6 minute read
Global food inspiration: a world
LOOK EAST
The sound of gently breaking waves and seagulls calling isn’t the soundtrack you’d expect for a venue that’s caused something of a local earthquake. However, chef and owner GC Giancovich has been breaking new ground ever since he first opened the now-infamous Smoking Lobster restaurant on Ventnor Esplanade back in 2017. Combining reimagined pan-Asian cuisine and using the best of Isle of Wight produce he’s developed a menu that’s really tough to choose from (unless that is, you order it all). Choices include whole bass baked in garlic and ginger, tempura squid with sweet chilli sauce and a dessert of pandan doughnuts with passion fruit and white chocolate curd.
Alongside a sister branch in Cowes, GC and sister Cinzia also launched the Island’s first izakaya bar in Ventnor’s Pier Street –The Drunken Lobster – a concept taken straight from the streets of Tokyo. Here a slimmed-down selection of tasty small plates complement wine, cocktails and a range of Japanese spirits - including sake, gin, vodka and Suntory blended whisky. If East Asian drinks are new territory for you, help is it at hand, as Cinzia can provide expert recommendations, returning from 15 years in London’s hospitality scene to take up the role of ‘sake sommelier’.
Smoking Lobster, Ventnor Beach Instagram @smokinglobsterventnor | 01983 855938 Smoking Lobster, Cowes Marina Instagram @smokinglobstercowes | 01983 240168 Drunken Lobster, Ventnor Town Instagram @drunkenlobsterbar smokinglobster.co.uk
MIDDLE EASTERN MEETS CENTRAL EUROPE
For Central European flavours, with a side of Middle Eastern spice, the perhaps unlikely setting of The Fishbourne Inn is certainly the place to go. Head chef Jarek Kozak has been making a name for himself in recent months, drawing on his Polish heritage and culinary expertise to wow local diners with dishes that include slow-braised cabbage leaves stuffed with venison, smoked pancetta and rice. What’s more, he also manages to seamlessly weave locally grown Isle of Wight ingredients into these standout signature dishes. His wonderfully rich and warming creations also include a number of notable North African plates that have quickly become firm favourites on The Fishbourne menu. Having previously worked in a Middle Eastern inspired restaurant in Brighton, he was trained in the intricate cooking techniques of this distinctive cuisine; mixing earthy spices and developing complex flavour combinations. Look out for Jarek’s Moroccan marinated lamb shank served with pomme purée and the pan-fried seabass with fresh chermoula sauce (think: spiced coriander pesto). Already a master of (at least) two international cuisines, it’s clear there’s still much more to come from this talented Polish chef.
The Fishbourne, Wootton Bridge | innsofdistinction.co.uk Instagram: @innsofdistinction | 01983 882823
ITALIAN INFLUENCES
Specialising in Northern Italian food, warm welcomes and unrivalled hospitality is Ristorante Michelangelo – something of a Ryde institution. For 21 years, Anna, Dante and Rosy have been offering diners a glimpse (and taste) of their extraordinary homeland cuisine, influenced by the nature, tradition and culture of the areas they grew up in. A small village in Emilia Romagna is where Anna called home, a region famous for Parma ham and Parmesan cheese. She still remembers seeing hundreds of hams hanging from the open windows of houses in her valley, slowly drying in the breeze from the Appennino hills. Twice a week she’d make pasta with her mum: tagliatelle, ravioli, tortelli or cappelletti – one version of which – the pumpkin and sheep’s cheese filled Tortelli di Zucca, can be sampled from the Michelangelo menu today. Another dish with a personal backstory is the Tagliatelle Rustiche which comes from friend Rosy, who joined Anna and Dante on their move to the Isle of Wight. A native of hilly Valdobbiadene – below the snow-capped Dolomite mountains, she brought influences from even further north, including this speciality of egg ribbon pasta combined with cream, mushroom, walnut and a local type of smoked ham called Speck.
Ristorante Michelangelo, Ryde ristorantemichelangelo.co.uk Facebook: @Michelangelo Restaurant IOW 01983 811966
FROM SICILY WITH LOVE
Following the scent of freshly ground coffee through the characterful and independent Node Hill neighbourhood of Newport brings you to Caffè Isola - a favoured spot for caffeine connoisseurs. Viviana, a familiar face in the open-plan kitchen, is a born and bred Sicilian, bringing with her a number of local specialities such as cannoli (a ricotta cheese filled pastry) and pasta di mandorla (a festive biscuit made with ground almond and lemon zest – it’s a family recipe too!) Links to the Mediterranean island remain strong, as each autumn the Burgess family returns to Viviana’s birthplace – San Michele di Ganzaria, a village to the southwest of Mount Etna – to help her family harvest their olives. This past year they gathered 2.5 tonnes of fresh olives which were turned into 260 litres of crystal-clear single press extra virgin olive oil, some of which made its way to Isola a few months ago. Whether you’re partial to an americano, cortado or even a chai tea latte, the cafe’s own-label Island Roasted coffee is also not to be missed. Setting the benchmark as unbeatable local experts, Dan has been refining the art of roasting and grinding coffee beans with his fleet of impressive machines since 2006.
Caffè Isola, Newport islandroasted.co.uk | Instagram @caffeisola 01983 524800
A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING YOU FANCY
If you’re looking for shelves and counters lined with the best of home and abroad, set coordinates for the ancient town of Yarmouth and its well-stocked, well-loved delicatessen. Here you can find Isle of Wight jam sitting comfortably alongside the likes of Italian pancetta, Provençale anchovies and even Icelandic-style skyr yoghurt (made on a farm in Suffolk!) Rolling up his sleeves and donning his whites is Kevin – a Head Chef with a sweet tooth and a background in classic French cooking. His training gave him a deep understanding of flavour combinations and how far-flung herbs and spices can help elevate and transform more Westerninspired dishes. Recent additions to the takeaway specials board have included chef’s stroganoff, goulash and frittata as well as a Hungarian spiced sausage slice – all of which are snapped up by local foodies before they’ve really had a chance to leave the kitchen.
Kevin also oversees Yarmouth Deli’s in-house patisserie (which is complemented by a select range from speciality baker Délice de France on his days off). Amongst his tarts, buns, cakes and pastries, we’d especially recommend the lamingtons – a sweet fought over by both Australia and New Zealand – made by covering buttery squares of sponge cake with rich melted chocolate and rolling in desiccated coconut.
Yarmouth Deli, The Square, Yarmouth yarmouthfoodlovers.co.uk Instagram @yarmouthfoodloversmarket 01983 652991