Meet the maker: bridal designer Karen Dornellie

Dresses and dreams

Meet the maker Karen Dornellie

By Tracy Curtis Pictures Timi Eross

Karen Robb’s exquisite sewing skills have provided her with many memorable experiences in life. A recently invaluable one was helping coordinate over 100 local sewers to produce 2,800 scrubs for healthcare workers during lockdown. Thankfully, things are now looking up, and she can return to her preferred environment of silks, lace and sparkle, using her creativity and years of experience to make the most beautiful dresses most women will ever wear.

Mastering the sewing machine from a young age, Karen went on to study fashion design at Croydon Art College, but it wasn’t until moving to the Island in 2000 that she began making a living from her passion. Landing a job as a high-end costume maker, she spent many years creating ornately detailed costumes for west end productions such as The Lion King, and films like

Pirates of the Caribbean 2.

In 2009, Karen started selling wedding veils online, while also running sewing classes. Her wedding business and reputation as a seamstress grew, and now, as bridal designer Karen Dornellie, she can create dream wedding dresses and accessories from her new

“Fashion isn’t known for being sustainable, but we can now get wedding fabrics made from bananas and oranges that feel just like silk.”

showroom and workshop, next to Isle of Wight Pearl. There’s an art to creating the perfect wedding dress, and it’s a huge responsibility. Karen says, “A wedding day is all about the bride, and any insecurities about her appearance will be magnified. By tailoring a dress, I can work with the customer to hide any parts they aren’t happy with, and make sure they’ll feel beautiful, comfortable and confident on their big day.” Karen loves helping customers make their wedding day dreams come to life. “If you want to look like a princess, this is the one day you can do it. The rulebook about what clothes suit which body shapes is rubbish, it’s all about getting the right proportions. The client will show me her ideas, and we work

together to bring all those aspects into one design. I start by sketching the silhouette. It’s important the shape’s not top-heavy, too big, that they’ll be comfortable, and to think about how it will feel on them. Then I work out what the mechanics will be to achieve this. Does it have net or a hoop? Should it be pleated or gathered? Will it have lace? Are we incorporating colour, or glitter? I get really excited about the details, a delicate fabric, a rose gold zip, it’s so different for every dress.” After making up a toile in cheaper fabric, the customer can try it on for Karen to refine the look and fit. Once all the materials are decided, Karen can work her magic to create the actual dress. With made to measure, her customers can get exactly what they want. “They control every aspect, from fabric costs, where a metre of lace can cost £10 or £400, to ethical considerations. Fashion isn’t known for being sustainable, but we can now get wedding fabrics made from bananas and oranges that feel just like silk.” Karen likes to promote sustainability in her fashion and bridal wear, and finds ways to create as little impact herself as possible. She’s now working with pattern cutter Sue Field on various packages to help customers make their own dream wedding dress. “I’ve designed five dresses, each made up in three types of fabric to show how the same pattern can be made to look very different. I can also order fabrics, provide accessories, and give support through the making on Zoom.” Karen is also continuing her sewing classes at the new site, where students bring in their own projects to make under her expert guidance. “It’s not really the mechanics of the sewing that’s hard, it’s having the confidence to go ahead and do it. If you just get to a point where you can

make something fit you, or recreate an item you loved wearing, it’s a really satisfying achievement. My classes are more than just learning to sew, there’s the social aspect. Sewing can be great therapy, but people get too busy for it in their daily lives. Classes give people a good reason to set time aside for it.” Karen is thrilled to welcome new clients to her beautifully designed new showroom, and excited for the future as the wedding world opens up again. “I just love making and creating, and want to continue with more of my own designs. I’m in an incredible location, and I’ll be working with Isle of Wight Pearl to offer consultation packages including lunch or afternoon tea here. I want to make sure that anyone who comes through the door will want to recommend me. I’ve always had good feedback, but I want my reputation to be second to none, with everyone leaving here happy.”

www.dornellie.com Instagram @karen_dornellie