Blue Ridge Outdoors July 2023

GUIDE YOUR WAY.

Main Streets to Mountain Tops

Visit Kentucky's State Parks & Trail Towns

For the best of Kentucky's great outdoors, visit the 28 Kentucky Trail Towns and 45 State Parks for a variety of activities and landscapes second to none. From high adrenaline adventures to family-friendly activities, Kentucky is ready to welcome explorers of all stripes. Post-adventures, the experience continues in these active communities. Locally-owned restaurants, shops, and places to stay combined with world-class hospitality make Kentucky Trail Towns & State Parks worth visiting again and again.

Pillow Rock Rapid, Upper Gauley River

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CONTRIBUTORS

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LAUREN STEPP MARY BETH SKYLIS MIKE BEZEMEK

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Itineraries for the climber, paddler, hiker, and biker. 17 |

Sunny trips that mix history and outdoor recreation.

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WELCOMES YOU

Percival’s Island Trail

Plan your next weekend getaway full of adventure in Lynchburg, Virginia. Drift the waters of the James River, experience our riverfront downtown, or bike over 40 miles of urban trails.

LYH welcomes you with open arms and invites you to be part of our story.

A LONG PATH TRAVELED

Carolina

BY DANIEL WALTON

ADVENTURE IN THE BLUE RIDGE

Mountains looked a lot different 100 years ago. The Appalachian Trail had barely been proposed; the Mountains-to-Sea Trail wasn't even a gleam in North Carolina's eye. The most advanced gear, as noted in a contemporary hike announcement, was "stout shoes and heavy wool socks."

Yet while a time traveler from 1923 might be baffled by today's Bluetooth speakers and carbonfiber trekking poles, one element of the region's outdoor scene would be comfortingly familiar. The Carolina Mountain Club would be there to offer friendly advice and expert guidance on the trails of the Tar Heel State.

The South's largest hiking and trail maintenance organization turns 100 this year, and the centenary will be celebrated on Sunday, July 16, with a free birthday party at the N.C. Arboretum in Asheville. The event will feature live music, food trucks, ice cream, and guided hikes, a tradition that Danny Bernstein says stretches back to the club's earliest days.

Bernstein, a longtime hike leader with the CMC, recently released Carolina Mountain Club: One Hundred Years, an extensive survey of the club's history. She says some of the group's very first newletters outline the highly organized system of trail scouting and leadership still used by contemporary CMC guides.

Such rigor had been encouraged by the club's founders, who had come to Asheville from Boston in 1919 to create a Southern chapter of the Appalachian Mountain Club. (Another legacy of its Northeast origin, Bernstein says, is the CMC's embrace of female members, from early hike leader Barbara Ambler to recent president Barbara Morgan.) Local organizers

kept those traditions when they struck out as an independent group in 1923.

From the start, Bernstein says, the CMC worked to make hiking more accessible. "We have all these great things, like Mount Mitchell, the highest mountain east of the Mississippi," she says of the founders' attitudes. "But nobody knows about them, and nobody knows how to get there!"

On the logistical side, the CMC established a robust carpooling system to tackle the winding, often unpaved roads into the wild. Before public lands like Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the Blue Ridge Parkway had been fully fleshed out, the group arranged access to private trails. And thanks to member George Masa, a Japanese photographer and mountaineer who had settled in Asheville, the club offered some of the first trail maps of the Smokies in 1932.

Not content just to hike on existing paths, the CMC became instrumental in building out the region's trail network as well. The group helped blaze the Appalachian Trail's North Carolina section in the 1920s and '30s; it established the Art Loeb Trail, named after an avid

CMC member, through the Shining Rock Wilderness in the 1960s; and it led efforts to build the western portion of the Mountains-to-Sea Trail from the 1980s onward.

That work continues today, says current CMC president Tom Weaver. The club's roughly 1,000 members maintain all trails along the Blue Ridge Parkway from Cherokee to the eastern edge of Buncombe County, as well as hundreds of trail miles throughout western North Carolina's national forests. Beyond the upkeep work of clearing vegetation and diverting water from paths, the club continues to relocate sections of the Applachian and Mountains-to-Sea trails so they follow more sustainable routes.

Weaver says the CMC's volunteer trail crews are more robust than ever, with the pandemic providing a substantial boost. With much of the commercial world closed, more people were out hiking, and the club had more chances to recruit fresh arms.

"We always say about the rewards of trail maintenance that it's fresh air, it's exercise, and it's building or maintaining trails that your grandchildren will walk on someday," Weaver says. He's launched a "Centennial

Challenge" to help bring in even more volunteers, with people qualifying for a special patch if they hike 50 miles and put in 50 hours of maintenance work. He also established an endowment fund to support training and provide tools for trail maintainers.

In some ways, CMC has shifted with the times. The club has developed a free online database of regional trail routes to complement its ongoing guided hikes; its leaders now download GPS coordinates to supplement the printed maps Masa and others relied on in the early days.

But at its core, says Bernstein, the club remains true to the path of celebrating nature and cameraderie that it started walking 100 years ago. "It's a place to learn about the land in a very comfortable way," she says. "If you go on a hike with us, you've got a whole bunch of people who will soon be your friends."

More information about the Carolina Mountain Club birthday celebration is available at CMC100th.org. Carolina Mountain Club: One Hundred Years is available online through the Friends of the Mountains-To-Sea Trail or at Asheville-area retail locations including Malaprop's Bookstore/Cafe and Mast General Store.

The

Mountain Club looks back on 100 years of hiking

A GROUP OF EARLY CAROLINA MOUNTAIN CLUB HIKERS ARE LED BY DR. GAILLARD S. TENNENT (THIRD FROM LEFT), THE CAROLINA MOUNTAIN CLUB'S FIRST PRESIDENT AND NAMESAKE OF TENNENT MOUNTAIN IN THE PISGAH NATIONAL FOREST. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE CAROLINA MOUNTAIN CLUB ARCHIVE, D.H. RAMSEY LIBRARY, SPECIAL COLLECTIONS, UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA ASHEVILLE

IN PRAISE OF SERVICEBERRIES

BY ROBERT MCGEE

“ALL GOOD THINGS ARE WILD and free.”

- Henry David Thoreau

EACH MEMORIAL DAY, I VISIT the library even though it’s closed. In fact, I go because it’s closed.

With the parking lot empty, I maneuver my pickup between two Amelanchier trees I make this pilgrimage to see. I position the front end facing out so that I can stand in the truck bed to pick purplish orbs with great delight. Sometimes I stand on a step stool and, when I can no longer safely reach, I forfeit the uppermost fruit to birds.

Some say these trees acquired their most commonly used name, serviceberry, because, in olden days, they bloomed around the time that muddy roads became passable for circuit-riding preachers to resume church services in rural towns. This seems fitting since my gathering of berries is as much a spiritual quest as foraging for food. Though "berry" is a misnomer; they’re really pomes. Ovaries and flower parts fuse to form pome fruit, whereas berries grow from a single flower with a single ovary. Biology aside, I love serviceberries for their wildness and for being free.

Often when I’m picking, library patrons call to me across the parking lot. “What are they?” they shout in a friendly way.

“Serviceberries!” I respond, thrilled to connect with anyone who wants to know.

“What’s that?” some will ask.

The serviceberry tree is a member of the Rosaceae family, which includes roses and many flowering, fruiting trees and shrubs. They’re deciduous and found throughout the Northern Hemisphere, offering four-season delights with their vibrant white blossoms, bright pomes, and autumn leaf colors. The name Juneberry is also used since most of the fruit ripens in that month. Other names—shadbush and shadblow—refer to the fish that

run and spawn in that brief season when serviceberries bloom. Another name, sarvisberry, pays homage to the way that rural folk pronounced the word ‘service’ in Appalachia not so long ago.

I love serviceberry trees for their generosity, for how they serve humanity by providing shade, as well as sustenance for pollinators and for birds. Each person I encounter while visiting these trees seems overjoyed. Adults smile like small children making new discoveries. Amazing! Their beaming faces seem to say. Food is growing near where we park our cars!

Invariably, some who see me filling yogurt containers ask, “What do they taste like?” When I’m feeling generous, I hand some delicate fruit down from my elevated perch so they can taste and determine for themselves. To me, they taste like a cross between a cherry and a blueberry, with a nutty aftertaste. Though highly prized for making jams and pies, I love to eat them freshly picked, preferably just after a pleasant rain.

I believe my relationship to

serviceberry trees in pleasant rains has made me a more pleasant person. I always feel lighter, more reverential, even slightly holy, when in their presence. When visiting serviceberry trees, I’m in love with life and feel like singing (despite being tone-deaf); I feel energized and want others to embrace this simple yet wondrous feeling too.

Well, most of the time.

One Sunday near the summer equinox, a woman snaps me from my silent revelry to ask, “Are they any good?” She startles me, really, just as I’ve popped serviceberries into my mouth. I devour them quickly but do not speak. Truly, I’m at a loss.

You see, it’s the end of the picking season; this is my final trip, and not much fruit remains. I’ll be lucky to get half a cup. Three weeks ago, I would have been more than happy to tell her all about serviceberries and how they taste. They’re wonderful! I would have said. Have some of mine! I’d have been as generous as the tree itself, giving her my spare container so she could join me and pick all that she could reach.

But today I feel the way I felt during the early days of the pandemic when I had to arm wrestle a burly man for the last roll of toilet paper at the grocery store. Down to my final few serviceberries, I shrug.

As much as I know that I should share and that sharing is the right thing to do, I’m afraid to make eye contact with the hungry-looking woman for fear of the shame I’ll feel when faced with her kind but pleading eyes. I don’t mind sharing with birds, I think, but these are my last berries until next year

And so I mumble, “They’re… okay.” (Forgive me is what I should have said.)

After all, Thoreau might have said that all good things are wild and free, but I don’t recall him saying anything about how sharing one’s dwindling supply of good things does a fellow any good.

Watching the stranger trudge—empty-handed and emptymouthed—to her SUV, I feel guilty. And yet, I’m only human. As much as the serviceberry tree has taught me, I realize that I still have much to learn and far to go.

We can only aspire to be trees.

Virginia is for all kinds of outdoor lovers. Whether you're a mountain hiker, a lake paddler, a dock sitter, or a beach lounger, Virginia's got something for every type of outdoor lover. So, come love it for yourself!

Get on the Road

Trip Itineraries for Every Type of Adventurer

BY LAUREN STEPP

YOU’VE BANKED VACATION DAYS AND ARE ready to get out of the house. Now all you need is a destination. That’s why we’ve curated four actionpacked trips across Southern Appalachia that will fill your summer with rides, rambles, rapids, and rocks. So pack your bags and crank up the car—it’s time to hit the road.

Sample Singletrack in Pisgah National Forest

It’s not hard to find legendary singletrack in Brevard, N.C., a sleepy-eyed mountain town located at the entrance of Pisgah National Forest. What’s hard is deciding which trails to ride during your time in this mountain biking mecca. Luckily, Lucas Gomez—a mechanic at The Hub and Pisgah Tavern, a local bike shop and taproom—has perfected what he refers to as the “Ultimate Loop.”

Clocking in at 41.4 miles with 5,394 feet of elevation gain, the route is “pretty stout,” Gomez

warns. But for all your toiling, you’ll be rewarded with a taste of Pisgah’s most iconic trails, including Black Mountain, Bennett Gap, and Joel Branch. Riders will even get to sample Stony Knob, a “mystery flow trail in the middle of the woods that seems out of place but is a blast to come down,” says Gomez.

From there, Gomez’s loop will spit you out in downtown Brevard, where you can recover with a white cheddar jalapeño pimento cheese sandwich from Rocky’s Grill and Soda Shop. For good measure, Gomez suggests you also add a chocolate shake to your order. “It’s probably not the best for your stomach, but it’s good for the soul,” he laughs.

After refueling, follow the Brevard Bike Path back to your car and go rent a cabin at Pilot Cove. Situated within pedaling distance of Pisgah, this forest resort caters to mountain biking enthusiasts. There’s even an on-site flow track, just in case 41.4 miles didn’t tucker you out.

SENECA ROCKS. PHOTO COURTESY OF WEST VIRGINIA DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM

Reach New Heights at Seneca Rocks

If you’re a newbie climber, it’s easy to feel intimidated by the 900-foot Tuscarora sandstone escarpment that is West Virginia’s Seneca Rocks. Fortunately, Tom Cecil is here to teach you the ropes.

As the owner of Seneca Rocks Mountain Guides (SRMG), Cecil leads monthly Kinship of the Rope Road Trips to this beloved landmark. Part climbing course, part meetup, these twoday rendezvous are designed to help beginner rock jocks build community while developing the confidence needed to climb outside of a gym.

“On the morning of day one, we assess your skills and start with something easy. We want everyone to feel comfortable,” Cecil explains. “Afterward, we head off to the summit of Seneca Rocks.”

On day two, guides take the group to Nelson Rocks, a striking rock formation located 10 miles south. “We’re the only ones allowed to climb there, so it’s a really cool, crowd-free experience,” says Cecil.

In the evenings, participants can crash at the SRMG Basecamp, a private campground situated on the banks of Seneca Creek. The

outfitter also provides breakfast and dinner by the fire. But if you’re craving more formal fare, Cecil recommends making the 30-minute drive to The Hermitage Inn and Taphouse in Petersburg. Nestled in a nearly 200-year-old mansion, this eatery boasts stick-to-your-ribs comfort foods like smoked trout dip, cinnamonspiced bread dredged in apple butter, and pulled pork nachos.

Find Seclusion on the Benton MacKaye Trail

Stretching roughly 290 miles from Springer Mountain, Ga., to Davenport Gap in the northeastern corner of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the Benton MacKaye Trail (BMT) is a bit long for a weekend backpacking trip. But there are plenty of opportunities to section-hike this footpath, so long as you don’t mind being alone.

“This trail doesn’t see much traffic—I think I saw two backpackers during my time,” says Tara Dower, a thru-hiker and ultra-runner who polished off the BMT last summer. “So, it can be overgrown in areas but the peaceful seclusion makes for a wonderful experience.”

If you’re craving a few quiet days in the woods, travel six miles down Lakeview Drive

near Bryson City, N.C. Also known as the Road to Nowhere, this scenic mountain highway was constructed to provide Swain County families displaced by the construction of Fontana Lake access to ancestral lands. But when environmental concerns cropped up in 1971, construction came to a screeching halt and never resumed.

Alas, the highway now abruptly ends at a quarter-mile-long tunnel. When you arrive at this eerily dark shaft, every particle of your being will scream “Let’s just go home and doomscroll!” Ignore that little voice and enter anyway. You’ll then follow the BMT south for 34.7 miles to the Fontana Dam.

According to Dower, this stretch of the trail can be pretty wiley. “Even though the elevation profile isn’t crazy, there are a lot of blowdowns,” she says. “It’s tough.”

When you finish your trek—which should take between three to four days—treat yourself to a “dam burger” at Wildwood Grill. Afterward, you can either snuggle into a warm, cozy bed at Fontana Village Resort and Marina or rent a camp spot along the Little Tennessee River.

(FAR LEFT) SENECA ROCKS. PHOTO COURTESY OF WEST VIRGINIA DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM (TOP RIGHT) PILOT COVE IN BREVARD, N.C. PHOTO BY LEIGHTON GRANT OF SINGLE POINT MEDIA (BOTTOM MIDDLE) PHOTO BY KURT REISE AND ANSLEY CHAPPELL OF CAPTURING WNC PHOTO (BOTTOM RIGHT) PISGAH NATIONAL FOREST SINGLETRACK.

PHOTO BY JARED KAY OF AMPLIFIED MEDIA

Raft the Rapids of the Chattooga River

In 1972, when Warner Bros. finished filming the American thriller Deliverance in northeastern Georgia, local whitewater fanatic Claude Terry purchased used rafting equipment from the set and founded Southeastern Expeditions. The outdoor outfitter has been guiding trips down the Chattooga River ever since, says current owner Dusty Rogers.

“We’re now the oldest rafting and kayaking company in the Eastern United States,” Rogers confirms.

For a taste of the feral Chattooga, book the company’s Wilder: Section IV tour. Starting at the Highway 76 bridge in Clayton, Ga., and ending at Lake Tugaloo, this seven-hour trip takes paddlers on a heart-pumping ride through famous, class IV rapids with foreboding names like “Corkscrew” and “Sockem Dog.”

If you’re craving a more family-friendly excursion, Rogers recommends the Wild: Section III tour. This route commences at Thrifts Ferry Campground in Mountain Rest, S.C., and winds down to the Highway 76 bridge. Though generally tame, you can still expect stretches of top-notch whitewater.

Afterward, change into some dry clothes and head to the Universal Joint for brisket tacos and loaded fries. For dessert, polish off a dozen (or two) donuts from The Farmhouse on North Main Street and then get comfy at The White Birch Inn, a quaint hotel nestled in the heart of historic Clayton.

(TOP) WHITEWATER ON THE CHATTOOGA RIVER. PHOTO COURTESY OF SOUTHEASTERN EXPEDITIONS (BOTTOM) THE UNIVERSAL JOINT IN CLAYTON, GA.

PHOTO BY GEOFF JOHNSON/COURTESY OF EXPLORE GEORGIA

Exploring the Historic Forts of the Southeast Coast

From Florida to the Carolinas, these sites mix history with outdoor activities

BY MIKE BEZEMEK

OUR FAVORITE FORT WAS PERHAPS THE least known, and one of the last that we visited. Part of the appeal was arriving by water on a warm December afternoon aboard a nearly empty National Park Service (NPS) ferry. As the boat approached Rattlesnake Island, we got a closer look at the small but impressive Matanzas Tower. This curiously shaped masonry fort was built by the Spanish in the early 1740s as a watchtower. Its location—just inside the mouth of the tidal Matanzas River on the coast of Northern Florida—was chosen to protect the nearby colonial city of St. Augustine.

Today the watchtower rises above the Intracoastal Waterway as the centerpiece of Fort Matanzas National Monument . This fun NPS unit is entirely free, including the hourly ferries to the fort. The park’s 228 acres also include two short nature trails winding through coastal live oak forest and a section of beach on the Atlantic Ocean.

After a brief historical presentation by the ranger, the open-air ferry docked, and our small group pressed toward the wall like friendly invaders. The best part of visiting Fort Matanzas is that you can explore every inch

of this restored and preserved structure using stairs and ladders. The fort was built using blocks of coquina, a sedimentary stone of naturally cemented shell fragments found along the coast. The first level is a 50-foot square wall, with a sentry box and gun deck. The park service has mounted replica cannons to demonstrate how the inlet was guarded. Such defensive action happened only once, in 1742, when two British long boats tested the inlet but turned back after the recently armed fort opened fire.

Rising above the gun deck is the two-

FORT FREDERICA IN GEORGIA. PHOTO BY MIKE BEZEMEK

Explore Outside the Box

story watchtower, which houses re-creations of the soldiers’ and officers’ quarters. After touring the sparse furnishings, my wife and I climbed the ladder to the observation deck. The flag of New Spain, with red branches crossed over a white background, flapped overhead. Below, we spotted a sea turtle swimming in a clear-water cove. We chatted with the friendly ranger about this historic site and others we’d visited.

All along the Southern coast there are many forts preserved as national and state park units. A visit to these historic sites can often be combined with onsite or nearby recreational opportunities like walking paths, hiking and biking trails, paddling routes, and camping. At first, my wife and I stumbled across the forts when we began exploring the region, but eventually the goal was to see them all. Visiting these forts reveals vibrant scenery as well as some of the violent history of this coastline, offering opportunities for relaxation and thoughtful reflection. Here are some of our favorites to explore.

Castillo de San Marcos

National Monument St. Augustine, Florida

Perhaps the most impressive fort along this coastal stretch is Castillo de San Marcos, which was established as the northernmost outpost of Spain’s New World empire. This picturesque fort— like its southern watchtower Matanzas—was built with blocks of coquina. But Castillo de San Marcos is much bigger, about 500 feet tip to tip, a classic star-shaped fort with a square core and four diamond-shaped bastions at each corner. The city the fort was built to protect, St. Augustine, was founded in 1565, making it the oldest continuously inhabited European settlement in the U.S. After 20 years of construction, the castillo was completed in 1695, making it the oldest masonry fort in the U.S.

Today, a visit to the NPSpreserved Castillo de San Marcos fort is mostly about wandering the surrounding 20-acre grounds. You can sit on the stone walls and admire the city, the riverfront, and the art deco Bridge of Lions. The busy city of St. Augustine is very much on the Florida tourist

trail, as visitors crowd the historic downtown and admire the colonial architecture. Popular spots include the Lightner Museum, the St. Augustine Distillery, and Dog Rose Brewing Co.

For a more outdoorsy stop nearby, head about 10 miles north to the Guana Tolomato Matanzas National Estuarine Research Reserve. The big name fits for what is essentially a 76,000-acre coastal nature reserve. An entry fee offers access to walking trails, paddling routes, a beach, and an educational visitor center.

Fort Clinch State Park

Fernandina Beach, Florida

Within sight of the Georgia state line, this 1,400-acre park is a great place for a coastal camping trip. The 3.5-mile scenic drive through the park is famous for its tunnel-like canopy of salt-pruned oak forest with hanging Spanish moss.

At the tip of Amelia Island, you can explore the beautifully restored Fort Clinch. This classic red-brick structure was built as part of the Third System, a U.S. coastal defense network established between the

War of 1812 and the Civil War. Other highlights include short walking paths and a six-mile multi-use trail through the woods that’s used by hikers and mountain bikers.

On the Atlantic side, beachgoers play in the waves and search the sand for fossilized shark teeth. On the Cumberland Sound side, kayakers often explore the protected inlet. The nearby town of Fernandina Beach has a small historic old town to explore and plenty of restaurants and bars, including First Love Brew Pub, a favorite stop for craft beer and creative food.

Fort Pulaski National Monument

Savannah, Georgia

This stop on Cockspur Island outside Savannah will appeal to Civil War buffs. Many may recall the dramatic story without realizing this bombarded fort remains mostly intact. Through NPS restoration and interpretation, the fort is one of the most interesting to explore today.

Early in the war, the Union Army tested a new type of weapon, the rifled cannon, against the

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Confederate-occupied fort. Resembling the swirling pattern that surrounds the swaggering James Bond in a 007 film opening, rifling involves machining helical grooves inside the cannon barrel. This imparts spin on the projectile, which improves distance and accuracy. On the morning of April 10, 1862, Union forces began bombarding Fort Pulaski from another island about a mile away. By the second day, the walls were breached in three places and the fort surrendered. This outcome rendered obsolete all the brick fortifications of the Third System. As a result, very few saw combat and most remained intact and became historic sites.

The highlight here is touring both the interior and exterior of Fort Pulaski, with its stabilized outer walls still bearing the cratered scars of cannon fire. Visitors will also find a variety of outdoor activities throughout this 5,623-acre NPS unit. Several short hiking trails, about a mile or two in length, explore the historic grounds and surrounding woodlands. There’s a boat ramp

from which paddlers can explore the tidal channels, and along the north shore of Tybee Island, you’ll find the six-mile McQueens Island multiuse path. This crushed gravel trail, primarily used for cycling and running, follows the old railroad line from Savannah to Tybee Island.

Fort Sumter and Fort Moultrie National Historic Park Charleston, South Carolina

Fort Sumter probably has the greatest name recognition of all the sites on this list. On April 12, 1861, Confederate forces fired the opening shots of the Civil War against the Union-occupied fort. During the war, the impressive three-story fort—with brick walls five feet thick and fifty feet high— was reduced to rubble. What remains today is the restored first level and the inner battery, where artillery was once mounted and which today houses a museum.

Located on a small island in the middle of scenic Charleston Harbor, Fort Sumter can only be visited by NPS concessionaire

PADDLERS IN SHEM CREEK. PHOTO BY MIKE BEZEMEK

boats. These ferries depart from either the NPS visitor education center at Liberty Square in downtown Charleston or from the concessionaire dock at Patriots Point (next to the Naval and Maritime Museum, with retired aircraft carrier, destroyer, and submarine) in the nearby town of Mount Pleasant. The downtown choice may be preferred by history and architecture enthusiasts, who can tack on a walking tour of busy colonial Charleston. The Mount Pleasant option allows a visit to nearby Shem Creek Park, where you can walk about a mile of boardwalks, visit a waterfront bar and grill, or rent a kayak and explore the tidal inlets. Mount Pleasant also has a historic district of colonial homes to wander through.

Consider doubling up on history by stopping by, or substituting, the other half of this NPS unit, Fort Moultrie, on nearby Sullivan’s Island. Admission to the lesser-known Moultrie costs less and can be reached by vehicle. The fort remains fully intact and originally dates from the time

of the American Revolution, showcasing nearly 200 years of military advances. There’s also a small World War II command post to explore, which was built with steel inside the older brick walls. Standing atop those defensive walls offers one of the best views of Fort Sumter, across the water. Afterward, you can explore the grounds and oceanfront beach.

More Forts to Explore

There are many more historic forts along the South’s coast that are worth a stop, including the mysterious Fort Raleigh National Historic Site on Roanoke Island, NC. One of the most remote forts is a small, earthen outpost named Battery Warren on the swampy Santee River inside Francis Marion National Forest, in the South Carolina Low Country. And one of the most historic is Fort Frederica National Monument , on St. Simons Island, site of the first English colony in Georgia, which, beyond the few stone walls of the remaining foundation, features scenic wooded grounds next to a tidal waterway.

This summer, let Mother Nature be your therapist: the uncanny scent of mountain adventure, a fistful of bellyflops, and quality goof-off time with people that share your last name.

What’s even more therapeutic? Book your lodging with us, and enjoy a free Activity Fun Pass for everyone in your group.

snowshoemtn.com

THE CASTILLO DE SAN MARCOS BASTION AND MOAT. PHOTO BY MIKE BEZEMEK

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT BEAR CONTAINERS

Canisters can provide safety in the wild for people and animals

BY MARY BETH SKYLIS

HUMAN FOOD CONDITIONING is a growing problem for bears across the nation. It happens when a bear learns to frequent human-occupied areas in the pursuit of food. This behavior can escalate, causing the bears to become aggressive in pursuit of an easy snack. This is dangerous for humans as well as bears, since the animals often need to be relocated or euthanized. For hikers and backpackers, using proper food storage methods while in bear country is one way to prevent encounters. Here’s a quick primer on bear containers and why you should use them in areas with high bear populations.

Why You Should BearProof Your Food

Bears play an important part in seed dispersion, contributing to the health of our forests. They also help maintain ecosystem balance. Unfortunately, it can take as little as one human food encounter for a

bear to become food conditioned, resulting in a shift in behavior. And it is nearly impossible to change their habits once they’ve adapted to associate humans with food. Beyond preventing bear-human interactions, bear-proofing food also protects bears and the local environment.

Bear Container Styles and Types

Bear containers come in a few different styles and types. The most popular option is the bear canister, which is commonly mandated in some national parks, national forests, and wilderness areas across the country. Another common beardeterrent option is a scent-proof sack or baggie, which can be used as a bear-deterrent by itself, or as an extra layer of protection within a bear canister.

The Bear Canister

The bear canister is designed to store food and trash. This device comes with locks that require opposable thumbs to open. Bears can smell through these containers, but they usually can’t break them open. Bear canisters are also usually rodent-resistant. Some well-tested Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee (IGBC)-certified bear canisters include models by BearVault, Grub Can, and UDAP Industries.

The Ursack

Ursack makes a series of bear-resistant bags with Spectra or Kevlar (or a combination of the two materials). These bags are both bear and critter-resistant, which can make them a good alternative to a conventional bear canister. IGBCcertified Ursacks include the Ursack Major and the AllMitey.

The Opsak

The Opsack is a sealable plastic bag that’s extremely odor resistant. The Opsak is not, by itself, a bearresistant product. But it’s commonly used in conjunction with a bear canister to create an extra-resistant system. These sacks are 17,000 times more odor resistant than HDPE. They are also waterproof and airtight.

Choosing the Right Size

Backpackers looking to keep pack weight down are precious about space, but fortunately bear canisters come in a variety of sizes—weekend, week, narrow, and ultralight—for different adventures. BearVault, one of the most popular bear canister brands, carries four different sizes: the BV425, the BV450, the BV470, and the BV500. The BV425 or BV450 make a good choice for weekend warriors. The BV470 or BV500 would be the better pick for long-distance backpackers. Once you’ve selected the option that

fits your hiking preferences, give it a few test runs on day or overnight trips to make sure that it will fit all of your scented items.

Renting Bear Canisters

In some parts of the country with hearty bear populations, outfitters and gear shops offer bear canister rentals at varying costs. Yosemite National Parks rents bear canisters for $5 per week (with a $95 deposit), while REI currently charges $5 for the first night, and $2 for every consecutive night for members. Canisters typically cost between $60-100.

More Bear Food Safety Tips:

• Cook meals away and downwind from your campsite.

• Store your bear canister or sack 100 feet away from your tent.

• Put a rock or something noisy on top of your bear canister or bag as an alarm system.

• Keep in mind that these products are only as effective as their user. Human error is the most common cause of system failure.

Getting to Know a New Camper

A shakedown trip on Carolina’s Coastal Plain

BY MIKE BEZEMEK

THE TWO-HOUR DRIVE FELT downright idyllic. We were towing our new camper along a country highway through farm fields, stands of pine trees, and gently rolling hills. Overhead, wispy clouds drifted through sunny blue skies. Warm air swirled in through my open window. My wife seemed happy. I felt happy. A friendly driver at a fourway intersection appeared happy, waving us through.

This was our very first camper adventure. A shakedown trip to one of our favorite places on the inner Coastal Plain. North Carolina’s Bladen County is a hidden gem of forested hills, excellent trails, undeveloped lakes, and winding rivers. Cruising along at a leisurely 55 MPH, even our gas mileage (14.5 mpg) was a pleasant surprise, despite our fully loaded rig. In addition to pulling the 17-foot Casita

travel trailer, we had two mountain bikes and a hardshell kayak on the truck roof. In the bed was a deflated paddleboard and enough camping equipment and food to last our seven-day trip.

“You know, we used to dislike the driving part,” I said, thinking back on simpler days when we threw up a tent and quickly hit the river or trail. “But now it’s like a nice break from all the chaos.”

My wife looked at me. “Yeah, no kidding.”

On second thought, perhaps idyllic and happy weren’t the right words. Ever since buying the camper, the past three months have been a whirlwind of researching, cleaning, ordering, installing, testing, troubleshooting, planning, packing, misplacing, arguing, and reconciling. The past few days had been the most intense yet,

with over a dozen trips to stores for last minute items. Yesterday, running way behind, we’d started crossing out to-do items to salvage the departure day: no testing the water system, no shower, no toilet, no sewer. We could use the campground facilities. Yet we still missed our ETD, and we began wondering aloud if the camper was a huge mistake that we needed to sell to stay sane. Honestly, a twohour drive felt like a major relief.

“Maybe we should just drive this thing around for seven straight days,” I joked.

“That sounds great,” said my wife in a dazed voice.

We pulled into the wooded campground at Jones Lake State Park around 4:30 pm, later

than hoped. Luckily, the gravel driveway at our full-hookup site was wide and flat and relationship approved. Backing in the trailer didn’t lead to the instant argument that sometimes happens with RV couples.

Set-up went well. Crank the manual tongue jack onto a wooden block. Set the stabilizing jack stands atop some Lynx levelers. Fumble with and drop the chain of 10,000 keys. We’re talking camper door keys, cargo hatch keys, hitch lock keys, padlock keys, bike rack keys, torture rack keys. Then I muttered for an equal amount of time about the urgency of “getting organized.”

Next came connecting to shore power. One consideration: don’t shock myself—even if a

hospital visit sounded like a great chance to get away from it all. Joking aside, being careful with shore power is important. While there are many expensive reusable surge protectors, for now I chose a simple two-part kit from Progressive Industries. First, I plugged in the tester. A green light told me the circuit was fine to use. Then I plugged in a 30-amp surge module. If there’s a spike, the $20 disposable unit is toast, so I packed a second as a back-up. Next, I plugged in the camper and hoped for the best. Inside, we turned on the electrical power and refrigerator, which had been pre-cooling in our driveway for the past two days. Success!

With an hour of daylight to

spare, we took a walk along Jones Lake. This park, and the surrounding Bladen Lakes State Forest, are part of nearly 60 square miles of rugged country with an interesting story. To start, the area holds some of the most intact and undisturbed Carolina Bays—round lakes with a mysterious geological origin. The federal government purchased the land for work programs during the Great Depression, and it was given to the state in the 1950s. Due to racial segregation, Jones Lake State Park was established as a park for African Americans. As a result of public ownership and limited funding, these 60 square miles remained in a relatively wild state. Before returning to camp, and firing up our new propane grill, we

PHOTO BY MIKE BEZEMEK

watched a stunning sunset reflected by the placid, tree-lined lake.

The next morning, the focus finally shifted from equipment shakedown to activities. Our first stop was mountain biking at Browns Creek Bike Park, built into sandy hills near the Cape Fear River on the outskirts of E-town. This is, without a doubt, the best singletrack on the Coastal Plain. Upon arrival, a fellow cyclist explained the ride had recently been expanded by the excellent trail builders from Cape Fear SORBA. Just shy of 16 miles, with a long-term plan to reach 25. My wife had to send a few work emails, so I took off on a first lap. This ride has everything. A warm-up through bottomlands. Lung-bursting climbs. Flowy descents. A hill-top jump park. Huge wooden berms that feel like riding up the walls of a treehouse. And plenty of wooded mileage that resembles a surprising slice of Appalachia. When I returned to the truck, my legs were shaking. My wife had gotten out two of our new RV-lifestyle indulgences, folding recliner chairs. We had lunch under

pine trees before hitting the trail for another lap.

That afternoon we had hoped to paddle Jones Lake, but tired legs and stiff winds nixed that plan. Instead, we pivoted back to the shakedown with a trip to the friendliest small-town Walmart in the world. When we asked where to find something, this staff didn’t just laugh, as if a superstore was some unknowable enigma, like the meaning of life. Instead, they actually walked with us through the aisles. Their friendliness was infectious and helped tame some of our bickering about outfitting the camper. Because of the limited space, every little purchase was leading to big debates, including a paper towel holder and placemats.

We finished the day with a driving tour of nearby White Lake. This fully developed Carolina bay is surrounded by housing developments, trailer parks, and resorts. It’s the reason most people come to the area. It does seem like a fun place, with a bike path paralleling the highway. But it’s not quite our

(TOP) BROWNS CREEK. (BOTTOM) JONES LAKE.

PHOTOS BY MIKE BEZEMEK

scene, so we headed back to camp. Later that night, we got a reminder of why we wanted a camper to begin with. Exhausted, we tumbled into the permanent full-size bed we installed. To ditch the standard convertible tabletop and seat cushions, I’d started by putting down plywood. Next came an air-flow mat, essentially one inch of woven plastic that prevents moisture build-up and mold—essential in a humid climate. The comfortable mattress was a six-inch gel foam Elation from

Mattress Insider, custom-fit to match the rounded corners of the space. For us, this choice hit the sweet spot between medium firmness, thickness, weight, and price.

“Okay, this makes it worth it,” said my wife, before we drifted off to sleep, for the first time “camping” several feet above the ground.

The next day was all about the woods. While most of Bladen Lakes State Forest can be explored via sandy roads, the hiking trails are concentrated in a few spots. We started at Turnbull Creek

Educational State Forest, a smaller sub-unit—about 1.5 square miles— with a pretty large name. It’s one of the seven educational forests in North Carolina, which offer classes and programing about forestry.

At the visitor center, we were greeted by a friendly ranger, who was more than happy to answer my questions. Fifteen minutes later, she and I were still pulling out maps and talking about realignment plans for the cross-state Mountains-to-Sea Trail to pass through Turnbull. Another fifteen minutes later, and my wife and a ranger-in-training were staring at us with a look like, talking about hiking is boring, just do it already

So off we went on the Long Trail for a 4.5-mile loop. Along the way there were exhibits about forest products, like timber and pine straw. For a mile the trail followed Turnbull Creek, a pleasant blackwater stream. At the old airstrip there was a lookout tower and forest service Huey helicopter to climb inside. Followed by a mile or two of walking—and sinking into—the soft loam of a logging road.

We still had more to do, like

playing disc golf in E-town at Tory Hole Park, site of a Revolutionary War battle. We needed to resolve our latest disagreement about the intricacies of hanging wet towels. We also wanted to paddle at some point. And hike from camp out to Salters Lake, one of the only remaining wilderness Carolina bays. But for now, we trudged along and opened our latest debate: what to name our camper?

“How about Eggs-celente?” I suggested. “It’s shaped like an egg, it’s pretty excellent, and this sounds slightly similar to Rocinante, John Steinbeck’s camper in Travels with Charley.”

“I don’t know,” said my wife. “It looks more like a dairy cow. What about Daisy?”

“Daisy the Dairy Cow-sita?”

“I’ll have to think about that one.”

“Ok, what about…” I spread my arm widely. “It’s the R-gument V.”

My wife rolled her eyes.

“RV,” I went on. “Argument V.”

“Yeah, I got it,” said my wife, clapping sarcastically. “I’m hungry.”

So, we hurried back to have lunch at our Rgument V.

PHOTO BY MIKE BEZEMEK

Explore 406 square miles of wonder. Just across the river from Washington, DC, you’ll find much more in Northern Virginia. More hidden gems. More historic sites. More parks. And more connections. From George Washington’s Mount Vernon to a Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, plan your affordable stay – less than a tank away – in Fairfax County, and love every mile. Visit FXVA.com to discover much more.

Scan the code to see Space Shuttle Discovery land in your space.

Recreation and relaxation are waiting for you in Berkeley Springs. Soak in the warm mineral waters at one of our many spas, visit art galleries, distinctive shops, and enjoy fine dining. Fill your days with hiking, swimming, golfing, horseback riding, fishing or mountain biking.

Every weekend offers live music and a historic movie theatre.

Learn more by visiting

DEEP CUTS

BY WILL HARLAN

WHERE YOU LIVE, THERE WAS once an ancient forest. Just a few hundred years ago, the entire Eastern U.S. was blanketed by towering trees and old-growth forests.

Then, in just a century or so, we cut down nearly all of them. Today, less than 0.1 percent of old-growth forests remain. And nearly all of them are found on public lands.

These last scraps of beautiful ancient forest are almost completely unprotected. National forests— where most of the remaining mature and old-growth forests are found— have no permanent protections from logging. After enormous public outcry, the Forest Service is taking public comments now on how they should manage our old forests. Your voice is critical.

Ancient forests on the chopping block

In the Pisgah-Nantahala National Forest, pockets of old-growth forest persist in deep coves and

on steep slopes. Many of these last remaining ancient forests are specifically targeted for logging in the new Pisgah-Nantahala Forest Plan released earlier this year.

One such timber sale will bring bulldozers to the headwaters of the Chattooga River, a Wild and Scenic River and beloved whitewater paddling and fly-fishing destination. The Southside logging project will clearcut a known, inventoried old-growth forest in the Chattooga River watershed.

Public comments have flooded the Forest Service opposing the Southside logging project. The Forest Service has acknowledged that this forest is rare old growth, yet it is still barreling forward. An iconic river will be degraded, and an ancient forest will be lost.

Often, the Forest Service disguises their logging of mature and old-growth forests by using misleading and deceitful language. In the Pisgah-Nantahala National Forest, they have created a socalled “old-growth forest network.” However, this network consists mostly of young, recently cut forests. Meanwhile, most of the actual old-growth forests are targeted for logging.

The Forest Service is quadrupling logging in the Pisgah-Nantahala National Forest, and it is ramping up logging across the country.

Why old-growth matters to you

Mature and old-growth forests save money and lives. They are our best natural defense against climate change. Mature and old-growth forests absorb 13% of our nation’s annual carbon emissions. They also are natural air conditioners, cooling and purifying the air that we breathe.

Mature and old-growth forests shelter an astonishing diversity of plants and animals. Southern Appalachian forests are some of the most biologically diverse in the temperate world. These forests are a global hotspot for salamanders, fish, mussels, and crayfish, and they shelter many rare and endangered plants.

They also protect drinking water for millions of Americans. Most drinking water supplies in the Eastern U.S. are protected by mature and old-growth forests on national forestlands.

And old growth forests protect us from wildfire. Lush, humid oldgrowth forests with thick-barked trees are the least likely to burn, and their thick soils hold moisture like a sponge. Recently logged forests have much more flammable undergrowth and are drier and windier, allowing wildfire to spread more quickly.

Old-growth forests are often popular recreation destinations, too. The proposed Craggy National Scenic Area in North Carolina is home to world-class trout streams, trails (including North Carolina’s state footpath), tumbling waterfalls—and 4,000 acres of old-growth forests.

Public vs. private

Old-growth forests are oases for recreation, clean water, and wildlife. But these same forests are also targeted by the Forest Service for clearcuts. Even though national forests are publicly owned by all American taxpayers, the Forest Service routinely allows private companies and organizations to clearcut our old-growth forests for private profit.

Of course, we need wood and other forest products—and privately owned forests already provide most of them. Private forests provide 96 percent of all

forest products in the U.S. We don’t need industrial logging on national forests, which make up less than two percent of lands in the Eastern U.S. but contain nearly all the old-growth forests.

Meanwhile, logging on national forests costs taxpayers billions. Logging projects operate at a net loss of $1 billion to taxpayers each year. And that doesn’t include the cost of polluted drinking water, decades of repeated pesticide applications and their downstream impacts, proliferation of invasive species, carbon loss, biodiversity loss, recreational impacts, and streams clogged with sediment.

There are plenty of private lands for logging. We don’t need to log the mature and old-growth forests on national forestlands. These should be a natural heritage for all Americans—including future generations—to enjoy.

A once-in-a-generation opportunity

Finally, here is some good news: The Biden administration recently completed an inventory of all the mature and old-growth forests in national forests. They found more than 24 million acres of old growth and 65 million acres of mature forests nationwide. Definitions vary by region and forest type, but mature forests are generally around 70-80 years old, and old-growth forests are typically at least 100 years old.

Now, the administration has issued a notice for a possible rule to permanently protect these mature and old growth forests.

“This is a once-in-a generation opportunity to protect the most ancient and biologically diverse forests in the country,” says Hannah Furgiuele, program director of Forest Keeper. “But it will require a deluge of public support. These forests belong to all of us.”

Public comments are critical. You can submit comments until July 20. Tell the Forest Service that you want a rule to permanently protect mature and old growth forests on national forestlands. They are worth far more standing than cut down.

Sign on to comments and learn more at climate-forests.org.

Old-growth forests are under attack, but a national rule could save them

JOSH KELLY STANDS IN AN OLD-GROWTH FOREST TARGETED FOR LOGGING IN THE NANTAHALA NATIONAL FOREST, N.C.

PHOTO BY WILL HARLAN

DESTINATION ADVENTURE: THE ROAD TRIP GUIDE

As the sun’s warm rays stretch across the picturesque landscapes of the Southeast and Mid-Atlantic, the roads are ever inviting for adventure-seekers and wandering travelers alike. From rushing rivers waiting to be paddled to singletrack ready for shredding, all road-trippers can find a little something for themselves in one of these 14 destinations. So fasten your seatbelt, tune into the soulful melodies of the region, and get ready for a road trip like no other.

DISCOVER THE OUTDOORS IN FREDERICK COUNTY, MD

An urban downtown with shops and restaurants, just minutes away from endless outdoor recreation, is a roadtripper’s paradise. Frederick County is home to the City of Frederick, the second largest city in Maryland, and holds the key to unlocking a world of adventure.

EXIT HERE!

Take in the tumbling water at Cunningham Falls, Maryland’s largest cascading waterfall, and fully immerse yourself in the outdoors by camping at Cunningham Falls State Park, where you can enjoy designated swimming areas, fishing, picnicking, and hiking. The C&O Canal National Historic Park in Brunswick is perfect for biking sections of the 184.5mile towpath stretching from Georgetown in Washington, D.C., to Cumberland, Maryland. This route provides scenic views of the canal, river, and surrounding nature for a tranquil experience. For a more thrilling bike ride, head to the Frederick

City Watershed to delight in rocky and technical terrain.

Spotsylvania is celebrating its 300th anniversary in 2021 with a series

Take a scenic hike or picnic at Catoctin Mountain Park, right off of US-15. Easy to strenuous trails are available for hikers of all kinds!

Before you head out of town, River & Trail Outfitters in Brunswick and Trail House in Frederick have all the supplies you need to hit the trails.

• Gettysburg, PA - 35 miles N.

• Washington, DC - 45 miles SE

• Baltimore, MD - 50 miles E.

FALL IN LOVE WITH NATURE

CHIMNEY ROCK CATOTCTIN MOUNTAIN PARK CREDIT VISIT FREDERICK

C&O CANAL LOCKHOUSE 28 CREDIT VISIT FREDERICK

GAMBRILL MOUNTAIN PARK CREDIT VISIT FREDERICK

GET AWAY FROM IT ALL IN HIGHLAND COUNTY, VA

There’s no better place to find solitude in nature than the mountains and waters of the least populous county in Virginia. Whether you are fishing in the headwaters of the James and Potomac rivers, hiking secluded trails, or just gazing up at the dark starry night sky, this is your basecamp for rejuvenation.

FORESTS AND TRAILS

Climb over 100 steps up Sounding Knob Fire Tower for breathtaking 360 degree views from sunrise to sunset. Immerse yourself in history while hiking along the pristine McDowell Battlefield Trail, or explore the ridgetops of the Shenandoah Mountain Trail. Cyclists should plan to visit for the annual Mountain Mama Road Bike Challenge—the first Saturday of August—for 10,000 feet of climbing over 105 miles. Of course, a visit to Highland County wouldn’t be complete without a taste of local maple syrup found at sugar camps, downhome restaurants, and restored general stores.

NATURAL BEAUTY IN POCAHONTAS COUNTY, WV

Getting to Pocahontas County, West Virginia is only part of the fun. No matter the season, the scenic twists and turns of your chosen route will leave you inspired for adventure in Nature’s Mountain Playground.

RIVERS AND RAILS

PROXIMITY

• Richmond, VA- 155 miles E.

• Charleston, WV - 190 miles W.

• Washington, DC - 190 miles NE

REST STOP

Right off the intersection of Highway 220 and 250 in the town of Monterey, The Curly Maple is a gift shop, lunch spot, and grocer perfect for a driving break. Lodging is even available above the store with each room in a unique Highland theme!

Spotsylvania is celebrating its 300th anniversary in 2021 with a series

Hit the local rail trails for a history lesson and nature walk, all in one! The West Fork Trail and Greenbrier River Trail offer over 100 miles of former railway to explore. Access the Greenbrier River Trail from Cass Scenic Railroad State Park, which preserves the history of the logging industry in the region. Here, visitors can take a train ride through the mountains, and fish in the Greenbrier River.

PIT STOP!

Take a break to rip some singletrack at Snowshoe Highlands Ride Center! This downhill mountain biking experience is easily accessible from Interstates 64, 81, and 79.

Spotsylvania is celebrating its 300th anniversary in 2021 with a series of programs

Other state

parks within Pocahontas County include Watoga, the largest state park in West Virginia, Beartown, and Droop Mountain Battlefield, which has interpretive trails, exhibits, and a lookout tower to commemorate its association with the Civil War. Monongahela National Forest, and the Cal Price and Seneca State Forests provide for excellent hiking opportunities, and combined with the state parks, total about 400 miles of hiking trails to explore.

PROXIMITY

• Roanoke, VA - 120 miles S.

• Frederick, MD - 200 miles NE

• Raleigh, NC - 275 miles SE

MOUNTAIN MAMA ROAD BIKE CHALLENGE COURTESY LAURA HONAKER PHOTOGRAPHY

TAKE IN THE VIEWS AT ROCK CITY GARDENS, GA

You won’t need hiking boots to explore Lookout Mountain’s most incredible views and geological wonders. Rock City Gardens treats visitors of all ages, and pets, to an adventure like no other right on the Georgia/Tennessee borderline.

A BLEND OF CITY AND NATURE IN CHARLOTTESVILLE & ALBEMARLE COUNTY, VA

Escape to the foothills of Central Virginia for a fun-filled adventure by land and water in Charlottesville and Albemarle County. Remote stretches of nature paired with the amenities of the city and a wide range of lodging options make for an exhilarating combination.

AN ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCE

Take in incredible views of seven states from this mountaintop botanical garden, where squeezing through massive rock formations, traversing the expansive SwingA-Long Bridge and exploring the Enchanted Trail is just half the fun. Flowers above and fairytale scenes below, deep within Fairyland Caverns, capture the imagination of weekenders from Nashville, Atlanta and beyond.

Cool off with a cold snack after your time at Rock City Gardens. With a few locations in nearby Chattanooga, and off of I-24, Clumpies Ice Cream has been handcrafting delicious ice cream since 1999!

Enjoy the ambiance of mountain living at The Chanticleer Inn Bed & Breakfast and RiverView Inn, where Rock City, picturesque hiking trails, and downtown Chattanooga are both just minutes away. Take it from the many roadside barn advertisements and backyard birdhouses that proudly state, “See Rock City” - You must see it to believe it!

PROXIMITY

• Nashville, TN - 135 miles NW

• Atlanta, GA - 120 miles SE

• Charlotte, NC - 340 miles E.

Cool off with a paddle on one of the area’s refreshing rivers. Although the Rivanna River flows through the city, you’ll feel like you’re in the middle of the forest on your kayak, canoe, or standup paddleboard, while the river town of Scottsville provides easy access to the historic James River. Both rivers have outfitters offering a variety of rafting, tubing, paddling, and camping excursions. Explore all of the tastes and views of the area along the Charlottesville Ale Trail and Monticello

Wine Trail. For a one-of-a-kind experience, you can book a horseback ride through a vineyard with Indian Summer Guide Service.

PROXIMITY

EXIT

Spotsylvania is celebrating its 300th anniversary in 2021 with a series of programs

Just off Interstate 64, take a trek on The Saunders-Monticello Trail to the visitor center at Monticello, where you can learn about the history of our third president and his estate.

• Washington, D.C. - 115 miles NE

• Baltimore, MD - 150 miles NE

• Raleigh-Durham, NC - 180 miles S.

VisitCharlottesville.org

FROM RIVERBANKS TO GRAPEVINES

PIT STOP!

RIVANNA RIVER

HISTORIC PEDESTRIAN DOWNTOWN MALL

MONTICELLO WINE TRAIL

STOP AND STAY IN STAFFORD, VA

Positioned conveniently between the Richmond and Washington D.C. metro areas on the I-95 corridor, Stafford, Virginia is the ideal place to stop and explore. With access to both the Rappahannock and Potomac rivers, as well as several parks with lakes, water enthusiasts and outdoor adventurists alike will find their calling here. Take advantage of the area’s art, culture, and history at the plentiful museums, galleries, and historic sites that Stafford has to offer.

EAT PLAY STAY

…and drink! Stafford County has a growing crop of local breweries and wineries to tickle your taste buds. Try to visit each of Stafford County’s six breweries, each with a great variety of beers and unique atmosphere. For wine enthusiasts, Potomac Point Winery offers a charming setting and a range of wines to taste. The winery also hosts events and offers food pairings to enhance your wine tasting experience.

No matter what your speed of adventure is, Stafford County has what you need. Slow it down and play a few rounds on one of the many golf and disc golf courses, or take a leisurely stroll through the Stafford Civil War Park to catch up on local American history. Government Island offers visitors a glimpse of architectural heritage, as it was the site where the White House and The Capitol acquired their stone, and exposed quarries can still be seen. Kayak fish the Potomac at Widewater State Park, or on Curtis Lake, Abel Lake, or Lake Mooney. Explore the diverse wetland habitats at Crow’s Nest Natural Preserve, with over 895 acres of tidal and non-tidal wetlands, and 2,310 acres of mature hardwood forest.

Choose how you spend your nights in Stafford. You can choose from more than 26 hotels in the county, or you can take to the woods at Aquia Pines Camp Resort for basic tent sites, cabins or RV hookup spots.

PROXIMITY

• Washington, D.C. - 45 miles N.

• Richmond, VA - 65 miles S.

• Charlottesville, VA - 75 miles SW TourStaffordVA.com

PIT STOP

Right off of I-95 is Smith Lake and Smith Lake Park, where you can fish on the piers, and let the kids expend some energy in the large fields and playground!

Spotsylvania is celebrating its 300th anniversary in 2021 with a series of programs and events throughout the

EXPLORE THE SMOKIES IN

GATLINBURG, TN

Gatlinburg is your basecamp adventure, especially when it comes to exploring the great outdoors. Gatlinburg’s Parkway offers thrills of all kinds, all while immersed in Mother Nature. Stroll along America’s longest pedestrian cable bridge at Gatlinburg SkyLift Park, or wind down the mountain at Moonshine Mountain Coaster. Endless hiking opportunities await, with over 800 miles of trails waiting to be discovered in the Smokies.

ENDLESS ATTRACTIONS IN NEWPORT NEWS, VA

Combine the adventurous characteristics of an urban city with the soothing calm of green spaces, breathtaking views, and flowing rivers. Newport News, Virginia is the road trip destination of a lifetime, where you can watch ships sail the Mighty James River, rock out at a concert, and enjoy hours of entertainment at various cultural attractions.

New this Summer, opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts abound. Ober Mountain will offer mountain biking, as well as whitewater rafting for exciting new ways to take in nature’s beauty. Guests can seek new heights at Anakeesta’s new BirdVenture, offering three, larger-thanlife, whimsically themed birdhouses for visitors to explore before taking the plunge 50-feet down the mountain in a collection of seven thrilling, winding slides.

However, if great relaxation is more your vibe, set up camp (literally) at Camp LeConte, for a luxury glamping experience.

Gatlinburg is an ideal road trip destination, located just a day’s drive away from nearly 1/3 of the United States. Whether you’re making a one-stop trip or driving through on an all-American style road trip, Gatlinburg’s natural beauty and endless options for adventure make it the perfect stop for your next summer vacation.

PROXIMITY

• Kingsport, TN - 50 miles SW

• Charlotte, NC - 200 miles SE

• Atlanta, GA - 350 miles SW

Gatlinburg.com

DRIVE OR FLOAT THROUGH COUNTY LANDSCAPES

Make memorable experiences at places like Newport News Park, one of the largest municipal parks east of the Mississippi. Adventurers of all ages can enjoy cycling, boating, disc golfing, fishing, camping, and more. Or, take a stroll through unique landmarks including City Center, Port Warwick, and Historic Hilton Village. Expand your horizons through a variety of cultural experiences, from intimate art studios to off-Broadway shows. Check out the animals at the Virginia Living Museum, connect to the World’s waters at The Mariners’ Museum, and reflect upon

history by following the African American Trail. End the day with an al fresco dinner and a breathtaking sunset over the water.

PROXIMITY

PIT STOP!

About 3 miles from I-64, you can immerse yourself in stunning visual arts at the Mary M. Torggler Fine Arts Center, one of the newest and most unique facilities in Virginia.

Spotsylvania is celebrating its 300th anniversary in 2021 with a series of programs

• Arlington, VA - 180 miles NW

• Baltimore, MD - 210 miles N.

• Philadelphia, PA - 320 miles NE

FUN WAYS TO EXPERIENCE

THE OUTDOORS

Just off Interstate 441, grab a rocking chair at the Ole Smoky Moonshine Holler Distillery for a little live music and signature flavored drinks.

A RUSTIC ROAD TRIP IN DAWSONVILLE, GA

EAT PLAY STAY

Chow down on some authentic southern cuisine and seasonal specialties while enjoying spectacular views at Cascades Restaurant. This onsite restaurant at Amicalola Falls State Park & Lodge offers incredible sunset dinners with a mountain backdrop.

PROXIMITY

SELFIE STOP!

Slip on down to the northern Georgia wilderness for unforgettable hikes, waterfalls, and family fun. About an hour north of Atlanta, Dawsonville offers an escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, without sacrificing luxury. Surrounded by the natural beauty of the Chattahoochee National Forest and calm waters of Lake Lanier, summer is the perfect time to make a pit stop in the southern Appalachian foothills.

• Atlanta, GA - 50 miles S.

• Birmingham, AL - 200 miles SW

Spotsylvania is celebrating its 300th anniversary in 2021 with a series of programs and events throughout the

Reopening in September, Fausett Farms Sunflower fields offer the perfect selfie opportunity in over a million sunflowers. And, it is just a 4 minute drive from Amicalola Falls State Park!

• Jacksonville, FL - 350 miles SE

One of the seven natural wonders of Georgia awaits you at Amicalola Falls State Park. At 729 feet, Amicalola Falls is the tallest cascading waterfall in Georgia. Take a trek to the scenic falls and fish the stocked pond at the base, or continue on the 7-mile approach trail that leads to the Southernmost terminus of the Appalachian Trail. The 829-acre park has 10 other hiking trails for you to choose from, and a new state-of-the-art visitor center opening this summer!

DestinationDawsonville.com

Snooze the day away at the Amicalola Falls State Park & Lodge, which offers 57 resort-style rooms with panoramic views. For a more rustic experience, the Park has onsite cabin rentals, along with RV and tent campsites, and luxury glamping campsites through Timberline Glamping! Or, head out to Georgia’s only backcountry lodge, accessible only by a 5-mile trail from atop the falls. The Len Foote Hike Inn is a great place to relax after a long day outside, and meet new wayward friends.

CASCADES AT AMICALOLA FALLS STATE PARK

THE FALLS IN SPRING

A THRILL-PACKED STOP IN BOWLING GREEN, KY

When it comes to exploring the heart of Kentucky, look no further than Bowling Green. This vibrant city offers a captivating blend of history, automotive heritage, and a thriving cultural scene. From endless outdoor recreation to picturesque downtown streets lined with unique shops and eateries, Bowling Green is a place where the whole family can find their adventure.

A WARM WELCOME IN RUSSELL COUNTY, VA

Take a backroad to “The Heart of Southwest Virginia” for outdoor adventures the whole family can delight in. Around every corner in Russell County, Virginia are breathtaking hikes, thrilling kayak runs, and amazing ATV trails. Although, what makes Russell County so unique to visitors is the hospitality you are greeted with as soon as you cross the county line.

Kentucky is known for bourbon and horses, but Caves and Corvettes is what makes Bowling Green stand apart. Explore the 400+ miles of Mammoth Cave, the world’s longest known cave system, full of stunning geological formations.

Or, head to the Lost River Cave in

the middle of the city, and take an underground boat tour! Above ground, you’ll find miles of hiking trails, a butterfly habitat, dozens of local parks, and plentiful lake and river waters to delight in. Feel the need for speed at the Corvette Museum and GM Assembly Plant, where you can learn about automotive history, and drive a Corvette at NCM Motorsports Park.

PROXIMITY

• Nashville, TN - 65 miles S.

• Charlotte, NC - 200 miles SE

• Atlanta, GA - 350 miles SW

VisitBGKY.com

Make your first stop at The Great Channels Natural Area Preserve, where you can hike trail systems and discover historic rock formations. For waterlovers, head to Clinch River State Park, where you can kayak, canoe, or just relax in the river. Local recreational outfitters are available to help you with all your needs to get on the water, including taking you to various launch points along the river. Float your way down to other recreational towns like the town of Cleveland, Virginia, where you can find your spot to camp for

the night. Before you go, be sure to explore the mappedout, scenic backroads, popular with motorcycle and hot rod enthusiasts.

PROXIMITY

Mouthwatering Appalachian home cooking awaits you at Pat’s Kountry Diner in Lebanon, Virginia. This local favorite is just off Highway 19, making it an easy exit!

Spotsylvania is celebrating its 300th anniversary in 2021 with a series of programs

• Kingsport, TN - 50 miles SW

• Charlotte, NC - 200 miles SE

• Atlanta, GA - 350 miles SW

ExperienceRussellVA.com

DRIVE OR FLOAT THROUGH COUNTY LANDSCAPES

Beech Bend Amusement Park is just 1.5 miles away from I-65, making it a perfect stop for thrill seekers and families alike.

PIT

PHOTO CREDIT VIRGINIA TOURISM CORPORATION

PHOTO CREDIT VIRGINIA TOURISM CORPORATION

PHOTO CREDIT VIRGINIA TOURISM CORPORATION

MOUNTAIN BIKING, MUSIC, AND MORE IN PRESTONSBURG, KY

Welcome to the Mountain Biking Capital of Kentucky. In addition to the best mountain biking in the southeast U.S., within this small, creative Appalachian town are over 55 miles of hiking, biking, and horseback riding trails, river and lake waterways, and entertainment venues that will move you to your feet.

Prestonsburg hosts adventure from mountain peaks to valley shade. Sugarcamp Mountain Trails features Kentucky’s top intermediateadvanced mountain biking with 30 miles of hand-carved trails. For less elevation, the paved Prestonsburg Passage is one of the country’s newest rail trail systems that even features a school bus bridge at mile-7! The day isn’t over at sunset. Live music abounds at restaurants and the Mountain Arts Center. Prestonsburg is home to over 20 locally-owned tastebud-pleasing restaurants whether you crave fresh-ingredient burritos, downhome soupbeans and cornbread, or

A SHENANDOAH SUMMER IN ROCKINGHAM COUNTY, VA

Encompassing nearly one third of Rockingham County are designated public lands for the whole family to enjoy. The Shenandoah National Park and George Washington National Forest welcome outdoor enthusiasts of all forms to discover their combined 177,000 acres within the county. So, load up your vehicle of choice and prepare for a summer of lasting memories.

REST STOP

FORESTS AND FESTIVALS

smilemaking ice cream. There are a variety of lodging options including camping, short-term rentals, brand hotels, and Kentucky’s top state resort park.

Just off US 23 is The Brickhouse, a place known for its hotbrown pizza, Prestonsburger, and on tap brews. Stop here for lunch or dinner!

Spotsylvania is celebrating its 300th anniversary in 2021 with a series

Paddle the days away on the South Fork of the Shenandoah River, bike your way through the lush George Washington National Forest, or choose one of many hiking trails in Shenandoah National Park to kick things off.

• Louisville, KY - 190 miles W .

• Cincinnati, OH - 190 miles NW

• Indianapolis, IN - 300 miles NW

PrestonsburgKY.org

Spotsylvania is celebrating its 300th anniversary in 2021 with a series of programs

biking trails on the Western Slopes, and offers a more luxurious place to lay your head for the night. Or, reserve a spot at Endless Caverns Campground, and take an unforgettable cavern tour! The seven small towns in Rockingham County all offer their own unique charm through retail and dining experiences, and are home to dozens of summer festivals and lawn parties.

Just off Interstate 81, you can pick your own fresh produce at Overlook Produce and Farm Adventures. Rockingham County is, in fact, the largest agricultural producing county in Virginia!

Massanutten Resort also has great mountain

PROXIMITY PROXIMITY

• Washington, D.C. - 130 miles NE

• Richmond, VA - 140 miles SE

• Charlotte, NC - 305 miles S.

RockinghamCountyVA.gov

LIZZIEB’S

MASSANUTTEN RIDGE TRAILJOSHUA GOODEN

MOUNTAIN BIKING SUGARCAMP MOUNTAIN TRAILS

NICHOLAS JAMERSON PERFORMS AT MOUNTAIN ARTS CENTER

ENDLESS CAVERNS CAMPING

FIND YOURSELF IN PATRICK COUNTY, VA

In Patrick County, Va., every curve of the road leads to new adventures. The mix of peaks and valleys in these parts offers exciting hiking and biking trails, plentiful waters for paddling or fishing, and beautiful mountain overlooks. Grab your boots and find yourself here.

LONG DAYS OF PLAY

Hunt for staurolite crystals at Fairy Stone State Park. Hike the Rock Castle Gorge National Recreation Trail, just off the Blue Ridge Parkway. Get on the water at Philpott Lake. Ride the crosscountry mountain bike trails at I.C. Dehart Park.

PIT STOP!

Learn about the history of the longest active NASCAR racing team right off US route 58! At the Wood Brothers Racing Museum, you can check out fast cars, interesting memorabilia, and buy a piece of racing history in the gift shop.

Test your speed at the annual

Kibler Valley River Run. Get lost in the music at Floydfest, Front Porch Fest, Beach Music Festival, and other summer music festivals. After a long day of play, relax in luxury at Primland Resort and enjoy some of the many guided outdoor adventures they offer or find a more private escape with a cabin, B&B, or yurt.

PROXIMITY

• Raleigh & Durham NC - 130 miles SE

• Charlotte NC - 130 miles S.

• Washington, D.C. - 300 miles NE

VisitPatrickCounty.org

THE ANNUAL KIBLER VALLEY RIVER RUN IS A FIVEMILE DOWNRIVER RACE ON THE THIRD SATURDAY OF JULY EACH YEAR IN ARARAT, VA

PADDLE AROUND SERENE PHILPOTT LAKE WITH ITS 100 REACH 300,000 OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS IN OUR SEPTEMBER BIKING ISSUE! Space Reservation: August 1st Featuring: + Biking in the Blue Ridge + Colorful Fall Getaways + The Biking Adventure Guide Advertorial RESERVE YOUR SPACE TODAY ADVERTISE@BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM/ADVERTISE

MILES OF

In

Not

BAD BRANCH FALLS

Access: 2.5 mile trail

FLAT LICK FALLS

Access: .6 mile trail

COPPERAS FALLS

Access: 3.5 mile trail

DOG SLAUGHTER FALLS

Access: 2.4 mile trail

Photo: Dustin Robinson

Photo: Micah Smith

Photo: Steve Poynter

Photo: Dustin Robinson

Photo: Rodney Hendrickson

all precious gems are made of minerals.

TENNESSEE BEYOND THE SMOKIES

Avoid the national park crowds and explore these underrated gems in the Volunteer State

BY ALEXANDRA GARCIA

THE GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS are popular for a reason. The range features one of the most stunning stretches of Appalachia with big opportunities for adventure. But it also draws big crowds. Great Smoky Mountains National Park is the most visited in the country, and visitors also flock to nearby tourist towns Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg. But Tennessee also has plenty of terrain less traveled. To help you find it, a local adventurer shares her favorite spots.

CAMP Martha Sundquist State Forest

Nestled close to the TennesseeNorth Carolina border and just a few miles from the northern end of the Smokies is a hidden

natural gem of mature mountain and cove hardwoods perfect for family camping and hiking. The 2,000 acres that comprise the Martha Sundquist State Forest have accessible, well-maintained campsites available on a first-come first-serve basis. For an immersive natural experience in the only Tennessee state forest in the Blue Ridge region, set up camp by the water and hike the Tennessee Gulf Trail, an easy 3.5-mile footpath in the forest.

Frozen Head State Park & Natural Area

One of the most scenic areas in the Tennessee State Parks system, Frozen Head is a camping enthusiast’s dream spot. There are 20 primitive campsites with access to over 50 miles of pristine, unspoiled mountain trails that

lead you to gorges, rock outcrops, watering holes, and a fire tower with views as far as the Smokies. For a backcountry experience, pitch your tent at one of the nine sites spread around the 24,000 acres that make up the park. Reservations are required.

HIKE The Cumberland Trail

The Cumberland Trail will be on the radar of many longdistance hikers when complete, extending about 300 miles from its northern terminus in Cumberland Gap National Historical Park in Kentucky to its southern terminus at the Chickamauga-Chattanooga National Military Park located just outside Chattanooga. The scenic footpath follows a line of high ridges and deep gorges along or

near the rugged, eastern edge of Tennessee’s Cumberland Plateau. The trail is wild and sometimes very remote, with access points to popular spots that allow for day hiking opportunities like no other in the state. Scenic views, waterfalls, landscapes, gorges, wildlife, and widely varying flora are plentiful, and the crowds? Nonexistent.

Honey Creek Loop Trail

Lush and tropical, the Honey Creek Loop is an other-worldly trail deep in the Big South Fork State National River & Recreation Area. In just 4.5 miles with less than 1,000 feet of elevation gain, you’ll question whether you’re really in Tennessee when you hike through sheer rock walls, traverse through flowing water canyons, and enter and exit the woods near the river.

BY THE WATER

Kayak to the base of Burgess Falls

The Burgess Falls is a cascade waterfall on the Falling Water River located within Burgess Falls State Park in middle Tennessee. The waterfall spills approximately 130 feet into a large limestone gorge enclosed by sheer 100-200-foot walls. While hiking to the falls is a great experience, there’s no better way to truly capture its magic than by paddling straight to the base of the waterfall. If you don’t have your own gear, you can rent or go on a guided kayaking experience with Cumberland Kayak and Adventure Company. From their meetup point, it’s an easy drive to the Cane Hollow Recreation Area, where the easy flatwater paddle to the falls begins.

MOUNTAIN BIKE

Paint Mountain

Paint Mountain is home to some of the most remote mountain biking trails in Tennessee. You can access well-known spots on the trails, including the famous horseshoe viewpoint of the French Broad River, through singletrack or gravel roads up to the Lone Pine Gap and Paint Rock trailheads. Either way, be prepared for a lot of climbing, incredible views, and some of the best technical backcountry downhills in the state.

Knoxville’s Urban Wilderness

Fifteen years ago the outdoor scene in Knoxville was mainly farmland at the outskirts of town, but today the home base of the University of Tennessee Volunteers is a thriving adventure hub for anyone who enjoys spending time hiking, running, paddling, swimming, or cycling. Knoxville’s Urban Wilderness is a mountain biker’s dream destination, with everything from fast and flowy trails in Baker Creek Preserve to old school downhill or cross-country trails in the William Hastie Natural Area. The network of over 60 miles of trails has something for riders of all abilities. Check out the AMBC website to review trail conditions before planning a ride.

(TOP) KAYAKING TO BURGESS FALLS. (BOTTOM) THE DEVIL’S RACETRACK DOWNHILL TRAIL IN THE BAKER CREEK PRESERVE OF KNOXVILLE’S URBAN WILDERNESS. PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR

Outdoors. A refreshing air of possibility.

There’s a refreshing air of possibility in Tucker County. Whether you’re looking to discover breathtaking landscapes or immerse yourself in charming mountain towns, there’s adventure for everyone in Almost Heaven.

WVtourism.com/TuckerCounty

UPSTREAM FROM HERE

New science hints brook trout populations in Virginia are ready for a rebound

BY BJ POSS

THE EASTERN BROOK TROUT: among certain folks in the South as revered a treasure as Dolly Parton. Walk into any riverside general store from the Allegheny River of southern Pennsylvania to that top little caddy corner of Georgia, and I’d bet you a nickel you’ll find some fellas sipping coffee from a Styrofoam cup, waiting until the stream warms up for the morning hatch. Fly fishers are the last great purists, and if they’re worth their weight in soft hackle, they’ll be chasing brook trout.

You Should Have Been Here When

My first forays into fly fishing weren’t pretty. I was sliding around mossy rocks in my Chacos, spooking brookies so bad they’d start jumping to the next pool like sockeye salmon. After cursing the river for one single four-inch trout to snag my line, I’d sulk back to the local fly shop to ask what I did wrong this time. In one of those early inquiries, I was comforted, you went on the wrong day, mildly reassuring, because you should have been there 30 years ago

Thirty years ago is just about when the Clean Air Act went into effect, heavily contributing to a 90 percent decrease in sulfur dioxide emissions and deposition, as reported by Virginia Trout Stream Sensitivity Study (VTSSS). Leading to this, the U.S. industrial revolution cranked heinous levels of sulfur dioxide into the atmosphere, resulting in acid rain (precipitation at a pH of 4.4 or below, compared to the pH of normal, healthy rain at

5.6 pH), which effectively scalped forests and their water systems throughout Appalachia.

That kind of acid wrings the life out of a stream like you do a drydropper rig when your foam bit just won’t stay up. First, the little things go: the filtering nutrients growing on the underbellies of limestone streambeds, the micro insects, the mayflies, and all that eats those things up. Then the small brush along the river withers and the cover canopy’s thick hairline fades as the sun has more topwater surface time.

In turn, the water warms up and hangs out longer at that 65+ degree range where the brookies hunker down and hide from herons, invasive brown trout, and the stress that comes with being fooled by a buffet of false proteins tied to 6x tippet.

According to VTSSS, brook trout populations have diminished by an estimated 66 percent since they started collecting data in 1987, so it would seem 30 years ago was in fact the time to go fishing after all.

That’s disheartening for those of us who love to explore backcountry

streams with a fly rod. I don’t have the hard numbers on it, but I can’t imagine anglers tears dumped into the river do much to even out acid levels, and I’m certain they don’t plunge 20-inch natives back into the river from the clouds of fishy heaven. But there is hope.

Resilient Streams

Despite decades of pollutioninduced stress, the molecular health of Virginia streams is stronger than expected. In its 2021 survey, VTSSS,

ALL PHOTOS BY BJ POSS

led by the University of Virginia in partnership with Trout Unlimited, sampled water from approximately 450 stream sites in 34 counties, representing most of the mountain headwater streams in Virginia that support reproducing brook trout.

“Acid Neutralizing Capacity is an overall metric of stream chemical habitat health with a threshold of 50 microequivalents per liter or higher considered ‘suitable’ for aquatic biota,” explained Ami Riscassi, the survey’s senior research scientist

and projects coordinator. “Since monitoring began in 1987, we look for positive trends in ANC as well as negative trends in sulfate, the main acidifying agent in this region. Biologically, macro-invertebrates and fish have also been consistently

monitored at a subset of those streams.”

VTSSS reports that 86 percent of Virginia streams have improved molecular health, as median ANC levels have jumped from 62 to 85 percent across the state. For all that’s gone awry, these fish, these streams, are more resilient than we give them credit for.

“Conservation success in the short-term means maintaining the spatial distribution (occupied stream habitat) of brook trout that we currently observe,” Steve Reeser, VDWR Regional Fisheries Manager, told Blue Ridge Outdoors.

I wasn’t brookie fishing when the Clean Air Act was passed in 1972; I never stepped foot in a commonwealth stream when VTSSS started monitoring them in 1987. By the glory-days old-schoolers occupying the general store’s standards, I’m a newbie, a buzzy little non-aquatic pest wading in their stream, whose value only lies in that if there are eventually enough of me, they can tie my

pattern out of deer hair and feed it to the fishes.

How We Can Help

The afternoon bite awes me when the sky dims and the late-day sulfurs hatch. The steady pulsing of the buggy water pouring from one plunge pool to the next drains the mundane grievances moping around my mind. It comforts me to know that if it all were to go down the tube, long after clumsy-footed anglers finish their perpetual stumble through limestone streambeds with pockets full of hooks braided in yarn, that it would all come back little by little.

Until then, we anglers, hikers, and stream swimmers can do our part. “In my opinion, interested citizens can do the most to conserve and in some cases help restore brook trout populations by supporting cleaner/greener energy production, sustainable forestry management practices in the Appalachian Mountain Region, aquatic organism/fish passage

improvement projects, and prohibiting the spread of non-native or invasive species,” Resser explains.

Restoration of an ecosystem is a long, slow swim through a polluted stream of politics and preservation. What we do today won't result in reaching into the stream and pulling out more tomorrow or next month. But come back next year when you realize that biggin' in your favorite deep pool held over for another year, then you'll start to see.

We have the advantage of enough data over enough time to accept that, though things have been going in the wrong direction, they're not too far gone. We can sit back and enjoy the twilight years of brook trout or get up and be the catalysts of their resurgence. Steady ANC levels alone aren't

enough to save a species, but it creates an environment where they stand a chance and can take some punches, get up off the mat for another round, another dry summer, and another spawn.

Pulling a brook trout out of a clear limestone pool with an orange pumpkin belly and blue

halos spotted down its sides is the closest we'll ever get to holding the beating heart of Appalachia in our hands. Let it serve as a reminder of what can be, and still is, that a little colored-up fish slipping back into a shallow run is getting away with something, just by still being here at all.

THE OUT AND BACK TOUR GUIDE PERFECT STRANGERS

BY GRAHAM AVERILL

FUN FACT ABOUT FIREFLIES: they’re carnivorous during the larvae stage, but most turn into vegetarians when they get older, living off of nectar and pollen. And then there are some that don’t eat at all. They just exist to procreate. To quote one of the most enlightened bands of the ‘90s, Limp Bizkit, they “did it all for the nookie.”

I didn’t know this fact the other night when the lightning bugs popped up around my campsite, where I was resting after a long day of riding bikes through Pisgah National Forest. I was camping with two guys from Seattle, and it was their first time ever seeing the glowing insects. They were in awe of the little creatures, taking videos for their wives back home and throwing insightful questions at me as the bugs flickered around us.

“How long do they live?”

“What’s their geographic range?”

“How can you tell the different species apart?”

I didn’t know the answer to any of these questions at the time, so I just said, “I don’t know,” or “that’s a good question,” when they lobbed their queries at me. It had been like this for two straight days—the two of them asking me questions about the flora and fauna surrounding us, and me saying, “I don’t know.”

We were in the midst of a three-day bikepacking trip through Pisgah, riding a combo of gravel and the Blue Ridge Parkway, piecing together reasonable 30-mile days and camping at established campgrounds along the way. It was a big loop taking in some of the highlights that I thought these two West Coasters might appreciate— Looking Glass Overlook, Sliding Rock…Touristy stuff that always impresses. I designed it to be a beautiful entry to road and gravel touring in these parts.

I like riding bikes, especially multi-day routes, with new people. The miles of pedaling and occasional hardships of bikepacking give you

a lot of opportunities to get to know someone. In this instance, I learned that one of my new friends is allergic to carrots—he had to pick them out of his freeze-dried backpacking meal. I learned there are certain people in the world who stake out their tent before attaching the poles. Weird, right? We spent three days pedaling through the woods, getting to know each other by arguing about the superiority of bidets over toilet paper, comparing road trip playlists, and trading backpacking meal recipes.

It was their first time in the Southern Appalachians, and it was fun to watch them ogle the scenic views from the Blue Ridge Parkway or admire the impossibly green and lush forest that surrounded us on lonely gravel stretches. And they were truly impressed by the terrain, marveling at the big, granite thumb of Looking Glass Rock, which looks like a mistake in all that greenery, and taking countless pictures of the rolling peaks from every overlook on the Parkway. I always enjoy introducing new people to the Southern Appalachians—seeing the mountains through their eyes gives me a greater appreciation of my backyard. I like playing tour guide, dishing local lore and explaining the nuances of our culture here—how we put coleslaw on our pulled pork sandwiches, how roadside boiled peanut stands are above pedestrian health code inspections.

I pointed out distant peaks and gave them names. I told local history. I looked up at the sun and declared confidently that we were pedaling south. They don’t have things like dew and poison ivy in the Pacific Northwest, so I explained how dew is like an evil magic trick. It shows up out of nowhere, in the middle of the night, soaking everything you forgot to stash inside your tent. I helped them

identify poison ivy by sweeping my hand towards the green woods and declaring, “Everything you see is poison ivy. All of it.” I was a naturalist guide, happy to deliver my knowledge to an eager audience.

But as soon as the conversation shifted from casual observances that you could glean from a tourism brochure and my personal opinions to actual substantive topics about the region I’ve lived in for roughly two decades, I was clueless.

“What are those pink flowers?” They’d ask.

“Those are rhododendron,” I’d say, pausing before adding, “or mountain laurel. I can’t remember the difference.”

“Why is the horizon so hazy?” They’d ask.

“I don’t know. But it’s why the park is called the Smoky Mountains. I think.”

“What kind of bug is that?”

“What’s the apex predator in these mountains?”

“Why aren’t there any deer?”

If you ask me about the genus of local IPAs, I can give you a TED Talk, but insects? Birds? Trees? I know nothing of such things. And yet their questions kept coming. At one point,

one of my new friends brought me a small bug with a white butt in the palm of his hand and asked what it was. I was tired of saying, “I don’t know,” so I just made something up.

“That’s a species of mayfly,” I said. “We call it the white bellied booby. It’s totally venomous. Don’t let it bite you.”

It was frustrating being confronted with the fact that I’m completely ignorant about the land I call home. But it was also enlightening to travel through the Southern Appalachians with new eyes. They were absolutely astounded by little things, like the fact that our rivers have water in them all the time.

“They’re spring fed!?” They practically shouted with delight.

“Yeah,” I said, confused by their delight before realizing the rivers they’re used to are fed mostly by snowmelt and rain.

We live in an absolutely magical place. The rivers run year-round, the bugs light up, and there’s a Waffle House no less than seven miles away from you, all the time. It’s magical, I tell you. Sometimes, you just have to look at it all through fresh eyes. Just don’t let the white bellied booby bite.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

LET’S GO

BY DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

Quikr Stuff

Mach 2

This modular bike rack makes it simple to load up your ride—especially if you are hauling heavier e-bikes. You can add up to three trays onto the base rack and, best of all, the tray can pull out and be used as a ramp for quick loading of big bikes. $679; quikrstuff.com

Moosejaw

ComFortress 8-person

This 116-square-foot house of a tent features two rooms with a divider, offering plenty of separation between parents and kids (or just allowing for some privacy in bigger groups). Simple to set up despite its sprawling interior, its sturdy 150-denier floor can handle lots of stomping and will keep out the elements. Plus, the 51-squarefoot vestibule is as big as many family tents on its own and provides plenty of space to play games when the weather gets bad. $499 (with aluminum poles); moosejaw.com

Top Tree Herbs

Green Bali Kratom Tea

Need a little something to help you both relax and pep up, but want to avoid caffeine and alcohol? Say hello to kratom, an herb extracted

from a Southeast Asian evergreen, that can help you relax (though it has not been FDA tested and approved). Lab-tested and mixed with green tea here, it makes for the perfect beverage when you pull into camp after a long day behind the wheel. $19; toptreeherbs.com

Big Agnes

Diamond Park 15°

This big, cushy down sleeping bag is just what you want to snuggle into when you roll into road-trip camp. With plenty of room for tossers and turners, it accommodates both 25- and 30-inch-wide Big Agnes pads and will help ensure you are well rested when you wake up and get back on the road the next morning. $400; bigagnes.com

Nemo

Roamer Double Self-inflating Mattress

Make your tent a proper bedroom with this plush mattress for two that makes snuggling in sleeping bags and sharing the space feel natural. It’s a snap to inflate and features soft stretch fabric on the top and tough 75-denier fabric on the bottom. $400; nemoequipment.com

Flylow

Phil A

Every epic road trip deserves a shirt that looks the part—and can withstand the abuse of wearing it day after day. Made of 100% cotton, this classic will keep you looking and feeling cool behind the wheel. $80; flylowgear.com

Cotopaxi

Brinco Short

A failsafe pair of summer shorts that can deal with all conditions is mandatory when you head out into the great unknown. Made from 96% recycled nylon with a bit of Spandex for stretch, these versatile shorts are just the ticket for stops to hike, boulder, or hop in a swimming hole—and they’re comfy in the car. $65; cotopaxi.com

Summer is in full swing and it's time to hit the road in search of that perfect adventure. Here’s the gear to make the trip easier and more fun.

QUIKR STUFF

MOOSEJAW

TOP TREE HERBS

BIG AGNES

NEMO

FLYLOW

COTOPAXI

Ignik

20-pound Tank Case/Seat

That propane tank is a pain to stuff in with all your other gear. Pack it up in this nifty soft case so it doesn’t damage the stuff in the back of your vehicle. Oh, and it’s designed to be a seat when you are in camp. $75;ignik.com

Kavu

Alder Lake Tote

This catch-all mesh beach bag will be a godsend on a big trip, whether you pack it up with bathing suits and towels or snacks and other essentials you need nearby. The mesh dries in a hurry and doesn't hold sand. $55; kavu.com

Generac

GB1000

If you plan on living on the road, even for a short time, you may still need to plug in laptops or gear in camp or at a rest stop. Providing 1086Wh, the 35-pound unit offers up three AC plugs, USB-A and -C outlets and a display to track your charge time. $999; generac.com

Oru

PopLounge

Foldable kayak brand Oru, brought the same ingenuity behind its origami-style boats to a

new line of camp furniture it just launched on Kickstarter. The simple-but-sturdy chair folds up flat so it doesn’t take up a ton of space in your trunk, then transforms into the perfect camp or rest stop seat. $189; orukayak.com

Snow Peak

Entry Pack TT

Light and airy, this car camping tent includes a sprawling vestibule tarp that makes it easy to chill in camp during times of rainfall or bright sun. The four-person tent is a snap to set up thanks to a color-coded system and tent and tarp can be used separately depending on your needs. $600; snowpeak.com

Yeti

Rambler 26 oz

Always be hydrating: Follow this basic rule and your road excursions will all go smoothly (with a few bathroom breaks). Nigh-invulnerable, this double-wall vacuum-insulated water bottle can handle hot or cold drinks and be the one piece of gear you are most thankful to have out there on the highways. $40; yeti.com

Yakima

Yakima SkyRise HD Medium

We’re big fans of Yakima’s tent for the top of

your car, since you don’t have to always be beholden to campground reservations when you are out on the road. Just pull over in a legal spot or dispersed camping area and you are all set. Bomber 600-denier fabric and heavy waterproofing keep out the weather, and inside, a built-in sleeping pad makes it cozier to sleep on your car roof than on the ground. Plus, it’s intuitive and quick to set up. $1,999; yakima.com

Eureka

Ignite Plus Camp Stove

Roadside cuisine is certainly an art improved by the right cooking system. Packing down light and compact with two 10,000 BTU burners, this camp stove is most likely better than the stove in your last Airbnb. The push button igniter is safe and ideal for kids, and the stove actually cooks at a simmer when you need it. $160; eurekacamping.johnsonoutdoors.com

Katherine Homes Hats

The designs on artist Katherine Homes’ trucker hats give you some flair and protect you from sun and glare behind the wheel. We are partial to the jackrabbit and wolf models, which celebrate two very different icons of North American wildlife. $34–$39; katherinehomes.com

SNOW PEAK

YETI

KAVU

GENERAC

EUREKA

KATHERINE HOMES

IGNIK

ORU

YAKIMA

FESTIVAL PLAYLIST

Songs from Acts Performing at 4848 Festival

BY JEDD FERRIS AND DAVE STALLARD

IN EACH ISSUE OUR EDITORS curate a playlist of new music, mainly focusing on independent artists from the South. In July we’ve put together a special mix of tunes, all from artists performing at the jam- and roots-based 4848 Festival at West Virginia’s Snowshoe Mountain Resort from July 13-15.

GREENSKY BLUEGRASS

“Congratulations and Condolences”

Dynamic string band Greensky Bluegrass headlines two days of this year’s 4848 Festival. This track, a recently released B-side from their latest album, “Stress Dreams,” showcases the group’s knack for heartfelt Americana songcraft. With plaintive dobro runs shading the message, mandolin player Paul Hoffmann sings about life’s murky moments—the simultaneous instances of birth and death or success and failure—that result in feelings of bittersweet longing. In the live setting, this is the kind of song that provides a thought-provoking breather from one of Greensky’s extended acoustic jams. – J.F.

PAPPY

“Dig A Hole in The

Meadow”

Early risers at 4848 on Friday are in for a treat when Pappy kicks things off on the Boathouse Stage. When not shredding banjo for Cabinet, Patrick “Pappy” Biondo often performs as a solo project under his nickname, delivering experimental, banjo driven folk rock. “Dig A Hole in The Meadow,” which finds Biondi joined by guitar wizard Steve Kimock, is a fascinating take on an old time standard; it’s a safe bet that Flatt & Scruggs never envisioned the growling vocals, ominous banjo, electric guitar, and trippy synth effects heard here on this touchstone of Appalachian music. – D.S.

NORTH MISSISSIPPI ALLSTARS

“See the Moon”

Brothers Cody and Luther Dickinson have been pushing the boundaries of hill country blues since the late 90s. This lean, funky track from the band’s latest album, “Set Sail,” cruises with a confident strut and hypnotic guitar rolls, as Luther sings celebratory lyrics with special guests Lamar Williams Jr. and Sharisse Norman. It’s a fun party anthem that sounds like it was born in a juke joint, but it should also hit just right at a festival in the mountains. – J.F.

DOOM FLAMINGO

“Along for The Ride”

Festivalgoers should be prepared to dance into the early hours of Saturday morning with South Carolina’s Doom Flamingo. A side project of Umphrey’s McGee bassist Ryan Stasik that features the spectacular vocals of Kanika Moore, this is a band to stay up late with. “Along For the Ride” is a rave up dancer, with Moore’s vocals soaring over a manic rhythm, pushed by guitar, keyboards and horns that drive this tune’s energy to atmospheric levels. Festivarians, don’t sleep on this set—be sure to be at the Village Stage when Doom Flamingo kicks off at midnight on Friday. – D.S.

KARL DENSON’S TINY

“Something Sweet”

Soulful sax man Karl Denson has had quite the career, formerly working as a sideman for Lenny Kravitz and currently supplying brass notes on stage for the Rolling Stones. He also fronts his own funk crew, a festival mainstay with deep roots in the jam scene known for getting crowds moving. This hard-hitting banger from the group’s latest album, “Gnomes & Badgers,” exemplifies its prowess, combining the spacey aesthetic of Parliament with the in-the-pocket tightness of the Meters. Denson and company will play 4848’s final set at midnight on Saturday night. – J.F.

DANIEL DONATO’S COSMIC COUNTRY

“Ghost Riders in the Sky”

Nashville shredder Daniel Donato was just a teenager when he was performing regularly at Music City’s legendary honky tonk Robert’s Western World. With his Cosmic Country project, he’s taking his fleetfingered twangy guitar runs to new heights, showcasing his intent during this extended instrumental take on an old cowboy standard. What starts as a trot through a desert landscape escalates into a peak psychedelic rock trip as Donato works his fret board at a frenetic distorted pace. The eight-minute track is found on the 2021 album “Cosmic Country & Western Songs.” – J.F.

HOLLY BOWLING

“Tweezer”

Name someone in the jamband scene and pianist Holly Bowling has most likely collaborated with them. Classically trained, Bowling rose to prominence after transcribing and performing iconic Phish and Grateful Dead tunes on piano. Most notably, Bowling rendered a 37 minute “Tweezer,” note for note, on “Distillations of a Dream,” her 2015 album of Phish covers. Monstrous in both scope and ambition, Bowling’s retelling of the “Tahoe Tweezer” on piano is emblematic of both her talent and musical vision. – D.S.

GREENSKY BLUEGRASS

“Runnin’ the Briars”

Fresh off winning the Telluride Bluegrass Festival Band Competition in June 2006, Greensky Bluegrass, under the guidance of Railroad Earth’s Tim Carbone, released “Tuesday Letter.” Tucked in the second spot on the record is “Runnin’ the Briars,” three minutes of pure bluegrass fire. The band is off and running from the opening notes, with Michael Bont (banjo), Dave Bruzza (guitar), and Paul Hoffman (mandolin) absolutely trading sonic blows. The picking is tight and ferocious, offering listeners hints of what these bluegrass monsters were soon to become. – D.S.

To hear these songs and more, follow the Blue Ridge Outdoors’ Trail Mix playlist on Spotify.

GREENSKY BLUEGRASS HEADLINES THE 4848 FESTIVAL AT SNOWSHOE MOUNTAIN.

PHOTO COURTESY OF BIG HASSLE

WHERE ALMOST HEAVEN BEGINS

Harpers Ferry Bolivar Charles Town Shepherdstown

In Jefferson County, historic trails lead you along majestic rivers, through a national park, and to endless outdoor adventures. Our welcoming towns make you feel at home and sometimes a voice from the past will echo in the breeze. Jefferson County is your first step to exploring West Virginia. Take it and you will quickly realize this is Where Almost Heaven Begins.

Your next paddling adventure awaits in Charlottesville & Albemarle County!

Paddle the waters of the Rivanna River, located in the heart of the city. Or visit the river town of Scottsville, situated along the mighty James. After your day of adventuring, explore one of the region’s 40+ wineries along the Monticello Wine Trail, or discover your new favorite craft beer on the Charlottesville Ale Trail. Then rest up and recharge at one of the area’s inns, bed & breakfasts, hotels, or resorts for another day of fun on the water.

PLAN YOUR OUTDOOR ADVENTURE TODAY