An Architectural Perspective on the
Funerary Ghats of
Varanasi Banaras Kaashi
Ar. Sukhmani Kaur
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CULTURAL STUDY Funerary Ghats of Varanasi
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Funerary ghats of Banaras
[Source : Wikipedia.com] [Fig:4.1] Varanasi (Banaras) in Uttar Pradesh, India
Why study Banaras? - To do a cultural study about the importance of cremation. - To understand how such large number of cremations are managed each day. - To understand the evolution of the ghats in architectural and social terms. - To see the sense of satisfaction among people to be cremated as per their desire.
About City Holding a strong significance historically and religiously, the city is well-settled and in peace with their environment.Traditional etymology links “Varanasi” to the names of two Ganges tributaries forming the city’s borders: Varuna, still flowing in northern Varanasi, and Assi, today a small stream in the southern part of the city, near Assi Ghat. The old city is located on the north shores of the Ganges, bounded by Varuna and Assi.
City Planning Banaras as a city is developed along the curve of the Ganga. Near the ghats, are the gullies holding the sense of direction, we move outwards in the city. The city opens up from the gullies. It is one beautiful city and one must visit in to know oneself.
History According to legend, Varanasi was founded by the god Shiva.There happened a fight between the two supreme gods, Brahma and Shiva, and the succeeding combat resulted in one of the five heads of Brahma being torn off by Shiva. It was a custom of the time that the victor carried the slain adversary’s head in his hand and let it hang down from his hand as an act of ignominy and a sign of his own bravery. A bridle was also put into the mouth. Shiva thus dishonored Brahma’s head, and kept it with him at all times. When he came to the city of Varanasi in this state, the hanging head of Brahma dropped from Shiva’s hand and disappeared in the ground. The land of Varanasi is therefore considered an extremely holy religious site. 4
Concept of Ghats The Ghats in Varanasi are world-renowned embankments made in steps of stone slabs along the river bank where pilgrims perform ritual ablutions. The ghats are an integral complement to the Hindu concept of divinity represented in physical, metaphysical, and supernatural elements. [106] Varanasi has at least 84 ghats, most of which are used for bathing by pilgrims and spiritually significant Hindu puja ceremony, while a few are used exclusively as Hindu cremation sites
Banks : Bathing/ rituals and waterways
Lower level: Usually in use for seating and vending
Walkway
Approach to the built
Built up
[Fig:5.1] Map of Ghats along Ganga [Source : Pg171, City Development Plan]
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Funerary ghats of Banaras: Harishchandra and Manikarnika ghats are the two funerary ghats alongside the river Ganga. These two ghats conduct 24*7 cremation where wood using cremation system is much more prominent. An electric crematorium was built on the Harishchandra ghat in the late 1980’s which is popularly known as the “gareebon ke liye” (For the poor) among the locals. Whereas on Manikarnika ghat, the cremations are done manually and there is no mechanism involved in any way. The character of both the funerary ghats is unique. Harishchandra ghat gives a little modern approach whereas ‘the Manikarnika ghat is of an old charm. Many tourists come to visit these two places and it definitely is a unique experience in
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Approach to the built
Built up
[Fig:6.1] On the funery ghats, many observers can be found. Many people of creative bend come to these ghats for inspiration. It is easy to spot writes, photographers, artists, architects and many. The character of space has Aan aura of calmness in between all its chaos.
During high water level, setup is shifted on the levels above.
During low water level, lower steps are also used.
itself. Bodies are brought to the ghats via both gullies and the river. Due around 300 bodies in a day, there were traffic problems resulting in a boat service fromt he last ghat - “Jal Seva Vahini”.
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Harishchandra Ghat Harish Chandra Ghat is one of the oldest Ghats of Varanasi,named after a mythological King Harish Chandra, who once worked at the cremation ground here for the perseverance of truth and charity. It is one of the two cremation Ghats (the other being Manikarnika Ghat) and is some times referred as Adi Manikarnika (the original creation ground). In Hindu mythology it is believed that if a person is cremated at the Harish Chandra Ghat, that person gets salvation or “moksha”. The Harish Chandra Ghat was somewhat modernized in late 1980’s, when an electric crematorium was opened here. [Source : Varanasicity.com]
Ash Disposal in the Ganga
Balcony and a temple
Recreational space used by Doms
Walkway
Stalls of chai and samagri
Stalls under framework Wood Stacks
Electric Crematorium
[Source : Author] [Fig:8.1] Cremation grounds of Harishchandra ghats
[Fig:8.2] [Source : Author] Sketch of a section
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[Fig:9.3] Pyre Setup
Ghats
Tower used for sitting/ observing/ drying of clothes
Buffer for Ash disposal
Wooden pyre on a tower
Wooden pyre setup and ash disposal
Ghats
Balcony and a temple
[Fig:9.2] Wood Stacks
[Fig:9.4] Laundry
Character of cremations As on this ghat, there are two options for cremation, the cost is also different. The cost of the traditional system can range from 5000-1lac rupees depending on the kind of wood and samagri used. Whereas the electric cremation will only cost up to 550 rupees.Hence it is known as �gareebon ke liye�. Samagri and wood are bought by the family members and cremation is done by the dom community members. Once the body is burnt fully, the ashes are put in the river. In the traditional wooden system it takes 5-6 hours whereas, in the electric cremation, 1-2 hours will burn the body fully. 9
Manikarnika Ghat
Banks : Bathing/ rituals and waterways
Lower level: Usually in use for seating and vending
Walkway
Approach to the built
Built up
During high water level, setup is shifted on the levels above.
During low water level, lower steps are also used.
Manikarnika Ghat is the main cremation Ghat of Varanasi. Manikarnika Ghat is one of the oldest and most sacred Ghats in Benaras. According to the Hindu mythology, being burned here provides an instant gateway to liberation from the cycle of births and rebirths. Lying at the center of the five tirthas, Manikarnika Ghat symbolizes both creation and destruction. At Manikarnika Ghat, the mortal remains are consigned to flames with the prayers that the souls rest in eternal peace. There is a sacred well at the Manikarnika Ghat, called the Manikarnika Kund. Manikarnika Kund is said to be dug by Lord Vishnu at the time of creation while the hot ashes of the burnt bodies makes one remember the inevitable destruction of everything in [Source : Varanasicity.com] the world.
Ash Disposal, Way for people to use waterways and boats used as wood storage
Second Level of cremation
First level of wood pyre setup: Managed by Dom Community and all the last rites are performed here, letting the ashes flow on the banks of the river.
[Fig:10.1] Cremation grounds of Manikarnika ghats, view from the boat. [Source: Author]
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[Fig:11.2] Chaos at Manikarnika
Wood pyre setup
Samagri Stralls/ processional route
Wood Stacks
Processional Route from the city streets
Multiple Activities : Recreation space for the dom community inside the old temple
Character of cremations
[Fig:11.1] Burning Pyres
[Fig:11.3] Jaabh Rites
The body is brought at the ghats along with family members and friends. It is handed over to the doms and the samagri is bought by the family ranging from 5000-1lac and the chief mourner gives it to the dom. They pray and do all the rituals as per their beliefs and then the body is burnt. It is handled by the doms and once the body is fully burnt, the ashes are put into the Ganga. One does not need to take the ashes anywhere to flow the ashes. After that, the chief mourner of the family, has to go through a jaabh where their hair is shaven as a way to pay respect to the departed soul. The entire process takes place on the ghats. 11
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