076 WHAT'S THE STORY
From Handkerchiefs to Lingerie Empire Hanky Panky. Germany, Italy and Great Britain are currently the most important European destinations for Hanky Panky. The lingerie brand from the USA will only ever be sold overseas, not manufactured overseas. Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Hanky Panky
“Boyshorts” are the must have item in Germany. We’re not talking about denim, but delicate lace. These “Boyshorts” are from the lingerie collection of Hanky Panky, the self-professed manufacturer of the most comfortable thongs in the world. These Americans! Anno Tobak had to ship authentic Parisian styles to American railway magnates and oil barons and their wives if she wanted to get anywhere. The newest fashions are dictated by Europe. But America has fought back with inventiveness: In “Gone with the Wind“, Scarlett O’Hara blazes her way out of fashion misery in a green drape, and the (real!) New Yorker Mary Phelps Jacob freed
herself from her uncomfortable corset in 1914 – with the help of silk handkerchiefs – when she invented the bra. Embroidered handkerchiefs, not silk, fell into Gale Epstein’s hands when she wanted to create handmade underwear as a present for a girlfriend. The innovative New Yorker founded Hanky Panky in 1977 (hanky being short for handkerchief, and “hanky panky“ means, among other things, “a roll in the hay”). A lot has happened in the lingerie market since then: “Certainly the exodus of apparel manufacturing and its supporting industries from these shores was the biggest change and it affected us with the scarcity of local resources”, says Epstein. Hanky Panky has manufactured exclusively in the USA from the very beginning, and continues to do so. Magazines such as Vogue call the marketing department of the Manhattan based international fashion brand to order delicate camisoles for a photo shoot. Several sewing machines chatter away just around the corner of the desk where the phone rings. Domestic Production for Better Quality
“There was never any question of outsourcing”, says Epstein. Epstein is proud of supporting the local economy and having firsthand knowledge of the local working conditions. A fast turnover also counts among
Hanky Panky is proud of the label “Made in USA“. The delicate fabric of this underwear is stitched by the sewing machines of New York.
the advantages, and keeping production close to hand means the best quality can be guaranteed. The designer is eyeing white lace. A sample is being cut from lace ribbons which are stored in a shelf in all the colours of the rainbow, not far from her desk. Lace camisoles and panties in vivid tones are already waiting up in the showroom. “The neon colors have been an exciting trend; very challenging for the dye houses but very appreciated by the customers.” says Epstein. Partners from the world of women’s outerwear are also drawn to Hanky Panky. This year Hanky Panky entered a co-operation with Gwen Stefani’s label LAMB, Lilly Pulitzer is due to follow in 2015. In the meantime, Gale Epstein reveals her personal tip for a kinky fashion statement, which she says many of her customers follow. “It may be our secret“, she says “but the satisfaction we get from knowing that our thong or panty matches, say, the turquoise ring or the red scarf, sets the balance for the day.”
www.hankypanky.com
Hanky Panky founder Gale Epstein makes a fashion statement every day with her choice of underwear – even if almost no-one gets to see it.
414 style in progress
