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October 2016 CONTENTS
FEATURES
19 COLORS WITHOUT CROWDS DEPARTMENTS
8 QUICK HITS
Bikers bare all • Mitchell State Park expands • New fly fishing museum opens • Overweight preacher sees the light, runs across Tennessee
10 FLASHPOINT
Armed militants aren't the only one declaring war on public lands.
15 THE DIRT
10 outdoor candidates fighting to protect the places where you play.
31 THE GOODS
Legendary guide Swis Stockton picks his favorite climbing gear.
46 TRAIL MIX
Avett Brothers and Warren Haynes team up to play Jerry.
Want to avoid the leaf peeping masses? Soak up the colors in solitude on one of these ten fall foliage hikes less traveled.
25 CLIMBING BACK
With the coal industry on the decline, Breaks Interstate Park—on the Kentucky-Virginia border—is hopeful that the area’s recreation tourism scene will climb to the top. Literally.
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35 BEER TRAILS
These craft brewery routes combine the best suds and scenery in the South.
41 COMING SOON: 25 PIPELINES
The Atlantic Coast Pipeline has grabbed most of the headlines, but over two dozen additional natural gas pipelines have been proposed for the East, crossing national forests, state parks, and suburban backyards.
North Carolina Appalachian Trail
License Plate Application The Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) now has a specialty license tag in the state of North Carolina. By getting your tag today, you’ll help the ATC protect and maintain America’s Facts Favorite Long Distance Trail! The ATC will receive $20 annually for each AT plate purchased or renewed. How Much Does It Cost? $30 Regular Appalachian Trail plate* $60 Personalized Appalachian Trail plate* You are allowed four (4) spaces for a personalized message. __ __ __ __ 2nd Choice __ __ __ __ 3rd Choice __ __ __ __ 1st Choice
TO ORDER, VISIT APPALACHIANTRAIL.ORG/ATCPLATES Name (as shown on certificate of title): FIRST
MIDDLE
CITY
STATE
LAST
ADDRESS
ZIP CODE
HOME PHONE
COVER PHOTO BY SAMANTHA BROOKE MIGNONE
/ SAMAN TH A B ROOKEPHOTO.C OM
You must already have the vehicle registered in North Carolina. You receive a FREE ATC Membership with the purchase of your NC AT Tag. *The $30 or $60 annual fee is in addition to regular annual license fees you have already paid. Personalized tags may be relinquished to someone else, but once a numerical tag expires without renewal, that number can never again be reissued. If you change your mind, you can go back to a regular license plate at any time. There will not be a refund of unused portion of special fees. Additional applications can be found online at
All proceeds received from each state will help manage and protect the Trail.
OFFICE PHONE
Current North Carolina Vehicle _______________________ ____________________________________ PLATE NUMBER
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER
______________________ ____________________________________ DRIVER’S LICENSE #
YEAR
MODEL
MAKE
BODY STYLE
www.appalachiantrail.org
O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M Owner’s Certification of Liability Insurance I certify for the motor vehicle described above that I have financial responsibility as required by law. FULL NAME OF INSURANCE COMPANY AUTHORIZED IN NC – NOT AGENCY OR GROUP
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CONTRIBUTORS
PRESIDENT
10.16
BLAKE DEMASO
ED ITOR I N C H I E F
WILL HARLAN
will@blueridgeoutdoors.com PUBLISHER
LEAH WOODY
leah@blueridgeoutdoors.com A RT D I R E C TO R
MEGAN JORDAN
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Editorial & Production JEDD FERRIS
S EN I O R E D ITOR
jedd@blueridgeoutdoors.com TRAV E L E D ITO R
PROUD BEST OF THE BLUE RIDGE 2016
JESS DADDIO
jess@blueridgeoutdoors.com S EN I O R D E S I G N E R
LAUREN WALKER
lauren@blueridgeoutdoors.com GRAPHIC DESIGNER
PAIGELEE CHANCELLOR
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MASON ADAMS, GRAHAM AVERILL, LUCIE HANES, LAURA INGLES, WADE MICKLEY, DAVE STALLARD, DANIELLE TAYLOR C O P Y E D ITO RS
JULIA GREEN, ROBERT MCGEE Advertising & Business SE N I OR AC C OU N T E X E C UT I V E
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DUSTY ALLISON
dusty@blueridgeoutdoors.com AC C OU N T E X E C UT I V E
KATIE HARTWELL
katie@blueridgeoutdoors.com AC C OU N T E X E C UT I V E
LAURIE POWELL
laurie@blueridgeoutdoors.com B U S I N E S S MA N AG E R
MELISSA GESSLER
melissa@blueridgeoutdoors.com CIRCULATION MANAGER
HANNAH COOPER
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Digital Media CRAIG SNODGRASS
O N L I N E D I R E C TO R
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IF YOU COULD GO ON ANY ADVENTURE WITH ANY EXPLORER, PAST OR PRESENT, WHERE WOULD YOU GO AND WHO WOULD YOU TAKE? JOHN JETER
JESS DADDIO
Capt. Sir Richard Burton. He traveled Arabia—and into Mecca—and translated the Arabian Nights. And wrote a lot. What a stud.
The River of Doubt, now known as the Roosevelt River, situated in the heart of the Amazon with Theodore Roosevelt. Legend.
RANDY JOHNSON
PAT KELLER
I would love to be with Andre Michaux in 1794, climbing through towering virgin spruce, to the summit of Grandfather Mountain where he sang out the Marseillaise at the view. Second choice—same place, 1898 with John Muir—when he too burst into song on my favorite mountain, "at the face of all heaven come down on earth."
JOHNNY MOLLOY I would accompany Daniel Boone through Cumberland Gap on what became the Wilderness Road.
I would tour around Yosemite with John Muir—up the Merced and over to Mount Ritter, then down through as many tributaries and creeks that we could access. Surely he would have some perfect rapids stashed away. I'd bring a kayak for him as well.
DOWNTOWN
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257-B CONNOR DRIVE CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA 22911
WILL HARLAN I would walk these mountains with the first indigenous people. I would have loved to see Appalachia through their eyes, in their footsteps.
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QUICK HITS
10 .16
FLY FISHING MUSEUM OPENS On September 24, 2016, outdoor enthusiasts gathered in Bryson City, North Carolina, to salute the first inductees into the Fly Fishing Hall of Fame. The Fly Fishing Museum of the Southern Appalachians was a brainchild of Alen Baker, who beamed as crowds honored the museum’s inaugural inductees. including author Jim Casada, a Bryson City native son who has written on everything from fly fishing to turkey hunting; Wanda Taylor, the first woman in the nation to become a Master Certified Casting Instructor with the Federation of Fly Fishers; conservationist Phil Braceway of Trout Unlimited; and Walt Cary, “the Popping Bug King” who has handcrafted cork poppers for more than fifty years. The museum is open daily for walkin visitors. Artifacts include the first handmade drift boat for fly fishing in the Southern Appalachians, rare fly fishing gear, and fly patterns original to the region. —Beau Beasley
SHORTS
BLUE RIDGE BRIEFS by JEDD FERRIS FAYETTE COUNTY FIGHTS FRACKING Commissioners in West Virginia’s Fayette County don’t want fracking waste within their borders, but a federal judge is saying they have to allow it. In June, a federal court ruling sided with the energy company EQT Production who sued to nullify the county’s ban on fracking waste disposal—a measure enacted over concerns about the documented health risks of waste wells. Now the Fayette County Commissioners are pushing back with an appeal with the 4th U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals. MITCHELL STATE PARK EXPANDS Mount Mitchell State Park will more than double in size thanks to efforts from The Conservation Fund. They will sell to the state two tracts totaling 2,744 acres on the western slope of the Black Mountains. The park now occupies 1,996 acres around the highest peak in the East. The new acreage includes 6,584-foot Cattail Peak, currently the highest privately-owned peak in the East. The acquisition will also expand the state park down the mountain to the Cane River, which will allow public access to the park when the peak is closed by snow. BIKERS BARE ALL IN PHILLY On September 10, an estimated 3,000 cyclists pedaled through the streets of Philadelphia with nothing between their bottoms and bike seats. At the eighth annual Philly Naked Bike Ride bold bikers pedaled 10 miles through the City of Brotherly Love, most cruising the urban pavement in their
illustration by WADE MICKLEY
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birthday suits with some choosing the minimal cover of underwear or festive body paint. The yearly mass ride in the buff has multiple objectives, including raising awareness for cycling safety and alternative transportation and encouraging people to be proud of their bodies. PARKWAY EXPANDS AFTER BIG GIFT The Blue Ridge Parkway’s footprint in North Carolina will be expanded by 1,654 acres, thanks to a generous donation from the Nature Conservancy. The land conservation nonprofit gifted the large parcel— located near the Plott Balsam Mountains in Jackson County and worth $3.1 million—to the National Park Service in mid-August. Visible from the Waterrock Knob Overlook near milepost 452, the land holds rare flora and fauna, including the endangered Indiana bat and scarce spruce-fir habitat. The acquisition will also increase the size of the Parkway’s
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new Waterrock Knob Park. TENNESSEE PREACHER DROPS POUNDS, GAINS MILES Props to David Pharr: A Chattanooga-based minister and father of four, who over the summer completed the Last Annual Vol State Road Race, a 314-mile slog from his home state to Castle Rock, Georgia. The accomplishment was the culmination of an impressive transformation for Pharr, who, nearly seven years ago, weighed 314 pounds and decided it was time to get in shape. According to Runner's World, Pharr started running at least two miles every day since December 1, 2009, and he's now 100 pounds lighter. VIRGINIA TECH TESTING BIKE HELMETS A team of researchers at Virginia Tech is testing the safety level of bike helmets. The work being done by the Blacksburg-based university’s
Institute for Critical Technology and Applied Sciences will determine which helmets currently on the market are safer than others. Helmet manufacturers currently have to clear a pass or fail-type test by the Consumer Product Safety Commission to sell helmets in stores, but the Tech team will use machines and sensors to determine which helmets perform best. The plan is to then give the best products the designation of “Virginia Tech 5 Star Helmet,” which will be labeled with hang tags, hopefully by early 2017. The researchers will also inform makers of helmets found to be inadequate about where designs are flawed.
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TAKE A HIKE! Warm Springs Mountain Preserve in the County of Bath offers stunning vistas across the Allegheny Highlands and trail connections to the George Washington National Forest and Douthat State Park.
www.nature.org/warmspringsmountain
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FLASHPOINT
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THE WAR ON PUBLIC LANDS
ARMED MILITANTS AREN'T THE ONLY ONES TRYING TO TRANSFER PUBLIC LANDS INTO PRIVATE OWNERSHIP. COULD NATIONAL FORESTS AND PARKS BE SOLD? by SCOTT WILLOUGHBY
D
an Ashe is at war. As Director of the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, he has been on the frontlines for control of America’s public lands. That battle reached a radical new tipping point earlier this year when a mob of armed militants seized the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge in rural Oregon that falls under Ashe’s jurisdiction. Even as an inherent optimist, Ashe had difficulty suppressing his outrage over the occupation. “I was angry. I was angry because Ammon Bundy and his cohorts were walking around the community, going to the Safeway and buying supplies and going to church on Sunday, and I wanted them in jail,” Ashe said in July. “But I tip my hat to the FBI. Their whole strategy was to ignore them. They said, ‘They’re way out there at the refuge, and we know that means a lot to you, but they’re isolated and they can’t really do any damage. We’re just going to ignore them and all the press is going to go away and they’re going to get frustrated.’ And they were right. “It was tragic that LaVoy Finicum was killed, but when you think about the loss of life that could have occurred, it could have ended a lot worse.” On the grand scale, of course, nothing has ended. And Ashe recognizes that all too well. Many Republican lawmakers have joined the armed militants in calling for the 10
transfer of public lands out of federal ownership. Beyond the cascade of death threats to Oregon State Troopers, FBI, and federal officials in retaliation to Finicum’s death (he was shot by State Police when he ran a road block), beyond the blow to employee morale that left half the Malheur NWF workforce desiring to leave, and beyond even William Keebler’s thwarted attempt to blow up a Bureau of Land Management facility near Finicum’s grazing allotment in northwest Arizona, this most explosive manifestation of the public lands takeover effort to date is just another in a series of historic attempts to wrestle away the wild, open spaces initially set aside for the benefit and use of all Americans. “This is an ideology and they are
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waging a campaign. They know what they’re doing,” Ashe said. “It’s closely related to this effort to divest millions of acres from the federal estate. And it’s not about giving it to the states so the states can be better managers of a recreational resource. It’s about converting that land and that resource to capital, to profit. So the [outdoors and conservation] community needs to recognize that. We have to get smarter. We have to have a better strategy than they have. Because right now, they’re winning. They’re doing what the conservation community used to do well—they’re putting together a long ground game, and they are changing the minds of voters on this issue. We have to get back to those basics. We have to be better at it than they are.” It does remain rare to see the fight
PUBLIC LANDS COULD BE PRIVATIZED AND SOLD TO COMMERCIAL INTERESTS IF SOME POLITICIANS SUCCEED IN PASSING LAND TRANSFER BILLS.
over America’s public lands played out so vividly on the ground. The political arena has historically served as the battleground for well-funded special interest groups orchestrating attempts to usurp millions of acres of primarily Western lands managed by the U.S. Forest Service, Bureau of Land Management, National Park Service, and U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. Those politics have become increasingly evident as the push recently has made its way eastward, with nine state legislatures east of the Mississippi adopting language crafted by the shadowy American Legislative Exchange Council to pass, or attempt
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The 22nd Annual
Artisans Studio Tour November 12 & 13, 2016 • 10 am – 5 pm
Forty-two artisans will showcase their work in 23 studios in Charlottesville and surrounding counties with local refreshments in all studios.
Experience fine craft • Free, self-guided tour Enjoy Central Virginia in the fall
Visit www.artisanstudiotour.com for information and maps.
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FLASHPOINT
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to pass, resolutions expressing support for the transfer of public lands out of federal ownership. On a national scale, groups like the American Lands Council, run by Utah state Rep. Ken Ivory and Montana state Sen. Jennifer Fielder, and the congressional Federal Land Action Group created by U.S. House Natural Resources Committee Chairman Rob Bishop and fellow Utah Rep. Chris Stewart, have been chipping away at more than a century of responsible American stewardship with a combination of legislation attempts and erosion of public support by confusing the issue for voters. Echoing the voices of militants in Oregon, Bishop says his group is working to “return these lands back to the rightful owners”—by taking them away from the American people. In July, the Republican National Committee upped the ante by approving a Party Platform that endorses the disposal of federal public lands, saying, “Congress shall immediately pass universal legislation providing for a timely and orderly mechanism requiring the federal government to convey certain federally controlled public lands to states. We call upon all national and state leaders and representatives to exert their utmost power and influence to urge the transfer of those lands.” If federal lands are transferred to states, they can more readily be sold or used by private and commercial interests. In addition to 10 states in the intermountain West and Alaska, anti-public land state legislators in Arkansas, Georgia, Missouri, New Hampshire, Ohio, South Carolina, Tennessee and Virginia have jumped on board by crafting resolutions supporting the idea that our public lands should be turned over to the states. The potential transfer of some of the East’s most popular national public lands—the Blue Ridge Parkway, Great Smoky Mountain 12
National Park, the Appalachian National Scenic Trail—along with vulnerable U.S. wildlife refuges and treasured national forests is growing incrementally closer to reality. Nothing is outside the realm of this movement. Bills still lingering in the U.S. House of Representatives introduced by Republican congressmen from Idaho and Alaska attempt to carve off up to 4 million acres of national forest per state, granting “advisory councils” comprised of county officials and extraction industries control over how our now public lands are managed. Just last summer, Bishop and fellow Utah Rep. Jason Chaffetz also attempted to slip amendments into bills that would have defunded law enforcement programs of the U.S. Forest Service (and BLM) and disposed of the popular Vieques National Wildlife Refuge in Puerto Rico. The amendments were ultimately removed. The reality of the Republican platform, combined with the barrage of Republican-sponsored bills or amendments attempting to undercut protections for public lands in recent years, make it difficult not to frame this as a partisan issue. It isn’t, at least not uniformly. Despite the
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AMMON BUNDY LED THE CONTROVERSIAL ARMED TAKEOVER OF AN OREGON WILDLIFE REFUGE.
exclusive support of Republican lawmakers, voters from the party of Teddy Roosevelt have traditionally seen eye-to-eye with Democrats in their opposition to public land transfers. Public opinion nationwide has shown overwhelming support for conservation of national parks and public lands through the years, along with high opinions of federal land management agencies. Without a sustained counterattack, however, folks like Ashe worry that the physical representation of 240 years of American democracy could disappear in a blink. And Republican land managers like Jim Caswell, Director of the BLM for 8 years under George W. Bush and a former National Forest supervisor in Idaho, agree. “I said, ‘It will never happen,’ for a long time, but now I’m not so sure,” Caswell said of the takeover attempts. “We’ve lost our public support. We’ve lost our constituency. People do not go to battle for us anymore.” More likely, that constituency has merely been misplaced as much of the voting public fails to recognize just
what’s at stake. The 640 million acres of federally administered lands owned by the people, for the people, are managed for a variety of uses, ranging from livestock grazing and resource extraction to outdoor recreational opportunities like camping, hiking, biking, hunting, fishing, boating, skiing—even gatherings like the Burning Man festival. According to the Outdoor Industry Association, America’s public lands serve as the foundation of a $646 billion annual outdoor recreation economy, with 6.1 million Americans relying on the outdoor industry for employment. More than $80 million in annual tax revenue is spread among communities across the country, including about $1 million in northern Nevada during the weeklong Burning Man. The event’s economic ripple measured between $55-60 million in 2015. But rather than sustain the longterm economic benefits of federal lands, many state governments would rather sell national forests and parks through timber sales, mining, and outright transfer of public land to private and commerical interests. Idaho, for example, has sold off more than 1.7 million acres (41 percent) of the 4.2 million given to it by Congress at statehood. That’s an area roughly equal to the entire George Washington-Jefferson National Forest system liquidated to big corporations and other wealthy private interests. Economic analysis by multiple universities shows that the financial burden placed on states attempting to manage millions more acres of land transferred from federal agencies is likely to result in significant deficits, demanding more selloffs. Rest assured it won’t be a group of disgruntled cowboys buying up that property—or even Wilderness-restricted mountain bikers, for that matter. But like the rest of America, they’ve all got skin in the game. “If we lose our public lands heritage, we’ve lost a lot for a long, long time,” Caswell said. “We have to keep them public. They are worth fighting for.”
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THE DIRT
10 . 16
THE OUTDOOR CANDIDATES
WHO FIGHTS FOR YOUR BLUE RIDGE BACKYARD? THESE 10 POLITICIANS ARE PROTECTING THE PLACES WHERE WE PLAY. by JEFF KINNEY
T
his political season, it seems as if someone says or does something outrageous pretty much every day, often before breakfast. Amid all the noise and rancor and (according to polls) the general unlikability of both of the main candidates for president, apathy is understandable. But for those of us who care about conservation issues, it would also be a mistake. Not only do Hillary Clinton and Donald Trump differ substantially on this score, there are a host of down-ballot races that matter as well. Fortunately, lots of candidates stand out as environmental champions. We’ve put together a guide to a few who have demonstrated through both their votes and their professional lives a deep personal and professional commitment to protecting the outdoor places we love.
U.S. SENATE CHRIS VAN HOLLEN (D-MD)
Has represented Maryland’s 8th district in the U.S. House of Representatives since 2003. Environmental concerns include stopping drilling the Chesapeake Bay and fighting climate change. OUTDOOR HIGHLIGHTS: Authored the law that banned drilling in parts of the Chesapeake Bay watershed, cosponsored the Chesapeake Clean Water and Ecosystem Restoration Act, introduced the Healthy Climate and Family Security Act, and helped lead support in Congress for the Clean Power Plan and the Green BACKGROUND:
Climate Fund.
Has voted to delay flood insurance reform, which would help prevent destruction of floodplains. STATEMENT: “Marylanders can count on Chris Van Hollen to be a champion for the environment. It’s something he believes in deeply, and he’ll continue to be a tireless advocate for sound, effective, and science-based solutions as Maryland’s next U.S. Senator.” VOTING CONCERNS:
DEBORAH ROSS (D-NC) BACKGROUND: A
former member of the North Carolina General Assembly and N.C. House of Representatives. Environmental concerns include supporting clean energy, opposing fracking, addressing climate change, and protecting N.C.’s land, air, and water. OUTDOOR HIGHLIGHTS: Opposed state legislation to roll back years of energy conservation work and supported legislation preventing manufacturers from deceiving customers about the biodegradability of their products.
As an attorney, Ross worked with renewable energy companies to get certified by the Utilities Commission, and advocated for light rail and commuter rail. VOTING CONCERNS: Voted to establish a committee tasked with lifting “burdensome” regulations, some of which arguably protected the environment. STATEMENT: “Our mountains and coasts are not just national treasures, they are a part of North Carolina’s vital tourism industry. To protect these national treasures and bolster our tourism economy, we need to slow the harmful effects of climate change. The best ways to do this are to invest in renewable energy and clean technology.”
KATHLEEN MCGINTY (D-PA) BACKGROUND: Former
Chair of the White House Council on Environmental Quality and Secretary of Pennsylvania’s Department of Environmental Protection. Environmental concerns include
TOP LEFT TO BOTTOM RIGHT: CHRIS VAN HOLLEN, DEBORAH ROSS, KATHLEEN MCGINTY, FREDERICA WILSON,ANTHONY BROWN, ALMA ADAMS, DONALD MCEACHIN, STEVE SANTARSIERO, SUSAN FISHER, AND TERRY VAN DUYN
investing in clean energy and fighting climate change. OUTDOOR HIGHLIGHTS: Worked with then-Senator Al Gore to reauthorize the Clean Air Act, helped make Pennsylvania a leader in solar and wind energy, helped stop new drilling in state parks and forests, and supported important new efforts to protect Pennsylvanians from methane leaks. VOTING CONCERNS: Unclear—has never served as a legislator. STATEMENT: “Climate change presents a serious global threat to our health, economic well-being and national security. In the Senate, I will lead the way to a healthier and safer environment by working to pass commonsense climate protections with investments in energy efficiency and clean energy.”
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U.S. HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES FREDERICA WILSON (D-FL) BACKGROUND: Member
of the House since 2011. Environmental priorities include restoring the Everglades, opposing offshore drilling, slowing climate change, and enforcing the Endangered Species Act. OUTDOOR HIGHLIGHTS: Voted to support the Clean Power Plan and clean energy intiatives. VOTING CONCERNS: Has voted for bills that undermine flood insurance reform and against bills that would reduce funding for nuclear energy and fossil fuel research. STATEMENT: “I pledge to promote efforts to address both natural and man-made changes occurring in the climate and initiatives like solar and wind power that will protect the environment and create jobs.”
TWO STATES.
ONE GRAND ADVENTURE.
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ANTHONY BROWN (D-MD)
Served as Lieutenant Governor of Maryland from 2007 to 2015, and previously served two fouryear terms in the Maryland House of Delegates. Environmental priorities include curbing the effects of climate change, protecting Maryland’s natural resources, and ensuring the quality of our air, water, and land for future generations. OUTDOOR HIGHLIGHTS: Helped pass the Maryland Offshore Wind Energy Act of 2013, supported Maryland’s participation in the Regional Greenhouse Gas Initiative, assisted efforts to source more of the state’s energy from solar facilities, and supported upgrading wastewater treatment plants to help protect the Chesapeake Bay. VOTING CONCERNS: Has not served as a legislator at the federal level. STATEMENT: “We need leaders who will focus on accountability and expand the environmental coalition, leaders who understand that environmental BACKGROUND:
preservation and job creation are not mutually exclusive. We need leaders who believe that investments in a healthy and sustainable environment is a moral imperative.”
ALMA ADAMS (D-NC)
BACKGROUND: Appointed to the North Carolina House of Representatives in 1994 and won a special election for North Carolina’s 12th Congressional District in 2014. Environmental priorities include strong drinking water standards, protecting endangered species, protecting public lands, reducing greenhouse gas emissions, and supporting clean energy. OUTDOOR HIGHLIGHTS: Helped push for federal policies to combat climate change, voted against attacks on the Clean Power Plan, and fought for N.C. legislation that would have funded loans for energy efficiency and renewable energy projects. VOTING CONCERNS: Voted for a bill that would have prohibited states from being able to require labeling of genetically modified organisms in food as well as rolled back other state laws to promote accurate food labeling. STATEMENT: “Environmental issues tend to have the greatest impact on poor and minority communities, so that's why it's important that we never stop fighting to combat climate change, curb pollution, invest in renewable energy, and promote sustainable development solutions.”
DONALD MCEACHIN (D-VA)
Served in the Virginia House of Delegates 1996–2002 and 2006–2008, and in the Virginia Senate since 2008. Environmental priorities include reducing carbon emissions, investing in green energy technologies, and addressing public health threats from pollution. OUTDOOR HIGHLIGHTS: Co-founded the bipartisan Virginia Environment and Renewable Energy Caucus, which focuses on advancing green policies in the state legislature; sought to enroll Virginia in the Regional Greenhouse BACKGROUND:
Gas Initiative and to create a mandatory statewide renewable energy standard. VOTING CONCERNS: Minimal. The Virginia League of Conservation Voters (LCV) has given him a score of 100 percent in recent years. STATEMENT: “The next generation deserves to inherit a greener, more sustainable world. That work begins with strict limits on carbon emissions, which will radically re-shape our environment if left unchecked. We should also work to protect fragile ecosystems, preserve open spaces, and responsibly manage natural resources.”
STEVE SANTARSIERO (D-PA)
Has served in the Pennsylvania House of Representatives since 2009. Environmental priorities include promoting renewable energy, investing in green jobs, and opposing oil and gas extraction on public lands. OUTDOOR HIGHLIGHTS: Introduced legislation to put Pennsylvania on course for a 50 percent reduction in global warming pollution by 2030. This bill would put the state among those helping to deliver on the global climate goals agreed to in the Paris climate agreement reached last December. VOTING CONCERNS: Minimal. The Pennsylvania LCV gave him a score of 100 percent on its 2013-2014 scorecard. STATEMENT: “I’m proud to stand… in the fight to protect our air and water and battle catastrophic climate change. In Congress, I’ll continue the work I’ve started in the State House and push to grow a new renewable energy economy in Pennsylvania—to protect our planet and put people back to work.” BACKGROUND:
NORTH CAROLINA GENERAL ASSEMBLY SUSAN FISHER (D)
Has been a member of the North Carolina House
BACKGROUND:
of Representatives since 2004. Environmental priorities include clean energy, farmland preservation, and curtailing mountaintop removal coal mining. OUTDOOR HIGHLIGHTS: Voted to continue growing North Carolina’s renewable energy sector and voted against the “Polluter Protection Act,” which eliminated air quality monitors and allows companies to “self-report” environmental damage. Sponsored the Appalachian Mountains Preservation Act, which would prohibit electric public utilities that operate coal-fired generating units in North Carolina from purchasing or using coal extracted with mountaintop removal mining. VOTING CONCERNS: None. STATEMENT: “I support strong environmental legislation for the sake of public health, the health of North Carolina ecosystems, and our children’s future. I will continue to support legislation that promotes clean air, water, and soil. We live in one of the most beautiful places on earth, and we need to work together to make sure it remains beautiful for generations to come.”
TERRY VAN DUYN (D)
BACKGROUND: Was appointed to the North Carolina Senate in 2014 to fill the vacancy caused by the death of Sen. Martin L. Nesbitt, and won election to a full term in November 2014. Environmental priorities include clean water and renewable energy. OUTDOOR HIGHLIGHTS: Has introduced several bills promoting renewable energy and opposed the recent bill allowing fracking in North Carolina. VOTING CONCERNS: None; she has a perfect lifetime score from the North Carolina LCV. STATEMENT: “Water is one of our most precious resources and protecting it is one of the most urgent environmental issues we face. One of the first votes I cast was to vote against the recent fracking law. I voted against this law because it serves as a huge boon to energy corporations at the expense of safe drinking water for our families.”
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OPOSSUM CREEK FALLS SOUTH CAROLINA 4.6 miles Moderate TYPE: Out-and-back DISTANCE:
COLORS WITHOUT CROWDS 10 Foliage Favorites
DIFFICULTY:
What this often-disregarded day hike lacks in mileage, it makes up for two-fold in its splendor. Hikers will have a relatively easy start from the trailhead, which leads downhill to the banks of the Chattooga Wild and Scenic River corridor. You could pause here—short of whitewater, the Chattooga is renowned for its diverse flora and fauna as well as fishing holes—but it gets better. Head left and start climbing beneath the golden hardwood canopy. In two miles, you’ll reach the 50-foot falls, which cascade over a series of drops. The flow varies throughout the year, but it’s always sure to be brisk. Dip your toes, splash your face, and revel in its glory. If you hang out long enough, you’re likely to spot a black bear or wild turkey.
by JESS DADDIO
SOLITUDE RATING: 4/5
“This hike is often overlooked, as it is not connected to other trails in the greater Chattooga River trail systems.” —Johnny Molloy, Guidebook Author
A
utumn can be a great time to get outdoors, but the change in season brings more than those beloved golden-red vistas. If you’re sick of the leaf peepin’ crowds, we’ve consulted some regional hiking experts for 10 hikes less traveled, rated on a solitude scale of 0 to 5 (0 = crowded; 5 = not a soul in sight), so you can still hit the trail and soak in the colors without competing with the masses.
photo by SAMANTHA BROOKE MIGNONE
GAHUTI TRAIL GEORGIA
8.2 miles Moderate TYPE: Loop DISTANCE:
DIFFICULTY:
The word ‘Gahuti’ is Cherokee for ‘mother mountain,’ and hardly 10 minutes from the parking lot in Fort Mountain State Park, you’ll see the name was justly given. The Gahuti rolls steadily along the crest of Fort Mountain, taking hikers through a variety of terrain from high and dry ridgelines dotted with glowing
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oak trees to the down low mossy creekbeds shaded in rhododendron. Trails up high lead to rocky outcroppings featuring postcardworthy views of Georgia’s southern Appalachian mountains. Though it adds two additional miles to the hike, we strongly suggest hopping onto the red-blazed Overlook and Tower Trail, a quick out-and-back side trail that leads to even more astounding views. SOLITUDE RATING: 3/5
“There’s a lot of national forest land around [the Gahuti], and people don’t think about having a wilderness experience in a state park but you can.” —Johnny Molloy, Guidebook Author
FLORENCE NATURE PRESERVE NORTH CAROLINA 5.3 miles Moderate TYPE: Loop DISTANCE:
DIFFICULTY:
This 600-acre parcel of protected land on the southern slope of Little Pisgah
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Mountain is a place of regional history, natural beauty, and rugged trails. In decades past, the land saw a handful of subsistence farmers and served as an important stopping point for travelers headed west to Asheville along the Old Buncombe Turnpike. Now, hikers can fully immerse themselves in the magic of this place by way of a trail network that will soon be complete. Go back in time as you saunter beneath the limbs of old-growth forest and past log cabin ruins. No visit here is complete without making the trek to Rattlesnake Knob for its picturesque scenery. SOLITUDE RATING: 4/5
“It’s just forgotten, overshadowed by many other destinations in the Asheville/Hendersonville area. Most people go west or toward the main crest of the Appalachians but here you have to go a little east. I’d never heard of it myself till I started writing a guidebook for the Asheville area.” —Johnny Molloy, Guidebook Author
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BARTRAM TRAIL NORTH CAROLINA 5.4 miles Moderate TYPE: Out-and-back DISTANCE:
DIFFICULTY:
Peak baggers will find this hike relatively tame for a day trip, though for the stunning sights atop Jones Knob and Whiterock Mountain, the solitude you can expect here will seem downright sacrilege. Popular during the spring and summertime for its wildflowers, most people who do end up on the Bartram only make the trek to Wayah Bald, and rightfully so. The 360-degree marvels up here are truly humbling—you can see nearly all of Macon County’s nineteen 5,000-foot peaks from here, which is what makes it such a popular tourist spot. But if it’s seclusion you’re after, crank up Jones Knob and you’ll be sure to never see a soul. At 4,622 feet (Jones Knob) and 4,480 feet (Whiterock), these two peaks are among the top three highest summits on section two
of the Bartram Trail. Bring a picnic for the trip—the exposed granite rock cliffs here, especially on Whiterock, rival rock you’d see over in Cashiers or Highlands, N.C., and make a great place to post up and revel in the grandeur of nature. SOLITUDE RATING: 4.5/5
“If you do see people, they’re going to be locals. Most people that are even going to get on the Bartram have to accept a moderate to strenuous hike. There’s not easy hiking anywhere.” —Rob Gasbarro, Co-Owner Outdoor 76, Franklin, N.C.
CHUNKY GAL TRAIL NORTH CAROLINA 8 miles Strenuous TYPE: Out-and-back DISTANCE:
DIFFICULTY:
Situated near the border of North Carolina and Georgia in the southern Nantahalas, the 22-mile Chunky Gal Trail is remote and often overgrown, despite its consistent trail markings
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(look for the blue blaze). Not far from Franklin, N.C., this trail is often overshadowed by its famed white blaze sister, the Appalachian Trail, which intersects with Chunky Gal just past Muskrat Creek Shelter. Park at Bob Allison Campground and set off on the steady 3.5-mile climb to the summit of Tusquitee Bald. At 5,240 feet, this panoramic bald will be sure to keep the inexperienced crowds at bay. You can also loop up the Chunky Gal with the Appalachian Trail for a little sprinkling of solitude with plenty of that trail community we all hold near and dear. Keep your eyes peeled for old-growth hemlocks in this area. They won’t be changing color, obviously, but their impressive stature is sure to drop your jaw. SOLITUDE RATING: 4/5
“The Appalachian Trail is so great and so iconic and in a lot of ways it distracts from other trails that are equally beautiful or very similar in terrain and I think the Chunky Gal
is one of those trails. Because it’s not the A.T. it’s less traveled and more remote.” —Jennifer Pharr Davis, Owner, Blue
Ridge Hiking Company, Asheville, N.C.
BIG FROG WILDERNESS TENNESSEE
11 miles Strenuous TYPE: Out-and-back DISTANCE:
DIFFICULTY:
The trails in Tennessee’s Big Frog Wilderness are rough, unsigned, and little maintained, but that’s what we love about this wild area. Combined with Georgia’s neighboring Cohutta Wilderness, these two public lands form the largest unbroken wilderness in the southern Appalachians. Starting at Low Gap, you’ll climb to the top of Big Frog Mountain, where overlooks, campsites, and creek dips await. You can certainly bust out this long hike in a day, but why rush it? There is plenty of exploring to do here, and you can even loop Big Frog with the Benton MacKaye
trail for a slightly longer 13-mile hike. Peep between the tree trunks as you walk—there are plenty of rock clusters that make for a quiet oasis where you can bask in the views of the Chattahoochee National Forest. The trail will certainly give you radiant displays of fall colors, but it will also lead you through rhododendron tunnels and pine forests that speckle the otherwise golden-red canopy in patches of evergreen. SOLITUDE RATING: 4.5/5
“Big Frog’s best feature is its wilderness character. There are good views, but not great views, and that’s what actually keeps this trail lesser visited.” —Johnny Molloy, Guidebook Author
FLAT PETER/DIXON BRANCH LOOP VIRGINIA
8.7 miles Strenuous TYPE: Loop DISTANCE:
DIFFICULTY:
Though the word “flat” appears in the name of this hike, don’t let it fool you—this is a rigorous loop meant only for experienced backpackers. The circuit climbs through Virginia’s Mountain Lake Wilderness and passes through the western end of Peters Mountain Wilderness. The trails are occasionally marked, albeit faintly, and there are large portions of the loop that require basic routefinding skills. It’s no wonder that this hike ranks high on our solitude scale, but navigational difficulty aside, it’ll be easy to see why we consider this loop a must-do—golden meadows interlaced with wetlands, rocky ridges and outcroppings pockmarked by dark green rhododendron thickets and hip-high ferns. This hike has it all, especially for those willing to work hard for a little one-on-one time with Mother Nature. Make note to revisit this special place in the summer—you can find ample huckleberry bushes atop Huckleberry Ridge, which you’ll circle before passing through Peters Mountain Wilderness.
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WEST VIRGINIA SHOWING EARLY SIGNS OF FALL. photo by MATT KEARNS
SOLITUDE RATING: 5/5
“It’s badly mapped, there’s poor information, kinda an obscure trailhead, and all of that conspires to leave it to the intrepid explorers. Once you get on it, it ain’t easy to follow, but it’s really cool.” —Johnny
Molloy, Guidebook Author
LAUREL FORK WILDERNESS—NORTH WEST VIRGINIA
8.6 miles DIFFICULTY: Easy TYPE: Out-and-back DISTANCE:
For the adventurous amateur or family crew, this one’s for you. Nestled in the Greenbrier Ranger District of West Virginia’s Monongahela National Forest, the Laurel Fork Wilderness is about as quiet as it gets. Literally. Don’t expect any cell service out here. Within the wilderness area’s 11,839 acres (6,055 of which are in the northern section), one can climb anywhere from 2,900 feet to over 3,700 feet. You’ll mostly be sticking to the lower elevations on this one.
There are 9.5 miles of trails to explore in the northern wilderness, and most of these trails follow old roadbeds and railroad grades. As you amble along the Laurel Fork River Trail, admiring the towering canopy along the river’s edge, consider that at one point in time, this entire area was logged. It may shed a new, more appreciative light on this nowuntamed pocket of West Virginia. SOLITUDE RATING: 5/5
“Unless you’re a fisherman or a solitude seeker, and really there aren’t even that many fishermen, this area doesn’t have a comprehensive trail network. It’s one of those places where every step, you just enjoy it.” —Johnny Molloy, Guidebook Author
ALLEGHENY TRAIL WEST VIRGINIA
10 miles Easy TYPE: One way DISTANCE:
DIFFICULTY:
Running for 330 miles from the Pennsylvania-West Virginia border to Peters Mountain in eastern West
Virginia, the Allegheny Trail is the state’s only long-distance hiking and biking trail and is unique in its combination of private and public lands. There are still 30 miles of the trail that are incomplete, but when it’s finished, this removed trail will take visitors past three state parks, four state forests, two national wilderness areas, and three national forests. Begin this one-way, family friendly hike in Albright, W.Va., near the Cheat River Festival site. You’ll be tracing and crisscrossing the banks of the Cheat River until you reach the take out at Jenkinsburg Bridge (set shuttle or stop halfway and walk back to your car). Along the way, expect to develop a personal acquaintance with the Cheat River Basin’s abundant life—bobcats, otters, bald eagles, and the flat-spired three-toothed snail are just a few of the many species that call the Cheat home. About halfway, you’ll want to stop and take a break at High Falls. Here, the river funnels into a near river-wide wave. Watch passing kayakers surf against a backdrop of vibrant reds, oranges, and yellows.
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HOW TO AVOID THE TOURISTS
PEAK COLORS AT FORT MOUNTAIN STATE PARK AND NOT A SOUL TO BE SEEN. photo by JOHNNY MOLLOY
SOLITUDE RATING: 5/5
“The entire canyon is a remarkable, completely wild and wonderful, remote Appalachia river canyon. The road access to the lower end of the trail can be questionable for non 4x4 vehicles, though plenty of two-wheel drive vehicles make it down there.”
—Gabe DeWitt, Outdoor Lifestyle Photographer, Morgantown, W.Va.
LAUREL HIGHLANDS TRAIL PENNSYLVANIA
70 miles Strenuous TYPE: One-way, six-day overnighter DISTANCE:
DIFFICULTY:
Looming hardwoods, carpets of ferns, wild mushrooms, massive rock outcroppings, salamanders, lakes, cascades. No matter the time of the year, the Laurel Highlands Trail provides a hefty dose of natural majesty. If you only have time for a day trip, try hiking north from the trail’s southern terminus in Ohiopyle, though you more than likely won’t be alone. The views of the winding 24
Youghiogheny River in fall are like a painting, but also relatively accessible. The farther in you hike, the more isolation you’ll find. There are plenty of shelters along the trail (conveniently situated every eight to 10 miles), so you can pack light and focus on the miles. One of our favorite stopping points is at mile 11, where you’ll encounter a perfectly still lake. During peak colors, the lake practically glows from the warm shades reflected on the water’s surface. If you’re planning to hike the trail in its entirety, Wilderness Voyageurs in Ohiopyle offers shuttles for hikers. SOLITUDE RATING: 4/5
“The southern end of the LHHT is the more difficult section, with a couple of climbs and descents into the Yough Gorge. This also makes for some of the best scenery, peeking into the gorge and crossing beautiful little creeks. Late fall hikers should keep an eye on bear hunting season in Pennsylvania and wear blaze orange.” —Eric Martin, Owner, Wilderness Voyageurs
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When you rack up 13,000+ miles of hiking on some of the most remote trails in the world, learning to enjoy your own company is par for the course. Former Appalachian Trail record holder Jennifer Pharr Davis is, among many other things, a wife, a business owner, a hiking guide, and a soon-to-be mother of two. Now, more than ever, when Pharr Davis hits the trail, solitude is what she seeks. Check out some of her tips for escaping the leaf peeping masses, and staying safe.
AVOID PEAK SEASON. Or, more precisely, avoid “peak season” as most tourists define it—October. “October is our busiest month, but then the first weekend of November, everything drops off. A lot of times, the first weekend of November is gorgeous! The last week of September is also a great time to hike, especially if you can get up into the Mid-Atlantic where the leaves may have already changed.” Similarly, Pharr Davis suggests going farther south (say, the Pinhoti Trail in Georgia) later in the season, which will have just as much color without the people. GO DURING THE WEEKDAYS. We call these “personal health” days. BRAVE THE ELEMENTS. The harsher the weather, the more of a reason for out-of-towners to stay put in their hotel rooms. “You can be on a super popular trail, like the A.T., and if there’s a 70 percent chance of rain, there’s no one out there and it’s amazing to see the trail in all types of weather. Some of my most memorable moments on the trail have been
during a rain or snowstorm when the clouds break. The great part about fall hiking is you don’t even need the views. If it’s boxed in or there’s cloud cover you still get to see all of the colors of the forest and you almost appreciate the details more. There’s a real advantage to going when there’s not perfect sunny weather.” HIKE TILL DARK. If you want to ensure that your campsite is secluded, don’t set up your tent early, Pharr Davis says. And try targeting national forests and public spaces where camping isn’t strictly regulated, forcing you to be tent flap to tent flap with your fellow outdoorsmen and women. “I like to have a long break in the afternoon or stop to cook dinner and then hike until 7 or 7:30. If you wait until then, you can feel pretty confident that if you set up your tent, you’re going to be the only person there through the night.” PACK YOUR PATIENCE. Do your research, bring maps, ask locals for beta, but also, remember to be flexible. “If you’re going out and looking for solitude, and going to a trail less traveled to find it, don’t be frustrated when it’s overgrown or not as well-marked as a greenway or the A.T., because that’s part of the compromise of solitude.” BE RESPONSIBLE . Being alone means being aware. “Have the right gear and navigational tools. If you’re looking for solitude and something happens, there’s a good chance no one else is going down the trail in the next few hours or the next few days. Leaving an itinerary and general description of where you’re hiking with someone at home is important.” KNOW WHEN THE NEXT FOOTBALL GAME WILL AIR. This is the South. Football is big stuff around here. Use it to your advantage. “When there’s a big SEC game, like Alabama vs. Georgia, that’s when you go hike.”
UNTAPPED
by JESS DADDIO
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THE RESOURCERICH MOUNTAINS OF EASTERN KENTUCKY AND SOUTHWESTERN VIRGINIA HAVE A LONG HISTORY OF EXTRACTION, BUT WITH THE COAL INDUSTRY ON THE DECLINE, BREAKS INTERSTATE PARK IS HOPEFUL THE AREA’S RECREATION TOURISM SCENE WILL CLIMB TO THE TOP. LITERALLY.
irginia State Route 80 is paved and winding. From the old timber town of Haysi, Va., the road makes a wide birth around the Russell Fork River, rolling along the Cumberland Mountains until it reaches the Virginia-Kentucky border where it makes a hard right to parallel the river into Elkhorn City, Ky. A scattering of doublewides and sagging houses face the road, tucked into their respective hollers and fenced in by well-used trucks. Washed-out dirt roads diverge from the pavement and disappear into the forest, leading to old logging sites and mountaintop removal mines. Locals congregate in the gravel parking lot of the Laurel Shop, a dusty little convenience store where you can get a case of Old Milwaukee, tackle, and a loaf of bread. There’s always a distant rumbling—in some bends of the road, it’s the river you hear, in others, the methodical churning of the Kingsport Subdivision rail line. This is coal country. It’s also home to one of the most overlooked recreation destinations in the Southeast—Breaks Interstate Park, one of only two interstate parks in the country. Established in 1954, commissioners from both Kentucky and Virginia oversee management of the park, which, combined with its funding, is what separates this interstate park from typical state park designations. A major tributary of the Big Sandy, the Russell Fork forms the Breaks’ westernmost border with more than 4,600 acres of rugged terrain sprawling northeasterly in elevations THANKS TO THE LONG FIELD HOURS AND RESEARCH OF AREA CLIMBER KYLIE SCHMIDT, THE BREAKS IS NOW OPEN FOR CLIMBING. photo by GERRY SEAVO JAMES
ranging from 920 feet at the river’s edge to 1,978 feet at the Clinchfield Overlook. Kayakers know and love this diamond-in-the-rough. Where the upper stretches of the Russell Fork and the Pound River are relatively mild in nature (class II-III+), it’s the steep class V rapids of the Russell Fork Gorge that have garnered respect and admiration from the international paddling community since the early ‘90s. Here, the river plunges up to 190 feet per mile, snaking through boulder gardens and enshrining paddlers in a 1,650-foot vertical canyon. The Lord of the Fork, an annual downriver race through the heart of the gorge, takes place on the last Saturday of the release season. The likes of professional paddlers such as Pat Keller, Adriene Levknecht, Dane Jackson, and Chris Gragtmans regularly compete in the Lord of the Fork, and spectators and racers alike choke the campgrounds every October. But this year, paddlers may have a little less elbow room at the Breaks, thanks to a recent sanction that allows a new means of recreating within park limits—rock climbing. “[The park] has the potential to have at least 1,000 routes,” says Kylie Schmidt, 26, of Pikeville, Ky. “It’s like the new New.” Schmidt, who grew up hiking in the Breaks with her family, played an instrumental role in opening the dialogue between climbers and the park back in 2014. A longtime area climber, Schmidt and her University of Kentucky peers mostly frequented the Red River Gorge, an internationally renowned climbing destination just over an hour’s drive from campus. One weekend in 2012, Schmidt convinced her friends to make the trip to her hometown stomping grounds. The park amazed the crew, greeting them with quiet crags, untouched routes, stunning vistas…and a visit from Breaks Superintendent Austin Bradley. “That was my first interaction with him,” Schmidt admits, almost sheepishly.
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But Bradley didn’t write them up. There was no fine for breaking the rules and hardly a slap on the wrist. That’s because Bradley knew Schmidt and her posse of college dirtbags weren’t the first, and certainly wouldn’t be the last, climbers in the park. “The Civil Air Patrol and some of the local college programs and rescueand-response agencies were allowed to climb and rappel and do different things in the past,” says Bradley, “but it also wasn’t well posted that climbing wasn’t allowed, so some people just came and climbed just not knowing that, technically, it wasn’t a sanctioned activity.” “In hindsight, I should have gotten serious about pushing for getting climbing established legitimately, but I was so new to climbing, I didn’t understand how great of a resource the Breaks was,” says Schmidt. Two years after Schmidt’s tame run-in with the law, an article in the University of Kentucky campus newspaper announced that the Elkhorn City Heritage Council was seeking opportunities to expand outdoor tourism in the hopes of revitalizing the area’s dwindling economy. For Schmidt, it was the moment the lightbulb finally began to flicker. Could climbing help save coal country? “We’ve seen that happen in the Red River Gorge in Kentucky, we’ve seen that in the Obed in Tennessee, and the New River Gorge in West Virginia, and I think we’ll see it at the Breaks as well in coming years,” says Zachary Lesch-Huie, Southeast Regional Director for the Access Fund. “The Breaks is a great example of how opening climbing access isn’t just about a win for climbers—it’s a benefit to the communities as well.” After learning the park was in the midst of a 30-year master planning process, Schmidt became determined to make climbing a part of the park’s future. She enlisted the help of Lesch-Huie and Brad Mathisen with the Southwest Virginia Climbers Coalition. The team didn’t need to look far for proof of climbing’s positive impact.
Just this year, Eastern Kentucky University released a study showing that climbers alone spend an estimated $3.6 million per year in the regional economy surrounding the Red River Gorge, $2.7 million of which goes directly to local small businesses and supports 39 full-time jobs in an area with high poverty rates. “The coalfield counties of southwest Virginia and eastern Kentucky are in a kinda enormous economic transition right now,” says Bradley. “That was one of my goals in pursuing opening climbing in this area. I think we have a really significant resource and I think people will come to utilize it and that really fits into the broader scheme of what’s going on in this area in trying to, instead of extracting our resources, utilize what we have left to attract tourism.” “I could see Elkhorn City becoming like a mini Asheville,” says Schmidt. “It has phenomenal opportunities for whitewater rafting, fly fishing, mountain biking, and climbing.” With five miles of quality sandstone clifflines that rival the rock found in the New River Gorge and Obed Wild and Scenic River, the park is long overdue in recognizing the opportunities. What’s more, the infrastructure and amenities are, largely, already in place. The roads are all paved in the Breaks. There’s a visitor’s center, a lodge, a restaurant, and a campground. The park has plenty of trail markings, parking lots, and maps. The 25-mile multiuse trail system in the Breaks practically takes climbers to the base of the climbing areas with minimal bushwhacking involved. Since the sanction went public on May 1, 2016, the Breaks’ five open climbing areas already have 21 sport routes and 37 traditional routes established. Despite concerns about impacts to the park’s resident peregrine falcon population, which has successfully recovered since the DDT scare of the ‘70s, Bradley is confident that climbers will be respectful of the sensitive natural and historical aspects
of the park. He is hopeful that more areas at the Breaks, like the iconic Towers formation, will be open to climbing in the coming years. Climbing at the Breaks is on a permit basis only, though the permit is free and easy to acquire at the visitor’s center. Rules and regulations on bolting and route development in the park are available at mountainproject.com.
SWEAT. SWEAR. SUFFER. SEND.
Tired of your busy backyard crag? Craving a quiet wall sans gym rats? Look no further. We’ve consulted a handful of the region’s top rock aficionados to bring you a list of off-the-beaten-path climbing destinations. Sure, you might end up off-route, totally lost, and benighted. But that’s when the adventure really begins.
SCHMIDT, CENTER, SURROUNDED BY HER TEAM OF REPRESENTATIVES FROM THE ACCESS FUND, SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA CLIMBERS COALITION, AND EXPLORE KENTUCKY. photo by GERRY SEAVO JAMES
GUEST RIVER GORGE VIRGINIA
Situated in the westernmost corner of southern Virginia, the Guest River Gorge is like an undeveloped New River Gorge. Sandstone clifflines jut upwards of 100 feet tall and are easily accessible by way of the Guest River Trail (and a few minutes of bushwhacking). If rope climbing's not your thing, the river bank is littered with quality boulders that have more potential than there are climbers to project them. Norton, Va. Easy hiking on a reclaimed railroad bed STYLE: Sport, bouldering, some trad NEAREST CITY: APPROACH:
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Power and the Glory, 5.10b BETA: mountainproject.com SEASON: Spring, fall, winter WORD FROM THE WISE: “Access here is allowed, but tenuous. Land management here is okay with climbing but not with continued development of new climbs.” RECOMMENDED ROUTE:
—per Access Fund
late winter, early spring Rag is a remote and fairly serious climbing area with a long, rugged approach. Bring a headlamp and twice the water you think you’ll need!” WORD FROM THE WISE: “Old
—Eric Horst, Guidebook Author
BOZOO
WEST VIRGINIA
OLD RAG MOUNTAIN VIRGINIA
A classic among hikers, Virginia's Old Rag Mountain also offers stellar splitter, corner, and face climbing for those willing to go the extra mile. It's like a mini Yosemite, packed into a single pitch. Sperryville, Va. car-to-summit distance is 2.8 miles with a vertical gain of about 1,760 feet. Typical hiking time to the summit is 1 to 1.25 hours. STYLE: Trad and some sport RECOMMENDED ROUTE: Strawberry Fields, 5.9+ BETA: Rock Climbing: Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland (A Falcon Guide by Eric Horst)
SEASON: Fall,
If you're looking for a place to take beginners without the pressures of a crowded crag, this is the spot. Top rope setup is easy to come by at Bozoo and with endless moderate bouldering, riverside camping, and south facing cliff bands, this overlooked climbing area is enjoyable practically any time of the year.
NEAREST CITY:
APPROACH: The
FEATURING : JACK DANIELS DISTILLERY GEORGE DICKEL DISTILLERY
Bozoo, Va. Short five-minute hike uphill to the first climbing zone, Iceberg Area STYLE: Trad, mixed, and some sport RECOMMENDED ROUTE: Homer, 5.11b BETA: Rock Climbing: Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland (A Falcon Guide by Eric Horst) SEASON: Year-round climbing is possible, although spring and fall are best. NEAREST CITY: APPROACH:
WORD FROM THE WISE: “The crags are located on the edge of Bluestone Lake State Park, and portions of the rock may lie on private property. At present there are no restrictions.”
—Eric Horst, Guidebook Author
LAUREL KNOB
NORTH CAROLINA This big, bad, 1,200-foot granite dome is arguably the tallest exposed cliff face in the East. Cashiers, N.C. Start early. It’s about a twohour hike in featuring a 600-foot descent down countless switchbacks. STYLE: Trad, multi-pitch RECOMMENDED ROUTE: Have and Not Lead to Fathom Direct, 5.10+ R, eight pitches BETA: mountainproject.com SEASON: Spring, late summer, fall WORD FROM THE WISE: “This is the best slab rock I’ve climbed anywhere in the world, from Yosemite to Chamonix. It’s slab climbing, but it climbs more like a technical face with moves well above pieces of gear with big time fall potential.” —Karsten Delap, Professional NEAREST CITY: APPROACH:
Rock Climbing Guide, Fox Mountain Guides
BIG SOUTH FORK NATIONAL RIVER AND RECREATION AREA TENNESSEE
Big South Fork is a 125,000-acre frontier with sandstone cliffs here reaching heights in excess of 200 feet. Many areas here also feature large tiered roofs, which means you can climb even in the midst of a Southeast maelstrom. Oneida, Tenn. Bushwhacking, river crossings, unmarked trails, you name the genre of adversity, and Big South Fork’s got it. STYLE: Mostly trad, some sport, some multi-pitch RECOMMENDED ROUTE: Vertigo, 5.10 A2 BETA: mountainproject.com SEASON: Spring, fall, winter WORD FROM THE WISE: “Many of the harder routes at developed areas have seen only a handful of ascents, often fewer than that, and as a result, loose rock can be a hazard especially on ledges. It would be a complete crapshoot to climb at BSF without a helmet. The biggest hazard to the BSF explorer is venomous snakes—the sheer number NEAREST CITY: APPROACH:
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of rattlesnakes rivals the number of unclimbed routes.”
because the hike has become really long to get to it.” —Andrew Kornylak, Adventure
—Scott Perkins, Professional Rock Climbing Guide, Alpine Leadership
Photographer and Videographer
EAST SLATE ROCK NORTH CAROLINA
This 300-foot granite face is situated in Pisgah National Forest, and as of four years ago, it was vertical terra incognito. Mills River, N.C. It’s a 40-minute hike in from the easternmost Pilot Cove/Slate Rock Loop trailhead. STYLE: Trad, ice in winter RECOMMENDED ROUTE: Slate Night Booty, 5.9 BETA: Rumbling Bald Rock Climbs (grounduppublishing.com) outlines the majority of East Slate's routes. SEASON: Spring, fall, winter (for ice) WORD FROM THE WISE: “East Slate contains some of the best face climbing and edging around, but you'll find cracks and corners as well. Several routes are an even mix of Rumbling Bald-style edges and flakes, mixed with water grooves reminiscent of Laurel Knob. It’s a diverse mini crag that’s way off the beaten track.” —Mike Reardon, Guidebook Author NEAREST CITY: APPROACH:
and Owner of Ground Up Publishing
LAUREL-SNOW STATE NATURAL AREA TENNESSEE
The 2,000-acre Laurel-Snow has waterfalls, shaded coves, cool mountain springs, and stunning views. It's popular for its bouldering as well as its killer sport and trad climbing. Dayton, Tenn. Hike for an hour past the bouldering area on relatively flat ground until you reach the ridgeline. Follow signs for Laurel-Snow, which will take you uphill and past more giant boulders and through numerous switchbacks. It’s relatively well-marked and obvious. STYLE: Sport, trad RECOMMENDED ROUTE: Darwinism, 5.10d BETA: Very little – mountainproject.com SEASON: Spring, summer, fall WORD FROM THE WISE: “People don’t really go there, but it’s really beautiful and secluded with tons of waterfalls. Its sister area, which is across the valley, is called Buzzard Point. It’s received less traffic over the years because of access issues, but it’s still an open crag and it’s huge. People just don’t go there NEAREST CITY: APPROACH:
LITTLE RIVER CANYON NATIONAL PRESERVE ALABAMA
It’s big, it’s wild, and as any visitor to this 14,000-acre ribbon of protected land will quickly discover, it’s steep. Civil War deserters and outlaws often sought shelter here, finding quiet pockets within the canyon’s overhanging walls that were hard to reach. Fort Payne, Ala. access roads sit above the cliffs, which means you’ll need to scramble or rappel your way to the base of the wall before beginning your climb. STYLE: Sport RECOMMENDED ROUTE: Anything on Lizard Wall. Its slightly overhanging routes stay dry when everything else is wet. BETA: Dixie Cragger’s Atlas: Climber’s Guide to Alabama and Georgia SEASON: Any but summer WORD FROM THE WISE: “The majority of the climbs there are 5.11 or harder. Friends of mine have broken arms and legs on those approaches. It’s the kind of approach where you don’t want to bring your dog or small kid.” —Andrew Kornylak, NEAREST CITY:
APPROACH: The
Adventure photographer and videographer
TALLULAH GORGE STATE PARK GEORGIA
Quartzite, exposure, and scenery abound in this southeastern gem. With the Tallulah River running through it, and camping and hiking available in the park, a trip here can easily span a week without ever scratching the surface of all the gorge has to offer. The park issues a maximum of 20 climbing permits per day, but this limit is hardly ever maxed. NEAREST CITY: Lakemont, Ga., or Long Creek, S.C. APPROACH: Short scramble or 4th class downclimb STYLE: Trad, multi-pitch, some mixed aid Recommended Route: Punk Wave, 5.10a, three pitches BETA: mountainproject.com SEASON: Late fall, early spring WORD FROM THE WISE: Go during the week. The park closes access to climbing when there are recreational releases on the
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LET’S GET NAUTI!
e c e i 5-P s t i u s a t n sa d e d u incl
Let’s break th worl d reco e rd for b igges t santa run!
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NORFOLK, VIRGINIA | NOVEMBER 19-20, 2016
VIRGINIA BEACH, VIRGINIA | DECEMBER 17, 2016
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THE GOODS
SPORTIVA BATURA 2.0 GTX ($700) I bought these winter climbing boots last year, so I haven’t had a lot of days in them, but so far, they’re great. They are very lightweight, which is a world of difference from other winter boots. They climb warmer for me than any other winter boot, too, maybe because of the gaiter.
10 . 16
CLIMB HIGHER LEGENDARY GUIDE SWIS STOCKTON PICKS HIS FAVORITE ROCK GEAR. by GRAHAM AVERILL
BLACK DIAMOND ATC GUIDE ($29.95) I’m using this as my belay device the most right now. It’s a good lead belay device and very good for direct belay guiding. It’s not too big and rappels pretty well too. It’s a great device you can grow into.
S
wis Stockton has the perfect name for a rock climbing guide. It just sounds like someone who belongs on the rock. Fortunately, Stockton also has the credentials to back up the name. Stockton owns and serves as the head guide for Granite Arches, one of the South’s premiere rock climbing companies. Stockton has climbed and guided all over the world, from high altitude routes in the Andes to the big walls of California. Over the years, he’s become one of the most thoroughly trained wilderness first aid climbers in the country, performing countless rescues on and off the rock. After decades of sending and guiding, Stockton still has a passion for the sport. “Climbing can be meditative—how you synchronize the body and the mind,” Stockton says. “On good days, you’re just watching the rock go by and feeling your body work, and it all takes place in the wilderness. That’s my idea of perfection.” We asked Stockton about the gear that he relies on to reach that state of perfection on a daily basis.
STERLING 3/8 INCH HTP ($151.65) This is my rigging rope of choice. It’s true static rope that has a very specific use, and should be used with caution by beginners. However, it has a small diameter, handles beautifully and is abrasion resistant, which is great for building tree and “V rigs” with guide tethers. TRAUMA SHEARS Everyone should put a pair of these in their medical kit. They’re light weight and way safer than wielding a knife. I teach wilderness medicine a lot these days, and have been a rescuer many times. Trauma shears are great for cutting clothing, webbing, and holes in moleskin.
ADIDAS TERREX SOLO ($119) These are light, relatively inexpensive approach shoes with great toe coverage, good lateral stability, very sticky rubber, and loops on the back that attach to a harness. They also seem to hold up better than more expensive shoes. (Editor’s note: You can still find the Terrex Solo on the market, but also look at the updated model, Terrex Agravic GTX).
EDITOR'S CHOICE
MISTY MOUNTAIN THREADWORKS SPECTRE ($129) Misty Mountain has been building bomb-proof climbing harnesses in the High Country of North Carolina since 1985. The company is known for the Cadillac—a workhorse harness that’s admired by trad climbers the world over. The new Spectre (out this fall) takes the Cadillac’s workhorse mentality and puts it on a diet. Weighing in at just over 13 ounces, the Spectre combines the agility and slim profile of a crag harness with the support and gear-hauling capability of a big wall trad harness.
OUTDOOR RESEARCH FERROSI ($79) I totally live in these pants these days. They’re stretchy, wind and rain resistant, and they’re super comfortable. They don’t hold odor and are light and pack small. MORE GEAR ZENSAH RECOVERY COMPRESSION SHORTS ($64) The compression shorts provide support to the upper leg while allowing for unrestricted mobility in the lower leg. The result: shorts that enable you to perform better—and recover more quickly.
ECOVESSEL BOULDER ($16) These triple-insulated stainless steel water bottles stay cold for over 36 hours without sweats or leaks. Sturdy, stylish, and BPAand phthalate-free. O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M
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BEER TRAILS THESE CRAFT BREWERY ROUTES COMBINE THE BEST SUDS AND SCENERY IN THE SOUTH.
by GRAHAM AVERILL
T
he Southern Appalachians have their share of trails: bike trails, hiking trails, paddle trails—and now, thanks to the craft brewery boom, beer trails. Explore multiple breweries and find quick access to the South’s best adventure. Here are six beer trails worthy of your precious weekends.
Brew Ridge Trail VIRGINIA 35 MILES
N
elson County is the epicenter of Virginia’s first craft beer boom, thanks to the pioneering efforts of Starr Hill, Blue Mountain and Devils Backbone. Brewing has grown in the county, and now you can link up almost half a dozen breweries via a scenic mountain ramble. The hiking isn’t too bad, either.
SOUTH STREET BREWERY Kick the trip off in downtown Charlottesville and order the easy drinking Satan’s Pony, a malt-driven amber ale. southstreetbrewery.com
STARR HILL
Pay homage to Virginia’s first craft brewery in Crozet. Starr Hill has revamped some of their classic beers and introduced outstanding new IPAs. Jump on their imperial IPA, King of Hop, which is loaded with citrus. starrhill.com
BLUE MOUNTAIN BREWERY
Blue Mountain helped pioneer the new wave of hop farming in Virginia, and you can see the fruits of their labor at their Afton brewery, which houses two expansive hop fields. Full Nelson is a solid pale, but try to get your hands on Blue Reserve, which uses only home-grown Cascade hops. bluemountainbrewery.com
p Burn Calories Detour onto the Blue Ridge Parkway and climb Humpback Rocks, a fin of rock with killer views that come after 800 feet of climbing in one mile.
WILD WOLF BREWING COMPANY
Wild Wolf ’s backyard is ridiculous—a white-fenced beer garden set amongst the hardwoods—and it’s the perfect road trip distraction. Order the Blonde Hunny, an unfiltered wheat beer, and bring your appetite—Wild Wolf runs a farm to fork restaurant that gets most of their ingredients within 30 miles. wildwolfbeer.com
DEVILS BACKBONE BREWING COMPANY
Devils Backbone has grown significantly (they’re actually owned by Anheuser Busch now), but their Basecamp campus in Roseland still has adventure-hub charm. DB Brewing made a name for themselves with their Vienna Lager, and it’s still a solid option, but consider
their Gold Leaf lager for something a bit more crisp and sessionable.
dbbrewingcompany.com
The Beerwerks Trail VIRGINIA 80 MILES
T
he only problem with the Shenandoah Valley? There’s so much to take in, it can be hard to focus. You have the Shenandoah River running through the heart of the pastoral valley, which is framed by the rugged peaks of the George Washington and Jefferson National Forest, as well as Shenandoah National Park. You’ve got the A.T., the best mountain biking in Virginia, paddling, road cycling…and now beer. A dozen breweries are scattered along the valley’s new Beerwerks Trail. We’ve picked a few highlights to help you focus. beerwerkstrail.com
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BLUE LAB BREWING
Start at this former doctor’s office that’s been transformed into a tiny microbrewery, where the tap list is always rotating. Be bold and try the Green Chile Ale if it’s on tap. bluelabbrewing.com
STABLE CRAFT BREWING
You have five breweries to choose from between Waynesboro and Staunton. We say hit Seven Arrows Brewing (sevenarrowsbrewing.com) on your way to Stable Craft, just outside of Waynesboro, which operates a working hop and horse farm on the site of the brewery. Get one of their IPAs and have it poured through their Randall, which infuses the beer with a different fruit or herb each day. stablecraftbrewing.com p Burn Calories Head into Shenandoah National Park and tackle the road climb on the southern end of Skyline Drive that gains more than 1,000 feet in 10 miles on its way to the top of Loft Mountain. nps.gov/shen HARRISONBURG, VIRGINIA
This small college town has become a hotbed of beer, so prepare for a quick walking tour that takes in four breweries. Brothers Craft Brewing, on the north end of town, is in an old Coca-Cola plant (order their pale ale, called The Great Outdoors; brotherscraftbrewing.com). Then hit Wolfe Street (get the Citra Tonic if it’s on tap), Three Notch’d (Jack’s Java Espresso Stout for a kick; threenotchdbrewing.com) and finish at Pale Fire, where you’ll order the medal winning Salad Days Saison (palefirebrewing.com). p Burn Calories Get a trail pass from Shenandoah Valley Bicycle Coalition and knock out a couple of dirty loops on Massanutten’s rugged Western Slope, just outside of downtown.
svbcoalition.org
The High Country
Beer Trail NORTH CAROLINA 40 MILES
Y
ou could knock out every brewery on this High Country route in a day if you were ambitious, but you’d be missing the entire point of this trip. While the beer is good in the High Country, the adventure is better. Along this 40 mile trail that connects four breweries, you have either liftserved mountain biking or downhill skiing depending on the season, a legit peak scramble, some of the best road biking in the country, and even a bit of bouldering if you’re game.
BLIND SQUIRREL BREWING COMPANY
Located in a lodge in sleepy Plumtree, Blind Squirrel has been knocking out solid beers quietly since 2012. Show up on Saturday and you can take a tour of the brewery. Order the Nut Brown Ale. Because it’s a squirrel brewery. Bonus: There’s a zipline course and disc golf course on site. blindsquirrelbrewery.com
FLAT TOP BREWING
Make a pit stop in Banner Elk for shuffleboard and a pint of Rollcast, a super crisp and refreshing Kolsch. flattopbrewing.com
p Burn Calories Head to Grandfather Mountain State Park for a five-mile hike/rock scramble along the Grandfather Trail to Calloway Peak (grandfather.com). Or knock out a 20+ mile road ride that combines a choice piece of the Blue Ridge Parkway (crossing the Lynn Cove Viaduct) and US 221.
LOST PROVINCE BREWERY
Get an education in hops at this young brewery in downtown Boone by ordering the Lost Province IPA side by side with the Lost Province
Mosaic IPA. You’ll see what the addition of specific hop strains can do for a beer. lostprovince.com
APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN BREWERY AMB might be on the outskirts of town, but it’s the center of craft brewing in the High Country. Order anything—it’s all good—but we’re partial to Long Leaf IPA.
appalachianmountainbrewery.com
BOONESHINE BREWING
Less than a mile from AMB, Booneshine is a tiny brewery without its own taproom. You can watch the gang make beer through the window, then step next door to Basil’s for a sample at their bar. Get a flight, or go with the Sencha Saison, a Belgian farmhouse-style beer brewed with ginger and green tea. booneshine.beer
p Burn Calories Rocky Knob Mountain Bike Park, in Boone, has several miles of cross country trails built for progression so you can work on your tabletops, skinnies and drops.
rockyknob.wordpress.com
Blue Ridge
feet below the surface of Smith Mountain Lake, Sunken City is a small, 25-barrel brewpub with a killer taproom and beer garden near the shore of the lake. Order the Dam Lager, a malt-driven amber lager. sunkencitybeer.com
p Burn Calories Paddle a piece of Smith Mountain Lake’s 500 miles of shoreline. Bridgewater Marina has paddle boards ($60 a day; bwmarina.com).
CHAOS MOUNTAIN BREWING COMPANY
A rotating list of food trucks, live music and the occasional cornhole tournament makes Chaos Mountain a lively pit stop. You’re ordering the Squatch Ale, a malty Scotch ale with plenty of caramel goodness. chaosmountainbrewing.com
SOARING RIDGE CRAFT BREWERS
Downtown Roanoke’s first craft brewery has become a community center thanks to regular yoga classes, game nights and family fun days (with bounce houses and climbing walls!). Order the Virginia Creeper Pale Ale for the perfect balance of malty sweetness and hop bitterness. soaringridge.com
Beerway VIRGINIA 70 MILES
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oanoke is rapidly becoming Virginia’s hub of good beer, and Deschutes choosing the city for its East Coast expansion brewery helps solidify the city’s reputation. But there’s no need to wait until Deschutes opens its doors to enjoy the hop-bounty of the area. The new Blue Ridge Beerway connects five independent breweries operating in and around Star City.
SUNKEN CITY BREWING COMPANY Named after the city that sits 300
BIG LICK BREWING COMPANY
You can walk from Soaring Ridge to Big Lick, a nano-brewery that manages to put out an impressively diverse lineup, many of which are named after local personalities. Try the Jack Taylor’s House Party, an amber ale named after a morning talk radio show host. biglickbrewingco.com
p Burn Calories Explore Park, on the edge of downtown, offers 1,100-acres and 14 miles of mountain biking and trail running (explorepark.org). Or head to Mill Mountain for a mix of greenways and purpose-built singletrack overlooking downtown (playroanoke.com).
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FLYING MOUSE BREWERY Head out of town and into the mountains for the Flying Mouse, a brewery that’s within walking distance of the Appalachian Trail and directly on the TransAmerica 76 Bicycle Route. With the tagline “Life’s an adventure, drink accordingly,” I think you should order a flight and see which of the four flagship beers you like best. flyingmousebrewery.com
p Burn Calories Head straight for the A.T.'s McAfee Knob, and the best instagram post of your week is nearby.
Brewly Noted Beer Trail TENNESSEE + VIRGINIA 48 MILES
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hile Tennessee was a bit slow to the craft beer game, the state has been catching up at breakneck speeds, particularly in East Tennessee, where the Tri-Cities of Johnson City, Kingsport and Bristol have become a beer hub. The Brewly Noted Beer Trail links several craft breweries together while passing some of East Tennessee’s most underrated hiking and mountain biking.
JOHNSON CITY BREWING COMPANY Start in the very hip downtown of Johnson City. With a little luck, you’ll have the chance to try JCBC’s Community Brew, which uses hops gathered from customers. johnsoncitybrewing.com
YEE-HAW BREWING COMPANY
Hit Yee-Haw, in the renovated Tweetsie Train Depot, for an Eighty Shilling Scottish Ale, which is all malty goodness in a sessionable 5% ABV. yeehawbrewing.com
p Burn Calories Head south of town and climb a three-mile loop on Buffalo Mountain, which includes the White Rock Trail, where mountaintop cliff outcroppings provide big views to the east.
SLEEPY OWL BREWERY
along the Washington and Old Dominion Trail, which runs from D.C. to Purcellville. A 30-mile one-way ride on the trail will run you by half a dozen breweries. Here are the highlights.
BELTWAY BREWING COMPANY
Cruise through downtown Kingsport for a stop at Sleepy Owl, which got its start through a successful Kickstarter campaign. You’ll find a bunch of different IPAs on tap, but go with the slightly sweet Honey Ale if it’s available. sleepyowlbrewery.com
Beltway was built to be a contract brewery, producing beers for breweries all over the region. Their small taproom is a showcase for the beers brewed on the premises, so you never know what you’ll get, but the diversity is usually impressive.
p Burn Calories Explore an eight-mile loop in Warriors’ Path State Park, where singletrack cruises along the shores of Fort Patrick Henry Lake. Watch for the rocky downhill on Boneyard.
OLD OX BREWERY
BRISTOL, VIRGINIA/TENNESSEE
You’re gonna stroll into Virginia on this two-stop walking tour of small town beer. Grab a Mex-I-Can Backfire, an easy drinking Mexicanstyle lager, at Studio Brew. And buy your designated driver one of Studio’s homemade Big E’Z’ Root Beers (studiobrew.beer). Wander over to the one-year-old Bristol Brewing, in the historic bus station, and order the Red Neck Amber. Because it’s called “Red Neck Amber.”
LoCo Ale Trail VIRGINIA 30 MILES
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( BY B I K E )
oudoun County is best known as Virginia’s wine country, but the area now has 17 breweries churning out beer in the midst of rolling farms. While it might be tempting (and a bit dangerous) to hit all 17 breweries in a single trip, we recommend you focus your efforts by grabbing a bike and knocking out a handful of breweries
beltwaybrewco.com
Located at mile 25 on the W&OD, Old Ox is a cyclist’s retreat known for impromptu cornhole tournaments. Order the Black Ox, a rye porter that balances the roast character of the porter with the spice of the rye-heavy malt bill. oldoxbrewery.com
LEESBURG, VIRGINIA
You can knock out two breweries within a couple of blocks of each other at the halfway point. Crooked Run is a low-key nanobrewery with five rotating taps. Look for their Jake o’ Lantern, a spiced butternut squash ale, in the fall (crookedrunbrewing.com). Stroll over to Loudon Brewing Company for a pint of their flagship Loud and Brewing, which is all about the Cascade and Chinook hops (loudonbrewing.com), on their shady deck.
BELLY LOVE BREWING
On Purcellville’s Main Street, and near the end of the W&OD, Belly Love has a fairly swanky taproom with solid pub fare. Order the Narcissist, a malt-forward but still crisp lager (bellylovebrewing.com). Bonus: If you still have legs, you can tack on two more breweries in Purcellville—Corcoran Brewing and Adroit Theory.
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Votes poured in this summer for our State of the Hops contest, which pitted 64 of the best breweries in North Carolina and Virginia against each other, but at final tally, only one brewery could walk away victorious. This year’s winner was Appalachian Mountain Brewery (AMB) out of the High Country of Boone, North Carolina. If the name sounds familiar, you may remember them from their runaway victory of last year’s Best Sixer Ever contest. With successful flagships like the Longleaf IPA, the SpoatyOaty Pale Ale, and the Boone Creek Blonde, AMB has been garnering brewing accolades and community support since they opened their doors in 2011. They are known for award-winning beers and a deep commitment to their community and environmental stewardship. With their ‘Pints for NonProfits’ program, they donate a portion of every pint sold in their tasting room to local charities. They’re also huge supporters of outdoor recreation. “We live and breathe the outdoor lifestyle,” said co-founder Danny Wilcox. “And we’re committed to using the sale of our beer as a way to protect the outdoors for future generations to enjoy.”
Equipping Life & Adventure Barracks Road Shopping Center Charlottesville 434.995.5669
Take it Outside.
Come get lost and find yourself
Come explore Patrick County, Virginia. Picnics at a covered bridge or along the Blue Ridge Parkway, canoe rides, traditional mountain music, artisan studios, local wineries, bed and breakfasts, camping, hiking, mountain biking, and fishing are just a few of the attractions awaiting you. From the rugged outdoors to 5-Star luxury, there is so much to discover in Patrick County. www.visitpatrickcounty.org
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Hilltop East Shopping Center Virginia Beach 757.962.6618
GreatOutdoorProvision.com
The Atlantic Coast Pipeline has grabbed most of the headlines, but 25 additional natural gas pipelines have been proposed for the East, crossing national forests, state parks, and suburban backyards.
by LUCIE HANES
Coal may be declining, but fracking is booming.
Over two dozen natural gas pipelines are planned for the region, many of which cross our favorite outdoor playgrounds. Other pipelines will use eminent domain to traverse private property. All of them will affect the future of energy, health, and recreation in the East. DO WE NEED NATURAL GAS PIPELINES? Dominion Power stands behind their Atlantic Coast Pipeline as a necessary means to meet energy needs throughout the region. “Demand is expected to increase by 165% over the next two decades,” Dominion spokesperson Aaron Ruby says. “Our existing infrastructure is simply not capable of meeting these needs.” As communities grow and businesses expand, energy demands also increase within those developments, Ruby says. Touting natural gas as a “bridge fuel,” Dominion and other energy companies are hoping to build a massive pipeline infrastructure that
could extend fossil fuel dependence for another century or more. Currently 34 percent of our energy comes from natural gas. 19 pipelines are proposed for Appalachia. If built, we would blow past our climate change commitments made in Paris, according to Oil Change International. And a recent report by Synapse Economics shows that gas pipelines aren’t needed to feed electrical demand. They conclude: “Given existing pipeline capacity [and] existing natural gas storage…the supply capacity of the Virginia‐Carolinas region’s existing natural gas infrastructure is more than sufficient to meet expected future peak demand.” Each individual pipeline costs upwards of $50 million, with several reaching into the billion-dollar price range. The Atlantic Sunrise Pipeline comes with an estimated price tag of $3 billion, while the Atlantic Coast and Northeast Energy Direct lines ring up at over $5 billion. Such high costs will force the region and the nation to commit to fossil fuels for many more decades. More pipeline
Instead of a fossil-fuel pipeline infrastructure, why aren't we building a renewable energy network? infrastructure also means more drilling and fracking in order to supply the lines with enough gas. But the multibillion dollar investment in a natural gas infrastructure—including massive subsidies from the federal government—is taking away from investment in renewable energy. If the U.S. had given the same subsidies to solar and wind as it has to oil and gas, we could meet most of our energy needs today with renewables. Solar and wind power now make up over 75 percent of new electric capacity additions in the United States—representing over $70 billion in new capital investment in 2016 alone. So why aren’t we building a renewable energy infrastructure instead of a fossil-fueled pipeline
network? No one is claiming that renewables can provide all of our electricity overnight. Massive hurdles in energy storage still need to be cleared, and the better battery grail remains elusive. But a smart grid of renewable technologies seems like a better long-term investment than thousands of miles of fracked-gas pipelines. IS NATURAL GAS BETTER THAN COAL? Ruby argues that natural gas provides a vast improvement over the coal. “Natural gas produces half the carbon emissions as coal,” Ruby claims. “Our project will help the region reduce carbon emissions and meet the regulations of the new Federal Clean Power Plan.”
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GASLAND: PIPELINES PLANNED FOR APPALACHIA 25 pipelines are planned in the East (so far), traversing many beloved public lands and waterways. Here are a few of the pipelines posing the greatest threats to public health and public lands in the region: ATLANTIC COAST PIPELINE START / END POINT: Lewis County, W.Va. to Robeson County, N.C. STATES AFFECTED: West Virginia, Virginia, North Carolina SIGNIFICANT LANDS AFFECTED: George Washington and Monongahela National Forests, the Blue Ridge Parkway, the Appalachian Trail, Wintergreen Resort
MARINER EAST PIPELINE START / END POINT: Scio, Ohio to Marcus Hook, Pa. STATES AFFECTED: Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Ohio SIGNIFICANT LANDS AFFECTED: Indiana County Pine Ridge Park
SUNBURY PIPELINE START / END POINT: Lycoming County, Pa. to Northumberland County, Pa. STATES AFFECTED: Pennsylvania SIGNIFICANT LANDS AFFECTED:
Susquehanna River
SOUTHERN RELIABILITY LINK PIPELINE START / END POINT: Burlington County, N.J. to Ocean County, N.J. STATES AFFECTED: New Jersey SIGNIFICANT LANDS AFFECTED: Pinelands National Reserve, several National and State Historic Register properties, Monmouth County Park System, Crosswicks Creek
SUPPLY HEADER PROJECT START / END POINT: Sections from Westmoreland County, Pa. to Harrison County, W.Va. STATES AFFECTED: Pennsylvania, West Virginia SIGNIFICANT LANDS AFFECTED: Lewis Wetzel Wildlife Management Area
MOUNTAIN VALLEY PIPELINE START / END POINT: Wetzel County, W.Va. to Pittsylvania County, Va. STATES AFFECTED: West Virginia, Virginia SIGNIFICANT LANDS AFFECTED: Jefferson National Forest, the Appalachian Trail
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LEACH XPRESS PROJECT START / END POINT: Marshall County, W.Va. to Wayne County, W.Va. STATES AFFECTED: West Virginia, Pennsylvania, Ohio SIGNIFICANT LANDS AFFECTED:
natural gas is only better than coal if leakage in the gas pipelines and extraction is less than 3.2 percent. 100% HANDCRAFTED IN EUROPE WHERE WILL YOU GO IN Leakages regularly soar above this limit. Methane—the leaked gas—is an even more potent greenhouse gas Your pix could be in our next ad… SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA. BIG SUR. MOUNT SNOWDON. THE TAJ MAHAL. CAMINO DE SANTIAGO. CHAMONIX. THE MASAI MARA OF KENYA. than carbon dioxide. #LOWABOOTS Fracking, a drilling method that involves injecting high-pressure toxic fluids into the ground, has been linked to increased earthquakes and ICELAND’S TUNDRA AND GLACIERS. THE WASATCH MOUNTAINS. PRAGUE. THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL. TORRES DE PAINES, CHILE… groundwater contamination. It uses mercury, lead, methanol, uranium, Our best-selling Renegade GTX® Mid is renowned for its great fit, and formaldehyde to blast through out-of-the-box comfort and versatility. It’s loaded with thoughtful the ground, and many of these features such as a durably waterproof & breathable GORE-TEX® lining, a rugged VIBRAM® outsole, and our PU (polyurethane) chemicals end up in communities’ MONOWRAP® midsole for long-lasting comfort and support, drinking water. wherever your adventures take you. Pipeline construction itself causes air pollution and acid rain that harms RENEGADE GTX® MID Available for men & women. the surrounding soil and vegetation, Women‘s Red shown here. invades natural wildlife habitats, and contaminates water supplies. Once completed, pipelines continue to cause disruption by maintaining rights-ofLOWA Boots & Shoes Can Be Found at These Specialty Outdoor Retailers: way that permanently splinter natural landscapes and block regular animal movement, while also emitting ©2016 LOWA Boots, LLC. air pollution from compressor stations that jeopardize public and LOWA BRO_Oct16_Final.indd 1 8/27/16 environmental health. Many local landowners and environmentalists believe that this money would be better spent investing in a renewable energy infrastructure that would set us on a path toward cleaner energy and healthier, more sustainable communities. Joanna Hanes-Lahr, a resident in Annapolis, Md., worries about pipeline safety amid increased rates of leakage and rupture. She is concerned about drinking water, gas explosions, and increased air and water pollution. She and others believe that a renewable energy infrastructure makes more sense ecologically and economically. “We don’t need the fracked gas,” she says. “Clean energy is here today.”
YOUR RENEGADES? #
DALTON EXPANSION START / END POINT: Coweta County, Ga. to Murray County, Ga. STATES AFFECTED: Georgia SIGNIFICANT LANDS AFFECTED: Etowah River OTHER CONCERNS: A recent oil spill into the Etowah River is a dangerous consequence of the Dalton Expansion Project’s movement across the waterway.
SABAL TRAIL PIPELINE START / END POINT: Tallapoosa County, Ala. to Osceola County, Fla. STATES AFFECTED: Alabama, Georgia, Florida SIGNIFICANT LANDS AFFECTED: Falmouth Cathedral Cave System, the Green Swamp, Suwannee River State Park
illustration by WADE MICKLEY
Natural gas companies also claim that access to local shale gas supplies in Pennsylvania and West Virginia will prove more cost-effective than transporting the gas from the Gulf Coast. Pending their completion, pipelines like the Atlantic Coast project could save the consumer base hundreds of millions of dollars in energy costs. “Cheap energy options lead an improved economic competitiveness of the region,” says Ruby. But is the environmental and public health cost worth it? “The pipelines in and of themselves are devastating for the communities that they pass through,” says Maya van Rossum, spokesperson for the Delaware Riverkeeper Network. “They cut through wetlands, creeks, rivers, and inflict an immense amount of ecological harm that cannot be undone.” And according to Ramon Alvarez of the Environmental Defense Fund,
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Muskingum River, Wayne National Forest, the Wilds
11:23 AM
visitwytheville.com • 1-877-347-8307
WHAT ABOUT JOBS? The pipeline industry promises to create new jobs, but they neglect to mention the expenses that accompany them. Pipeline construction often threatens the status of community O C TO B E R 2 01 6 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M
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projects, tourism, and scenic viewsheds which attract many more jobs and visitors. Wintergreen and Nelson County may encounter a loss of $80 million and 250 jobs as a result of two large projects—a new resort hotel and marketplace—that would be postponed or canceled due to pipeline construction. Already, solar and wind industries employ more workers than oil and gas. The solar industry has hired more veterans than any other industry, retrained coal workers, and has created one out of 80 jobs in the U.S. since the Great Depression. And wind is not far behind. According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, wind technician is the fastest growing job category. The Delaware Riverkeeper Network has also found that the clean energy sector provides more jobs and a better quality of employment than natural gas jobs. Natural gas employees “spend six months to build something and then [they’re] out,” says van Rossum. “For every million invested in clean, renewable energy versus fossil fuels, you get 3 to 5 times the number of direct jobs created. You also get a lot more long-term jobs.” 44
WHERE ARE THE PIPELINES PROPOSED? Some of the outdoor community’s most treasured sites may be destroyed by pipeline implementation, including the beloved backbone of the Blue Ridge: the Appalachian Trail. The proposed PennEast, Atlantic Coast, and Mountain Valley pipelines cross the Appalachian Trail on several occasions, which will cause permanent disruptions to the trail and surrounding forest. “The natural gas companies have not done a good job articulating a plan that will not have an impact on hikers [because] they are looking at boring under the trail, which is not compatible with the trail experience,” says Director of Conservation Laura Belleville. Pipelines have also been proposed through Delaware State Forest in Pennsylvania and High Point State Park in New Jersey, the latter of which boasts the highest point in New Jersey. “Now, when you go to look from that high point, what you’ll see is just a swath of denuded forest with a pipeline cut through it,” says van Rossum. In West Virginia and Virginia,
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Monongahela and George Washington National Forests and the Blue Ridge Parkway will be permanently marred by the Atlantic Coast Pipeline, which will require regular clearcutting along its entire length. The Mountain Valley Pipeline similarly endangers Virginia’s Jefferson National Forest, while the Leach Xpress Pipeline moves within 2 short miles of The Wilds Preservation Area and Wayne National Forest in Ohio. Farther south, the Dalton Expansion Project will cross the Etowah River and has already poisoned the waterway after an oil spill during the preparatory construction process. The Sabal Trail Pipeline that winds through Alabama, Georgia, and Florida crosses above the Falmouth Cathedral Cave System, parts of which lie only 30 feet below the earth’s surface and are liable to collapse as a result of the pipeline’s intended path. The Sierra Club has already opened cases against pipelines where “environmental effects have not been adequately addressed in public areas,” says Thomas Au, the Oil and Gas Chair of the Pennsylvania chapter.
Right now, the Constitution Pipeline and Atlantic Sunrise Pipelines worry Au the most. These proposed pipelines pass through Ricketts Glen State Park and across the Lehigh, Susquehanna, and Conestoga Rivers. Private landowners are also in jeopardy. Pipeline companies are frequently given permission by the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission to use eminent domain to construct and maintain pipelines across private property. Even if property owners refuse to sell their land, the companies can seize the land anyway. That’s what happened to the North Harford Maple Farm in New Milford, Pennsylvania, where the Holleran family runs their maple syrup business. But the Constitution Pipeline will run straight through the Holleran’s property and take down the maple trees that they and their loyal customers depend on. Even worse: most people who will lose their land to pipelines will not receive any energy benefits in return. Eminent domain seizures mostly accommodate the interests of those on either end of the pipeline while taking resources from the communities in between. Many of the proposed pipelines will take new paths rather than follow existing rights-of-way, like highways and electric lines. Choosing to use pre-established pipeline routes reduces waste by conserving the amount of land in use—a perk that appeals to environmentalists and landowners alike. “When we saw what Dominion had crafted for its pipeline route, we were a little horrified,” says Jon Ansell, Chairman of the Friends of Wintergreen. “There are better choices using the principle of co-location.” The Nelson County, Va., organization hopes to protect Wintergreen Resort from the Atlantic Coast Pipeline by examining alternative routes that use more existing rights-of-way. Pipelines ultimately inflict lasting wounds but provide only a shortterm energy fix. Together, these pipelines will cut across 3,500 miles of Appalachia and beyond.
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HOMEWARD BOUND
FROM CAROLINA TO THE CRESCENT CITY, SETH WALKER FINDS HIS GROOVE
by JEDD FERRIS Throughout his career, bluesy songsmith Seth Walker has lived in some of America’s most musical cities: Austin, Nashville, and, currently, New Orleans. But to make his new album, the September-released Gotta Get Back, he decided to revisit the influence of his youth growing up in the piedmont region of North Carolina. Walker was raised on a commune just north of Greensboro. His parents were classical violin teachers, who taught him his first instrument, the cello. But with his mom, dad, and sister, he shared a log home with another family, who also introduced him to the great Texas troubadours like Willie Nelson and Guy Clark. Add in the blues guitar Walker started playing as a student at East Carolina University and it’s easy to understand how he developed a broad roots-based sound as he moved around the South. Family, though, is at the heart of his new album. While writing the songs for Gotta Get Back, his ninth album, Walker played his dad early sketches of the tunes and asked him to arrange string parts. Then after initial recording at Zac Brown’s Southern 46
Ground studio in Nashville, Walker gathered his parents and sister back in North Carolina to add layers to the album at a studio in Chapel Hill. The bond is felt strongest on “Back Again,” a clap-along gospel number so smoothly unified it makes it hard to believe Walker and his family hadn’t played music together in 20 years, when his parents separated. “Getting my family involved made it complete,” Walker said of the recording. “We just put the past aside and played music. It was heavy, but beautiful.” That redemptive spirit lingers throughout most of the new album, which was produced by Jano Rix, Wood Brothers’ drummer and keyboardist. Walker looks to the future through an airy folk-rock groove in “Movin’ On” and sings with hearty optimism in “Turn This Thing Around.” In the title track he sings,” I’ve gotta get back, before I can move ahead.” The album started coming together when Walker was living in Nashville, and he found himself writing songs to potentially impress the Music Row establishment, which ultimately left him feeling creatively
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compromised. Now recording for the independent label Royal Potato Family, whose roster includes fellow adventurous artists like Garage A Trois, Marco Benevento, and underground jazz legend Steven Bernstein, Walker feels rejuvenated after recently reuniting with family and digging into his musical roots. “I was feeling the teeth of the music business machine, and it was rubbing me wrong,” he said. “I felt like I was calculating my music a little bit, so I made a conscious effort to get back to the reasons why I started doing this in the first place.” Walker will mostly be living in his van throughout the rest of the fall, as he zig-zags around the Midwest, Mid-Atlantic, and Southeast. When he’s off the road, he now hangs his fedora in New Orleans. The new album track “Fire in the Belly,” a gritty, Meters-style funk tune that shows another side of an artist who— after some self-reflection—seems to be in the right place. “People down here eat, sleep, and breathe music,” Walker says of his new home. “It’s a syncopated city. Just being here is definitely influencing my songs.” BlueRidgeOutdoors
AVETT BROTHERS AND WARREN HAYNES TO PLAY JERRY This month North Carolina folkrockers the Avett Brothers and guitar hero Warren Haynes will team up for a special show to pay tribute to the music of late Grateful Dead guitarist Jerry Garcia. Taking place October 15 at the EagleBank Arena in Fairfax, Va., the evening dubbed “This is 30!” will look back three decades, as the Avetts and Haynes recreate an entire show by Garcia’s solo band that took place in October of 1986. Haynes is no stranger to the music of Garcia. He’s logged many years playing in Grateful Dead offshoots, including Phil Lesh and Friends and spent time this summer leading the Jerry Garcia Symphonic Celebration—a project that features Haynes interpreting Garcia’s music with orchestras in different cities. Somewhat surprising is the involvement of the Avett Brothers, the Americana heroes known for fueling their high-energy live shows with soaring vocals more than long guitar solos. Brothers Scott and Seth Avett have, however, welcomed Grateful Dead singer and guitarist Bob Weir to the stage with their now-seven-piece band on a few occasions. How this artistic pairing will interpret selections from the Jerry Garcia Band catalog, which veers into soul and funk as well as rock, is still anyone’s guess. The arena show is part of a two-night celebration, “Dear Jerry 2: Let’s Play,” that follows up a multi-band Garcia tribute show from the spring of 2015. A night prior, October 14, Haynes will play Garcia songs at the more intimate D.A.R. Constitution Hall in Washington, D.C., with help from Alison Krauss, Jamey Johnson, and John Medeski. FORE MORE INFO Check out DearJerryTwo.com
GoOutAndPlay
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PROTECTING THE SOUTH’S ENVIRONMENT through the POWER of the LAW