Valentina Taglioli and Caterina Venturini, Two/Do
THE FUTURE IS WIDE OPEN!
“NOTHING CAN REPLACE PHYSICAL RETAIL!”
Welcome to these lines.
“Shopping that plays it safe is in stark contrast to our Italian culture of beautiful stores where you can really discover something,” say Caterina Venturini and Valentina Taglioli, the two founders of Two/Do (starting on page 134). A remarkable sentence, especially when applied to our Central European caution and the (lack of) clothing culture here. And one more argument why we chose two makers who work rather in the background for the cover of this issue of style in progress: Because that’s where culture is made - or not.
Culture is not created out of security, because the hope of good numbers is a justified argument, but not an aesthetic leitmotif. The founders of Two/Do go on to say that the dominance of big brands has made it so hard to buy designer brands with their own profile, as parts of a look that is put together by the store, rather than the brand. Only when you give this, admittedly, not new insight, more thought, you’ll understand the price we really pay for it: The loss of a culture. Which, again, is a much greater risk for our market, compared to the Italian one. In German-speaking countries, clothing isn’t as naturally part of the culture as it is there. You can see that every time the economy is on the downswing. Then, in this country, spending on clothing and beautiful things is cut back very quickly here. Spending continues to be part of culture as a matter of course, fashion always risks being put on the back burner. We dedicate this issue to those who are particularly courageous in exposing themselves to this risk. People who, like us at style in progress, care deeply about clothing and its culture.
We hope you enjoy reading this issue, your team from style in progress
151
152
162 “We Want to Inspire” – the female side of Hugo Boss
166
170 “If You Had 100 Children, You Could Never Love All 100 Children the Same” – an interview with Tibi mastermind Amy Smilovic
WHAT HAPPENS WHEN NOBODY WORKS ANYMORE?
How the industry is impacted by skilled labour shortage
232 “We Design the Present with Awareness of the Past – For a Future We Don’t Know” – an interview with the architect of superlative store Wow in Madrid
236 “3D Printing Is on the Cusp of Mainstream Viability” – an interview with Julia Koerner
240 The Answer: smart, digital help in the struggle against skilled labour shortage
246 Entrepreneurial Culture: founders driven by courage, passion, and motivation
251 Lack of Skilled Labour vs Labour Lacking Skill: an opinion piece by Maike Rabe
253 Aest Store/Düsseldorf: New Stage
254 Arnold’s/Vienna: So Much More
256 Cáos Silvia Bini/Viareggio: Deluxe Shopping With a Sea View
257 My Fair Affair: Green Spirit
258 The Qool Store/Düsseldorf: Comprehensive Concept
259 Flow/Florence: Trendsetting
260 Antonia Sant’Andrea/Milan: Two Is Better Than One
262 NeuMann Concept Store/Lippstadt: It’s a Man Thing
263 Kauri/Munich: Living Consciously
264 EDITOR’S LETTER
More Than the Sum of Its Parts
264 ABOUT US
The new scented candle model by the appealing Salzburgbased care brand is called BE EARTH MY FRIEND. It is made by hand in Austria from rapeseed wax and, as the name promises, is particularly grounding. Certified organic essential oil blends in the varieties bitter orange, coriander and vetiver match well. www.besoapmyfriend.com
This is the second sunglasses collection that German fashion label Odeeh has realized together with Viennese eyewear brand Neubau Eyewear. This time the film Phaedra was the inspiration. In continuation of the sustainability concept, the two brands are also presenting a line of accessories made from the plant-based materials left over from eyewear production.
www.odeeh.com, www.neubau-eyewear.com
Via art, design and film to lingerie: the vita of Zodiaque Studios founder Emily Renk is exciting and so is her approach to lingerie. The focus of the collection is on modern sensuality, in terms of materials she relies on Korean silk.
www.zodiaquestudios.com
Soft fabrics in flattering colors and prints: the fact that MOMONI was founded as a label for lingerie is now reflected in a coherent total look with flowing silhouettes. The collection is made in Italy, while at the same time being French-inspired. An alliance that makes the difference not only in the export market France. www.momoni.it
The vegan sandals from Ecoalf are made of recycled rubber, TPU and rubber. The soles made of Phylon, a lightweight and very well cushioning plastic foam, provide a comfortable wearing feeling. The rubber, for example, is recovered from used tires. The recycled TPU reduces the CO2 footprint by at least 30 percent compared to virgin material, often even completely. The credo: a void plastic waste. www.ecoalf.com
East meets West: Les Ottomans awakens the senses with a mix of patterns and exuberant imagination, richly detailed by Bertrando Di Renzo. Where do we start, with the gorgeous pillows and rugs, embroidered tablecloths or handmade ceramics? A table setting from Les Ottomans is a feast, also in a fashion store. www.les-ottomans.com
The 15-year anniversary of the skin care brand L:a Bruket is being celebrated with the limited Angelica series, including a hand & body wash, sea salt scrub, body lotion and a hand cream made from certified and vegan ingredients of angelica sylvestris. Formerly used in Nordic medicine, the medicinal plant has a calming and relaxing effect, while its herbaceous scent relieves cognitive stress.
@labruket
Design and cycling, that connects - also friends PAUL SMITH and Rapha founder SIMON MOTTRAM. What could be more natural than a joint special edition? This includes a range of cycling accessories, an RCC-exclusive jersey in club colors, and a black version with the characteristic Paul Smith stripes. www.paulsmith.com, www.rapha.cc
Socks are all the rage right now, aren‘t they? Start-up Ooley from Bremen proves that you can still reinvent the tennis sock. Pastel and neon shades, a lighter quality and GOTS- or ÖKO-Tex-certified yarns throughout, processed in an Italian family business: those are what speaks for it. The packaging made from recycled paper fits well, too. www.ooley.de
PITTI UOMO
Florence
June 13 - 16, 2023
Fantastic Classic
Pavilion PADIGLIONE
CENTRALE - PIANO TERRA
Booth B/2-4, Area Libera
RAI Amsterdam
July 9 - 10, 2023
Booth TBA
Just in time for its 20th anniversary, KEEN is reissuing its hybrid sandal in monochrome lifestyle colors. The
Originating in 1971 on the beach of St. Tropez, still known today for high-quality and colorful bikinis, swim trunks and beachwear - that’s VILEBREQUIN. CEO Roland Herlory and his team prove that modern luxury should go far beyond durable manufacturing quality by producing the collection using a rush process and out of 80 percent recycled or recyclable materials. @vilebrequin
DERBE, represented by Meta Pesch, stands for outdoor, functionality and top price-performance. Styled cool in functional jackets that stand up to the northern German weather with urban style. Derbe is street fashion for the beautiful moments in life and come with further developments in materials and sustainability - vegan and PETA-certified. www.derbe-hamburg.de
Piazza Sempione brings back the clean chic of the 1990s with lightweight linen and cotton poplin, crêpe and mousseline. Summer pastels are accented with vibrant coral, cyclamen blue, lime and turquoise. A big plus for the casually elegant contemporary wear: The Milan-based company behind it works plastic-free and uses eco-certified materials. www.piazza-sempione.com
She struck a chord with her balaclavas, and now influencer NADINE TOSUN is upping the ante: a drop with casually cut pants is her current thing. The goal: To become a brand.
@nadinetosunlabel
Minimalist, functional and coherent in all details: Duno works with the best material manufacturers in the world, bringing innovation to their collection: a waxed ribstop nylon, for example, whose wear marks can be undone by ironing. For the first time in the collection: a particularly light suede, for example for bombers. www.d-duno.it
Less is more is the motto of the DRYKORN Precollection. In womenswear, shimmering to sparkling looks stand out, for example in gold, bronze or mauve. The cuts draw a new sharpness and in turn highlight the silhouettes. Cleanness and shimmering fabrics also define menswear; further statements are made by suits in a leather look, jacquard knits and a hibiscus print. www.drykorn.com
It takes a village to raise a child! Stroller brand Joolz and Filling Pieces have teamed up to celebrate the diversity of parenthood. A limited edition Joolz stroller comes with a pair of baby sneakers and is inspired by the Filling Pieces Varsity Jacket. Accordingly, it is adorned with handmade patches. @fillingpieces
“Women don’t want high-maintenance bags,” Yasemin Demrici, owner of The Store by Schneeweiss is convinced, and without further ado set out to design her own line of bags suitable for everyday use. FILODEE currently has three models, all have been put through their paces. @filodee_atelier
GORPCORE
Oh April
Back with a bang: jackets and blazers play the leading role in so many collections. For the very best reasons, because a new jacket challenges so many things in your wardrobe. An excellent occasion to get a new wardrobe from head to toe.
If it has to be - the jacket in summer - then please with a lot of glam and glory. Where style comes to the fore and utility takes a back seat, creativity has plenty of new room to play.
The fascination for jackets in which you can brave all weathers is unbroken: outdoor jackets alone have a trade volume of 1.4 billion Euros in Germany, and the distinction between sports and leisure is deliberately blurred. However, function can also be stylish.
Softly flowing, with a wide silhouette and nothing but wow on the inside - when it comes to pants, expertise and tailoring are gamechangers. Specialist brands create products that combine subtle sexiness with a smart everyday practicality.
“Today’s pants must be smart: this is a keyword for every wardrobe, together with quality. A contemporary pant is tailored but soft and relaxed on the leg, with a slightly oversized fit.”
Michela
Gestuz
Le Sarte Pettegole
The.Nim
Gap
Herrlicher
Marc O’Polo Denim
Dondup
Second Female
Sezane
Goldgarn Denim
Munthe
Joop Jeans
Tintoria
Mattei
PNTS
Windsor
Dondup
MM6 Maison Margiela
Orciani
American Vintage
Second Female
Lost in Me
Lofina
Peuterey
Vegtus
Tatras
Marfa Stance
Montereggi
“With Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Piazza Sempione, we are ushering in the new spring/summer 2024 season,” says Anna-Zoi Rybinski. To be ordered in June, shipping will begin in mid-November. “We keep noticing how important an early delivery date is to our customers also for retail, not least for movement on the floors.”
Piazza Sempione combines elegance with the contemporary. The Milan-based company operates sustainably, using certified and recycled yarns for high-quality materials. With Botto Giuseppe Pin 1876, the agency offers a year-round product with pre- and post-orders. “The wide range of colors means that the cashmere scarves can be coordinated very well with other collections. It‘s a no-brainer in summer as well as winter.”
Brands: Annie Paris, Alessandro de Benedetti, Crochè, Kash, Kerry Grima, Max & Moi Paris, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Piazza Sempione, PIN 1876 by Botto Giuseppe, Romeo Gigli www.meier-rybinski.de
Alessia Zamattio, a collection made in Italy specializing in dresses, is new at MAB. “The brand is placed with renowned retailers, including Jades, Unger, Different and Lodenfrey,” says Regis Benabou. “Now the high-end collection is being expanded more broa dly, but still selectively.” In addition, the agency is working on its structure. “We are clearly focusing on our existing brands to suit them and our customers,” says Regis Benabou. Last season, Ed Hardy got off to a successful start. “Streetwear remains the focus of the brand, while their range of accessories is expanded with headwear and shoes. The new collection can be seen again at Seek in Berlin and from July 17 at the MAB Fashion Showroom in Düsseldorf.”
Brands: 3:1 Phillip Lim, Alessia Zamattio, Ba&Sh, Beautiful Struggles, Designers Remix, Ed Hardy, Mes Demoiselles, Steven-K, The Kooples www.mab-fashion.com
Galeria with a positive connotation for a change: The brand with this name originates from Greece and is typical for the portfolio of the Heyde Kamp agency in its love of quality.
“We work with brands that stand out due to their competence, strong character and independent DNA“, say Miriam Hoffmann and HyeWon Weidekamp. In 2022, they founded their agency in Düsseldorf. The focus is on brands that have a long-term perspective. “We look for love of excellent design, quality of fabrics, cuts, silhouettes and exclusive details and colors. Our brands have understood that circular economy is the new global guideline. It is important to us to maintain collaborative and fair relationships, with partners who love what they do as much as we do it,” explain the two founders.
Brands: Ahlvar Gallery, Destin, Filomontini, Galeria, Peoples Republic Of Cashmere, Rosyleia www.heydekamp-fashion.de
After more than ten years in wholesale, in 2022 Ilka Nagelschmitz founded her multibrand and consulting agency. Contemporary and premium fashion and lifestyle brands are the focus of the agency, which serves the DACH region. The agency is named after Shangri-La, the utopian paradise where people live happily and in harmony with each other. “I only represent brands that are not only trend-setting, but also committed to a sustainable-ethical code of values in production and company philosophy, because that will be decisive with the consumer of the future,” Nagelschmitz explains. The collections will be shown in Düsseldorf at Galerie Achenbach Hagemeier at Kennedydamm 1, in Munich at Prisco-Haus and in Paris. Brands: 3x1, Corlin Eyewear, Jeanerica, Phanta Enterprises, Sea Me Happy, Skall Studio, Warm Me www.shangri-land.de
New arrival: iSnce 2021, denim head Scott Morrison has his label 3x1 produced exclusively from Candiani denim by the Instyle Group in Italy.
They excite many new customers: Sustainable sneakers from ACBC.
“Wildfox from Los Angeles is back,” reports Torsten Müller, who has taken over the label for Germany and Austria. «The T-shirts and sweatshirts made of soft cotton qualities are known for slogans, prints and embroideries. An awesome collection, colorful and cool.»
Also new at the agency: camouflage jeans from Italy. “These are handmade denims with intricately done labeling, often in limited editions. Simply beautiful,” Müller enthuses. Retail prices range from 199 to 299 Euros.
Luxurious in materials, understated in design and uncompromising in quality is Love Brand from London, with Caribbean roots. “Recycled fabrics are used, especially for linen shirts and swim shorts. The logo features elephants, which Love Brand supports with every piece sold. We love the project!”
Brands: ACBC, Alexander Smith x ACBC, Baldinini x ACBC, Camouflage, Love Brand, Missoni Sneaker, Moschino, Rails Men, Ron Dorff, Tatras, Wildfox www.roomninefashionagency.de
Last season’s explosive newcomer: Joshua Sanders, a collection with a smiley as a recognizable feature and fresh looks that put people in a good mood. “Semi couture also works great for us after a successful build-up,” says Florian Kuhblanck, Head of Showroom. “The collection has become more mature and has developed greatly overall.” In menswear, PT Torino has long since ceased to stand just for classic trousers, but inspires customers from Abseits to Braun in Hamburg with a total look.
“We are really looking forward to the move to our new showroom at Kaiserswerther Straße 119 in early July.”
Brands: 3rd May, Erika Cavallini, Faliero Sarti, Fissore, GMX 75, Joshua Sanders, Phisique Du Role, PT Torino, Semi Couture, Siyu www.agentur-toepfer.com
For Marc Kofler, owner of Adventure Fashion Agency GmbH, one very clear trend is on the rise: the new way of dressing that is replacing sporty looks. “Satorial and sophisticated ready-to-wear is what everyone is looking for,” he explains. In the wake of a new simplicity and a return to classic elegance, brands with a strong ready-to-wear component are getting a boost. “End consumers are looking for timeless fashion that embodies quality and craftsmanship. This trend goes hand in hand with an increased need for individuality and a move away from flashy logos,” analyzes the agency head. He says it’s more about a clean look, where less is more. “Understatement is important now,” continues Marc Kofler. To meet this market development and the needs of customers, he and his team have put more focus on brands that stage this newly discovered femininity well: Anfiny, Cruna and Untildress are the three women’s wear brands that performed extremely well last season. To round out the portfolio, Kiefermann Women joins this season. The precise workmanship of high-quality materials creates classic silhouettes yet ultra-modern looks through small details. In particular, Anfiny impresses with an extremely compact collection of pantsuits, dresses and transitional coats in a wide range of colors and through clear cuts. Cruna, as for men, focuses on extremely wellcut pants and jackets, all made in Italy, even the yarns are Italian. At Untildress the jacket is the protagonist, for both women and men the motto is “not without my blazer.” When asked what’s coming, what’s staying, what’s going, Kofler answers, “The pantsuit for women is coming, dresses are staying and sweatpants are going.”
Brands: 120% Lino, Anfiny, Cruna, DL1961 Denim, Duno, iheart, Janthee Berlin, Kashette, Kiefermann Women, odd molly, Tonno & Panna, trusted handwork, Untildress, Urbancode, Vegancode, Übernacht www.adventure-gmbh.de
High Five Brands launches with showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf and brands like Peninsula.
Henning Kaesebier, that name rings a bell for many. Starting this season, the experienced salesman, together with a partner, is running two showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf. There, a portfolio with many Italian specialists combined with trend labels will be shown. At Kurfürstenstrasse 5 in Munich and Kaiserswertherstrasse 117, High Five Brands GmbH is getting off the ground. Brands such as La Martina and Loci have already collected track records with Kaesebier and are now to be further strengthened.
Brands: 40WEFT, La Martina, La Martina Shoes, Loci, Magazzino Ricambi, Minimum, Peninsula, Sense, Stewart.
“Arrels Barcelona got off to a great start, the brand makes you want to go on vacation,” raves Niklas Rill about the swim shorts plus matching shirts, which score points with their colorful prints and quality. The T-shirts from Bowery also spread a summer mood thanks to casually washed T-shirts made in Italy, which are offered at good prices, calculated at 2.8 to 3.0. “If you don‘t buy it, it‘s your own fault,” says Niklas Rill with a wink. Otherwise, Niklas Rill focuses on his existing partners. “I have high standards for myself and want to do justice by everyone. That‘s how I understand working sustainably.” For him, this includes a lot of traveling to gather direct feedback. “It helps immensely to exchange ideas personally on site, in retail as well as in the manufactories. That way, we can continue to grow together.”
Brands: Arrels Barcelona, Bowery NYC, DU4, Seldom, The Nim Standard www.niklasrill.de
Reduced minimalism: Dušan.
After seasons of oversized silhouettes comes new tailoring - plus extroverted looks with lots of nudity. How do you classify that?
Monica Marando: For me, this shows the
usual up and down in fashion, its extremes are a reaction to the reclusiveness in the lockdown. Now young people in particular want to make a statement with sexy looks like those brought by Jacquemus, Versace and also Zara. The second big trend is an extremely reduced minimalism in classical styles, which is still represented by Jil Sander and today also The Row and Dušan. The third trend opens a new chapter, with sporty looks with a touch of elegance, which I am particularly excited about. For example, a sequined dress by Plan C with a knit waistband or sequined bermudas with an oversized sweater. Casual looks that you can also wear to the office today.
What is the biggest transformation in womenswear for you?
That there is not one prevailing trend. Everyone wears what they like. In diversity and freedom lies the greatest evolution. Brands: Aliita, Dušan, Koio, Les Ottomans, Péro, Plan C @Monicamarando_mmb
The Qool Agency
Strong partner, sophisticated product: The Nim.
“We want to create a brand orchestra and The Qool is the stage for that,” say Boris Mirkovic and Nikita Kvitkin, who have relaunched a Düsseldorf-based menswear store plus sales agency. “We focus on distinctive collections whose aesthetics flow organically into each other.” They’re launching with Mercer Amsterdam, rugs by Okej Studio and beauty by Daluma, among others. Also in the mix: Their own label, Lola. www.theqool.de
Framestitched cult loafers: Duke & Dexter.
“We’re on the road a lot,” Michael Brockmann tells us. “It’s good to go out to customers, talk to each other and hear what they need for their assortments.” For this close interaction, Michael Brockmann and Malte Kötteritz’s agency continues to focus on three collections. “Robert Friedman offers a wide range, with a linen package and blouses in a knit or crochet look. Colorful embroidered dresses and blouses are particularly beautiful.” Myths impresses with print pants for women as well as technical qualities for men. And Circolo 1901’s forte continues to be jersey, for casual looks that work for leisure as well as on the job.
Brands: Circolo 1901, Myths, Robert Friedman www.heritage-showroom.de
The Berlin agency has taken over distribution in the DACH region for the Spanish brand Scalpers. “The total look concept, with the columns men, women, kids and footwear, each of which also functions independently, allows us to go beyond classic wholesale and offers strong opportunities for pop-ups, corners and shop-in-shop concepts,” explains commercial director Torsten Lange. The advantages: one million items in stock, a JOOR connection, B2B customer access, an extensive NOS range in all categories and good value for money: T-shirts from 34.90, polos from 59.90, shirts from 79.90, knitwear from 89.90 and jackets from 179.90 Euros, all with a 2.7 calculation. The Spaniards have also signed a two-year contract with Bayer 04 Leverkusen as their official Fashion Partner.
Brands: Casall, Costume National, DRM, Hoff, Holzheimer, Mallet, Run Of, Scalpers, United Nude
www.deluxe-distribution.de
New on board at Stefan Wittmann are shirts by Q1. “A great manufactory product,” says Stefan Wittmann. “The style is casual and at the same time makes the know-how of the shirt specialist, which has been built up for years, noticeable.” Also new to the agency is denim from Five Fellas, for men and women. “I’m excited that the label is both authentic and sustainable; you can see that passion goes into the products,” says Wittmann. “In addition, Five Fellas convinces with a reliable NOS program and a cost estimate of 3.0.” Another plus: The jeans are available in three lengths.
Brands: Annica Vallin, Collezione N_01, Crime London, Daniele Fiesoli, Five Fellas, La Fée Maraboutée, Les Deux, Litchi, Michael Kors, Q1 www.agentur-wittmann.de
Since summer 2023, Tina Windscheid and her agency have been presenting their brands in the Schärer Areal in Erlenbach: Antonelli Firenze, 19 Andrea 47, Bruno Manetti, Hanasan, Lu Li Lina and Orciani. New is Kamu – an up-and-coming Korean label led by designer Younghwa Kim. With both women’s passion for craftsmanship, exciting things can be expected.
Tina Windscheid and Younghwa Kim share a passion: High-quality fashion!
Patrizia Pepe is the promient new arrival. “For me, this is one of the most beautiful women’s collections and fits great into our portfolio,” Michael Schulz is pleased to say. Also new is Luisa Spagnoli. “The brand comes from retail and appeals to women who are looking for style and quality instead of short-lived trends.” Day Birger et Mikkelsen covers the premium entry-level price range. “We try a lot to get the best for our customers,” Schulz says. “For Germany, we have now newly acquired Current Elliott and for distribution, we are cooperating with Select Studio. I’m excited about the casual coolness, which is a great way to round out a ready-to-wear assortment.” The Munich showroom is doubling in size, and another has opened in Sindelfingen. Brands: Alessia Santi, Alysi, Attic & Barn, Beatrice.b, Borbonese, Borsalino, Caractere, Current Elliott, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Elisabetta Franchi, Liviana Conti, Luisa Spagnoli, Maliparmi, Momoni, Oofwear, Parosh, Patrizia Pepe, Pinko, Rinascimento, Twinset www.acomode.de
The new partner of René and Daniela Michaelis’ agency is the brand Oakwood from Paris. “Oakwood has substance and, in addition to their core product leather, has built up a convincing complete look,” says René Michaelis. College jackets are a strong theme. Absolut Cashmere remains the leader for one hundred percent cashmere in the premium starting price range. A focus lies on retail prices for twelve gage between 199 and 249 Euros. In addition to knitwear in 40 colors, there are matching T-shirts in various qualities such as cotton lycra. Yippie Hippie complements summer styles with cardigans and overshirts and is thus further on its way to becoming an all-season product. “Goldgarn continues to expand its premium denims. The brand’s great expertise is super soft washes, which are constantly being improved.”
Brands: Absolute Cashmere, Genesis, Goldgarn, Goldgarn Liebesglück, Leomax Cashmere, Oakwood, Shade, Yippie Hippie www.michaelis-fashion-agency.com
Fashion attitude: Elisabetta Franchi. On the rise: Beatrice.b.
Elvis, how was last season?
Elvis Giglione, Managing Director Elvis Fashion Agency: In the beginning, we had small difficulties with some of the Italian suppliers when it came to shipping, but we were able to resolve them very quickly through good communication. In the end, we had great results in terms of sales. Niche labels are very well received by the market and demand continues to grow.
What’s
Roberto Ricetti, a shirt professional that also produces high quality underwear, pajamas and bathrobes. Handmade pieces in the finest Italian fabrics, elegant and refined down to the smallest detail. Thus, our agency covers all the needs of a man, from morning to night.
Brands: Bagutta, Brooksfield, Capobianco, Cruna, Fioroni Cashmere, Hiso, Manto, Roberto Ricetti, RR’s, The Gigi, Tombolini. elvisfashion.com
“You have to stay flexible these days,” says Dominik Meuer of die Hinterhofagentur. Every day offers new challenges that need to be solved. On the one hand, he and his team rely on an intense exchange with existing customers and suppliers in order to be able to offer the right mix of products for the order season; on the other hand, new collections are examined in order to establish new business relationships. One example is the Italian label Jerry Key, which is represented on the German market for the first time. The brand has been producing menswear for well-known manufacturers such as Boglioli, Pal Zileri and Caruso for many years. There will also be new labels in the women’s segment. “We are looking forward to the order round and are sure to be able to again offer exciting themes.”
Brands: Atelier Alpiniste, Bob, Borélio, Des Petits Hauts, FourTen, Hartford, Jerry Key, Koike, Original Vintage Style, Portofiori, Prime Shoes, RRD, Sophie, The Jack & Jackie, The Jacksons, Waxed, Wool & Co. www.diehinterhofagentur.de
An extremely well-connected fashion agency with two experienced protagonists. Isabella and Gerhard Knaus are pleased about two prominent new additions: premium brands Current Elliott and Kiefermann Damen round out the portfolio of finely tuned women’s labels with excellent performance and a distinguished community. In men’s labels, Gerhard Knaus talks about the steady success of Kiefermann, as well as the great potential of G-Lab, Distretto12 and Trusted Handwork.
Brands: Arma, Bella Dahl, Current Elliott, Distretto12, G-Lab, Grace, Iheart, J Rick, Juvia, Kiefermann, Love Joy Victory, No 1 Como, Trusted Handwork www.knausoderknaus.at
Marion Hoferer has not been influenced by price hikes: Some brands like Soldout, Dolores or Pride to Be were able to maintain their prices last season. From this season onwards, Soldout and the new blouse brand Quite Luxury even offer a calculation with 3.0 throughout. Intended as an assortment, these brands are flanked by many specialists. Whether Nine to 9, Lapis, Seven Gauge, Douie, or Silk95, new discoveries are waiting in the showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich to round off individual assortments. “Our collections fit just as well in a department store as in a small independent boutique,” Timothy Hoferer is convinced. “The greatest joy this season for me is the return of La Milanesa –the trendy bag from Milan is back in our hands,” says Marion Hoferer. Heartfelt projects like a crochet bag with a social conscience are the cherries on the cake. “Most of all, we like collections where a specific material or aspect is simply outstanding. For me, everything always starts with the fabric,”
says the agency owner. This is just as true for sustainable newcomer Goodmatch from Italy as it is for Dutch brand TRVL Dress or Quite Luxury, a blouse label with a focus on Raso stretch fabrics. The agency is launching this season with an expanded team of now six people in total. “We sell at the normal pace, but with many brands we already deliver at a date that is pre for other brands,” Marion Hoferer is pleased to say. “Our brands manage to implement trends simulatenously in an edgy as well as a commercial manner, that’s the common denominator of our offer. A lot of modernity, but also the certainty that the products will prove themselves in sales,” concludes Timothy Hoferer. “This also applies to our newcomer JNBY. Known for its winter oversize down jackets, we can reveal that this label is also exciting in summer with extravagant looks in dresses, blouses and pants.
Brands: Dolores, Douie, Floer, Goodmatch, JNBY, La Milanesa, Lapis, Lost in Me, Nine to 9, Pride to Be, Seven Gauge, Silk95, Stylism, TRVL Dress, Quite Luxury www.modeist.com
Quite Luxury, the new blouse brand at Modeist, focuses on a quality that many in the market are looking for.
Gaby, how was the last season?
It’s a statement: for the new season, the Düsseldorf agency of Mark Etzold and Hannah Böhringer is expanding to 300 square meters. Enough space to newly incorporate the SoSue collection by Sue Giers and Vanessa Gieser. “I like the chic, timeless total look and the top price-performance ratio,” says Mark Etzold. “In general, we can work very well with small, owner-managed labels, because the dialogue and close exchange leads to mutual success. We are looking forward to the cooperation.” In addition to the well-known Antonia blouse, SoSue offers modern classics that can be combined with different looks. “SoSue is for women who know what their life is about. With their various onesize models, they make many women happy.”
Brands: Dawid Tomaszewski, Lu Li Lina, Mouleta, Samantha Sung, SoSue, White T www.mne-fashion.de
“Sunspel was an eternal dream,” confesses managing director Florian Ranft. The brand is known for its T-shirts and sweats and still produces its knitwear in Scotland. “There is a warehouse in Holland, the people are all pleasant, great customer service,” the agency manager is enthusiastic. The second new arrival is the Italian sneaker Flower Mountain with a Japanese-inspired soul, an insider shoe with potential, most recently with a collab with Universal Works. Number three is called Icon Denim, hot among celebrities like Hailey Bieber or Emily Ratajkowsky. Prices from 149 to 189 Euros and a core price range for women at 169 Euros make impulse buying easy.
Brands: 7 for all Mankind, AG, Aniven, Aspesi, Baracuta, Barena Men, Blauer USA, C.T. Plage, Denham, Deus Ex Machina, Diadora, Dickies, Filson, Flower Mountain, Halfboy, In This Shirt, Icon Denim, K-Way, Le Bonnet, Otto d’Ame, Plumes, Purple Brand, Save the Duck, Sunspel, Universal Works, Varsity, White Sand www.kometundhelden.de
Gaby Ventrella, owner at Ventrella GmbH: Excellent, we topped pre-Corona sales. Of course, some collections gained, some lost, but overall the signs are positive. Highlights that have done very well are the Tagliatore collections, the Nine in the Morning pants, the Nove lambskin models and of course the Avant Toi knitwear. Bazar Deluxe has also been able to exceed its sales.
Your outlook for the season?
We are optimistic and expect a positive response. We are especially looking forward to our blouses and dresses, which will play an important role in the summer. Caliban Donna and Le Sarte Pettegole have very sophisticated collections with unique designs that everyone can look forward to.
Brands: 813, Anitroc, Avant Toi, Al ain, Bazar Deluxe, Caliban, Ennequadro, Inoa, Le Sarte Pettegole, MPD Box, NDV Project, Nove, Nine in the Morning, Pao, Tagliatore, Tintoria Mattei
www.agentur-ventrella.de
“Pitti Uomo is the real kick-off for us,” says Matthias Schwarte of the eponymous agency. Even though this year in particular, a large number of clients have already been to the showrooms for the pre-dates, “I’m happy that we can show a lot of evolution in the collections - no matter if it’s Daniele Fiesoli with his really noteworthy women’s collection or Parajumpers with a steady development.”
www.agentur-schwarte.de
Great fun with colors: The collection by Oilily.
Four real showrooms, the owner couple non-stop on the road, every visit is worthwhile because there is always something new: Damir Prins-Juric and Henk Prins are on fire for retailers who, just like themselves, put personal engagement first. “We can’t dictate anything to our customers, we can only whet their appetites,” says Damir Prins-Juric. New additions include Camicetta Snob, Crush Cashmere, Imprevu, MDK, I love my Pants’ new line I love my dress and a few cuties more. Super additions to favorite brands like Devotion Twins, Penn & Ink, Amaranto or Oilily.
Brands: 1-one, Ana Alcazar, Bobi Los Angeles, Camicetta Snob, Crush Cashmere, Cute Stuff, Devotion Twins, Floor, Herzensangelegenheiten, I love my Pants, Imprevu, Ivko, Johnny Was, Justmine, Les Tricots d’O, Love Joy Victory, MDK, Newtone, Nimo, Oilily, Outryght, Penn & Ink, Sincere, Smashed Lemon www.prins-juric.com
New at the agency of Christian Teufl: Karl Lagerfeld jeans, for men and women. “We expect a lot from it, the total look is young, cool and convinces with buying prices from 129 to 169 Euros for jeans, with a mark-up of 2.7,” says Teufl, who took over the collection for Germany and Austria. Also new to the portfolio is Orciani. “The bags are extremely high-quality work, you notice the attention to detail of the leather manufactory. Their retail prices starting at 350 Euros are great as well.” The third newcomer is ViaMailBag, for example with straw bags in the Ibiza style. “The bags create a good mood - an important signal in the market especially.”
Attention to detail: The bags by Orciani.
CCT Group Salzburg: 0039Italy, Baldessarini, Canadian, Capranea, French Connection, FTC, Karl Lagerfeld, Karl Lagerfeld Jeans, Mou, North Sails, Orciani, Peuterey, Shoebiz Copenhagen, Twin Set Milano, Van Laack, ViaMailBag, Wolford
CCT Group Düsseldorf: Karl Lagerfeld Accessories & Bags, Karl Lagerfeld Womenswear, Karl Lagerfeld Beach & Underwear
Men & Women, Karl Lagerfeld Jeans Men & Women, Kurt Geiger, Orciani, ViaMailbag www.teufl.cc
Boom! Essentiel Antwerp, Paul & Shark, Stand Studio and Daily Blue - Select Studio enters the season with prominent new additions. “Each brand is a big task that I’m really looking forward to,” says agency owner Bernard Waage. Paul & Shark is to be gently repositioned. What excites him here is the openness to new things. Essentiel Antwerp is a dream brand in the affordable luxury sector, Stand Studio has been observed for a long time, and Daily Blue is the very first brand founded by the godfather of denim Adriano Goldschmied. This solidifies Select Studio’s reputation as a home for contemporary brands. “With our brands, you can do assortments that bring excitement and commerciality to an aesthetic denominator,” Waage is convinced.
Brands: Birgitte Herskind, By Marlene Birger, Daily Blue by Adriano Goldschmied, Dante 6, Envii, Essentiel Antwerp, Gestuz, Gianni Chiarini, Humanoid, Manuel Ritz, Montecore, Munthe, Norse Projects, Oscar Jacobsen, Paul & Shark, Sand Copenhagen, Stand Studio, Stine Goya, Studio AR by Arma, Talking Walls, Toral
What is recycled nylon or polyester great for? For jackets, exactly, but also for swimwear. That’s what Save the Duck will be kicking off with in spring 2024. The first collection includes colorful plains and prints, and the model range is deliberately simple: Swimsuits and bikinis with three different tops and two briefs. www.savetheduck.it
Save the Duck (won’t) go belly-up with this: From spring 2024, there will be a beachwear collection for women.
Botto Giuseppe, pioneer in sustainability and highest quality wool, has two new partner farms in Uruguay. One is called Py-Aguauzu’ in Paysandù and is run by the Fraschini family. With 2,900 hectares of land and 3,200 sheep, this farm produces top-quality wool. The second is La Cuchilla in Tacuarembó and belongs to the Juan Martin Monteverde family. On 3,680 hectares of land and with 6,000 sheep, this farm also focuses on quality and environmental protection. The farm is climate neutral according to ISO 14064. The wool from both farms is RWS and land-to-market certified and stands for regenerative agriculture.
The Italian cashmere label is known for collections that have always had a close connection to the art world and stylistic innovation. Through the end of July, Avant Toi is partnering with the Mudec Design Museum in Milan to showcase its work in the exhibition “Rainbow. Colors and wonders between myths, arts and science.” The creative spirit of Mirko Ghignone, Creative Director and co-founder of Avant Toi, draws from art, uniqueness is the goal. Through careful material processing, treatments and color design, ordinary clothing becomes a piece of art. This peculiarity gives the company its exclusive position in the spectrum of Made in Italy. The brand’s collaboration with the museum also consists of workshops and live performances by Mirko Ghignone. This path breaks with traditional definitions of fashion and develops its own language that skillfully mixes art, innovation and new forms of expression. “For us, art and design have always been the premise of our collections. Avant Toi was born exactly like this (almost) 30 years ago, when my uncle Mirko hand-painted the finest cashmere pieces for the first time. For us, this fusion is nothing new and is our DNA. We are happy to take these techniques and our mission out there and involve end consumers as well as art lovers,” said Giulia Marini, Head of Marketing and daughter of Fiorella Ghignone, CEO of Liapull, Avant Toi’s parent company. In this context, Avant Toi also presented its latest Home Collection - thus closing the circle of fashion, design and art. avant-toi.it
DIRECTOR INTERNATIONAL SALES
Dieselstraße 9 | 92237 Sulzbach-Rosenberg
Michael Betz: m.betz@hiltl.de
https://lookbook.hiltl.de/en
Gennaro, you have moved. Tell us more!
Gennaro Dargenio, CEO Circolo 1901: I’ve always been in love with the building: a 1970s furniture factory in Barletta’s industrial area. It covers 3,500 square meters, divided into two blocks: a main building with three floors and a concrete cube. This Cubo is where we express our creativity: collection design, shoots, presentations, etc. The large part houses offices, storage and a top-floor showroom with a terrace for events.
Who did you entrust with the remodeling?
The architectural studio q-bic from Florence. I’m a fan of their work, exactly my taste. It was important to me that they focus on details, as I always do with my collections, and that value is given and underlined to the environments and history of the building - Luca and Marco managed this perfectly.
What’s your highlight?
The view of the sea. From the terrace you can even see the Gargano.
On July 17 for Munich Fabric Start, DMI Fashion Day will take place live in Munich, with trend talks, Q&As and networking. “The content is about the longing for new beginnings, which Ludovic de Saint Sernin expresses at Ann Demeulemeester,” says managing director Carl Tillessen. “He literally starts with Adam and Eve, before the expulsion from paradise. JW Anderson also sends his models down the runway virtually dressed only in a fig leaf. He thus creates a tabula rasa on which fashion can reinvent itself once again. Because in fashion, as with its customers, everything is really up for discussion at the moment.” www.deutschesmodeinstitut.de
New to the Swiss label is a high-grade Pima Jersey Garment Dyed quality, for polos and shirts in eight colors. “In addition, I rely heavily on cotton/lyocell and cotton/modal blends, for outstanding material properties,” says Patrick Röllin, who also uses leftover fabrics from designer collections for linen shirts and shirts for a small sustainable program. Another highlight for the new season are hybrids of knitwear and jersey. www.3rdmay.com
Fynch Hatton has been selling its own products in Austria since this year.
As you enter the new showroom at Gusswerk in Salzburg, the positive energy is palpable. Self-distributing since April 1, Fynch Hatton Group manager Ralf Hoogenhuizen and POS manager Austria Sylvia Enzminger are building on the success of Agentur Kucharz. CEO Mathias Eckert has set the goal for the casual lifestyle brand in Austria: Continuity in the upper-casual segment. With the umbrella thorn as its trademark, Fynch Hatton was founded in 1998 as a knitwear brand for men. For the past five seasons it has also been offering women‘s wear. Today positioned as a comprehensive lifestyle brand, Fynch Hatton completes its offering with living. www.fynch-hatton.com
A casual signature and products full of passion: you can tell that the founders of Butcher of Blue have gained experience at G-Star, Denham and Patagonia, among others. “Butcher of Blue deliberately doesn’t chase trends but focuses on casual basics for customers who appreciate quality and creativity,” says Patric Maly, who has taken over sales with his agency 4PM Agency. “Innovative qualities that feel great are used, such as organic cotton, linen, Tencel and hemp - for example for denim, knits and shirts.” To be ordered at Fashn Rooms in Düsseldorf and from July 30 to August 14 at Goldbergstudios in Munich. www.butcherofblue.com
Re-commerce is booming: Is Newish by Jan ‘n June an attempt to take advantage of this sales opportunity, or does your own re-commerce platform cater to an image?
Juliana Holtzheimer, founder of Jan ‘n June: We founded Jan ‘n June as a sustainable brand and are constantly exploring options for improving our strategy at various levels. This starts with fair trade coffee and extends to new material developments or optimizations and our re-commerce platform Newish. Our goal is to fix the fast fashion industry. That’s why the answer is intrinsic motivation. Sales opportunities and image reasons are secondary.
How did you prepare the platform?
We started thinking about re-commerce a few years ago, focusing more on offline concepts. As a young brand, online secondhand didn’t seem realistic from a cost and capacity perspective. The decision was quickly made when we found a handling partner.
Heatable zones in jackets or vests that can be activated with the touch of a button, via app or Apple Watch, and set to an exact desired temperature? This has long become a reality: AlphaTauri and Deutsche Telekom received the German Innovation Award 2023 for the heatable Smart Fashion Series 2.0, an award presented once a year by the German Design Council to cross-industry products, technologies and services with special added value. The Heatable Capsule Collection 2.0 can retain and store heat. Special areas for this are located in the two front pockets and on the right and left sides of the back. Power is supplied by means of a power bank, which is connected and stowed in a separate back pocket.
“The award is significant proof for us that we are on the right track and encourages us to continue working collectively on innovative technologies with the goal of creating novel added value for the wearer,” said a delighted Ahmet Mercan, CEO AlphaTauri about the German Innovation Award. Currently, the HCC 2.0 consists of a unisex commuter jacket, a bomber jacket, vests and a trench coat for men and women. The next update is already being planned: the launch of the HCC 3.0 will take place in the fall. “With the Heatable Capsule Collection 3.0, we are focusing on the continuous development of our technology. The collection’s improved app and enhanced features allow it to be even more responsive to wearers’ individual needs. Our collaboration with AlphaTauri shows that fashion and technology can harmonize perfectly,” explains Antje Hundhausen, Vice President Brand Experience Telekom. alphatauri.com
Claudio, what does the new season bring?
Claudio Parolini, founder The Nim Standard: Our highlights include amazingly washed non-denims in color, in summery linen-cotton blends. Denim remains the heart of the collection, of course; we’re playing the theme even more broadly in both the men’s and women’s collections to give retailers even more options. Wider-cut styles are also going down well with the ladies. The Straight, which translates the 1990s vibe into the present day, has been particularly successful.
Denim that feels good when worn like a long-lasting favorite is the one secret to success. What else?
I like to talk to retailers in person, which is why I travel a lot. Many are super happy with the sales, which is also because we are constantly developing the collection according to their feedback. At the same time, we manage to keep our premium entry-level retail prices between 179 and 229 Euros. That’s another thing that retailers love about us!
www.thenimstandard.com
Stetson Europe has opened its first dedicated store in the UK in the heart of London, at Covent Garden. From authentic Western hats to timeless classics and streetwear styles, a wide selection of signature headwear is on show. “The opening of our flagship store in Seven Dials is a significant milestone and will help us continue to grow this strategically important market,” said Sebastian Boekholt, Managing Director FWS/ Stetson Europe. The store is also home to a showroom for wholesale customers. Photo: Tom Cubis www.stetson-europe.com
Spanish lifestyle brand Ecoalf introduces a new sports collection aimed at active people with a sustainable lifestyle. Following a compact yoga and Pilates line and a small running capsule, the sports segment is now being significantly expanded to include cycling and surfing. Thus, in collaboration with Deeply Europe and big-wave surfer Natxo González, wetsuits based on plant-based natural rubber have been created that require no compromises in terms of freedom of movement, drying properties, comfort and environmental impact. The line also includes boardshorts, rash guards and swimwear. In addition to good fits, elasticity, breathability and timeless design, the focus is primarily on a long durability of the pieces. As always, Ecoalf aims to save as many natural resources as possible, using as much recycled fibers from textile waste or old fishing nets as possible. In addition, Ecoalf has massively limited the use of harmful substances in the manufacturing process since 2017 and will completely eliminate the use of chemicals such as PFAS or PFOAS by 2025. To counteract the release of microplastics in the Ecoalf Sports Collection due to the detachment of microfibers during washing, reinforced and resistant continuous filaments are processed. In addition, the environmental impact of manufacturing has been reduced to the point of saving over 232 million liters of water, 26 percent less than the market average, and 35 tons of CO2 emissions compared to conventional sportswear, 34 percent less than the market average. For its environmental and social standards, last year Ecoalf was recognized as a member by the B Corp Foundation with the “Best for the World” award in the environmental category. www.ecoalf.com
What insights did the double event Fashn Rooms and Neonyt bring?
Ulrike Kähler, Managing Director Igedo Exhibitions: We have shown what we can do. Interest is growing, also from abroad. I am very active for both events and travel a lot in Belgium and Holland. We are also happy about exhibitors who come back and those who affirm us as loyal attendants. We are experiencing new encouragement from agencies, which makes me particularly happy!
Our Showroom Concept will take place from July 21 to 24 and can be extended if necessary. Because we offer a good course here, there are showrooms presenting both in the city and in the Böhler area.
What else speaks in favor of visiting you?
There are no excuses: the visit is worthwhile in any case. In addition to the fashion, the great gastronomy, our outdoor area with cocktails and also our shuttle to the showrooms are very attractive.
www.igedo.com
Fashn Rooms: July 22 to 24, 2023
Neonyt: July 22 to 24, 2023
Showroom Concept: July 21 to 24, 2023
“Ibiza vibes characterize the summer styles of CG-Club of Gents,” Ralf Klute tells us. “Wide-cut pants and jackets, as well as T-shirts in super-light sweater looks interpret the suit look in a play between color and non-color.”
Colors like turquoise, sage, ochre or yellow in summery fabrics, wildly combined into prints. Several collection themes celebrate summer in a fashionable way, especially the NextGen Project: fully recycled and GOTS certified. To the suit, the brand gives freshness with the combination of double-breasted jacket with shorts or suit trousers combined with jacket. www.cg.fashion
Innovation
for 180 years: Lodenfrey Menswear. In the know: Leonhard von Pfister.
Lodenfrey Menswear is a brand between tradition and modernity - a challenge?
Leonhard von Pfister, Managing Director Lodenfrey Menswear: We are lucky for our brand to practically be born with innovative power in its DNA, and at the same time be able to fall back on the tried and tested. For 180 years, we have lived consistency and longevity through the highest standards in materials and workmanship as well as timeless elegance in design. Your recipe for success?
Munich is considered the northernmost city of Italy. We combine an Italian understanding of style with German product design. The production of our designs in mostly own factories in Europe is continuously improved. The factories are our backbone. They and all their employees are at the heart of everything we do. The highlights of summer 2024?
The collection presents classic shapes in elegant natural materials as well as sporty business jackets in technical qualities with an excellent fit.
The label Goldgarn Denim from Mannheim is characterized by a steady upward trend. The company has long since left the status of a start-up; today, Goldgarn Denim is characterized by sustainable structures. With the continuous expansion of the distribution network also comes a naturally greater variance in the collection. Wide legs, palazzo, white denim and almost as important, cargos and non-denims underline this in the women’s collection. For men, you can look forward to baggy, balloon and tapered fit, white denim from white to cream and non-denims from classic chinos to casual pleated pants. goldgarndenim.com
Ever more complete: Goldgarn Denim.
Female designers, producers, and doers - the female brand from Mannheim is presenting itself with a clear profile after its relaunch. A collection that focuses on key pieces that belong in every wardrobe and are timelessly good - pants, blouses or trench coats, always with a focus on good cuts. These pieces are complemented with trendy items such as bomber jackets, cargo pants or skirts and dresses made of vegan leather. At the launch, the Mannheimer Frauenhaus e.V. [Mannheim non-profit women’s shelter] was supported with donations of clothes and goods, and in the future they want to continue to support this local charity.
www.liebesglück.shop
Otto D’Ame
Niccolò, Otto D’Ame is performing excellently, tell us more!
Niccolò Frosini, CEO Otto D’Ame: Yes, indeed. We grew by 23 percent in 2023, to a turnover of 28 million Euros – both nationally and internationally. That makes us proud and satisfied.
Are there any news for summer 2024?
There is a very nice innovation: we will present our first accessories series. A very ambitious project, for which we have brought bag expert Walter Sago on board. Around 40 pieces, made of high-quality materials, with reduced silhouettes. We work exclusively with leather from Santa Croce and 90 percent of the fabrics are from Italy. We remain true to the motto made in Italy, also for the bags.
What will the prime costs for the accessories be? We want to serve a medium price segment, the models are between 200 and 250 Euros at cost, with specials that will be a little more elaborate in design and made of even more noble materials, which will then cost around 500 Euros.
What do you expect for 2023?
With this brand extension, I expect to close 2023 with a growth of 15 percent, i.e. to break the 30 million mark. We want to work on our shop-in-shop strategy with some strong partners and also further develop the franchising idea. In Italy, we are opening the next monobrand store in Rome, which we are very excited about.
What do you see as the basis for your success?
The product is extremely up-to-date and the price range is attractive. 54 of our employees are women.
I think that the female touch, the women leadership by Silvia in all areas has led to this success. In the last few months, we’ve hired ten more women - that can only be a good thing! (laughs)
Inspiration Argentina: For Michi Klemera, his South Tyrolean homeland is both inspiration and springboard.
Luis TrenkerMichi, Luis Trenker opened in Rottach-Egern, then it’s Peschiera del Garda’s turn, in July Berchtesgaden, a steady upward course?
Michi Klemera, Founder and Managing Director Luis Trenker: “We were able to close our fiscal year with a plus of 35 percent, that’s 50 percent more than 2019, so before the pandemic. The market is extremely dynamic at the moment, old recipes often no longer work. Everything has to mesh: online, where we have invested a lot, our own stores, the multi-brand retailers, because they give the brand a completely different quality. After 45 years in this industry, my heart still beats for traditional sales and partnerships with retailers, and I’m delighted with every single person we inspire anew.
Are there also opportunities in this time?
Of course there are! We can see from our online store where we have a large following, and only if that is a white spot on our map do we decide to become active there ourselves.
Do these places have to have tourism?
We are good wherever a person or a store manages to create a holiday-like atmosphere and awaken all the good associations for which modern South Tyrol stands. So it doesn’t have to be a tourist mecca; you can also travel in your head. It is rather about hospitality. If you are received like a friend, you can get involved in all facets of Luis Trenker - and will discover that Luis Trenker is really fashion.
Where do you notice this most clearly in the collection?
In our very reduced, sartorial made-in-Italy line, suits or stand-up collar jackets in the world’s best jersey from an Italian manufacturer that was just bought by Loro Piana.
Are you trying to fill vacated niches with these?
Yes and no. We have always been known to go our way. I can only be original, even if this path is rockier and being mainstream would be easier - but that’s just not me. Nevertheless: we have been out of the pigeonhole, in which many still assume us to be in, for quite some time now. It also fits that our Luis always keeps travelling further: For the spring/summer collection, the inspiration is Argentina.
Surprises with good looks even in summer: JNBY, new at Modeist.
JNBY
We know the problem: what does a brand known for fashionable oversized down jackets do in the summer? Really good fashion! At least in the case of JNBY. Extravagant looks with jackets, trenches, but also blouses, pants and dresses, a real total look. As of now, it complements the portfolio of Modeist agency in Germany and Austria. Ordering starts on July 3, and the collection can be seen in the showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf. And the name says it all: Just Naturally Be Yourself. www. jnby-shop.com, www.modeist.com
SALT
Salzburg
SALT, the business and order platform in Salzburg’s Gusswerk, is entering its fourth season. Founder Hubert Stolzlechner focuses on continuous development. His medium-term goal is to integrate as many showrooms as possible at the location in order to offer visitors a diverse mix of collections and brands that not only go beyond the unchanged important core of traditional dress and Alpine lifestyle, but also provide an exciting platform for those from other, related industries in terms of content. “Food, crafts, accessories, there are many things that offer exciting opportunities for retailers of the future to expand their assortment intelligently and successfully. This can be experienced at SALT,” Stolzlechner summarizes the plan with which he wants to realize healthy growth within a clearly defined ambition in close partnership with Gusswerk.
SALT Order Days Salzburg, Gusswerk
SALT 01: July 18 and 19, 2023
SALT 02: August 25 to 27, 2023 @saltsalzburg
Drykorn returned to Pitti Uomo in June. “By returning to Florence, we are underlining our international ambitions for the coming years,” says Sebastian Ross, Head of Sales International. “We use this platform as a touchpoint. The early date always makes for a good atmosphere with important discussions.” Drykorn’s ambition of international expansion is equally underpinned by its presence in a gallery in the Marais district during Paris Menswear Fashion Week to hold appointments with international retailers and representatives. www.drykorn.com
The French capital is known for revolution. That’s exactly what’s happening this summer at the world’s largest fabric and ingredients fair. To keep up with the changes in the textile industry, no stone will be left unturned at Première Vision, which will take place in Paris from July 4 to 6 and herald the fall/winter 2024/25 season. But above all, the aspects of environmental and social standards will be focused on even more consistently than before. To this end, the trade fair management has brought on board renowned expertise from GOTS, Bluesign, Leather Working Group, Iso 14001, Ecolabel, Global Recycled Standard, Oeko-Tex Standard 100, European Flax or FSC, among others. “With this initiative, we will support our exhibitors and visitors in meeting both the legal requirements and
the ever-increasing consumer awareness in the future,” explains General Manager Gilles Lasbordes. “And because we are convinced that sustainability must be at the heart of all future fashion collections, the theme will no longer be limited to a specific forum in July, but will take center stage in all the new inspiration spaces at Première Vision.” By means of an eco-responsible labeling system, which will be launched in July and is based on a voluntary pictogram display concept with five criteria, visitors will be able to recognize exhibitors participating in the “A better way” program. This is all about greater transparency in the supply chain. Social initiatives, impact on production sites, traceability as well as manufacturing processes, product composition, shelf life and recyclability are all included in the experts’ assessment.
www.premierevision.com
The most important style of the collection is the bomber jacket, which comes along for the summer of 2024 with fashionable innovation and in refreshing colors. The functional outerwear is now complemented by figure-hugging blazers and indoor jackets, casual and elegant in its look, cozy in materials. The clean, matte surfaces of active outdoorwear contrast with shiny bomber jackets and the fine ready-to-wear materials for blazers. Overall, the details show a new sophistication, with prints, embroidery, special trims and buttons. The theme of sustainability is paid tribute to with durable and timeless styles in high-quality workmanship, preferring recycled and natural fibers. The color palette exudes optimism and lightness. Warm earth and natural tones are accented with pastels and vibrant pinks, blues, yellows and greens, signaling a positive new direction.
www.iq.studio
This season, the trouser brand Dolores manages an even greater balancing act. From casual to elegant, from feminine to relaxed. Whether solid color or print, a small stretch content makes the pants especially comfortable. In the cuts, the big focus is on a flattering silhouette, whether figure-hugging or really wide. The UK prices are on average between 169 and 199 euros, the brand always creates the first delivery date early in the season to ensure a long regular sale time. dolores-fashion.de
2024 #empoweryourself
DÜSSELDORFER FASHION DAYS
19. – 26.7.2023
Termine und Showrooms:
IF A PAIR OF TROUSERS NOT ONLY EXPRESSES YOUR CHARACTER, BUT STRENGTHENS IT – THEN YOU‘RE WEARING
Genderless pants from XS to XL, very pointed and fashionably positioned - that‘s what Rossi stands for.
You have quickly become successful and visible - congratulations!
Tobias Schellenberger, Managing Director Rossi: You design scenarios from worst to best case and we even exceeded the best case, so that some styles in the spring/summer season 2023 were sold out. Since we manufacture in Europe, we were able to replenish production at short notice, so our structures are an advantage.
Keyword structures: How important was the addition “by Raffaello Rossi“?
The fact that we are a start-up within a healthy family business that has been on the market for 25 years was a door opener. Nevertheless, we are removing the addition, because Rossi has learned to stand on its own two feet.
Has the whole company benefitted from the project?
The fact that we started Rossi not from the product but from the brand turned our traditional logic on its head, which was inspiring. Because we do sales, marketing and PR in-house, we can utilize the lessons learned.
Alessandro, how did your Voxi Group brands perform last season?
Alessandro Hong, Voxi Group: We are very pleased with the results of Distretto12 and Anfiny. Distretto12 has confirmed itself as a reference brand for men and has conquered more markets thanks to its strong identity and special style. With Anfiny you can almost speak of an explosion - a great first season in the DACH region. That’s why we are now focusing even more on this card and have also planned growth for spring/summer. How will you continue writing the Anfiny story?
It remains a reduced capsule with stylish transitional coats and very beautiful dresses. Everything in pastel shades and feminine cuts.
Are there any innovations for the DACH region?
We are putting Distretto12 on a new footing in Germany with a finely graduated distribution. At Anfiny, we can still increase the number of customers without compromising exclusivity. We want to work even more closely with our key customers.
Doing things differently: Premium and Seek are taking the stage with a dense program at the old location. The new format The Ground, in collaboration with Platte Berlin, aims to bring brands and fashion professionals into dialogue with Gen Z. Under the motto “Platte raves The Ground”, a community lounge will take place. For this purpose, the Station Berlin grounds will be occupied for two days by selected (fashion) brands, various networking opportunities and an extensive schedule. Denim is the focus of Studio MM04’s 202030 pop-up program on sustainability transformation, which not only looks at scaling sustainable denim, but also at the added value that the fashion industry can derive from this development. Other program speakers include Yoonaverse, Showz, Ebay, Simone Hartmann and Cloudy Zakrocki on topics such as digital technology, diversity, circular fashion, modern leadership and culture management.
FLAGSHIP UPDATES: PREMIUM & SEEK
The limited space available at this trade fair alone necessitates a strong curation. In the Premium portfolio, Berlin labels like Naomi Tarazi, Helena Stölting and Prinz Berlin meet Italian designs by Filippo De Laurentiis, Shaft Jeans, Peuterey, Floor, international brands like Silk Laundry, Ruby Yay, Crush and some brands from Ukraine. Seek focuses on outdoor fashion with Heritage, Y2K, Modern Sportswear Jack Wolfskin, Helino or Heimatplanet. New to the concept are Superga, Sebago, Blue Blanket and Chpo, among others. The Conscious Club welcomes sustainable brands such as Veja, Dawn Denim, Kings of Indigo or Lanius. The Berlin Scents format with niche labels from the fragrances sector is among the innovations, as is the activation with D2C brands, which are opening up to the B2B wholesale business for the first time.
July 11 and 12, 2023, Station Berlin, www.premium-group.com
Providing impetus for brands and designers: Sebastian Klinder gathers drivers of innovation at Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone.
Anyone who wants to experience the current transformation of the industry and its driving technologies will meet at Munich Fabric Start in the Keyhouse area. We ask: why?
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director Munich Fabric Start: The Keyhouse is exactly what its name suggests - it is a keyhole through which you can see the future of our industry. We bring together established drivers of innovation with start-ups, present industry-ready technology providers alongside green ideas for the future that still need to be scaled up.
How do you manage to continuously transport this highly sophisticated, intellectual content to visitors?
The basis for any content that a fabric fair produces should be that it lives up to its core mission: Demonstrating reliability in bringing the right people together at the right time and providing them with a place where they can work successfully in a professional atmosphere. Then, part of a value-added platform is a forum that offers guidance on fashion’s most seasonally relevant topic: inspiration and trends. And very important is the mantle - the opportunity to network. We always see Munich Fabric Start as a holistic system that can only be successful for exhibitors and visitors if all these dimensions interlock and build on each other.
What can we expect at the upcoming event?
We’ll be celebrating 20 years of Bluezone at the beginning of July - that’s guaranteed to be a party that no one from the denim industry should miss. Also, for the second time, The Source will be our answer to changing sourcing behavior. In addition, this summer marks the first season in which we implement our rhythm adapted to ordering behavior with RE:VIEW and PRE:VIEW.
www.munichfabricstart.com
Munich Fabric Start July 18-20, 2023, Bluezone July 18-19, 2023, View Premium Selection September 13-14, 2023.
Italian label Bob, represented in Germany and Austria by die Hinterhofagentur in Munich, comes to the market this spring/summer season with a range of new overshirts, jackets with light down linings and washed field jackets, in addition to its charismatic T-shirts and polos with prints of much-loved cult vehicles. In typical Bob fashion, everything is done with a natural ease. The classic American Woodland camouflage pattern, for example, actually looks a bit ironic on Hawaiian flower and palm leaf motifs. www.bob.it
The leather specialists are presenting three new qualities this season.
Natural lamb nappa, deerskin of the deluxe class, which is characterized by a distinctive grain and extreme suppleness, and calfskin nubuck.
“When the finest calfskin is additionally refined by grinding on the grain, this is the pinnacle of leather for clothing. It makes it summery light, because we process the article in a thickness of 0.4 millimeters,” explains owner Jochen Bauer. New is the Brünn model, a style in a sporty and purist design with open cut edges. www.heinzbauer.com
The second round of RR’s in the DACH countries has begun, with what highlights?
Niccolò Biondi, CEO Sevenbell Group: RR’s puts its focus on denim. We are presenting a wide range of washes.
What are the special features of RR’s denim?
We use first-class quality, you can feel in every detail that we are professionals: precise seams, innovative cuts and a perfect fit. We also pay attention to sustainability and optimize our processes in terms of environmental protection.
What are RR’s goals for the season?
We want to expand our market presence and increase our customer base. We want to find our place at the top of the market. To do this, we rely on targeted marketing strategies, a strong presence in the sales channels and close cooperation with our retail partners. Our product is winning over customers and we are optimistic that this will be a good season.
Fiesoli
An ode to simplicity: “When everything is in flux, people look for certainty and lightness: positivity is the key,” says Daniele Fiesoli, founder and designer of the eponymous made-in-Italy knitwear label. The feel of the collection is impressive: supima cotton, mercerized cotton, silk and linen guarantee durability. Always easy to wear and combine, with charming details and timeless sophistication. The colors? “Sunny, like rays of sunshine that warm the soul,” says Daniele Fiesoli.
Floris van Bommel
Celia Šašić, two-time European soccer champion and Europe’s female soccer player of the year, Philipp Lahm, soccer icon, and Floris van Bommel are realizing a joint charity project with the New Generation sneaker. In doing so, they are promoting social participation and equal opportunities. The proceeds from sales will be donated to the Philipp Lahm Foundation for Sport and Education, which was founded in 2007. It promotes healthy lifestyles and social awareness, diversity and integration to support disadvantaged children and young people.
www.philipp-lahm-stiftung.de, www.florisvanbommel.com
Tom Ripley
Only Tom Ripley succeeds in this bridge-building: since the first collection, the timeless chic of the 1950s has been at its heart, but there is so much high-precision knitting technology in the shirts, polos and sweaters. Tom Ripley’s in-house design and product development team brings that to the table, and the collection is implemented in sustainably minded Italian family-run factories. “We have deepened our concept and at the same time developed new facets,” says owner Wolfgang Müller. This comes at just the right time, because Tom Ripley is setting the signs for expansion beyond its traditional markets. At the Pitti Uomo, the company is celebrating its premiere on the international stage. A premiere that feels like a homecoming, because not only the colors of the collection reflect the colors of the Italian summer. Polos in artful knits, also combined with jersey, terry polos with Cuban collars, light summer knits in mercerized cotton and lots of hidden function that noticeably improves comfort. Ice Cotton as a polo or T-shirt with a cooling effect, for example. The creative focus is on the imaginative design of all details: whether collars or patterned decorative fabrics in neck flaps and button bands. A real unique selling point: Tom Ripley’s knitted polos offer a wide range of variations to suit customers’ individual tastes and styles. Models with shawl collars or mocknecks with 1/2-zip are the height of fashion. They are mainly made of pure organic cotton or a blend with silk content. tom-ripley.com
My Best Bag is part of the Florence Bags group, which focuses on Italian craftsmanship and supports small workshops. Produced in small production sites around Florence, the sustainable approach is to recycle surplus leather pieces from the Italian luxury leather goods industry. The label’s standout model is the Reflex bag with three compartments, finished with calfskin and gold-plated metal elements. The bag features a shoulder strap made from plexiglass –eye-catching yet almost invisible.
www.florence-bags.com
Expertise down to the smallest detail: The brands of Giemme Brandscorporate Srl.
Anja, this year Phil Petter is celebrating 50 years in business, and you’ve found a workable structure that will allow your parents to slowly exit the company. If you had to articulate one thing that has always distinguished you over the 50 years, what would it be?
Anja Petter, Managing Director and Creative Director Phil Petter: That we have resisted the temptations to move our production all these years. When my parents started, Dornbirn and Vorarlberg were strongholds of textile production, now we are one of the last knitters. The Lake Constance region has one of the highest value-added ratios in Europe, and wages and costs are correspondingly high - yet there is not a thought in our family’s mind, nor in that of our new majority owner, of relocating production. How do you carry made-in-Austria into the world?
By inviting our partners here. Vorarlberg is a special corner of Austria, progressive, innovative, with a lot of curiosity
This season, blouse and shirt specialists Giemme Brandscorporate Srl once again cover every need of the market with their versatile brand portfolio. Robert Friedman, for example, breaks with conventions for spring/summer 2024 and offers a fresh look for all occasions: transparency with organza and sequins embody elegance, while ethno appliqués and ornate embroidery provide a hippie feel and hipness. The color palette is varied and ranges all the way to neon colors. Caliban has remained true to the brand core and presents feminine silhouettes with innovative volumes and good fits.
about the world. We will celebrate our 50th anniversary in the fall with companions, and we want to show a piece of it.
No Pitti Uomo this time?
As a “nice collection, see you in the showroom” platform, the investment does not stand for it. We have agents in Europe, Canada, USA and Japan, which underlines how important export is to us.
Your strategy for the season?
We want to get even closer to our trade customers. Webshop and B2B portal are new, now it’s even easier to follow up NOS items and stock. We have to make much more use of short distances; the great advantage of a microfactory in the middle of Europe is this flexibility. We want to emphasize that even more.
With what, specifically?
Accessibility. Phil Petter is a small company, there is a person behind every action, we always have an open ear. That’s exactly what fascinated Alps Business Partner AG, which has been on board since January: How we have remained so consistent and yet so approachable over all these years. philpetter.com
Pin 1876 the cashmere label has received the coveted Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) certification. This award confirms a commitment to sustainability and adherence to the highest environmental and social standards. The SFA is committed to sustainable animal fiber production and promotes responsible agricultural practices. The award reinforces customer confidence and the company’s position as a pioneer of sustainable luxury fashion. “We will continue to expand our commitment to sustainability and fairness to drive positive change,” said Alberto Zia, Managing Director of the brand.
The last few years spent without trade fairs made it clear to Alberto: the industry needs emotions and direct experiences. “In the year one after 100, it is the right time for us to show our Alberto highlights in the context of forward-looking trade fair concepts - both nationally and internationally.” explains Marco Lanowy, Managing Director of Alberto. “Because it’s clear that despite all the digitalization, 80 percent of business still happens through physical contact.” alberto-pants.com
Mr. Fusco, is there a need for a new ideal woman to design modern collections?
Enzo Fusco, owner Blauer USA: Our concept of femininity has always been in flux, and we express that with every collection. We are experiencing a strong socio-cultural change and have completely new ways and methods of informing ourselves, and showing ourselves. This has turned the idea of femininity in our industry on its head. What characterizes the Blauer USA woman?
Independent, free from anything that limits her. Unafraid to leave traditional gender boundaries behind. Of course, we are aware
that with our collection we do not represent the niche, but a certain commerciality. That’s why we implement it in a correspondingly sensitive way. But the new freedom is very inspiring!
Micro or macro trends?
In general, it is far from our intention to impose something on our customers. We want to fit into their lives with our aesthetics and be a brand that clearly and explicitly shows what makes it tick. That creates a sense of direction.
Mainetti Italia tailors its products to the individual needs of their customers. The ironing and packaging specialist is currently growing by offering intelligent solutions.
Excellent growth forecasts for 2023 make Mainetti Italia, a specialist for clothes hangers, polybags, paper bags, boxes, garment bags, labels and RFID tags, optimistic. Products for e-commerce are a particular driver - here Mainetti Italia is investing heavily at its headquarters in Treviso. A machine park has been launched there that can produce 20 million paper mailing bags a year. To properly communicate the versatility of its services, the company has relaunched
its website and implemented B2B and B2C communication channels. The new corporate presentation focuses on sustainability initiatives such as Full Circle, Hangerloop and Polyloop, patented systems for the reuse of clothes hangers and poly bags. The entire Mainetti Italia product world can be experienced offline during the Première Vision (July 4 to 6), MilanoUnica (July 11 to 13) and Munich Fabric Start (July 18 to 20) trade fairs. italy.mainetti.com
Baby Boomers x Next Generation: Wise Man Club.
Two seasoned warhorses sit down in Florence’s Gilli and decide to start a club that comes with a clothing label: Uwe Bernecker and Dieter Gramke are the driving forces behind the idea, which above all wants to give back. “We from the baby boomer generation want to pass on our experience. Casualness comes from many years in business.” Cargopants, shirts, sweats, the collection is the flagship of a platform for exchange and networking. The Wise Man Club supports charity projects with its proceeds and wants to give retailers a tool to appeal to the young-at-heart men with purchasing power. “Wise Men want the very best quality.” @wise_man_club
Unique in its kind: The Rains Puffer Sneaker is ready for global launch. For the implementation, the lifestyle outerwear brand worked closely with the 3D visionaries from Zellerfeld. This makes it possible to produce buffer elements within their printed structures at that are 90 percent air - all the touch of a button. This technological feat offers great advantages in terms of comfort, durability and design, and impressively demonstrates the superiority of 3D-printed footwear. www.rains.com, www.zellerfeld.com
Organic shapes, natural materials and color tones such as sand or green characterize the new Urban Sports department at Oberpollinger. Transparent plexiglass inserts and a pastel-colored floor create a sports hall flair. New in the range: cycling, golf, tennis, basketball and, from fall/winter 2023, American football (NFL). The equipment for golf and tennis will be replaced by skiwear and accessories during the winter season. The brand portfolio includes Bogner, Timberland, On Running or Peak Performance and Stronger. New additions are Caselli, Girlfriend Collective, Vuori, Houdini or Starter (NFL). www.oberpollinger.de
With the acquisition of Dutch denim brand Kings Of Indigo, the entrepreneurial couple Sebastian and Kathrin Proft have successfully expanded the portfolio of their three sustainable fashion companies Dollinger, Stapf and Felicitas & Hans. A lot of innovation in the product and pioneering work in sustainability underline the brand credo of always being two steps ahead. The company produces casual quality clothing without an expiration date and with a high sense of responsibility. The rejection of greenwashing and complete transparency of supply chains ensures the new technology “retraced”. This year, participations in Seek and Modefabriek are planned. www.kingsofindigo.com
Sporty: Oberpollinger’s downstairs focuses on urban sports.
Urban, international, even more exclusive: Birgit Pfeiff has handed over her fashion store Emerson Renaldi to her children Olivia and Lloyd Pfeiff. At the same time, the Nuremberg store underwent a complete makeover and presents itself as contemporary and urban, with Balenciaga, Celine, Saint Laurent, Jacquemus, Casablanca and The Attico. In addition to its online presence with a webshop and Tiktok and Instagram accounts, events in the store also strengthen the community spirit, for example with art installations and in cooperation with designers and stylists. “We are heading for a new Renaldi era with fresh visions,” says Olivia Pfeiff. “We still have a lot of plans.” www.emerson-renaldi.com
How many hangers are thrown away? In the US alone, it is said to be 6.8 billion per year. High time not to use new plastic for them. Dutch design company Hooks Creative appropriately uses textile waste to make new hangerswhich makes for an intriguing look. There are also organic hangers made from corn, coffee and other materials. The new process for reprocessing textile scraps can be used creatively in many ways. Goods carriers and furniture can also be made from it, they can also be modelled after own designs, if wanted. hooks-creative.com
Pernille Teisbaek, Claudia Schiffer, Inès de la Fressange and many more muses: Not Shy translates female confidence into a cashmere collection that serves more than 900 retailers worldwide.
You can tell this collection is made by women.
Natacha Basic, Art Director Not Shy: I’m happy about that, because that guides us in our work. Our team is almost completely female and we design for women who are like us: In the middle of life, in business, mothers, partners.
Mercédéh Vafaï, Sales Director: I admire Natacha, how she combines strength and femininity. Not Shy has sensuality and sexiness, but at the same time everyday compatibility. And there is always room for personality!
Is there a secret?
Natacha Basic: Flatter instead of expose. Our bestseller Faustine fits many figures and I love to see how women gain self-confidence in it.
Mercédéh Vafaï: I think we have a healthy image of women in Paris. We’ve never been reduced to playing female roles, so that’s a head start.
In textile prepress, recycling and circular are the topics par excellence - as proven by trade fairs such as Kingpins in Amsterdam and Munich Fabric Start. In Amsterdam, Officina39 presented a new patent. At least 65 percent of the 15 colors are made from recycled materials. They are suitable for cotton, wool, nylon and any cellulose and natural fiber or blends. The new colors are created through true upcycling without chemical synthesis. 100 kilograms of textile waste provide enough dye to dye 20,000 T-shirts. www.officina39.com
Ultralight, versatile, and minimalist, Less is Houdini Sportswear‘s take on outfits that can do more than just work for a specific occasion. Together with [A]industri, the brand developed a collection that avoids waste and is produced on demand. To achieve this, 3D technology is combined with craftsmanship and every detail is reduced to its essence. This reduces volume and increases the longevity of the collection. Manufacturing is done from one piece of fabric, which greatly reduces waste. www.houdinisportswear.com
An innovative combination: THDP and Italamp. In this cooperation, the luminaire manufacturer relies on borosilicate glass; a type of glass that can withstand even extreme temperature fluctuations. Its durability has made it the preferred choice for upscale restaurants, laboratories and wineries. Now it is making its way into fashion and lifestyle, the key argument being that borosilicate glass is a sustainable material because it is produced from naturally occurring raw materials, which are plentiful. Fun fact: the lights are named after Casanova’s mistress. https://www.thdpdesign.com/
Self-confident femininity with extravagant coolness, that’s Patrizia Pepe. The current pre-collection features elegant, daring dresses in stretch crêpe, as well as leather and satin suits in shades of gold and green, ivory skin and amber. Eye-catchers: A zebra and a digital aura print.
For casual glam, sequin-embroidered suits, rhinestone-trimmed cotton and outerwear with a gold coating add a modern twist when mixed with cargo pants and jeans in whitewashed pink denim. Other
After a long wave of casualization (keyword home office) there is now something like an elegant backlash. Good times for Joop Women?
Anke Ratzsch, Brand Director Joop Women: A lot of women are in the mood for style, for a look, and they celebrate it with self-confidence. All too understandable. With Joop Women, this is always combined with a strong dash of sexiness and glamour.
Dress up as an individual push in complicated times?
Yes, and this positive hedonism is good for us as an industry. Fashion is more than just a secondary matter. It is part of your personality.
Are we also seeing something like a Business Look 3.0 as a result?
But in a really completely new definition for a new generation. At the core, it’s always about this day-to-night look, in which women can seamlessly switch between easy-going and formal. Depending on what her everyday life requires at the moment. With the Loredana Capsule, Joop has achieved a real coup. Does she represent the working mom of Gen Z? In any case, she is an exceptionally interesting woman and artist and much more than simply a bridge to the young target group.
Continuation planned?
Now we are looking forward to the official launch in September, together with Loredana, accompanied by an equally authentic 360-degree marketing campaign. For us, there is more potential and imagination in this theme than a one-off drop.
Joop Women is developing highly successfully in what is, to put it mildly, a volatile market. What has been done right? And even more important: What do they want to continue doing right in the near future?
As part of the realignment of Joop Women 2019, we redefined our look - balanced between casual and dressed up. In doing so, we specifically went back to the core of the brand. Sexiness, a pinch of bling every now and then, no fear of colors and the cornflower as an icon. This is how we won over many women. We will continue on this path, always open to surprises and innovation.
„Fashion is more than just a secondary matter.“ Anke Ratzsch, Brand Director Joop Women
“Away from quantity, towards value and sustainable favorite pieces. That’s how we understand Cinque.”
CINQUE
Focusing on essentials, leaving out what is not necessary: Cinque’s collections bring signature looks with a clear signature for the spring/summer 2024 season.
Womenswear styles are based on refined, natural colors, with fabric finishes such as crash, pleated and smocked details. Silhouettes return to bodycon and sexiness, where ruffles and flowing materials further accentuate the figure. Highlights are set with monochrome outfits and all-over prints.
The new look in menswear puts the focus on new silhouettes. Unconstructed jackets with wide, straightcut pants made of light, high-quality materials are the symbol of this new lightness. Colors like pink with navy or terra with bright orange set accents. The most important companions: Knitted polo shirts. www.cinque.de
NEW COLORS
NEW DIMENSIONS
NEW VALUE
“Ready-to-wear in color and in new, unconstructed silhouettes speak a language of lightness.” Guido Ostländer, Head of Design Men
Verena-Idalie Geiger, Head of Design Women
What is Tatras’ statement for the coming season?
Giacomo Serrati, Tatras Sales Manager: “A best-of combination of style with functionality, with particularly light, breathable materials that are ideal for the warm season. We benefit from 15 years of experience, also in the research of highly innovative materials. For example, we mainly use high-quality tech garments from Japan for our collection.
Tatras stands primarily for outerwear but is now being developed further. Yes, since we have always specialized in outerwear, we are expanding the collection to a total look with skirts and pants, shirts and sweatshirts. With what fashion features?
With elements that are military inspired. These are cargo pockets and epaulettes, for example, as well as colors like khaki, beige tones and navy blue. The style remains urban, but is versatile, even for hiking in nature. www.tatras-official.com
Now the Tatras collection is being expanded into an urban total look.Giacomo Serrati, Tatras Sales Manager.
This fashion has favorite item appeal with new shapes and a special love for details, without being too playful. The focus is on high-quality knitwear, for example in cashmere, a cotton-cashmere blend or a new mix with 25 percent silk. This is true luxury on the skin and is used for plain sweaters and jackets from fine to coarse knits in a handknit look. The highlight of the collection is a wave pattern in gelato colors, other eye-catchers are a tight-fitting top with a midi skirt and a tunic dress in a summery crochet look as well as blouses and dresses with graphic prints in the vibe of the 1970s. In general, more figure is shown again, with slim-fitting tops that look good with wide high-waist pants and skirts. On top there are trendy cropped sweaters, cardigans and under layers in ultra-fine merino yarn. Mint green, azure blue, sunny yellow, gelato pink and flamingo pink promise a summery feel and are soothingly grounded by off-white, sand, cinnamon and black. www.bloom-fashion.de
Uncompromising design without fuss: BloomBloom shows a lot of high-quality knitwear with a Mediterranean spirit for spring/summer 2024.
More sustainability and transparency: the Italian pants specialist now uses only ZDHC-certified fabrics that meet high chemical safety standards or materials with a minimum 30 percent admixture of recycled fibers. The Italian company also follows strict guidelines for ingredients and production, thus committing itself to even greater product safety and environmental protection. Another plus for the pants: the proven Waist-Comfort-Band technology, which offers special wearing comfort, is now used for all models. A new feature is a split V in the back waistband, for an even better fit. Another indication that the product specialist is working to constantly improve their product. Narrow silhouettes characterize the collection, which is now complemented by new cargoes. The colors are inspired by Provence with neutral to warm tones. New energy is given by yellow, purple, apple green as well as shades of blue, from sky blue to ultramarine. www.gtamoda.com
Summery natural colors with fresh accents.
Hiltl’s spring/summer 2024 collection features high-quality casual and comfortable formal wear with plenty of smart elegance. Soft tailoring is consistently implemented via the workmanship. The way modern men dress shows a subtle shift in outfits that are multi functional, stylish yet comfortable. Lightweight seersucker and papertouch qualities inspired by Italian serenity combine casu alness and refined style. Timeless classics made of exclusive fabrics and cuts in high-quality workmanship combine stylistic confidence with maximum wearing comfort. Practical details include drawstrings, elastic waistbands, cell phone pockets, hidden safety pockets and water- and wind-repellent materials. Produced in Germany, the collection shows more polish, more chic and brings together masterpieces in which craftsmanship and zeitgeist merge as a matter of course. This is all about the balance between the past and the future, underlining the brand’s identity. www.hiltl.de
This season, Herrlicher is playing up its undisputed expertise in the selection of its fabrics. And not only in denims, but also in the finest linen, twill, poplin, Tencel viscose, fine corduroy, check patterns or counting qualities. “Our weavers have delivered great results in new developments after the pandemic. It’s fun to buy and process the fabrics. The price-performance ratio is also right, and the fabrics are high-quality and durable,” explains Erwin O. Licher. The result is sanded surfaces, super-soft constellations, using unusual mixtures of Tencel and Lyocell linen, double-knitted and ultra-light. On the one hand, the desire for quiet understated luxury is growing again; on the other hand, the army theme from field jackets to pilot pants is becoming stronger. Equally important are blazers, shirt jackets and discreetly masculine suits for women. www.herrlicher.com
“We make an unbeatable denim offer in all categories, from the best weaving mills in Europe and the Middle East.”
Erwin O. Licher
Casual, relaxed yet elegant: the Cruna man.
The Italian label is known for high-quality products made in Italy with short supply chains. The men’s collection spring/summer 2024 is designed for the modern flâneur: the Cruna man is plenty busy, but knows how to enjoy his free time. A perfect wardrobe for the city or a private retreat, the designers were inspired by gardens. Cruna moves between these two worlds while always maintaining its signature elevated casual style. High quality materials such as seersucker, linen and technical fabrics are used, with many fabrics coming from Marzotto. Once again, Cruna scores with a capsule: Studio focuses on technical, high-performance fabrics, particularly from Japan. The color palette combines tones of urban settings like beige, ivory, hazelnut and navy blue, with colors of the outdoors like mauve, bright green, muted yellow and sky blue. www.cruna.com
SALT 01 18–19.07 2023
SALT 02 25–27.08 2023
2964 GARMISCH
ALPENHERZ
ANNO DOMINI DESIGN
ATELIER ALPINISTE
BELLA SUSI
COCOVERO
CREATION BAUER
DADDY’S DAUGHTERS
DIRNDL+BUA
FARM UM’S HERZ
GEORG MAIER
GLÜCKLICH
GOISER
GOTTSEIDANK
GRASEGGER
GRENZGANG
HEIMATGLÜCK
JOSEF&ANNA
LATINO
LEDAF
LEMBERT HUTFABRIK
LENA HOSCHEK
LODENFREY 1842
LODENWEAR BY STEINER
LOTTA LOVE
LUIS TRENKER
MEINDL FASHION
ME°RCHEN ME°DCHEN
MICHAELA FEYRSINGER
MOISMONT
MONTEFUEGO
MÜNCHNER LODENFABRIK
ONE DAY BABY
ORIGINAL HAFERL
OSTWALD LEDERMANUFAKTUR
PLOOM
POLDI
RESI HAMMERER
ROCKMACHERIN
SARAH FREISE
SCHUHWERK SCHWANGAU
SEENBERG
SPORTALM
STAJAN KUNST & MODE
STEPHAN BABARINO
STOKTON
STYLE ICON
THEA MIKA
VERBENAS
VON & ZU
WALLMANN
WILDSTELLE
WOLKENSTRICKER
@saltsalzburg – www.salt-salzburg.at
Precise targeting, relevance and mission: new and emerging brands are always able to capture retailers’ hearts when they are almost self-explanatory. Our picks of the season.
Vanisé. At home in the Italian knitting cluster of Carpi, Gioia S.r.l. of Capri previously produced only for well-known other brands. Knitting technology at the highest level is their philosophy, with perfectly coordinated processes and state-of-the-art technology. A 100 percent Italian product is now promised by its own brand Vanisé. Founded two years ago, with a focus on cashmere styles that are very fashion-forward. A wide range of bold hues and trendy styles with a cool touch characterize the collection. Vanisé also offers a NOS program and therefore short delivery times for repeat orders. The contact for sales is the Aco agency. www.vanise.it, www.acomode.at
Amendi. The Swedish-American denim label is not only special and contemporary thanks to its casual elegance with a twist. There‘s also an honest commitment to the environment behind it. “All pieces are made from certified organic, recycled or discarded materials in Turkey,” says co-founder Andreas Åhrman. Fabrication Facts labels, a website and social media make the styles transparent and traceable across all processes. On top of that comes a Resurrection collection in four drops per year, for which leftover fabrics from luxury brands are processed for shirts, dresses and jackets for men and women, limited and handmade in Sweden. www.amendi.com
James Ay. The Danish label uses plant-based materials for its sunglasses - without compromising on the acetate usually used in eyewear. The lenses have a UV 400 filter. There is a choice of eleven models in up to six colors, with retail prices ranging from 140 to 170 euros. Lagom Fashion Agency handles sales in Germany, while in Switzerland there is a cooperation with Severin Steiner’s agency Eins Zwei Eins. Customers include Fidelio in Zurich, Mode Weber in St. Gallen, Bailly Diehl in Frankfurt and Sören in Hagen.
www.jamesay.com
Huge Jpg. This made-in-Italy label was founded by Alberto Bonvento, former model and actor, together with Daniele Rocco Casati. It’s for people who live outside stereotypical fashion concepts and want to dress free of genre, origin or physicality. In its collections, the brand offers a wide range of genderless styles from t-shirts to hoodies, jackets, pants and accessories - all produced in high quality and with a strong sports couture look. “We believe in playful exchange between the masculine and the feminine, where men and women draw on each other’s wardrobes and thus create a fluid fashion language,” says Bonvento. www.hugejpgofficial.com, @hugejpg
Maluo. The USP? A comfortably cushioned footbed with a suede surface for summer sandalsclassically timeless, with a playful touch. The spring/summer collection includes sandals and slip-ons in soft, natural shades. Thus, the Dutch label Maluo by twin sisters Kim and Janet Beukeboom convinces with a recognizably unique style - and with the craftsmanship expertise of a family business in Portugal. At retail prices between 99 and 149 Euros, with a mark-up of 2.7. www.maluo.nl
Amish. Founded in Milan in 2015, the label has been part of the Sevenbell Group brand portfolio (including Roy Roger’s, RR’s) since 2020. With Roy Roger’s, which in 1952 produced the first jeans made entirely in Italy from American denim, Sevenbell’s heritage makes it the ideal partner for a streetwear collection like Amish. The pieces are designed for non-conformist young wearers who have a desire for vintage-inspired shapes, volumes and fits that are still extremely new in interpretation. Amish also stands for innovation in processing materials, as well as quality and attention to detail. amishsupplies.it, @amish.supplies
Peoples Republic of Cashmere.
The Scandinavian brand has six different certification programs. Peoples Republic of Cashmere thus documents its responsibility towards people, animals and nature. In addition, the brand stands for particularly durable and timeless articles. The clear Scandinavian style is ideal for this, and production in a small but renowned family business in Inner Mongolia ensures credibility. For the collection, which comes in a wide range of colors, only A-quality cashmere is used, which guarantees durability and less pilling.
www.heydekamp-fashion.de, www.peoplesrepublicofcashmere.com
OAS. Espadrilles and Sweden? The OAS resort collection was born out of a yearning for year-round summer. Now providing customers worldwide with its beach and leisure wear, OAS reported sales of ten million Euros in 2022, double the previous year’s figure. The brand owes its success to its strong relationship with international retailers such as Boon The Shop, Liberty and Mr. Porter, as well as its clout in its own e-commerce. OAS received a real push from the HBO series “The White Lotus,” Quentin Tarantino’s “Once Upon a Time in Hollywood” and the South Korean pop group BTS, who wore OAS bathrobes in a music video. www.oascompany.com @oascompany
Scandinavian Edition. Jacket for minimalists: the Danish brand stands for super lightweight, timeless premium urban outerwear with a superior feel and the perfect mix of minimalist simplicity and function. For spring/summer 2024, there are ten styles for men and eight for women, in three colors each. The retail prices for summer jackets range from 200 to 500 Euros, the winter ones from 300 to 850 Euros. In addition to Supreme in Dusseldorf and Munich, it will also be shown at the Copenhagen trade fair. Key accounts include Greta & Luis, My Classico, My Meissner, Dipol, Sören, and in Switzerland Weber, Ledergerber and CPH Fashion. www.scandinavianedition.com
Arrel. Three friends, one idea: in 2022 they founded Arrel. The socks made by the Wuppertal-based brand differ from the classic tennis sock by their fine materiality, and through statements such as “Equality”, “Love” or “Liberté, Egalité, Fckafdé”. Currently, the collection consists of twelve tennis socks for adults and four for children. Production takes place in Lithuania with GOTS-certified organic cotton. The packaging is 100 percent plastic-free. Purchase prices ranges from 6.50 to 7.50 Euros for adults and 5.50 to 6.50 Euros for children’s models, depending on the quantities ordered. Deliveries and repeat orders are usually dispatched within three working days. www.arrel.de, @arrel.de
Afrisocks. Since 2018, Afrisocks has combined the bright colors of the Old World with Western fashion. A recipe that went viral: more than 100,000 socks have now been sold in more than 72 countries and the range has been expanded to include accessories such as ties, laptop bags and face masks. The customer base includes people who like to jazz up their wardrobes with bold colors and patterns. The sock collections are made with Oeko-Tex certified cotton, and the prints come from Ghana, where production also takes place. www.afrisocks.com, @afrisocks
Socksss. A really good tennis sock with a lot of wit in the design: Socksss focuses on socks. To achieve this, the Swedish brand relies on functional design combined with comfort, quality and sustainability. With its partners, Socksss is constantly working to improve the ecological balance of its products and is developing alternative options based on renewable resources. The retail price ranges from 20 to 40 Euros per pair. The products are unisex, available in two sizes, and are sold in a virtual showroom as well as through Room with a view as a distribution partner in Austria. www.socksss.com, @socksssofficial
Just a consumer?
Not since some time! As trendsetters, entrepreneurs and top performers, women have conquered a place in fashion that is rightfully theirs. The female shift is good for this industry: it complements values that are so important today, such as entrepreneurial prudence and design for generations. More of this!
If you want to not only understand but also feel how much fascination and positive energy can be found in the fashion industry, you should simply meet Caterina Venturini and Valentina Taglioli. We did just that and talked to them in Milan, among other things, about their start-up Two/Do, the changing role of the buyer and the new interaction between consumers, brands and retailers.
Modern entrepreneurs with a wealth of expertise: Valentina Taglioli gained experience at Moncler and as a buyer at Silvia Bini, while Caterina Venturini, a former buyer at Eraldo, is now a lecturer at the IED for Omnichannel Fashion Buying. They have elevated this knowledge to a new level with their company Two/Do.
refers to the number, and it refers to the action. What is to be done and what are you two doing?
Caterina Venturini: Two/ Do is the perfect name for a duo. We were friends at first and then decided to work together. That’s how we became business partners as well. We thought about this collaboration for a long time and it took us a while to get to this point. Two/Do means two people, two friends, two professionals who bring their skills and knowledge to an industry that is in the midst of a comprehensive transformation.
Valentina Taglioli: We both are doers. Women of action. We love traveling, we love to discover, we love to try new things.
How long have you two known each other?
Caterina Venturini: We first met in 2016 in a showroom. Working in fashion is like going to the same university. You attend a course together, you get to talk, you get to know each other, it’s the same thing. We liked each other, but we didn’t have the opportunity to spend time together, but sometimes we had a coffee or a drink.
And then what was the start for the idea for Two/Do?
Valentina Taglioli: During the pandemic, when suddenly the world stopped, we felt like all people. Everyone was afraid because things we took for granted no longer worked. Meeting people, traveling, etc. At the same time, we were convinced that this change also offered opportunities. We had to find another way, a new way, to do the work we love. And being in Milan, one of the most important places for fashion, we thought we could offer our expertise to retailers who are further away, for example in the south of Italy, and currently could not travel. That’s how our idea was born. It came naturally, and then
we started to grow with this idea of a very charismatic service. We wanted to focus our business on finding new brands. With the big brands, a new infrastructure was in place very quickly, a lot of things could be done online. But with smaller or new brands, it wasn’t so easy. Sometimes, actually always, you have to look and touch and feel the collections of these new talents yourself. It is, after all, a very visual and tactile industry.
Valentina Taglioli: A garment may look really great in pictures, but you have to touch it and understand the fit. So, we started to focus on that kind of thing. Also, during Covid, most Italian boutiques started selling a lot online, which wasn’t so common before. When you shop online, it’s often very shallow, people play it safe and buy what they know. In Italy there are so many beautiful boutiques, they help cultivate our identities. In no other country there are so many highend stores, about 120 for luxury first lines, which means a lot because Italy is not so big. To maintain and develop this diversity is really important.
There is a certain mainstream that is firmly defined by luxury brands. Is that also why it’s so important for curators like you to create a new idea of luxury, a new idea of style that doesn’t follow these rules set by the big players?
Caterina Venturini: Balenciaga, just to give you an example, when I started 12 years ago, we were in their showroom and we thought, I’ll take this one, I can pair it with Chloé shoes, or with a Valentino skirt, with this bag... it was fun to buy like that. Then Balenciaga became more and more important. Bigger than life. Now when you go to the showroom in Paris, you have to have a certain budget and do three looks - overall looks, must-have looks. It doesn’t matter at all if you like them or if they fit your store. You can’t choose to combine this with that, you can only agree and sign. Smaller designers don’t push you as much to do or buy what they want, you can still choose or mix and match, and you’re less tied to big budgets. All in all, it’s a better experience.
You already mentioned that you both brought a lot of experience and background from your previous jobs in the fashion business. Is the kind of knowledge
and skills you have more important than ever today? As this job became more complicated…
Valentina Taglioli: I would not say more complicated, it’s different.
Love the approach. So - what’s the difference?
Caterina Venturini: Today socials like Instagram or TikTok, people are seeing what is happening in real time. When I was young, I had to wait six months to see something. On the one hand, this is more democratic, on the other hand, today’s customers are often even too prepared or committed. They know exactly which color they want. Once, you could buy this dress in two colors, black and white, and the customer didn’t know if there
were other colors. Now, “I want it in green, do you have it?” It’s very different. You can’t trick them anymore, they’re really prepared.
So today, is the consumer the driving power in fashion?
Caterina Venturini: Half and half. It depends on the brand, because some brands, some designers have an idea, a vision, and they are strong enough to push it through. If you like it, you buy it, and if you don’t, you don’t. And then there are brands who don’t have a clear vision of their own, but are very sneaky. Remember when Bridgerton came out? Everyone wanted to wear corsets, the Bridgerton aesthetic. So, they said: “I don’t like corsets, but I know it works, so let’s do it!” This way, it’s easy because you’re betting
on a sure thing. That’s why Valentina said the consumer is very confused, because brands with a vision and without a vision are all mixed together. It is difficult to understand which brand is leading the market.
It’s like everybody’s a doctor today, knows exactly what their symptoms are, and won’t listen to anything else.
Valentina Taglioli: Everybody, I mean the consumer, us, we have all this information that makes it more complicated to focus. When we do our job, we have to pick up on macro aesthetics, macro trends and there are so many things at once. Our previous knowledge helps us, because over all these years, we have developed a sixth sense, we smell it like dogs. There’s skill, there’s experience, for sure
THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR THE PHYSICAL SHOPPING EXPERIENCE; PEOPLE ARE LOOKING FOR THAT.
Caterina and Valentina handle the buying for Dante 5 (bottom right) in Bari and Monopoli. For SOTF (top left) in Prato, Two/Do initiated a buying process for the women’s segment as part of a store rejuvenation project. Wise (top right) relies on the duo’s scouting talent, which led to the introduction of brands
also love, but there has to be talent, too.
Caterina Venturini: I think of it like this: there are two groups, the ones that have talent and the ones that know how to manage numbers really well. Ok, that’s also a talent. That’s an interesting theory also for your work, because what you’re doing is also about numbers.
Valentina Taglioli: Yes. In fact, we have budget meetings, we see the commerce, approve a lot of the stock, but after these meetings, we go to the boutique. We speak with the people in the store for hours. Sometimes numbers are very important because in the end, the business has to work. But we like to talk with the people in the shop to hear their impressions, feelings. You have to mix hard and soft.
I wanted to go into details to understand how this is actually works and this is super interesting. So, you also talk to the people on the floor?
Valentina Taglioli: Yes, this is very important. Maybe the sales are not good, then you go to the shop and understand that the problem is that the goods arrived too late and
couldn’t be properly displayed. At the same time, we try to explain our vision to them. We are a little bit forward and we share our vision of buying. We try to mix up these two categories, numbers and feelings, vision. Sometimes we create the perfect budget and then decide to stall because we’re not ready for something new yet.
But that’s your freedom then? You have a general idea of the direction, but then you have a certain amount of freedom to switch, to try new things?
Valentina Taglioli: Based on trust.
One of the most important things for you is to also discover new talent?
Caterina Venturini: Because the natural consequence of our work is to give those new talents a platform, to help them develop a collection and to take a direction in a market which is very tough. One little mistake can kill a collection, so we try to give them detailed advice on how to enter the market. In the past, we saw so many beautiful projects choose the wrong direction on the way, often the whole problem came from small details.
Let’s focus on positive examples. I totally understand that this is one of the most exciting parts of your job, to discover new things and look how this will develop, so looking back on let’s say the last two years, what are two or three examples of brands that you really love?
Valentina Taglioli: For example, HODAKOVA is a new project we discovered two seasons ago in Paris. And then followed their development. We believe they are amazing, and we talked to our clients and said it’s a little bit difficult to sell, but there is something so cool about this. In the end, nobody bought the collection, and it was very hard for them to grow. One month ago, Gucci asked their designer to create a look, so it’s definitely coming now.
Caterina Venturini: We also have an example closest to us, we have Alessandro Vigilante. Alessandro is a guy we met two years ago in a small office. He had only six pieces in his collection. He is a dancer, he loves fashion and women, and he had a very sexy aesthetic - this was before the sexy trend came up. We found his pieces amazing, and we pushed him to meet up with an important showroom, which is now growing with him.
Now he’s in all the stores and he’s loved by celebrities.
Would you agree that these brands or designers with a vision are becoming stronger again, that more customers are looking for that? Clear idea, clear story, clear identity.
Valentina Taglioli: Yes, we all think so and we try to promote it. And we strongly believe that the multi-brand store is the best place to promote and foster it, because the vision they give to consumers is so important. When you go to Antonia, there’s all these brands you can see and be inspired by. If you go to the Balenciaga retail shop, it’s like going to a wine cellar, you see it, you buy it. With multi-brand, there’s also this poetry.
I’ll be a little provocative now. Buying and doing the assortment should be at the core of any multi-brand retail. So why should they outsource this core to you?
Valentina Taglioli: To do real research, you have to go everywhere, see the presentations, all the time. Now that we are focusing our business on this kind of work, we can do it properly.
Caterina Venturini: It’s the only way to feel the enthusiasm of this industry. Sometimes, trust me, we are sad, too, because we find a strong new designer, show them to some colleagues, and they don’t understand us. We are in love, because we find someone fantastic and want the world to come and see. We are
very enthusiastic about our work. And at the same time, we work really hard.
So, the unfair advantage is that you see and experience more than they ever could? You have this holistic 360-degree picture and that’s what they get?
Caterina Venturini: Exactly! And above that we are able to customize this big picture to the individual needs of every client.
Valentina Taglioli: And beyond fashion. We are also taking a deep dive into beauty, perfumes, design, travel.
So, again it’s about a really holistic approach. How important is social media for your job?
Valentina Taglioli: It’s definitely a source. We see a lot of stuff on Instagram.
Caterina Venturini: Yes, but Instagram can be very tricky because sometimes when we do scout surfing, we put ten brands on our list, and then maybe five of them don’t exist, really. Or you go to see the collection and the fabrics are bad, but they’re amazingly photographed. I’m not a fan, but in bed at night, I do look at brands on Instagram. So as Valentina said, it’s a source.
Valentina Taglioli: But Instagram changed the way for buyers to buy. Sometimes we say, this might be difficult to sell, but it’s great for our Instagram stories. So that’s an interesting and in a way game-changing criterion: instagrammable.
Caterina Venturini: Sunglasses now are very
smart. Kind of the new perfume, the key to enter luxury, specially for Zoomers, because the range of prices is between 200 and 300, 400, 450 Euros. It’s an interesting first step into luxury buying for young consumers.
Valentina Taglioli: And glasses are VERY instagrammable!
You have already mentioned your passion for stationary multi-brand retail. Let’s go deeper into this. Phoebe Philo's long awaited new collection will be online only.
Valentina Taglioli: It’s a marketing strategy. And trust me, it will be sold out in no time.
Caterina Venturini: This is a drop and there is a huge and devoted fan base. This is how they started, but they definitely will go into physical retail. No one can substitute the physical experience. Because people want this experience.
You shape and influence trends. And you do it from a female perspective. Does that make a decisive difference?
Valentina Taglioli: Yes, absolutely. Not because women have to or should be influenced by our personal taste, but as women we simply understand certain demands or expectations of women better.
So, you actively have this in mind when you’re in Paris, Milan, New York etc.?
Caterina Venturini: Me? No, I buy what I like. I don’t think about our final customers. This is why we are two.
SOMETIMES WE CONSCIOUSLY BUY SOMETHING THAT IS DIFFICULT TO SELL SELL, BUT IS GREAT FOR FOR INSTAGRAM STORIES.
“A.W.A.K.E. MODE (pictures on the right) immediately captivated us with its art and cinema references. The poppy and colourful approach is very fresh.”
“Hodakova (picture on the left) takes the concept of recycling belts and metals to an innovative culmination where accessories are transformed into garments, unique pieces, and – ultimately – works of art.”
“Julfer (2nd picture from left) embraces the aesthetic of the 2000s. When we first spotted the brand, we immediately imagined it on international pop stars.”
Valentina Taglioli: In many aspects we are really different. And this not only important for our relationship, but maybe even more for our business. Friction generates creativity.
Caterina Venturini: We don’t fight, we respect our diversity. She’s very moody, but it passes quickly, and I respect that. And she respects that I don’t like to call and like to be in my own space. We always try to understand each other and to recognize our differences, because they are very precious. We taught each other a lot of things.
Valentina Taglioli: We try to balance each other out and we are very well attuned to that. We see the collection in the same light, with the same impression and vision. And yet each with their own approach. Caterina thinks about the final look, how to photograph it and then show it on Instagram. And I think about the customer.
That brings me back to the point: at the end of the day, it’s a business, and you’re ultimately also measured through economic success. Is that somehow also part of the fun, to see that it worked out?
Valentina Taglioli: Quite, but numbers are not the only decisive parameter. We also buy brands because we’re on a mission to heighten the image of a shop, to make it more contemporary and fit for the future. We see that we helped some of our customers stay in the market. There was this one store that was getting older and missing the boat, now it’s exploding. That’s very satisfying.
Caterina Venturini: There’s a clear vison. Buying is important and it’s at the core of our business. But everything is going in the direction of more scouting, and our vision is to have a big space one day. Classical showrooms will never die. But in a way that’s also an old concept, just like nine to five offices. We don’t have an office because we
don’t need it right now. We are on the road so much. And we live very closely together, so we work here, in this beautiful space. It’s all changing. So that’s why we would like to have a space that’s our lab, inviting people to experience and share our vision.
Valentina Taglioli: We take in new designers, support them because we have a lot of friends who do different things in the fashion industry, so we can create a kind of creative factory. Where we take in new brands every season, give them the opportunity not only to present themselves, but to be coached by experts in production, sourcing, communication and sales. Like a big hub. This is our dream.
DANIELE GHISELLI
+39 027 010 08 03
DANIELE@GHISELLI.COM
VIA G. SIDOLI 19
20129 MILAN, ITALY
CONTACT
HANS-PETER GABRIELLI
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HP@GABRIELLI-FASHION.DE
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80639 MUNICH, GERMANY
HETTY KEMPER
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"Why is the quiet luxury trend louder than ever?"
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Start-up spirit: 27-year-old Lea and 30-year-old Pia Wendenburg represent the vision and style of a new generation.
Pia and Lea Wendenburg launched their brand PiaLea with a specific idea in mind: The pieces you borrow from your sister and never intend to return.
You grew up scouting exceptional quality and a highly individual style through the Dantendorfer family business. How much of that is reflected in PiaLea?
Pia Wendenburg: These days, Dantendorfer stocks more than one hundred different brands, which we procure in partnership with our parents, following a distinct pattern. For us, it’s never about appearances, always about the very essence of a brand. Our aspiration at PiaLea is the same: to make the opposite of fast fashion sexy for our generation. We strive to design pieces that even our friends would love to own.
Lea Wendenburg: Exactly. If we had to choose a role model, it would certainly be Aspesi. We were involved in the buying process as teenagers and still love the brand for its excellent basics without expiry date. The fact that you can still enjoy wearing a blouse like the one I’m wearing today, 13 years down the line, is something truly special. Obviously, we can’t compare PiaLea with that just yet, but we design pieces with that example in mind. We strive to create something timeless and emotionally evocative. Which aspects are traditional, which ones are next gen?
Lea: Quality is our foundation – the fabrics, colour spectrum, manufacturers.
Pia: We stem from a family business with a long tradition, dating back to our grandfather, where the primary focus
has always been on quality, craftsmanship, and fair relations with the manufacturers. This is something we internalised from an early age, and it remains the be-all and end-all at both the family business and our own brand. Our decision to think in drops allows us to respond more quickly to customer feedback and launch small interim collections like the Capsule Taft & Crêpe for the Salzburg Festival. What growth strategies are in place?
Lea: The beauty is that PiaLea can grow without pressure. The feedback from our stores is incredibly important. There, as well as in the communication of our PR agency, the story that we are sisters and next-generation is very well received. Other retailers have already expressed interest in stocking the brand, but we intend to start in autumn/winter 2024, when we are fully prepared.
Pia: We are aware that PiaLea is only suited to retailers who share our philosophy.
Lea: On top of that, we didn’t launch PiaLea because we desire to scale infinitely. PiaLea is a fun project for us. It represents our view of fashion and the approach of a new generation to the world we live in.
Pia: Part of our collection is manufactured in Morocco by a social business founded by an Austrian woman. She has made it possible for 75 disabled seamstresses to provide outstanding quality and results that are truly remarkable. This combination is unique, and we are proud to collaborate with such a partner.
New luxury, quiet luxury, or soft luxury. Janaina EngelmannBrothánek met luxury expert Daniela Olivieri Kraler, who runs a number of highend stores in South Tyrol with her husband and son, to discuss the more beautiful things in life.
Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Franz Kraler
How would you describe your typical customer? Has she changed over the years?
Daniele Olivieri Kraler: Our customers are very diverse in terms of origin, age, and purchase power. That makes it difficult to generalise. However, I have learned that they are defined by stark contrasts. They are both strong and fragile, always a mystery when entering the store for the first time. We win them over by deciphering them immediately. Every customer comes with individual needs and desires. She wishes to be understood. That hasn’t changed. At the same time, we observe that luxury is expressed in a
more polarised context. Some prefer loud, logo-heavy, and colourful products, while others opt for quiet fashion that focuses on quality. Does that mean quiet luxury isn’t new to Franz Kraler? Quiet luxury? We’ve always had that! Loro Piana is a perfect example. We have stocked this and similar brands since our beginnings, embracing materials, textures, and provenance as a selling proposition. The luxury segment hasn’t really changed much. There will always be loud and quiet customers. The challenge lies in finding a way to serve both. Particularly, as there are those who are both – loud in private, yet quiet at work. One of our dearest customers is a politician. She exclusively wears very understated fashion in office, whereas she strives to dress all the more extravagantly in her private life. Is catering for both customer types a challenge during the buying process?
No, not at all. Franz and I are a well-oiled buying team. (laughs) Buying is our ritual, from simple socks to exclusive collections. We’ve been in this together for 40 years, yet I’m still amazed by how we share specific aha moments. We both instantly know what to buy!
FRANZDaniela Olivieri Kraler is the driving force behind five multi-brand stores.
“The more stubborn we are, the more successful we are,” says Alexander Lochner, whose Lochner Top Fashion range wouldn’t look out of place in any given metropolis. So why does the sleek, reducedfeminine look also succeed in Burghausen? Identity!
Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Lochner Top Fashion
Alexander, do you have a certain type of women in mind during the buying process?
Alexander Lochner, owner of Lochner Top Fashion: I have the woman I portray in our magazine in mind. She may seem a little extreme for our location. Yet funnily enough: the more stubborn we are, the more successful we are. Identity is what our customers seek out.
Successfully so. Your customer base reaches beyond Burghausen. Some travel here in groups from as far away as Munich. How come?
The pandemic and Instagram have increased our catchment area. E-commerce obviously helps, too. However, we are discovering that we tend to ship shoes, accesso-
ries, and simpler pieces. Those hoping to find a look visit the store and, in some cases, don’t mind spending three hours.
With an appointment?
No, mostly unannounced. Granted, this can create a certain degree of chaos in the store. These customers often arrive with friends, meaning that we need to serve two or three individuals simultaneously if the store is busy. Yet even such demanding customers have no problem with that.
Price pains?
Our customers don’t have any. What counts is the look, outfits, and individuality. I’m actually attempting to extend the range at the top. The crazy thing is that even contemporary brands are now asking us about our first lines in Parisian showrooms.
Do you have a name for your look?
A new kind of power woman – with a penchant for luxury. Some elements, such as the blazer, which remained a key item for us even in the pandemic, can be characterised, but there is no overarching term that encapsulates the fact that the look, for all its androgyny and reduction, is very feminine and characterised by a new female self-image.
„“IAlexander Lochner buys with confidence; the distinct identity of the product range makes the Burghausen location (almost) irrelevant.
What do women want? Fashion that articulates who they are, be it in society in general, in their individual social environment, or in their career. What a blessing that an increasing number of women are creating fashion for women, avoiding a discrepancy between selfimage and the perception of others. We collected opinions regarding the female shift in fashion.
“To me personally, sexiness has gained a completely changed meaning in today’s fashion. We are most seductive when we are strong and confident.”
Natacha
“Emancipation is about class, culture, elegance, and style. If you’re confident, you don’t need to show yourself naked to prove your beauty.”
Monic a Marando, owner of MMB Consulting
Basic, Art Director Not Shy
The Sportalm collection fully embraces female empowerment, correct?
Ulli Ehrlich, Managing Director Sportalm: Yes, absolutely.
Sportalm is run by me, a woman, and developed by many incredibly great women with plenty of passion. The collection is independent, not part of a corporation seeking to re alise grandiose plans. We love what we do, and we love women!
Sportalm is typically known for its feminine, adorned elements. Femininely adorned elements are often considered an insult, some thing I’ve never really understood. Only a handful of women look more beautiful in androgynous fashion, and we strive to make women even more beautiful. One stands out in Sportalm fashion, which reflects the new image of women, too, as it symbolises strength and self-confidence. Our fashion is as colourful and diverse as life itself. Women can usually remember very well when they wore one of our pieces, and we hear some inspiring stories. That’s what life is all about: creating special moments and memories. Besides, it’s wonderful to embrace being a woman in feminine outfits. Women are amazing, and we want people to see that.
www.sportalm.at
Mrs Schellenberger, in what aspects of the collection is your personal touch evident? Brigitte Schellenberger, founder of Raffaello Rossi: In the fact that the collection never features uncomfortable trousers. I personally try on each prototype and the feel needs to be super soft. That gains us a great deal of fans, as a wide variety of women feel at ease in our trousers.
You work alongside your husband and two sons. How are the dynamics?
I am certainly the more instinct-driven person in our quartet. Whenever tensions arise, I try to consider the issue from different angles. Being a woman, I can relate to our customers very well.
The collection reflects the slogan #empower yourself. Yes, most women manage their lives confidently, and trousers help them feel great and strong. We also encourage female empowerment with fundraising initiatives. The sale of each pair of jeans supports the One Day association, which assists girls and young women who have been victims of violence in Sierra Leone and Kenya. One Day’s message is clear and simple: everyone has the potential to contribute to making the world a better place. www.raffaello-rossi.com
Martina, you describe Ayms sportswear as a fluid gender concept. To what extent are the brand and structures influenced by femininity?
Martina Schmidl, founder of Ayms: I can honestly say that gender has never been an issue for me, as I feel so naturally comfortable in my body as a human being. I knew from the outset that I wanted to create a unisex brand. In collaboration with Head of Product Johannes Hochgreve, our two worlds merge into one collection. My sense of aesthetics and haptics is crucial in this process, as is my perfectionism – more so than my feminine nature. Even our soft materials are implemented in a cool and casual style.
I perceive Ayms as sophisticated sportswear of a new generation. Yes, we strive for a new and modern approach to luxury and hope to spread positivity and ease with our mindset. To this end, we invest a great deal of time in material development, which is as essential as trims and details, such as a sustainable print or our biodegradable care label. This is how we get into a highly productive flow, where shapes and colours seem to emerge of their own accord.
www.join-ayms.com
A cool, timeless, aesthetic: Ayms defines new standards.
“I simply love life and inspirational people with a healthy attitude to life. Gender doesn’t matter to me.”
Martina Schmidl
What started with blouses made of an unusual fabric has blossomed into a complete collection. How has Armargentum developed?
Sophia Moser, founder of Armargentum: I’ve always remained true to my principles. I strive to create something sophisticated, something that lasts, using few yet, excep-
tional resources. We offer truly outstanding blouses, trousers, and dresses. We are now introducing a thicker, impregnated version of our fabric, which we process into padded, completely chemical-free jackets. We are also delving deeper into leisurewear and sweats – always feminine, never overloaded. What actually prompted you to launch Armargentum?
The disposable nature of fashion disturbs me. I love nature, I love animals, I love fashion – they shouldn’t be mutually exclusive. Our pieces are gentle on the skin, biodegradable, contain no materials of animal origin, are often worn for many years, and have no expiry date. I set out to create something that meets my aesthetic standards, does not harm the environment, and contributes to a change for the better.
Is it possible to reconcile timelessness with retailers’ appetite for new ideas?
Yes, as we are always innovative while remaining true to ourselves. We rely on close contact with customers, maintain dialogue throughout the season, and are committed to effective merchandise management. We nurture our retail network, grow organically, and are entering new markets such as Spain. In Italy, we are the first non-Italian brand to be represented in all Four Seasons hotels.
How does Armargentum complement modern women?
It complements them excellently, as the brand ensures you’re always well dressed. Be it fancy or casual, our hand-smocked blouses can even be worn with jeans and sneakers. Everything is easy to wash and iron, we avoid extreme colours, and inspire a like-minded community of women who share our values.
Strong values, an unmistakable design language, and outstanding quality: Armargentum.
Wellbeing for the body, sustainability for the environment: Soulwear by Mey.
The collection is designed by women for women. Which impact does that have?
Claudia Wigge, Head of Design Soulwear by Mey: We tested extensively and listened to what is truly important to women. Soulwear by Mey emphasises the universal joy of movement with comfort, a flattering feel, and great wearing comfort. We exclusively rely on sustainable materials, as we are serious about promoting wellbeing.
How does that manifest itself?
Nothing constricts the wearer. The leggings made of recycled polyester and modal are super soft; the seams create beautiful silhouettes. The sporty modal racerback is cut extra high and features hem cuffs to prevent slips during yoga sessions. Layering with mesh shorts and mesh tops also flatters women who wish to conceal their curves a little, while cosy sweat pieces offer the ideal trouser shape for everyone. We aim to provide the perfect style for every woman. Our external appearance reflects our inner self, which is why it’s so important to find the right clothes for yourself. Hence, Soulwear by Mey represents true empowerment for women who genuinely want to feel at ease doing sports, as well as in their leisure time. www.mey.com
“We would like to see the female shift megatrend driven by socio-cultural value change rather than, as until now, by economic interests. Women will not hesitate to leave if they don’t feel appreciated. They simply won’t allow anyone to dictate their individuality and value. Accordingly, they wear whatever they want. Now we need to reflect this self-image in our social attitude.”
Miri am Hoffmann and Hye Won Weidekamp, Heydekamp partners
“Clothing is part of my vocabulary.”
Nadine Tosun, influencer and owner of Nadine Tosun Label
Christiane, is it fair to say that Yippie Hippie is a collection that understands women?
Christiane Braun Prettin, Managing Director Yippie Hippie: Absolutely, though we can’t include all varieties of womanhood. We focus on fashion-oriented women who are happy to occasionally disregard conventions, simply to have some fun. You run the business alongside Maja Eger. How does the female component shape your leadership?
Maja takes care of the numbers, and I’m in charge of the creative process. We constitute the perfect team. Our female strength lies in listening attentively to our partners. Respectful interaction is of utmost importance to us. When communicating with our partners, we are as flexible as possible without deviating from our line. That’s definitely one of the secrets of Yippie Hippie’s success.
You love to experiment. Which innovations does the collection feature?
Apart from our colourful, expressive prints, we are always on the lookout for new, soft qualities that evoke a must-have effect. It is precisely this combination of design and wearing comfort that our customers appreciate so much!
www.yippiehippie.de
Carmen Kroll, aka Carmushka, is one of Germany’s top creators. Her brand Oh April is destined to move from being a D2C phenomenon to a wholesale fixture. Support comes from B2B-experienced CEO Alina Zachries, as well as sales agency Ben and.
OH APRIL
Flexible in business, uncompromising in quality: Christiane Braun Prettin.
Why do D2C brands such as Oh April still need stationary retailers at some point?
Carmen Kroll, founder of Oh April: It’s a classic win-win situation. Stationary retailers offer us an opportunity to present our brand in a physical environment, reaching a target group that may not shop online. That contributes to Oh April’s brand awareness, the customers gain trust in the brand through the retailers.
Why do retailers need you?
Alina Zachries, CEO Oh April: A brand that brings an existing community to the table – and is capable of activating it – is an unbeatable proposition in times of declining customer frequency. We possess a wealth of knowledge, for example about our best-selling products. This allows us to support the buying and merchandise planning departments with concrete figures.
Carmen Kroll: We have deliberately opted for a selective approach. Oh April shouldn’t be available everywhere. This creates exclusivity for retailers and a chance to distinguish ourselves.
“It’s so rewarding to see today’s women dressing for their own pleasure. These women are living their lives. They have made their experiences and mistakes while living and loving. You don’t force such personality into a tight, sexy outfit, you embrace it with casual elegance.”
Yasemin Demirci, owner of The Store
by Schneeweiss
“Save the Duck’s swimwear is not about us wanting to be a total look collection, I personally don’t believe in those concepts at all. We want to be a landmark and items like bikinis and swimsuits can do that.”
Nicolas Barghi, Save the DuckDušan Bazar Deluxe Penn & Ink N.Y Stetson JNBY Nicole Pietag Chanel Plan C Mou Kashette Mey Soulwear
Is the new gender fluidity leading Hugo Boss out of the testosterone corner? At least Kristina Szász and Nadia Kokni are convinced that is the case in an interview with style in progress.
The future is female… too often this statement is misused as a mere slogan. Does it apply to the fashion industry, after all?
Kristina Szász, Senior Vice President Boss Womenswear: Nadia and I are good examples of this thesis, together with the many other great female leaders we have at the company. But maybe it’s even a bit outdated to say: “The future is female.” Because from our point of view, the future must be inclusive in a diverse social environment. It must take into account all different cultures, opinions, and perspectives. And in this context, the female perspective is certainly of great importance.
But I completely agree with you that, especially in the last decade, the presence of women in leadership positions has increased significantly in all areas of the business and at all levels. And, of course, there is a change or further development in terms of content as well.
Here at Hugo Boss, the womenswear departments are run entirely by women, in design or product development, for example. The female perspective is also represented in customer communications. This is even more exciting given Boss has been such a masculine brand for decades. When
you’re a woman developing a collection for women, when you understand your customers from the inside out, it means a different approach.
Women in fashion have long been either decoration or consumers. I suspect especially the second won't change all that much.
Nadia Kokni, Senior Vice President Global Marketing: Women remain the most important target group in fashion. Not only because of their own significantly increased purchasing power, but also because they make the majority of consumption decisions – but now with a new self-confidence, which is closely linked to the changes in their social role. The change and flexibilization of the working world have made an important contribution to the presence and visibility of women within the industry. Many companies, also Hugo Boss, are pushing this quite deliberately in order to no longer demand an either-or from women, but to make it possible to combine children and a career, for those who want this. But we should not forget that this path first had to be cleared. It wasn’t given to women as a gift. If there is such a thing as female solidarity today, which is actually affirmative and empowering in a completely new understanding of solidarity, then this is not least the merit of women who have shaped and molded the fashion industry under more difficult conditions. It was and is important to have such role models.
Kristina Szász: Long-held target group definitions such as age, status, or origin have largely lost their significance. Today, trends are being questioned by women. Or more precisely: women no longer adapt to trends; they adapt trends to their individual personalities. That’s crucial for us at Boss when we think about contemporary women’s fashion, which must be able to deliver a lot beyond the look – for example, seamless dress up or dress down without much effort. Because, not least, in the new world of work described above, the wearing occasions change seamlessly. Business look revisited?
Kristina Szász: Fashion should always reflect the lives of those who wear it. So, we try to create fashion for women who are in the middle of life in a very diverse way.
Nadia Kokni: “Be your own Boss” is, after all, a carefully chosen key message and brand statement. It not only describes the woman we want to inspire, but, above all, how we, as a brand, approach her. Today, this relationship is no longer a one-way street, but a constant interaction. We don’t want to give directives; we want to inspire.
Given this, is beauty still a relevant value or asset in fashion?
Nadia Kokni: Of course, under different conditions. Today’s understanding of female beauty is increasingly self-determined. It’s about self-esteem, about the beauty of being a woman, not external confirmation. This is very liberating, and it’s very exciting to advance this within a brand like Boss. Genderless is currently a massive topic… socio-politically and thus almost immanently also in fashion. An exciting challenge for Boss Womenswear?
Kristina Szász: Oh yes, on very different levels. Genderless or genderfluid are socio-politically very relevant for young target groups, for the Millennials and Gen Z. For us, it’s a great way to merge this trend with the heritage of the brand. And it works so perfectly because there is a female perspective within Boss today, in the look as well as in the direction of the company itself. Genderless for us doesn’t mean that women can wear men’s garments. That’s not new either. Rather, we see it as an interaction. This is particularly evident in the suit, and customers are thrilled.
The blazer, sports jacket, and suit represent distinction, fashion, and desire. They express something a sweater cannot. Across all segments, from stealth wealth to streetwear, a generation that could exist happily without ready-to-wear is celebrating just that. Now that’s what we call a comeback!
Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek, Martina Müllner.
Photos: Brands. Illustrations: Hannes Hemetsberger
“THE BLAZER FORMS THE LINCHPIN OF OUR COLLECTIONS. We consider it THE must-have and an indispensable part of every feminine look, not only when combined with a trouser suit or costume, but also in combination with feminine dresses, skirts, or jeans. Each wearer interprets the blazer differently, with a great deal of creativity. We love such subtlety!” Luciana Provezza and Gea Fanelli, Designers Skills & Genes
It Shows Character
“THE BLAZER BOOM persists for good reason. It conveys sophistication and elegance. A carefully chosen jacket has the power to add character to every outfit. A blazer that flatters the body lends both femininity and coolness.” Pino Lerario, Creative Director Tagliatore 0205 and Tagliatore
“IS THERE EVEN A MORE IMMORTAL GARMENT? Besides that brief phase during the pandemic, the blazer has never wavered, and even then, we believed in the product and continued to promote it despite the home office trend. The blazer is elementary to us, we never stop developing it further. Grandpa styles are currently the most popular. And don’t think for one second that oversized is easy – that’s the pinnacle of ready-to-wear!”
Gennaro Dargenio, Owner Circolo 1901
“GIVEN OUR DNA, tailoring is always an important topic for us. At the moment, though, it’s particularly fun due to the broader trend itself.”
Frank Wojczewski, Head of Design Windsor Women
“THE BLAZER IS NO LONGER EXCLUSIVELY WORN in a formal and business-like manner – it represents individuality, suiting every style and occasion. How best to combine it? With a smile.”
Diletta Paoloni, Designer Manuel Ritz
"THE BLAZER IS SYNONYMOUS WITH AN UNERRING ELEGANCE. It is now more streamlined, but inside it still posesses a discreet, soft construction. It's all about an effortless look created by fine materials, perfect fit and details. Then you can create all kinds of looks - from informal casual outfits to the styling for a grand entrance."
Alessandro Fasolo, CEO Cruna
“WE FIRMLY BELIEVE IN THE ALLURE OF A GARMENT that conveys more than mere formal reality. At the end of the day, it’s all about a distinct association and a dream fulfilled by a special piece of clothing.”
“WE ARE CURRENTLY EXPERIENCING A COMEBACK OF THE SPORTS JACKET within the male wardrobe, albeit not job-related, but in leisure time. We combine this new zest with casual, athletic cuts and materials, for example denim or shirt jackets.”
Luca Orsatti, CEO A.T.P.CO
Tibi, the New York cult brand created by Amy Smilovic, has streamlined its retail presence quite significantly. Instead of maintaining a presence in hundreds of stores, the label founder now relies on strong relationships within her community. Her Instagram styling classes are legendary, as are the book clubs for her styling manual The Creative Pragmatist. The latter transform visits to retailers into gatherings of likeminded individuals. Only recently, Smilovic stopped by Yasemin Demirci’s The Store by Schneeweiss in Vienna. style in progress met both women for a chat.
The brand is celebrating its 27th anniversary, yet it remains cool and fresh. How do you maintain an established brand’s relevance and modernity?
Amy Smilovic: I believe that, by continually creating everything we love, each year brings something unique. My desire to explore and learn new things is evident in everything we do. The brand has remained independent for all these years, with no external investors to dictate our decisions. This has allowed us to take risks and make mistakes, but with the confidence that any issues can be resolved. After all, we’re talking about clothing, not health.
It’s quite remarkable how deeply the brand is associated with its customers. It
was a community project right from the beginning.
Amy Smilovic: Yes, as we’ve been very clear about what we’re putting out there. I believe if you have a similar mentality – are comfortable, curious, and interested in what’s contemporary while appreciating the past – you’ll sense that from what you read and see of our products. Otherwise, you won’t be able to relate to it over time. I think the way I sustain this conversation is by being very honest and true to who we are. It’s an ongoing dialogue, quite pleasant and effortless to keep up with people because the discussion isn’t burdensome. You know, individuals are surprised by how much I respond to them. Yet when you have something truly substantial to say in response to something that someone has communicated to you, you don’t mind responding. It becomes like a conversation with someone you’ve never met before, but you are keen to hear their perspective. Something that they’ve done, or their reading preferences, that I’m very interested in discussing.
Do you believe that Tibi being created by and for women is a contributing factor?
Amy Smilovic: No, because an increasing number of men have told me that they truly relate to the fundamentals as well. However, I find it beneficial as I mainly sell to women. I am able to provide more personal experience on how I know the product will be worn. I can convey how it will make you feel while on vacation or boarding the subway. I understand what it’s like to have dual responsibilities of taking care of two children yet still desiring to be stylish. I must admit, however,
that my husband was also taking care of two children, and he wanted to look trendy too. Do you have a specific term that describes your fashion style? What do you refer to it as?
Amy Smilovic: I coined creative pragmatist because I needed a term that conveyed depth. In fashion, designers are often asked to choose a specific style: contemporary or sexy, edgy or bohemian, minimalist or modernist. But I couldn’t pick just one. I’m modern, minimal, somewhat feminine, and yet my style isn’t entirely bohemian. Store buyers would tell me to come back when I figured out who I was, which was incredibly frustrating. I had to focus on a specific adjective in order to create a line that stores could understand. That’s when I gave it a name. Creative pragmatist implies both creativity and practicality.
Creative Pragmatist is also the title of your book which has been a fantastic success. What makes it such a great fit for our time?
Amy Smilovic: Many women don’t know their own style. Covid has allowed me to get onto Instagram and to explain my style in IG stories. Stories have a beginning, a middle, and an end. You are forced to be coherent and clear. So, I began to write about all the times that Traci and I design. When laying this out, I started to see that it was not just a pattern being created but real explanations for our work.
I really wanted it to be like a cookbook, a guide. When you cook something, you don’t always follow the recipe. The only thing that matters is that it tastes good. If it doesn’t, then the recipe becomes very important. You look it up and realise: “Oh, that’s why it tastes different.” I always advise people not to send me a DM asking if something is wrong. Instead, send me a DM explaining that you feel something is wrong and you need help understanding why. If you ask me if something is right or wrong without providing your perspective, I won’t be able to give you a clear answer because it is subjective. How significant are retailers like Yasemine for your brand, and the connection they establish between you and your customers? To be frank, considering your strong Instagram presence, which would enable you to operate independently, what makes you remain reliant on a retailer?
Amy Smilovic: One of the most crucial aspects is that individuals perceive the brand as being human. However, I can only express my humanity to a limited extent when communicating through Instagram. Therefore, it’s highly significant to me that individuals have the opportunity to engage with places where they can directly interact with a person, rather than just communicating with a machine. Many people have conveyed to me that there’s a great deal of emphasis on pursuing meaningful experiences. Social media, for a period, revolved around experiences,
didn’t it? People were no longer interested in acquiring possessions; they were seeking experiences. I believe that, for quite some time, the world has focused heavily on things happening to you, on having experiences. Carried over to the relationship between brand and customer, it's clear why we need retailers like Yasemine..
Yasemine Demirci: Experiencing something real, as opposed to it merely consuming it.
Amy Smilovic:What moves me most right now is that the art of holding a conversation is making such a comeback - such conversations that can only exist in real life. Having conversations with individuals who hold differing opinions can be invigorating and allow for fresh perspectives. Rather than being apprehensive, we should actively seek out these experiences. Over time, we may engage in productive discussions about exploring new textures, ideas, or perhaps our own bodies. And as a result, our discussions about style can evolve into broader topics of life, such as making new friends or examining a new point of view. This is why spaces like Schneeweiss, where visitors can try on clothing, hang out, and engage in conversations, are tremendously valuable.
This means that you have a very close relationship with your retailers.
Amy Smilovic: Yes. Funnily enough, I recently found some old business plans, where we talked about how many stores should stock us within a certain mile radius. That’s
so outdated. We have one store in Vienna, one in Milan. It’s funny, because I had a store owner in Rome tell me that I should hire an Italian showroom to be able to supply tons of stores in Italy. But I don’t want to. I want to maintain an overview.
Yasemine Demirci: Yes, and it is no longer a question of whether our customers are right for your brand. It’s about a shared vibe.
Amy Smilovic: I need to know that they are good people who want to learn more about the brand and visit a store for that purpose. Yasemine will take great care of you, and you will love her.
Is it important to you that your brand interacts with other brands in a multi-brand store like Schneeweiss?
Amy Smilovic: Yes, we don’t wear Tibi from head to toe all the time. We would get tired of it, and I love a mix of things. Take our store employees in New York as an example. It would be impossible for them to show their full personality if they only wore Tibi. Does this mean that stores need to stop collecting brands? It must be impossible to establish such a close relationship as Tibi and The Store by Schneeweiss enjoy with 120 labels.
Yasmine Demirci: Yes! I stocked more brands in the past, but it was sometimes difficult to manage all the little brands, to have the budget for it. It was hard to even picture the store back then. You need to focus on a specific line. I’m looking for a specific vibe, a special feeling. If you stock fewer brands, you can transfer this feeling more easily to the customer. And to be honest, it’s also the only way to reduce the volume of clothes across the globe. It all goes hand-in-hand.
I love this so much because it’s really about sharing values and not about collecting brands. Shared values should be the next mega-trend in buying. And let’s be perfectly clear: it’s impossible to share the values of 100 brands.
Amy Smilovic: If you try to, it’s fake. If you had 100 children, you could never love all 100 children the same.
Listed at more than 300 retailers worldwide before the pandemic, Tibi has limited itself to a select few stores with which the label founder and her team enjoy a close personal relationship. “My aim is to supply a number of retailers that still allows me to remember their children’s names, and who I’m convinced will provide excellent advice for my customers. That’s what counts.”
“I feel like dressing up again, and I’m looking forward to high heels and dresses. We have also felt the need in the market and have focused heavily on dresses for the summer, for example, midsummer, colorful poplin dresses. We also expanded our tech-velour quality, for a mix of casual and streetwear that still has the typical Juvia look and feel.”
Judith Dommermuth, Founder Juvia
A new femininity that reflects what women expect from brands today: to be taken seriously, not to be masqueraded, to be an expression of new strength. But above all: Design that outlasts trends.
Skill & Genes. The new ready-towear label of the Golden Season Fashion Industry group, which also includes AT.P.CO and After Label, was founded in Milan in 2022. The mission of the womenswear brand is to interpret classic elements differently with innovative fits. Skills & Genes collections are characterized by clean, simple lines and avoid unnecessary frills. This creates this timeless yet modern aesthetic, typical of the Milano Style. The focus is on the blazer as an iconic garment that adapts to the circumstances and gives the wearer a relaxed elegance. skillsandgenes.com, @skillsandgenes
Christiane Strobel. Durable, transparent and sustainable - that are the ambitions around which Christiane Strobel designs her collection. She says, “I want to take responsibility for what I send out into the world and drive positive change in fashion.” With a timeless modern aesthetic, she clearly distances herself from fast fashion. The collection is made with high standards for social equality, fair working conditions and wages in Marrakech, partially by women with physical disabilities. Their integration into social life and especially into the working world is clearly more difficult, especially in a country like Morocco - empowerment in both senses. www.christianestrobel.com
Whispr. The Italian knitwear label from Florence was founded by a group of women who felt the need for change after years in the fashion and communications industry. As a B-Corp company, the brand is actively committed to empowering women and girls in the workplace and fighting gender discrimination with sustainable slow fashion. For this reason, every Whispr model contains a message and is made by so-called pink ateliers. The slogans not only empower wearers, but also the workers who design and make the product. www.whispr2030.com, @whispr2030
Galeria. This is the mix for a perfect summer: Galeria was founded in 2021 by Renata Leitao Apladas, a Brazilian living in Greece. After years of working in both industry and commerce, and her last job as a visual merchandiser, she decided to let her creativity run wild with a project of her own. Her simple resort collections combine the passion and love of life of both her cultures - the lively Greek islands and her vibrant hometown São Paulo. In addition to a swimwear capsule, there are blouses, pants and dresses with hip patterns and colors. All pieces are produced in Greece. www.heydekamp-fashion.de, www.galeria.fr
Ahlvar Gallery. Redefining timeless clothing is the mission of swedish designer and owner of Ahlvar Gallery, Frida Ahlvarsson. Since 2013, she has built a following especially around her blouses and dresses. The recipe: flowing styles suitable for everyday wear with classic elements. "My passion is to create clothes that make everyday life easier for women, so they can spend their time with more important things than what to wear in the morning. The greatest compliment is when a customer says, 'I wear this piece every day; what other colors is this available in?' Then I know I‘ve succeeded," says Ahlvarsson. www.heydekamp-fashion.de, www.ahlvar.com
Aleksandra Viktor. The centerpiece is the iconic handmade Chapan coat, which Polish designer Aleksandra Jagdfeld always reinterprets. All chapans are made in Europe, the precious fabric is woven in Uzbekistan from ikat silk and cotton yarns dyed in Indonesia. In addition to coats, the designer also makes pillows from this unique material. Aleksandra Viktor is distributed through showrooms in New York and Paris and is represented at leading e-tailers or in Germany at Lodenfrey Munich. Purchase prices ranges from 150 Euros for pillows to 1,600 Euros for velvet coats. www.aleksandraviktor.com, @aleksandraviktor_
Sea Me Happy. Founded in 2016 by mother-daughter duo Mercedes Schwital and Noémie Moereels in Antwerp, the small batik label has turned into a full-fledged collection with high-quality pieces in vibrant colors made from natural materials. Travel and a sense of freedom are at the heart of the aesthetic. Dresses, blouses and jackets with relaxed fits are one-size, while lightweight pants and skirts range from size zero to three. Around 80 percent of the collection is handmade in Belgium, all tie-dye pieces even still in the kitchen of label founder Mercedes. The message: Sea Me Happy wants to encourage people to do more of what they really love.
www.shangri-land.de, www.seamehappy.be
Odile. The patterns of Portuguese azulejos and the story of her globetrotting grandmother Odile serve as inspiration for Eva Armand. In her native Portugal, she produces extraordinary dresses, blouses and tops, made from GOTS-certified materials throughout. That Odile is a resort collection is impossible to miss. Each piece breathes summer in its colorful prints, with cutouts or ruffles, natural materials are a matter of course. The sustainable brand is distributed in Germany by Rosenthal agency and has already won over its first reference customers such as Lodenfrey and Reyer. www.odile-collective.com
Like a Bee. Freshly founded, already a bestseller. The new brand at AS Agency Düsseldorf comes with a clear message: commercial price ranges for 100 percent made in Italy and the opportunity for retailers to quickly and successfully refresh their assortment with trendy pieces in real corner price ranges. Delivery takes place two months after the order is received, and new collections can be ordered from Like a Bee eight times a year. Sizes range from XS to XL, prices range from 29 Euros for T-shirts to 129 Euros for jackets. At the heart of the collection are blouses for 59 to 79 Euros and dresses from 79 to 119 Euros. @likeabee_official
“A spectacularly beautiful blouse that still fits into the life of a modern woman: wear it, wash it, just iron it, put it back on. No woman needs complicated pieces anymore.”
Sophia Moser, ArmargentumAvant Toi Wallmann Armargentum Lena Hoschek Elisabetta Franchi Oh April Silk 95 Quite Luxury TRVL DRSS Robert Friedman
“Fashion is also to be a moment of lightness that allows you to play, transform and step out of yourself. You can be anything also fetish, why not?”
Silvia Curzi, Creative Director Vic MatiéStine Goya Vic Matie
She’s all about the unexpected: Carolina Castiglioni.
Plan C is Italian womenswear of a new generation, in the best sense of the phrase. Carolina Castiglioni, daughter of the founders of Marni, pursues her own unique aesthetic.
Text: Nicoletta Schaper: Photos: Plan C
Just fashion? More like a concept: The installation created for the last Salone Mobile in Milan, which will, after stopovers in Tokyo and New York, be on display at Andreas Murkudis in Berlin.
Carolina, what do you think makes Plan C so special?
Carolina Castiglioni, founder of Plan C: The highly personal element – Plan C truly reflects what I like. It all starts with the materials: I enjoy working in geometric shapes, which take on very different characteristics depending on the fabric. And I adore colours, especially unusual combinations and contrasts that you wouldn’t necessarily expect.
Plan C also has something playful about it. Yes, absolutely. At the last Salone Mobile in Milan, I showcased an installation that will also be on display at Andreas Murkudis in Berlin this September. It features three large figurines inspired by my children, as well as hand-knotted carpets from Morocco that echo the motifs and colours of my collection. I operate conceptually and am not limited to fashion; I believe fashion, design, and art converge organically.
I interpret your brand as a departure from the cliché of sexy Italian womenswear. A deliberate statement?
Yes, but I don’t think in such categories. A woman expresses her eroticism through her personality, not through a tight dress.
Is this a question of emancipation to you?
Frankly, I have never perceived men as more powerful than women. Maybe that’s why I don’t really feel the need to deliberately emphasise the strength of women. That comes naturally. Do you feel fortunate or handicapped by the fact that your parents run a strong brand like Marni?
Definitely fortunate! I worked for Marni for 13 years in various capacities, most recently as a creative director for special projects, such as the Marni installation for the 20th anniversary of Salone Mobile. I learned how to implement concepts. Above all, my parents taught me not to worry too much about other people’s opinions, but to rely on my instincts and stay true to myself.
www.plan-c.com
Italian women’s fashion is every man’s dream: extroverted and stylish, from sexy to provocative. Hang on, is this image, manifested by brands such as Versace and Dolce & Gabbana, still accurate? We dare to allude to a new Italy. However, we now see collections emerge that don’t clamour for the big wow effect, yet are still worthy of a wow. They are often created by women for women, with an attentive eye on the world beyond Italy – and, above all, for what women want.
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Brands
A blend of Italian DNA and influences from all over the globe: Alysi.
“Alysi represents how I perceive myself.”
Valentina Celata, Head of Design Alysi
“I don’t worry about what men think about my fashion, as I only have women in mind,” says head designer Valentina Celata. Her style approach for Alysi is more sophisticated than loud, featuring a blend of femininity and masculine elements, from material choice to cut. “When wearing Alysi, I want to feel empowered when looking in the mirror, with a look that gives me confidence for the entirety of the day.”
Alysi represents the next generation of Italian womenswear. “Our DNA lies in our special understanding of design and craftsmanship. Yet we reconcile this heritage with influences from all over the world, which we collect during our many journeys. The result is new and original; it reveals a contemporary take on fashion for confident women.” www.alysi.com
The collection is classic, yet it features a hint of coolness. How much of your personality goes into it?
Beatrice Mason, Head of Design Beatrice.b: A great deal. I’ve always been fascinated by simplicity that retains a certain level of originality. I have a passion for slightly unusual details that, when combined with classic elements, make Beatrice.b so unique.
What kind of a wardrobe does a modern, empowered woman need?
A confident woman needs relaxed fashion featuring essentials that, instead of being trendy, focus on the fundamentals. To me, it’s all about creating womenswear based on a new and non-superficial understanding of luxury, which is reflected in the materials and quality.
Where do you perceive the greatest change in womenswear right now?
The comeback of tailoring. It may sound like a step back, but I think of it as a return to relevant minimalism instead of overly loud or very revealing looks. I don’t believe women need to be superficially sexy to express their femininity.
www.beatriceb.com
What is Pinko’s USP?
Caterina Negra, Creative Director Pinko: Feminine glamour combined with attention to trends and high-end quality. It’s fashion for independent women who enjoy the spotlight. Our clothes are meant to be cool and wearable.
How is a contemporary collection created, and how important is Italian heritage?
Our collections are the result of constant dialogue with our end consumers. We observe and analyse, combining the feedback with our unique vision. I was raised in this company. My vision of fashion is deeply rooted in the Pinko world. This means that a great deal of myself is injected in everything I design.
Does sexy and extravagant womenswear represent a step backwards or an expression of new self-determination?
I believe that women crave the freedom to express themselves, be it sexy, eccentric, or minimalist. They are in charge of their lives and style. They enjoy the freedom to remain true to themselves.
www.pinko.com
“I hate over-designed clothes,” says Dušan Paunovic. “My fashion is timeless, suited to every type of woman and figure.” His collection thrives on a style idiom that is reduced to essentials, fully accentuating exquisite materials such as silk and cashmere. Coats that drape over the body are a particularly striking feature of the collection. “How do I define New Italy? Womenswear that forgoes everything that is exaggerated and flashy, instead more in keeping with how women should be perceived today: not as icons, but as human beings with a confident approach to life.” www.dusan.info
Elisabetta
What type of woman wears your fashion?
Elisabetta Franchi, founder and owner of Elisabetta Franchi: She is a sensual woman, always elegant and never vulgar. I have fought for a woman’s right not to be ashamed of her femininity since the beginning. While they used to be forced to dress like men in order to be credible and assertive, the situation is different now. Finally, women no longer feel uncomfortable wearing a pretty blouse, skirt, and high heels, knowing they are strong and no longer need to hide their charm and sex appeal. In other words, sex appeal is an expression of new feminine strength.
My woman is the epitome of femininity and sensuality, but she is also fierce, knows what she wants, and is capable of taking on different roles in life. What’s a look that always works? The little black dress, as a stalwart ally for every occasion. www.elisabetta-franchi.com
Bag brand La Milanesa is rekindling a successful partnership by returning to the Modeist sales agency. The ultimate hype in Italy, the label also has ambitious plans for the DACH region.
Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: La Milanesa
Instantly recognisable: La Milanesa, with its imaginative crochet bags, has created an eye-catcher that enjoys international success. The fact that the brand is run as a social business makes it all the more charming. Designer Cinzia Macchi’s dream business has achieved what others dream of: capturing the attention of discerning buyers and fashion enthusiasts. After a short hiatus, La Milanesa has returned to the Modeist sales agency. “We may only communicate in gestures, but we are definitely on the same wavelength,” Marion Hoferer laughs. She and her son Timothy are responsible for sales in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. “We hold a protective hand over Cinzia, who is an exceptional creative,” Marion Hoferer adds. “If I’m perfectly honest, I missed the two of them,” Macchi smiles.
So, what’s new? The essence of the brand remains constant, while success amplifies the social impact. The collection features a new variety, and it is fitting that the pre-collection for spring/summer 2024 was created around the theme of cocktails. Macchi: “After all, going for an aperitivo in Italy means putting everyday life on pause, deliberately savouring a private moment. I envision my new col-
lection with this in mind: take a breath, find your centre, and treat yourself.” Creativity is part of the brand strategy. “We love that the collection genuinely can’t be pigeonholed; that’s why so many customers view it as the perfect tool. Anyone looking for an eye-catcher should look no further than La Milanesa,” says Timothy Hoferer with conviction. www.lamilanesa.it
Uashmama (pronounced: WashMama) specialises in washable paper bags and accessories made in Tuscany. Emanuela Sarti founded the company in 1994 and has established a global presence in partnership with her family. Giulia Marconi, one of the founder’s four daughters and Head of Global Sales & Marketing, spoke to style in progress about paper love, family, and girl power. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Uashmama
Your mother Emanuela serves as inspiration for your collections, and mama is even featured in your brand name. Tell us more about the beginnings.
Giulia Marconi, Head of Global Sales & Marketing Uashmama: This company represents my mother’s lifelong dream. She has always been eager to share our turbulent family life of six with the outside world. 1994, when Gaia, the fourth and youngest of us sisters, turned five, was the turning point. She wanted to completely reinvent herself and opened the first store in Montecatini Alto, featuring interiors to her own particular taste. Everything was highly curated and exclusively made in Italy: from tableware to fabrics, from lamps to candles. It was called an emporio at the time – but it had plenty of style, just like our home. Success came quickly, so we opened a second store in Lucca.
So, how did Uashmama come about?
The store in Lucca allowed us to address a more international clientele. My mother desired a new, more sustainable product, so she asked my father to design something made of paper. Il Marconi (as we four daughters call him) has a footwear background and is immensely skilled. Using our patented material Aggo, he created the foundation for our collection. It is a washable paper that can be processed like leather. That’s how we developed our bestseller: a breadbasket called Paper Bag. The rest is history.
Your father is the creative mastermind. What role does your mother play? How do they complement each other?
Il Marconi – with his extensive experience in the leather and shoe industries, his love for the material itself, and his Italian craftsmanship – acts as our Head of Design & Production. However, my mother has the final say in all matters. They are a cohesive team and share the vision of bringing I talianità, the way experience and feel it as a family in the form of conviviality, togetherness and excellent food, to the world.
Your father is heavily outnumbered now that you daughters have joined the company. How much does your young, female vision influence the business?
Even without his daughters, he would still be outnumbered, as 90 percent of our employees are women. My father has always trusted in women and their spirit. How could he not, with five of them at home? (laughs) Home and fashion are predominantly female segments, so it makes sense to involve as many women as possible in all processes. We know best what women desire. As for me and my sisters: we are different, but we complement each other marvellously. We have, of course, influenced the business. Examples include internationalisation, especially towards the US, as well as implementing e-commerce and social media. Yet here, too, mama has the final say. She knows what’s best for us.
jewelry for themselves; it doesn’t have to please
Cynthia Vilchez Castiglioni, Founder AliitaMaria Black Astrid & Miyu Cajoy Sezane Pernille Corydon Seenberg Maman et Sophie Sweet Lime Juice Sebago Kraemer
Aliita is jewellery that primarily appeals to women. Does this breach the unwritten law that men buy jewellery for women, and it must therefore appeal to men first?
Cynthia Vilchez Castiglioni, Aliita founder: Yes, that hits the nail on the head. This is jewellery you buy for yourself, so it doesn’t need to appeal to anyone else. My collections are defined by different themes. The necklaces and rings feature toadstools, baskets, tennis rackets, or a woman in a swimming belt. Every woman buys pieces that have a personal significance for them. How much of you is channelled into Aliita?
A great deal! I love working with colours, which reflects my Venezuelan heritage. There, bright colours are an integral part of everyday life. In general, I have a great interest in matters of everyday life, which is why I enjoy incorporating common items into my jewellery. Moreover, Aliita is a tribute to Italian craftsmanship, hence the name is an anagram of Italia. Each piece is made of gold and hand-painted in Tuscany, undergoing a multitude of small steps that are not apparent at first glance.
You are the daughter-in-law of the Marni founders and sister-in-law of Plan C creator Carolina Castiglioni. To what extent does that influence you?
I draw inspiration from how focused and conceptual my mother-in-law Consuelo Castiglioni and Carolina
work. We share a flair for unconventional aesthetics and playful design. As someone who is family oriented, I enjoy that our studios are in the same building in Milan, yet we work independently of each other. Your jewellery can be perceived as fashion, and women’s fashion in particular is undergoing a transformation. Can you put it into words?
I sense a growing appreciation of new depth. Women are no longer merely interested in beautiful clothes, but they want to see and understand the story behind them. That suits me very well, and it further strengthens the bond between the brand and its customers. www.aliita.com
“MY
The La Caserne in its current form was developed as a joint project by French group Impala and concept store L’Exception. The project was launched on the initiative of Alexandra Cordebard, mayor of the 10th arrondissement of Paris, who authorised the site of the former fire station to be transformed into an innovation hub for sustainable fashion concepts. A high-profile committee decides who is allowed to move in.
Retail visionary Susanne Tide-Frater used these three words to describe her vision of the store of the future during an interview with style in progress three years ago. She accurately summed up the customers’ desire to design a store, and the personal experience in it, individually. This was not a mere vision. Classic wh-questions about how a store should be conceptualised to meet the needs of the discerning experience shopper often culminate painfully in romantically transfigured emotional dream journeys towards a prototype customer – in plush carpets, futons, and an ambience resembling best-friend flair. This makes the disruption promised by these edgy, polarising, bold, and loud store concepts from all over the world even more invigorating. It is impossible to label the demands and expectations that transform a store into more than a point of service, but rather a place of inspiration. The sincere desire for values and services has long been on par with the genuine experience itself. Complex multi-channel concepts, creative think tanks, and, above all, exceedingly brave, mostly female protagonists illustrate how much ingenuity is required to respond to Generation Why customers, who quite justifiably scrutinise everything and everyone for reasons why.
Text: Isabel Faiss, Martina Müllner
L’Exception regards itself as an accelerator for the young creative scene, bridging the gap to the top genre. Luxury designer brands and established brands are on par with local brands.
Photos: L’Exception, Chaix & Morel, Vincent Fillon Name dropping à la carte. Such is the list of curators and companies involved in transforming the former 19th century Château-Landon fire station, located in the heart of Paris’ 10th arrondissement, into one of the hottest sustainability hubs on the scene today. Alexandre Capelli, Environmental Deputy Director of LVMH Group, and Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability Officer at Kering, are members of the high-profile La Caserne committee alongside many notable representatives of the Paris fashion industry. The area was developed in record time with the support of partners including Fédération de la Haute Couture, Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin, Paris Good Fashion, and the city council. The concept store L’Exception moved into the historic premises of La Caserne and is now deeply embedded in a vibrant environment of bars, restaurants, studios, co working spaces, and boutiques. Owner Regis Pennel strives to offer his customers the ultimate experience of networking, sustainability, culture, and entertainment. An eclectic mix that L’Exception has successfully embraced for years. Not without reason is La Caserne currently considered Europe’s foremost start-up incubator for sustainable high-end fashion –something to which Pennel contributes significantly.
A store with star appeal. Following her own lead, stylist Hilary Tsui combined what she believed her customers enjoy most: An eclectic blend of hospitality, networking, experience, and fashion.
Photos: Clap Studio
A tribute to the infinite nature of the universe. Stylist Hilary Tsui is a household name in the eccentric Hong Kong fashion district, where she is famed for her unconventional style. She poured all her energy and spirit of adventure into the concept for HER. Inside is exactly what is promised on the packaging: a universe for women who demand more from fashion than clothes off the rack. HER resembles a separate planet, transcended in the form of a super-galactic experimental box, where discerning fashion enthusiasts are encouraged to create their own style and make their mark. Everything in this store constantly references the narrative of space travel, as Tsui wants to encourage her customers to literally discover new things – not romantically idealised, but utterly pragmatic. At the end, every purchase is vacuum-packed. One never knows, right?
Photos: Be the Souk
Nicole Billi, endowed with the fashion gene as a daughter of Swiss retailers, was a buyer at Globus. It should therefore come as no surprise that she remains devoted to the industry in her adopted home Marrakesh. In 2012, Billi embarked on a life-changing vacation. She not only fell in love with the city. “We were waiting for each other,” the entrepreneur says about her husband, business partner, and father of her three daughters. The couple launched Be Marrakech, a riad (similar to a Roman atrium house) whose interior Nicole Billi designed in collaboration with local artisans. This was followed by the Camp Resort, Be Agafay, and Be the Souk in the industrial district of Marrakesh. The latter is a mixture of store, co-working space, and cluster for local artists. There, Billi implements projects with talented Moroccan artisans on behalf of a variety of clients. “We merge tradition with European aesthetics,” the multi-talented artist explains. The path to Europe has been paved with pop-ups such as recently at PKZ in Zurich.
A strangely empty space at first glance, which only reveals its plentifulness upon entering. SOM serves as a metaphor for the soul of its clientele, and the eternal tension between interior view and exterior presentation.
A glance at SOM is enough to suggest that there’s more to it than meets the eye. The approach adopted by this multi-brand store, located in the heart of Bratislava, is both intriguing and daring, making it a hotspot for local designer brands from the Czech Republic and Slovakia since it opened in early 2023. D415 Studio wished to reflect the complexity of its clientele with the slatlike, convoluted structure of the store: a fascination for the interplay of intro- and extroversion in fashion and the world of women in general. Upon entering, one only sees a a few scattered pieces of fashion. On closer inspection, each segment contains the collection of a selected Slovakian or Czech label. The penny drops. By offering a local range and an intimate, distinct atmosphere, SOM has pulled off a stroke of conceptual genius, which the team also promotes via social media. They express the cumulative power of their customers’ individuality – without compromise.
Photos: Great by Date
The online store Great by Date was launched early in 2023 in the spirit of a no-waste philosophy. The project initiated by Viennese entrepreneurs Regina and Nikolaus Hofer captures the zeitgeist, as well as the desire for sensible consumption without compromise. After all, it’s not only about rescuing high-quality products from needless disposal shortly before their expiry date, but also about indulging in mindful luxury. “The best products are those that are being used – both for the environment and the manufacturers. We assist the industry in selling goods that would otherwise no longer reach regular retailers,” Regina Hofer explains the simple logic of her business idea. The shorter the remaining shelf life is, the higher the discount for customers.
SEVEN GAUGE
The soft launch was a deliberate choice, as simplicity is a guiding principle. With its concise collection, Seven Gauge proves that less really is more. It even refrains from classifying whether coats, knitwear, and blazers are intended for men or women. Is this what one calls genderless?
Interview: Martina Müllner and Stephan Huber. Photos: Seven Gauge
“SEE NOW, WEAR NOW!”
Fashion without a gender focus. Do genderless concepts like those of Seven Gauge represent the future?
Federico Manservisi, Seven Gauge and Blue Hills Studio Creative Director: We consider the genderless look, characterised by broad silhouettes and individual lines, to be the ideal way of expressing ourselves. This is reflected in our choice of materials. Our starting point is always the volume of a fabric. For spring/summer 2023, for example, that is silk that's as puffy as wool. It is absolutely perfect for both genders.
Is genderless purely a question of philosophy? Or does this approach also have an economical angle?
Federico Manservisi: We intend to stay this course for an extended period of time. The underlying idea is to create a few powerful pieces that fit both genders and offer genuine quality at a very fair price level while maintaining a high fashion value. The fact that these pieces cannot be confined to one gender is in keeping with the zeitgeist. I developed the idea for the genderless strategy for very practical reasons: My wife frequently helps herself to my wardrobe.
Valeria Caffagni, Managing Director Seven Gauge: We plan to continue embracing gender neutrality, even though we fully intend to further develop the collection significantly. Not more pieces, but high-quality, unusual pieces that remain simple without being boring. What impact do seasons have?
Federico Manservisi: Our motto is: “See Now, Wear Now”. We focus on delivering our qualities to the stores when they can be actually worn. We have certainly learned the lesson that, in Central and Northern Europe, that means starting the summercollection in January with knitwear.
What is Seven Gauge’s target market for the first season?
Valeria Caffagni: Our potential lies in the fact that we are equally appealing to a fashionable store as we are to a more classic, or even streetwear-heavy, counterpart. We represent the entry-level price range in some, the highend price range in others. We bridge a gap in that respect. We are starting with 25 points of sale and simultaneously launching our own e-commerce channel with an external partner.
What are your plans for promoting the brand?
Valeria Caffagni: We rely on performance marketing, social media, and seeding. We believe that the product represents the value. In addition, we are planning to launch a pop-up store in New York in collaboration with resort store specialist Andrea Westerlind. We are always open to collaborative initiatives with retailers.
Is it a trend, or much more than that?
Fashion’s departure from gender boundaries builds new bridges: overcoming long-outdated differences also requires a change of mind. When neither femininity nor masculinity are at the fore, new modernity thrives. Genderless is an opportunity to find fashionable selfexpression beyond clichés and pigeonholes.
Text: Janaina EngelmannBrothánek, Martina Müllner.
Photos: Interviewees
Launched six years ago in Melbourne, Masons Luxury Menswear is an extremely curated concept that is now expanding to Sydney. Buying director Wendy Jiang blends street and urban wear influences with classic tailoring. She introduced many of the collections exclusively in Australia.
Genderless or genderfluid fashion has always existed. It originates from a sociocultural megatrend. However, it was always commercially negligible. What’s the current situation?
Wendy Jiang, Buying Director Masons Luxury Menswear: We’re seeing a big change. Gradually, we are seeing more and more female customers show an interest in our range – and Masons is a men’s concept through and through. If there’s one thing that sets us apart, it’s that we always buy our brands in a representative way. We would never just buy a few T-shirts from a brand. The fact that we venture deep into trends like techcore or gorpcore has also inspired many women. We’ve increased our proportion of female customers by another 15 percent and are now at a fourth.
Genderless collections transcend the traditional size grid. Is that a problem, especially in ecommerce?
My advantage is that I’m not only a buying director, but also work on the sales floor. In direct exchange, you can always provide ideal guidance, but it is a bit more complicated in e-commerce. The oversized trend makes it easier for us. You need many pieces in S or L, you can skip M.
Stealing from male wardrobes is nothing new, but given the high proportion of female customers at Masons, the question arises: What do women’s collections lack?
I wear between 60 and 70 percent menswear. And yes, I feel there is a gap. If I’m looking for a really good blazer, a piece that makes me feel confident and empowered, then I go for a men’s brand. I find many women’s collections very one-sided, highly tailored to a sexy female image that has nothing in common with women like me. I look for beautiful silhouettes, relaxed yet still ladylike.
Icons of genderfluidity such as Harry Styles or Lil Nas X lead the way in outfits focusing on bags, jewellery, and accessories does that open up a new market? Absolutely. We sold a lot of pearl necklaces! (laughs)
“I like the genderless
it
fashion. At Daniele Fiesoli, we predominantly use women’s fabrics, especially for the fashionable segment of the men’s collection. I interpret these materials in a masculine context. My wife, on the other hand, dresses very masculinely, particularly in terms of fits: everything oversized, barely tapered. Unisex allows for a very creative mixing of genres. Yet it’s important to me that it’s executed with style, not merely in an attempt to impress with a socio-political statement.”
“Genderneutral aesthetics have always been an integral part of our philosophy. In fact, an increasing number of brands are opting to structure their collections as unisex, because it’s more contemporary and in tune with what modern audiences demand. How can one still think in categories like man and woman in today’s world? It’s all fluid. Femininity and masculinity are, of course, not supplanted by this. On the contrary, they manifest themselves in strong personalities.”
concept;
has always existed in
Daniele Fiesoli, CEO and designer Daniele Fiesoli
Massimiliano Giannelli, CEO Société Anonyme
"I can absolutely understand that buyers are cautious about a purely genderless brand. It's even nicer when they see that a young and informed customer group really demands the styles and finds the fact that a collection is unisex exciting." Tobias Schellenberger, Managing Director RossiTobiasRossi PNTS Joop Women Sebago Seven Gauge GTA Hugo Boss Kings of Indigo Victoria und Victor Denzil Patrick
It was not the first time I was confronted with the phenomenon. Yet it was still so striking, so evocative, almost shocking. Back in Paris 1985, Jean-Paul Gaultier had invited the world to attend the launch of his first boutique in Rue Vivienne. There, he not only surprised the audience with an incredibly original, Pompeian-circus-like interior, but also with an outfit in which he danced through the premises uninhibitedly. Jean-Paul was wearing a man’s dress!
The fact that he subsequently entitled his men’s fashion collection of 1985 “Et Dieu Créa l’Homme” and sent his male models down the catwalk wearing skirts with jackets, bare backed, and in evening dresses was not such a great surprise after that. Simply put, Jean-Paul was always ahead of his time. Granted, Gaultier was not
the first to introduce the genderless theme in terms of fashion. Yves Saint Laurent wrapped his female models in Le Smoking in 1966! Not to forget Coco Chanel, Marcel Rochas, or even Marlene Dietrich. Marc Jacobs entered the fashion arena in a skirt much later. I mercilessly called the fashion designer, who rose to rock star stature at the 2009 Met Gala, Jean-Paul Gaultier’s grandson.
Louis Vuitton hired Jayden Smith for their 2016 womenswear campaign. Men’s skirts by Thom Browne are now bestsellers.
Nevertheless, thank you Jean-Paul for your magnificent contribution. Genderless is now featured on all the catwalks of the world – and beyond. It is quite remarkable that an increasing number of men – regardless of which gender they are attracted to – enjoy wearing shoes with heels, up to 16 centi-
metres high! Some are even complaining about a lack of imagination in the men’s departments. The result: more men wander into women’s footwear stores. Yet consumer culture remains conservative and pigeonholed in many ways – at least for now. After all, Louis XIV already wore high-heeled shoes in the 17th century, although they were reserved for kings then. Incidentally, the issue of rising male interest in women’s products also affects the cosmetics industry.
Those eager to dive deeper into the topic can do so by reading this book: Hilfe, mein Mann trägt Frauenkleider: Der Umgang mit genderless1). And the author? The Man in a dress!
Congratulations on ten years of Fil Noir! Brand owner Heiko Storz benefits from developing the product steadily, without turning the screw too far.
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Fil Noir
Heiko, tell us about your fondest memories and how Fil Noir has developed.
Heiko Storz, owner of Fil Noir: When I acquired the licence for Fil Noir ten years ago, I literally started with a pencil. I hit the road with a small suitcase and a tableau in an attempt to convince producers and agencies. We started with six sales agents and have grown steadily ever since, step by step. I’m immensely proud that Fil Noir has evolved into a brand.
Specialising is what it’s all about, isn’t it?
I’m a product guy through and through. Incidentally, I’m also a qualified tailor. That makes me all the more qualified to gauge the craftsmanship and know-how of our long-standing production partners in Eastern Europe. I am on site regularly, where we constantly explore what we can still improve. It’s meticulous work that I really enjoy. What insights have you gained?
Never copy and paste! An excellent collection builds on tradition, but it always needs to be new, to surprise. Fil Noir Mare, a capsule featuring printed swim shorts paired with t-shirts and terrycloth polo shirts, is a great example. Another new addition to Fil Noir Respect are T-shirts made of GOTS-certified jersey for women and men, in several variations in twelve colours each. Celebration introduces a non-seasonal blouse and shirt in very refined finishes at an attractive retail
“I’MThe essentials in mind: Heiko Storz. Never copy and paste: Fil Noir Donna and Fil Noir Uomo.
price of 99.90 Euros. The mark-up for both is 3.0, as an expression of gratitude to our retailers on our tenth anniversary. Overall, we maintain our healthy prices, focusing on shirts priced between 99.90 and 119 Euros in retail.
It’s important to you not to overshoot the mark. Absolutely! Our sales developed so well last season that we slammed on the brakes. Our production capacity is exhausted, and we strive to do what we do well. Fil Noir remains small and refined, a collection for enthusiasts appreciated by upmarket specialist retailers. We invest all our energy into maintaining that status.
www.fil-noir.com
The brands Superga and Sebago have realigned their structure in Germany. Licensee Bernhard Aschauer has founded CMH Vertriebs GmbH in Düsseldorf. Under the management of experienced footwear expert Pierre Lefebvre, the new company bundles all business activities and assures planning security.
Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Superga, Sebago
The classic shoe retail trade is in a downward spiral, fashion retailers remain cautious. “Conditions that suit us just fine,” laughs Pierre Lefebvre, hired to implement a new structure for the licensee of Superga and Sebago in the DACH region. “Bernhard called me and told me he needs a professional.” This professional – and his team
including many former associates – has been at work since early 2023. A fresh spirit is also prevailing at Turin-based licensor Basic Net AG. “The plan is to realise the full potential of the brands with structure and a strategy,” Lefebvre is convinced.
Let’s start with Superga: “A label that will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2025 and features an icon in the 2750 model. Unlike other sportswear brands, it boasts fashion heritage. That provides an excellent foundation for developing the brand distinctively.” Plenty of colour, an enjoyable price-performance ratio, and a timely promise to retailers: “We’ll never have a dark room that offers some models exclusively to certain
retailers.” Lefebvre analyses: “This is a malaise of the shoe retail industry. It is permitted to stock the brands, but not their bestsellers and hype models.”
With Sebago, smaller in terms of volume and turnover, an even more exciting task awaits. “Hats off to the positioning our colleagues in Italy or France have managed to establish,” Lefebvre says. “Sebago has great potential in the women’s segment, as well as in the fields of accessories and textiles.” The brand skilfully plays with its heritage, be it colour, thick soles, rivets, or detachable pins. “We intend to prove what these brands are capable of at the Seek trade show in Berlin.”
Italian, fashionable, unmistakable: Sebago.Sales, marketing, merchandising, and service are handled by CMH GmbH. Pierre Lefebvre is at the helm.
SUPERGA & SEBAGO/CMH VERTRIEBS GMBH “WE DON’T HAVE A DARK ROOM”Sebago is clearly evident on the trend radar.
When a hidden champion meets a bag specialist: Italian accessible luxury brand Orciani has switched allegiance to CCT Collectionen Christian Teufl – and is on the prowl.
Interview: Martina Müllner. Photos: Orciani
Claudia and Christian, a match made in heaven?
Claudia Orciani, President Orciani: I am convinced that our collection is a perfect fit for the German-speaking market. Our product is on par with designer bags in terms of quality, yet with a more efficient price-performance ratio. We are the perfect choice for women happy to pay for excellent quality. Now we intend to conquer this market segment. In Christian Teufl and his CCT Group, we have found the ideal partner to do so.
Christian Teufl, Managing Director CCT Group: We are really looking forward to this collaboration, and we have proven our capa-
bility in the past. Our first step is to present the collection in all its richness and beauty, drawing from exactly the same selection as in Milan. Regional distinctions are no longer acceptable, Orciani is a global brand.
What are the priorities in terms of adjustments?
Claudia Orciani: We need to share our brand vision. As a family business based in the Marche, which is the leading leather region in Italy, we invest uncompromisingly in design and raw materials. Every component is sourced from top manufacturers and tanneries that also supply the big brands. Offering such high quality at a reasonable price is unique.
Christian Teufl: That is the message we wish to convey to retailers. Orciani is a hidden champion that is still far from realising its potential in our market.
What will it take?
Claudia Orciani: Communication, investment, cooperation with retailers, events, and – above all – a sales team capable of opening the relevant doors for us.
“Orcianiproducts speak for themselves – such quality is unique in our price segment,” Claudia Orciani is convinced. CCT Group is the brand’s new sales agency in Germany and Austria.
Making change visible: lifestyle brand Paul&Shark is ushering in a new era in sales in Germany and Austria. The guiding principle: new, yet respectful of existing structures. style in progress met with Andrea Dini, CEO of the Italian family business, for a chat.
“More than 40 years ago, Germany was our first export market. We owe the highest respect to the Oliviero family, who developed the market,” Andrea Dini points out before talking about the future. The tenor within the company: welcome change, yet always in keeping with the existing customer base. “We refuse to leave a single end customer behind.” Select Studio has accepted the mission to make Paul&Shark’s evolution visible as a brand at the POS as well. “I’m convinced that we can engage our existing customers on
this journey, inspire them with the evolution of the brand,” Andrea Dini says with optimism. “The innovations come at the perfect moment, as our spring/summer 2024 illustrates what and who we are.”
Although operating globally, Paul&Shark remains in family hands. A conscious decision, as Andrea Dini explains: “We think in terms of generations, not quarterly targets. For Germany and Austria, we have only defined quality goals.” The brand hopes to take advantage of the current market dynamics:
“An increasing number of competitors are gradually retreating from the wholesale market. Everyone has their strategies, we have ours,” the CEO analyses. The message is all the clearer: “Paul&Shark is firmly committed to multi-brand retailing. Acceptance in an excellent store forms the nucleus of our success – in combination with our own outlets, of course. We will soon open a store in London and recently found a perfect location in Rome. We still see wholesale as the cake, not merely the cherry on top.”
Paul&Shark’s evolution is evident in a streamlining of the branding: the lettering is cleaner; the yachting is dropped. The shark retains its iconic status in the design, but no longer features in the logo. “I can see how good this step is for us. It opens up new horizons,” says Andrea Dini. www.paulandshark.com
From throwaway fashion to nevereverdisposable fashion: there are many good reasons for this. Resources are more expensive and scarcer than ever, and manual labor is a rare commodity that cannot be valued highly enough. Those who bring the preservation of beautiful products into the spotlight win: Meaning, relevance and attention.
The shift towards disposable fashion represented the worst-case scenario for the industry. It not only impacts working conditions and carbon footprints, but also has a profound effect on business. The consequences of the “everything everywhere” philosophy include mountains of clothes that are impossible to sell, even off the sales rack. Reutilisation offers a way out: from resale to rental, from deadstock design to alteration services. However, clothing needs to be robust in this context – and it must patch up beautifully. Are repairs a gold mine?
Luxury brands provide repairs as standard service, but nobody seems to be paying much attention. The pedestal is reserved for designers, not the artisans who sew piping, embroider flowers, and knit plaits. Or is it? Hashtags such as #visiblemending, #sashiko, and #refashionista herald a change in mindset. In New York, the colourful Eva Joan studio represents a breath of fresh air for stuffy alteration workshops. In Hamburg, Kunststopferei Konfekt proves that design and craft are often separated by mere arbitrariness. Concurrently, no-nonsense economics drive luxury repairs: trends come and go, while moths and missteps follow each season. British retail chain Selfridges recorded 28,000 repairs in 2021 – a mere blip compared to the company’s goals for 2030. The aim is to raise the percentage of customers visiting for second-hand, repairs, clothing rental, and cosmetics refills to 45. At present, less than one percent of all transactions are circular.
Climate awareness is hardly the only aspect of circular models. TikTok entrepreneurs are stripping the second-hand market bare in hopes of making a fortune with luxury vintage drops. Fashion companies are scurrying after them with resale concepts, discovering new opportunities in warehouses. Instead of writing off unsold clothing, they repurpose it as raw material. Dutch designer Duran Lantink dismantled and combined Browns deadstock as early as 2019, for example in the form of a coat featuring Dries van Noten and Remaine. This raises trademark issues, but it saves money and CO2 emissions without requiring a radical break. It is still selling fashion. A store can tap into new customer circles by allowing rotating designers to transform deadstock. This approach, however, requires a great deal of organisation, and not every location offers abundant fashion handicraft.
The fact that customers return or send back all manner of things creates a logistics nightmare for retailers. One antidote is an offer to enhance clothing. Visible mending influencer Kate Sekules even considers clothing repair to be co-design. A concept that works well in stores, too. Staff and customers jointly conceive the future of a garment: from the colour of new buttons to a skirt that used to be a jacket. This attitude – and story – transforms repair and alteration services into a creative force in retail.
Wear-and-tear can drive demand. In 2021, Nudie patched up 42,500 jeans in in-house tailoring studios. The brand provides the service free of charge for all its jeans, regardless of where they were purchased. To this end, Nudie cooperates with repair stations in stores such as Glore in Stuttgart and Regensburg. “Customers return to the store for the service, or even hear about us for the first time because of it,” Glore Stuttgart owner Nicola Haug explains. Even partnerships with repair start-ups are on the rise: The Seam and Net-a-Porter, Repair Rebels and Hess Natur, Sojo and Ganni. Yet one major hurdle remains. To date, fashion businesses limit repair services to their own brands, or clothes bought in their own stores.
Many problems can be solved digitally, yet a moth hole is not among them.
Manufacturers and retailers devote so much effort to storytelling. Every collection is flanked by the pursuit of content. Vintage clothing comes with its own compelling stories, especially when damaged. “Clothing is part of our identity, and if we really love something, we want to preserve it,” says Monika Hauck, founder of Düsseldorf-based start-up Repair Rebel. This is why there is marketing potential to be found in offering to buff scratches off your favourite shoes or knit new cuffs on your favourite cardigan. In return, these repairs send a signal to producers: this product is worth repairing. “However, a lot of things were not made to be repaired,” says Hauck. Sneakers, especially, are hard to repair due to a multiple of parts, fabrics, and glues. “Luxury products, of course, are easier to repair.” Their production values long-lasting materials and replaceable parts, after all.
Product development geared towards longevity not only embraces sustainability principles, but also creates a prerequisite for growth via resale. The second-hand market is projected to grow more rapidly than fast fashion in the years to come. This transforms clothing into an investment that avoids anything that wears out, shrinks, or is difficult to mend. Only if producers know that – and where – their leggings’ inseams fray, will they be able to improve their clothes. “We are able to show brands the life cycles and repair needs of what they produce in order to better inform them about their products’ durability,” says Layla Sargent about the collection of data at her London-based repair service The Seam. Many problems can be solved digitally, yet a moth hole is not among them. All the more astonishing, then, that stationary retailers have not yet embraced the repair business.
Many European countries are beginning to implement a right to repair. Retailers of kitchen appliances will likely be the first to discover the extent of accountability. The fashion industry is already capable of countering repair demands with inventiveness, not only in terms of production and repair design, but also in terms of business models. The fast fashion competitors are not asleep at the wheel. H&M is testing its Repair & Remake Atelier in Amsterdam, while Uniqlo is expanding its service of having a button sewn on or a tear mended for five dollars in the US.
The questions of who is supposed to carry out repairs and how far damaged clothing should travel remain. Theoretically, the workers currently sewing tons of fashion in Southeast Asia could do the mending. Yet in terms of logistics, transport costs, and environmental impact, that makes little sense. European repair start-ups, retailers, and brands are vying for skilled workers in small workshops, their success depending on pay and working conditions. The matter of social compatibility accompanies repairs from the niche to the mass market, all the way to pricing. If fashion companies are switching to longevity, there is still plenty of patching, cobbling, and dismantling ahead. One thing is certain: A clever business model does not end with the finished dress.
BOOK
“MENDING MATTERS”
Manual or bible? At any rate, this book by slow-fashion influencer Katrina Rodabaugh is an instant classic. @katrinarodabaugh
PAPARAZZI FODDER
CONVERTED CLOSET
Unbreakable: Kate McGuire creates one-of-a-kind dresses from second-hand clothes worn by Sarah Jessica Parker during the filming of Sex & The City sequel And Just Like That. @convertedcloset
MAP
WORLD MAP OF MENDERS
Kate Sekules’ interpretation of the world of darning and mending defines repairs as acts of co-design. visiblemending.org/s/world/
NETWORK
RETURE
“Better Than Brand New”: Reture commissions upcycling work by designers such as Joao Maraschin, Duran Lantink, Freya Simonne, Esther Knight (Fanfare), and Liam Hodges. bespoke.reture.net
Staff issues for repairs and maintenance
Is it possible to share sewing professionals?
G-Star knows where jeans are most frequently damaged, and the brand has trained several tailors in the Netherlands specifically in the field of repair. Customers can now have their trousers mended there – on G-Star’s dime.
g-star.com/en_nl/certified-tailors
What about planning security?
“Durability is a factor in sustainability. Extending it via the Nudie Repair stations is therefore an ideal fit for our concept. Repairing goods, however, entails a human resource cost that cannot be precisely quantified. While the service is generally well-received, demand comes in waves.”
Nicola Haug, owner of Glore Stuttgart glore.de“The contact restrictions during the pandemic were very tough on elderly people living alone, so we conceived the idea of engaging them for cashmere care. buttertea benefited from the fact that the generations of our parents and grandparents know much more about textile care than younger generations.”
Hans-Bernd Cartsburg, founder of buttertea buttertea.shop
1. PERSONAL RELATIONSHIP
“On Mending – Stories of Damage and Repair”
The stories one hears when darning the holes in other people’s clothes. Book by textile artist Celia Pym celiapym.com/on-mending
2. PARADIGM SHIFT
Timna Weber, London/Vienna
The collection as the crowning glory? No, thanks. Timna Weber envisages fashion as the starting point of her design system. Customers are encouraged to return clothing at a later date for the designer to alter. timnaweber.com, @timnaweber
3. ARCHIVE INSIGHTS
Ulla Johnson, New York
“Our pieces are future heirlooms.” As part of her resale business, Ulla Johnson invites customers on a journey through her collections’ history. preloved.ullajohnson.com
These seven designers dig deep into closets.
DURAN LANTINK, AMSTERDAM & PARIS
combines designers expertly. His fashion collages featuring luxury overstock wow on the catwalk – and clothe musicians such as Beyoncé, Billie Eilish, and Lizzo. @duranlantinkyo, duranlantink.com
CHRISTY DAWN, LOS ANGELES
propels cottagecore into the future. Her deadstock collection is not only inspired by vintage fashion, but also crafted from old fabrics. Because: “We honour Mother Nature and create beautiful clothes that last a lifetime.” christydawn.com/collections/deadstock @christydawn
4649.REC, LONDON
treats fashion like music. Kimonos transform into streetwear. “In the same way hip hop samples classic beats and reinvents them over and over,” explains designer Yumi. @4649.rec yoroshiku4649.com/reconnect
RONALD VAN DER KEMP, AMSTERDAM
is on a mission. His limited-edition statement pieces strive to show the world just how exciting and glamorous ethical fashion can be – made possible by deadstock and fabric waste. ronaldvanderkemp.com @ronaldvanderkemp
EB DENIM, LOS ANGELES
specialises in Levi’s 501. Elena Bonvicini used to sell repurposed jeans in the school gym, now she dresses celebs like Bella Hadid, Kylie Jenner, and Hailey Bieber. ebdenim.com, @ebdenim
LYPH (LIVE YOUNG PLAY HARD), LANCASTER
embraces eccentric detailing as brand essence. Designer Frederick Edmondson fuses deadstock and recycled fabrics “to challenge traditional understandings of clothing.” lyph.co.uk, @lyphapparel
IRIS VON ARNIM, HAMBURG
seizes the thread from both ends. Leftover yarn and bestselling design converge in the knitwear brand’s Re-Edition collections. irisvonarnim.com/reeditionvi
4 repair professionals from the outdoor, cashmere, fullservice sectors
Place London Düsseldorf St. Agnes Stuttgart
Repairing since 2020
Main business Repairs, alterations for clothing, shoes, bags, jewellery
Service for Consumers and partners like Net-a-Porter
2022
Repairs, alterations for clothing, shoes, bags, jewellery
Consumers and partners like Hess Natur, We Dress Collective
2008
Surfwear, outdoor gear; „Lived & Loved“ repairs and resale
2019
Cashmere knitwear 2x free care per purchase in the “Cashmere Spa”
Brand customers Buyers of own branded products
Price for a new jacket zipper from ca. € 51 from € 55 from ca. € 63 (not applicable)
Maxim “Wardrobe care and repair is really about mindset at the end of the day.”
Challenge “We have had to learn and develop how to provide quality control at scale.”
“Clothing does not have an expiration date.”
“It’s very often cheaper to buy something new than to have it repaired, and Germans are used to discounters. So, we are not jumping on a bandwagon, we are trying to create it.”
“Mending is about embracing the beauty of imperfections.”
“We have always focused on the quality of repair rather than the quantity, making sure that each repair is made to last, even if it takes longer.”
“One does not dispose of one's welted shoes when they are in need of repair, either.”
“Upon request, we do sew on buttons as well. However, we draw attention to the fact that, for reasons of sustainability, it makes little sense to send a garment across the globe to have buttons sewn on.”
The Future “We see mindsets around fashion changing from a model of ownership to a model of investment.”
“We start to celebrate style over fashion trends again. And if you have your own style, you need to take care of the things you have.”
“Clothing repair is now a buzz word, and it is amazing to see many brands and individuals lean into this solution-based and scalable craft.”
“We firmly believe that we have a responsibility for our products beyond sales.”
Camiceria Lionello Ceccotti. If you’re looking for custom-made shirts and blouses made in Italy, you’ll find them at this family-owned business. Lionello, founder of the label, has been taking his customers’ measurements personally since 1983, and an entire team of seamstresses then turns them into reality. Those who can’t make it to his atelier near Florence can attend one of his Salotto su misura: exclusive trunk shows in various cities. The sustainability aspect not only succeeds through longevity; the Camiceria also uses fabric remnants. “We also use trimmings for other products such as boxer shorts,” explains Lionello Ceccotti. lionelloceccotti.com, @camicerialionelloceccotti
Zerolab. Cassandra Kane and Gabriele Rorandelli’s project was born from the desire to reduce production waste and mix it with the craftsmanship of the Scandicci leather and fur cluster near Florence. Thus, Italy’s first hub for creative recycling was born. Here, designers, students and artigiani can come together, use co-working spaces and labs, participate in workshops and source leather scraps from the in-house warehouse. “It’s a training ground and incubator for emerging designers who see waste as an opportunity for new ideas and projects,” say the creators. zerolabfirenze.it
Cecchi de Rossi x Rifò Bags. Two Tuscan labels that specialize in sustainable fashion: Rifò makes apparel exclusively from recycled materials, Tommaso Cecchi de Rossi shoes and accessories from vegetable tanned leather that are entirely handmade. Since May, the brands have been teaming up to launch a capsule made from denim and leather scraps. Emerging are bags made from production waste, sophisticatedly designed and made by hand. “Zero waste, coolest style,” is how Cecchi de Rossi describes the concept. www.rifo-lab.com, @rifolab, www.cecchiderossi.com, @cecchiderossi
Alongside luxury knitwear brand Warm Me, cofounder Theresa Steinbacher has set up The Leftover Company. The name speaks for itself: Every piece is made of cashmere yarn surplus.
Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: The Leftover Company
Theresa, how did The Leftover Company come about?
Is it a Warm Me spin-off?
We currently source the yarn remnants from our own production. So, it is the feral sister of Warm Me – if you will. We had been pondering how to utilise leftover yarn for a long time. Our partners in Kathmandu, with whom we have been doing business for years, have traditionally used them for the local market. The notion that each piece manufactured in this way is unique and is given a new lease on life, so to speak, prompted me to launch my own brand a year and a half ago. It was initially embedded in the Warm Me collection, but hardly attracted any attention there. The story needed its own stage.
What kind of remnants does cashmere knitwear yield?
They include production scraps, bobbin remnants, and colour bobbin remnants, in other words yarn in colour shades that have been removed from the range. On top of that, there are defective pieces that are unravelled again.
How does working with remnants rather than regular wool impact the design?
It’s a very exciting process. The credo is: imperfection is the new perfection. The concept in itself shapes the design, from colour to knitting pattern. In the long run, we envisage using remnants from other knitwear factories in Nepal besides our own, and perhaps even yarns other than cashmere. The warehouses in the production countries are brimming with deadstock, and there are no limits to our ideas.
What is the benefit of recycling deadstock from a commercial point of view?
We harness an otherwise unused yarn to create a new product. The main motivation is certainly to avoid wasting
resources, especially in the case of a yarn that is quite scarce anyway. It also secures jobs in production. What would it take to scale the utilisation of knitwear remnants?
Our challenge is not the manufacturing process, as we produce on hand-knitting machines that allow a high degree of individuality. The challenge lies in gaining the acceptance of retailers, which proved to be quite difficult in the beginning, even for us. These knitted pieces cannot be ordered by the book. Ultimately, they are a little surprise of sorts. I am convinced that the end consumer is much more evolved in this respect. The second-hand market is booming, as is the very idea of buying something that is one of a kind.
Where do you foresee the limits of this approach?
I believe the starting point is the same for all manufacturers: remnant yarns, leftover fabric, and surplus are plentiful. That leaves the question of the production process. It is certainly easier for a small brand offering handmade products.
“THE
Is it possible to create something new by drawing from tradition? Alexandre Guarneri of Homecore and Mauro Simionato of Vitelli have adopted this approach as their brand philosophy, creating a contemporary version of luxury.
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Brands
“Please, take it all. It has been lying around for years and I don’t want to spend money on moving it to a landfill.” An encounter with a knitwear manufacturer, who showed him a room full of leftover spools of yarn, inspired Mauro Simionato to launch his Vitelli label. After all, what he found there in the storeroom was a precious resource: Leftover materials whose story he could tell anew in his collection.
“Vitelli is a contemporary knitwear collection rooted in traditional Italian craftsmanship,” says Simionato, who founded the label in 2017. He draws inspiration from the music scene of the 1980s, and the yarns are exclusively sourced from production remnants of Italian yarn suppliers, re-knitted or re-woven by smaller local businesses. The new underlying mindset is no less crucial: to extract the essence from the seemingly useless. Substance is also what drives Alexandre Guarneri. He launched Homecore, a streetwear brand with
ambition, in 1992. “I find it tiresome to constantly create fashion that merely represents variations of the same every season,” the Frenchman says. “Hip-hop is about peace, love, community, and fun; aesthetics are secondary to me. I wish to express this culture, for example by adding exciting interior elements to my styles.” So, Guarneri started creating collage linings for his garments, like landscapes made of surplus. “The fact that I don’t mindlessly produce new things, but rather use old things to tell new stories, ensures that I still enjoy my job after 30 years.” Does the collection thus appeal to younger people who are more aware of environmental fragility? “Sure, but I firmly believe that an increasing number of people desire honest products. They’re paying more attention to the environmental impact of their actions, regardless of age.”
For Simionato, the ecological aspect also has an economic dimension. “Production waste is reused, and logistics are kept tight with short distances,” he explains. “Appreciation of what is truly valuable is on the rise. Even if a business is to grow, luxury can still be slow and involve scarcity.” Guarneri takes this philosophy a step further with a Homecore rental platform. “Maybe this is the best way to extend the lifecycle of fashion. And it reflects my personal understanding of new luxury.”
@vitelli_official, @homecore_paris
Alex, you are considering offering Homecore for rent. What’s the idea?
Alexandre Guarneri, founder of Homecore: A rental system can help extend the lifecycle of clothing. I focus on style, not on sales or ownership. People enjoy consuming, and brands want to sell products. How could a rental system work?
It requires a change of mentality on both sides. Brands turn into service providers that handle storage, washing, and repair. Consumers need to be willing to use the service instead of accumulating possessions. There’s no reason to hoard pieces you don’t wear every day in your wardrobe. And if you do that, you don’t need more clothes –neither to buy, nor to rent.
A jacket that resembles a Lego set: Marfa Stance offers jackets assembled from individual components. Founder Georgia Dant has created a new form of sustainability that challenges modern consumerism.
Interview: Martina Müllner.
Photos: Joshua Tarn, Marfa Stance
Marfa Stance offers a jacket that can be expanded at any time based on a modular principle. Does such a philosophy translate into retail?
It’s a challenge, which is why the vast majority of our sales are generated via our website. Nevertheless, we have a retail presence with pre-configured jackets. We understand that it’s too complex to have all components at the ready. Accordingly, we have opted for trunk shows, during which we ourselves are on-site with consignment stock – our customers love that. The interaction between our team and the customers creates a friendly atmosphere, and people inspire each other.
Are these trunk shows exclusively held at retailers?
No, that’s what makes it so charming. Many of our clients are such fans that they host private dinners for us.
There is no higher recommendation than that.
Yes, that touches me deeply. Marfa Stance has become an insider tip for its wearers, an insider tip that they are keen to share with their community.
Was Marfa Stance always supposed to be a community brand?
In some respects, I am quite surprised by the level of enthusiasm. We launched Marfa Stance shortly before the pandemic, via Instagram and our website. I believe the fact that so many people resonated with us is a result of our visual identity and going live during the pandemic. Back then, people had time to pay plenty of attention to our concept. Our philosophy also fell on fertile ground at the time – and this community continues to support us today.
Made in Italy represents a core value of Marfa Stance. Why?
I adore the Italian natural sense of beauty and design, their tireless striving to always make everything as aesthetically pleasing as possible. You can’t teach that. I strive to champion Italian craftsmanship, which is a way of life! That allows the heritage to thrive.
Year-round wearability is an important USP of your jackets. Do seasons still matter?
I believe the concept of the thick winter jacket is obsolete. Our customers travel globally and are not willing to pack five coats for five climate zones. Pieces that adapt are real problem solvers. Our unbuttonable linings, collars, hoods, and extra layers are just that.
Final question: Why the commitment to women’s causes?
Gender is, in fact, a secondary consideration for me, even though we are an almost all-women team. Yet, as an entrepreneur, I operate in a highly male-dominated environment. I believe this creates a mandate to show what women can achieve.
Let's look the truth in the face: in our people's business, people are what's missing the most. Yet it's not initiative that's lacking. At every age, daring people set out to leave their own personal mark on the industry. Those who want to share this enthusiasm must forge new alliances and find help in new (digital) ways of storytelling.
His mindset is the source of the most innovative store concepts in the world today. From Riyadh and Dubai to London and Bangkok, Carmelo Zappulla and his team are creating immersive, phygital worlds of experience that are setting new standards. He also came up with the proposition for the new WOW concept store in Madrid by Dimas Gimeno Álvarez, formerly President of El Corte Inglés. He conceived WOW as a multidimensional space in which reality and fiction merge. A lighthouse project that finally crowns the founder of External References as MVP of the scene.
Interview: Martina Müllner. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: External Reference
External Reference received plenty of credit for WOW. What is the transforming element of this store that makes it so outstanding and new?
Carmelo Zappulla, Founder External Reference: Our goal was to create a place that is funny, outstanding, and entertaining at the same time. A space in which every floor is conceived like a theatre where things can always change and happen. This was the main idea for this new concept store: storytelling! And this story sometimes lasts for a year, sometimes only for a few weeks or even a day. On each floor that is dedicated as commercial space – because the rooftop houses the restaurant – we created spaces with digital skins that can be transformed within hours and with very limited investment. Like the second floor, which was designed to be like the catwalk of a fashion show, where WOW stages special events. The fourth floor is a very surreal space in which we have avatars that are moving benches we use for displaying. The sense of transformation is present everywhere in this house. Talking about storytelling, did you and Mr Alvarez choose to include the latest retail technologies and digital solutions in the store because of you’re very aware of the fact that human sales assistants will be rare in future? Well, in general, I’m always attracted to technology. But I like to think of technology as something that is part of our lives,
not distanced from human nature. It’s a means to elevate, change, and transform a static space into a dynamic one. At WOW, we don’t have much more technology than other stores, but it’s the use of this technology that is changing.
WOW itself is a phygital universe, merging a digital marketplace and a physical exhibition space in which the digital layer creates new experiences and sensations. We don’t use physical screens for advertising, but like a blank canvas for edited content that contributes to elevating the aesthetic experience of the customer. That’s why we installed interactive floors where people can flow.
A store being a phygital storyteller on several levels adds a new element to shopping.
Yes, absolutely. We wanted to change the way customers feel when buying a product. It’s like making a new discovery. That’s why we wanted to create a fluid space that carries customers throughout all the different floors – not only physically, but also digitally. The digital layer generates engagement and connectivity, a tool that underlines the brand strategy and guides visitors towards their shopping journey. WOW is a celebration of digital native brands, the Metaverse, and even gaming technologies. Do you think that this will become the driving force in fashion retail?
Well, I believe that retail is in crisis. If you don’t change, you’ll have to close. It doesn’t mean that offline shopping will disappear. I’m sure that it’ll remain a part of human history, as all things do since the very beginning of time. People enjoy shopping. Therefore, experience is crucial, and we have to focus on that. Buying is just a transaction. That’s why, for me, WOW is the perfect example of retailment – the combination of retail and entertainment.
What about the commercial aspect of this in-store experience?
We design the future with awareness of the past – for a future that we don’t yet know. For a designer, designing always involves forecasting. I believe the future of retail belongs to stores that are flexible, an ever-evolving lab. It’s a theatre in which things are happening, in which you can build a community. You don’t visit to buy; you visit to have fun and buy. It must transmit the values of a brand. At the same time, it needs to be a lab in which you study the behaviour of your customers to understand them better. In my opinion, stores will become something like a stock exchange, with dynamic pricing and offering, in which you can completely digitise stock and try on pieces in 3D. The digital element will help make life easier for customers. Yet at the same time, there are physical aspects they want to experience. Therefore, the location is crucial, as is the story and even the experience itself.
For Black Panther: Wakanda Forever, she once more created a crown and necklace for Ramonda, played by Angela Basset, and subsequently celebrated her second Oscar as part of designer Ruth E. Carter’s team in 2023. Salzburg native Julia Koerner now stands on the brink of an international breakthrough with her own collection, JK3D. Interview: Stephan Huber: Photos: Julia Koerner
"Queen of 3D Printing” – is that a title that appeals to you?
Julia Koerner: (laughs) I consider it an acknowledgement of years of pioneering work.
Work that has certainly paid off. You recently received your second Oscar for Black Panther. That’s unquestionably a real career highlight. Ruth E. Carter contacted me after seeing some of my work at the haute couture shows in Paris. We started researching traditional African Isikolo hats and digitising authentic Zulu patterns. This evolved into the now iconic costume
for Queen Ramonda, but we didn’t have an actress yet, so there were no measurements. Once Angela Bassett was cast, we fitted the costume within a few days. That was a major breakthrough.
That, in fact, foreshadows the processes that accelerate digital design in fashion. Absolutely. Back in 2016, it was still considered nothing short of magical to perform a 3D scan on a person and get started right away. Today, it’s commonplace. Yet Hollywood is just the tip of the iceberg. The development of your brand JK3D is, perhaps, even more important to you?
Actually, my company has been around for eight years. So far, however, I have primarily focused on collaborations in order to establish myself in the 3D field. My very first print dates back to 2005, when I was still a student. My first dress left the printer in 2012. These projects were always implemented very swiftly, due to the haute couture character of fashion shows. Black Panther was pivotal, as it allowed me to inspire a broader public for 3D. I received an increasing number of requests from friends and acquaintances who wanted to buy one of my designs. With advances in technology, I can now produce prototypes in three days instead of three weeks. A handbag can be printed in roughly ten hours.
The essence of JK3D lies in accessories and home décor. Is production on-demand?
That is an integral part of our sustainability policy. For
home décor, we rely on biodegradable PLA – a plastic derived from plants. For the bags, we source plant-based resin extracted from soybeans. A key feature is that our designs can be personalised. Ultimately, each bag or vase can be transformed into a unique piece. What are your growth prospects?
JK3D is currently available in its own online shop www. jk3d.com, with two production locations: Los Angeles and Vienna. If an order is placed in Europe, we produce in Vienna. If an order arrives from the US, we produce in Los Angeles. In Vienna, even the raw materials are delivered to the studio by bicycle. Now, however, we intend to take the next step by cautiously opening up to wholesale, both online and in-store. In association with these new partners, we seek to explore the possibilities that this technology offers, not
3D technology is still relatively young. Pioneers like Salzburg-born designer and architect Julia Koerner are essential to raise awareness and make the technology more suitable for everyday use.
least in the luxury segment. On-demand and personalisation will play a crucial role, as will targeted collaborations with brands and artists. This strategy may not deliver growth quite as quickly, but it is important to me to develop the brand strategically and consciously – and we are not dependent on investors. How close are we to actually producing clothing with 3D printers?
My Arid dress came very close. The individual components left the printer ready for assembly. They merely needed to be cut out and put together. The principle is reminiscent of Ikea, and just as simple. Naturally, the familiar wearing comfort is not there yet, but this aspect is being researched in depth. The same applies to sustainable raw materials to produce the fabrics. Examples include mycelium or fruit and vegetable waste. As soon
as this is accomplished, we will be able to wear clothes from the 3D printer. So, it’s just a matter of time? Yes. Things could actually move quite quickly. The technology is largely in place. The market is ready, and so is – in any case – the consumer. Not only the product itself is highly fascinating, but also the entire process of its creation. It has so much storytelling potential. Yet 3D printing is only one way to produce differently, but it is not the only way. 3D knitting or biomaterial moulding come to mind. There are so many approaches, all of which I find incredibly exciting.
The staffing gap is real, and those who don't want to go down the path of shorter opening hours or poorer service must use digital intelligence. The techno-alternatives to the sales consultant do not come with a neoliberal logic that makes bold rationalization dreams a reality. It comes with the awareness that man and machine work best when they step up together. It's worth taking a curious, open-minded look at these (digital) alternatives.
“Our Doob 3D avatar scanner generates traffic at the POS, especially among younger people,” says Sebastian Böhm, CEO of Doob SE. “Having an avatar that resembles oneself evokes emotions and is eagerly shared with friends or on social media.” The technology is based on an in-store 3D avatar scanner that customers can easily operate without assistance. “This scanner bridges the gap between brick-and-mortar retail and e-commerce. It will assist us in making purchasing decisions in the future. A virtual fitting room is a pivotal avatar application in tomorrow’s e-commerce.” www.doob.eu
Ameria’s touchless solutions work on almost every platform, from tablets to LED walls.
Human interaction is what defines shopping in a physical store. To which extent does your digital solution enrich the POS?
Johanna Mischke, Marketing Manager Ameria: We have developed Virtual Dress-Up, which merges emotional appeal with the customisation capabilities of online shopping. Touchless gesture control technology enables you to configure an avatar and try on clothes virtually. This encourages customers to interact. Moreover, fashion retailers can showcase their entire product range interactively in the smallest space, boosting sales in the process. It’s the ideal online-offline blend!
www.ameria.com
“Every Instagram video triggers a response,” says Dominic Fellinger. The store owner considers it common practice to use social media platforms such as Facebook and WhatsApp for video shopping and to promote the latest outfits. “It’s received extremely well and boosts our turnover.”
A side effect that has gained importance is an increase in popularity and customer proximity. Such personal videos reduce any inhibitions customers may have about visiting the store. “What’s easier than watching a video? Yet the customers enjoy visiting us all the more, greeting us like old friends who they have got to know via our videos. It’s wonderful!” www.fellinger-moden.at
“Ameria is the global market leader for integrated gesture control and sets standards for touchless screen interaction.” Johanna MischkeA strong online sales presence without an online shop: Fellinger Moden in Vöcklabruck. Doob SE’s virtual fitting room promises fun and generates traffic.
In metropolises like London, shopping with same-day delivery is common practice. If you lack the right outfit for a party in the evening, you can likely remedy the situation within an hour. Yet what if you feel like combining purchases from several stores and brands? Meet the Harper Concierge shopping app, which affords users the opportunity to mix and match from different sources. The concierge then delivers the accumulated purchases, and even picks up returns. On request, stylists stay for a fitting and offer advice.
Continuing the tradition of the traditional concierge, Harper Concierge collects purchases from various stores and delivers them to the customer.
Christian, how does messaging software attract customers to a store?
Christian Strauch, CEO Mateo: Mateo promotes customer loyalty. Our software can be used, for example, to send newsletters via WhatsApp and automate birthday greetings. The most important aspect, however, is direct exchange with customers. All communication channels are consolidated in a central mailbox, including Facebook, Instagram, WhatsApp, and classic e-mails. Every customer has a designated contact person, and Mateo ensures that messages are answered diligently and promptly through every channel. Best practice?
Stulz Mode, for instance, promoted its Stulz & Friends week via Mateo, assuring that events such as live shopping were booked early. Due to the user-friendliness of the software, implementation into reality is child’s play.
www.hellomateo.com
More than a software solution: Mateo is a digitisation ally.
“Our digital mannequin appeals to the Spotify generation,” says Clare Cryer, Vice President Growth & EMEA at Outform. A QR code allows customers to interface directly and control the content. “You can choose which model you see on screen, so the clothes are presented on a person who matches your body type and ethnicity.” Outform aims to help assess fit and style, which, in turn, helps to reduce returns. “Once you’re done, you can click through to the shopping cart and use the desired payment option securely from your mobile phone.” www.outform.com
According to Bernhard Heiden, CSO Schweitzer & Creative Director Interstore, the acute shortage of skilled workers demands new tools: “The product always comes first. A well-conceived presentation of merchandise, in combination with targeted storytelling, can convey expertise, as well as communicate product information and tips, even without ongoing specialist advice. So-called talking fixtures impart key information to consumers and contribute to an emotional, warm atmosphere, even without the continuous presence of a professional.”
A personal shopper in every pocket: Klarna has introduced Ask Klarna, a free service that connects customers with fashion experts via chat or video call. The aim is to facilitate finding the perfect product from among thousands of brands, stores, and goods in the luxury segment – without leaving the comfort of your own couch. Another new feature is that the Klarna app’s AI-powered shopping feed delivers product recommendations that update in real time as the tool learns more about the user’s preferences. Alongside its own AI initiatives, Klarna has collaborated with Open AI to provide curated product recommendations for users who asked ChatGPT for shopping inspiration via a plugin. The new features are currently only available in a few countries, by the end of the year in Germany. www.klarna.com
Plazah
“Phygital is the new reality.”
Roger Casals, CEO Plazah
Plazah facilitates customer advice by external experts, even in multilabel stores. How?
Roger Casals, CEO Plazah: Imagine the following scenario. You spot a product you like in a store. Via a QR code, Plazah instantly connects you with a brand expert – via chat, voice call, or video chat. The expert forwards you a coupon via your smartphone, which you can then use to have the product sent home or to take it away directly by redeeming the coupon at checkout.
Wouldn’t customer loyalty benefit from the sales team onlocation imparting that knowhow?
Often there’s nobody available. With the rise of online shopping, many stationary stores have reduced staff and now resemble warehouses full of products, but lacking know-how. We’ve become accustomed to immediacy as we’ve become more digital. That’s why I believe in a phygital future. www.plazah.com
Can’t be done doesn’t exist, they don’t know her: entrepreneurs who courageously throw themselves into the most beautiful snake pit in the world. Anyone who starts a fashion brand today must provide clear answers to the question of why. If they do, the doors are wide open. Because: The power of a new idea has lost none of its magic.
Philipp Ledl, founder of Whyat: Our brand grew out of the community we built around the streetwear store of the same name in Vienna.
Philipp, what did you do completely differently with Whyat?
My goal was to build a strong and, above all, genuine relationship with the community right from the start. I also personally went on a search for production. First in Austria and since 2020 in Italy. There, I built up a network of suppliers and manufacturers who usually only work for big houses like Dior or Bottega Veneta. Our individual and flexible approach allows us to offer the same qualities as luxury brands, but to put something completely new on the table in terms of process.
Why is less more for you guys?
There is such a surplus of creativity and products in the market that the customer is overwhelmed by it. We produce two collections a year, which is quite enough. Not everyone has to wear Whyat. And it must be understood that a product can and should stay in circulation longer! Our community can buy and wear products that also look good when they age.
Fancy retro tennis socks were what sneaker fans Moritz and Felix Otten were missing. So they started J.Clay in 2017, with contacts in the textile industry, know-how in communication design, commercial knowledge and a vision. “J.Clay is designed in Mönchengladbach and sustainably produced in Portugal,” says Sina Moll, Head of Sales and Event Management, who is one of J.Clay’s five team players. “Initially, we manufactured in China, but switched to Portugal in 2020 as our awareness of sustainability grew.”
On top, J.Clay was initially sold only online. “Now we are focusing more on concept stores and exclusive chain stores.” Another lesson learned? Build multiple footholds, with a children’s collection and a private label subsidiary. “We didn’t do everything right and learned all the more as a result,” says Sina Moll. “We are very happy about the development and can’t wait to see what else is to come.” www.jclay-socks.com
He expects good stories and a personality behind products:
Du&Ich
“I needed another kick,” says Britta Bischoff. After 18 years in fashion sales, she founded the knitwear label Du&Ich with Carolin Mulvad in 2021. “The clocks in Peru tick differently, but it’s exactly what we want to do: a small, fine alpaca knitwear collection with a lot of love in the product.”
At the same time, Britta Bischoff founded Die Fischmädchen, for the sale of fish rolls with certified salmon from Norway, which she smokes and finishes in elaborate handwork. A contradiction to fashion? More like an exciting addition with a grounding effect. “In order to reconcile everything, we have learned to target our strengths and think carefully about who fits in with us. We are in direct contact with the knitters in Peru, also have no one standing between us and the alpacas. A good feeling! After the second collection, we are now looking forward to round three!” www.duundich.hamburg
“It has to feel right,” says Chris Wichert, who always listens to his gut feeling when making any decision. Together with Johannes Quodt, the passionate sneaker fan founded the shoe label Koio, which is being manufactured in a small, modern family business in Italy. Their regenerative sneaker collection uses only leather from humanely raised cows at regenerative farms. “The goal of these farms is to pull CO2 out of the atmosphere and store it in the soil.” Koio was a luxury shoe label from the very beginning - only later did it add the sustainable claim that is now an inseparable part of its USP. “The shoe industry is one of the biggest polluters; we want to change that,” explains Chris Wichert. “In general, we have learned to be flexible and listen to what the market wants.” Thus, vegan shoes now also complement the collection, appealing to younger people with lower prices. For brand and sales development in Europe, Koio has found the right partner in Monica Marando of MMB Consulting. www.koio.co
Uwe, at the beginning of this year you announced your slow retreat from the front line of your companies, only to launch new projects every four weeks Like a Bee, AS Agency, the knitwear brand POP, Wise Man Club, the consulting project for Distretto12, Trend Fashion Club, all under the roof of Creatore Consulting. So not a farewell after all?
Uwe Bernecker, serial founder: It is. I perceive myself in a new role. Today, I want to be the initiator, the networker, the one who pushes - the rest must and should be done by others. Even if we men of the baby boomer generation don’t want to admit it, there’s now a number six in front.
Wisdom of age? I will be so bold as to ask you directly you yourself are known for a twinkle in your eye.
It’s more the desire to give something back and to use my experience for projects and people I believe in. I feel it’s a privilege to be able to enjoy my life a little more today and at the same time make a big difference.
Your resignation see Funky Staff has concrete reasons. Tell us more!
I’m of the opinion that we shouldn’t leave corner price points. Many companies have shot up prices far too frivolously. My wife Kerstin and I calculated
back and forth for two weeks and came to the conclusion: someone in the chain has to cut themselves off, otherwise prices cannot be maintained. Our solution: in future, the producer will invoice the retailer directly, without any detour via Funky Care GmbH in Frankfurt. That is revolutionary! That is altruistic!
Yes, but self-interest really doesn’t drive me. Just remember “Wir machen AUF_merksam!”, a complete non-profit campaign to which I dedicated myself completely. Personally, I have learned lessons from it, but the fact that I always burn with full passion for the causes of my heart will not change.
Which one do you care about the most right now?
Like a Bee is a high-flyer, I’ve never experienced that before in my entire career. At AS Agency, the phones never stopped ringing.
"Life’s not a bowl of cherries” is an expression invoked by the baby boomer generation to remind others that work isn’t primarily about enjoying yourself and that young professionals should endeavour to work harder. The hope is that discipline and longer working hours can counteract the shortage of skilled workers caused by changing demographics. Yet doesn’t this have a deterrent effect? Another, hardly effective measure against skilled labour shortages is the often-discussed lateral entry into the industry. People from outside the sector, with inadequate training, are expected to fill the staffing gaps. Workers who lack skill to address a lack of skilled workers. Surely not?
Addressing the lack of skilled labour in the textile and fashion sectors requires more efficiency. Regarding digitalisation and robotics, we need to begin making up for lost ground in order to free existing personnel from burdensome, repetitive tasks and attain a higher level of value creation overall. The Pareto principle – to achieve 80 percent impact with 20 percent effort – should also be observed in the work environment. Currently, the opposite is the case. We are smothered by bureaucracy and fail to focus on the essentials. Young talents should be allowed to assume more responsibility for change, as they bring the necessary knowledge and agility to the table. Hierarchies need to be removed – old and young must interact at eye level! Moreover, especially in our industry, the shortage of skilled workers could be overcome quickly if we ceased to recruit domestically. Our supply chains are international, why not our staff? Proper training of the young generation, regardless of their origin, is a foundation for these skilled workers. In order to enthuse welltrained young people for textiles and fashion, there is another challenge that needs to be addressed: a vigorous advancement of sustainability! The negative image and practices of wasting resources, resulting in mountains of rubbish, and disregard for social standards must be honestly and permanently overcome. Talent can only be found and retained if our work is meaningful and, yes, fun. Maybe we all need some more cherries, after all?
They are heroes: anyone who wants to open a store today is met with incomprehension in many places. The fact that these people dare to do it anyway may have more sense of reality than their bank advisor believes. In all European economies, retailing is undisputedly the most important economic driver. Even the current stuttering in some places does not change its market power. But you don‘t cut pieces of this cake with old, blunt knives: A willingness to innovate and personal commitment are the success factors.
Skandi brands for fashion, jewelry, beauty and now interiors: Aest.Store opened in Düsseldorf‘s Flingern district four years ago. Now the concept is being continued at a new level in Oberkassel.
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Aest.Store
Four years after Flingern comes Oberkassel: Katharina Meerkamp‘s second store represents the next stage of the original concept. “I have learned, drawn conclusions and refined,” says the store owner. “The new store is the stage for that.” She remains true to Scandinavian fashion, with Baum and Pferdgarten, Ganni, Rabens Saloner, Filippa K and Rotate. Add to that interiors, jewelry and beauty. A freshly and contemporarily curated selection that especially appeals to young women. The neighborhood is perfect, Katharina loves the spirit of Oberkassel and also lives near Luegallee. Local groceries, restaurants, cafés and shops alternate. “Now the street is being rejuvenated; stores like Glore are coming in and fit coherently into this microcosm. It‘s the perfect environment for Aest, as the diversity all around makes it even more rewarding to visit.”
Luegallee 15, Duesseldorf/Germany
www.aest-store.com, @aest_store
Owner: Katharina Meerkamp
Sales area: 80 sqm, Employees: 5
Opening: March 2023
Women‘s brands: Agolde, Baum und Pferdgarten, Blanche, Filippa K, Ganni, H20Fagerholt, Opéra Sport, Rabens Saloner, Remain Birger Christensen, Rotate Birger Christensen and others.
Accessories brands: Hein Studio, Hello Love, Le Bonnet, Maison Louis Marie, Nailberry, Pols Potten, Stora Skuggan, Sui Ava, Trine Tuxen and others.
After 13 years in Vienna‘s Siebensterngasse, Jakub Arnold has found the right location for his new store in Josefstadt, Vienna‘s eighth district. The sales rooms are a bit smaller, but the adjoining warehouse offers enough space, as his business is increasingly shifting to the online sector.
Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Christian Gigi Beham
In business since 1996:
Why change locations after 13 years? The new lease would have been 55 percent higher, Jakub Arnold tells us in our interview. He was not willing to pay that much more and closed the store behind Museumsquartier at the end of April. Instead of just continuing with the nearby Red Wing Shoe Store, his online store and the Toms online store for Austria, the business continued seamlessly on May 2 in a new location close to good restaurants, nice cafés and cool bars. Pants shortening, special customer orders or resoling of welted shoes, it‘s all part of the individual service. The portfolio includes a balanced mix of brands with decades of
tradition as well as labels that have what it takes to become real classics. The latest additions to the range are sneakers from Hoka or the American cooler and thermos cup specialist Yeti. “We work very longterm with our partners,” says Arnold. Since Corona, his online sales have increased by 60 percent. “We are not on Amazon, but only on premium platforms like Trouva or Miinto, and we are soon switching our system from Shopware to Shopify because of the simplified connection to online shopping platforms,” explains Arnold, who has been in the business since 1996. For inspiration and to meet new people, he visits Pitti Uomo
in Florence and the trade fair in Paris before heading to Salzburg and Munich to order.
“Of course, more and more is now done via computers, but the personal exchange and being with nice people just gives you so much more.” That‘s as true for shopping as it is for his stores.
Josefstädter Straße 52, Vienna/Austria, www.arnoldsvienna.com
Brands: Baracuta, Carhartt WIP, Canada Goose, Crossley, Edwin Europe, Filson, G.R.P. Firenze, Manifattura Ceccarelli, Merz B. Schwanen, Norse Projects, Pinq Ponq, Red Wing Shoes, Scarti Lab, Solovair, Stetson, Ten-C, Toms, Woolrich, Yeti and others.
Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Càos Silvia Bini
Silvia Bini has been a fashion icon in Viareggio ever since her father opened the first fashion boutique in the 1970s. In 2017, the entrepreneur took the bold step of opening her third shop (out of four today): Càos – a luxury boutique with a sea view. The store is located in the famous passeggiata, a lively pedestrian zone of Viareggio, right next to the renowned five-star Hotel Principe di Piemonte, amidst the bagni for which the Tuscan Riviera is so famous. The open spaces and large shop windows command a direct view of the beach umbrellas, the sea, and the hustle and bustle of the beach. Is more dolce vita even possible?
The product range is designed to celebrate these fine moments in life. Carefully curated and richly decorated, luxury brands such as Gucci, Saint Laurent, Céline, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, Chloé, and Jacquemus vie for the favour of customers. The shop-in-shop concept, however, does not resemble the structure of department stores, but rather that of an art gallery, where individual artists or luxury brands can show their latest creations in separate areas.
Once visitors have taken stock, another highlight awaits: A rooftop terrace with a 360-degree view of the marina, the open sea, the city’s Art Nouveau buildings, and the Apuan Alps – the ideal location for the best fashion events in Viareggio, if not all of Versilia.
Viale Guglielmo Marconi 111/112, Viareggio/Italy
Opening: 2017, Owner: Silvia Bini
Sales area: 300sqm
Brands: Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Céline, Chloé, Fendi, Gucci, Jacquemus, Jil Sander, Loewe, Roger Vivier, Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney, Valentino
Text: Veronika Zangl. Photos: My Fair Affair Nina and Rainer Stechl launched their online store in September last year. It was prompted by the desire for fair and sustainable fashion and beauty products with aesthetic added value. When they failed to find what they were looking for in the retail environment, they stepped up to the plate themselves. “My Fair Affair is clearly geared towards a fashion-conscious audience. We strive to broaden the spectrum and especially catch those that still think fair fashion entails boring ecolooks. Some excellent sustainable labels have long proven that on-trend style, fair manufacturing, and sustainability are not mutually exclusive. We select our brands and their respective product ranges accordingly,” says Nina Stechl. She contributes expertise gained at a large communications agency, while Rainer
Stechl draws on his experience gathered in the textile industry.
The merits of My Fair Affair are obvious: “Unlike a stationary retailer, we have 24/7 sales capability and can present offers that are tailored to the needs of our customers.” Yet ideas for a stationary version are already under deliberation. “As a first step, we intend to establish ourselves online, continuously expand the product range, and improve user experiences,” explains Rainer Stechl. “In addition to an expanding assortment of products, we are primarily focusing on interesting content about the brands, materials and manufacturing processes.” The prerequisites include fair working conditions, sustainable materials, and chemical-free manufacturing processes. “We deliberately do not impose any conditions such as production in Europe,” adds Nina Stechl. “Some of our brands are prime examples of how fair production is also perfectly possible in Asia.”
www.my-fair-affair.com
Opening: September 2022
Owners: Nina and Rainer Stechl
Brands for women: Ecoalf, Jan N June, Kings Of Indigo, LangerChen, Lanius, Lavandera, Les Racines Du Ciel, Mila Vert, Rita Row
Brands for men: About Companions, Ecoalf, Jan N June, Kings Of Indigo, LangerChen
Accessory brands: Democratique Socks, Denise Roobol, Pssbl
Cosmetics: The Glow
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: The Qool Store
“We have fulfilled a childhood dream,” says Boris Mirkovic. His friendship and partnership with Nikita Kvitkin is well-tested; both have been running the Lola label, with premium basics made in France, since 2019. With this aesthetic, they also set the bar high for the rest of the menswear at The Qool Store: “We shop more feminine, bolder and more experimental. It excites us to prove that the customers for that exist,” says Mirkovic. With only a small women‘s share, the founders are challenging another set of beliefs. The choice of labels follows a very sure inner compass: “We prefer to work with people who have the same values,” says Mirkovic. He and Kvitkin want to network and create new connections. So once a month, the store becomes an event space, for example with late-night or release shopping. At the same time, their sales agency The Qool Agency is in the starting blocks. During the order phase, the back of the store becomes a showroom for Okej Studio‘s Amendi, Lola, Daluma and Interioeur collections.
Haroldstraße 14, Düsseldorf/Germany, www.theqool.de
Opening: March 2023, Owner: Nikita Kvitkin, Boris Mirkovic
Employees: 2, Sales area: 115sqm
Men‘s brands: NN07, Amendi, Barbour, Drykorn, Elvine, Lola, Samsøe Samsøe, Studio Seidensticker, Obey, Welter Shelter and others.
Women‘s brands: Amendi, Drykorn and others.
Accessories and footwear brands: Daluma, Duke & Dexter, Flamingo‘s Life, Mercer Amsterdam, Oswen et al.
Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Flow
Being a trendsetter is one thing – defending this reputation since 2007 is another. Florentine concept store Flow, run by the Pecchioli family headed by family patriarch Paolo, has managed to do just that. They are also the creators of Gerard: a genuine fashion institution in Florence. Flow was always supposed to be more niche than the legendary Gerard store. Nicola and Matteo Pecchioli, together with Gabriella Giorgi and Gioia Rossi, have created a next-generation multi-brand store in a 13th-century palazzo, just a few steps from Piazza della Signoria. Flow is all about setting trends. In particular, it showcases women’s and men’s collections, as well as accessories, by new, up-and-coming brands with an unbelievable love of detail. Flow is regarded
as a national and international incubator for newcomers. “Collections that hang at Flow are cool, and usually represent the next trend. It is an honour to be listed here,” says Ginevra Fagioli, owner of Caftanii, whose brand is sold by the store. Gabriella and Gioia Pecchioli travel extensively to discover such treasures: France, Japan, and America, never forgetting the made-in-Italy aspect. Established brands such as Blazé Milano, Però, Indress, Tagliatore, and Avant Toi are featured alongside completely unknown brands. What are the selection criteria? In line with the internal purchasing motto: “If it doesn’t flow, it doesn’t go.” It was precisely this flow that gave rise to the collaboration with Vettori in 2020, transferring the typical Flow style to the home décor sector. The interior design products also adhere to the motto of compiling sought-after and often hard-to-find products that are primarily aimed at those who love added value and uniqueness. Jewellery, imported books and magazines, and a high-quality selection of independent music round off the Flow experience. A tradition since the beginning: at Via Vecchietti, Flow hosts concerts, live sessions, performances, and all sorts of events for a change of pace. Just as long as it flows.
Via Vecchietti 22, Florence/Italy, IG: flowstore.fi
Opening: 2007, Owner: Pecchioli family
Sales area: 200sqm
Brands: Agolde, Alberto Biani, Avant Toi, Balia, Blazé Milano, Caftanii, Dejamis, Indress, Jejia, Jerome Dreyfuss, Mackintosh, Però, Pierre Louis Mascia, S. Santoro, Sea New York, Tagliatore, Ten-C, The Gigi
Like
In early 2023, cult store Antonia opened its second store in an extraordinary location. Portrait Milano is a former convent, an imposing 16th-century complex that has been restored to its full glory thanks to recent renovations. The project has bigger ambitions than just being Antonia’s second shop in the city. It wants to be a lively incubator for multicultural activities and events. “The new format breaks with the classic fashion boutique schema and takes an innovative approach. Up-and-coming names with a clear identity will find visibility here, plus we combine limited editions that are only available here. We want to become a real focal point in the city, a must-see,” says Maurizio Purificato, co-founder of Antonia. With this in mind, the sophisticated brand mix for women includes well-known labels as well as up-and-coming designers. The men’s section follows the same approach and excites through a curated selection of sneakers with a focus on unique drops and collaborations. Completing the concept are five monobrand corners that alternately showcase different brands.
Via Sant‘Andrea 10, Milan/Italy, www.antonia.it, @antoniamilano
Opening:
Brands:
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Neu|Mann Conceptstore
“Whoever comes to me should just enjoy their time,” says Florian Papenbreer. In March, he took over the store Männersache and made it his own thing by turning it into the Neu|Mann Conceptstore. The 26-year-old has come full circle, as his whole family is well-known in the industry anyway. He started with an internship with his uncle at Modehaus Papenbreer in Erfurt, became inspired and apprenticed and worked at Leffers before learning about the distribution side at PME Legend. “My grandfather laid the foundation of the Papenbreer fashion houses here in Lippstadt. Now I‘m looking forward to showing in my own store what excites me personally.” The name is also a reminiscence of the grandfather, because he was an admirer of artist Max Neumann. At the same time, it points to the fashionable, non-pretentious assortment for men who can get new clothes in a homey atmosphere. That there is also a play corner for the kids of the fathers among them is a given for someone like Florian Papenbreer.
Lange Strasse 10, Lippstadt/Germany, https://neumann-conceptstore.de
Owner: Florian Papenbreer, Sales area: 120 sqm, Opening: March 2023
Brands Men‘s Fashion: Belstaff, Blue de Gênes, Colorful Standard, Fred Perry, Hartford, Libertine Libertine, Mads Nørgaard, Mos Mosh a. o.
Brand Accessories: Ridley Games, Bags, The Mallows, Whiskey Rocks
Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Kauri Store Fairness, sustainability and a respectful treatment of the environment characterize the products in the range of South Tyrolean Kauri Stores. Now Daniel Tocca and Bernhard Schönhuber are expanding to Germany, their sixth store has now opened in Munich. With their stores, the founders convey awareness for responsible consumption that should conserves the planet’s resources and also leave a livable world for future generations. There are already a total of five stores in Bolzano, Bressanone, Merano and the nature & spa hotel Forestis. True to the slow fashion principle of Buy Less Buy Better, the range includes fashion for women and men, organic clothing for babies and children, as well as natural cosmetics and care products, and home and lifestyle accessories. “Our goal is to open a chain of stores that will make it easier for people to shop sustainably. We want to do that mainly in city centers, which are already overrun by fast-fashion chains, to offer an alternative in the same spot,” Tocca explains, adding, “We chose Munich because it’s close to South Tyrol. A lot of our customers already come from Munich, and sustainable shopping is becoming more and more important here. So we think there’s a need for a concept like this between all the chains in the center.”
Sendlinger Strasse 35, Munich/Germany, www.kauristore.com
Brands: A Beautiful Story, Adam, Another Brand, Asportuguesas, Atelier Alpiniste, Dedicated, Ecoalf, Freitag, Nikin, Re-Bello, Stapf, Veja, Womsh, Xacus and others.
As I’ve explained before, almost all important questions can be answered either with Bob Dylan quotes or football allegories.
Does a team like Manchester City really need a coach, or even an outstanding coach, to unleash all its brilliance? So many world-class players, so much talent, so much creativityand then a coach has to scribble on tactics boards and whistle on two fingers?
Or, for the many fine minds among our readers: Does the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra really need someone waving a stick in front of them at the New Year’s Concert?
Now I’m really no expert on the latter, but that’s probably why I sometimes find it so fascinating to experience or hear how crucial the interplay of the various components is. The conductor, who manifests their own idea of the music being played, the acoustics of the concert hall, the string ensemble’s shape on the day - in the end, it’s always about more than just the sum of the individual parts. It is about a common idea to which all contribute their specific and, in each case, indispensable part. No matter whether it’s the Champions League final, the New Year’s concert or a fashion trade show.
For at least four editions, Premium and Seek will be able to return to their old and oh so wonderful venue in Berlin. Home game at the Station! Wisely compressed into two intense days. A window of opportunity, because the right location is of crucial importance. We all know that. Logistically as well as emotionally. But it is only one important component. If a format is to be created in Berlin that can lead the idea of a trade fair into the future as a marketplace of ideas and as a meeting place for the intelligence of an industry at eye level, then, to use the metaphor, the conductor and the concert hall
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Stephan Huber
will not be able to do it alone. Ultimately, the question is a very simple one: do we want it, and do we need it? Incidentally, it is perfectly legitimate to answer this question in the negative.
My answer, however, is different. In a time characterized by radical changes, innovations and challenges, we need personal exchange more than ever. Networking, inspiration, communication, friction, fun (not to forget about that!), these are all foundations for the further development of our industry and our businesses. A cleverly curated trade fair with exciting content can be a platform for this. But only if the interaction works. Of everyone. Only if there is a common idea and this idea is allowed to develop. Because the trade fair “as we know it” is a thing of the past. And we want to move towards the future!
Finally: at ManCity also, nothing and nobody works without money, certainly no KdB or Haaland. How EFKATF (events formerly known as trade fairs) will be financed in this future, that will be an exciting discussion to come.
Best regards, Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com
Editors-in-Chief Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com
Martina Müllner martina@style-in-progress.com
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Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@style-in-progress.com
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Nicoletta Schaper
Kay Alexander Plonka
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Veronika Zangl
Georgmaria Prock
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Manfred Thurner
Georgmaria Prock
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Next Issue 10th of January 2024
