Blue Ridge Outdoors October 2022

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+ HIKING GEAR FOR AUTUMN + TRAIL TALES: NEW A.T. BOOK + KAYAK TRAINING BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COMOCTOBER2022 FREE! HIKESHARD STEEP CLIMBS AND SWEET VIEWS ON THE SOUTH'S TOUGHEST TRAILS Fall Fishing HOW TO CATCH BROWN TROUT ROLLING ON THE RIVERS Best Paddling Trails in the Blue Ridge

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Sheryl Ely, director of parks and recreation in Knoxville, Tenn., has had similar experiences. “There’s a huge gap in the people that look like me on the water,” Ely, who recently took a PLA course, said. “Sometimes when you see people that look like you in spaces that you haven’t been, you feel a little bit more comfortable.”

After almost a decade working in the outdoor industry, James has built a broad resume: leading youth camps, directing paddle races, and developing a blueway trail. He’s also observed how equipment costs, time constraints, and lack of transportation make it difficult for those from marginalized communities to participate in mountain sports. “A lot of communities of color were built without access to green spaces or rivers,” James said.Years of dealing with the impediments to promoting recreation equity left James feeling burnt out. But his long-time dream of creating a more inclusive paddle training program kept himThegoingPaddlesports Leadership Academy (PLA)—a collaboration with adventure coach Anna Levesque, owner of Mind Body Paddle, and Lizzy Gardner, program manager of the Tennessee RiverLine—is training a new set of paddling leaders in underserved communities. The PLA was designed to increase participants’ paddle craft knowledge across disciplines, ultimately helping them earn ACA Community Paddlesport Leader certification. Unlike other ACA instructor courses that focus on one type of boat, this certification gives a broad overview of kayaking, canoeing, and standup paddleboarding techniques, as well as safety and

Moving forward, the PLA team hopes to host training events around the country, building a larger network of paddling leaders. “A lot of DEI [diversity, equity, and inclusion] programming

“When you think of out door recreation, a lot of people think about super steezy people hucking off a waterfall,” James said. “I wanted to spread the stoke to everybody.”

WHEN GERRY SEAVO JAMES organized a Black Lives Matter Paddle Out on the Kentucky River to honor Breonna Taylor, George Floyd, and Ahmaud Arbery in the summer of 2020, many people in his paddling circle wouldn't particpate. As the founder of of the Explore Kentucky Initiative, James works to break down barriers people of color face accessing the outdoors, but he says he often faces pushback.

At the first PLA event last June, nine community leaders from across the Southeast met in Knoxville for five days of paddling. Each participant received free admission, as well as a travel stipend, lodging, food, sponsored gear, and a free first-aid course. “When you think of outdoor recreation, a lot of people think about super steezy people hucking off a waterfall,” James said. “I wanted to spread the stoke to everybody.”Thoseefforts include supplying the funds and equipment needed for training, and James reiterates his focus on developing Black leaders and leaders of color in the paddling community is not about excluding people. “It’s more about reaching people that traditionally have been underserved because of discrimination,” he said.

At her course Ely found like-minded

As founder of H2O Life in Chattanooga, Tenn., Shawanna Kendrick leads a variety of outings designed to help women of color experience the physical and mental benefits of spending time in nature. When she learned about PLA from a colleague, she hoped taking a course would improve her skills as an outdoor facilitator.

The course helped boost her confidence in her own abilities, and PLA also introduced her to a network of people working on similar projects and goals. Working side-by-side with eight other Black participants, Kendrick found community in an industry that often uses diversity to check a box. “There was not one time I felt out of place or unsafe,” Kendrick said. “As a Black woman, that is not always my norm.”

(TOP) THE INAUGURAL PADDLESPORTS LEADERSHIP ACADEMY COHORT BROUGHT TOGETHER COMMUNITY LEADERS FROM ACROSS THE SOUTH. PHOTO BY ELIZABETH RIESTER, TENNESSEE RIVERLINE (MIDDLE) PLA PARTICIPANTS RECEIVE HANDS-ON EXPERIENCE IN LEADING PADDLE OUTINGS. PHOTO BY GERRY JAMES (LOWER) GERRY SEAVO JAMES LEADS A WORKSHOP. PHOTO BY ANNA LEVESQUE, MIND BODY PADDLE

He was once directly asked, “There’s no one at a boat ramp blocking Black people from getting on the water, so why do you talk about it like that?”

WATERSCHANGING

support and tested her limits as an adventurer. “As a half-century person who has some aches and pains, when you’re flipped out of a canoe and have to get back into that canoe when you’re not really comfortable in the water really shows that you can do it,” she said.

leadership training.

tends to be a one-and-done thing,” PLA instructor Lizzy Gardner said. Instructors hope previous cohorts remain a part of the program, returning as teachers in future sessions to continue their leadership experience.

When he took his first standup paddling instructor course in 2015, James had to drive from Kentucky to Florida to find an instructor and slept in his car throughout the course’s multi-day run. Since that time, James said he is still often the only Black instructor at events.

RECREATION EQUITY

A new academy trains paddlers and broadens outdoor inclusivity

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 7

FIELD NOTES

Experience,Education,Opportunities Leadingmultiplenationalnetworks expandinginclusionandeducational excellencethroughfield-basedcurricula andanewOutdoorLeadershipCertificate, VCUEnvironmentalStudiesrealizesthat thebesteducationoftenhappens outsideoftheclassroom. UN CoNVenTIONAL

PHOTO BY MIKE BEZEMEK

That evening, we faced a challenging situation. Staying in a city of over 150,000 people, about 30,000 of whom are students at five local colleges and universities, there were just too many breweries to choose from. My wife immediately nixed my suggestion to visit them all for “research” (around four plus several tap rooms). Instead, we picked one and took a leisurely drive through Macon’s historic downtown on our way over.

PEACH STATE PARKS

RECENTLY MY WIFE AND I WERE driving across the South, searching for a quick stop on a cross-country road trip, when a small dot on the National Park System map caught my eye: Ocmulgee Mounds National Historical Park, just sitting by itself in the middle of Georgia. Displaying every National Park Service unit across the country, these overview maps are a great tool to have on a trip, and when you’re not familiar with a

exploring, we stumbled across a section of the partially completed Ocmulgee Heritage Trail, currently 13 miles and counting. When completed, this mixeduse paved path will run from Amerson River Park south along the river through town to Ocmulgee Mounds.

Fall Line Brewing Co. is housed in a refurbished brick warehouse, with an excellent outdoor area. The brewery is named for the Atlantic Seaboard Fall Line, which passes through Macon. This roughly 900-mile ridgeline marks the boundary between the rolling foothills of the Piedmont and the sandy coastal plain.

particular spot, sometimes you just have to roll the dice.

We pulled into the adjoining city of Macon on a Saturday afternoon in late May. Our first stop was the forested Amerson River Park—mostly because the name includes two of our favorite words. A quick internet search indicated there were several miles of walking paths. But figuring out this busy park was another matter. First, I parked in the wrong spot. Then we walked the wrong way and ended up emerging from pine trees into a high school graduation party. Most of the dads and sons were sweating in the shade of a pavilion, watching the overheated moms dance, while the giggling daughters pretended they were cool with it.

GEMSUNDERRATEDGEORGIA’S

Sitting outside, I tried the hazy pale ale and an excellent brisket sandwich. My wife ordered the veggie sandwich and hoped for a cider but was pleasantly surprised by their cherry-lime sour. A rowdy wedding reception was happening in the brewery’s event hall which inspired me to next try the flagship IPA. We watched as increasingly sweaty and inebriated attendees spilled outside in formal attire, fervently postponing their inevitable dehydration with craft beer.

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BY MIKE BEZEMEK

Sometime between 15,000 and 20,000 years ago, Paleo-Indians dispersed from Eurasia across the Bering land bridge into North America. By roughly 12,000 years ago, they were hunting and gathering throughout the region surrounding present-day Macon.

A road-trip detour leads to new discoveries at Ocmulgee Mounds and nearby Macon

Early the next morning, we were the second vehicle in the parking lot at Ocmulgee Mounds National Historic Park. The visitor center wasn’t open yet, so we took off on a self-guided walking tour.

My wife and I returned to the forest. We soon found our way along the Park Loop trail, which roughly followed a protruding bend in the Ocmulgee River. In the water below, a pack of inner tubers floated lazily downstream past a sandy beach filled with locals. While

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 9

A VISITOR WALKS TOWARDS EARTH LODGE AT OCMULGEE MOUNDS.

the path past Cornfield Mound and an old village site to the outline of a British trading post, established in 1690 to facilitate trade with the Muscogee. This tribe descended from the mound builders, and they inhabited the area until the 1830s when they were forcibly relocated by the U.S government along the Trail of Tears to Oklahoma.Reaching the park road, we passed a couple walking a pair of bicycles. They were the first two of about 25 total visitors we would encounter that morning—at a park that sees only about 150,000 visitors per year.

Turning back along the road, my wife and I followed the bed of a former railroad that was built through the

We trudged on through the hot and humid morning toward the edge of Funeral Mound. This was once a burial ground for elite members of the Ocmulgee society, who built it up in successive stages over centuries.

As we drove out of town, we agreed that someday we’d return. But in the meantime, we pulled out the NPS System Map and pondered, where to next ?

10 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

About 1,100 years ago, the Mississippian culture had long been farming the river bottoms when they began building complex earthworks at Ocmulgee, including elevated ceremonial and burial mounds. But after 300 years, this thriving riverside community was mysteriously abandoned.Centuries later, European explorers and American settlers would arrive and notice these lingering mounds. But it wasn’t until 1934 when the site was protected as a U.S. national monument and archeological excavations began. Today, the redesignated national historic park totals about 3,300 acres and offers eight miles of walking paths winding through seven preserved mounds.

site in the 1840s, partially destroying what became known as Lesser Temple Mound. It’s the smaller of the two tallest mounds in the park, the other being the Great Temple Mound. We climbed the stairs to the 55-foot summit of this earthen structure, which offered expansive views of riparian forest and the building tops of downtown Macon. Archeologists estimate it took 10 million baskets of dirt, each weighing about 60 pounds, to build this flat-topped pyramid where the village chief may have lived.

Next came the twisty Bartram Trail, named for famed naturalist and explorer

Our first stop was Earth Lodge, where a recreated ceremonial chamber was built over an authentic clay floor discovered atop a surviving mound. Ducking through a log-framed passageway led inside the heart of this mound, where Mississippian tribespeople gathered a thousand yearsWeago.followed

From here we followed a round-about route through the remaining highlights. We crossed a bridge over Walnut Creek and walked down to the Ocmulgee River, where the River Trail joins the Heritage Trail. Then we backtracked and followed the Opelofa Trail through wetlands. A slight incline led up to Southeast Mound, the purpose of which has puzzled archeologists due to its location outside the village site’s fortifications.

William Bartram, who visited what he called the Ocmulgee Old Fields in 1774. Near the visitor center, we detoured to some Civil War earthworks created during a pair of onsite battles fought in 1864 that related to Sherman’s March to the InsideSea.

(LARGER PHOTO) LESSER TEMPLE MOUND SEEN FROM THE TOP OF GREATER TEMPLE MOUND. PHOTOS BY MIKE BEZEMEK

the visitor center, we circled through archeology exhibits that offered thousands of years of fascinating context for the site. We learned about nomadic hunters following roaming mammoth herds, the Mississippian peoples populating the Southeast, the Muscogee’s ancestors building the Ocmulgee Mounds, and the largest archeological dig in American history uncovering the remnants that became a national historic park.

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Visit MDMOUNTAINSIDE.COM Return to the crisp mountain air, forests bathed in splendid color and miles of breathtaking views that can only be experienced on the trails of Allegany County, the Mountain Side of Maryland. There are countless hidden gems waiting to be discovered and explored. THE TRAIL STARTS HERE. miles under your feet? WE’VE GOT A TRAIL FOR THAT!

Simply put, the place is beautiful. But getting there takes some legwork.

HARDEST HIKES

says Brittany Mendez with SmokyMountains.com. Come springtime, this 5,441-foot peak is rife with undulating grasses and vibrant wildflowers. And, in the fall, “all the colors are a gentle shade of orange and yellow.”

Rocky Top from Lead Cove Trailhead Townsend, Tenn.

Leaving from the Lead Cove Trailhead, the footpath follows a babbling brook before turning right onto Bote Mountain Trail, an old logging road from the 1830s. From

A MELLOW TRAIL HAS ITS PLACE. BUT SOMETIMES you need an ass-kicking ascent to shake you out of your comfort zone and test your aerobic limits.

BY LAUREN STEPP

EACH NIGHT, THE RED RIVER GORGE OFFERS SWOON-WORTHY SUNSETS. PHOTO COURTESY OF KENTUCKY DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM

Raise your heart rate on seven of the toughest trail routes in the Southeast

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 13

Recommended by regional hiking experts, these routes will help you do just that.

Length: 12.5 miles round-trip Elevation gain: 3,864 feet Trail type: Out-and-back

According to the Osborne Brothers, you won’t find no “smoggy smoke” on Rocky Top. Ain’t no telephone bills either. You will, however, find epic views and loads of adventure. “There’sa reason Rocky Top has a song about it,”

Length: 11.2 miles round-trip Elevation gain: 2,247 feet  Trail type: Loop

Jake Blood isn’t one to mince words, especially when it comes to grueling treks.

“There can be no doubt: The toughest day hike in all of the Appalachian Mountains is the Black Mountain Crest Trail (BMCT),” says Blood, president of the North Carolina High Peaks Trail Association.

POND RUN

To most diehard adventurers, a five-mile hike climbing less than 1,000 feet is an afternoon jaunt—an amuse-bouche to something grittier and more painful. But in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge, a five-mile hike will tucker you out plenty, says avid outdoorsman Bryce Boone.

Black Mountain Crest Trail

Wardensville, W.Va.

THE HIKE TO TABLE ROCK INVOLVES SOME FUN ROCK SCRAMBLES. PHOTO COURTESY OF SOUTH CAROLINA DEPARTMENT OF PARKS, RECREATION, AND TOURISM

Length: 5.2 miles round-trip Elevation gain: 928 feet Trail type: Loop

Pond Run and White Rocks Loop Trail

If you’re itching for a true backcountry experience, Pond Run and White Rocks Loop Trail in remote Hardy County is the place to go.

Length: 11.3 miles one way Elevation gain: 5,147 feet Trail type: Out-and-back or shuttle

Lovingly named the “Death March,” this lung-

The most indefatigable of hikers can choose to extend their adventure, taking a nearby trail to a fire tower on Halfmoon Mountain.

For your troubles, you’ll be rewarded with unsullied solitude and “expansive overlooks,” says Michele Mouré-Reeves, executive director of the Hardy County Convention and Visitors Bureau.

Later in the hike, a short spur trail takes you to the pièce de résistance: a massive rock face known as Cloud Splitter. Using a ragged, time-worn rope, hikers must pull themselves up the exposed precipice. As you climb, you “feel like you’re looking straight up into the sky,” says Boone.

14 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

Burnsville, N.C.

Campton, Ky.

there, you begin a strenuous, unrelenting climb to the Appalachian Trail, which eventually rewards with 360-degree views of the valley below.

Nestled in George Washington National Forest, this loop traverses unrelenting terrain, requiring that hikers scramble over ankle-twisting rocks and cross rushing streams.

As Boone explains, Indian Staircase to Cloud Splitter Trail is a “pretty intense hike.” The odyssey follows the Sheltowee Trace National Recreation Trail, which zigzags in and out of small canyons and eventually leads to Indian Staircase, a series of Moki steps that climb a sandstone outcropping.

Indian Staircase to Cloud Splitter Trail

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 15 800-933-PARK (7275) | www.virginiastateparks.gov | Know Before You Go — Recreate Responsibly NATURAL TUNNEL STATE PARK Your Parks Your adventures

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Length: 16.7 miles round-trip Elevation gain: 4,776 feet   Trail type: Loop

Technically, says Gifford, there are two summits on this hike: Big House Mountain and Little House Mountain. “There’s a third overlook too that requires a rock scramble,” she says. All in all, the hike is a “toughie for sure.”

Table Rock to Sassafras Mountain Loop Pickens, S.C.

House Mountain Trail Lexington, Va.

THE BLACK MOUNTAINS ARE STUNNING BUT CRUEL. PHOTO COURTESY OF JAKE BLOOD

Starting near Carrick Creek Falls in Table Rock State Park, the trail climbs steadily through pine forests to Pinnacle Mountain. Once at Pinnacle, you have two options: Loop back to your car to grumble in agony or connect with the Foothills Trail for a soul-crushing

a slow, mind-numbing jog.

According to SCUM member Kim Manturuk, one of the area’s most devilish runs is Table Rock to Sassafras Mountain Viewpoint, a 16.7-mile loop gaining nearly 4,800 feet in elevation.

The South Carolina Ultra Marathon Running Club, or SCUM for short, is a masochistic bunch. These men and women take great joy in slogging up some of the Palmetto State’s toughest peaks, if not at a sprint, then at

bursting point-to-point summits six 6,000-foot mountains in just 11.3 miles. The trail begins at Bolens Creek with a four-mile, 3,000-foot ascent to the shoulder of Celo Knob, which “opens to spectacular views of the spine of the Black Mountains.”Aftercatching your breath, you’ll begin a rollercoaster ride of elevation gain and loss. Up and up and up you’ll climb, summiting Winter Star at 6,203 feet, only to dip down to Deep Gap at 5,700 feet. Then, with your quads shivering and your knees begging for mercy, the BMCT demands a final push to the top of Mount Mitchell.

LocatedTrail. within the 968-acre House Mountain Reserve, this walkabout begins with a steep climb up a gravel road. After 0.7 miles, the road turns into a dirt path that traverses boulder fields and untamed meadows.

Length: 10.7 miles round-trip Elevation gain: 3,219 feet Trail type: Out-and-back

When Erin Gifford considers a trail “very, very steep,” you should believe her. As the woman behind GoHikeVirginia. com, Gifford has traveled hundreds of miles through Old Dominion on foot. The toughest trek in her opinion? House Mountain

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 17

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Dolly Sods

Arkaquah Trail at Brasstown Bald Hiawassee, Ga.

ascent to South Carolina’s tallest peak, Sassafras Mountain (elevationDuring3,553). herlast run, Manturuk chose the latter. “There are so many places where you think you’re about at the peak, but then you go around a switchback and there’s more climbing,” she bemoans. “It’s a beautiful trail, though, and the top makes it worth the struggle.”

OF SMOKYMOUNTAINS.COM

PHOTO COURTESY

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 19 THE CLIMB UP ROCKY TOP REWARDS IN LONG-RANGE VIEWS.

Length: 11 miles round-trip Elevation gain: 3,792 feet  Trail type: Out-and-back

If you’re a history buff looking to burn some calories, look no further than Arkaquah Trail in the Chattahoochee National Forest. This 11-mile trek begins not with a spirit-squashing climb but rather with a leisurely descent through rhododendron thickets. After losing well over 2,000 feet in elevation, you’ll arrive at Trackrock Gap, the site of ancient Native American petroglyphs thought to be carved by Cherokee hunters in 8,000 B.C.

Of course, if the history of this special place doesn’t get your heart thumping, the hike back will. “From the gap, the Arkaquah Trail makes an unrelenting climb straight up Brasstown's lower elevations,” says Eric Champlin, co-owner of Trailful Outdoor Co., a hiking outfitter in Hiawassee.

According to Champlin, the footpath gains 1,300 feet in the first 1.5 miles. Worse yet, “switchbacks are few and far between.”

Pick up the pace and explore Frederick County on two wheels. Glide along country roads through picturesque covered bridges or hit the mountain bike trails in State and local parks. Cool off with a craft beverage at dozens of breweries. Our terrain offers routes and trails for every rider. visitfrederick.org • 800–999–3613 scenic route TAKE THE

20 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

IT’S EASY TO GET LOST IN THE MOMENT WHEN YOU’RE ON A mountain stream surrounded by the beautiful reds, yellows, and oranges of autumn. But the stunning scenery of the season should also serve as a signal to trout anglers in Appalachia that it’s time to get aggressive. Brown trout are colored up and ornery leading into their fall spawn. There is no better time of year to sling streamers in search of the biggest, meanest brown in the river. Here, experts provide insight into spawning behavior, as well as where and how to find the best bites.

Brown trout are not native to North America. They were brought here from Europe during the mid and late 1800s and have thrived. In the East, they are the dominant predators in many of our cool mountain streams and large dam-controlled rivers. Once they reach a certain size, their diet becomes primarily piscivorous, which means they eat other fish. This makes them an awesome target for fly fishers who enjoy stripping streamers.

In the fall, brown trout begin their spawning behaviors. The females go on the move, looking for good habitat to cut out nests, called redds. Most of the time they push upstream, sometimes out of main rivers and up tributaries.

“If you’re a responsible angler, and you know somewhat what’s going on, you can easily spot the redds and avoid them while you’re wading,” said Habera. “It’s easy enough to learn how to recognize those and stay off them.”

BY NICK CARTER

Good conditions for a redd are a combination of water temperature, high oxygen content, a clean gravel bottom, and adequate flow to keep the nest clear of silt while the eggs incubate. Females seek this out where there is relatively shallow gravel, usually around riffles or accelerated flows toward the tail of a pool. Once a female finds what she is looking for, she constructs a redd by turning on her side and vigorously digging with her tail to cut an indentation in the gravel where she deposits her eggs. Males fertilize the eggs and then the female kicks gravel back on top of them.

Anyone visiting a brown trout fishery in the fall should learn to identify redds to avoid disturbing them. This includes anglers, swimmers, and people throwing balls to dogs. A redd can be identified as an oval area on the streambed that is a lighter color than the surrounding gravel.

Cooling Waters

An Angler’s Guide to Catching Aggressive Fall Brown Trout

which they use in combat with each other.

The spawning process itself can take a few hours or a few days. A female will frequently cut and deposit eggs in several redds. The incubation period for the eggs could be a few weeks to a few months depending on water conditions, according to Jim Habera, a fisheries biologist with the Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency. There is also a period when young egg-sack-dependent brown trout, called alevine, remain in the redd before entering the flow to feed on insects.

The Spawn

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 21

The males also mobilize. They go in search of the same type of habitat and receptive females. They become aggressive, particularly with other male brown trout, in competition for the chance to fertilize eggs. Male browns advertise their suitability as mates with brightening colors that mirror the warm tones of fall. More mature specimens develop an upturned tip of their lower jaw, called a kype,

He also noted a reduction in fishing pressure during the fall months, when the kill-and-grill crowd is more likely to be watching football or sitting in a deer stand.

“The folks that are still out there know what’s goingHaberaon.” did make an exception for sensitive brown trout populations, which might be struggling to become established. He advised anglers to check regulations, because there are fisheries, or portions of them, where fishing is not allowed during the spawning season.

Ethics of Fishing the Spawn

While most everyone agrees that trampling active redds is poor form, there are some conservationminded anglers who argue against fishing during the spawning season all together.

Timing the Action

In a healthy brown trout fishery, Habera said fishing the spawn does not have an impact on the population level. Actively spawning females are not interested in eating, anyway, and in a healthy population there are plenty of males available to fertilize eggs.

From the Mid-Atlantic down through the Southeast, a wide range from mid-September through December encompasses the brown trout spawning period. Action might heat up on a Pennsylvania spring creek far earlier than a north Georgia tailwater, or it might not. It

BIG STREAMER PATTERNS, LIKE THE KELLY GALLOUP ZOO COUGAR IN THIS FISH’S MOUTH, MIMIC LARGE BAITFISH. IT CAN BE THE TICKET TO DRAWING REACTION STRIKES FROM BIG BROWNS. ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

reach October,” he said.

“Fishing pressure goes way down by the time you

Habera said a wide range of habitat types, weather conditions, and other factors make spawning movements highly variable across the region. The process is triggered when the shortening length of days intersects with water temperatures that fall into the midto-high 40s.

streams usually spawn in a window from mid-October through the end of November, while browns in big tailwaters like the South Holston or the Watauga spawn later, in mid-November and December. Even in the same stream or river, individual fish do not spawn all at the same time. There will likely be fish in all stages of the spawn for several weeks or more.

He said wild brown trout in Tennessee mountain

The argument against harassing spawning browns seems logical. The spawn is a stressful time for fish. Even catching browns to release them makes it more difficult for them to reproduce and even to survive.

“It can be a personal choice,” said Habera, when asked about the ethics of fishing the spawn. “If you’re catch-andrelease fishing, I don’t see a problem with it at all.”

On top of this, brown trout become easier targets for anglers in fall. For a couple months leading up to and during the spawn, they are more visible as they move out of their summer lies. They group up to chase each other in the shallows, and the increased aggression of males makes them more susceptible to aggressive angling tactics. These behaviors can make fall fishing a lot ofSo,fun.should we leave our heavy rods in their tubes during some of the best streamer fishing of the year?

Pinpointing the peak of spawning behavior in a particular stream or river can be tricky. Pre-spawn fish are the best targets for anglers because they are geared up, aggressive, and moving but not yet completely focused on doing the deed.

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“The month of October is

Habera said anglers should pay attention to their local fishery reports. He mentioned a particular bridge on the South Holston River in northeast Tennessee where you can stand and actually watch hundreds of brown trout doing their thing on

Coming out of a long hot summer, cooling waters drive increased feeding activity even before brown and brook trout color up for the spawn. Spring-spawning rainbow trout will be rejuvenated, as well. With fewer anglers on the water and fish feeding up ahead of winter’s scarcity of insect life, it’s just a good time to be a fly fisher.

“Being stubborn and persistent,

Alex McCrickard isn’t too concerned with insect life when it comes to fall fly fishing. For him, fall is all about throwing large streamers and attempting to turn the largest brown trout in the river. He is a former fly fishing guide and the current aquatic education coordinator for the Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources. He’s fished all over the region and the world and has a particular passion for targeting pre-spawn brown trout with a bit of a go-big-orgo-home attitude.

prime-time here in Virginia,” he said. “These fish get particularly aggressive before the spawn. The males are putting their spawning suits on. They’re trying to attract the females, and they’ll get territorial as we get closer to the spawn, competing for the right habitat and then the right mate.”

Streamers are also effective for covering lots of water quickly in search of aggressive fish.

THIS BIG BOX OF FUR AND FEATHERS IS AN APPROPRIATE ARSENAL FOR COVERING WATER IN SEARCH OF PRE-SPAWN BROWNS IN A LARGE TAILWATER.

24 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

McCrickard said these larger fish need larger forage items to sustain their size and growth. They are opportunistic and will eat crayfish and large bugs, both aquatic and terrestrial, but mainly their diet consists of fish smaller than they are. That’s exactly what most streamer patterns were designed to mimic.

Brown trout are notoriously cagey, especially the older, larger individuals. These big fish are tough to catch because they are wary and prefer large, infrequent meals in order to maximize calories while expending as little energy as possible. While smaller rainbows and browns eke out a living sipping tiny bugs from the flow, a big brown is not likely to even acknowledge a small insect, or your nymph or dry fly.

depends on actual water conditions, not the date on a calendar.

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Slinging Meat

a shallow gravel bar. While this kind of obvious indication isn’t possible on most fisheries, anglers can expect brown trout to become more aggressive with the passage of each cold front of fall.

This feeding preference combined with the aggression of the pre-spawn increases the likelihood a big brown will swat your streamer. Lust and jealousy have a way of diluting inhibitions for males of many species. This includes brown trout. When a brown trout is swimming around itching for a fight, it is already cocked to lash out at whatever catches its eye.

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 25

“You’regrounds.targeting habitat where you would find a big fish, where they can exert as little energy as possible to get as much food as possible,” he said.

The style of fishing requires the angler to have an attitude that’s different from patiently picking apart a run with drag-free drifts of a nymph or dry fly. McCrickard said anglers must be willing to trade more consistent action in hopes of drawing just a handful of strikes in a day. The payoff is the potential to tie into a very large trout.

“So… log jams, woody debris, drop-offs, shelves, big boulders that’ll cut the current down where you’ve got some depth, deep pools, riffles, those are all areas to prospect for larger fish.”

With the limited depth of these streams, floating line is usually sufficient, but you’ll want a fly with some weight and a nine-foot leader that allows your streamer to get down in the water column. You’ll also want to fish heavier leaders and tippets than you would with

Before and during the spawn, McCrickard targets likely big-fish habitat close to spawning areas. He prefers to give active spawners some space but has no qualms fishing to browns that are staged up off the spawning

This is especially true on smaller waters that are well known for producing large brown trout. McCrickard mentioned the South Fork Holston in southwest Virginia as a place where anglers gear up and fish very large streamers on a relatively small river. The Chattooga River on the Georgia/South Carolina border is another example of a smaller flow where persistently chucking large streamers can result in brown trout longer than 20 inches. Interestingly, Chattooga browns seem to prefer big streamers in colors that resemble young brown trout.

The Biggest Brown in the Creek

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26 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

In terms of fly selection, it’s tough to nail down a pattern when you’re fishing for just a few bites over the course of a day. It’s a good idea to match the available forage in a stream and remember that you’re also trying to take advantage of a fish’s natural aggression. McCrickard said you could fish a size 6 to 8 Woolly Bugger but depending on the stream this might not be enough to draw the ire of the largest fish in the creek. Even a 12-inch brown will occasionally take a swipe at a two- or three-inch articulated streamer. If you’re swinging for the fences, you might as well go big.

“It can be a reaction strike. These fish are territorial, and they’re chasing down smaller forage fish,” he said. “They’re not inspecting a dry fly floating on a flat pool trying to decide whether to eat or not. These fish just make a decision and go for it.”

McCrickard suggested carrying a heavy 5-weight or 6-weight rod on mountain streams and mediumsized freestones where you’d normally fish a 4-weight with a dry fly or a nymph. The heavier rod is good for battling heavier fish, and it also makes slinging streamers a lot more manageable.

dries or nymphs. Even on smaller streams, McCrickard doesn’t tie on streamers with anything less than 2x tippet. Most of the time he’s tapering down to 1x or 0x because the fish aren’t looking at the line, anyway.

and putting time on the water is the only way you’ll be successful with a big fall brown,” McCrickard said. “You want to put the fly in front of a lot of different fish.”

Large is relative. Big tailwaters have the size and nutrient load to grow giant brown trout two feet and longer, while a 14-inch fish might be a true trophy on some of the smaller high-elevation streams and rivers of the East. Gear selection should be tailored to fit the situation, and this always means going heavier when you’re fishing streamers.

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McCrickard steps it up to a 9- or 10-foot 7-weight rod with a 250-grain full sinking line when he’s fishing tailwaters like Virginia’s Jackson River, Maryland’s North Branch of the Potomac or the South Holston in Tennessee. North Carolina’s Nantahala River tailrace and the Toccoa River in Georgia are a couple more fisheries worth mentioning when it comes to gearing up to target outsized brown trout.

system approaching.

In terms of forage, big tailwater browns might feed primarily on shad or they might be eating perch or other trout. On rivers like the White River in Arkansas or the Chattahoochee north of Atlanta, anglers occasionally are stunned when 30-inch monsters rise from the depths to rip nine-inch stocked trout off their nymph rigs. Again, size is relative and browns are at their most aggressive this time of year.

More to Consider

“A productive day is relative. When you’re throwing a 10-foot 7-weight and a 250-grain full sinking line with 3 feet of 20-lb. monofilament, you’re not really going for numbers anymore,” said McCrickard. “You’re looking for one, maybe two fish. You kind of have to go out there with the mentality of, ‘I might get skunked today, but I might catch my best fish of the year… or the best fish I’ve caught in the last five years.'”

Everything ramps up a notch when you’re floating a big tailwater river. A 20-inch brown is an awesome fish on any river, but they grow much larger where conditions allow. If your goal is to catch a fish measured in pounds rather than inches, you should probably offer it some serious meat.

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Studies have shown that brown trout are partially nocturnal. They are more active in the low light of early mornings and late evenings. This low-light bite can go on all day when it’s cloudy and there’s a weather

Finally, even though brown trout might be more prone to eat a streamer this time of year, the larger, older individuals are still extremely wary fish. If you want to catch one, you should commit to stripping streamers and stick with it.

Nick Carter is author of “Flyfisher’s Guide to North Carolina & Georgia.” It is available on Amazon or by contacting the author at nsc8957@gmail.com.

“If I’m fishing those bigger waters, I like throwing larger articulated flies,” McCrickard said. “I like the flies developed by Western fly tyers like Kelly Galloup and Charlie Craven, flies with deer hair heads, spun wool heads, multiple hooks and lots of flash. Big flies in that 5- to 6-inch range are going to push a lot of water and get the attention of the bigger fish.”

Tailwater Monsters

“It can be really good on cloudy, drizzly, rainy days,” McCrickard said. “Basically, low pressure systems can really turn the bite on, particularly if you have rain that’s starting to put a little dinge in the water clarity. Those conditions can align and really be to your benefit.”

28 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

“If I have that fish that’s two feet or larger, I’m feeling really confident having that fish on 20-lb. as opposed to having it on 2x,” he said.

for a long leader. The weight of the fly line pulls the fly down, and fish that eat 6-inch streamers are not line shy. McCrickard goes with a 3-foot section of 0x tippet, which has a breaking strength of about 15 pounds. If the water has a little stain, he’ll fish a 3-foot leader of straight 20-pound-test mono.

With sinking line, or a sinking tip, there’s no need

Water clarity should also inform your fly selection. The rule of thumb in all fishing is to fish darker colors in dirty water and lighter colors in clear water. McCrickard prefers dark olive or black color combinations for the contrast they present in dingy water. More natural, lighter colors with some flash to reflect sunlight like fish scales are a good idea when the water is clear.

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Cranberry Glades

Rolling On The Rivers

A 200-mile route along the lower portion of the brown water Roanoke River and its tributaries, the Roanoke River Paddle Trail showcases an ecologically and historically rich corner of eastern North Carolina. An Underground Railroad Network to Freedom site since 2008, the Roanoke River was a vital link in North Carolina’s maritime Underground Railroad, and today, the paddling trail still connects colonial towns like Edenton, Williamston, and Plymouth.

32 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

PHOTO BY MALEE OOT

Roanoke River Paddle Trail, North Carolina

PHILPOTT LAKE, NEAR DEER ISLAND.

BY MALEE OOT

THE SOUTHEAST HOLDS SOME OF THE OLDEST and most biodiverse rivers on the planet. Home to everything from marshy coastal creeks to rapid-rippled mountain streams to slow-rolling blackwater rivers, the region is also especially rich in aquatic life, holding more than half the freshwater fish species found in the United States, and more amphibians than any other corner of the country. This means plentiful options for on-the-water adventures. For paddlers keen to embark on a multi-day float, here’s a sampling of some of the Southeast’s wildest water trails.

The lower portion of Roanoke River also snakes through the largest intact expanse of flooded bottomland forest remaining in the Mid-Atlantic, a swath of habitat recognized as a Globally Important Bird Area frequented by more than 200 species, including migratory birds seasonally commuting between North American and warmer tropical climes. For paddlers and visiting bird nerds, the nonprofit Roanoke River Partners manages 18 different camping spots scattered along the paddling trail, from remote tent pads to vehicle-accessible campsites, fully screened to protect against irksome insects. For beginners, the raised camping platforms

Best paddling trails in the Southeast

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 33 YOURGUIDEWAY.

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34 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

The longest river flowing entirely within the state of Maryland, the Patuxent River meanders through wildlife sanctuaries, natural areas, waterside parks, and a handful of historic sites, including the Calvert Historical and Archaeological Park, preserving more than 8,000 years of regional history, dating back to the Archaic Period. Declared one of Maryland’s Scenic Rivers in 1968, today the waterway is also traversed by the Patuxent Water Trail, a 100-mile blueway snaking through seven counties in southern Maryland, from the lushly forested Triadelphia Reservoir to Solomon’s Island. In Prince George’s County, the water trail also meanders through the Jug Bay Natural Area, a hotspot for regional birdlife with more than 300 species recorded, including bald eagles, osprey, and great blue herons. With eight different paddle-up camping areas, the route is ideal for weekend getaways or extended expeditions.

Edisto Canoe & Kayak Trail, South Carolina

The longest free-flowing blackwater river in the United States, the tannin-tinted Edisto River is a birder’s paradise. Situated along the Atlantic Flyway, the waterway provides vital habitat for threatened species like bald eagles, wood storks, and red-cockaded woodpeckers, along with more than 200 species of freshwater and saltwater fish. For paddlers, the Edisto River Canoe & Kayak Trail traverses a 62-mile stretch of the river’s main steam, connecting two state parks and weaving through birding hotspots like the National Audubon Society’s Francis Beidler Forest, home to the largest

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Patuxent Water Trail, Maryland

at John’s Island overlooking Pembroke Creek are only a 30-minute paddle from downtown Edenton.

AN OSPREY (LEFT) ON THE PATUXENT WATER TRAIL. PHOTOS BY MALEE OOT

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 35

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Youghiogheny River Water Trail, Pennsylvania

A FLOAT TRIP ON THE YOUGHIOGHENY RIVER. PHOTO BY MALEE OOT

ELEVATED BY NATURE

graysoncountyva.com

The Youghiogheny River is legendary for churning whitewater. But the rapidriddled waterway is also ideal for more extended float trips, courtesy of the Youghiogheny River Water Trail. Extending nearly 75 miles from Confluence to McKeesport, the blueway is a wild tour of Pennsylvania’s Laurel Highlands, sluicing through state game lands and nature reserves, in the shadow of Pennsylvania’s highestDividedpeaks.into four sections, the paddling route offers access to more than a half dozen riverside campgrounds and a handful of waterside inns and guesthouses in towns like Confluence and West Newton. While the Lower Yough is swirled with class III and IV stretches of whitewater, the

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 37

cypress-tupelo swamp on the planet. For multi-day paddles, there are 10 different camping areas dotting the water trail, along with cypress-shaded treehouses complete with hammocks and gas grills available from Carolina Heritage Outfitters. Camper cabins are available at Colleton State Park and Givhans Ferry State Park.

Grayson County, Virginia

calmer Middle Yough only requires navigating class I and II rapids – and features 11 miles of trophy trout waters, with a reputation for harboring burly rainbow and brown trout. For multisport adventures, the paddling route also parallels the Great Allegheny Passage, a 150-mile rail-trail stretching from urban Pittsburgh to Cumberland, Maryland. In Confluence, where the Casselman River and Laurel Hill Creek spill into the Yough, Ohiopyle State Park offers tent sites, yurts, and cabins, as well as 75 miles of hiking trails.

Extending from the headwaters of the French Broad River near the town of Rosman, N.C., to Douglas Lake in Tennessee, the French Broad River Paddle Trail offers an intimate tour of one of the planet’s oldest waterways. Totaling more than 115 miles, the recreational blueway threads swaths of the Cherokee National Forest, stringing together outdoorsy towns

French Broad River Paddle Trail, North Carolina

38 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

Treating paddlers to portions of two Virginia Scenic Rivers, the Upper

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Upper James River Water Trail, Virginia

like Asheville, Brevard, and Hot Springs. Overseen by nonprofits MountainTrue and RiverLink, the water trail is designed for overnight expeditions, including 19 riverside campgrounds (all spaced less than 15 miles apart).

PHOTO BY MALEE OOT

In Asheville, the paddling trail meanders through the city’s River Arts District and the Biltmore Estate, the opulent mountain getaway constructed for the Vanderbilt family in the late 1800s. For an overnight getaway, the paddle-up campsite on Firefighter Island is situated adjacent to the massive estate, a seven-mile paddle from Westfeldt Park. And, for a little pampering farther along the blueway in Hot Springs, near the Tennessee border, the Hot Springs Campground is a short walk from the town’s namesake natural springs.

THE WIDE AND SCENIC JAMES RIVER.

If moving water is a little too much,

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 39

Philpott Lake Blueway, Virginia

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James River Water Trail combines stretches of the James and Maury Rivers, rolling by the pastoral Virginia countryside and tracing the edges of the George Washington National Forest. The blueway includes nearly 62 miles on the Upper James River, along with 12 miles on the Maury River just outside Lexington, dishing up experiences for a range of skill levels. For beginners, there are family-friendly stretches of flatwater near Natural Bridge, including the five-mile section between Springwood and Buchanan in Botetourt County. There’s also plenty of technical whitewater, including a rock studded stretch between Glasgow and Snowden. The blueway is also dotted with camping spots, including a half-dozen riverside campgrounds operated by Twin River Outfitters and Wilderness Canoe Company.

BY ROBERT MCGEE

Her pilgrimage spanned almost three decades and far surpassed her original goal of 25,000 miles. When she began walking, the Korean War was in progress and she walked all through the time of the Vietnam War andWhenbeyond.her pilgrimage began, she had taken a vow to “remain a wanderer until mankind has learned the way of peace, walking until given shelter and fasting until given food." And for nearly three decades, she carried no money and lived only on what she was given, sleeping where given shelter, occasionally being locked up for vagrancy—an adversity that didn’t faze her or dampen her immense spirit in the least. On one occasion, she seized the opportunity of being jailed to inspire several wayward cell mates to change their lives.In order for the world to become peaceful, Peace Pilgrim claimed, people must become more peaceful.

Peace Pilgrim was a frequent speaker at churches, universities, and on local and national radio and television programs. She appeared in the same attire each time. Her only possessions were the clothes on her back and the few items she carried in the pockets of her blue tunic which read ‘Peace Pilgrim’ on the front and ‘25,000 miles on foot for peace’ on the back.

From May to October in 1952, Norman hiked 2,000 miles from Georgia to Maine, plus another 500 miles of side-trips. She became the first woman known to walk the entire length of the A.T. in one season, accomplishing her feat with no crew or reinforcements of equipment and supplies.

As Peace Pilgrim put it: “It always comes back to the thing so many of us wish to avoid: working to improve ourselves.”

BEFORE SHE BECAME KNOWN AS PEACE PILGRIM, her name was Mildred Lisette Norman. And 70 summers ago, a walk on the Appalachian Trail changed not just her life, but the lives of countless others she would meet.

On January 1, 1953, the woman who’d grown up on a chicken farm in Egg Harbor City, New Jersey, adopted the name ‘Peace Pilgrim’ and set out from Pasadena, California. Over the next 28 years, she would crisscross the United States on foot, speaking with her fellow human beings about peace.

livelihood by contributing constructively to the society in which you live—everyone should, of course, and in a healthy society everyone would.”

It’s been 70 years since Peace Pilgrim’s epiphany, and the trail she walked is still here, a long, winding wonder of nature that offers people a path to self-discovery.

PHOTO COURTESY OF FRIENDS OF PEACE PILGRIM

people want, at the same time, peace and the things which make war. However, people can mature just as children grow up. Our institutions and leaders reflect our immaturity, but as we mature we will elect better leaders and set up better institutions."

Peace Pilgrim was on her seventh cross-country journey when she died in an automobile accident on July 7, 1981, while being driven to a speaking engagement near Knox, Indiana.

In the years since, her words, deeds, and selfless legacy have lived on, specifically through the nonprofit Friends of Peace Pilgrim, which hosts events to celebrate her Everythinglife.Peace Pilgrim did and all that she became seemed to have incubated during her months on the Appalachian Trail.

“Among mature people war would not be a problem – it would be impossible. In their immaturity

“In the spring and summer when the days are long,” she went on, “how good it is to get up with the sun and go to bed with the sun. How good it is to work in the invigorating fresh air under the life-giving sun amid the inspiring beauty of nature. How good it is to earn your

Through small steps and years of endurance she continued to spread her message—walking and talking to bring about peace.

40 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

The legacy of a 70-year-old thru-hike, which turned into a lifelong journey to make the world better

According to the posthumously published book, Her Life and Work in Her Own Words, the A.T.’s first flipflop thru-hiker lived out-of-doors completely, supplied with only one pair of slacks and shorts, one blouse and sweater, a lightweight blanket, and two double plastic sheets, into which she sometimes stuffed leaves. “I was not always dry and warm,” she said, “but I enjoyed it thoroughly.”Forbreakfast each day she had two cups of uncooked oatmeal soaked in water and flavored with brown sugar; at noon two cups of double strength dried milk, plus any berries, nuts, or greens she could find in the woods. “I thought of my fellow human beings eating various kinds of processed and flavored foods, and I realized that if I could choose my breakfast from all the foods in the world, I could not make a better choice than blueberries covered with dew."

What does TrailAppalachiantheHavetodowithPeace?

The inspiration from Norman’s time on the A.T. endured. Soon after completing her thru-hike, she put her feet in motion to back up these words.

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It was an undertaking that aligns well with the couple’sJoshuatalents.spent his teenage years exploring the Appalachian Trail with his friends. He says spending long periods of time in the forest got him out of a “messed up period in life.” In 2012 he graduated from Savannah College of Art and Design with a degree in

new book, Discovering the Appalachian Trail, is about the footpath that has defined them.

For starters, they both thru-hiked the 2,194-mile footpath, Joshua in 2013 and Amber in 2014. They met in 2015 at the Appalachian Trail Days Festival in Damascus, Va., an annual gathering that celebrates thru-hiker culture and the trail itself. Joshua and Amber were vendors at trail days, and they connected over their shared commitment to creativity and their love of the Today,trail. married with two young kids, they can see the Appalachian Trail from their homestead in western North Carolina. “Our lives have aligned with the trail,” says Joshua. “It’s been a constant thread.”

THE FIRST THING TO KNOW ABOUT JOSHUA AND Amber Niven is that their lives have been wholly shaped by the Appalachian Trail.

A.T. Stories

The book hit shelves in June and was published by Falcon, an outfit traditionally known for its guidebooks. But Joshua contends that Discovering the Appalachian Trail isn’t a guidebook at all. Instead, it focuses on the stories that unfold on and because of the trail. “We wanted to create an artistic expression of the entire A.T.,” he explains.

photography. His 2013 thru-hike was a part of his thesis and resulted in a coffee table art book.

“We always had it in the back of our brain that if we ever got the opportunity we could take my photography and her writing and do something with it,” JoshWhenexplains.that opportunity came, Joshua and Amber knew they wanted their book to be more than a step-

We wanted to create an artistic expression of the entire Appalachain Trail.”“

It only makes sense, then, that their co-authored

In a new book, North Carolina authors offer unique perspective on ‘The People’s Trail’

Amber grew up in the heart of the Great Smoky Mountains and spent much of her youth hiking with her dad, a scoutmaster. She began her southbound hike with her father and brother, walking 1,400 miles south from Mount Katahdin in Maine to Virginia before a medical issue forced her from the trail. A writer and lifelong journal keeper, Amber meticulously documented her 2014 hike.

42 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

BY KIM DINAN

In addition to the you-won’t-hear-this-anywhereelse stories, the book also includes information about A.T. culture and the mountain towns hikers pass through along the way. The decision to focus not just on the hike but on the entire A.T. experience was important to the couple. “There’s so much more that’s going on during a thru-hike that doesn’t have anything to do with being in nature,” says Joshua. “We wanted those things to show up in the book too.”

The book explains the history and the legend of the A.T. and tells the stories of the people who created the trail and those who first walked it. It also features the stories of modern day thru-hikers. “The stories are pretty unique,” Joshua says.

JOSHUA AND AMBER NIVEN WITH THEIR CHILDREN. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE NIVEN FAMILY

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 43

11+ miles of trails gently curling through the lush Great Smokies forest, opening up to views that have been dropping jaws for 12,000 years. Turn up the temperature on your next adventure. Hike Fire Mountain: VisitCherokeeNC.com VisitCherokeeNC.com VisitCherokeeNC.com

Amber says they feature a wide range of hikes to ensure that they are accessible to people of differing abilities.Inthe end, the couple wanted to create a book that, like the Appalachian Trail itself, is about the people and for the people. “You can discover the trail in a bunch of different ways,” says Amber. “You can discover it at any point in life. You can enjoy the trail from the car or in its entirety with a backpack on,” she says. “I’m not sure of another thing in our country that has as much to offer as the Appalachian Trail.”

by-step guide to hiking the trail. Drawing from their thru-hiking experiences, they created a collection of hikes, stories, and tidbits that capture the spirit of the world’s longest hiking-only footpath.

A.T. is but I don’t know if they know what the intention of the trail was. It was about bringing people together.”

But in order to collect the information and photos for those armchair thru-hikers to enjoy, Amber and Joshua had to get their boots dirty. They purchased a camper and set out to explore the trail once again, this time while carrying their kids in Osprey backpacks. Embarking on A.T. day hikes, they filled in the gaps in their memory, took updated photos, and jotted down notes. In all, it took the couple three years to write Discovering the Appalachian Trail.

Joshua and Amber also included popular hikes— with at-a-glance specs, a detailed description with miles and directional cues, and a difficulty rating— campsites, maps, and elevation profiles.

“If somebody has already hiked the trail and they want to show others what the trail is about, or if someone wants to experience the best of what the trail has to offer, that’s what this book will do,” Joshua says. “It’s an armchair thru-hike.”

The book is organized in sequential order from the southern terminus of the trail at Springer Mountain in Georgia to the northern terminus at Maine’s Mt. Katahdin, so that readers can experience the trail in its entirety. Visually stunning, it’s filled with full color photographs taken by Joshua, “in order to give readers a visceral experience,” he says.

But the thing that makes Discovering the Appalachian Trail stand out is that it features the stories of the people who shaped the trail and whose lives have been shaped by it — including Joshua and Amber’s own lives. “The Appalachian Trail is the people’s trail,” says Joshua. “Everyone knows what the

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Human Powered Movement was born in 2020; Bratton launched it with a challenge to complete an off-road Ironman triathlon over the course of 10 days. Since then, Bratton and Human Powered Movement have created unique, raw, authentic challenges and events. Some are in-person contests, while others are virtual challenges. All Human Powered Movement events and challenges benefit local nonprofits and give back to communities.RecentHuman Powered Movement challenges include Move Your Age (run, hike, paddle, or bike a distance equal to your age), A Mile an Hour (run a mile every hour for 6, 12, or 24 hours), and Find Your Summit (hike, bike, run, or climb total elevation equal to Everest, Mount Whitney, or Mount Mitchell).

LOOKING FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT THAN THE usual events on the race calendar? Adam Bratton’s Human Powered Movement has a challenge or event that will inspire you to push your limits. Perhaps it’s the Rocky River Shiver—a raw, hellacious 43-mile mountain bike beatdown with homebrewed beer, unapologetic hecklers, and a 50-percent fail rate. Or maybe it’s Psychoactive—a last-runner-standing trail race. Human Powered Movement makes racing fun again.

Do you complete all the challenges yourself?

Bratton certainly has the chops to tackle wild new adventures. He has run a half-marathon in every state, paddled the entire Wateree River, biked the entire Natchez Trace Parkway, and biked across Cuba. He also managed events at the U.S. Whitewater Center

Human Powered Movement dares you to tackle creative new adventures

that are exclusively focused on awareness. Our South Fork Sampler Multisport event raised $2,500 for the Catawba Riverkeeper. It all comes down being more intentional with our daily habits—because it all adds up. Climate change didn't happen overnight, and the solution won't come overnight either. Fast Fashion—buying new clothes each new season and then dumping the "old" clothes into the landfill—is a killer, which is why we pay a few more dollars per shirt for 100-percent recycled shirts from Recover. We try to source all of our merch as locally and sustainably as possible. It may not be the cheapest, easier, or most convenient way to approach things, but it's the right way to do it. We love to run, bike, paddle, and play in our natural environment. We need to make sure we are being intentional how we interact with that environment and what we are doing to maintain it.

For sure. We have events like Plastic-Free February

Human Powered Movement seems to be intentional about bringing a deep envi ronmental conscience into adventure.

“I quickly realized that I could have a positive impact on people’s health by encouraging more activity in their lives.”

Inspiration Perspiration+

ADAM BRATTON STARTED THE UNIQUE CHALLENGES OF HUMAN POWERED MOVEMENT IN 2020. PHOTOS COURTESY OF HPM

Like many things, this story starts with COVID. After a few months of lockdown, Bratton needed to get out of the house, so he decided to bike every single street of his hometown of Huntersville, N.C. He posted his progress on social media, and to his surprise, it inspired a lot of other folks to run or bike all of their hometown streets.

BY WILL HARLAN

I've joyfully and personally completed every single challenge that Human Powered Movement has put out there. They are great ways to break up the typical routine and test yourself in new ways. It also doesn't hurt that each of the events are free to participate, and we give out a ton of raffle prizes, swag, and merch to people just for getting active. Virtual challenges enable us to connect with people wherever they are and reduce the barriers to entry. We are based in the

What makes Human Powered Movement’s challenges and events different?

For example, our Rocky River Shiver mountain bike event takes place on extremely technical singletrack in the middle of the summer. All finishers, regardless of place, receive a cash payout. This is where the mental game comes in: do I go out for another lap even though I am beat down, tired and ready for a beer? It's both interesting and powerful to see how people respond. Our last-runner-standing Psychoactive course literally runs through wildflower and hemp fields at an active locally owned family farm. It’s not your standard race.

for eight years, so he has managed and participated in thousands of events. Bratton also hosts the Be the Impact podcast, which highlights outdoor adventure and sustainable business leaders across the Southeast andInbeyond.between epic adventures in the Arctic and Appalachia, Bratton shared some of the behind-thescenes insights and inspiration of Human Powered Movement.

When creating events for Human Powered Movement, I didn't want to just replicate a traditional event. I wanted to bring together the physical and mental aspects and make the experience as authentic and meaningful as possible. This might mean that the Human Powered Movement’s events aren't for the masses— there are thousands of fundraising 5ks out there, which is great—but it does mean that the events we produce are immensely impactful for those that participate.

What has been your most memo rable moment out in the woods or on an adventure?

Bikepacking 800 miles across Cuba in 2016. This was a trajectory changing experience for me both physically and mentally. There were some amazingly high times and equally demoralizing down times on that trip, but I learned lifelong lessons of how to find comfort in the uncomfortable in both the mental and physical state. This has propelled me to seek out other multi-day ventures like biking the Blue Ridge Parkway and bikepacking the Huracan 300Theroute.thirst for these experiences is neverending. I've done the standard stuff for so long that I am now driven by new experiences that don't have the set framework of a typical start line, follow the arrows until you hit the finish line, and get your race medal and banana. I'm adventure curious.

46 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

shop.blueridgeoutdoors.comyear!Summitstorethe

Charlotte, N.C., area, but Human Powered Movement challenges are universal and accessible to anyone, anywhere. Over a quarter of our participants are from across the country, and another five percent are international.

Don’t miss another issue this

The Hiking Adventure Guide

Whenfriends.itcomes to deciding where to plan your next trip, you can’t beat the trails, views, and adventures of Virginia’s Blue Ridge.

When you are traveling, do you prefer to stay close to the action? Explore Park, Jamison Mill Park, and Middle Creek Campground have you covered with yurts, cabins, and campsites galore, all within short walking or driving distances to trails, ziplines, boat launches, and more. Plus, you will be close enough o to head into town, kick back, and relax with a beer from one of the local breweries. At Big Lick Brewing Company, Parkway Brewing Company, and Twin Creek Creeks Brewing Company, you’ll find refreshing craft brews and warm, inviting people who quickly feel like old

For other fun trails, go for a scenic drive along the Blue Ridge Parkway and hike out to some truly remarkable places. Stand below the towering Apple Orchard Falls or wander through the woods along the Chestnut Ridge Trail and Rock Creek Gorge. The Peaks of Otter area offers a variety of options, from strenuous climbs up Sharp Top and Flat Top to a scenic loop around Abbott Lake.

Just minutes from downtown Roanoke, hike up the Mill Mountain Star Trail to the iconic Roanoke Star for views of the surrounding mountains, valley, and downtown skyline. Then head out onto one of the beautiful waterfall hikes in the area, like Roaring Run Falls, Bottom Creek Gorge, or Stiles Falls, for lunch or a snack by theThewater.

Photo courtesy of Visit VBR

Roanoke Star in Mill Mountain Park | Photo courtesy of Creative Dog Media – Visit VBR

Virginia Triple Crown is a must-see while you are in the area. Hop on the A.T. to Dragon’s Tooth, McAfee Knob, and Tinker Cliffs for three of the most recognizable viewpoints in Virginia. The trio features some of the best spots for challenging hikes with views of the changing leaves. Take advantage of the new McAfee Knob Shuttle, departing every half-hour on weekends, making it easier to enjoy the trail without worrying about finding a parking spot.

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 47

When it comes to hiking in the Southeast, there is no better time to take to the trails than in the fall. From the delightful temperatures to the symphony of autumn colors that fills the entire landscape, hikers of all levels have nothing but great choices to make and great experiences to enjoy.

Looking for the perfect gear for your hiking adventure? You’ll find it at Roanoke Mountain Adventures, a full-service outfitter and outdoor consignment shop.

With over 700 miles of hiking trails, including 240 miles of the Appalachian Trail, you can’t go wrong with your choice in Virginia’s Blue Ridge. From the urban hikes in Roanoke, the largest city along the A.T., to remote locations in the surrounding counties, discover the best of what the area has to offer. Visit Virginia Blue Ridge is an official Leave No Trace Community Partner and requests that you recreate responsibly and leave a minimal impact when visiting the area by staying on designated trails and packing out all trash.

visitvbr.com

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Take a Hike in Virginia’s Blue Ridge

every opportunity to rest and recharge. The Amicalola Falls Lodge, the perfect place for comfort, rejuvenation, and adventure, Georgia style! With stunning views from nearly every room and breathtaking vistas and sunsets awaiting you each day, this is a place has all the ingredients to turn any visit into an unforgettable experience. The Len Foote Hike Inn, accessible only by hiking the 5-mile Hike Inn Trail, is a year-round eco-friendly inn that is the Peach State’s only backcounty lodge and one of the most memorable overnight experiences. Featuring 20 private guest rooms, hot showers, fresh linens and home-cooked meals, this is the perfect place to kick up your feet for a night (or more) before hitting the trail again.

destinationdawsonville.com

A great place to start is Amicalola Falls State Park & Lodge, located just northeast of Dawsonville on the cusp of the North Georgia Mountains and the southernmost point of the Appalachian Trail. It won’t take long for you to understand why this is known as one of the seven natural wonders of Georgia; the 729-foot Amicalola Falls. It’s the state’s tallest cascading waterfall and the third-tallest east of the Mississippi River, spilling down a towering bluff and into a mossy, boulder-forest. The waterfall is located just 7.5 miles from the southern end of the Appalachian Trail at Springer Mountain, upon whose summit thru hikers embark on their epic northward journeys toward their ultimate destination in Maine.

Len Foote Hike Inn Dawsonville

Looking to go beyond the trails? Dawsonville has an abundance of autumn treats to share. For instance, Burt’s Pumpkin Farm is filled with a brilliant sea of orange created by thousands of pumpkins. The seasonal stars of the show range from pumpkins weighing less than a pound to those clocking in at more than 150 lbs. Family fun abounds with hayrides, storytelling pumpkins and even some who bust out in song. Just south of Burt’s you’ll find Fausett Farms Sunflowers. Family-owned since 1868, the farm’s 30 acres packed with more than a million gorgeous sunflowers that transform the autumn landscape and make for an unforgettable visit, not to mention a photo backdrop to die for!

At Amicalola Falls State Park & Lodge, the experience is about the journey and the destination, as there are two of Georgia’s most unique lodging opportunities that provide

There is no better way to escape city life for an adventure than with a visit to Dawsonville, Georgia. Located just an hour from Atlanta, Dawsonville is perfectly positioned between Lake Lanier and the Chattahoochee National Forest, offering a wide range of sights and experiences tailor made for every kind of outdoor enthusiast.

48 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

Escape City Life in Dawson County, Ga.

The 829-acre park features ten trails in all, including the AT Approach Trail, an eight-mile trek that will carry you to the gateway to AT adventures. The Amicalola Loop Trail offers a scenic trip around the park offering a range of spectacular views, leading you alongside the magnificent falls.

Frederick’s Catoctin Mountain Park trails test and reward every level of hiker with a wonderful experience and some of the region’s most beautiful vistas. A can’t miss for serious hikers, Chimney Rock is a loop trail that contains some of the park’s most strenuous sections of trail. You can expect uneven and rocky terrain starting with the river valley areas near the Visitor Center and Park Headquarters all the way up until you reach 600 feet in elevation where you will be able to take in the spectacular Chimney Rock and Wolf Rock formations. Cunningham Falls State Park features 25 miles of trails including Lower Cliffs, which offers a memorable payoff in the form of the 78-foot Cunningham Falls, Maryland’s highest cascading waterfall. Another highlight is the Catoctin Furnace Trail, a plus for history lovers that takes hikers past the ruins of an iron furnace operation that originally went into blast at the start of the American Revolution. Frederick County is also home to 15.7 of The Chesapeake & Ohio National Historical Park’s 184.5 miles and features a level hike along the canal’s old towpath with picturesque views of the adjacent Potomac River on land that was once home to native Indian tribes including the Tuscarora and the Piscataway.

C&O Canal Towpath Hike - C. Kurt Holter

Here are some other options to see fall foliage in the Bristol region: a walk or biking venture along the Virginia Creeper Trail, and if you love music and beauty - you might also want to take a drive along the Crooked Road Music Trail. The trail winds through Southwest Virginia and takes drivers through nearly 300 miles of scenic countryside that is ablaze with color during autumn.

South Holston Lake. photo credit Jared Kreiss

Steele Creek Park, which encompasses more than 2,200 acres, is Tennessee’s third-largest municipal park – and it takes autumn awesomeness to an all-new level once the leaves start changing color. The picturesque park includes a 52-acre lake surrounded by knobs and hills that turn into an artist’s palette of color each fall. You can enjoy the autumn scenery while kayaking, canoeing, fishing, or hiking the more than 24 miles of trails around the park.

Frederick County, Md.

vsitfrederick.org

The Best Places to “FALL” in Love in Bristol, Tn. & Va.

The Mendota Trail, a 12.5-mile hiking and biking recreational corridor, spans tranquil countryside and forests, making it an excellent location to enjoy autumn’s vibrant colors. One of the prettiest spots along the trail features a beautiful trestle known as “Abrams Creek Crossing.” When fall’s colors are at their peak, this area makes for some gorgeous photos!

Franklin Freewheelers

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 49

Beautiful Hiking Trails

Bristol, Tn/Va and the surrounding region is known as one of the prettiest places for fall foliage, and it starts with South Holston Lake, where you’ll find the surrounding mountain vistas exploding with bright orange, red, and yellow hues when the temperatures start to cool and autumn is in the air. The setting around the lake, which sits in Tennessee and Virginia, is phenomenal any time of the year, but when October rolls around, there’s nothing like the scenery.

Steele Creek Park. photo credit Earl Neikirk

The 400-acre Sugar Hollow Park also offers incredible fall foliage views. Whether you’re biking, hiking, or camping, the park offers a gorgeous setting for leaf lookers, who can also enjoy disc golf while taking in the gorgeous sights.

explorebristol.com

Chimney Rock Hike - Postern

Fly fishing lovers can get all geared up at the Chattooga River Fly Shop (chattoogariverflyshop.com), which offers full and half-day guided fly-fishing wade trips, rods, reels, waders, vests, a huge variety of flies, and a comprehensive knowledge of the best local spots.

Lake Hartwell Country’s Perfect Autumn Day Hiking Trails lakehartwellcountry.com

Our breathtaking burst of fall colors lasts well into November. Each trail has its own seasonal palette, from the bright yellows of hickory, beech and tulip poplars to the bold reds and oranges of maples to the deep reds and browns of oaks and much more.

Those looking to challenge themselves can try Table Rock Trail in Pickens County’s Table Rock State Park. One of the best-known hikes in South Carolina, it is a strenuous 3.5 miles to the summit of Table Rock Mountain, but the foliage views are more than worth it! More challenges and breathtaking views await at the 4.2-mile Pinnacle Mountain Trail. Looking for more family-friendly trails? Try the state park’s Lakeside and Carrick Creek trails, each with two miles of picturesque forest and mountain scenery.

waterfalls.

One of the most exhilarating outdoor activities in Lake Hartwell Country is taking a hike on a perfect autumn day in Anderson, Oconee, and Pickens Counties.

Add first-rate trout fishing to your hiking adventures with a stop on the Chattooga River in Oconnee County, easily accessed along the Hatchery Trail, which begins at the Walhalla State Fish Hatchery, a must-stop for fishing enthusiasts.

These are just a few of the abundant hiking opportunities available throughout Lake Hartwell Country. To see a more comprehensive list and a map with locations, click on “Hiking” under the Outdoor section of our website. Remember to be courteous to others, and to wildlife. Always carry enough water, and travel with others. Take only pictures and leave only footprints! And be sure to keep up with us on Facebook and Instagram. You can also stop by our visitor center in Pendleton!

Pickens County also offers the Natural Bridge Nature Trail at Keowee Toxaway State Park on Residence Drive in Sunset, SC. Considered one of the state’s most colorful fall hiking trails, it’s 1.3 miles of moderate-to-strenuous walking that crosses a natural bridge over Poe Creek. This trail ties into the Raven Rock Trail, a tough 4.4-mile loop through the land where the Cherokee once walked with brooks and small

Oconee State Park is the gateway to several hiking trails among the fall colors. Station Cove Falls Trail, which takes you by the historic Oconee Station, is an easy walkthrough forest that delivers you to a 60-foot waterfall. It’s less than two miles round-trip, and it’s ideal for families with young children. The Foothills Access Trail is 1.2 miles of moderate to strenuous hiking that leads to beautiful views of the Blue Ridge Escarpment, which plunges down into the rolling hills of the Upstate.

Get started in In Anderson County’s, Fant’s Grove Trail System, part of the Clemson Experimental Forest, More than 35 miles of trails, ranging from easy to difficult, wind through this beautiful, wooded area. Most trails are shared by hikers, bikers, and equestrian riders, so stay alert. The Fant’s Grove Lake Trail offers a 9.4-mile moderate trek with lake views, a rock quarry, and wetlands, while Treaty Oak Trail is a pedestrian-only, 1.5 mile pathway, near Lake Hartwell.

50 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

How about some trout fishing with a view in Pickens County? Anglers up for a rugged trail can discover an excellent, and spectacular fall spot by taking the Eastatoe Creek Heritage Preserve, a 2.3-mile hike down to the lower gorge area.

Soon after you hit the ground, you’ll be afforded an unforgettable view of Gray’s Arch Trail, and a gorgeous sampling of fall colors below. The Rough Trail Loop is the perfect spot for the hybrid hiker who likes to mix in a little climbing with their journeys, and those looking to push themselves beyond their comfort zones.

Let’s start in the Roan Highlands, recognized as one of the most scenic regions of the Southern Appalachians and home to the Roan Mountain State Park and its inspiring scenery. Or try the historic Over Mountain Victory Trail, Yellow Mountain, Hump Mountain, Little Hump Mountain and Roan High Bluff

Laurel Fork Falls, likely one of the most popular trails in the county is a delightful 5-mile hike perfect for families, where you can look up to see cliffs and then finish with a refreshing dip at the base of Laurel Folk Falls.

The first challenge you’ll find in hiking Carter County is choosing between all the outstanding options. You’ve got 150 miles of the Appalachian Trail here. Six mountains. Nineteen waterfalls. Seven separate wilderness areas. And the Cherokee National Forest.

danielboonecountry.com

Roan Mountain Overlook

The Eastern Highlands of Kentucky are also known by another name – Daniel Boone Country. In fact, it is rather easy to see how this iconic American figure first fell in love with the region and with Kentucky itself. “Heaven,” he once said, “must be a Kentucky kind of place.”

Challenge Yourself in Carter County, Tn.

An Unforgettable Adventure in Eastern Highlands, Ky.

tourcartercounty.com

Nearly 85 miles of hiking trails await in the famed Cumberland Gap National Park, highlighted by the first great gateway to the west, Cumberland Gap. Follow in the footsteps of Bison, Native Americans, long hunters and pioneers on terrain that carried more than 300,000 across the Appalachians to settle America. Take your pick among experiences that range from easy ¼- mile strolls to much heartier and wilder multi-day adventures in the deeper wilderness. There is no better way to learn about the region’s rich history and seemingly endless natural resources. – not to mention spectacular scenery, wildlife viewing opportunities and more. And you’re not going to want to miss Cumberland Falls, known as the “Niagara of the South.” Measuring at 68-feet tall and 125 feet wide, this is a stunning sight to behold with a formidable roar to match, especially given the fact that it spills 3,600 cubic feet of water over its sandstone edge every single second!

Red River Gorge, or as it is known to many, “The Red,” is known as one of the leading climbing and rappelling destinations in the world, with rugged cliffs, natural bridges and sandstone arches that provide an endlessly fascinating backdrop for any hiking adventure. The Red’s hiking trails feature otherworldly terrain along a vast network of trails that link to some of the longest trail systems in the state.

There are so many more where these came from. Because in Carter County, your dream hike is always just a trail away.

OCTOBER 2022 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 51

Create your own Appalachian Trail adventures by hiking Carvers Gap to Roan High Knob, a moderate 2.0-mile trip featuring the highest shelter on the AT; Carvers Gap to Grassy Ridge is a 5.2-mile round trip that delivers stunning 360-degree views; Watauga Dam is an easy 7-mile trip that affords gorgeous views of the lake and the mountains that surround it.

The terrain you discover today is just as wild and unspoiled as it was in Boone’s day, back in the 1700’s. The frontier spirit lives on in miles and miles of hiking trails that feature an array of experiences from easy to challenging, and just as you would have been back then, you are always a few steps away from breathtaking sights that will live on in your heart as well as your camera roll.

When it comes to hiking, Shenandoah County has it all, from 187 miles of trails throughout the George Washington National Park to spectacular views, abundant natural beauty, gorgeous ponds, rivers and streams, and plenty of wildlife. There is something for every hiking enthusiast here.

52 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

If you’re looking for longer, nature-based hikes, explore over 22 miles of trails within the 3,400-acre American Chestnut Land Trust preserve. Committed to preserving special natural and cultural places for the next generations, the American Chestnut Land Trust offers options for every age and hiking level. Create your own hike between the trails, scale inclines on the North-South Trail or wander between wood line and creek views on the Parkers Creek Trail. Cross Parkers Creek on a pulley-system-powered raft, fun for kids and adults alike! choosecalvert.com

We’ll start with Story Book, a relaxed half-mile trail built for every age and featuring interpretive rocks and signs that tell the history of the region, and a gorgeous fall-colored filled overlook finale. Intermediate hikers can enjoy Wolf Gap Recreation Area you’ll find the beautiful terrain of Big Schloss (4.4 miles), which leads you to a 1,000 footelevated Instagram-worthy rock outcrop for which the trail gets its name “Big Castle” that rewards you with stunning views of the surrounding valleys. Accessed from the same parking lot is the 3-mile Tibbet Knobb, which boasts boasting equally beautiful vistas with approximately 1/10th of the hikers, and featuring two short, steep rock scrambles. Seven Bends State Park in Woodstock serves up 8 miles of hiking and biking trails that take you along the “seven bends” of the North Fork of the Shenandoah River and connect you with the Massanutten Trail in the George Washington-Jefferson National Forest. visitshenandoahcounty.com

Waynesboro, Va. a Gateway to the Shenandoah Valley.

New River Trail is a 57-mile linear park that follows an abandoned railroad bed along the river and is perfect for hikers or all ages and abilities. Rental gear is available in the park. The historic Shot Tower, used more than 200 years ago to make ammunition, is a can’t miss attraction. Big Walker Mountain offers Monster Rock Trail, where you can wind your way toward breathtaking valley views. Crystal Springs Recreation Area features a gorgeous trail system surrounding the town’s historic reservoir, including a recently unveiled 7-mile loop.

Wytheville is an Autumn Hiker’s Paradise

Find Your Own Happy Trails in Shenandoah County

Hiking in Calvert County, Md.

Rock Castle Gorge

Nestled between the southernmost entrance to Shenandoah National Park and the northernmost entrance to the Blue Ridge Parkway is a small mountain town with a big personality. Waynesboro, Va., is known for views of the beautiful Blue Ridge visible from the charming downtown, and pretty much everywhere in the city.

Jefferson Patterson Park features 560 scenic acres along the Patuxent River, more than 65 identified architectural sites and 9,000 years of documented human occupation spread across three trails. The one-mile Riverside Trail shares information about the first archaeological discoveries here. The longer Woodland Trail showcases gorgeous sky and water views through a beautiful tree canopy. The Woodland Indian Village Trail leads you to a recreated Native American village and offers a window into the people who lived in the area prior to colonial contact. The onsite Maryland Archaeological Conservation Laboratory offers indoor tours where you can see some of the 10 million preserved artifacts.

Wytheville, Virginia is the only “Wytheville” in the world, and full of equally unique natural treasures that make the town a true autumn hiker’s paradise.

Make Waynesboro your home base as you explore more than 500 miles of trails in Shenandoah National Park, including Blackrock Summit and Riprap Trail, as well as 50 designated trails along the Blue Ridge Parkway, like Humpback Rocks, as it meanders south through Virginia. Grab a flashlight and make time to walk nearly a mile through the historic Blue Ridge Tunnel, a recently-opened trail celebrating the railroad history of the area. This designated Appalachian Trail Community offers hikers of all skill levels many amenities, including two local outfitters—Rockfish Gap Outfitters and South River Fly Shop—plus eclectic downtown shops and great local restaurants. Spend a cozy night at the Iris Inn or Heritage Hill Bed & Breakfast before doing it all over again the next day. With miles of trails to explore right out the backdoor, it’s no wonder Waynesboro is a top stop for hikers from all around the region. visitwaynesboro.com

Hikers will also find miles of water to be fished, and hundreds of acres of forest for hunting or taking in beautiful scenery. – not to mention bicycling, horseback riding, canoeing, and tubing, Campers have options galore, from primitive sites to some with more comforts included. And if it is comfort you seek, you can also choose from a variety of shortterm rentals, B&B’s and a boutique hotel as well as a range of outstanding dining options and spirit-lifting vineyards and wineries. visitwytheville.com

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PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

BY GRAHAM AVERILL

What lasting imprint would this disaster leave on my children?

Navigating backcountryunexpectedanbare-allencounter

In any other situation, we’d just walk around the scene, ducking into the woods to avoid full frontal, but we were in the heart of the gorge, surrounded by rock and steep slopes on either side. Like a trapped animal, my mind raced trying to find a possible solution. We could turn back and downclimb our way to the entrance trail. I could race ahead and plead with these nymphs to don clothing as our impressionable children hiked by. I could demand the children close their eyes and lead them by the hand past temptation like some backward Old Testament figure. Or maybe the polite thing to do here is to take my own clothes off? So, they don’t feel so Becauseunderdressed.Iwasraised Catholic, I think everything is my fault. The forest fires out west, dips in the Dow, the Russian Olympic cheating scandals…it’s all cosmically tied to my sins somehow. For a while, I was convinced the U.S. invaded Granada because I discovered masturbation. So, I immediately felt

54 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

their tight, denim shorts in situations that would otherwise dictate nudity? What lasting imprint would this disaster leave on my children?Aswenavigated around the pool, I noticed something absolutely wonderful about the women: A few of them were cross stitching. They were sitting on the edge of the water, in the middle of Pisgah National Forest’s remote backcountry, doing needlepoint. Naked. Were they sewing bawdy double entendres in frilly lettering? Something that would look good on a couch pillow, like, “Home is where the bra comes off.” Or maybe they were sewing clothes for themselves? Regardless of what they were crafting, the fact that they were sewing brought some needed levity to the situation, or more accurately, to my interpretation of the situation. My kids weren’t going to become “never nudes.” There would be no uncomfortable conversations about personal preferences of piercing locations. My kids and their friends are probably more mature than I am. They can handle some surprise nudity. Everything would be fine. Immediately, I realized the encounter only made the hike more successful; Call of Duty might be an exciting game, but it doesn’t have a half dozen naked hippies, cross-stitching by the side of a stream.

I SAW THE NAKED WOMEN AS SOON AS I crested the waterfall. Five or six of them, hanging out on a granite ledge perched above a swimming hole, wearing nothing but their birthday suits and the occasional piercing. Typically, this sort of scene wouldn’t bother me. I’ve done my share of streaking and skinny dipping and I’m even a card-carrying member of the Nude Underwater Mountain Bike Association (look it up). As a general rule, I encourage nudity. If you can’t tone it, tan it. But on this particular day, in this particular situation, being confronted by all this free-range skin posed a bit of a conundrum: I was leading a multi-family hike with half a dozen 13-yearold kids, and we were heading straight for some Burning Man hedonism.

The whole idea for the family hike was to drag these young teenagers out of their screen holes and expose them to some natural grandeur. I wanted to take them on a really hard hike, something that was exciting and physically demanding that would, for a few hours at least, rival the TikTok videos and Call of Duty sessions they were accustomed to. I settled on an adventure that would have us scrambling up the heart of Flat Laurel Creek, a pristine trout stream that starts just shy of 6,000 feet and falls off the backside of Sam’s Knob and Black Balsam in a tangle of sheer drops and fast slides. The plan was to hike down Flat Laurel Creek Trail for a few miles then climb our way back up the river, swimming, boulder-hopping, and scrambling up the sides of waterfalls. It’s a fun, warm-weather adventure that would give our kids a taste of canyoneering in the Southern Appalachians but wouldn’t require technical ropes.

being led into a swarm of skin by your father. Worse yet, I had extra kids with me, friends of my own kids that I was supposed to be leading on a wholesome adventure, not into a scenario that would prompt questions about hike-appropriate attire and personal grooming practices.

THE OUT AND BACK NO CLOTHES

guilty about stumbling onto this gaggle of naked ladies, not just guilty about the impression the scene might leave on my kids, but guilty about seeing the nude ladies myself. Like somehow, I planned this encounter. But no amount of Catholic guilt or prudish hang ups could power us around the gaggle of women. The only way to progress was straight through the heart of all that nudity. Into the bush, if you will.

There was a lot of complaining on the hike down the trail, but as soon as we entered the river, the kids got into it, climbing single file up the edge of the first waterfall, then daring each other to plunge into the cold pools. It was all going so well until I saw the naked people. I’m not naïve. My kids have been on the internet once or twice, so I’m sure they’ve seen the naked form before, but there’s a difference between scrolling through images and

NAKED AND AFRAID

I made the kids pause about 50 yards downstream of the naked women to give them a chance to cover up if they wanted to. They didn’t. So, we forged ahead, climbing into the naked pool and trying to find the easiest and safest route around all that flesh. We didn’t want to be rude, so we said “hello,” and I did my best to make and maintain eye contact for a few seconds and then spent the next couple of minutes staring at the top of my feet and wondering if my kids could pick up on my discomfort. Was I transmitting my hang-ups directly to them in this moment? Would they have a weird association with skinny dipping from this point on? Would they become “never nudes,” clinging to

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Cooler temperatures and thinner crowds—not to mention crisp air and gorgeous foliage— make fall the ideal time to go backpacking. Here’s the gear to get it done.

Our standby shoe for backpacking or big trail adventures provides all the support you need when you are schlepping a big load but (even straight out of the box)

Oboz

Para’kito Mosquito Repellent Wristband

GREGORY

BY DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

Breeze

A wise haiku by the Japanese poet Issa observes: “All the time I pray to Buddha / I keep on / killing mosquitoes.” Spend any amount of time in the woods and you understand. But you don’t have to kill the damn bugs if you wear this effective bracelet. DEETfree, it loads up with essential oils that keep the much-hated denizens at bay. Yes, it works. $19.50; us.parakito.com

they feel far more comfortable than more rigid trekking boots. The brand’s proprietary B-DRY membrane means you can stomp through muck with confidence and the responsive O-FIT insole keeps the shoe lively over hundreds of trail miles. It’s a versatile boot you can use for that bucket-list thru-hike or simply on a fun scramble with friends. $190; obozfootwear.com

LEKI

This big hauler is our pack of choice for gear-heavy trips (it swallows up climbing ropes, pack rafts, and fly rods) or adventures when we volunteer to carry the bulk of the family’s gear. And the suspension system, which comes in three size options and allows for additional adjustments to match your torso, distributes that load with ease while also providing lots of air flow via mesh venting. But it’s the little details that really impress us: A 14-liter mini pack attaches inside, mesh back pockets make it easy to keep essentials nearby, and the hip-belt pockets have ample space for gear you want to grab in a hurry. $350; gregorypacks.com

TRAIL TIME

Gregory Baltoro 75

Osprey Eja 58

56 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS THE GOODS FALL BACKPACKING

Tipping the scales at under three pounds, this women’s pack strikes the perfect balance—both lightweight and extremely stable. Credit that reliable on-trail performance to the brand’s AirSpeed suspension, which features a 3D mesh that gets the pack off your back to ventilate air and cut down on weight. It’s a pack designed for the long haul of thru-hikes, but we find it’s just as effective on weekend jaunts. $260; osprey.com

Light and sturdy, these trekking poles give you all the support you need to navigate rocky slopes and babbling brooks with a heavy pack on your back. But since they weigh just about nine grams per pole, they don’t feel bulky or wear you down during a long trip. The five-piece poles break down and set up in a snap and adjust between 110 and 130 cm, and a long grip shaft lets you grab down and shorten the pole on uneven ground. $220; leki.com

Bridger Mid Waterproof

Vasque

It’s back, baby. This light hiker has been a crowd favorite for ages and the latest iteration includes technical upgrades, including a burly Value Trail Slider outsole that can handle mud and slickrock. Weighing two pounds, two ounces and providing waterproof protection in the upper, the women’s model is a fine choice for backpacking or quick day hikes with friends. $160; vasque.com

Sawyer

Mini Water Filter

Leki Makalu FX Carbon

Carrying a bunch of water inflicts a heavyweight penalty on your lightweight backpacking set up. Don’t do it. This 1.4-ounce handheld filter provides a far better option. It fits right on the mouth of a storebought plastic bottle and purifies your drinking water whether you are on the trail or traveling abroad. $25; sawyer.com

PARA’KITO

OBOZ

VASQUE SAWYER

OSPREY

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Our Favorite New Music from the Blue Ridge and Beyond

“Memory”

Cool collab alert: Texas psych-rock trio Khruangbin have teamed up with Malian singer-guitarist Vieux Farka Touré on the new album, Ali, which came out in late September. The record was made to honor the legacy of Touré’s late father, Ali Farka Touré, a guitar ace and renowned pioneer of African desert blues music. “Tongo Barra” is an apt tribute, mixing swirling fret work, a deep-pocket funk groove, and powerful singing from Vieux Farka, who, in a statement about the album said: “It is about the love that Ali brought into the world.” – J.F.

58 BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

TOP TUNES IN OCTOBER

LEE FIELDS

MIX

CALEB CAUDLE

Lori McKenna is a prolific song scribe who’s penned hits for Carrie Underwood and Tim McGraw, but her own catalog of recorded work has been underappreciated. During the early days of the pandemic, Sam Beam, who performs as Iron & Wine, found solace in McKenna’s songs, which is expressed on the new covers EP, “LORI.” McKenna released the original version of “That’s How You Know” in 2011 as a deeply effecting piano ballad about realizing that devastating heartbreak has finally subsided. In Beam’s hands, the song takes on a haunting, ethereal quality that is enhanced with backing vocals from Sima Cunningham and Macie Stewart of the band Finom. – J.F.

After recording a collection of cover tunes from the confines of home during the pandemic, the members of The California Honeydrops finally reconvened, after a two year absence, in an Oakland studio to put together their newest release, “Soft Spot.” Their latest single, “In Your Arms,” is righteous vintage soul, with a groovy bass line, punchy horns, and Lech Wierzynkski’s silky smooth vocals. Fresh off a summer of festival gigs and a headlining spot at Red Rocks, the Honeydrops are in the midst of a tour sure to find them in front of packed houses from coast to coast. – D.S.

JOHN FULLBRIGHT

Glancing to the heavens and ruminating on the infinite expanse of space is generally a surefire reminder of our insignificance in the grand scheme of the universe. John Fullbright, returning

The songs of indie soul outfit Whitney often offer heavy reflections through easygoing jams. “Memory” fits the mold, as singer Julien Erhlich ruminates on mortality while a buoyant groove carries his gentle falsetto. “I can’t hide from bad dreams / Where I think I’m turning into a memory,” he sings, while vibrant keys carry his sentiment of accepting human fate. It’s a standout from the band’s new album, “SPARK,” which was released in September. – J.F.

BY JEDD FERRIS AND DAVE STALLARD

TRAIL FRESH TRACKS

IRON & WINE

Soul singer Lee Fields recently inked a deal with Daptone Records, which will release his new album, “Sentimental Fool,” on October 28. The title track finds Fields flexing his pipes through a retro R&B ballad, admitting his judgment is clouded by emotions amid an airtight, slow-burning groove and gentle horn accents. – J.F.

WHITNEY

KHRUANGBIN AND VIEUX FARKA TOURÉ “Tongo Barra”

“I Don’t Fit In”

“That’s How You Know”

"Stars”

“In Your Arms”

Caleb Caudle’s new record, “Forsythia,” kicks off with this ode to the uncertain. Recorded under the guidance of John Carter Cash and featuring guest work by Sam Bush, Jerry Douglas, and Elizabeth Cook, among others, Caudle weaves the story of a man in flux, searching for his place in the world while that world swirls around him. Caudle entered the Cash Cabin to record this project fearful that this might be his last album, but songs like this prove it should be anything but. – D.S.

THE SMITHEREENS “Outta This World”

Caught in record label limbo in 1993, The Smithereens dropped into a New York City studio and, over the course of a month, laid down the tracks for a record they wanted to release on their own label. They probably didn’t bank on that record, now appropriately entitled “The Lost Album," finally being released nearly thirty years later. “Outta This World,” with its fuzzed-out guitars, driving rhythm, and Pat DiNizio’s distinctive vocals, serves as a reminder of the halcyon garage rock days of the 1990s and proves the record was worth the wait. – D.S.

THE HONEYDROPSCALIFORNIA

“Sentimental Fool”

SAM BEAM, WHO PERFORMS AS IRON & WINE.

PHOTO BY JOSH WOOL

with his first album in eight years, flips that narrative on its head on “Stars,” where—alone with his piano and a voice bursting with ragged emotion— he gazes skyward and rediscovers love, significance, and conviction as he communes with the cosmos and the divine. – D.S

To hear these songs and more, follow the Blue Ridge Outdoors’ Trail Mix playlist on Spotify.

EVERY MONTH OUR EDITORS CURATE a playlist of new music, mainly focusing on independent artists from the South. In October we’re highlighting new tunes from Iron & Wine, Caleb Caudle, and the Smithereens.

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