8 minute read
We Still Have Enormous Potential
Ulli Ehrlich represents the second generation at the helm of Sportalm Kitzbühel.
Are one’s own roots really always a blessing? The Sportalm Kitzbühel brand has its roots in the traditional costume and skiwear segments, yet it still successfully established itself as an international fashion house. MD Ulli Ehrlich and Stephan Huber, the Editor-in-Chief of style in progress, took the company’s 65th anniversary as an opportunity to talk about achievements, future goals, and what it takes to run a business as a woman and a mother of five. Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Volksbank Tirol/Berger, Sportalm
15 years ago, you started establishing Sportalm Kitzbühel as a fashion brand outside the limiting boundaries of tra ditional costumes and skiwear. Was the decision born out of necessity?
Ulli Ehrlich, MD of Sportalm Kitzbühel: Taking such a courageous step was rather born out of an intuitive instinct in combination with the necessary impartiality. If we had thought about it more carefully and commissioned marketing studies, we probably would have decided against such a move and would never have come as far as we have. Naturally, we are very pleased that we have succeeded in bringing a unique style to the world.
How does a comparatively small family business manage to do this?
Our great strength is our sense of values. Our own production facility allows us to manufacture in Europe and to stand for sustainability. Consumers are becoming ever more sensitive in that respect. That gives us the requisite know-how for the future.
Are your brand’s roots in the traditional costume and skiwear segments a hurdle, especially as a brand based in Kitzbühel?
It can be a hurdle if the origin implies that our fashion is all about boiled wool and loden. Initially, that was only a hurdle in the German-speaking markets. Today, we stand for a unique design language. We only know how to be Sportalm and we don’t desire to be anything else. We cannot deny our DNA, especially as skiwear and traditional costumes still account for 30 percent and 10 percent of our sales respectively. Our strongest foothold is the fashion that is successful on an international level. In the Czech Republic, for instance, we were immediately perceived as a cool brand without being reduced to the traditional costume topic.
What benefits the brand in the long run is the general trend towards sportiness and functionality.
Our know-how allows us to combine fashion and function authentically. Other fashion brands find that difficult or even impossible to achieve. It goes without saying that a Sportalm parka needs to endure wind, rain, and snow. During a training session in our showroom, one of the attending sales assistants argued that the down jacket by brand XY is much softer. I explained that it’s softer because it lacks functionality. As soon as you upgrade nylon technologically, it gains stiffness. He understood that immediately; it was a real eye-opener for him.
Was the path to success beset with challenges?
We struggled with the economic difficulties in the Russian market. After all, that market is especially important to us. At the same time, we lost a major retail customer when Sport Eybl filed for insolvency in 2014. We need to thank my father Wilhelm Ehrlich and his conservative financial policy for the fact that these two events didn’t endanger the existence of Sportalm. We then scrutinised all our costs, analysed our markets, and - of course - optimised our collection. That brought us back on track.
What are your self-declared goals?
We still have enormous potential, both in existing markets and in future ones. My vi-
sion is to establish Sportalm Kitzbühel as a lifestyle brand. Although the term may be a little trite, I don’t know of a better one. And I am utterly convinced that we have what it takes. Our heritage and our roots in Kitzbühel, which embodies sportiness and tradition with a touch of glamour, lend the brand the emotion it needs to be successful - be it in China, where we are in the process of launching our skiwear, or in our core markets, where we intend to grow hand-in-hand with our retail partners.
Even in our female-dominated indust- ry, women in leading positions remain a rarity. Aren’t women predestined to empathise with the respective target groups?
It is true that it isn’t logical for men to run businesses that are primarily about women. But being a woman in a leading position is also not exactly family-friend- ly. As an entrepreneur, I have the luxury of knowing that my five children are taken care of and I enjoy the backing of my family. In addition, I can make my own schedule. I want to be able to attend school plays and ski races. I want to be able to pick up my son when the school calls telling me that he isn’t feeling well. I wouldn’t enjoy such flexibility if I was an employee. Frankly, I don’t know how I would feel about having an employee like me with five children. I have all the more respect for single mothers who are forced to handle everything alone!
So achieving equal rights in our indus- try is thwarted by the proverbial glass ceiling?
I believe so. It may be possible for com- panies like Google to provide childcare to women, but we, as a fashion company, simply can’t afford it, especially as we don’t have the profit margins of a technology company. Apart from children, women still stand in their own way too often. Men cry “Me!” and literally pound their chests. Women, on the other hand, whisper “We!” and are too modest to emphasise their own performance. I catch myself doing that too! Success requires entrepreneurship and a willingness to take risks, no matter whether you’re a man or a woman. Fortune favours the capable. And you need this fortune to nurture the seed that was sown.
Today, Sportalm stands - above all - for fashion, yet without ever denying its roots in the traditional cos- tume and skiwear segments.
Luxury-contemporary: the two Plein Sud lines have been merged into one. The collection now offers a broader spectrum of clothing, ranging from casual wear to evening robes. Line extensions such as jewellery, footwear, and – a little later – handbags complement the range.
Plein Sud. 1 + 1 = A+
Following the takeover by Italy-based MMB Group, Plein Sud has been tasked with accelerating its development plan under new management and with considerable financial support from its new owner. The brand’s two lines were merged into one in an attempt to strengthen the label as a whole. style in progress met with CEO Gaetano Sallorenzo to talk about his plans to reposition Plein Sud in the luxury-contemporary segment. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photo: Plein Sud
The phone call didn’t come as a surprise. Gaetano Sallorenzo has extensive international management experience due to his previous positions at brands such as Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, Replay, Stuart Weitzmann, and – most recently – Giambattista Valli. It’s only natural that the financial backers of MMB Group, who are all from the fashion industry, would have such a highflier on their radar. “Plein Sud captivated me immediately. The brand has an exceptional history. The brand perception has never suffered, even in difficult times. It has a loyal fan base, both among exceptional retailers and consumers. I am really looking forward to taking advantage of this potential and building upon it.” The first strategic step may seem a tad drastic: the two lines Plein Sud and Plein Sud Jeanius have been merged. “We are now integrating various aspects of the wardrobe into one strong brand. The approximately 180-piece collection now offers a broader spectrum of fashion, ranging from casual jeans and sweatshirt outfits to evening robes. This reflects the way modern women dress. They love combining pieces. The market is certainly changing significantly.” Sallorenzo stresses that the price is not the decisive factor for a luxury-contemporary brand. “It’s always about the product and its intrinsic value. Women understand the value of the goods they purchase as long as the quality appeals to them.” To ensure said quality, production in Italy is essential: “We cooperate with small manufactories; they are true artists. The fact that our design, marketing, and product teams are able to work with those craftsmen on-location creates the innovation that is so crucial for success. However, innovation is always based on the product and a result of dialogue. Is it possible to wash this beautiful leather jacket one more time to make it more modern? As soon as the next day, one receives a prototype that boasts all the special features ingrained in Plein Sud’s DNA.”
Old Strength – New Strength The brand feels impressively modern due to its strong and feminine – yet never cutesy – look. Remaining relevant for 32 years is an achievement for which founder Fayçal Amor deserves massive respect. “This heritage is now complemented by a new structure, young talent, and fresh energy,” Sallorenzo says. “We have embarked on a journey to become a lifestyle brand. This season, we have added a jewellery collection. In autumn, we will add a footwear range and a little later a handbag line.” In terms of distribution, the brand has opted for a restrained approach. “Right now, our goals aren’t numbers-driven. It is not our aim to double the number of 150 worldwide retail partners we serve today. Our investors also have long-term plans for the brand. Naturally, we are always happy to grow, but we want to grow in a sensible and correct way.” ACO Modeagentur is Plein Sud’s representative in Germany and Austria. “We perceive Michael Schulz, the MD of ACO Modeagentur, as someone who we can trust completely in terms of our realignment plan,” Sallorenzo gushes. Plein Sud has teamed up with equally established partners in Ianiz Coriza and Fashion Club 70 in Switzerland and Belgium respectively. While the collection is currently on display in the showrooms, Plein Sud will thrust highlights into the limelight of the Fashion Week catwalks in Paris and Milan in September. “This is yet another part of our DNA and will evolve over time,” Sallorenzo says with joyful anticipation.
