Blue Ridge Outdoors April 2016 by Summit Publishing

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PARKS ISSUE

Classic Hikes, Hidden Gems, and the Future of America’s Greatest Treasure

SOUTHEAST EXPOSED SEVEN EDGY HIKES

The Mysterious Death of a Smokies Hiker FREE YOUR FEET | SOUTHERN PLAYLIST | WHY WE BASE JUMP

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April 2016 CONTENTS

AIRCONTACT 65+10 & 60+10 SL » Fit, ventilation, and innovation yield a perceived lighter load » Updated with improved features for 2016

FEATURES

photo by WILL MILFORD

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T H E PA R K S I S S U E

29 THE CLASSICS

DEPARTMENTS

8 QUICK HITS

Climber murders mentor • Run for women at Mama’s Day 10K • Stroller half-marathon record

10 FLASHPOINT

Unraveling the mysterious death of Smokies hiker Jenny Bennett

19 THE DIRT

Cutting coal: the South’s climate success story • Free your feet: barefoot running doc walks the talk

58 THE GOODS

An Outward Bound instructor picks backpacking gear built for the long haul

78 TRAIL MIX

Southern playlist: new bluegrass, bar rock, and banjo

Explore 11 must-do hikes in the Southeast’s iconic national parks: the Smokies, Shenandoah, and the Blue Ridge Parkway.

37 THE PARKS LESS TRAVELED The South boasts over 50 national park units—including caves, historic battlefields, and world-class whitewater rivers.

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49 THE NEXT 100

Climate change. Funding shortfalls. Invasive species. How can we protect national parks for another century? Here is what you need to know—and how you can help.

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69 WHY WE JUMP

What inspires BASE jumpers to make the leap—and should they have more places to plunge?

73 SOUTHEAST EXPOSED

Tackle these seven edgy Southern Appalachian summit hikes with panoramic views.

North Carolina Appalachian Trail

License Plate Application The Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) now has a specialty license tag in the state of North Carolina. By getting your tag today, you’ll help the ATC protect and maintain America’s Facts Favorite Long Distance Trail! The ATC will receive $20 annually for each AT plate purchased or renewed. How Much Does It Cost?  $30 Regular Appalachian Trail plate*  $60 Personalized Appalachian Trail plate* You are allowed four (4) spaces for a personalized message. __ __ __ __ 2nd Choice __ __ __ __ 3rd Choice __ __ __ __ 1st Choice

TO ORDER, VISIT APPALACHIANTRAIL.ORG/ATCPLATES Name (as shown on certificate of title): FIRST

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ZIP CODE

HOME PHONE

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JARED KAY / AMP L IF IE D-ME DIA.COM

 You must already have the vehicle registered in North Carolina.  You receive a FREE ATC Membership with the purchase of your NC AT Tag.  *The $30 or $60 annual fee is in addition to regular annual license fees you have already paid.  Personalized tags may be relinquished to someone else, but once a numerical tag expires without renewal, that number can never again be reissued.  If you change your mind, you can go back to a regular license plate at any time. There will not be a refund of unused portion of special fees.  Additional applications can be found online at

All proceeds received from each state will help manage and protect the Trail.

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CONTRIBUTORS

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E D ITO R I N C H I EF

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STEVEN MCBRIDE Alum Cave Bluffs trail to Mount LeConte in the Smokies. Beautiful from the first to the last steps.

WILL HARLAN Roller Coaster Trail, Cumberland Island National Seashore. Hike past gator-filled Lake Whitney and end up behind the dunes of the most beautiful beach in the country. EVANS PRATER North from Newfound Gap in the Smokies on a crisp clear day, with amazing views of Tennessee to my left and North Carolina to my right all day long. TIMO HOLMQUIST Hemphill Bald. Iconic southern Appalachian vistas, the general isolation of the approach, and fantastic rolling ridge hike of the Cataloochee Divide.

JOHN BRYANT BAKER Gotta go with the classic—Appalachian Trail from one side of the Smoky Mountains to the other. JENNIFER PHARR DAVIS The longer the hike the better. The A.T. and Benton MacKaye Trail through the Smokies are both hard to beat.

JOHNNY MOLLOY The elevated boardwalk through the old growth forest, reportedly with the highest canopy on earth, of Congaree National Park. JESS DADDIO Endless Wall Trail in the New River Gorge National River. Towering hemlocks, dramatic views of the gorge, and history to boot. Doesn't get much better than that.

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WONDER WILD, WONDERFUL WEST VIRGINIA

YOU’LL FIND IT HERE. You know how they say it’s not the destination, its the journey? Sometimes, its both.

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SHORTS

BLUE RIDGE BRIEFS by JEDD FERRIS CLIMBER PLEADS GUILTY TO KILLING MENTOR AT MARYLAND CRAG Back in December 2013 local D.C.area climbing fixture Geoffrey Farrar died at age 69 after being found bleeding from his head below a cliff at the Carderock Recreation Area. Farrar was well known at the popular Maryland crag for mentoring young climbers like David DiPaolo, his steadfast climbing sidekick for many years. Farrar’s death was initially thought to be a climbing accident, but authorities had different suspicions, and the following month DiPaolo was arrested and charged with manslaughter for killing his friend with a claw hammer. This past February, more than three years later, DiPaolo pleaded guilty to the crime, reaching an agreement that will likely get him 10 to 15 years in prison. DiPaolo has claimed that he acted in self defense after an altercation with Farrar. According to a story in The Washington Post, it was revealed in court documents that DiPaolo told police, “I’m sorry this happened. I didn’t want it to happen. I didn’t know it was going to happen.” BIG ATTENDANCE INCREASES AT NORTH CAROLINA STATE PARKS State parks in North Carolina are seeing more visitors than ever. The North Carolina Division of Parks and Recreation recently revealed that the state’s 39 parks hosted a record 17.3 million people in 2015. That’s a substantial increase from the 15.6 million visitors in 2014, as 30 parks, including many of the scenic favorites in western North Carolina saw attendance growth last year. 8

Blue Ridge favorites getting a boost include Grandfather Mountain State Park in the North Carolina High Country, which had a 30-percent increase in visitors, and Gorges State Park, which had an even bigger increase of 48 percent.

PROFESSOR WRITES BOOK ON A.T. LIFE

HUNT INGTON, W.VA .

Avid hiker and sociology professor Kristi M. Fondren has written a new book on the Appalachian Trail. Sure, it’s been done, but Fondren, who teaches at Marshall University in Huntington, W.Va., offers a fresh perspective, taking an academic approach to analyzing the unique subculture that develops on the trail among thru-hikers. Walking on the Wild Side: Long Distance Hiking on the Appalachian Trail tells the stories of 46 men and women attempting

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long-distance A.T. hikes. In her research, Fondren hiked close to 600 miles on the trail between Pennsylvania and North Carolina, split between the summers of 2005 and 2007, interviewing hikers along the way. Fondren took a sociological approach to her research, focusing on how the trail essentially becomes a community with its own identity. NEW BILL SPARES DOGS THAT KILL CHICKENS IN VIRGINIA In mid-February, Virginia’s House of Delegates approved a bill that would save dogs that kill chickens from execution. Current law states that dogs that kill chickens or livestock must be immediately killed or sent to another state. According to an AP report, rural lawmakers narrowed the bill to prevent it from including a reprieve for dogs that kill cows.

RUN IN HER SHOES AT MAMA’S DAY 10K Pregnant women in rural Tanzania often walk 10 kilometers or more to reach the nearest clinic. Runners in the Mama’s Day 10K will help support these women while traveling that same distance. The Mama’s Day 10K will be held May 7 on the greenways of Asheville’s Carrier Park. Proceeds benefit Mama Maisha, a nonprofit founded by local runners Jeff and Reta Graham to provide care and resources to at-risk women in Tanzania. illustration by WADE MICKLEY

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BEYOND THE BLUE RIDGE

TAKE THE NATIONAL BIKE CHALLENGE Looking to get back in the saddle after a long winter off your bike? Consider taking the National Bike Challenge, a nationwide effort to get people pedaling that is being organized by the cycling advocacy group People for Bikes for the fifth straight year. The organization’s 2016 goal is to have 100,000 people ride a total of 75 million miles between May 1 and September 30. On the National Bike Challenge’s website, nationalbikechallenge.org, you can easily sign up, track your miles, and see how you’re contributing to the overall goal. NEW HALF-MARATHON STROLLER RECORD SET IN TEXAS

K ATY, TEX AS

In early February, Calum Neff set a new record for running the fastest half marathon while pushing a stroller at the Katy Half Marathon in Katy, Texas, a western suburb of Houston. Not only was Neff’s time of 1:11:27 good enough to break the previous stroller record by more than a minute, it was also good enough to win the race. In a post-race interview with a local NBC station, Neff gave credit to his 11-month-old daughter Holly, who, for the most part didn’t mind the hour-plus-long ride. “During the race she was cooing, clapping, babbling, having an absolute blast,” Neff told KPRC2. “She got a little fussy around mile 11, and had that been in the first mile, I probably would've called off the run and tried to give her a bottle or something.” GoOutAndPlay

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THE LAST STREAM

UNRAVELING THE MYSTERIOUS DEATH OF SMOKIES HIKER JENNY BENNETT by MASON ADAMS

enny Bennett died in the flowing waters of Porters Creek, her body shutting down from a toxic dose of diphenhydramine before succumbing to hypothermia from exposure. She’d been missing a week before her disappearance was reported and a search began. Officials found her body about four miles up the trail, in a place that’s a gateway to some of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park’s most unusual and challenging terrain. The death of the well-known 62-year-old shook the Smoky Mountains Hiking Club and outdoor community throughout Appalachia. Jenny Bennett always wanted to know what was over the next ridge. Since the early ’80s, she explored huge swaths of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, seeking out challenging technical hikes and enjoying the journey as much as the destination. Bennett documented many of her hikes on her blog “Endless Streams and Forests” and participated as an active and much-loved member of the Smoky Mountains Hiking Club, both in the ’80s and then again when she returned to the area in 2010. She explored mountains in California, Colorado, New England, and New York, but she wrote on her website that the “Smokies were my formative influence, involving rockhopping up rhododendron-choked streams in dark mysterious forests of giant tulip poplars and hemlocks.”

JENNY BENNETT REGULARLY HIKED DEEP INTO THE SMOKIES, OFTEN TREKKING OFF-TRAIL. photo by JEAN GAUGER

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Bennett worked as an editor and a writer who traveled the world covering coal markets. She published two novels, both of which featured off-trail hiking. Murder at the Jumpoff hinges on a suspicious death in the terrain around the Greenbrier-area cliff in the title. The Twelve Streams of LeConte follows a woman who embarks on a quest to hike the titular mountain’s 12 streams, blending vivid, autobiographical descriptions of off-trail hikes with the plot of an adventure novel. Chris Sass met Bennett in 2010 when the two tackled Bear Pen Hollow hike. He got so involved in the experience he neglected to drink enough water and had to take a long break. Bennett never got impatient and waited for him to suggest they move on. “She was absolutely devoted to offtrail exploration in the Smokies, and

made trips almost every weekend,” Sass says. “She had a moderate fear of heights but enjoyed facing and overcoming that fear: I've been with her on harrowing cliff faces and towering waterfalls. She would doggedly plunge through the thickest and most punishing vegetation in pursuit of her destination. At the conclusion of an outing, her clothes would often be torn, and she would be dirty, bruised, scratched, bleeding—and smiling ear-to-ear.” In late spring 2015, Bennett was set to move from Sylva, North Carolina, north to Vermont to help care for a family member. She failed to meet movers on June 1. Six days later, she was reported missing. Her car was found that night at the Porters Creek trailhead, and her body soon was located up the trail near a backcountry campsite. Bennett knew the Greenbrier section of the Smokies well. She’d hiked it numerous times, beginning in 1984. The Porters Creek Trail itself is nothing to brag about, says

Clayton Carver, who hiked with Bennett many times in the last few years before her death. “It’s a really boring trail, up until you get onto the manway” above the campsite, Carver says. “Where that takes you is a whole new world, really.” On her blog, Bennett wrote: “Porters Creek and Lester Prong in the Greenbrier form pathways for rockhoppers that lead to mysterious and difficult places.” The manway runs to the Appalachian Trail, connecting with Dry Sluice Gap Trail near Charlies Bunion. Other turns may take off-trail hikers to Rocky Crag and the Jumpoff. Another trait that makes the area distinctive: “The rock is different,” says Hiram Rogers, a geologist and member of the Smoky Mountains Hiking Club who knew Bennett. “Most of the bedrock in the Smokies is that thunderhead sandstone, which forms rolling but massive outcrops. Most of the Porters Creek and Lester Prong area is Anakeesta, more of a slatey rock. The way it breaks, there’s

steeper terrain. It’s harder to climb, with small handholds instead of big handholds. It’s a real rugged, steeper part of the Smokies.” The runs go vertical at times, and they’re often choked with rhododendron and clogged by logjams. “It’s the land of cliffs, drop-offs, landslide scars all over,” Carver says. “It’s pretty much different than any area in the smokes you're going to find, in terms of verticalness. Pretty much every time you go down into that area, it’ll be different. It won’t look the same as the time before, from the flash floods that rage through there.” Carver met Bennett shortly after moving to Gatlinburg from Toledo, Ohio. He’d posted on the GoSmokies social network with photos from his first off-trail hike, which he thought went to No-Name Ridge. Bennett realized he’d missed a turn and corrected him. Carver, who had found her blog and looked up to her as a local hiking legend, was then

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invited to join her and others for a hike up to Charlies Bunion. They took another wrong turn and ended up elsewhere. Bennett was furious at herself; Carver was starstruck. They hiked together another 20 times or more, chatting the whole way. In June, Carver was headed back from a trip to Toledo when he received the broadcast email about Bennett’s disappearance. By the time he completed the eight-hour drive, he decided to go to the Porters Creek trailhead, just to rule it out. “I told my wife, let’s just drive here real quick so we can say we checked,” Carver says. “I remember I came around the corner. I saw her car instantly. I just started crying. Still to this day, it makes my hair stand up. Her car, the place I found her at, was the same exact place she’d parked that first time we hiked together. I jumped out just to look inside. I looked in the back. Her hiking pole was in the backseat. I drove out of there as fast as I could and reported it to the rangers.” Initially, friends thought she may have gotten into trouble while trying to pay tribute to Charlie Klabunde, a longtime hiking club member who had died earlier in 2015 at age 83. Bennett organized a memorial hike, during which Carver and others spread Klabunde’s ashes near Lester Prong. Bennett’s knee blew out when the terrain got steep, and she was forced to turn back. Some theorized that perhaps she was making one last hike for Charlie. The autopsy report by the Sevier County Medical Examiner’s Office, released three months after her body was found, noted bruises on Bennett’s right hip and elbow that indicate she fell, but suffered no real muscular or skeletal damage from the injury. Instead, the medical examiner declared Bennett’s official cause of death to be hypothermia via exposure due to submersion in Porters 14

Creek. Additionally, her blood had a toxic level of diphenhydramine—the generic name for antihistamine and sleep aid Benadryl—which points towards an intentional overdose, said Great Smoky Mountains National Park spokeswoman Dana Soehn. Bennett’s apparent suicide left her close friends struggling to find answers. Sass says she had emailed him on May 26 about him coming to visit her and hike in Vermont. All his communication with her in the days before her death suggested she was looking forward to the future. “For those of us who knew her, we’ve been tortured. It’s something we’ve all spent a lot of time talking about,” Sass says. “At least personally, I’ve accepted that I’ll never have any real certainty about what happened and why.” Like Sass, Carver recognized no warning signs or red flags in Bennett’s behavior over the months leading up to her death. The two had been emailing in the days prior to her disappearance, with her trying to link him up with another off-trail hiking buddy. “Now looking back and with everything that’s happened, I can say she was in a different place than where she’d normally been—very moody, edgy, irritated,” Carver says. “The last couple of hikes we had done together, when we first met and got out of our cars, you could tell something. At the time I didn’t know she was down, but she just wasn’t herself. After we got hiking, she’d come alive.” Ed Fleming, a resident of Gatlinburg and longtime member of the Smoky Mountains Hiking Club, says that Bennett ran into some issues

BENNETT BUSHWHACKS UP A STEEP RIDGE. photo by CLAYTON CARVER

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while serving as editor of the club newsletter that eventually led to her resignation. But like Carver, he didn’t connect the dots until after her death. “Apparently she had some issues going that she didn’t really share too much with a lot of other people,” Fleming says. “A lot of people think we should have seen the signs and been able to do something to help her. She didn’t really want any help from anybody.” Suicide ranks with drowning and heart attacks as one of the leading causes of death on public lands. In 2010 the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention released a report on suicides in national parks. From 2003 to 2009, 84 national parks reported 194 suicides, along with 92 unsuccessful attempts. The most common methods were firearms and falls. We don’t know what was going

through Bennett’s mind or happening to her in the moments leading up to her death, but it’s easy to see the appeal of Lester Prong as a final resting place. It’s the gateway to a world of adventure and possibility. Perhaps Jenny Bennett found its appeal as a portal irresistible. The Porters Creek Trail runs by Fern Branch Falls, which falls more than 40 feet into a boulder field on the left side of the trail. A little more than a mile and a half of steady climbing later, hikers reach the backcountry campsite. Late May marks the end of peak spring wildflower season. Dutchman’s pipe vine, wild ginger, speckled wood lily and Indian pink bloom that time of the year. The weather that week was typical: highs in the 80s, lows in the upper 50s. It’s tempting to envision Bennett’s final moments as peaceful ones, with the brook babbling, wildflowers wafting in a soft breeze, spring songbirds warbling through the rhododendron.

Her body was found just downstream from the first crossing on the manway above the campsite. She was sitting in Porters Creek, with her head resting against rocks as pillows for her final slumber. “There was a significant pool in the stream there,” Fleming says. “She was just lying back against a rock, like she just reclined there.” In September, a few months after her death, Carver joined Fleming and Jenny’s brother, Peter Bennett of Bozeman, Montana, to take her up Lester Prong for a final time. They bushwhacked past boulders, overgrown brush, and downed tree trunks to a spot at about 4,400 feet, where they spread some of her ashes at the same place where they’d placed Charlie Klabunde’s earlier in the year. Peter Bennett spread more of her ashes in the woods behind a house where they’d played growing up in Arlington, Virginia. Then he headed north to the White Mountains of New Hampshire, climbing the kind of steep, rocky trail she loved so

much, and spread ashes near the top of Mount Jefferson. “She had climbed all these mountains many times and I knew she would want to have a final resting place here,” Peter Bennett wrote in what has become the final post on Jenny’s blog. “I felt it was important to honor Jenny by scattering her cremains at these important places in her life. Her life was full of adventure and the hikes to her final resting spots were the kinds of challenges that she enjoyed the most.” Carver has been continuing to take the off-trail hikes that he and Jenny Bennett had talked about before her death. In January, he took his 11-year-old daughter to a waterfall that Bennett had told him about. “We would climb up ridges and once at the top, Jenny would point out all the ridges and peaks around us and tell me what their names were,” Carver says. “Now most of those places that she pointed out are my destinations.”

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CUTTING COAL THE SOUTHEAST'S CLIMATE SUCCESS STORY by ERYN GABLE

en years ago, King Coal reigned supreme. The Southeast's electric companies operated 246 coal-fired power plants and planned to build another nine units. Today, utilities plan to retire or have already retired 126 of those coal-fired units, and they have shelved plans for seven of the proposed units. How did this happen—especially in the heart of coal country? “There are basically three driving forces behind this trend: changes in technology, changes in economics, and changes in regulation over the past few years,” says Jonas Monast, director of the climate and energy program at Duke University's Nicholas Institute for Environmental Policy Solutions. On the regulatory front, one important driver was EPA's 2011 Mercury and Air Toxics Standards Rule, which requires power plants to substantially limit their emissions of toxic air pollutants like mercury, arsenic and heavy metals. The rule forced utilities to install the most effective pollution controls available, essentially making them pay for the pollution created by burning coal by internalizing the costs of using it as a fuel. Faced with these installation costs, utilities in the six Southeastern states decided instead to shutter 58 old, inefficient coal-fired units. State laws have played a role as well. The 2002 North Carolina Clean Smokestacks Act required the state's 14 coal-fired power plants to reduce by three-quarters the emissions of nitrogen oxide and sulfur dioxide— the main pollutants responsible for ozone, smog, acid rain and other air quality problems. Power companies

achieved those cuts by installing $2.9 billion worth of scrubbers and other pollution controls, as well as closing many older coal-fired power plants. Utilities have shuttered seven coalfired power plants in North Carolina since 2011 and slated another three for retirement or conversion to other fuel sources by 2020. These pollution controls and closures have reduced North Carolina's carbon emissions from electricity by 27.4 percent and mercury emissions by 70 percent.

REPLACING COAL At the same time that federal and state regulations are making coalfired plants more costly to operate, other sources of energy, particularly natural gas and renewables, have become less expensive. Duke Energy has already retired about half of its Carolinas coal fleet, shutting down units at 11 coal-burning power plants. In their place, the company has built two combined-cycle natural gas plants,

which generate up to 50 percent more electricity than traditional plants by routing waste heat from the gas turbines into a nearby steam turbine. The Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA), South Carolina Power & Gas, and Dominion Virginia Power also plan to replace coal-fired plants with natural gas units. "Natural gas is a more attractive fuel source because federal policy

ASHEVILLE'S BEYOND COAL CAMPAIGN PRESSURED DUKE TO CLOSE ITS COAL PLANT. photo by JEFF RICH

making it fourth nationally in installed solar, and is also home to one of the South's first large-scale commercial wind farms, the Amazon East Wind Farm, which is expected to start producing power by the end of the year.

Over half of the South's coal fired power plants have been closed in the past decade. is not friendly to carbon, and coal emissions generate carbon," says Dominion spokesman David Botkins. Renewables are also playing an important role in the Southeast's clean energy economy. For example, North Carolina has 1 gigawatt of installed solar power in the state,

And some utilities are relying on renewable energy sources from other parts of the country to boost their renewable portfolio as well. Since wind power has proven difficult to develop in much of Tennessee, TVA has contracts to purchase more than 1,500 MW of wind capacity from

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the Midwest, in addition to purchasing wind power from the 27 MW Buffalo Mountain Wind Energy Center in Oliver Springs, Tenn. One factor driving the switch to cleaner-burning energy is EPA's Clean Power Plan, which sets statespecific targets for achieving a 32 percent reduction in the nation's carbon emissions. The Supreme Court temporarily stopped the plan in February, ruling in an ideologically split decision that EPA can't implement the plan until the courts settle the legal challenges against it. A coalition of 24 statesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;including Alabama, Georgia, North Carolina and South Carolinaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;are challenging the plan, questioning EPA's authority to impose the regulations and some of the plan's specifics, such as its use of 2012 as a baseline year, after many states had made significant progress in cutting CO2 emissions from coal-fired plants.

DOZENS OF COAL-FIRED POWER PLANTS HAVE BEEN SHUTTERED ACROSS THE SOUTHEAST SINCE 2005. illustration by JEFF RICH

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BENEFITS FOR HEALTH AND THE ENVIRONMENT Outdoor organizations and public health groups are hopeful that cutting back on coal will have benefits for human health and the environment. "Someone who's in the hiker community and spends a lot of time active in the outdoors may not think of themselves as at risk from air pollution in the outdoors, but it affects everyone,” says Janice Nolen, assistant vice president of national policy for the American Lung Association. She notes that several studies have shown a decline in hikers' lung function as ozone levels rose, even at levels below EPA's safety standard. KELLY MARTIN SPEARHEADED THE EFFORT TO SHUTTER ASHEVILLE'S COAL-FIRED POWER PLANT. photo by JEFF RICH

Less demand for coal also reduces mining and its associated environmental impacts, including habitat disturbance, water pollution, acid mine drainage, and greenhouse gas emissions. There are also direct impacts from the coal-fired generation itself, most notably the storage of waste products in coal ash landfills and ponds, which can contaminate groundwater, wetlands, creeks, and other waterways with toxic metals that can cause cancer and neurological damage. In the Southeast alone, there are about 400 coal ash storage facilities, including more than 50 sites where there is known pollution or contamination, according to the Southern Alliance for Clean Energy. Most notably, a 2008 spill at TVA's Kingston Plant sent more than 1 billion gallons of ash sludge pouring into the Emory River and a 2014 spill at a Duke Energy plant sent almost 39,000 tons of coal ash and 24 million gallons of wastewater into the Dan

River. David McKinney, chief of environmental services for the Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency, noted that coal-fired facilities affect fish populations by releasing water that's too warm for fish or killing fish when they draw water from lakes and rivers. "As the global demand for coal diminishes, eventually the environmental consequences of the extraction and preparation process should likewise diminish," McKinney says. The South’s dramatic reductions in carbon emissions in a single decade show that a clean energy future is within reach, says the Sierra Club’s Kelly Martin. "Transitioning to renewable energy sources will ensure we have cleaner air and cleaner water in the places we live and love to be in." CLIMATE HEROES

Check out more clean energy activists featured in our Pioneers Project at BlueRidgeOutdoors.com

2016

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FREE YOUR FEET

THE SCIENCE OF BAREFOOT RUNNING—AND HOW ONE INJURED RUNNER MADE THE TRANSITION by MARK CUCUZZELLA, M.D.

s a family practice physician, I offer the prescription of daily exercise to every patient. Common replies include: “Well, I can’t run.” “I have a bad back, knee, ankle.” “My last doctor told me to do something safer.” “It’s too difficult and painful.” The solution for many lies in getting in touch with their body and the ground. The foot—the least understood of all moving body parts—is the orchestrator and foundation of all motion. What we do know is that it is perfectly designed for its most important functions: absorbing shock, sending signals to the brain to maintain stability, and forward propulsion. Modern shoes—inventions of the past 30-plus years—haven’t been able to improve upon the natural function of the million-year-old human foot. Take a look at the chain of events that happen when you place your foot in a modern shoe: the heel is elevated, toes are compressed, the arch of the foot is braced, and forces on the knees, hips, pelvis, and spine are altered. The arch—when restricted within a non-anatomically shaped shoe— doesn’t function in the manner it was designed for. And elevating the heel initiates a domino effect of compensations. Even the large toe is dynamic and important. Overall, the loss of foot stability is telegraphed up the kinetic chain of our bodies, tilting the pelvis, swaying the back, and shifting our center of mass forward— away from the critical area of the foot that is meant to bear weight. Our posture and gait are thrown out of whack. Picture an orderly stack of

building blocks. Then elevate one edge of the very bottom block. To re-stabilize the tottering stack, you’ll likely need to make several adjustments, mis-aligning each piece from bottom to top. The current minimal running movement is the confluence where doctors, podiatrists, health professionals, coaches, and runners are now joining and discovering the prevention prescription. My goal is simply to get folks outside, moving, and enjoying their

activity pain-free. This has led to a number of events in my own community of Shepherdstown, West Virginia, and even my opening a small running store with a focus on teaching running form and minimalism. Before running barefoot, I suffered multiple injuries, foot surgery, and was told not to run. Then, ten years ago, I decided to try running in more minimalist shoes. I began cutting shoes down to a level drop, and gradually as my understanding

of foot mechanics and kinetic chain evolved, I started going into thinner and thinner shoes. Today I rarely use shoes in summer no matter what the surface and use minimal protection for the cold in the winter. I haven't had any major injuries in ten years of running in minimalist footwear. I presented barefoot and minimalist running science with experts Dr. Dan Lieberman and Dr. Irene Davis at the 2011 Boston Marathon. Here are a few of the takeaways I’ve learned from 15 years

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reckless in thin shoes, but barefoot running teaches me the foot control, stability, form, and recoil that I can use better when I put a thin shoe back on.

THE ANATOMY OF THE FOOT IN A RUNNING SHOE. illustration by ALEX BAKER

MUSCLES AND TENDONS FEEL DISCOMFORT; JOINTS DO NOT. This is really important. A little soreness is a training effect as tissues get stronger. The worst running injuries are arthritis of major joints and these joints (big toe, knee, hip) are not wired for pain until extreme damage has occurred. So yes, everyone should fix their form and learn to land better even if one is not “hurt.” I’M WAKING UP MY SPRINGS. Running is mostly elastic, and the more we are braced, the smaller the springs become. I do supplemental drills to retrain this mechanism.

of running barefoot: YOU LAND SOFTER BAREFOOT, ESPECIALLY ON THE HARD ROADS. After a barefoot run where you must self regulate, there is less overall soreness. You experience discomfort and fatigue in the feet well before tissue breakdown (as long as you listen to your feet). The day after running the 2011 Boston Marathon (a 2:34.00 at age 44) in a thin and flat shoe, I had some of the usual post-marathon soreness. I set out on a gentle barefoot run along the Charles River. After this run my body was reset. There was something magical about this that I could not fully explain. 26

YOUR FEET BECOME THICKER AND SOFTER. One does not develop hard calluses, but rather a soft and thicker skin that is very resilient to surface irregularities. The road is the ultimate pumice stone as Dr. Irene Davis has said. The muscles of the foot thicken too. I cannot fit in any shoe I wore two years ago. My feet look like the hands of a lumberjack now and I have a large buffer to injury. My skin, muscles, bones, and tendons have become nearly bombproof. I HAVE NOT CUT MY FOOT ON NEEDLES OR GLASS. Actually if I were to run over small pieces of glass or sharp rocks, I would not be too worried. Like our primal ancestors who ran on rocks, the skin

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is tough and shapes around the object. A sharp, large protruding object is a different story. This is where eyes come in. Tune in and watch for hazards. MY POSTURE AND FORM IMPROVE. Running barefoot forces me to engage my glutes and get my foot down to the ground in the correct vector (accelerating backwards) and reducing what is referred to in the literature as the “loading rate” (the rapidity of the deceleration on contact). THERE IS MORE WORK IN BAREFOOT RUNNING, ESPECIALLY WHEN THE SURFACE IS NOT SUPER SMOOTH. For racing I can go faster and more

I have found a new enjoyment in running which comes from the sensations of the foot with the ground. My first running was barefoot on the beach. I am reconnecting with my inner child with a new sense of play when I run. The transition is patient and slow. Even after five years of barefooting and 10 years of minimal shoes, I’m still adapting. How do you start incorporating barefoot into your day? Go barefoot as often as possible. Just try it progressively over varied indoor and outdoor textures. The proprioceptors in your foot adjust mechanoreceptors throughout your body. Movement guru Dr. Kelly Starrett encourages “Barefoot Saturdays.” Never wear shoes inside. Spend your work day in the most minimal lifestyle shoe you can get away with. I challenge you to master the art of running slow in your bare feet. This will provide so many benefits for your aerobic system, your brain, your fascia, and the neurologic patterning that is movement. Rediscover the joy and run for your life.

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PROTECTING THE SOUTH’S ENVIRONMENT through the POWER of the LAW

Make family moments and lifetime memories. Join us for special events and activities as we celebrate our anniversary all year.

800-933-PARK (7275) | www.virginiastateparks.gov

EXPLORE THE CLASSICS by JESS DADDIO

TO CELEBR AT E T H E 100th anniversary of the national park system, we’re highlighting the best of our three iconic national parks in Appalachia: Shenandoah, the Smokies, and the iconic parkway that connects them.

SHENA NDOAH NATIONAL PA RK, VIRGINIA ESTABLISHED: DECEMBER 26, 1935 SIZE: 197,438 ACRES PEAK: HAWKSBILL MOUNTAIN—4,049’

Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley has long attracted human interest. Its plethora of natural resources like water, minerals, and fertile soil nurtured early Native American populations. Unsurprisingly, when 18th century European trappers first laid eyes on the valley’s rolling ridges and open meadows, they saw opportunity. Though Shenandoah’s 300 square-miles would later see decades of logging and mines, it was that bounty of natural beauty

that eventually secured the valley’s national park status in 1935. Now, visitors can experience Shenandoah’s storied past by way of the park’s 500-plus miles of hiking trails, 101 of which include the Appalachian Trail (another National Park unit under the National Scenic Trail designation). Amid the fields of wildflowers and rhododendron tunnels runs Skyline Drive, the 105-mile backbone of Shenandoah National Park. The only public road through the park, Skyline’s paved route is popular among Sunday drivers and road cyclists, especially during peak fall colors. TO P T R E K S I N S H E N A N DOA H

OLD RAG

Nethers, Virginia VIEWS: CAMPING: SOLITUDE: DIFFICULTY:

Likely the most popular hike in Shenandoah, the vistas atop Old Rag draw a crowd every weekend,

regardless of the season. The circuit itself is certainly no walk in the park—it’s about eight miles roundtrip with a steep section of rock scrambling that becomes even more heinous in wet and wintry conditions. Yet for those of us seeking solace in the woods, the trail will be the least of your problems. If you can bare the fraternity groups and middle school field trips you’ll likely find on any given weekend, the textbook Blue Ridge views at the summit are entirely worth the sweat. Avoid weekends and holidays, get up early, or play hooky to beat the crowds. Parking at the Old Rag trailhead is limited, so consider carpooling or hitchhiking (we encourage both). Camping is prohibited above 2,800 feet, and all backcountry campers are required to obtain a permit. WHITEOAK CANYON

Syria, Virginia VIEWS: CAMPING: SOLITUDE: DIFFICULTY:

SUNRISE IN SHENANDOAH NATIONAL PARK

Shenandoah’s steep terrain certainly lends itself to rocks, on the one hand, but also tight and twisting streams, gentle cascades, and pounding waterfalls. Whiteoak Canyon is a little bit of all of that. With a total of six waterfalls ranging in height from 35 to 86 feet, the canyon is a mecca for swimming holes, but don’t expect to have the place to yourself. Though not as popular as nearby Dark Hollow Falls, Whiteoak Canyon is rarely empty on a hot summer’s day, and with good reason—the large pool at the bottom of the lower falls is deep, easily accessible, and the perfect place to cool off mid-hike. Climb the trail to the upper falls for a scenic view from above and an extra mile or two to your trip. This out-and-back hike is 4.9 miles round-trip from the parking lot off Skyline Drive at milepost 42.6 to the upper falls and back. The trail can be tricky at times, but is wellmaintained and family friendly.

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Crozet, Virginia VIEWS: CAMPING: SOLITUDE: DIFFICULTY:

With challenging climbs, panoramic scenes, and creek crossings, this 13.3mile hike embodies all that we love about Shenandoah National Park. Starting from Browns Gap parking lot off Skyline Drive at milepost 82.9, the climb begins gradually as you saunter up Madison Run Fire Road but quickly steepens once you cross Madison Run Creek (a wild brook trout haven, for all you anglers out there). Serious hikers can knock this trip out in a long day, completing the loop by way of the Appalachian Trail. For those looking to break the trip up over the course of two days, there’s a killer campsite big enough for a tent and some hammocks at the summit of Furnace Mountain. During peak thru-hiker season, you may encounter a few scraggly thru-hikers making their way along the white blaze, but for the most part, the difficulty and distance of this hike keep the crowds at bay. OVERALL RUN FALLS

Bentonville, Virginia VIEWS: CAMPING: SOLITUDE: DIFFICULTY:

At 93 feet, Overall Run Falls is the tallest waterfall in the park. Couple that with a hike that takes you through an area with pristine swimming holes and the highest concentration of black bears, and and you’ve got your new weekend go-to. Make a loop out of the normal 4.7-mile out-and-back by connecting Beecher Ridge, where you’re likely to sight that black bear we mentioned. The Beecher Ridge-Overall Run loop is only 8.5 miles total, but you’ll want to leave plenty of time to soak in the sights of Massanutten Mountain and Page Valley. Keep an eye out for side

trails that lead to small campsites— you can extend your trip into a short overnighter by parking off Chrisman Road and following Heiskell Hollow Trail to its intersection with Mathews Arm Trail and the TuscaroraOverall Run Trail. This 12.7-mile alternative hides homestead ruins in its undergrowth for those interested in the park’s history. Visit in early spring, or even winter, when heavy rains and snowmelt make the falls surge!

GREAT SMOKY MOUNTA INS NATIONAL PA RK, TENN., N.C. ESTABLISHED: JUNE 15, 1934 SIZE: 522,427 ACRES PEAK: CLINGMANS DOME— 6,643’

Of the country’s 59 national parks, Great Smoky Mountains sees the highest annual visitation. In 2013 alone, more than 9.4 million visitors came to the park—that’s twice that of Grand Canyon National Park, which comes in with the second highest visitation at 4.6 million. Despite its popularity, the 800 square-miles of rugged land between North Carolina and Tennessee are some of the wildest areas east of the Mississippi. Finding solitude amid the Smokies’ 16 6,000-plus-foot peaks (and 850 miles of trail) is hardly a challenge, if you’re willing to work for it. These high-elevation summits shelter more than great adventure. Some 1,600 species of flowering plants have made the Smokies their home, and from mid-June through mid-July, the mountainsides are covered in brilliant displays of mountain laurel, rhododendron, and azalea in bloom. The symbol of the Smokies, the American black bear serves as yet another example of the park’s inherent remoteness. With more than 1,500 bears patrolling the park’s interior, Great Smoky Mountains National Park is the largest protected bear habitat in the East. Like a cherry on an adventurously

decadent sundae, the park and all of its natural glory are free to the public. It’s one of the few parks in the country that does not charge an entrance fee. TO P T R E K S I N T H E S M O K I E S

CHARLIES BUNION

Gatlinburg, Tennessee VIEWS: CAMPING: SOLITUDE: DIFFICULTY:

Stand atop Charlies Bunion and experience the wonder that inspired Bryson City writer Horace Kephart to advocate for the creation of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Roughly 70 miles of the Appalachian Trail run through the Smokies, and it’s the A.T.’s white blazes you’ll follow to reach the dramatic rock outcropping that is Charlies Bunion. Begin at Newfound Gap parking lot, the site of President Franklin Roosevelt’s park dedication ceremony in 1934. From there, you’ll climb 1,600 feet over the course of four miles. It’s a butt-buster, so take your time. You’ll know you’ve arrived at Charlies Bunion when you spy a spur trail forking off to the left. The trail dead-ends into a sheer drop-off that will drop your jaw. Watch your footing when you’re posing for a selfie.

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Tallassee, Tennessee VIEWS: CAMPING: SOLITUDE: DIFFICULTY:

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hike to Abrams Falls. The falls are only 20 feet in height, but their power is real. Naturally dammed by deadfall and rock, the otherwise idle Abrams Creek surges to life here. The pool below the falls looks appealing to swim in, and it is, but be forewarned—many injuries have occurred in the area surrounding the falls due to slick rock and hidden roots. Anglers will enjoy the wide, lazy bends in the creek around 1.6 miles in, so pack a rod. Though there are no designated camping sites in the immediate areas surrounding the Abrams Falls Trail, there are a few options on nearby Rabbit Creek Trail and Hannah Mountain Trail. MOUNT CAMMERER

Cosby, Tennessee VIEWS: CAMPING: SOLITUDE: DIFFICULTY:

Rising above the northeastern fringe of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Mount Cammerer practically straddles the North Carolina and Tennessee border. Named for Arno Cammerer, who served as Director for the National Park Service from 1933 until 1940, Mount Cammerer is two parts beauty, one part history. At the height of this 4,928-foot mountain looms a lookout tower built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the late 1930s. Hikers can access the summit and tower by way of Low Gap Trail, which eventually links up to the A.T. A short spur trail leads to the mountain’s proper summit as well as 360-degree views of neighboring peaks like Mount Sterling, Snowbird Mountain, and below, the Pigeon River Gorge. Plan for a long day on the trail, as the out-and-back trek totals 11 miles. RAMSEY CASCADES

the tallest waterfall in the park, is certainly a sight worth seeing, but it’s the stands of old-growth forest that really make this hike spectacular. It’s an eight-mile out-and-back hike and it’s tough, steadily climbing 2,200 feet to the base of the falls. During the last two miles before you reach Ramsey Cascades, giant tulip trees, basswoods, silverbells, and yellow birches emerge from the forest. Be on the lookout for red maple, white oak, and black cherry trees of substantial size, too—some of the park’s tallest trees will be all around you. Use the Greenbrier entrance to the Smokies to access this special gem.

BLUE RIDGE PA RKWAY, VA., N.C. ESTABLISHED: JUNE 30, 1936, COMPLETED 1987 SIZE: 469 MILES PEAK: RICHLAND BALSAM OVERLOOK, N.C.—6,047’

The Blue Ridge Parkway is more than just a road. It’s a park, a ribbon of adventure, a physical map of times long past. It does more than provide access to the mountains it connects— it protects them, too. Winding for 469 miles from central Virginia to western North Carolina, the Blue Ridge Parkway seamlessly joins Shenandoah National Park with Great Smoky Mountains National Park. With nearly 300 overlooks and hundreds more trail access points, the parkway is a never-ending source for inspiration, recreation, and even education. Along the way, drivers will see prehistoric and early settlement infrastructure as well as traces of industries that once fueled Appalachia. Drive, bike, or hike through the decades and along the parkway that pays homage to the mountains we hold so dear.

Gatlinburg, Tennessee VIEWS: CAMPING: SOLITUDE: DIFFICULTY:

The 100-foot Ramsey Cascades,

THE BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY PROVIDES EASY ACCESS TO BLACK BALSAM'S PANORAMIC VISTAS. photo by DEREK DILUZIO

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WEIR D PL ACE NA MES IN THE SOUTHEASTER N NATIONA L PA RKS BOOGERMAN TRAIL, situated in Cataloochee Valley, is named not for the Boogeyman but, rather, Robert Palmer, one of the few locals who refused to allow timber companies to log on his property during the early 1900s. Thanks to Palmer, whose childhood nickname “Boogerman” carried into adulthood, this trail shelters some of the tallest trees in the Cataloochee Valley. BIG BUTT Mountain and Trail rises above Buncombe and Haywood counties in North Carolina. In geographic lingo, “butt” refers to an abrupt end of a ridge or mountain. Consequently, the landscape here is craggy with rock fins and abutments around every corner. CHARLIES BUNION is a rock outcropping from which you can view Mount Le Conte on a clear day. Horace Kephart supposedly penned the name in 1929 during a hike with Swain County native Charlie Conner, photographer George Masa, and others. During a break, Conner removed his boots and exposed a bunion that, to Kephart, looked every bit as impressive as the surrounding rock features. Kephart reportedly told Conner, “Charlie, I’m going to get this place put on a government map for you.” STANDING INDIAN looms nearly 5,500 feet above the southern Nantahala Forest. Its summit is the tallest peak south of the Smokies. Legend has it that the mountain takes its name from a sentinel, a Cherokee Indian warrior sent to the summit to keep watch for the winged monster that had stolen a child. The watchman turned to stone when a lightning storm struck the mountain, killing the monster and creating the treeless summit for which Standing Indian is known. PEAKS OF OTTER in Virginia would, you think, reference a native river otter population residing in the 24acre Abbott Lake, yet there are no known otters in the area. The most commonly accepted explanation for

the name stems back to Charles and Robert Ewing, two brothers who came to the area from Scotland around 1700. Supposedly, the Ewing brothers named a number of streams and hills after destinations in their home country. “Otter” is used quite frequently in Scotland place names. GRAVEYARD FIELDS in North Carolina is just that—a haunting reminder of times long past. Once a seemingly impenetrable evergreen forest, a freak windstorm several hundred years ago uprooted the spruce forest leaving only stumps in its wake. With two detrimental fires in 1925 and again in the 1940s, as well as the presence of logging in the area, the present-day open expanse is the result of natural and manmade forces alike. OLD RAG is anything but a decrepit piece of cloth. Sometimes called “Old Ragged Top,” Old Rag Mountain received its name due to the irregular ridgeline and unusually rocky nature. STONY MAN is, you guessed it, a mountain with a lot of stones that looks a little bit like a bearded man. No one knows who first dubbed the summit “Stony Man,” but by 1895, the name was commonplace. MCAFEE KNOB is well known among hikers for its stunning, panoramic views of the surrounding Catawba Valley, Roanoke Valley, Tinker Cliffs, and North Mountain, but did you know that the summit itself takes its name from James McAfee? McAfee was a Scots-Irish immigrant who settled in the Catawba Valley in the late 1730s. THE PRIEST is certainly holy in its grandeur. It stands some 4,000 feet above Nelson County, Va. While some theories suggest The Priest was named after the DuPriest family that lived in the area, many others believe a local minister saw the nearby mountain peaks like a church away from church. The Cardinal and The Friar are neighboring peaks to The Priest, and together, these summits form the Religious Range. —Jess Daddio

TO P T R E K S A L O N G T H E B L U E R I D G E PA R K WAY

ROUGH RIDGE

THE A.T. SPANS THE SMOKIES FOR 72 BREATHTAKING MILES. photo by FRANK KEHREN

Boone, North Carolina VIEWS: CAMPING: SOLITUDE: DIFFICULTY:

APPLE ORCHARD FALLS

Buchanan, Virginia

Short on time? Need a new leaf peeping spot? The Rough Ridge Overlook is your answer. Just a short, but steep, trek from the parking lot reveals a sprawl of mountain ranges filing one behind the other as far as the eye can see. It’s enough of a scene to make you feel small and insignificant. Even the Linn Cove Viaduct, visible from the summit of Rough Ridge, is dwarfed in the shadow of Grandfather Mountain. The boardwalks and stairs seem unnatural, but are meant to protect the fragile mountain-heather ecosystem that carpets the hillside. The path is part of the 13-mile Tanawha Trail, which parallels the parkway between Julian Price Park and Beacon Heights. If you have a second vehicle, you can extend your hike up Rough Ridge to include more of the Tanawha system.

VIEWS: CAMPING: SOLITUDE: DIFFICULTY:

This 5.6-mile loop around Apple Orchard Falls is a cure-all for even the worst of hot summer days. The trail is cool and shady from the canopy above, with multiple creek crossings and opportunities to splash your face. The falls themselves, which tumble some 200 feet down housesized rocks, usually always have water, regardless of the amount of recent rainfall. This particular loop is easily doable in a day, but why rush it? There are ample amount of campsites sprinkled throughout the forest, and with such ready access to water, you can easily set up a base camp and explore other sections on Cornelius Creek and the Appalachian Trail.

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THE PARKS L E S S T R AV E L E D Venture Beyond Shenandoah and the Smokies: the South boasts over 50 national park units—including caves, swamps, historic battlefields, and world-class whitewater rivers. by JESS DADDIO

SH ENA N D OA H, GR E AT Smoky Mountains National Park, Shenandoah, and the Blue Ridge Parkway are three of the country’s most popular national parks, with a combined total of more than 30 million visitors annually. But there are over 50 other national park units across the South. Some are official but lesser-known national parks like Congaree and Mammoth Cave. Others are managed by the National Park Service but have slightly different designations, including national monuments, national seashores, and national battlefields. Even the White House and Pennsylvania Avenue are part of the national park system. So what distinguishes areas worthy of inclusion? Beyond the importance of their environmental assets, national park designations first and foremost provide visitors with “windows on the past,” be it through the home of Franklin D. Roosevelt or

the rapids of the New River Gorge. Check out 10 of our less-heralded, often-overlooked national park units and adventures in the Southeast and Mid-Atlantic, then go outside and celebrate the #nps100! National Rivers and Wild and Scenic Riverways preserve ribbons of land bordering free-flowing streams which have not been dammed, channelized, or otherwise altered. BIG SOUTH FORK NATIONAL RIVER AND RECREATION AREA

Tennessee and Kentucky Clear blue waters, raging class IV+ rapids, countless waterfalls and swimming holes tucked behind bands of sandstone bluffs. This national river and recreation area is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts of all varieties. Its protected lands, cliffs, and waters expand for 125,000 acres across the Cumberland Plateau. The rugged

geography is home to natural stone arches, caves, and ancient dwellings.

THE LILLY BLUFF OVERLOOK OFFERS STUNNING VIEWS OF THE OBED WILD AND SCENIC RIVER.

The Big South Fork gorge plunges 500 feet to where it meets the river, which means steep terrain and technical whitewater. The park offers 180 miles of trails for hikers and trail runners, 35 miles for mountain bikers, and nearly 200 miles for equestrians. The trails are caninefriendly, and the mountain bike access is expected to expand in the coming years. And for paddlers of all abilities, the vast watershed of the Big South Fork of the Cumberland provides flatwater and whitewater trips alike. Make an overnighter out of your flatwater float, or experience the sheer cliff walls and class IV+ rapids of the gorge in a day. Many tributaries like Pine Creek and North White Oak are steep and technical and attract the attention of the region’s best paddlers.

STAY: Need amenities? We don’t blame you. Bandy Creek on the Tennessee side and Blue Heron in Kentucky are developed campgrounds that provide easy access to the park. Backcountry camping is allowed throughout Big South Fork, but a permit and minimal fee is required.

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GET THERE: Just under an hour-and-ahalf from Knoxville, Tenn., the park is located off TN-297 W, but do your homework ahead of time—cell service can be spotty in these parts and GPS directions are unreliable. The closest town to Big South Fork is Oneida, Tenn.

OBED WILD AND SCENIC RIVER

Tennessee Legend has it that the Obed River was named after the longhunter

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Small Town. Big Views. Ellijay is the perfect basecamp for exploring two of Georgiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best state parks- Fort Mountain State Park and Amicalola State Park. While visiting our Appalachian Trail Community be sure to pick up some local produce, local wines, and local crafts from one of our downtown shops after a day of hiking or biking our awesome trails. ExploreTheEllijays.com

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Obediah Terril, who explored the Cumberland Plateau in the late 18th century. The present-day protected lands once hosted the Catoosa Railroad, where small communities thrived. Yet after two devastating floods in 1929 and again in 1940, Mother Nature reclaimed what was rightfully hers. For decades, the land remained practically untouched except for the seldom few who dared to venture into the Obed’s remote watershed. But when the Tennessee Valley authority announced plans to construct a dam on the Obed, the locals pushed back. Bill and Lee Russell, who jointly formed the grassroots advocacy group Tennessee Citizens for Wilderness Planning (TCWP), led the charge. Their cause gained momentum, enough so that in 1976 the National Park Service designated the Obed a Wild and Scenic River. The Obed’s sandstone cliff bands hide some of the best sport climbing in the Southeast. With over 350 developed sport routes speckled throughout the area, a developing boulder scene, and mild weather yearround, climbers can expect relative solitude at the crags on even the sunniest of weekends. The climbing here is steep, sometimes scaling more than 120 feet in a single pitch and with horizontal roofs, jugs, and slopers galore. For whitewater enthusiasts, paddling the Obed River is a must. Combined with the Emory watershed, there are over 100 miles of river that wait. From flatwater to the class II-IV Obed Canyon, boaters will be rewarded with a scenic and pristine experience in a river that has remained largely unchanged throughout the centuries.

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Affordable, authentic, and dog friendly. Doesn’t get much better than Del and Marte Scruggs’ Lilly Pad, where the hosts are welcoming, the beers are cold (and brewed inhouse), and the campfire is always stoked. Free backcountry camping permits are available online or at the STAY:

Obed Visitor Center for those who want to rough it, while the nearby Rock Creek Campground provides primitive toilets and grills, but no running water. GET THERE: About 45 minutes northwest of Knoxville, the Obed is most easily accessed by way of TN-62, which cuts through the town of Lancing.

National Seashores focus on the preservation of natural values while at the same time providing water-oriented recreation. CAPE LOOKOUT NATIONAL SEASHORE

North Carolina Often overlooked by Cape Hatteras to the north, Cape Lookout National Seashore stretches for 55 miles over the course of three undeveloped barrier islands—North and South Core Banks and Shackleford Banks. Situated in the southernmost half of North Carolina’s Outer Banks, the seashore’s history is fraught with

shipwrecks and war, hurricanes and lifesavers. Exploring the islands now is literally like walking back in time—the remnants of Portsmouth Village, a once-bustling hotbed of mariners and surfmen, still stand today, as do the structures surrounding the Cape Lookout lightstation. Hike the trails on Harkers Island, where the Cape Lookout Visitor’s Center is located. The trails are short, but rich in diversity and history. As you wind through maritime forest and marsh, keep an eye out for waterfowl. If you want to see the seashore the way an old-time mariner might have, grab a boat and hit the water. You can launch straight from the Visitor’s Center at Shell Point and explore the 112 miles of uninhabited shoreline to your heart’s content. Of course, no trip to Cape Lookout is complete without a tour of the lighthouse. It’s a strenuous outing, and even experienced paddlers will want to do some research on the

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FIND SANDY SOLITUDE AT CAPE LOOKOUT NATIONAL SEASHORE.

tidal patterns here. For all the effort, though, paddlers may catch sight of pelicans, ibis, egrets, and even stingrays, dolphins, and sea turtles. Not to mention the lighthouse itself, which is open to the public. As you pass by Shackleford Banks, keep your eyes peeled for the wild horse population that has inhabited the island for over 400 years. Pitch a tent and post up on the beach. Think open night sky, gentle roar of waves crashing along the shoreline, faint breeze blowing in the low-lying marsh. Pretty picturesque, right? Also, pretty sandy. So for those who prefer slightly more refined lodging, check out the cabins at Long Point on North Core Banks and Great Island on South Core Banks. Car camping is also permitted for four-wheel drive vehicles from March through November on North and South Core Banks. STAY:

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THERE IS NO AWA AWAY Y. Y. If only there were a magical place we could send all our garbage, where it would never come back to haunt us. Sadly, this “away” doesn’t exist. Nobody understands this better than our National Parks. Each year, visitors add over 100 million pounds of trash to our nation’s landfills. Despite this, there is reason to celebrate. Over a decade ago, Subaru became the first U.S. auto manufacturer to become zero landfill, and now, in collaboration with the National Park Service and the National Parks Conservation Association, Subaru is leveraging that same environmental expertise to help the parks get to zero, too. It won’t be easy, but with your help, we believe we can make sure these crown jewels of America are gleaming for generations to come.

Get involved, and see the ongoing documentary series at subaru.com/environment.

View our online state parks guide!

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Introducing Georgia State Parks, Hidden Gems. Your chance to see the undiscovered side of Georgia State Parks and Historic Sites. From a ranger-led hike to the Marble Mine at “Sloppy” Floyd State Park, to finding the Prohibition Era Moonshine Truck at Amicalola Falls, you don’t want to miss these once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Visit GaStateParks.org/HiddenGems to sign up and plan your visit. Act quickly, because many of these events are limited. Book your stay today!

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GET THERE: The three barrier islands are only accessible by boat, so paddle yourself across or hop on a ferry. Passenger ferries leave from the communities of Harkers Island, Beaufort, Morehead City, and Ocracoke, N.C., and the ferries from Davis and Atlantic, N.C., can transport passengers as well as vehicles.

Generally, a National Park contains a variety of resources and encompasses large land or water areas to help provide adequate protection of the resources. CONGAREE NATIONAL PARK

South Carolina Since gaining national park status in 2003, Congaree is quickly turning the minds of naysayers who see swamps as nothing more than dark, mosquito-infested mires. That’s probably because Congaree really isn’t a swamp—it’s a floodplain that floods roughly 10 times per year. The park’s namesake the Congaree River borders the 22,000-acre swath of forest to the south, but an intricate maze of creeks and intermittent streams take visitors right through the heart of the largest contiguous tract of oldgrowth bottomland hardwoods in the country. You’ll want to bring a pair of binoculars for this trip. Birders can spend the day taking in the sights and diverse vegetation of the 11.7-mile Kingsnake Trail, which nears Cedar Creek. Barred owls, wood ducks, and various species of woodpeckers are commonly seen and heard throughout all seasons. But to get the full experience of Congaree, you’ll need to BYOB (bring your own boat). Put in at Banister’s Bridge and take the Cedar Creek Canoe Trail, which winds for 15 miles past bald cypress trees and Spanish moss so thick, you’ll think you’re on the set of Jurassic Park. The binoculars will come in handy as you search for the champion Loblolly pine, which stands 167 feet tall.

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STAY: Ditch the bed and air conditioning and be at one with the elements! The park offers two designated places to camp, Longleaf and Bluff Campgrounds, which are primitive even by campground standards. Longleaf has access to vault toilets, but neither campground has running water. Backcountry camping is free to visitors, but the swampy conditions can make it hard to find someplace dry to pitch a tent…so bring a hammock! GET THERE: About a two-hour’s drive from major metropolitan hubs like Spartanburg, S.C., Charlotte, N.C., Charleston, S.C., and Augusta, Ga., Congaree is some 20 miles southeast of Columbia, S.C., via SC-48.

MAMMOTH CAVE NATIONAL PARK

Kentucky It’s big, it’s dark, and it’s a little weird, but so goes the history of Mammoth Cave, the world’s longest cave system. At over 400 miles, the vastness of Mammoth’s system continues to expand year after year. Its vaulted chambers and complex labyrinths piqued the interest of Native Americans, miners, and musicians alike. Relics from times long gone still stand in the cave, like ancient graffiti, abandoned mining equipment, and stone huts used to house tuberculosis patients. History, culture, and natural wonder, Mammoth Cave is all of that and then some. Get down and dirty with a Wild Cave Tour of Mammoth. You’ll be crawling, squeezing, and climbing to all of those hard-to-reach places the other guided tours talk about. The park is also home to more than just the Mammoth Cave system. Nearly 84 miles of trails in the backcountry, frontcountry, and Visitor’s Center areas weave throughout the park. Mountain bikers will enjoy the rugged 9.1-mile Big Hollow Trail,

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SUNLIGHT FILTERS THROUGH GIANT BALD CYPRESS TREES IN CONGAREE NATIONAL PARK. photo by STEVEN McNAMARA A P R I L 2 01 6 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

which is divided into beginner and intermediate-advanced friendly loops. STAY: The Mammoth Cave Hotel

is an obvious choice for those who prefer the comforts of home, but the park also has a number of historic cottages and three convenient campgrounds.

Just a half hour northeast of Bowling Green, Ky., Mammoth Cave is most easily accessed by taking the Mammoth Cave Parkway off of I-65. GET THERE:

Various titles—National Military Park, National Battlefield Park, National Battlefield Site, and National Battlefield—have been used for areas associated with American military history. CHICKAMAUGA AND CHATTANOOGA NATIONAL MILITARY PARK

Georgia and Tennessee After more than 12,000 years of Native American presence, these two sites saw some of the hardest fighting during the Civil War, largely due to the fact that Chattanooga held a special appeal to both the Union and Confederacy—the city served as a 44

key rail center and gateway into the heart of the Confederacy. Though the Union was initially forced to retreat after the Battle of Chickamauga, the North’s soldiers eventually succeeded in driving the Confederates south out of Chattanooga and into Georgia. Hike or ride (your horse, not a bike) through the park’s 40+ miles of trails. What better way to make history fun, and tangible, than by walking through the battlefields and historic sites yourself. Cannons, monuments, and literature are sprinkled throughout the trails, helping you make the most of your visit. The Lookout Mountain Battlefield is also a great place to take a stroll. The trails here lead visitors past iconic overlooks of the valley below. Some of these same overlooks can be seen in images shot during the Civil War.

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STAY: Though

there is no available lodging on park grounds, Captain’s Quarters Bed & Breakfast Inn and Battleview Bed & Breakfast are a stone’s throw away in Fort Oglethorpe, Ga.

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Cross the border into Georgia via US-27S from Chattanooga. The park is less than 10 miles from downtown. GET THERE:

MANASSAS NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD PARK

largest protected grasslands in northern Virginia, that Manassas was selected as an Audubon Important Bird Area.

Virginia Though most may recognize Manassas as the setting for two Confederate victories during the Civil War, this national battlefield now serves the public as more than a tribute to the history that took place here. In Prince William County, where urbanization is rapidly spreading, the park’s 5,000 acres are surprisingly unspoiled, more so than most anywhere else in the Culpeper Basin. The meadows, woodlands, and streams are home to 168 bird, 26 mammal, 23 reptile, and 19 amphibian species. Despite the fact that Washington, D.C., is just 30 minutes away, this small park offers a refuge and migratory bird rest stop, so to speak, for redheaded woodpeckers and ruby-throated hummingbirds. In fact, it is because of the park’s grasslands, which are some of the

PLAY: Hike along the Stone Bridge Loop Trail to get a taste for the park’s biodiversity. Between the Eastern White Pine, the Virginia Pine and Eastern Red Cedar, Piedmont Swamp, and Piedmont Bottomland forests, this chunk of the park is truly unique. At 1.3 miles, it won’t take you all day to hike the trail, but the multitude of flora and fauna here is not to be missed. Once you’ve finished your tour of the natural assets at Manassas, follow the First Manassas Loop or the Second Manassas Loop to learn more about the battles’ history. Each loop is paired with its own app for details regarding the engagements. STAY: While the park does not offer lodging or camping onsite, the Manassas Junction Bed & Breakfast is just a 15-minute drive away. Its close proximity to Old Town

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Manassas and the Manassas Museum will keep in theme with your historical tour of northern Virginia. GET THERE: No matter if you come from I-66 or I-95, you’ll eventually land on Route 234. The park is just over 30 miles west of the nation’s capital.

National Historic Parks are commonly areas of greater physical extent and complexity than national historic sites. CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO CANAL

Maryland, West Virginia, and District of Columbia Originally constructed as a means of increasing trade and job opportunities throughout the Potomac River Valley, the Chesapeake and Ohio (C&O) Canal’s function as a trade route came to an end in 1924, but its towpath stands as testament to the period of innovation characteristic of the late 19th and early 20th century. Stretching for 184.5 miles from Washington, D.C., to Cumberland, Md., the towpath is a recreational mecca for bicyclists, hikers, and even paddlers, though the rewatered sections of the canal are few and far between. Bike the C&O Canal in a day, if you’re in the mood for a challenge. The unofficial record holders for cycling all 184.5 miles of the towpath are, supported, 11 hours and 41 minutes, and unsupported, 12 hours and 36 minutes. For those who would rather take the time to stop and smell the roses, the trip can easily be accomplished in less than a week, depending on your mileage. Near the beginning of the towpath at mile 14, you’ll cross Great Falls, one of the most breathtaking sights along the C&O Canal. Bring a camera! STAY: Go light by eating and sleeping in the towns you cross, or lug food and gear with you and utilize the numerous campgrounds along the way. There are 30 hiker-biker campgrounds located roughly every eight miles along the canal, with PLAY:

a limit to one night’s stay per trip. Riders dreaming of a bed and a shower can find it at two hostels en route—Washington International Youth Hostel at mile 0 and Harpers Ferry Youth Hostel at mile 59. GET THERE: A number of access points exist along the C&O Canal, the primary ones being Visitor’s Centers in Washington, D.C., Potomac, Brunswick, Sharpsburg Pike, Williamsport, Hancock, and Cumberland, Md. Check out nps.gov for directions on the access point nearest you. Originally, National Recreation Areas in the park system were units surrounding reservoirs impounded by dams built by other federal agencies. GAULEY RIVER NATIONAL RECREATION AREA

West Virginia Whitewater paddlers around the world rank the Gauley River high on their list of top river destinations, but what is it about this West Virginia river that has so enamored the paddling community? Is it the dramatic gorge and exposed cliff lines carved away by the river? Is it the rowdy, big water, high-volume rapids that drop 668 feet over the course of 28 miles? Is it the quiet feeling that overcomes you as you float downstream of Sweet’s Falls, just you and your crew and not another paddler in sight (unless, of course, you’re paddling during Gauley Fest weekend)? It’s all of that, and then some, that make the Gauley River one of the best in the world. Be prepared to get wet on this wild and wonderful adventure. The Gauley River season begins the first weekend after Labor Day and continues for six weekends. For experienced boaters, both the Lower and Upper sections of the Gauley are packed with consistent, big-wave fun. Playboaters will find plenty of on-the-fly and eddy-service waves

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and holes to surf. Diagonal Ledges on the Lower Gauley is a popular spot to stop, play, and break for lunch. Only in town for a day? Marathon the upper, middle, and lower all in one fell swoop. Visitors with a knack for adventure but no technical whitewater skills can enlist the services of a local raft company to guide the experience for them. Anglers should be sure to visit the Gauley in the spring and fall when the trout, smallmouth bass, walleye, and muskellunge populations swim aplenty. You’ll find most of the river rats posted up at Gauley Tailwaters Campground during the season, eagerly awaiting the water. While backcountry camping is allowed throughout the recreation area, much of the land is privately owned, either by raft companies or individuals. Be respectful of private property when camping. STAY:

About 90 miles due west of West Virginia’s capital, Charleston, the closest town to the Gauley River is Summersville. No matter which way you’re coming from, you’ll eventually hop off US-19 onto Route 129 where a number of river access points can be reached. GET THERE:

National Preserves were established primarily for the protection of certain resources. LITTLE RIVER CANYON NATIONAL PRESERVE

Alabama Nestled in the northeastern corner of Alabama, Little River Canyon is one of southern Appalachia’s greatest hidden gems. The river itself is unique in that it forms and flows for nearly its entire length on top of a mountain. This ecosystem nurtures some 1,069 vascular plant species, not to mention 145 species of birds, 30 species of mammals, 74 species of reptiles and amphibians, and 47 species of fishes. Yet for all of its natural diversity,

at its core, Little River Canyon is a recreational Shangri-la for kayakers and climbers who don’t need a guidebook to find adventure. The high-quality sandstone in the preserve is steep and often overhanging, which means the routes here are the hardest of the hard. In fact, less than one percent of the routes are easier than a 5.11. Bring an extra set of guns (the ones attached to your shoulders) if you plan on climbing here. There is no formal guidebook for climbing in the canyon, nor will you find any of the routes on Mountain Project, so be prepared to learn about the climbing here the old fashioned by way—by winning over the locals. Established hiking trails are also limited here, save for what the kayakers and climbers have trampled down over the years. Paddling the Little River Canyon will feel like a first descent no matter how many times you navigate its class III-V rapids. The upper section, affectionately deemed by the locals as “The Suicide Section,” features a 30-foot waterfall, rock gardens, tight slots, and everything you love—and hate—about steep creeks. The lower section, however, is a classic, a jewel of a run that every intermediate and advanced paddler should add to their list.

PLAY:

There is no camping allowed within the preserve, but nearby DeSoto State Park offers everything from cabins and chalets to a campground. STAY:

GET THERE: The entrance to Little River Canyon is about an hour south of Chattanooga by way of I-59.

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NEXT 100 T H E F U T U R E O F N AT I O N A L PA R K S National parks face serious challenges. How can we help protect them for another century? Here’s what you need to know and how you can help.

by DANIELLE TAYLOR

little bit of magic happens each summer in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. In a handful of wooded areas in and around the park, one species of firefly puts on a fascinating show of synchronous flashing, with all of the male Photinus carolinus lightning bugs blinking on and off in unison. The mesmerizing phenomenon lasts each warm evening for maybe two weeks, then fades away until the following summer. Unsurprisingly, the spectacle has attracted a lot of public attention, and what was once a little-known secret has become a major event for which thousands show up each year to witness the display. However, the magic may be threatened by the very people who come to revel in the fireflies’ glory. With the park’s largest and most consistent display happening in the popular Elkmont Campground, park officials have

taken measures to reduce visitor impact on these unique creatures. They’ve restricted auto transport to the area and implemented a ticketed shuttle service that limits the number of visitors each night. They require all flashlights to be covered with red or blue cellophane so visitors don’t disrupt the fireflies’ flash patterns. They also stress the importance of staying on trails to minimize foot traffic across the ground from which the insects emerge. However, says Dana Soehn, public affairs representative for the park, “People want to go out in the middle of it all and surround themselves in the experience. They may not realize they might step on the fireflies and kill them before they have the chance to mate,” threatening the rare insect’s survival. In the grand scheme of things, the continued existence of one species of firefly is hardly the National Park

Service’s biggest priority, but this example is just one of many that show the challenges park staff face every day in their stewardship of America’s public lands. Extrapolate this to the more than 84 million acres under the NPS umbrella managed by just 22,000 employees (many of whom are temporary or seasonal) and factor in additional threats like climate change, unavoidably deferred maintenance, rampant invasive species and more, and it’s a wonder America’s Best Idea has survived as long as it has.

LOOKING BACK On August 25, 1916, President Herbert Hoover signed the National Park Service Organic Act, creating the National Park Service as a new bureau under the Department of the Interior. This year, we celebrate the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service’s creation and reflect

photo by STEVEN McBRIDE

on how far America has come in the protection and advancement of public lands. Furthermore, we recognize the precedent set for the rest of the world. Yellowstone, established nearly 50 years before the National Park Service in 1872, was the world’s very first national park. Now, more than 100 nations oversee roughly 1,200 national parks or their equivalent. The 1916 act that created the U.S. park service initially protected 35 national parks and monuments. Today, our national parks system manages 410 sites in all 50 states and the District of Columbia as well as American territories around the world. Last year, 305 million visitors came to national parks in the United States. But at this pivotal moment, while looking back at the accomplishments that got us here, the park service also looks ahead at the challenges

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of the future. So should we as the Americans who have collectively inherited this incredible backyard of shared riches. Threats encroach on the parks from every angle, from climate change physically affecting the landscape of the parks to diseasecarrying animals lurking just outside the borders to political shifts of the wind that deprioritize public lands come budget time. However, as voters, consumers, business people and users of the parks, we have significant power to make positive change for the next 100 years and beyond.

COMBATING CLIM ATE CHA NGE According to the National Park Service web site, “Responding to climate change is the greatest challenge facing the National Park Service today.” Nowhere is this more evident than in Glacier National Park in northern Montana. In 1850, the park’s current area contained approximately 150 glaciers. Today, only 25 shrunken glaciers remain, and scientists predict the park’s last glaciers in the park will be gone in less than 15 years due to increased atmospheric warming. Climate change has also caused long-standing park facilities in Alaska to sink due to thawing permafrost, and increased temperatures out west have caused recent wildfire seasons to last longer than ever before. Furthermore, sea level rise due to melting polar ice and thermal expansion threatens the very existence of many low-lying coastal national park sites, such as Assateague Island National Seashore. The list goes on. Last April, President Barack Obama visited Everglades National Park in Florida and spoke on the issue of global warming. “Here in the Everglades, you can see the effect of a changing climate. As sea levels rise, salty water from the ocean flows inward. And this harms freshwater wildlife, which endangers

a fragile ecosystem. The saltwater flows into aquifers, which threatens the drinking water of more than 7 million Floridians … In places like this…you do not have time to deny the effects of climate change.” In Shenandoah National Park, park officials confirm climate change poses the biggest ongoing threat to the park. Researchers have documented continued increases in stream temperatures, and they’ve witnessed habitat shifts of animal species that are particularly sensitive to surrounding conditions. Sally Hurlbert, an interpretive park ranger and acting management assistant at Shenandoah, notes that park salamanders serve as indicator species for climate change. Data indicates that the endangered Shenandoah salamander, which only lives inside the borders of the park at elevations of 2,500 feet or higher, is retreating to the highest mountain peaks in search of cooler climes that support their specific habitat needs. “Eventually,” Hurlbert says, “they’ll run out of places to go and won’t be able to survive the changing conditions.” The potential loss of this one animal would by itself have a ripple effect on the Shenandoah ecosystem, but it would only be a precursor to many more negative changes to come. Increased warming also poses significant problems for Great Smoky Mountains National Park, which gets most of its vital 55 to 85 inches of rain each year in the form of a fine mist. As temperatures rise, more of this mist will evaporate before reaching the ground, significantly reducing critical moisture levels throughout the park that sustain plant and animal life. Diminished rainfall throughout the Smokies also threatens the water supply source for much of North and South Carolina, Tennessee and Georgia. Furthermore, increased temperatures and reduced streamflows endanger the survival of many fish species in the area, which provide vital food sources for many animals through the park.

THREATS TO PL A NTS Climate change likely also contributes to a biological threat within the park. Hemlock wooly adelgids, which have killed 95 percent of Shenandoah’s hemlock trees since 1988, can’t tolerate deep freezes, but the park’s recent series of mild winters have allowed more insects to survive. A 2009 study by the U.S. Forest Service found that the accelerated pace with which hemlock wooly adelgids kill trees in southern Appalachia rapidly alters the carbon cycles of the damaged forests and drastically reduces their critical ability to absorb atmospheric carbon. The hemlock wooly adelgid and its cousin, the balsam wooly adelgid, posed the largest insect threats to Shenandoah and Great Smoky Mountains National Parks in the 20th century and continue to kill trees. But today, the ruinous emerald ash borer looms as one of the scariest threats. Shenandoah biologists just confirmed its presence in 2013 after several years of efforts to prevent its arrival, but so far, Great Smoky Mountains National Park has largely kept the insect at bay. Last year, Smokies officials implemented a strict ban on any incoming firewood that hadn’t been heat-treated to kill any burrowing insects. Unfortunately, Great Smoky Mountains National Park has fallen victim to the highly destructive Asian longhorn beetle, which infests more than 30 host tree species. In addition to insect species endangering plants, non-native plant species have also disrupted the natural ecosystem and displaced native species that now have to fight for survival. In Shenandoah, wavyleaf basketgrass, ornamental stiltgrass, and mile-a-minute weed choke out other native ground-level plants, and oriental bittersweet vines strangle to death the host trees they climb. Fast-growing princess trees and trees of heaven also inhibit the growth of other plants. In the Smokies, roughly

300 of the park’s 1500 flowering species aren’t native to the area. Here, kudzu, princess trees, mimosas, and garlic mustard edge out native species. “The threats we’re faced with now, you can’t avoid them just by drawing a park boundary on the map,” says Soehn. “These invasive species are windblown, they’re animal-carried, they come in on firewood.” Hurlbert adds that even long-distance hikers on the Appalachian Trail may unintentionally transport seeds that stick to their clothes and packs, spreading destructive species up and down the Appalachian corridor.

THREATS TO A NIM ALS In the Smokies, feral hogs create the most destruction as they root through vulnerable landscapes and eat just about everything they come across, including a number of endangered species like the Jordan’s salamander. Rainbow and brown trout in both the Smokies and Shenandoah National Park threaten native brook trout. These fish and swine alike were introduced in the early 1900s as game for sportsmen, but they’ve overrun their habitats. Acid rain, caused by air pollution from coal-fired power plants to the west, strongly alters the pH levels in the rivers and soils of both parks, threatening salamanders, fish, and other vulnerable species. During part of the growing season in the Smokies, clouds enveloping high-elevation forests have pH levels as low as 2.0, the same acidity level as lemon juice. Acidified streams influence fish diversity, killing less-hardy species and harming those that can survive. Furthermore, diseases affecting

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animals in and around the parks, such as the white-nose fungus now plaguing bats in the eastern U.S., have caused mass die-offs and complicated recreational access in certain areas, creating a new set of problems for park officials. Whitenose syndrome, first discovered in New York during the winter of 2006-2007, has now spread to nearly all eastern U.S. states and Canadian provinces. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service estimates roughly six million bats have died so far, and some caves have experienced mortality rates of 100 percent. Humans can inadvertently carry the disease from one cave to another or disrupt roosting infected bats with their presence, causing the bats to flee to other caves and worsen the spread. In response, many eastern caves and mines, including caves in Great Smoky Mountains National Park’s Cades Cove area and mines in the park’s White Oaks Valley, have been permanently closed for recreation. Near Shenandoah, chronic wasting disease has been observed in deer within 10 miles of the park. This neurological condition greatly resembles mad-cow disease and causes starvation and altered behavior in deer, ultimately hastening their death. It spreads through contact, making high-density deer areas like Big Meadows especially susceptible to transmission once infected deer arrive there. If they are detected within five miles of the park, officials may be forced to enact a lethal culling to protect animals within the park’s boundaries.

FUNDING CHALLENGES In addition to forces threatening the parks’ natural landscape, budgetary restrictions limit park employees’ abilities to properly manage the natural resources and park facilities for which they are held responsible. The NPS inventory totals more than 70,000 individual facility assets such as visitor centers, bridges and trails,

and virtually every park has projects that have been delayed due to lack of funding. In early February, the agency reported a FY 2015 deferred maintenance backlog of $11.93 billion. Leesa Brandon, public information officer for the Blue Ridge Parkway, cites deferred maintenance as the parkway’s most significant problem, and for good reason—2015 statistics calculate more than $516.6 million in deferred maintenance for this single park unit, more than four percent of the systemwide total. With nearly 3,000 asset locations ranging from trails to wastewater systems along the 469-mile route, there’s a lot to maintain, especially considering that many original structures have been in place for more than 80 years. In addition to fixing potholes, replacing crumbling picnic tables and making building repairs, park staff work with arborists to address view obstructions and clear trees blocking the beautiful vistas so critical to the parkway experience. To complicate matters for parks nationwide, funding systems already in place have been endangered by political gridlock. Last year, Congress allowed the 50-year-old Land and Water Conservation Fund (LWCF) to expire for the first time in its history, jeopardizing the thousands of outdoor recreation projects that depend on it for financial support. This program, which enjoys wide bipartisan approval, is funded by offshore oil and gas drilling revenues, not taxpayer dollars, and it has been used to protect more than 2.2 million acres of National Park Service land since 1965. Fortunately, Congress temporarily reauthorized LWCF last December, protecting it for three more years. But even with that victory, the program still suffers from chronic underfunding. Only twice in 50 years has Congress fully funded LWCF at its promised level, and in recent years, the program has only received about photo by WILL MILFORD A P R I L 2 01 6 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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one-third of the funding Congress said it would allocate.

DIRECT HUM A N IMPACTS While balancing all of the complications listed above, park staff must also deal with the challenges of increased visitation. With a record 305 million visitors in 2015 and more expected for this Centennial year, this is a good trend for public engagement and education in the parks, but it’s nevertheless one that comes with stresses of its own related to properly managing the resulting human impacts. One of the National Park Service’s top goals is to help connect visitors to the natural environment, which sometimes involves making tough decisions. The Smokies' firefly showcases a regular dilemma park employees have to weigh. Do they take advantage of an exciting natural occurrence to help engage visitors with the wonders of the park at the possible expense of future generations being able to enjoy the phenomenon as well, or do they cordon off the area and protect the fireflies by removing as much human interference as possible? Questions like this go to the heart of the preservation vs. conservation debate, and the right answers aren’t always easy to determine. “The park service is trying to get the next generation and a more diverse group of people interested in the park, so increased visitation is great, but it’s hard to reach everyone to share the value of the park,” says Maggie Blake, an interpretive ranger in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Furthermore, the low staffto-visitor ratio makes it difficult to ensure park visitors get vital information. “People don’t realize they’re bringing in invasives, like in infested firewood,” says Blake, “and they might not understand the effects of things like littering and going offtrail.” In Shenandoah, human impacts

on the popular Old Rag trail have made park officials consider restricting access. “Lots of people just aren’t being good stewards on Old Rag,” says Hurlbert. “Some hikers leave trash and trample plants. We’ve considered limiting people on the trail via a permitting system in an effort to preserve and protect the environment.” She notes that the park has had to close off other areas to protect some rare species on rock outcrops, and while the decision to ban humans from enjoying part of their park wasn’t ideal, the results are undeniable— plant species protected by this measure have bounced back. Limiting access on Old Rag may be the best way to preserve the trail for a long future.

WHAT YOU CA N DO The above list of threats may seem insurmountable, but you can do a lot to respond to these challenges. Plenty of organizations aid the parks, and individual efforts can really add up. First and foremost, “COME to the parks!” urges Hurlbert. In the Smokies, Soehn concurs. “We’re trying to develop users to be supporters and advocates,” she says. “We want people to know us better and see a connection to the Smokies, and we want to engage people in the full system of public lands.” When you visit, make an effort to reduce your footprint and impact. You can help limit the spread of invasive species by cleaning footwear, clothing, and recreational gear between visits to different areas. Familiarize yourself with Leave No Trace principles (lnt.org), and take the “take only pictures, leave only footprints” motto to heart. Pack out any trash you pack in, stay on trails, and be respectful A P R I L 2 01 6 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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of other humans and wildlife also enjoying the parks. Also, respect rules like firewood restrictions, which are measures put in place to ensure your continued enjoyment of the parks for years to come. If you enjoy giving back of your time and talents, consider volunteering. “We have lots of weeds to pull!” says Hurlbert. The Volunteers-in-Parks program connects roughly 221,000 Americans each year with critical park programs where they can help. Volunteers contribute as trail maintenance crews, invasive species surveyors, visitor center assistants, campground hosts and more. Best of all, volunteers who record 250 hours of service can earn a free pass to more than 2,000 federal recreation sites. If you want to support the parks from the comfort of your home, consider writing to your congressional representatives to stress your support as a constituent for the parks. Often, public lands needs get lost in the mix of all the other concerns elected officials have to weigh, so voter feedback and advocacy help them prioritize. “We need to help decisionmakers understand how valuable and important these parks are to all,” says Fran Mainella, director of the National Park Service from 2001 to 2006. Funding is always an issue as we never have enough dollars to do all that is needed, but the relevancy issue is most important. Only if our parks are meaningful and relevant to all will that support happen." Financially, you can support the parks by joining or donating to affiliated nonprofit groups like the Friends of the Blue Ridge Parkway, the Shenandoah National Park Trust, Friends of the Great Smoky Mountains, and other organizations that aid the protection and preservation of the parks by raising funds and public awareness and providing volunteers. As Congressional funding for national parks has decreased, these publicprivate partnerships have become essential.

You can also contribute financially to the parks by ordering a park license plate, which showcases your park support to other drivers and collectively raises millions for park initiatives in each state. Additionally, patronizing private businesses that help pay for park programs and operations trickles down to park improvements. Perhaps the most important thing you can do to support the parks is to bring your kids to experience them. It seems simple, but fun weekend trips spent wading through rivers and camping in the woods are the best way to help instill an early conservation ethic and appreciation for nature in the next generation of park stewards. Think back to the experiences that got you hooked on nature, and open up those opportunities for your children, nieces and nephews, students and more. More than anything else, this will help ensure public lands remain relevant and important assets for years to come.

A BRIGHT FUTURE Despite the challenges, there’s plenty of hope for the National Park Service’s second 100 years and beyond. As more and more people engage with the parks and learn how to support them, we create more and more public land stewards for the future who will preserve the legacy we’ll leave. On a regional scale, even small efforts can ensure habitat conditions in which plants and animals will thrive. And for two weeks each summer at a campground in the Smokies, our thoughtful care can help preserve the quiet magic of a forest full of fireflies, together flashing in a united effort to continue inspiring us for many generations to come. A P R I L 2 01 6 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

THE GOODS

0 4 . 16

THE LONG HAUL TOMAS MARENTES PICKS HIS FAVORITE BACKPACKING GEAR FOR MULTIDAY ADVENTURES

THERMAREST NEOAIR XLITE ($129-$189) A good sleeping system outdoors will get you a long way. The NeoAir provides great comfort and insulation, but also has great compression for packing. And it’s very lightweight (12 ounces for a regular).

by GRAHAM AVERILL If you’re a backpacker who likes to count the number of days spent in the backcountry, you’re either going to love or loathe Tomas Marentes. The 25-year-old climber, paddler and backpacker spent 150 days in the field in 2015—close to half a year. Marentes is an instructor for North Carolina Outward Bound, living and working out of its Cedar Rock and Table Rock Bases. During the summer, he works multi-day backpacking and climbing courses through Pisgah National Forest, then transitions to canoe expedition courses during the fall and winter. “Students get to camp, cook, and navigate all together in unique physical environments, like Linville Gorge,” says Marentes, who grew up mostly in Honduras and Peru. “For me the opportunity to help students discover their potential as leaders is a job that is quite fulfilling.” We asked Marentes to detail the five most essential pieces of gear he carries with him on his multi-day backpacking expeditions. Here’s what he came up with.

SEA TO SUMMIT AEROS PILLOW ULTRA LIGHT ($37) With the number of days spent in the field, I’ve learned what I can’t do without. A good pillow goes a long way. The Sea to Summit Aeros pillow offers great comfort with fleece lining for your head. It also provides an easy and adjustable inflating system. And the best part is that it packs into almost nothing, making it easy to put in your pack. 58

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JETBOIL FLASH JAVA KIT ($109.95) Coffee is always a great way to start the day. Jetboil offers fast boiling with little fuel consumption and best of all, the Java kit turns your Jetboil into a French press. The Jetboil Flash holds about one liter, making it ideal to share coffee with my hiking partner or my co-instructor.

MSR DROMLITE BAG ($27) I currently use a two-liter Dromlite. Whether on personal trips or at work, I find the Dromlite meets all my needs. The multi-function cap makes it easy to drink out of and fill up. You can even use it as a hand washing station. The Drom is also an easy addition to a gravity filter system, and it fits inside or outside of your pack.

SEALLINE KODIAK DRY SACK ($33) For the rainy summers of Western North Carolina, I can rest assured that my clothes will be dry at the end of the day with my 15L Kodiak Dry Sack. The Kodiak has a see-through window down the side of the bag making it easy to locate your gear, and a oneway valve that makes compression an easy process. I absolutely must have it on my outings.

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The best way to enjoy Kentucky is outside! Your adventure unfolds with hundreds of hiking trails and sites for camping, thousands of miles of rivers and more than 50 fishing and boating lakes, rafting and canoeing expeditions, caves to be explored and nearly 900,000 acres of national forests. Kentucky state parks offer great home bases as you experience Kentucky’s outdoors. Forty-nine state parks, including 17 resorts with lodging accommodations, blanket the commonwealth. Many of the parks offer numerous soft adventures, and just outside the gates a variety of world-class extreme adventures beckon. Trails in Kentucky come in all shapes and sizes. As pioneers and settlers moved westward in the 19th Century, many traveled to and through Kentucky. Places like the Cumberland Gap and the Wilderness Road were vital to American expansion. Now, these historically significant trails have evolved into a recreational trail system that totals over 12,000 miles. Whether you are looking for a month-long backpacking adventure or a short Sunday afternoon stroll, Kentucky has a trail for you. One way to discover these trails is through the Kentucky Trail Town destinations. These towns are located near or along major trail systems and offer services to visitors. For example, the community of Livingston sits along the state’s longest trail system, the 269-mile Sheltowee Trace National Recreation Trail. Jamestown is the trailhead for the 16 miles of the Cumberland River Paddle Trail. Search trail towns on kentuckytourism.com to find the complete list. Kentucky is the Horse Capital of the World, which means fabulous trail riding for equine enthusiasts. Horse camps across the commonwealth connect horse and rider to some the best trail systems around.

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Those looking to pedal their way around have plenty of options in Kentucky as well. Mountain bikers will find great single track, and road cyclists are sure to enjoy one of the dozen popular paved routes. Meanwhile, southeastern Kentucky is growing into one of the top destinations for ATV and off-road vehicle activities in the country. Thousands of miles have been developed on reclaimed mine lands and forests. The views from atop these popular ATV parks are sure to make you come back again and again. Adventures are happening in Kentucky high above and far below ground as well. From treetop canopy tours and ziplines to the largest cave system in the world at Mammoth Cave National Park near Cave City, there are plenty of ways to explore Kentucky. The Red River Gorge has some of the best climbing routes in the country and attracts thousands of altitude seekers each year. Climb up high or delve down below to truly experience all the adventure in Kentucky. Kentucky has thousands of miles of navigable water flowing through it, with plenty of ways to get out and enjoy a water adventure. Whether you’re looking for a high-adrenaline whitewater rush through the Russell Fork in gorgeous Breaks Interstate Park, or a nice afternoon paddle around one of our excellent lakes, we’ve got more than enough options to get on the water. Anglers will find an abundance of fish to pursue and boaters will discover hidden coves to explore.

If you’re looking for wildlife you’ve come to the right place. Kentucky is home to the largest elk herd east of the Rocky Mountains. More than 360 species of birds flourish in the Bluegrass State. John James Audubon State Park in Henderson is a must-see for those interested in bird identification and observation. Many other types of wildlife such as deer, raccoon, wild turkey and squirrels are seen by guests of our parks. There’s no question Kentucky offers some of the best in outdoor recreation. Many activities require specialized gear or knowledge to be fully enjoyed. Not to worry, though, since outfitters and guide services for all outdoor activities are ready to assist in your adventure. Shuttle services, retail stores, repair shops and gear rental will have you on the trail or in the water in no time. It’s now up to you. Pick your adventure, select your Kentucky destination and let the fun begin. www.kentuckytourism.com

CORBIN, KY WHERE ADVENTURE, HISTORY AND HOSPITALITY AWAIT Located in the outdoor adventure mecca of Kentucky, Corbin is home to Laurel Lake, Cumberland Falls State Park, Daniel Boone National Forest and other natural jewels! Your next outdoor adventure awaits in the peaceful grandeur of southeastern Kentucky. Our natural sanctuaries offer year-round recreation opportunities, including boating, fishing, horseback riding, hiking, canoeing, camping, scuba diving and so much more! corbinkytourism.com

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#TRAVELKY kentuckytourism.com • 1-800-225-TRIP

LAKE CUMBERLAND HOUSEBOAT CAPITAL & BIG FISH MECCA The crystal clear and very deep waters of Lake Cumberland never freeze, so we fish year round! Famous as the Houseboat Capital of the World, we are also famous for our trophy Striped Bass, Crappie, Blue Gill & Walleye. Your next Big Fish Adventure awaits you on Lake Cumberland! Download a Vacation Guide today! lakecumberlandvacation.com

270.866.4304

ASHLAND Birthplace of The Judds and Billy Ray Cyrus, Ashland is located along U.S. 23 Country Music Highway – a mecca for arts and entertainment, family festivals, quilt block murals and much more.

visitashlandky.com

800.377.6249

CARROLLTON, KENTUCKY FROM CITY TO SERENITY Carrollton, Kentucky, is a small river town located at the confluence of the Ohio and Kentucky Rivers. We’re the perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of city life. Carrollton is rich in history and southern hospitality. Come relax at Point Park or explore our many trails and waterways. visitcarrolltonky.org

800.325.4290

ZIP, PADDLE & SADDLE THROUGH HATFIELD-MCCOY FEUD COUNTRY Enjoy an outdoor excursion through the land where the Hatfields & McCoys called home: Pikeville-Pike County, Kentucky. Zipline atop the Pikeville Cut-Through, ride horses through a scenic mountain trail, and kayak down Pikeville’s serene lazy river. tourpikecounty.com/blueridge

800.844.7453

HOUSEBOAT, VACATION & FISHING SPECIALIST!

PADDLE. SADDLE. TREK. SPLASH. SAVOR OUR OUTDOOR SPIRITS!

Experience incredible fishing from smallmouth bass to trout, scuba dive in the crystal-clear water, hike trails to stunning overlooks and play the superb golf course at Dale Hollow Lake State Resort Park.

The Preserve at Shaker Village features Paddle+Yoga Weekends, 40-miles of hiking, biking and horseback trails. Bright Leaf Golf Resort, Big Red Stables, Kentucky River and Herrington Lake. Distillery & wine tours nearby.

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HarrodsburgKY.com

270.864.5890

800.355.9192

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Explore the world’s longest-known cave system then paddle greenways, pedal scenic rural routes, and experience Lost River Cave’s limited “Kayak the Cave” tours. Top off your adventures with Corsair Distillery, White Squirrel Brewery & buzzworthy live music!

Challenge, competition and scenic routes! Register at RedBudRide.com. Also, find Wildcat ATV & Offroad Park, Daniel Boone National Forest - 600 miles of hiking/biking trails. 1300+ Hotels, 300+ Campsites, and 80+ Restaurants right off I-75.

VisitBGKY.com

laurelkytourism.com

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THE SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE! PADDLE FEST & BACKWOODS TRAILS Paddle Fest – 4th Saturday, monthly May thru October! Jenny Wiley State Resort Park with multi-use trails, fishing, boating and campground. StoneCrest Golf Course – 18-hole championship course! PrestonsburgKy.org

800.844.4704

BIKE, PADDLE, CAMP, EXPLORE Our small-town atmosphere and the natural beauty of Green River Lake will quickly captivate you! Explore over 50 miles of trails for mountain biking, hiking, horseback riding and paddling. Experience the thrill of water skiing on Green River Lake or relax with a day at the beach. Enjoy your stay in a floating cabin, lakeside condos or choose from over 650 campsites.

www.visitcampbellsvilleky.com

800.738.4179

SMILE, YOU’RE ON LAKE CUMBERLAND! From tubing and kayaking to rafting and skiing, there are so many adventures that await you on the smooth, beautiful waters of Lake Cumberland. Add camping and trail hikes for an incredible weekend getaway! lakecumberlandtourism.com

800.642.6287

SOMERSET-PULASKI COUNTY CVB LAKE CUMBERLAND TOURISM

BEER CHEESE TRAIL & FESTIVAL AND OUTDOOR ADVENTURE! The Birthplace of Beer Cheese hosts the Annual Beer Cheese Festival June 11 - live music, beer garden, beer cheese samples, and arts & crafts! Nature preserve, KY River kayaking and nearby Red River Gorge & ziplining. TourWinchester.com

800.298.9105

FIND YOUR ADVENTURE IN WINCHESTER WITH OUR GETAWAY GIFT PACKAGE FOR TWO!

TourWinchester.com

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GIFT PACKAGE FOR TWO THAT INCLUDES ADMISSION:

• 2 nights’ lodging • Tour of Ale-8-One Bottling Plant • Free Bike Rental to pedal Winchester’s Historic Alleyways • Bluegrass Heritage Museum • Blackfish Bison Farm

• Guided Canoe/Kayak Rental from Three Tree’s Canoe • Guided Tour & Hike at Lower Howard’s Creek Nature Preserve • $200 in gift vouchers for the Beer Cheese Trail • Winchester Swag Bag

Enter the Unbridled KY Getaways from April 1 – May 15, 2016 To enter, and for contest rules, please go to: www.blueridgeoutdoors.com/contests

Pre-order tickets at:

www.southriverexpo.orgStu Apte

Presenters away from the Expo area.

IGFA Hall of Famer, fly rod world record Chuck holder, and Kraft TycoonTycoon Tackle Tackle Prostaff. Pro Staff,

PRESENTERS Presenters Stu Apte

IGFA Hall of Famer, fly rod world record holder, and STU APTE Tackle Tycoon Prostaff.

WEEKEND OF APRIL 23RD & 24TH

Greg Senyo Of Steelhead Alley OutfitPAT DORSEY ters has been fishing and guiding for 20+ years.

9 am - 5 pm both days $12 admission at the door Under 16 yrs. FREE Pre-order tickets at: www.southriverexpo.com

WILL TUREK

well-known Smallmouth Greg Senyo CHUCK KRAFT guide, author, Of Steelhead Alley Outfit& fly designer.

ters has been fishing and guiding for Will Turek 20+ years. Owner of

GREG SENYO

MILES Matt MATT Miles

He has been guiding for over 17 years. He is also active in the Skyline Chapter PARROT ORTHODONTICS | BLUE RIDGE ORAL SURGERY | VILLAGE GARDEN CENTER of Trout Unlimited.will be The South River Fly Fishing Expo, hosted by Destination Downtown Waynesboro, SPONSORED BY:

Chuck Kraft

Tycoon Tackle Pro Staff, well-known Smallmouth Pat Dorsey guide, author, Pat is South& fly designer. west Field

Editor of Fly Fisherman Will Turek Owner of Magazine and Midwest Spey a noted and is a Fedauthor.

Pat Dorsey Pat is Southwest Field Editor of Fly Fisherman Magazine and a noted author.

eration of Fly Fishers Certified Casting Parrott Orthodontics Instructor. Blue Ridge Oral Surgery Village Garden Center www.traildays.us

MAY 13-15

Midwest Spey and is a FedMatt Miles eration of Fly He has been Fishers guiding forCertiover Parrott Orthodontics Casting 17fied years. He is alsoInstructor. active in the Blue Ridge Oral Surgery Skyline Chapter Village Garden Center

of TroutSHOP.BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM Unlimited.

held on the banks of the South River Delayed Harvest Area. Attendees will have the opportunity to meet and learn from fly fishing professionals including our featured presenters and many local and regional guides and fly fishing retailers. The South River Delayed Harvest area is one of the best fly fishing destinations in Virginia and great fly fishing for Brown and Rainbow Trout is only steps away from the Expo area.

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WHY WE JUMP

WHAT INSPIRES BASE JUMPERS TO MAKE THE LEAP— AND SHOULD THEY HAVE MORE PLACES TO PLUNGE? by MATT DHILLON

A P R I L 2 01 6 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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t was a sunny day in front of Bollos Cafe, the front porch of Blacksburg, Va., and with reptilelike relief, we enjoyed the strong sun of a cold month. John Verbeck was trying to describe the feeling of flying to me. For a little over a year he’d been capturing that feeling a few moments at a time by BASE jumping. “When you leave an exit point, nothing else matters,” he said. “For those few seconds, the only thing is this joy of the fall, and once the canopy opens, it’s just this magical—" Here he pauses, trying to find adequate words. “It’s like surfing airwaves.” The world can weigh you down— with gravity, baggage, worries about the past and future. Whenever we feel anchored to possessions or controlled by ambitions, whenever out attention is trapped some place our passion is not, few things can match the liberation of flight. It’s hard for people to see value in BASE jumping. BASE jumpers are labeled by most people as “thrill seekers” and “adrenaline junkies.” It’s an image that ridicules the artistry and discipline of BASE jumping. Non-BASE jumpers view the activity as falling, an out-of-control dance with death in which risk is keeping the rhythm. BASE jumpers view it as flying, a transcendent achievement reached through great effort. “Never put yourself in a position where the only way out is to jump,” Verbeck advises. “Always be willing to say no.” That’s because BASE jumping isn’t about endangering yourself; it’s about choice.

THE FREEDOM If you’ve ever stood at the edge of a cliff or a balcony or a bridge, you’ve felt that there’s a barrier there. You ON PREVIOUS PAGE : A BASE JUMPER SOARS ABOVE THE NEW RIVER GORGE, WEST VIRGINIA, ON BRIDGE DAY photo by MARCUS ELLISON

BASE jumpers are labeled as thrill seekers or adrenaline junkies. It's an image that ridicules the artistry and discipline of BASE jumping. look into the void and you think, “What would happen if I jumped?” There’s a limit that is not just physical, but also self-created. It’s the same barrier between imagination and action that keeps you from speaking up when you see injustice, or that keeps you in your seat when you have a goal or a dream, or that keeps you from saying hi to someone you’re attracted to. It’s something that keeps you in your place, for better or for worse. But we all have a voice that cries out against it. That is the voice I hear getting louder whenever I see someone dive off of a cliff, Verbeck says. On the other side of that barrier there is always the unknown. BASE jumpers always refer to that space over the edge as the unknown, even though most exit points are well researched, rehearsed, and the action carefully visualized before a jump. Why call it the unknown? Part of the reason is because of how fully invested a BASE jumper must be to enter that space. There is no way to probe in front of you and test things out. All of you is committed all at once by gravity. Body control in the air is very important. It’s one of the specialized skills BASE jumpers develop in the 100 skydives that are recommended before beginning to BASE jump. But that form of control is passive. Most of the jumper’s motion is controlled by the environment and natural forces. That makes BASE jumping

a unique, receptive position to be in in relation to the environment. It’s a unique way to interact with a whole environment—not just its features but also the open space between the features.

THE RUSH There is palpable joy and excitement around a jump site. It’s the joy of being alive and the excitement of being attentive to life. On a normal day, you may not notice the texture of stone, the calcium deposits popping up in tiny points, the heaviness of your body on your feet, or the taste of your saliva, but BASE jumping forces you to be awake, focused, and aware. Then, when you pull off something that few people in the world can do, there is the satisfaction of precision in the use of that awareness, moving from intention to action to control.

SAFETY There’s a misconception that BASE jumpers are reckless: they’re not. A reckless BASE jumper would not last long. BASE jumpers are careful. They have a culture of safety between them sustained by mentors and conventional wisdoms that carry the strength of rules. But Marcus Ellison, seasoned BASE jumper and native of Oak Hill, W.Va., thinks we as a society could easily improve the

standard by revising its outlaw status and working together instead. The ban on BASE jumping in national parks especially sets people up for dangerous conditions. Ellison would like to see the sport come further into the open. “I am an advocate for legalization in national parks.” He says in an interview, “I do not want to hide; I shouldn't have to. I pay my taxes; I served in the military; I'm employed and contribute to society in a positive way. I should be allowed to recreate in public lands that were intended for it.” Ellison is also the BASE advisor to the Bridge Day Commission which organizes the annual celebration where BASE jumpers can openly launch from the iconic bridge and into the New River Gorge. The single-span bridge that runs more than 800 feet above the gorge is an ideal resource for BASE jumping. He believes that allowing access to the bridge more often would benefit the nearby town of Fayetteville as much as the sport. Even now, the local economy looks forward to the one day a year that the celebration brings people flocking to the gorge. BASE jumpers have proven that they won’t be deterred by a ban. In spite of arrests in national parks, the parachutes continue to unfurl with loud rushes of air. Whether in the dark or in the daylight, hiding or in the open, people continue to open their wings. The real question is whether or not we will legitimize it.

A P R I L 2 01 6 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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SOUTHEAST SEVEN EDGY HIKES WITH PANORAMIC VIEWS by MELINA COOGAN photo by DEREK DILUZIO

A P R I L 2 01 6 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

hat is it that draws us, as explorers, so viscerally towards wide open spaces? What do we find so compelling about the cliff’s edge, the endless volume of sky that domes the mountaintop and engulfs the spindly tower? Perhaps it’s the rush of endorphins that our bodies release as we peer over the edge, or the satisfaction that accompanies completing a hard physical challenge. Maybe it’s the long-reaching views that appeal to our primitive desire to be fully aware of our surroundings. The landscape of the American Southeast is not renown for its bare rock summits, sheer drop-offs or dizzying heights, but that doesn’t mean they do not exist. The rarity and extraordinary nature of these destinations make them ever more rewarding and awe-inspiring. Here are seven hikes in the Southeast that will provide you with the stomachdropping, heart-racing joy of exposure.

ROUGH RIDGE

BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY, N.C.

What transforms Rough Ridge from a beautiful High-Country ramble to an experience of sublime exposure (and a photographic free-for-all!) are the massive boulders that lie alongside the trail. Scramble to the top of any one of them, and you’ll feel as if you’re standing on the prow of a stone ship, sailing through the sky towards the crooked outline of the Linville Wilderness. The daring can crawl to the edge of any number of granite outcrops, and have the pulsequickening pleasure of dangling their legs into thin air. From the Rough Ridge parking area on the Blue Ridge Parkway, the trail climbs for just over a mile through an alpine landscape of rocks and fragile vegetation. However, this section of mountain crest is part of the 13-mile Tanawah Trail, as well as the Mountains to Sea Trail, allowing you to choose your own adventure when it comes to the duration of your hike.

Breathtaking views of Grandfather Mountain and the Linville Gorge are nearly continuous along the trail, but the most expansive vista can be found at the official summit, a fence-lined granite knob that stands 4,733 above sea level.

TABLE ROCK

PICKENS COUNTY, S.C.

The massive granite dome of Table Rock rises dramatically from the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, in stark contrast to the forested landscape of South Carolina’s Upcountry. One glimpse of the 3,124-foot monolith, and it’s no surprise that the journey up is a relentless, at times grueling climb, but the rewards from the top make every step worth it: soaring views of Ceasar’s Head Lookout, clouds reflected in the Table Rock Reservoir, and the sprawling counties of Greenville and Pickens unfolding in all directions. The Table Rock National Recreational Trail is 3.6 miles long, beginning with a series of footbridges and a stroll through a boulder field,

before the trek begins in earnest. The true summit of Table Rock, flat topped and dense with forest, may feel surprisingly mundane. But as soon as you emerge from the trees and onto the wide expanse of granite, be prepared for your stomach to drop. The edge of the mountain appears gradually as you step forward, the granite rolling gently into sheer, 350-foot cliffs. Use caution, as this subtly has claimed the lives of a few unfortunate souls who wandered just a few innocent steps too far.

CHIMNEY TOPS

GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS, TENN.

Engulfed in forested peaks within the Western Slope of the Great Smoky Mountains, the bare rock summit of Chimney Tops poses an irresistible challenge for any adrenaline-seeking adventurer. The double capstone knobs are composed of folded metamorphic rock, creating a wildly exposed scramble to reach the crown. The allure of this adventure is not found in its altitude, but in the grit and real danger of the final approach that, it bears mentioning, occurs after

VIEWS FROM GRANDFATHER MOUNTAIN NEAR ROUGH RIDGE, N.C.

the trail has officially ended. At 4,724 feet, the airy pinnacles are effectively walled in by the much taller Mount LeConte and Mt. Kephart. In this manner, Chimney Tops feels like a narrow island, suspended in the middle of a rough sea of mountains. The Chimney Tops Trail was recently rebuilt, and now features over 700 stone and log steps, climbing 1700 feet in just under two miles. Your legs will be begging you to call it a day when the terrain finally evens out. The views from the ridgeline are noteworthy, but push on. Reaching the gnarled summit is one of the most impressive experiences you’ll find anywhere in the Smokies.

MCAFEE KNOB

JEFFERSON NATIONAL FOREST, VA.

It’s no secret why McAfee Knob in Roanoke County, Virginia is the most photographed location on the entire Appalachian Trail. The airy overlook on Catawba Mountain

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trailhead. From this outcrop, you can often hear the calls of rafters as they plunge through the rapids below. Just below the first tier of cliffs that make up the Endless Wall Trail, there is a little known trail known to locals as the “Endless Underworld.” A series of ladders, boulders, and tight squeezes through caves leads to the sandstone cliffs where climbers top out. It takes a healthy spirit of adventure, and some steady footwork to navigate this Cliffside obstacle course, but for the serious adventurer, the underworld is well worth a visit.

HAWKSBILL MOUNTAIN

LINVILLE GORGE WILDERNESS, N.C.

provides a brilliant, 270 degree view of the southern Shenandoah Valley. Swaths of pastoral farmland are nestled between the rolling spines of the Ridge-and-Valley Appalachians, while North Mountain and Tinker Cliffs are visible to the West. What makes McAfee Knob such a popular destination is a prominent rock overhang, its narrow ledge extending into thin air. Hikers with a strong constitution can stand at its very edge, basking in the thrill of high exposure and the expansive sensation of being surrounded by sky. While clear weather allows for seemingly endless views, a foggy day can be equally enchanting. Suspended in the clouds at an altitude of 3,197 feet, it appears as if you are sitting at the very edge of the world. Be prepared to earn your epic moment: the route entails 4.4 miles (one way) of steady climbing. By the time you reach the spur to the lookout, you will be more than ready for a rest, and a deep breath at the edge of the precipice.

INDIAN STAIRCASE RED RIVER GORGE, KY.

Best known for a particularly daunting stretch of exposed scrambling, the Indian Staircase is one of the most captivating hikes within Kentucky’s Red River Gorge Geological Area. The trail draws its name from a 200-foot slab of sandstone that’s pitted with shallow footholds, perhaps carved by the Adena people over 1,000 years ago. For those who prefer their trails spiked with adrenaline, climbing the staircase will be the most rewarding portion of your day. While the intimidation factor is high, grippy sandstone and precisely placed footholds will boost your confidence as you ascend into the sky. Be sure to pause and revel in the extraordinary landscape of the Red River Gorge. The staircase is not the only unusual feature of this 3.5 mile hike. Waiting for you on top is an area known as the Council Chamber, a massive rock overhang. Another oddity, the Turtle’s Head, is a protruding stone knob that bears fantastic resemblance to a reptile,

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SUNRISE FROM HAWKSBILL MOUNTAIN IN LINVILLE GORGE, N.C.

although it has succumbed to many would-be sculptors over the years. The Adena Arch, accessible via sidetrail, is also well worth a visit. In other words, the Staircase is only the beginning of your adventures in this sandstone playground.

THE ENDLESS WALL TRAIL NEW RIVER GORGE, W.VA.

One of the most popular short hikes in the New River Gorge, the Endless Wall Trail is also one of the most dangerous. The trail follows the unbroken cliff line of the New River Gorge, with plenty of rock outcrops and vantage points from which to bask in the glory of the sweeping views of the National River and the pristine wilderness that surrounds it. The official trail is a three mile loop, with the final third of a mile on a steep gravel road. Many people prefer to hike out and back to the Diamond Point Lookout, one mile from the

The multi-tiered cliffs on the summit of Hawksbill Mountain comprise one of the most iconic landscapes in the Linville Gorge. One particularly prominent rock shelf that, not surprisingly, resembles a hawk’s bill, provides a thrilling perch on which the daredevil hiker can sit, legs swinging, and fully absorb their surroundings. To hover in space above the rugged Linville Gorge Wilderness, surrounded in sky as the river cuts through the canyon floor 2,000 feet below, is an experience nothing short of dazzling. The 1.5 mile access trail ascends 700 feet through a dense forest of maple, mountain laurel and rhododendron. This is a trail that keeps its cards close: until you emerge onto the granite clearing at the top, there will be little opportunity to preview the soaring views that await. Located on the East rim of the gorge, Hawksbill’s 4,049-foot summit affords one of the farthest-reaching views in the Southeast. The towering, granite-rippled peak of Grandfather Mountain and the distinct profiles of Table Rock and Shortoff Peak dominate the 360 degree panorama, with the Pisgah National Forest unfurling to the East. On particularly clear evenings, even the lights of Charlotte can be seen glittering in the distance.

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TRAIL MIX

0 4 . 16

SOUTHERN PLAYLIST NEW RECORDS IN BLUEGRASS, BAR ROCK, AND BANJO WITH BEATS

by JEDD FERRIS

ith the onset of spring comes three standout records from Bloodkin’s Daniel Hutchens, North Carolinabased bluegrass band Town Mountain, and Nashville folk-hop group Judah & the Lion.

DANIEL HUTCHENS The Long Road to Redemption Daniel Hutchens has been delivering Southern rock tunes with a literary bent with his steadfast partner Eric Carter in the underdog band Bloodkin for more than two decades. The band has been scrappily working regional clubs since the early 90s, never quite achieving the success of similar-sounding contemporaries Drivn’ N Cryin’ and the Drive-By Truckers. But as a mainstay in the storied music scene of Athens, Ga., the group has garnered plenty of critical praise and always had the respect of peers. The band’s debut album, 1994’s Good Luck Charm, was produced by Johnny Sandlin (Allman Brothers Band), and multiple Bloodkin songs have reached big crowds in the repertoire of Southern jam kings Widespread Panic. Some admiring musical friends helped out with Hutchens’ new solo 78

record, The Beautiful Vicious Cycle of Life (released April 22). The gritty 11-song effort was produced by Panic’s Dave Schools, who plays bass throughout the album and enlists support from a strong cast of Athens’ best, including producer/musician David Barbe on electric guitar and psych-folk multi-instrumentalist Thayer Sarrano on keyboards. Front and center, though, is Hutchens’ powerful bluesy voice, which howls through the tough truths of a troubled soul with an honest notebook. Lyrically, Hutchens looks back at the pitfalls of hard living, even when his brawny barroom chords have an upbeat edge. In “Touch Up Time,” he sings, “I smell that coffee burning down the stove, last night what a long sinful road I drove,” over a country rock groove with plenty of Tom Petty swagger. Going deeper is the haunting ballad “American Country Ghosts,” where Hutchens laments a long list of regrets, including bringing cocaine into his 90-year-old mom’s house, while channeling the lyrical wisdom of Patsy Cline and Waylon Jennings. It’s not all dark, though. In the anthemic fist-pumper “Pretty Girls in Summer Dresses” Hutchens finds salvation through family, admitting “I sweated out my poison, I found my power.” TOWN MOUNTAIN From the Blue Ridge to the Bayou In a time of continuous genre blurring, fleet-fingered quintet Town Mountain continues to confidently deliver hard-driving straightforward bluegrass tunes that add original character to the genre’s traditional roots. Formed in Asheville, N.C., back in 2005, the group has grown

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from Appalachian picking party favorites to a nationally lauded act with multiple International Bluegrass Music Association Awards on band members’ shelves. To make its new album, Southern Crescent (released April 1), the band left the Blue Ridge and traveled south to work with Grammy winner Dirk Powell at his studio in Breaux Bridge, Louisiana. The record features an expected dose of fast string picking, including the opening fiddle workout “St. Augustine,” but as it unfolds it becomes a well-rounded effort full of front-porch song craft that touches on various shades of roots music. “Leroy’s Reel” has a distinctly Cajun flavor, while “Comin’ Back to You” is a rockabilly dance tune propelled by some boogie-woogie piano. The band’s backbone is the sturdy voice of front man Robert Greer, who blows off a broken heart in the soulful honky tonk shuffle of “Ain’t Gonna Worry Me” and offers some twangy humor about a bad lover that won’t stay away in “Tick on a Dog.” The standout, though, is “Wildbird,” a classic highway song about curing a restless mind with road miles; perfect for a bluegrass band that sounds pretty comfortable getting outside of its comfort zone. JUDAH & THE LION Mixing Banjo and Beats Folk, Hop and Roll is a transparent title for this Nashville outfit’s second full-length album. The folk-pop expansionists continue to look well beyond their acoustic roots by boldly

incorporating banjo runs with drum machine beats and digital loops. It can be a startling combination, especially in the genre-mashing declarative “Folk-Hop Sound,” which places a skittish hip-hop beat next to walls of synth and bluegrassphrased mandolin licks. It sounds more seamless in “All I Want is You,” a hair-raising foot-stomper with an emotional crescendo from the Mumford playbook. The album, released last month, was made with Nashville’s Americana hot-streak producer Dave Cobb (Jason Isbell, Sturgill Simpson, and Chris Stapleton), who fortunately never lets the sonic swirling overshadow what Judah & the Lion does best—write inspirational pop

songs with tight hooks and infectious melodies. Lead vocalist Judah Akers grew up in rural Tennessee playing in worship bands, and he clearly knows how to hype a crowd. The emotional uplift is in full effect when he shout-sings the chorus to “Take It All Back,” an anthem about choosing romance over fame. It’s easy to see how these songs will kill live. Positive vibrations go a long way.

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2016 FISHING TOURNAMENTS Cherokee’s Annual Opening Day Fishing Tournament

The Tim Hill Memorial Trout Tournament

Rumble in the Rhododendron Fly-Fishing Tournament

MARCH 26–27

JULY 16 –17

OCTOBER 28 –30

$11 entry fee and $20,000 in tagged fish

$11 entry fee and $10,000 in tagged fish

Cherokee's Memorial Day Trout Tournament

The Qualla Country Trout Tournament

MAY 27–29

SEPTEMBER 2 – 4

$11 entry fee and $10,000 in tagged fish

$11 entry fee and $20,000 in tagged fish

For registration details: VisitCherokeeNC.com | 828.359.6110

$225 entry fee and $10,000 in total prize money