Blue Ridge Outdoors March 2019

MARCH 2019

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Fly Revolution

7 WA R M WAT E R H OT S P OT S

ALTERNATE A.T.

LO N G - D I S TA N C E T R A I L S WITHOUT THE CROWDS

ALWAYS CHEAT, ALWAYS WIN WILDERNESS SURVIVAL 101

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B AC K TA L K HOW THE A.T. SAVED THE SOUTH—FOR NOW PRESIDENT BLAKE DEMASO b l a ke @ b l u e r i d g e o u t d o o r s . c o m E D I TO R I N C H I E F W I L L H A R L A N will@blueridgeoutdoors.com P U B L I S H E R L E A H W O O DY leah@blueridgeoutdoors.com C R E AT I V E D I R E C TO R L AU R E N W O R T H lauren@blueridgeoutdoors.com A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R K AT I E H A R T W E L L katie@blueridgeoutdoors.com E D I TO R I A L & P R O D U C T I O N S E N I O R E D I TO R J E D D F E R R I S jedd@blueridgeoutdoors.com GRAPHIC DESIGNER AMELIA MCCONNELL amelia@blueridgeoutdoors.com T R AV E L E D I TO R E L L E N K A N Z I N G E R ellen@blueridgeoutdoors.com C O N T R I B U TO R S M A S O N A DA M S G R A H A M AV E R I L L A.K. CLEMMONS DA N I E L D E W I T T KIM DINAN

K A L I PA S Z K I E W I C Z WA L LY S M I T H DAV E S TA L L A R D SARAH VOGEL M I R N A VA L E R I O

C O P Y E D I TO R S JULIA GREEN, ROBERT MCGEE

We should be building a renewable energy infrastructure, not leaky, dangerous, fossil fuel pipelines that lock us into decades of pollution, carbon emissions, drilling, and fracking. —Ken Camuto Often, pipelines can be rerouted to avoid the beautiful mountains we love.

The key, though, is not to block the pipelines entirely, because the energy is going to get where the demand is. If not by pipeline, oil will get there by rail car. Trains are prone to accidents and incredibly more dangerous, and they produce more carbon emissions.

—TomHamiltonPhotography

Our region needs to decide: do we want more boom-and-bust fossil fuels, or is it time for a new approach based on renewables and recreation? I'm tired of big corporations calling the shots. Let's take back our mountains.

—Kelly Drewes

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019

ARE OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS LOSING THEIR CONSERVATION ETHIC? I get on the trail to get away from everything. Leave No Trace is the goal before I leave, and it's a bonus when I have no signal. —David Medford We are increasingly focused on ourselves and our experiences rather than protecting the places we enjoy.

We think they’ll always be there and won’t be messed with. Now we’re starting to see that public lands are vulnerable and need our vigilance and our voices. —Darcy S.

SQUIRREL SPECIES IN NORTH CAROLINA GLOWS PINK I'm glad squirrels are finally accepting gender equality and not forcing them all to be a drab gray.

—Ronnie Wiley

OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS—LOSE THE EG0 I'm puzzled by folks constantly one-upping each other in their outdoor accomplishments. I often wonder where this competitive streak comes from. But then I get back to browsing glossy publications glorifying the runner who did the entire AT barefoot in February in six days, or the kayaker who paddled Niagara Falls upstream.

—Eric Heinzman

TA L K B AC K TO U S H E R E :

MARCH 2019

“Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after.”

– Henry David Thoreau

PHOTO BY WILL OVERMAN

F E AT U R E S 21 KNOW THE SPOT A seasoned fly fisherman reflects on the comfort of home waters.

22 FLY REVOLUTION Anglers are adapting fly techniques to pursue warmwater fish. Nick Carter highlights eight hotspots for warmwater fly fishing.

33 ‘ALWAYS CHEAT, ALWAYS WIN’ Search and Rescue leader Andrew Herrington throws his students into icy creeks and teaches them how to save themselves. Ellen Kanzinger signed up for his weekend survival course.

37 ALTERNATE A.T. Looking for a different kind of thru-hike? Try

one of these eight longdistance trails in Southern Appalachia that offer equally stunning views without the crowds.

42 A PATH FORWARD The success of rails-totrails highlights a shift across the region from industry to recreation.

Here are eight rail-trails in the region connecting communities and revitalizing economies.

47 THE RIVERS WE LOVE Thanks to collaboration from a variety of groups, North Carolina may double the number of eligible Wild and Scenic Rivers this year.

D E PA R T M E N T S 6 FLASHPOINT Climate change is happening here and now, in the mountains we call home.

8 QUICK HITS Favorite outdoor podcasts • Running addict • Study: Southerners love wilderness • First Knight • How to live to 90 • Man donates 1,700 bikes • Build your own boat 32 THE GOODS Champion anglers reveal their favorite fly fishing gear.

50 TRAIL MIX Sonic bloom: 5 acts to catch in the Blue Ridge this spring.

You know why you go to the woods ... to connect with nature and recharge spiritually. You long to hear rushing water and feel the sun on your skin and wind in your hair.

You must satisfy a deep yearning for serenity.

Virginia State Parks ... for when you need to fish.

ON THE COVER Fishing guide Allison Vannoy on the Hiwassee River, Tennessee.

Photo by Andrew Korynlak @akornylak andrewkornylak.com

800-933-PARK (7275) | www.virginiastateparks.gov MARCH 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

5

FLASHPOINT

CLIMATE CHANGE

PRESENT TENSE LET’S STOP TALKING ABOUT CLIMATE CHANGE IN THE FUTURE TENSE. CLIMATE CHANGE IS HAPPENING HERE AND NOW, RIGHT IN OUR BLUE RIDGE BACKYARD.

BY MASON ADAMS

THE FLOODS CAUGHT EVERYONE BY SURPRISE,

including me.

I left Blacksburg early after my wife called to warn about rising waters.

The river hadn’t flooded onto the road yet, but it was getting close. A passing driver flashed his lights—never a good sign. As I topped the next hill, I saw a small river running across the road.

When people think about the effects of climate change, they often envision melting icebergs or rising sea levels along the coast line. I live in the mountains, where we’re not downstream from anyone. And yet Hurricane Michael flooded dozens of roads in Floyd County, destroyed driveways, carved up dirt roads and brought transportation to a dead halt.

Scientists tell us that extreme weather events like this will only become more common as the climate continues to change. Climate change is no longer a future consideration.

It’s happening now, and its effects are being felt everywhere.

Massive storms and flooding are creating refugee crises that directly affect international geopolitics. Military officials have identified climate change as a threat to national security, not just from the direct impacts of weather but also from the chaos and political instability it creates.

Hurricanes are striking the South in greater numbers and intensity.

Algal blooms created a toxic “red tide” that plagued Florida through the fall. Virginia’s Tangier Island, which gave the world soft shell crab, is disappearing beneath the rising Chesapeake Bay. Floyd County, where I live, was a destination for the back-to-the-land movement of the ’60s and ’70s. People moved there to seek personal freedom and lay the groundwork for the alternative culture for which Floyd is known today. Some deliberately moved to Floyd—and to other communities in the Blue Ridge and Appalachia—to 6

retreat from an expected environmental and societal collapse.

But there is no escape—not from climate change nor from the geopolitical chaos that it brings. Its effects can be seen throughout the region—flooding in the mountains, hurricane damage and red algal tides on the coast, and wildfire everywhere.

“You can’t get away, and yet you can’t solve it by yourself either,” said Jennifer Marlon, a research scientist at the Yale School of Forestry and Environmental Studies whose work includes studying climate change.

“We’re seeing more flooding. We’re seeing more intense precipitation.

When we do get rainfall, we’re getting more of it and in a shorter time period.

But that’s really only happening in eastern U.S. and the Midwest and the north. The opposite is happening in Texas and the Southwest; it’s becoming hotter and drier there.”

As global temperatures have warmed and Earth’s polar regions have become warmer, the changing temperature gradient between the poles and equator have affected the jet stream, which has resulted in more erratic weather around the world.

The Fourth National Climate Assessment, a report compiled from 13 federal agencies and released earlier this year, said that the South and the Midwest are the regions likely to suffer the largest losses from climate change, which threatens both urban and rural areas.

In addition to more extreme weather events, the South has become increasingly urbanized. Cities create a heat island effect, which compounds the effects of warming temperatures and more frequent heat waves.

Auto- and industrial-generated air pollution combines with high humidity and temperatures to create major air quality problems.

And communities at the urbanwildland interface also are at risk from wildfires, which have become more severe as a result of drought and decades of fire suppression. Add in the growing number of high-density residential structures, and we can expect more events like the 2016 Great Smoky Mountains wildfires, which killed 14 people, injured 134, destroyed more than 2,000 buildings in Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, and burned more than 16,000 acres.

Construction of interstate gas pipelines along steep mountain slopes

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019

PHOTO BY MASON ADAMS

has resulted in widespread erosion and runoff during heavy rainstorms.

Rural communities also face steep challenges from climate change, especially in the agricultural and forest products industries. Those economic blows could compound the demographic and poverty challenges that already plague much of the rural South.

And while we already see the growing effects of climate change happening now, the Fourth National Climate Assessment reports that it’s only going to get worse: “While some climate change impacts, such as sea level rise and extreme downpours, are being acutely felt now, others, like increasing exposure to dangerously high temperatures—often accompanied by high humidity—and new local diseases, are expected to become more significant in the coming decades.”

As weather grows more chaotic, elected officials are slowly coming around. Republicans representing southern states see the effects on their constituents, and Democrats are increasingly elevating climate change as a priority.

Freshman U.S. Rep. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez of New York and progressive Democrats are rallying for the Green New Deal, a policy package that aims to shift all electricity generation to renewable sources,

provide job training, and support those transitioning from coal and other fossil fuels. The idea already has proven popular enough to spawn a state-level spinoff in Virginia.

The costs of wind and solar projects have dramatically fallen in recent years and are economically competitive with fossil fuels. When building new facilities, large tech companies like Amazon and Google are requiring that most or all of their electricity come from renewable sources. These developments in the private sector are making it possible for some progressive state governments to pursue a larger shift to clean energy.

All of this is reason for hope, but it’s still just a small step toward the global action that’s needed. Marlon said that we can take individual action, too: by shifting our eating habits, more closely considering what we’re buying, engaging with community and elected leaders on the issue.

In the days just before the winter solstice, western Virginia again saw heavy rain, compounded by a footand-a-half of melting snow. The event was not nearly as chaotic as Hurricane Michael, but roads again flooded in places I’d seen closed a couple of months before. This is going to be a regular thing, I reckon.

I’d call it the new normal, but there’s no normal anymore.

4TH ANNUAL SOUTH RIVER FLY FISHING EXPO

APRIL 27-28, 2019

CONSTITUTION PARK | DOWNTOWN WAYNESBORO, VA Fly Fishing, Fly Casting, And Fly Tying Presentation By Regional And Nationally Known Fly Fishing Professionals | Habitat And Conservation Presentations | Free Beginner Fly Casting Introductory Lessons Numerous Fly Fishing Gear Raffle Packages | Regional Fly Fishing Retailers, Fly Fishing Guides, And Fly Fishing Destinations/Lodges | Fly Fishing For Trophy Brown And Rainbow Trout On The South River Catch and Release Area | Local Craft Brews on Tap and Local Food Trucks | Much More!

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QUICK HITS

OUTDOOR NEWS

BY JEDD FERRIS + KIM DINAN

1,700 Number of bikes donated to disadvantaged kids by the late Avrum Morrow, who passed away in January at the age of 93. The Montreal-based Morrow had been anonymously gifting the bikes via the Sun Youth Organization for more than three decades. For his 60th birthday, Morrow, who became known as “Bike Man” until his identity was revealed after his death, decided he wanted to celebrate by helping others, so he started a program with help from the non-profit that annually sought applications for 100 kids in need of bikes. The program ran for 34 years, during which Morrow, who made his money in manufacturing, spent an estimated $600,000 on the two-wheeled gifts. In 2015 he (without revealing his identity) explained his motivation to the Montreal Gazette: “I remembered that when I was a kid, I couldn’t get a bicycle because my parents didn’t have the means. But I kept begging them, and they finally gave in and bought me a red Raleigh bicycle. I loved that bike so much that I cleaned the spokes with a toothpick.”

RETIRED COLONEL HIKES A.T. FOR FELLOW SOLDIERS Colonel Don Fallin of Cullen, Ala., served as a helicopter pilot in the army for 34 years. After retiring, he hiked the entire 2,190-mile trail, using his adventure to raise money for fellow members of the military. With a Twitter bump from actor Gary Sinise, he raised over $17,600 for the Johnny Mac Soldiers Fund.

HERE’S HOW MUCH EXERCISE YOU NEED TO MAKE IT TO AGE 90 A new study in the Journal of Epidemiology & Community Health found that men who completed 90 minutes of physical activity a day were 39 percent more likely to reach 90 than their peers who exercised for less than 30 minutes per day. Each additional 30 minutes of exercise was associated with a 5 percent increase in turning 90.

Women who exercised 30 to 60 minutes each day improved their chances of reaching 90 by 21 percent. Moving more than 60 minutes each day did not have a significant impact on longevity in women. In the U.S., the average life expectancy in men is 76 and 81 in women.

THREE-YEAR-OLD MISSING IN NC FOREST SAID A BEAR KEPT HIM SAFE Casey Hathaway, a North Carolina three-year-old who went missing from his grandmother’s yard, has been found alive after spending two nights in the forest in freezing temperatures. The wind and rain became so bad while Casey was missing that authorities urged volunteers to stay home. But when rescuers, who searched the area with helicopters, drones, K-9 units, and divers, heard a crying kid, they found Casey tangled in thorny bushes, cold and wet but otherwise healthy. The boy told rescuers, and later his family, that a friendly bear kept him safe during his ordeal.

Bear experts say the story is likely imagined. Regardless, the child escaped with a few scratches, asking rescuers for some water and his mother.

He then recuperated in the hospital eating Cheetos and watching his favorite show, Paw Patrol.

RUNNERS COMPLETE 135-MILE ULTRAMARATHON DURING POLAR VORTEX Runners at the Arrowhead 135-mile ultramarathon in International Falls, Minnesota faced temperatures of minus 35 degrees and wind chills as cold as minus 68. Polar vortex weather pounded the 146 racers who toed the line this year in four disciplines: running, cycling, skiing, and kick-sledding. Only 13 runners finished, the last one coming in after nearly 57 hours.

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019

MAN COMPLETES MARATHON CARRYING 30 POUNDS OF GARBAGE ON HIS BACK

KINCORA A.T. HOSTEL WILL REACH THE 25,000-VISITOR MILESTONE NEXT MONTH.

Andrew Otazo completed the Miami Marathon carrying 30 pounds of garbage on his back.

Otazo has been cleaning up parts of a nature preserve near his home in Florida, removing an estimated 6,500 pounds of garbage over the past year. The marathon was part of a fundraiser for Miami Waterkeeper. Otazo raised over $4,600, which will help clean beaches and mangrove forests and aid in advocating for the reduction of single-use plastic items.

A.T. legend Bob Peoples has operated the hostel for 23 years.

He will serve ice cream to the 25,000th hiker.

STUDY SHOWS 11 OF GEORGIA’S 12 COAL-POWERED PLANTS ARE LEAKING CHEMICALS INTO THE GROUNDWATER. Coal ash contains toxins such as arsenic, cadmium, and lead, which are known to cause cancer and heart disease.

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QUICK HITS

K A YA K B U I L D I N G

PHOTO BY PHIL MORGAN

TO BUILD A BOAT NORTH CAROLINA OUTDOOR GUIDE AND CARPENTER INSPIRED BY INUIT CRAFTSMANSHIP

BY PHIL MORGAN

IN 1950, THE CANADIAN GOVERNMENT

forcibly removed thousands of Inuit from their ancestral homeland. From this tragic epoch emerged the tale of one elder who refused to leave.

Hoping to ensure their grandfather’s compliance, relatives confiscated the old man’s tools. Unfazed, he snuck out of the family igloo in a winter storm and defecated into his hands. He shaped his own feces into a knife and hardened it with snow and saliva. He then killed a dog and fashioned a sled out its ribcage. He harnessed the dead canine’s companions to the makeshift sled and stole away into the night.

The ingenuity of the Inuit has captured adventurous imaginations for centuries. From survival tales, to cold-weather gear, to rolling a kayak, northland indigenous culture has left an indelible mark on outdoor recreation—and especially on Brevard, North Carolina boat builder Chad Quinn.

Quinn, an impassioned flatwater paddler, had invested thousands of dollars in kayaks and carbon paddles.

Plying the vast web of lakes in upstate South Carolina, he obsessed over how he could go farther, faster. He 10

was gliding across Clarks Hill Lake one afternoon when a serendipitous meeting with an old man wielding a strange wooden paddle changed everything.

“It seemed like something that shouldn’t work because of its shape,” Quinn remembers of the paddle.

Curious, he gave the slender, wooden implement a try. Light, flexible, and powerful, Quinn was immediately enamored with the paddle, even down to the organic feel of wood and tongue oil on his palms.

“Not only did it work, it was really efficient,” he said.

Quinn convinced the man to build him such a paddle, but he wouldn’t share his shaping techniques, so Quinn launched himself into a life-changing exploration.

“When I realized how amazing the paddle was and how I didn’t want to use my carbon paddle anymore, I had no other choice than dive in with both feet into the kayaks,” Quinn says.

An amateur carpenter, Quinn was captivated by Inuit craftsmanship. He scoured the internet for information, piecing together instructional videos and old literature and attended conventions. Eventually he built a body of knowledge.

“The first one I did in my living room,” says Quinn. “I was building a barn at the time and in the evening I would come inside and work on this side project: building a kayak.”

From the start, Quinn has built the boats with exclusively indigenous techniques. He forgoes power tools in favor of simple hand tools, including

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019

wickedly sharp Japanese hand saws. He even makes cuts without a measuring tape, utilizing the Inuit technique of going off hand and arm lengths. This style of building gave Quinn’s journey deeper meaning.

“I began to feel like I had a responsibility to preserve and share this information.”

As an outdoor guide and kayaking outfitter, Quinn decided to supplement his business with his newfound boat building skills and began offering classes in which his clients built paddles and kayaks. He named his new company Bear Traditional Kayaks, which recognizes both the simplicity of the kayak and the significance of the bear in Inuit culture.

"It’s a fitting description of the kayak as something bold and strong,” Quinn says.

Craftsman Jim Furnace discovered Quinn’s Bear Kayak workshop in the back of Next Venture Sports in Brevard, North Carolina and was immediately drawn to Quinn’s use of hand tools.

“I was always in and out of the shop, and we struck up a conversation,” Furnace explains. "Chad worked me through it step by step. I enjoyed the lashing part; it’s built with the old fashion lashings and pegs, no hardware.”

Upon finishing, Furnace quickly began planning his next boat, a phenomenon Quinn says he sees often.

“It’s fun using old-time hand tools,” says Furnace. “You build the boat out of cedar and bamboo. Steaming and

bending wood, I really enjoyed that. I almost didn’t want to skin the boat. I just wanted to look at it. It’s like a piece of art.”

Paddling one of Quinn’s kayaks is an equally memorable experience.

When Michael Ferraro, a professional whitewater paddler who took sixth this year at the Green Race, sessioned one of Quinn’s boats, he was immediately impressed.

“Compared to what I’m used to in a whitewater kayak, the Greenland boats are much longer and narrower, making them glide through the water much faster. It was a unique experience.”

The thin yet durable exterior fosters intimacy with the natural elements.

Paddlers tune into the temperature and currents easily, anticipate their maneuvers quickly, and fall into a deep rhythm when gliding across the water.

Moreover, the boats are stealthy.

Quinn says he sees exponentially more wildlife in Greenland boats.

While his kayaks are both a work of art and a high-performance, expedition-ready watercraft, Quinn sees something even deeper in them: family. He often finds his boats become precious family heirlooms, which is fitting as these kayaks were a vital part of every Inuit family. The boat’s ability on the water owes itself to this enormous responsibility of providing one's family with meat.

These people had to hunt in dangerous waters in order to secure sustenance, Quinn says.

“What drove people to get into these boats was survival, proven success, and love.”

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QUICK HITS

WILDERNESS STUDY

SOUTHERNERS LOVE WILDERNESS

STUDY HIGHLIGHTS 89% of participants support the preservation of wilderness areas so they will always exist in their natural condition.

UGA STUDY REVEALS THAT 89 PERCENT OF VISITORS TO PUBLIC LANDS SUPPORT WILDERNESS

61% of participants even said they’d write a letter to their local member of Congress to support the protection of wilderness.

BY JEDD FERRIS

Nearly 90% of participants said it was important just knowing that wilderness and primitive areas exist and “that future generations will have wilderness areas.”

WILDERNESS DESIGNATION IS A TOOL FOR

permanent protection of the South's wildest places, but how do Southerners feel about wilderness areas? With population swelling in the South, should wilderness areas be opened to resource extraction, or are wilderness areas more vital than ever?

A new study from the University of Georgia aimed to answer these questions. Southern Appalachia is home to nearly 50 wilderness areas— all within a few hours of many major cities. The University of Georgia study analyzed responses from 1,250 residents across the region who have visited public lands in the past five years. Over half of survey participants (52%) considered themselves conservative; 28 percent described themselves as liberal, and 21 percent were neither. Over one-third of participants were non-white.

The biggest motivator for visiting wilderness was to experience nature (92.8%).

Of the participants who had actually visited wilderness areas, an overwhelming majority wanted more areas to be protected (88.4%) and wanted areas that were closer to them (83.4%).

The findings were surprisingly clear: 89 percent supported the preservation of wilderness areas in their natural condition.

The study also found that, among those who had visited wilderness, 88 percent supported more wilderness areas; and 81 percent supported protected areas where natural systems can function unimpaired.

In addition, the study asked Southerners why they valued wilderness areas. Protecting water and air quality, safeguarding wildlife and rare species habitat, providing scenic beauty, and preserving areas for future generations were the most important benefits of wilderness. Hiking was the most common use of wilderness areas (84%), followed by photography, swimming, and camping.

The most constraining barriers to wilderness were “not enough time” and

THE TOP-TEN MOST VISITED WILDERNESS AREAS IN THE SOUTHERN APPALACHIANS WERE:

“outdoor pests such as mosquitoes, chiggers, and ticks.” Motorized traffic and mechanical timber operations were cited as the least compatible activities with the wilderness experience they were seeking.

Support for wilderness was just about equal across the political spectrum. Conservatives supported the preservation of wilderness about as strongly as liberals and independents, which “demonstrates bipartisan support for the future of wilderness,” the study’s authors concluded. “Across racial groups, political persuasion, and state of residence, it was apparent that individuals were supportive of

wilderness and…the need for expansion and creation of new wildernesses.

These findings are a reminder of the high value that visitors to the Southern Appalachian mountains place on wilderness, especially when land managers are consdering whether to recommend permanent protection of deserving areas."

In 2019, the Forest Service will decide how much new wilderness to recommend in the 1.1-million acre Pisgah-Nantahala National Forest.

The UGA study demonstrates strong public support across party lines and backgrounds for more wilderness in the Pisgah-Nantahala and other national forests in our region.

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019 | RICHMOND EDITION

QUICK HITS

WHAT TO LISTEN TO

OUTDOOR PODCASTS

raw, real and hilarious.”

James has even begun exploring the production side of podcasting.

“I'm developing a podcast that will cover outdoor recreation, music, and environmental issues.”

ATHLETES AND EXPERTS REVEAL THEIR FAVORITES

ZACH DAVIS

BY HART FOWLER

A.T. THRU-HIKER

Zach Davis became an avid podcast listener after stumbling upon the Joe Rogan Experience while thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail in 2011. "Boredom on trail is very real, and podcasts are my ideal solution," said Davis, founder and editor-in-chief of The Trek, a platform for long distance backpacking enthusiasts. But he also adds, “There's immense value in practicing mindfulness, for which extended periods in nature without distraction is the perfect scenario for this pursuit.”

Along with Juliana Chauncey, he co-hosts Backpacker Radio, a biweekly show featuring interviews with prominent long distance backpackers and adventurers, one of three active podcasts on The Trek.

IN 1851, HENRY DAVID THOREAU WROTE

in his journal about the sounds of the telegraph that had just come to his home of Concord: "We are in great haste to construct a magnetic telegraph from Maine to Texas; but Maine and Texas, it may be, have nothing important to communicate."

Thoreau would have never fathomed how the dots and dashes of the telegraph he disliked have evolved into our ability today to bring the music and stories of the world directly to our ears wherever we may be.

Over 48 million Americans listen to podcasts on a weekly basis, up 6 million from 2017. One third of Americans age 25-54 listen to podcasts at least once a month.

Here is a short list of favorite podcasts selected by outdoor-minded adventurers in the Blue Ridge:

DAN MANTENA

CHARLOTTE RUNNING CLUB / BLUE RIDGE RELAY 2018 TEAM CHAMPION

Dan Mantena and his Charlotte Running Club team outran 200 teams to win the 208-mile Blue Ridge Relay last year. Mantena prefers the mountain ascents, where “climbing builds toughness, teaches you how to suffer and to embrace the grind.”

He doesn’t listen to podcasts or music when training.

“There is a lot of noise in the world, so I prefer to either be with my own thoughts or talk to others if running in a pack. Quietness also helps build mental toughness and train the inner voice.”

However, the Australian-born Mantena travels a lot for work, which led him to becoming an avid podcastlistener. His favorite, the weekly The Physical Performance Show by Australian physiotherapist Brad Beer.

“Beer interviews some of the top athletes, coaches, and experts in the endurance world. His podcast aims to inspire the pursuit of your physical best performance, how the world's top physical performers achieve their success as well as the highs, the lows,

ELLEN KANZINGER HIKER and the journey of getting there.”

KAYLA CARTER A.T. THRU-HIKER

29-year-old Kayla Carter doesn’t listen to podcasts outdoors for the most part, where she would rather be making connections to the natural environment and also building relationships with the people she’s with.

However, she did listen to a few podcast episodes while on her A.T. thru hike in 2014.

“But, that’s understandable when you’re on a six month journey to hike 2,000+ miles, right?” she said.

“I’ve recently taken up running as a hobby and workout routine, so I’ll listen to them when I have an easy goal set for the day or on a walk by myself."

Specifically, she listens to The Outdoor Biz Podcast because “it inspires my work in outdoor development with our regional economic development organization,” and Outdoor Industry Association's Audio Outdoorist, which is an organization “committed to the outdoor industry and tracking its contributions to our nation’s economic viability, with the podcast focusing on politics surrounding the outdoor industry.”

Carter was instrumental in creating her own podcast, too: the Appalachian Trail Tennessee Network Podcast launched last spring and recorded 21 episodes in an effort to “document the trail’s positive impact on our economy while also highlighting the natural beauty here in Northeast Tennessee.”

GERRY JAMES PADDLER

Music has become a fundamental part of experiencing the outdoors for many, including paddler Gerry James.

“I curate playlists to drive me as I glide through the water,” he says.

“When you're out there on the water for three-plus hours marathon-paddling alone, it's nice to have a companion,” said James, the American Canoe Association Volunteer of the Year in 2017 and one of BRO's 30 under 30 last year for his work founding the Explore Kentucky Initiative and Kentucky Waterman Series.

His favorite is Joe Budden, whom he described as “more conversational than most podcasts… with three friends musing about navigating through life, critical reviews of the latest releases, hip-hop culture, and news in an unfiltered and deadpan format that is

Blue Ridge Outdoors Travel Editor Ellen Kanzinger listens to podcasts on her 30-minute walk to work every day, She also listens when driving to outdoor destinations around the region while on assignment for BRO. Reveal from the Center for Investigative Reporting is one of her favorites. It covers a wide range of topics including environmental issues like deadly wildfires, shark fishing, and lead in water sources.”

She also likstens to She Explores and The Joy Trip Project. Both podcasts cover a wide range of outdoor activities and tell the stories of some seriously inspiring people getting outside.”

OTHER STAFF FAVORITES: Walking the Floor, Cocaine & Rhinestones, WTF with Marc Maron —Jedd Ferris, senior editor Dispatch Radio, Enormocast, The Sharp End —Doug Schnitzspahn, editor in chief of Elevation Outdoors Magazine Terrible, Thanks for Asking, On Being, Strangers —Kim Dinan, digital daily news editor

MARCH 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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QUICK HITS

HEALING A BROKEN SPIRIT

THE RUNNING ADDICT

HOW KRISTOPHER CARGILE TURNED HIS LIFE AROUND, ONE STEP AT A TIME B Y M I R N A VA L E R I O

WE MET ON A COLD, RAINY DAY IN A BUSTLING,

upbeat coffeehouse. Amid the hectic clanging, pain darkened his face. It was a stark change from the bubbly, funny, seemingly carefree trail runner who had been one of my constant companions at a six-day stage race.

Perhaps he regretted agreeing to tell his story again, this time without the buffer of adventure. But eventually, the words come out, halting at first, but then suddenly in a rush. This time, he left out no detail, and told the story of a man whose trail running adventures were punctuated by spectacularly heavy drug use, broken relationships, and dissatisfaction with his chosen careers as a day trader and programmer.

Is it worth a person’s livelihood, their sanity, their fragile relationships with loved ones—to recount the intimate details of such a fractured life?

Kris Cargile thinks so. Every opportunity he gets to tell his story, he continues to experience cathartic moments of clarity, of vision, of selflove, respect. And momentum.

I first met Cargile while running the TransRockies Six Day Stage Race.

We started talking, as you do during sustained periods on trails in the backcountry. I told him my story, and while stampeding down steep, dusty trails in the Colorado Rockies, it was his turn to share what compelled him to be out on the trails that day. He told it. Casually. Flat. Even.

The magic of running or hiking through nature is that that any story you tell is told with the reassurance and comfort the trail gives you. The swooshing sounds of wind in the trees create a sonic reassurance that you are alive, that life continues its inevitable cycle of birth, rebirth, and death.

That’s exactly where Cargile found himself a few years ago, as he sat in a barber’s chair in Atlanta. That morning he had consumed a beer and a fairly large amount of cocaine, and minutes before he sat down for his haircut, he had run into the bathroom to do one 16

PHOTO COURTESY KRIS CARGILE

final line of blow.

That’s all he remembers from the barber shop. There were moments where he had awoken briefly in the back of an ambulance, facing the EMTs that had jumped his heart back to life, but that is all.

The next time he was fully awake and conscious, he found himself in the ICU at Northside Hospital in Atlanta, his father hovering over his bed. He was fully intubated and tied to the hospital bed. A nurse came in and asked him if he knew where he was, along with the usual litany of questions one is asked after a cocaine overdose-induced brush with death. He knew exactly where he was, and why.

He learned that he’d had a seizure and had medically died, that his heart had stopped, and that he had gone into renal failure. But by an enormous stroke of luck, two EMTs happened to be on a lunch break nearby, and they saved his life.

Was this the moment of realization?

Would this be the end of numerous ER visits, fights with worried parents and significant others?

Things didn’t change as quickly as

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019

he hoped. Eventually, though, Cargile launched into a frenzy of recovery and sobriety.

A martial arts studio was a short walk from his house. Cargile was intrigued with what he witnessed through windows, so he walked in and joined a class. He noticed that several students were part of an outdoor conditioning class trained on the trails of Sweetwater Creek and Pine Mountain. Cargile fell in love with the trails.

Through trail running, he began to heal his broken spirit. The trails allowed him to reassess and reconfigure his life, loosening the tight hold that his former life had once had on him.

While a few years ago, you may have found Cargile on the street, perhaps buying a vial of crack, right after pulling an all-nighter writing code for a big corporate company, on the verge of divorce from the partner who would encourage and augment his drug use with her own, spiraling into self-destruction, these days he is working on renovating and selling his house in Atlanta.

In April of 2018, Cargile’s

demons came crashing back into him, eventually thrusting him into an intense relapse. He now freely admits that perhaps he should have done some work around his triggers: loss and fragmented relationships. But this reentry was short lived. Twice he ended up in the psychiatric ward, pleading his case, this time in front of a doctor who happened to recognize Cargile from some races he had done.

Surprised to see him, the doctor issued an ultimatum: “Clean up or go to jail.”

The second time around, he acquiesced and checked himself into a rehabilitation facility, among doctors and lawyers working through their own healing. A month later, Cargile walked out, with a sharpened ability to discern which relationships he didn’t have use for and a renewed confidence in rebuilding his life.

Cargile continues to run in the North Georgia Mountains, his base for long trail running, mountain biking, and head-clearing adventures. Trail running has been essential to his journey of recovery. “The trail does something to me,” says Cargile. It offers solace and a sense of home.”

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Come for the fishing, but stay for so much more Come explore Patrick County, Virginia. Picnics at a covered bridge or along the Blue Ridge Parkway, canoe rides, traditional mountain music, artisan studios, local wineries, bed and breakfasts, camping, hiking, mountain biking, and fishing are just a few of the attractions awaiting you. From the rugged outdoors to 5-star luxury, there is so much to discover in Patrick County. www.visitpatrickcounty.org

MARCH 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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QUICK HITS

DIRECTOR OF OUTDOOR RECREATION

FIRST KNIGHT NORTH CAROLINA BECOMES THE FIRST STATE IN THE EAST TO CREATE AN OFFICE OF OUTDOOR RECREATION.

BY FREDERICK REIMERS

ON HIS FIRST DAY AS THE DIRECTOR OF NORTH

Carolina’s newly created Office of Outdoor Recreation Industry, David Knight got on a plane and flew to Denver. On his second day at the Outdoor Retailer winter trade show, he got a dramatic illustration of just what a big deal his new job was.

Bustling with the logo-rich booths of some 1,000 outdoor companies, the show can be as overwhelming as a Las Vegas casino, and Knight pinballed down the halls with 29,000 others between Everest parkas from the North Face to dogs sashaying in Ruffwear, to free grilled cheeses frying at stovemaker Jetboil.

“It just kept going,” laughs Knight, who admitted to getting lost a few times at Outdoor Retailer. Even more impressive than the scale he says, “was the obvious passion on display at every one of these companies—for their products, and for being outside.”

Harness all that passion, says Knight, and the outdoor industry can have an outsized political influence—precisely the job Knight was hired to perform.

In January 2018, North Carolina governor Roy Cooper appointed Knight as the first state-level director of outdoor recreation east of the Rockies, joining eleven other states like Colorado, Utah, and Washington with similar outdoor czar positions. The posts all seek to prioritize activities like skiing, cycling, hunting, and the jobs that attend them, within their states.

They are also an acknowledgment of the growing heft of outdoor recreation. According to a 2017 Outdoor Industry Association report, the outdoor industry contributes $887 billion to the economy, and supports 7.6 million jobs, larger than the auto manufacturing industry or pharmaceuticals. The same report pegs North Carolina’s outdoor industry at $28 billion in annual consumer spending, and 260,000 jobs. The big question is, now that the outdoor industry has a rightful seat 18

"DAVID KNOWS GOVERNMENT REALLY WELL, AND THAT’S THE SORT OF CHAMPION WE NEED."

at the government table alongside industries like mining or agriculture, can it go toe to toe with them to protect its playgrounds?

In North Carolina, if anyone can make that happen, it is David Knight.

The lifelong Tar Heel has made a career in protecting clean water, air, and open space at both the Nature Conservancy, where he was director of government relations for North Carolina, and in state government, where he was the assistant secretary for Natural Resources at the North Carolina Division of Environmental

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019

Quality from 2009-13.

“David knows government really well, and that’s the sort of champion we need,” says Noah Wilson, program director of the Outdoor Gear Builders of Western North Carolina. “To help us grow our influence we need someone who can connect the outdoor industry to funding, as well as to power.”

That intersectional capability can help improve recreation in the state when it comes to sprawling complex projects like getting rightof-way and funding for bike paths, or water trails. Or to help promote

recreation in places that aren’t as well known as say, Asheville, or the Outer Banks. Just knowing who to talk to in government can save a lot of time and effort. Knight’s office is in the same division, for example, as the state’s tourism office. One unexpected intersection, says Wilson, is enlisting the state’s transportation department to leave old landings in place when bridges are rebuilt as access points for boaters. “Instead of demolishing them, they just leave them,” says Wilson. “That’s an easy, no-cost win for recreation, but only if you have someone who can easily make those connections.”

Knight has spent his first year figuring out such opportunities, starting with a state-wide listening tour. In 13 separate meetings, he met with 40 to 50 local leaders, asking them what his office can do to help foster the economic opportunities of outdoor recreation in their towns and counties. ‘That’s 500 people who are now starting to recognize the value of outdoor recreation in their communities,” says Knight. That value can be from tourism, or to help attract affluent professionals who want to live in North Carolina for its outdoorsy way of life. Vermont, he notes, just offered $10,000 in cash to any freelancer who moved to Vermont, counting on their increased spending and taxes as an economic driver.

Demonstrating the economic value of outdoor recreation is precisely the way that the industry can start to influence public policy that protects the quality of wildlands, says Tom Dempsey, CEO of trailer manufacturer Sylvan Sport, based in Brevard, and the chair of Knight’s 30-person advisory council. People protect what they love; governments protect what makes money. “If we demonstrate that conserving open space is vital for the economy, then it will be done,” says Dempsey.

Such an approach has benefits beyond just a healthier ecosystem and a happier, more physically active society, however, says Wilson. It helps heal our democracy. “To say we are in a politically divided time is an understatement, but I’ve found the one thing that everyone can agree on is that commerce is good. If the business of outdoor recreation is the one place that everyone across the spectrum can get behind, then let’s start there.”

RosĂŠ

any season is

season

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Our Southern Appalachian Wildlands

With more than half the American population living within a day’s drive, the wildlands of the Southern Appalachian Mountains offer the East’s greatest opportunities for escape, exploration, and adventure. Around half a million acres of these wildlands have been formally designated by Congress as wilderness on national forests within

are the strongest safeguards we have for preserving our last wild places for future generations, protecting wildlife and rare species habitat, water quality, and providing economic benefits to rural communities. These unique public lands allow us to experience and create memories in some of the country’s wildest places.

the states of Alabama, Georgia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, and Virginia. Unlike most federally managed forests, which allow for extractive uses like timber production or built facilities for human comfort and convenience, wilderness areas have only a single guiding purpose—to remain wild. Wilderness protections

Southern Appalachian national forest Wilderness By the Numbers

50 Wilderness 441,965 total Areas acres What is Wilderness?

Under the Wilderness Act of 1964, areas that receive wilderness designation by Congress are forever protected as wild places, free from logging, road construction, and motorized or mechanized activities. National forest wilderness areas are open to all of us for hiking, camping, picnicking, fishing, hunting, swimming, backpacking, rock climbing, kayaking, horseback riding, skiing, photography, and wildlife watching.

847 Miles of trails Visitors 600,000 Average per Year

& Threatened 100+ Endangered Species Protected

Motivation for Visiting Wilderness

Acres of Public Lands with Wilderness Protections National

110,025,309

Southern Appalachians

441,965

1. Enjoying Nature 2. creating memories 3. escaping the grind

public land visitors in our region want more of a good thing

Most Popular Wilderness Activities in the South

Support the PRESERVATION of Wilderness Areas Support MORE Wilderness Area Designations

Wilderness areas in the Southern region have the highest economic value per visitor per trip

$86

hiking

photography

southerners’ favorite wilderness areas

SOUTHERN NANTAHALA

WILDERNESS NANTAHALA National Forest 23,675 acres

Shining Rock WILDERNESS pisgah

National Forest 18,479 acres

LINVILLE GORGE

WILDERNESS pisgah

National Forest

BIG LAUREL BRANCH WILDERNESS

bald river GORGE

WILDERNESS

10,811 acres

National Forest

11,651 acres

cherokee 3,791 acres

per person per day in consumer surplus spending in 2015 Data Provided by:

Wilderness Perception Data Collected by the University of Georgia’s Warnell School of Forestry and Natural Resources in 2018

camping

Why Southerners Value Wilderness 1. Safeguarding Wildlife & Rare Species Habitat

CHEROKEE

National Forest

Swimming

The Newest addition– Tennessee Wilderness Act In December 2018, Congress designated 20,000 acres of the Cherokee National Forest in Tennessee as protected wilderness.

The latest designation expands the existing Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock, Big Frog, Little Frog Mountain, Big Laurel Branch, and Sampson Mountain wilderness areas and creates the Upper Bald River Wilderness Area, a new 9,000-acre addition.

2. Protecting Water & Air Quality 3. Preserving Areas for Future Generations 4. Providing Scenic Beauty

Southern Appalachian wild areas are among the top 10% of most valuable, intact lands needing protection in the continental United States.

Fly Fishing’s Warmwater Revolution SEVEN DESTINATIONS TO GET IN ON THE ACTION

BY NICK CARTER

T

here’s a brutish undercurrent gaining momentum in fly fishing. Across the Southeast and Mid-Atlantic, anglers are taking the delicate tools and techniques traditionally associated with surface-sipping trout, and they’re adapting them to pursue warmwater fish.

While fly fishing for bass and bream is not new, this evolution toward larger, more powerful species has accelerated over the last decade. It is driven by anglers seeking a thrill more visceral than pretty little rainbows on mountain streams.

From river-run striped bass to muskie, black bass and carp, fly-rodders are developing new ways to catch freshwater’s most powerful fish. Here are seven destinations to do battle with fish that break hearts and fishing rods.

JAMES RIVER MUSKIE, VIRGINIA

The James River is one of the few rivers in the east that supports a fishable wild muskie population.

Virginia tapered off stockings about a decade ago, and the river’s muskellunge are thriving.

Guide Matt Miles eagerly pointed out that most of the fish they catch, the 35- to 42-inchers, were spawned in the upper James. He said the monster 50-inchers might have originally come from the hatchery, but they still prowl the river, ready to give anglers the adrenaline rush of a lifetime.

Between Iron Gate and Lynchburg, Va., more than 80 miles of the James are considered muskie water. The relatively shallow pool and riffle habitat is uniquely suited to hunting freshwater’s biggest, toothiest fish with a fly rod.

But muskie fishing isn’t for everyone. Casting waterlogged, 8- to 14-inch-long streamers on sinking 22

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019

lines with 10- and 11-weight rods is a workout. Doing it all day in hope of a single take requires mental fortitude.

“Muskie fishing is about being in the right place at the right time,” Miles said. “I can put you in the right place and teach you the right way to do it. I can’t make it the right time. So much depends on the conditions and the way the fish are acting.”

Peak muskie season is October through midMarch, and if the 50/50 odds of drawing a strike seem a little slim, the James is also an excellent smallmouth river.

Chugging poppers through bank eddies incites violent blow-ups if the fish are looking up. If they’re feeding sub-surface, Greenbrier smallmouths slam crayfish and baitfish patterns.

The Greenbrier also offers incredible access. With numerous put-ins and take-outs for hand-launched boats as well as two concrete boat ramps, biting off a stretch to float is not a problem. For wading anglers, the 77-mile state-owned Greenbrier River Trail between the towns of Cass and Caldwell offers unparalleled access by foot, horse or mountain bike.

GUIDES/INFORMATION: Matt Miles Fly Fishing, (434) 238-

2720, mattmilesflyfishing.com.

Jacob_ott@greenbrier.com; Serenity Now Outfitters, (304) 647-9779, serenitynowoutfitters.com.

GREENBRIER RIVER SMALLMOUTH, WEST VIRGINIA

FRENCH BROAD & HOLSTON RIVER SMALLMOUTH, TENNESSEE

Fed by trout streams of the 900,000-acre Monongahela National Forest and flowing unchecked for 173 miles through the gorgeous Alleghenies of eastern West Virginia, the Greenbrier River quietly dishes out some of the best smallmouth bass fishing in the region.

Jacob Ott, director of outdoor pursuits at the venerable Greenbrier Resort in White Sulphur Springs, W.V., singled out the Greenbrier as his top choice for smallies on the fly. He said competent anglers catch 15 to 25 bass on a half-day float trip, and trophy fish longer than 20 inches are a definite possibility. The largest fly-caught bronzeback he’s ever guided a client to—a massive 26-incher—was caught on the lower end of the Greenbrier.

Fishing is best May through October, when an outstanding topwater bite can arise at any time.

GUIDES/INFORMATION: Jacob Ott, (304) 667-8337,

East of Knoxville, Tenn., the French Broad and Holston rivers make a final run to their confluence and the formation of the mighty Tennessee River.

Fly fishers might be familiar with these two rivers for the trout they offer farther upstream. This low in the system, they are smallmouth bass factories.

Bill Stranahan, with Southeastern Anglers Guide Service, treats the French Broad and Holston as a single destination. Low or falling flows are preferable for fishing these dam-driven tailwaters, and one or the other typically offers optimal conditions on a given day. Their proximity allows for a gametime decision from more than 60 miles of prime smallmouth water.

The habitats are similar, with a good variety of shoals, cobblestone shallows and gravel bars to fish.

This structure is interspersed between long stretches

of flat water with deep holes and bank timber.

Popping bugs off the banks or dredging the depths with crayfish or baitfish patterns yields good numbers of smallies in all age classes, said Stranahan.

“You’ll catch a lot of 12- to 14-inch fish,” he said, “and you’ll also hit fish up to 3 or 5 pounds. We get those 20- and 22-inchers from time to time.”

April into October is prime time for the smallmouth bite. The topwater action is best later in the season. A drift boat or canoe is necessary to fish either river effectively, and there are adequate access points to arrange a float. Bring 6- to 8-weight rods, with floating lines for fishing the surface and sinking lines for streamers.

of Cumberland Lake.

Troy Humphrey, aka Streamer Troy, said there’s no better adventure than floating, fishing and camping along this remote stretch of river. Humphrey guides for trout on the Cumberland tailwater below the lake and relishes the rare opportunity to fish for smallies on the upper river.

Sometimes called the North Fork of the Cumberland, the river changes character in its run through the national forest. From the Redbird Boat Ramp outside the small town of Williamsburg, Ky., it runs flat and riffled before dropping into a sandstone gorge to emerge wide and shoal-broken upstream of the last take-out above the falls. There is some mild whitewater and plenty of holding water for smallmouths up to 20 inches as well as spotted bass.

The fishing calls for standard river bass tactics with 6-weight rods, popping bugs and streamers, said Humphrey. What’s unique is the ability to canoe, raft or kayak through pristine wilderness and make riverside camp for an overnighter. The river fishes best from late spring into fall.

GUIDES/INFORMATION: Southeastern Anglers,

southeasternanglers.com, (866) 558-7688, danelaw@ southeasternanglers.com.

ETOWAH RIVER STRIPER, GEORGIA

Beginning in late spring, striped bass from Alabama’s Lake Weiss begin an annual spawning migration.

They run upstream some 75 miles to a lowhead dam across the Etowah River near Cartersville, Ga. Initiated by the urge to spawn, the exodus becomes a summer vacation. Stripers spread out across 45 miles of the Etowah, prowling and feeding comfortably in the cool-water refuge of the tailwater below Lake Allatoona.

The boys at Cohutta Fishing Company in Cartersville have this fishery dialed in. Head guide Garner Reid spends May into September rowing drift boats through shoals and rock gardens in search of one of the biggest thrills in fly fishing. River-run stripers are strong and violent. Even the normal 4- to 10-pound fish will pull a bend into a 9- or 10-weight fly rod. When a 15- or 20-plus-pounder eats, landing it requires skill as well as a little luck.

Reid said he hits the river loaded for bear because it’s tough to tell what conditions will bring. He keeps 7- to 10-weight rods rigged and ready with everything from floating lines to 300 grain sinking lines. Clients throw 2- and 3-inch long baitfish patterns to match the shad that are the predominant forage. But sometimes a big 5- or 6-inch streamer is what it takes to tempt the larger fish.

It’s possible to encounter stripers year-round, but most years they are thick in the river during July and August. When the striped bass aren’t cooperating, sizing down and throwing popping bugs for big spotted bass is a ton of fun. Spotted bass will readily eat a fly from April through October.

GUIDES/INFORMATION: Cohutta Fishing Company,

cohuttafishingco.com, (770) 606-1100, store@ cohuttafishingco.com.

SALUDA & CONGAREE RIVER STRIPER, SOUTH CAROLINA

The fly fishing world is abuzz about wild rainbow trout in the lower Saluda River at Columbia, S.C. It’s a wonder those trout survive a massive invasion of trout-eating stripers each spring and summer.

Most of these fish travel some 60 miles up the Congaree River from the Santee-Cooper Lakes between Columbia and Charleston. They show up around Columbia to spawn in April. By early May they

GUIDES/INFORMATION: Cumberland Trout Guide,

cumberlandtroutguide.com, (859) 494-4489.

C A T A W B A C H A I N C A R P, N O R T H CAROLINA

PHOTO BY SCOTT MARTIN

push into the lower Saluda, which is the cold tailwater below Lake Murray dam. They spend the summer in the cold-water refuge of a 10-mile stretch of river.

Jake Howard, of Saluda Valley Guides, said he tapes his thumbs during the June through August heart of the striper season because they become raw and bloody from lipping so many fish. He told of huge numbers of stripers condensed into that short stretch of river and said 60-fish days are possible for anglers good enough to lay out line with a 10-weight rod and 350-grain sinking lines. The standard fish weighs between 4 and 8 pounds, and there are 20-, 30- and even 50-pound stripers caught each season.

GUIDES/INFORMATION: Saluda Valley Guides,

saludavalleyguidesllc.weebly.com, (803) 312-2435, scswampduck@gmail.com.

UPPER CUMBERLAND SMALLMOUTH, KENTUCKY

Daniel Boone National Forest in southeastern Kentucky is more than 700,000 acres of low mountains, steep wooded slopes and sandstone rock formations. The Cumberland River flows west through this rugged landscape for 17 miles before plummeting over massive Cumberland Falls upstream

More than 15 years ago, Capt. Paul Rose left the Texas coast with his flats skiff in tow. He settled in the North Carolina Piedmont, far from the salt marshes and red drum he loves. But he found a new passion in the clear Catawba River lakes between Asheville and Charlotte, N.C. In the shallows, he watched carp tailing and mudding just like redfish.

The fishing style that arose is a lot like sight casting to bonefish. From the platform on his skiff, Rose poles anglers over clear-water flats, searching for pods of carp rooting and feeding. He spots fish from his elevated position and calls instructions to an angler on the casting deck. With a dry fly or a nymph, the cast must be perfect to convince a carp to eat.

Casts from 15 to 60 feet must be accurate, as carp are even more persnickety and skittish than their saltwater counterparts. Rose said many clients hire him to hone skills before a trip to the Bahamas or the Keys. They return because carp are so much fun.

“As soon as you get that hook in him it’s long, powerful, blistering runs—over and over,” Rose said.

“They just don’t tire out.”

Fish from 3 pounds up to 20 pounds call for a 6or 7-weight rod. On a good day, anglers can have up to 30 shots at carp, but hook-ups are fewer.

The peak carp season on Catawba River impoundments like Lake Norman, Lake James and Mountain Island Lake runs from May through September. August and September are the best dry fly months.

GUIDES/INFORMATION: Carolina Bonefishing,

carolinabonefishing.com, (704) 616-6662, captpaulrose@gmail.com.

Nick Carter is the author of “Flyfisher’s Guide to North Carolina & Georgia.” The guide is available on Amazon.com, and autographed copies are available by emailing the author at nsc8957@gmail.com.

MARCH 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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TIGHT LINES Warming temperatures, lengthening dayliGHt, and returning shades of green on the land signal that spring is in the air. check out These 12 leading fishing destinations and outfitters in the blue ridge.

Albemarle Angler, VA For 18 years, the Albemarle Angler has been a staple in the Central Virginia fishing scene, valuing every customer that comes through its doors. They stock the shelves with all the gear and supplies you will need, including Simms®, Fishpond®, Orvis®, and many other tops brands, or help you figure out where to start.

Sign up for a variety of introduction classes on fly fishing and tying to get started on the water. More experienced anglers can still learn something from these experts, including advanced casting techniques, line management, and understanding fish habitat and behavior better.

With almost two decades in business, the guides at Albemarle Angler can show you around Virginia’s diverse fisheries in every season, from the James and Rivanna River to the private waters of Big Bend Farm and Sugar Hollow Farm. Depending on the season, you’ll be able to find trout, muskie, smallmouth bass, and more.

If you’re looking for an adventure beyond Virginia, Albemarle Angler also leads hosted trips around the world, including locations in Alaska, Belize, Mexico, and Cuba to name a few. Join these professionals on one of their hosted trips or let them help you put together the trip you have always dreamed about. albemarleangler.com

Bryson City, NC

PHOTO BY ANDREW KORNYLAK

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

When it comes to fishing, take advantage of all that Bryson City, North Carolina has to offer. From remote mountain streams to rivers right in the downtown, there is never a bad time to visit.

Experience the solitude of the Great Smoky Mountains while you fish Deep Creek, just minutes from town.

Hazel Creek is harder to reach, but the fishing and the scenery is world class. Find a spot to cast your line on the Nantahala River, named a Top 100 Trout River by Trout Unlimited. Fish

for smallmouth bass by boat or wading on the Little Tennessee River.

Experience miles of the Tuckasagee River, including the 2.2 miles that run through town designated as a Delayed Harvest section. Take advantage of the heavily stocked waters and strict catch and release regulations from October through May. Plan a visit for the whole family in October to take part in the annual Smoky Mountains Fly Fishing Festival, including rod demos, casting clinics, and the latest gear.

Afterward, seek out one of a dozen waterfalls easily accessible in the area.

A trip to Bryson City is incomplete without a visit to Fontana Lake. At more than 400 feet deep, it is the fourth deepest man-made lake in the country. This cold-water lake features some of the best walleye, muskie, and smallmouth bass fishing around. Escape from the city and spend your day surrounded by the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and Nantahala National Forest. Hikers can easily access the Appalachian Trail, which crosses Fontana Dam, and explore more of this wilderness area.

Bryson City is also home to the Fly Fishing Museum of the Southern Appalachians. Learn about influential anglers, conservationists, authors, and guides who helped shape the area into a top fishing destination.

Other exhibits detail knot and fly tying, the evolution of fly fishing, and Hall of Fame inductees. By June 2019, the museum will open the Appalachian Rivers Aquarium to house native fish from the region.

At the end of the day, stop by one of several restaurants in town that serve local trout, including Jimmy Mac’s, The Fryemont Inn, The Bistro at the Everett Hotel, and Nantahala Brewing – Brewpub. Or ride and dine on the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad.

Enjoy a meal and drinks while the train takes you on a scenic journey.

This trout town has all that you are looking for, and more. greatsmokiesfishing.com

Calvert County, MD Surrounded by water on three sides, Calvert County, Maryland has more than 140 miles of coast and waterway to fish from.

To the east, navigate the waters of the Chesapeake Bay for rockfish, white perch, Spanish mackerel, and more. Access fishing in the bay from one of several local parks and beaches, including the North Beach Pier, Breezy Point Beach, and Flag Ponds Nature Park. Hire one of several fishing charters in the area for the best experience on the Chesapeake. These boat captains know the best spots, techniques, and bait around.

You will find spot, croaker, and blue fish in the Patuxent River to the west. Launch your boat from Hallowing Point Boat Ramp or fish from the pier at Kings Landing Park.

Solomons Boat Rental can meet your boat and equipment needs for a day on the water.

Captain George at Tyler’s Tackle Shop and Crab House can answer all of your questions about fishing in Calvert County. Stock up on bait, tackle, and live or steamed blue crabs while you are there. Whether you want to spend the day fishing the bay or kayaking the river, Bunky’s Charter Boats can get you outfitted for the day.

One visit to Calvert County, Maryland will have you coming back to fish again and again.

BRYSON CITY, NC

ALBEMARLE ANGLER, VA

chetola.com

Curtis Wright Outfitters, NC

choosecalvert.com/bro

Chetola Resort, NC Get away to Chetola Resort, an Orvis Endorsed lodge nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina.

The resort backs up to Moses Cone National Park and offers access to some of the best fly fishing in Western North Carolina.

Chetola’s expert guides will customize the perfect trip for you any time of the year. Wade into the rivers and streams of Pisgah National Forest or the private waters of Big Horse Creek and Boone Fork Creek.

Float down the Watauga and South Holston Rivers for trout or look for smallmouth bass on the Nolichucky and New Rivers. With all of the equipment, transportation, and instruction provided, you are free to enjoy your time on the water.

Combine fly fishing with a sporting clay shooting experience and end the day at Timberlake’s Restaurant and Pub. Book a getaway at Chetola Lodge, the Bob Timberlake Inn, or bring the entire family to the Chetola Premier Condominiums. Round out your trip with The Spa at Chetola Resort, onsite recreation center, indoor pool, fun games, and even the trout pond.

Book your next fly fishing trip with these Orvis Endorsed guides and see why Chetola Resort is the place to get away from the city, spend the day on the water, and soak in the views of the mountains.

CHETOLA RESORT, NC CALVERT COUNTY, MD

The folks at Curtis Wright Outfitters have everything you need to make your fishing trip to Western North Carolina memorable.

Whether you are looking for a wade or float trip, these guides know the best spots in the area for trout and smallmouth bass. Your trip includes all the gear, flies, and transportation needed to enjoy a day on the water.

They also offer multi-day packages to Yellowstone and along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

For beginners, they offer fly fishing and fly tying classes to enrich your experience on the water. Combine your fishing trip with an afternoon of shooting sporting clays for a full day of adventure. Or get up close and personal with a bird of prey with a licensed falconer for an experience you will never forget.

At the end of the day, head to the Sourwood Inn to relax and recharge.

Guest rooms feature a wood-burning fireplace, private balcony, and a bathtub with a view. Sit on the porch and read a book from their wellSPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

stocked library or walk along the two miles of trails on the property. From here, you can explore all that Asheville has to offer, including zip lining, white water rafting, hiking, and more. curtiswrightoutfitters.com | sourwoodinn.com

Foscoe Fishing Company and Outfitters, NC Since 1985, the guides at Foscoe Fishing Company and Outfitters have been leading fishing trips on the first class waters of Western North Carolina.

For more than 30 years, Foscoe has been the only Orvis Endorsed fly fishing outfitter and guide service in the High Country of North Carolina.

All of the guides are full time professional, have years of experience, and are passionate about fishing and the outdoors.

Choose from a variety of trips to fit your fishing needs. Cover miles of water in a McKenzie style drift boat as you float down the tail waters of the Watauga and South Holston Rivers in Eastern Tennessee. Explore the local waters of High Country on a wade trip, fishing for rainbow, brown, and brook trout.

For anglers looking for access to exclusive streams managed for the production of trophy trout, book a private water wade trip and test your skills with these fish. Ask your guide for opportunities to catch smallmouth bass in the area as well.

The outfitter provides all of the gear, flies, and transportation for the trip in addition to expert knowledge of the local rivers. Full day trips also include lunch. Make sure you have a valid fishing license and you will be good to go.

Stop by their full service fly shop between Boone and Banner Elk for all the supplies you might need. The shelves are stocked with Orvis and Simms products, Sage, Scott, Winston, and Echo rods, as well as all the other accessories a day on the water requires. The shop is located right by the Watauga River and is a short SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

drive from the Grandfather Mountain watershed.

Foscoe offers a selection of waders, boots, rods, and reels available for the day or a weekend. For beginning anglers, this is the perfect opportunity to try the equipment out before fully investing in the sport.

Head over to Appalachian Mountain Brewery the first Monday of the month for a free fly tying class and beer. Foscoe provides all of the tools and materials needed for the pattern or bring your own and practice your skills.

No matter the season, the guides at Foscoe know the best rivers and streams in Western North Carolina and Eastern Tennessee for a full day of fishing. Let these professionals take care of all the details on your next weekend getaway.

CURTIS WRIGHT OUTFITTERS, NC

foscoefishing.com

Frederick County, MD Easily accessible from D.C., Baltimore, and other metropolitan areas, Frederick, Maryland is a wellestablished fishing destination in the state. History, culture, and recreation all come together here for an outdoor adventure you are sure to love.

If you are looking for fly fishing, Big Hunting Creek is a freestone mountain stream and a premier fishing location in the state for wild brown trout. Accessible from Catoctin Mountain Park and Cunningham Falls State Park, Big Hunting Creek was the first stream in Maryland to be designated a catch-and-release area.

Several presidents and their guests have enjoyed fishing this stream while visiting the area.

Paddle along the Monocacy River in search of smallmouth bass, bluegills, channel catfish and more.

For anglers interested in spin fishing, Catoctin Creek provides miles of waterway and nature to explore. Both the Monocacy and Catoctin empty into the Potomac River near the Maryland and Virginia border, playing a vital role in the health of the Chesapeake

FREDERICK COUNTY, MD FOSCOE FISHING COMPANY AND OUTFITTERS, NC

Bay. The waters of the Potomac provide further opportunities to catch smallmouth bass, walleye, and muskie on a world class river.

New anglers should head to Gambrill State Park on the ridge of the Catoctin Mountains. Catch largemouth bass, bluegill, and channel catfish in the free fishing pond near Rock Run, no license required. Reserve a campsite or cabin for a night to take full advantage of the location. Fish for wild or hatchery trout in Owens Creek, a secluded stream away from the city.

For 17 years, the folks at Hunting Creek Outfitters in Downtown Frederick have been the spot for gear recommendations, encouragement, and tales from the water. Stock up on fly tying supplies, reels, and waders from well-known brands. Check out their stream reports online or in the store, updated regularly with fishing conditions in the area.

a vintage 1920s passenger car as the Walkersville Southern Railroad runs through the Maryland countryside.

With over 200 boutique shops and unique restaurants in Downtown Frederick and 20 tasting rooms in the county, there is plenty to do at the end of the day. Head to Springfield Manor Winery, Distillery, and Brewery on Friday nights for drink tastings, food trucks, and trivia or take a backstage tour of the Weinberg Center for the Arts, a former silent movie palace from the 1920s.

Plan your visit for the annual Maple Syrup Festival in March.

Enjoy a pancake breakfast, sugaring demonstrations, and a short hike to Cunningham Falls. Proceeds support the conservation and upkeep of local state parks.

There is always something new to explore when you visit Frederick, Maryland. visitfrederick.org

STAY AWHILE: When you’re done fishing, explore more of what Frederick County has to offer. Visit Cunningham Falls State Park for swimming, canoeing, and views of the 78-foot cascading waterfall. Hike up High Knob for views of the Frederick and Middletown Valleys from three different overlooks at Gambrill State Park. Grab a mountain bike and challenge yourself on miles of technical trails. If you are looking for an urban biking adventure, rent an electric bike from Pedego Frederick and explore all the city has to offer.

Get up close with bison, sheep, and more in an open-air truck on a safari excursion through the Catoctin Wildlife Preserve and Zoo or bottle feed a calf at South Mountain Creamery before trying some of their delicious ice cream made with ingredients from the farm.

Learn from important Civil War sites, including the National Museum of Civil War Medicine and Monocacy National Battlefield or ride into Downtown Frederick on the scenic Historic National Road, the first federally funded interstate highway. Enjoy a four-course meal in

FREDERICK COUNTY, MD

Grant and Pendleton County, WV Grant and Pendleton County, West Virginia are an outdoor enthusiast’s dream with easy access to Seneca Rocks, Monongahela and George Washington National Forest, and Dolly Sods Wilderness. Surround by soaring mountains and well stocked waters, these fishing destinations have something for every angler.

You’ll find wild populations of brown and rainbow trout at Seneca Creek and Spring Run while Brushy Fork Lake offers an assortment of largemouth bass, bluegill, and green sunfish. Fly anglers should head to the North Fork of the South Branch Potomac River for some of the best trout fishing around. Check out wvdnr. org for water conditions, license requirements, and stocking schedules ahead of time.

When you are not on the water, hike Spruce Knob, the highest point in West Virginia, or make your way deep into Seneca Caverns and

GRANT AND PENDLETON COUNTY, WV SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Smoke Hole Caverns for formations fashioned over millions of years. Defy heights on one of the few via ferratas on the East Coast at NROCKS. Refuel in town with a meal at Cheetah B’s or the Fireside Café, serving up burgers, smothered fries, and more. Stop by the South Side Depot for all things made in West Virginia, including Swilled Dog cider and West White-Hill wine.

It is always a good time to visit this angler’s paradise. visitgrantcounty.com | pendletoncountywv.com

Patrick County, VA

PATRICK COUNTY, VA

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With an abundance of lakes and rivers in the area, Patrick County, Virginia has several opportunities for first class fishing.

Make your way along the Dan River, flowing from the Blue Ridge Mountains, as you chase brook, rainbow, and brown trout. The many landscapes of the river offer a variety of fishing opportunities, including access via small motorboats, handcarried boats, and wade fishing. You will also find bass, sunfish, walleye, and more on this unique river. The Kibler Valley section is a Category A put-and-take trout stream.

Right off the Blue Ridge Parkway, you will find Rock Castle Creek.

This cold and rocky stream is great for fishing wild trout in addition to pickerel and sunfish.

At the northeastern part of the county, Philpott Lake offers an undeveloped backdrop for a day on the water. This lake is popular for its largemouth and smallmouth bass, crappie, and catfish. It is also one of Virginia’s premier destinations for walleye. Several boat ramps, campgrounds, and hiking trails are scattered around the 2,880-acre lake, making this an ideal destination for a weekend getaway.

Adjacent to the lake, Fairy Stone State Park offers fun for the whole family. Rent a boat for the day to cast your line on Fairy Stone Lake for bass, bluegill, and crappie. Hike, bike,

or ride a horse through the 10 miles of multi-use trails or hunt for fairy stones, Staurolite crystals only found in a few places around the world.

Visit the Primland Resort for a variety of activities, including sport shooting, archery, and tomahawk throwing. Sit down for local dishes at Elements, drinks at 19th Pub, and southern cuisine at Stables Saloon.

Stick around until it turns dark for stargazing at the Observatory Dome.

Check out the Virginia Motorsports Museum and Hall of Fame and the Wood Brothers Racing Museum for a deep dive into NASCAR history and the oldest continuously operating team.

At the end of the day, chow down on pizza from Elizabeth’s Pizza or Crooked Road Café. Get your fill of seafood, burgers, and homemade potato chips from the Stuart Family Restaurant and wake up in the morning to a cup of coffee from Honduras Coffee Company. Visit the Stanburn Winery or Villa Appalaccia Winery for locally harvested wines and stunning views of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

From the rugged outdoors to five-star luxury experiences, there are many reasons to plan your next adventure to Patrick County. visitpatrickcounty.org

Pocahontas, WV There are seemingly endless places to cast your line when you visit Pocahontas County, West Virginia, known as the Birthplace of Rivers.

Surrounded by the Monongahela National Forest, spring is the perfect time to spend your days searching for a spot on one of the numerous streams and small lakes throughout this pristine wilderness.

Catch trout, smallmouth bass, and channel catfish from one of the eight rivers that run through the area, including Shavers Fork of the Cheat River and the Williams River.

Retreat to Buffalo Lake for 21 acres of refreshing solitude and the largest trout stock in the county.

WAYNESBORO, VA WAYNESBORO, VA

Gather all the food, supplies, and souvenirs you need for a day on the water from Jack Horner’s Corner or Route 66 Outpost. Don’t forget to pick up a valid fishing license from McCoy’s Market, Appalachian Sport, Watoga State Park, or Trent’s General Store before heading out.

If you’re looking to take a break from casting lines, float the Greenbrier River on a tube or watch a live snake show at the Cranberry Mountain Nature Center. Rent bikes for the day and ride the Greenbrier River Trail, a rail-to--trail that runs through some of West Virginia’s most remote areas.

Come find out why anglers choose to return to Pocahontas County year after year.

NaturesMountainPlayground.com

Virginia State Parks, VA

VIRGINIA STATE PARKS

From the Atlantic Ocean and Chesapeake Bay to the rivers of the Blue Ridge Mountains, there is a fishing spot for everyone in the Virginia State Parks.

Douthat Park near Clifton Forge is the perfect place to introduce your little one to the joys of fishing. Just below the dammed section of Wilson Creek is a special fishing area for children 12 and under only. They can try their hand at catching trout before moving up to the 50-acre Douthat Lake for largemouth bass, sunfish, and crappie.

With more than 10 miles of shoreline, there are plenty of fishing spots to choose from along the bank of Lake Anna in addition to access from the public boat ramp. Known for its largemouth bass, you can also find crappie, bream, and other freshwater fish at this this destination. Hike or bike through the miles of scenic trails for a break from the water. Easily accessible from Northern Virginia, Richmond, and Norfolk, turn your fishing trip into a weekend getaway by staying at one of several cabins, lodges, yurts, or campsites available for rent.

Bass, muskie, walleye, yellow perch, redbreast sunfish, bluegill, the

New River has it all. Several state records have established this river as a go to fishing spot. Grab a kayak, canoe, or tube and make your way down this winding river or follow the waterway for miles along the parallel trail. Just down the road at Claytor Lake, you’ll find another gem for sport fishing. A full-service marina has all you could need for a day on the water, including a variety of boats, multi-day dock rentals, fuel, and fishing supplies.

Located in Northern Virginia, Mason Neck State Park offers fresh and brackish water fishing on Belmont Bay and Kane’s Creek.

Be on the lookout for wildlife in this protected area known for its largemouth bass and bald eagles. Rent a boat to explore the park by water or take one of the elevated walkways through the marshes.

At Kiptopeke and First Landing State Park, you’ll have direct access to fishing and crabbing in both the Atlantic Ocean and the Chesapeake Bay. Reel in flounder, spadefish, cobia, and more from the miles of open beaches or the Kiptopeke pier.

All Virginia State Parks require a valid fishing license except for the piers at Kiptopeke and York River State Park where a fee covers users.

Find your next fishing adventure at one of Virginia’s State Parks. www.VirginiaStateParks.gov

Waynesboro, VA Located a short drive from the entrance to the Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive, Waynesboro, Virginia is a trout angler’s dream. Fish thrive in the mountain waters of the George Washington National Forest and Shenandoah National Park.

Fly anglers should head to the South River flowing through downtown Waynesboro for trophysized rainbow and brown trout.

Running parallel, the South River Greenway provides parking and easy access to the river. The 2.2-mile catchand-release section, extending from Wayne Avenue bridge downstream SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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to Second Street bridge, is one of two urban trout fisheries in Virginia.

Further upstream, you’ll find the put-and-take section of the river at Ridgeview Park.

If you are looking for a trip away from the city, Sherando Lake in the George Washington National Forest is stocked with trout and surrounded by mountains. Cool off in the refreshing waters of the lower lake, explore the hiking trails to the Blue Ridge Parkway and Bald Mountain, and spend the night at one of several campsites in the forest. If you have time, take a drive on the parkway and hike Humpback Rocks. The breathtaking view at the top makes the strenuous hike worthwhile.

While in town, visit the professionals at South River Fly Shop for fishing gear, advice, and guided excursions. With decades of experience, the folks at the highest

rated fly shop in the Shenandoah Valley can point you in the right direction. For a more enriched outing, book a guided trip to the nearby South River or further out to the James and Jackson Rivers.

Plan your visit for the end of April when the South River Fly Fishing Expo showcases Waynesboro’s unique urban fishery. Hear from expert anglers, practice casting or tying a fly, and sample local food and drinks.

Proceeds from the event support habitat conservation and restoration on the South River. Bring the whole family to Riverfest Waynesboro on May 4 to support the Shenandoah River Basin while watching reptile shows and rubber duck races.

STAY AWHILE: After you’ve closed your tackle box, take advantage of Waynesboro’s cultural offerings. Stop

by Jake’s Bar and Grill, a favorite

of thru hikers on the Appalachian Trail, and try one of their burgers or sandwiches topped with their signature sauces made in house. Or opt for the tantalizing flavors that come from Hop’s Kitchen, where globally influenced dishes meet beer infusions from Basic City Beer Co. Their Smoked Pork Nachos with Beer Cheese was recently recognized in Food Network’s 50 States of Nachos!

Cruise through the Shenandoah Beerwerks Trail, a series of fourteen breweries within an hour of each other, for beautiful mountain views, live entertainment, and local brews.

Visit Basic City Beer Co., Seven Arrows Brewing, and Stable Craft Brewing in Waynesboro before discovering the rest of the trail. With more than 40 wineries, breweries, and distilleries within 30 miles, you are sure to find something you like.

Fill up with organic kombucha at

Blue Ridge Bucha, Virginia’s first dedicated kombucha taproom. The owners are committed to running a sustainable business using only reusable containers.

In the evening, catch a movie, show, or concert at the historic Wayne Theatre. Originally opened as a vaudeville house in 1926, the recently restored theatre hosts a variety of cultural events in a world class venue. And be sure to stop at Kline’s Dairy Bar for a scoop of your favorite ice cream made fresh every day. Play a round of night mini-golf at Waynesboro Golf and Games long after the sun goes down or race go-karts at Fastrax. During the summer, look for outdoor music festivals performed in front of a mountain backdrop.

Spring-fed waters, mountain views, and alluring activities make Waynesboro the ideal angler’s getaway! visitwaynesboro.net

Spring fishing GIVEAWAY 1. CHETOLA RESORT

An Orvis-Endorsed Fly Fishing Lodge

2 NIGHT STAY + 1 DAY FLY FISHING WADE TRIP FOR 2 with our Orvis Endorsed Fly Fishing Guides on Private Waters + 1 DAY OF CLAY SHOOTING at the Chetola Sporting Reserve + 1 DINNER FOR 2 and DAILY BREAKFAST FOR 2 in Timberlake’s Restaurant + 2 SWEDISH MASSAGES AT THE SPA VALUE $3,000

*(Blackout Dates and Restrictions Apply) chetola.com

2. ORVIS HELIOS 3F OUTFIT 8’6” 5 WT. 4PC HELIOS 3F OUTFIT. INCLUDES A MIRAGE II REEL & HYDROS WF 5 TROUT LINE - VALUE $1,475

orvis.com

3. NATIVE EYEWEAR + RAGHORN SUNGLASSES - N3 POLARIZED LENS - MATTE BLACK WITH GREEN REFLEX - VALUE $129 + GRIZ SUNGLASSES - N3 POLARIZED LENS - DESERT TAN WITH GRAY - VALUE $109

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4. GREGORY QUADRO HARDCASE ROLLER 22” A DURABLE HARDCASE THAT PROTECTS YOUR STUFF AND 4-WHEELS THAT KEEP YOU MOVING - VALUE $169.95

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sign up for a chance to win this awesome fishing package $3,500+ Value BLUEridgeoutdoors.com/springfishing2019

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Big Lick Retreat

LAKE MOOMAW, VA Lodge and guest houses nestled on 2900 mountain acres with private access to Lake Moomaw and surrounded by National Forest. Big Lick Retreat is the perfect outdoor getaway with unparalleled lake and mountain views.

Fishing, canoeing, swimming, hiking, biking, boating, and horseback riding.

BIGLICKRETREAT.COM

Blue Moon Rising

DEEP CREEK LAKE, MD Blue Moon Rising is the most innovative, enchanting, and environmentally friendly place to stay in Deep Creek Lake, Maryland. It comes with one of the most stunning views you will find.

Perfect for every occasion, a vacation stay in one of our tiny home cabins at Blue Moon Rising will create memories that last a lifetime!

BLUEMOONRISING.ORG

Capon Springs & Farms

CAPON SPRINGS, WV Our family welcomes you to our true old fashioned all-inclusive mountain resort —about 20 minutes from I-81 near Strasburg, VA. Feast on our farm fresh eggs

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Great Lodging Destinations in the Blue Ridge!

and delicious baked goods prepared daily; rejuvenate with healing spring water that flows throughout the entire resort. Historical buildings and natural beauty abound! Golf, spa and lots of onsite recreation. 110 room capacity.

CAPONSPRINGS.NET

The Horse Shoe Farm

HENDERSONVILLE, NC Offering over eighty acres of pristine river front farmland, a selection of individual guest homes, stables, and event venues, The Horse Shoe Farm is a retreat unlike any other. Located in the heart of Western North Carolina, minutes from Hendersonville, Asheville, and Tryon, The Horse Farm is waiting to share its magic with you.

THEHORSESHOEFARM.COM

The Inn at Gristmill Square WARM SPRINGS, VA This boutique inn and restaurant located in the heart of the George Washington National Forest is the ideal accommodation for families, friends, small groups, business retreats, and intimate wedding parties. Enjoy a complimentary continental

breakfast in-room daily with chef’s goodies, freshly squeezed juice, and deliciously hot coffee, the perfect start to full day of enjoying of all that Bath County has to offer. Onsite amenities include an outdoor pool, select rooms with wood-burning fireplaces, gift shop, and an award winning restaurant complete with a wine cellar from which guests can select their wine. Located just across the street guests can enjoy facials or massages at the neighboring Warm Spirit Spa. GRISTMILLSQUARE.COM

Landmark Realty Group

CASHIERS, NC Landmark Realty Group is a boutique real estate firm founded on the Plateau in 2004. Landmark currently has four offices in North Carolina serving Cashiers, Highlands, Lake Glenville, Sapphire and Lake Toxaway.

Our Landmark Vacation Rental program offers approximately 100 homes for our clients. The Park on Main Hotel in Highlands is also a part of the Landmark Family. We are coaches, mentors, hikers, fundraisers, relief workers and stewards of the lakes and land. We sit

on professional association boards, school boards and are animal rescue volunteers.

We are husbands, wives, parents, neighbors and friends. We are the brokers and staff of Landmark Real Estate Sales and Vacation Rentals.

LANDMARKRG.COM

Pilot Cove

PISGAH FOREST, NC Pilot Cove is a premier hospitality resort for family fun and outdoor recreation tourism. Located adjacent to the vast Pisgah National Forest and its renowned trails and trophy waters, Pilot Cove is also a short drive or bike ride from Brevard, NC, offering the perfect basecamp and your complete vacation experience.

PILOTCOVE.COM

Primland

MEADOWS OF DAN, VA At Primland, outside is a destination unto itself.

From June through August, lodging guests enjoy complimentary activities and clinics that are both engaging and educational, guided by a knowledgeable and expertly trained team.

You can bike, hike, horseback ride, drive RTVs, learn the

basics of flying fishing or archery - every corner of our Blue Ridge Mountain resort offers something new.

PRIMLAND.COM

The Red Horse Inn

LANDRUM, SC Escape your day-to-day life and enjoy a getaway in South Carolina’s Foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. If you are seeking a weekend getaway or celebrating a birthday, anniversary or wedding, you will be happily surprised by The Red Horse Inn. With six amazing rooms in the Main Inn and six cottages there is something for everyone.

THEREDHORSEINN.COM

River View Inn

CHATTANOOGA, TN Enjoy panoramic views of the Tennessee River. Sip coffee in an old-fashioned rocking chair. Relax in our heated pool.* Built in 1935, RiverView Inn is a resortstyle, boutique inn nestled on Lookout Mountain, minutes from Rock City Gardens, Ruby Falls, and the Incline Railway. Convenient to hiking and biking trails, hang-gliding and more. Continental breakfast & Wi-Fi included. *Seasonal.

STAYATRIVERVIEWINN.COM

THE GOODS

T H E B E S T G E A R F O R F LY F I S H I N G

FLY GEAR TOP REGIONAL GUIDES DISH ON INDISPENSABLE GEAR

BY NICK CARTER

FLY FISHERS ARE GEAR PEOPLE. THERE ARE

closets full of rods, reels, tools and tying materials. Boxes of flies, acquired long ago for a particular stream and season, wait forgotten in the pocket of an old vest. All of it has, or had, a purpose. Yet there are certain items that always make the cut during pre-trip packing. To identify those indispensable pieces of gear, we spoke to fishing guides around the region.

These guys make their living on the water every day, and here are the items they wouldn’t go fishing without.

DR. SLICK XBC MITTEN SCISSOR CLAMPS, $23 Dr. Slick has elevated your handy hemostats into a multi-purpose tool that’s easier to use and reduces the amount of metal jangling from your vest. Eugene Shuler, of Fly Fishing The Smokies in Bryson City, N.C., said Dr. Slick’s Mitten Scissor Clamps are a tool he keeps on hand for a variety of uses, whether he’s floating the Tuckasegee or exploring highelevation speck streams. “It’s easier to deal with when you’ve got cold, wet hands,” Shuler said. “And it’s one little lightweight tool that takes the place of several others.” Dr. Slick replaced the standard finger-loop system with a spring-loaded squeeze-and-go ratchet release, which means there’s no fingerfumbling when there’s a fish in the net.

Serrated scissors behind the jaws take the place of nippers, and there’s also a pin for cleaning hook eyes.

SMITH GUIDE’S CHOICE SUNGLASSES (COPPER LENS), $179 Chasing musky, smallmouths and trout can be a visual endeavor. Many times you must see a fish to make it eat. That’s why guide Matt Reilly views sunglasses as one of the most important tools in the boat. Right now, he’s wearing a pair of Smith Guide’s Choice glasses 32

with copper-colored lenses. He said they’re the best he’s found for seeing into the shallow cobble-bottom rivers of southwest Virginia.

Everyone knows polarized lenses cut glare so you can see into the water. Reilly said Smith lenses also provide excellent clarity, and copper is a good all-around color enhancement that sharpens contrast to reveal the shadows and subtle movements that betray fish against a mottled streambed.

He even keeps a couple pairs in the boat box so clients can see what he sees.

The frames were designed for anglers with wide temples and an aggressive wrap to comfortably protect from both sunlight and errant casts.

CLACKACRAFT 16’ WEIGHT FORWARD, $9,495 After declaring everything on his boat essential, Rocky Cox, of Rocky Top Anglers in Knoxville, Tenn., settled on the boat itself as one item he couldn’t do without. He fishes Tennessee tailwaters, where low flows make for a shallow, rocky ride down the river. His fiberglass Clackacraft has the maneuverability and durability to navigate waters that would shred some driftboats. “The thing with a Clackacraft is they’re so darn tough,” he said. “They handle rocks really well, and I wouldn’t row anything else.”

Scraping bottom is unavoidable, but avoiding collisions saves a lot of wear and tear on a hull. Agility is a big part of what makes Clackacraft one of the most popular driftboats on the market.

Cox said his boat rides high with a shallow draft and that it planes out better than other driftboats. He said his boat’s performance makes it as much fun to row as it is to fish from.

FISHPOND NOMAD BOAT NET, $240 “We’re gonna need a bigger net” is not necessarily a bad thing to hear. But that need won’t exist with Fishpond’s Nomad Boat Net on board.

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019

Greg Williams, of Cumberland Bottom Ticklers in Kentucky, uses his Nomad to net every trout he catches on the Cumberland tailrace. He said it’s easier on tippets and trout. With a length of 55 inches and a 24.75-inch x 16-inch head, this net has good reach and can handle fish up to 30 inches and longer. It has a bag depth of 14 inches. Williams likes Nomads because they are lightweight and float like a cork. Composite construction also keeps them from getting too hot in summer or too cold in winter.

The replaceable rubber net is gentle on fish and doesn’t tangle in tippets.

SIMMS G3 GUIDE WADING BOOTS, $250 It seems a lot of guides are loyal to Simms wading gear. When we told guide John Schablein that someone had already reviewed Simms waders for us, he went straight to the boots.

Fishing out of Charlottesville, Va., Schablein and the rest of the crew at Albermarle Angler guide on a wide variety of waters statewide. Whether he’s scrambling up the North Fork of the Moormans for brookies or floating the Shenandoah for musky, he’ll be wearing a pair of Simms G3 Guide Wading Boots.

“You can’t beat them for durability and support,” he said.

With outstanding ankle support and designed for improved underfoot feel, G3 boots are intended to keep you upright and safe when wading. Available with both felt and Vibram soles to suit preferences, these boots also feature integrated plates for installing cleats. They’ll be just as comfortable during a long hike in as they are gripping boulders in a waistdeep run.

ECHO DRY FLY RODS, $230 Dave Breitmeier was surprised by the performance when a friend let him test-drive an Echo rod. Since then, he’s added several Echos to his arsenal and prefers them to many rods that have a much higher price point. Breitmeier fishes Echo Dry 2- or 3-weight rods while wading West Virginia’s Elk River, where he guides. He said it’s a good dry fly rod, and it’s also got enough backbone and power to cast streamers and nymphs. The 9-foot length provides reach for high sticking, and Breitmeier said he doesn’t hesitate to add weight to get nymphs down, which can become unmanageable with many light rods.

“It’s a lot of fun, and you’re not locked into a particular style of fishing,” he said. "This is just a great stick, man, especially for the money.”

The Echo Dry lineup consists of 2- through 6-weight rods. They are all 9-foot, medium-fast action, 4-piece rods that are feather-light at about 3 ounces.

SIMMS G3 GUIDE WADERS STOCKING FOOT, $550 “Most of us who are on the water every day go with Simms waders,” said Joe DiPietro, of North Georgia Trout Fishing. “They are the Cadillac of waders. Spend the money now and you’ll have a pair of waders for life.”

That’s pretty high praise from a guy with a rap sheet for abuse of fishing gear. Simms waders do cost more, but DiPietro said it’s worth it in the long run because they’ll last longer and because the company stands behind its waders. The Simms repair and replacement policy is one of the best in the industry.

DiPietro said the company’s top-of-the-line G4 waders are solid, but he prefers the G3s without the bells and whistles. Durability is the result of strategically placed reinforcement, meticulous craftsmanship and design that places seams where they are less likely to split.

Always Cheat, Always Win: Wilderness Survival 101 SEARCH AND RESCUE LEADER ANDREW HERRINGTON THROWS HIS STUDENTS INTO ICY CREEKS AND TEACHES THEM HOW TO SAVE THEMSELVES. OUR TRAVEL EDITOR ELLEN KANZINGER SIGNED UP.

BY ELLEN KANZINGER

W

hen I registered for Andrew Herrington’s Survival 101 class, he told me, “I hope it’s cold as shit for your class.” That’s his mentality when it comes to teaching wilderness survival. Train in the worst conditions and you’ll be able to survive anything.

He certainly got his wish there. Although the temperature over the weekend only dropped to 38 degrees, Mother Nature blessed us with a near constant cold rain for 24 hours. By the end of the two-day class, I couldn’t remember what it was like to have clothes that weren’t damp.

I met Herrington, founder of Team BUSAR and a National Park employee, last year for a story about winter wilderness survival. He started BigPig Outdoors in 2013, teaching a variety of classes on land navigation, tracking, and survival. After writing the article, Herrington invited me back to experience one of his classes for myself.

In January, BRO Editor-in-Chief Will Harlan and I traveled to Tallassee, Tennessee for a weekend in the woods. From the moment we arrived at the campsite on a Saturday morning, Herrington put us to work collecting cattails for our bedding that night.

We spent the bulk of the day going over a variety of wilderness survival topics, including basic first aid, search and rescue procedure, signaling, and cultivating the right mindset in a stressful situation.

ELLEN KANZINGER WA R M S U P I N T H E HYPTHERMIA BURRITO.

The weather was surprisingly mild at first, and I was warm in my thermal shirt, fleece pullover, and puffy jacket.

“This isn’t that bad,” I said to myself. “I don’t know what I was so worried about. You totally got this.”

As we moved into the basic principles of starting and maintaining a fire, the wind began to pick up and the rain rolled in.

Talk about training in some of the worst conditions possible. There is nothing quite like trying to get a fire going as the rain comes down, your hands shake from the cold, and Herrington yells at you to gather more pencil-sized twigs or else your baby dragon won’t have enough food to survive. Your baby dragon being your baby fire that you need to feed and nurture as it grows.

This was the source of my anxiety all week as the chance for rain that weekend increased every time I checked the forecast. Now that the rain had arrived, there was nothing I could do but get through it.

Our class of six decided to build two shelters that night with a fire in the middle to keep us warm.

But we lacked a sense of urgency in gathering our supplies.

Darkness came quickly, ensuring our job would be infinitely harder. I stumbled around the woods looking for saplings to build our shelters’ frames. With my headlamp as my only source of light, I only narrowly avoided twisting my ankle and falling down the hill on several occasions.

Lesson learned. If you’re stuck in a situation where you know you’ll have to spend the night outside, whether it’s because you’re lost or your transportation breaks down, start constructing your shelter as early as possible.

After dinner, it was time to start our fire and settle in for the night.

Normally I find the sound of rain comforting as I fall asleep. But as each raindrop fell on the plastic tarp a mere six inches from my face, all I could think about was how cold and damp I was. I had lost all sense of time hours ago. Or maybe it had only been a few minutes since I lay down. My heart would start racing at the quietest sound coming from outside.

As the fire would die down, the shelter would cool off and it became harder to control the shivers making their way through my body. I would get up, add more fuel to the fire, and build it back up to a roaring flame. This cycle continued throughout the night, ensuring I was never comfortable enough to fall asleep.

Sunday consisted of more lectures and drills. And lots of fires. We started fires with wet lighters, fires with flint bars, fires with a kindling kit we made, and fires with kindling we found naturally.

As we competed against the rain to get our fires going, I could hear Herrington in my head saying, “Always cheat, always win. Carry the shit you need.”

Lesson learned. Fires are much easier to start with a homemade starter kit of fatwood sticks and Vaseline covered cotton balls than anything we could find naturally. Plus, carrying a kit cuts down on time foraging for supplies.

Herrington then demonstrated multiple uses for a clear garbage bag, such as ripping a hole for your face and arms and wearing it as an insulator to keep warm.

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019

ANDREW HERRINGTON EXPLAINS THE PERSON IN THE CREEK DRILL TO THE CLASS. / PHOTO BY BRIAN BORKOWSKI.

The weekend culminated in the “man or woman in the creek” drill. In the weeks leading up to the class, this was the part I dreaded the most. The point is to simulate a full body immersion scenario where you have to drag your cold, wet body out of the water and build a fire before hypothermia sets in.

We started with just our feet and shins submerged in the creek. As we adjusted to the temperature, a refreshing 51 degrees, we slipped deeper into the creek until only our heads were above water. One by one, Herrington called on each person to think about the reasons they were taking the class and then dunk their head underwater.

I lost track of time again as I struggled to breathe through the cold. I couldn’t have been in the water for more than five minutes before Herrington called my name to get out. Stumbling up the creek bank, struggling to put one foot in front of the other, I went off in search of firewood.

A deep sense of satisfaction set in when I was finally able to get my fire going despite a lighter that wouldn’t work, water dripping from every inch of body, and fingers too stiff to grasp anything tightly.

I am not going to lie. I consider that weekend to be among some of the worst 36 hours of my life.

But next time I head outside, whether it’s just for a day hike or a week-long trip, I will be prepared for just about anything that may happen, repeating Herrington’s mantra: Always cheat, always win.

Key Takeaways: 1. Let someone know where you’re going and when you plan to be back. Fill out a trip plan from BigPigOutdoors.com with all the details a search and rescue team could use if you go missing.

2. Always carry a puffy jacket and fire-starting tools, even in the summer. Temperatures can drop overnight, and you don’t want to be caught without the right gear. Add in a few clear garbage bags and you’ll be set.

3. Take a wilderness survival course. Better to learn the skills and never use them than be caught unprepared in an emergency situation. After that, take a wilderness first aid class and a land navigation class. As Herrington says, “If you do all of that, you’re ready for 99 percent of wilderness emergencies.”

4. “You can treat an infection, you can’t treat dead.”

When it comes down to survival or a virus, drink the water. It typically takes a few days for symptoms to manifest and most survival situations are over within the first 12 hours.

Thanks to Andrew Herrington, Brian Borkowski, and Greg Grieco, members of Team BUSAR, a search and rescue team operating in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, for sharing their expertise and tips with the class.

The Albemarle Angler

We are a full-service fly shop and outdoor outfitter in Charlottesville, VA. We offer guide service anddestination travel as well as Orvis, Simms, Sage, Barbour, Filson products & more.

HOURLY, HALF & FULL DAY LESSONS AND GUIDED TRIPS IN VIRGINIA CONTACT FOR AVAILABILITY 434.977.6882 VISIT ALBEMARLEANGLER.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION

BARRACKS ROAD CENTER | 1129 EMMET ST, #26 | CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA 22903

MARCH 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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alternate a.t.

LOOKING FOR A DIFFERENT KIND OF THRU-HIKE? TRY ONE OF THESE LESS-CROWDED LONG-DISTANCE TRAILS.

SUNSET ON THE PA L M E T T O T R A I L . / PHOTO BY JOHN BALDWIN

BY ELLEN KANZINGER

S

ince Earl Shaffer claimed the first Appalachian Trail thru-hike in the 1940s, hikers from around the world have set out on the 2,200-mile trail in search of something.

The power and solitude of the trail has been well documented in popular books, films, and now social media.

But as the number of people attempting to thru hike continues to grow, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy is trying to promote more sustainable use to preserve the National Scenic Trail for generations to come.

Laurie Potteiger, the information services manager for the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, said the number of thru hikers has been steadily increasing since the 70s, especially in recent years as the trail and resources have become more accessible.

“Some days, more than 100 people were starting,” Potteiger said. “Close to 4,000 people started in 2017. The way that you impact the trail has a really big variation depending on how you conduct yourself and when you go. There’s a lot we can do to educate people about making choices that help preserve the trail and give them the best experience.”

Although an A.T. thru hike does not require a permit, attempting hikers can now register their trip on the conservancy’s website. This allows hikers to see when the busiest days are and plan accordingly.

The ATC has also started promoting the idea of a flip flop thru hike instead of the traditional point to

point, northbound, or southbound route.

“It benefits the trail to spread out hikers, but it can also benefit the hiker,” Potteiger said. “It may not be for everyone. We’re just offering a different way to experience the trail that might be more appealing to you. The terrain is more gentle toward the middle of the trail. You can start later, miss the cold, snow, and ice, as well as the crowds. So, you can eliminate those negative factors.”

The idea is catching on. In 2017, there were more flip floppers than southbound thru hikers for the first time. The impact flip floppers have spreads beyond the trail.

A LT E R N AT E A .T. T H R U H I K E As a trail maintainer for the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, Deb “Mona Lisa” Coleman had seen firsthand the effects of increased use on the A.T. When she started doing research for her 2017 thru-hike, she envisioned starting at the southern terminus in Georgia and making her way north to Maine like the majority of thru-hikers. That is, until she came across the concept of a flip flop hike on the ATC’s website.

“I knew about the impact on the trail that the bubble from northbound hikers have,” Coleman said.

“It just made sense when I read about the crowds and lessening my impact on the trail.”

With a flip flop, there are almost infinite routes

as thru hikers can start anywhere on the trail. After making it to the southern or northern terminus, they return to the starting point and head in the opposite direction.

“I think I came to a full shelter only one time, which is pretty amazing,” Coleman said. “North bounders have a really hard time not just finding space in the shelters but even finding campsites.

I think that’s a big part of the impact of the bubble is that there are more people that are camping so they’re camping in pristine areas.”

The most common flip flop, and the one Coleman took, starts in Harpers Ferry, W. Va. northbound. After climbing Mount Katahdin in Maine, she traveled back to Harpers Ferry and made her way south to Springer Mountain, Georgia.

Coleman said this route made sense for her because she couldn’t start until May, it made it easier to build her trail legs, and gave her a psychological advantage because she didn’t see as many hikers leaving the trail.

“I started in a relatively easy part of the trail where the terrain did not have as many elevation changes,” she said. “It got increasingly more difficult so by the time I got to the hardest part of the trail, which was New Hampshire and Maine, I felt like I was really ready. The trail had prepared me. But I hadn’t been on the trail for so long that I was feeling depleted.”

The advantages of a flip flop extend beyond the hiker and the trail.

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“The flip floppers help to support the trail side communities and businesses,” Coleman said. “When we come through, it’s their off season so we help them to extend their season. That’s good for the trail and good for hikers in general.”

Whether you’re looking for a shorter thru hike or a less crowded one, explore one of these long-distance trails, in various stages of completion, for a new experience.

TUSCARORA TRAIL

VA., W. VA., MD., AND PENN. Over the course of two years, Pete Taylor and his hiking partner hiked all 252 miles of the Tuscarora Trail. Designed as an alternative route on the A.T. when developers struggled to get the right of way through Virginia and Maryland, the Tuscarora challenges hikers of all abilities.

“The Tuscarora follows a very rocky ridge,” Taylor said. “It is not a fun hike from that standpoint. Once you get into Pennsylvania, or Rocksylvania as we like to refer to it, it is very, very rugged. You’ll go for miles on nothing but rock scrambles. It’s a spectacular hike with all of the vistas, but it’s a very difficult hike.”

Thru hikers also have to contend with how to resupply as the trail communities are not built up like they are along the A.T. “A lot of people will go up ahead of time and drop off food,” Taylor said. “But there are a lot of opportunities if you’ve got someone who is willing to resupply you because you spend a lot of time hiking on roads.”

The Tuscarora offer hikers a quieter trail before meeting up with the A.T. at both the southern and northern terminus.

“The Tuscarora Trail is what the Appalachian Trail was 30 years ago,” Taylor said.

CUMBERLAND TRAIL TENN.

More than 50 years after plans for the Cumberland Trail were first proposed, the 300-mile project is on its way to linking the public lands in Eastern Tennessee along the Cumberland Plateau.

Day hikers can choose from several trails varying in length and difficulty while thru hikers should be prepared for strenuous elevation change and rocky terrain in the more remote areas.

“It offers the ability to get away in solitude,” said Rob Weber. “There are certain trailheads that are pretty busy on the weekend, but if you’re going to hike the Cumberland Trail, you’re really going to get into some of the last wilderness in the Cumberland Plateau. It’s areas that we’ve been working for the last couple decades to put under conservation protection.”

Weber, chair of the Cumberland Trail Conference, said that with 93 percent of the land acquired, the focus is now on constructing the remaining 90 miles of trail.

“With so much of the trail acquired, we’re in this critical point where we’re putting all of our energy towards building,” Weber said. “We have more corridor than we know how to get built. That’s a good sign of a victory.”

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The conference has a paid crew working on the trail, funded through private donations, grants, and any creative methods they can think of, in addition to volunteers. They also host college students every year through the Alternative Spring Break program.

PINHOTI NATIONAL RECREATION TRAIL ALA. AND GA.

When Michelle Markel finished her thru hike of the Pacific Crest Trail, she started looking for the longest hikes around the country. At 337 miles, the Pinhoti is the longest trail in Alabama and Georgia, running through the Talladega and Chattahoochee National Forests.

“The Pinhoti is a really great trail to go out and thru hike to see if you really like it,” Markel said. “A lot of people will go out and spend $1,000 on gear, quit their jobs, give their boss the middle finger. Then they get out and three days later, they’re like I don’t really like this. So, the Pinhoti is a fantastic sort of test drive.”

While most of the route is on trails through public lands, there are a few sections in Georgia that require some serious road walking.

At the northern terminus, Markel connected with the Benton MacKaye Trail to link up with the Appalachian Trail for a longer hike.

“The Pinhoti includes the southernmost

T H E PA L M E T T O C O N S E R VAT I O N C O R P S A N D V O L U N T E E R S W O R K T O B U I L D T H E B O A R D WA L K O V E R T H E WAT E R E E R I V E R O N T H E PA L M E T T O TRAIL. / PHOTO BY JOHN BALDWIN.

Appalachian Mountain over 1,000 feet,” she said. “So, by starting on the Pinhoti, you can actually walk the entire Appalachian chain if you connect to the A.T.”

BENTON MACKAYE TRAIL GA., TENN., AND N.C.

Named for the original designer of the Appalachian Trail, the Benton MacKaye Trail takes hikers through challenging backcountry. The terrain on the 300-mile trail is similar to the A.T. with strenuous climbs and descents.

“MacKaye’s route was a little different than the way the Appalachian Trail ended up,” said Barry Allen.

“Our route actually follows his vision a little closer.

We crisscross a couple of times, form a figure eight.

In general, we run a much more westerly and remote route than the Appalachian Trail. In some areas, you’ll be lucky to run into one or two people on the route during the entire day you’re hiking.”

Allen, president of the Benton MacKaye Trail Association, coordinates the work that goes in to keeping this trail accessible to the public.

“With any trail association, the public needs to understand that we are maintained almost entirely by volunteer work,” Allen said. “So, if you’re a hiker and you’re not giving back by doing volunteer work, then

we certainly need people to reconsider that. Spend some time helping us maintain the trails.”

FOOTHILLS TRAIL S.C., N.C.

Although only 77 miles, the Foothills Trail winds through some of the best the Carolinas have to offer, connecting Table Rock State Park and Oconee State Park. This trail takes hikers to countless waterfalls, including Whitewater Falls and Laurel Fork Falls, as well as over Sassafras Mountain, the highest point in South Carolina.

The Foothills Trail Conservancy, which coordinates volunteers and maintenance on the trail, offers a shuttle service for thru hikers looking to get from one state park to the other.

Heyward Douglass, executive director of the conservancy, said they get visitors from all over the world who say this is one of the best maintained trails they have ever been on.

“Bridges, waterfalls, vistas, the whole nine yards,” Douglass said. “You’ve kind of taken the Appalachian Trail and shrunk it down into 77 miles."

MOUNTAINS-TO-SEA TRAIL N.C.

As the name implies, the Mountains-to-Sea Trail in North Carolina stretches 1,175 miles from Clingmans Dome to the Outer Banks.

This cross-state trail runs through mountain towns, agricultural centers, and oceanfront public lands. Several sections allow bikes and horses while optional routes give paddlers a taste of the state’s waterways.

Kate Dixon, executive director of Friends of the Mountains-to-Sea Trail, said the number of thru hikers is already increasing, even though the full trail is not complete.

“We had maybe 10 people between 1997 and 2008 who finished,” she said. “Right now, we’re having 16 or 17 people complete in a year. My guess is those numbers are going to keep rising. We reached a tipping point where there is enough trail and camping has gotten easier.”

Towns like Hillsborough and Elkin have embraced their status as a trail community as volunteers and land management agencies work to put the remaining 500 miles on trails.

“We have a couple of communities that have really shown what this trail can mean if a community really gets behind it,” Dixon said. “Town boards see it as a valuable quality of life issue for their citizens, but also there’s an interest in it for economic impacts, just having hikers come through.”

PALMETTO TRAIL S.C.

Before tackling a thru hike of the A.T., Bernie and April Hester wanted to do some hiking locally to prepare. That’s when they learned about the 500mile Palmetto Trail that runs across South Carolina.

“We had never done any kind of long-distance hiking, we were figuring our way out,” Bernie Hester said. “The trail runs through national forests, 40

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019

VIEW FROM EAGLE ROCK ON THE TUSCARORA TRAIL.

small towns, big cities. The first time we did it, we kept coming across people who asked, ‘Why are you doing this?’ We didn’t know, it just seemed interesting.”

The second time they thru hiked, the couple set out with a more concrete goal, raising money and awareness for the Multiple Sclerosis Society in support of April Hester, who was diagnosed with MS when she was 20.

Broken up into passageways of varying difficulties, the goal of the Palmetto Trail is to improve quality of life through conservation and human powered recreation. The Hesters have taken full advantage of the trail, having attempted three thru hikes on a trail that most users do in sections.

The annual Palmetto Challenge encourages teams of hikers and bikers to log as many miles on the state’s trails in an 8-week period. Furry friends count as team members.

GREAT EASTERN TRAIL A L A . T O N .Y. To the west of the A.T., a group of dedicated trail clubs are slowly closing the gap on another longdistance trail along the East Coast. At around 1,800 miles, the Great Eastern Trail is made up of a series of existing trails that are being linked together, including parts of the Pinhoti, Cumberland, and

Tuscarora Trails.

Tom Johnson, president of the Great Eastern Trail Association, estimates that 75 percent of the route is now on a trail. Much like the A.T., a majority of the work is being done by volunteers coordinated through 11 trail clubs from Alabama to New York.

“Everything is very decentralized, and all the individual clubs are responsible for their own geographic area,” Johnson said. “If there is a connection issue, they’re responsible for working with the trail club immediately north or south to close the gap.”

Within the last few years, a huge effort has gone into closing the trails between the Finger Lakes in New York and Pennsylvania, as well as connecting the trail through Tennessee.

In areas where road walking is needed to connect parts of the trail, volunteers are working to acquire the land needed to get the whole route off road.

“Southwestern West Virginia and far eastern Kentucky down to Breaks Interstate Park is really the hole in the donut,” Johnson said. “The area that we go through is the coal mining area. All those lands that are not in the towns are pretty much owned by coal companies.”

Completion of the project will depend on public support through donations, trail construction, and local government.

Birding Is Badass

THE UNSUNG ADVENTURE OF BIRDWATCHING IN THE BLUE RIDGE

BY NOAH POULOS PHOTO BY SAM ROBINSON

I

t is a foggy morning in the mountains, and as I hike observed bald eagles taking care of their young while through a thicket of Fraser fir, there are glimpses on a run in northern Montana. All it takes to start of the winged creatures I’ve come here looking for. birding is a sense of curiosity and keen observation.

The sun rises below me in a pink sea of clouds, and Don’t be intimidated by memorizing species or as I take in this moment I realize that I would not be songs. Let the accumulation of observations during here if I weren’t in search of birds. your adventures guide your knowledge of these I’m here to view the migration of large predatory amazing creatures. birds, collectively known as raptors. Each spring Wherever we go in the outdoors birds are and autumn, millions of birds migrate through the present. They disperse seeds, eat insects, and even South, searching for northern breeding grounds in pollinate plants. In Southern Appalachia, the Northern the summer and equatorial abundance saw-whet owl, usually only seen year-round in the I L L U S T R AT I O N

BY LYRIC ANTIO in the winter. Raptors gather in massive northern reaches of the continent, can flocks known as kettles be found in high elevation spruce-fir during migration. So, here forests on Mount Mitchell and Roan on top of this mountain, Mountain. Camping at night on the after the sun has fully risen, I peaks of our 6,000-foot mountains, look over the valley below to hikers often hear the distinctive “toosee over a thousand broad-winged too-too” whistle of this tiny owl just hawks soaring on thermal air currents. before it swoops down to snag its prey.

I am immersed in the astonishing sight of The cerulean warbler, a beautiful sky-blue this grand gathering of mighty predators. songbird, only breeds in small pockets through Birders are as diverse as the birds they seek. the South. Flitting through the canopy on the While birding has traditionally been associated rugged slopes of the Blue Ridge, cerulean with older crowds, a broader audience is now warblers make their homes in oaks, maples, captivated by the world of birds. Many mountain and magnolias in openings in the forest. bikers, climbers, paddlers, and runners include Along steep trails on north-facing slopes, birding in their outdoor expeditions. these magnificent uncommon birds can be seen—or For myself, the moment that I started noticing heard—during a hike, bike, or run. birds happened while whitewater rafting the Rio Cerulean warblers have seen a 72% decline since Pacuare in Costa Rica. A flock of 30 keel-billed 1970 due to habitat loss in both North and South toucans flew overhead and found perches along the America. The Northern saw-whet owl is a species of rock faces of the river gorge. Since then, I’ve seen conservation concern in North Carolina, as its range anhingas spear fish while canoeing the Everglades, is restricted to only the highest peaks in the state. watched American dippers plunge into the frigid Since both of these species have unique and specific waters of the Grand Tetons while backpacking, and habitat requirements in the region, it is all the more

important to protect our public lands, as we are not the only beings relying on them. Birds are all around us, and many rely on the places in our national forests and parks that we too cherish. Supporting the work of local Audubon Societies and conservation groups can help save the places that birds and humans share with one another.

One of the best parts of birding is that it naturally attunes us to the seasons. The migrating raptors signal autumn’s arrival. Then the winter waterfowl— blue-winged teals, canvasbacks, and hooded mergansers —will cover the surfaces of our southern lakes and ponds. And before long, the squeakywheel call of the first black-and-white warbler will announce the arrival of spring.

Birding is an exciting, stimulating way to explore the outdoors and bring us even closer to our favorite places. By exploring the natural world—whether it be by foot, bike, paddle, rope, or binocular—the places we love are made even more magical by the presence of our winged companions.

For the Birds Want to help protect the places where we play— and the places that birds depend on? These organizations are working to protect public lands and bird habitat across Southern Appalachia: Audubon NC: nc.audubon.org IHeartPisgah: iheartpisgah.org MountainTrue: mountaintrue.org Blue Ridge Conservation Alliance: blueridgeconservation.org Southern Environmental Law Center: southernenvironment.org MARCH 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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A Path Forward From Industry to Recreation: Turning Rails into Trails

S T R O L L I N G T H E E A S T C O A S T G R E E N WAY I N PHILADELPHIA. PHOTO BY STEVEN WEINIK/EAST C O A S T G R E E N WAY A L L I A N C E

BY ELLEN KANZINGER

BORN AND RAISED IN SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA, EVA Beaule’s family depended on tobacco agriculture for income. Washington County was one of the country’s largest producers of burley tobacco leaves and, at that time, a rail line linking Mendota and Bristol, Va., carried products in and out of the county.

“I remember very well when the train was there, and the community was built somewhat around that train and the commerce it brought in,” Beaule said. “I am a complete advocate for a tobacco free lifestyle. But, at the same time, I acknowledge what it meant to my community and my family.”

Beaule eventually moved to another part of the state and, like many smaller towns, the train and tobacco left the area, taking a large part of the local economy with it.

Now Beaule has returned to her hometown and is part of a growing effort to convert that abandoned Virginia & Southwestern Railroad line into the Mendota Trail, a 12.5 miles multi-use recreational trail.

“It’s fun to meet people on the trail and it brings people together,” she said. “But in the case of the Mendota, I also see it as a potential economic catalyst for what is fast becoming a lost community.”

The rail-trails movement began in the Midwest as railroad companies consolidated and closed irrelevant lines. Communities were left with abandoned rails running through town.

Construction of the first rail-trail began in 1965 on the 32.5-mile Elroy-Sparta State Trail in Wisconsin.

According to the Rails to Trails Conservancy, there are now more than 2,000 rails-trails around the country, covering almost 23,700 miles.

The Virginia Creeper Trail, a popular trail located about 45 minutes from Mendota, sees upwards of 250,000 visitors every year.

An economic impact study done by Key-Log Economics estimates that 50,000 visitors to the Mendota Trail would add $655,700 to the local economy and create 11 jobs.

Bristol already has the amenities like hotels and breweries in place and draws crowds for various events like the Rhythm and Roots Reunion and race weekend.

Volunteers hope the trail will help draw visitors yearround.

Beaule owns Adventure Mendota, a kayaking outfitter operating on the North Fork of the Holston River. After a day on the water, Beaule said visitors often ask what other outdoor recreation opportunities are available in the area.

She tells them to be patient. Something is in the works.

“There’s no wavering in my thought process,” she said. “I’m convinced that it will be the best thing in my lifetime that I will see to be an economic catalyst. People see that trails are safe, they’re economic drivers, and they bring people to the area who are good stewards of

the land.”

This is not the first time the citizens of Washington County have tried to convert the abandoned line into a new source of revenue. Several attempts to turn the rail line into an excursion train or a recreational trail failed for various reasons.

The current project began in 2016 when the city of Bristol deeded the property to the nonprofit Mountain Heritage, Inc. Volunteers quickly began clearing the trail, opening the first mile at the northern end in 2017. Another four to five miles on the southern end are expected to be completed in 2019.

“This has been a dream for many people in this county for years, going back to when the railroad ceased operations in the early 80s,” said Bob Mueller, another trail volunteer working on grant applications and funding.

In addition to getting all of the right permits and meeting government regulations, one of the most challenging parts will be raising the funds to refurbish the 17 trestle bridges along the route. So far, one 67-foot trestle has been completed. At 600 dollars per foot, volunteers had to raise $40,200 for a single bridge through donations, sponsorships, and grants.

“We certainly have the interest, the energy, but like so many things, the bottom line is you have to pay your bills to continue to get things done that need to get done,” he said. “We made so much progress in the last two years. It’s helpful to remind yourself of that occasionally to retain your energy and enthusiasm.”

Paving the Way

When a stretch of CSX line used to carry coal, sand, limestone, and other products out of West Virginia was abandoned in 1990, a group of grassroot volunteers came together to form the Mon River Trail Conservancy. The goal of the non-profit was to acquire property across several counties and to convert the 48 miles of rail line into a recreational trail.

This was early on in rail-trails history on the East Coast and many locals and businesses were skeptical about the impact the trail could have on the community.

“It was somewhat of a challenge to convince people that it would be used and popular,” said Ella Belling, director of the conservancy. “With less than a mile of trail being built, people were walking up and down it. It saw immediate use. It didn’t take us long to show that people wanted it.”

Construction started in 1997 with the final mile completed in 2008. The trail begins at the West Virginia and Pennsylvania border, running along the Monongahela River. After passing through Morgantown, the trail splits in two directions. Visitors can choose to continue southwest along the river to Marion County or head southeast to Preston County.

Like most rail-trails, the Mon River Trail is railbanked. This agreement between the railroad companies and trail agencies allows the land to be used as a recreational trail until a point the railroad may want to reestablish a line along that corridor. Under the 1983 National Trails System Act, ownership of the land transfers to the trail groups

rather than reverting to adjacent land owners.

In Morgantown, what was once an industrial wasteland has been revitalized into prime riverfront property.

“Businesses that existed for a long time along that corridor added on back porches or added back doors or started advertising to their backside,” Belling said.

Heather Cleary owns Morgantown Running, located right off the Caperton section of the trail.

On Monday nights, the store hosts group runs for all skill levels on the trail and several race events using sections of the trail.

“We’ve looked at other locations, but we want to be on the trail,” Cleary said.

A study done by West Virginia University found that trail users contribute more than $6 million annually to the region the trail runs through.

Even though the trail is complete, Belling said people often forget about the continued cost to maintain the trails once they are opened.

“Maintaining is not glamorous but it’s necessary,” she said. “We get hundreds of trees that block the trail every year, and that alone would end a trail if it didn’t have people out helping to keep it open and clean.”

Funding for maintenance comes from a variety of sources, from federal and regional grants to fundraising. In 2016, Monongalia County passed a five-year levy to support routine projects along the trail system.

“2018 was an extreme year of rain and storms,” Belling said. “We had a lot of landslides and washouts. It’s been pretty costly to keep the trails open and safe and welcoming. And so we constantly need support.”

The conservancy is also part of a larger network of trails and organizations working to connect more communities through these trail systems. As a part of the Parkersburg to Pittsburgh route and the Industrial Heartland Trails Coalition, the Mon River Trail will one day be a part of more than 1,500 miles of connected rails-trails in West Virginia, Pennsylvania, Ohio, and New York.

“The longer your trail system becomes, the more

T H E R E N O VAT E D T I N D A L L T R E S T L E O N T H E M E N D O TA T R A I L . / P H O T O

BY ELLEN MUELLER

it becomes a tourist destination,” Belling said.

After the success of longer distance trails like the Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Canal Towpath, more communities are thinking about ways to leverage their trails as destinations for outdoor enthusiasts looking for a multi-day adventure and economic drivers for the towns along the path.

A Community Effort

Like any infrastructure project, a number of factors influence how quickly a rail-trail project comes together. From acquiring the property and correct permits to raising the funds and community support, it can be a long and costly process.

When members of the Tweetsie Trail Task Force began making plans for a rail-trail connecting Johnson City and Elizabethton, Tenn., they decided to turn down two major sources of funding to finish the project as quickly as possible.

“We knew if we took the state and federal funding, we would never get the project done,” said Dan Schumaier, chairman of the task force.

Instead, they raised the funds themselves through solicited donations and local government funds. Companies contributed bricks, signs, and other materials. Individuals and organizations donated funds for the naming rights to bridges, benches, and pavilions.

A study commissioned by the task force estimated construction of the entire 10-mile trail would cost around $6 million.

Rather than contracting the work out, the Johnson City Public Works Department did all of the construction on the trail except for two bridges that crossed major four lane roads. The entire project was completed in 2016, three years after construction began for a third of the estimated price.

Schumaier, an audiologist in town, said the citizens who were not as excited about the trail running through their backyards eventually became some of the project’s biggest supporters.

MARCH 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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“A lot of people didn’t think it was going to happen,” he said. “Once it started to become a reality, the community really jumped behind this project. When communities get together, the potential they can unleash is really amazing. That’s what we did.”

The popularity of the trail was almost instantaneous. Phil Pindzola, the director of public works, said the trail averages around 1,000 visitors a day with an event almost every weekend. Both downtowns have seen a revitalization as the cities try to attract new businesses and people to the area.

A Trek Bicycle store opened in Johnson City due in part to the construction of the trail. Pindzola said sales are up more than 100 percent at the Trek store for the third year in a row. Local Motion, a full-service bike shop, opened at the trailhead on the Johnson City end in 2017. The shop offers bike rentals and repairs, as well as ice cream after a long ride.

“We’re trying to figure out how to grow,” Pindzola said. “If you enhance the quality of life in the community, then people may be more likely to want to be a part of the community. When we built the Tweetsie Trail, what was immediately recognized was the value that trail had towards the quality of life.”

After the success of the Tweetsie, Johnson City is looking at creating a major trail system through the city, connecting the Tweetsie to other smaller trails and public parks. Tannery Knob, a mountain bike park, is set to open soon.

Connecting the East Coast

It’s an ambitious project to connect the entire East Coast, from Key West, Fla. to the Maine-Canada border, on one continuous greenway.

Dennis Markatos-Soriano, the executive director of the East Coast Greenway Alliance, said the goal is to create a place “where people can enjoy low cost transportation, lower costs in health care, and just have fun outside.”

The project will give communities access to local trails as well as the opportunity to take on bigger adventures, traveling to far-away cities through human powered transportation.

A study done by Rutgers Professor John Pucher found that cities like Charlotte, Atlanta, and Richmond have seen the number of bicycle commuters more than double from 2000 to 2015.

Markatos-Soriano said he feels a sense of urgency to complete the trail, setting what he calls an “audacious goal” for 2030.

“From the obesity epidemic to climate change, it’s really important for us to have tangible projects and infrastructure that help people live the healthy and sustainable lifestyle that they want to,” he said.

Plans for the greenway have been underway since the early 90s when leaders of local greenway projects in major cities like Boston, New York, and D.C. came together to develop a connecting trail similar to the Appalachian Trail. Cities along the A.T. have experienced an economic revitalization as hikers pass through, stopping to refuel and enjoy a warm meal.

The greenway could have a similar affect, although it is designed to be an urban trail connecting more than 450 communities across 3,000-plus miles.

In some states, especially in the north, miles and miles of greenways and trails have already been built. Other states have some catching up to do.

By the end of 2018, more than 1,000 miles of trail built in patches up and down the East Coast are on protected greenways. Many of those miles come from abandoned rail lines turned into trails. The remaining two thirds of the trail are currently on right of ways on the side of roads.

Although it is possible to bike or walk the entire East Coast Greenway route as it is right now, the goal is to eventually move the entire trail off road.

“When you’re on the greenway, you’re not separated from other people by your windshield,” Markatos-Soriano said. “You’re encountering people and you’re developing relationships with people.”

The most challenging part for the alliance and supporters of the greenway will be to keep the enthusiasm going as funds are continuously needed to acquire land and connect existing trails.

As the greenway becomes more well-known and communities see the benefits this kind of trail network could bring, more people will be able to take advantage of the project.

The Triangle area of North Carolina is home to the longest stretch of completed greenway with almost 70 miles of linked trails. A study of the impacts of greenways in the Triangle by Alta Planning + Design estimates that the region gains more that $90 million in health, environmental, transportation, property, and economic benefits from the trails every year.

Although the majority of the East Coast Greenway is still on the road, almost 30 bikers and hikers have completed the entire route.

Lisa Watts, the communications manager for the alliance, took two months off work in the summer of 2018 to bike the entire route with a friend.

“I grew up in Atlanta, Baltimore, and Boston and always had this kind of notion of riding my bike at some point, connecting all of those dots,” she said.

“It’s been on my bucket list since I was 25.”

It took the pair 57 days to ride up the entire coast, averaging between 60 to 70 miles a day.

Every day was an adventure and the realization of a lifelong dream as the friends navigated the trail.

“When you do end up riding a couple of miles on a greenway, it’s such a treat,” Watts said. “You’ve been managing traffic and noise on a busy road.

Then you turn and you can ride side by side, talk to each other, and not constantly be worried about what’s coming up behind you.”

For Watts, the south-to-north cross-country trip appealed to her more than an East-to-West Coast trip because there would be shorter stretches riding through unpopulated areas, and they would not have to cross the Rocky Mountains.

Along the way, they stayed with family and friends. Strangers, many of whom had never heard of the project, provided bottles of water on hot summer days and showed an interest in one day undertaking a similar journey of their own.

“People are so kind,” Watts said. “A woman offered us her house in Georgia when we were planning to go to a motel. A host helped me change my tire. People gave directions and they’re always interested in what you’re doing. It just reinforces what we’re doing and why we’re doing it.”

Before planning your next rails to trails adventure, make sure to research what activities are allowed on the route and the difficulty. The Rails to Trails Conservancy’s website offers detailed maps and history of each trail.

The Great Allegheny Passage Pennsylvania to Maryland

At 150-miles long, the passage is the longest railtrail east of the Mississippi River. Connect with the C&O Towpath, another 184 miles, to continue your journey to Washington, D.C.

Swamp Rabbit Trail Greenville, S.C.

Stop by one of the multiple stores and restaurants along the 22-mile trail to rent a bike for the day or to grab a bite to eat.

Mammoth Cave Railroad Bike & Hike Trail Mammoth Cave, Ky.

Walk or bike this nine-mile trail into Mammoth Cave National Park, home to the world’s longest cave. Over 390 miles of passageways have been discovered with many more yet to be explored.

Atlanta BeltLine Atlanta, Ga.

Once completed, this 22-mile loop around the city of Atlanta will connect more than 45 neighborhoods, providing a place for more sustainable transportation and outdoor recreation.

Washington and Old Dominion Railroad Regional Park Virginia

Whether for recreation or transportation, the 45-mile W&OD trail offers easy access through Northern Virginia to the Potomac River.

Pine Creek Trail Pennsylvania

Horseback ride, mountain bike, cross country ski, or fish. There is something for everyone on this 62-mile trail that travels through the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon.

American Tobacco Trail North Carolina

Traverse 22 miles of pristine wildlife and bustling cities on this once important line. This trail is part of a larger network of greenways in the Triangle area, making up the longest continuous stretch of the East Coast Greenway off road.

Silver Comet Trail Georgia

Take this 61 miles to the Alabama border where it connects with the Chief Ladiga Trail for an additional 33-mile journey.

Jackson River Scenic Trail Alleghany County, VA

In the heart of Western Virginia, just north of Covington, this scenic crushed gravel trail follows the former Hot Springs Branch of the C&O Railway all the way to the Bath County line for 14.3 miles.

Heart of Darkness PADDLING INTO THE ALLIGATORINFESTED OKEFENOKEE—THE WILDEST SPOT IN THE EAST

BY BRENT MARTIN

P

addling through darkness in the largest swamp in North America has never been on my bucket list, nor has being lost in such a place, so I paddle harder and urge on my wife Angela as we approach dusk on the ten-mile trip to Floyd’s Island, where a primitive cabin and dry land await. It’s January, and darkness here at the darkest place in the eastern US is going to be, well, dark. That’s part of the attraction of the place. I had not considered that high water would make the trip more difficult, as I had not considered high water at all, but here we are, pushing through a narrow canoe trail with our heads and paddles tangling with overhanging branches and darkness coming on. "We have to be close!" I tell Angela, who of course has been on enough trips with me to never believe such a statement. She makes no comment, as she might ordinarily, and likely senses my anxiety. This is a digital detox, so we have nothing but our Nat Geo map and our arms to carry us on.

After another half hour, the trail comes to an abrupt dead end on terra firma – the solid reliable earth of Floyd’s Island, where hundreds of loggers once stayed during the early twentieth century harvesting the old growth cypress and pines, shipping them out on the numerous rail lines which by then crisscrossed the swamp. It feels good, standing on solid ground after almost seven hours in a boat, but we’re wet, and the temperature is dropping, so we quickly unpack the boats and head towards the cabin. I’ve got fire starter, and some kind soul has left a neat stack of dry firewood, so we soon have a raging fire that we stand before, basking as we dry our socks and clothing. But for the crackling of the wood and a half dozen barred owls sounding off in the blackness, there is utter stillness and silence.

It’s hard not to imagine ghosts in such a place, and the numerous journal entries in the cabin’s notebook often reinforce this. We lie in the dark on a cold floor with the fire crackling and mice racing around the cabin’s drafty edges. Angela’s mother passed away a few months before this trip. The emptiness of the place breaks her apart and she weeps deeply for the first time since her passing.

Owls, coyotes, mice, bobcats, and whatever else there is out there rustling in the woods becomes the backdrop to our dreams.

The swamp has a storied history. Seminoles and other Native Americans lived in the swamp for centuries. In 1837, Georgia militia leader Charles Rinaldo Floyd burned the last Seminole village here 46

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019

in the Okefenokee to the ground. From this point on, the swamp was logged extensively, and the expansive longleaf pine forest in and around it were reduced to stumps. In 1900 the Georgia Legislature sold the 700-square-mile wetland to the Suwanee Canal Company, which tried to drain the swamp before abandoning the idea after years of failed attempts.

Franklin D. Roosevelt declared the Okefenokee a National Wildlife Refuge in 1937, but industrial America did not abandon its efforts to exploit the area. In the mid-1990s, DuPont Corporation attempted to mine titanium in almost 40,000 acres adjacent to the swamp. Conservationists resisted the attempt mightily, and as opposition grew, DuPont walked away from the project, accepting a $90 million-dollar buyout. The swamp was protected, and local governments got a chunk of the money to offset the lost tax revenue.

The next morning near the canoe launch, Angela almost steps on a small copperhead coiled up in the cold. Its colors are spectacular, and we study it for several minutes before paddling into the glassy black waters of the Suwanee river’s west fork. Recent heavy rains have washed tons of logs into the water. At the water-lily-choked expanse of Chase Prairie, we lose the trail, but have plenty of daylight left to wander. The abundant ibises, herons, wood storks, and egrets are indifferent, and I cannot help but admire this. We at last find a solitary marker and paddle on toward the canal through the stunning beauty of moss-laden bald cypress and late afternoon sunlight that splashes across the

hammocks.

When we reach the shelter at Canal Run, it's another evening of a warm fire and vast solitude.

We have not seen another person in two days and consider ourselves king and queen of the universe under this brilliant starlit sky.

We are now on the east fork of the Suwanee, made famous by the American composer Stephen Foster, who never saw the river once in his entire life. The river is slow here, but there is a current, and paddling is much easier the next day. We relax on this eight-mile day and enjoy the sunshine – and so do the swamp’s most iconic resident, alligators. We see four that afternoon. One gator is ten feet long and so lifeless on this winter morning as it basks that it could be a statue.

We take our time paddling, enjoying the sunning gators and the hundreds of turkey vultures that are parked in the cypresses along the Suwanee’s main stem.

During our three days in the swamp, we saw only two fishermen at Billy’s Island, who arrived in a motorboat as we lunched on the island’s small dock.

A large percentage of the swamp was federally designated as a Wilderness area in 1974, meaning no motors or mechanized equipment, but in the acreage at Stephen Foster State Park, motorboats are allowed and can be rented at the park, as well as canoes and kayaks. But that’s it. We see no one else. The Okefenokee is the wildest spot in the East, the darkest spot on the map, and certainly one of the best places in the country for solitude and a sky full of stars.

the Rivers we love

BY DAN DEWITT H A R P E R C R E E K FA L L S / P H O T O B Y A N D Y K U N K L E

THANKS TO COLLABORATION FROM A VARIETY OF GROUPS, NORTH CAROLINA MAY DOUBLE THE NUMBER OF WILD AND SCENIC RIVERS THIS YEAR

h

ere’s a sign of just how loaded North Carolina is with spectacular, free-flowing mountain creeks: a gem like the North Fork of the French Broad River is not even that famous.

After heavy rains, it morphs from an idyllic trout stream into an “ultra-classic, super-fun” kayaking river, said J.E.B. Hall, a professional fishing guide and avid paddler. Plunging as much as 145 feet per mile through a gorge in Pisgah National Forest near Rosman N.C., the North Fork carries paddlers through both boulder gardens and chutes of solid bedrock. It features major drops such as Boxcar Falls that to average folks seem a lot better suited for viewing than running in a kayak. And if all this isn’t enough to qualify as a star attraction, the North Fork is flat-out beautiful, Hall said, with riverside cliffs looming behind bare branches in the winter and banks blanketed with wildflowers in the spring.

“It’s just really pretty down there,” he said.

Other hikers, anglers, and paddlers get similarly effusive when talking about nearby streams in the Nantahala and Pisgah National Forests, including Tanasee Creek, the relatively calm waters of which flow through a dramatic, V-shaped canyon, and Panthertown Creek, famous for its sandy beach-like banks and distinctive, tannin-rich water.

In fact, Kevin Colburn, national stewardship director of the paddling advocacy group American Whitewater, has compiled a list of ten additional

streams (included below) that he thinks should be tagged as eligible for federal designation as Wild and Scenic Rivers in the next version of the PisgahNantahala National Forest Plan. The current plan, in place since 1994, lists ten eligible rivers, and the U.S. Forest Service already intends to include ten more such streams in the new document.

“Doubling the number of eligible streams is a really good outcome, and we appreciate it,” Colburn said.

The final draft of the Pisgah-Nantahala Forest Plan is due to be released later this summer. So the time is right for the public to push for more of them to be protected by the eligible listing, Colburn said.

Congress passed the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act in 1968 to single out streams worthy of protection, especially from large hydroelectric dams. To qualify, rivers must not only be free-flowing, but, the law says, “possess outstandingly remarkable scenic, recreational, geologic, fish and wildlife, historic, cultural or other similar values.”

That’s where the public comes in, Colburn said. Enthusiastic users of these rivers, including paddlers, anglers, and hikers, might have a deeper knowledge of “outstandingly remarkable” attributes that the agency’s rangers and land planners.

“You can’t expect the Forest Service to know everything about every river,” Colburn said.

Veteran hiker Brenda Wiley of Brevard, N.C., may have a unique appreciation for Tanasee based on her multiple trips up the stream, a few miles northwest of the North Fork. The water is tame enough for creek-walking and offers views of landmark cascades such as Horseshoe Falls on tributaries dropping from canyon walls. The cliff at Horseshoe is not just sheer, “but the rock is gouged

out well behind the waterfall and you have this free fall of a stream, and that’s just not typical at all,” Wiley said. “The geology there blows me away.”

Harper and North Harper creeks, another stream network on entry on Colburn’s list, flow through a Wilderness Study Area. Because much of the surrounding land south of Blowing Rock, N.C., has not been logged for about a century, it supports unusually magnificent forest, said Andy Kunkle, of Charlotte, who has led hiking trips in the area. One of the many view-worthy waterfalls on these streams is the confusingly named South Harper Creek Falls, which is actually on plain old Harper Creek. With a short bushwhack to the falls, he said, “you’re in a horseshoe-shaped canyon and you’re almost completely surrounded by cliffs.”

Ironically, Western North Carolina’s abundance of pretty, recreation-friendly mountain streams—the aspect that Colburn argues should work in favor of more listings—may actually work against it. It’s hard for any one of these creeks or rivers to stand out.

The Forest Service, for example, devoted three pages of its report to analyzing the North Fork of the French Broad. It acknowledges its popularity with paddlers in high water. But it also states that “challenging whitewater runs can also be found across other creeks and rivers throughout the region of comparison, including the Tellico and Ocoee Rivers in Tennessee and Wilson Creek and the Chattooga River in North Carolina.”

The report’s authors seemed similarly unimpressed with the river’s scenery. They described it as “typical for the Southern Appalachian Physiographic Province” and pointed out that the gorge is neither as deep nor as spectacular as the Linville Gorge in a tract of Pisgah east of Asheville.

MARCH 2019 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

47

There is, on the other hand, one powerful factor working in favor of Colburn’s cause: everyone supports it.

Designating a stream as eligible broadens the required buffer around it to a quarter mile. It restricts, but doesn’t prohibit, activities such as logging and prescribed burns within this buffer, and requires that the entire basin be managed in a way that maintains the stream’s “remarkably outstanding” qualities. Finally, it forbids altering the free-flowing nature of rivers that is the baseline prerequisite for either eligibility status or permanent designation as a Wild and Scenic River.

Wild and Scenic River eligibility status and the restrictions it carries are not necessarily permanent.

That ultimately requires an act of Congress. And none of these restrictions apply to private land outside of national forests.

That may be bad for advocates of firm stream protection, but it’s good for blunting opposition of industry and private landowners. Alfred Owen owns Morgan Mill Trout Farm on Morgan Mill Creek.

Though it doesn’t flow into the North Fork, it is nearby and trout farms are already subject to a host of regulations, meaning he might be expected to be wary of any new ones. But no, Owen said, he’d be fine with eligibility designation for the North Fork.

His only concern, he said, is that the paddlers drawn by such designation would overwhelm the pull-off points that provide access and parking.

“You already see their cars sticking out in the road during heavy rains,” Owen said. “The more it rains, the more of them show up.”

48

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019

WNC ELIGIBLE WILD & SCENIC STREAMS UNDER CONSIDERATION USFS Currently Eligible Streams:

USFS Draft New Eligible Streams

Strong Candidates as Additional Eligible Streams

• French Broad

• South Toe

• Rock Creek-Toe Tributary

• Big Laurel

• West Fork Pigeon

• Lost Cove Creek

• Nolichucky

• Flat Laurel

• Harper & North Harper

• Linville

• Thompson

• Gragg Prong

• North & South Mills

• East Fork Tuck

• North Fork French Broad

• Snowbird

• Cullsaja

• Panthertown Creek

• Big East Fork

• Whitewater

• Greenland Creek

• Davidson

• Overflow

• Tanassee Creek

• Nantahala

• Santeetlah

• East Fork Overflow

• Tellico

• Fires Creek

• West Fork Overflow

A few miles downstream, David Whitmire staffed the taproom at Headwater Outfitters, a livery and guiding service he owns at the mouth of the North Fork. He supports listing the river as eligible. His business depends on the stream’s water quality and scenery.

But Whitmire is also the chair of the Fish and Wildlife Conservation Council, which supports expanded logging and hunting in the new plan, a position that sometimes puts him at odds with environmental organizations. On the matter of eligibility for the North Fork, however, he is right

with them, and not just for business reasons.

Though the river, by virtue of passing through national forest land, is apparently protected now, he thought the same thing in the 1980s, when he joined the successful effort to stop a proposed dam on the North Fork. He’s an outdoors person who appreciates the excellent fishing and paddling on the river as much as anyone.

“It’s already a very protected resource and we’d like to see that locked in,” he said of the designation.

“I just don’t see any downside.”

Osprey Mira 32 L with Hydraulics 2.5 L

GEAR CHECK | HIKING HYDRATION

Reliable (Re)Source Water is fluid, but getting a handle on better ways

has integrated into all of its flexible bottles and

to haul it while hiking is the type of trailworthy

reservoirs. To save cubic space this material also

innovation that fires up our inner gear nerd. We’ve

collapses to minimal volume for easier packing

seen hundreds of bottles, backpacks, bladders and

when empty—a huge benefit when repacking an

even buckets over the years—but what is really

overstuffed pack. And, for even more space-saving

making a difference in our trail packs boils down

convenience, many of their bottles’ caps can be

improvements in durability and compressibility.

swapped with the Katadyn BeFree filter that turns

The big change in the former is lightweight, durable

lakes and streams into safe, drinkable backcountry

TPU—the outer coating on bombproof base

water sources.

camp duffels—that hydration leader HydraPak

Katadyn BeFree Water Filter fits all Seeker models Plug-N-Play Cap Kit fits all Seeker models

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TRAIL MIX

SPRING SOUNDS

SONIC BLOOM: 5 ACTS TO CATCH IN THE BLUE RIDGE THIS SPRING

BY JEDD FERRIS

EMERGE FROM THE SEASON OF HIBERNATION AND check out these bands bringing fresh sounds to the South.

BLACKBERRY SMOKE

SHOWS: MARCH 14-15 AT THE OPERA HOUSE IN LEXINGTON, KY., AND MARCH 28-30 AT THE HARVESTER PERFORMANCE CENTER IN ROCKY MOUNT, VA.

Southern rock torchbearers Blackberry Smoke will tone down the distortion this spring on the Break It Down Tour, an acoustic trek based on the band’s fall-released The Southern Ground Sessions. The short, five-song EP features the Atlanta-based band playing stripped-down versions of songs from their latest full-length, Find A Light, as well as a cover of Tom Petty’s “You Got Lucky” that features an appearance by singer-songwriter/ fiddler Amanda Shires.

THE INFAMOUS STRINGDUSTERS

SHOWS: MARCH 28 AT HEADLINERS MUSIC HALL IN LOUISVILLE, KY., APRIL 2 AT THE SIGNAL IN CHATTANOOGA, TENN., APRIL 4 AT THE HAW RIVER BALLROOM IN SAXAPAHAW, N.C., AND APRIL 6 AT THE NATIONAL IN RICHMOND, VA.

If you’re in need of a good dose of optimism, look to Rise Sun, the forthcoming release from this longstanding expansive bluegrass crew.

With a message calling for unity, the early-released title track charges forward with positive momentum, led by a sing-along chorus, handclaps, and driving banjo rolls. “Rise Sun was sparked by the feeling of wanting something better for the world—more love, more awareness, and more compassion,” said dobro player Andy Hall, about the record that comes out on April 5. “It’s a message of taking care of each other, our planet, and our selves. Sometimes a message of hope is less popular than one of despair, but it’s much-needed nevertheless.”

WILLIAM TYLER

SHOWS: MARCH 3 AT THE MOTHLIGHT IN ASHEVILLE, N.C., MARCH 5 AT THE SOUTHERN CAFÉ AND MUSIC HALL IN CHARLOTTESVILLE,

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | MARCH 2019

VA., AND MARCH 7 AT EDDIE’S ATTIC IN DECATUR, GA.

Back in January, Tyler released Goes West, his latest set of instrumental guitar tunes that evoke images of wide-open spaces and pastoral landscapes with nary a word. Unlike his equally inspiring 2016 effort Modern Country, Tyler, who’s played with Lambchop and the Silver Jews, uses only an acoustic guitar on his newest—a record inspired by his move from Nashville to Los Angeles.

JOY WILLIAMS

SHOWS: APRIL 27 AT THE MIRACLE THEATRE IN WASHINGTON, D.C., APRIL 28 AT THE SOUTHERN CAFÉ AND MUSIC HALL IN CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA., AND APRIL 29 AT THE ARTSCENTER – CAT’S CRADLE IN CARRBORO, N.C.

Williams' forthcoming solo album Front Porch, which will be released on May 3, was made while Williams was pregnant with her second child, and accordingly her lyrics are personal and reflective. The already-released title track features an airy acoustic arrangement, giving the spotlight to Williams’ powerful vocals as she sings about the familiar comforts of home. “There is an energy that is very creative in having a baby,” Williams said in a statement previewing the album. “Everything you are feeling is elevated. And you have a time-stamped sense of urgency.”

KURT VILE AND THE VIOLATORS

SHOWS: MARCH 16 AT THE RYMAN AUDITORIUM IN NASHVILLE, TENN., AND MARCH 17 AT THE NATIONAL IN RICHMOND, VA.

Kurt Vile’s latest album Bottle It In is his most engaging set of trippy, guitar-led indie folk-rock tunes.

Vile’s languid drawl and humorous wordplay offer a comforting way to look at life’s absurdities. He’s also a killer guitarist, so he and his steadfast band the Violators should go deep on album tracks like the 10-minute “Bassackwards,” which features a sprawling, trance-inducing groove.

Don’t take the same old journey.

Be somewhere genuine.

Be somewhere amazing.

Be changed.

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800.828.4244

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When the fish of a lifetime presents herself, the difference in success or failure is measured in inches.

To the angler faced with a cast that will forever inspire or haunt them, it’s the eye of a needle.

At that moment, only one thing matters.

HELIOS 3—ERASE THE DOUBT

ALPHARETTA, GA ALPHARETTA, GA ARLINGTON, VA ARLINGTON, VA ASHEVILLE, NC ASHEVILLE, NC ATLANTA, ATLANTA,GA GA BATONROUGE, ROUGE,LA LA BATON BETHESDA,MD MD BETHESDA, BIRMINGHAM, AL BIRMINGHAM, AL

CHARLOTTE, NC

CHARLOTTE, NC CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA CHARLESTON, SC OPENING 2019 CHARLESTON, SC - OPENING 2019 GREENSBORO,NC NC GREENSBORO, GREENVILLE, GREENVILLE,SC SC HUNTSVILLE, HUNTSVILLE,ALAL

JACKSON, MS

JACKSON, MS LEESBURG, VA LEESBURG, VA LOUISVILLE, LOUISVILLE, KY KY MEMPHIS, MEMPHIS, TN TN MYRTLE BEACH, SC SC MYRTLE BEACH, NASHVILLE, NC TN NASHVILLE,

RALEIGH, NC - 2 LOCATIONS

RALEIGH, NC - 2 LOCATIONS RICHMOND, VA - 2 LOCATIONS RICHMOND, VA - 2 LOCATIONS ROANOKE, VA ROANOKE, VA SANDESTIN, FL SANDESTIN, FL SEVIERVILLE, TN SEVIERVILLE, TN TYSONS CORNER, VA TYSONS CORNER, VA WOODBRIDGE, VA

WOODBRIDGE, VA

70 LOCATIONS LOCATIONSNATIONWIDE NATIONWIDE ORVIS.COM/STORES ORVIS.COM/STORES 70