Blue Ridge Outdoors November 2021 by Summit Publishing

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021

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TOP ADVENTURE TOWNS READERS PICK BEST PLACES TO LIVE IN THE BLUE RIDGE

Ales &Trails BREWERIES NEAR BIG MOUNTAINS AND WILD WATERS

VAN LIFE: PRACTICAL TIPS FROM ROAD VETERANS

CRAFT MEAD IN THE SOUTH

The Gear Gift Guide + WE ST V IR G IN IA H O STS M O UN TA IN B IK E WO R L D C UP

SkiBoone.com

Solutions for a healthy environment start in the South.

Your Parks Your adventures

SHENANDOAH RIVER STATE PARK 800-933-PARK (7275) |

www.virginiastateparks.gov | Know Before You Go — Recreate Responsibly

ON THE COVER

CONTENTS

PRESIDENT BLAKE DEMASO b l a ke @ b l u e r i d g e o u t d o o r s . c o m E D I TO R I N C H I E F J E D D F E R R I S jedd@blueridgeoutdoors.com

THE SKYLINE OF ASHEVILLE, N.C., NAMED A TOP ADVENTURE TOWN BY BRO READERS. P H O T O B Y D AW N F I R E P H O T O G R A P H Y

November-December 2021

D E PA R T M E N T S

P U B L I S H E R L E A H WO O DY leah@blueridgeoutdoors.com C R E AT I V E D I R E C TO R L AU R E N WO R T H lauren@blueridgeoutdoors.com

7 | FIELD REPORT

Explore North Carolina’s newest state trail in the rugged Hickory Nut Gorge.

A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R K AT I E H A R T W E L L katie@blueridgeoutdoors.com

E D I TO R I A L & P R O D U C T I O N S E N I O R E D I TO R W I L L H A R L A N will@blueridgeoutdoors.com

9 | THE STUDIO

Inspired by her native West Virginia, a prolific illustrator shares her process in a new book.

T R AV E L E D I TO R E L L E N K A N Z I N G E R ellen@blueridgeoutdoors.com

C O N T R I B U TO R S DAV E S TA L L A R D G R A H A M AV E R I L L D O U G S C H N I T Z S PA H N

L AU R E N S T E P P J E S S DA D D I O MIKE BEZEMEK

40 | THE OUT AND BACK

As winter approaches, a cross-country skiing junkie is craving a powder fix.

C O P Y E D I TO R S JULIA GREEN, ROBERT MCGEE

ADVERTISING & BUSINESS

45 | GOODS

S E N I O R AC C O U N T E X E C U T I V E

M A R T H A E VA N S

Great gift ideas for the gearhead in your life.

martha@blueridgeoutdoors.com AC C O U N T E X E C U T I V E TAY LO R L E A L taylor@blueridgeoutdoors.com

50 | TRAIL MIX

AC C O U N T E X E C U T I V E H A N N A H C O O P E R hannah@blueridgeoutdoors.com

New tunes from My Morning Jacket and Norman Blake, plus a tribute to late guitarist Neal Casal.

B U S I N E S S M A N AG E R M E L I S S A G E S S L E R melissa@blueridgeoutdoors.com

D I G I TA L M E D I A O N L I N E D I R E C TO R C R A I G S N O D G R A S S webdir@blueridgeoutdoors.com

D I G I TA L C O N T E N T S P E C I A L I S T

S H A N N O N M C G OWA N

shannon@blueridgeoutdoors.com

C I R C U L AT I O N I N Q U I R I E S circulation@blueridgeoutdoors.com

F E AT U R E S

10 | TOP ADVENTURE TOWNS Readers help select the region’s best outdoor hubs.

18 | ALES AND TRAILS SUMMIT

Breweries located near some of our favorite Southern spots for hiking, paddling, and climbing.

PUBLISHING

977 SEMINOLE TR PMB294 C H A R LOT T E S V I L L E , V I R G I N I A 2 2 9 0 1 200 DISTRICT DRIVE, UNIT 8 ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA 28803

GOT A STORY IDEA OR COMMENT? submit@blueridgeoutdoors.com B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

PHOTO COURTESY OF EXPLORE ASHEVILLE

B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

20 | MAKING MEAD

Craft-style mead, made from fermented honey, is gaining popularity in the South.

22 | VAN LIFE ADVICE

Two veterans share practical tips for making the highway home.

26 | WEST VIRGINIA GOES BIG FOR BIKING The Mountain State hosts a world cup and builds a stash of new trails.

isit V Harrisonburg

Make Harrisonburg, VA your next cycling destination. Located in the heart of the Shenandoah Valley, between Shenandoah National Park and the George Washington Forest offering the perfect basecamp for outdoor adventure with five craft breweries, Virginia’s First Culinary district and live entertainment.

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FIELD REPORT

PATHS FORWARD

STEEP CANYON BLAZERS Inside the Effort to Create North Carolina’s Newest State Trail in the Rugged Hickory Nut Gorge BY LAUREN STEPP

FROM THE VERY MOMENT THE AWARD-

winning Wildcat Rock Trail starts climbing, hikers know it’s going to be rough. In the first mile, goat-legged adventurers switchback through steep old-growth forest, passing mossy seeps and clearings with dramatic views of North Carolina’s Hickory Nut Gorge. Then, when there seems to be a whisper of relief, the trail turns sharply to reveal 136 granite stairs that fringe the face of Little Bearwallow Falls. This is the point where ruddyfaced hikers either accept their fate or turn around. It was also a turning point for Peter Barr, trails specialist at the Hendersonville-based land trust, Conserving Carolina. “We spent over $30,000 on what equated to about 300 linear feet of trail. That made me very nervous,” says Barr. “I remember standing at the base of those stairs with the contractor and telling him, ‘We’re taking a big risk here.’” But Barr has built his career on big risks. For the past decade, when he wasn’t bagging all 900 miles of trails in Great Smoky Mountains National Park or authoring a book on North Carolina’s lookout towers, Barr was developing the Hickory Nut Gorge State Trail network—a 100-mile system of trails through some of North Carolina’s wildest terrain. The trail network, which is roughly halfway complete, spans the entire Hickory Nut Gorge, a 20,000-acre canyon that cuts through Rutherford, Buncombe, and Henderson counties. The gorge is considered an ecological treasure not only because it harbors 37 rare plant species and 14 rare animal species, but also because it dishes up topographical drama. At certain points, the 14-mile-long ravine drops 1,800 feet in elevation, revealing slick granite faces and glistening cascades. For these reasons, Conserving Carolina made it a priority to save

T H E V I E W F R O M B E A R WA L L O W M O U N TA I N . P H O T O C O U R T E S Y OF CONSERVING CAROLINA

Bearwallow Mountain, a 4,232-foot peak in the small community of Gerton, from encroaching development in 2009. The Bearwallow Mountain trailhead opened two years later. “It became a huge success,” Barr says of the two-mile hike. “As an organization, we discovered that when people have a personal relationship with the places we protect, they have a stronger desire to get involved.” In the years since, Conserving Carolina has partnered with other private and public landowners to safeguard thousands of acres in the Hickory Nut Gorge. The nonprofit has also carved more than 30 miles of trails through deep valleys, imposing boulder fields, and high-elevation meadows with the hopes of one day linking the segments to create a thru-hike that rivals the Mountains-to-Sea Trail. Though the rugged terrain makes it nearly impossible to set a projected completion date for the Hickory Nut Gorge State Trail, which was officially designated by the North Carolina General Assembly in 2017, volunteers like Bob Carlson and Kim Chao are working hard to create an unrivaled hiking experience. Carlson and Chao are faithful members of the Rock Crushers, a crew of a dozen or so trail builders who spend Wednesdays raking forest flotsam and removing rhododendron root balls. “It’s a lot like you’re wrestling a rhododendron,” Carlson says of the latter. Both he and Chao are retired teachers from Chicago with wireframe glasses and subtle Midwestern accents, but they are not to be underestimated. Amid pandemic lockdowns last year,

the couple was instrumental in building the Youngs Mountain Trail, a two-mile path near Lake Lure that ascends 1,200 feet to deliver truly awesome views of the lower Hickory Nut Gorge. With guidance from Barr, the two spent hours staging locust logs for a set of stairs. Since the logs were too heavy to lift, Chao used her legs to push while Carlson tugged with his arms. “We’re the grunt labor,” says Chao. To which Carlson adds: “But we know what we’re doing.” They, like Barr, also love what they’re doing. Though the region’s unforgiving topography makes trail building arduous, magic happens in the gorge. “The Hickory Nut Gorge is one of the most spectacular landscapes in all of southern Appalachia,” says Barr. “While its terrain is very complex, creating access is worth it over and over again.”

Two Gorge-ous Day Hikes #1 Wildcat Rock Trail to Bearwallow Mountain DIFFICULTY: Strenuous LENGTH: 10 miles round-trip

Located off Highway 74A in Gerton, Wild Cat Rock Trail begins as a gentle amble through a picturesque apple orchard and quickly evolves into something else entirely. After a creek crossing, the path ascends aggressively to Little Bearwallow Falls, a 100-foot granite face that is most impressive in the spring. The second mile continues to gain elevation, rewarding dogged adventurers with the

hike’s namesake—Wildcat Rock. The granite precipice, which was discovered back when mountain lions were more abundant, offers views of pastoral countryside and a place to scarf some granola before continuing another mile to the ridgeline of Little Bearwallow Mountain. Though the trail has historically ended at Little Bearwallow, Conserving Carolina opened a two-mile connector trail to Bearwallow Mountain in November 2020, creating a solid 10mile day hike.

#2 Weed Patch Mountain Trail DIFFICULTY: Strenuous LENGTH: 20 miles round-trip

Weed Patch Mountain is the place to go when leaf peepers flood western North Carolina. This 20-mile jaunt is a true wilderness experience during which folks can bask in solitude and soak up long-range views. The hike starts on the Buffalo Creek Loop Trail and traverses rugged terrain that tightropes the Blue Ridge Escarpment, or the line where the Blue Ridge Mountains plunge to the foothills. The hike’s nearly 4,000-foot ascent is sure to leave you breathless, as are the geographical features. A short spur called Tunnel Trail, for instance, takes hikers through a giant archway created by a granite slab leaning against Eagle Rock, a popular climbing destination. “It’s maybe one of my favorite trail features in the gorge,” says Barr. “It would’ve been an injustice to not bring users here.”

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THE STUDIO

INSPIRED BY NATURE

PAINT ALONG WITH ROSALIE HAIZLETT

so many people go to the brewery, get a hold of my art, and enjoy it in a setting where they probably didn’t expect to encounter art with some fun facts about local ecology,” she said.

From Illustrator to Instructor

For a prolific West Virginia artist, learning is a still a part of the process. BY ELLEN KANZINGER

WHETHER IT’S OUT ON HER FAVORITE

trail or walking through town, illustrator Rosalie Haizlett often finds inspiration in everyday landscapes. “You can find beauty and creativity in the littlest, most mundane things if you train your eye to see it,” she said. “Instead of searching for constant inspiration in traveling to far off places, really big animals, or incredible mountain views, you can find beauty in the little things in nature.” Haizlett’s work comes from an intentional observation of plants, animals, and phenomena in order to translate the natural world to a piece of paper. “Art allows me to speak up for the plants and animals that I see and think are valuable,” she said.

“The land has been destroyed over and over again, and yet there’s still resilient nature that’s here. I try to celebrate that because it’s not easy to continue growing and thriving when there’s acid mine runoff.” Growing up on a West Virginia farm that was heavily strip mined, fracked, and logged, Haizlett saw the ways in which the natural world continued to flourish, despite the destruction. “The land has been destroyed over and over again, and yet there’s still resilient nature that’s here,” she said. “I try to celebrate that because it’s not easy to continue growing and thriving when there’s acid mine runoff.” Haizlett also spends a lot of time outside to help relieve the symptoms of chronic migraines, using nature as a balm for her body and mind. One of her favorite places to get outside is the remote Cranberry Wilderness, located in West Virginia’s Monongahela National Forest. “It’s this very cozy, magical little forest," she said. “There’s moss everywhere and really clear water. On

the East Coast, it’s really hard to find contiguous swaths of land that have been pretty well protected.”

The Technique

Haizlett estimates she has over 20,000 photos on her phone of various flora and fauna that have caught her eye over the years. From quiet landscapes to obscure textures, these images form the basis of her creative work. Haizlett’s technique is always evolving. “When I first started with this nature illustration niche, I was trying to hone my skills at making things look really realistic and biologically accurate,” she said. “But now, I feel like I’ve grasped that a little bit more so I’m trying to play with things and show more of the ecosystem.” Working primarily in watercolors and pen, Haizlett has a knack for capturing the intricate patterns and varying hues found throughout nature. Earlier this year, she also began experimenting with gouache, a hybrid of acrylic and watercolor paints that produces bright, bold colors. This transition has pushed Haizlett to examine how she approaches her work. “That’s been really frustrating sometimes because I felt like I was such a good painter because I really understood watercolor,” she said. “But switching over to a new medium, I felt like I was kind of starting from scratch.” As an artist, she sees trying new mediums as vital to her work and growth.

HAIZLETT'S NEW BOOK GUIDES READERS THROUGH A S E R I E S O F WAT E R C O L O R P R O J E C T S . P H O T O S COURTESY OF THE ARTIST

Depending on the month, Haizlett usually has a variety of different projects in progress, from personal pieces to client work for organizations like the Smithsonian and U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. During a year-long collaboration with Dancing Gnome Brewery in Pittsburgh, Penn., Haizlett has been designing a new beer can label every month celebrating the freshwater ecosystems of western Pennsylvania with part of the proceeds going to UpstreamPgh for watershed conservation efforts. “It’s been one of the most rewarding projects because

At the beginning of November, Haizlett released her first book, Watercolor in Nature. Its creation started as a personal project that she worked on loosely during downtime. Then, in the summer of 2020, a publisher contacted her out of the blue and asked if she had any interest in writing a book. “When the time was right, I had it all ready to go,” Haizlett said. One of the things that helped her throughout the writing process was the chance to be a beginner again. “I’ve been drawing and painting for so long that sometimes things feel like second nature,” Haizlett said. But trying out the new medium of gouache while working on the book was helpful to remember to put encouraging notes throughout the book. She also started rock climbing and taking fiddle lessons in the last year, both of which served as humble reminders of the frustration that can come with learning a new skill. Based on her personal methodology and technique, the book walks readers through 20 beginner-friendly projects using watercolor and pen to paint wildlife and botanicals. In addition to step-by-step instructions, Haizlett also details basic color mixing and foundation techniques, recommends tips for taking this practice into nature, and lists essential materials. “I kept it super simple because I think a lot of people, when they start a new hobby, feel like they need to go out and spend a lot of money in order to get the materials that will help their success rate,” she said. Like the workshops and online classes she’s taught in the past, this book is a way for Haizlett to share her knowledge with a wider audience. “I felt like this was something of value that my art could offer people,” Haizlett said. “Not just in seeing my art, enjoying it, and sticking it on the walls, but they could also make their own art and, hopefully, feel more connected to their surroundings through that.”

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

TOP ADVENTURE TOWNS Readers Select Best Hubs for Outdoor Recreation in the Blue Ridge BY ELLEN KANZINGER

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

he Blue Ridge boasts plenty of towns with backyard trails and waterways, along with thriving communities that help create access to the outdoors. To highlight some of best, we asked readers to cast votes in our annual Top Adventure Towns contest. The ballot started with 100 towns from across the Mid-Atlantic and Southeast and was narrowed down to winners in four categories: top large town (population 75,001+), mid-sized town (population 16,001-75,000), small-town (population 3,001-16,000), and tiny town (population less than 3,000). BRO caught up with the people who live, work, and recreate in these four towns, all located along the backbone of the Appalachians within three hours of each other, to learn more about what makes these adventure hubs stand out above the rest.

Top Large Town

Asheville, N.C. (pop. 92,870) After a post-college thru-hike on the Appalachian Trail, Stuart Cowles wanted to settle down in a place surrounded by the mountains. He eventually decided ( A B O V E ) F R O M W H I T E WAT E R R A F T I N G T O M O U N TA I N B I K I N G , ASHEVILLE, N.C., IS A HOT SPOT FOR ALL THINGS ADVENTURE. PHOTOS COURTESY OF EXPLORE ASHEVILLE (EXPLOREASHEVILLE.COM) ( L E F T ) T R A I L D AY S I N D A M A S C U S , VA . , AT T R A C T S H I K E R S F R O M A L L OVER THE WORLD. PHOTO BY JESSE KOKOTEK, COURTESY OF THE TOWN OF DAMASCUS

on downtown Asheville where he opened Climbmax in 1993. “By choosing a location in the middle of town, it allowed us to be a viable part of the community but also helped us to develop this community of rock climbing,” said Cowels, who opened a second gym at the Smoky Mountain Adventure Center by the French Broad River in 2015. Over the last two and a half decades, Cowles has watched Asheville grow from a lows-key mountain town into a bustling city with the infrastructure and innovative community to support outdoor recreation for locals and a constant influx of tourists. “It is a testament of the small business owners that are striving to keep this adventure alive and sharing our experiences with thousands and thousands of others,” he said. And Asheville is a coveted destination for good reason. Its location offers what Cowles calls “that quickly accessible remoteness,” found in backpacking epics like the Art Loeb Trail or riding the maze of amazing singletrack in the surrounding Pisgah National Forest. Growing up in Asheville, Emi Kubota appreciated these seemingly endless outdoor opportunities and recently has been focusing on sharing them with her daughter, who loves to bike, ski, and swim. “It gives her an outlet to discharge energy, to have an active, healthy lifestyle, as well as just have fun while connecting with friends and family,” she said. This summer, Kubota started KidCycle Club as a way to get more toddlers and youth connected to

that side of themselves through parent-child bike classes and bike rentals. “Just to start the seeds of that outdoor appreciation with your little ones is really what we’re going for,” she said. In the future, Kubota hopes to start holding adventure-oriented spring break and summer camps to introduce kids to more of what Asheville has to offer.

Asheville Must-Do’s

If you’re visiting with kids, Kubota recommends the Explore Loop at Bent Creek, biking around Lake James, and testing out some new skills at Richmond Hill Park and Kolo Bike Park. Cowles favors hiking the Mountainsto-Sea Trail, climbing at Rumbling Bald, and visiting many of the city’s 30-plus breweries around town.

Runners Up Roanoke, Va. (pop. 99,143)

Make your way to the top of Mill Mountain and the Roanoke Star, hang out by the riverfront with access to a variety of outdoor activities at Explore Park, and take a tour through the area along the Roanoke Valley Greenway network.

Charleston, S.C. (pop. 137,566)

Scale the climbing wall at James Island County Park, walk the wooded trails at the Woodlands Nature Reserve, and float the many waterways of the Low Country.

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HANG OUT HIGH ABOVE T H E T R E E S AT T H E C R A G S AND ZIPLINES OF BOONE, N.C. PHOTOS COURTESY OF EXPLORE BOONE

Congrats to all 100 Nominated Towns! Large Town Nominees

Top Medium Town Boone, N.C. (pop. 19,667)

As trail boss at Rocky Knob Mountain Bike Park, Kristian Jackson and a group of dedicated volunteers have put in over 10,000 hours of work to maintain Boone’s first park with dedicated bike trails. “The impetus was to build something that would be amazing enough to attract visitors, but also serve as a community space for locals as well,” Jackson said of what has now become a recreation fixture in the lively college town—home to Appalachian State University—in the North Carolina High Country. In the 11 years since the park was established, it has become a meeting place for riders of all ages. “In the beginning, we were building mountain bike trails to have a lot of fun,” Jackson said. “But what ended up happening was we were creating a space for more and more people to have access to mountain biking. People from all different walks of life are out here together riding bikes, learning more about themselves, each other, and their environment.” In addition to biking, Boone is known for an abundance of hiking options, many just off the nearby Blue Ridge Parkway, and worldclass climbing at crags like Ship Rock. “Watching my boys grow up, being born and raised in Boone, and seeing their understanding of themselves through the natural world is really profound for me,” Jackson said. “That’s directly a result of the outdoor recreation that they participate in.” Ready for a change of pace from their life in Chicago, Christina

Fryzel and her family moved to the Boone area in the spring to take over Wahoo’s Adventures. “We liked the variation in climate that’s here—the milder winters and more active outdoor life,” she said. In the months they’ve been running the outfitter, which offers camping and rafting on the nearby Watauga and Nolichucky Rivers, Fryzel has seen a steady influx of visitors looking to try new outdoor activities. “People are asking about a lot of different things, things they never thought they would have done before,” she said.

Boone Must-Do’s

In addition to countless climbing crags and waterways, Jackson suggests checking out the High Country ski resorts, like Sugar Mountain and Beech Mountain, and the carriage trails at Moses Cone Memorial Park. Fryzel recommends Grandfather Vineyard and the kidfriendly Mystery Hill.

Runners Up

Charlottesville, Va. (pop. 47,266)

Mountain bike the new trails at Ragged Mountain Reservoir and Heyward Community Forest, standup paddleboard the Rivanna River, and hike to sweeping overlooks or refreshing falls in nearby Shenandoah National Park.

Bristol, Tenn./Va. (pop. 43,749)

Walk or bike the Mendota Trail, head underground as you explore the Bristol Caverns, and dive into the city’s musical history at the Birthplace of Country Music Museum.

Alexandria, Va. Arlington, Va. Asheville, N.C. Atlanta, Ga. Baltimore, Md. Cary, N.C. *Charleston, S.C. Charlotte, N.C. Chattanooga. Tenn. Chesapeake, Va. Columbia, S.C. Columbus, Ga. Durham, N.C. Greensboro, N.C. Knoxville, Tenn. Lexington, Ky. Louisville, Ky. Lynchburg, Va. Macon, Ga. Philadelphia, Pa. Pittsburgh, Pa. Raleigh, N.C. Richmond, Va. *Roanoke, Va. Virginia Beach, Va.

Medium Town Nominees Altoona, Penn. Annapolis, Md. Beckley, W.Va. Boone, N.C. Bowling Green, Ky. *Bristol, Va./Tenn. *Charlottesville, Va. Cumberland, Md. Evans, Ga. Frankfort, Ky. Frederick, Md. Fredericksburg, Va. Greenville, S.C. Hagerstown, Md. Harrisonburg, Va. Johnson City, Tenn. Martinsburg, WV. Maryville, Tenn. Morganton, N.C. Morgantown, W.Va. Owensboro, Ky. Sevierville, Tenn. Spartanburg, S.C. Winchester , Va. Woodstock , Va.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

Your support of the Banff Film Festival supports the Shenandoah National Park. The 2022 Banff Centre Mountain Film Festival will take place at The Paramount Theater on March 6th and 7th, 2022. Save the date for the Banff Film Festival Kickoff Party! February 10th in Charlottesville. Contact edigney@snptrust.org for more information. Ticket sales begin January 7th, 2022 for the Banff Film Festival.

snptrust.org Official Philanthropic Partner to the Shenandoah National Park

B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S | R I C H M O N D / VA B E AC H + M E T R O D. C . E D I T I O N

Congrats to all 100 Nominated Towns! Small Town Nominees

RIDE THE CREEPER TRAIL OR HIKE THE CHANNELS FOR MILES OF FUN IN A B I N G D O N , VA . L E F T: P H O T O B Y S A M D E A N I R I G H T: P H O T O C O U R T E S Y O F THE TOWN OF ABINGDON

Top Small Town Abingdon, Va. (pop. 7,867)

When Jerry Camper and his brother opened the Virginia Creeper Trail Bike Shop in 2002, they had 10 bikes available to rent with the hopes of one day getting up to 30 rentals to service the increasing number of visitors coming into the area. Fast forward nearly 20 years later, Camper’s fleet is at almost 300 bikes available at two locations, as the trail’s popularity has only continued to grow, welcoming over 200,000 visitors a year. Born and raised in Abingdon, a quaint town in southwest Virginia’s portion of the Blue Ridge, Camper watched the local community rally around the Creeper since its completion in 1984. The 34-mile rail trail, which runs from Abingdon to Whitetop Station in the vast Mount Rogers National Recreation Area, has been a major economic driver in the region. “To see things grow around the trail has been really interesting,” Camper said. In addition to eight bike shops and shuttle services that provide gear and rentals, the town also has a thriving cultural scene based around the Barter Theater, a regional arts institution, and popular restaurants like 128 Pecan. There’s also plenty of additional adventure around Abingdon beyond the Creeper Trail. As the manager for five years at one of the local bike shops, Justin Harris often got asked, “What else is there to do after we’ve ridden the bike trail?” So in 2019, he decided

to start his own guiding company to show visitors more of the area. At White Blaze Outdoors, Harris offers a variety of guided nature hikes and overnight backpacking trips. Outings range from a reptile and amphibian tour of Steele Creek Park to an overnight among the windswept alpine-like terrain around Mount Rogers, the highest peak in Virginia. “You get up there and see different ecosystems with some wildlife,” Harris said.

Abingdon Must-Do’s

Camper’s favorite section along the Creeper is the scenic 8.5 miles between the welcome center and Alvarado Station. If you’re looking for a more secluded adventure, Harris suggests a hike on the Iron Mountain Trail. There are also several unique waterfalls to see in the area, including Little Stony Falls, Rolling Creek Falls, and Cabin Creek Falls.

Runners Up

Bedford, Va. (pop. 6,597)

Stop at the Peaks of Otter and other overlooks along the Blue Ridge Parkway, explore miles of shoreline along Smith Mountain Lake, and ride the flowy mountain bike trails at Falling Creek Park.

Black Mountain, N.C. (pop. 8,162)

Hike Lookout Trail for views of the Seven Sisters mountain range, fish from the pier on Lake Tomahawk, and listen to the sounds of Appalachia at the White Horse Black Mountain music and arts venue.

Abingdon, Va. *Bedford, Va. Berea, Ky. *Black Mountain, N.C. Brevard, N.C. Clifton Forge, Va. Dahlonega, Ga. Dawsonville, Ga. Elkin, N.C. Erwin, Tenn. Franklin, NC. Gatlinburg, Tenn. Hendersonville, N.C. Leonardtown, Md. Lewisburg, W.Va. Lexington, Va. London, Ky. Marion, Va. Mt. Sterling, Ky. Somerset, Penn. Summersville, W.Va. Thurmont, Md. Walhalla, S.C. Waynesville, N.C. Woodstock , Va.

Tiny Town Nominees Banner Elk, N.C. Berkeley Springs, W.Va. Blowing Rock, N.C. Bryson City, N.C. Cherokee, N.C. Chincoteague, Va. Damascus, Va. *Davis, W.Va. Fayetteville, W.Va. *Floyd, Va. Gate City, Va. Harlan, Ky. Hayesville, N.C. Helen, Ga. Hot Springs, N.C. Hot Springs, Va. Landrum, S.C. Marlinton, W.Va. Mars Hill, N.C. Mathews, Va. McHenry, Md. Old Fort, N.C. Shepherdstown, W.Va. Sylva, N.C. Townsend, Tenn.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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240+ 240+ 240+

ILES OF MILES APPALACHIAN OF APPALACHIAN TRAIL TRAILTRAIL MILES OF APPALACHIAN

400+ 400+ 400+

260+ 260+ 260+

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700+ 700+ 700+

35+ 35+ 35+

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28,000+ 28,000+ 28,000+ 2021

WINNER

Top Tiny Town Damascus, Va. (pop. 775)

Visiting Damascus as a child, Anya Faust never imagined one day moving to the quiet mountain town in southwest Virginia. Over the years, it was a place she would go with her family or partner, Hunter, to get away. Then, while in college, she began to notice the town really starting to take off. “When we’d visit, there were places to go out, eat, and shop,” Faust said. “That’s why we wanted to move. The town is growing, and we would love to be part of the journey.” The couple made the decision to leave the hustle and bustle of Raleigh at the beginning of the year to move to Damascus. “It was a complete 180 but definitely a 180 in the right direction,” Hunter Faust said. Soon after settling in, the Fausts started Experience Damascus, offering guided fly fishing trips and rentals in the area. Damascus, though, is especially loved by hikers. Nicknamed “Trail Town USA,” seven major trails crisscross in Damascus, including the Virginia Creeper, Iron Mountain, and Appalachian Trail, which runs down the town’s main drag. “Even if you're just walking on the sidewalk shopping, you’re on the Appalachian Trail,” Jackie Lastinger said. For A.T. thru-hikers, the town, which has multiple outfitters, local restaurants, and comfortable lodging, is a well-known stop about a month into the journey northbound from Springer Mountain. Every May, large crowds come to Damascus for Trail Days, an annual festival that celebrates A.T. hiking culture with gear

C E L E B R AT E A L L T H I N G S T R A I L S I N D A M A S C U S , VA . , W I T H S E V E N MAJOR TRAILS CONVERGING IN T H E A R E A . L E F T: P H O T O B Y J E S S E K O K O T E K I R I G H T: P H O T O C O U R T E S Y OF THE TOWN OF DAMASCUS

vendors, live music, and a rowdy hiker parade. After completing her thru-hike last year, Lastinger decided to return to the area to help run the Broken Fiddle Hostel and Inn. Splitting her time between Damascus during the hiking season and Maine during the winter, Lastinger enjoys the accessibility to trails. “I really love that I don’t have to drive anywhere,” she said. “You can walk or ride your bike anywhere you need to get here—the grocery store, gas station, your work, the brewery to hang out.”

Damascus Must-Do’s

If you’re looking to spend a day fly fishing, the Fausts recommend Laurel Creek, Whitetop Laurel Creek, Beaverdam Creek, and South Holston River, all offering excellent opportunities to catch native trout. Lastinger

says hikers should check out Backbone Rock, a spur off the A.T. with grills and a pavilion right by the creek, for a day hike, and Whitetop Mountain for the best sunset in the area. Look out for the opening of the new Damascus Trail Center in 2022.

Runners Up

Floyd, Va. (pop. 436)

Take in the views from atop Buffalo Mountain Natural Area Preserve, float the Little River, and fly through the trees with Buffalo Mountain Ziplines.

Davis, W. Va. (pop. 631)

Hike to the thundering falls at Blackwater Falls State Park, cross-country ski at White Grass Ski Touring Center, and bike the Blackwater Canyon Rail Trail.

540.856.2121 | bryceresort.com

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

Ales & Trails Adventure here. Drink there. BY MIKE BEZEMEK

cold beer makes for the perfect ending to a day exploring the outdoors, and fortunately the South is full of world-class adventure and amazing craft breweries churning out creative suds. Whether you love a hazy IPA after a hard hike or a crisp lager after a long paddle, here’s a look at some of the region’s best breweries with places to play not far away.

Back Forty Beer Company Gadsden, Alabama The Back Forty Beer Company is named after an old agricultural term for the often overlooked 40 acres of land farthest from the barn. Similarly, Back Forty Beer Co. feels that Alabama is often overlooked when it comes to beer, and they hope to elevate the state’s status as a micro-brewery destination. While at Back Forty, check out their award-winning Truck Stop Honey, an English brown ale. For something on the hoppy side, try the Freckle Belly IPA. Where to Play: Little River Canyon National Preserve The trails are short at the “L.R.C.,” which just leaves more time for the B.E.E.R. afterward. Little River Canyon National Preserve is located on the southern end of Lookout Mountain, about 40 miles from Gadsden. The short hikes are clustered around the not-so-small Little River Falls, with the Little Falls trail leading less than a mile, one-way, to a popular swimming hole. Other trails can be found along the preserve’s scenic drive on AL176, which serendipitously leads south toward Gadsden.

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

Trailhead Beer Market Knoxville, Tennessee There are 36 stops on the Knoxville Beer Trail, including breweries and tap rooms, so selecting just one is pretty tough. Instead, you could try a bit of everything (within reason) at the Trailhead Beer Market, located on the edge of the city’s Urban Wilderness not far from the Ijams Nature Center. If that doesn’t satisfy your thirst, nearby there are three more breweries in South Knoxville, including Print Shop, Alliance, and HiWire. Basically, come for the weekend but maybe stay for a week?

Where to Play: Ijams Nature Center Knoxville’s Urban Wilderness has over 50 miles of natural surface trails with eleven trailheads to pick from. One excellent spot for a hike is the Ijams Nature Center, a 315-acre greenspace with about 12 miles of trails and a section of the Will Skelton Greenway. While at Ijams, check out the boardwalk along the Tennessee River. ( T O P ) O U T D O O R S E AT I N G A N D G O O D E AT S AT B A C K F O R T Y B E E R C O M P A N Y. P H O T O S C O U R T E S Y O F T H E B R E W E R Y ( B O T T O M ) A L A B A M A ' S L I T T L E R I V E R FA L L S . P H O T O : P U B L I C D O M A I N

Westbrook Brewing Company Mt. Pleasant, South Carolina

P H O T O S C O U R T E S Y O F C O A S TA L E X P E D I T I O N S ( L E F T ) A N D T H E D A M A S C U S B R E W E R Y ( T O P R I G H T ) A N D W E S T B R O O K B R E W I N G C O M PA N Y ( B O T T O M R I G H T )

Located just outside of Charleston, the Westbrook taproom in Mt. Pleasant offers way more beers than you could (should) ever try in a single visit. If you go when it’s hot out, consider the Low & Slow Helles, a German-style golden lager. If you head there during fall, try the Marzen, an Oktoberfest-style Amber Lager. And if you go during winter, consider the Mexican Cake, an imperial double stout. Also, if you go during winter, don’t blink, because winter doesn’t last long on the Southeast coast. Where to Play: Go paddling with Coastal Expeditions If you’re looking to rest your legs and stretch your arms, Coastal Expeditions in Mt. Pleasant offers a variety of paddling adventures. For paddling closer to town, consider the Shem Creek Kayak Tour, which departs from the Coastal Expeditions Shem Creek Campus. For something more adventurous, consider one of two trips around Francis Marion National Forest. One explores the tidal Awendaw Creek. The other trip, the Blackwater Tour, takes paddlers deeper into the swampy wilderness.

Lazy Hiker Brewing Company Franklin, North Carolina Located just off the Appalachian Trail, the Lazy Hiker taproom sees its share of thru-hikers on the A.T.—and “thru-drinkers” on Appalachian brewery tours. With more

beers than can fit in a backpack, you’ll be hard pressed to try them all in a single visit. If you still have miles to make that day, consider the lighter Trail Mate Golden Ale. If you’re kicking off your boots and relaxing, consider trying one of their IPAs, like the Slack Pack. Where to Play: Appalachian Trail to Siler Bald Since you’re so close to the East Coast’s most famous trail, why not have your own walk in the woods for a few miles? The seven-mile round-trip to Siler Bald has about 1,000 feet of elevation gain and stunning views from the summit lookout. The trailhead at Wayah Crest (aka Wayah Gap) can be a little tricky to find, located in Wayah Gap Picnic Area on Wayah Road, about 14 miles from the Lazy Hiker tap room.

Broken Throne Brewing Pikeville, Kentucky There’s nothing better than being out in the middle of rolling country when you stumble across a brewery. This one, in the tiny town of Pikeville, is only a half-hour drive from the scenic Breaks Interstate Park. At Broken Throne, try their Gollysnotcher, a hazy New England IPA with an always-changing recipe. Or toast your fortune at finding yet another brewery and adventure spot with the “Dumb Luck” Blonde. Where to Play: Breaks Interstate Park Straddling the border of Kentucky and Virginia, Breaks

Interstate Park is a multi-sport adventure playground. The park offers over 20 miles of hiking trails, as well as a 12-mile mountain biking trail. And paddling opportunities include a lake and the Russell Fork, a river with both class I floats and an extreme class V gorge. With so many opportunities, make sure you leave time for the brewery.

The Damascus Brewery Damascus, Virginia The small mountain town of Damascus is located at the intersection of the Appalachian Trail and the Virginia Creeper Rail Trail. Just outside of town is the perfect adventurer’s way station, the Damascus Brewery. Their tasting room has taps pouring eight of their 45 beers at any one time. If you like hops, try the Beaver Rage, an East Coast Red IPA. If you’re looking for something mellower, try the Honey Mango Sour. Where to Play: Virginia Creeper National Recreation Trail The Virginia Creeper is a 34.3-mile rail trail that runs from Abingdon, Va., through Damascus and ends near Whitetop Station in the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area. You can easily walk a section of the Virginia Creeper going either direction out of Damascus. But another option is to take your bike and ride this pleasant gravel trail. Heading west toward Abingdon, the trail is mostly flat. Heading east toward Whitetop, the trail climbs at a steady two-percent gradient, meaning on an out-and-back ride you can coast back to the brewery.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

BECKY STARR AND HER HUSBAND BEN

EASY TO BREW, THIS VERSATILE DRINK MADE FROM FERMENTED HONEY IS GAINING POPULARITY IN THE SOUTHERN CRAFT SCENE.

BY JULIA GREEN

“It’s a balance between science and art, getting the fermentation right as well as adding spices, herbs, fruits, and other elements to enhance the flavor and create the preferred style.” Mead can mimic a variety of drinks; Starrlight’s brews are more wine-style, but mead can resemble wine, beer, cider, or even kombucha, depending on the fermentation and flavoring. “People expect meads to be sweet, thick, and syrupy, and it’s not true,” said Becky. “It’s a balance between science and art, getting the fermentation right as well as adding spices, herbs, fruits, and other elements to enhance the flavor and create the preferred style.” Ben, who Becky describes as having “mad scientist tendencies,” is the brewmaster. When he gets bored, he creates new flavors, including Kickin’ Cranberry Orange Mead, a fall brew with chipotle peppers inspired by a Guy Fieri recipe he saw on the Food Network. Aron Wehr of Wehrloom Honey in Robbinsville, N.C., started “playing around” with mead in part to expand on the success of their business selling honey and honey-derived products. Initially it did not go well. “We made a lot of terrible mead,” said Wehr, who pitied friends who volunteered to taste test. “You could see in their faces that it was

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF WEHRLOOM HONEY

Mead Makers

first tasted mead, an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting honey and water, at a renaissance fair. Soon after their first taste, she and Ben started making mead for fun. The Starrs shared their homemade mead with friends, who gave it rave reviews. Though the Starrs believed their friends were just happy to be getting free booze, they decided to enter a competition. To their utter surprise, they won Best in Show at the International Mead Association's Mead Festival. Two months after that win, Becky was laid off, which she says “felt like divine intervention.” They started scouting locations and opened Starrlight Mead in Pittsboro, N.C., a few years later.

COME FOR

ADVENTURE horrible.” Wehr says he donated most of that mead “to the toilet” and kept experimenting. Eventually, he got it right—Wehlroom now has two meaderies, one in Asheville and one in Robbinsville. “I don’t like drinks that are crazy sweet,” says Wehr, who has Celiac’s disease and can’t drink beer (mead is gluten-free). The menu at Wehrloom’s Asheville Meadery includes a variety of meads, including beer-like offerings like Yardsale, which contains hops and “has all the qualities of a juicy IPA,” and BeeWizer, which is more “lightly hopped for the perfect blend of bitter and sweet.” For Wehr, who has an MFA in painting and has taught drawing, painting, and printmaking at the college level, mead is about creativity. “It’s about everything from experimenting with flavors to figuring out how to fix broken equipment.” Their brew Twice Im“peach”ed came about after Wehr added a half-batch of blackberry mead to a peach brew that had come out too sweet due to underfermentation. Now it’s on the menu at their Asheville Meadery as a Limited Edition offering to get “before it’s locked up.” In addition to using fruit and herbs to flavor meads, the honey plays a big role. Honey and its flavors vary wildly, based on a number of factors including the season, what plants are nearby and in bloom, how far the bees travel, and if they pollinate a range of plant types or are limited to just one. Wildflower honey is named as such because the bees have been allowed to roam and gather nectar from a wide variety of plants, while varietal honey comes from bees harvesting from primarily one plant type. One of Starrlight’s suppliers takes his bees to the mountains to pollinate on blooming sourwood trees; the resulting honey has a buttery flavor with caramel notes. Most of Starrlight’s honey supply comes from North Carolina beekeepers; they’ve purchased 5.67 tons of honey in the last 12 months and 37.2 tons since they opened 11 years ago. A map in the tasting room shows the locations of all the beekeepers they’ve bought from. Their purchase size depends on the beekeepers; for a small operation with only a few hives, Starrlight might purchase five gallons. A

STAY FOR TH E

Stars bigger operation with 100 hives might yield 25 gallons. Wehrloom Honey began when Aron bought his wife two beehives and beekeeping equipment as a Christmas present. What began as a hobby grew into a large-scale operation that now supports a wide variety of products, including soap, lotion, lip balm, candles, and other honey-derived products that also proved popular. “We don’t sell anything we don’t love,” said Wehr. Wehrloom offers a monthly class at the Asheville meadery where participants can try making a small batch of mead. Wehr encourages people to be open to experimenting; “If it’s good, it’s good, and if it’s crap, it’s not a big deal— it’s only five gallons.” Alison Schaefer, who brews mead at her home in Chapel Hill, N.C., is definitely open to experimentation. “I like to throw the things in the jar and see what happens,” she said. Schafer first tasted mead at Starrlight, where she got a brief tour of the equipment and a recipe for mead whose ingredients were dead simple: honey, water, yeast, oranges, cinnamon sticks, cloves, and raisins. She used a well-cleaned gallon glass jar from Target as a container and got going, turning three pounds of honey into a gallon of mead, or roughly four bottles.

WEHRLOOM HONEY HAS TWO NORTH CAROLINABASED MEADERIES, ONE IN ASHEVILLE AND ONE IN ROBBINSVILLE.

Make Shenandoah National Park and Skyline Drive your winter adventure destination and cozy up in Front Royal with beautiful views and local experiences. Make your reservation to Discover Front Royal today!

“It’s the easiest of alcoholic beverages to brew,” said Schaefer, who had brewed beer but was drawn to the simplicity of mead. “You can make it in smaller batches than beer and you don’t have to worry as much. It becomes alcoholic so quickly there’s not much risk of infection.” The fermentation happens in a matter of days, but Schaefer lets her batches age for several months to let the flavor mellow out. She’s made mead using different types of honey, including buckwheat honey from Pennsylvania that imparted an earthy, vegetal flavor and was less sweet than mead made with clover honey or tupelo honey, which has a high fructose content. “It’s fun to have a hobby that you get to consume.” Schaefer says her mead, which tastes more like wine, is delicious. The popularity of mead is expanding; in 2008, there were 60 meaderies in the country, and today there are over 500. With all the growth in the industry, Wehr points out that “nobody has stepped up in the mead world to be the New Belgium or Sierra Nevada. Maybe that’ll be us. It’s gotta be somebody.” NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

ON THE ROAD 5 Practical Tips for Van Life B Y R O X Y & B E N D AW S O N

SO YOU’VE DECIDED TO MAKE THE

open road your new home. Preparing for van life comes with plenty of romantic notions of chasing adventures on a whim, but the actual logistics are inevitably a bit more complicated. Roxy and Ben Dawson, who lived on the road for nearly five years, know firsthand that transitioning to the van lifestyle can be full of bumps and pitfalls. The married couple, and former members of the Blue Ridge Outdoors Road Team, recently co-authored “The Falcon Guide to Van Life,” a guide book filled with practical living advice, suggested road trips, van-friendly National Park secrets, and (more than a few) cute dog pictures. Here, they’ve shared a handful of key tips for those contemplating calling an adventure vehicle home.

Model Your Build Out

You’ve got an empty van— now how are you going configure it into a sustainable living space? Never underestimate the power of an unused Amazon box and some tape. Before starting your build, throw it back to your childhood years and get crafty with some duct tape and cardboard boxes. You can render an

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

entire 3D buildout with those two items. Or you can keep it 2D and sketch out the perfect floor plan. The flexibility of the material allows you to play around with your build without added expense and sweat. The best part is once you’ve decided on your layout, you already have cardboard patterns as your guides.

Take a “Test Trip” Before Your Grand Adventure

Instead of packing for your six-month road trip in one go, whisk away for a long weekend with what you think you will need. Stay close to home in a campground or accessible open spot, and take inventory while you’re out there. With only a few nights to manage, you can easily figure out what you’ve forgotten (a cutting board, maybe some twinkle lights), and also jettison what you don’t need (That third plate? You

THE AUTHORS OFTEN LOOK FOR REMOTE CAMPSITES NOT FOUND ON APPS OR WEBSITES.

N E U TR INO P RO M A ST E R S O F I N S U L AT I O N

N E U T R INO P R O JA C K ET Engineered for a life at the sharp end, the Neutrino Pro has been a favourite of mountaineers for the last twenty years. Stay warm this winter with this protective down jacket, whether you’re questing up frozen waterfalls or belaying from a storm battered ledge. WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT

That third plate? You don’t need it. After your short trip, reevaluate everything you packed and update the list.

THE AUTHORS (PICTURED) H AV E L I V E D O N T H E R O A D FOR NEARLY FIVE YEARS.

don’t need it). After your short trip, reevaluate everything you packed and update the list.

Download Offline Maps for Your State and the Surrounding States

Always, ALWAYS download the offline maps of your destination from Google maps (or Avenza, which has free BLM and USFS “Motor Vehicle Use Maps” that will show you where to find dispersed camping), and then grab the offline versions for the entire area around it as well. We have found our way numerous times by having an offline backup (and your blue dot still shows up connected to the satellite so you can continue navigating). This is the first thing we do when heading off on any trip, even when we've been to a destination hundreds of times.

Living in the Van Long Term? Establish a New Domicile

If you give up your permanent address, you’re going to run into a few hiccups. Forgoing a permanent residence will affect many things, including your taxes, vehicle insurance, health insurance, where you can receive mail, and voting. Before embarking, you can set up a forwarding address to a different

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legal permanent residence in a more “nomadic friendly” state. This is called establishing a new domicile. Research a state that works best for you, but certain ones—South Dakota, Texas, and Florida—are particularly friendly for this.

Forget the Free Campsite Apps, Forge Your Own Way (Responsibly)

Camping apps and websites are so darn convenient, leading you straight to overnight spots that are already established. But occasionally you’ll want to park for the evening somewhere a little more isolated, without damaging natural resources or camping illegally. To find a site that isn’t highlighted in an app already, use Google Maps’ satellite view. If you find an area open to free camping but don’t want to risk driving down a rutted dirt road for 30 minutes only to find there are no established spots, look at the road up close using the satellite view (you will need service for this). There are limitations: You won’t be able to see camping spots if the road has heavy tree cover, and you won’t be able to assess the condition of the road to see if your two-wheel drive van can handle the trip. Nonetheless, this is an awesome way to find “new” sites (that have been established but aren’t on the apps) and some precious solitude.

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MOUNTAIN STATE MOMENTUM Between the IMBA Snowshoe Highlands Ride Center and the international attention from the UCI World Cups, West Virginia’s Pocahontas County is going big for biking.

West Virginia is on her best behavior. It’s Saturday morning of the 2021 Mercedes-Benz Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI) Mountain Bike World Cup Finals at Snowshoe Mountain Resort. I’m walking the cross-country course with Snowshoe Director of Risk and Business Services and World Cup Event Director Preston Cline. While the elite women make a few practice laps on the course, Cline and I weave through stands of spruce to see how the rootlaced track is faring. Save for a few patches of mud where springs seep beneath the trail’s tread, the course is running dry, at least by Snowshoe standards. Late September weather in the Snowshoe Highlands is always dicey, but the last time Snowshoe hosted the World Cup Finals in 2019, racers were treated to uncharacteristically arid tracks. Two years later, it seems West Virginia is yet again gracing World Cup attendees with her cheery blue skies and hero dirt. The conditions make Cline’s job, at least in part, a little easier. Hosting the World Cup this year has proven uniquely challenging compared to organizing the 2019 Finals. As if the pressure of shining an international spotlight on Snowshoe wasn’t enough, Cline and his crew have the added stress of safely bringing some 8,000 people from 32 different countries to a rural county of less than 8,000, all during a pandemic. Cline hasn’t slept much in the past week, but for him, it’s worth it. “It really makes you proud,” he says.

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ALL PHOTOS BY JESS DADDIO

BY JESS DADDIO

“This terrain and these trails that are in my backyard are good enough to bring elite-level riders from all over the world here to West Virginia. That says something.” That the energy behind mountain biking here keeps building says something, too. Continuing its decades-long track record of hosting elite cycling events, Snowshoe has already announced it will host the 2024 UCI Mountain Bike Marathon World Championships, with more World Cup bids in the works. But while these international events have drawn the most attention from mainstream media outlets, they’re just a small part of a greater mountain bike momentum that’s bringing not just the resort but Pocahontas County to the next level. And to truly experience that, you have to ride it.

t’s quiet at 4,859 feet, the summit of Thorny Benchmark. Sue Haywood and I are pedaling our loaded mountain bikes along the moss-lined singletrack that threads Snowshoe’s dankly forested southern rim. After days of jostling shoulder to shoulder alongside thousands of other World Cup fans, the relative emptiness of the woods feels refreshing. At the base of Snowshoe’s fire tower, we hear the distant din of World Cup crowds erupting into cheer. Unbeknownst to us, American crosscountry rider Christopher Blevins had just battled his way to cross the finish line first, something no American man had done in 27 years.

It is the first of five days Haywood—a retired cross-country World Cup rider herself—and I will spend riding our bikes through the International Mountain Bike Association (IMBA) Snowshoe Highlands Ride Center. Initially designated as a bronze level Ride Center in 2019, the Snowshoe Highlands quietly achieved silver level status in late 2020 and is one of only two silver level ride centers on the East Coast. The Snowshoe Highlands Ride Center includes over 375 miles of singletrack, most of which is located in the Monongahela National Forest in Pocahontas County and some in neighboring Randolph County. Our goal is to connect the Ride Center’s major trail systems—the Mower Tract, Greenbrier River Trail, Cranberry Backcountry, and Tea Creek Area—a mostly off-road bikepacking adventure that will cover some 200 miles of rugged high-elevation West Virginia terrain. It is, in effect, a tour through time, linking together Pocahontas County’s logging and mining heritage with its mountain biking past, present, and future. We begin our bikepacking journey at Snowshoe Mountain Resort. Geographically, the resort is a prime launching point for any adventure in Pocahontas County. Surrounded on all sides by either the Monongahela National Forest or Cass Scenic Railroad

( L E F T ) E V E N T D I R E C T O R P R E S T O N C L I N E AT T H E W O R L D C U P AT S N O W S H O E . ( R I G H T ) T H E M O W E R T R A C T.

State Park, Snowshoe’s backdoor access to thousands of acres of public lands makes it an ideal anchor for the IMBA Ride Center and our bikepacking route. Our first stop is the Mower Tract, a 40,000-acre chunk of national forest located in Randolph County. From Bald Knob just past Snowshoe’s property line, we descend a fast and loose 20 miles of gravel to the Shavers Fork of the Cheat River before climbing an old horse trail back up to the Cheat Mountain ridgeline. In its past life, the Mower Tract was heavily logged and strip mined. Today, the scarred yet stunning landscape is home to a decades-long restoration project, which includes a budding population of native red spruce and big-toothed aspen, as well as six miles of fresh-cut singletrack. According to Snowshoe Vice President of Mountain Operations Ken Gaitor, Snowshoe and the Monongahela National Forest are working together to complete a roughly eight-mile trail by the end of summer 2022 that will connect cyclists from the resort through the old rail town of Spruce and to the Mower Tract. The resort has already started crafting the connection by restoring Poleax, an old logging grade on Snowshoe property. The remaining singletrack will be built on national forest land and already has West Virginia Department of Highways grant money earmarked for construction. Snowshoe intends to use the Mower Tract trail connection as part of the 2024 UCI Mountain Bike Marathon

“Mountain biking is a community, it’s a culture, it’s not just a resort. If you want that community to grow here, you have to be a good partner.” World Championships course, but more importantly, Gaitor says this project is an example of how the resort is pivoting its trail building and advocacy efforts to serve more than just the resort. “We owe it to the people of this county to be responsible stewards of the land and a community partner that people can rely upon to do the right thing for all of us,” he says. “[Mountain biking] is a community, it’s a culture, it’s not just a resort. If you want that community to grow here, you have to be a good partner.” After spending a night camping under a full moon on the Mower Tract, Haywood and I pedal south and back into Pocahontas County. Despite calling West Virginia home, Haywood indulges my curiosities. We embrace the tourist attractions, taking time to marvel at the old-growth spruce forests on Gaudineer Knob, lunching at the historic train depot in Cass, cruising along the Greenbrier River Trail at sunset before making camp along the banks of the Greenbrier. On the third day, West Virginia resumes her normal behavior: stormy and unpredictable. As we climb away from the Greenbrier and up into the Cranberry

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Backcountry, a thick fog and steady rain envelopes us. We bypass Marlinton to stay off of busy paved roads, but the county seat will soon provide a crucial dirt corridor in Pocahontas County: IMBA Trail Solutions has already flagged 27 miles of singletrack south of town on national forest land, a new purpose-built trail system known as Monday Lick. Construction is estimated to begin here in late 2022, and grant funding has already been partially secured. From our dry and surprisingly spacious shelter along the Cranberry River, we climb through the Tea Creek Area to the top of Props Run, a classic old-school singletrack descent. It is here that West Virginia finally decides to fully unleash her true nature. Wind lashes the treetops above us. Between the pelting rain and roaring wind, I can hardly hear my brakes squealing as we pick our way down the deadfall-littered descent. It seems fitting that our fourth day ends where much of the mountain biking in Pocahontas County began: Elk River Touring Center in Slatyfork. For nearly two decades, Gil and Mary Willis hosted the Wild 100 endurance race and West Virginia Fat Tire Festival, both of which brought national renown to the Mountain State. The Willises greet our mud-splattered bikes and bodies with a genuine warmth and the use of their hose. On our fifth and final morning, we roll out from Elk River with

a home-cooked breakfast in our bellies. Before climbing the final pavement stretch back to Snowshoe, we stop at the Linwood Community Library to check out the pump track. Recently built by volunteers and Snowshoe’s bike park employees, the pump track is quaint but well-equipped with a Park Tool stand, a pump, a grill, and a water fountain. Soon there will be a skills area to accompany the pump track, too. Between the IMBA Ride Center designation and the international attention from the World Cup events, Pocahontas County seems to be having a moment. Eric Lindbergh, president of the local IMBA chapter Pocahontas Trails, certainly hopes so. The challenge now is learning how to capitalize on the momentum in a way that honors the Snowshoe Highlands’ mountain biking roots while simultaneously heralding a new chapter in trails. “For being out in the woods and not having the population base that everyone else has, we’re doing amazingly well. That’s part of the story,” he says. “It’s slowly happening. It all takes time and money and resources, but that there’s nobody here and we’re able to pull all of this off is pretty cool.” Interested in the route? Stay tuned to BIKEPACKING.com to learn how you can ride the Snowshoe Highlands 200!

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Spotsylvania Co.

Conveniently located between D.C. and Richmond, Spotsylvania County oﬀers a harmonious blend of rural landscapes and outdoor adventures all in a setting as unique as its name. Spotsylvania is a one-of-a-kind destination, oﬀering water sports and fishing on Lake Anna, award-winning wineries and breweries, a world-famous distillery, diverse dining options, and scenic walks along miles of trails nestled among historic Civil War battlefields. A FO TRENRI N M N OG O N

MORNING

Wake up waterfront at one of the many serene lake house rentals that Lake Anna has to offer! Start your lakefront adventure off overlooking the water from your private dock as you enjoy a delicious campfire breakfast. Next, head over to High Point Marina to try your hand at reeling in bass, crappie, or striper with McCotter’s Lake Anna Guide Service. Not interested in fishing? Don’t worry! Lake Anna Outﬁtters also offers kayak, canoe, and paddleboard rentals and tours, which creates an opportunity. for all interests and abilities to enjoy the views of the lake. Don’t forget to pick up your exclusive Lake Anna souvenirs and unique merchandise while you’re there. SIT BAC K, REL AX, AND ENJOY THE DELICIOUS FL AVORS AT L AKE ANN A WINERY.

Lake Anna will Take in a be celebrating delicious lunch its 50th overlooking the Anniversary lake at The Cove with a series Restaurant before of events heading to Lake throughout the Anna State Park year 2022. where you can enjoy the sandy beach, hike 15 miles of scenic trails, go on a gold-mining expedition, or enjoy one of the many programs put on by enthusiastic and knowledgeable park rangers! EVENING

After an action packed day, it’s time to sit back, relax, and revel in the decadent tastes at Lake Anna Winery or the sweeter tastes at Mattaponi Winery. Both wineries offer special events, tastings, pairings, and a beautiful ambience that perfectly closes out any weekend getaway. VISITSPOTSY.COM @VISITSPOTSY @VISITSPOTSY

PADDLIN G ROC KY GAP S TATE PARK. PHOTO COURTESY ALLEGANY COUNT Y TOURISM

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ALL PH OTOS COURT ESY OF VISIT SPOTSY

No matter the season, thereʼs always somewhere to go outside and play in the Mid-Atlantic and Southeast. As youʼre planning your next day or weekend getaway, use this guide to explore some of the top destinations across the region. Weʼve got all the information you need, including adventure, restaurant, and lodging recommendations, so you can kick back and relax. Please check with locations prior to travel for local guidelines or use this guide for future trips!

GO OUTSIDE AND PL AY IN A FAMILY OF CYCLIS TS PEDAL PAS T THE FROS TBURG DEPOT TO TAKE THE SWITC HBAC K TO THE GREAT ALLEGHENY PASSAGE TRAIL. (INSET) A FAMILY OF HIKERS TAKE IN THE BREATHTAKIN G VIEWS OF THE C ANYON OVERLOOK TRAIL AT ROC KY GAP S TATE PARK.

FAMILY FRIENDLY BEGINNER AREA , CRITTER CRAWL, AT C AN AAN VALLEY RESORT. (INSET) CROSSCOUNTRY SKIER AT WHITE GRASS AT BALD KN OB

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Get away to the Mountain Side of Maryland where you’ll find over 60,000 acres of public lands to explore. It’s the perfect destination to fully experience the outdoor adventure, history, and culinary delights that surround the meeting point of the Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Canal, named two of the 10 Best Recreational Trails in North America by USA Today. MORNING

Start your morning off in Frostburg with a breakfast sandwich and coffee from Clatter Café. From there, follow the switchback and sculpture garden to the Frostburg trailhead and hop on the Great Allegheny Passage as you cycle 16 miles from Frostburg to Cumberland. Looking to add more miles to your ride? Continue biking along the C&O Canal, celebrating its 50th Anniversary as part of the National Park System.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY ALLEGANY COUNT Y TOURIS M

A FO TRENRI N M N OG O N

Stop into the Corner Tavern & Cafe in downtown Cumberland for a taste of their house-smoked pastrami before making your way out to Rocky Gap State Park. Take the FRIENDS ENJOY A BEER TAS TIN G AT 1812 BREWERY IN CUMBERL AND, MD.

short Canyon Overlook Trail for a scenic view or hike the five-mile Lakeside Loop Trail around Lake Habeeb. If you have time, rent a canoe or kayak to view the park from the water. EVENING

LOCAL TIP

Visit the up and coming beverage scene along Frostburg’s Main Street, including a winery, distillery, and two breweries, plus several local taverns for craft beers or specialty cocktails.

Kick back and relax with a beer tasting and view of the mountains at 1812 Brewery, Allegany County’s first farm brewery located on 190 acres in a restored barn. Finish up the night at Rocky Gap Casino Resort with a casual meal at Signatures Bar and Grill or fine dining experience at Lakeside Grill, and then settle into your room after a long day on the trails.

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Tucker Co.

From the grandeur of Monongahela National Forest to the charming towns of Davis, Thomas, and Parsons, you’ll find a quiet getaway with adventure around every corner in Tucker County. Spend your day having fun in the snow, whether on skis, snowboard, snowshoes, tube, or sled, while you take in the gorgeous surroundings of winter in West Virginia. powder, plus miles of trails for cross country skiing and snowshoeing. F U N F A C T

MORNING

Start your day off right with a hearty country breakfast from Milo’s Cafe and Restaurant, conveniently located on the lower level of the Bright Morning UNUSUAL Inn. From the town of FACT Davis, it’s just a short In the valley, drive to Blackwater there are three Falls State Park ski resorts where you can spend located within hours sledding a three miles of quarter mile of fresh each other—

Canaan Valley, Timberline, and White Grass.

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AFTERNOON

Refuel with lunch at White Grass Café before putting in some hours of peaceful cross country skiing on the carefully groomed trails. Traveling with your kids? Canaan Valley Resort offers family ski lessons and access to an expansive tubing park. Do you prefer to shred on a board? Check out the brand new lifts and two terrain parks at Timberline Mountain. EVENING

After a day running around in the snow, head into Thomas for a delicious dining experience at Farm Up Table, known for its southern ﬂair, plus live music and a drink from Purple Fiddle. Warm up in your lodging for the night, whether it’s at the inn or one of the many vacation mountain homes in the area with ski in and out options. You can’t go wrong with opportunities to stay in town or amongst the mountains. SKITHEVALLEY.COM @SKITHEVALLEY @SKITHEVALLEY

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Enjoy all the Blue Ridge Mountains have to oﬀer when you visit Blairsville and Union County, Ga. From the state’s highest peak to tumbling waterfalls, discover scenic vistas no matter what trail you choose. Spend some time exploring all of the shops and restaurants of Downtown Blairsville that will keep you coming back for more before cozying up at a mountain cabin. MORNING

There’s no better way to start your morning than breakfast at The Sawmill Place where you can fill up on staples, including homemade biscuits and eggs, or try something new, like their sweet potato pancakes. From there, set out for Vogel State Park where you’ll find 17 miles of hiking trails, boat and bike rentals, fishing, and several camping options. A FO TRENRI N M N OG O N

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY VIS IT BL AIRSVILLE

For lunch, grab a deli sandwich from G&G Bakery or a barbecue sandwich from Papaw’s Bac-Yard BBQ, voted Blairsville’s Best BBQ. Relax and spend some time browsing the shops of Blairsville. At Mountain Life Mercantile VOGEL S TATE PARK

you’ll find a mix of specialty food items and hand-crafted local artwork while Mountain Crossings has all of the hiking gear you’ll need while in the area. EVENING

BUCKET LIST

Hike up Brasstown Bald, located in ChattahoocheeOconee National Forest, to Georgia’s highest point for panoramic views of four states.

Finish your day off with a taste of Blairsville. Stop by Odom Springs Vineyard for a wine tasting on the deck or Grandaddy Mimm’s Distillery for some good old-fashioned moonshine and a tour of the distilling process. Then it’s time to hit up local favorites for dinner like fresh seafood from Mike’s Seafood or a towering plate of nachos from Lucky’s Taqueria & Cantina. Start winding down as you settle in for a restful night at Misty Mountain Inn & Cottages while surrounded by the mountains.

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Gatlinburg

Winter is a magical time of year to visit Gatlinburg, Tenn., as millions of twinkling lights displayed around town make for a spectacular sight. Whether you take a self-guided lights tour or visit for the Fantasy of Lights Christmas Parade on December 3, featuring one-of-a-kind displays, bands, and ﬂoats, the whole family can discover wonder around every corner. kicks off Friday, November 19 with the Back in FUN FACT Blue Rail Jam.

MORNING O R Nday I N Ggoing at one of seven pancake GetM your houses in Gatlinburg, like an order of Sticky Bun Pancakes from Flapjacks Pancake Cabin. You’ll need the energy as you hit the slopes of Ober Gatlinburg Ski Area. In addition to skiing LOCAL TIP and snowboarding, take advantage of As the gateway indoor ice skating to Great Smoky and thrilling snow Mountains National Park, tubing. The season

you’ll ﬁnd miles of trails easily accessible from town.

AFTERNOON

Walk the Parkway looking for unique gifts from The Village Shops or The Marketplace, like handmade candies, local wines, home goods, and apparel. Visit the talented artists in the Great Smoky Arts and Crafts Community, an eight-mile loop of artisans working in pottery, wood, paint, and more. Need gear while you’re in the area? The Day Hiker and Nantahala Outdoor Center Gatlinburg are excellent stops for restocking and advice on the best trails and views around. EVENING

Gatlinburg Brewing Company is the perfect spot to end the day as you load up on craft brews and pizza with friends both old and new. Catch some live music and southern comfort food at the Blake Shelton-inspired Ole Red. Then it’s time to make your way to a cabin, hotel, or campground for the night so you’re ready to explore more the next day. THE FROS T Y FUN AT THE OBER GATLINBURG SN OW TUBIN G HILL IS AVAIL ABLE FROM N OVEMBER TO L ATE SPRIN G.

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Kentucky Trail Towns

For the best of Kentucky’s great outdoors, visit one of the 24 Kentucky Trail Towns across the state featuring a variety of activities and landscapes second to none. From high adrenaline adventures to family-friendly activities, Kentucky’s certified Trail Towns are ready to welcome explorers of all stripes. Once the adventure ends, the experience continues in these active communities. Locally-owned restaurants, shops, and places to stay combined with world-class hospitality make Kentucky Trail Towns worth visiting again and again. DAWSON SPRINGS Kentucky’s first and most western Trail Town—Dawson Springs— is home to the Pennyrile Forest State Resort Park and a state forest of the same name. A scenic lake and the Tradewater River, a tributary of the Ohio River, make for a full complement of outdoor offerings.

LIVINGSTON On the banks of the Rockcastle River, Livingston attracts a number of trail users to the Daniel Boone National Forest. A renovated school building makes an attractive visitor center where people will also find the home of the Sheltowee Trace Association.

MOREHEAD The northern terminus of the Sheltowee Trace and the shores of Cave Run Lake are the highlights for Morehead, Ky. Trails for mountain bikers and equestrians welcome trail users of all stripes. A local brewery and several local eateries make for a complete trip.

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OLIVE HILL This historical eastern Kentucky town sits on the banks of Tygart Creek and just down the road from Carter Caves State Resort Park. Several historical festivals and equestrian-focused events provide highlights throughout the year. Rock climbing and cave exploration at the state park make for a unique Trail Town experience.

LONDON The self-proclaimed Cycling Capital of Kentucky, London sits just off Interstate 75 between Lexington and Knoxville. Their cycling offerings are highlighted by the annual Redbud Ride each spring. Don’t overlook local options for bikes with knobby tires, or the portion of the Sheltowee Trace that runs just outside of town.

STEARNS Stearns, Ky. serves as the northern gateway to the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area. Surrounding the Big South Fork is the southern end of the Daniel Boone National Forest making for almost unlimited adventures to be had in and around Stearns. Thrilling whitewater runs and a growing community of trail runners are just some of the highlights.

ELKHORN CITY The eastern most Trail Town sits on the border of Virginia, and is home to Breaks Interstate Park. Explore the largest gorge east of the Mississippi River cut by the Russell Fork River, Elkhorn City and the Breaks have been home to whitewater enthusiasts for decades. The Pine Mountain State Scenic Trail and US Bike Route 76 all headline this mountain Trail Town.

JAMESTOWN Jamestown is home to Lake Cumberland, Wolf Creek Dam, the Cumberland River, and all the worldclass fishing and water sports that go along with them. Lake Cumberland State Resort Pak offers all the amenities for visitors as well as its own impressive network of trails.

MANCHESTER Gateway to the Redbird District of the Daniel Boone National Forest, Manchester is the most off-road friendly of Kentucky’s Trail Towns. Local and federal trails invite riders and a multitude of vehicles to this eastern Kentucky town. Don’t overlook the phenomenal creek fishing and paddling in and around Manchester.

HARLAN TRI-CITIES Cumberland, Lynch, and Benham Ky., are historic coal towns nestled between the mountains of Harlan County, Ky. Home to the state’s tallest point at Black Mountain, the Tri-Cities feature to numerous trails and events.

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BEREA Kentucky’s most artistic Trail Town, Berea is no stranger to attracting visitors. Recent efforts to develop and promote their outdoor offerings make Berea a uniquely situated Trail Town along US Bike Route 76 and the Boone Trace.

COLUMBIA This historic college town in southern Kentucky sits along the banks of Russell Creek, a major tributary to the Green River. A quaint downtown square and friendly people are just part of what makes Columbia a special place to visit.

R OYA LTO N Royalton’s claim to fame is the halfway point of Kentucky’s longest Rails to Trail, the Dawkins Line. This former rail line features impressive tunnels and numerous bridges. Hikers, cyclists, and equestrians will all find a place on the Dawkins Line.

SLADE The iconic Red River Gorge needs no introduction for rock climbers. Home to main stays like Natural Bridge State Resort Park and Miguel’s Pizza, Slade has a full menu of different adventures and local restaurants to explore.

MCKEE This Jackson County Trail Town sits at the intersection of the Sheltowee Trace and US Bike Route 76. In addition to these major trail systems, there is camping and trails for both off-road vehicles and equestrians.

MUNFORDVILLE On the banks of the Green River in Hart County sits Munfordville. Outside paddling and well-kept local hiking trails, Munfordville has made a name for itself as a home for elite, competitive barbecue and as a place where you may find yourself on the set of a movie.

CAVE CITY +HORSE CAVE These adjoining towns cross county lines but offer much in the way of outdoor adventure and local restaurants. Anchored by Mammoth Cave National Park, there are miles of trails, local cycling routes, caves, and even zip lines to experience.

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CAMPBELLSVILLE This southern Kentucky town is a jumping off point for visitors coming to Green River Lake State Park and its namesake reservoir. Mountain bike and equestrian trails can be found, as well as plenty of water sports and excellent fishing. Make sure to allot enough time to enjoy all downtown has to offer, including local barbecue, a coffee shop, and full-service bike shop.

HAZARD Hazard, Ky. is home to US Bike Route 76, an extensive trail network for ATVs and UTVs, and the North Fork of the Kentucky River. In recent years, local groups have developed a world-class trail system just outside of Hazard.

ESTILL TWIN CITIES Irvine and Ravenna are historic river and railroad towns in beautiful Estill County. The Kentucky River highlights current outdoor adventures, with plenty of railroad related history, attractions, and restaurants available in town.

BROWNSVILLE Another gateway to Mammoth Cave, Brownsville also provides access to Nolin Lake State Park. Mountain biking and paddling are two popular activities for visitors and locals in Brownsville. The local farmers market is one to be sure to visit if given the opportunity.

ELIZABETHTOWN Don’t be fooled by the moniker of Kentucky’s “first urban Trail Town,” Elizabethtown is full of great outdoor adventure. As the name implies, they have the community assets to fully compliment their long list of trails and parks. Local restaurants, museums, and bourbon bars are just some of what you’ll find in this central Kentucky Trail Town.

MORGANTOWN Downstream from other Trail Towns on the Green River lies Morgantown. Several river-focused events highlight the calendar for Morgantown, and a scenic downtown offers an artist guild and local businesses worth a stop.

PARK CITY Park City is a picturesque town at one end of the Mammoth Cave Railroad Hike Bike Trail, one of Kentucky’s oldest Rails to Trails. A grand old hotel now serves as a charming bed and breakfast. Local cyclists have found a welcoming rest stop in Park City. A soon to be certified Dark Sky city, Park City will offer a one-of-a-kind type of nightlife for star gazers.

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VISIONS AND BIRDSONGS Swedish singer, songwriter, and guitarist José González immersed himself in nature to find inspiration for "Local Valley," his new album, which examines our precarious place in the natural world. B Y D O U G S C H N I T Z S PA H N

PHOTO COURTESY OF JOSÉ GONZÁLEZ (PICTURED)

BORN IN SWEDEN OF PARENTS WHO

fled the Dirty War and dictatorship in Argentina, José González writes songs influenced by both the pure beauty of the Scandinavian landscape and his scientific background in biochemistry. González burst onto the American indie music scene in 2005 with the album "Veneer." In 2013, he collaborated with Ben Stiller to create music for the film "The Secret Life of Walter Mitty," and the song “Stay Alive” from that film found new life during the pandemic on playlists of those seeking some solace in a world that felt broken. González’s latest, "Local Valley," is as much an intellectual exploration as it is a collection of hauntingly lovely songs. González describes it as “a metaphor for both humanity stuck here on Earth—our local green valley in a vast, inhospitable universe—and also for two dogmatic tribes stuck in a state where they’re unable to see things from the others’ perspective, preventing them from establishing a more harmonic state.” He took the time to talk more about his philosophy and songwriting. Why did you decide to record this album in a home studio in your summer house? I had been looking for a studio for forever, but I realized that I don't need

to have a room and soundproof it in the city if I just have a summer house. So I wrote and recorded this album 45 minutes north of Gothenburg along the coast. The view from the house looks out on nothing but woods and rocks. It's been fantastic to have that view when I'm writing. Then, as soon as I have my demos, I go out for runs or walks or take a dip in the ocean. It's been a great switch for me in my life to be closer to nature. And you included birdsong on some of the tracks. When I was writing and recording the album, I was hearing birds all the time outside of the house. When I started recording, I couldn't hear them. So I set out to record them one evening, and I started using them on the songs. I wanted to use them on the whole album, but it was too much so I just used them on three songs. Tell us more about the metaphor of the local valley from which the album gets its name. I’m inspired by Carl Sagan and his book "Pale Blue Dot." Even though we're a lot of people here, this planet is still this little rock out in a dark and uninhabitable space. Nature and the universe don't really care about us. We have to make this valley as good

as possible for ourselves. So I really resonate with this metaphor of the pale blue dot, the local valley. More specifically, in terms of climate change, the last 10,000–12,000 years have been extremely stable. We've been in this global state that we seem to be destabilizing. So we need to get our shit together. I think science and research is the way to try to figure out how we can make a thermostat so we can continue living in a Holocene-like state. What’s giving you hope in the darkness and bad news in the world? There's a book by MIT professor McAfee called "More From Less." He talks about whales coming back. And there are good examples of us using less land and giving back. How do you write songs with these ideas in them, but not make them too heady? From song to song, I'm trying to strike a balance that’s not too preachy, that’s open-minded. With a song like “Visions,” I've been pretty bold in my ambitions. But then I also have sillier songs that aren't really preachy. I'm opening myself up on this album in terms of what I'm thinking about, so I'm more direct than ever. In a way, it was easier to write. I don't feel like I need to

hide behind an enigmatic stance. When you make observations out in nature, what are you looking for? I think I'm pretty good at switching between the romantic who just goes out at sunset and sits there with a beer and a scientist who goes down into the details about molecules and environmental issues and problems. It depends on what you want to do. But if we go down to the archipelago near Gothenburg, we can sit close to the water on one of the rocks and take a swim and enjoy a sandwich. You stand against dogmatism of all kinds. How do you think we can move away from political polarization? People may think of me as liberal, but I do my best to listen. For example, I have read a couple of right-wing economists. I’ve also read social psychologists like Jonathan Height who try to pinpoint differences in ways of thinking between left and right. Some of these ways of thinking may be rooted in our evolutionary psychology. I do my best to try to be anti-dogmatic, to be able to change my mind. I know it's an impossible mission to try to always change our mind toward the better, but if you have that ambition, at least you won't get stuck as often you would have otherwise.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

ADVENTURE ADDICTION

CONFESSIONS OF A CROSSCOUNTRY SKI JUNKIE As winter approaches, it’s hard craving powder in the inconsistently snowy South. B Y G R A H A M AV E R I L L

LISTEN, DEAR READER, AS I GIVE YOU

some key advice: Don’t start crosscountry skiing. It looks like such a peaceful way to spend a winter day, but trust me, it’s a trap. Cross-country skiing is a cruel mistress who will promise a lifetime of bliss, only to rip your heart out and leave you wanting more. I speak from experience. I write this from the depths of my own love affair with the sport, an affair that has me so head over heels I don’t know which way is up anymore. You can disregard that warning if you live in the Northeast or Rocky Mountains or even large swaths of the Midwest… really any place that sees a consistent amount of snowfall. If your winters are typically white, then by all means, get yourself a pair of skinny skis and shush away, as cross-country skiing can offer a lifetime of fun and exercise. Bully for you and your white winters. But if you live in the Southern Appalachians like I do, heed my warning. Because the typical winter in these mountains delivers just enough snow to get you hooked on XC skiing, but not enough to actually quench your thirst for the sport. Cross-country skiing is addictive. I’d put it right up there with caffeine and nicotine. They should put warning labels on the skis. Here’s the irony: I didn’t pick up cross-country skiing until I moved back to the South. I spent years in the Rockies watching people on skinny skis shush around town wondering why the hell they bothered, only to discover my own passion for the sport after I moved hundreds of miles from the nearest snowy peak. That’s like moving from California to Ohio and getting really into surfing. But alas, I am hooked. A mindless XC junkie who can only think of his next fix.

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

It starts out innocently enough; a heavy snow falls and a friend or neighbor has an extra pair of skis they’ll let you borrow. Why not? You’ll just try it out once. What could it hurt? And it’s fun! Sure, it’s awkward…you fall a lot… but you can’t deny that skiing without a lift has its charms. There’s a moment on a slight downhill where you recapture that giddy joy of youth, just like the first time you rode downhill on a bicycle. It is new and exhilarating and as soon as you hand in your borrowed skis, you want some more. So, you order a pair of skis and boots and you wait for the next storm. And you wait. Your desire for more turns growing with every winter week that passes, every promising storm that fizzles out. Cross-country skiing starts to dominate your thoughts. Maybe it’s the

fact that you can’t have it that makes you want it so much. Like those kids dancing in Footloose. If they could dance all the time, maybe they wouldn’t want to do it so much. You imagine the hill in your front yard, covered in snow, a playground for your skinny skis. Because Mother Nature refuses to cooperate, you’ll price out the cost of installing your own snow guns on your quarter-acre lot and weigh that against the price of college for your firstborn. He always seemed like more of a technical school kind of kid, anyway, right? You spend hours staring at your computer screen, devouring forums and Facebook groups that are dedicated to the fleeting joy of XC skiing in the South, looking for beta on your favorite cross-country ski hotspots. There are a few mountain peaks and high elevation gravel road systems that escape the scratch of the road plow. You and your fellow junkies all converge on these same spots when the snow does fall. You find yourself up late at night, messaging random strangers who claim to have skied one of those spots

recently, asking about snow depth and quality and typing the most desperate question of them all: “Think the snow will last until tomorrow?” It doesn’t matter how they respond; you’re already planning to make that two-hour drive in the morning knowing full well that you might be skiing an inch of slush and ice over gravel. A bad fix is better than no fix at all. You’ll become a groupie of meteorologists, following dozens of them on social media. This might be rock bottom of your addiction. You’ll start analyzing forecasts, favoring “European models” that promise more snow than those pessimistic “American models.” You’ll comb through topographic maps, looking for abnormally high elevation mountains near your home, as if you (and the rest of the world) might have overlooked a 6,000-footer sitting on the edge of town that sucks up snow during storms. Long stretches of drought without any measurable snow will have you ready to kick the habit altogether. You’d sell your gear at a local used gear shop, but they won’t take it because, as the sales guy says, “winters just aren’t consistent enough anymore." No shit. So, you hang onto your skinny skis and soft boots and then, out of nowhere, there will be a glorious dump of snow that hits your town hard, so hard that you can ski through your neighborhood, surfing the hills in the local park and kick/gliding right up to a bar on the edge of town. There is nothing sweeter in this world than cross-country skiing to a bar and ordering a beer. Nothing. When that snow does fall, you’ll find yourself skipping work. You won’t even bother to make up an excuse, you just won’t show up. Ditto familial duties. There is no family or work when there’s 4” of fresh snow on the local golf course for you to kick and glide! Your oldest kid is almost 6, anyway. He should be taking care of himself by now if he wants any shot at getting into that inexpensive technical school that’s in his future. And the addiction cycle starts over again. You’re fresh off of a hit and riding high, already tuning in to your favorite meteorologist for the next forecast, jonesing for the next storm, the next high. If you’re smart, you’ll heed my advice and steer clear of skinny skis altogether. Or maybe don’t listen to me. Maybe I’m just a junkie who wants all of the snow for himself.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

THE OUT AND BACK

PERSPECTIVE

CRITICAL PROTECTION

THE CLIMATE CRISIS HAS AN EVIL TWIN The solution to both starts in the South. BY WILL HARLAN

WE OWE OUR EXISTENCE TO AN

asteroid. Had a six-mile-wide space rock not crashed into the Yucatan Peninsula 66 million years ago, dinosaurs would still dominate the planet, and mammals like us would still be small and scurrying underfoot. The meteor impact triggered climate change, wildfires, and ocean acidification across the planet that annihilated three-quarters of all species. It was the most recent of five mass extinctions that have nearly wiped out life on Earth. Today, we are in the midst of a sixth mass extinction, and we are the asteroid. We have destroyed so much habitat globally that over one million animal and plant species are threatened with extinction, including half of all amphibians and turtles and a quarter of all birds and mammals. Climate change is finally grabbing headlines, and deservedly so. But few people are talking about its existential twin: the extinction crisis.

I L L U S T R AT I O N C O U R T E S Y O F G E T T Y I M A G E S

It’s All About Us

Now more than ever, we live in a human-centered world. We’ve altered 97 percent of all land on the planet. With our population approaching eight billion, humans are all that matter, it seems. We’ve even coined a new geologic epoch for ourselves: the Anthropocene. So why should we care about other species in the Age of Humans? It’s sad to lose polar bears, but we don’t need them to survive. All we need are factory-farmed animals and our pets, and we’re good. The problem is this: killing the species and systems that support us is suicide. Species make oxygen, medicine, food, and soil. If nothing else, we need species to clean up our mess by filtering the air we breathe and the water we drink. Economists

estimate that the total value of ecosystem services that wild species provide us—for free—is around $145 trillion. That’s nearly twice as large as the global GDP. We still have a lot to learn from the fellow species spinning on this tiny blue dot with us. Salamanders can regrow limbs and organs. Spider silk is stronger than steel. Rare plants have provided new cancer drugs and may provide the cure for the next pandemic. But nature is more than a resource. And species aren’t just service providers. They are our distant relatives. They deserve at least a fighting chance to keep living.

23 and Me

Last month, 23 species were officially declared extinct by the U.S Fish and Wildlife Service. Species that had been on Earth for millions of years were gone forever, and it was completely because of us. Every major media outlet covered the announcement, and for a few days, extinction was one of the top trending keyword searches on Google—ahead of Britney Spears, Tom Brady, and David Lee Roth. Nine of the 23 extinct species announced were from the South, including eight freshwater mussels and the iconic ivory-billed woodpecker, which disappeared when its last Southern forests were cut. The Southern

U.S. is one of the most speciesrich spots on the planet. Southern Appalachia is the salamander capital of the world, and the South is home to more freshwater fish and aquatic species than anywhere else on Earth. It is also one of the most threatened. Southern forests are more heavily logged than the Amazon. The fossil fuel industry has polluted many of our rivers and streams, and runaway development has destroyed wildlife habitat faster than anywhere in the continent. Atlanta is the fastest sprawling city in the history of civilization. There’s a lot at stake here. And as the climate crisis worsens, more species are moving. Southern Appalachia is a critical corridor of protected public lands in the East and a global biodiversity hotspot. We can pillage it or protect it.

Two for One

The climate and extinction crises are inseparable. We can’t solve one without addressing the other. And the first and easiest solution to both crises are exactly the same: protect more forests. Deforestation—primarily for agriculture and development—is the second largest contributor to climate emissions (behind burning fossil fuels), and it is the number-one killer of species. Protecting more forests and wild habitat is the most critical species solution—and

also the cheapest and easiest climate solution. It requires no expensive geoengineering or carbon sequestration technologies; nature does all the work for us—for free. Of course, protecting more forests has added benefits, like more trails to hike and bike, cleaner rivers to paddle, and more sustainable rural economies. Recreation has become the country’s economic engine, larger than mining or agriculture. More protected public spaces can alleviate crowded parks and provide outdoor access for all. Environmental justice in the South increasingly depends on protecting rural Black communities and their forests, which have been targets of the timber and biomass industries.

Better Together

Humans may be dominant like the dinosaurs, but we are already feeling our own meteoric impact. We are clearing 27 football fields of forests every minute. We’re losing a species every five minutes. The solution is stunningly simple: protect more natural habitat. We can start right here in the South—home to rare flying squirrels, the most freshwater mussel species, the largest loggerhead sea turtle nesting site, the last right whale calving grounds, and the most endangered wolves in the world. If we really value diversity, can we extend its worth to the species keeping ours alive? E.O. Wilson proposed setting aside half of the Earth for other species. The United Nations is aiming for 30 x 30—safeguarding 30 percent of land and ocean by 2030. The Biden administration’s America the Beautiful Initiative proposes a similar target for the United States. The lineages of life with whom we share this planet have survived numerous asteroids and supervolcanoes. They have endured ice ages and the breakup of continents. We owe our lives to these survivors. Can we make space for them? It’s the biggest question that we aren’t really asking. And the answer will shape the future of life on Earth. They were here first. Without them, we won’t last. WHAT YOU CAN DO: Take action right

now to protect dozens of species across the Southeast—including the monarch butterflies, sea turtles, and wolves at biologicaldiversity.org/action/alerts.

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

THE GOODS

ADVENTURE PRESENTS

THE BIG OUTDOOR GIFT GUIDE

LIFE IN TENTS 16-FOOT FERNWEH CANVAS BELL TENT

TRAILBREAKER FULLZIP HOODIE

It’s time to start thinking about the perfect gifts for the outdoor enthusiasts in your life. To make that holiday shopping easier, we curated this impressive list of the stuff gear lovers will want most for this season. B Y D O U G S C H N I T Z S PA H N

Orvis

Superfine Glass Rods

There’s nothing like the feel of a fiberglass rod—the slow action and precise placement they give you harken back to those slower days in the 1950s and ’60s when glass was king. Orvis’ present-day interpretation is just as sweet and ideal for the narrow streams and tricky waters of Appalachia. The rods come in sizes ranging from a creek-friendly 6-foot, 6-inch 2 weight to a beefy 8-foot, 8 inch 8 weight. All cast like butter. $449; orvis.com

Rab

Xenair Alpine Jacket

This multi-functional, 15.8-ounce layer can hold its own on brisk winter walks through the woods but also serves as a toasty midlayer when the mercury really drops. And while that makes it a nice piece for daily rambling, it really comes into its own in the backcountry, where the synthetic insulation breathes when you heat up and provides warmth when it gets cool. Rab is committed to sustainability, too, and the jacket gets its performance qualities from 55% recycled PrimaLoft Gold Active+ synthetic insulation. $225; rab. equipment

Dometic

CFX3 75DZ

The cooler of your dreams does not just keep your beers chilled; it will keep goodies frozen when you are off the grid, too. The ultimate powered cooler can be operated via Bluetooth from your phone, making it the perfect gift for the tech-savvy gearheads in your life. $1,400; dometic.com

DOMETIC CFX3 75DZ

Minus33

Trailbreaker Full-Zip Hoodie

This fifth-generation New Hampshire-based wool manufacturer impressed us with the soft hand feel and warmth of its plush merino midlayers. And what better gift is there than comfort? Best of all, it comes with a one-year warranty. $140; minus33.com

OSPREY HERITAGE WAISTPACK

Osprey

Heritage Waistpack

Don’t call it a fanny pack. Yes, this waistpack can be worn similar to one of those, but you can also sling it over your shoulder for casual carrying. It’s built from sustainable, Bluesign-approved materials and swallows enough stuff for a long day on the trail. $60; osprey.com

RAB XENAIR ALPINE JACKET

ORVIS SUPERFINE GLASS RODS

Life in Tents

16-foot Fernweh Canvas Bell Tent

Here's a roomy, airy tent that can serve as anything from basecamp to outdoor office. The traditional construction is hip, but don’t just love it because it looks dreamy—the double-weave Army duck cotton canvas is far more durable than many technical fabrics. Mark this one down as a present for the whole family. $1,590; lifeintents.com NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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Cardo

Packtalk Ski

Keeping your crew in line on the ski hill can be a challenge when everyone’s moving at a different pace. This speaker system keeps you all in communication with clear audio that automatically adjusts volume according to wind interference and connects up to 15 people with up to eight hours of talk time. $250; cardosystems.com

BioLite

AlpenGlow 500

This groovy LED lantern features a wide choice of light modes that can either replicate the glow of sunrise and sunset or power up a campground cribbage game. And when you want to get funky it will cycle through a range of colors for a festival feel no matter where you are. $80; bioliteenergy.com

pounds, this durable stainless steel model folds up flat for easy transport. $160; primus.us

Stegmann Eco Wool Clogs

Once you slip into a pair of these wool clogs you won’t want to take them off. They make the ideal cool-weather shoe around a cabin or just lounging at home on a lazy weekend. And you can feel even better wearing them since the wool itself is sourced only from small farms who care compassionately for their animals. $150; stegmannusa.com

CARDO PACKTALK SKI

PRIMUS KAMOTO FIRE PIT

Primus

Kamoto Fire Pit

The portable fire pit has become a must-carry item for car campers in these days of too many wildfires and crowded campgrounds. You can cozy up anywhere you park your vehicle, create a safe conflagration, and not make a mess. Weighing just under 14

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Arc’teryx Agrium Hoody

Sure, this warm, incredibly packable jacket may cost a bit more than your standard puffy—but we guarantee you will own it far longer. It’s crafted with both performance and sustainability in mind with RDS-certified, 850-fill European white goose down and Bluesign-approved synthetic insulation that provides plenty of loft and bounces back in a hurry after you have scrunched it down into your pack. $400; arcteryx.com

Brunton

Teton Topo Compass

The taste—sweet and rich with just the right amount of apple—proves that backwoods pedigree matters. It’s a drink that goes down easy anywhere (and fits well in a stocking). $25; howlingmoonshine.com

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Prana

Marin Beanie

Simple, always in style, and cozy, this hat is a gift sure to please. It’s made with recycled polyester so there’s no guilt involved, and it’s one-size-fitsall for easy shopping. $40; prana.com

PRANA MARIN BEANIE

Do you have to own a compass these days when you can access every bit of geographical info you need on your phone? No. But this sleek, 2.2-ounce piece makes one hell of a gift and there’s a chance you just might need its ability to find north when your battery dies. $200; brunton.com

Howling Moon Apple Pie Moonshine

Here’s moonshine from the source, as the boys at Howling Moon date their distilling endeavors back to before the Whiskey Rebellion in the 18th century.

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TRAIL MIX

FRESH TUNES

OUR FAVORITE SONGS IN NOVEMBER Tune in to Trail Mix, our monthly playlist of new music, mainly focusing on independent artists from the South. In November we’re highlighting fresh tunes from My Morning Jacket and Norman Blake, and a tribute to the late guitarist Neal Casal. B Y J E D D F E R R I S A N D D AV E S T A L L A R D

MY MORNING JACKET

“Love Love Love” — The members

of My Morning Jacket know what the world needs now. Endless positivity radiates from this anthem found on the Kentucky rockers' new self-titled album, which dropped last month. The title is repeated like a mantra as Jim James and company try to channel good vibes in divisive times. Sonically, the song is ripe for a workout on the live stage, with a propulsive backbeat, chunky guitar riffs, and vibrant harmonies. – J.F. SPENCER CULLUM

his twilight years. Now 83, Blake has just released “Day By Day,” his fifth album in ten years. On “Time,” the only original tune amid a collection of folk standards, Blake hasn’t slipped a bit; his guitar playing remains crisp and rich and his baritone voice ripples through an ode to memories and the passing of time with the experience only gained from decades in front of a microphone. – D.S.

“Imminent Shadow”

MARCUS KING WITH ERIC KRASNO

— A well-known pedal steel guitar whiz and an in-demand session player who’s worked with the likes of Dolly Parton, Miranda Lambert, and Kesha, Spencer Cullum creates a melancholic mood with his own music, immersing himself in the pastoral psychedelia of 70s British folk. This hauntingly beautiful track from his debut solo album “Spencer Cullum’s Coin Collection” vividly channels the eerie introspection of Nick Drake with gently cascading acoustic guitar work and mysterious lyrics that sound like they’re narrating a strange dream. – J.F. NORMAN BLAKE

Time — Norman Blake, Americana

icon and octogenarian, refuses to fade silently into what most would consider

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

“No One Above You” — The music world misses Neal Casal. The late guitarist was long affiliated with Ryan Adams & The Cardinals, the Chris Robinson Brotherhood, and Hard Working Americans, but he was also a prolific songwriter, releasing 14 records of his own. Recently 130 musicians, including King and Krasno, came together to celebrate Casal’s life and legacy, recording 41 of his songs on “Highway Butterfly: The Songs of Neal Casal.” “No One Above You” is a standout in a collection that is a stellar tribute to a talent lost too soon. – D.S.

Recently, DeNicola—known for penning THE song from the 1987 movie smash “Dirty Dancing”—retreated to a barn in upstate New York to craft his second album. “High,” with its trippy synth and falsetto disco harmonies, is a seventies soul throwback, grooving smooth with the reminder that love can take us wherever we need to go. – D.S. JASON ISBELL & THE 400 UNIT WITH BRITTNEY SPENCER

“Midnight Train to Georgia” — Backed

JOHN DENICOLA

by Jason Isbell & the 400 Unit, singer Brittney Spencer lends her sultry pipes to a soulful cover of Gladys Knight & the Pips’ “Midnight Train to Georgia.” The track comes from Isbell and his band’s new set “Georgia Blue,” an album of covers of 13 songs with ties to the Peach State. Isbell promised to make the record, which also includes takes on Driver 8 by R.E.M. and the Allman Brothers Band’s “In Memory of Elizabeth Reed,” if Georgia voted for Joe Biden in the 2020 election. – J.F.

“High” — Oscar and Golden Globe

THE TRAGICALLY HIP

winner John DeNicola had five decades in the music business behind him before releasing his debut album in 2019.

"Fiddler's Green" — To celebrate the 30th anniversary of “Road Apples,”

A N E W 4 1 - S O N G C O L L E C T I O N , “ H I G H WAY B U T T E R F L Y: T H E S O N G S O F N E A L C A S A L , ” H O N O R S T H E L AT E G U I TA R I S T ( P I C T U R E D ) . P H O T O B Y J AY B L A K E S B E R G

the Tragically Hip are releasing an expansive box set featuring a treasure trove of unreleased material, live cuts, and a remastered version of the original record. Included is a stripped-to-thebone take of “Fiddler’s Green,” featuring only front man Gord Downie on vocals and Rob Baker on guitar. This intimate recording pulls taut on the heartstrings, as the 2017 passing of Downie still weighs heavy on fans of the Hip. – D.S. NATHAN EVANS FOX

“Carolina Boy” — Nashville tunesmith

Nathan Fox reflects on the need to escape small-town life for better opportunities in the earnest country tune “Carolina Boy,” which comes from the singer-songwriter’s new album “Wasted Love.” Amid an atmospheric arrangement, Fox sounds solemn and contrite as he lists off the myriad troubles he’s witnessed as a result of rural ennui. But it's ultimately a bit of his mother’s wisdom that validates the decision to leave home for greener pastures. – J.F. To hear these songs and more, follow the Blue Ridge Outdoors’ Trail Mix playlist on Spotify.

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Abingdon & Damascus, Virginia Two towns just 12 miles from each other that offer the ultimate outdoor experience. Come and see us! Make Abingdon your base camp for outdoor adventure! Located in the Blue Ridge mountains of Southwest Virginia, the town of Abingdon is known for its artsy vibe, culinary experiences, historic charm, and its proximity to some of the most spectacular outdoor recreation in the state. Damascus is known best as Trail Town USA, where several nationally known trails intersect within our borders, but we are so much more! We are a place of stunning natural beauty, where the hills and peaks of the Appalachian Mountains and the murmuring of our creeks inspire you, whether your calling is outdoor adventure, or simply living in an authentic small town.

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