Blue Ridge Outdoors September 2023

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BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM SEPTEMBER 2023 FREE! + EXPLORING BIG SOUTH FORK + WISDOM ON THE WATER + THE LEGACY OF EARL SCRUGGS CYCLING ROUTES IN THE SOUTH MOUNTAIN BIKE RACING REVIVED Spin Your Wheels Colorful Fall Getaways SURVIVALIST ANTHONY COPPAGE

With miles of rural routes, gravel roads, paved trails, and scenic backdrops, cycling enthusiasts will love an excursion to Charlottesville and Albemarle County.

Plan your cycling adventure today.

Gear up for epic rides and mountains of color in Transylvania County this season.

D D BUL LW INKE L’ S

D.D. Bullwinkel ’s Outdoor & M oose

Tracks Foot ware is your local go to for gear, apparel & foot wear S er ving as WNC ’s destination for the outdoors for 29 years.

DDBUL LW I NKEL S. C O M

S Y LVANSPO R T

The simplicity of camping. The comfor t of home. Memories that last forever. Visit us in Brevard, NC or online to see our full line of award-winning campers, adventure trailers, and outdoor gear.

S Y LVAN S P O R T. CO M

ME R A K I ES C A P E

Enjoy this romantic mountain getaway and charming pet-friendly cabins with exceptional amenities and on-site activities with three water falls on premises.

ME R A KIES C A P E . CO M

explo re b reva r d .c o m | 8 0 0. 6 4 8.4 5 2 3

PRESIDENT BLAKE DEMASO blake@blueridgeoutdoors.com

EDITOR IN CHIEF JEDD FERRIS jedd@blueridgeoutdoors.com

PUBLISHER LEAH WOODY leah@blueridgeoutdoors.com

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER KATIE HARTWELL katie@blueridgeoutdoors.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR MELISSA KENNELLY m.kennelly@blueridgeoutdoors.com

EDITORIAL & PRODUCTION

SENIOR EDITOR WILL HARLAN will@blueridgeoutdoors.com

GEAR EDITOR DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN doug@elevationoutdoors.com

DESIGNER/ART MANAGER REBECCA CENCEWIZKI art@blueridgeoutdoors.com

2023 CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS

7 | ESSAY

Why I love my heavy bike.

8 | FIELD REPORT

THE OUT AND BACK

CONTRIBUTORS

DAVE STALLARD

63 |

LAUREN STEPP MARY BETH SKYLIS MIKE BEZEMEK

COPY EDITORS

JULIA GREEN, ROBERT MCGEE

ADVERTISING & BUSINESS

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE BUCK BRICE buck@blueridgeoutdoors.com

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE HANNAH COOPER hannah@blueridgeoutdoors.com

ADVERTISING CONTENT COORDINATOR AMANDA LIVERETTE amanda@blueridgeoutdoors.com

BUSINESS MANAGER MELISSA GESSLER melissa@blueridgeoutdoors.com

DIGITAL MEDIA

ONLINE DIRECTOR CRAIG SNODGRASS webdir@blueridgeoutdoors.com

CREATIVE CONTENT MANAGER SHANNON MCGOWAN shannon@blueridgeoutdoors.com

CIRCULATION INQUIRIES circulation@blueridgeoutdoors.com

66 |

FEATURES

13 | CYCLING TOURS

These routes around the South are easily accessed and require little planning.

22 | COLORFUL GETAWAYS

These artsy Blue Ridge towns showcase creativity and offer the perfect fall escapes.

BACK TO BIG SOUTH

FORK

977

CHARLOTTESVILLE,

NORTH CAROLINA

PHOTO COURTESY OF RIDE KANUGA

WATER

At 91, Pennsylvania paddling legend Dave Kutz is still teaching aspiring kayakers.

53 | CUP CHASERS

Meet the racers at the Commonwealth Cup, a Virginia mountain bike series with a tight community vibe.

BADASS

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51 | WISDOM ON THE
September
TRAIL MIX
Shelby is North Carolina’s new music town.
14
New tunes from MJ Lenderman and Chris Stapleton.
59 | BLUE RIDGE
10 AMANDA LUGENBELL/BLOWING ROCK TOURISM ON THE COVER ADVERTISING INQUIRIES advertise@blueridgeoutdoors.com
REFLECTIONS
A conversation with Naked and Afraid survivalist Anthony Coppage.
Learning a city's rhythm on two wheels.
31 |
An adventurer can’t stay away from this remote escape on the KentuckyTennessee line.
CYCLISTS RIDE ON A BEAUTIFUL ROLLING GRAVEL ROAD ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF RAPIDAN, VA. PHOTO BY BRYAN LEWIS @BRYANLEWIS13
61 |
Planning a family camping trip can be a logistical nightmare, but our columnist found the perfect place.
6 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS 304.264.8801 travelwv.com LIVE Your ADVENTURE Explore our trails twisting through miles of forests, and alongside rivers, making for a great weekend getaway. GoGastonNC.org/getaways THE TRAILS ARE WAITING

ODE TO THE BEAST

Why I love my heavy bike

MY OLD REI TOURING BIKE IS made of sturdy steel (chromoly if you’re into metallurgy) and weighs about 35 pounds with the rack, water bottles, bell, lights, etc. Strap on two packed panniers and we’re up to 55. That’s over twice the weight of one of those $4,000 carbon fiber bikes that our affluent brethren ride. When I hoist my bike up to the car’s roof rack, I grunt like Serena returning a hard shot, and sometimes feel a troubling twinge in my lower back. He’s bulky and brawny and black with weirdly curved moustache handlebars and I call him “The Beast.”

His tires are immensely wide as befits a big bike, like size 17 Nikes on an NBA forward. I sometimes imagine that, were I stronger and braver, I could pedal The Beast from Alaska to Tierra Del Fuego and encounter no mechanical problem worse that a slipped chain. He has never had a flat in five years of riding. If carbon fiber bikes were a comic book character, they’d be The Flash; my ride would be The Hulk. He’s my Conestoga wagon to their Pony Express, my Clydesdale to their Arabian. Indeed, his antique Brooks saddle gives him a certain equine feel. Unlike any horse, though, The Beast is indestructible and perhaps even immortal. He will certainly outlast me.

Monstrously heavy, he takes serious effort to pedal, especially uphill, even on very minor inclines. I take pride in those heart-pounding slogs, even as my girlfriend effortlessly zips past me, not a hint of sweat on her brow, astride a featherlight road bike. Sometimes little girls on sparkly Barbie-themed bikes with training wheels give me a run for my money. And recently I was handily passed by a cheerful teenager on a unicycle.

I’ve ridden The Beast on any

number of rail-trails. We’ve done the Great Allegheny Passage together, and the C&O canal many times, often on perfect spring days but we've also been thrashed by ugly downpours. We’ve been chased by farm dogs and buffeted by the slipstreams of semis. Through it all he has confidently rolled over ruts, pounded past puddles, mushed through mud and mire, and endured the grit and gravel in his gears, all without missing a step. This means all I ever have to do is hold onto those goofy handlebars and enjoy the scenery, unconcerned by almost anything in our path.

Being paired with The (admittedly plodding) Beast means I can’t take part in group rides, which honestly is just fine. Joining a group of middle-aged men in far-too-tight spandex for some passive-aggressive pack riding down the center line of the road is an experience I’m happy to forgo. In the time they bang out a century followed by a couple of IPAs, I will still be on my twowheeled equivalent of the Bataan Death March, happily puffing and wheezing like a freight train going through the Rockies.

If it’s not obvious yet, let me state plainly that The Beast is much more than just a simple conveyance; he’s my alter ego. His reliable fortitude, endless stamina, and uncomplaining nature are all traits I deeply admire. He’s as stoic as Russell Crowe’s Gladiator and as unstoppable as DiCaprio’s Revenant. Now, you may well be thinking to yourself, does this guy not understand that his passion, his ardor, for an inanimate object is by definition unrequited? Maybe, but I’m not willing to concede that point, not just yet. After all, you can’t spell love without velo.

SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 7 ESSAY
WORTH THE WEIGHT
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

NORTH CAROLINA’S NEW MUSIC TOWN

Anchored by the Earl Scruggs Center, Shelby is Becoming a Must-Visit Destination for Bluegrass and Country Fans

AT THE

CENTER OF

SHELBY, N.C., there is music. Drive into uptown and you can’t miss the regal, columnlined Earl Scruggs Center, which sits on an oak-covered plot that takes up the whole block at the town’s center. It’s not a typical layout for a growing town of around 20,000, but it makes sense for Shelby, where music has long been at the heart of the town’s culture.

“Cleveland County is one of those places where music is a part of everything,” said Mary Beth Martin, a 15-year resident who is also executive director of the Scruggs Center. “It's one of those magical places like Muscle Shoals or Memphis in that music is a really important part of who we are.”

Martin moved to Cleveland County in 2008 and has seen the

renaissance of Shelby, located about an hour west of Charlotte, in the time since. Two years earlier, the town worked with an advisor from North Carolina State University on a plan to revive the town where most buildings sat empty and businesses struggled to stay open. The group decided to focus on music as a means for revitalization and planned the opening of two major venues dedicated to two of the county’s most famous natives: celebrated country singer Don Gibson and renowned banjoist Earl Scruggs.

The plan paid off. Martin recalled an “energy infused in the community” after the openings of the Gibson Theater in 2009, and then the Scruggs Center in 2014. “What it's done is give small business owners the confidence to open and

keep open a restaurant,” Martin said. “It’s given people a reason to come back to Uptown Shelby.”

In addition to boosting tourism, the Scruggs Center is also preserving music history. The late Scruggs is a banjo pioneer, a Cleveland County native who went from working in nearby textile mills to revolutionizing bluegrass music with his three-finger picking style. Popularizing the technique—now commonly known as Scruggs style—made Scruggs a titan in American music dating back to the 1940s, at first through his work with Bill Monroe and the duo Flatt and Scruggs and later with his own Earl Scruggs Revue. His ubiquitous instrumental “Foggy Mountain Breakdown” became well known after its placement in the film Bonnie

and Clyde.

The Scruggs Center showcases the breadth of Scruggs’ influence, which has extended far beyond North Carolina. In one of its most striking elements, the center displays a collage crafted by Bernie Taupin, the gifted songwriter and visual artist from the UK best known for being the lyricist for Elton John. Taupin’s visual piece “He Will Set Your Fields on Fire” is a fiery tribute to Scruggs and the founding elements of bluegrass, featuring a smoke-tinged fiddle, banjo, and mandolin.

The Scruggs Center also highlights the importance of radio, which is how most rural communities—like the one Scruggs himself came from—connected with the world, as visitors can listen to archived broadcasts and ads dating

8 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS FIELD REPORT PICKER'S PARADISE
C M Y CM MY CY CMY K
THE EARL SCRUGGS CENTER IS HELPING REVIVE SHELBY, N.C. PHOTO BY CHRIS RITTER

Virginia is for all kinds of outdoor lovers. Whether you're a mountain biker, a lake paddler, a dock sitter, or a beach lounger, Virginia's got something for every type of outdoor lover. So, come love it for yourself! virginia.org

back to the 1920s.

Perhaps the center’s most engaging exhibit is the Common Threads table—a dinner table-sized touchscreen on which visitors can explore the ways geography, instruments, and musicians who came before and after Scruggs influenced each other in a great web of music history.

The Common Threads table is one of several exhibits that showcase the Black artists who influenced that history. “Traditional styles like old-time music, bluegrass, and blues music are so important to this area,” said Martin.

“You cannot tell the story of that type of music without talking about the African traditions, instruments, and musicians that are really important to the formation of that music.”

Other exhibits in the Scruggs Center highlight Black history more specifically—the traveling exhibit Redefining Builders pays homage to the Black communities

of Cleveland County, while a permanent fixture showcases the banjo as a quintessentially African instrument.

For 70 years, the Scruggs Center building served as the county courthouse, but now the courtroom hosts concerts. The building’s Great Hall has been transformed into a 120-seat concert venue that plays host to intimate shows from local acts as well as touring ones.

Close by, the music continues. Dragonfly Wine Market, a wine store, bar, and venue across the street, has a cozy, living room feel that’s made it a favorite for local musicians since its opening in 2012. According to owner Jamie Coulter, when he opened Dragonfly, which features old time decor and a bar cat named Pinot who “runs the place,” only about a quarter of buildings downtown were filled with businesses. Now his block is bustling with new fixtures like Lily Bean Coffee,

Pfeiffer Cafe, and Newgrass Brewing Co., which has a massive mural of Scruggs on the wall of its patio.

And more developments are in the works. After wrapping up its Center Stage concert series in the Great Hall in early August, the Scruggs Center’s focus turns to the second Earl Scruggs Music Festival. Held this month at the nearby Tryon International Equestrian Center, the festival boasts a packed lineup featuring Emmylou Harris, Del McCoury, and the Infamous Stringdusters.

With the festival expected to bring thousands of visitors to the county, it’s hard to believe that just 15 years earlier, Shelby was what Martin remembers as a “ghost town.” Now it buzzes with the musical traditions of the region and a lesson for what can happen when a town bets on music.

10 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
THE EARL SCRUGGS CENTER FEATURES MUSIC EXHIBITS AND HOSTS LIVE CONCERTS. PHOTOS BY CHRIS RITTER
TingPavilion.com
CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA
September 15, 2023 SOLD OUT
Benefiting the Charlottesville Free Clinic
SEPTEMBER 29 LOW TICKET WARNING
with special guests

Solutions start in the South.

We are the Southern Environmental Law Center, one of the nation’s most powerful defenders of the environment, rooted right here in the South. As lawyers, policy and issue experts, and community advocates and partners, we take on the toughest challenges to protect our air, water, land, wildlife and the people who live here. Together, we can solve the most complex environmental challenges right here in the South.

©Bill Lea ©Jared Kay

Spin Your Wheels

These easily accessible road biking trips bring big views

FEW OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES LET YOU COVER AS MUCH TERRAIN and take in as many sites as road cycling. But tackling the logistics of picture-perfect adventures can be tricky. Lucky for us, the Blue Ridge region is chock full of top-tier destinations that pair incredible scenery with easy access.

From a jaunt along the Blue Ridge Parkway in one of the nation’s top outdoor towns, to a loop through West Virginia state parks and wilderness areas, to cruising mountain peaks in the highlands of North Carolina, these cycling routes offer ready-made adventure without the headache of excessive planning.

PHOTO COURTESY OF VISIT VIRGINIA'S BLUE RIDGE

HARPERS FERRY / SHEPHERDSTOWN, WEST VIRGINIA

Perched high in the Blue Ridge Mountains along the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, these two towns are just 12 miles apart and offer some of the prettiest scenery in the Eastern U.S. Connect them via a string of rural backroads and the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal Rail-to-Trail for a stunningly beautiful loop.

The Ride: Harpers Ferry / Shepherdstown Loop, 34

Miles — Start at Harpers Ferry Brewing and follow Adventure Center Lane onto U.S. 340 North. Cross Harpers Bridge, being sure to soak up grand views of the Potomac River, then turn right onto Keep Tryst Road after about a mile. Follow for 1.5 miles and take a right onto the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal Trail access, then another right onto the trail. Revel in 14.8 miles of riverside views, which include 19th century stone canal locks, railroad bridges, the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac, historic downtown Harper’s Ferry, and more. Hang a right at Lock 38 and follow Canal Road to take a left on Shepherdstown Pike. Cross the river, then hang a left onto West German Road in .8 miles, which soon becomes River Road.

Follow the latter through rural breathtaking West Virginia back country for 5.7 miles and take a left onto Knott Road. Take another quick left onto Bakerton Road and continue until it becomes Potomac Street, in about 5.3 miles. Follow the latter along the Potomac into downtown Harpers Ferry, then turn right onto Shenandoah Street. Pass John Brown’s Fort and Harpers Ferry National Historical Park, then turn left onto U.S. 340. Enjoy the views as you cross the Shenandoah River, then continue for 1.8 miles back to Adventure Center Lane.

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OUTDOORS
PHOTO BY AMANDA LUGENBELL/BLOWING ROCK TOURISM

Haywood you like to catch some big air?

Imagine feeling the rush at your very own playground. Come to Canton, North Carolina to experience Chestnut Mountain Nature Park—with 15 miles of winding trails, awesome overlooks, and peaceful pavilions that beg for big adventure. You can bike and hike to your heart’s delight—or picnic to your heart’s content.

Get rolling at VisitNCSmokies.com

October 7

Art by the Creek Old Fort 10 am to 2 pm

October 14

Mountain Glory Festival www.mtngloryfestival.com

Mountain Glory 5K Marion Road Run www.runsignup.com

October 21

Geyser Growl Half-Marathon

Presented by Hillman Beer Run Black Mountain to Old Fort, NC www.gloryhoundevents.com

October 29

Gateway Trail Race 5K and 10K Trail Runs www.runsignup.com

BLUERIDGETRAVELER.COM | 828.668.4282

scenic route

Make moments that matter in hip and historic Frederick County, Maryland. Wander quaint downtowns where historic buildings host locally-owned shops. Indulge in world-class restaurants and embrace our lively arts scene. Venture outdoors in National and State Parks and experience our storied past at Civil War battlefields. Unwind at dozens of wineries, breweries, and distilleries. visitfrederick.org • 800–999–3613

Details about event registration, and schedules are online.

16 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
TAKE
THE

DAVIS, WEST VIRGINIA

The tiny, 700-person town of Davis sits high in the Allegheny Mountains surrounded by 4,000-foot peaks, state parks, and national forest lands. Revered by hiking and mountain biking enthusiasts, this outdoor hub also offers fantastic cycling opportunities. Isolated highelevation roads bring majestic views of Canaan Valley, Timberline Resort, and Blackwater Falls State Park.

The Ride: Davis / Hendricks Loop, 44 miles — Start in downtown Davis by Stumptown Ales and take 32 South for 3.8 miles, passing through Blackwater Falls State Park then turning left on Cortland Road for a descent brimming with pastoral views of rural Canaan Valley. After four miles, turn right onto Summer Road, then left back onto 32 by the Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge Visitor’s Center. Follow 32 for 3.1 miles of panoramic mountain views, passing Canaan Valley Resort, then turning right onto County Route 45/3 for a lovely descent through the Monongahela National Forest. Continue for 2.4 miles onto WV-72, which climbs above the Cheat River’s eponymous fork, following it for about 13 miles into the tiny village of Hendricks. There, continue on 72 to County Route 219/4, climbing for 3.2 miles, then turning right onto U.S. 219 North for a nine-mile climb into the town of Thomas. From there, follow U.S. 48 past the delectable Mountain State Brewing Co., turning back onto WV-32 and into downtown Davis.

SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 17
PHOTO BY AMANDA LUGENBELL/BLOWING ROCK TOURISM

ROANOKE, VIRGINIA

Nestled between the Alleghenies and the Blue Ridge Mountains, Roanoke features a bustling downtown area that’s just seven miles from the Blue Ridge Parkway. Known as one of America’s most bikefriendly cities, it was tapped to host 2023’s youth and amateur road cycling national championships. If you’re looking for pavement and views, Roanoke doesn’t disappoint.

The Ride: Downtown to Blue Ridge Parkway Loop, 25 miles — Start in the historic Grandin Village neighborhood at the Scratch Biscuit Company and follow Memorial Avenue Southwest over the Roanoke River, turning right onto Hannah Circle Southwest. Take a quick right onto the Roanoke River Greenway and continue onto the outer trail around Vic Thomas Park. Cross the river again and follow the greenway for about 5.3 miles through Wasena Park, Smith Park, River’s Edge Park, Piedmont Park, and Bennington Park. Hang a right onto Bennington Street Southeast and backtrack to hang a left on Riverdale Road Southeast. Continue through a quiet neighborhood for about .5 miles before turning right onto 19th Street Southeast. Continue for about 1.5 miles to Highland Road, pass under the Blue Ridge Parkway, and turn left onto Rutrough Road Southeast. Climb through dense forests for 1.5 miles to Explore Park, then follow the Roanoke River Parkway to turn left on the Blue Ridge Parkway, being sure to catch Pine Mountain Overlook’s panoramic Roanoke Valley views. Enjoy pastoral Parkway scenery for 5 miles then turn right onto Mill Mountain Parkway for a steep climb and lengthy descent back into town. Continue for 4.3 miles, take a left onto Hamilton Avenue, then a quick right onto Piedmont Street Southeast, which you’ll use to re-access the Roanoke River Greenway. Hang a left and continue for 3.2 miles to the Scratch Biscuit Company.

18 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
Oct 21, 2023 Tour de dirt CHARITY BIKE RIDE Come and Ride in Floyd, VA! With over 40 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway! VisitFloydVA.com
PHOTO BY SAM DEAN PHOTOGRAPHY/ COURTESY OF VISIT VIRGINIA'S
BLUE RIDGE
Find places with wide-open spaces. From scenic rail trails to backpacking adventures, Nature’s Mountain Playground has a route for every hiker seeking the best fall views. This autumn, discover a glimpse of Almost Heaven as you embark on a family adventure through Pocahontas County. WVtourism.com/PocahontasCounty
Monongahela National Forest

BLOWING ROCK, NORTH CAROLINA

The 1,000-person town of Blowing Rock sits at an elevation of about 3,500 feet and has a downtown area located within walking distance of the Blue Ridge Parkway. This longtime outdoor destination borders Pisgah National Forest’s 192,000-acre Grandfather District, and offers easy access to countless overlooks — including its 3,700-foot namesake vista. Convenient amenities pair with Parkway rides and an abundance of scenic byways for exquisite pedaling experiences.

The Ride: Blowing Rock / Parkway Tour, 21.3 miles — Start downtown at Blowing Rock Brewing Company. Turn left onto Sunset Drive, then left onto Main Street, hanging a quick right onto scenic Laurel Lane, which soon becomes Wonderland Trail. Climb through the national forestabutting neighborhood for 1.8 miles then turn left onto U.S. 221 South. Proceed for about .6 miles, then turn right onto a view-rich, 6.5-mile stretch of Parkway. You’ll pass Trout Lake and Moses Cone Memorial Park, where you can take a quick detour to historic Flat Top Manor to catch 360-degree, 3,800-foot views from Thunder Hill Overlook. Exit the Parkway on Aho Road, then turn right onto Friendship Church Road. Descend through bountiful mountain forests for about 2.8 miles, then turn right on Bamboo Road, which recrosses the Parkway to become George Hayes Road after 2 miles. Climb alongside boulders and creeks through rhododendron forests for 2.1 miles, then turn left onto the Parkway. Hang a left onto Green Hill Road after 2.6 miles, go .5 miles, then turn right on Wonderland Drive. Continue for 1 mile and turn right onto East Cornish Road, which quickly becomes Sunset Drive. Follow Sunset back into town to the brewery.

20 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
BASECAMP FOR BIKES BREWS & ADVENTURE Virginia’s Outdoor Recreation Capital & IMBA Bronze Level Ride Center VisitHarrisonburgVA.com/outside
PHOTO BY AMANDA LUGENBELL/BLOWING ROCK TOURISM
Discover one of the Southeast’s best-kept secrets for mountain bikers, where scenic trails wind through forests and hills. From beginner-friendly paths to challenging terrains, riders of all levels will find their perfect adventure on our hundreds of miles of trails. Check out the vibrant biking community, explore the natural beauty, and experience the heart-pounding thrill of Tallahassee’s trails today! Learn more at MBTallahassee.com. VisitTallahassee.com
FLORIDA elevated

Creative Country

Experience Great Art and Explore the Outdoors Under Changing Leaves With These Five Colorful Fall Getaways

DOWNTOWN JONESBOROUGH OFFERS TONS OF HISTORIC CHARM.
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE TOWN OF JONESBOROUGH

A WEEK ROUGHING IT IN THE WOODS can be great. But if you want your trip to offer equal parts recreation and culture, check out these five Southern Appalachian towns. Both outdoorsy and creative, these destinations allow you to bike, hike, paddle, fish, and climb while experiencing worldclass art. So, grab your helmet and your sketchbook and get ready to get away.

Befriend Bears and Black Diamonds in Hendersonville, North Carolina

Tucked in the mountains of western North Carolina, Hendersonville is often pegged as a sleepy-eyed retirement town. But don’t discount it just yet. Though the pace here is slow, there are still plenty of artsy adventures to be had. That much is evidenced by the Bearfootin’ Public Art Walk.

Situated on Main Street, this whimsical display features dozens of ceramic

24 BLUE RIDGE
OUTDOORS
(TOP) BEARFOOTIN’ BEARS ON MAIN STREET IN HENDERSONVILLE, N.C. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE HENDERSON COUNTY TOURISM DEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY (BOTTOM LEFT) GET COZY AT THE TREEHOUSE AT EDENWOOD. PHOTO BY TIM CULBERSON OF AERIAL
Salem is ideally located near world-class mountain biking, scenic rivers, and iconic hiking, like the famous Appalachian Trail. Continue your adventure with a craft beer and great food in a charming downtown. VisitSalemVA.com Make Salem in Virginia’s Blue Ridge your hub for outdoor adventure. Dinner in Downtown.
PHOTO PROS SHRED LOAMY SINGLETRACK AT RIDE KANUGA IN HENDERSONVILLE. PHOTO COURTESY OF RIDE KANUGA

ursines. Painted by local artists, these brutes roam downtown from spring to early fall, when they are auctioned off for charity.

Of course, Hendersonville delivers its fair share of real bears too. To spot one, travel 10 minutes outside of town to Ride Kanuga, a 1,400-acre bike park with an impressive system of professionally built trails. Crowd favorites include Hemlock Epoch, a black diamond with epic jumps, and Natural Selection, a forebodingly named double black diamond with massive features.

To fuel up after a day of gnar, head to Postero, an upscale

restaurant that culls inspiration from “the great American melting pot.” Belly full, retire to the Treehouse at Edenwood, an arboreal abode where you can daydream about one day escaping your corporate cubicle for good.

Hike Trails and Listen to Tales in Jonesborough, Tennessee

On a fall day in 1973, a former Arkansas congressman, Tennessee banker, college professor, and western North Carolina farmer mounted a stage in Jonesborough and told stories. They spoke of coon hunting and droughts and quirky neighbors. Meanwhile, a crowd of 60 listeners laughed, cried, and begged for more.

In the decades since, that small event—now known as the National Storytelling Festival—has exploded in popularity, drawing some 10,000

visitors to the tiny burg of Jonesborough each autumn.

If you plan on attending this year’s festival (slated for October 6-8), bring your hiking boots and explore Persimmon Ridge Park between storytelling sessions. At 130 acres, this woodland wonderland isn’t your typical municipal greenspace. Sure, there’s a baseball field and playground. But the park is best known for its hiking trails, which wind through wildflower-fringed fields and hardwood forests.

After your hike, head to historic downtown Jonesborough (est. 1779) and order a simple yet satisfying ‘Borough Burger from Main Street

Cafe. Then, catch some Zs at the Hawley House Butterfly Cottage.

Sample Fine Art and Flatwater in Wytheville, Virginia

Wytheville (pronounced withville) is unassuming. Boasting a population just shy of 9,000, this Virginia township is friendly and quaint. It’s a place where folks say “howdy” and ask how your momma is doing. But for all of Wytheville’s

Fall arrives in a blaze of glory.

With three state parks and hundreds of miles of hiking trails, experience a uniquely Appalachian fall along the trails of Mercer County. Vibrant colors, scenic views and cooler temps — prepare for an adventure like no other in Almost Heaven.

WVtourism.com/MercerCounty

SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 25
(LEFT) UNWIND AT THE HAWLEY HOUSE BUTTERFLY COTTAGE. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE TOWN OF JONESBOROUGH (TOP) SPEND A DAY KAYAKING THE NEW RIVER. PHOTO COURTESY OF VISIT WYTHEVILLE Camp Creek State Park

Mayberry-esque charm, it boasts a funkier side as well. Case in point: Formato Fine Arts.

Founded by 18-year-old native Lily Formato, this gallery features local artists who are “exploring conceptual framework and boundarypushing ideology.” Formato also hosts community events—everything from ballroom dance lessons to improvisational jam sessions. Alas, if you left your jaw harp at home, fret not: There’s still lots to discover in Wytheville.

One popular pastime among townies and tourists alike is kayaking the New River. To access this waterway, drive about 20 minutes south to the rural holding of Austinville. You’ll begin your 3.5-mile flatwater trip here—just under the Route 636 bridge—and take out at the New River Trail State Park boat ramp just upstream from Foster Falls Camp. Afterward, head back to Wytheville, get cleaned up at The Bolling Wilson Hotel, and grab a bite at Graze on Main, an eclectic eatery with strong cocktails and even stronger Southern influences.

Catch Some Trout and Tunes in Ellijay, Georgia

In 1988, former president Jimmy Carter invited reporters from The Washington Post to his 10-acre homestead in Ellijay. During the interview, Carter donned waders and fished Turniptown Creek—a brook “alive with fat, pulpy rainbows.”

Since that article hit newsstands 35 years ago, anglers have descended upon the north Georgia mountains in droves. If you’re among them, book a trip with Reel’em In Guide Service. These fly fishing experts know all the honey holes in Ellijay—even a few along the presidential-approved Turniptown Creek.

After a long day on the water, freshen up at Ellijay River House Bed and Breakfast and then down some bologna sliders and fried green tomatoes at The Roof, an Appalachian-inspired noshery with sweeping views of downtown.

26 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
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For a nightcap, head over to Cartecay River Brewing Co. A timeworn watering hole, this place is the perfect spot to nurse craft beers and listen to folksy ballads performed by emerging and established musicians. Pro tip: For even more footstompin’ tunes, attend the Dancing Goats FolkFest. Hosted in late October, this shindig features live music, Appalachian crafts, goat beauty pageants, and other curious forms of entertainment.

Celebrate Crags and Craft in Morgantown, West Virginia

A booming city nestled in the wild and wonderful state of West Virginia, Morgantown is a mecca for bookish beatniks with a thirst for adventure.

If it’s your first time visiting this eclectic enclave, we suggest starting at Coopers Rock State Forest. Located about 15 minutes east of downtown, this 13,000-acre

park is rife with hundreds of V0 to V11 boulder problems with curious names like Anti-Elvis, George Washington’s Nose, and Get Your Shoes Back On. There are some opportunities to top-rope too, if that’s more your style.

Once you’ve had your fill of climbing, return to the city and head straight for the Art Museum of West Virginia University. Situated on WVU’s campus, this 5,400-squarefoot venue is home to everything from abstract paintings by prolific 20th-century artist Romare Bearden to folksy carvings by Kentucky creative Minnie Adkins.

End your day with a farm-to-fork dinner at Table 9, a hip gastropub serving delicacies like ribeye steak anointed with bone marrow butter and bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with pepper jam. Afterward, bed down at the Modern Homestead, a bucolic holding that offers spa services and fresh-baked pastries.

28 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
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SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 29
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A getaway to Kentucky offers all kinds of opportunities to escape the world.

Back at Big South Fork

Mountain biking and more at a remote escape on the Tennessee-Kentucky state line

“BEAR!” I SHOUTED, SKIDDING my bike to a halt. “And baby!”

I was riding around a corner on the Collier Ridge trail when the hulking mama reared up to guard her small cub. I backed up as our group gathered, and we watched

the bears run off into the woods.

Cautiously, we continued riding through the backcountry near Bandy Creek on the Tennessee side of the park. This fun loop is about six rolling miles with 500 feet of climbing and the same amount

of downhill coming in regular fast bursts. It was a Friday morning in early June. We’d gotten a late start after staying up too late the night before, celebrating our long-delayed reunion and return to Big South Fork National River and

Recreation Area, which straddles the Kentucky state line.

At the trail junction, my buddy Boberts and I parted ways with our wives. They seemed quite pleased with the split, given their target was afternoon cocktails at

SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 31
BEZEMEK
PHOTO BY MIKE

the campers. Our goal was to ride through the heat and humidity and complete the entire 34-mile epic. After up-and-down doubletrack on Duncan Hollow Bypass, we turned onto the Duncan Hollow singletrack. I certainly appreciated the cooling breeze on the plunging downhill half. But climbing back up, my head was pounding, and my hair felt like it was on fire. Having been trapped in the Low Country all year due to family and work obligations, I wasn’t ready for steeps in the heat. While Boberts pushed onward, I reluctantly headed back to camp to cool down.

A Taste of West in the Southeast

Recreation and relaxation are waiting for you in Berkeley Springs. Soak in the warm mineral waters at one of our many spas, visit art galleries, distinctive shops, and enjoy fine dining. Fill your days with hiking, swimming, golfing, horseback riding, fishing or mountain biking. Every weekend offers live music and a historic movie theatre.

Learn more by visiting www.berkeleysprings.com

32 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
THE AUTHOR RIDES THE GRAND GAP LOOP.
PHOTO BY BOBERTS

one of the most remote and rugged regions in the Southeast. Located on the Cumberland Plateau, this roughly 200-square-mile park averages around 750,000 visitors per year. Most folks come for biking, hiking, and paddling. The rec area is way less crowded than big-name units like Great Smoky Mountains National Park or the Blue Ridge Parkway, which are seeing record annual numbers around 14 and 16 million, respectively. To me, Big South Fork’s remoteness makes it the most Western-like of the Southeastern parks.

My first trip was for whitewater kayaking during early spring about 15 years ago. Our group of 20and 30-something paddlers was exploring the creeks and rivers of the Southeast. We spent a few days running the classic seven-mile class III+ section from the Confluence to Leatherwood Ford. Flows were good, somewhere between 2000-3000 CFS. The rapids were

SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 33

That said, back then, the town of Oneida didn’t have a lot of post-shuttle dinner options. Each night, we had a few choices: sandwiches in a gas station, pizza in a gas station, or fried other stuff in a gas station. Let’s just say, we never ran out of gas on that trip. Luckily, there are more options these days. That said, don’t show up expecting results for fancy search terms like “gastropub.” That’s not why you come out here.

After bailing midday, I went back to our camper at the pleasant Bandy Creek Campground . I spent a few hours

biking. Just before setting off, a dazed Boberts rolled into camp having gutted out the epic route. When I invited him to join for more, his eyes widened, and he practically ran inside his airconditioned camper.

Riding solo, I made a figure eight, up Collier Ridge West and down West Bandy, with the latter trail being a bit rougher and more technical but still fast and fun. Then I climbed the road and descended Collier Ridge East. At one point, I slammed on the brakes. A huge black bear was climbing a large tree. Startled, it jumped down with all four paws

34 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
EB S T OF THE BLU E RIDGE YOU KNOW IN THE FEBRUARY 2023 IS S UE ! @blueridgeoutdoors blueridgeoutdoors.com/bestoftheblueridge WHAT’S BEST! NO M IN ATE & VOT E THIS OCTOBER WINN E RS ANNOUNCE D On Your Favorite Destinations, Businesses, Events, Food & Drink, and More!

extended in mid-air. It landed in a crouch and stared at me before barreling downhill.

Kentucky Hikes and Historic Sites

On Saturday, we decided to rest our legs by exploring the Kentucky side of Big South Fork. The drive emphasized the area’s remoteness when a navigation app suspiciously led us over Yamacraw Bridge to the front yard of some random dude’s house. He was riding his lawnmower, puzzled by the four equally confused hikers looking for a trailhead. So, I used the NPS map brochure to get us to the Yahoo Falls parking lot, where we met a family who had also stopped by that same guy’s

house before correcting course.

First, we walked the two-mile trail out to Yahoo Arch, one of several hundred natural sandstone arches found within the rec area. This impressive feature includes not just the sweeping arch but a rock window and a series of bigger and smaller caves. Full disclosure: I am kind of a fanboy for geomorphology—essentially how landforms take their shapes. Scrambling up above the arch, I could sort of see it. During high runoff, water had once tumbled over ledges and pooled above a cave, swirling and eroding the backside bedrock to eventually create Yahoo Arch.

On the return hike, we walked through the alcove behind Yahoo Falls, which was

SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 35
THE BIG SOUTH FORK OF THE CUMBERLAND RIVER.
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only a trickle after a dry spring. Dropping a stout 113 feet, it’s the state’s tallest waterfall, and one of seventeen in Eastern Kentucky included on the Kentucky Wildlands Waterfall Trail. On the hike out, we met a young group of Sheltowee Trace section hikers. Lacking a map, they had errantly turned uphill away from the 343-mile trail that starts near Big South Fork and ends at the northern boundary of Daniel Boone National Forest. I gave them our NPS map brochure, and they trooped back down to the river to trudge onward.

Our next stop was the Blue Heron Mining Community. This abandoned coal town, which operated from 1937 to 1962, is now a fascinating outdoor NPS museum. Our walking tour took us past the preserved tipple, where extracted coal was prepared for

transport to market. Above, we crossed the bridge that carried the mining carts over the river. We only had time for a fraction of the 10 miles of paved paths and dirt trails passing through the area, which lead to steel-frame ghost structures, the gated mine entrance, and viewpoints in the hills above the river.

Baffled as to why such an excellent site was so empty on a Saturday during peak season, I dropped inside the small visitor center to inquire. The on-duty ranger looked up in surprise.

“You’re number 27 today,” he said sheepishly.

The ranger explained the ghost town once saw 300 visitors per day, with most arriving on the Big South Fork Scenic Railway. Then the track washed out. But recent repairs mean the trains may return in the future.

36 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
BLUE HERON MINING COMMUNITY. PHOTO BY MIKE BEZEMEK B R A N C H O U T Visitgulf.com/Explore E x p l o r e G u l f C o u n t y , F l o r i d a P a r k s . F r o m i n l a n d s w a m p s a n d o a k t r e e - c o v e r e d p l a y g r o u n d s t o b e a c h s i d e t r a i l s a n d k a y a k l a u n c h e s , p a r k s i n G u l f C o u n t y a l l o w y o u t o b r a n c h o u t a n d e x p l o r e s o m e t h i n g n e w
SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 37 Fall is a beautiful season in Chesapeake, Virginia. With miles of colorful fall foliage along our trails and waterways, you can bike, hike, paddle, or stroll through the season. Have fun on our farms and explore pumpkin patches, corn mazes, homemade pies, and jams. Revel in one of our many fall events ranging from oyster fests to wine festivals. Make Chesapeake your fall getaway. VisitChesapeake.com/fall | 888-889-5551 Get lost in the moment . ccompletely ompletely Explore a uunexpected nexpected trail Plan your getaway at www.georgetownky.com | 844.863.8600 #GoToGtown #TheBirthplaceofBourbon Horsey Hundred SkullBuster Trails

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Back for Singletrack

On Sunday our wives went hiking in search of more stone arches. Meanwhile, Boberts and I rode away from camp determined to right a wrong. Five years ago, we’d come here in late fall on a last-minute bikepacking trip after our original route was smoked out by forest fires. We had little time to plan, and it didn’t go as hoped. We ended up on some rough horse trails and had to carry loaded bikes up cliffs and down stairs and ladders. We camped twice in manure-filled horse camps, got lost, ran out of water, and were saved by some generous homesteaders with a well. After I wrote about the misadventure for a bikepacking blog, a local rider messaged me about how

bummed he was we completely missed the best singletrack in the park. I promised we would be back, and finally we’d made it. Fortunately, after years of buildup, Grand Gap Loop did not disappoint. We started early to beat the heat, and enjoyed about 6.5 miles of fast turns, ledge drops, and cliffside trail offering stunning views above the canyon. At Angel Falls Overlook, we met some friendly regional riders from the clubs that maintain the trails. We rode with them partway on the worthy John Muir Trail, which winds away from the rim for about 7.5 miles into dense forest that conceals alcoves and caves. It was a triumphant visit to what’s become a favorite place. Our only remaining goal was to figure out when we’d next return to the Big South Fork.

38 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
HIKING UNDER YAHOO ARCH. PHOTO BY MIKE BEZEMEK
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BIKING ADVENTURES

Experience the vibrant foliage, crisp autumn air, and rustling leaves like you never have before. Our region is full of idyllic bike routes, from scenic country backroads to technical singletrack, perfect for the fall season. Whether you are looking for a leisurely family cruise or a heart-pounding descent, this guide to biking the Blue Ridge can help you decide.

EPIC RIDING THROUGH VIRGINIA’S BLUE RIDGE

Welcome to Virginia’s Blue Ridge, America’s East Coast Mountain Biking Capital and an IMBA Silver-Level Ride Center. Encompassing the cities of Roanoke and Salem, as well as the surrounding counties of Botetourt, Franklin, and Roanoke, there are over 400 miles of trails, 1,110 miles of gravel, and 2,000 miles of road routes for cyclists of all kinds within a one-hour radius.

Start your trip out at Roanoke County’s Explore Park. Home to the Blue Ridge Bike Center, a progressive mountain biking skills park, you can access a network of 14 miles of multi-use trails and miles of the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway. Additional on-site amenities include ziplining at Treetop Quest, fishing on the Roanoke River Blueway, and drinks at Twin Creeks Brewpub, as well as campsites, RV sites, and cabins for a cozy overnight stay. Head into the nearby town of Vinton for a delicious meal at FarmBurguesa, RND Coffee, or New York Pizza

Head out to Botetourt County for miles of winding roads and unspoiled beauty. Ride some of the best backcountry trails through George Washington and Jefferson National Forest on the Glenwood Horse Trail Road cyclists can take the TransAmerica Bicycle Trail through the towns of Daleville,

Troutville, and Buchanan along winding country roads. When you’re done exploring, check out Foot of the Mountain Cafe, 1772 on Main & Rooftop, Town Center Tap House, or Three Li’l Pigs Barbeque for a hearty refueling.

Within Roanoke city limits, Mill Mountain Park features ten miles of trails, plus connects to the extensive Roanoke Valley Greenway network. Don’t miss the ride to the iconic Roanoke Star with stunning views of the valley. Enjoy a post adventure treat from Blue Cow Ice Cream, Starr Hill Pilot Brewery & Side Stage, or Crystal Spring Grocery Co

Several local outfitters, including Cardinal Bicycle, Roanoke Mountain Adventures, and Trek Bicycle Roanoke provide gear rentals and biking essentials, as well as regularly host group rides and other fun events.

Plan your visit around one of the area’s upcoming events. On October 8, road riders will take to the streets of Historic Fincastle for Virginia’s Blue Ridge Gran Fondo, a beautiful ride through Botetourt County. Families and adventurers of all ages can try a variety of activities, listen to live music, and interact with their favorite brands at Roanoke GO Outside Festival from October 13 to 15.

BikeVBR.com

MILL MOUNTAIN PARK & ROANOKE STAR OVERLOOK | PHOTO COURTESY OF SAM DEAN PHOTOGRAPHY – VISIT VBR PHOTO COURTESY OF ROANOKE COUNTY PARKS, RECREATION & TOURISM VIRGINIA’S BLUE RIDGE TWENTY24 PRO CYCLING TEAM | PHOTO COURTESY OF VISIT VBR

BIKE THE MOUNTAINS OF ALLEGANY COUNTY, MD

the mountainside is bursting with hues of red, orange and yellow. While there are hundreds of miles worth exploring, Mountain Maryland has worked with its local trail groups to develop eight distinct road routes. The routes range in distance from 15 miles to an 80-mile ride that will take you from downtown Cumberland to the Flight 93 Memorial in nearby Shanksville, Pa. The road routes quickly become rural, low traffic, and as varied in terrain as anywhere on the east coast. If you are looking to rent a bike or need a quick tune-up, Allegany County is home to multiple outfitters including Wheelzup

Adventures. The downtown Cumberland store offers trail, road, and kid bike rentals, apparel and gear retail, and the connection for a variety of tours and guided experiences. For a family-friendly adventure, Tracks and Yaks offers Maryland’s only rail biking operation. This 2.5-hour railbike tour starts from the Frostburg Depot and runs along the Western Maryland Railway line with spectacular mountain views and iconic points of interest. It is a great multi-generational experience as it is mostly downhill with little strenuous pedaling, and it offers a unique fall foliage experience.

Situated among the Appalachian Plateau and Allegheny Mountains and bordered by the Potomac River, Allegany County is a scenic biking destination in the ‘Mountain Side of Maryland.’ A convenient drive from major regional cities, including Washington, D.C., Baltimore, and Pittsburgh, you will find plenty to do in your saddle and off. MDMountainSide.com

Check out some of the other trails in the area for a refreshing taste of the mountains. The Donut and Go, a donut and coffee trail, features 10 stops that are here to provide you with the perfect combo of sugar rush and a sustained buzz. Drive the Mountain Maryland Tap and Pour Craft Beverage Tour for a roundup of the area’s best wineries, breweries, and distilleries. After a long day outside, grab a glass of your favorite drink while you enjoy the mountains of Maryland. Get away and ride all day in Allegany County, the ‘Mountain Side of Maryland.’

MOUNTAINS, ROADS, AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN

A quarter of Allegany County is preserved public land, giving riders plenty of options to choose from. Bike the trails around Lake Habeeb, known for some of the bluest water in the state, at Rocky Gap State Park. Hang out on the park’s beaches or take a boat out on the water for a change of scenery. Green Ridge State Forest offers more than 80 miles of trails for hikers and bikers to discover. More experienced riders will enjoy the Green Ridge Mountain Biking Trail, a 12.5-mile circuit made up of mostly singletrack. Or, for more rugged pathways through mother nature, complete with logs, rock jumps, and opportunity for speed, check out the newest trails

developed in Dans Mountain State Park. The trail is about 5 miles long and great for intermediate and advanced riders. Additionally, two internationally recognized trail systems meet in Allegany County to give you countless riding options. Head north from Cumberland, Md., on The Great Allegheny Passage, a 150-mile rail trail that finishes in Pittsburgh, Pa., or take the C&O Canal Towpath 184.5 miles south to Washington, D.C., on one of the most visited national parks in the country. With so many miles available on these off-road gravel paths, it’s easy to go for a day ride or string together a multi-day bikepacking trip.

Road cyclists will love the routes available in Allegany County, especially in the fall season when

UNIQUE TRAILBLAZING

RELAXING ROUTES IN FRONT ROYAL, VA

The Shenandoah Valley has everything a cyclist and outdoor enthusiast could dream of. From leisurely rides down paved paths to adventurous mountain biking trails, Front Royal, Virginia offers views of Shenandoah like you have never seen before.

PEDAL PARADISE IN FREDERICK COUNTY, MD

From rustic mountain trails to pristine paved roads, Frederick County, Maryland is the perfect place for a bike ride. Situated just an hour outside of Washington D.C. and Baltimore, you have access to urban luxuries, with greater opportunity for outdoor adventure. So load up your enduro ripper, gravel grinder, or road racer and head to the middle of Maryland for a bike trip you’ll never forget.

Stick around town on the Royal Shenandoah Greenway, a four and a half mile crushed stone pathway that leads to the South Fork of the Shenandoah River, and is perfect for families and those looking for an easy gravel ride.

Not far away from Front Royal is Shenandoah River State Park, which is a mountain biker’s paradise. Wind through over 1,600 acres of woodlands and alongside the river on a mix of beginner to intermediate trails. When your ride is done, take a moment to refuel at one of the many picnic shelters, or cast out your line and catch a fish or two. Be sure to stop by nearby Shenandoah National Park before you leave for breathtaking views, unforgettable hikes, and lasting memories. Skyline Drive runs through the park and is also a fantastic option for road cyclists looking for challenging climbs, many miles, and steep grades.

Don’t forget about the Front Royal streets! Many of the roads in town are quiet and are ideal for a relaxed ride through quaint neighborhoods. To make route decisions easy, consider taking a local bike tour to get insights on the best areas to explore on two wheels.

Off the bike, discover the charm of Front Royal’s natural beauty, historic sites, and cultural activities. Head to nearby Skyline Caverns or Luray Caverns to see fascinating underground formations, kayak on the Shenandoah River, or attend the 51st annual Festival of Leaves on October 13 and 14. The stunning colors of fall foliage brings in quite the crowd, and for good reason!

Front Royal also hosts many other events including art shows, craft fairs, and music festivals. On or off the bike, there is no shortage of fun to be had here!

DiscoverFrontRoyal.com

Stay close to town and hop on the Frederick History Bicycle Loop, which is ideal for leisurely and family-oriented rides. On this loop you will discover historic sites around the town of Frederick and its historic district, such as the Francis Scott Key Monument and various Civil War sites. For a longer ride that road and touring cyclists will delight in, the Covered Bridges Tour is one of the best ways to explore the county. On this tour, riders can see all three of Frederick’s historic covered bridges, in all their wooden glory.

Head into the wilderness on the C&O Canal National Historical Park and discover the region’s natural and historic heritage. The 184.5-mile towpath within the park stretches from Georgetown, Washington D.C. to Cumberland, Maryland, and offers cyclists a beautiful route with historical structures, lockhouses, aqueducts, and other remnants of the canal’s past along the way. Other popular activities in the park include hiking, fishing, boating,

camping, and birdwatching. For an even grittier Frederick experience, tackle the rocky trails at Frederick Watershed. The “Shed” trails are quite technical, and make for a great experience for intermediate and advanced mountain bikers.

Service your bike and grab a drink! At Gravel & Grind in downtown Frederick, you can enjoy a caffeinated beverage while your bike is being tuned to perfection. Or get your two-wheeler serviced at Wheel Base, and hop on one of their local group rides. If you need a bike, or a lift, head to River & Trail Outfitters for rental and shuttle services.

After a day in the saddle, wind down at one of the many wineries, breweries, and distilleries in the Maryland countryside, or on downtown streets. Grab some dinner from an eclectic choice of restaurants, take the kids for a homemade ice cream from South Mountain Creamery, and get ready to do it all again tomorrow!

VisitFrederick.org

A RIDE FOR EVERYONE APRES-BIKE GAMBRILL MOUNTAIN PARK ENDURANCE RACE HOSTED BY ADVENTURE ENABLERS.
LOYS
BRIDGE TO AUTUMN COURTESY OF JESSICA SAYERS
CIRCULAR PHOTO: SKYLINE DRIVE COURTESY OF SNP PHOTOGRAPHER, N. LEWIS
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FREDERICK CITY WASTERSHED

TOP VIRGINIA STATE PARKS FOR BIKERS OF ALL AGES

When it comes to planning your next biking adventure, look no further than the hundreds of miles of trails snaking through the 41 Virginia State Parks. Home to some of the best views and waterways in Virginia, and with trails for all ages and skill levels, there’s no better way to take it all in than a day spent on your two-wheeled rig.

FIND YOUR FLOW

Want to try an all-day or multi-day excursion? Douthat State Park, in the scenic Allegheny Mountains, has over 40 miles of multi-use trails for biking that range from easy to more challenging difficulties. The park’s picturesque beauty and plentiful camping options make it ideal for a multi-day bikepacking getaway. If you’re in the mood for a shorter day trip, traverse 31 miles on High Bridge Trail State Park. Take in the views from High Bridge, a historic landmark, as you bike 2,400 feet across the Appomattox River, flowing 125 feet below.

Looking to ride some sweet singletrack and scenic routes?

Pocahontas State Park has more than 70 miles of directional mountain bike and multi-use trails. This park has all the flow and obstacles you could want out of a challenging course, including hand cycle-friendly trails. Be sure to check out the newest trails at the Swift Creek Trail System in the park.

PEDAL AND PADDLE

Take in the water views in Staunton River State Park

Choose out of eight multi-use trails to catch glimpses of Buggs Island Lake, Staunton River, and Dan River. Afterward, explore the park by kayak or canoe, and sleep under the stars in this International Dark Sky Park. In eastern Virginia, the trails at York River State Park allow you

to explore a variety of coastal habitats by bike. More than 18 miles of trail, ranging from easy to difficult, snake through this rare estuarine environment where freshwater and saltwater meet. The mountain bike-only trails allow you to push yourself as you ride through marshes and forests with views from the riverbank.

An additional ten miles of multi-use trails weave through the forest of Fairy Stone State Park. Bike along the lake shore, view spectacular wildflowers and a waterfall, and climb up

to stunning overlooks. While exploring, keep an out for the legendary fairy stones, a naturally occurring stone formation that can be found throughout this landscape.

A RIDE TO THE PAST

The best part about these parks? All that offer biking, also offer hiking and hold nature and history programs throughout the year! From guided walks and canoe trips to fossil hunts and living history demonstrations, there are exciting and informative programs to suit

everyone. Programs and exhibits teach guests about those who shaped our culture and how our world works. They reveal the deeper meaning of our resources, impart new skills, and put people in touch with nature and hands-on history. With 41 state parks dotting the Virginia landscape from the Atlantic Ocean to the Appalachian Mountains, you’re sure to find one that fits your sense of adventure. Pump up your tires, grab your helmet, and head out to a Virginia State Park today.

VirginiaStateParks.gov

NEW RIVER TRAIL STATE PARK CLAYTOR LAKE STATE PARK BEAR CREEK STATE PARK SMITH MOUNTAIN LAKE STATE PARK

GET YOUR TIRES MUDDY IN MARION

COUNTY, W.VA

Gear up your bike and head to Valley Falls State Park in Marion County, West Virginia, for a ride along the rolling mountain terrain.

ADVENTURE AROUND EVERY TURN IN FRANKLIN COUNTY, VA

Calling all trail riders, road cyclists, and adventure seekers to Franklin County, Va. Explore an area rich in beautiful scenery and culture in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Valley Falls State Park is a mountain biking paradise, offering an expansive network of trails that cater to riders of all skill levels. Whether you’re a seasoned mountain biking professional or a novice rider eager to take on a new challenge, the park has something for everyone.

For beginners, the park offers smooth, gently winding trails like the Red Cardinal Trail that provide a perfect introduction to off-road cycling. As you gain confidence and skill, progress to more technical trails like the Rhododendron Trail , which loops around the park and features highspeed drops.

The park is home to four enduro-style trails for more gravity-oriented runs, including the popular Rocky Trail West This section is part of Valley Falls State Park’s Enduro Mountain Bike Race, held every June, and includes rock drops, steeps, tight turns, narrow bench cuts, optional lines and more.

Valley Falls State Park is renowned for

its stunning waterfalls that cascade gracefully over rugged rock formations. Take a breather, soak in the scenery and capture some Instagram-worthy moments that will make your friends envy your adventure.

After an exhilarating day of mountain biking, make a flavorful pit stop in Marion County. Home to the legendary pepperoni roll, and offering a variety of ItalianAmerican eats, sweet treats and local brews, Marion County offers a delicious post-ride experience. Indulge in the taste of victory as you refuel at charming local eateries, celebrating a day of adventure and satisfying your cravings in true West Virginian style.

Marion County offers miles of scenic hiking and biking routes, championship disc golf courses and some of the best rivers in the state. And with scenic parks, outdoor playgrounds and historic locations, there is an adventure waiting for everyone here. Get outside in Marion County, the Middle of Everywhere.

MarionCVB.com

Get your adventure started at Waid Park, a 500-acre park featuring over 16 miles of trails. You’ll ride sections of technical singletrack, river crossings, wooden ramps, and rock gardens, plus you can test your abilities on a jump line, riding skills loop, and more. Along the way, you’ll encounter active farms and the Pigg River Blueway flowing through the park. You can even hop on a section of the Historic Old Carolina Road Trail, a roadway settlers used in the 1700s.

Then head out to Jamison Mill Park for an additional 300 acres and six miles of interconnected loop trails. Located on the sprawling Philpott Lake, you’ll have views for days, plus easy access to a quick cool down in the water. You can even stay at the campground, open from April through October, for easy access to the trails.

If you’re looking for a quick jaunt, the 1.5mile Maurice Turner Trail in the charming town of Boones Mill is the perfect escape into nature. Or, if road cycling is more your

jam, the Franklin County Freewheelers Bicycle Club can help you find the best back roads around for picturesque views and challenging climbs. Franklin County hosted the 2023 USA Cycling Amateur Road National Championships in June 2023. Cyclists can ride the National Championship Course through the hills of western Franklin County and compare their times to the best in the world.

Make your way into Rocky Mount for a stop at one of the many dining, drinking, and lodging options. You can’t go wrong with Rocky Mount Burger Company or Rocky Mount Smokehouse for some much-needed home cooking and NC-style barbecue. Quench your thirst with local spirits from Twin Creeks Distillery, featuring weekly old-time jams, or with freshly made cocktails from Anastasia’s Speakeasy, and a prohibition-themed experience. For the history buffs, the Booker T. Washington National Monument and the Blue Ridge Institute and Farm Museum are worth a visit. Wind down the day next to Smith Mountain Lake with a concert at Coves Amphitheater, world-class fishing, and lakefront lodging.

VisitFranklinCountyVA.com

JAMISON MILL PARK VALLEY FALLS STATE PARK VALLEY FALLS STATE PARK COLASESSANO’S PIZZA WAID PARK USA CYCLING AMATEUR ROAD NATIONALS

THE TOP BIKING TRAILS ON VIRGINIA’S EASTERN SHORE

Welcome to a world of trails, wildlife, and beautiful scenery on Virginia’s Eastern Shore. Strap on your helmet and explore the best the area has to offer on two wheels.

For a fun and beautiful ride, visit the Eastern Shore of Virginia National Wildlife Refuge to hop on the Southern Tip Bike and Hike Trail. This five-mile paved trail runs parallel to Route 13 and leads directly to the refuge’s educational visitor center. For a full day, follow the Butterfly Trail to a World War II cannon and marsh overlook.

At Kiptopeke State Park , spend the day exploring the well-known concrete ships, a gorgeous beach, a playground, a fishing pier, observational points, and eight scenic trails. Named after various birds, the trails signify the many species that fly through the area. Although the majority of these trails are not paved, there are many areas to safely bike throughout the park. Walk through maritime forests

and listen to the Chesapeake Bay lap the shorelines just below. As you head back to your campsite, stop at the Butterfly Garden to see the monarchs during their biannual migration or explore the Coastal Virginia Wildlife Observatory’s Hawk Watch Platform.

Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge is a true gem in the area. If you enter by bike, it is free to access with plenty of scenic areas to experience on two wheels. The Wildlife Loop is a paved 3.25-mile loop around a marshy area called Snow Goose Pool and is perfect for biking, photography, and bird watching. Many trails break off of the loop, including Swan Cove Trail, which will take you to Assateague Island’s beach, and Marsh Trail, which leads to

a scenic overlook of the marsh. Pedal through the island’s pine forest to Assateague Point on the Woodland Trail. Keep an eye out for woodpeckers among the trees and a view of the wild Chincoteague Ponies.

Plan your visit around one of the Shore’s major biking events. Le Tour de Shore, put on in June, features a variety of distances through picturesque towns and along the water. Whether you’re up for 25 kilometers or 100 miles, you’ll find a bike is the best way to see all the area has to offer.

In October, the CBES Between the Waters Bike Tour takes you along the longest stretch of

natural coastline left on the East Coast. Celebrate the event’s completion with a classic oyster roast and live music.

There’s so much to explore beyond the trails and rolling backroads. The Eastern Shore is a birdwatcher’s paradise. The peninsula acts as a funnel, pushing birds through the area as they navigate the Avian Flyway during fall migration. Visit one of 22 stops on the Virginia Bird and Wildlife Trail for sights of diverse wildlife or book a guided excursion to one of the wildlife refuges and barrier islands to see these creatures take to the skies.

Then it’s time to check out the wide range of artisans who call the Eastern Shore home. You’ll find painters, sculptors, glassblowers, woodcarvers, and everyone in between finding inspiration from this coastal haven. The Artisans Guild of the Eastern Shore is hosting their 21st annual studio tour at the end of November, providing a unique opportunity to see all of the artists at work and enjoy a taste of local wines.

Discover Virginia’s natural coast in a whole new way as you explore by bike, watch the incredible wildlife, and meet the artists that call the Eastern Shore home!

VisitESVA.com

MORE TO EXPLORE
BIKING ON THE CHINCOTEAGUE NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE AN EGRET WALKING IN THE WATER | CAMERON DAVIDSON
GLASS ARTWORK IN PROCESS AT HIGH POINT GLASSWORKS CREDITED TO THE ARTISANS GUILD OF THE EASTERN SHORE OF VIRGINIA. AN EGRET WALKING IN THE WATER | CAMERON DAVIDSON

BIKE INTO FALL IN

ROCKINGHAM COUNTY, VA

Trample fallen leaves and enjoy the cooler temps on an autumn bike ride in Rockingham County, Virginia. Home to Shenandoah National Park and the George Washington National Forest, you are guaranteed to fall in love with all of the biking options here.

TUNE IN AND TEAR UP THE TRAILS IN GALAX, VA

While it is still warm enough, piece together a route near the South Fork of the Shenandoah River to explore picturesque county roads, charming towns, and the option to paddle or tube after a long ride. For more water activities, be sure to check out Switzer Lake and Lake Shenandoah, which offer great fishing, boating, picnicking, and hiking opportunities. For those looking for speedy descents, the Massanutten Western Slope is the perfect place for you. Explore over 30 miles of mountain bike trails with sweet singletrack, technical features, and endless twists and turns. Ideal for intermediate and advanced riders, you are sure to fine-tune your skills on trails like Laird’s Loop, Puzzler, and Skill’s Kitchen. For a loop with a little bit of everything, Narrowback Mountain Loop Trail in George Washington National Forest will be sure to satisfy. This 15-mile, mostly singletrack route includes ridgeline riding, rocky sections, and a memorable descent. Make your bike trip even better with a stop at one of the many fall festivals in the area. The Massanutten Fall Festival takes

place on Saturday, October 14 and features live music, kids activities, arts and crafts vendors, a beer and wine garden, scenic chairlift rides, and more! Visit all the unique downtown shops and discover the town of Dayton at the Dayton Days Autumn Celebration, happening Saturday, October 7, or head to the Elkton Autumn Days occurring October 21 to 22, for even more local artists and vendors.

For some additional fall fun in Rockingham County, pick some fresh apples at Showalter’s Orchard or Cross Keys Farm. Or, choose your own pumpkin and frolic through the sunflowers and corn mazes at Back Home on the Farm, Every Soul Acres, and The Farm at Court Manor. With so many great options, you will be feeling the fall spirit.

After your biking and fall activities are done, eat outside at Thirsty’s Burgers, adjacent to Massanutten Resort, at the Harvest Table in Dayton, or Memo’s Wings in Elkton. Lil’ Guss’ Grill is also a solid option in Grottoes, which serves craft beers and good ol’ American cooking.

VisitRockingham.com

Take a trip to the “World Capital of Old Time Mountain Music” in southwestern Virginia for some top-notch Bluegrass, brews, and biking. Located just seven miles from the Blue Ridge Parkway, the charming small town of Galax has plenty of outdoor activities to offer. So tune up your bike, grab your gear, and get ready for an unforgettable day in the saddle.

For those looking for a flat, easy bike ride, the local section of the 57-mile New River Trail is your best bet. Following an abandoned railroad right-of-way, the trail passes right through Galax, making it easy to hop on and off. Here you can also fish, horseback ride, hike, and camp in primitive campsites. Stop for a picnic at Chestnut Creek Falls, which is a beautiful little waterfall between Galax and Fries Junction on the trail, and a perfect spot to cool off and relax.

If ripping through dirt is your calling, then Matthews State Forest Park is more your flow. Situated just west of Galax, the 566acre park offers about 8 miles of moderate to difficult singletrack for everyone to enjoy. Hunting and hiking are also popular in this

forest, so be sure to review permit and park requirements before your visit. Grayson Highlands State Park offers tons of hiking trails and scenic overlooks less than an hour away from Galax.

If you are short on gear, New River Trail Outfitters is sure to have what you are looking for, and Tizzy Lizzy Dog Grooming & Boutique is the perfect place to take your four-legged family members after a long day outside. Grab a bite and brew at Creek Bottom Brewery, or some hearty barbecue at the iconic Galax Smokehouse. Wine, snacks and food can also be enjoyed at Chapters Bookshop

For some off-the-bike entertainment, catch a music event at the Historic Rex Theater, or shop in many of the unique local shops with one-of-a-kind handmade, artisan items. Learn about local cultural heritage at the Matthews Living History Farm Museum, and be sure to check out the local Farmers Market, open every Thursday and Saturday featuring kids’ activities, music, food trucks, local produce, and handmade items. If this is all music to your ears, head down to Galax for a biking getaway of a lifetime.

VisitGalax.com

THE NEW RIVER TRAIL IS GREAT FOR WALKING OR BIKING ALONG THE NEW RIVER AND IS PET FRIENDLY. NARROWBACK MOUTAIN TRAIL –GEORGE WASHINGTON NATIONAL FOREST THUNDERBIRD CAFÉ FALL OFFERS SPECTACULAR VIEWS ALONG THE BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY. BEARFENCE MOUNTAINSHENANDOAH NATIONAL PARK

BIKE THE BORDER IN BRISTOL TN/VA

Bristol is also home to Bristol Casino: The Future Home of Hard Rock. The 30,000-squarefoot temporary gaming floor currently features 870 gaming selections, including table games, slot machines, Baccarat, blackjack, craps, three-card poker, roulette, restaurants, and much more!

You can’t miss a trip to the Birthplace of Country Music Museum located in historic Downtown Bristol, which tells the story of the 1927 Bristol Sessions –recordings that were influential in shaping early commercial country music’s sounds and practices.

Downtown Bristol, home of iconic State Street, Tennessee and Virginia’s official state line, is a visitor hub. You’ll love seeing the famous Bristol Sign, the Paramount Theater, specialty shops, breweries and distilleries, and galleries, and enjoying lots of live music. There’s also the Axe & Ale House and Pins and Friends, two great family fun and nightlife options!

State, Black Bird Bakery, Southern Churn, Stateline Grille, and Union 41. If you’re really in the mood for shopping, The Pinnacle, the region’s largest shopping center, is packed with dozens of shopping, dining, and entertainment options anchored by Bass Pro, Belk, and Pinnacle 12 by Marquee Cinemas. In addition, The Falls in Bristol, VA is another shopping and entertainment hotspot for visitors.

With the incomparable Appalachian Mountains for a backdrop, Bristol is known for its incredible outdoor beauty and is one of Northeast Tennessee and Southwest Virginia’s most exquisite gems. A rich musical heritage, a world-renowned racing facility, a casino, and some of the friendliest people you’ll ever meet make it a perfect destination for your next great adventure! ExploreBristol.com

NEW TRAILS AND ADDITIONAL FUN

Featuring more than 40 square miles of inland lakes, rivers, and freshwater streams in the area, South Holston Lake and Holston River are a must. If you’re into nature, it doesn’t get much better. Bring your fishing gear because these waters are full of trout, bass, catfish, crappie, and more. Fly fishermen, in particular, flock to the fabled weir dam, an angler’s paradise.

The lake area is also a popular biking/hiking spot. The Tennessee Valley Authority recently unveiled four new multi-use trails, all considered easy, allowing them to be used by those with disabilities and inexperienced hikers and bikers. Biking and mountain biking

can also be enjoyed along the Mendota Trail, Steele Creek Park, and Sugar Hollow Park Steele Creek and Sugar Hollow offer various other activities, including disc golf, picnic shelters, and playgrounds. Steele Creek also features golf, a lake, a splash pad, paddle boats, and a train for kids, while Sugar Hollow has camping, a pool, a wetlands trail, and soccer and softball fields.

TAKE ON THE TOWN

Once you pull yourself away from Bristol’s outdoor beauty, there’s plenty of other fun to enjoy. Bristol Motor Speedway, one of NASCAR’s most popular tracks, is a must, as is having your photo taken in front of the “It’s Bristol Baby” sign which sits right outside the massive track.

Hungry? Bristol has lots to choose from - from 5-star restaurants like J Frank to other locally owned and popular spots like The Angry Italian, Burger Bar, 620 on

Before you head out, stop by Bristol Caverns, one of the city’s oldest and most stunning attractions, which features three levels of caverns and an underground river.

BRISTOL BY NIGHT EXPLORE BRISTOL, JARED KREISS PHOTOGRAPHY HARD ROCK BRISTOL CASINO

A BICYCLING BASECAMP IN

CHARLOTTESVILLE & ALBEMARLE COUNTY, VA

At the base of the Blue Ridge Mountains, rural routes, gravel roads, and area trails beckon for bike riders. With the mountains to the west, and farms and orchards dotted throughout, Charlottesville and Albemarle County provide the perfect scenic backdrop for a two-wheeled cruise.

GET RIDING IN GEORGETOWN & SCOTT COUNTY, KY

Located in the very heart of Horse Country, Georgetown, Kentucky offers adventurous travelers an experience of a lifetime. Rolling bluegrass pastures reveal scenic roadways lined with old-stone fences. The winding waterways of Elkhorn Creek beckon for kayakers and anglers. And the abundant forestland provides rough and tumble recreation for mountain bikers.

maintained by volunteers from the Bluegrass Chapter of the Kentucky Mountain Bike Association, so be sure to take advantage of their generous contributions!

Albemarle County has a little something for all skill levels!

Beginner and intermediate mountain bikers will love riding at Preddy Creek Park, home to some of the most fun and flowiest trails around. Newbies and experts alike can delight in the diverse loops and varying difficulty at Walnut Creek Park, where you can cool off in the lake after a warm summer ride.

For some flow a little closer to the city of Charlottesville, head to Heyward Community Forest. Local trail groups are hard at work to build and maintain these singletrack trails for everyone to enjoy. The Rivanna Trail circumnavigates the city for a total of 21 miles, making it easily accessible from most areas of town. Use this trail system to get some miles on your legs, and relax in the Rivanna River to recharge. The Annual Loop de’Ville Festival takes place on the Rivanna Trail every September during National Public Lands Day. This two-

day, free event offers three group rides, guided hikes and trail runs, and a free outdoor concert with local food and craft beverages, hosted at the Rivanna River Company

Take a guided tour with Blue Ridge Bicycle Tours, rent a bike at Blue Ridge Cyclery, or stop at one of the many gear shops in town like High Tor Gear Exchange, a locally-owned shop that promotes a circular economy.

BONUS ADVENTURES

For a great post-ride libation, unwind at one of the 40+ wineries along the Monticello Wine Trail, or at one of the many local breweries, cideries, and distilleries. Great food options are plentiful throughout the area and many are very close to trail systems. From luxurious resorts, your favorite chain hotels, cozy inns and B&Bs, plus a selection of vacation rentals, cabins, and cottages, you’ll be sure to find a place to call home for the night. Plan your stay today!

VisitCharlottesville.org.

Situated between Stamping Ground and Sadieville, Skullbuster Trails is the premier mountain biking trail network in Scott County. This trail system features nearly 12 miles of moderately difficult trails dotted with limestone rocks, rooty sections, hidden meadows and lots of natural and humanmade challenges. The entire trail system is

RIDE AND RELAX AT THE INN AT FOSTER FALLS, VA

Tackle new bike adventures during the day, and cozy up next to the fireplace at night at The Inn at Foster Falls in Wythe County, Virginia. Located in the scenic New River Valley, this boutique hotel offers visitors free access to the New River Trail for endless biking and recreational activities.

Start the day in Thee Draper Village. Visit Draper Mercantile “Merc” circa 1887 and enjoy an amazing homemade breakfast or lunch. Inside the Merc are various shoppes, fresh baked desserts, a chocolate bar, and a full service coffee shoppe. A short walk next door, you’ll find Draper Blooms Tea Garden serving full tea services as well as The Curious Quill shoppe, carrying unique gifts and unusual finds. Continue your pre-ride preparations in the Nationally Registered Labyrinth, made for mindfulness, before renting a bike from The Junction. Now that you feel zen, you’re ready to roll! The 55-mile New River Trail connects the Village to the Inn at Foster Falls, making for the perfect day cruise. The trail follows along the New River and Claytor Lake, which offer beach

When you’re done ripping through Kentucky dirt, take a leisurely stroll through the zen-like walking trails of Yuko-En on the Elkhorn, saddle up and ride some horses at Whispering Woods Riding Stables, or explore the various fun farm attractions. Chow down at an eclectic selection of locally owned Georgetown restaurants, bars, and dessert shops, or sit back and enjoy a local brew at Country Boy Brewing. Riders can enjoy all this and more in Georgetown/Scott County, Kentucky!

GeorgetownKY.com

access, and boating and rafting opportunities. The brick-clad Inn is located at the midpoint of the trail, and has 10 rooms with unique themes and personal touches, a wrap-around porch, and an intimate setting with Foster Falls flowing nearby. Pamper yourself with a night at the Inn or at least stop by to enjoy the dining experience to refuel and enjoy the serene atmosphere.

Head back to Thee Draper Village for ice cream at “The Conery”, a new addition next to Draper Community Park opening this fall. The kids will love the park’s playground, especially after a cold treat! Rest your head at the Inn or at one of many New River Retreat vacation waterfront homes for a complete experience.

StayInnFosterFalls.com

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Explore 406 square miles of wonder. Just across the river from Washington, DC, you’ll find much more in Northern Virginia. More hidden gems. More historic sites. More parks. And more connections. From George Washington’s Mount Vernon to a Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, plan your affordable stay – less than a tank away – in Fairfax County, and love every mile. Visit FXVA.com to discover much more.

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WISDOM ON THE WATER

At 91, Pennsylvania kayaking mentor

Dave Kurtz is still teaching younger paddlers.

PENNSYLVANIA TO IDAHO IS a long road trip, especially for a Honda Civic with hundreds of thousands of miles behind it.

It was the summer of 1996, and Robbie Fulton was 13 years old. He only started paddling a few months prior, in April, after a man came to his middle school in State College, Pa., and gave a presentation on slalom boating. That man was now behind the wheel, driving him to Idaho. His name was Dave Kurtz.

Kurtz was a coach. In central Pennsylvania, he was the coach, and Robbie had been taken by the pitch he delivered at his school. A few days later, Robbie reported to Bellefonte, Pa., climbed into one of Kurtz’s handmade slalom boats, and pushed off into the Spring Creek for the first time.

It was a disaster.

“I wasn’t in the water but 30 minutes and I flipped 15 times,” says Fulton. “Paddling really didn’t come natural to me. It took a lot of work and a lot of practice, but I loved it so much that I stuck with it and worked really hard to become the paddler I am now.”

Under Kurtz’s tutelage, Fulton worked hard. He learned. He improved. He still couldn’t roll, but his balance and strokes had progressed to a level where, by that summer, he was ready to compete at junior nationals in Idaho. Kurtz, Fulton, and another local boy loaded up the coach’s old Civic and set off across the torso of America. They had made it about halfway and were passing through a small Minnesota lake town when the car broke down.

Too far from either State College or Idaho, they could only wait. But there was a lake nearby, and thus,

there was an opportunity. Kurtz and the boys pulled the boats from the decommissioned car and pushed out into the flat water. It would be a pivotal session for Fulton.

“Dave just took me out in middle of a lake and taught me how to roll out there,” he remembers. “Because every time I got out of the boat I had to swim to shore. After I think the third time of that, I learned how to roll.”

Both the teacher and student still paddle today, Fulton at age 39 and Kurtz at…91. The former is an environmental scientist, while the latter continues to coach, helping central Pennsylvania youth get into the area’s growing community of adult boaters.

“There are so many Dave Kurtz alumni paddlers in the State College area,” says Fulton. “I feel like we have this great little whitewater community in State College that probably wouldn’t exist without him.”

Kurtz arrived in State College for graduate school in September of 1954. His campus tour guide, a member of the Penn State Outing Club, invited him to come along for a river cruise that first weekend on the west branch of the Susquehanna. Kurtz accepted. It was the beginning of an era.

“I ended up paddling every weekend in 1954, and I haven’t stopped since,” says Kurtz

In the years that followed, Kurtz would qualify for four separate World Championships. He would take part in the first descent of the upper section of the Youghiogheny

River. By hand, he built some of the first fiberglass-decked canoes in the United States. In 1964, he founded Sunnyside Paddling Park on Spring Creek, where he focused on coaching and mentoring aspiring paddlers.

Kurtz gained his first teaching experience through the Outing Club, and as the years progressed he developed his own system for coaching and branched out to working with State College youth. He estimates the number of Dave Kurtz alumni to be somewhere in the hundreds.

“I never married and had kids of my own, but one of the reasons I spend time coaching is that when these kids are with me, they’re my kids,” he says. “I’m responsible for them. I’m seeing how they react to interesting situations and how they learn to, well, be a good boater.”

The secret to his effective coaching is the fact that the sport did not come easily to him. He can relate to kids like Robbie Fulton who struggle to stay upright upon their first introduction to moving water.

“I was a slow learner, so it took me a while to learn some of the techniques of paddling,” Kurtz says of his early days with the Penn State Outing Club. “But, I went on a number of river trips back then, almost every weekend when they were offered. You build up some technique eventually so that you get better and you can handle more difficult water.”

Kurtz has founded several teams and instructional clubs, the most recent iteration being the Mach One Slalom Team, which he started in

2000 with the intention of working with teenagers on the technical elements of slalom competition.

Kurtz’s assistant coach, 22-yearold Alden Henrie, is a Mach One product and one of the team’s strongest testaments. Like Robbie Fulton, Henrie struggled his first time in the water, but under Kurtz’s watch, he worked his way up the ladder of proficiency. Since his first introduction to the sport in the late aughts, Henrie has competed in two Junior World Championships and two U-23 World Championships. He made his third and final U-23 championship appearance this past August in Poland.

“If it wasn’t for Dave, if it wasn’t for the slalom course in Bellefonte that he first put up, there wouldn’t have been anyone from central PA getting anywhere close to being able to compete on the national slalom team,” says Henrie.

Kurtz’s work extends beyond the riverbanks. He recently put the finishing touches on a paddling museum that will open soon near Spring Creek and he has plans for a new Mach One Clubhouse overlooking the slalom course. It’s a plateful, but he doesn’t let it cut into his coaching time. Take a trip out to Spring Creek on any given day and you will find the 91-year-old coach whisking across the water in a boat of his own design, weaving through the slalom gates as if he were a 22-year-old graduate student. Teaching, but still learning. The river is his classroom and nothing, not projects nor age nor Minnesota marooning, will keep him from it.

SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 51
PHOTO BY LUKE VARGAS
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CUP CHASERS

Spread across five locations from the mountains to the piedmont, the Commonwealth Cup race series brings together a range of riders from the Virginia mountain bike scene, including world-class athletes and weekend warriors. But on these rugged courses, the vibe is camaraderie over competitive edge.

DENNIS DEMPSEY’S BODY IS BROKEN, BUT he can’t stay away from Virginia singletrack. Once a competitive mountain bike racer, Dempsey, who works at a D.C. think tank, now deals with the aftereffects of a cervical spine injury, which initially resulted in him losing the use of most of the right side of his body. Surgeries have helped, but he’ll never be 100 percent again.

With his time in the saddle limited, he decided to channel his love of the sport into a new pursuit—organizing races.

“I can go like a bandit for 45 minutes, but I’m never going to compete at Cat 1 the way I used to,” Dempsey said in the staccato accent of his native Philadelphia. “This is my way of staying involved.”

And stay involved he has. Earlier this year, Dempsey started the Commonwealth Cup, a series of five races running May through July that showcases some of the best mountain biking in Virginia, including the Western Slope of Massanutten, the winding foothills of Goochland County, and extensive trail systems at Douthat State Park, which holds a designated IMBA Epic Ride.

Under the umbrella of RVA Racing, and with the help of longtime riders Kyle Inman and Chris Scott, Dempsey put together the series to help unify the Virginia mountain bike scene. He’s pulled in some old school classic races, including the Massunutten Hoo-Ha, with newer events like the Rockabilly Rumble in Palmyra.

In just its first year, almost 350 riders lined up for races in the Commonwealth Cup series, with fields that included sponsored juniors,

NICA all-stars, 20-something beginners, and Cat 1 masters.

As the series progressed, the races became more than competitions; they were community events where old friends reunited and friendly rivalries were established. Donuts were shared on podiums and series winners were crowned.

Dempsey has seen fierce rivalries turn into hugs at the finish line and watched teams share nutrition and even at least one full bike.

The Cup’s community is a fun Breakfast Club of mountain bikers—a grassroots group of moms, dads, unicyclists, teachers, kids, self-proclaimed weirdos, and desk-strapped professionals. And if Demspey can’t be out there riding himself,

bringing this group together is the next best thing.

“From the starting line to the finish line, everyone’s rooting for you, even if they’re competing with you,” he said.

The Teacher

Sydney Wenger, a Dirt Camp Racing rider and Bike Flights ambassador, started the series by winning the Expert Women’s race at Middle Mountain Momma at Douthat State Park.

Based out of Roanoke, Wenger is a teacher who’s been on a bike her whole life but didn’t start competing until she got burned out on competitive swimming.

SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 53
COMMONWEALTH CUP RACER MICAH JEWELL. PHOTO COURTESY OF DENNIS DEMPSEY

LY H W E lCO me S YO u

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Wenger, who races at the UCI level, was anxious at the start line of Middle Mountain Momma (MMM), which can be a grueling affair. The course is 18 miles (or 20 depending on what map you look at) and climbs 4,000 feet. Most cyclists consider 100 feet per mile a challenging ride. Paying to race 200 feet per mile takes a special kind of rider.

The trails in Douthat State Park, one of the first six original Virginia state parks, only add to the difficulty. Most of them were cut by hand during the Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps. They’re tight, rocky, and wind under rhododendron tunnels. These aren’t the manicured dirt highways you may see folks ripping on Youtube. MMM runs on proper backwoods trails.

“I’d done the race one time before. I’m incredibly directionally challenged and I messed up the course, so I was nervous going into it this time,” Wenger said. There was little need for concern, as Wenger nailed her nutrition strategy and took the win.

That racers of Wenger’s caliber come out for a local affair is a testament to the quality of events in the Blue Ridge. But it’s also the people who motivate Wenger to show up.

She appreciates the way cyclists in the region look out for each other and host events like a Thanksgiving ride to source food for those in need. Biking friends also helped get her through

the brutal Chamois Shredder route after a couple attempts.

“It’s a great community here,” she said. “I feel like everyone here is so welcoming.”

The Local Legend

Jeremiah Bishop’s resume is extensive and impressive: two-time US National Champion, Alpine Grand Loop Fondo founder, Pan American gold medal winner, Canyon ambassador, cofounder of the Impossible Routes.

He’s also the 2023 winner of the Pro/Expert race at the Massunutten Hoo-Ha, one of the longest running races, now in the state in its 34th

year. The Hoo-Ha is held on the Western Slope of Massanutten, a fun playground for mountain bikers. The trails on the Western Slope start nice and easy at the bottom of the hill. At the top of the mountain they’re chunky and gnarly and with epic rock features and punchy descents that pull the standard “yew” noise of joy out of bikers as they fly down them.

Bishop has plenty of wins at high-profile national events, but he always makes time to support local races and he’s clear about what keeps him coming out.

“I think it’s the community really,” he said, noting the long and deep history of some of the

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DENNIS DEMPSEY GETS RIDERS IN THE COMMONWEALTH CUP READY TO RACE. PHOTO COURTESY OF DEMPSEY
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races in the Commonwealth Cup. “It’s the longest collection of races running in the country with several of them being 35 years plus running.”

Bishop sees the commitment of regional riders and the web of trail networks built with care and passion as the defining feature of the Blue Ridge.

“There’s an unspoken agreement that you help build and keep the trails in good shape, and keep the trails in good order,” he said. “Our scene is grassroots and it’s very much activity-based. We have some of the most fun trails, races, and rides in the country.”

The Mechanic

Micah Jewell likes to go fast. He lined up for every race of the Commonwealth Cup this year for Pedal Power RVA, the shop where he works as a mechanic. He spends his Tuesday nights racing crits for Car6on Racing, a team based out of Richmond dedicated to bringing more diversity to the sport.

Jewell is just 22 and seems to know everyone at the races. To the juniors he’s the fast Cat 1 guy who knows everything about bikes. To the masters he’s very much the faster little brother whose maturity belies his age (most of the time; he does have a penchant for terrible jokes and bristles when middle-aged men use Gen Z slang).

His mom was the motivating force behind him getting on a bike. “I started mountain

biking because my mom wanted us to do something outside together instead of me being inside playing video games,” he said. “So we all got bikes and started riding at Pocahontas State Park.”

Jewell won the Expert open category in the series and said there’s a lot to like about the cup.

“We’re doing some of the biggest races in the state of Virginia,” he added. “The courses are all amazing. They’re tailored to different riding styles whether you like classic XC trails or chunky rocky stuff.”

The Coach and Course Designer

The course at Rockabilly Rumble, the last race of the Commonwealth Cup that ran in July, is special to John Petrylak. Not only because the race was on his local trails at Pleasant Grove Park, but also because he designed the course.

“I was able to put together a good mix of fun, fast, and challenging trails,” he said. “It’s gotta be fun for the person that this is their first race and for the person that it’s their hundredth.”

Petrylak knows the racers in Virginia well since he coaches many of them through the J. Petrylak Coaching Academy.

“The people that race mountain bikes in Virginia are really the best part. We’re a big

family. We always stop and help each other out. We’re there to support each other. We’re there to challenge each other. We’ll hurt you on the race course, but we’ll hug ya at the end.”

You can learn more about the series and register for next year’s races at rvaracingevents.com.

SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 57
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Downhill, cross country and short track racing along with the first UCI marathon race — watch it all when the UCI Mountain Biking World Series returns to Pocahontas County from September 26th to October 1st. After the races, explore 11,000 acres of adventure in Pocahontas County.

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THE BLUE RIDGE’S BIGGEST BADASS IS A BALLROOM DANCER

Q&A with Naked and Afraid survivalist Anthony Coppage

ANTHONY COPPAGE DEFIES THE odds—and stereotypes. Brawny and muscular, covered in tattoos, Coppage has worked for years in elite security providing executive protection. However, he gave it all up for his nine-year-old daughter, and he now works as a ballroom dancer near Waynesville, N.C.

Coppage was also Southern Appalachia’s first and only contestant in Naked and Afraid, a survival reality show on The Discovery Channel. Participants are paired up and sent into the wilderness to survive for 21 days completely naked. They must forage or hunt for their food, construct shelters, build fires, and avoid deadly predators.

Coppage first appeared in Season 8, where he was dropped on a Brazilian island. After four days, Coppage became so dehydrated that he was medically evacuated. But he was given a shot at redemption this year in Season 15, which took place in the South African desert.

Even though Coppage has decades of bushcraft skills and experience, he says that the most important part of survival is managing your mind. Coppage shares with BRO his mental approach, previous mistakes, and what it’s like to strip naked on camera.

BRO: Why did you choose to live in Western North Carolina?

AC: I had been working security contracting in Vegas, where everyone is the worst version of themselves. I was throwing people out of clubs, rescuing prostitutes, fighting sex traffickers. Then my daughter was born. Daughters wreck you. They steal your heart. I quickly decided that I was not raising her in Vegas. So I opened a map and looked for places where

there were forests and mountains. Site unseen, I packed up my RV and drove across the country to Waynesville, N.C. My daughter and I lived in an RV park by a creek for several months while I figured things out.

BRO: How did you become a ballroom dancer?

AC: Working security, I had done everything from executive protection to anti-piracy. There was a lot of violence. I have broken my ribs and my nose several times. Thankfully, I have also been able to save a few lives along the way. But all that started to weigh heavily on me. I started seeing everyone as threats or victims. I built barriers around myself and cut off friends and relationships.

I had to make a change. I went all in on ballroom dancing, and eventually I ended up competing professionally. When I moved to Western North Carolina, I opened a ballroom dance studio—American Ballroom Company. Ballroom dancing instantly breaks down barriers and puts you in contact with people right away. You get to hold someone in your arms. When I am dancing, I am completely in the moment.

BRO: How did you apply to Naked and Afraid ?

AC: I had never watched the show, but I had done a lot of search and rescue, rock climbing, and mountaineering. The show reached out to one of my colleagues and asked if I might be interested. I didn’t think I would do well. I felt like I had used up all of my luck in this life staying alive while working security. I applied, but I treated it as kind of a joke.

But then I got a call asking, 'Can you pack up and go in four weeks?' All I knew was Brazil. I trained

hard for my first appearance, and I expected the Brazilian Amazon. After a month, I was jungle-trained. Then they dropped me on an island.

BRO: What did you do differently in preparing for your second appearance?

AC: In Brazil, I pushed it too hard and too quickly. I was going as hard as I could searching for food, and I overdid it. I ended up completely dehydrated on day four. I didn’t want to tap out. I wanted to set a good example for my daughter. I wanted to show her how to overcome adversity. But I had become so dehydrated that the medics couldn’t even get an IV in my collapsing veins.

After that experience, I was really disappointed. I rarely talked about it. To feel like I failed at something just tore me up. Worst of all was the idea that my daughter would see this.

I waited five years for a shot at redemption. Finally, this year, I got another call, and a few weeks later, I was on a flight to South Africa. This time, I didn’t train at all, other than walking around barefoot to build calluses on my feet. Most of survival success is mental, I’ve learned. You need some basic skills, but mostly it’s a mental game.

BRO: Did you gain weight ahead of time?

AC: I put on a lot of weight. For a month before, I ate peanut butter and avocados—and also ice cream and junk food. It’s garbage weight that burns off quickly, especially for me. The more muscle you carry, the more energy expenditure you have.

BRO: What was it like to be naked in front of the camera and other people?

AC: The first five minutes are the weirdest. The camera crew,

the production assistants—are they staring at me? I had to strip down and then have a normal conversation as I was being filmed. But the awkwardness goes away shockingly quick.

BRO: At age 51, you are one of the older participants. Was that a factor at all?

AC: Age is just a number. People don’t start dying until they stop living. A lot of people just exist. They don’t really live.

BRO: Do you stay in touch with any of the other participants?

AC: We talk often—probably every few days. Even though it was only 21 days, we were together 24 hours a day. It was intense, and it brought us closer than most people ever get to experience.

BRO: Were there any moments in your second appearance when you thought about quitting?

AC: This was my personal trophy: I can say 100% that I never once doubted myself. It’s what I am most proud of. I was not going to let my daughter down.

I saw others go dark. When they start focusing on the pain, they tend to keep sliding down the dark tunnel. For this second time, my focus was on managing my head.

BRO: Does your Naked and Afraid experience stick with you when you return home, or does it fade after a while?

AC: I think it stains your soul. I don’t think about it every day, but I know it’s always there. Whatever else may come and go, redemption is permanent. Probably the best part is my daughter’s reaction. She now says, “Let’s do the Naked and Afraid challenge. I want to be partnered with you. But let’s bring sleeping bags. And snacks.”

SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 59
PHOTO COURTESY OF ANTHONY COPPAGE
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THE OUT AND BACK GREAT ESCAPE

A QUICK GETAWAY

EVERY PARENT OCCASIONALLY thinks about faking their own death. They’re lying if they say they’ve never considered it. Parenting is hard. Marriage is hard. It’s only natural to want a little escape, so sometimes, yeah, I think about staging a car fire, changing my name, and living in a medium-sized midwestern town in an apartment where I don’t have to clean the gutters and shuttle seven kids to soccer practice twice a day. Other times, I fantasize about getting arrested for some benign, nonviolent crime like insider trading so I have to spend 18 months in a country club prison reading books and working out. Alone. That would be nice.

Nothing makes me want to fake my own death like a family camping trip. Because there is no parental duty more difficult in the modern world than trying to survive with a family of four in the woods for three days. I’ve heard the Shackleton Expedition was troublesome, but did he have to squeeze three different kinds of milks into a cooler because everyone in his family has different dairy requirements? Did Shackleton have to bring an extra chair for his dog to sit in? Did Shackleton’s wife insist he bring an extra tent just so she could have a place to stand up and change clothes because his rooftop tent wasn’t big enough? Did Shackleton have to deal with those sorts of logistical nightmares? I think not.

My family and I recently spent three nights car camping and I had to bring a rooftop tent, a truck bed full of gear and just for good measure, more gear stuffed into a separate trailer. I once spent a month driving and camping across the Western U.S. in a four-door VW Jetta with a single backpack and a mountain bike, and now I can’t go into the woods for a weekend without renting a U-Haul truck.

And when I say “gear,” I mean things like a duffel bag full of shoes

for my wife, a sleeping bag for the dog (in addition to his own chair), and for some reason, every single beach towel we own. Each kid had their own tent, and even though my wife and I were sleeping in a comfy rooftop number, she insisted I bring a separate tent tall enough for her to change in while standing up. Then there's all of the cooking gear, two massive rotomolded coolers, a doormat(!), every single item of clothing from our closets, volleyballs, soccer balls, snorkels, tables, a tailgating tent for shade…

It's a lot of stuff, and someone must pack all that stuff, and set up all that stuff at the campsite, and take down all that stuff, and unpack all that stuff and clean all that stuff. Sure, my wife and kids always have fun once we get out into the middle of the woods, but is it worth all that effort? Honestly, most camping weekends leave me feeling a little disappointed.

My expectations for the camping trip are admittedly higher than they should be. In my mind, we’ll catch wild trout for dinner, enjoy sunrise hikes as a family, discover a secret waterfall that hasn’t been dipped in since the days of the Cherokee, and I’d finish each night by regaling my wide-eyed kids with tales of the fish I caught earlier that morning. At the end of the weekend, my family would approach me as a group and ask in earnest if we could extend the camping trip for a few more days. Eventually, my children would become wilderness-based therapists because of the quality time we spent together on this weekend trip.

In reality, we eat mostly bags of chips and pre-made sandwiches from the grocery store, nobody wants to hang out at the fire with me because “it’s too buggy,” and I spend half of Sunday afternoon trying to jumpstart my truck because someone left the damned door open all weekend.

I’m starting to think it would be smarter to just take the family for a day hike, hit the BBQ place on the way home, and sleep in our beds with the windows open. That’s sort of like camping, right?

Fortunately, I’ve found a solution to all my family camping woes. It’s

called Cold Springs Basecamp, a collection of restored historic cabins tucked into the side of a mountain near Dupont State Forest, maybe 45 minutes from my house. It’s a cool property with a creek, waterfall, and a couple of miles of flowy bike trails right on site. Even better, there’s some world class mountain biking and road biking right out the door. You’ve got the singletrack at Dupont, but also the shuttle-served downhill trails of Ride Rock Creek and the e-bike friendly downhill trails of Kanuga, both of which are just a short drive from Cold Springs. But the real beauty of this place are the three-side shelters that come completely stocked with everything you need for comfortable camping. Imagine an Appalachian Trail-style shelter, except instead of mice, they have comfy beds, cooking gear, chairs, Goal Zero generators, and fresh water.

Do you realize how amazing camping can be if you don’t have to pack the gear you need to go camping? I recently organized a quick, last-minute getaway for a handful of dads and we all showed up to Cold Springs after work on a Monday evening ready to enjoy the great outdoors. And I literally mean, we just showed up. I packed a sleeping bag and a pillow and a bottle of whiskey. I didn’t even bother with a change of clothes.

One dude brought some bratwurst that we cooked over an open fire, and another brought beer and chips. Everything else was already in the shelter waiting for us. Cooking gear, sleeping platforms with mattresses, chairs, tables, there was even a writing desk in case we wanted to correspond with the families we left back in the city.

At some point, while sitting around the fire sipping whiskey, we started contemplating how many nights we could survive here at Cold Springs with the provisions we had on hand. We had already knocked back half of the whiskey and all of the bratwurst. There were some pretzels and a pack of spaghetti left. I gave us two more nights before we had to return to the real world. Three nights if we ration like a grandmother who lived through the Great Depression.

We knew we couldn’t make this respite last forever, and it was okay, because I couldn’t wait to come back to Cold Springs with my wife and kids. Sure, I’d still have to pack three types of milk and my wife would probably still bring a duffel bag full of shoes, but I think we could spend three nights in Cold Springs Base Camp with just a single truck full of gear. No U-Haul necessary. I might not have to fake my death after all.

SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 61
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PITTSBURGH SLAG HEAPS

WE ARE, INEVITABLY AND constantly, consumed by whatever we turn our attention to.

Sometimes it’s the light—the brightness of sun reflecting off the yellow beams of the 31st Street Bridge as you pound your pedals to beat traffic gliding over the Allegheny River or the headlights of oncoming cars as your tires thrum across the black iron grates of the Hot Metal Bridge over the Monongahela River at 1 a.m. on your way back from some house part on the South Side.

Sometimes it’s the snow that blankets a city you barely know and are seeing for the first time after having met a kid named Oliver who figured out how to get onto the highest balcony of the Cathedral of Learning 40 floors up by crawling out a window in a forgotten stairwell. That night the smoke we exhaled melted snow and we leaned out from the ledge and looked down at the sidewalks glittered in lamplight and traced car lights blinking in the blizzard trying to map a city neither of us knew, trying to figure out a way to navigate this new life clustered among people and concrete.

Sometimes it’s the unknown, the falling feeling of trusting in gravity and topography.

***

The city confused me. I knew how to walk the sidewalks and look both ways before crossing Forbes Ave. and to watch the skyline at sunset to find calm in the sprawl, but I saw the city only as someone merely visiting it, not living it. I couldn’t figure out its rhythm so I smoked cigarettes hoping they’d teach me how to breathe in that city air. I walked to class with headphones on, listening to Wilco’s “Yankee Hotel Foxtrot” thinking that the street offered only noise, not music. I smoked weed relentlessly, foggy and detached, muddled in my constant inner dialogue circling a self so insecure that it was convinced passing a joint was the only way to make friends. Everything was a blur and when it wasn’t, I made sure to smear

something across it. In the winter, I didn’t need to do much of that since the city smears itself in a perpetual briny gray mixture of snow, salt, and dark rivers. I felt safer and warmer during those months in that dull contentment of just existing.

Until sometime in the spring when I remembered I had brought my bike with me—an old Trek mountain bike—and took it out to ride around campus just for something to do that didn’t involve smoking or trying to impress someone when I saw a sign for Critical Mass taped to a telephone pole. Every last Thursday of the month, meet in front of Hillman Library, 7:30. That was tomorrow.

The next day I rode over to the parking lot towards the group of bikers and stopped near the edge,

SEPTEMBER 2023 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 63
PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKI COMMONS

not knowing how to enter spaces with so many people. There were the crust punk kids that rode bikes built from a hodgepodge of parts, the bike messengers with their fixies and sling packs, a few of us college kids from Pitt and Carnegie Mellon riding not-so-dirty bikes, and twenty-something working college graduates riding decked out commuter rigs with fenders and racks. The idea was simple: we ride together in a pack down the streets to make the drivers aware of us, to make our presence undeniable, and to hopefully build awareness for bikers and the need for bike lanes. There were two “leaders” that rode slightly ahead, positioning themselves in the middle of intersections to stop traffic. I rode safely in the middle, cushioned by other bikers from the honking cars and middle fingers as we made our way downtown and across the Andy Warhol Bridge, up through the aviary and whipping around the stadiums back across the Clemente Bridge towards Smithfield Bridge and into the Southside, and by this point I had fallen towards the back of the crowd and as we rolled across the Hot Metal Bridge with the Monongahela below us I looked upstream and there was Justin and we just laughed because riding bikes across bridges that hum under your tires is just so joyful. It was the first joy I felt in months, a

joy that came out of nowhere and everywhere, that grounded me in a moment with other people, that opened me up to the place I was in completely, without reservations, as I flew across those grates. I wanted to chase that joy, to feel it again and be consumed by it, so I kept riding my bike, mostly with Justin.

We’d meet up after class and ride around the city, most often with no destination in mind. It was the first time I discovered how many mysteries the city had. Every bridge ran over rivers that we always found our way down to so we could ride alongside them, and ravines we always descended into to find the lost parts of Pittsburgh that felt like little swaths of urban wilderness. Our bikes took us where we needed to go without us ever really knowing how we got there. The bicycle is a beautiful thing. Functional and practical, simple in its design and purpose. All you need is a bit of balance and you can pedal anywhere you want. It also builds community easily. When you ride with someone, you quickly fall into each other’s rhythms and movements. We learned how to weave in and out of traffic and which alleys were the steepest and which bars had good places to lock our bikes up outside of. We became consumed by the cadence of our pedal strokes and the joy in climbing steep inclines and resting

at the top with a new view of the skyline.

***

By our senior year we shared a house on Juliet Street, deep in South Oakland across the Boulevard of the Allies—a red brick row home with four rooms. By that point I had built up a single speed out of an old Fuji steel bike at Kraynick’s bike shop where you could go and work on your bike and Jerry would help troubleshoot problems and you’d spend a couple of bucks on brake cables and pads. I rode that thing all across the city—to class and to concerts, on night rides with Justin, where we’d find loose gravel along railroad tracks that’d take us along one of the rivers and its liminal light. We’d sit and drink cheap beer and I’d smoke my hand-rolled Bali Shag cigarettes and sometimes we talked, but mostly we’d just lean against our bikes watching the urban landscape unfold around us in the assuredness that at any moment we could just get on our bikes and ride somewhere new and find

something we’d never seen before. When we were feeling found and wanting to get lost, we’d ride through Schenley Park and Squirrel Hill into Frick Park and turn on lights we had strapped to our handlebars that only showed us what was exactly, immediately, in front of us. That little halo of light became our world. The dirt singletrack our tires rolled across became our focus and we finally were just, simply, in the moment, the wildness of the immediate. The more we rode the more we realized that joy was found right in front of us and the more you found it, the more you were consumed by it. My insecurity turned into wonder in those moments of feral laughter when I could feel the city in me as our wheels and bodies arced along its terrain and we became its topography, no longer apart from but part of

We’d make our way down to Fern Hollow Creek with our cadence matching the rhythm of water over rock and pound our pedals back uphill to the slag heaps across the ridge along Nine Mile Run where we’d stop at the top for the final descent. Blackness. Flickers of light on the Monongahela. Culm piles of old steel beams and concrete. My first taste of post-industrial wilderness. There was a moment when slag ended and river began, an edge, a crumble right before wheels took the ledge and rolled you over the slick slag and Oh! God! those blurring lights and your body bracing and you are falling and gravity consumes you and you cannot just exist here, no, you have to balance and bury the bike between your legs and touch the brake when you feel yourself lurching over your center and the front wheel turning relentlessly towards the horizontal plane becomes a mantra that leads you to wherever this terrain is taking you and somehow you smoothly make the angle where vertical meets flat and you’re parallel to the ground again, born into a slowing momentum, and then there’s a beer on the lips, a cigarette between fingers, and so much night, so much edge, so much joy, and you are consumed by the moment and consumed by the camaraderie and consumed by this beautiful place.

64 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS
“The dirt singletrack our tires rolled across became our focus and we finally were just, simply, in the moment, the wildness of the immediate.”
PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES
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OUR FAVORITE SONGS IN SEPTEMBER

New Music from the Blue Ridge and Beyond

EVERY MONTH OUR EDITORS

curate a playlist of new music, mainly focusing on independent artists from the South. In September we’re highlighting new tunes from Chris Stapleton and MJ Lenderman.

CHRIS STAPLETON

“White Horse”

Chris Stapleton is back with his first fresh set of tunes since 2020. “White Horse” is the initial look at his new album, “Higher,” which comes out November 10 and continues his work with acclaimed producer Dave Cobb. It’s a brawny country-rock tune with old-school 70s guitar riffs and Stapleton pleading for a lover’s patience in his bluesy howl. For fans of his growing catalog, it’s another consistent winner. – J.F.

ALEXA ROSE

“Passionate Kisses”

While we wait for a follow-up to Alexa Rose’s 2021 album “Headwaters,” the North Carolina singer-songwriter recently gave us a seasonally appropriate three-song EP, “Summer Break.” A highlight from the effort is this sparse acoustic take on Lucinda Williams’ “Passionate Kisses,” an Americana gem originally released in 1989 that was also made popular by Mary Chapin Carpenter in the early 90s. With just guitar and voice, Rose takes an approach much gentler than the rocking previous versions and accentuates the song’s timeless message of longing for true companionship. – J.F.

TRAVIS BOOK (FEATURING ANDERS BECK AND JON STICKLEY)

“Long Lonesome Day”

After the pandemic arrived in early 2020, Travis Book of the Infamous

Stringdusters invited friends to Asheville’s storied Grey Eagle for a combination of live performances and interviews that were streamed to music-starved fans. “Long Lonesome Day,” a Dusters’ staple, finds Book joined by Anders Beck and Jon Stickley, with whom he began playing music 20 years ago. Book’s vocals ring true, and the interplay between the three longtime friends offered listeners a musical respite from a world that had gone topsy turvy. – D.S.

TYLER CHILDERS

“In Your Love”

Tyler Childers has a way of penning love songs that are darned near perfect. On “In Your Love,” Childers sings confidently to his muse, professing that no amount of time or adversity would deter their love. The earnestness in both Childers’ vocals and lyrics highlight the purity of the sentiment behind his songs; unlike so many other country stars, these are words that he has lived. As he showed on early offerings like “Lady May” and “All Your’n,” one cannot deny that Childers feels every single word he is singing here. – D.S

DAVID WILCOX

“Jolt”

On “Jolt," longtime North Carolina songwriter David Wilcox offers a tongue-in-cheek take on our collective early morning habit of reaching into the ether for all the sordid headlines

we can find via social or mainstream media; that the terror, paranoia, propaganda, and horror stories that command our attention are the jolt we need to get moving. His take on being victims of our own digital algorithms and digesting news from our own echo chambers is creepily spot on; with the omnipresent press for news, good or bad, living in a world of perpetual anxiety has become all too real. –

CHARLIE FAYE & THE FANIMALS

“Milo Wears A Tutu”

Whimsical and breezy, “Milo Wears A Tutu” is a feel good doo wop offering from Charlie Faye, long a name known for her vintage Motown sounds. The song title is less than ambiguous; the protagonist, as a young man, blurs gender roles by playing with trucks while also wearing a pink tutu when he wants to dance. If you’ve paid attention to the news, you know that highlighting that type of ambiguity can be dangerous ground. Thankfully, Faye has offered up a tremendous affirmation of gender identity and our collective need to think, and live, outside the box. – D.S

STURGILL SIMPSON

“All the Gold in California”

It’s tough to say how musically active Sturgill Simpson is going to be moving forward, since he’s hinted that he’s possibly done performing under his own name. But in July he surfaced in one of his occasional acting roles on the hilarious HBO show the “Righteous Gemstones,” and his character gets a chance to flex his pipes. In an episode, Simpson delivers a powerful a capella take on this Larry Gatlin & the Gatlin Brothers Band song and fortunately it was released as a single soon after. It’s credited to Brother Marshall and the Choir of Fire, so Simpson is indeed keeping us guessing about his musical future. - J.F

MJ LENDERMAN “Rudolph”

On the heels of 2022’s big buzz record “Boat Songs,” Asheville’s MJ Lenderman keeps the countryleaning indie crunch coming with this standalone single, his first for the record label ANTI-. “Rudolph” blends nostalgic imagery with dark storytelling that recalls the work of Southern gothic songwriters Patterson Hood and T. Hardy Morris, but it’s delivered with clear additional influence from 90s alternative bands like Smashing Pumpkins. – J.F.

66 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS TRAIL MIX FRESH TRACKS
To hear these songs and more, follow the Blue Ridge Outdoors’ Trail Mix playlist on Spotify. ASHEVILLE’S MJ LENDERMAN RELEASED THE NEW SINGLE “RUDOLPH” THIS SUMMER. PHOTO BY CHARLIE BOSS

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YOU’RE GOING TO NEED A BIGGER MAP

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