From Handkerchiefs to Lingerie Empire

Hanky Panky . Germany, Italy and Great Britain are currently the most important European destinations for Hanky Panky. The lingerie brand from the USA will only ever be sold overseas, not manufactured overseas.

Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Hanky Panky

“Boyshorts” are the must have item in Germany. We’re not talking about denim, but delicate lace. These “Boyshorts” are from the lingerie collection of Hanky Panky, the self-professed manufacturer of the most comfortable thongs in the world. These Americans! Anno Tobak had to ship authentic Parisian styles to American railway magnates and oil barons and their wives if she wanted to get anywhere. The newest fashions are dictated by Europe. But America has fought back with inventiveness: In “Gone with the Wind“, Scarlett O’Hara blazes her way out of fashion misery in a green drape, and the (real!) New Yorker Mary Phelps Jacob freed

herself from her uncomfortable corset in 1914 – with the help of silk handkerchiefs – when she invented the bra. Embroidered handkerchiefs, not silk, fell into Gale Epstein’s hands when she wanted to create handmade underwear as a present for a girlfriend. The innovative New Yorker founded Hanky Panky in 1977 (hanky being short for handkerchief, and “hanky panky“ means, among other things, “a roll in the hay”). A lot has happened in the lingerie market since then: “Certainly the exodus of apparel manufacturing and its supporting industries from these shores was the biggest change and it affected us with the scarcity of local resources”, says Epstein. Hanky Panky has manufactured exclusively in the USA from the very beginning, and continues to do so. Magazines such as Vogue call the marketing department of the Manhattan based international fashion brand to order delicate camisoles for a photo shoot. Several sewing machines chatter away just around the corner of the desk where the phone rings.

Domestic

Production for

Better Quality

“There was never any question of outsourcing”, says Epstein. Epstein is proud of supporting the local economy and having firsthand knowledge of the local working conditions. A fast turnover also counts among

Hanky Panky is proud of the label “Made in USA“. The delicate fabric of this underwear is stitched by the sewing machines of New York.

the advantages, and keeping production close to hand means the best quality can be guaranteed. The designer is eyeing white lace. A sample is being cut from lace ribbons which are stored in a shelf in all the colours of the rainbow, not far from her desk. Lace camisoles and panties in vivid tones are already waiting up in the showroom. “The neon colors have been an exciting trend; very challenging for the dye houses but very appreciated by the customers.” says Epstein. Partners from the world of women’s outerwear are also drawn to Hanky Panky. This year Hanky Panky entered a co-operation with Gwen Stefani’s label LAMB, Lilly Pulitzer is due to follow in 2015. In the meantime, Gale Epstein reveals her personal tip for a kinky fashion statement, which she says many of her customers follow. “It may be our secret“, she says “but the satisfaction we get from knowing that our thong or panty matches, say, the turquoise ring or the red scarf, sets the balance for the day.”

www.hankypanky.com

Rejuvenating Treatment

Pomad ère . Today, it does not go without saying that children choose a profession that their parents already have a passion for. However, Pomandère’s Carlo Zanuso never had any doubt.

Text: Dörte Welti. Photos: Pomadère

In 2008, when the young Carlo Zanuso founded Pomandère, his very first own fashion line for women, it was the logical consequence of everything he experienced on a daily basis as a child and teenager. “My parents managed a shirt manufacturing business for more than 30 years. I always observed what they did with great curiosity”, he says. As a result, the boy from Zané in Vicenza did not only learn how to “make” fashion, but also why it is so important to do it in exactly that manner. “I was trained in tailoring everything as simply as possible, which is part of the Italian tradition and culture.” However, Carlo Zanuso broke with tradition to a certain extent. He expanded the shirt genre by adding an entire collection and - driven by his very Italian passion for clothing - built a highly coherent fashion range. It was not enough for him to simply produce shirts for other brands; he wanted something that is his own, unique, and timeless.

Free from Trends and Constraints

“The characteristic feature of Pomandère is the chaste colour palette”, the designer explains. “We use natural fabrics and create a ‘homemade’ mood. Women purchase Pomandère items because they feel comfortable all the time, no matter whether on a normal day or for a special occasion.” This may explain why Pomandère doesn’t follow any trends or preset looks, but quite deliberately creates its own image. It wants the women to enjoy the freedom to showcase their individual look by combining different styles. Carlo Zanuso designs the fashion himself and actively takes part in the entire manufacturing process. He also has no problems with lending a

Carlo Zanuso likes refinement; his Pomandère collection honours the light heartedness of fashion.

helping hand at the last minute. He wants everything to be perfect. Only items that the boss can identify with 100% are allowed to leave the sewing room. From the summer season 2015 onwards, Pomandère will be distributed in Germany via the agency Room with a view. “We have an existing partnership with Room with a view in Austria and this collaboration has made us stronger every season. Seeing that it is such a great partnership, we decided to team up with them for the German market too.”

A Breezy Name

As elegant and simple the distinguished, androgynous, and feminine collection of Pomandère may be, it’s the name that is truly unusual. “Pomander” is actually a term for little scent bags that are placed in the wardrobe to ensure that the laundry retains its freshness. “That’s it, yes”, says Carlo Zanuso. “These light and airy linen bags - filled with dried flowers and traditionally also with lemon zest - refresh every wardrobe. That’s what I was thinking about when I came up with the name.”

Androgynous - oversized jackets and dresses that flow like shirts are a testament to Italian tailoring expertise. Zanuso srl, Zanè/Italy, T 0039.0445.360606, info@pomandere.it, www.pomandere.com