industries. Art Car & NFT Helmet At the F1 GP in Miami, AlphaTauri and the Red Bull team, Scuderia Alpha Tauri, introduced the Metaverse to the world of sport. An Art Car was launched in collaboration with renowned artist REMOTE. Two days before the race, Scuderia AlphaTauri drivers Pierre Gasly and Yuki Tsunoda met with REMOTE to catch a first glimpse of the F1 show car. During their visit, both drivers grabbed a spray can and designed helmets, which were digitised as NFTs and auctioned off in aid of the Wings for Life Foundation.
GERMANY'S FASHION FAIR FOR LUXURY WOMEN'S AND MENSWEAR
DÜSSELDORF 22 JUL – 25 JUL 2022 B1 / BENNIGSEN-PLATZ 1
MUNICH 06 AUG – 09 AUG 2022 MTC / INGOLSTÄDTER STR. 45
THE SUPREME GROUP
INFO@THESUPREMEGROUP.DE
BY MUNICHFASHION.COMPANY
WWW.THESUPREMEGROUP.DE
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In her capacity as head of business development in regard to fashion at Epic Games, Sallyann Houghton ponders ideas that enhance experiences in virtual spaces.
Epic Games
“THE METAVERSE WILL NOT HAVE BILLBOARDS”
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How can we actually do business in the Metaverse? Hardly anyone could provide a better assessment than Sallyann Houghton, Head of Business Development Fashion Industry at Epic Games. That is the company behind the popular game Fortnite and the development environment Unreal Engine, which offers all the tools required to build 3D worlds and games. Sallyann Houghton explains what all this has to do with the Metaverse, and which new rules fashion brands have to follow there. Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Petrina Engelke, Photos: Unreal Engine courtesy of McQueen, Unreal Future courtesy of Artisant
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allyann, I think you were the first in my circles to use the word Metaverse when we did our last interview in November. Now it seems nobody is talking about anything else. What happened? Sallyann Houghton: I remember I used to feel a bit sheepish saying the word Metaverse because I was not sure if people would understand it, or what it would mean to them. I also did not want to sound as if I was talking some kind of tech lingo. The reality is that no one knows exactly what the Metaverse is or what it will look like, but as you say, in the last six months, it has gone insane. Now I am actually trying not to say the word Metaverse, just because it has become such a loaded word with so many definitions. Just like sustainability. Oh my gosh, absolutely! For that reason, we need to be more precise when talking about this concept. The Metaverse has been discussed to some extent for quite a long time, but only in the last few years has it really picked up steam as we are getting closer to building persistent digital spaces. But my answer to how the fashion industry should be thinking about the Metaverse, or virtual spaces where you have ownership of your digital goods, would have been the same six months ago. Fashion companies should invest in it, because persistent virtual worlds allow for them to project their craft in high fidelity, with photorealistic capabilities that have not been possible until recently. This level of quality and detail – with textures, physics, colours, et cetera – finally lives up to designers’ and consumers’ expectations. And, of course, there is also social interactivity, there is community. That has spawned out of the gaming landscape, and games have been around for a very long time. Fundamentally, the Metaverse is just real-time 3D with open standards, digital ownership, and fair economies for creators. It was funny for me to realise that this is nothing new for the generation of our kids. I recently asked my son to join me when I entered a virtual event for business. He said: And you think that is cool, or what? Because of the poor graphics, he was not interested. Young people or gamers, who are very savvy in these types of interactive spaces, are expecting more sophisticated virtual experiences. Whereas people who have not spent much time in these digital spaces are more interested in how easy and accessible these virtual worlds can be. They do not want to feel silly in the space. So, they need a beat to become knowledgeable and get comfortable. This is why digital storefronts exist, and this is why you are starting to see more companies embrace 3D, interactive content on their storefronts. Digital storefronts are the dullest, the coldest, most lonely spaces where you can
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go and look at a product. Moving around a 3D store is the furthest away from something engaging and fun, but they do have a purpose, because they invite an existing shopper into a three-dimensional space. That allows them to see that this space can be more than a two-dimensional feed, or more than a real-life experience. Like the Vogue event recently. I do not know the stats, but I am pretty confident that easily two thirds of the people who attended that event have never been to a virtual space before. So, anything more than moving up, down, left, right would have been too much for them. Nevertheless, if you want access to future consumer generations, you need to draft a Metaverse strategy right now. What should a business consider when positioning itself in this new environment? First and foremost, this space is moving very quickly. And I think everyone should feel okay about feeling overwhelmed with all these options and choices. You watch the Balenciagas of the world, and they get a lot of credit for being trailblazers, but they have done a lot of experimenting. Others are dabbling with NFTs or different places. There has been a lot of activity, but I think it is really important to take a beat and think about how your brand can be represented in digital spaces. Try not to get too lost in what the Metaverse will be, but just think about the here and now. What your creations, your intellectual property could look like. How you want to be represented in digital spaces now. And it is crucial to take a moment to think about the why. What are your brand’s priorities? Which of these technologies resonate with your audience? Is this about your existing community or about new communities? What opportunities are afforded to your brand in terms of virtual experiences? Channel all the information into why you should do something and then what the execution should be comes into focus naturally. What could that look like? That may be investing in 3D assets, like garments, characters, or accessories. Start to understand what you can then do with these 3D assets. Even if it is just a simple interaction on your website. Then get some feedback from your community. Are they enjoying this? And then start to have a feedback loop of growth. Do you think it is important for companies to involve young people in this process? To be honest, I think it is important to include talented young people in everything you do. If you want to be a successful company that is relevant and has longevity, then you should definitely have a diverse team – and that also means a diversity of age. However, we have to be careful when people think that gamers equal young people. Actually, the average gamer’s age now is 35. And having a gamer on your team definitely helps, because they will feel much more confident about the possibilities, benefits, and opportunities in this space without having to read a manual. I also think it is important to understand that what we call Metaverse is interactive by design. The consumer is not just a consumer, but also a creator. And that makes it difficult for businesses. The principle used to be: someone produces something, the end consumer buys it, end of the story. Well, you say that, but in fashion, beauty, and luxury there is also curation. Trends and cultural events are incorporated, and what people buy, we make more of. So it has not always been style in progress
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Epic Games’ Unreal Engine can be used free of charge (until you make more than 1 million US Dollars with your video game; it is free for use in film, television, and advertising). Sallyann Houghton calls this approach democratising the tools that are needed to build the Metaverse. She hopes this will allow for a creative diversity.
a passive experience for the consumer. Although you simply sell a red jumper, I have decided to style this red jumper with a yellow sash, a blue skirt, and a headband. That is a combination that no other person can replicate. This quality can come to the forefront even more in virtual spaces. You could not do that on a website, but in these virtual spaces, you can have agency. You can bring your friends in, and you can have an engaging experience together, create an event, art piece, or outfit together. I actually think that it leapfrogs the internet to a place where we were happier in the real world, where it was much more of a communal space. I really believe that is the Metaverse. You can input on whatever level you are most comfortable with. How does that work? There are all kinds of tools you can use, whether it is an augmented beauty tool to allow you to apply makeup in a digital space in a sophisticated way, whether it is dressing, whether it is building or sharing content. And then, of course, there is Unreal Engine, which is limitless. You could use it to make an interactive world of your own. There will also be more and more accessible tools that will flood the marketplace and will connect well together. In order for the Metaverse to really work, these tools and services will need to be open and interoperable. The discussion right now seems to revolve around opening a new market channel. And honestly, as much as I am in favour of business opportunities, if this was the only aspect of the Metaverse, I would be very disappointed. What can this new space be beyond that? I think your worry is a common one. And as a result, I really believe that that will not be the case. Certainly, there will be marketplaces and thriving economies in the Metaverse, where you can buy supplies or products, either for your digital avatar or real-world self. Yet we believe the Metaverse will continue to grow, and people will continue to go there to experience, 156
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engage, be with friends and family, and enjoy community activities. The Metaverse is not designed to replace in-person interaction – it is about unlocking real-time 3D experiences that are uniquely suited to a digital world. To that end, we will see the Metaverse concept evolve through engagement and social entertainment. This is easier to grasp if you understand gaming. Gamers are used to being in immersive entertaining spaces with their friends, and they see the value in that. I am sure purchases will be part of it, but only as a sidenote. In the last ten years or more, the digital world has merely seen people as consumers, and everyone was aiming at convenience. But I think convenience makes people stupid and lazy. For example, when I was a boy, I knew 40 to 50 telephone numbers by heart, because there was no other way. Today, I know my own number and my wife’s number. That is it. Then you know one more than me. (Laughs) From that perspective, what will it mean if the Metaverse now becomes a space of participation, where you are not simply waiting for others to make it as easy as possible for you? You know, on the internet, you are a captive audience. And until now, the internet has been very much like push messaging. It just pushes things out onto the platform, hoping something will stick. I do not want to take away from the creativity that lies within the advertising industry. And yes,
“Try not to get too lost in what the
Metaverse will be, but just think about how you want to be represented in digital spaces now. And it is crucial to take a moment to think about the why.”
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For now, virtual spaces feel unfamiliar to many people in the fashion industry. Including gaming fans in strategic teams can help prepare a company for the Metaverse – after all, gamers will not have to read a manual first, says Sallyann Houghton.
“For brands to be successful in virtual spaces, it has to be about experiences that are authentic – and wanted.” social media helped in terms of data collection, but the underlying principle has always been: I am going to put some messages out there and see how it goes. That will not fly in the Metaverse, as you can already see in gaming landscapes. The Metaverse does not care if you sell cornflakes, because I do not need cornflakes in the Metaverse. And if you spoil the game that I was playing with my friends in the Metaverse, I am certainly not going to buy your cornflakes in real life. Gamers do not bond well with any kind of advertising. They consider this their space, and they feel incredibly empowered within that space. For someone to intrude on that environment, pushing something on them… they will just turn their avatar around and go somewhere else, you know. You have the power to do that in a virtual space. And if that advertisement follows them, then they will not go to that space anymore, because it spoils their experience. So what can brands learn from the gaming landscape that will be helpful for business? The Metaverse will not have billboards in it, and its plan is not to keep people captive to gain more points. For brands to be successful in virtual spaces, it has to be about experiences that are authentic – and wanted. I think that there is a new set of rules for brands. You have to think about how you want to engage, not how you want to shout at people. How will the business world learn to share an open space with competitors and not try and build their own brand’s Metaverse? I think that is just education. I hope that consumers will become savvier to the language and, as a result, brands will
not get away with simply throwing in the word “Metaverse” in order to sound tech savvy or as if they owned a space that does not exist. I mean, the word “Metaverse” comes from a science fiction novel. And the definition is quite clear: it is the wholeness of all digital spaces, not just one. The Metaverse is the internet, but in a three-dimensional, real-time form. Just like the internet, no one owns it. If one company stood up and said they owned the internet, we would all laugh at them. And I think that is how we will feel in the future when people are using the Metaverse word proprietorially. And it is not science fiction anymore. No. That is crazy, is it not? As part of the Unreal Engine 5 release, we made the The Matrix Awakens: An Unreal Engine 5 Experience demo and created a photorealistic world with AI, in which you can walk around and interact. The Matrix was a way out-there sci-fi film not too long ago. And now its elements are an absolute reality, and they are available to everyone. The idea of MetaHumans was science fiction ten years ago. And now we have the MetaHuman Creator, a cloud-based application that anyone can utilise. That is kind of mind-blowing. There are still a lot of people out there who think it is rather frightening. We have to keep going back to the fact that these are tools. A frightening picture can be painted with the same paintbrush that was used to paint a rose. It is our responsibility to use these tools appropriately.
“The Metaverse is the internet, but in a three-dimensional, real-time form. Just like
the internet, no one owns it.”
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With dob Studio, Joshua Oh created virtual alter egos (his digital twin is pictured on the right) and personalities who look, present themselves, and act as the programmer intended. They can do what physical influencers cannot: tap into the Metaverse without limits.
Dob Studio
THE RISE OF THE DIGITAL ADAM AND EVE Farewell, fig leaf. Are virtual influencers, who hardly differ visually from real people, the new godsend in the evolutionary history of Web 3.0? Infinite freedom translated into a digital personality that can be, say, do, and achieve anything? With dob Studio, Joshua Oh creates virtual personalities, prototypes for made-to-measure influencers as a digital marketing and self-exposure tool. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: dob Studio
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question one would never ask a human parent: How and why was your first virtual influencer Rui born? I wanted to be able to express the various, inherent masks of multi persona by switching them to the face of another person or being. Of course, there are many charms of an influencer other than a face, which we cannot create with any super computers. So, we suggested that we find a person who is willing to work as a shadow actor and become a virtual influencer. We wanted to effectively promote this technology to more people, and to encourage more people to use this technology to become virtual influencers. We were looking for people who can create content that will be loved by many in a short period of time. The
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“We are excited to see how AI-powered deep learning technology could transform a person’s face into a completely different look,” says Joshua Oh. dob Studio launched its first virtual influencer, named Rui, on YouTube at the end of October 2020. Today, Rui’s SNS followers count 52.8k on YouTube and 12.7k on Instagram.
person I met is a singer who is now Rui’s shadow actor. She trusted our technology to ensure anonymity, so she can fully enjoy singing and dancing. We mainly produce music content that covers pop and K-pop, and we act as a virtual influencer via the RuiCovery channel on YouTube. In summary, Rui can be described as a digital Adam or Eve, born to show people around the world a digital me that can be recognized as a human by others. What about the price point of a virtual influencer? In the case of a virtual influencer, a hyper-realistic virtual human that can quickly create commercial value, considerable costs are incurred at the beginning of production. A virtual influencer can only survive when a shadow actor, computer engineer, marketer, and social media expert work together. But if you can afford the upfront costs, virtual influencers can be very effective in the long run, both for companies and shadow actors. Companies can carry out strategic marketing activities at will through virtual influencers with the desired appearance and attractiveness. They no longer have to worry at about the moral hazard risk of a celebrity hired as an advertising model. How will virtual influencers change the market? Virtual influencers are likely to have a significant impact on the consumer market in the future due to their anonymity and topicality. First of all, they could not care less about reputations. They do not have to worry about paparazzi or about the opinions of others. So, Lil Miquela kisses Bella Hadid and FN Meka can post any provocative content on TikTok. A virtual influencer is more likely to be a topic of conversation than a human influencer. In
As a real person, Rui is a regular, hard-working student. As a digital persona, she is an active virtual influencer and ambassador for the South Korean Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism.
addition to stimulating words and actions, the state-ofthe-art technology that makes their existence possible also stimulates curiosity. They cannot exist offline, but they will have a big impact online. In 2018, for example, Miquela was ranked in TIME magazine’s Top 25 Most Influential People Online. It should also be noted that their main stage, SNS and Metaverse platforms, are Gen Z playgrounds. Virtual influencers that stand out with their unique charms and provocative words and actions also influence Gen Z’s consumption activities. Of course, such a trend will be more pronounced in the digital space, but it will definitely affect consumption offline. style in progress
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They have plenty to offer their customers: Zeam founders Yaël Meier and Jo Dietrich.
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GAMING SOCIAL MEDIA METAVERSE!
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The Metatwins of Zeam as employees in the Metaverse.
If you wish to understand the Metaverse and Gen Z, you need to ask these guys. Not least because they are Gen Z themselves. Yaël Meier and Jo Dietrich founded Zeam in 2020 to advise companies that seek to address the young target group, either as customers or employees. What do they bring to the table? Know-how, intuition, and a fresh entrepreneurial spirit. For style in progress, they sat down for a chat with Stephan Huber and Nicoletta Schaper. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Zeam
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etaverse is the predominant buzzword in the fashion industry. Yet do most people even know what they are talking about when referring to the Metaverse? Yaël Meier, co-founder of Zeam: Good question. Currently, there is no clear definition of the Metaverse, just like there is no clear definition of sustainable fashion. We consider the Metaverse to be the moment when digital life becomes as relevant as real life. This cultural shift is happening right now. Almost everything the fashion industry is currently discussing with great excitement is completely normal for the generation that is growing up with gaming. Do they have a completely different understanding of the virtual and real world than my generation? Yaël Meier: We conducted a study on Gen Z and on the Metaverse in which more than 4,000 people from different generations were interviewed. Young people are clearly better informed about it than the older population. That certainly has something to do with the fact that we have been moving in digital worlds from an early age. For example, Fortnite, a popular Gen Z game, is already one of the largest fashion brands. They sell billions worth of digital skins every year. Jo Dietrich, co-founder of Zeam: This is where NFTs come into play. We ourselves have been investing in NFTs, which will feature in the Metaverse, for the past year. In the future, the most valuable possessions of young people will be digital. Is the Metaverse just another marketplace, or will it – buzzword alert – have a purpose? Yaël Meier: Even today, there are an incredible number of projects in the Metaverse that aim to change the world for the better. On the other hand, especially in the context
of marketing, many aspects are extremely commercially motivated. Actually it is quite similar to the real world. We saw what social media did to us. It promised to make the world more open and democratic. In fact, the opposite has happened. Yaël Meier: Social media has actually done both. It has democratised by giving many more reach. Our generation has grown up with the loudest mouthpiece ever. At the same time, social media is used to deliberately polarise and manipulate. The Metaverse will also feature both sides. I am particularly critical of the legal aspects, which always lag behind technological developments. How can assaults on the digital self be prevented? As a company, you help bridge the generation gap, which is more glaring than in previous generations thanks to the internet. What exactly is the idea behind Zeam? Jo Dietrich: In 2019, I was in my early 20s and Yaël was not even 20 yet. At that time, many products and campaigns that were obviously aimed at us but totally missed the mark caught our eye. When we researched corporations, it became apparent that no one from the target group was represented in teams developing products and campaigns for 14- to 25-year-olds. It became immediately clear to us: we have to close this gap! Today we employ 24 people between the ages of 16 and 26 and collaborate with the largest companies in Germany and Switzerland. What are the responsibilities of the 16-year-old? Yaël Meier: Timon is our content creator. He has been running a YouTube channel since he was twelve and is an absolute social media professional. He also manages YouTube, Instagram, and, above all. TikTok channels for us. We use these channels to provide insight into our work and they lead to more applications than we can handle. Soon this will be a completely normal job in every company! People used to tell young professionals that they still have a lot to learn. Is there a growing realisation that companies can also learn a great deal from young people? Yaël Meier: Yes, absolutely. 20 years ago, young people discovered the internet for themselves, and nobody took style in progress
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The 24 employees of Zeam are between 16 and 26 years old.
it seriously. That cost companies dearly. The same thing happened with social media. Today, people are watching us much more closely because our toys could be the next big thing. That is why there is so much interest in the Metaverse – people have learned from their mistakes. Jo Dietrich: We are currently working on a particularly exciting project with Jelmoli, the oldest luxury fashion house in Switzerland, which will be the first Swiss department stores to welcome customers in the Metaverse. In collaboration with Swiss Textile College STF, selected garments are produced and sold in a sales corner at Jelmoli. Simultaneously, we plan to present these pieces in a digitised form as NFTs in a three-dimensional showroom. Everyone can decide whether they want to explore the space wearing VR glasses. The physical and digital presentation starts on the 8th of June and can be experienced for a month at Jelmoli in the department store and online.
“The Metaverse will be the place where young people hang out.” Yaël Meier: This presentation is not primarily about the best possible VR experience, but about the role retail could play in the Metaverse and how overproduction can be avoided through digital fashion. We wanted to test what is possible in a virtual environment, and to do so as simply as possible: as a use case for a stationary department store that also offers its products digitally. Do people buy an NFT for which they subsequently receive a physical garment? How does the transaction work? Is payment actually made with the cryptocurrency Ether? The use case will answer these questions. With whom did you set this up? Jo Dietrich: We created it ourselves. We own several virtual rooms that we can furnish with three-dimensional NFTs. 162
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Cool that you have such a low-threshold approach. Much of the Metaverse is still completely uncharted territory. Jo Dietrich: I believe the Metaverse is ultimately gaming plus social media. From a cultural point of view, the Metaverse is a place where digital products are as real as physical ones. My aha moment was a TikTok video by RTFKT in which a digital jacket could be worn thanks to AR filters. I thought that was crazy at the time! The second aha moment was Travis Scott’s concert in Fortnite in 2020, where his Nike sneakers were presented larger than life to 12 million concertgoers. Product placement does not get more ingenious than that! My concern is that the Metaverse could end up being a place for vulgar capitalism. I say this as a convinced market economist. Could it lack intellectual focus and merely be about market share? Yaël Meier: I would not view it so negatively. When the internet came into being, the young started playing while older people said that they do not need it. People looked for jobs in the newspaper. Who would want to find a job online? Then social media came along and, again, everyone was asleep at the wheel. Why have a friend online or post videos when you can see each other in real life? Yet the longer you wait, the more expensive it becomes to get started. And in the Metaverse, you do not want to be too late once more. Absolutely right. That is also my appeal: anyone who has anything to do with customer journeys in any way and earns their money with consumer goods must at least contemplate a Metaverse strategy. Jo Dietrich: Exactly, the Metaverse is simply about experimenting and testing. Fashion brands also have to experiment, in the simplest possible way. There is always a care value. Even if no one is following your campaign, you are still learning. And sooner or later you will come across something exciting.
AUTUMN.WINTER 23/24
30/08 – 01/09 2022 INTERNATIONAL FABRIC TRADE SHOW
m u n i c h f a b r i c s t a r t .c o m
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Product-only is no longer sufficient; and some long-standing mechanisms have been completely reversed. How does one attract millennials and Gen Z, as a brand, influencer, or retail concept? How does one inspire, convince, and retain them? Here are some inspirations on how to succeed.
IT'S ALL ABOUT COMMUNITY!
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Illustration: AdobeStock/Dariia. Photos: Interviewees and stores
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EXCHANGE As a digital platform, By Rotation is an authoritative app for fashion rental. What makes you so successful? Eshita Kabra, CEO of By Rotation: It is the only pure peer-topeer fashion rental platform, which means we are 100 percent circular. In other words, we do not buy the merchandise, we rent it out. To this end, we invested heavily in our technology, which has secured us a unique position in the fashion rental industry. Is renting fashion the key solution for the younger generation? I believe that Gen Z is becoming increasingly aware of the negative impact of the fashion industry and that the industry still has plenty of work to do in terms of changing its production methods. For By Rotation, I believe that quality fashion needs to be made accessible to people from all walks of life. One of your core values is to be consumer focused. We have built a community of style and eco-conscious people and I love that fashion rental really transcends the transaction itself. The beauty of our social platform is the interaction with other fashion lovers who discuss style, size, and fit. They follow each other. This is how many rotators have socialised through the app. This human interaction is unparalleled, as it provides a sense of camaraderie that goes beyond transactional exchanges, and that is something that is difficult to emulate.
Isla Berlin
FROM FRIENDS TO FRIENDS Charissa, young women in particular love Isla Berlin. How did you turn your store into a retail destination? Charissa Chioccarelli, founder of Isla Berlin: By applying a highly community-driven approach to the concept. Prior to the launch in 2017, I discussed with friends what we thought was missing in the retail environment. That was the foundation of a store intended for a community that shares interests. Here, you can have your nails done, try on fashion by independent labels, and listen to music. Occasionally, we host workshops for ring making, or tattoo events. Anything that suits our community is conceivable. One can also discover and book female DJs. Yes, that is an important aspect. Already well-known DJs perform at our venue, and beginners can practise their sets and get booked through us. That lends the store its special atmosphere. Beyond that, I just love empowering young women. How do you communicate with your target group? We post what they are looking for on Instagram, preferably even before they are looking for it. I introduce trends as early as possible and take my cue from influencers who are also part of our community. When we post something, we do so as if we were writing to friends. This gives customers the feeling of being part of the whole, of meeting friends in the store. This is how the young people of today wish to consume, offline as well as online! Online communication is changing rapidly, and we are adapting quickly. Right now it is all about videos, memes, and fun content. Memes are an excellent way to show that you are part of the culture. They are little messages that only those who belong understand. And they show: Hey, I am like you. style in progress
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Ikea
TRADITION GOES NEXT GENERATION
Instead of a huge blue and yellow container on the outskirts of the city, this Ikea in western Vienna presents itself as a residential building with a green façade – an urban ideal of the future. It neither features the usual circuit nor the typical self-service hall. Rather, it presents products in an appealing manner. The underground stops right outside and whatever is too bulky can be transported by cargo bike or e-truck. The premises offers lively meeting places, such as the roof terrace, which is accessible to guests of the hostel above Ikea until midnight. By embracing risk, Ikea provides an answer to what the retail company could resemble in the future, when an increasing number of people live in large cities and drive less. A big image gain for Ikea, and a smart move towards the next generation.
So Real/Which PLM
“VIRTUAL FASHION IS SUSTAINABLE” Is virtual fashion the future? Mark Harrop, Advisory Board of SO REAL and CEO of Which PLM: Yes. Young consumers in particular are already embracing virtual reality and understand that many products on the internet are computer-generated images. Given this understanding, they also desire instant gratification in terms of fashion. What opportunities does this present for market participants? Virtual fashion is already more sustainable, a key demand of the younger generation. Going forward, the industry can significantly reduce its carbon footprint by drastically reducing physical samples, which also means fewer flights. It increases efficiency and reduces costs. The see-and-buy aspect of readily available fashion is another advantage. How does a fashion company become relevant to young people? They wish to work for companies that are committed to the environment, equality, and social responsibility. Today, consumers vote on the social performance of companies with their credit card. It is high time for a truly sustainable future.
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Pangaia
FUTURE-MINDED
Pangaia fulfils several requirements of a young, sustainability-oriented community. Fronted by a successful direct-to-consumer concept featuring fashionable casualwear, the London and New York-based company also offers a B2B science platform; for 100 textile innovations developed in research centres in Italy and Portugal to help brands and suppliers alike move towards a more sustainable fashion industry. The latest coup? Pangaia Health superfoods, with the ambitious goal of harmonising human and planetary health. Thus, Pangaia operates in a highly innovative and future-oriented manner on many levels, which excites young consumers for whom a fashion brand is much more than merely casual fashion.
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RELEVANCE AND REACH
More than 1,500,000 followers on YouTube and more than 900,000 followers on instagram speak for themselves: Justin Fuchs is one of the most authoritative influencers in Germany and beyond. What started with design videos was expanded with gaming videos and, in 2016, with self-designed streetwear. Peso Clothing tends to be sold out shortly after each new drop. To democratise the brand for fans, Peso Raws, featuring basics at fair prices that are always available, was introduced. This does not detract from desirability: well-known fashion brands are vying for collaborations with the YouTube star. Fuchs is the best example of how to follow one’s own passions, thereby maintaining credibility for the generation of the same age – and thus gaining relevance and reach.
Style3D
FASHION GOES VIRTUAL Will future generations exclusively hang out in the Metaverse? Amal Jomaa, Business Development Director at Style3D: There is strong evidence to support that. Gen Alpha are virtually native in navigating and living their lives on Metaverse platforms like Roblox. It was exactly the same when millennials and Gen Z became digital natives as they grew up with social media and allowed it to interweave with every aspect of their lives. What does this mean for those hoping to address Gen Z? The opportunities for virtual fashion are enormous. Social media ushered in entirely new business models, like direct-to-consumer and influencer marketing. Similarly, a completely new ecosystem will flourish around the opportunities the Metaverse offers. The biggest catalyst would be the release of Apple’s AR glasses, rumoured to be realised later this year. Which impact does virtual fashion have on “real fashion”? My guess is that reality will surpass our wildest dreams. The part that I am most excited about is the entirely new aesthetic and creative freedom offered by virtual mediums! People will be emboldened to wear virtual designs they would not wear in real life. Today, reach and relevance are essential. How does one reach Gen Z? With authenticity and originality. Gen Z is an incredibly engaged generation. To appeal to them, brands need to be clear about their values. They need to embody these values in their product, operations, and communication.
EXPERIENCE, FEELING, AND MOMENT Will we all rent clothes in the future? Carmen Jenny, co-founder of Clothes Friends: Renting clothes will play an extremely important role in the way we consume clothing. Our vision is that people will keep high-quality basics in their wardrobe while renting special pieces to match. We aim to prove that sustainable consumption can be as varied as normal shopping. Perhaps even more diverse, as sustainable trends can be enjoyed alongside sustainable labels, too. Is fashion no longer a status symbol for Gen Z? We observe that owning fashion and its initial value are no longer the top priority; instead, it is all about experience, feeling, and the moment. You have established hubs in Berlin and Munich; places where people can meet and try on fashion together. Is this a concession that young people cannot be reached without stationary retail? We are currently testing these hubs, especially considering that exchange among the community and encounters have come up short in the last two years. But our focus remains our app, which already has 7,000 users in Germany and Austria. It will soon be launched in Switzerland, too. style in progress
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THE GROUND
“IT’S ABOUT COMMUNITY AND CULTURE” How do brands and retail concepts gain relevance for Gen Z? Kai Zollhöfer, Show Director at The Ground, provides answers. He and his team have developed The Ground, a platform that primarily addresses a younger target group, for Berlin-based Premium Group. The platform is, however, expected to shine beyond its target audience. Interview: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: The Ground
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ai, is there a single, ultimate solution to reach the younger generation? It’s all about community and culture. As a brand or retailer, it’s about reaching communities and building your own. The best way to accomplish this is to focus on themes. The Lululemon store, for example, offers yoga workshops from time to time. This opens up a number of expansion opportunities through topics such as wellbeing, mental health, nutrition, and meditation. Sports brands can gain traction through their lifestyle aspect, their values, and specific sports. This allows them to identify micro-communities they can serve perfectly. How does one achieve growth, gain reach? Gen Z is very well connected via social media channels. Everything on the internet and beyond happens incredibly fast and blows over just as quickly, as meme culture proves. A prominent example is Bernie Sanders at the inauguration of Joe Biden. Sanders became a meme and pop culture event by wearing knitted mittens. If a brand responds promptly to events and seizes the moment to engage in dialogue with its followers, it can increase its relevance – better than any lookbook in the world. Everybody wants to win over the young. But what does Gen Z want? Authenticity. They expect brands to fit into their environment, beyond the product itself. Even more so than two years ago, the young target group is looking for purpose. What does the brand advocate? What values does it have? Is it socially committed? What impact does it have on the environment, and how does it communicate that aspect? Young people immediately recognise greenwashing or pinkwashing. They won’t tolerate bullshit. However, it’s not about getting everything 100 percent right from the outset. A brand simply needs to be transparent in disclosing its development plans and goals. The Ground is essentially a platform aimed at Generation Z. How do you achieve the desired authenticity? By inviting the target group into my team. Our employees are part of the community and therefore understand much better how the space becomes interesting to young people than I, in my mid-40s, ever could. It makes no sense to impose things on them. The best option is to give them sufficient space to develop their own ideas. What can visitors expect? The emphasis is on having fun. Our audience is eager to finally meet up again in real life and connect with their favourite influencers, artists, and brands. The pandemic has prompted young people to discover creative hobbies such as pottery; digital is not the only world they are interested in. This offers brands plenty of opportunities to connect with fans and gain new admirers. We offer interactive brand pop-ups, beauty tutorials, and upcycling workshops, as well as excellent music and, of course,
exceptional food. Each of our core topics is co-hosted by influencers, which generates additional reach. We strive to create moments worth sharing. The main pillars of Premium Group have so far been brands from the conventional fashion world. How attractive is The Ground, where many D2C brands are present, for them? Very attractive, in fact. I don’t believe that simply displaying a product is in keeping with the times for any brand, because today’s trade fairs are different beasts. Communication is already deeply engrained in the core of B2C and D2C brands. As a brand, one needs to communicate firmly beyond the product. One needs to communicate directly with customers, gain one’s own followers, and activate them repeatedly. The Ground offers exactly this opportunity and – in the context of the trade fair – is also a performance show to demonstrate marketing strength and customer proximity to retail partners. This extreme focus on the customer was, by the way, my most valuable learning experience at Zalando. You basically grew up in your mother’s boutique and also know the retailer’s perspective from your time at P&C and Breuninger. How relevant is the stationary multi-label trade, especially for young people around the age of 25? They remain relevant, even for brands, as multi-label retailing creates completely different possibilities for establishing connections between brands and consumers. Over the last two years, many skilled retailers have learned to profit from the crisis by means of individualism and a curated assortment. They have immersed themselves in the realities of their customers. My mother has, too, focused 100 percent on her customers, which is the guiding principle of The Ground. Know your target group and accept that focus leads to certain things falling by the wayside. This increases relevance within the core target group, as a trade show, brand, or retailer.
Kai Zollhöfer developed The Ground platform for Berlin-based Premium Group. His background includes positions at P&C, Breuninger, and nine years at Zalando.
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TIKTOK
“WE ARE A PLATFORM FOR EVERYONE”
TikTok is undoubtedly the leading social media platform for 14 to 15-year-olds. What is the most effective approach for fashion brands to attract new fans on TikTok? In an interview with Stephan Huber and Nicoletta Schaper, Sahra Al-Dujaili, Brand Partnerships Lead Retail & QSR at TikTok, shares her firm opinion on the matter.
“Our mission is to foster the creativity of our users and create a place where they can express it,” says Sahra Al-Dujaili, Brand Partnerships Lead Retail & QSR TikTok.
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photo: TikTok
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ow does TikTok succeed in being relevant for fashion brands? TikTok is first and foremost an entertainment platform. Users flock to the platform with an inquisitive and open mindset; they want to be entertained and explore new things. This makes the platform the perfect playground for fashion! Here, brands meet an open, very fashion-savvy community that also enjoys actively participating in and helping to create trends on TikTok. The special aspect is diversity. Fashion is combined very individually, and body positivity also plays a significant role. What is unique about TikTok is precisely this wide range of topics that are embraced and brought to life. And it is a place for brands to enter into dialogue with the community. What is the best advertising format for which brands? That depends on the objectives. Our TikTok for Business tool allows brands to identify the creative stories they want to tell and establish how they can authentically connect with communities or reach new audiences. We have developed solutions that function across every touchpoint and enable storytelling. Ray Ban, for instance, called to action with a hashtag challenge, the launch of which was supported by popular creators. The brand followed it up with product tiles, for example with a collection ad, where users are redirected via an external link.
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How do brands maintain authenticity on the platform when their core target group is not Gen Z? While we offer access to new target groups that are difficult to reach on more traditional channels, our community is diverse – both in terms of age and content. Even brands that do not cater to Gen Z as their main target group can authentically leverage their DNA by entering into a dialogue with the community through their campaign. This opens doors for those who show humour and do not take themselves too seriously. Does direct-to-consumer marketing also work for small companies that run a local business? Yes, absolutely. A huge variety of small brands and start-ups are on TikTok, and we offer tailor-made solutions for SMEs. TikTok is a platform for everyone, for all businesses and industries. Unlike others, our platform works on the basis of a content graph, meaning anyone can gain wide reach immediately, regardless of how many followers they have. What matters is the content around which exchange takes place. The content is delivered based on relevance, which, in turn, is determined by the users. This is a highly individualised process.
D e d i c at ed t o o u r beau t ifu l S ist ers.
www. silk- sist ers.c o m
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Head Designer Stefanie Weissacher is the driving force behind the relaunch of Austrian brand Erdbär. Her objective: to be real.
ERDBÄR
Less frills, more commodity, and sportier: Erdbär has benefited stylistically from its D2C reorientation.
BE REAL
Sustainable fashion label Erdbär has undergone a post-pandemic relaunch. Sportier, more basic – more real, as Stefanie Weissacher, the architect of the brand’s renewed success, describes it. What is particularly remarkable: She is only 25 years old. Interview: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Erdbär
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tefanie, you used the pandemic to leave no stone unturned at Erdbär. What exactly has changed? In the four years leading up to the pandemic, we doubled our B2B sales every year and established a customer base across Europe. Growth is a constant test of endurance for the team, manufacturers, and the financing model. Consequently, the pandemic wind-down actually came at exactly the right time for us. We were forced to take stock of the last few years and ask ourselves what we intended to embody in the future. With a clear D2C approach, we returned to putting our consumers first, defined our online store as our primary channel, and not only redefined our style, but also completely restructured our communication. We are now in a position to convey significantly more emotion. That is a statement that very clearly indicates that you are from a different generation. Most of your B2B customers would presumably insist that this emotion is conveyed primarily at the point of sale, but you claim that Instagram, TikTok, and your own website are more effective.
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Please do not misunderstand, I am a huge fan of retail and practically grew up in our retail space in Europark. Yet the unfortunate truth is that brands often have no control over how enthusiastically their message is conveyed at the point of sale. Online, we can conceptualise and plan the message more effectively, and steer it in a direction that reflects our community. Community is a key factor in this context. How do you identify and develop it? It is a dialogue, a genuine interest in the people who follow Erdbär. We exchange ideas very proactively, we are tangible. The brand is real, we have a common vision that is created by the team and through constant exchange. In addition, we collaborate with individuals and brands whose communities match ours. These collaborations are particularly important, because communities already exist out there – but we have become much more selective when it comes to choosing our partners. To what extent does the exchange influence your style? I would say we have evolved in a more sporty and less complicated direction. I have spent a great deal of time thinking about the difference between a t-shirt you like and a t-shirt you buy and actually want to wear again the moment it comes out of the laundry. The goal must be to design clothes that you want and can wear every day!
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Specialist in fine fibres and knitwear for 55 years: Kangra.
Fully integrated production and decades of experience ensure the quality of Kangra.
KANGRA
UNA STORIA ITALIANA Italian cashmere brand Kangra harnesses 55 years of experience. Hailing directly from the very heart of the knitting nucleus in Reggio Emilia, the brand excels in the processing of particularly high-quality yarns. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Kangra
“I am relating the story of Kangra, a ‘Made in Italy’ success story shaped by people, their respective style, and the unrelenting quest to craft the finest knitwear,” is how charismatic Kangra founder Paolo Montermini tends to start his narrative. He has always outstripped others in terms of curiosity. In the 1980s, he was lured out into the world. Returning from a trip to Scotland with a complete set of 64 different coloured Shetland wool melange yarns revealed a whole new world to him. The vast majority of Italian producers in those days barely tapped into ten different
colours. His enthusiasm was kindled, and he wished to learn how to produce such variety in Italy as well. With this kind of motivation, it is hardly surprising that Montermini was also among the first to discover angora, and later cashmere and other exquisite fibres, and professionalise himself in this field. Until 2002, mind you, he operated purely as a private-label producer. BECOMING A BRAND
The introduction of an autonomous brand marked a turning point in the company’s history. The launch of Kangra not only signified a distinction from cheap production in low-wage countries, but also the beginning of a completely new journey. The road to the top was clearly charted, not least because conditions could not have been better. The arrival of Gionata Reverberi as partner and CEO allowed Kangra to secure access to the best cashmere sources. The brand was ready for growth. With several own stores in Italy,
as well as 500 and 100 points of sale in the domestic market and export markets respectively, Kangra is a diamond in the rough that now aspires to transform into a crown jewel. Reverberi explains: “We are investing heavily in the brand and distribution network to further strengthen the Kangra name. D-tails is our sales partner in the DACH region.” The USP is the brand’s unique expertise: Kangra manufactures fully integrated, not just cashmere but also wool and cotton yarns and silk in gauges ranging from 3 to 18. The superior 18-gauge cashmere quality is a real rarity, does not peel, and still remains reasonably priced. Kangra is also known for its structured knit and reliability. “We are committed to an efficient corporate culture that emphasises the human factor. Our relationships are solid, long-term, and loyal,” says Reverberi. Sales DACH: D-tails, www.d-tails.de
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“When we launched Penn & Ink N.Y, it was already my dream to own a store at this magical location, a former church in Arnhem,” says Mark de Lorme. “The fact that we are launching it at the end of June brings it full circle.”
Felice and Mark de Lorme are the dynamic duo responsible for Penn & Ink N.Y’s success.
PENN & INK N.Y
“WE ARE READY” Within twelve years, Felice and Mark de Lorme have led the Dutch brand to significant success. That they are now opening another store, located in a former church in Arnhem, almost holds symbolic value. After all, the fact that Penn & Ink N.Y is run by individuals who are retailers at heart is perhaps the brand’s greatest asset. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Penn & Ink N.Y
Standstill is a word that does not feature in his vocabulary. “We relocate our showroom every few years, always recreating the Penn & Ink N.Y world, because we strive to inspire. From coffee cups to fashion, the emotion conveyed by our brand has to be tangible throughout. We need to be clear about what we see in Penn & Ink N.Y,” says Mark de Lorme. In Holland and Belgium, Penn & Ink N.Y. not only delivers such coherent B2B experiences, but the brand also operates several stores – none of which, however, is run as a classic mono-brand concept. Since the de Lormes are retailers at heart, other brands complement and flank Penn & Ink N.Y in the stores in Breda, Den Bosch, Rotterdam, Antwerp, and, most recently, Arnhem. “Only a few labels, never more than five,” the entrepreneur emphasises. “If you buy very little of a brand, you might as well not do it at all. We buy in a volume that lends weight to our order and establishes a real business relationship for both sides. You do not need 20 different lookalikes of everything.” 174
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DESIGN ICONS
Every Penn & Ink N.Y collection strikes a balance between icons and innovation. “We design based on our own personal taste and have a good sense of what icons define our brand, what pieces women will want to buy from us repeatedly – albeit with small updates in colour or fit, of course,” explains Mark de Lorme. “Today’s customer demands practicality and comfort, even when dressing up for an occasion. We aim to create icons, to design pieces that you want to wear right away and, at the same time, are certain you can combine them wonderfully for many years to come.” In view of current price increases, this is a sensible course of action. “We are facing a cost increase of up to 20 percent in terms of raw materials and production, which inevitably results in higher prices for the end consumer. I hope that this development leads to clothing regaining a greater value. It would be great to return to buying something with the idea that your children might steal it out of your wardrobe in a few years’ time because they want to wear it. This is how it is supposed to be, is it not? Maybe this environment will force us to finally commit to the much-needed shift towards more sustainability, less seasonality, and fewer pieces – we are so ready for that.”
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Renato Curzi, founder of Vic Matié, has been the soul of the brand for 40 years.
VIC MATIÉ
Vic Matié embodies contemporary shoe fashion.
CONTINUITY AND ZEITGEIST Vic Matié has been among Italy’s most influential shoe and accessory manufacturers since the late 1980s. The company is committed to producing exclusively “Made in Italy” along the entire supply chain. Coinciding with the arrival of the next generation, various adjustments have been made. In partnership with his daughters, founder Renato Curzi is building on previous accomplishments. The DACH region also benefits from the brand’s resurgence. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Vic Matié
Mr Curzi, Vic Matié is performing tremendously in German-speaking territories. Shall we talk numbers? Renato Curzi, founder of Vic Matié: The DACH region has always been a very significant market for us. At present, we are, in fact, recording the best sales figures in years. The sell-out figures are unbelievable. We are registering around 50 percent growth
compared to 2021. We currently supply 160 stores and aim to increase this number to 250 in a sustainable and strategic manner, in cooperation with the right partners such as high-end, multi-brand, and department stores. The fact that we started delivering the autumn collection in June is, of course, conducive to this approach. Can this success be attributed to your rebranding and repositioning strategy? How much impact has the arrival of a new generation had on the process? I would not call it a rebranding, because the core of the brand, its values and mission, have always remained the same. Naturally, the products and collections have evolved. We implemented our repositioning with utmost respect for the partners who helped establish Vic Matié in the DACH region. The task of the next generation, as I understand it, is to combine a contemporary vision with the know-how of our “Made in Italy” structures. I also admire the digital tools that
connect us more directly with customers, be it B2B or B2C. Yet these are not the only areas in which we have attracted young talent. What makes me especially proud is that we are also an attractive option for the next generation in terms of production. This is enormously important for advancing Italian shoe craftsmanship into the future. What are your expectations for the season? We expect the sell-in in the DACH region to increase further. We are forming new strategic partnerships and strive to gain visibility for the brand in retail. In terms of B2B presence, we plan to attend events such as Premium Berlin and Shoes Düsseldorf. In our showrooms in Milan, we welcome customers from all over the world and are delighted that the pandemic-related restrictions are behind us for now. The collection shows how agile we have become. Alongside continuity, being fashionable and innovative remains essential. style in progress
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War, inflation, shortages - as the children of prosperity and peace, we have never really experienced this scenario. The principle of permanent growth is reaching its limits. The clock is ticking. We urgently require new answers to the most fundamental questions today, not tomorrow. What helps? Transformation in all areas, the courage to be radical, and to break free from old patterns. style in progress
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FLAVOUR ENHANCER
Influencers, creators, YouTubers, TikTokers – they have come to stay. They are, however, changing roles more and more frequently. They are no longer mere consumers and recipients, but rather the actual masterminds behind particularly high-impact campaigns. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Illustration: iStock/Igor Levin
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e it Brianboy’s brilliant move to blend Fendi and Versace into Fendace, Kim Kardashian’s symbiosis with Balenciaga, or even a simple local micro-influencer promoting the store around the corner. Our public sphere is shaped by a wave of co-creativity. This ultimately results in a breakdown of old power structures. Brand here, press there, consumers everywhere – this particular approach is now merely one of many ways to generate awareness and desirability. We live in a time when everyone has a voice and the potential to be heard. In this era, the art of managing a brand has taken on entirely new dimensions. The journey from awareness to purchase is a long one that needs to be accompanied by subtle strategies. The creator economy plays a pivotal role in the process. The first gold rush is over, the wheat has separated from the chaff, and professionalisation is progressing fast. So, in the end, the same old questions arise again: Who wants to advertise what and how much money are they willing to pay? When 37 percent of Germans between ages 18 and 26 state that they readily follow buying recommendations from influencers who test and review products, this confers enormous power on the approximated 50 million creators worldwide. An estimated 90 million US Dollars in revenue is generated by the global creator economy’s ability to turn mentions into measurable leads and sales. The fact that many KPIs in collaboration with dig-
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ital influencers are measurable has made them the darling of a new generation of marketing executives. This does not bypass even those who are primarily designated as consumers: 35 percent of young people, according to a study conducted by Bitkom Research, would love to be an influencer themselves. More than half of the survey participants, specifically 56 percent, are sure that being an influencer is a bona fide profession. This means the new generation has a much more realistic perception of the commitment required behind the job description. Hence, they are well ahead of those who still make the mistake of labelling the work of creators as superficial, insignificant, or of lesser value.
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Seasonless, made of deadstock fabrics, and in limited drops: Viky Rader Studio, the fashion label of Viky Rader (3rd from left).
“WE BEAR RESPONSIBILITY” Viky Rader, aka vikyandthekid, is among the top talents on Instagram. In an interview with Stephan Huber, she discusses emotion, responsibility, and creativity, as well as the rollout of her brand Viky Rader Studio and why stationary retail plays a key role in the process. Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: Viky Rader Studio, vikyandthekid
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any people, even in the fashion industry, find it difficult to comprehend what someone like Viky Rader actually does - and, crucially, do not appreciate that it is entrepreneurship at its purest. How would you describe yourself? The term entrepreneur sums me up perfectly. Not acknowledging the work of a content creator is a very central European problem; people in other countries are more progressive in this respect. I only moved to Germany twelve years ago. I was born in Ukraine. I have worked as an international model, a freelance stylist, and a personal stylist. However, it was important to gain a solid foundation, so I studied marketing. But that did not excite me as much as fashion and haute couture. This world – with its great creations and values – conveys so much emotion. I have always been fascinated by it. I used to draw sketches and designs for myself all the time. When I was 25, I enrolled at St. Martin’s School in London and even then, it became clear to me that, if you want to be successful in the future, you need to reach your customers on the screens of their mobile phones. You already gave that thought back then? Yes. Crazy, is it not? Germany was not ready for that kind of approach yet. In 2011, I debuted my own fashion label for the first time: 10 pieces, all made of leather. The agency did a great job marketing it, but I was too young and wanted too much too fast. Instead of remaining small, I suddenly focussed on super-exclusive couture. Unfortunately, that step was not strategically sound enough at that particular moment, but it was a mistake that taught me many lessons. I then started getting involved with Instagram. From 2014 onwards, it slowly became apparent that this platform could be developed into a business model. Like many others, I started with a classic blog, an Instagram account, and some YouTube content. In 2015, when my son turned one, I said to myself: I could scale this up a little and be more professional. The name Vikyandthekid was pure coincidence. When did you realise that this could turn into something big? I became more involved with every passing month; it really drew me in. And at some point, it clicked: I suddenly knew I really wanted to give this a go. I was fully aware that I had to enter the international arena, that I had to get out and about, and that I wanted everything to be super professional. Anything you take too lightly never amounts to much, not even in a creative environment. I always think big. Yet I am creative, which also means chaotic at times. I have thousands of ideas, and someone has to structure them a little. It is fortunate that I have such a great team. Because very few people – even today – have understood that this is a completely new type or era of communication. Yes, and it took time to achieve success. I invested an incredible amount of time and energy for three years, and I also ran another company, Glamometer, on top of that. My husband always said that he hopes my hard work pays off. Today, it does: all the time I invested in networking at visiting fashion events. It was always important to me that I deliver professionally and continually improve on that.
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Does the reach you have today also entail responsibility? Definitely! The term influencer, as harsh as it may sound, entails influencing others. It is not like we just hold some random bottle of juice into the camera and collect loads of money for doing so. An entire team is involved in developing the strategy, shoots, campaigns, budgets, hashtags, and a precise launch plan. It is enormously powerful, but obviously difficult to explain to those who only see the finished product. You are the brand that you carry with you all the time. I am very careful about what I show, how I “influence”, and even I have things I refuse to show. Is choosing cooperation partners so crucial because of the close relationship you have with your followers? Yes, credibility is the most important currency. The game has some fundamental rules. We highlight the latest trends, so I always have to be up-to-date. And we choose brands that suit me – authentic integration is extremely important to me. Of course, we make sure to do justice to the brand essence and values, and to communicate them emotionally in our storytelling. For you personally, being authentic also meant speaking out politically for the first time in March, talking about your roots, and using your reach for aid projects... Opening up like that was a very difficult decision, but I think it has given me a whole new meaning as a public figure. I was able to use my visibility to help Ukraine. Precisely because fashion can also be superficial, it was always difficult to assess who Viky really is as a person. Now people definitely know more about me. I am so deeply affected by the war that I cannot simply sit back and watch. That is why we immediately organised help, set up charity projects, and arranged accommodation for Ukrainian refugees in Munich. I also set up my own foundation called VR-together. Helping in this situation is genuinely close to my heart. Is it important to display emotion? Many decisions are based on my gut. At the beginning of the corona pandemic, I quickly realised that I no longer wanted to wear so many logos. I wanted a different, timeless style – not so showy. Fashion had really become too inflated before that, it was all very crazy, loud, and colourful. It had very little to do with what women really wished to wear. These instinctive decisions, as well as showing emotions, are important. After all, my followers identify with me as a person and share a part of my life. This is an issue that you no longer simply address as an ambassador or co-designer for other brands, but also with your own label: Viky Rader Studio. What you have built up over the last few years is a perfect vehicle to position yourself in the market in a contemporary way. You need to get back up and build something anew after every crisis. Sure, the time in the cosy hoodies and sweats was nice, and I enjoyed it. It was a nice change from the crazy pace and all the travelling. We were always on the road: events here, Fashion Week there - and I was so terrible at saying no. But then during the pandemic, a lot of women lost their sense of what it means to be beautiful, to dress up, or to apply make-up. I thought about everything for a while, went to my wardrobe, and suddenly it hit me: I have hundreds of blazers and I love them. I adore suits, but no brand really style in progress
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specialises in them. My appetite for risk was back when I, in the midst of the pandemic, declared that we were launching Viky Rader Studio with blazers and trouser suits. People called me crazy. But I was sure the glitz and glamour would return to fashion and against all odds – the launch happened during the time of corona restrictions, and I had just given birth to my daughter – we did it. We meticulously planned what we wanted to communicate, as it was important to us to explain the idea behind it. We filmed in Portugal and showed the people who create Viky Rader Studio. We explained that everything is limited, that we work with deadstock garments and vintage fabrics, that we pay attention to water consumption and transport routes... However, I wanted to avoid using the word sustainability, because I think it is about more than that. It is about how we want to structure our economy in the future. The pandemic has brought about a major change in attitude – and it had to, because the conditions we had before were no longer acceptable. 182
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Figuratively speaking too, yes. Fashion often overwhelmed me. It was too much, too crazy, and too much love: pre, main, and resort, with special drops on top of all that. Viky Rader Studio has a clear focus on purpose. We do not do discount sales, as we offer timeless pieces. I studied my entire archive and reinterpreted a lot of iconic styles from the 1980s and 1990s. I thought about that era in detail and even though it was crazy, there was none of the trash that exists today. We content creators and brands have a responsibility to return to this kind of appreciation of clothing, because consumers listen to us. I myself know all too well that something I wear will be in demand in stores tomorrow. So, it is essential that I think about what I present and show – and now produce. Viky Rader Studio is essentially a total look... Yes, but I refuse to create certain garments such as skirts or dresses, for example. That is not my thing. What is important are styles that I love and wear myself. That is why basics like coats, blazers, trousers, and t-shirts, as well as blue socks, were so dear to me. Are there seasons? No, only two drops. No one looks at their wardrobe anymore and chooses an item of clothing because it is spring. I firmly believe that our brand needs to deliver what it promises, which is why we manufacture in Europe. Is the brand promoted exclusively through your own channels? No, naturally we market our fashion on all channels: online and in cooperation with stores like Lodenfrey am Dom, a dear, long-standing partner of ours. I feel it is crucial that Viky Rader Studio is not only seen on me. We have created fantastic campaigns and seed the pieces among my fellow influencers all over the world, including in the US and Australia. Our approach has been global from the offset. In other words, it is not an online-only business? Right from the start, it was a priority of mine to find exclusive partners, as in real stores. Because I too, no matter how much I order online, am always thrilled by in-store experiences. They correspond to our human psychology. It makes us happy to be welcomed or recognised, to feel the quality of the fabrics, to try on clothing, or to combine pieces.
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WHAT'S THE STORY
Much more of a co-creator than “just” an influencer: Viky Rader has found a mouthpiece for her creativity in her Instagram account vikyandthekid.
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Magari International manages and advises international personalities such as Anna and Robert Lewandowski, Masha Efrosinina, Viky Rader, and Jennifer Knäble. At Magari Mediahouse, Magari bundles cross-media brand consulting and the development of strategic and creative concepts.
“INFLUENCERS ARE THE NEW VOGUE” Through Magari International, Daniela Giller not only specialises in the management of celebrities, but she also heads a team of experts who develop 360° concepts and high-quality collaborations between creators and brands. She mediates, networks, and tells why her fashion and publishing experience are so crucial. Text: Nora Hahneder. Photos: Magari International
If one were to define your greatest skill, it would be to generate content that blends natively into the storytelling of your talents and brands. Influencers have become the new Vogue for good reason. If a woman wants to know what she should wear, she turns to Instagram and looks at people like Viky Rader, Nina Suess, or other international examples with whom followers often identify on a very 184
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personal level. It is correct that absolutely nothing is left to chance, as all these creators are extremely professional. Partnerships, shootings, and campaigns are planned at least as elaborately as they used to be for glossy magazines – with aesthetic and high-quality image material, of course. There is a reason why these individuals are sitting in the front row of international designer shows. Why is a strategic approach advisable? Because you first need to identify what you want: reach, image, or concrete action, i.e. sales? To this end, it is important to understand the influencers and their target group, and to involve them in the process. They know exactly what resonates with their followers. Imagery and environment should also complement the product. There is a perfect influencer for every strategy; simply picking anyone does not necessarily yield the desired result. We generally recommend against that approach in order to protect our talents. Their authenticity is our top priority. This includes being selective and collaborating with many brands on a long-term basis, establishing a relationship of trust. Can you elaborate by means of a concrete example? We developed a Cambio capsule collection in collaboration with Viky Rader. Cambio is traditionally a hidden champion within the product ranges of many high-end retailers. With Viky Rader as designer, we succeeded in imbuing the product with the corresponding high-end appeal. Viky’s collection is based on values that they both share: authenticity and a sense of responsibility for the environment. The capsule is underscored with a suitable storytelling strategy: a premium product whose entire process from design to launch is depicted in high-quality photo and video sequences. And? Needless to say, it works. The Viky Rader x Cambio trousers have generated high demand online and increased customer frequency in stores. This is partly due to the charisma of Viky Rader, and partly the sum of all the little levers that you tweak in the run-up to the launch, which in the end results in a comprehensive cooperation across all channels: attracting the right retail partners for the launch, as well as the seeding and visibility of the brand, especially in terms of other high-end influencers. We focused on high-quality packaging and the right selection of the Viky x Cambio squad. When the product is shown on social media at the same time, it has a powerful effect that increases awareness and image. Especially when, as in the case of Cambio, trade press, advertisements, and retail activities flank the campaign.
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ARIANNA ALESSI
“A COMPANY IS JUDGED BY ITS VALUES”
Committed to social responsibility and sustainability: Arianna Alessi is Vice President of the OTB Foundation, CEO of Diesel Farms, and CEO of Red Circle Investments.
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Arianna Alessi, a power woman par excellence, is committed to a more sustainable future in several capacities, including the OTB Group’s charitable OTB Foundation and Red Circle Investments. To her and her husband Renzo Rosso, doing good is not a hobby, but an indispensable aspect of business. In this interview, the manager and philanthropist speaks with Nicoletta Schaper and Stephan Huber about the change in values that companies should represent today. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: OTB Foundation, Red Circle Investments
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ore than ever, brands and companies are required to communicate with their target group at eye level and remain authentic. How exactly does one do that? Renzo Rosso’s vision is at the core of all the fields in which I engage. We are dealing with a person who is thoroughly honest and authentic, and for whom it is important to communicate truthfully. This is reflected in all our investments. They reflect the values that are dear to Renzo. Renzo once told me in an interview that someday the time will come to give back to society. Is that the underlying idea behind all your investments, to back business ideas that can improve on things? Renzo has always supported young talent. He is no newcomer to investing in emerging businesses and giving back comes naturally to him. Every project undertaken by OTB Group and every charity initiative we organise aims to make people’s lives better. We believe that a profitable company and a non-profit company are the same, and the employees of the OTB Foundation are funded by OTB Group. The foundation is run like a business unit of our company, with the vision of bringing about a better future. There is no difference between business and charity. It is the same for Renzo. Looking at your investments, one notices that they are interdisciplinary. You invest in start-ups from the food, agriculture, and healthcare sectors. What they all have in common is that they serve a purpose and are highly future-oriented. How do you go about selecting targets? Everything initially hinges on the company displaying the correct values. We identify start-ups that ultimately aim to help people in all manner of areas, be it surgical methods that minimise the impact on the body, or the Italian healthcare system, which is massively overstretched by the pandemic. With Red Care Home Health Assistance, for example, we champion the idea of treating people at home.
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The fashion industry remains one of the most polluting industries. Is that one of the reasons why you invest heavily in start-ups developing environmentally friendly solutions, which, in turn, contribute to the sustainability of your own fashion brands? Absolutely. I know that OTB Group is working on multiple projects to improve environmental sustainability and social working conditions, even at our suppliers. Diesel presented its sustainability manifesto at the Milan Fashion Week in January 2020 and then sent its top managers to attend a training course at Bocconi University to learn what sustainability truly means. This is one aspect of OTB Group’s sustainability programme. As for Red Circle, Renzo’s private investment company, one of our most recent investments is in Planet Farms, a company which enables vertical, sustainable farming. This is precisely the kind of thing we need to invest in moving forward! There is an immediate need for innovations that enable farming land without chemicals. Generally speaking, the trend in recent years was to invest in start-ups that had the potential to become the next unicorn. The focus was not on how responsibly the company acts with regard to the future. Is this a new concept of ethical investment? Actually, Red Circle Investments invested in two Italian companies that later became real unicorns: Yoox and Depop. Yet we are not a classic private equity fund; we follow a completely different logic. We commit to long-term investments in projects and remain involved to build a better future together. If an investment actually develops into a unicorn, fair enough. But the motivation and core values are completely different and should generally form the guiding principle for all future investments. The OTB Foundation was, in fact, the first Italian fashion organisation to help the people in Ukraine with donations. The UN Refugee Agency called us four days after the war began, asking how one could best support the refugees. Other Italian fashion brands followed our lead shortly thereafter. This is how we define authenticity. Everything one does should be authentic and transparent. It is better to act quickly than to deliberate too long. Which brings us to the topic of female empowerment, which is also a matter close to your heart. This is indeed a topic close to my heart. I grew up as the daughter of a businessman with four brothers and a sister. My grandfather was a patriarch and refused to accept women in management, including me. After graduating, I started working for Interbanca, a commercial bank, in several branches stretching from style in progress
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Planet Farms’ vertical farming system facilitates the sustainable cultivation of vegetables. The vertical farm in Cavenago is one of the largest in the world and produces leaf lettuce and herbs using 95 percent less water – without the use of chemicals.
The Only the Brave Chiama Alice project, developed in collaboration between OTB Group and the Alice Onlus Association, aims to address the significant increase in anxiety and depression among young people.
Milan to London. Later, I launched my own consultancy firm advising family businesses. Today, I am thankful to my family that their decision helped me get to where I am now! Given that I am responsible for scouting and strategic investments at Red Circle Investments, my cousins now call me when they require advice. Women are multitasking talents. They have the ability to organise themselves and others well while remaining empathic. These qualities benefit any company. This year, we are launching a project to provide MBA scholarships for women in partnership with Bocconi University, with the goal of helping them occupy senior positions in public administration and large companies. A modern woman should be able to work and have childcare nearby, so that she can visit her child during lunch break. That is what I understand as intelligent working. Is it a matter of creating a female environment in a work environment dominated by men? I believe that both belong together as equals. We want to afford men and women equal opportunities, not least in the application process. We are not interested in the nerds who are the best in the world at what they do, but in those who really want to make a difference, which are often women. That is why we have introduced mentoring programmes as part of our Bocconi scholarships. Women account for the majority of employees in the fashion industry, but they still rarely attain management positions. OTB Group maintains 188
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an above-average percentage of women in middle and senior management. That is something we are very proud of. What can we expect from Arianna Alessi in the near future? I want to make a difference in everything I undertake. We will continue to invest in the future, in a wide variety of fields. I firmly believe that the future holds success for those companies that act responsibly and strive to have a positive impact on the world. That is our motivation, as there is no plan B for our planet.
OTB Group comprises, among others, fashion brands such as Diesel, Jil Sander, Maison Margiela, Marni, and Viktor&Rolf. The OTB Foundation is a non-profit organisation within the group. Red Circle Investments serves as Renzo Rosso’s private interdisciplinary investment firm for sustainable future technologies and start-ups such as Bending Spoons, Noosa, Cortilia, Planet Farms, and Red Care Home Health Assistance.
THE FUTURE IS WIDE OPEN! ...AND THE STYLE IN PROGRESS NEWSLETTER IS A SMART GUIDE TO GET THERE.
www.style-in-progress.com
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CHAIN REACTION To some extent, one had the impression that Italians perceived the protection of their homeland as Europe’s number one production country as somewhat of a marketing task. Yet the picture that was painted does not always reflect reality. Yes, Italy swarms with artigiani, but that is only one side of the coin. Illegal workers, sweatshops, and ports dominated by mafia structures - which are often no longer in Italian ownership - harbour ships that haul containers of cheap goods and counterfeit products to Europe. When Italy now prepares to become a pioneer for sustainability, equality, and circularity within the framework of the European Green Deal, it is doing so in order to save itself. For it is clear that Italy can no longer win the battle for the best price. But it can still win the battle for the best product. Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Illustration: AdobeStock/fran_kie. Photos: Interviewees
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he EU is one of the major consumers of textiles and therefore also one of the major polluters: 5.8 million tonnes of textile waste are thrown away every year, which amounts to 11kg per person. This places the EU fourth in the world in terms of negative impact on the environment and climate change. To counteract this ecological disaster, the EU Commission has presented a new document, the “EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles”, as part of the European Green Deal. In addition to binding requirements such as transparency regarding origin, production methods, and materials, the main aim is to put a stop to greenwashing. Brands can only claim to offer so-called green products if they can scientifically prove their sustainability, and they must also detail how long their clothing lasts. Beyond that, sustainability must also entail social justice. Products manufactured under conditions that violate human rights are not admissible on the EU market. So, where does Italy stand? The Ministry for Ecological Change was created in 2021. The national stimulus package (Piano Nazionale di Ripresa e Resilienza) envisages an ambitious reform agenda totalling around 230 billion Euros, of which about 70 billion Euros are earmarked for the green revolution. Yet Made in Italy is already far more environmentally conscious than it used to be. Over the last five years, more than 440,000 Italian companies, or about one in three, have invested in environmentally friendly products and technologies, particularly in energy efficiency, renewable energy, the reduction of water consumption, and the prevention of waste and pollutant output. The attention to productivity and resource management is also reflected in recycling capacities: Italy boasts the highest waste recycling rate in Europe and is at the forefront of promoting a circular economy.
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Duno
“WE NEED INCENTIVES AND FUNDS FOR RESEARCH AND INNOVATION”
By using ecological materials in its capsule collections, Duno has started to go green under CEO Chris Wang.
GENUINE “MADE IN ITALY” EQUALS LUXURY
Chris, Duno is an Italian company, yet it manufactures in China. Why? Chris Wang, CEO Duno: Yes, Duno is an Italian label that has chosen to manufacture in China because we own a family business there. Our production facility has been in operation for 30 years and consequently possesses incredible outerwear know-how. We pair high quality with original Italian design and the best fabrics. Our collections are the result of this powerful blend. Does the European Commission’s move towards an even greener economy scare you or does it spur you on? No, it does not scare me. We have been gradually becoming greener for a few years now, launching capsules with environmentally friendly materials. This, in turn, makes our main collection more sustainable. We understand the importance of this transition and are investing in accelerating these processes. What do you think Italian politics can do to support this transition? Politics in general should support companies that follow an environmentally friendly path by providing them with incentives and funds for research and innovation.
Alessandro Hong, owner of Distretto 12 “First of all, I believe it is important to define real ‘Made in Italy’. Nowadays it is often used as a phrase that does not reflect what I understand by ‘Made in Italy’. A product should not solely be defined by its origin, but also by how and by whom it is manufactured. To me, ‘Made in Italy’ means that the whole supply chain is Italian, that the material is sourced here and is processed equitably. Know-how also plays an important role, as extensive experience has its price. This leads us, however, to the crucial question: How is all this – and what the EU Commission is considering – supposed to be possible at competitive prices? Currently, this amounts to pure idealism and has little bearing on reality. What we need, therefore, is relevant tax relief for the companies that comply with the above-mentioned processes. Only then is genuine ‘Made in Italy’ no longer only possible in the luxury segment.”
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AGAINST THE TIDE
Fiorella Ghignone, CEO at Liapull/Avant Toi “We are a company that has always attached great importance to artigianalità (craftsmanship), and these values are firmly anchored in our DNA. For us, the term ‘Made in Italy’ has never been a question of marketing. We swam against the tide years ago. We did not relocate our production, but we used local labour and invested in training and technology. This is the only way to provide a luxury product that aims for quality, as well as fair and respectful treatment of people and nature. Our philosophy has always been to invest in what is real and tangible, and today, with the advent of new generations, we hope even more that the ecological change we are experiencing will restore the 'Made in Itay' seal as a real guarantor of these values.”
“THE GLOBAL COMPETITIVENESS OF ITALY IS IN DANGER” What impact do the new EU Commission requirements have on the Italian market and on products “Made in Italy”? Are they an opportunity to revitalise national supply chains or rather a new obstacle? How is Candiani Denim experiencing this moment of major transformation? Alberto Candiani, Global Manager of Candiani Denim: It presents a great opportunity for Italy. Many textile companies have specialised in real sustainable innovations and anticipate the needs of circular fashion, which is talked about so much today and is now finally being legislated. The real problem is that some links, or even entire supply chains, have disappeared. So, we have an Italy where there are excellent companies capable of delivering innovative and even revolutionary textiles, but also supply chains that, due to unsustainable costs in our country, have focused almost exclusively on luxury and thus lost global competitiveness. How would you describe your role in the shift towards more circularity in fashion? In 2018, Candiani partnered with the UNECE as an expert advisor to define the guidelines for transparency and traceability in the apparel and footwear industry. We decided early, and of our own accord, to invest in environmentally friendly products and technologies, and to revolutionise the denim process. The prime example is certainly our patented COREVA technology, a denim stretch fabric with an additive of natural origin that is completely biodegradable and compostable. This is the exact opposite of fabrics stretched with perobased materials that take dozens, if not hundreds, of years to degrade. What is your benchmark for sustainable products today? The aim is to develop products that do not cause ecological problems at the end of their life cycle. COREVA materials are highly recyclable, and their waste can easily be converted into organic fertiliser. This can be reused to grow cotton, for example, in a regenerative circular economy model.
Alberto Candiani, Global Manager of Candiani Denim, is convinced that the aim needs to be to develop products that do not cause ecological problems at the end of their life cycle.
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The shawls by Pin 1876 are exclusively manufactured sustainably in Italy.
Alberto Zia, Managing Director of Pin 1876.
Pin 1876
“BOUNDARIES INVIGORATE CREATIVITY” Ever since its foundation, Pin 1876’s shawl collections have been produced 100 percent in Italy and in a sustainable manner. Here, “Made in Italy” is not a marketing strategy but a fundamental value, rendering the company a flagship of European technological and green innovation.
Alberto, is it time to develop a genuine lobby for Made in Italy and thus also a counter-lobby to Fast Fashion? Could this help to comply with the new requirements of the EU Commission and at the same time accelerate the shift to a greener and fairer economy, both as a country and as an economy? Alberto Zia, Managing Director of Pin 1876: I believe that we should not push for a counter-lobby, but for a pro-lobby, i.e. the promotion (and therefore control) of a supply chain that keeps manufacturing in Italy as far as possible, following the strict rules of 'Made in Itay' imposed by the European Union. Those who succeed in offering a sound quality product automatically position themselves outside the logic of mass production and of those for whom sustainability only serves as greenwashing for marketing purposes. How difficult is it to produce a truly sustainable product 'Made in Itay'? 194
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For a company like ours, which has always created and manufactured in Italy, it is not at all difficult. Botto Giuseppe di Valdilana and recently acquired Cascami Seta di Tarcento have been closely linked to its surroundings, i.e. the social fabric and the environment, since their foundation. This indissoluble bond makes it difficult to do anything else, i.e. to relocate production or even think of carelessly polluting one’s own soil. Similarly, self-supply of electricity through one’s own hydropower plants is not a marketing measure, but a natural response to the energy needs of a local business. How can one be green and fair without losing the flair and creativity that characterise Italian design? Due to their history and nature, Italians have always made a virtue out of necessity. A country deeply impoverished by two world wars fought on its own territory has found ways to use the scarce resources at its disposal to create unique excellence, from cuisine to design. The boundaries are what invigorate creativity by means of knowledge and imagination.
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Pitti Immagine
“CIRCULAR FASHION IS A NEW BEGINNING” What are the implications of these new European approaches for the Italian market and for products “Made in Italy”? Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine: It definitely constitutes an opportunity for the Italian market. Whether it is tanning, weaving, spinning, or textile manufacturing, we have seen incredible development in all businesses over the last few years. There is still a lot to do, but a lot has already been achieved. The green and fair approach to manufacturing has become a priority – not only for marketing purposes, but also because younger consumers are willing to pay more for sustainably manufactured products. Transparency and counterfeit protection are a huge issue. We are working hard to create and promote the so-called product passport. This is intended to benefit exports and end consumers alike, giving the latter the ability to buy excellent products that can be resold at a later date. Resale and second-hand are gaining in importance, with global trade volumes having already risen to over 80 billion. Every modern brand needs to address this issue, because it is no longer just the first movers who are moving into these markets. So, if we invest in the authentication of products, the secondary market becomes controllable as well. But that is only one aspect of circular fashion. I feel it is a great opportunity to grow and start anew. It is one of the most accessible facets of today’s market and already underway.
“SENSITISING THE CUSTOMER”
Simona Clemenza, CEO of Aspesi “When it comes to creating a strong counterweight against the polluters in fashion, I do not think lobbying helps. I believe terms like system or community fare better in this context. We at Aspesi have been actively involved in this dialogue in recent years, for example in the Camera Nazionale della Moda, within the framework of the Women’s Empowerment Principles, and the United Nations Global Compact. These talks, analyses, and resolutions have resulted in the new legislative framework. I believe it is important that our customers are aware of how active we are in shaping the future, because fairness and the environment are important to modern consumers. So, we need to sensitise the customer.”
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Future for Fashion debuted in 2022 as a conference format bringing together the major players of the Italian fashion industry.
Confindustria Firenze
“MADE IN ITALY GUARANTEES A SECURE FUTURE” Niccolò Moschini has been vice-president of Confindustria Firenze since 2020 and is, among other duties, the “Made in Italy” representative. At the end of March 2022, the association, together with the City of Florence and the Centro Firenze per la Moda Italiana, organised the first Future For Fashion conference, bringing together all the big names in Italian fashion. A conversation about the future and cohesion.
Mr Moschini, how important is it to form a strong network with events like Future for Fashion? Dialogue is essential for breaking new ground together. In 2021, fashion companies in Florence exported products worth over 9 billion Euros, which is more than 50 percent of the total added value of our metropolitan region. We have succeeded in increasing sales by 7 percent compared to pre-pandemic levels. The secret lies in our entrepreneurial heritage, in the 7,000 production sites that make Florence one of the most important luxury industry hubs in Europe. This supply chain unites big brands and SMEs and covers all stages of production. And it is precisely these people who exchange ideas at Future for 196
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Fashion, be it on design or on key figures. A tradition that we want to continue annually from now on. Is true 'Made in Itay' only feasible in the luxury segment? I would not draw the conclusion that 'Made in Itay' is always luxury, in the sense of expensive. For me, 'Made in Itay' stands for quality and eccellenza, for characteristics that express a certain value. Perhaps the equation 'Made in Itay'equals value would be more accurate. Valuable things have their price. High-quality 'Made in Itay' guarantees a secure future, and that is what the figures confirm. Therefore, we must avoid allowing 'Made in Itay' to become depleted. Speaking of which, will there be enough young people who want to work in fashion in the future? I am not worried about that in our region. After all, human capital and the resulting know-how is the secret of this Silicon Valley of Fashion. The 39,000 workers in this sector combine craftsmanship, skill, and innovation. Our schools and training centres are internationally acclaimed, just think of Polimoda, for example. That is why 'Made in Itay' will never die out.
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Yes, the brand started with belts, but Orciani’s current product range offers so much more: bags and small leather goods at a premium price point, 100 percent “Made in Italy”.
Claudia Orciani is convinced that it is possible to produce bags, belts, and accessories in Italy while still maintaining a healthy price-performance ratio.
ORCIANI
“PRICE AND PERFORMANCE MUST REMAIN IN BALANCE” More than 40 years of family tradition – what started with belts has grown into a premium supplier of bags, accessories, and small leather goods. Orciani, a family-run brand from Italy, now intends to focus on strengthening the German-speaking market. A conversation with Chairwoman Claudia Orciani about excellence and quality. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Orciani
Claudia, Orciani has always been synonymous with genuine “Made in Italy”. Your leather goods and accessories are handcrafted, with a great deal of passion and masterful skill. How much effort does it take to maintain these short, fair production chains while preventing prices from spiralling out of control? That is indeed a permanent challenge. We have acquired know-how over four decades
and are known for delivering excellence in our price range and segment. We primarily invest in the efficiency of our production – that is the one screw you can turn without having to compromise on quality. At the end of the day, quality is sacred to us. What distinguishes you from other “Made in Italy” brands? Two things: on the one hand, we do not believe that all-Italian production is an excuse to market our products at fantasy prices. We believe it is crucial that price and performance remain in balance. We appeal to exactly these customers – elegant, refined women with character who love fashion and style but are still grounded. They enjoy treating themselves to a new bag, but they know that it should not cost the price of a small
car. The second aspect is that we manufacture where the specialists reside. Our production is located in the Marche region, where you can find the best craftsmen in our profession. Which export markets does Orciani currently focus on? The German-speaking market is very important to us, as we still harbour great potential there. For many, we are still firmly entrenched in the “great belts” drawer. The current geopolitical situation requires considerable flexibility from our export teams, but the Middle East, for example, holds great potential. It is important to us that we always approach our internationalisation in collaboration with our local retail partners. I cannot imagine any better ambassadors for our brand. style in progress
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Otto d'Ame has its headquarters in Signa near Florence.
The “Made in Italy” collections by Otto D’Ame are no longer an insider tip in Germany.
OTTO D’AME
“IT IS A CULTURAL ASSET” Niccolò Frosini is one of three managing directors of H.Eich srl, the parent company of the Otto D’Ame brand. style in progress visited the company in Signa near Florence. A field trip that once again illustrates how important concise and regional structures are for Italian creativity. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Otto D’Ame
Niccolò, your label turns 20 years old next year. How much has your supply chain changed over the years? When we started in 2003, a short and fair supply chain was our credo and that has never changed. We manufacture almost 90 percent of our collections in the immediate vicinity and exclusively in Tuscany. However, it is becoming increasingly difficult to implement this principle. Many textile companies in the Prato district relocated their pro198
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duction abroad in the late 1990s and early 2000s. The decline in demand resulted in the remaining production facilities becoming increasingly expensive. Identifying and retaining competent terzisti and production partners is the challenge of our time, especially after the last two years. How intense is the pressure to relocate production yourself – or at least parts of it? Sure, that would be easier and more profitable, but certainly not better. That is not who we are. We strive to sell excellent quality from a healthy supply chain – genuine 'Made in Itay' is simply something else altogether. One recognises quality, as it has soul. The end consumers, I am sure, appreciate that. Even if we Italians certainly need to improve in communicating the beauty that we often take for granted. We take this extraordinary quality as a given, but it has long since ceased to be just that. It has gained much more importance precisely because it
is so difficult to manufacture and guarantee consistently. Especially in Germany, where we supply 120 retailers, I have the impression that this effort and honesty is very much appreciated. What does it take to support and promote supply chains like yours? Preserving this asset needs to be in the national interest of all institutions. Fashion from Italy enjoys the highest recognition worldwide. We need to ensure that the knowledge is passed on by investing in education and training, thus making the “saper fare” interesting for future generations. In addition, tax relief for companies that utilise local supply chains and adapt their production in the spirit of sustainability would be an excellent incentive. The foundations to return “Made in Italy” to its former glory and glamour are there. We simply need to nurture the beauty and knowledge we are surrounded by.
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Leo Padulo is a strategist. He addresses challenges along the supply chain analytically and proactively.
In its 2023 spring/ summer collection, Freedomday relies on hyper-feminine patterns for women – featuring plenty of colour and prints reminiscent of Sicily.
MAXMODA
“INVESTMENT AND COMMUNICATION ARE THE KEYS TO SUCCESS” Max Moda is the parent company of the two Italian outerwear brands Freedomday and Outhere, which enjoyed great success in the domestic and international markets in recent seasons despite the pandemic, war, and problems within the supply chain. A conversation with Leo Padulo, Commercial Director of both brands, about future strategies and new challenges. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Max Moda
Leo, much has happened since we last spoke. Yes, that is true. The loss of the Russian and Ukrainian markets, the general unpredictability of markets, and challenges along the supply chain have caused us additional headaches. Yet we are and remain a company driven by a distinct philosophy: we strive to
contribute to positive change in the fashion industry and give the end consumer a sense of belonging by making our customers’ shopping experience truly exceptional. The figures prove that we are succeeding. Both brands, Freedomday and Outhere, managed to increase their sales by around 40 percent. How did you overcome the supply chain challenges? Rising raw material prices, the disproportionate increase in transport costs, and the difficulties surrounding quality control in the production process are genuine challenges, we cannot deny that. We at Max Moda analysed all scenarios, simulated solutions, and arrived at the following conclusion: we need to explore production opportunities in other countries that allow us to shorten the supply
chain. We must also become more accurate in the calculation of sales forecasts, which is only possible through specialised systems, i.e. advanced algorithms and probability calculations. This requires investment, which we are prepared to do. Investment and communication are the keys to success. What do you expect from the German- speaking market? We are excellently positioned in the German market with two outstanding sales partners. Freedomday has been represented by Munich-based Michaelis Fashion Agency since January 2022, and Outhere cooperates with Niklas Rill in Düsseldorf. We intend to improve brand awareness in the DACH area and will continue to support wholesalers and, in particular, stationary retailers. style in progress
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FUNKY STAFF is switching from readyto-market mode to a classical pre-ordering model. This is not only intended to increase product quality, but above all to achieve sustainability.
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FUNKY STAFF
SUSTAINABILITY REQUIRES TIME “We lose speed to win time” is the new motto of Frankfurt-based fashion brand FUNKY STAFF. A credo that makes you sit up and take note. After all, founder Uwe Bernecker is known as the Mr. Duracell of the industry. A conversation about learning, slowness, and love.
Uwe, your FUNKY_CAP caps and hats have been a surprise success at retailers like Reischmann, Anna Hoffs, Dodenhof, Ranck, and Zinser. Desirable retail partners that you have had on your FUNKY STAFF hunting list for a long time. How did it work so quickly with FUNKY_CAP? Uwe Bernecker, founder of FUNKY STAFF and FUNKY_CAP: FUNKY_CAP is our blueprint for the kind of “Made in Italy” and sustainability that we are striving for at FUNKY STAFF in general. From the spinning of the yarn to the label and packaging, everything is sourced from certified slow fashion manufacturers in Italy. Since we decided on a pre-order strategy, there is no overproduction. Yet, if needed, we can re-produce or customise at short notice. All this comes together in a strong, appealing product that perfectly fulfils its price/performance promise. I was amazed at how many retailers were interested in FUNKY_CAP on their own initiative and who our new Head of Sale Anika was able to enthuse about it – and above all: how uncomplicated it all was. But FUNKY STAFF has never been a complicated product. Delivery three months after the order deadline, a commercial price structure coupled with “Made in Italy” – surely the enthusiasm among retailers must be high? It is, but nevertheless the experience with FUNKY_ CAP has given us the final nudge to switch to the classic pre-order rhythm with FUNKY STAFF as well. Excuse me for asking so frankly, but is that not a huge step backwards? After all, everyone is talking about “on demand”. The fashion industry loves to formulate utopias, only to ultimately remain in its old patterns. Until a few weeks ago, people believed that in future the whole fashion world would look to Frankfurt, only to conjure Berlin out of the hat again (laughs). But let’s leave this political issue aside. What matters is that we now face completely different factors that make pre-order the right path for us.
Can you be more specific? There are three reasons. We do not anticipate any relaxation in terms of sourcing and prices. Although we maintain closest ties with our Italian producers, we are not immune to the fact that our deliveries could be delayed at some point. All it takes is for one small cog to malfunction – such as the haulage contractor only driving to Germany once a week instead of three times due to high fuel prices, or the dye factory only working three days a week due to 12-fold energy prices – and our so precisely timed system immediately comes under pressure. Then there is value. We will be able to make more complex products with this new rhythm – perhaps a highly elaborate blazer with a full range of details or a pair of jeans with a completely sustainable wash. We lack the time for that at the moment. And the most important aspect is sustainability. With a longer lead time, we can tweak many more parameters that guarantee an even more sustainable product. Will FUNKY STAFF remain the brand that retailers love you for now? Yes, as five delivery dates are booked at the two pre-order dates. We will always be the brand that knows how to translate fashion themes commercially with a special touch. The last two years have been a declaration of love to the stationary specialised retail trade, where brands like ours come into their own. Be it our specially developed local online partner technology Swipe & Find, the big Wir machen auf_merksam, or the many other initiatives in which we have invested a lot of time, money, and energy – we have proven on all levels that our heart beats for retail. Yet I love my wife Kerstin and her creativity even more than our retail partners. I am really looking forward to showing our existing and new customers how much more she and her team are capable of. Up to now, our speed has often limited her. Now, for the first time, Kerstin and her team can implement all the things we still envision. A final wrap-up: FUNKY ELEMENTS, your essentials available with bestseller service, will continue to exist, the recently patented You 2 trousers will be expanded, and FUNKY_CAP will remain independent. And Uwe Bernecker’s day fits into normal 24 hours once more. Summarised correctly? Summarised perfectly. (laughs) style in progress
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NEW ENTREPRENEURSHIP A start-up is a microenterprise launched by young nerds hoping for a million-dollar exit with a self-programmed app. It is high time to redefine the term start-up, because there is so much more to it: entrepreneurship in the best sense of the word, enterprising courage, faith in the future, and fresh innovation. What characterises today’s generation of founders? Where does it upend traditional principles and seize the opportunity to rethink radically? Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek, Nicoletta Schaper. Illustration: AdobeStock/hakinmhan. Photos: Interviewees and brands
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The collection that was co-designed by Dior and D-Air Lab.
Alberto Piovesan, the young creative director of Dainese’s D-Air Lab start-up.
D-Air Lab
“ENERGY AND METHOD” With its start-up D-Air Lab, Dainese has launched a brand that manufactures protective clothing of a different kind, cool and stylish. The creations have been featured on the catwalks of Dior in Paris and the biker jacket by D-Air Lab even featured prominently in one of Rihanna’s highly acclaimed maternity looks – photographed by star photographer Annie Leibovitz for US Vogue. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: D-Air Lab
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lberto, you obtained your bachelor’s degree in industrial design and multimedia from the IUAV in Venice in 2017. Five years later, you are the creative director of D-Air Lab and receiving acclaim at all levels. How did you manage to do that in such a short time and at such a young age? Alberto Piovesan, Creative Director of D-Air Lab: When our collections are worn by Rihanna in Vogue, by Valentino Rossi (nine MotoGP world championship titles) on the racetrack, by me during a test at -70 degrees Celsius, or even at the Dior Fashion Show in Paris, our entire team is extremely proud. In my case, I would say that such successes require a great deal of energy and a certain willingness to recognise and seize opportunities that arise in such a dynamic world. How crucial is the backing from such a re-
nowned company as Dainese and a courageous entrepreneur like Lino Dainese? Working in a company with such heritage is certainly a unique opportunity and an asset in redefining creative processes. Much of what D-Air Lab creates is the result of meticulous and radical creative work, but it is based on a long history of innovation. Here, people have been innovating continuously for 50 years and have never stood still for a day. Working with Lino is a unique experience every day. The D-Air Lab team is very young. What does a typical day at D-Air-Lab involve? There is no such thing as a “typical” day at D-Air Lab. Every day, we confront ourselves with futuristic visions, new contexts, and non-traditional solutions. This motivates us time and again to seek out new approaches. Led by very experienced individuals, working in this young team helps us face the daily challenges with energy and method. style in progress
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Enfin Levé
NO COMPROMISES Michal, you founded your label in 2011. What was your
deliberately distinct approach? Michal Hadas, founder enfin levé: From the very beginning, we adopted the highest quality product to the highest standards as our core DNA. We manufacture in Europe, featuring the best possible materials from Japan, USA, Italy, and Switzerland. Although we allow for a sound price-performance ratio, our retail prices are still quite high for a small, rather unknown label. Intuitively, we decided to sell direct to the consumer because we know there is a demand for our product. Back then, you were an early adopter with your direct-to-consumer approach, but now the offering has multiplied. Is this proof that you are on the right track? For us at least, this business model makes the most sense, especially in times of uncertainty and fragile supply chains. A single global event can completely upend the entire industry and place extreme pressure on wholesaling and production. After eleven years, what in your company still feels like a start-up? Perhaps the fact that we constantly adapt and evolve. Fortunately, we have a strong foundation, growing ambitions, and a great team that enables us to keep moving forward. The key is to stay true to oneself. Sure, there are some things we could have done differently, but if something does not feel 100 percent right, we let it go. Avoiding mistakes is downright impossible, or so I have realised. I prefer to trust my gut feeling and take risks without too much fear of failure – because there is no way around it anyway.
Unconditionally high-quality, unconditionally sophisticated: enfin levé.
Ad Hoc Atelier
MARKETPLACE FOR THE NICHE They were all under 25 years of age when the company was founded: Lorenzo Colucci, Carolina Du Chene, Giovanni Friggi, and Vittorio Tatangelo of Ad Hoc Atelier, a marketplace for handcrafted Italian products. Ad Hoc Atelier is a virtual studio for selected “Made in Italy” collections.
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Four young Italians, all under the age of 25, came up with the idea for a marketplace dedicated to selected Italian brands in the spring of 2021. For Lorenzo Colucci, Carolina Du Chene, Giovanni Friggi, and Vittorio Tatangelo, it was high time to give small, fine “Made in Italy” products, most of which are handmade and manufactured fairly throughout, a digital showcase. After all, the pandemic has shown that an online store is crucial for many of these brands, but few have the knowhow, resources, and capital to build an internationally competitive e-commerce platform. This is where Ad Hoc Atelier comes into play. The Milan-based start-up has created a place where one can indulge in curated, high-quality clothing, jewellery, and accessories for men and women from all over Italy. From Venice to the Amalfi Coast, from Milan to Sicily – Ad Hoc Atelier represents a journey of discovery through Italy and its still unknown brands that reflect all the beauty and artisan tradition of this country. Each product tells a story of passion, creativity, and craftsmanship. Lorenzo Colucci explains: “It is important to us that Italy’s best ‘artigiani’ can connect with customers from all over the world who are looking for unique, ethical, high-quality products – even if only digitally.” Today Ad Hoc Atelier features more than 100 brands including My Style Bags, sophisticated and bespoke bags, duffle bags, and travel accessories. Ripa Ripa, a beachwear label for men inspired by the Mediterranean atmosphere of the 1960s, and Caterina Bertini, bags and hats handmade in Florence since 1925, are also among the presented labels. In autumn 2021, the start-up set its sights on new export markets: USA, Germany, France, and Scandinavia. www.adhocatelier.com, www.instagram.com/adhoc.atelier
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Actress Paloma Garcia Lee wears a dress by Patrick McDowell that was created as part of the Red Carpet Green Dress competition. Photocredit: Courtesy of RCGD Global
Patrick McDowell
“YOU NEED TO KNOW THE RULES BEFORE YOU CAN BREAK THEM” He studied classical fashion at Central Saint Martins in London, only to do everything very differently. Patrick McDowell is perhaps considered one of the most exciting design talents for that very reason. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Patrick McDowell
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eople say that you are redefining the role of the designer. What are you doing differently from other young fashion designers? Patrick McDowell, founder of Patrick McDowell and Sustainable Design Director of Pinko: It is my responsibility as a designer not only to design clothes, but also to reshape the systems in which they are embedded. Central Saint Martins taught me so much, enabling me to reflect on the fashion industry and explore it holistically. Researching sustainable solutions with big brands and seeing how you can create new and enticing products from old fabrics and stock is incredible. But it is equally important to work together on international scholarship and internship programmes, or to develop new retail strategies such as rentals or customisation. With these elements, you can tell authentic stories that appeal to today’s customers. And in this interaction, you create an impact that can be of global dimension. To what extent do you use existing knowledge to create something completely new?
It sparkles green on Oscar night: Patrick McDowell’s design is completely sustainable.
You need to know the rules before you can break them, right? I really spent a lot of time understanding clothing – how to sew it and sell it. I have a weakness for fabrics and an almost encyclopaedic knowledge of them, simply because I love them. My time at Central Saint Martins allowed me to think differently and challenge norms. Gaining experience in houses like Burberry helped me understand the business and, because I worked in retail during university, I know quite a bit about how to communicate with customers. I am proud to be a working-class kid from northern England, so I was not restricted by any expectations as to which path I should take. I had a natural flair for creativity and could channel it properly – that is how I found my way into fashion. Do you consider sustainability to be the key to a reorganisation of the fashion industry? In order for sustainability to work, we need to approach the issue holistically. As a company, it is about developing a plan that permeates the entire model and working with all stakeholders to achieve long-term, positive change. When we work together to create something that is better than what we could have achieved alone, we will always come out on top. You cannot be afraid to take risks, that is the only way to create the companies of tomorrow that our children will be proud of down the line. style in progress
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P.E.A.S.
WHEN CLOTHING COMMUNICATES
P.E.A.S. Imagine being able to connect to your t-shirt via a smartphone app to track how often you have worn it and how significant your contribution to the environment is through repeated wear. This may sound utopian, but it has become reality since the development of P.E.A.S (Product Environmental Accountability System). The innovative system calculates all production steps of a garment, from raw material to final product, and its impact on the environment. P.E.A.S combines data with a gaming aspect – the app communicates and motivates without pointing fingers. This pioneering project was born from the collaboration of Matteo Ward’s eco start-up WRÅD and such renowned companies as MOOD, 1TrueID, and WWG. The development was supported by the Lombardy Region and Politecnico Milano.
Re-nt
FLEXIBILITY AS A CONSTANT
In 2018, you launched a peer-to-peer platform where consumers could rent clothes to each other. That alone was a revolutionary idea, but you then flipped it around completely. Robina von Stein, founder of Re-nt: Yes, we quickly realised that there was more demand than supply. We decided to develop a platform where brands could rent out their surplus production to consumers on a subscription basis. From 2019 onwards, we were approached by an increasing number of brands who wanted to launch their own resell online shop. So, we licensed our software to allow brands to offer circular economy models independently. Although we enjoyed considerable growth in the B2C segment, we decided in 2020 to focus exclusively on B2B in order to integrate retailers and brands such as About You of Otto Group and Adidas into the circular economy. We start with consulting and workshops explaining what circular economy means and how far along it is in terms of circular design, and also supply the software and backend. In addition, we bring in partners for fulfilment, giving the brands the opportunity to track their own sustainability levels. Where exactly have you leveraged tried-and-tested business models and mechanisms? You could say that we have completely re-imagined the existing linear business model of fashion: away from fashion as ownership, especially since ownership is no longer an objective for the younger generation, towards clothing-as-a-service. As recently as 2018, it was very difficult to convince brands, especially as they feared cannibalising their own business model. Today, brands are much more willing to actively shape a process that is inevitable. How do you, as a company, manage to remain so flexible? By being a small team of never more than 15 people. This allows us to experiment and change what does not work well. We exchange ideas constantly, which always helps us move forward. In addition, our leadership is not hierarchical. Instead, everyone assumes responsibility and expertise for a certain field. Employees can grow most effectively in such a structure.
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Robina von Stein founded Re-nt and turned it into a success.
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For Days
DIALOGUE Working in an office used to be commonplace. How do you, as a start-up company, work today? Kristy Caylor, founder of For Days: We do not have a shared office; our team works very well together virtually. However, occasional face-to-face meetings are essential for creative businesses. Especially as the team grows, we will probably require an office as a meeting place again. Sustainability is the foundation of For Days. What influence does that have on communication with customers? We attach great importance to transparency and authentic reporting on our sustainability efforts and progress. Education is an important aspect of our communication, as we want to change people’s attitudes towards circular economy. Finally, we engage in dialogue with our customers. We listen, ask questions, and value their feedback. What are the advantages of your direct-to-consumer concept? A direct-to-consumer approach gives us more control over the user experience. We use our community for design feedback, mainly through our ambassador group and social channels. Like For Days co-founder Mary Saunders, you worked for Gap and have a great deal of experience in the fashion business. Can that hinder – or rather inspire – the rethinking process? Starting from a foundation is a great advantage when trying to change the system. We have a deep understanding of complexity, economics, and the current state of affairs and are therefore well informed about what we are changing! The goal is to be fully circular. Is this already possible? Yes, it is possible. We collect all used For Days clothes and put them through a fibre-to-fibre recycling process.
Kristy Caylor’s ultimate goal for For Days is full circularity.
Dimpora
DIVERSITY IS OUR STRENGTH”
Mario Stucki relies on innovation within a team.
dimpora is a new generation of fluorine-free, microporous membranes for outdoor clothing that are breathable and waterproof. How did this important innovation come about? Mario Stucki, founder of dimpora: The urgent need to develop functional membranes without fluorinated chemicals was made public by the Greenpeace Detox campaign. The major brands were challenged for the first time to ban all toxic, persistent, and hormone-disrupting chemicals from their production processes. This also raised consumer awareness of these dangerous practices. So, during my doctoral studies at ETH Zurich, I worked on a more environmentally friendly membrane technology and broadened the stencil removal method established for functional materials to include functional membranes for outdoor clothing. Does creativity best emerge alone or in an exchange within a team? Our diversity in terms of background, culture, and gender is an incredible strength and source of ideas! We all come from different sectors, from chemical engineering, business, or textiles and fashion. This allows us to work together to create solutions within the complex textile supply chain. We strive to apply our process and innovative thinking to projects with partners to create much-needed positive change. The outdoor industry in particular is genuinely interested in taking the next step. How important are mistakes in creating something new? Making mistakes is the basis for pushing boundaries. If we do not make mistakes along the way, we know we did not try hard enough. That is why it is part of our company’s DNA to analyse and tell the team why it did not work this time in order to learn from it.
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DEVIN GILMARTIN, THE CANVAS
“DECENTRALISATION IS THE ANSWER” The United Nation’s 17 sustainable development goals (SDG), presented as colourful pictograms, inspired Devin Gilmartin to start the fashion brand Querencia Studio with fellow high school student Tegan Maxey. Moving on to college in New York, their business grew into a nomadic store concept strongly linked to SDG, down to those pictograms. The Canvas only accepts small brands who can demonstrate the way they meet particular SDG, and then the store provides customers with meaningful information about the products. Now 24 years old, Devin discusses the power of decentralisation and physical stores, his alternative to trying to retain Gen Z’s attention, and what it is like to become your own professor’s boss. Interview: Petrina Engelke, Photos: The Canvas / Dr Cameron Smith
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evin, why do you believe that if small brands do something together, they can achieve more than a large corporation? Well, for a start, large corporations are not achieving very much. In fact, they achieve more destruction than good, and they have created a system that makes it hard to fault individuals for. Corporate greed is structural, and incentives are not aligned with the incentives of a healthy planet and healthy people. So we need to change what success looks like. And I think that happens when you have independent creators with a clear path to monetary stability. I also think physical retail access is one way to do that. Secondly, the large brands have created supply chains and systems that are hard to change. Even going into companies like Zara and H&M as an executive,
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The Canvas co-founder Devin Gilmartin (24) has a vision of decentralising fashion and providing a path to monetary stability for independent creators.
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you will have a very difficult time trying to implement changes across the board. I think it is a lot easier to build from the ground up and start fresh. And that is what all these small brands are doing: They have new ideas, they have a local supply chain. If we have many, many different cases of that kind of system in place and use it to dress people and feed the fashion economy, then that is much better than this built-in supply chain that is outdated and unsustainable, both from an environmental and a longevity perspective. We are hitting resource limitations, so something has to give. And I think decentralisation is the answer to that problem. How are you acting on that idea? When a brand applies to join The Canvas, they have to talk about how they address at least one of the UN sustainable development goals. And they have to describe that in as much detail as they possibly can, with photos and certificates, so that we can share that narrative when we have customers in the store. There, our tags have the SDGs on them, with little boxes next to each SDG, checked off pertaining to the goal that the brand addresses. In our latest store, we are implementing QR codes on each tag, working with a company called Rootip. By scanning the QR code you will be able to see the entire supply chain of the brand and the individuals involved in that supply chain. You will actually be able to tip these people directly. The money goes to that person, not the company, not us. You do not even have to buy the garment to do that. I think that goes beyond transparency, that goes to actually connecting the world in a new way. How did The Canvas change when you look back at what you first wanted to achieve? The Canvas has remained passionate about sustainable development goals, but how we address them has slightly changed. We are living in a new retail environment, a new business environment. We started the company intuitively thinking that a change was coming. The calculus was, there are many, many small brands in the world and there are many, many vacant spaces in the world. And I think the small brands sort of represent a decentralisation of power. What does decentralisation mean in practise? When you sell a product, no matter what it is, and you control the entire supply chain of that product, you know the individuals involved in making that product, you have power over your own life. You have independence and sovereignty. I think fashion is just one example of where that is growing. Other examples of that sort of decentralisation are the financial sector and what is happening
with NFTs, cryptocurrency and so on. I think overall, this is going to be a moment of great change and opportunity for society. And we want to make sure that the independent creators of the world can capitalise off that and continue to empower themselves. We are a vehicle for doing that. Your first NFT was not a classic fashion design as one might have expected, but it was a space suit, drawn by an archaeologist with a passion for space travel. How did that come about? When we talk about independent creators, we are not just talking about fashion brands, we are talking about people who have shown what you can really do when you create independently and provide a roadmap for how to do that. And Cameron Smith, the archaeologist you mentioned, an anthropologist as well, has dedicated his whole life to researching and making space suits by hand that actually function. Now, a common comment on NFTs is the lack of utility that they provide. You can show people that you have this JPG in your wallet. What else do we do with it? Cameron has this amazing talent to build space suits by hand, and he has access to space flight. So we created an NFT so that if you buy that image, you receive a custom space suit and a flight. What was in it for you? This project garnered some interesting reactions, and it brought us into the crypto community, which is a very strong community – as is the ethical fashion one. These are two communities that I think should meet and get to know each other. The dogmatism that people have around cryptocurrency, how
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“We need to change what success looks like.” excited they get: that is the same thing in ethical fashion. So, if these two communities unite and empower each other, the environmental side of things will take care of itself. People will find solutions to those kinds of problems. And this will enable a new kind of fashion system and a new kind of financial system, intertwining and growing together. Now that you have observed both of those communities, what, would you say, do they have in common that they might not even know? I would say they certainly know they have passion in common. What they perhaps do not understand is that they both have access to the largest groups in the world. Everyone wears clothing, and everyone spends money in some form. They are both in a great position of cultural authority. I think that is what both of these communities need to recognise. So, I think responsibility, opportunity, and power is what they both have. Talking about power: earlier this year, you hired your former professor. What is it like to become your own teacher’s boss? Well, Harold Brooks was a professor of mine at NYU. He taught an amazing class on fashion business, and he shortly after joined as an advisor to the company. We ultimately offered him the CEO of Retail position, and he accepted it. Harold has made some huge changes very quickly. I mean, he is at
“We want to make opening a physical store as easy as opening an online one”, says The Canvas co-founder Devin Gilmartin. The store has been moving around from Manhattan, Brooklyn, Antwerp, and back to Manhattan – on purpose.
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“The dogmatism that people have around cryptocurrency, how excited they get: that is the same thing in ethical fashion.”
the highest level when it comes to retail and fashion, he understands things that take many decades to understand. And he does that almost in his sleep. On the other hand, on your end, what is the advantage of lacking exactly this experience? That is the conversation we have every day. How do we figure out what is right and what is potentially worth questioning in an industry like retail? An industry which has set in place certain standards and processes that I think are there for a reason, but some of those things should be reconsidered. And so Harold and I are always reviewing every single one of those things. Can you give an example of a retail standard that you might discuss? There are certain ways of presenting stores and having customers interact with those stores that we are now reassessing. Harold comes from Fossil watches and duty-free shops in airports, so he brings his experience in what works in that situation. And we bring what we think could actually change that for the better. The QR codes, for example. Arranging a rack, a store area, or presentation in a way that has some familiarity to the customer, but also introduces new elements of discovery, curiosity, and design. And soon we will open at the Oculus, a mall at the World Trade Center. I think that is a really good example of the old and the new coming together, because it will bring a unique retail concept to a rather not so new way of laying out multiple stores in a mall. All these things bring a chance for us to really think hard about what makes us different. You are part of Gen Z, and from your experience, both as a businessman and as a consumer, what would you say is crucial to attract and also retain the attention of your peers? I do not even know if the goal is to retain their attention anymore. I think it is to get their attention, to deliver something unique that they can then take away from the period they spent with you – in the store, or with the experience that you have created. And no matter how short that period was, to have that experience be so profound that it results in a change of behaviour. For example, you come into The Canvas store, and you are met with a tag that allows you to look at how a brand is doing certain things in their supply chain, the names of the people behind that brand, and where they are from. Then the next time you walk into H&M, Zara, Top 210
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This sketch by Pacific Space Flight founder Cameron Smith is the base of The Canvas’ first NFT, launched in Milan this February. In addition to the typical JPEG, their NFT came with a custom space suit made by Smith plus an opportunity to experience a high-altitude flight.
Shop, or Forever 21, you may not consciously have this thought, but intuitively you are going to feel differently about their tag that says seven dollars for a t-shirt and gives none of that background. Then you have a subtle change in philosophy as to how a product should be presented to you. And if that happens over and over again a global scale, people will start asking more questions. Who made my clothes? Where was it made? How was it made? These are the questions that we really want to inspire in people. You do not only question the goal of retaining customer attention, you seem to embrace ephemerality also in regard to your retail locations. Is your nomadic presence born out of necessity or is that part of your business plan? Well, it is actually both. Shopify allowed any brand in the world to open an online store. An online store is constantly changing. You can change your homepage, you can change the design, and you change the colours. We want to make opening a physical store as easy as opening an online one. We want brands to be able to join other brands in being a part
of a store. That allows flexibility between us and the brands, but also the ability to jump around to different spaces through the revenue share agreements that we create with landlords. We can sell there for some time, but we can also very quickly exit it and enter a new space. And I think that is very attractive for a brand that has an online presence. They can capture different audiences. If we can do our job as The Canvas in presenting these brands in a way that sticks with the audience that joins us in any particular location, they will likely follow us to the next location where even more people will find out about what they are doing. That is what we have seen going from the Upper East Side of Manhattan to Williamsburg in Brooklyn, back to Manhattan’s Bowery and briefly over to Antwerp in Belgium, now to the World Trade Center. It was an experiment at first, but now I think we are quite confident in its longevity as a business model.
https://thecanvas.nyc/ https://www.rootip.io/index.html
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FEMINIST FAIR FASHION
“WE ASPIRE TO BE ROLE MODELS” Designer fashion does not have to come at the expense of others, argue Lara Heiss and her mother Sibel Yildiz, who hope to build a bridge from Istanbul to Europe with fashion. A conversation about what is closest to both their hearts. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: FeminIst Fair Fashion
Lara Heiss and her mother Sibel Yildiz founded FeminIst Fair Fashion in November 2021.
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ould you describe your company and its mission? Lara Heiss, Managing Director of FeminIst Fair Fashion: We aim to pull Turkish designers out of the destructive spiral of fast fashion and offer fashion-conscious Europeans genuine, wearable sustainability. Sustainability is our USP, but there are so many sustainable brands that do not reach beyond basic fashion. So we scouted more than 30 prominent designers at the Istanbul Fashion Week, and we decided to pursue this journey with three of them. They now produce their designs completely sustainably under our brand. Sibel Yildiz, Managing Director of FeminIst Fair Fashion: The design practically does not change, but the materials do. We do not use plastic, but rather organic and GOTS-certified cotton and linen sourced from Turkey, with the exception of Tencel from Austria. The garments are produced in family-run ateliers in the fashion metropolis of Istanbul. We believe in ethically produced designer fashion, where the social aspect must also factor in, throughout the entire supply chain. Lara Heiss: We want to ensure that the women and men working in the ateliers do so under the same conditions and receive fair wages. In Bangladesh and Vietnam, where most fast fashion is produced, women work in terrible conditions. In Arab countries, it mostly affects men, as women are often not allowed to work. We value honest feminism that does not discriminate against any side: hence the name FeminIst Fair Fashion. Our website provides transparent information on who produced a certain piece under which conditions and how much the employees earn. We monitor this information very thoroughly. Sibel Yildiz: We benefit from the fact that I am from Istanbul and have many contacts there. Turkey produces beautiful fashion, and it is a tex-
Tuba Ergin is one of three designers at FeminIst Fair Fashion.
tile country! We wish to draw attention to this, because the country is home to so many creative minds and gifted hands. How do you handle distribution? Sibel Yildiz: Entirely on our own. On the one hand, we sell via our online shop and maintain a warehouse in our hometown Innsbruck. Beyond that, we would like to feature at specialised fashion retailers and department stores. We are currently available online at Zalando and Avocadostore, as well as offline at Kastner & Öhler in Graz and Innsbruck, where our designer fashion is presented in a pop-up space. More stores will hopefully follow soon. It’s so important to touch and try on fashion; the quality and feel come across differently. www.feminist-fair-fashion.com
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Moving Minds Jeff Bezos was one of the first to articulate the idea: “Start with the customer and work backwards.” His maxim simplifies a highly complex process that we are also experiencing in fashion retail. It represents the paradigm shift that is currently unfolding throughout the product development process up to the point of sale. The consumer is no longer merely a participant, he is the zero meridian from which the matrix unfolds. This is fuelled by an intense dynamic that, beginning with demand, enables the transformation of existing mindsets and constructs. This is most evident at active touchpoints with the consumer: in retail. New store concepts are removing existing boundaries between offline and online, implementing a 212
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second hand-based circular consumer economy – even in a luxury-driven mass market like China. The store serves as a physical bypass of the social media presence of successful star influencers, or as a cosy retreat in the form of brand stores that underpin their assortment with other brands. The consumer is always the driving force. It is always a transformation that gives rise to something new. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Stores
WHAT'S THE STORY
What will stationary retail resemble after the pandemic? Will it shift even further to digital? What does hybrid actually mean? And, what determines the architecture of a digital space? Aarushi Kalra dedicated the master’s thesis of her architecture studies at the RCA in London to answering such questions. It explores how the versatility of a website can be translated into the analogue in order to push existing boundaries.
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The walk-in online store. Aarushi Kalra designed a stationary store for the online retailer Border & Fall: constructed like a website, infinitely and diversely adaptable like a blank canvas. Border & Fall symbolises the reinterpretation of the Indian sari and its detachment from existing clichés – a 7-yard fabric surface that can be designed in multiple ways.
Theatre X/London Transplanting the Digital Into the Physical For her master’s thesis, Aarushi Kalra set herself the challenge of creating an experimental, maximally flexible store experience that combines the best aspects of analogue and digital spaces. In the process, the Indian-born designer conceived an analogue alter ego as a physical space for Border & Fall, a webstore that reinterprets traditional saris. If a website were a physical space, the key attributes that could be transferred to the real world would be adaptability, flexibility, and transformation. The architect translated this aspiration into an intricate system of invisible fixtures, brackets, and rolls that ensure that the space can be reconfigured dynamically. In addition, the store features themed rooms reminiscent of the scroll-down menu on the website: Meet the Maker, Experience the Making, Contact Us, Shop, Events, and Design Philosophy.
“At its core, Theatre X balances the digital and physical elements of a space by creating a strong and clear dialogue between the two, offering itself as a blank canvas that effortlessly takes on the identity of the content it is currently displaying. Space acts like an architectural, ever-changing display with a fascinating experiential character.”
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B+Tube/Changsha AI-Driven Experience Cathedral The young, progressive cosmetics brand B+ interacts with its teenage core target group via digital, interactive spaces, AI-driven technologies, and multimedia screens. Shanghai-based Dutch design agency Storeage conceived its first physical flagship store for B+Tube as a gargantuan multimedia hotspot featuring a direct interface to social media forums. Interactive mirrors and screens provide on-demand instructions and training while videos show tutorials and recommend complementary products from the international multi-brand range. Digital touchpoints allow customers to share their virtually generated makeup creations even before they have purchased the products.
Shopping cathedral for Gen Z customers. Chinese multi-brand cosmetics store B+Tube reaches its target group where they feel most comfortable: in the overlap of digital and physical reality.
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The analogue image of a successful career woman. Vasquiat was launched by Blanca Miró Scrimieri as a creative platform for fresh, independent labels. Today, the store is a representation of her social media expertise and draws on her celebrity status.
Vasquiat/Barcelona The Store as an Instagram Feed It almost feels like a private living room. The small, elegant concept store in Barcelona’s city centre functions as a very personalised go-to-market platform for young labels and designers. Founded in 2018 by Spanish stylist and fashion blogger Blanca Miró Scrimieri, the store thrives on close links with the social media accounts of one of the most famous influencers in the Spanish fashion community. She has also consulted on social media strategies for brands such as Carolina Herrera, Chanel, Dior, and Jimmy Choo.
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Mes Amis/Heidelberg The Potential of Diversity Understanding transformation as an opportunity to complement content and further develop the product range is a big step for a traditional business like Mey, which already set the tone with the acquisition of Uhlig am Dom in Mainz and Grazia in Salzburg in 2019. With Mes Amis, the brand has now opened its first own multi-brand store. Sensibly complemented by swimwear, stockings, cosmetics and lingerie, Mes Amis offers a well-rounded brand world that Mey presents naturally in a perfectly curated environment. A concept for brands that are not afraid of comparison – but seek it.
Partnership with potential: open store concepts like Mes Amis illustrate how meaningful partnerships can be and prove that even total look providers should question mono-label retail concepts.
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SND Boutique/Chongqing Occupying the Urban Niche
The flow of extremes: SND Boutique is synonymous with selected avant-garde labels and unconventional store concepts. The showroom under one of Chongqing’s largest motorway interchanges combines the element of surprise with efficient use of valuable inner-city space.
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A spot under the bridge takes on a completely new meaning: the constant search for unconventional ideas is definitely part of the DNA of Chinese multi-brand store SND Boutique. For the megacity of Chongqing, the company chose an extraordinary location in the World Financial Center, the economic epicentre of the city, which boasts an extraordinary number of motorway bridges due to its location across several hills. The complex transport system and topography lend the city its unique charm, while at the same time the bridges play an important role in the ecosystem of the entire city – and in the efficient use of its very limited inner-city space. A predicament which architecture and design firm Various Associates turned into a virtue.
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Ponhu Luxury Lifestyle Store/Peking Second-Hand Station The first stationary store of Ponhu Luxury, an online platform known for its exquisite range of high-quality second-hand collectibles, opened in Beijing in late 2021, structured like a gigantic transit station for luxury goods. Here, design studio Unfoldesign staged the dynamics of the circular ecosystem. The objective was to engage with the collector’s instinct of a grateful core target group consisting of digital natives seeking truly unique items. The second-hand sector is booming in China and attracting young people in particular. As early as 2020, the China Center for Internet Economy Research recorded an increase to over USD 143 billion in sales in this segment. In addition to resale, the store also provides services such as repair, rental, and auctions.
Retail chain Fat Tiger Technology operates exclusive luxury stores throughout China under the Ponhu brand. The first second-hand store opened in Beijing at the end of 2021, paying homage to resale as the consumer ideology of a new generation.
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Lotte Departmentstore/Busan In the Paradise of Millennial Families A mammoth project that the Betwinspace design studio in Busan, South Korea, successfully completed in December 2021: the redesign of the entire first floor of the Lotte department store. The thematic orientation is especially intriguing, as the focus is on the aesthetics and lifestyle of millennial families (people born around the turn of the millennium who now have children of their own). Under the motto Futureland, the idea was to create a psycho-hygienic sanctuary where one can immerse oneself in an oasis of art and culture, nature and garden, fashion, and interior – completely protected from external influences. A time-out for all customers stressed by everyday life and bad news – a rounded universe of style as an oasis of well-being.
The future looks bright. Lotte Department Store created a feelgood oasis for discerning millennial families in South Korea based on this message and an eclectic mix of natural elements, high-quality products, art, and culture.
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Spotlite by Jelmoli/Zürich A Hybrid Concept for Gen Z Following renovations, renowned premium department store Jelmoli reopened its streetwear space Spotlite at the end of 2021 – enlarged threefold. A clear sign of how important CEO Nina Müller believes the young target group and its potential as a driver for fashion is. “We are the oldest traditional department store in Switzerland. We have been around for almost 190 years. Our goal has always been to reinvent the department store concept, and to actively promote and help shape conscious consumption of the future. The concept of consumption is being rethought and challenged. An important catalyst for this change includes younger target groups such as Gen Z. They consider consumption to be about more than products and brands. It comes down to meaningfulness, stories, and experiences. With new space concepts such as Spotlite, we strive to give these aspects more exposure, space, and dimension, in order to reach future customers in their new living environment. We firmly believe in stationary retail if it succeeds in dovetailing with the digital world in a meaningful way. We humans have always had a need for haptic and real experiences, and we always will – arguably more so than ever before. However, online offers convenience, benefits, and innovations that allow us to reach our customers in a completely new way. In spring, we as Jelmoli plan to gain first experiences in the metaverse. The agility offered by new channels allows us to create even more proximity to our customers – be it online or offline.” (Nina Müller)
Playing in the premier league of tier zero accounts, Spotlite by Jelmoli knows what excites its core target group: exclusive brands, interactive spaces, and purposeful collaborations in an appropriate general context.
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МАЙБУТНЄ І СВОБОДА
*FUTURE & FREEDOM U KRAINE IS HOME TO A VIBRANT FASHION AND CREATIVE SCENE.
AMG Brand
Paskal
The Coat
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For people like fashion journalist Ana Varava, the world has been off its hinges since February 2022. style in progress invited the fashion expert, who fled to Germany, to portray the fashion scene in her home country. Be it design talents or tech incubators, Ana Varava gives a very personal insight into the cumulative creativity of Ukraine. Text: Ana Varava. Photos: Interviewees and brands
T
he 24th of February 2022 changed the normal way of life for millions of people in Ukraine, in Europe, in the whole world. Personally, I was in Kyiv that day, in the capital of Ukraine, in the very centre. From the first air-raid warning, everything changed its colours. After that, everything is a blur. The lives and businesses of millions of people were overturned. Over the last 15 years of working in the fashion and media industry worldwide, living in eight countries, gaining three international MAs, and being passionate about fashion and its psychological and business side, I have always initiated activities to promote Ukraine by means of presenting its fashion creative talents to the world. As of 2014, after signing the economic section of the Ukraine-EU Association agreement followed by signing the DCFTA in 2016, the parties mutually agreed to open their markets for goods and services. This is when Ukraine stepped into the path of euro integration. Textile and clothing industries, especially in developing countries, are important in economic and social fields. Clothing is a key manufacturing export here. According to the latest recorded statistics, the global fashion market increased from 780.61 billion US Dollars in 2020 to 825.70 billion US Dollars in 2021. New companies enter the 3 billion textile and ready-to-wear market every day. The Ukrainian fashion industry embarked on its journey with the first Ukrainian fashion week event in 1997, and more than 20 years later there are more than 16,602
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industry enterprises and 11,701 apparel enterprises, among which 1.96% are medium-sized enterprises, 6.46% small, and 91.58% micro-enterprises (according to Ukrstat data). In 2019, the Ukrainian fashion segment posted revenue of 348 million Euros, with an expectation to grow at 9.0% in 2023. At the end of 2018, with the purpose of identifying the current state of the light, textile and fashion industries, their role in terms of the country’s GDP in recent years, I, in my capacity as a senior fellow in sectoral policy and communication at MFA of Ukraine for the EU, conducted the first academic fashion industry research in Ukraine. It was supported by the Ministry of Culture of Ukraine and the Ukrainian Cultural Fund, and curated by German supervisors, namely professors of Hochschule Furtwangen, Germany. The paper contributed notably to defining the added value of design/fashion items of the womenswear sector in Ukraine, and the impact of brands on the country’s economy. Added value is a key indicator to the country’s GDP. Talking about the creative part of the Ukrainian fashion industry, in the course of research, I realised that the total contribution of design women’s clothing to GDP is between 0.06% and 0.1%, which is a huge indicator. All that empirical evidence proved the huge creative potential of Ukrainian designers and brands. The key factors are creative and quality aspects of the business, while marketing, business organisation, integration of new technologies, and logistics might be described as weak points. Regardless of the uncertainties that the war is now causing, Ukrainian designers and brands were facing major challenges. The issues included topics such as dependence on raw material imports and simplification of customs regulations, as well as the development of new sales methods and management of distribution chains. It was evident that investments in infrastructure and technological modernisation were still required. All this coupled with transparency for potential investors and clients and modern e-commerce structures remained on the country’s to do list. We still hope that we will soon have the opportunity to address these matters with determination. style in progress
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AMG BRAND
“SHOW THE POWER OF UKRAINE” Founded in 2009 by designer Alyona Bettiar, who believes that garments should be created by women for women, AMG Brand specialises in clothing that will never go out of fashion and always be the star of any wardrobe. The label also offers high-end cuts and production.
FROLOV
COUTURE -TO WEAR
“Frolov is a couture-to-wear brand that combines flawlessness and comfort, intelligence and provocation, social responsibility, and serenity. No wonder that people pronounce Frolov as “for love”, which is not a mistake as we place an anatomical heart on each of our pieces,” says designer Ivan Frolov. “Through clothes, we explore and communicate messages that are very important for us to convey. It is about transgender culture, BDSM ethics and aesthetics, fetishism, the LGBTQ+ movement, and female objectification. Frolov is also about artistic collaborations. We love to create joint projects with emergent Ukrainian artists: Masha Reva, Taras Sereda, Vlada Ralko, etc. The aesthetics of Frolov pieces include corsetry, only lux fabrics, and detailed embellishments. Our statement pieces include cult corsets, bra-bags, and dresses featuring handmade crystal embroidery.” Where in the world are you represented? The brand is sold in 17 countries, including Ukraine, USA, France, Great Britain, Germany, Kuwait, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates, and Hong Kong. Which customers are you targeting? Frolov is for people who love to express themselves in their own unique way, who love to experiment, who empower their sexuality, and do not treat their look as mere pieces of clothing, but as a powerful statement. Our pieces are worn by Dua Lipa, Doja Cat, Gwen Stefani, Coco Rocha, Rita Ora, Nadia Lee Cohen, and Ashley Benson. Which fashion industry trends do you integrate into your brand? We produce couture-to-wear designs as a main line within seasonless collections. We are focused on creating timeless items. That is why pieces from our past collections can still be perfectly paired with new ones. Other key features of the brand include customising clothes for the unique measurements of each client and a lifetime warranty for each piece. By harnessing technical innovations, we create the best working conditions for our employees. Frolov, Kyiv/Ukraine, info@frolov.ua, www.frolov.fr
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What can you tell us about your sales geography? We are sold online throughout the world and are also represented in some boutiques in Europe and Arabian countries. Who is your typical customer? A self-sufficient woman who is developing constantly and knows what she wants from life. She chooses us because of our high quality in cut and production, as well as our individual approach. One of our most famous customers is Olena Zelenska, the First Lady of Ukraine. Which modern trends are integrated into the brand? AMG Brand has a line called IMAGINE, which exclusively uses sustainable and recycled fabrics in its production. As a designer, I always personally attend to First Lady Olena Zelenska’s looks. Everything, from the sketch to fabric choice, is made by me and confirmed by the First Lady. All looks are very individual, based on event, protocol, and required mood. The collaboration started around a year ago in a very positive and smooth manner and continues to remain so. Which international fashion events do you attend? For many consecutive years, we have taken part in events at showrooms in Paris and Milan, as well as at the Ukrainian Fashion Week. We now plan to expand to more international fashion weeks. This also allows us to show the world the power and competitiveness of Ukraine. AMG Brand, Kyiv/Ukraine, office@amgbrand.com, www.amgbrand.com
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TTSWTRS
COLLECTIONS FOR THE METAVERSE
The vision of TTSWTRS hovers somewhere on the edge of fashion and technology, highly integrated into the digital universe. The brand also operates stationary stores in the major Ukrainian cities of Kyiv, Odessa, and Kharkiv. Founded in 2013 by Anna Osmekhina, the brand became popular due to clothes featuring tattoo prints on the body, the usage of beige in its palette, and its concept of understanding clothing as a second skin. The main focus was and is always on the search for self-expression and artistic collaboration. It pursues current fashion trends and recently started paying more attention to technologies, symbolism, and futurism. Every new image is created in collaboration with tattoo artists around the world.
KSENIASCHNAIDER
“PERFECT FOR A BUSY LIFESTYLE” Founded by Ksenia and Anton Schnaider in 2011, the brand offers women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, reworked, upcycled, patchwork, denim, and accessories collections, featuring signature cuts, techniques, and attention to detail, with an emphasis on tailoring and sustainable use of materials. Which are your most outstanding pieces? The brand’s commitment to sustainability has been evident throughout all the countless versatile garments, which are perfect for a busy lifestyle, and it is renowned for the use of its famous design Demi-Denims, reworked from vintage jeans. The two main embodiments are design and sustainability. We developed a way to turn textile waste into denim fur, and most recently into patchwork items. Did you enter any collaborations? We collaborated with bettter, another Ukrainian-based sustainable brand, to create a limited edition of upcycled denim pieces. We also designed eco-friendly suitcases in collaboration with Have a Rest. Each one was made of recycled plastic. The brand partnered with DevoHome to work with alternative fur made of hemp fibres. In partnership with Belgium-based brand Morobe, we produced a line of shoes made of left-over denim sourced from our Kyiv studio. For years now, we have been working with ISKO, the only denim mill in the world awarded the prestigious Nordic SWAN Ecolabel and the EU Ecolabel, to develop several pieces for the ISKO Earth Fit collection. Which initiatives are you most proud of? The brand actively supports charity initiatives. We donated money from every Black Friday order. In 2021, Kseniaschnaider teamed up with the Marine Conservation Society to donate 5 percent of every order to protect the ocean and marine life. KS also received the award for “Best Jeans Style” for its reworked diagonal patchwork wide jeans from PETA Germany after proving that it is 100 percent vegan.
What are your distribution points? The brand is sold in 12 shops around the world and is also listed on the FARFETCH platform. It is represented in Japan, China, Singapore, the US, the Netherlands, the UK, Bulgaria, and Estonia. Who are your typical customers? Brave, freedom loving, and straightforward people. They are conscious people who are aware of nature and personal expression. Our customers include Nina Kraviz, Kourtney Kardashian, Sita Abellan, Julia Fox, Nicki Minaj, Liza Owen, Maye Musk, and others. Which fashion industry trends do you integrate into the brand? TTSWTRS, together with the biggest international digital retailer DressX, created a joint collection for the Metaverse. This means we were the first Ukrainian brand that created an AR capsule with DressX. What were your most famous collaborations? The brand created an NFT video to save the shores of Patagonia, a movie called “Mission” dedicated to the earth. The team presented it at an auction on the eco-friendly platform Truesy. All the money raised from the sale will go to Parley for the Oceans, an ecological organisation dedicated to the protection of the oceans. TTSWTRS, Kyiv/Ukraine (relocated to Europe), info@ttswtrs.com, www.ua.ttswtrs.com
Kseniaschnaider, Kyiv/Ukraine (relocated to Uzhhorod/Ukraine), info@kseniaschnaider.com, https://www.kseniaschnaider.com/ style in progress
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A very personal, womenswear-focused selection from hundreds of Ukrainian fashion brands. Style and philosophy are very different in each case. The common denominator: all style in progress picks are already known beyond the borders of Ukraine.
COMFORTABLE AND AFFORDABLE Marchi.
CONCEPTUAL
Dzhus. Founded by Irina Dzhus in 2010,
CONTEMPORARY & FUN Blood & Honey.
Founded in 2015 by Lidiya Pfayfer, the brand is known for colourful fur, both contemporary and fun. The label’s pieces resemble artworks that cheer up the wearer and reveal a fine sense of style. The fur undergoes a complicated hand-dying process and is then subjected to appliqué work and perforation. The manufacturing process takes between two to four weeks. The brand upcycles vintage fur and the production process utilises stock leftovers. Blood & Honey has points of sale in the US, Spain, Latvia, Kazakhstan, the UAE, and Italy. The list of its famous customers includes Beyonce, Leandra Medin, Winnie Harlow, Gisele Oliviera, Nikki Taylor, Deandra Forest, and Caroline Vreeland. Blood & Honey, Kyiv/Ukraine, blood.honey.fur@gmail.com, www.blood-honey.com
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the brand specialises in innovative, multipurpose wardrobe items made of cruelty-free materials in zero-waste, wearable packaging. By offering unprecedentedly transformable designs, including clothing that transforms into accessories, Dzhus fulfils its vision of sustainable consumption: significant limitation of physical shopping through versatile use of transformable outfits, offering endless style potential. The brand is sold in Japan, China, the US, Portugal, the UAE, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, and Australia. The typical Dzhus customer is a nonconformist intellectual in search of the perfect shell for their unique inner worlds, such as Onuka, Jamala, Alina Pash, Irena Karpa, Abraham Brody, and Zola Jesus. Fashion by Dzhus were worn in movies such as The Hunger Games and Star Trek Discovery. Dzhus, Kyiv/Ukraine, irinadzhus@gmail.com, www.irinadzhus.com
Founded by Valeria Marchi and Tasha Kuhar in 2012, the uniqueness of the brand lies in its universality. It is intended for both young girls and women. The price range is more than acceptable given the high quality level of the collection. Marchi is proud to be a Ukrainian brand, but is also sold in Australia, the US, Germany, and Kazakhstan. The pieces are worn by Ukrainian celebrities Olga Sumska, Katya Osadcha, and Yulia Sanina, as well as international stars Jiyoung Kim, Amy Bell, Alicia Banilivy, Estelle Chemouny, Abby Silverman, and Kat Von D. The brand manufactures in Ukraine, ensuring extended lifespan due to the use of quality fabrics. The brand’s philosophy also entails sustainability and recycling. Marchi, Kyiv/Ukraine, marketing.marchi@gmail.com, https://store.marchi.com.ua/
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LIMITED UPCYCLING Oversized
. Located in Kyiv, the brand stores part of its collection in STUDIO183’s showroom in Berlin. Founded in 2018 by Olga Boncheva, it is mostly known as an upcycling brand. Every collection is limited because it does not use new fabrics for production. All pieces are made of vintage suits, trousers, and shirts, which are sourced from outlets, resale platforms, and second-hand suppliers around the world. The brand’s customers are aware of conscious consumption and prefer it to fast fashion. Oversized, Kyiv/Ukraine, the.oversized@gmaill.com, www.theoversized.com
STYLISH OUTERWEAR Nebesite.
Founded by Tatiana Mogilain in 2018, the mono-brand exclusively specialises in outerwear. It promotes sustainability and innovations, which are integrated into their pieces, while also collaborating with Ukrainian artists to create bright designs. Their typical customer is a 27 to 45-year-old woman who desires to look stylish and feel comfortable. Famous clients include Ukrainian celebrities and artists such as Tina Karol, Anna Andres, Dasha Astafyeva, and Jamala. Nebesite, Kyiv/Ukraine, nebesite.clothes@gmail.com, www.nebesite.com
INSPIRED BY ARCHITECTURE Paskal
. Founded by Julie and Olga Paskal in 2013, the brand is known for its gentle silhouettes and minimalistic forms, which resemble innovative architecture and nature. Beauty stems from main components and clothing structure, as laser cutting lies in the DNA of the brand. This results in sensual design with strong individuality. In 2016, Paskal was showcased at Colette Paris and participated in the Paris Fashion Week. The brand has been listed by more than 50 retailers around the world since then. Famous clients include Sarah Andelman, Bjork, Monica Bellucci, Katy Perry, and Paris Hilton. Paskal exclusively uses certified fabrics. The design approach and quality standards ensure stock optimisation. The brand’s sustainability and modernity are also reflected in Paskal’s digital clothes sales on DressX. Paskal, Odessa & Lviv/Ukraine, Halle/ Germany, press@paskalclothes.com, www.paskalclothes.com
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BRIGHT BASICS Sayya.
TIMELESS IN ALL SETTINGS Bobkova.
Founded by Kristina Bobkova in 2000, the brand is loved and sold in Hong Kong, Kuwait, the US, Ukraine, and Germany. Its key features include sustainability. Recycling trends are integrated into the brand’s production philosophy, as every piece is made of recycled garments from previous collections and old fabrics. The idea of providing timeless fashion for all occasions is deeply engrained in its DNA. The brand is very popular among Ukrainian models and TV personalities such as Alla Kostromicheva, Tina Karol, and Onuka, and is also worn by Maye Musk. Bobkova, Kyiv/Ukraine (relocated to Germany), sales@bobkova.com.ua, www.bobkova.com.ua
DELIBERATELY FEMININE Gudu.
Founded in 2015 by Julia Kostetska, Lasha Mdinaradze, GUDU creates exclusive high-quality clothing for women who are not afraid to attract attention with unusual clothes featuring complex, strictly cut, and bright details. The brand is an advocate of sustainable design and does not use natural leather. For the SS22 and AW22/23 collections, GUDU used old jeans and other reusable elements to create new styles, over and over again. The uniqueness of GUDU lies in its vision of the woman that wears the apparel it creates. The brand is represented in Tsum Kyiv, GUM Select Kharkiv (both Ukraine), Ammos Mykonos (Greece), Gallery Gazette Tokyo (Japan), WEI STUFF SPACE Taiyuan, V+ Shanghai, and Pin Xu (all China). Among its famous clients are David Vazquez Louzao (Spain), Karine Vanasse (Canada), and Law Roach (US). Gudu, Kyiv/Ukraine, info@gudu.ua, www.gudu.ua
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Founded by Luba Makarenko in 2012, the brand presents a concept of bright basics. Inspired by looks of the past, it revamps a basic wardrobe by adding ironic prints or eccentric details. Buyers represent SAYYA in London/UK, Los Angeles/US, and in showrooms in Georgia and Azerbaijan. The brand has also signed a contract with a European marketplace. The brand does not use natural fur and leather, and it applies patchwork technology in design and production. Among its famous clients are Jamala, Young Emperors, Blair Eadie, Nino Basilaya, Victoria Lamala, Aori Nishimura, and Sophi Reynolds. Sayya, Kyiv/Ukraine (relocated to Georgia), sayya.sales@gmail.com, www.sayya.ua
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SOPHISTICATED ACCESSORIES Vikele Studio.
Founded in 2017 by Victoria Klimenko and Olena Polkovska, the Ukrainian fashion brand delivers exquisite accessories in classic colours, expressive textures, and concise design. The mood board features archival photos of Jane Birkin and Catherine Deneuve, as well as footage from Jean-Luc Godard and Bernardo Bertolucci movies alongside modern art. The brand’s range includes bags for casual days, as well as small handbags and clutches for parties. Spacious models titled Gràcia and Affair can easily fit a laptop and other important items for living in a large city. Each Vikele Studio bag is unique, as it is created by hand by the brand’s in-house craft masters; they take 10 to 30 working hours to complete. Vikele Studio, Kyiv/Ukraine (relocated to EU), studio@vikele.com, www.vikele.com
SUSTAINABLE HEMP DevoHome.
GENDER FLUID Katerina Kvit.
Founded in 2012 by Katerina Kvit, the brand offers women’s suits in men’s styles alongside high-quality leather goods. It is represented in an LA-based store, listed on online platforms Farfetch, Sezzona, Clothia, and Stilius, and stocked by American angelforfashion.com. Its clothing is intended for the self-confident woman who likes to hide her femininity behind men’s jackets and showcase her sexuality by wearing leather tops. The concept of sustainability is supported by manufacturing clothing that lasts for many seasons. Katerina Kvit, Kyiv/Ukraine (relocated to Western Ukraine, Paris/France, Vienna/Austria), e-mail@katerinakvit.com, www.katerinakvit.com
Founded by Oksana Devoe in 2003, the family-owned company, a producer of hemp textiles, exclusively manufacturers garments made of natural textiles. It is the first in the world to produce hemp fur. The focus lies on modern conscious customers who value ecology and their own health. The brand is sold in Europe, the US, and Japan. DevoHome, Kyiv/Ukraine (relocated to the Netherlands), Oksana_devoe@omke.com, www.devohome.com
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THE COAT BY KATYA SILCHENKO
PERFECT FIT
In 2014, Katya Silchenko started to create bright collections focusing on femininity. Thanks to the unique cut, honed over many years, The Coat pieces fit perfectly, emphasising the silhouette flatteringly. Katya skilfully combines bright details, using bold accents of feathers, eco-leather, combinations of different textures, ruffles, and prints. She personally selects fabrics and decorative elements herself. The collections always feature already recognisable coats, corsets, bustier dresses, and high-waisted items. Where is your brand sold around the globe? Previously, the brand cooperated with an international distributor and was represented in countries of Europe and the Middle East, including Kazakhstan, Kuwait, Czech Republic, and Italy. At the moment, The Coat is a self-selling fashion brand. Clothes are sold directly to customers around the world through a unique form of communication style loved by all our clients. However, since the war in Ukraine began, we have received lots of business proposals and now you can buy The Coat at Fiacchini in Forte dei Marmi. The brand is on the list of favourites of Ukrainian First Lady Elena Zelenska. Global celebrities also order The Coat: Maye Musk, Rita Ora, Amanda Steele, Kelly Rutherford, Viky Rader, and other international bloggers. What trends within the fashion industry – such as sustainable production, environmental aspects, or processing – do you integrate into your brand? The Coat by Katya Silchenko covers several angles. By combining a mindful client-oriented approach, sustainability, and recognisable design, the brand has struck a chord with people who subscribe to the concept of clothes as companions. The customers prefer quality and originality over quantity. The Coat has used eco-leather for its last seasons, as well as digitally printed natural fabrics. Less consumption and the absence of overproduction are philosophies The Coat values. All collections pursue a Mix&Match concept. The quantity of items is controlled and manufactured according to demand based on a pre-order system, which was launched at the beginning of 2014. Did you enter any collaborations? Which of them is the most famous? The Coat is well-known for its collaborations. The latest one is “Stand with Ukraine” with NOOVA. This collaboration is a collection of unisex shoes in the shade of Ukrainian symbols. The Coat is a Ukrainian brand for women. By purchasing a pair, people will not only wear the most comfortable shoes of their lives, but they also lend a helping hand to Ukrainian women during wartime. The proceeds will be forwarded directly to Ukrainian women who find themselves in a difficult financial situation. The Coat by Katya Silchenko, Kyiv & Lviv/Ukraine, thecoat.office@gmail.com, https://thecoat.com.ua
SHUR SHUR
KNIT TED STOCKINGS
Designer Anna Savchuk founded the brand in 2018 and was the first in the world to invent knitted stockings, made in Italy from the finest yarn, namely certified eco-cotton ZERO, that mirrors its sustainability approach. What current industry trends do you follow? The Limited 2021 collection of Shur was made out of recycled yarn. We also created the first fragrance for stockings called Hug Me, which we apply before packing the pieces. Shur supports the sustainability trend by producing at a factory in Italy that has been working with international brands for 70 years. They utilise eco-yarn ZERO with an international quality certification (Oeko-Tex, Cotton for Life) and some of the garments are made of recycled yarn. What are your geographical sales areas? The brand is represented in 15 countries around the world. Shur, Kyiv/Ukraine (relocated to Western Ukraine, designer in Paris), hello@shurshur.com, https://shurshur.com/uk/ 230
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FASHION
F u t u r e & F r e e do m
DIGITAL UKRAINE
Not only a manufacturing and fashion nation: Ukrainian players are also among the international avant-garde in the young market segment of digital fashion.
3D LOOK
CROSSING BOUNDARIES
3D Look offers the first and only virtual fitting room that bridges the gap between physical and digital shopping, and fully recreates the dressing room experience online. 3D Look had an R&D team of 70 in Ukraine before setting up an office in Warsaw, while the rest of the team is spread out over the US, the UK, and other European countries. Launched in 2016 by Vadim Rogovskiy, co-founder and Chief Executive Officer, Whitney Cathcart, co-founder and Chief Strategy Officer, and Ivan Makeev, co-founder and Chief Scientific Officer, the solution, developed based on feedback from hundreds of businesses and thousands of customers, helps fight high return rates in e-commerce. How does the technology work? Vadim Rogovskiy, CEO 3D Look: With YourFit, shoppers simply choose a clothing item on a brand’s website, take two snaps, and from there the solution instantly generates feedback on what size would fit best and allows the shopper to try it on virtually. It offers a unique personalised product recommendation carousel with AI-picked items based on the shopper’s body shape and measurements, fit preference, inventory, and best-sellers, basically replicating the sales associate – something that was previously not possible online. Finally, it allows shoppers to share what they tried on via socials with a single click. Com-
bined, it is the only solution to fully recreate – or even exceed – the fitting room experience. 3D Look works with more than 100 brands across the world, and the client portfolio includes high-profile fashion giants as well as young and trendy digital-first brands. Over the years, some of the biggest names in retail, including Tailored Brands and Dickies, have tapped into 3D Look’s solutions. Who are your clients? Innovative and forward-thinking fashion brands and retailers who are on a mission of creating a more sustainable world like Bettter, a Ukrainian brand founded by Julie Pelipas, and Date of Birth, a multi brand sustainability and inclusivity focused marketplace founded by Levi’s, Restoration Hardware, Sephora and Farfetch alumni Wes McCaw, and Noah Treshnell. Another customer is Careste, a sustainable on-demand luxury fashion brand founded by
Celeste Markey and Elizabeth Rickard Shah, two fashion luxury veterans with backgrounds at iconic brands such as Giorgio Armani, Sonia Rykiel, and Bulgari. YourFit by 3D Look solves the problems mentioned above and helps brands and retailers reduce product returns, subsequent emissions from reverse logistics, and textile waste. 3D Look, Nadya.movchan.3dlook.me, https://3dlook.me
NEO PARADIGM
3D SHOWROOM Founded by Elena Semenenko in 2020, the last collection Drifting Diatoms was created exclusively for DressX, as well as the NFT look META PUNK for NFT platform Artisant.io. Every collection addresses society, highlighting important ecological and political problems. All projects involving virtual clothing have carbon emissions formula indicators, specially developed by the designer. Public figures order digital garments for their social profiles to raise awareness for ecological problems. The pieces are represented on the platforms DressX, Replicant, and Artisant. NEO Paradigm, Kharkiv/Ukraine (relocated to Vienna/Austria), neoparadigm.digital@gmail.com, www.neoparadigm.digital
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BACK FOR
D
G OO
Community hub, meeting place, and refuge – in the truest celebrating an incredible comeback. Crowded streets and ever, no longer considered the best-case scenario. Smart business model on customers who happen to drop in at the
sense of the word. Retail is hordes of people are, how retailers stopped basing their door a long time ago anyway.
Text: Isabel Faiss, Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek, Martina Müllner-Seybold, Kay Alexander Plonka, Veronika Zangl
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Sabine Schwarz and her daughter Laura Schwarz love providing personal advice.
Timeless yet special: there is much to discover at Schwarz The Fashion Concept.
SCHWARZ THE FASHION CONCEPT/KASSEL
Immediate Impact
Photos: Schwarz The Fashion Concept
“S
pontaneous ideas are always best,” says Laura Schwarz. She had just completed her fashion and design management degree at AMD Düsseldorf when her mother, Sabine Schwarz, and she were offered a vacant space in Kassel’s prestigious Vorderer Westen district. “Given that self-employment runs in the family, we jumped at the chance,” the 27-year-old explains. The mother-daughter team launched their concept store in August 2018 and made an immediate impact on the Kassel audience. Fashion, especially for women, plays the leading role. “Our style is timeless and casual, but is made special by fabric and prints,” says Schwarz. An additional twist is provided by modern silhouettes, which is why Citizen of Humanity jeans are anything but skinny. Silk dresses and blouses by Ulla Johnson or Forte Forte add femininity and distinction, complemented by brands like Arma and Vince. The collection manages to surprise with innovations every season, not least with sneakers by Golden Goose. Anything beyond fashion can also be regarded as the owners’ personal pick: extraordinary costume jewellery by Feidt Paris and Marie Laure Chamorel alongside the German-made beauty series by Dr Barbara Sturm. In terms of food, the store offers treats such as various flavours of roasted sesame by Rheingold or cocktails by Ely of Paris. Just add some ice cubes! The mother-daughter duo has proven emphatically that sales via Instagram and pre-selected sample packages are viable alternatives in the lockdown era. Nevertheless, both enjoy face-to-face interaction in the store most. “We are known for authentic, honest guidance. When we advise as a team, we each bring our individual perspective,” smiles Schwarz. “Our customers really appreciate that.”
Schwarz The Fashion Concept Lassallestrasse 11, Kassel/Germany www.schwarzthefashionconcept.com Opening: August 2018 Owner: Laura Schwarz Sales area: 160sqm Brands for women: among others Arma, Citizens of Humanity, Forte Forte, Golden Goose, Harris Wharf, Lisa Yang, Maiami, Nili Lotan, nine:inthe:morning, Roberto Collina, Seductive, Sminfinity, Stouls, Ulla Johnson, Vince, Windsor Brands for men: among others Arma, C.P. Company, Duno, Harris Wharf, Kiefermann, nine:inthe:morning, Roberto Collina, The Nim, Thom Krom, Scaglione Non-fashion brands: among others Dr Barbara Sturm, Ely, Feidt Paris, Jonathan Adler, Lakrids by Bülow, Maria la Rosa, Marie Laure Chamorel, Officine Creative, Pur Schoen, Serax, Studio Original
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Mechtild Hoffs shares the management duties of the store with her daughter-in-law Kim Hoffs. “Her strength lies in providing structure, while my strength is ensuring cohesion within the team,” the store owner explains.
A statement in favour of change by Anna - Das bin ich: a large area was given a contemporary makeover with a special synthetic resin floor.
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ANNA - DAS BIN ICH/BOCHOLT
Family Business
Photos: Anna – Das bin ich
Mechtild Hoffs and her team combine the seemingly incompatible: an animal hotel and a fashion store. The combination lends the fashion concept its solid grounding.
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ubber boots or high heels? As Mechtild Hoffs has decided to embrace two very different worlds, her answer is: “Sneakers!” She and her family run the Binnenheide animal hotel on her parents’ farm where she grew up, and the Anna - Das bin ich fashion store. The latter is a reference to Hoffs’ middle name. The fashion store is therefore a personal statement. “We are sporty-casual, yet also willingly unconventional,” she muses. “We attempt to maximise the individuality of our looks and are brave enough to combine outfits others may never have imagined.” Hoffs is happiest when the 700-square-metre store is bustling with life. At weekends, she can be found at the store’s café bar, enjoying a chat with customers while their children hang out in the supervised children’s corner. Change is essential, making regular redecorations necessary. A large area underwent a refresh just last autumn. The carpet made way for a specially
cast floor, replacing fine elegance with contemporary coolness. All the work was carried out by local craftsmen because the shopkeeper is keen on strengthening her community, which is why, as chairwoman of Bocholt’s advertising association, she also cooperates closely with the city administration. She is equally committed to the store originally founded by her parents-inlaw, the team of which Hoffs describes as one big family in its own right. “We care about fashion, but ultimately it is the people who count,” Hoffs emphasises, referring to suppliers, customers, friends, and the three apprentices who complete the Anna family. The fact that the store also stocks magnetic field blankets for horses and dogs by Nicole Löw is typical for Anna. The same holds true for the frequent redesign of all areas. At one time, the store sold the best bread in town. On other days, the team cooked for the customers or integrated a dedicated cosmetics section. The latest projects involve an online shop and the expansion of menswear. Boots by Blundstone marked the beginning, now Better Rich is following suit.
Anna – Das bin ich Nordstrasse 24-30, Bocholt/Germany www.anna-hoffs.de Opening: 1948 Owner: Mechtild Hoffs Sales area: 700sqm Redesign: Instant Retail, Julia Betting Brands for women: American Vintage, 7 for all Mankind, Cambio, Closed, Dawn, Dorothee Schumacher, Drykorn, FFC, Giorgio Brato, G-Lab, JNBY, Lareida, Montereggi, Parajumpers, Philli, Replime, The Mercer N.Y., True Religion Brands for men: Alto Milano, Better Rich, Blundstone, Xpooos Accessories brands: Anokhi, Autry Action Shoes, Baobab, Copenhagen, Friendly Hunting, GH Bass, Gluckigluck, Green factory, item m6, mey, Purschoen, Premiata, Upbeads, Valsport
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SOCIÉTÉ ANONYME/FLORENCE
Those who want to enter here need to ring the bell first: Société Anonyme in Florence boasts worldwide insider status. A retail insider tip out of a picture book.
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he name of this store in Florence’s bohemian Sant’Ambrogio district pays homage to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy Guggenheim’s New York avant-garde art gallery Société Anonyme. Dadaism, as well as art in general, can be both seen and sensed in every single detail in Massimiliano Giannelli’s business. Upon entering, via a door hidden beneath historic arches, one immediately notices that this place is different. Visitors are required to ring the bell to gain access; the door is not opened by salespeople, but by charming trend experts. This 236
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ultimately proves that a visit to Société Anonyme is not about quick spending, but rather about an experience. The deliberately raw and reduced store design is inspired by the underground communities of neighbourhoods such as Shoreditch, Prenzlauerberg, and Williamsburgh. White, bare walls highlight the merchandise and allow it to speak for itself – like pieces of art, in fact. “I spent a lot of time in Berlin in the late 1990s and was so impressed by the city. That mix of the old and worn-out with new and fresh elements, that sexiness from back then, is what inspired me when I set up the store,” says Giannelli. The fact that some time has passed since the opening in 1999 is not reflected in the store’s appearance. This may be attributable to the exciting assortment. Here, international brands like Margiela, Marni, and Dries van Noten coexist harmoniously with niche brands like in-house brand Société Anonyme. The latter offers both
men’s and women’s collections, but also unisex pieces. The looks echo the mood of the store: young, unconventional, and easy to wear. The entire collection, exclusively “Made in Florence”, is sold in the store, online, and via Farfetch.
Société Anonyme Via Giovan Battista Niccolini 3/F, Florence/Italy, www.societeanonyme.it Opening: 1999 Owner: Massimiliano Giannelli Sales area: 300sqm Brands: Adidas Original, Ami Paris, Andersson Bell, Closed, Comme de Garçon, Cote et Ciel, Dries Van Noten, Erl, Henrik Vibsokov, High Sky Farm, Junya Watanabe, Kenzo, Levi’s Made & Crafted, Maison Kitsuné, Maison Margiela, Marni, New Balance, Paccbet/Rassvet, Patagonia, Société Anonyme, Stussy, Universal Work, Vans Vault
Photos: Société Anonyme
Fashion Meets Dada
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The 300-square-metre store feels almost too cool for school. Located in the heart of Florence, it offers a perfect mix of carefully selected high-end collections and underground niche brands.
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Top Chic marks this year’s 50th anniversary by presenting itself fresh and renewed after a makeover.
Fashion expert Alexandra Schütz’s personality is deeply ingrained in her store concept.
Everything Here Is So New!
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t represents a fresh appearance, featuring plenty more daylight. Alexandra Schütz saw the renovation of her boutique as akin to a new beginning. The changes were rather minor, but with all the more effect. “The lighting system was updated. We also re-wallpapered a corner in the store and added a rack system for long dresses,” says the shop owner. “I did a lot of the work myself, which felt really great! Working in the store has a completely different feel to it now.” What about the product range? It follows its own individual path, especially as it is becoming increasingly important for the fashion expert from Traunstein to reject limits imposed by brands. The looks represent her personal look that the Top Chic customers adore: casual with a twist. Schütz is inspired by fresh prints by Odeeh, blouses and dresses by Soeur and Second Female, timeless fashion by Susanne Bommer, and knitwear by 360 Cashmere, to name but a few examples. “I attach great
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importance to a mix of different price ranges so that every customer can find something suitable,” emphasises Schütz. Besides, she strives for Top Chic to symbolise fit competence, which is proven by the diverse range of trousers, featuring brands such as Nine in the Morning alongside jeans by Dawn and Shaft. “This guarantees I always have the right pair of trousers for every customer in stock, even in sizes 42 and 44.” Schütz does not consider herself a typical fashion influencer, yet she started presenting herself on Instagram in ever-changing outfits to inspire her customers in 2020. “I really enjoy it now, and it is part of the overall concept,” Schütz smiles. Posting a photo on Instagram attracts customers to the store on the very same day. That is the definition of customer loyalty. Those further afield from Traunstein simply order via Instagram directly. “This aspect still harbours enormous potential for me, so I intend to expand my reach even further,” Schütz explains.
Photos: Top Chic
TOP CHIC/TRAUNSTEIN
Top Chic Gapstr. 4, Traunstein/Germany, Instagram: @Topchic.fashion Opening: 1972 Owner: Alexandra Schütz Sales area: 80sqm Brands for women: Allude, American Vintage, Aniven, Susanne Bommer, 360 Cashmere, Caliban, Dawn, Me369, Nine in the Morning, Odeeh, Ottod’Ame, Shaft, Save the Duck, Soeur, Second Female, The White Shirt, WarmMe
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GLÜXMOMENT /WELS
Straight to the Heart
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appiness can be defined by many things, not least a charming concept store in the centre of Wels. The location of Glüxmoment is truly in the heart of the city. “It was important to me to choose a name that has a positive connotation and makes customers smile,” explains owner Ingrid Piber. After 30 years in textile procurement, she has fulfilled a long-held dream by opening her own store. The assortment is extensive, ranging from accessories to fashion that appeals to both young and more senior customers. Piber focuses primarily on Scandi fashion. “The strong influence of Italian brands on the industry has persisted for a long time. I intend to emphasise a different trend and show something new featuring clear, purist lines.” Slow fashion and sustainability are priorities. In this respect, Piber can rely on the support of her daughter, who occasionally accompanies her on buying trips and provides a younger input. The original city wall from the 12th century, on the other hand, is the source of the store’s special flair. It runs right through the second salesroom. The first comprises a vault that was adapted with the help of interior design expert Eveline Sperl and now features reusable wallpaper, also known as a room dress.
After raising a child and spending 30 years in textile procurement, Ingrid Piber bravely embarked on a new adventure when she launched her own concept store in 2018.
Photos: Glüxmoment
Bright interior, purist vault, and an original city wall in the second salesroom: Glüxmoment in Wels strikes right to the heart.
Glüxmoment Pfarrgasse 15, 4600 Wels/Austria, www.gluexmoment.at Opening: 6th of September 2018 Owner: Ingrid Piber Sales area: 120sqm Brands: Jane Lushka, Kooduu Lautsprecher, LeJu London, Looops Kerzen, PD Paola, Pernille Corydon, Raffaello Rossi, Rosemunde Copenhagen, Someday, Sompex Outdoor Leuchte, Suncoo Paris
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Photos: Live Lab Studios
Holistic space and refuge merge with retail space and popup salons.
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LIVE LAB STUDIOS/DÜSSELDORF
Experiencing Luxury Anew Fashion designer Stephanie Hahn has opened a green luxury concept store and open space in a picturesque backyard in Düsseldorf’s Loretto district, where the combination of design, fashion, art, culture, and cosmetics celebrates a new kind of value and sustainability.
Live Lab Studios redefines personal luxury.
ive Lab Studios is meant to be a place that encourages discourse about the world of tomorrow, where luxury and retail are redefined. This is where special interest collides with the socially relevant issue of sustainability,” explains Stephanie Hahn. And so, with a conscious commitment to design, art, high-end fashion, interior, and beauty, the Düsseldorf-born designer has dedicated herself to promoting a new approach to shopping. On around 200 square metres, visitors encounter products and ideas by visionaries of our time, designed and manufactured in outstanding quality with subtlety and respect for humankind and the environment. Given that Live Lab Studios regards itself as a platform and meeting place, it also hosts innovative workshops, readings, dinners, or art projects and events such as live meditation or pop-up salons. The carefully and mindfully compiled portfolio features both national and international brands. The massive Melting Pot Table made of artfully recycled plastic by Dutch top designer
Dirk Vander Kooij, for example, is juxtaposed with mouthblown Textured Glass objects by Jochen Holz. Organically shaped ceramics by Berlin artist Kirsten Landwehr rub shoulders with hand-knotted carpets made of designer fabrics from major French fashion houses by Calla Paris. The store also stocks knitwear from South Africa, high-end tailoring pieces by in-house label 22/4_Hommes_ Femmes, and precious upcycled unique pieces by Japanese brand Children of the Discordance. Sustainable sneakers made of paper, leather, or glass by Nat-2 coexist with luxurious handbags by German brand Lutz Morris. High-quality natural cosmetics and handmade candles by Düsseldorf-based artist Malte van der Meyden complete the range.
Live Lab Studios Fürstenwall 66, Düsseldorf/ Germany, www.livelabstudios.com Opening: August 2020 Owner: Stephanie Hahn Brands: among others Amen Candles, Calla Paris, Evermore London, E With Love, HAP Ceramics, KL Keramik, Maxhosa Africa, New Tendency, Ormaie Paris, Pepe Heykoop, Studio Alch
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Gucci has found a new home in Bolzano: the Franz Kraler luxury multi-brand store on Via Leonardo da Vinci.
Franz and Daniela Kraler are delighted to finally own an urban shop window in Bolzano.
FRANZ KRALER/BOLZANO
Urban & Rural
The Kraler family from Dobbiaco, who have rewritten the fashion history of the Dolomites over the last 30 years, are considered fashion royalty in Italy. Their five luxury boutiques in Cortina D’Ampezzo and Dobbiaco have been among the most important destination shops in the world since they opened in 1986.
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t Franz Kraler, the term crème de la crème applies equally to product range and customer base. The Kraler Schloss even features a helipad for those who travel from afar to seek advice on the latest trends from the most renowned fashion houses. In 2021, in the midst of Italy’s second major lockdown, husband and wife Daniela and Franz, alongside their son Alexander, decided to open their first urban – and thus their fifth – multi-brand store. A venture into new territory, as the Kralers stepped out of their well-known luxu-
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Photos: Franz Kraler
Straight lines and bright design – this is where the collections by luxury brands such as Gucci, Prada, or Fendi really come into their own.
ry nucleus in the Dolomites for the first time. The new store is located in South Tyrol’s capital, Bolzano. “Our ambition in opening the first shop in the mountains was to bring the flair of urban cities like Miami to Cortina. The launch in Bolzano allowed us to expand the urban concept even further. It was important to us to send a message. We wanted to take a step towards the people of Bolzano, to offer them an opportunity to buy luxury
products in their environment,” says Franz Kraler. Conceived as a contemporary gallery where the collections by the most influential international luxury brands are the art, customers can view curated product ranges in the typical Kraler style. Daniela Kraler, who is responsible for procurement, even allows her customers to partake in the glamour of the brands via social media during her order trips. Architecturally, the new Franz Kraler store is yet another
spectacle. While subtle and dominated by lighting and clean lines, one immediately senses its exceptional nature. The fact that the furnishings fade into the background is owed to a new passion of the Kralers: the family has started producing artistically sophisticated fashion short films – another coup for the South Tyrolean fashion dynasty.
Franz Kraler Via Leonardo Da Vinci 4, Bolzano/Italy, www.franzkraler.com, IG: @franzkraler Opening: December 2021 Owner: Kraler family Sales area: 250sqm Brands: Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Brunello Cucinelli, Fendi, Gucci, Louboutin, Prada, Valentino
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KLEIDER MACHEN LEUTE & IN THE BOX/LINZ
First Movers
The advantage of being an early adopter is that you emerge as a local hero. The two stores Kleider Machen Leute and In the Box have managed exactly that: to be the undisputed number one in sustainable fashion.
Two stores in Linz’s Herrenstrasse and an online shop dedicated to sustainable fashion: Anita Katzengruber and Christian Huber are Upper Austria’s sustainable fashion pioneers.
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with sustainable criteria,” says Anita Katzengruber. Her partner Christian Huber adds: “We do not consider sustainable and fair fashion to be a trend, but a philosophy of life.” All the more important that there is sufficient time for real interaction in both premises. “Our stores are located in a very lively street. There is a lot going on here. People meet, and we organise street festivals with the other shops, cafés, and restaurants,” says Anita Katzengruber. Informal exchange works wonders. As a result, the Kleider Machen Leute duo were among the first to learn that another retail space had become available on Herrenstrasse – an ideal location for In the Box. “Because footwear requires much more in-depth advice,” says Christian Huber, and Anita Katzengruber adds with a laugh: “And you need to find time to lace up the Veja shoes, which are all unlaced in the boxes.” When Kleider Machen Leute recently underwent a facelift, it was not closed for a single day owing to a pop-up outlet. This is proof of the team’s perfect organisational skills. Anita Katzengruber: “We used the lockdowns not only to advance our digital strategy, but also to professionalise as managers. We now both have clearly defined areas of responsibility, which positively inspires teamwork.”
Kleider Machen Leute Herrenstrasse 14, Linz/Austria, shop@kleidermachenleute.at, www.kleidermachenleute.at In the Box, Herrenstrasse 2, Linz/ Austria, store@inthebox.at Owners: Anita Katzengruber, Christian Huber Opening: 2008 (Kleider Machen Leute), 2018 (In the Box) Brands: ArmedAngels, Blutsgeschwister, Colorful Standard, Derbe, Dillysocks, Freitag, Got Bag, LangerChen, My Marini, Nudie Jeans, Organic Basic, Saye, Veja
Photos: Kleider Machen Leute
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hey are true pioneers: Anita Katzengruber and Christian Huber have been paving the way for slow fashion and sustainable clothing in the Upper Austrian capital since 2008. The corner shop, with its striking façade, was a personal dream location for the Kleider Machen Leute founders, and when it became available in 2008, they jumped at the chance without thinking twice. The delicate beginnings have blossomed into a permanent fixture within Linz’s retail landscape, and in 2018 they opened In the Box, their own sneakers and bag store, just a few doors down. The couple’s enthusiasm for sustainability is contagious: a genuine labour of love and passion. Well-known slow fashion icons such as Veja or Ecoalf are consequently only one pillar of their business: young, undiscovered labels also find their place in the two stationary stores and the affiliated online shop. “Building a brand is hard work, as we know all too well from personal experience, because we also run a small label in line
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Kleider Machen Leute opened in 2008 and recently underwent a facelift. Just a few doors down, In the Box specialises in shoes and bags.
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Photos: Run Colors
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RUN COLORS/WARSAW
“Our Product Range Is Custom-Made” With its very first store in Warsaw’s city centre, the Run Colors team added its name to the list of top international destinations for selective sneaker drops and tier zero accounts in 2009. Another at an historic address was launched last summer.
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heir credo has always been to do things differently. “We always try to customise the range to the specific needs of our customers, like a custom-made product,” explains owner Monika Pietrucha. In the heart of the disused Elektrownia Powiśle power plant – a redevelopment project that won the MIPIM Award 2021 – the team opened another store last summer. The high standard of the product range is their hallmark. “We aim to appeal to very different customer profiles. On the one hand, there is Gen Z, which entails fast-moving, social media-driven, and highly demanding customers. On the other hand, there are old-school sneaker fans of Generation X. They grew up in the 90s and love originals.” Reflecting on the rapidly consolidating sneaker market in Poland, the entrepreneur reveals her vision: “We are closely monitoring Gen Alfa, currently the youngest of its kind, as we are aware that no
generation will have such an impact on our society as this one. The world is truly becoming ‘phygital’ for Gen Alpha: online and offline are intertwined – this needs to be understood and embraced. We are already researching solutions for leveraging Metaverse platforms to engage with our youngest customers and provide Metaverse retail solutions. Yes, we are working on something special.”
Run Colors Dobra 42, Warsaw/Poland www.runcolors.pl Opening: August 2021 Owner: Monika Pietrucha Sales area: 150sqm Brands: among others Champion, Colmar, Hoka One, Lacoste, Merell, Mizuno, New Balance, On Running, Puma, Saucony, Sofix, Toms
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They are already planning something special for Gen Alpha: Monika Pietrucha and Mateusz Pacocha of Run Colors in Warsaw
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EDITOR'S LETTER
The Future Is STILL Wide Open! On the 28th of December 1989, I travelled to Prague with a dear friend. It was a spontaneous trip in the freezing cold. Both of us had the feeling of witnessing a perhaps unique turning point in history first-hand. We ultimately both experienced an unprecedented global transformation that triggered an almost palpable optimism, especially among young people in East and West alike. Democracy and market economy had prevailed over totalitarian repression, and freedom was indisputably enshrined as the highest universal value. The future was wide open! And Tiananmen very far away. “Dall’ altre parte della luna,” as Lucio Dalla would have put it. Today, a few decades later, we find ourselves in the midst of an even more radical transformation. On a global scale – on so many different levels – humanity and the social systems it has created are not merely confronted with challenges, but with truly epochal and disruptive directional decisions. Ultimately, the question is whether freedom, in fact, remains undisputed as a universally supreme value. In retrospect, the fall of the Iron Curtain also marked the unofficial starting point for the transformation of the market economy into a kind of vulgar capitalism, which ultimately, as the accelerant of a globalisation that is not without borders but without boundaries, forced us into precisely those dependencies that make all the obvious challenges seem so immensely complex. The supply chain law, which is based on a fundamentally correct principle that is in no way left-wing, namely the polluter pays principle, is but one example. The attempt to contain the toxic power of social media without resorting to totalitarian means, or without sabotaging the inherent potential of digitalisation and social media as a whole, is
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another. To avoid being misunderstood at this point in particular: I am writing this opinion piece from the perspective of a deeply committed believer in a free market economy, as well as from the perspective of a staunch believer in democracy. And yes… these two convictions are inseparable. Democracy and market economy are the foundations of individual freedom. Both demand active participation to avoid becoming matted and stale. From the current perspective, the corona pandemic, which dominated everything, including our spirit, for two years, seems to have diminished in nature. It was, however, undoubtedly a litmus test and proof of a human quality that should encourage us in current circumstances. Many of us grow with a challenge as it progresses. Personal and entrepreneurial courage, a foundation of non-negotiable values, and creativity and innovation as superior resources will sustain us as we actively manage the current transformation. The future is STILL wide open! However, it depends on people who are willing to shape it. Best regards, Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com
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