Blue Ridge Outdoors September 2018 by Summit Publishing

MARION • LAKE JAMES • LITTLE SWITZERLAND • LINVILLE FALLS • OLD FORT

Sept. 3 Sept. 8

Sept. 15

Oct. 6

Oct. 13

Rock Fest/Emerald Village - Little Switzerland

1st Annual Bigfoot Festival - Marion

Marion Cruise-In - Marion

Marion Monsters & Mayhem - Marion Old Fort Fall Festival - Old Fort

35th Annual Mountain Glory Festival - Marion Fall Arts and Crafts Market - Little Switzerland

Details and other events are online. 888-233-6111

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Terrain for all types.

SEPTEMBER 2018

F E AT U R E S D E PA R T M E N T S 13

QUICK HITS

Bad driver fakes jogging to evade police • Nineyear-old girl plans thruhike for charity • City cycling studied • Hawks soar the Southern skies this month • Outdoor recreation provides more jobs than coal, oil, and gas

JESS DADDIO

THE NEED FOR SPEED

As more athletes chase FKTs and speed records, some hikers are asking: is the A.T. becoming a race track? 23

THE SOUTH’S BEST BIKING HUBS

ARE YOU DRINKING COAL ASH?

The International Mountain Bike Association just named its newest bike center: the Virginia Blue Ridge near Roanoke. How does it compare to the other must-shred singletrack in the region? Plus: BRO picks its five future ride centers.

VIEWS

Water near Duke’s coal ash ponds is toxic, nearby rivers are laced with carcinogens, and the state is weakening regulations. Is your favorite swimming or fishing hole becoming a toxic soup?

THE GOODS

Can the outdoors bridge a widening political gap? Trail blazer Peter Mills picks his favorite biking gear. 58

TRAIL MIX

Rayland Baxter opens up on his new album, Wide Awake.

THE ELEPHANTS OF MIDDLE TENNESSEE

Just 85 miles southwest of Nashville, elephants roam the rolling countryside. How did one of the world’s most endangered animals find a home in the hills of Tennessee? 47

BROOKIES ARE MAKING A COMEBACK

Native brook trout are returning to Appalachian streams, thanks to the effort of anglers and conservationists.

BEYOND BEER: THE BEST DRINKS IN THE BLUE RIDGE

From outlaw moonshine and hard cider to modern-day kombucha and sake, Appalachia’s long tradition of locally made libations is in the national spotlight. What are the Southern secrets to producing the country’s best beverages?

800-933-PARK (7275) | www.virginiastateparks.gov

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North Carolina Appalachian Trail

License Plate Application

How Much Does It Cost?  $30 Regular Appalachian Trail plate*  $60 Personalized Appalachian Trail plate* You are allowed four (4) spaces for a personalized message. __ __ __ __ 2nd Choice __ __ __ __ 3rd Choice __ __ __ __ 1st Choice Name (as shown on certificate of title): FIRST

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LAST

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 You must already have the vehicle registered in North Carolina.  You receive a FREE ATC Membership with the purchase of your NC AT Tag.  *The $30 or $60 annual fee is in addition to regular annual license fees you have already paid.  Personalized tags may be relinquished to someone else, but once a numerical tag expires without renewal, that number can never again be reissued.  If you change your mind, you can go back to a regular license plate at any time. There will not be a refund of unused portion of special fees.  Additional applications can be found online at

BODY STYLE

I've twice observed big cats up close out West. Both encounters were not scary but interesting, much like a black bear encounter here. Perhaps the size of a cougar depends on the size and availability of its prey. Darwin noted the same species of birds with different outward appearances based on survival needs. —Don McMahill

HORSES, HIKERS, AND BIKERS All user groups have examples of poor stewardship. Horseback riders can damage the trail, leave trash at backcountry campsites, ride horses that weren't properly adapted to bridles, or ride trails in a way that are a danger to other users. My point is that these little personal accounts of bad behavior by cyclists are not helpful in the grand scheme of protecting public lands. Once we start trying to exclude user groups from our public lands, we lose an advocate of our public lands. —Cody Edrington

FREE-RANGE PARENTING My kid just turned 4, and we were riding our bikes this evening. He was about 100 feet ahead of me, smashed his chin, and got three stitches. If I was right there may have been a different outcome. But I wasn’t—and I won’t be any more protective next time, because kids learn. He’ll learn. He knows to get back up and try again. —Kelly Fogarty Some of the headlines about negligence statutes being used against parents are laughable. I know our world is more dangerous than it used to be, but common sense should rule. It's sad that we have to have state laws outlining freedoms like this. —Andy Johnston

TA L K B AC K TO U S H E R E :

www.appalachiantrail.org

Owner’s Certification of Liability Insurance I certify for the motor vehicle described above that I have financial responsibility as required by law.

They are here. I’ve had sightings myself. Leave them be. There is plenty of food and land for them. —Kevin Lamb

Growing up rule of thumb was: if you could not hear my dad whistle from the front porch (and that thing had a range!) you were too far from the house. It saddens me to think that my kids are not going to have the same freedom to play and explore. —Ashley Marie

The Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) now has a specialty license tag in the state of North Carolina. By getting your tag today, you’ll help the ATC protect and maintain America’s Facts Favorite Long Distance Trail! The ATC will receive $20 annually for each AT plate purchased or renewed.

MOUNTAIN LIONS IN APPALACHIA Not convinced. Until I see a real photo, not of a bobcat, then they aren’t here on the East Coast. —Steve Toots

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The 4 th Annual

Are Speed Records Wrecking the A.T.? BY DAN DEWITT

camping, live music, beer + food, campfires, vendors, and more!

A celebration of the Southeast's van life community, Benefitting

september

21-23, 2018 @ junebug retro resort

How fast is too fast? It’s a common question on the Appalachian Trail. That was especially true when I hiked a section in midJuly, because I asked it of just about everyone I met. Harvey Lewis, a schoolteacher from Cincinnati, was just then wrapping up an unsuccessful assault on the A.T. thru-hiking record. Such attempts have become so frequent and well-publicized in recent years that the nation’s most revered hiking trail now sees double duty as an ultramarathoning track. So, is that okay? No, several hikers told me. The A.T. is not just a trail but a shrine to selfdiscovery and contemplation, a “refuge from the crassitudes of civilization,” according to Benton MacKaye, the conservationist who came up with the idea of the Appalachian Trail. If haste and competition are among those crassitudes, then bringing them to the A.T. can seem downright tacky. “The A.T. was built to be savored and enjoyed,” said Todd Engels, 53, a day hiker I met just north of the famous trail town, Hot Springs, N.C. Treating it as a racecourse “fails to appreciate the majesty for which and with which it was

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created by Mr. MacKaye.” On a recent A.T. section hike, he said, the practice of racing on the trail “was a big topic of discussion at the shelters.” And when two teenage trail runners arrived at a campsite suffering from hypothermia, Engels’ fellow hikers helped them only grudgingly. “There was this general resentment towards them, like, ‘Why are you running the Appalachian Trail?’ There are other trails you can run,” he said. A refuge is just what the A.T. is, said Phil Ayres, 48, a pastor of a nondenominational church in Florida, at a campsite a few miles farther north. It’s a venue for connecting with both nature and with humans on different terms than at home. “You meet all these people and you don’t jump into politics and how you feel about Trump. It’s usually talking B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S

trail stories and gear. It’s about the adventure.” You can’t do that in a rush, Ayres said, and this being the weekend of the MLB All-Star Game, the Home Run Derby made a convenient point of comparison. “Baseball has a rhythm and it’s not fast paced and that’s what makes it great. The Home Run Derby is kind of fun, but it’s not baseball,” he said. “The trail running thing (on the A.T.) is kind of fun, it’s kind of interesting, but it’s not really hiking.” My preferred analogy is eating. A big hike, like a big meal, can be a good thing. But somewhere along the line, record chasers brutalizing their bodies with a succession of 50-mile days start to seem like Joey Chestnut packing his face with hot dogs. It’s clearly too much. G O O U TA N D P L AY

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Not if that’s how they want to hike, said Wayne Watts, 36. He teaches theory of knowledge at a Utah high school. His trail name, “Socks,” is a mangled abbreviation of Socrates. He hiked the middle section of the trail in 2016 shortly after his younger brother had committed suicide. Many of his fellow hikers had been through similar traumas and found peace in the trail’s greatest gift, he said, the freedom to “hike their own hike.” Watts said he met a backpacker with a heart condition who was happy to walk a few miles each day. “I also met this guy named Bambi and he was just hopping down the trail, dude. He was fast!” But after putting in a few 30-mile days, Watts said, Bambi “liked getting into town and getting into a bar and spending a week getting drunk. That was his hike and that was cool.” Joe “Stringbean” McConaughy, who set the overall speed record last year both unsupported and under the radar, is usually praised as the racer who stayed truest to the spirit of the trail. Famed ultramarathoner Scott Jurek, on the other hand, was widely criticized for his corporate sponsorships and the unseemly celebration of his 2015 record at the A.T.’s northern terminus, Mount Katahdin, in Maine.

Watts wondered why anybody cared. “If I see Scott Jurek running by me for like two seconds, how the hell is that going to bother me?” Watts, who had recently put in a 29-mile day while wrapping up an eight-week “yo-yo” hike from Sam’s Gap north of Asheville to the southern end of the trail and back, also pointed out the obvious about hiking: physical challenge is part of the appeal. “I like the feeling of accomplishment at the end of a big, long day,” he said. Even pursuing the most extreme challenge doesn’t keep racers from loving and respecting the trail, said Aaron Saft, the owner of Asheville’s Foot Rx running store, whom I called after my hike. Saft has never attempted an A.T. thru-hike record but as one of the region’s top ultramarathoners, he appreciates the “amazing” level of fitness required. He also knows that these runners take as much pleasure in the “experience and the views as any thru-hiker does,” said Saft, 40, who is also a trail maintenance volunteer and race organizer. “We might not be stopping at an overlook and resting. We might just take a moment and take a look, but

that’s part of the enjoyment, just being out on the trail and moving forward.” In fact, the fastest record seekers and the slowest backpackers are far more similar than they are different, said Morgan Elliott, 26, of Asheville, another of the area’s top trail runners. “They both enjoy being out in nature. They share a goal of pushing themselves. They both end up on the trail looking for something,” he said. “I’m going to call it happiness, because that’s what everybody is looking for.” Greater self-awareness is another common goal, and as I walked, I realized my hypocrisy in judging racers. To the extent that I am able, I’ve always been a bit of a racer, too. I started out this hike that way. My first full day was a big one, at least for me. But looking at the map in Hot Springs, I realized that I couldn’t go as far as I wanted in the next two days without subjecting my wife to a sketchy, late-evening pickup at a remote road crossing. So I settled into a 14-mile day, realizing that the advocates of moderation also have a point, that pushing for miles necessarily comes with downsides. The biggest of these, hands down, has been turning hikes into objects

of dread for my now-grown sons. “Sounds miserable,” my younger one said when I’d told him about my plans for this trip. On the previous day’s hike, I’d put off stopping to tend to a hot spot until it grew into a bloody blister. Going light on water in the interest of speed had burdened me with worries about the distance to the next water source. That and other time-and-mileage-related matters was pretty much the extent of my interactions with other hikers. On my shorter day, I struck up most of the conversations I’ve recorded in this story. I took time to rest under a particularly inviting pond-side oak and stopped regularly to try to identify birds, mushrooms, and understory plants. It was a novelty, reaching camp in mid-afternoon with a sensation other than exhaustion. I cooked a decent meal and built up some good trail karma by helping another crew of hikers clean out a filthy shelter. Because my next day was my last day, and easy, I volunteered to pack out the trash. And if, as I headed out, Jurek had rushed by me, on his way to a night in an RV and a hot vegan meal, it wouldn’t have bothered me one bit.

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Your spirit will soon be heading northbound.

A train tour in West Virginia is a guaranteed mood lifter. Hop aboard and see what an explosion of fall color does for your outlook. From the scenic New River Gorge to the forests of Cheat Mountain, autumn feels downright heavenly in West Virginia.

Cass Scenic Railroad State Park

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QUICK HITS BY JEDD FERRIS + RACHEL HICKS

JOBS, JOBS, JOBS

In the South, recreation provides far more jobs than coal, oil, gas, or timber. Here is a breakdown of outdoor recreation revenue by state and how it compares to other industries. NORTH CAROLINA

$28 BILLION

Outdoor recreation generates $3.1 billion consumer spending than all financial services and insurance ($24.9 billion) in North Carolina SOUTH CAROLINA

$16.3 BILLION

Outdoor recreation provides 151,000 in South Carolina, which is 43,000 more jobs than the automotive industry and aerospace industry combined (108,000)

NAME THAT SUMMIT

This rocky overlook atop Catawba Mountain offers one of the most photographed vistas along the Appalachian Trail. E M A I L YO U R R E S P O N S E TO

submit@blueridgeoutdoors.com F O R A C H A N C E TO W I N F R E E B R O S WAG !

NINE-YEAR-OLD GIRL PLANS A.T. THRU-HIKE FOR CHARITY

Alexandria Amadoro from Hamburg, Pennsylvania, spent the summer training for an upcoming thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail, a journey she’s undertaking in an effort to raise more than $3 million for St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital. As a child, she saw a fundraising letter from the hospital and asked her parents why the child on the paper had no hair. When she found out about kids with cancer, she ran to her piggybank and wanted to make a donation. Now she’s hoping to make a much bigger one by blending her love of hiking with a desire to help others (Fundraising efforts have already started at goalexandriago.org). “We always tell her to dream big so we have to support her,” Alexandria’s father, Eddie, told the Kutztown Area Patriot. Eddie will join Alexandria when she attempts a complete hike of the nearly 2,200-mile trail from Georgia to Maine next spring. Meannwhile, she’s been training on portions of the trail near home with day hikes and one 70-mile multi-day backpacking trip. She’s also been meeting current thru-hikers, and, with her family, assisting with acts of Trail Magic. Of getting acquainted with other A.T. hikers she said: “It makes me realize that you’re never alone, that you always have someone there rooting you on and that those hikers become your friends. You can really depend on them to be there when you need them.”

GEORGIA

VISIT VIRGINIA'S BLUE RIDGE

Whitewater Center Adds

Protected Land

$27.3 BILLION

Outdoor recreation provides 238,000 jobs in Georgia, which is 31,000 more jobs than the state’s entire auto industry (207,000)

$14.0 BILLION

ALABAMA

In June, the U.S. National Whitewater Center added 193 acres to its gradually expanding property. With help from $1 million awarded by North Carolina’s Clean Water Management Trust Fund, the recreation hub, located northwest of Charlotte, acquired the land in partnership with the Catawba Lands Conservancy. Through an easement, the land addition also grows the conservancy’s 1,060-acre Long Creek conservation area, which helps protect the watershed of the nearby Catawba River. The acquisition also added 1.5 miles to the steadily developing Carolina Thread Trail.

HURRICANEDISPLACED CYCLIST GETS FRESH START IN VIRGINIA

After living with no electricity or running water for four months, a result of the devastating aftermath of Hurricane Maria, Andres Pertierra decided to it was time to leave his long-time home in San Juan, Puerto Rico. So in June he joined his wife, who moved ahead of him, to start a new life in Williamsburg, Va. To help himself get adjusted, Pertierra, 50, is planning to concentrate on his passion for cycling, particularly training aspiring riders. In Puerto Rico he spearheaded a program called PowerClad, which focused on cycling endurance and safety, and he recently started a similar group program in Virginia. Pertierra now leads riders every Sunday morning from the local Studio A Fitness, where his wife works. In a story in the Williamsburg Yorktown Daily, he said teaching cycling is helping him get acquainted with his new home: “It feels weird because we’re in a brand new place but Williamsburg people are amazing, they are so welcoming.”

Outdoor recreation provides 135,000 jobs in Alabama, which more than twice as many jobs as the auto industry (57,000) TENNESSEE

$21.6 BILLION

Outdoor recreation provides 188,000 job in Tennessee, which is 62,000 more jobs than auto manufacturing (126,000) P E N N S Y LVA N I A

$29.1 BILLION

Outdoor recreation provides more than three times as many jobs in Pennsylvania (251,000) as the natural gas industry (72,000) MARYLAND

$14 BILLION

Outdoor recreation sustains a comparable number of jobs in Maryland (109,000) to IT and cybersecurity (117,000) VIRGINIA

$21.9 BILLION

Outdoor recreation provides 197,000 jobs in Virginia, which is more than all of the software developers, web developers, and systems and cyber security analysts combined (105,000) WEST VIRGINIA

$9 BILLION

Outdoor recreation provides 91,000 jobs in West Virginia, which is nearly twice as many jobs as the coal industry (49,000) KENTUCKY

$12.8 BILLION

Outdoor recreation provides 9,000 jobs in Kentucky, over twice as many as distilling (4,300)

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Go Gaston. Get Outside.

LEISURE BIKING Lineberger Park 632 E. Garrison Blvd. Gastonia, NC 704-866-6839 Seven Oaks Preserve Trail 6900 S. New Hope Rd. Belmont, NC 704-342-3330 x209 South Fork Trail 149 Willow Dr. McAdenville, NC 704-342-3330 x209

MOUNTAIN BIKING Bessemer City Park Trail 220 S. 14th St. Bessemer City, NC 704-833-0385 George Poston Park 1101 Lowell Spencer Mountain Rd. Gastonia, NC 704-922-2160 Kings Mountain Gateway Trail 807 S. Battleground Ave. Kings Mountain, NC 704-734-0333 Mountain Island Tailrace Park Trail 300 Mountain Island Rd. Mt. Holly, NC 704-951-3005 Rocky Branch Park 221 W. Woodrow Ave. Belmont, NC Seven Oaks Preserve Trail 6900 S. New Hope Rd. Belmont, NC 704-342-3330 x209 U.S. National White Water Center 5000 Whitewater Center Pkwy. Charlotte, NC 704-391-3900

OAD BIKING

ROAD BIKING South Main Cycles 4 N. Main St. Belmont, NC 704-825-8585

BIKE SHARE For the outdoor enthusiast in all of us, Gaston County offers many opportunities for you to explore on two wheels. Let us help you unplug this weekend and connect you with our County’s numerous natural assets. Stop by our Visitors Center or call us today for a FREE Visitor’s Guide. 620 N. Main St., Belmont, NC | 704-825-4044 | #gogaston | gogaston.org |

Gaston County Visitors Center 620 N. Main St. Belmont, NC Dallas Park 1303 Dallas Cherryville Hwy. Dallas, NC Highland Rail Trail Corner of N. Broad St. & E. Long St. Gastonia, NC George Poston Park 101 Lowell Spencer Mountain Rd. Gastonia, NC Lineberger Park 632 E. Garrison Blvd. Gastonia, NC

QUICK HITS BAD DRIVER FAKES JOGGING TO EVADE POLICE

In July, an unidentified 19-year-old man flipped his car in Madison, Wisconsin, and then tried to avoid responsibility after fleeing the scene by removing some clothes and pretending to be a runner. Police Chief Mike Koval told the Wisconsin State Journal: “The suspect driver fled and stripped some clothing, but was caught by officers after he initially claimed he was an uninvolved jogger.” Fortunately nobody else was involved when the driver hit a curb after over-correcting a turn; he was ticketed for failure to have control, hit and run, and operating a vehicle after license revocation. According to police, he was not impaired.

HAWK EYES SCAN THE SKIES THIS SEPTEMBER BY BRIAN COOKE

IF VIC LAUBACH DOESN’T HAVE TO WORK AND

the rain holds off, he is probably at Rockfish Gap, Milepost 0 on the Blue Ridge Parkway counting birds of prey. “When raptors migrate,” explains Laubach, Rockfish Gap Hawk Watch Coordinator, “they all follow common paths, and we can get good population counts.” The same mountain ridges that give us big views act as “leading lines” for migration, providing raptors, like hawks, eagles, vultures, and falcons, the weather conditions needed for long-distance travel. If you’re a bird traveling all the way to South America, says Laubach, “you don’t want to flap your wings the whole time.” Instead, many raptors “kettle” in mesmerizing circles of invisible columns of rising hot air called thermals or soar along slopes when northwesterly winds collide with northeast-southwest ridgelines. August begins with a trickle of birds. Numbers peak for two weeks in September, when thousands of broad-winged hawks can pass in one day. Diversity peaks in October and November, with high numbers of vultures, eagles, sharp-shinned hawks and red-tailed hawks. All that data is compiled with the Hawk Migration Association of North America alongside the data from hundreds of other volunteer hawk watch locations. “We hope it’s [data] being used by scientists,” says Laubach. The reality, he continues, is that data shows

downtrending raptor populations resulting from “loss of habitat and food sources,” and those issues will likely be further impacted by climate change. Some changes, however, are more interesting than concerning, like rebounding bald eagle populations and more Mississippi kite sightings. There’s certainly no shortage of places to sit back and watch the skies, but here are five places, north to south, where every fall is hawkwatch season.

HAWK MOUNTAIN SANCTUARY K E M P TO N , PA

A cornerstone of raptor conservation, Hawk Mountain Sanctuary was actually once a hawk hunting ground. Today, the North Lookout at the 2,600-acre preserve is a well-known (read: crowded) hawk watch, so hike to East Rocks instead. Start at the Visitor Center, making a 4-mile loop using the Lookout, Skyline, River of Rocks, and Golden Eagle trails.

ROCKFISH GAP HAWK WATCH A F TO N , VA

Located at the Inn at Afton along Blue Ridge Parkway, Laubach sees Rockfish Gap as an accessible option. “Anyone can drive up and look up” to see passing raptors, and volunteers are regularly available to share spotting scopes and information. Laubach enjoys October when diversity means “you could see anything” and the weather starts to cool.

HANGING ROCK TOWER RAPTOR O B S E R VATO R Y, U N I O N , W V

Hanging Rock Tower, the only official hawk watch site in West Virginia, is high atop Peters Mountains (elevation 4,073’) along the almost-finished, 330-mile Allegheny Trail. The 2-mile round trip hike from Limestone Hill Road to the tower is steep, but you’ll be rewarded with 360-degree views and a small, dedicated group of hawkwatchers. Post hawkwatch, stay for the sunset.

MAHOGANY ROCK OVERLOOK S PA R TA , N C

No hike necessary at Mahogany Rock Overlook (Milepost 235) where the Blue Ridge Birders set up in the grassy pull off with an almost 360-degree view. Thanks to a few dedicated volunteers, this site became North Carolina’s first official hawk watch in 1986. It’s still a great place to stop and learn a little from regulars.

CAESARS HEAD STATE PARK C L E V E L A N D, S C

The “Wing Nuts” of the Greenville County Bird Club spend fall hawkwatching at 3,226-foot Caesars Head and its 180-degree view into the South Carolina Piedmont. The Main Overlook is accessible by a short walk from the parking area, where Tim Lee, Naturalist at South Carolina’s Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area, recommends looking north back over the ridge to track raptors as they pass over.

“I love to rock climb in my spare time, and I think we’ve created something pretty special.” —Country music star Kip Moore on the opening of BedRock at the Red, his new hiking and climbing lodge located in Rogers, Kentucky, that offers prime access to the premier routes of the Red River Gorge.

BIG MONEY

Outdoor recreation generates 7.6 million national jobs, almost $900 billion in consumer spending, $65.3 billion in federal tax revenue and $59.2 billion in state and local tax revenue.

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Initial findings of a recent study revealed cyclists are breathing in significantly more air pollution than people who are using alternative modes of transportation. The concern: inner-city pollution may be outweighing the health benefits of cycling. So far, dozens of cyclists in New York City have been recruited for the five-year study. They’re each wearing a gadget that measures how much soot they’re consuming per day. When soot penetrates deep into the lungs and bloodstream, it heightens the risk for respiratory illnesses like asthma and lung cancer. At rest, an average person breathes in eight liters of air per minute. While cycling, that increases to 70 liters per minute. Preliminary results have found that cycling behind cars increases pollution intake versus cycling beside traffic, so the study hopes to inspire more bike-friendly paths.

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VIEWS

CULTURE CLASH CAN THE OUTDOORS BRIDGE A WIDENING SOCIOPOLITICAL GAP?

The sun is shining, the temperature is perfect, and the stars are lining up for an action-packed day of adventure out in the woods. But as you pull into the trailhead parking lot, you see it: The vehicle bearing an assortment of bumper stickers that push your buttons in all the wrong ways. Oh, no. You’ve argued a million times with people like this on Facebook, and it never ends well. So what happens now? Are you going to cross paths out on the trail? This is a moment that many of us have experienced in some way, at a trailhead or in town. The little computers we carry everywhere have reshaped our perception of the world. In social media discussions, conversations tend to tilt to the extreme ends of the spectrum, and it’s easy to project that dichotomy onto the world. Politics has increasingly become a team sport that overshadows every aspect of culture. Are you a Democrat

BY MASON ADAMS

or Republican? Urban or rural? Extractive or non-extractive user of the outdoors? The polarization seems more severe than ever. However, these divides go back decades and even generations. In the early 1900s, during Teddy Roosevelt's administration, a divide took shape between Gilford Pinchot, conservationist and founder of the U.S. Forest Service, and John Muir, preservationist and poet. That divide defined much of the 20th century: Are forests important for feeding sawmills or feeding our souls? Answer: Both and neither. In the 21st century, that dichotomy has evolved. Timber interests still exist, but they now share an extractive interest in public lands with oil and gas. Pipelines are cutting gashes across national forests to move natural gas from wells to market. The Sagebrush movement wants the federal government to hand off its land holdings to states and private interests. Even within the outdoor community, conflicts routinely erupt between various user groups. Beside the traditional divide between extractive users—mainly hunters and some anglers—and non-extractive users— most everyone else—we’ve seen narrower disputes, such as in the

ongoing political fight over whether mountain bikers should be allowed to ride in federal wilderness areas. And yet, the outdoors community really shares more in common than it realizes. “There’s only one America,” said Audrey Peterman, president and co-founder of Earthwise Productions, Inc., an environmental consulting and publishing firm focused on connecting people with public lands. “The land doesn’t lie. The land is literally the firmament that we inhabit together. It bears the record of everyone and everything that has ever lived on this continent.” That includes the Native Americans, who once inhabited every national park and forest. We often choose to forget that colonists drove Native Americans out of our most celebrated landscapes, including Yosemite, the Grand Canyon, and the Smokies. More recently, the United States dictated who got to visit what land under what conditions for decades. The legacy of slavery, lynchings, and Jim Crow laws still overshadow the outdoors today. When I first started mountain biking in the early 1990s, I often rode in Virginia's Longdale Recreation Area, on the east end of my native Alleghany

County. I had a vague knowledge of the site’s history from 1940 to 1963 as Green Pastures Recreation Area, a segregated spot intended for African Americans who were denied access to public wildlands elsewhere. My friends and I rode singletrack with reckless abandon—and with the privilege of white kids who didn't have to wrestle with the recreation area’s history to enjoy it. People of color don’t have that luxury, though. The historical barriers placed between them and the outdoors linger through oral histories that have preserved ancestral memory. Audrey Peterman tells a story that shows how that history manifests on public lands today. “I’ve had the luxury of visiting 184 units of the National Park System from Alaska to the U.S. Virgin Islands,” Peterman said. She and her husband Frank decided to take a road trip around the country to know its natural wonders. "That journey marked a defining time in our lives, as we saw thousands of foreigners enjoying spectacular lands—and less than a handful of black or brown Americans.” The Petermans work to empower people of color to explore public wildlands. Attending one of the

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INSIGHTS Petermans' recent lectures was Tamia Dame, an undergraduate student at the University of North Carolina at Asheville. “As a woman of color with a love for Mother Earth, I, too, question the racial demographics I’ve observed in most outdoor spaces,” Dame wrote last month in Mountain Xpress. “My favorite outdoor activity is hiking the Appalachian Mountains, and similar to the Petermans, it’s rare for me to see another person of color along any given trail.” Dame grew up near the Blue Ridge Parkway in Lenoir, North Carolina, but she told me it wasn’t until last year that she started to closely examine the relationship between African Americans and the outdoors. “I feel like the outdoor culture is very cohesive, but it’s not necessarily inclusive,” Dame said. “I feel like most of the divide comes from the presumed idea of an outdoor enthusiast. If you go hiking, more than likely everybody you pass on the trail has a specific appearance. You know immediately they’re comfortable with and equipped to be outdoors. It sometimes makes

me feel out of place. I can’t afford all the same supplies. I can’t imagine how it makes people feel who have even less than I do." "The outdoors is an important experience for everyone to have," Dame continues. "It is an escape from the real world. The real world isn’t especially nice, and for the people whom the real world is most especially not nice to, it’s important for them to have a getaway and feel comfortable and feel like they have the right to be outdoors.” Dame’s essay raised some people’s hackles. Acknowledging race and the cultural barriers that often go unnoticed in the outdoor community can be uncomfortable. And when white supremacists regularly book space in Tennessee state parks—as they regularly have over the last few years— the conversation is an important one.

ention “division in the outdoors community” and many people think immediately of the conflict between extractive and non-extractive users. Through the first half of the 20th

century, “outdoor recreation” was often used as shorthand for sportsmen, mainly hunters and fishermen. That has changed significantly as hiking, biking, paddling, climbing, running, and other non-extractive activities have grown rapidly while the number of hunting and fishing licenses has declined. Many still fall back on the extractive/non-extractive split as the defining division of the outdoors. Longtime Roanoke Times outdoors writer Mark Taylor, who left the paper to work for Trout Unlimited a few years ago, dismisses it as overblown. “Historically and traditionally, it’s been more of a perceived divide than a real divide,” Taylor said. “If we are out there enjoying the outdoors, no matter how we’re doing that, we have more in common than not. A guy whose number-one passion is hunting deer, if he is to boil down what his priorities are and why he enjoys the act of hunting deer, he’s going to get a lot of the same answers as the guy whose number-one priority is mountain biking.” Taylor has always blurred the lines, enjoying hunting and fishing as well

as trail running and biking. He notes that in the West, where he grew up, the distinction has become even more blurry, with hunters now frequently using mountain bikes to access backcountry destinations. Experiences in the West also shaped the perceptions of James Revercomb, co-owner of Roanoke Mountain Adventures. He didn’t really hunt while growing up in western Virginia, but after heading west to guide Snake River whitewater trips at age 19, the allure of backcountry western hunts brought him into the culture. Since returning to Roanoke to start his outfitting business in 2015, Revercomb said he’s met a lot of hunters, a lot of non-consumptive recreationalists, and a lot of people who do both. Divides do sometimes arise, especially when talking about how public lands management is funded. Because license fees go back into public lands, hunters and anglers often feel as if they contribute to conservation in a more tangible way than other users who don’t pay into

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that system. That’s still a fairly narrow difference, especially when measured against an increasingly powerful outdoor recreation industry that represents $373.7 billion, or 2 percent of the entire 2016 U.S. gross domestic product, according to a report by the federal Bureau of Economic Analysis. The outdoor industry now provides more jobs than the oil, coal, or natural gas industries. “That in itself is common ground and a leg to stand on as we move forward,” Revercomb said. “Whether you’re a mountain biker or hunter or someone who likes to ride an ATV, you do that stuff because maybe you love being outside, and you probably love public lands. A lot of people who do this stuff want to preserve it for future generations.” For outdoor enthusiasts, the bigger question might be how, exactly, to best use public land. “The divide is less about what you do outdoors and more about how you view government and things like that,” Revercomb said. “There were plenty of hunting and angling folks

who were super fired up and against the Bundys [the Utah ranching family who believes the federal government has no Constitutional authority to own land], and then there’s the more conservative-right crowd that hunts and fishes as well, and inherently thinks less government is better.” That’s where politics comes in, as well as the urban/rural divide. Most outdoor recreation destinations such as national forests are located in rural areas. Most of the population in the Southeast and Mid-Atlantic is concentrated in metro areas. And through the 21st century so far, rural areas have voted increasingly more Republican and urban areas more Democratic, even as the parties move further away from one another. Even in politics, however, the perception of division can sometimes diverge from reality. Social media tilts toward the loudest voices, who often represent more extreme ends of the political spectrum, but if you place people in a personal conversation they tend to be more polite and more likely than not to find some common ground. Although Appalachia received

scrutiny in national media for its support of Donald Trump in 2016, the region really was no more homogenous in its voting patterns than other parts of the country. If there’s division in these mountains, it’s really no different than the rest of the country, says Elizabeth Catte, whose book What You Are Getting Wrong About Appalachia serves both as a rejoinder to J.D. Vance’s Hillbilly Elegy but also as a powerful reminder of Appalachia’s heterogeneity. “I’m not sure if I see a culture war in Appalachia that is different or unique to the many types of other divisions and conflicts that are happening in the United States,” Catte wrote in an email. “For a variety of reasons, many people outside the region like to think of Appalachia as a monoculture, and that isn’t accurate. But it is often used to give credence to the theory that ideas and beliefs in Appalachia are universally shared and are therefore more enduring.” “Individuals often want history that is compact and tidy,” she continued. “The work I do as a historian is

often focused on complicating neat arguments about the past. This is particularly true of history that reflects themes of violence, racism, and exploitation. The past is what it is and not a fantasy of what we wish it might be." How do these historical divides— real or invented—affect politics and public policy? No one understands it better than Tania Lown-Hecht, communications director at the Outdoor Alliance, a Washington, D.C.based advocacy group that represents human-powered outdoor recreation activities on Capitol Hill. “The question we get more than any other is, do you support hunting and fishing?” said Lown-Hecht. “Our focus is not hunting and fishing, but we work closely with those groups. We have a ton in common policy-wise and don’t have a lot of conflict there.” A sharper conflict arose in late 2017 when a congressional Republican filed a bill to open federal wilderness areas to mountain bikes. The bill seems to be locked up in committee, with little chance of passing both chambers in an election year, but it exacerbated

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VIEWS tensions between mountain bikers and other recreationalists. The Outdoor Alliance is working with another bill to create a new designation that would protect wilderness areas while also providing more access for mountain bikers. But in Lown-Hecht’s work, it’s still the rural/urban split that has the most implications. “The divide between urban and rural populations is perhaps the greatest political divide in this country,” she said. “That maps onto public lands issues pretty strongly. So many of our public lands are in or adjacent to rural communities. The decisions around how to care for and what to do with public lands have a disproportionate impact on folks in rural communities. I think there’s often the sense that distant bureaucrats or elitists on the coasts are making decisions that affect your town and county and land." In recent decades, it's been the outdoor community who has led efforts to protect public lands and wild places. It has safeguarded some of America's most important landscapes, but some parts of rural America have resented or

misunderstood these protections. “People in rural communities adjacent to public lands love these lands,” continued Lown-Hecht. “They’re often why they’ve moved to or stayed in these places. We need to answer the question of how we care for public lands in the long run, and make sure there are economic opportunities distributed across the country. I think there are very legitimate grievances on both sides of that particular debate.” Where can we find common ground? I asked that question over and over in reporting this story. And while different people have different ideas, a couple of solutions kept recurring. Get off the internet and get out of your comfort zone. Go outside. Listen to others and to the natural world. And make space for other people, especially those who have been historically marginalized. As Audrey Peterman put it, the land doesn’t lie: “Public lands are the repository of our natural and cultural history, and the bonds of nationhood that we share together.” Together.

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RIDE CENTERS THE REGION'S BEST BIKING MECCAS BY PHIL MORGAN

There’s a revolution taking place in the world of mountain biking. Moab and British Columbia’s North Shore are no longer the centers of the bike universe. Trail towns are popping up all over the country, in some pretty unlikely places. Destinations you’ve never heard of, like Anniston, Alabama, are increasingly appearing on bikers’ radars. Locally minded pro riders, move-n-shake community leaders, and innovative trailbuilders are transforming long-ignored backwaters into knobbytire hubs. With so many new places to shred, The International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA) wants to remake the map. Throughout the winter of 2018 they fine-tuned their grading scale hoping to better assess the world’s best mountain bike towns, also known as ride centers. IMBA rates, or demotes, a ride center based on seven factors: trail experiences, services, community involvement, tourism, promotion, marketing, evaluation, and measurement. Using these criteria, IMBA decides if your town is gold, bronze, silver, or nothing at all. Currently there is not a single gold-level town in Appalachia. “IMBA has that currency, the ability to accredit trail systems,” says Southeastern Off-Road Mountain Biking Association (SORBA) Director Tom Sauret. “A lot of communities like that. It’s a high honor especially to those who might feel a little insecure about what they have to have offer, places like Augusta, Georgia.” Upon receiving a ride center application, an IMBA team descends upon your town. Guys like Anthony Duncan, an IMBA project manager from Tennessee, spend a few days ripping your trails, talking with your leadership, and rating your amenities. Duncan looks for diverse riding options, sustainability, well-marked THE DODY RIDGE TRAIL IN ROANOKE, VIRGINIA

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Virginia’s Blue Ridge is now an IMBA Silver-Level Ride Center™ Virginia’s Blue Ridge was recently designated as a Silver-Level Ride Center by the International Mountain Bicycling Association. It’s the first destination in the eastern half of the country to earn Silver-Level Ride Center status, as Virginia’s Blue Ridge emerges as America’s East Coast Mountain Biking Capital. The Ride Center designation is awarded based on a region’s collection of trail offerings, accessibility and connectivity of trails, bike-friendly amenities, and local biking infrastructure & culture.

Guided Adventures & Group Rides When you’re unfamiliar with a trail, know that a guide is nearby and willing to show you the ropes, as well as warn you of any tricky surprises. These services are also awesome for connecting you with like-minded adventurers when you want company for the excursion. Check out Roanoke Mountain Adventures, the Roanoke Chapter of the International Mountain Bicycling Association, Downshift Hand Crafted Bikes & Brews, UnderDog Bikes, and RIDE Solutions to choose the best option for you and/or your group.

An Awesome Urban Trail System Many cities boast about close proximity to the mountains, but Roanoke is one of the only cities in the U.S. featuring a mountain within the city limits – and it’s a fantastic spot for mountain biking! Located less than three miles from Downtown Roanoke, Mill Mountain Park offers nearly 10 miles of trails across 650 acres of mountaintop space, and you’ll get to check out the awesome view of the city from the iconic Roanoke Star & Overlook.

BIKING & BEER OPTIONS There’s a vibe in Virginia’s Blue Ridge in general that pairs the great outdoors with craft beer. The two are embraced as “go have a blast and then unwind with local suds,” and we have excellent trail systems paired with breweries for the enthusiasts who love to do both. Pair a ride at Carvins Cove with a pint from Parkway Brewing Company or unwind at Ballast Point Brewing Company after a day of backcountry riding in the George Washington & Jefferson National Forest. Traveling on the Blue Ridge Parkway? Hit the trails at Explore Park at Milepost 115 and then check out what’s on tap at Twin Creeks Brewing Company. Cheers!

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becoming a gold-level ride center. “We are very excited,” McCormick says. “Moving forward, the community wants to continue investing in mountain biking.” Meanwhile Roanoke riders are busy sessioning their smorgasbord of trails, places like Mills Mountain, Carvins Cove, or the 41-mile Blue Ridge Parkway Epic. “It’s a good place to keep your battery charged,” says Wadsworth.

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trails, an engaged community, a good place to chow, and a comfortable spot to lay his head after a long day of riding. If your town offers this kind experience, then you’re looking at ride center status. The most common problems, he says, are a lack of easy trails for families and poor signage. “IMBA, like trailbuilders, sees the big picture,” says Pisgah Stage Race founder and Long Cane Trails owner Todd Branham. “Ride centers—when I travel that’s what I use. Those are the hotspots.” Ultimately, says IMBA, the idea is to improve the sport. “The real goal, our mission, is to make places better for mountain biking,” says IMBA project manager Shane Wilson. “The ride center concept leads destinations through a process of looking at themselves. This is something for communities that are really looking to improve. It can put them on the map.”

SILVER Roanoke, Virginia “Roanoke has everything we want and more,” says threetime USA Cycling mountain biking national champ Gordon Wadsworth. “Mountain biking, river access, ample jobs, an old part of town, a market.” Even with all its amenities, it’s still the trails that convinced Wadsworth to make downtown Roanoke his home and training ground. “The thing that has kept us here is the accessibility,” says Wadsworth. “From my home I can be on singletrack in ten minutes by bike. 100 miles of singletrack from my door is hard to beat.” Kristine McCormick, the President of Roanoke IMBA, is proud to call this Virginia mountain town home. An IMBA board member since 2012, she says local leaders have

made a concerted effort to transform Roanoke into an outdoor recreation hub, specifically a mountain biking hub. Roanoke is currently the only silverlevel ride center in the Blue Ridge Mountains. “One of the things that had never been done before was all the land managers sat down together and did this inventory looking at the land as a whole,” McCormick says. “We formed some really good working relationships from that.” IMBA’s Anthony Duncan vouches for the work McCormick put in and the subsequent transformation that took place. “Roanoke was interesting,” says Duncan. “It had a lot of support for outdoor recreation, but it lacked identity. McCormick utilized that outdoor leadership and support. They’re trademarking the brand of being the mountain biking capital of the east coast. The support coming out of Roanoke is unbelievable.” Still, community leaders, stakeholders, and bikers are working at

Anniston, Alabama is mountain biking’s dark horse. This once-struggling southern hamlet has embraced bicycling as the path forward. “Anniston is a community redefining itself as an outdoor destination,” says Tom Sauret. “I have never been in a community that is so engaged with SORBA and IMBA to transform the thinking around biking.” After building 35 miles of trail on Coldwater Mountain in just four years, the city has now purchased 65 adjoining acres for a parking lot, campground, and pump track. Meanwhile, the Fort McClellan development authority is investing $600,000 toward trail development, and the Northeast Alabama Bicycle Club is renovating a 108-year-old building to serve as the group’s headquarters. “We have a lot of dedicated people in this town,” says club president Tom Nelson. Anniston’s crown jewel remains Coldwater Mountain, which sits just two miles from the downtown. At 900 feet of elevation, purposebuilt trails run down both sides of the giant hill. Deciduous trees and loamy soil make up the north side, while the south side consists of fire ecosystem, pines and rock. “People from big mountain states will come here and they’re pleasantly surprised by the length of the descents,” says Patrick "Wig" Wigley, owner of Wig’s Wheels, Anniston’s goto bike shop. “It makes up for the lack of altitude. You’re paid off ten times on the descents. Most descents have a half-dozen to a dozen berms, and about 50 kickers. It’s machine-cut, with flowy

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terrain in mind.” Bomb Dog Loop is an especially popular trail, fast with an assortment of lines. Nearby Gaza trail is brutally chunderous. With a growing taste for trail, Anniston is continuing its efforts. Nelson says biking has had a two-million-dollar impact on Anniston’s economy. Local leaders are now focused on inspiring future advocates and trail connectivity. Fort McClellan will serve as a high school mountain bike course, as well as beginnerfriendly trails. Anniston currently boasts three high school mountain biking teams. The nearly completed Chief Liadaga rail trail, which passes through 33 miles of rolling Alabama farmland and recreation areas, will begin in Anniston. “There are so many special things about this place,” says Wigley. “It’s hard to mention them all.”

Central Savannah River Area, Georgia + South Carolina “We put that place on the map,” says trail builder and race promoter Todd Branham. “At the IMBA World Summit in 2010 people were blown away.” The Central Savannah River Area (CSRA) boasts roughly 150 miles of trails zigzagging the South Carolina/ Georgia border. “It’s not real technical, it’s just fun,” says Branham. Branham says the key in CSRA’s rise has been their SORBA chapter and the tireless work invested, especially in securing trail-building grants. “That club is one of the strongest in the country,” says Branham. “They all got on board. They were ahead of the times.” Drew Jordan, owner of Andy Jordan’s Bicycle Shop in Augusta, Georgia, agrees that the club's work has been crucial in the area’s emergence as a mountain bike destination. “We are very fortunate to have the

club that we do,” says Jordan. “They put in an incredible amount of man hours, both on the trail and behind the scenes.” Jordan reciprocates their hard work every year when he puts on his FATS Flowmaster. Inspired by the speedy, butterysmooth trails in the Forks Area Trail System (FATS), Jordan named his annual race after the area’s prized system. One hundred percent of race proceeds go back into CSRA’s SORBA chapter. Jordan says rookie mountain bikers are routinely hooked after riding FATS. “There’s no barrier to entry,” he says. “Almost anybody can come ride out here. Once somebody gets on those trails they are hooked.” Brown Wave is a can’t-miss FATS loop and Great Wall, Jordan says, has a little bit of everything: jumps, berms, speed. For a slightly more rugged adventure riders push into Modoc, Turkey Creek, and Wine Creek. Nearby Augusta is replete with happening bars and restaurants like the Riverwatch Brewery.

Reading, Pennsylvania Nestled at the bases of Neversink Mountain and Mount Penn, Reading’s rocky trails groomed one of the east coast’s premiere downhill mountain bikers. YT racer Neko Mulally maintains that his childhood home is one of the best places to ride in all of the midAtlantic. “There are a lot of trails close to the city,” Mulally says. “There’s good access, definitely a good mix. There’s a lot of lakes that have some good trails around them. Pennsylvania is rocky, so there is some technical stuff.” While Neko has moved away, his brother Logan is still shredding Pennsylvania full-time and purveying the stoke as manager of a local bike shop World Wide Cyclery. “It’s the type of riding I like,” Logan says. “It’s very technical. There’s not a ton of elevation, maybe just 600 feet, but there’s a lot of rocks. It makes the uphills even more fun. There’s a little bit of everything.” What Reading lacks in elevation,

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it makes up for in accessibility and diversity. Over 70 miles of trails encircle a downtown with good watering holes and restaurants. Downhill runs like A-Line complement technical routes, such as the Never-Sink Loop, and the beginner-friendly Blue Marsh. Furthermore an active local club is nourishing Reading’s reputation by building more trails, and local riders are known for their good, old-fashioned hospitality. “Really friendly people,” says Logan. "There’s always somebody in the parking lot happy to show you trails.”

Harrisonburg, Virginia “Harrisonburg has the best backcountry experiences of any ride center in the region,” says Duncan. “It’s progressive, forward-thinking trail building within the National Forest Service vision.” Which is exactly why legendary endurance racer Jeremiah Bishop calls Harrisonburg home. “It’s an incredible place to train because there is such a diversity of riding,” says Bishop. “The backcountry riding is one of the highlights.”

Aside from brutal grinders through George Washington National Forest and along the Virginia Mountain Trail, there’s beginnerfriendly systems downtown at Hillandale and white-knuckle, gravityriding at Bryce and Massanutten. “It’s some of the best riding in the world, and I travel the world riding bikes,” says Bishop. Furthermore, races, impassioned club members, and a revitalized downtown with bike shops, breweries, and a university make Harrisonburg a top-notch destination. “It’s a good community,” says Bishop. “It’s got a lot going on: trail work parties, races, six-pack invitationals. It’s got a good vibe to it; a lot of people who give back to the sport. The culture is strong.”

Richmond, Virginia A lack of terrain could not stop Richmond, Virginia, from building the fast-riding, texture trails that IMBA loves. Just 15 minutes outside of downtown in Pocahontas State Park, mountain bike enthusiasts have turned a relatively flat chunk of ground into hair-raising flow trails

GLOW-N-FLOW

complete with big berms and even a dual slalom course. “The solution was to source dirt,” says Duncan, “and basically build up the tread. It provided a completely different experience.” Eddie Anderson, a pro cyclist for Hagensberman Axeon, grew up in Richmond. He says local trail advocates RVA MORE are largely responsible for this innovative approach. The group maintains more than 120 miles of trail within a short drive of the city. “RVA MORE does community service days every week,” he says. “The trails are very well maintained.” Anderson’s favorite trails are actually inside the city limits at James River Park where he says he can string together a 50-mile ride almost entirely on singletrack. “You’d never think such an expansive trail network could exist in the heart of the city,” says Anderson. ”There are lots of new sections with big drops.”

Going For Gold The Blue Ridge Mountains are home to a host of towns that could be the East’s first gold-level ride center.

Brevard, North Carolina

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 13 8-10PM $20 FOR EVENT RIDE ONLY $10 ADD ON TO 4 HR/DAY TICKET MUST HAVE AT LEAST ONE FORM OF A BIKE SPECIFIC LIGHT

“It’s sweet living here. There are so many good trails,” says professional downhill racer Walker Shaw. “I never feel like I’ve ridden all the trails. Dupont is smooth and rolling. Pisgah Forest is so massive. Bennett Gap is fast, rough, rooty, and rocky. Shaw, who rode for the national champion Brevard College Tornados, says the town is an idyllic mountain biking community. “I rarely had to drive to ride trail. I’d just hop on at Bracken Mountain, and I’ve met so many good people here.”

Chattanooga, Tennessee www.bryceresort.com | 540-856-2121

/bryceresort

B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S / S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 8

@brycebikepark

In 2004 SORBA Chattanooga began their Singletrack Mind Initiative with just seven miles of trail. Today bikers B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S

can access 120 miles of singletrack without straying any further than ten miles from the downtown. Along with exemplary leadership, Chattanooga boasts a one-of-a-kind riding experience. With grueling climbs, wicked-fast descents, rock gardens, beginner-friendly paths, stunning views of the Tennessee River, and a hip downtown, the River City has it all. The trails at Raccoon Mountain are highly regarded by novices and experts alike.

Davis, West Virginia “Davis is small town. There’s not many places with a population of 600 people that have such access to the outdoors and such an interesting population,” says long-time pro Sue Haywood. “There is a real sense of freedom here. The trails are so close. The cost of living is low. We are not overrun by tourists.” Haywood’s favorite trail is Splash Dam, which runs along the Blackwater River and is home to eagles, beaver, deer, and turkey. “It has two miles of awesome, technical rock section,” says Haywood.

ELlijay, Georgia Thomas Turner, a professional stage racer for Jamis, stages his training out of northern Georgia in order to access countless miles of rugged riding. “There’s a lot of diversity,” he says. “Bear Creek and the Pinhotis are easy-going, cleared-out trails. Windy Gap is very rocky and very technical.” Turner says the bike community is growing, as Mulberry Gap Mountain Biker’s Hostel is spearheading a growing numbers of events, including races and clinics for high school mountain bikers.

Boone, North Carolina Rocky Knob, a 185-acre bike park just outside the city limits, Beech Mountain Resort, and gnarly Pisgahbackcountry riding make Boone one of the most epic destinations in the east. Growing interest in clubs and advocacy means increased trail maintenance, more signage, and a better balance of beginner-friendly trails are in the works. A vibrant downtown and large university make Boone one of the most dynamic destinations in Appalachia. G O O U TA N D P L AY

B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S

DISCOVER FRANKFORT

CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

This Fall!

Walk / Bike Trails Mountain Bike Trails

“ON THE BANKS OF THE BIG ELKIN CREEK”

ELKIN

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2018 ELKIN MUNICIPAL PARK • 11AM - 4PM WWW.BIGELKINBREWFEST.COM

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Capital View Park West Sixth Brewery Farm Riverview Park The Capital City Off-Road Triathlon Bluegrass State Games Mountain Bike Race 12 Hours of Mountain Bike Racing Take Your Kid Mountain Biking Event VisitFrankfort.com 800-960-7200 for event information

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 8 / B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

There’s a big life inside every Ascent. ™

Presenting the all-new 3-row Subaru Ascent.

Families grow and so does the list of things you want to experience together. That’s why we’ve built the Ascent, our biggest SUV with standard Symmetrical All-Wheel Drive and up to 27 mpg.* There’s room for up to 8 passengers, with a choice of second-row captain’s chairs or bench seating. You can even tow up to 5,000 pounds.† Love. It’s what makes a Subaru, a Subaru.

Ascent. Well-equipped at $31,995.** Subaru is a registered trademark. *EPA-estimated highway fuel economy for 2019 Subaru Ascent and Ascent Premium models with standard equipment. 2019 Subaru Ascent Limited shown is rated at 26 mpg highway. Actual mileage may vary. † Maximum towing capacity varies by trim level. Trailer brakes may be needed. See your retailer for details. **MSRP excludes destination and delivery charges, tax, title, and registration fees. Retailer sets actual price. Certain equipment may be required in specific states, which can modify your MSRP. See your retailer for details. 2019 Subaru Ascent Limited shown has an MSRP of $41,945. Vehicle shown with accessory equipment.

THE GOODS

BEST BIKE GEAR TRAIL GURU PETER MILLS PICKS HIS FAVORITES

MORE GEAR PATAGONIA ARBOR GRANDE PACK 28L $129

B Y G R A H A M AV E R I L L

ne benefit of global warming? Ski areas are doubling down on their mountain bike programs. All across the Southern Appalachians, resorts are investing heavily in their summer-friendly bike offerings, building more downhill trails in hopes of attracting visitors during the warmer months. Nobody knows this as well as Peter Mills, co-owner of Elevated Trail Designs, which has been working on building out Beech Mountain’s master downhill plan for more than three years now. “Basically, we’re trying to match the family appeal of skiing, so a family of five can show up to ride in the summer and everyone can have a great experience,” Mills says. “There’s no better way to develop your skill set than to ride one of these parks where you can session different features over and over, working to refine technique,” Mills says. “Then you can take your new skills into Pisgah or the GW and ride better than you ever have before.” We asked Mills to detail his favorite gear for riding lift-served bike parks. Here are his picks in his own words.

Patagonia’s new Arbor collection of backpacks uses 100% recycled materials. Each bag is constructed of 8.5 plastic bottles, and its solution dyeing process that saves a half gallon of water per bag and produces 96% less carbon dioxide than conventional dyeing methods. The pack is commuterfriendly and adventure-friendly, with a padded laptop sleeve and ample storage and compartments for longer excursions.

POC CORON AIR SPIN $275

If I’m not pedaling uphill, then I’m wearing a full face helmet. This isn’t an area where you should skimp. POC’s helmet is comfortable and pretty well ventilated, and gives you the protection you need when something goes wrong.

MAXXIS MINION DHF $80 ea.

If you dropped the money to run I-9 wheels, you need to make sure you have a tire that performs. In my opinion, these are the best downhill tires out there. Incredibly fast, incredible control. They’re really precise. Of course, I run them tubeless.

KONA OPERATOR $3,500

You can ride most parks with a trail bike, but it’s more fun if you’re on a downhillspecific bike. I ride a base model Kona with a couple of key upgrades. This bike is super high-quality, but reasonably priced.

CANE CREEK DOUBLE BARREL COIL $620

INDUSTRY NINE GRADE DH WHEELS $1,250

The number one upgrade you can make to your bike is the wheels. These are the best around. They’re light and strong, and the DH-specific aluminum spokes create a stiff wheel with superior engagement. And they hold up under all kinds of abuse.

This shock is a must for me and has basically become the standard shock for anyone who rides downhill around here. It’s incredibly adjustable, so you can really dial in the compression and rebound and get the exact ride you want.

CORDOVA 100 COOLER $300

High R-value foam gives this cooler a higher insulation rating and better cooling efficiency than most other coolers on the market. It can hold up to 70 pounds of ice and features top-mount lid latches, built-in bottle openers, and maximum-strength aluminum handles.

CYCLOPS HL210 HEADLAMP $20

The Cyclops HL210 offers outdoor enthusiasts premium lighting performance at a budgetfriendly price. Powered by 3 AAA batteries each, the Cyclops can run up to 16 hours at its low setting and as much as 6 hours on high.

SAGE 376-3 DART ROD $700

This versatile, smooth-casting rod is the perfect tool to land brookies in tight, rhodo-choked Southern Appalachian streams. Equally capable with a dry-dropper as with a small dry fly, this rod is lightweight and extremely precise. S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 8 / B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

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BIKE

FRANKLIN COUNTY, VIRGINIA

rom the crest of the Blue Ridge, to the Piedmont below and the foothills in between, Franklin County is a distinct outdoor destination. Adventurers of all types will find ample space to play among the four rivers and two lakes in this Southwest Virginia location. It is a landscape woven with almost 1,800 miles of road, including nearly 50 miles of state designated scenic byways. Swim, or float and paddle in one of the many blueways. Grab your fishing pole and spend the day reeling in bass, trout, walleye and more. Or catch a tune at the Harvester Performance Center or a lively Concert by Canoe on Philpott Lake in October. PHOTOS BY: MATT ROSS

VISITFRANKLINCOUNTYVA.COM | (540) 483-3030

VisitFranklinCo

VisitFrankCoVA

VisitFranklinCo

CALLING ALL BIKERS

With nearly 1, 800 miles of r oad an d ove r 30 t r ai l mi l e s a v a i l a b l e fo r o f f - road biking trave l , Fr an k l i n Cou n t y i s a h i dde n d e st i n a t i o n fo r b iker s of all ages and e x p e r i e n c e. Take a r i de on o n e of the f ou r loops, averag i n g 35 mi l e s e ac h , of t h e J ag g e d E d ge Motorcycle Trail. E ac h l oop s n ake s i n an d ou t of t h e Blue Rid g e Parkway, offe r i n g 588 c u r ve s an d ave r ag i ng 1 , 5 95 feet o f e levation chan ge. Take a br e ak an d admi r e t h e v i e w fro m o v erlooks or recre at i on ar e as al on g t h e way. T h e t r a i l s at J a m ison Mill and Waid Par k s ar e g e ar e d t owar d moun t a i n biking and a part of th e r e g i on’s r e c e n t I M BA S i l ve r Ri d e C e n t e r designation for Virginia’s Bl u e Ri dg e. I f you ’r e l ook i n g f o r co m pany on your ride, joi n t h e Fr an k l i n Fr e e wh e e l e r s T h u r sd a y e v enings, April th rough O c t obe r. A n n u al e ve n t s i n c l u de J u n e’s Wo rld Hu n ger Bike Ride, n ow e n t e r i n g i t s 30t h ye ar, w i t h 5 , 1 0, 25 a nd 50 mile cou rses an d J u l y’s Rol l O ve r Can c e r Bi ke R i d e fea turing 25 an d 50 mile g r ou p s . S mal l wh e e l s r ol l t oo. Oc t o b e r fea tures IM BA’s Take a Ki d M ou n t ai n Bi k i n g D ay at Waid Pa r k. I n Dec ember, Fran klin C ou n t y Pu bl i c Li br ar y wi l l h os t a B a l a n c e Bike Bo nanz a to allow y ou n g fol k s t o s h owc as e t h e i r b a l a n c e skills and win a free balan c e bi ke.

PLAY ON

La unc h into Ph ilpott Lake or S mi t h M ou n t ai n Lake an d e n j o y one o f the man y recreati on ar e as . Pi c k ou t a k ayak , c a n o e, SU P, o r boat to enjoy on e of t h e fi ve di s t i n c t wat e r t r a i l s t h a t make F ran klin a paddler ’s p ar adi s e. Cat c h s ome ai r at B l a c k Water J unction —Virgin ia’s on l y wake p ar k . Come bac k e a c h year to e x perien ce the a n n u al Rambl e We e ke n d h i g h l i g h t i n g t he P igg River Ramble, Bl ac k wat e r Bl ac kou t -a n i g h t t i m e f l o a t , and B reakfast on th e Bla c k wat e r. Fr an k l i n Cou n t y offe r s o v e r 70 0 s quare miles to h ike, bi ke, p l ay di s c g ol f, an d mor e. H ike the Grassy H ill Nat u r e A r e a Pr e s e r ve, or t h e S ma r t V i e w Rec rea tion Area alon g th e Bl u e Ri dg e Par k way. Ru n n er s f r o m aro und th e country race t o t h e Cr ooke d Road 24 H ou r U l t r a a n d sm a ller events like Chug for t h e J u g 5K . E n d you r day a t o n e of the d istilleries, brewe r i e s or wi n e r y t h at c al l Fr an k l in C o u n t y ho m e. F or a uniqu e din in g e x p e r i e n c e, doc k an d di n e o n Sm i t h Mo untain Lake. Pull u p i n t h e wat e r c r aft of you r c h oi c e t o e n j o y g o o d f o od and even bet t e r vi e ws . T h e l an d an d wat e r d e f i n e s w here F ran klin Cou n ty is , bu t i t s c u l t u r e, c u l i n ar y h e r i t a g e a n d co m m unity defin es w h at i t i s .

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BIKE THE BLUE RIDGE FOR YOUR NEXT BLUE RIDGE EXCURSION CHOOSE A TRAIL TOWN THAT HAS IT ALL. RIP WORLD-CLASS SINGLETRACK AND GLIDE DOWN BEGINNER-FRIENDLY PATHWAYS. EXPLORE A WIDE VARIETY OF OUTDOOR ADVENTURES: PADDLE, SWIM, HIKE. CAP A LONG DAY IN THE WILD WITH CHOICE BREWS, TASTY FOOD, AND INVITING APPALACHIAN CULTURE. HIT THE TRAIL THIS FALL IN THESE BLUE RIDGE BIKING HUBS. VIRGINIA STATE PARKS, VA Passionate mountain bikers have transformed Pocahontas State Park into one of the most-prized trail systems in Virginia. With locallysourced dirt, trail hands built up the tread and carved fast, sweeping flow trails into the landscape. Strewn with berms, table tops, and rollers, popular descents, like Swift Creek Trails and Blueberry Hill, thrill riders of all skill levels. With nearly 64 miles of beginner and intermediate trails, Pocahontas State Park plays a key role in Richmond, Virginia’s bronze-level ride center status with International Mountain Biking Association. Aside from biking, Pocahontas offers boating, picnicking, camping, camping cabins, hiking trails, and nature and history programs. Take a dip at the water center or throw a fishing line into any one of three lakes. Boat rentals are available at Swift Creek Lake. Stay overnight in rustic bunkhouses and catch a show and the amphitheater, which hosts the Pocahontas Premieres series of concerts and family-friendly entertainment. Pocahontas State Park is a mere 20 miles from Richmond, so you’ve got easy access to big city amenities,

historical sites, and exciting nightlife. York River State Park is another enticing riding destination in the Virginia State Parks, especially, for lovers of history and wildlife. The park is known for its rare estuarine environment, where freshwater and saltwater meet to create a rich habitat. Located on the York River, the park is part of the Chesapeake Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve. Here you’ll find 11 miles of singletrack and more than 30 miles of all-purpose trails. You’ll breeze past marshes, river shoreline, and forests. Link up with a historian or conservationist after your ride to develop a deep appreciation for the history and ecology of this unique reserve. There are also boat ramps, fresh and saltwater fishing spots, a fishing pier, playgrounds, picnic shelters, and boat and recreational equipment rentals are available. Lake Anna State Park in Spotsylvania, Virginia, is another great option for trail riding in the state parks. Fifteen miles of trail wind around the banks of Lake Anna and through hardwood and pine forests. VIRGINIASTATEPARKS.GOV

SHENANDOAH COUNTY, VA Shenandoah is an essential stopover

HIGH BRIDGE TRAIL STATE PARK, VA PHOTO COURTESY THE VIRGINIA DEPARTMENT OF CONSERVATION AND RECREATION

for mountain bikers. Bryce Mountain Bike Park is a fixture for East Coast downhill riders. The bike park features eight liftaccessed trails with features unique to the resort. Trails range from beginner to advanced trails. The bike park also includes a learning center with certified instructors and a bike retail and rental shop featuring Trek Bicycles. After a visit to Bryce Bike park, stop for refreshments and food at Swover Creek Farm Brewery. Set on a Virginia Century Farm, this little brew pub is famous for its brews made with ingredients grown onsite. You can also fuel up at Cristina’s Café, which offers a creative menu with a commitment to farm fresh ingredients and sustainability. If you’re more interested in epic cross country riding, sample the Virginia Mountain Biking Trail. Virginia’s first permanent backcountry mountain biking trail, is a continuous off-road trail spanning the length of Virginia’s Allegheny

SHENANDOAH COUNTY, VA PHOTO BY BRYCE RESORT

and Blue Ridge Mountains from Strasburg to Damascus. Shenandoah Mountain Touring offers road and mountain biking tours in the George Washington National Forest. Complete a weekend visit with a stay at the River Bluff Farm Bed and Breakfast in a beautifully restored log home that sits along the Shenandoah River. The Holiday House Bed and Breakfast in Strasburg is another cozy place to land some much needed rest. VISITSHENANDOAHCOUNTYCOM

ROANOKE, VA Virginia’s Blue Ridge is America’s East Coast Mountain Biking Capital and newly named a Silver-Level Ride Center by the International Mountain Bicycling Association. Home to a thriving bike scene, Virgnia’s Blue Ridge welcomes everyone from novices to world-renowned professionals. Furthermore, Roanoke’s hip downtown is the perfect place to relax after a fun-filled

ROANOKE, VA PHOTO BY SAM DEAN

day in the saddle. Virginia’s Blue Ridge has a unique plethora of riding experiences, ranging from easy downhill rides to challenging cross country adventures. Ten miles from the downtown you’ll find Carvins Cove Natural Reserve. This 12,500-acre paradise is chalked full of epic trail riding, including, “The Gauntlet,” a two-mile, 1,000-foot downhill, “Hi-Dee-Hoe,” a switchback-lover’s delight, the grueling “Rattlin’ Run” and “Songbird,” two of the fastest miles in the reserve, and “OG,” a wild downhill trail that’s known for its sick jumps and is recommended to those wanting to experience the gnarliest of this challenging, 60-mile trail system. Carvins Cove doesn’t even scratch the surface of what Roanoke offers mountain bikers. At Mill Mountain, you’ll find the “The Full Pull,” a 13.5- mile jaunt through Mill’s entire trail system. Brace up for 2,100 feet of climbing. If you still have some energy check out Explore Park, Pott’s Mountain Jeep Trail, Roaring Run Hoop Hole Trail, Dragon’s Back, Spec Mines Trail, Pandapas Pond Challenging Loop, Dody Ridge, Blue Ridge Parkway Epic Loop, or the RockStar Trail

ROANOKE, VA PHOTO BY SAM DEAN

Bikepacking Route. With over 200-miles of trail within striking distance from the downtown, even the most ambitious riders find the region’s riding options inexhaustible. Navigating the region is an epic task, and a number of bike shops and guide services are eager to help. Underdog Bikes will keep your sled in good shape. It is also a great place to pick up rental or get some extra beta on the local trails. Roanoke Mountain Adventures is good for shuttles, guided trips, coaching, and hooking up with a local group ride. When you’re finally ready to cool off, they can also take you tubing or paddleboarding down the Roanoke River. Checking out one of the regions many races and other events is a great way to experience the biking culture. There’s Virginia’s Blue Ridge Go Cross Cyclocross Race with Deschutes Brewery in September, or The Carvins Cove Mountain Bike Challenge, which will be the first true XC lap race ever held at the cove. There will be 3 separate courses with challenges for different skill levels, each one featuring over 80% singletrack. The event takes place in October. Later that month, scope out the cycling

scene when Virginia’s Blue Ridge host the Gran Fondo, which features 30, 50, and 80-mile races through rolling farmland. As cold beer and bikes have become an inseparable pair, Virginia’s Blue Ridge boasts a blossoming brewery scene. The Virginia’s Blue Ridge Cheers Trail has created a Cheers Trail Passport Program, which provides an adventurous step-bystep guide to experiencing some of the 30 breweries, wineries and craft spirits producers throughout the region, including Ballast Point, Beale’s Brewery, Big Lick Brewing Company, Chaos Mountain Brewing, Deschutes Roanoke Tasting Room, Flying Mouse Brewery, Hammer & Forge Brewing Company, Ober Brewing Company, Olde Salem Brewing Company, Soaring Ridge Craft Brewers, Starr Hill Pilot Brewery & Side Stage, Sunken City Brewing Company, Twin Creeks Brewing Company, and White Rock Vineyard, Winery & Brew Haus. The culinary scene is equally staggering. Downshift Bikes doubles as a bike shop and restaurant. You can grab a tasty breakfast or lunch at Sweet Donkey Coffee. Ballast Point

Brewing Company is a popular stop off for Sunday brunch, lunch, or dinner. Martin’s Downtown Bar and Grill is a great also option. For nightlife, try Blue 5, voted the best bar in Virginia by CraftBeer.com. When it comes time lay your undoubtedly exhausted head, stay centrally located and comfortable. Fairfield Inn and Suites is just minutes from Carvins Cove. Hampton Inn and Suites Roanoke Downtown puts you in the lap of all the action. Hilton Garden Inn is another good choice. Spring Hill Suites offers cycling packing in conjunction with Roanoke Mountain Adventures. VISITVBR.COM

LEXINGTON-ROCKBRIDGE, VA With easy access to 64,000 acres of national forest, Rockbridge County is a biker’s dreamscape. Nestled in the Shenandoah Valley between the Allegheny and Blue Ridge Mountains, the quaint and bustling town of Lexington is the perfect place to stage your next mountain biking adventure. The George Washington and Jefferson National Forests provide ample opportunity to get off paved roads and explore the backcountry. For those who love a challenge, George Washington National Forest

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offers some of the toughest and most rewarding routes around. North Mountain trail is nearly 16 miles of rugged backcountry singletrack. Wildly challenging and wonderfully rewarding, you’ll climb 2,700 feet and then descend that same distance. Whetstone Ridge is another great choice for intermediate riders looking for an exciting, 10-mile spin. For a family-friendly experience try the Chessie Nature Trail or Lake Robertson. Brushy Hills offers a variety of trails for riders. Stop by Red Newt Bikes to get the scoop on local rides. There are countless other ways to explore the outdoors in Rockbridge County. Cycle the breathtaking Shenandoah Valley, or stalk native brook trout along the 42-mile Maury River. John Robert’s Fly Fishing is a reputable angling outfitter and Bob’s Up the Creek sells a variety of fishking kayaks and gear. On hot summer days, take to the James River, where you can paddle a canoe or kayak, or float on an inner tube. Adventurous hikers have limitless options in Rockbridge. Hike the three miles up to Devil’s Marbleyard to check out the stunning vistas and the giant boulder field is one unique trek. Rockbridge County is both an outdoorsman’s paradise and hip cultural hub. Downtown Lexington charms you with its historic buildings, farm-to-table eateries, and inviting galleries and boutiques. Beautiful two-hundred-year-old architecture and thriving universities, Virginia Military Institute and Washington and Lee make Lexington one of the most dynamic destinations in the Blue Ridge. Check into The Georges or the Robert E. Lee Hotel and walk to fun downtown hang-outs like TAPS, Southern Inn, Rocca and Sweet Things Ice Cream, where you will revel in a day full of adventure. LEXINGTONVIRGINIA.COM

ROCKBRIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

WYTHEVILLE, VA With easy access to 104 miles of singletrack, Wytheville is a quintessential Virginia trail town. With a high density of beginner and intermediate routes, it’s an ideal

LEXINGTON, VA PHOTO BY STEVE SHIRES

POCAHONTAS COUNTY, WV PHOTO BY SNOWSHOE MOUNTAIN RESORT

WYTHEVILLE, VA PHOTO COURTESTY TOWN OF WYTHEVILLE

destination for a wide variety of riders. Ride to the top of High Rocks at Crystal Springs Recreation Area for breathtaking views of the Blue Ridge Mountains. For a long, rolling jaunt, bike the historic 57-mile long New River Trail, much of which is located on an abandoned railroad track that parallels the historic New River. Visit the Foster Falls area of New River Trail State Park for excellent paddling and fishing opportunities. Big Walker Mountain offers several National Forest hiking and mountain biking trails with abundant wildlife. While the possibilities for outdoor recreation in Wytheville are endless, you’ve still got to explore the local culture. Visit Beagle Ridge Herb Farm, West Wind Farm and Winery, Wohlfahrt Haus Dinner Theatre, Big Walker Country Store, or any one of numerous museums to immerse yourself in the Blue Ridge lifestyle. Rent a room right the heart of town at the Bolling Wilson Hotel and rest well for another exciting day on the trails. VISITWYTHEVILLE.COM

POCAHONTAS COUNTY, WV Pocahontas County, West Virginia

is home to hundreds of mountain biking trails, over 300 miles in fact. Monongahela National Forest is one the East’s most highly-regarded and rugged mountain biking destinations. Check out the Tea Creek Trail System and Gauley Mountain Trail System, where you’ll find The “Gauley Headwaters”. It’s a must shred IMBA-epic trail. If you have a taste for gravity riding, send it at Snowshoe Mountain Bike Park, which houses 40 trails and 1,500 of vertical descent. You’ll also find plenty of familyfriendly experiences in Pocahontas County. The 78-mile Greenbrier River Trail State Park is the longest rail-trail in the region. Numerous access points, bridges, tunnels, 12 trailside campsites, restrooms, drinking stations every ten miles, and a gentle-grade gravel surface means perfect conditions for family members of all ages and experience levels. When you’re ready for grub, check out Dirtbean Cafe, Locust Hill Pub, or Greenbrier Grille. For accommodations, check out Snowshoe Mountain Resort, Mountain Valley Realty, Elk River Inn , Locust Hill Bed & Breakfast,

Appalachian Sport Lodge, Marlinton Motor Inn, Watoga State Park, or Greenbrier River Cabins. NATURESMOUNTAINPLAYGROUND.COM

FRANKFORT, KY Frankfort, Kentucky is a premier mountain biking destination. Begin at Capital View Park, located just south of the beautiful state capitol. This park features miles of great terrain along the Kentucky River. Soak in stunning vistas of rolling hills and the cityscape between slashy sessions on tight, twisty singletrack. Rail around over 11 miles of trail, catch a little air on their jumps, and hone your skills on the pump track. Ready to race? Capital View Park is home of the 12 Hours of Mountain Biking event held every August. This year the event took place August 26. For ten years thousands of bikers have been descending on Frankfort for this great event. Come ride and celebrate the race’s one-decade anniversary. Thirsty? Frankfort’s West Sixth Brewery Farm, located just north of town, is a must-hit pit stop. New to the scene in May 2018, this brewery has it all: Hop yard with Chinook

LEXINGTON, VA PHOTO BY STEVE SHIRES

FRANKFORT KY, PHOTO COURTESY VISIT FRANKFORT

& Cascade varieties climbing up poles, chicken coop with thirty laying hen, honeybees, apple orchard with black and raspberry brambles tucked in, catch and release fishing pond, two beautiful cows, ten West Sixth beers on tap, cornhole, food trucks, and four miles of intermediate singletrack. Frankfort also has a network of walking and biking trails in the downtown area. Trail running along the Kentucky River in downtown Frankfort offers beautiful views of this historic waterway. The trail leads you to Buffalo Trace Distillery. A National Historic Landmark, Buffalo Trace opened for business in 1792. Today, this decorated distillery offers free tours and tasting seven days a week. After a long day riding and exploring, water is always enticing, check out Canoe KY, where you can rent kayaks, canoes, and SUPs and launch on the Kentucky River and nearby Elkhorn Creek. Historic Downtown Frankfort offers local eateries, bars, bakeries and shops—all within a couple of blocks—a great way to wrap up a day of biking. VISITFRANKFORT.COM

TUCKER COUNTY, WV PHOTO BY BRICE SHERBACH

TUCKER COUNTY, WV At 3,200 feet of elevation Davis, in Tucker County West Virginia, is the second highest incorporated town in the east. Tucker County’s mountain biking, however, is second to none. Alongside a storied mountain biking history, is a passionate culture and some seriously rugged trail. Blackwater Bikes, located in downtown Davis, is ground zero of the knobby-tired scene. Make this iconic little shop your first stop before setting out on the area’s extensive trail network. Blackwater Canyon, Manongahela National Forest, and Canaan Valley Resort State Park are renowned systems with hundreds of miles of trails, mostly intermediate to advanced. For a beginner ride, seek out Dale’s Trail part of the new, purposebuilt Thomas city trails. The twin mountain towns of Davis and Thomas both have a distinctive, old-school Appalachian feel, an artistic sensibility, and are still refreshingly free of tourist crowds. Hellbender Burritos is a popular biker’s hangout and a great place to wind down with a cold brewski.

SWAMP RABBIT INN, SOUTH CAROLINA PHOTO COURTESY SWAMP RABBIT INN

For a good night’s sleep, check out the cabins at Blackwater Falls State Park, The Purple Fiddle Hostel, and Black Bear Resort. GETTUCKERED.COM

SWAMP RABBIT INN, SC Diverse riding experiences, a mild climate, and the unique southernmountain flavor makes upstate South Carolina a must-visit biking destination. Ride the quiet country roads, scale the epic climbs, bomb down the thunderous Paris Mountain State Park, or keep it fun at the Gateway Park skills course. Prefer a slower pace? Take a relaxing pedal down the Swamp Rabbit Trail, a 22mile paved greenway trail connecting downtown Greenville with Travelers Rest, South Carolina. If you are riding bikes, or planning any outdoor adventure in upstate South Carolina, check out The Swamp Rabbit Inn for unique, bike friendly lodging. Rent a room at their modern B&B in downtown Greenville, a southern foodie paradise and one of the South’s liveliest downtowns. Or stay at their second location in the hip mountain town of Travelers Rest. The two locations are equal

parts eclectic and timeless. With modern European-style decor and big Southern porches, the Swamp Rabbit is a positively charming base to launch all sorts of adventures. You can also choose from any of the Swamp Rabbit Inn’s six vacation rentals along the Swamp Rabbit Trail. They cater to cyclists with bike stands in the rooms. Their Cycling Greenville SC guidebook and mobile app maps out 20 great rides in the area, including local tips and suggestions to get the most out of your stay. Bring your own bikes or rent directly from the inn. The Greenville location hosts a number of can’t-miss events, including the Swamp Rabbit Music Festival in September. During the summer, chow down on local food trucks, sample craft beers and wine, and jam to some of the area’s best musicians at Truck Inn Tuesdays. From Swamp Rabbit Inn TR, you’re just a short walk to Sidewall Pizza, Swamp Rabbit Brewery, Sunrift Adventures, and Tandem Creperie. Looking to plan more cycling adventures? Check out our new bike friendly lodging marketplace bikeinnbikeout.com SWAMPRABBITINN.COM

Are you drinking coal ash?

L O U A N N WAT K I N S , A 4 5 - Y E A R - O L D N U R S I N G A S S I S TA N T (RIGHT), MOVED FROM HER HOME NEAR THE ROGERS ENERGY COMPLEX IN MOORESBORO, N.C., AFTER HIGH L E V E L S O F A P O T E N T, C A N C E R - C A U S I N G F O R M O R C H R O M I U M WA S F O U N D I N H E R W E L L WAT E R . S H E N O W L I V E S W I T H H E R M O T H E R , M Y R T L E WAT K I N S , 7 2 , ( L E F T ) A N D N I E C E , G A B R I E L L A D AW K I N S , 5 , I N A N E A R B Y H O M E W H E R E T H E D R I N K I N G WAT E R H A S N E V E R B E E N T E S T E D .

ouAnn Watkins just wants drinking water without cancer-causing toxins. A 2016 test of her home’s well water found levels of a potent carcinogen, hexavalent chromium, more than four times the level that had recently prompted “do not drink” warnings from the state.

The culprit? Watkins and other residents suspect the network of ash ponds at Duke’s Rogers Energy Complex in Mooresboro, N.C. State law only requires utilities to provide clean water to residents living within a half-mile of such ponds, a limit that geologists say has no scientific basis. Watkins lived just a few hundred yards beyond that limit. She worries about the long-term health impacts of this water on her and the five-year-old niece and twin grandchildren she has helped raise. Partly because of this concern, she abandoned her since-repossessed manufactured home to move across the road into her mother’s house. She watched as the new, Dukefinanced county water line came to an abrupt stop at a bridge running over a creek next to her old lot. She knows this means she can’t get a decent price for the property, which has been in her family for decades, or even pass it on to relatives. 38

“Nobody could ever stay there with the water that bad,” she said. All the while, she has not received so much as bottle of water from Duke. “I haven’t been compensated for one thing,” Watkins, 45, said, looking at her vacant lot from her mother’s porch. “They don’t care anything about us on this side of the bridge.” Citizens across the South fear that coal ash poisons the water they drink and swim in and the fish they catch. It’s been one of the region’s biggest environmental stories since a collapsed pipe poured thousands of tons of coal ash into the Dan River from a pond at a Duke plant in Eden, N.C. in 2014. Utilities say it is an old story about a threat that is already being addressed. Duke spokeswoman Erin Culbert, for example, said recently that in spending billions of dollars to clean up or cap old pits, the utility is on “common ground” with environmentalists. The company is complying with a state law that requires it to provide its plants’ neighbors with clean drinking water. It is converting or replacing many of its old pits so they burn natural gas, part of an industry-wide shift that will greatly reduce the estimated 130 million tons of coal ash that utilities create annually. And by the end of the year, she said, all of the ash Duke produces in North Carolina will be either recycled or stored in dry, lined

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Coal ash is the largest stream of industrial waste in the Southeast and the source of some of the biggest environmental disasters in its history. But an EPA plan to relax federal regulations could limit access to information about ash-derived toxins in groundwater, hamstring environmentalists’ lawsuits, and turn regulation over to states overwhelmed by the political influence of big utilities like Duke and Dominion. Meanwhile poisons from coal ash such as lead, arsenic and radium continue to seep into groundwater, rivers, and drinking water—affecting the lives and health of millions.

QUICK READ

BY DAN DEWITT

landfills. But environmentalists say this problem is far from solved. Thousands of residents, like Watkins, still live with unsafe drinking water. The fix the company plans at six of its sites, called cap-inplace, involves covering ponds with plastic sheeting, but leaving the ash, meaning toxins continue to seep into groundwater. According to data from Duke Energy, groundwater near ponds is fouled with high levels of arsenic, lead, boron, selenium and other contaminants, including radium at concentrations 38 times safe drinking standards at the Duke plant in Asheville. Instead of protecting residents from these toxins, however, the EPA has been busy rolling back hard-won federal regulations. One of the first actions of Scott Pruitt’s successor, Andrew Wheeler, a former coal lobbyist, has been gutting most of Obama’s coal ash rule. The next phase may include ending the requirement to disclose the results of groundwater testing, which “has been such a crucial step in allowing the public and advocates to understand the full scope of the problem,” said Amy Adams, the North Carolina program director for Appalachian Voices. The EPA is also handing over regulation of coal ash to states, which means the complex, politically fraught job of regulating coal ash will be left B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S

to underfunded state environmental agencies and, ultimately, lawmakers who have proven unable to stand up to corporate powerhouses such as Duke, says Frank Holleman, an attorney with Southern Environmental Law Center. “The EPA is trying to give these [state] agencies the discretion to let the utilities off the hook.”

What Exactly Is Coal Ash?

Though Duke has sought rate increases to make customers pay for cleaning up ash pits, utilities are clearly to blame for the contamination, Holleman said. “The utilities voluntarily created an unsafe and irresponsible situation merely for convenience and some G O O U TA N D P L AY

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A TEST OF LOUANN WATKINS' WELL WATER FOUND LEVELS OF A POTENT CANCER-CAUSING AGENT MORE THAN FOUR TIMES THE LEVEL THAT HAD RECENTLY PROMPTED “DO NOT DRINK” WARNINGS FROM THE STATE.

marginal cost savings,” he said. Burning coal distills heavy metals and other non-combustible poisons in the ash. For decades, utilities have mixed this residue into a slurry and pumped it into unlined ponds. Because the plants need large sources of water, these pits are often separated from rivers only by aging, earthen dams. Some of the pits are below the water table, leaking directly into the aquifer. And as modern power plants extract more chemicals such as mercury from their emissions, more of it ends up in coal ash. “We use 21st-century technology to take toxic substances out of the air, but 19thcentury technology to transmit them in concentrated form into water systems,” says Holleman. The influence of regional utilities, especially Duke and Dominion, can be easily traced in public records and media reports. On the federal level, Duke spent a total of $1.5 million in political donations and $6.4 million on lobbying during the 2016 election cycle, while Dominion spent $1.2 million in contributions and $2.8 million on lobbyists, according to the nonpartisan Center for Responsive Politics. Duke CEO Lynn Good both met with and called the EPA’s Pruitt before he announced plans to relax the regulation of coal ash. Influence is just as obvious in the weak state controls on utilities, critics say. In 2016, Duke mobilized lobbyists to undermine state coal ash rules. The result

was a new coal ash law that would allow some of the coal ash ponds to be capped in place, or, as French Broad Riverkeeper Hartwell Carson describes this process, “pushing the coal ash around a little bit and putting a tarp over it.”

Is our water safe to drink?

For citizens across the Southeast, there is one central question: Is our water safe to drink and, if not, is Duke to blame? Duke’s previous reports to the state showed levels of “arsenic at over 468 times the state’s public health safety standard, vanadium at 690 times the standard, chromium at 83 times the standard … and cobalt at 119 times the standard” for safe drinking water near its Mooresboro power plant. Chemical markings from toxins found in samples taken from groundwater sources near the power plant clearly shows their source is coal ash, says Albert Rubin, professor emeritus at North Carolina State University and a member of the state’s Environmental Management Commission. “We can assert that the radium [in the groundwater] is not naturally occurring and is related to the leaking of coal ash.” That groundwater flows into the Broad River, a popular destination for fishing and kayaking and a source of drinking water for several downstream cities and counties. Duke does not plan to remove or clean up the coal ash ponds in Mooresboro, but will only cap in place. A geologist hired by SELC to examine the effectiveness of cap-

in-place at another Duke plant, predicted that dangerous levels of contaminants would continue to seep from the site for more than a century after capping. “It’s like putting a lid on a leaky pot,” said Roger Hollis, 69, a nearby resident who has helped organize residents’ response to the contamination. “The pot is still going to leak.” Hollis acknowledges Duke has responded to residents who live within a half-mile of the plant not only with water lines but with a “goodwill” payment of $5,000 and a stipend to cover their water bills. But this has done nothing for residents such as he and Watkins, who live outside of this small, arbitrary half-mile boundary. And the company hasn’t adequately addressed the future threat of spreading pollution or accounted for the long-term health impacts on residents, some of whom may have been drinking contaminated water for decades. Hollis thinks he knows the reason for this indifference. “The people affected—who are largely rural—don’t have the resources or the interest in fighting Duke.” Laramie Short, 53, a former maintenance worker, acknowledges that he fits this description. He joined Hollis on a drive to a campground along the Broad River, cases of bottled water piled beside each cabin and camper. He peered at the distant outline of the Blue Ridge Mountains and the looming presence of the plant’s stack. He has lived here since he was seven years old, he said, in a house he now shares with his 88-year-old mother. A black German shepherd was chained to a stake in his front yard. Smoke billowed from a wood stove that is his primary source of heat. He lives close enough to the plant that he can hook into the new water line, but he worries about all those years of breathing air that was once so smoky it blackened clothes hung out on the line and of drinking water so close to the leaking ash pits. The files that Hollis keeps in a big cardboard box at his house show that in 2016 a test revealed Short’s water contained levels of total chromium far above the state threshold for safe drinking water. “I don’t know about that,” Short said. “All I know is, it’s bad.”

WHO REALLY CARES ABOUT COAL ASH?

The Southeast, with a long history of dependence on coal as an energy source, has the highest concentration of coal ash dump sites in the nation. Residents throughout the Southeast are more likely than other residents of the United States to live near aging, unlined coal ash ponds. That means their wells are more vulnerable to the long-term threat of poisons such as lead, arsenic, and radium that leach from these pits and into groundwater. They are also more likely to encounter these toxins in rivers, which are often protected from ash ponds only by leaky earthen dams. And they could be exposed to the increased incidence of cancer that the federal Environmental Protection Agency has found in communities near ash ponds. GEORGIA

The state is home to 11 coal-fired power plants which store a combined 86 million tons of ash. Utilities plan to cap about 90 percent of this ash in place, which allows toxins to seep into the groundwater. Georgia ranks eighth among states for producing new coal ash, an estimated 6.1 million tons per year. VIRGINIA

There are coal-fired plants and 32 coal ash impoundments in Virginia. Eight of these ponds have been classified by the EPA as a “significant hazard.” SOUTH CAROLINA

The state is home to 12 coal-fired power plants and a total of 50 coal ash impoundments. The state’s three largest utilities, responding to lawsuits and public pressure, have agreed to remove all coal ash from unlined pits. TENNESSEE

The Kingston spill, which dumped more than a billion gallons of ash sludge into the Emory River, was the largest industrial spill in the history of the United States. Tennessee is home to eight coal-fired plants and 44 ash ponds. If TVA has its way, 13.4 million tons of toxic coal ash will be capped in place. NORTH CAROLINA

Duke has 32 ponds at 14 plants in the state and ranks ninth in annual production of coal ash. Though Duke said the amount of ash generated is falling because of plants’ conversion to natural gas, the utility has resisted calls to excavate all of its coal ash and store it in lined landfills, and plans capin-place fixes at six of its plants. F I N D M O R E S TAT E - BY- S TAT E I N F O O N A S H C O N TA M I N AT I O N AT

S O U T H E A S TC OA L A S H . O R G

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IC DeHart Mountain Bike Trails 40

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THE

ELEPHANTS

OF MIDDLE TENNESSEE

How did a farm south of Nashville become the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest elephant sanctuary?

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IMAGES BY THE ELEPHANT SANCTUARY

ust before 8 a.m. on a Monday, Shirley stands in the middle of a field, using her trunk to sift through the brush on the ground. Her right hind leg bends out at an awkward, almost 45-degree angle, the lingering result of bone reconstruction after an altercation with another circus elephant over two decades ago. At 70 years old, Shirley walks slowly from a grassy patch to dry ground, swinging her trunk as she surveys the land. She stops at a sand pile, scooping chunks with her trunk and spraying them onto her back, cooling herself on an already-warm May morning.

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Though her injuries linger, Shirley is no longer confined to circus life. Instead, she is one of 11 total elephant residents of The Elephant Sanctuary, a home for retired performance and exhibition elephants. One of only two certified elephant sanctuaries in the U.S., the Elephant Sanctuary, located in Hohenwald, Tenn., doesn’t allow visitors; instead, Shirley’s wanderings are observed through the Sanctuary’s popular Elecams, a system of solarpowered cameras used to monitor the elephants and broadcast a live feed via the Sanctuary’s website, which Sanctuary staff also use for educational outreach programs throughout the year. Founded in 1995 by Carol Buckley and Scott Bais, the then-110-acre Sanctuary adopted its first resident— Tarra, an Asian elephant who, since the age of two, had performed in circuses and acts around the country. In the mid-1990s, after two decades of traveling and living in cramped quarters, Tarra needed land to roam as well as other elephants to interact with. “They also wanted a place where other elephants could retire and form a herd that maybe they hadn’t experienced earlier in life,” Joy Owens, The Sanctuary’s Education Manager, says of Buckley and Bais’s vision. Buckley and Bais chose to establish the Sanctuary in Hohenwald, Tennessee, a town of four-anda-half square miles and close to 4,000 people, 85 miles southwest of Nashville. The climate—mild weather, short winters and warm summer temperatures—roughly mirrors a wild elephant habitat, and the duo was able to purchase a wide swath of land at low cost with the hopes of adding more elephants and acreage over time. The next elephant, a former circus elephant named Barbara, arrived a year later, in 1996. Since that time, 28 elephants—all female—have lived at The Sanctuary, including the 11 current residents who inhabit over 2,700 acres of three separate habitat areas. The Sanctuary provides a home for the elephants to live in an environment more closely matched to their needs—ample land, ample food, a pseudo-herd and unstructured days. (They also each have their own barn space, complete with heated floors in winter). Typically, captive elephants cannot be re-introduced into the wild; as such, creating a parallel environs aids in their survival—and quality of life. As threats to elephants throughout Africa and Asia have increased in recent decades, particularly

SHIRLEY

COMING HOME Watch Shirley the Elephant's journey home at

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poaching, trophy hunting, and habitat destruction, havens like The Elephant Sanctuary highlight the importance of saving this beautiful mammal, classified as both threatened (African elephant) and endangered (Asian elephant). There are an estimated 400,000 African elephants remaining in the world; the Asian elephant population has decreased to an estimated 40,000 worldwide. The Elephant Sanctuary and PAWS (Performing Animal Welfare Society) in California, which was founded in 1984 to protect and house formerly captive and performance wildlife animals, are the only two elephant sanctuaries in America accredited by the Global Federation of Animal Sanctuaries (GFAS). These organizations, as well as international non-profits and governmental organizations, are working through a variety of methods to save the species—before it’s too late. An elephant’s day at The Sanctuary is intentionally unstructured. Elephants spend up to 18 hours a day eating, so the majority of their time is spent wandering, dining, and in some cases, socializing. While Sanctuary caregivers drop food for them, the elephants also walk around and forage independently.

MINNIE AND RONNIE

In the wild, a female elephant stays with her family herd for her entire life; a baby will often stay with her for up to five years. Male adult elephants, following procreation, are kicked out of the herd to live as a bachelor or with other males. Unrelated elephants typically won’t live together in the wild; at the Sanctuary, since most of the elephants aren’t related, they are gradually introduced to one another. When a new elephant arrives, she is kept on her own while the Sanctuary’s full-time staff of 45 workers, including 15 caregivers and four veterinarians, learns her health history and habits. This also allows for the new female to see, hear and smell the other elephants without being forced to share space. If the new and resident elephants are curious about each other and show positive behaviors, they are set up on ‘play dates,’ where they share space together (though African and Asian elephants are not intermingled, given the inherent species differences). If the elephants have a common fence and aren’t getting along, they won’t be introduced to one another. In 1999, Shirley arrived at The Elephant Sanctuary from a zoo in Louisiana, where she’d been the lone

elephant for 22 years. Remarkably, on her first night, she recognized Jenny, an elephant she’d performed with in a circus over two decades prior. From that day onward, the two were almost inseparable, forming a mother-daughter-like bond that continued until Jenny’s passing in 2006. “They definitely have personalities and behaviors, likes, and dislikes,” Owens says. “Ronnie is the social butterfly, because she’s almost always in the company of another elephant and doesn’t like to be by herself. Flora likes to spend more time alone. A lot of behavior tells us about personalities. The caregivers see them every day and can really observe the minutiae of their behavior.” The average life expectancy of an elephant in the wild is close to 60 years; in captivity, it is much shorter, as females living in a zoo live an average of only 17 years. “A big reason [for the shorter life expectancy] is that we haven’t been able to replicate the herd very well in captivity, and that’s really crucial to keeping an elephant happy and healthy,” Owens says. 70-year-old Shirley is the oldest elephant at The Sanctuary; at 34, Sukari is currently

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the youngest. Elephants sleep the least amount of any land mammal, typically only two hours a day. Otherwise, they are eating (elephants can consume hundreds of pounds of plant matter in one day), wandering, and socializing, behaviors that are limited by captivity, particularly by zoos. Instead, “providing space like The Elephant Sanctuary for elephants to be elephants is definitely the way to go,” Tanya Sanerib, Senior Attorney & International Program Legal Director for The Center for Biological Diversity, says. Elephants are also very intelligent, with the largest brains of any land mammal; enclosures, by and large, bore them. PAWS houses five African and three Asian bull elephants at ARK 2000 in San Andreas, providing the elephants—along with 22 tigers, 4 lions, 7 bears and 1 black leopard— with 2,300 acres of natural terrain to roam, lakes and pools for bathing, and elephant barns equipped with heated stalls and an indoor therapy pool. Co-founder Ed Stewart says that PAWS was established in 1984 to “be advocates and activists for the animals,” Stewart says. The sanctuary element evolved almost by

happenstance; today, PAWS is central to providing a place of humane refuge for animals that have been the victims of exotic and performing animal trades (like The Elephant Sanctuary, PAWS does not use bull hooks, chains or confinement tactics.) In addition to housing animals, PAWS investigates reports of abused animals and assists in investigations by regulatory agencies to help captive wildlife. Other habitats, such as Riddles Elephant and Wildlife Sanctuary in Arkansas, house elephants, but are also open to the public for viewing, thus not considered a true sanctuary by GTAS standards. While visitors describe Riddles on social media as a “wonderful conservation home” for the two elephant residents, other unaccredited locations don’t have the same reputation. “The premise of the state of elephant conservation in North America—I think that’s a myth,” Sanerib says. “There’s nothing we’re doing in terms of keeping elephants in captivity in North America that is really, truly contributing to their conservation. A handful of zoos do really good research, and we’ve learned a certain amount about elephant communication through

research on elephants in captivity. But by and large, what elephants need for their conservation is habitat: food, water, and room to roam.” The biggest threat to African elephants’ existence is poaching. In 1989, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) banned the international trade of ivory. However, domestic legal markets have continued to operate, as well as numerous black markets. Poachers seeking ivory, meat and body parts kill an estimated 100 African elephants each day, totaling over 30,000 per year. Under President Obama, the U.S. introduced a near-total ban on the commercial trade of African elephant ivory in 2016. China shut down its’ legal ivory market in late 2017; in early April of 2018, the U.K. announced a new ban on ivory sales whereby violators face up to five years in prison and heavy fines. Hong Kong has announced that it will end its ivory market by 2021. “The hope is that we will ultimately see some changes in poaching numbers on the ground and an upswing on elephants [as a result of these bans],” Sanerib says. “But we

need for these measures to be really implemented, and it’ll take years to work through the system.” Some areas have seen signs of positive change. After a yearlong project collaring and tracking elephants in and around Tanzania’s Selous Game Reserve, numbers indicated that killings had declined and some herds had shown signs of recovery, thanks to law enforcement crackdowns on trafficking syndicates and the continued international illegalization of the ivory trade. Another threat to elephants— which some argue is a way to help the species—is trophy hunting. In trophy hunts, private hunters pay large fees to locals to guide them in killing a specified number of elephants; the profits are intended to support the small African communities as well as conservation efforts. But studies find that the system rarely works that fluidly. As a 2017 National Geographic article and case study pointed out, the industry employs few people, and the money from the hunt fees doesn’t trickle down to needy villagers or conservation groups. Instead, those at the top keep the funds, while more elephants are killed. “With trophy hunting, we are

This is our RUSH HOUR

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DEBBIE IS ONE OF 11 ELEPHANTS L I V I N G AT T H E E L E P H A N T S A N C T U A R Y.

organizationally opposed to it when it comes to imperiled species,” Sanyerib says. “That said, there are some places in Africa that don’t have the infrastructure to serve as a tourist hub, but they do have trophy hunting. If it’s well-managed and sustainable, there are times where that could be a jump-off activity to eco-tourism.” On November 5th, 2017, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service announced plans to lift an Obama-era ban on elephants imported from Zimbabwe and Zambia into the U.S., arguing that allowing trophy hunting would enhance the survival of the species by raising money for conservation programs. Two weeks later, after heavy public backlash over the decision, President Trump tweeted, “will be very hard pressed to change my mind that this horror show in any way helps conservation of elephants or any other animal.” The ban lift was subsequently placed on hold. 46

Then, in early March of 2018, the Trump administration announced that it would in fact lift the ban and thus approve the import of elephant trophies on a “case-by-case basis.” Both of Trump’s adult sons are trophy hunters (as reported by the AP, “a photo of Donald Trump Jr., holding a knife over the severed tail of an elephant he reportedly killed in Zimbabwe in 2011 has sparked outrage among animal rights activists.”) Four conservation and animal protection groups, including The Center for Biological Diversity, sued the Trump administration in response; the lawsuit is pending. Another threat to elephants is loss of habitat, particularly throughout Asia. As urban development has continued, as well as the need for more land, battles have broken out between foraging elephants and humans. Elephants are a keystone species, meaning they create and maintain the ecosystems in which

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they live while also allowing for a myriad of plant and animal species to live in those environments. But for farmers whose livelihood depends on their crops, their first priority is keeping elephants off of their land—at all costs. In 2017, led by the International Elephant Foundation, government representatives from the Asian Elephant Ranges States (every country that has a wild Asian Elephant population) gathered in Jakarta, Indonesia, and created and signed the Jakarta Declaration for Asian Elephant Conservation, where they outlined their collective goals for elephant conservation, “and got on the same page about what we’d all do together to save the Asian elephant,” Sarah Conley, Conservation Coordinator for the International Elephant Foundation, says. Conley added that the Declaration has already started dictating policy decisions; further change is expected, B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S

particularly in the affected Asian countries as outreach efforts continue. “To make sustainable changes for the betterment of elephants and habitat, we need to make sure the local communities not just understand what we’re doing, but are involved and invested for the long-term,” Conley says. And communities like Hohenwald can help to lead the way. On East Main Street in downtown Hohenwald, The Elephant Discovery Center offers visitors the opportunity to learn more about this keystone species through self-guided exhibits and educational programming. On the second Saturday of each month, a Sanctuary staff member visits the Center to talk about a particular theme, and audience members can ask questions about caring for the elephants. While there, visitors may just hear Shirley’s trumpeting sounds, miles down the road, enjoying her refuge as she lives out her final days in peace. G O O U TA N D P L AY

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THE BROOKIES ARE BACK

“Once there were brook trout in the streams in the mountains. You could see them standing in the amber current where the white edges of their fins wimpled softly in the flow. They smelled of moss in your hand. Polished and muscular and torsional. On their backs were vermiculate patterns that were maps of the world in its becoming. Maps and mazes. Of a thing which could not be put back. Not be made right again. In the deep glens where they lived all things were older than man and they hummed of mystery. ” —Cormac McCarthy, The Road

Thanks to scientists and anglers, brook trout are returning to native streams BY CHARLIE MORGAN

WHEN CORMAC MCCARTHY WROTE THESE

words in 2006, he offered a beautiful, powerful image of the brook trout among a bleak apocalyptic novel. This image of the brook trout from a clear mountain stream made you forget everything that happened in the rest of the harrowing story, and put you on a mossy, cool bank of a mountain stream, watching a brookie sway from one side to the other. Though the brook trout doesn’t face marauding bandits like the protagonist of The Road, brook trout face very real dangers today. Most people who live in Appalachia don’t realize that the brook trout is our only native species. Brook trout, or Salvelinus fontinalis, are more closely related to Arctic char in Canada and Alaska than other trout species. Holdovers from the last Ice Age, brook trout reside in clean mountain lakes, streams, and rivers from Northeast Canada to North Georgia and over to areas in the upper Midwest. They are the only trout native to the Eastern United States, and they struggle to compete with non-native rainbow and brown trout. While you would be hard-pressed to find an angler who would want to eradicate non-native species from every stream and river, fly fishers and scientists across the Blue Ridge are stepping up to protect brook trout in many of their native streams.

B R O O K T R O U T T H R I V E I N T H E H E A D WAT E R S A N D C O L D WAT E R S T R E A M S O F S O U T H E R N A P PA L A C H I A / D AV I D C A N N O N

How + Where To Fish For Brookies

D AV I D C A N N O N

Brookies vs. Rainbows and Browns “The most immediate and pervasive threats to brook trout are habitat loss and nonnative species—brown trout and rainbow trout, in particular,” says Shannon White, a fisheries biologist at Penn State. How did non-native brown and rainbow species end up in the mountains in the first place? During the early 20th century, logging and other resource extraction industries took a heavy toll on the water quality of mountain waterways across Appalachia. When those industries began to subside and tourism in the mountains began to rise, wellintending sportsmen introduced hardy species of European brown trout and rainbow trout from the West Coast. These species did very well in a lot of places, especially in lower elevation streams and rivers where brook trout are not suited to live. They continue to flourish throughout the Smokies. Rainbows and browns have not been stocked in over 70 years in the park, but they still thrive and provide exceptional sporting opportunities. However, rainbows and browns have encroached on the habitat of the brook trout. Brook trout struggle to survive in the Smokies and the rest of the Blue Ridge, usually hanging on in headwaters and higher-elevation streams. To fulfill their mission of protecting native fauna and flora, the National Park Service decided to remove rainbows and browns where possible in Great Smoky Mountains National Park to ensure populations of Southern Appalachian brookies could be reintroduced in 2007. To accomplish this, biologists essentially poisoned the water for browns and rainbows 48

with a pesticide on the Lynn Camp Prong of the Little River. Though the biologists tested the pesticide and insisted to the public that there was minimal damage to the other species in the streams, the practice was nonetheless very controversial. Rainbow trout and brown trout continue to be artificially reared and stocked in streams across the region. Trout stocking programs are a top priority of the state. Tourism hotspots like Gatlinburg, Tenn., and Cherokee, N.C., attract folks from all over the country to catch trout. These stocked, non-native trout excel at reproducing in Appalachian streams and rivers, and can quite easily get right back into brook trout habitat. On the Lynn Camp Prong and other sites, anglers still occasionally catch rainbows above the natural barriers.

In Hot Water

Climate change is another major challenge facing brook trout, says White. Trout streams that historically stayed cold all year long are warming up, and the fish cannot tolerate warmer water temperatures during the summer. As summers become hotter, the habitat and possible sites of restoration begin to shrink. White also reminds us that habitat loss through logging and resource extraction is still a very real threat to brook trout. Logging leads to increased sedimentation and more exposed streams with higher temperatures. One leading national group, Trout Unlimited, is focusing on habitat protection and restoration, with a pioneering project working to restore brook trout habitat in the headwaters of the Potomac, the Upper Gunpowder Watershed of Maryland, and Wilson Creek in North Carolina

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The first task is to take down small dams, culverts, and other obstructions that prevent brookies from traveling up and down stream. They’ve also developed a Brook Trout Portfolio Analysis, a GIS tool that shows areas where brook trout have the best chance to survive in the coming decades as conservationists cope with climate change. The map takes into account water pH, public land access, elevation, spring sources, proximity to logging and development. Trout Unlimited is also trying to improve eight miles of stream-side roads in Western NC to reduce stream sedimentation. “It’s common sense conservation,” says Trout Unlimited’s Appalachian coordinator Andy Brown. Everyone wants clean water, and no one can deny the impact of fishing on North Carolina’s economy. Last year it was around $380 million.” Brook trout face other challenges regionally. In Pennsylvania and West Virginia where coal was king, abandoned mines have acidified headwater streams. Across coal country, brook trout no longer inhabit 40 percent of the range that they once enjoyed. Brook trout restoration organizations like Trout Unlimited and Eastern Brook Trout Joint Venture have added limestone over time to balance the harsh acidity, and have seen success that lays the foundation for brook trout restoration in the coming years. Even well-intentioned trout stocking programs need to be mindful of brook trout habitat. Fish stocking agencies can often release rainbow and brook trout in or near brook trout habitat. Since these programs respond to pressures from the state, it is crucial for voters and taxpayers to support brook trout restoration. B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S

Though we should guard brook trout for the treasure that they are, don’t be shy about spending a day chasing these incredibly beautiful and aggressive fish. For many, it’s some of the most rewarding and fun fishing to be had. You’re often in places where you’re the only angler, and brook trout attack the fly ferociously. To get started, strike out with 7’ to 8’6” 3 or 4 weight rod with a floating line and a box of big brushy dry flies, like stimulators and yellow sallies in a size 12-16. Fish every pool and riffle in the stream, and try to cover a lot of ground while being stealthy. Don’t be afraid to crawl over boulders and get into skinny water, as the less-pressured fish are always the easiest to catch. You can fish for brookies in different places throughout the year, but the best dry fly season is between May and October. Just try to lay off the fishing if water temps climb to 70 degrees or more. While you can find your own hidden stream in the mountains above 3,000 feet, here’s a few places to start in your state: VIRGINIA

Shenandoah National Park Find a spot to park along Skyline Drive, or go to the headwaters of the Rapidan River for some truly impressive brookies. WEST VIRGINIA

Seneca Creek

Hailed as one of the best fishing destinations in the East, Seneca Creek is known for wild fish that are very spooky and challenging to catch. NORTH CAROLINA

Upper Deep Creek

Hike along Deep Creek Trail and go beyond the major bridge where tubers put in. Also cast a fly into the mouths of smaller feeder streams, especially the ones that are hard to get to. TENNESSEE

Lynn Camp Prong Head to the parking lot, rig up, and cross the bridge over the cascades to get into some wild brookies. It’s very steep, so be prepared to spend a lot of time negotiating boulders and steep terrain. GEORGIA

Noontootla Creek The lower part of Noontootla Creek is private water, but head upstream on Forest Service Road 58 to fish the headwaters. The creek can be quite wide in some places, and trophy brookies reside in the deeper pools. G O O U TA N D P L AY

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The sprawling Fontana Lake offers more than a dozen species of game fish from Trout to Walleye

BRYSON CITY N O RTH CA RO LI N A

WHAT DO YOU WANT TO CATCH TODAY? The fly fisherman’s ultimate getaway to Bryson City’s legendary trout waters and cooler September and October weather are a tantalizing combination for fly fishermen. Hundreds of miles of native mountain trout streams flow through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park above Bryson City and Cherokee —freestone creeks with native rainbow, brook and brown trout. Trout are also common in our four rivers— the Oconaluftee, Little Tennessee, Nantahala, and Tuckasegee with a 2.2-mile delayed harvest section flowing through downtown Bryson City. Two mountain lakes offer trout fishing. The 29-mile long, 11,700acre Fontana Lake and its smaller downstream neighbor Cheoah Lake both have strong populations of trout, particularly near the mouths of streams flowing out of the Great

Smoky Mountains National Park. The 30 miles of trout streams on the Cherokee Indian Reservation are the longest, privately owned and stocked fishing waters east of the Mississippi. The 2.2-mile Raven Fork Trophy section is home to the biggest trout in the Smokies.

fishing for native trout in the Great Smokies mountain streams

WHILE YOU'RE THERE Stop by the Fly Fishing Museum of the Southern Appalachians to learn about legendary “Stream Blazers,” the evolution of rods and reels, types of gear, and fly tying. Plan your visit for Saturday, October 13, and enjoy the 4th Annual Smoky Mountain Fly Fishing Festival downtown featuring rod and fly venders and the latest in apparel and accessories. Enjoy some local brews, and then dine on local trout at a number of restaurants in town.

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DRINK UP

THE BEST NEW BEVERAGES OF THE BLUE RIDGE BY KIM DINAN

The Blue Ridge is already known for its moonshine and microbreweries, but a new crop of flavorful and innovative beverages have been brewing (or fermenting) in these mountains lately. From sake to cider and soda to juice, we’re taking a look at the family-owned businesses that are bringing innovative new twists to the beverage industry and making the Blue Ridge a more exciting and diverse place to drink.

Cider NOBLE CIDER

Asheville, North Carolina When Noble Cider’s co-founder Trevor Baker was laid off from his job in 2012, he took it as an opportunity to reevaluate his career options. Because his wife and future Noble Cider co-founder Joanna Baker had grain allergies, the couple was always on the lookout for non-grain based alcohols, but they weren’t so easy to find in Asheville. “We were amazed that there weren’t any cider makers in the area,” says Baker, “even though we had

apples just down the road.” So Baker, Joanna, and co-founder Lief Stevens, decided that they would fill that gap in the market. “We put it all together and said, hey, let’s do this,” says Baker. He signed up for a 10-day commercial cider making class north of Seattle, and when he returned he immediately began working on the paperwork to create Noble Cider. “We rented a little multi-unit commercial space in South Asheville,” says Baker. “It all began in a tiny little garage.” They launched with $17,000 between them. “It was bootstrapped for sure,” says Baker, “but we wrote a good business plan and leveraged that with an economic development loan. They were willing to take a gamble on us and that’s how we started.”

For the record, cider is fermented fruit juice, explains Baker. “Much like grape juice gets turned into wine, apple juice gets turned into cider. Cider is technically a wine. We don’t brew. We ferment.” Initially, Baker and his co-founders built their own rack and cloth apple press and bought 8 plastic fermenters. They pressed 2,000 gallons of apples and launched on Memorial Day 2013. “We thought 2,000 gallons would last us until Labor Day, but we sold 2,000 gallons in a little over a month,” says Baker. “We were taken by surprise by that,” he remembers with a laugh. Many of their apples come from right down the road in Anderson County, the biggest apple county in North Carolina. “We have juiced our own apples from day one,” says Baker, “first with a hand-built press and, more recently, with a commercial press and processing line.” Today, Noble Cider is distributed all across North Carolina, upper South Carolina, Northeastern Georgia and in Nashville, Tennessee. This fall, they’ll open a taproom and restaurant in downtown Asheville. Baker says that his goal has never been about cider world domination but about opening up more taprooms around the state and remaining a regional company. “Getting further and further out with distribution provides some logistical challenges,” he says. “In some ways distribution is not really suited to the type of cider we make. We aren’t fermenting Chinese concentrate in water, we are using expensive inputs, so our margins aren’t as good as a big cider company,” explains Baker. “We will stick to a regional model, and of course North Carolina,” he says, giving a nod to the place where it all started.

NOBLE CIDER CO-FOUNDERS TREVOR BAKER (LEFT) AND LIEF STEVENS (RIGHT) H A R V E S T M A N Y O F T H E I R A P P L E S L O C A L L Y.

Nitro Cold Pressed Coffee SNOWING IN SPACE COFFEE Charlottesville, Virginia

For years, Paul Dierkes, co-founder of Snowing in Space Coffee, was a sugar and cream in his coffee kind of guy. But that all changed when, in a rush, he ran into a deli to grab his daily cup and all they had was cold brew. Reluctantly, he ordered it. “I was taken aback by how easy it was to drink,” says Dierkes. “I didn’t need to add anything to it.” Dierkes, who has a marketing and advertising background in the craft beer industry, immediately started thinking about how the philosophy and business model behind craft beer could be applied to a cold brew coffee company. He sat on the idea for a while before bringing it up to his wife. I told her, “I have all of these ideas and I normally don’t do anything with them, but I really think we have something with this one,” he says. When his wife gave the thumbs up, he asked his co-founders Joel Artz, who has experience in the craft brewing industry, and Damien Warshall, who has a background in operations and finance, to come on board. “We really wanted this innovative, experimental nitro coffee company,” says Dierkes. Cold brew coffee is exactly what it sounds like: coffee that is brewed cold instead of hot. Snowing in Space steeps their coffee grounds in water over a period of 16-18 hours. Afterwards, the coffee is infused with nitrogen. The result is a creamy, less bitter, less acidic, ready-to-drink coffee with a longer shelf life.

Dierkes and his co-founders launched Snowing in Space Coffee in 2016. Initially they had just a single account, installing a few taps of nitro cold brew coffee into an office building in downtown Charlottesville. But the reception was positive, and in April 2017 they opened a taproom on West Main Street in Charlottesville across from the Amtrak station. “It’s more like a bar than a coffee shop,” says Dierkes. “We have 9 or 10 different styles on tap. You can get flights like you’d get at a brewery.” Snowing in Space keeps it local, working with 10 different roasters from Virginia and D.C. “We are able to work with them to create unique styles using either a blend they’ve created or a single origin bean,” says Dierkes. In June 2017 they introduced canned nitro cold pressed coffee to the marketplace. Their four flagship cans are now in over 200 independent retailers in Virginia, D.C., and southern Maryland. And while Dierkes hopes that the success of Snowing in Space Coffee continues to grow, he’s most concerned with keeping his current customers happy. “We are focused on making a really good product and getting it to the people of Virginia and D.C.,” he says.

Natural Soda WAYNESVILLE SODA JERKS Waynesville, North Carolina

In 2013, Megan Brown and Chris Allen lived just a few blocks from the farmers market in Waynesville, North Carolina, where they shopped

regularly. Visiting the market one day, they noticed that there weren’t any drink vendors. As employees of the local restaurant industry, they’d always hoped to strike out on their own, so they decided to start a small booth selling soda. “That was all we planned to do in the beginning,” says Brown. “But that first year it really took off.” Born and raised in Haywood County, Brown and Allen say their motivation for creating a soda company runs much deeper than just creating a delicious beverage. “Both of our families have been in agriculture for generations,” says Allen. “We understand the importance and quality of local agriculture and we wanted to highlight that.” To that end, many of Waynesville Soda Jerk’s sodas are fruit based and highlight the produce grown at farms in and around Waynesville. In 2015, Waynesville Soda Jerks began bottling their product. Today, they distribute primarily in Western North Carolina. Allen says that the reception has been overwhelmingly positive. “People want a product that is made with the same philosophies as craft brews,” says Allen. “They want products that are true to natural ingredients and are made with transparency in the supply chain.” Allen adds that some of their largest and most successful accounts are with breweries themselves. “Not everyone that goes to breweries drinks alcohol, but they want to have the same experience and quality,” says Allen. But as passionate as Brown and Allen are about making soda, Allen says that their biggest goal is to have positive impacts on the local economy,

either by growing Waynesville Soda Jerks or by starting other local businesses like the old-fashioned soda shop that Brown hopes to open one day. “It’s not just about the soda we make,” says Allen. “It’s about what is grown in this area and its potential.”

Sake PROPER SAKE

Nashville, Tennessee The first time that Byron Stithem tasted old world unpasteurized sake he knew he wanted to replicate it. “It’s not filtered, it’s not diluted, and it’s completely untouched by heat,” says Stithem. Taken by the taste, Stithem began brewing old world style sake at home. “My mission ever since has been to continue to perpetuate these cool and beautiful Japanese traditions in a way that is approachable to the western public.” Sake, explains Stithem, is a simple concoction of rice, water, koji—the emblematic start used to carry out fermentation—and yeast. It’s not a distillate, as many people assume, but a natural brew. “At some point somebody accidentally left out a bowl of rice and water and it started to ferment and made a beverage,” says Stithem about sake’s origins. Though the first sake may have been a fluke, there’s not much accidental about sake today. Stithem says that the sake he makes has an extremely identifiable back end flavor profile that lingers on the palate. And though sake is a natural brew like beer, the finished product actually has more in common with wine.

Stithem’s background is in culinary science, so after years of making sake at home and in culinary labs, he decided to open Proper Sake with a business partner. Together, they followed trends of exported sake from Japan and noticed that sake sales were rising steadily in the western world. Noting sake’s growing popularity in the U.S., Stithem and his business partner decided to take the leap. But Stithem says that even if the data hadn’t suggested that the western world is beginning to pay attention to sake he would have started Proper Sake anyway. “I care deeply about sake and would like to see it have its day in the sun,” he says. Proper Sake is currently distributed in Tennessee, Alabama and Louisiana and will soon be available in Georgia and North Carolina. In October 2017, Stithem opened a tasting room in downtown Nashville in the Pie Town neighborhood, close to the convention center. Though the reception has been humbling, Stithem says he still has a lot of work to do. “Sake is such an unknown for so many people,” he says. “Now we just have to figure out how to get more people to consume it on a daily basis in their own homes.”

Cold-pressed juice TRAILHEAD JUICE Chattanooga, Tennessee

When you ask Michelle Sutter, owner of Trailhead Juice in Chattanooga, Tennessee, why she opened a coldpressed juice shop, she doesn’t skip a

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BEYOND BEER

MORE INNOVATIVE DRINK COMPANIES

Cider

beat. “I felt like the reason that people don’t take as good a care of themselves as they can is because it’s not convenient for them,” she says. Driven by her desire to provide healthy and convenient beverages to her community, Sutter launched Trailhead Juice in March of 2017. Sutter sees Trailhead Juice as more than just a place where people can come to get nutritious and affordable fuel for their bodies. In her storefront, which is located at the end of Chattanooga’s river walk, Sutter allows local artists to display their work and local bands play on her patio. She also sells locally handcrafted goods in her shop. “It’s kind of a community center and juice bar,” she says. But Sutter’s main goal is providing convenient and healthy drink alternatives to the community, something that she says cold-press juices do extremely well. “Traditional juicers spin like a blender,” explains Sutter. “So they heat the vegetables and fruit and a lot of nutrients are lost. With cold press nothing is heated. The produce is brought in fresh, rinsed and put through a hydraulic press that squeezes the pulp through cheesecloth. Since there’s no heat, there’s no loss of minerals, vitamins and nutrients,” she says. The benefits of coldpressed juice, says Sutter, are vast. “Juicing allows the digestive tract time to rest,” she explains. “The juice is absorbed through the stomach lining straight into the bloodstream so there is no digestive process. There’s no waste, so to speak. It’s a 54

shot of health straight to the bloodstream.” Sutter uses as much local produce as possible and says her goal is to bring her coldpressed juices to as many people as she can reach in Chattanooga and beyond. “In the next five years I’d like to have at least two more storefronts,” she says. Sutter also says she’d like to take the show on the road. “I’d love to get a trailer and travel the city going to the strawberry festival, musical festivals and art festivals, “Sutter says. “I want to educate people on the benefits of juicing and offer the alternative in a lot of places where it’s not available.”

Kombucha BLUE RIDGE BUCHA

Waynesboro, Virginia Sixteen years ago, Kate Zuckerman’s husband, Ethan, was a college student in California. One fateful day, Ethan’s roommate brought home a scoby—a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast that is used to propagate a fermented tea called kombucha—and Ethan started experimenting with it. “He really took to it,” says Zuckerman. After years of homebrewing kombucha, the Zuckermans launched Blue Ridge Bucha in 2010. The company began as what Zuckerman refers to as a CSK (community supported kombucha), similar to a community supported

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BOLD ROCK CIDER Mills River, N.C + Nellysford, Va. Bold Rock was birthed in the Blue Ridge. With two cideries—one in Mills River, N.C., and the other in Nellysford, Va.—Bold Rock sources all of its apples from local orchards within 35 miles. Founded in 2012, Bold Rock has become the country’s largest independently owned cider company. Bold Rock produces seven colorful, flavorful ciders, including blackberry, rose, pear, Virginia Apple, and Carolina Apple. Bold Rock is distributed across the Southeast and Mid-Atlantic, but it’s stayed true to its Appalachian roots, crushing and crafting all of its hard cider in the mountains of Virginia and North Carolina. SUPREME CORE CIDER Washington, D.C. Known for their use of local fruit from family-owned orchards, Supreme Core’s brewery-style taproom has over ten different varieties of cider made onsite. SHIPS WHEEL HARD CIDER Charleston, South Carolina Family owned and operated, Ships Wheel Hard Cider is pressed, fermented and bottled right at their orchard to ensure the freshest cider possible. TREEHORN CIDER Marietta, Georgia Using apples grown no more than 150 miles outside of Atlanta, Treehorn Cider serves fresh, locally produced cider in their Marietta taproom.

Nitro Cold Pressed / Cold Brew Coffee

CONVERGENT COFFEE COMPANY Richmond, Virginia

Using organic beans from local roasters, Convergent Coffee Company makes four delicious flavors of nitro cold pressed coffee. COMMONWEALTH JOE COFFEE Arlington, Virginia With over 14 years of roasting experience, Commonwealth Joe’s brings their coffee to offices, retailers and the public via their fleet of Nitro Cold Brew trikes in Arlington. RIPTIDE COFFEE Charleston, South Carolina Riptide roasts and cold brews single origin beans that are sustainably sourced from South America and delivers cold brew coffee kegs around the southeast.

Natural Soda PURE SODAWORKS Chattanooga, Tennessee Made with pure cane sugar and real ingredients, Pure Sodaworks is known for crafting uniquely flavored natural soda like Orange Basil and Cucumber Wasabi. CANNONBOROUGH CRAFT SODA Charleston, South Carolina Free from artificial preservatives and bottled in small batches, Cannonborough Craft Soda is made from fresh fruits, herbs and spices resulting in a refreshing non-alcoholic drink. BROOD SODA Durham, North Carolina Known for their use of citrus fruits, especially key lime juice, Brood soda is also made with natural herbs and, proudly, a little more sugar than other natural soda companies.

Cold-Press Juices FRANKLIN JUICE COMPANY Nashville, Tennessee Serves up organic coldpressed juices and acai bowls since its inception in 2014. B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S

GUNDALOW JUICE Baltimore, Maryland Free from added sugar, added water, and caffeine, the juices made at Gundalow Juice are made solely with fruits and vegetables and bottled without the use of preservatives. COLD OFF THE PRESS Raleigh, North Carolina Unpasteurized and raw, Cold Off the Press juices can be delivered directly to your door in Raleigh, Durham and throughout the triangle.

Sake NORTH AMERICAN SAKE Charlottesville, Virginia Virginia’s first sake brewery is already creating quite the buzz. North American Sake is opening its doors in downtown Charlottesville this month and will serve sake on tap. BEN’S TUNE UP Asheville, North Carolina Though they’re not exclusively a sake brewery, Ben’s Tune Up blends rice and water to create fresh and cold American sake on tap.

Kombucha BUCHI KOMBUCHA Marshall, North Carolina Founded in a kitchen by two self-described moms, the owners of Buchi Kombucha opened the first commercial kombucha brewery in the southeast. GOLDA KOMBUCHA Atlanta, Georgia Georgia’s first kombucha company, the recipe for Golda Kombucha tea comes from Golda herself, a vivacious nonagenarian who has been brewing her family recipe for over forty years. WILD KOMBUCHA / MOBTOWN FERMENTATION Baltimore, Maryland Mobtown serves up fruity flavors of kombucha such as mango, peach, and apple spice.

G O O U TA N D P L AY

B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S

EAST COAST BIAS

The Live Outside and Play Road Team is back in the Blue Ridge! It may still be hot outside, but the days are getting a little bit shorter, our shadows growing a little bit longer and we can smell the season slowly changing. We had a wonderful summer out West representing Elevation Outdoors, but we’re stoked to be back East and experience the glory of fall in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Make sure to check our blog for event updates and see where to find us!

SEPTEMBER 2018

Add Bedford to your must-do list! A mecca for outdoor enthusiasts, Bedford offers an abundance of choices for your next adventure. From the Blue Ridge Parkway to Smith Mountain Lake, miles of trails and shoreline await! Falling Creek Park, spanning 250 acres, offers mountain bike trails, disc golf, and a world-class skate park. 877-hi-peaks | visitbedford.com |

2018 ROAD TOUR

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OCT 5-7

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CRAZY CREEK CRAZY LEGS LEISURE CHAIR If you have met us at a festival then you have seen these chairs! The Crazy Legs Leisure Chairs are our go-to for those long days manning the tent or relaxed evenings at camp. This captain’s-style chair comes with armrests, a collapsible side table and a side organizer so you can keep all of your goodies within arm’s reach at all times. $82 LOWE ALPINE AEON ND16 One thing we’ve always loved about Lowe Alpine is that the brand makes female-specific haulers. Lowe designs these women’s packs so that they perfectly accommodate the physiological and anatomical demands of the female backpacker. The new Aeon ND16 is the perfect backpack for women who do it all. $100

Greenbrier river trail

your next adventure awaits... Your next epic adventure is waiting in Nature’s Mountain Playground. Miles and miles of Hiking and Biking trails traverse river-laced lowlands and high mountain views. Whether you have kids in tow, or are young at heart, Adventure Awaits you. It It’s time to get your adventure on. Plan your next adventure at: NaturesMtnPlayground.com/adventure43

T hings we can do... fun stuff to do on our trip to P ocahontas County

_ The Leaves of Fall Walk Sept. 15, Beartown State P ark

SEA TO SUMMIT X-POT KETTLE When space is at a premium—like it is in our van—we always turn to Sea To Summit for our cookware. We’ve use their entire line of collapsible cookware both in the van and in the backcountry. The X-Pot Kettle is perfect for boiling water for morning coffee in the van or for making meals on a backpacking trip. It’s also made from heat-resistant, food-grade silicone so you stay safe. $45

_ Hallo ween at Cass Oct. 26 -27, Cass Scenic Railroad State P ark _ Explore Watoga State P ark Home of:

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800.336.7009 NaturesMountainPlayground.com Text “adventure43” to 304.782.0400

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Don’t waste your vacation days behind a desk! or beer tasting, learn some history, take an art class and enjoy the weekend at the Taste of the Mountains Main Street Festival, Apple Harvest, or Hops and Homestead Festival. Stay in a B&B, cabin, camper, RV Lodge, vacation rental house, tent or even a luxurious yurt!

Hiking Trails • Mountain Biking Trails • Picnicking Primitive Camping • Backpacking Blue Ridge Parkway Foundation – Kids in Parks Trail Guided Hikes • Nature Workshops • Geo-caching NEW RIVER TRAIL STATE PARK CRYSTAL SPRINGS RECREATION AREA

www.visitdamascus.org

(540) 948-4455 MADISONVA.COM

Ready to roll!

Damascus, Virginia is known best as "Trail Town USA", where several nationally known trails intersect within our borders, but we are so much more! We are a place of stunning natural beauty, where the hills of the Appalachians and the murmuring of our creeks inspire you, whether your calling is outdoor adventure, or simply living in an authentic small town. The Damascus lifestyle is adventurous and creative, yet laid-back and well-paced. It’s a place where you can be super-active, or where you reconnect to nature, rejuvenate, and find your inner peace. Most importantly, it’s a place where you can choose your own path. So come spend some time with us and grip life by the handlebars!

visitwytheville.com • 1-877-347-8307 56

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agriculture program but with kombucha. “People would sign up for weekly shares and we would brew to order,” says Zuckerman. Extremely passionate about protecting the environment, the Zuckerman’s made sure that clients returned and reused their bottles. That worked for a while, but eventually “we turned more into a bottle washing company than a kombucha brewing company,” says Zuckerman. In order to remain true to their low waste mission, the Zuckerman’s decided that they had to figure out how to get kombucha into kegs—a groundbreaking move at the time. There was one company on the west coast kegging kombucha, and Ethan flew out to learn. Back in Virginia, the Zuckermans started distributing their kegs of kombucha. They now also have a pre-packaged, pre-filled bottle line that is refillable on draft. And in June, they launched a new taproom on the east side of Waynesboro. “The focus is on a non-alcoholic craft beverage and a family friendly environment,” says Zuckerman. While the Zuckermans are excited about the future of Blue

Ridge Bucha, they’re most excited about the fact that they’ve managed to build a brand and a customer base that’s committed to reducing waste. “One thing that is most inspiring to me and Ethan is that customers say, ‘I started refilling my bottles and that also made me bring my bags to the grocery store and turn off the water when I brush my teeth,” says Zuckerman. “There is an extra step that you take to commit to drinking our kombucha.” Over the years, Zuckerman estimates that her customers have saved over 800,000 bottles by reusing. It’s a stat that illustrates that Blue Ridge Bucha really lives up to their tagline: big flavor, small footprint. And that mind toward conservation isn’t going anywhere soon. “We are really looking forward to the million bottles saved mark,” says Zuckerman.

Beer Here

There’s no shortage of breweries in the Blue Ridge. But if you’re looking to grab a pint at a place that serves up delicious beer and a consciousness towards protecting the streams and forests that we love, make a pit stop at one of these conservation-minded breweries.

Art Department

Attention College Students

Earn credit while thru-hiking

the Appalachian Trail! Easily transfer from your college to ours for a Semester.

SEMESTER-A-TRAIL PROGRAM The only one in the United States. Jim Harrison, Outdoor Program Director • 276.698.7121

Call today or find out more at: www.ehc.edu/AT

SWEETWATER BREWING COMPANY Atlanta, Georgia

Twenty-one years ago, Freddy Bensch founded SweetWater Brewing Company. An avid outdoorsman, Bensch named the company after SweetWater Creek, his favorite place to paddle, fish, and be in nature. From the beginning, SweetWater Brewing has been passionate about protecting natural resources. Each summer, the company gives away $100,000 to conservation groups that clean up the waterways and protect natural habitats in their distribution area. Stopping by SweetWater? Try the 420 Extra Pale Ale.

WILD WOLF BREWING COMPANY Nellysford, Virginia

From a very young age Daniel Wolf, brewmaster and co-founder of Wild Wolf Brewing Company, was taught the three R’s: reduce, reuse and recycle. He grew up with a respect for the environment and an understanding that natural resources aren’t easy to replace, so when he opened Wild Wolf Brewing in 2011, he brought those principles of conservation with him. The brewery sits on 10 acres of old farmland and has 500 square feet of food and pollinator gardens and a hop yard where chickens roam, eating bugs and fertilizing the land. Wild Wolf also composts all of the food scraps that come out of their kitchen, except for proteins. “We are always asking ourselves how we can be better,” says Wolf. Stopping by Wild Wolf? Try the Blonde Hunny.

BEARWATERS BREWING COMPANY Canton, North Carolina

Situated on the bank of the Pigeon River, water plays an important role in everything BearWaters Brewing does. “We want people to know about the importance of water and what it means to take care of our streams and rivers,” says coowner Art O’Neil. Each beer that BearWaters distributes is attached to a particular cause with a percentage of the proceeds going to non-profits like the Haywood Waterways Foundation. Large

aquariums inside of the brewery feature species from the river and a grant from the Pigeon River Fund has helped with bank restoration. BearWaters Brewing also recently put in boat access so people enjoying the water can stop in and grab a beer. “We are trying to be a spokesperson of the river and let people know why they should get in and enjoy it,” says O’Neil. Stopping by BearWaters Brewing? Try the Heavy Cream Milk Stout.

ALLIANCE BREWING COMPANY Knoxville, Tennessee

When your Head Cellarman and COO is a retired mechanical engineer, you come up with innovative ways to reduce water waste. At Alliance Brewing, when employees clean tanks, the water and chemicals are siphoned back out and saved so that they can be used again in the cleaning process. Alliance is a member of Brewers for Clean Water, a cause that is important to the company not just because their beer is made with water, but because their brewery is located on the banks of the Tennessee River where the Holsten and French Broad Rivers meet. Stopping by Alliance Brewing? Try the Citra Blonde.

PISGAH BREWING COMPANY

Black Mountain, North Carolina Founded with the tagline, ‘We all drink downstream,’ Pisgah Brewing’s general manager Benton Wharton says that the phrase is meant to remind people that everything we do affects our community. That community mindedness has produced some great partnerships for Pisgah, including a 13-year relationship with the Foothills Family Farms, where all of Pisgah Brewing’s spent grains are sent to feed the local livestock. Pisgah also uses all organic grains and malts in their brews and all other ingredients that are sourced as close as possible. Those were conscious choices, but when it comes to the water in their beer they just got lucky. “We have a clean and closely sourced watershed,” says Wharton. “For us, the process of making beer is simple.” Stopping by Pisgah Brewing? Try the Pisgah Pale Ale.

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TRAIL MIX

BRIGHT EYES RAYLAND BAXTER OPENS UP ON NEW ALBUM, WIDE AWAKE BY JEDD FERRIS

RAYLAND BAXTER SOUNDS ENLIGHTENED—lyrically and sonically—on his new album, Wide Awake. On previous efforts, the Nashville-based singer-songwriter, who’s toured with the Lumineers and the Head and the Heart, delivered wise observations with loose Americana grace, but this time he tightened his focus and crafted taut, vintage pop songs with shimmering Beatles-esque hooks. Baxter started the record by moving into an old tire factory turned studio in rural Kentucky, where he wrote intensely in isolation. There he came up with topical songs, sharing his take on gun control (“79 Shiny Revolvers”) and debt (“Casanova”) with sly humor and heartfelt optimism. When it was time to record, Baxter teamed up with producer Butch Walker and assembled a dynamic backing band that included Cage the Elephant’s Nick Bockrath and Dr. Dog drummer Eric Slick to fulfill his vision. He muses on the shaky state of the world with the resilience of a positive groove. T E L L M E A B O U T YO U R W R I T I N G R E T R E AT AT T H E O L D FAC TO R Y I N K E N T U C K Y.

Around Halloween of 2016, I moved into my buddy’s recording studio that he, at that point, was just building piece by piece. I lived in there for three months; I had a bed, a Wurlitzer, and an old 1950s Gibson guitar that my dad gave me. I started writing, all day every day. I remember when I first started listening to Bob Dylan, and learning about how he would hole up in the Chelsea Hotel. That focused process worked for a lot of my favorite writers, and it’s something I’ve always wanted to do. I like my time alone. THIS RECORD IS MORE POLITICAL T H A N YO U R PA S T W O R K . H OW D I D T H AT T H R E A D I N YO U R W R I T I N G S TA R T ?

The news channel was always on in the kitchen, so at first I was checking in on the Cubs winning the World Series. Then (after the Presidential election) this whole shift of power went down, and I noticed this rage but also people trying to come together with acceptance and love. I started analyzing my own thoughts and writing about them. That gets to the album title, Wide Awake. I wanted to write songs about some topical issues, but 58

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also just become a better songwriter. AT T H E S A M E T I M E T H E M U S I C A L A R R A N G E M E N T S A R E U P B E AT A N D POP-DRIVEN.

That came when I was writing. I decided I wanted to make simple popform songs that people could carry around and not lose in a confusing chord progression. That was my focus, and then the great group of musicians I worked with made it happen. Butch Walker, who produced and played bass, is a singer-songwriter himself. Eric Slick is an incredible drummer who really got behind the groove of the rhythm guitar I set in the song demos. Everyone knew how to service the songs and lift them up. D I D YO U F I N D S O M E P E R S O N A L R E S O LU T I O N BY T H E E N D O F T H E A L B U M , H E N C E T H E C LO S E R , “ L E T I T ALL GO MAN”?

I think we all lose sight of the purpose of being a human being. It’s not to make money or voice our opinions on the Internet. The true purpose is to see the world for the beautiful thing that it is. It’s nice to appreciate a sunset dipping behind the mountains, or at least to find something like that every day. That song really is about an approach—a mentality. YO U R DA D, B U C K Y B A X T E R , APPEARS ON THE ALBUM. DID HIS PA S T WO R K A S A G U I TA R I S T W I T H T H E G R E AT S L I K E DY L A N A N D S T E V E E A R L E I N F LU E N C E YO U W H E N YO U WERE GROWING UP?

It does now. When I was a kid I knew it was cool, but I wasn’t really concerned with all that. As time has gone on, I’ve really started to appreciate it. Now when I go back and listen to a Dylan album with my dad on it, I feel a different connection to the music. It adds more fuel to the fire for what I’m doing now. YO U ’ V E M E N T I O N E D I N T H E PA S T T H AT YO U ’ R E I N TO T H E O U T D O O R S . T H E S E DAY S , H O W D O YO U L I K E TO S T R E TC H YO U R L E G S I N B E T W E E N TO U R S TO P S ?

On my off days I like to paddle down a river or take really long walks. When I’m home in Nashville, my family has secluded property outside of the city where I go fishing with my pops. Rayland Baxter headlines the first night of the Devils Backbone Hoopla Festival in Roseland, Va. (September 28).