Form Follows Function

Windproof, water-repellent, breathable - Urban High Tech Sportswear is defined by the commitment to an active lifestyle, as well as the desire for clean silhouettes and simple designs. Functional properties are a welcome - and expected - side effect.

Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Producers, Cathleen Wolf for style proofed.com Walking, running, or biking - sport mirrors what the modern consumer would like to be perceived as. An outfit that is visibly sporty underlines the message. Today, one can spot young men in Helly Hansen offshore sailing jackets in Hamburg’s city centre or in hard and soft shell jackets worthy of an alpinist in the centre of Berlin. Sportswear has already made inroads into the everyday life on our streets. Fashion arrogance is a thing of the past, meaning that one is now allowed to appear at the office or to dinner in sneakers and functional jackets. This means sportswear has been transformed into everyday clothing. However, this new normality has its peaks and spikes; to an extent that one may be tempted to speak of a real trend. They are seemingly everywhere, those Nike Air Max Girls. The term was coined for women and girls who helped the fashionable running shoe of the 80s to stage such a brilliant comeback. Even ultra-light running shoes with a very competitive look are now used on an everyday basis, mostly because their modern look complements current outfits so well. “The boom regarding so-called flat-race models with an extremely breathable upper layer, which come from the 10,000 metre performance segment and weigh less than 150 grams due to carbon inlays in the sole, was initially a trend in London a few years ago”, says Carlos Alvarez, the New Balance product and key account manager for Switzerland and Austria at Chris Sports. “After lifestyle accounts started ordering the performance shoes, New Balance introduced the Blue Tab collection last autumn. In these models, the technical features come in fashionable colour combinations or tones such as black, dark blue, and dark red. It is not a peak topic just yet, but customers such as Titolo and Sportslab have already added this new range to their sales floors.” It’s quite possible to be mentioned in a fashion blog while wearing marathon shoes. Is this merely a media phenomenon or soon a trend for the masses? Carlos Alvarez: “It is important to us to remain true to our philosophy of serving the lifestyle and performance segments separately from each other in order to avoid losing consumer credibility. One has to be very careful in this respect. It makes little sense to sell professional running footwear in the lifestyle segment because the higher abrasion factor means that they cannot meet the demands of everyday life.”

Sneakers on the Catwalk

The emperor himself gave this type of shoe his blessing. Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld even sent his haute couture models onto the catwalk in sneakers and Caroline of Monaco, one of his most loyal customers, was spotted in Chanel sneakers at the annual Rose Ball shortly afterwards. The supportive crutches made necessary by a recent knee operation did, however, suggest that it was more than just a fashion statement. “The trend of sneakers on the catwalk will fade again next season”, says Julia Freitag, a publicist and stylist at www. styleproofed.com. “The look that combined sneakers and evening dress is a zeitgeist phenomenon that emanates from everyday life. I believe it is an expression of Americanisation and naturally also a tribute to modern youth culture. Anyone who wants to appear young, hip, and creative, wears sneakers! And they even wear them in the evening now.” Unlike in the 1990s, the look has now established itself. “Wearing sneakers on the red carpet or with an evening robe is a clear anti-establishment statement. Hey, look at me! I am true to myself and I refuse to dress up for any gala. Pharrell Williams is a prime example for this kind of approach. He is a symbol of youth culture and wants to remain true to his own identity. I tested the trend of combining evening dresses and sneakers for my online magazine and I found it good and feasible as long as one adheres to a few styling rules”, Julia Freitag explains. Combining the comfort of sneakers with as much style and prestige as possible certainly works. More and more high fashion and premium sportswear suppliers focus on sport/ lifestyle products. One example is Adidas, which now creates collections in collaboration with renowned designers. mytheresa. com, which is arguably Germany’s best known online store for high fashion, has even listed other sportswear lines alongside Adidas by Stella McCartney, Adidas by Ralf Simons, and Adidas by Opening Ceremony. “Y3 is the large new sports label that we added to our portfolio for autumn/winter 2014/15. We are thrilled to be able to offer the brand online, despite its strictly limited distribution policy. We will also add Adidas’ Rick Owens sneakers to our range and expand it by adding Adidas collection by Mary Katrantzou for spring/ summer 2015”, says Justin O’Shea, the buying director at mytheresa.com, and adds: “Regarding the brands we already stock, we once again broadened our order for autumn/winter

Julia Freitag, a publisher and stylist at www.styleproofed. com, tested wearing the ultra-lightweight sneaker ZX Flux by Adidas with evening wear on herself.

For the next season, Justin O’Shea, the buying director of mytheresa.com, is focusing on luxury lounge wear by renowned designers such as Adidas’ high-end sneakers designed by Rick Owens.

2014/15 and summer/spring 2015 to cover the increasing demand of our global clientele. My approach in terms of sports brands in the luxury fashion segment is nevertheless quite cautious. Our focus remains on the hottest runway and key pieces by international designers.”

Luxury Lounge Wear Trend

Even the catwalks of this world adorn themselves with symbols of sportsmanship these days. Tapered training trousers, jerseys with large printed player numbers, tight-fighting cycling shorts, and cyclist jersey replicas are but a few examples. “The athletification is in full swing! After the elitist high-couture fashion in recent years, a certain nonchalance and sporty attitude is quite appropriate. However, you don’t want to be seen in old Nike training trousers, but you want to buy a cashmere version by your favourite designer instead”, says Julia Freitag. Justin O’Shea sees enormous future potential in this segment: “For the coming seasons, one could observe clear trend towards luxury lounge wear. The knitted twin sets we have seen on the catwalks of Marc Jacobs, Haider Ackermann, Céline, and Isabel Marant will definitely sell successfully.” While the large numbers of lifestyle and designer sneakers are still made up by silhouettes from the 70s/80s/90s running, basketball, tennis, and skateboard segments, the designs in the premium range are becoming more technical and modern without drawing optical inspiration from the past. The same applies to jackets and tops. While baseball jackets and oversized sweatshirts on the street still reflect the style of the late 1980s, the catwalks are already turning to the 1990s for inspiration. “Simplicity, masculinity, and the influence of the American pop culture from the 80s and 90s are the elements that connect sportswear with the aesthetics of modern fashion. There is a difference between functional sportswear and women’s fashion. In this case it’s more about the look than functionality. In men’s fashion there is definitely a more noticeable trend towards functional sportswear”, Justin O’Shea says. And one needs a sure instinct to implement this look in an aesthetic manner. “Naturally, the high-fashion items are the most important factor, while sportswear merely complements the look skilfully. Personally, I would always opt for sportswear with subtle colours and cuts to ensure that a certain timelessness and elegance is retained. Nylon jackets work nicely with elegant dresses, as do cycling shorts with cool oversized blazers. It’s important to have the right mixture”, Julia Freitag explains.

Urban Sportswear and HighTech Outerwear with Clean Silhouettes

“We sell premium basics and technical design classics for men from the sportswear and outerwear segments; they are refined by designers and their labelling or stylistic cross-over gives them their specific USP”, explains Jörg Haas from Berlin-based menswear store Firmament. The customers of Firmament have a high affinity for design, fashion, and art, as well as a feeling for the exclusivity and quality of a product range. In addition to selective lines by Adidas, Nike, and New Balance, the store also stocks, for example, jackets and bags by Acronym from

Germany, which are manufactured using high-end functional Gore-Tex or Schoeller materials in combination with fastening mechanisms from the military sector. The retail prices for these items start at 300 Euros. Selectively distributed jackets, blazers, and tops from the Shadow line by the Italian brand Stone Island and the Canadian outdoor label Arcteryx are also part of the product range. “These high-end outdoor brands appeal to consumers who have more sophisticated standards, a distinct style understanding, and sufficient funds. The distribution is currently based on a pyramid system. Initially, only small top boutiques are supplied with items. However, I do believe that these lines will be available to the broader market and/or via own retail stores in a few years time.”

The skiwear specialist Mountain Force also aims to significantly strengthen its position in the fashion segment and is already working on a corresponding range. “When I took over Mountain Force towards the end of 2010, I was quite aware of the fact that the skiwear market will continue to change. This is why we consciously re-positioned Mountain Force as a premium lifestyle brand. Strategic partnerships with the likes of Porsche Austria, the outfitting of ORF’s sport commentators, and celebrity chef Johann Lafer as our testimonial emphasise the luxury appeal of our clothing and we are thrilled that our products are not only popular on the ski slopes, but also in urban areas. The main profiteers of the trend towards more technology in fashion are our urban partners, who now supply a clientele which values ultra-light down jackets, shell jackets, and coats without a great affinity for skiing. To take this development into account, we are in the process of expanding our range of technical all-round clothing and will offer significantly more items targeted at fashionable urban customers during our next winter order period”, says Roman Stepek, the chief executive of Mountain Force, while explaining his company’s future strategy. Jil Sander and Miuccia Prada, who were the first to make the athletic look socially acceptable with designer sneakers and nylon rucksacks, found innovative imitators among designers who committed themselves to the further development of fashion and clothing in general without newly interpreting the looks of bygone eras. Wearing fashionable clothing made of more innovative functional materials is now not merely a commitment to cherished wearability properties, but also a clear signal that the wearer is open to technical innovations.

The style itself is the figurehead. The Firmament customers of Jörg Haas are not eager to stand out because of a logo, but because of the product itself. One example is the high-tech urban outerwear by Acronym.

Carlos Alvarez, the New Balance product and key account manager for Switzerland and

Austria, promotes the Blue Tab collection, which consists of ultra-light flat racers for everyday use.

Roman Stepek, the chief execu- tive of Mountain Force, is in the process of ex- panding the tech- nical all-round clothing range for fashionable urban individuals.

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Photos: Bernhard Musil www.b-musil.com Art direction & production: Mody Al Khufash www.jlffstudio.com Hair/Make-up: Kristin Belger Model: Jens Langenfurth @ Kult Model Agency Production assistance: William Schlesinger

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Backpack: Côte & Ciel Jacket: Peuterey Shirt: Nike x Gyakusou Trousers: Closed Socks: Falke Shoes: Asics

Backpack: Côte & Ciel Jacket: C.P. Company Windbreaker: Patagonia Trousers: Replay

MODE 099 Earphones: Coloud Jacket: Minimum Backpack: Dakine Trousers: Sand

Visual Marketing New Focus on Shop Windows

Many store owners have realised that well-designed shop windows attract attention and can serve to differentiate their business from the competition. The possibilities of visual marketing expand constantly. Let us illustrate how.

Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Galeries Lafayette, Kent Miller Studios for Macy’s, Millington Associates, Prop Studios, Sonja Greimel, Studio XAG Shop windows have regained importance of late and their designers are moving with the times. One of the major future trends is the integration of technology. After all, stores have to deal with competition on all fronts ranging from websites to smart phones. During both online and window shopping, the only thing between the customers and their next It-bag is a screen. Behind a shop window one can create whole worlds in 3D and can extend them into the sales areas. This is a benefit of which more and more stores are taking advantage of. According to the 2014+ shop fitting monitor of the EHI Retail Institute in Cologne, the expenditures for decoration elements increased significantly last year. Among the specialised retailers, retail chains, and department stores interviewed by EHI on behalf of Messe Frankfurt for a study titled “Success Factor Shop Window” one target in respect to visual marketing is paramount: differentiation from competitors. In other words, everyone wants to be better than the competition, even before the customer has entered the store. This is also reflected by how many stores now use their shop windows to boost their reputation. Just think about how many large department stores have built an image for having opulent Christmas decorations. Galeries Lafayette and Macy’s demonstrate how it’s done. Perfectly crafted shop windows have the potential to become integral parts of city tours. However, such an achievement needs to be earned by hard work and one needs surprise effects to draw passers-by out of their daily routines. Monochrome, colour block, or a contrasting colour with a signal effect? Styling issues are mirrored in shop windows. Unlike on the human body, fashion can be staged in a completely different manner in a shop window. For example, fashion can be displayed without any mannequins at all, but with words, bizarre props, or even architectural structures designed for a single showpiece. Elsewhere one can find high-tech effects behind the glass. We can see glowing LEDs, watch movies, or even marvel at a decoration choreographed by a computer – not to mention the possibilities of hash tags, QR codes, and motion sensors. Shop windows can be transformed into a unique spectacle, which explains why the battle for attention has reached a whole new level. We would like to highlight eight examples from London, New York, Paris, Berlin, and Munich.

Co-operation with the Art World. Selfridges/Prop Studios, London The department store Selfridges in London celebrates a V&A Museum exhibition dedicated to David Bowie with a pop-up shop and specially designed shop windows. The design professionals at Prop Studios created their own technological art pieces based on the shoes worn on stage by the eccen tric artist for this occasion. The famous Ziggy Stardust boots in a minimalistic interpretation made of laser cut acrylic are displayed on floating mirrored steps.

The Monochrome Drama of Architecture. Galeries Lafayette, Paris When department stores started to design shop windows at the beginning of the 20th century, they often filled them to the brim with products. This approach is no longer commonplace. In the 21st century it is still common to fill the window, but only to set the stage for a single product. The shop window experts of Galeries Lafayette create the impression of architecture with countless bands to showcase the dress like an icon in a grotto-like space in the middle - all in pure white.

Fashion in Action. Moncler/Selfridges/Millington Associates, London Unlike photos in web stores, shop windows can show how fashion can be worn and how it fits into everyday life in 3D. In collaboration with Moncler and Selfridges, the designers at Millington Associates illustrate how skiing fashion looks on the ski lift. Cleverly used LED technology makes the items literally stand out.

New Task for Packaging. Stan Smith & Adidas Originals/Studio XAG, Berlin To use everyday objects for new purposes is not only a trend on the Pinterest boards of DIY enthusiasts. A shop window campaign for Adidas Orig inals’ collaboration with Stan Smith inspired the creative heads at Studio XAG to play with the shoe boxes. They combine the famous three stripes with the name of the tennis professional in a sports ground-like neon colour; it is placed between stacks of shoe cartons and provided with a hash tag. Note: If you want to surprise onlookers with your shop window, it makes sense to think outside the box once in a while.

Scissors and Wordplays.

Stella McCartney/Millington Associates, London “Kids are cool!” - That’s the statement Millington Associates make in this Stella McCartney store. They don’t only say it with words, but also with the surrounding figures. Bunnies and deer are not portrayed in an overly cute manner, but are grown-up design elements that also act as rather unusual clothes rails. The “shape cutting” game also regularly appears in the shop windows in all sorts of variations. A cheap - albeit laborious - way to play the game is with paper.

Pulling an Idea Out of the Bag.

Anya Hindmarch/Prop Studios, London Based on the product, Prop Studios developed an idea for Anya Hindmarch that emanates from the shop window and spreads into the store itself. The visual merchandising specialists take up the domino motif of the “Cascade” bag collection in the shop window by placing dominos that seemingly beg to be knocked over to trigger a cascade. In a video to accompany the campaign they actually do just that, to a stylised Christmas tree made of green dominos. Video link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOiMulq7InQ

Contrast Passing Through. Boss/Porsche/Eurotrade Airport Munich/Sonja Greimel, Munich Several studies indicate that pedestrians in large cities are walking faster than ever, which means that shop windows have to attract attention faster too. Stores located on busy traffic hubs have been aware of this for quite some time. At Munich Airport the visual merchandising of the normally rather clear Boss shop window utilises the signal colour yellow to create an eye-catcher for people who are always in a hurry.

Technological Stories Instead of Products. Macy’s/Paul Olszewski, New York The giant New York-based department store Macy’s marks the festive season by telling its own homely Christmas story in a string of shop windows. However, nostalgia does have its limits. Award winning shop window designer Paul Olszewski only recently created a product-free wintery fantasy journey by utilising the wondrous world of modern interactive technology. The installation allows you to trigger glittering stars and snowfall by moving your arms vigorously while LED lights mirror the silhouettes of onlookers .