DECEMBER 2016
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BUCKET LIST
38 Favorite Adventures
ICE CLIMBING
EXPLORING THE FROZEN SIDE
OUTDOOR D-BAGS
MEET THE WORST
WINTER RESORT GUIDE ADVERTISING SEC TION
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PAY TO PLAY? | HIKING VIKING’S WINTER THRU-HIKE | TOP 10 ALBUMS OF 2016
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December 2016 CONTENTS
photo by KRISTIAN JACKSON
FEATURES DEPARTMENTS
19 WINTER BUCKET LIST
Juggling marathoner • Wifecarrying competition • Bald eagle rescued in West Virginia • Cowboy stops bike thief
The outdoors in winter offers clearer skies, better views, and quieter trails. We’ve sourced 38 of the best winter adventures across nine different states to keep your outdoor mojo intact till spring.
10 FLASHPOINT
27 ON THIN ICE
8 QUICK HITS
Do hunters and anglers’ permits also give them more influence in management decisions? Should hikers, bikers, and other user groups pay to play?
15 THE DIRT
The Hiking Viking completes a winter A.T. thru-hike
47 THE GOODS
Snowshoe terrain park manager Phillip Yates picks his favorite gear for winter adventure.
58 TRAIL MIX
10 best albums of 2016 from artists with Southern roots. COVER PHOTO BY
Stock up for the Holidays
Hang on to your ice picks and dig in with your crampons as we follow intrepid ice climbers up frozen waterfalls and melting ice floes.
49 OUTDOOR D-BAGS
In the outdoors, as in life, you will encounter personalities that repel you and rub you the wrong way. It’s time to meet the worst people in the outdoor world.
55 PAUL'S BOOTS
Paul Evans died before he could fulfill his dream of thru-hiking the A.T. So friends—and strangers—decided to carry his boots along the entire trail in his memory.
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CONTRIBUTORS
PRESIDENT
BLAKE DEMASO
ED ITOR I N C H I E F
WILL HARLAN
will@blueridgeoutdoors.com PUBLISHER
LEAH WOODY
leah@blueridgeoutdoors.com A RT D I R E C TO R
MEGAN JORDAN
megan@blueridgeoutdoors.com
Editorial & Production JEDD FERRIS
S EN I O R E D ITOR
jedd@blueridgeoutdoors.com TRAV E L E D ITO R
JESS DADDIO
jess@blueridgeoutdoors.com S EN I O R D E S I G N E R
LAUREN WALKER
lauren@blueridgeoutdoors.com GRAPHIC DESIGNER
PAIGELEE CHANCELLOR
paigelee@blueridgeoutdoors.com C ON T R I B UTO RS
MASON ADAMS, GRAHAM AVERILL, LUCIE HANES, LAURA INGLES, WADE MICKLEY, DAVE STALLARD, DANIELLE TAYLOR C O P Y E D ITO RS
JULIA GREEN, ROBERT MCGEE Advertising & Business
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MOST EMBARRASSING MOMENT ON THE SLOPES? BLAKE DEMASO Skiing under the ropes and realizing it was blocked because it was a sheet of ice. Fell and broke my collarbone.
EVANS PRATER My first time skiing when I was 12, I thought I'd try a black diamond. I yardsaled the first third and walked down the rest. "Get out of the way, kid!" was yelled several times in my direction.
DAVE STALLARD Snowboarding for the first time last year, I fell harder than I have ever fallen. I think my spine met my sternum.
CHARLI KERNS I high-fived a tree with my body and board.
SE N I OR AC C OU N T E X E C UT I V E
MARTHA EVANS
martha@blueridgeoutdoors.com AC C OU N T E X E C UT I V E / D I G ITA L P U B L I S H E R
DUSTY ALLISON
dusty@blueridgeoutdoors.com
RANDY JOHNSON My first time skiing Europe, I missed it that "ski circus" means interconnected lifts lead from town to town. When it got dark, I was stranded miles from where I started.
SKI
GIVEAWAY 12/5 - 12/31 ENTER TO WIN A PAIR OF BLIZZARD BONAFIDE SKIS
AC C OU N T E X E C UT I V E
KATIE HARTWELL
katie@blueridgeoutdoors.com B U S I N E S S MA N AG E R
MELISSA GESSLER
melissa@blueridgeoutdoors.com CIRCULATION MANAGER
HANNAH COOPER
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Digital Media CRAIG SNODGRASS
O N L I N E D I R E C TO R
webdir@blueridgeoutdoors.com D I G ITA L ME D I A S P E C I A L I ST
TRAVIS HALL
travishall@blueridgeoutdoors.com
WILL HARLAN Naked snow angels.
JESS DADDIO Selfie stick GoPro recording myself crashing into a beginner snowboarder.
MASON ADAMS I first learned to snowboard on a date. Just when I was getting the hang of it, the board caught an edge and slammed me into the ground at her feet. I did get a kiss out of it.
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The old yard-sale double eject under the chairlift usually does it.
LEAH WOODY A few years back I signed up for a beginner ski lesson because it had been a long time since I last skied. But once I got on the snow it all came back to me. I had to tell the instructor that I forgot I knew how to ski. D E C E M B E R 2 016 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M
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QUICK HITS
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BEYOND THE BLUE RIDGE THE JUGGLING MARATHONER Michal Kapral finished the Chicago Marathon with an impressive time of 2:55:25. Even more impressive? He did it while juggling three balls throughout the entire race without dropping any of the balls a single time. Kapral, 43 and from Toronto, is part of a small group of competitive runners called “jogglers,” who, as the name suggests, run and juggle at the same time. Kapral currently holds Guinness World Records for fastest joggling marathon (2:50:12) and half marathon (1:20:40). His latest feat, the fastest joggling marathon without a drop, is an unofficial record, since Guinness rules let jogglers drop balls, as long they pick them up and start juggling again at the exact same spot.
SHORTS
BLUE RIDGE BRIEFS by JEDD FERRIS NEW NORTH CAROLINA BIKE LAWS Every year an average of 19 cyclists are killed and approximately 600 are hurt on North Carolina roads. This fall, new state laws went into effect in an effort to improve safety for bikers and encourage greater cooperation with motorists. As of October 1, drivers can now pass cyclists in no-passing zones as long as they have a clear view ahead and give the bikers at least four feet of distance. Penalties, though, have become stiffer for drivers who force cyclists to change lanes or cause biker injuries, including increased fines and possible license suspensions. Also, starting on December 1, cyclists riding after dark are required to have both front and rear lights visible from at least 300 feet. A bright and reflective vest with the same visibility range can be substituted for the rear light. LIBRARY ON THE A.T. Appalachian Trail thru-hikers can find new reading material when they pass through Pearisburg, Va. A new library was recently built and given to the A.T. hostel that’s located on the grounds of Holy Family Catholic Church in the small Giles County town. After an effort organized by the local Rotary Club, the tiny white house filled with books was built by students at Narrows High School and donated to the hostel with hikers in mind. According to the Roanoke Times, hikers are encouraged to take books, and when done reading, leave them at trail shelters or pass them on to other hikers. 8
MAN RESCUES BALD EAGLE IN WEST VIRGINIA When Seth Kiriluk stopped at the Dirtbean coffee shop in Marlinton earlier this fall, he was planning to get some work done on his laptop. But when a cyclist on the nearby Greenbrier River Trail came into the shop and told Kiriluk, district executive for Buckskin Council of Boy Scouts of America’s Seneca District, he saw an injured bald eagle along the trail, his day took a different turn. Determined to help the bird, Kiriluk received advice from the owner of a wildlife sanctuary, then went to the trail to capture the bald eagle and bring it to safety. With help from Greenbrier River Trail Superintendent Jody Spencer, who provided a large blanket and carrier box, Kiriluk was able to secure the bird after
B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S / D E C E M B E R 2 01 6
illustration by WADE MICKLEY
a bit of a struggle. “It started hissing and doing its thing, but after a short, entertaining tussle/ standoff, I eventually managed to wrap it up in the blanket and put it in the box,” Kiriluk told the Charleston Gazette-Mail. Kiriluk then took the eagle, a five- or six-year-old female to the Greenbrier Veterinary Hospital in Lewisburg, where she was treated for bite marks on her right wing and punctures on her left foot, all presumed to have come from an animal attack. The eagle was then transferred to Three Rivers Avian Center, where as of press time it was being rehabilitated for hopefully an eventual release back into the wild.
WIFE-CARRYING COMP In October, 44 couples took the starting line at the 17th annual North American Wife Carrying Championship in Newry, Maine. Men carry their brides across a 278-yard course filled with mud pits, sand traps, and log hurdles. Winning couple Elliot and Giana Storey finished the race in 59.18 seconds and took home $665 and 11 cases of Goose Island beer. That seemingly random prize was awarded based on Gina’s weight in beer and five times her weight in cash. The couple also earned a spot to compete in the wife-carrying world championship in Finland. COWBOY STOPS BIKE THIEF Robert Borba, a 28-year-old cattle rancher from Oregon, recently made national news when he stopped a bike thief with some old-school cowboy heroics. Borba was in a Wal-Mart parking lot when he heard a woman start screaming, “Stop him! He stole my bike!” Borba saw the suspected thief pedaling by, and with only his horse and lasso as a means to help, he did what he does best: “A couple swings and then I threw it at him, just like I would a steer,” he told CBS News. Borba then tied the suspect to a tree and waited for the police to arrive.
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PAY TO PLAY
HUNTERS AND FISHERMEN HAVE PAID FOR CONSERVATION SINCE THE ’30S. MAYBE IT’S TIME FOR OTHER OUTDOOR RECREATIONALISTS TO ANTE UP. by MASON ADAMS
B
efore they were stuffed full of hikers, bikers, paddlers and rock-climbers, the Great Outdoors were home to hunters and fishermen. Today, people who hunt and fish continue to foot the bill for most of America’s wildlife conservation, even as their numbers relative to other outdoor recreational pursuits have declined. Is it time for non-take recreationalists to step up and provide more funding for management of public wildlands? Whitney Tilt thinks so. Two years ago, the Montana-based natural resource conservation consultant and Conservation BenchMarks principal argued in an opinion piece for the Property and Environment Research Center that recreationalists should chip in to fund public lands agencies through the “user pays, user benefits” model. That funding mechanism was pioneered in the 1930s with the Migratory Bird Hunting Stamp Act, known as the Duck Stamp Act, and the Federal Aid in Wildlife Restoration Act, known as the Pittman-Robertson Act, which funded wildlife conservation through the sale of duck hunting stamps and an excise tax on sporting arms, ammunition, archery equipment, and handguns, with revenue going into special funds which then were redistributed back to states based on size and their share of licensed hunters. The Sport Fish Restoration Program, established for fishermen in the ’50s, is based on the same model.
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“The North American model of wildlife conservation has been successful because it’s been supported by the very people who like to hunt and fish,” Tilt says. “Let’s expand that to what is now most of the fastest growing segment of outdoor users.” For Tilt, that would mean applying a similar excise tax on products associated with outdoors. The exact mix remains uncertain— certain products like tents and kayaks seem obvious, while others, such as backpacks, are more muddled since they have a broader customer base than just hikers. Tilt was part of a coalition that advocated for such a proposal in the late ’80s, but it ground to a halt before a congressional committee in 1991. Prospects don’t look much
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better today. Many Republican lawmakers have signed a “no tax” pledge, enforced by the threat of being challenged in a primary by an even more conservative candidate. Those tax-adverse GOP legislators control the House of Representatives, as well as most southeastern state legislatures. Other alternatives exist, though. Specialty license plates have become especially popular, with revenues often dedicated to particular programs. In Virginia, an Appalachian Trail plate depicting the McAfee Knob overlook is available, with the Appalachian Trail Conservancy receiving $15 of the $25 fee. The group has used that money to pay a full-time runner to patrol the most trafficked stretches of trail
MOUNTAIN BIKERS RIDE THE TRAILS AT CARVINS COVE IN ROANOKE, VIRGINIA. photo by A.E. LANDES PHOTOGRAPHY
for six months out of the year. That individual has been complemented by 30 trained volunteers who work those trail sections with heavy use. Similarly, members of International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA) chapters often participate in maintaining and rebuilding sections of trail. “The Charlottesville Area Mountain Bike Club is pretty much solely maintaining and building the trails that I’m aware of here in the national and state forest near Charlottesville and in central Virginia,” says Dave Stackhouse,
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who sits on the CAMBC’s board of directors. “There wouldn’t be open trails here if not for mountain bikers. That’s pay to play.” Indeed, sweat equity marks another form of user fees, as federal and state agencies have increasingly come to rely on volunteer labor on public lands. Of course, parking and trail fees—which is what most people envision when they hear the term “user fees”—are charged on many, but not all, public lands. Many state and national parks charge entrance fees, although Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the Blue Ridge Parkway remain notable exceptions. Near Roanoke, the 12,700-acre reserve around Carvin’s Cove, a reservoir that serves as a regional drinking water supply, has become a mountain biking and trail running hotspot. The regional water authority charges $2 per day or $20 for a yearly pass, with revenues covering staffing, security and the maintenance of two fire roads. Although the implementation of entrance fees at all public wildlands looks to be a non-starter, both logistically and politically, some groups who are otherwise opposed to the prospect see potential for their use as a management tool at specific sites. Roanoke Appalachian Trail Club President Diana Christopulos cites the primary access to McAfee Knob as an example. On weekends in season, the trail often sees between 300 and 600 hikers, most of whom jockey for parking in a small lot owned by the National Park Service. Applying a fee to park in the lot could aid in moderating traffic, which has grown by a factor of 10 in the last decade, while also providing revenue for additional staffing, she says. “That four miles of trail is busier than the other 116 miles that we manage,” Christopulos says. “We spend probably 50 percent of our time on that stretch. We could use pay to play in the sense that we could use 12
more staffing to help manage it and also control the amount of parking going on up there.” The question of pay-to-play raises a related issue: As hikers, bikers, paddlers, and other recreationalists put more skin in the game, should they have more of a say in how public lands are managed? After all, agencies give more weight to hunters and fishermen because they pay for licenses. Right? Not really. “When fishing and game commissions meet, they don’t ask everyone in the audience to hold up their hunting and fishing license or they can’t talk,” Tilt says. Athan Manuel, the Sierra Club’s director of lands protection program and its lead lobbyist on public lands issues, agrees, saying federal public lands agencies regularly include environmentalists and non-take recreationalists in policy discussions. “Public lands agencies are pretty good at being open to all constituencies,” Manuel says. “I don’t think user fees help you advocate
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MOUNTAIN BIKING ORGANIZATIONS POUR A LOT OF SWEAT EQUITY INTO TRAIL SYSTEMS ON PUBLIC LANDS. photo by A.E. LANDES PHOTOGRAPHY
for your position one way or another compared to other groups who use public lands. It’s more about grassroots, and who you mobilize to make phone calls.” The National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) has created more opportunities for involvement by requiring public comment for certain projects and actions. The Sierra Club uses email lists and social media to encourage its members to weigh in during these critical periods. “If you want to find some geekedout environmentalists, ask them to comment on a management plan. They really want to be engaged in that process,” Manuel says. “There’s a sliver of our membership that loves that kind of detail and getting into the weeds on that. When you do that, there’s never any question about whether your group pays user fees.”
The volunteer labor put forth by groups like the Appalachian Trail Conservancy and IMBA can grant a seat at the table as well. Christopulos said the Roanoke Appalachian Trail Club recently met with its congressman and the staff of Virginia’s two U.S. senators about landscape protection and concerns about natural gas pipelines. “We had a positive reception,” Christopulos said. “Compared to hunters and fishermen, our concerns as hikers on the Appalachian Trail were well received. Now, if we were a gas company, we’d have a lot more power.” According to the Center for Responsive Politics, the oil and gas sector contributed nearly $14 million to federal political candidates in 2016 through October 21. The forest products industry contributed $2.4 million. The gun lobby gave $1.9 million. The Sierra Club gave nearly $137,000, and the environmental sector as a whole gave more than $956,000. IMBA? Zero. Appalachian Trail Conservancy? Also zero. Guard against the temptation to draw too direct a line between political contributions and votes on legislation. Organizations often give money to politicians whose views align with theirs, and donations rarely come with an explicit quid pro quo. Virginia Delegate Tony Wilt of the Shenandoah Valley, who got into politics through involvement with his bear hunting club, says, “If you want your side to be heard, you better have a lobby, but after all of that, if I make a decision based on something solely because they gave me money, that’s a reflection of my integrity.” On the other hand, there’s a reason that businesses and utilities heavily affected by federal and state legislation hedge their bets by giving to both parties, as well as focusing on elected officials in influential positions such as committee chairmanships. Pay to play, after all, comes in many forms—and not just for recreationalists.
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EAGLE EYES
DON'T MISS THE LAST FEW WEEKS OF THIS YEAR'S HAWK MIGRATION SEASON by LAURA INGLES
G
abriel Mapel was 11 years old when he observed his first hawk count. A Virginia country boy with a lifelong affinity for all things nature, he and his dad visited Rockfish Gap in Afton in the fall of 2010, parking themselves among a gaggle of volunteers armed with binoculars and guidebooks. He was hooked. “I spent about 200 hours up there that season,” said Mapel, now a 17-year-old senior in high school with aspirations to become a national park ranger. “I had a great time, and I think it’s a really great thing to do on many levels. It’s a very important citizen science project, and on a more personal level, when you’re up there watching raptors migrate, it’s just really cool.” It’s raptor migration season here on the East Coast, and across the region volunteers like Mapel dedicate hours upon hours to the task of counting the hawks, falcons, ospreys, eagles and even owls that make their way south for the colder months. Rockfish Gap Hawk Watch, a 40-year-old group of dedicated birders who observe, count and record the thousands of raptors that fly over the parking lot of the Inn at Afton, is one of many official hawk count sites in the country that collects migration data. Organizers then feed those numbers to the Hawk Migration Association of North America (HMANA), a nonprofit that collects and analyzes the data to determine population trends. That information all ends up in a publicly accessible database with migration numbers dating back to the 1950s. “In North America there are at least 200 spots that have been
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established where people go, and they don’t just watch the hawks, but they participate as citizen scientists,” said Rockfish Gap Hawk Watch Coordinator Victor Laubach. “They record numbers and species they see migrate over that site every fall.” Located in the Blue Ridge Mountains between Charlottesville and Waynesboro, Rockfish Gap is an ideal spot to witness the birds’ annual migration, which starts in early September and typically lasts through the first week of December. Migratory birds like waterfowl and raptors tend to have defined pathways they follow, which Laubach said makes the flight more energy efficient. “That’s why hawks in eastern states generally fly down the Appalachian mountains,” he said. They take advantage of the uplift in wind and
VOLUNTEERS WITH ROCKFISH GAP HAWK WATCH GATHER IN AFTON, VIRGINIA, TO IDENTIFY AND COUNT BIRDS. photos by VICTOR LAUBACH
thermals generated.” So far this season, volunteers at Rockfish Gap have counted more than 26,000 raptors, which is about 10,000 more than the average. According to HMANA Monitoring Site Coordinator Julie Brown, sites like Rockfish Gap have played crucial roles in determining current population trends. She said the American kestrel, for example, is on a decline across the country. Golden eagle populations, on the other hand, appear to be decreasing in the west and increasing in the east. And HMANA didn’t draw those conclusions by looking at hawk count
Want to try your hand at hawk counting? Carolina Raptor Center’s Rehabilitation Coordinator Mathias Engelmann, who’s participated in counts himself, recommends just showing up at a site ready to learn. If you’ve got a lawn chair, a decent set of eyes and a pair of binoculars, he said, you can learn the rest. Raptors often soar at altitudes of 1,000 feet high, forcing counters to rely entirely on shape and flight pattern rather than size or details like tail bands or eye stripes.
numbers alone. “It’s important to take migration data and pair it with breeding bird studies, bird counts,” Brown said. “Looking at migration data is really just part of the puzzle.” GAWK AT HAWKS
For more information on locations near you check out Hmana.org/hawkwatch-sites
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THE DIRT
12 . 16
HIKING VIKING TOM GATHMAN CONQUERS A WINTER A.T. THRU-HIKE by ERIC WALLACE
I
n early December of 2015, Tom Gathman—a.k.a. The Real Hiking Viking—set out to accomplish a feat that, according to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, only a handful of daring hikers have ever managed: An unsupported, solo thru-hike of all 2,180 miles of the A.T., from north to south, in the depths of winter. Gathman faced treacherous snowfalls, sub-zero temperatures, and icy river crossings. “I didn’t really have any legitimate winter hiking experience—at least to that magnitude,” he laughs. “I mean, sure, when I thru-hiked the Continental Divide Trail the year before, I got caught in an unexpected snowfall. But while that required an ice-axe, micro-spikes, snowshoes, and so on, it wasn’t the dead of winter. I knew that, with the A.T. thing, conditions would be much gnarlier, and longer-lasting.” Despite the experiential deficit, Gathman was confident in his ability to push his body to the limits of its physical capacity. By the time he committed to the hike, he’d already managed to log around 10,000 miles of trail—including thru-hikes of the Arizona Trail and the Continental Divide Trail. And all of those miles had been logged in the span of less than three years. Aside from a few months laying over here and there, Gathman had essentially been living on the trail since 2013. After serving as a Marine scout sniper and completing two tours in Iraq (2007–2009), at the age of 29, Gathman retired from the military. Returning to civilian life in 2012, he was asked to participate in a program for new veterans, called the Warrior’s Hike. In the spirit of the first documented thru-hiker to walk
the A.T., World War II veteran Earl Shaffer, the idea was that a group of veterans could get funding, take to the woods as a team, and, with the guidance of an experienced mentor, spend some months walking off the war. “For me, that first hike was, both metaphorically and literally, the beginning of a new trail,” says
Gathman. “It brought me a new perspective, ushered me into a new environment of sorts. When I summited Katahdin, I just wanted to continue the journey—that adventure, that lifestyle, that mentality, that dream. I wanted to surround myself with the goodness the trail provides, that overwhelming sense of wholesomeness, of fullness.”
After that initial journey, he went on to lead a second Warrior’s Hike along the CDT, tackled various state trails, and attempted a solo thru-hike of the Pacific Coast Trail (an effort ultimately thwarted by wildfires). Regarding the miles collectively, Gathman identified a kind of unifying emotional experience that kept him coming back for more.
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TUCKER COUNTY WEST VIRGINIA
Photo by Sierra Shamer, FracTracker Alliance
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“You know, it’s that feeling where you suddenly know without a doubt you’re exactly where you’re supposed to be and doing exactly what you’re supposed to be doing,” he says. “For me, it’s akin to a religious experience. I liken being on the trail to glimpsing a view that only God could have made, for you and you alone. The perfect sight for that specific moment in time.” In late-October of 2015, upon finding himself attending a friend’s very posh and comfortable wedding in North Carolina, Gathman got a little antsy. Fresh off his grueling, interrupted attempt of the PCT, despite intentions to use the wedding as an excuse to give his body some much-needed rest, the call of the trail was overwhelming. He craved the isolation, the quietude, the action. “When I first got the idea for the winter hike, I thought, 'This is crazy,' and that’s because it was a little crazy,” he says. “But the more I thought about it, the more I began to get excited. Like, really excited. I guess that deep-down drive most thru-hikers have was kicking in, that thing that renders us hopeless against the call for adventure and challenge… In a very tangible way, I was homesick. I wanted to get back out on my own, out in the wild with just myself and the mountains and the weather and the water and the trees.” With little time to spare, Gathman sought advice and gear tips from other, experienced winter thruhikers, like Trauma, who completed a winter PCT thru-hike in 2015, as well as Swami, whom Gathman claims has logged more miles of hiking worldwide than anyone he knows of. Armed with the gurus’ wisdom and a gutful of gumption, he set out for Katahdin and the subsequent 100 Mile Wilderness. However, while mentally understanding the nature of a winter-hike was one thing, actually
experiencing the beast was quite another. Within the first few days, Gathman realized how hard this thing he’d gotten himself into was really going to be. The gap between this and his prior efforts out west was immense. “Those trails were practically sidewalks compared to the shitstorm of ruggedness I’d thrown myself into,” says Gathman. “The contrast between those earlier trips and hitting the Maine woods in December was so drastic as to be almost unfathomable. Multiply that by sub-freezing weather, knee-deep snow, un-tempered winds, and pounds upon pounds of extra gear, and the shock factor went through the roof. The holes in my planning became rapidly apparent.” As such, Gathman’s opening act— the 100 Mile Wilderness—turned out to be something of a prep-hike for the rest of the trail.
“Now that’s planning,” he says, laughing. “Take the most remote, and one of the most rugged stretches on the entire trail and make that your test run. Pretty ideal.” Being thrown into the tribulations headlong would ultimately prove worthwhile. Averaging between 15 – 20 miles a day, after five intensive months, in late-April, Gathman summited Springer Mountain. “For most of the journey I was either in motion or about to get in my sleeping bag—those were the two ways I existed in that world,” he says. “I didn’t think about Georgia, not even the next state. I literally thought about nothing but the next stretch of trail and the next resupply point… If I went out there expecting my days to be like walking on rainbows and dancing in sunshine, I wouldn’t have made it. It was rugged, treacherous, and freezing. I had to fully accept those conditions and approach the
thing one numbed footfall after the next.” In the end, despite early mishaps like slipping on ice, falling down a 100-foot slope and tearing cartilage in his knee, or slipping waist-deep into a half-frozen river and, after scrambling to make a fire, just barely escaping life-threatening hypothermia and frostbite, or going two days without food due to hideous weather conditions, Gathman says the adventure was worth it. “There’s just something about setting and accomplishing goals every day and physically exerting myself,” he says. “It works for me on such a fundamental level that I’m at peace with it. It’s a simple way of living and it’s a pure way of living… I don’t anticipate stopping anytime soon.” FOLLOW THE VIKING
Learn more about Tom Gathman’s past, present, and future adventures at TheRealHikingViking.com
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BUCKET LIST 38 MUST-DO APPALACHIAN ADVENTURES
ROAN MOUNTAIN'S HIGH ELEVATION AND EXPOSED BALDS MAKE IT A GREAT PLACE TO GET SNOWED IN. photo by HALEY BURLESON
by JESS DADDIO
PENNSYLVANIA by ski or snowshoe. The Laurel Ridge Cross-Country Ski Center in Rockwood, Penn., grooms 20 miles of trails in the winter when the highlands can receive as much as 41 inches of snow a season. To satisfy your thirst for backcountry pow, check out the North Woods area. It’s a knee-dropper’s dream. TOUR THE LAUREL HIGHLANDS
T
here’s a lot more to winter than cold days and long nights—clearer skies, better views, quieter trails. It’s a season for reflection, but also adventure. We’ve sourced 38 of the best winter adventures across nine different states to keep your #gooutsideandplay mojo intact till spring (so two months from now, we better not hear that “cabin fever” crap).
DITCH THE SLOPES at Seven Springs Mountain Resort and tour the mountain à la snowshoe. It’s a little
more of a workout, but you’ll have the trails to yourself and snow-laden hardwood forests to yourself. SEARCH FOR VERTICAL at
Blue Knob All Seasons Resort. There are plenty of technical (and unmaintained) glade lines here for skiers and snowboarders looking to avoid the crowds and find a little taste of untouched MidAtlantic powder. This part of central Pennsylvania gets an average of 120 inches of snow, with February typically proving to be the most shreddable month.
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WHO SAYS YOU CAN'T RIDE BIKES IN THE SNOW? ANDY FORRON OF FAYETTEVILLE, W.VA., MAKING QUICK WORK OF THE ARROWHEAD TRAILS. photo by CHRIS JACKSON
MARYLAND The shuttle is short, the scenery is breathtaking, and the class IV-V rapids are rowdy enough to keep even the best paddlers on their toes. For a longer run, paddle the four miles of flatwater to the putin of the Upper Yough, another classic example of Mid-Atlantic whitewater. LAP THE TOP YOUGH.
at Savage River Lodge. With lake-effect snow, 13 miles of groomed trails, and in-house rentals and lessons, the lodge is an ideal place to school the kids (or yourself) in the art of skiing uphill.
LEARN TO SKATE
“This is typically accomplished in late winter when there is still snow at the ski area (Wisp), local trails are free of snow, and the rivers are running. I call this the Garrett County Triple Crown. I'll tele ski groomers in the morning at Wisp, shred trail on my 20
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mountain bike at Fork Run, and then paddle the Top Yough in the afternoon. All activities take place within a 10-mile radius of where I live.” —Jeff Simcoe, Recreation Land Manager,
Big Bear Lake Trail Center & Ski Patrol, Wisp Resort
WEST VIRGINIA that is Dolly Sods. This place packs a lot of unique flora and fauna in its 17,371 acres. When there’s plenty of the white stuff, strap on a pair of snowshoes or simply take a hike on the rugged 47-mile network of trails.
WANDER THE WILDERNESS
SUMMIT BALD KNOB by cross-country ski or snowshoe. White Grass Touring Center has rentals for both, not to mention well-groomed trails, free weekend nature treks, and a cheery café that has hella-good food and chaga tea to boot. BREAK TRAILS
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Forest outside of Morgantown, W.Va. When the snow is good, it’s really good here and you’ll likely have the trails to yourself. Cross-country ski rentals are available at West Virginia University’s Outdoor Recreation Center. “My favorite winter adventure is one that involves no driving, small crowds, and a multitude of activities. Pedal the Blackwater Falls access road just across the Blackwater River in Davis, W.Va. Your destination is the Blackwater Falls State Park crosscountry ski and sledding lodge. Once in the park, head out Yellow Birch Trail to the Red Spruce trailhead. When sufficient snow is on Red Spruce, the trail is professionally groomed all the way to the sledding hill, an absolute blast to ride! Now it’s onto some cross-country skis. For a nominal price, rent cross-country
gear from Roger at Blackwater. You can make some turns down the sled hill and, if weather permits, you can take a ski out to Lindy Point to take in the views. It’s back on the bike by road or trail for Davis and the warmth of the fire at Stumptown Ales.” —Brian Sarfino, Marketing Manager,
Tucker County Convention & Visitors' Bureau
“My favorite winter adventure is paddling in the icy rivers and creeks of northern West Virginia, such as Blackwater Canyon or Big Sandy Creek. The margin for error is thin, with the frigid water, undercut ice shelves, and sometimes huge floating chunks of ice bobbing down the rapids with you. But the reward is the unmatched scenery and solitude of the river, with ice caps on the rocks and frozen side-stream waterfalls. A drysuit, pogies, a solid survival kit, and an unfailing roll are all
highly recommended for this type of paddling.” —Jack Ditty, three-time Green River Games Silverback Champion
“Ideal snow day would be morning ski right from town, on Craig’s Branch Road, a mix of cross-country with some turns and downhill runs tossed in. Go home. Switch from skis to fat bikes and ride from town hitting all of the Arrowhead trails and finishing up with a pedal out of Fayette Station. If the moon is full and there is snow, then you really can't beat a lightfree, all night bike ride. The New River Gorge seems to do a great job capturing light!” —Andy Forron, Owner, New River Bikes
VIRGINIA EXPERIENCE THE BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY
like you’ve never seen it before— closed. During the winter months, the parkway is off limits to motor D E C E M B E R 2 016 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M
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vehicles, which is good news for human-powered thru-traffic. Strap on some cross-country skis and glide along the backbone of the Blue Ridge. of sandstone crevices at Channels Natural Area Preserve. Hike the three miles in by way of the Brumley Mountain Trail. The views are spectacular and the rock mazes and secret passageways will bring out the explorer in everyone.
GET LOST IN THE LABYRINTH
SOAK IN THE CLEAR NIGHT SKIES from the Fort Lewis Lodge stargazing platform. Elevated high above the treeline, the deck is perfectly situated for an intimate winter viewing of the spectacular Milky Way and all its grandeur. Need a Valentine’s Day idea? Escape with your honey to the warmth of the lodge’s historical cabins for a truly cozy weekend. Log cabins, raging fireplaces, picturesque mountain setting. Does it get any more romantic than that?
“Elk Garden to the summit of Mount Rogers is my go-to route on a snowy day. You can be driving down I-81 with barely a trace of snow on the ground, but once you start up the mountain, it's not uncommon to find that the trails are blanketed in a foot or more of powdery goodness! It's 4.5 miles to the top, and on the way up you get a great mix of expansive views of snow-kissed mountains. On a clear day you can see into the mountains of North Carolina, catching glimpses of Grandfather Mountain and the ski slopes of Ski Beech and Sugar Mountain! It's another half mile to the summit. Tag the highest point in Virginia, then enjoy gliding back down the mountain! Don't forget to keep your eyes peeled for the ponies of Mount Rogers out playing in the snow as well.” —Beth Minnick, Women’s 50-Miler Champion, Iron Mountain Trail Run
KENTUCKY in the Russell Fork Gorge. Most kayakers make the annual voyage to this classic IV-V
PADDLE-AND-CAMP
stretch of whitewater in October during the regular dam release season, but the gorge also runs naturally, and quite often, during wintertime. along the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. Nothing warms the soul in winter quite like a road ride and a glass of bourbon, and then another road ride and another glass of bourbon, and so on and so forth. Be forewarned: in the 80ish miles between Lexington and Louisville, there are at least 20 distilleries associated with the trail.
LET THE SPIRIT GUIDE YOU
on the trails, jump lines, pump tracks, and BMX courses at the Mega Underground Bike Park in Louisville, Ky. When it gets too cold above ground, the Mega Cavern stays a comfortable 60 degrees year round. And with 320,000 square feet to explore, including 45 different trails, there’s plenty here to keep you busy for a weekend, no matter your skill level.
RIP UNDERGROUND
“As a stand up paddleboard enthusiast, instructor, and racer, I enjoy getting out on the water during the winter on various waterways around the state. The scenery is enchanting, everything is so quiet and still. As many of my paddling friends are Netflix and chilling, I am out`all geared up in my Matuse wetsuit and other gear, chopping through frozen rivers like the Ohio River. The more traditional activity that I enjoy during the winter is hiking in the Red River Gorge. The Red is the epitome of a winter wonderland—devoid of the usual throngs of people, insects, and flora, everything is in hibernation so you can view the cliffline much better from within the lower trails of the gorge. Marvelous Swarovski crystallike icicles line the rock shelters. I am buying a pair of snowshoes this year to help better navigate the terrain.”
—Gerry James, Director, Explore Kentucky Initiative
TENNESSEE GLIDE HIGH
on the Roan Mountain
There’s still time to make someone’s day! Unique Accommodations Equipment Rentals
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Still looking for gifts for your friends and loved ones? Not sure what to purchase for the office holiday party? Georgia State Parks and Historic Sites have got you covered! Offering gifts for everyone on your list, from Annual Park Passes, to gift cards for golf and overnight stays, to retail merchandise. Visit any state park or go to GaStateParks.org to get your holiday shopping taken care of – and take a little time for yourself, too!
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Massif. Ranging in elevation from 5,700 to 6,200 feet, this is backcountry skiing at its finest. Cruise beneath spruce-fir forests along the Appalachian Trail from Carver’s Gap to Elk Park for a 13mile tour de Tennessee powder. in Chattanooga. This Southeast metropolitan hub is not only culturally diverse but also acts as the gateway to some of the most quality climbing in the region. The Tennessee Wall, or T-Wall, is the crag to climb when it’s cold everywhere else. T-Wall’s mostly traditional, single pitch routes are all south-facing and receive a solid day’s worth of sun (think t-shirts in January). ESCAPE THE COLD
LET TIME STAND STILL at Greeter Falls in South Cumberland State Park. The lower falls plummets 50 feet in a dramatic curtain and often freezes after a good cold snap. Pair this icy display with long-forgotten remnants of the Greeter Homeplace and you have an adventure that is quite
literally frozen in time. “One of my favorite winter climbing spots is Stone Fort, right outside of Chattanooga Tenn. There are hundreds of high quality boulders, easy access, and the opportunity for a really fun climbing day!” —Cody
Roney, Executive Director, Southeastern Climbers Coalition
NORTH CAROLINA Yes, the South does have ice climbing and Whitesides in western North Carolina arguably has some of the most quality and consistent ice climbing in the region. Starshine is a 200-foot, two-pitch, WI4 route that provides climbers with palm sweating exposure and bird’s eye views of nearby Laurel Knob. Even better, you can car-scout this climb (sorta) from the highway.
CLIMB AN ICE FLOW.
to the summit of Black Balsam. At 6,214 feet, the conditions atop this grassy
TRAIL RUN BY MOONLIGHT
flat are unpredictable, so come prepared for the worst—a lot of changes can happen in the half-mile it takes for you to run up to the bald. Neighboring peaks Sam Knob and Tennett Mountain are also situated in the same area and all of these treeless tops afford postcard-worthy glimpses of the surrounding French Broad River Valley and Shining Rock Wilderness Area. in Cataloochee Valley, not with a gun, but with a camera! These stunning creatures were reintroduced to North Carolina in 2001 and are a surreal sight to behold. Their high-pitched bugle is otherworldly but don’t let it draw you closer—bring a zoom lens, respect their distance, and, it should go without saying but we’ll say it anyway, don’t put an elk in your car.
HUNT FOR ELK
“The winters are fairly kind to us around here. What's great about this temperate climate is the multitude of things you can cram into one day.
Let's lay out my 'perfect winter day.’ There's a river in the Smokies that I'm always looking forward to, and it's flowing with just the right amount of juice. A powder day for paddlers, if you will. We move quickly through the slots, channels, and waterfalls… but we do not dwell here long, as there is much more to pack into these hours. The Brown Mountain Trail begins with a short climb to one of the most scenic vistas overlooking Brevard and the Looking Glass Creek. Bike chains clatter and brake pads squeal as we negotiate the tricky boulder sections. Darkness falls, and so too does the temperature. Layering up for a night of carving turns under floodlights, we click our snow gear on and hop on the lift at Cataloochee Ski Area. Home now…I soon collapse into a deep slumber, dreaming of that perfect winter day here in Western North Carolina”
—Pat Keller, Factory Team, Liquidlogic
“Backyard winter adventures ideally involve no driving. Winter is such
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Just 30 minutes north of Asheville, NC
Over 62 acres of skiable terrain! • 16 slopes: 5 green, 9 blue, 2 black diamonds • 1 quad lift, 2 double lift, 2 surface lifts • PSIA/AASIA Member Show Sports School • Plenty of parking with shuttle service to lodge • NEW Beginner Training slope and 160’ surface lift • Ski Lodge with rental shops, gift shop, large stone fireplace, concessions and more • Townhome and Cabin Rentals available on top of the mountain - ski slope accessible.
We are North Carolina’s most accessible ski slope. Located just 5 miles off I-26 West, exit 3
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a special time because it transforms any landscape into something new. There's no better way to see your backyard from a different perspective than when it is covered in snow. My ideal backyard adventure involves waiting for conditions to line up for a skin up Rocky Knob and dropping the leeside snowdrifts and rock drops. Super fun when it's in, but it's almost never worth doing.” —Kristian Jackson, Senior Lecturer, Recreation Management at Appalachian State University
“While Max Patch is an incredibly popular destination for fair-weather visitors who enjoy the relaxing breeze and expansive vistas, its wide open slopes draw a slew of eager thrill seekers when the snow flies. When snowfall totals exceed three inches, whitewater kayakers convert their crafts into makeshift toboggans and let loose, careening down the hillside at Mach speed. Kayaks make excellent sleds due to their aerodynamic shape and smooth exterior, but they are often unstable and easy to flip—it's good to have a plan to minimize the carnage during an inevitable wipeout, including scouting your route to make sure you have plenty of space to coast before reaching the trees.” —Eric Adsti, Freelance Photographer, Producer, and Market Rep for Outdoor Project
SOUTH CAROLINA in the off-season. You might not be wearing a bikini, but the sun still shines here at least 212 days out of the year with temperatures hovering around 58 degrees. For no-fuss crowds and balmy conditions, this is where you need to be. Folly is a small beach oasis that sits just outside of Charleston, S.C., where you can get your city fix after a day biking around the beach. The winter swells here are also killer for surfing if you have a wetsuit.
GO TO FOLLY BEACH
You can paddle for miles across this 7,500acre reservoir without ever seeing another soul. Stay close to the banks for lakefront seating to Jocassee’s numerous waterfalls. And of course,
FLOAT LAKE JOCASSEE.
bring a camera—the birding is phenomenal and you’ll likely catch a glimpse of Jocassee’s resident loon population during your float. “Beautiful ice features and big views of upper Hickory Nut Gorge can be found off a little-known trailhead south of Gerten, N.C. Park at the CMLC Florence Nature Preserve and cross US 74-A where the trailhead begins on privately owned land. You will gain 650 feet as the trail quickly ascends Little Bearwallow Mountain, reaching Little Bearwallow Falls in just over a mile. What is normally a small drainage in summer becomes a 100foot ice wall in winter with sculptural ice features and potential for great climbing.” —Matt Moreau, Owner, The
Chattooga, Tallulah, Cartecay, and Chattahoochee are all classic Southeastern rivers that regularly flow during the winter months. Given the mild winter climate, north Georgia is ideal for winter paddling. SCALE RABUN BALD’S ICE in northeastern Georgia. This is not necessarily a beginner friendly ice climbing area, but for experienced climbers, it’s a classic example of Southern ice. Bimini Blue is a stellar two-pitch route with tons of exposure. The hair is standing up on our arms just thinking about it. HIKE THROUGH THE LITTLE GRAND
GEORGIA
more formally known as Providence Canyon State Park. The earthen red sandstone gorge here looks like something you’d find out west, except you don’t have to drive halfway across the country to get to it.
PADDLE THE NORTH GEORGIA
TREK THE RIM
Landmark Project
CIRCUIT
of class II-V rivers. The
CANYON,
of Cloudland Canyon. In just six miles you’ll catch glimpses
WHEN THE TEMPERATURES DROP, THE WATER LEVELS RISE. A PADDLER BRAVES THE ELEMENTS ON THE UPPER YOUGH photo by JACK DITTY
of impressive canyon walls, frozen waterfalls, and frosty stream crossings. Don’t worry—there’s a 600-stair climb to the rim that’ll warm you right up. “One of my favorite winter bike rides in Georgia is the Snake Creek Gap Time Trial, a true classic of southern mountain bike racing. It’s on the IMBA Epic Pinhoti trail just west of Dalton. Weather and trail conditions are tough on the body and bike and the ridges are rock-strewn and technical with some serious elevation folded up in them. You can be riding in cold rain, snow, an ice storm or it could be a perfect 50-degree day with blue skies. You never know what could happen! Definitely a bucket list winter ride and challenge!” —Brett
Davidson, President, IMBA SORBA Atlanta
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ON THIN ICE Dig in to these edgy adventures climbing frozen rock. by JESS DADDIO
At this very moment, there’s an adventurehungry soul somewhere in North Carolina sitting in front of the computer, refreshing 10-day extended forecasts every hour, hoping, praying even, for freezing temperatures.
ICE CLIMBER CODY BRADFORD PAUSES ON A ROUTE IN THE BLACK MOUNTAINS OF NORTH CAROLINA photo by KARSTEN DELAP
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$84 pp Midweek Madness Lodging Package 1- Night’s lodging at the slope-side Lodge at Wisp Midweek Madness Lodging Package 1-Day Lift Ticket Starting at $84 pp Starting at $84 pp 1- Night’s lodging at the slope-side Lodge at Wisp Monday Days 1-Day Liftlodging Ticket at the Deal 1Night’s slope-side Lodge at Wisp- Great for Beginners 1-Day Lift Ticket Only $49 Monday Deal Days - Great for Beginners Starting at
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Skiing / Boarding Skiing / Boarding Skiing / Boarding
Snow Tubing Snow SnowTubing Tubing
Ice Skating Ice Ice Skating Skating
Cross Country Skiing CrossCountry CountrySkiing Skiing Cross
Snowshoeing
Snowshoeing Snowshoeing
Mountain Coa
Mountain Coaster Mountain Coaster
H
e has his hooky excuse on standby, gear crammed in the trunk, fuel tank loaded. Why? Because climbing ice in North Carolina is like being on call—“If [the ice] comes in and you’re not ready to go, it can be gone the next day.” So says Michael Neuenschwander, 47, of Asheville, N.C. Neuenschwander is a physician at Park Ridge Health, so he’s used to the get-up-and-go mentality. In nearly 20 years of ice climbing, Neuenschwander has ascended most every ice route in North Carolina and ventured well beyond the Blue Ridge to the legendary flows of Banff’s Icefields Parkway, Ouray, Colo., and the eastern Sierra. He has navigated crevassed, avalanche-prone terrain in a whiteout, self-arrest while soloing North Carolina’s Celo Knob, and army crawled for hours through rhododendron-choked forests in search of ice. But for Neuenschwander, all of that is par for the course when your sport of choice is as ethereal as the ice on which it depends. “Ice climbing is one of those sports you wonder why it’s worth it,” he says. “Sometimes you do find that it is quite dangerous. You are climbing this medium that changes from day to day, and you have to have more wits about you to climb that type of medium. Once you do, there’s this fluid nature to the climbing that is sorta monotonous. The feeling that you get climbing a sheet of ice just on ice tools and crampons is really like no other feeling.” Not to mention that that feeling, that quiet moment of climber-onice, is but a fleeting image. With unpredictable cold spells, bouts of rain, and temperature inversions, the ice climbing season in the South sometimes amounts to a few weeks or less. In turn, the ice itself can often be fragile and detached. But, not always. So why do it? Why bother climbing ice in the South? “Sometimes there’s rock you have to climb on. Sometimes you have to use rhododendron to belay off of.
There are always varying conditions. But those are the toils of climbing ice in North Carolina. When it does come in, it’s as good as anywhere in the country.” So suit up and get ready for some tales from the flows. Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard once said, “When everything goes wrong, that’s when adventure starts.” If adventure is what you’re after, you’ve come to the right place.
UP SHIT CREEK WITHOUT A... TOOL
The year is 2007. The routes at Whitesides are in. Then 23-year-old Mark Rineer of Lancaster, Penn., is with his buddy Tony. Rineer is fresh off an ice climbing trip to Colorado. His body feels good, strong. His mental game is on point. Together, the pair begins the day by warming up on the single pitch routes above Mother Russia and Starshine, the latter of which they intend to climb later in the day. They’re moving swiftly through the holds, freesoloing the first couple of routes without incident. Rineer eyes a pitch that’s pretty vertical, maybe a water ice 4 (WI4) grade, but he’s not intimidated. He ties in and starts up the 90-foot route. Slowly, methodically, he works his way up the flow, places one screw, then another. His forearms start to burn and he scans ahead, searching for a rest amid an otherwise verticalsmooth canvas. It’s looking pretty dire, pretty blank. But then, not 20 feet above, he spots it—a ledge, or so he thinks. “In hindsight, you know, it’s the kinda thing where it’s a coin toss,” Rineer says. “Stop and place a screw and get pumped out or gun for a rest? That’s a choice you make whether you’re leading trad climbs or ice climbs—place gear or stick to that ‘when in doubt run it out’ kind of mentality?” Unable to ignore the fatigue in his arms, Rineer decides to hightail it to
CLIMBER IN DEVILS CELLAR AT TABLE ROCK, NORTH CAROLINA. photo by KARSTEN DELAP D E C E M B E R 2 016 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M
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the rest. He’s moving purposefully now, not faster, but with a sense of urgency. Soon he’s within arm’s reach of the ledge. He raises his ice tool and sinks its point into the ice. Immediately, the ice shatters, and Rineer is left on a small peninsula of ice amid a sea of rock. He freezes. His position is precarious, at best. The rock above extends farther than his arm can reach to the next patch of ice. To downclimb would be an equal stretch, and a sketchy one at that. Squatting down, he tries to place a screw where his lower tool is still biting into the ice. It doesn’t take. He tries the rock instead, but it doesn’t hold. Panic starts to set in. Rineer is well beyond pumped. Hastily, he places his tool into the rock and clips his rope in, hoping to shake out his arms enough to get the blood flowing. But when he shifts his weight, Rineer feels something give, and another wave of panic crashes down—his tool has just popped out of the rock and is sliding 20 feet down the rope to his
last screw. There, at last, the inevitable sinks in: I am a dead man. “I’m basically sure I’m going to hit the ground. There’s nowhere to go,” Rineer remembers. “Maybe 15 minutes pass. It got to the point where I couldn’t hold on any longer. I just remember my hand melting off the tool. The instant I let go, I just felt relief from panic, like, it’s done, there’s nothing else I can do.” So there, almost 50 feet from the base of the climb, 20 feet above his last screw, Rineer peels off the route, hurtling toward his belayer and what is sure to be his untimely death. His lower screws hold, but a few feet too late. Rineer hits the ground, his body sliding down a ramp until it stops, buried beneath six feet of snowdrift. “I remember Tony was looking at my cartoon-style, person-shaped hole in the snow. He knew he was looking at a dead body.” Except Rineer wasn’t dead. In fact, short of getting the wind knocked out of him, Rineer was
totally fine. He blinked, started wiggling his toes and fingers, had Tony palpate and examine his spine, then proceeded to hike out. It should go without saying that Rineer took a break from ice climbing—a four-year hiatus at that. But Whitesides, and North Carolina ice in general, still maintains a special place in Rineer’s heart. “I like the idea behind climbing in the Southeast. It’s never going to be bolted and it’s never going to be casual. It’s going to stay wild and that’s what I remember most fondly about ice climbing in the Southeast— bold and adventurous and sometimes scary but that’s what keeps it fun.”
40 FEET TOO LATE
Mother Russia is the mother of all ice climbs. Spanning 230 feet from top to bottom, this WI5 route is every bit steep, scary, and committing. Even by North Carolina standards, Mother Russia is a beast.
Which is exactly why Lynn Purser, a math professor from Alabama, wanted to climb it. “He’s hired me for a number of things over the years with all of these nutty objectives,” says Ron Funderburke, a head guide at Fox Mountain Guides. So when Purser got serious about Mother Russia, Funderburke got serious about guiding it. He spent much of the winter of 2014-2015 scouting the flow and finally, after three days of cold temperatures, the route was in. “Lynn had said, ‘Call me and I’ll play hooky or call in sick or whatever,’ but the day I wanted to climb it was the day it was getting warmer and he couldn’t come until the day after. The day after a warm day, who knows what kind of shape [Mother Russia] was going to be in.” Still, Funderburke agreed, and two days later, he and Purser were rappelling to the base of Whitesides. Funderburke knew the start was notorious for thin, verglas ice that
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D E C E M B E R 2 016 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M
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Three mountains, infinite memories!
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didn’t take protection very well, even on a good day. So when he found himself 10 feet, then 20 feet, then 40 feet off the ground and still unable to place any gear, it wasn’t like he was surprised. More like embarrassed. “It’s this gamut you get into as a lead climber and a guide. I’m not happy about where I am but maybe I climb another 10 feet and the ice will get better. Soon I get 40 feet off the ground, and not only is it not better, but I don’t feel comfortable about downclimbing the stuff I got up.” Purser, sensing Funderburke’s hesitation, tried to shout encouragements from below, something along the lines of, ‘Man, if it’s not safe, we’ll just wait for another year.’ But for Funderburke, that out came 40 feet too late. There was no turning back now. The only option was to keep climbing until he could get a screw into the ice. “It’s sometimes harder when you have the option to fail. In this case, there was no option to fail. It’s just like, ‘gulp.’ I’m feeling a little bit of embarrassment because I’m a professional mountain guide and it’s a little stupid what I’ve managed to get myself into. That’s easy to swallow. Fear you pretty much have to swallow because you won’t survive if your legs are shaking or your fingers are quivering. Mother Russia’s the kind of climb that will lure you in and when you can’t turn around, you gotta sorta rally and get up it and figure out how to survive.” Funderburke rallied. Finally, 90 feet from the base, the ice finally took a piece of pro. The rest of the route, by comparison, was a cake walk. “He climbed it, he enjoyed it, we ticked it, then I did shots to calm my nerves, which he paid for.”
COMMITTED
It wouldn’t be an overstatement to say that Fox Mountain Guides owner and guide Karsten Delap has done it all. From teaching clinics at Michigan Ice Fest and Ouray Ice Festival to guiding clients around the world to exotic destinations like Chamonix and Aconcagua, Delap arguably spends more time on mountains than in his western North Carolina home. That makes the little time he is home all the more special, especially if the ice is in. During the winter of 2014, Delap found himself in one such layover between travels when the North Carolina cold snaps were particularly powerful. So powerful, in fact, that Looking Glass became a frozen waterfall. “Looking Glass rarely comes in because it’s such a big flow. It just doesn’t freeze up,” Delap says. But that year, the 60-foot waterfall was frozen
Karsten Delap’s Go-To Gear As Fox Mountain Guides owner, guide, and head of Alpine Programs, Karsten Delap is well-versed in the ways of the mountain. He’s climbed all over the world, from Canada to Chamonix and everywhere in between. Check out his favorite pieces of gear for ice climbing in North Carolina and beyond.
JULBO TREK WITH ZEBRA LENSES ($180) These glasses allow you to see when in the shade, but as you top out in the sun, they darken so as not to be blinded.
IBEX WOOLIES ($80-155) Layer wool next to skin for all day warmth and comfort. Ranges in thickness from 1–3mm.
PETZL NOMICS ($299) Good all-around ice tool that excels in pure ice and vertical mixed terrain.
LA SPORTIVA TRANGO ICE CUBE GTX ($550) The best, light ice climbing boot made. Excels at hard ice in warmer temps and overhung mixed terrain.
DEUTER GUIDE LITE 32+ ($149) An alpine pack that carries ice tools well and has plenty of space for all of the extras but is still light and fast and carries well on route.
PETZL LYNX ($250) The all-around crampon. These can be changed from mono to dual point for lower angle ice and glacier travel but still hook up in steep terrain. D E C E M B E R 2 016 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M
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solid, save for the surging river-left side of the falls. Despite being unable to hear his belayer over the roar of the unfrozen falls, Delap started up Looking Glass, relying on his and his belayer’s guiding experience to keep the climb within risk management— after all, Delap volunteers with three local rescue teams in high angle, technical, and wilderness rescue. With his fiancée standing witness, camera in hand, Delap deftly navigated his way through a cave-like section of mixed climbing that, even by his standards, was physically taxing. Heart pumping, head clear, Delap transitioned over to the main flow, a pillar of ice that was literally wet to the touch thanks to the day’s warming temperature. Unable to place any protection, Delap climbed higher, bear hugging the pillar with his legs to avoid shattering the pillar with his crampons. When he was nearly 40 feet from the ground, he finally sunk in a screw, the smallest one on the
CLIMBER LINDSAY FIXMER LEADING AN UNKNOWN WI4+ ON HIGHWAY 215. photo by KARSTEN DELAP
market. It hardly went in halfway. “I really did that for everyone else to make them think I was okay,” Delap remembers. “Really, I was far from good. I was still free soloing. This was like climbing-at-my-limit hard.” Delap persevered, no thanks to a handful of other screws with questionable integrity. Unable to see or communicate with his belay partner from the top, Delap set up an anchor, pulled the rope taught, and began to belay. The duo topped out and rappelled, all without incident. It was only later when reviewing the images his fiancée shot that Delap realized that nearly one-third of the ice had fallen away while he was climbing it. “To me North Carolina ice climbing has made me the ice climber that I am because I get to places like Canada and I’m like, “Oh my God, this is easy.” The ice climbing here is so fickle and you gotta worry about so many things.”
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SIPSAFE LETS THE GOOD STUFF THROUGH
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B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S / D E C E M B E R 2 01 6
BlueRidgeOutdoors
GoOutAndPlay
BlueRidgeOutdoors
D N U O B W SNO
WINTER RESORT GUIDE 2016-2017 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
SNOWBOUND WINTER RESORT GUIDE 2016-2017
•
LAUREL MOUNTAIN RESORT
• PITTSBURGH
HIDDEN VALLEY RESORT • • SEVEN SPRINGS MOUNTAIN RESORT BALTIMORE •
I
t’s time to hit the slopes. Opening days are upon us at regional resorts, so wax your skis and get ready for some downhill thrills. BRO’s annual Snowbound winter guide has key beta on Southern slopes, as well as plenty of advice on where to stay, eat, drink, and play on your upcoming winter trips.
• WISP
37 RESORT BETA
•
• BRYCE RESORT • MASSANUTTEN
• CHARLOTTESVILLE THE OMNI HOMESTEAD • WINTERGREEN • • RICHMOND
CHARLESTON •
WINTERPLACE • • ROANOKE
Key Stats for Your Favorite Southern Ski Spots
38 APRES SKI
Options for Food and Fun after a Day on the Slopes
39 BEST BREWERIES
The Craft Beer Scene Surrounding the Slopes
40 BEST SOUTHERN SKI RUNS
•
CANAAN VALLEY RESORT
SNOWSHOE MOUNTAIN •
CONTENTS
WASHINGTON D.C.
KINGSPORT • JOHNSON CITY •
WOLF RIDGE •
• BRISTOL • HAWKSNEST
ASHEVILLE • KNOXVILLE • • OBER GATLINBURG
Great Slopes for All Skill Levels
40 OFF THE SLOPES
More Winter Fun around the Region
41 GEAR UP
Find Your Nearest Wintersports Outfitter
42 GET SOME REST
Where to Stay on Your Next Ski Trip
42 COOL SCHOOLS
Resort Ski Schools and Lessons
43 EVENT CALENDAR
Races, Big Parties, and Other Happenings at Regional Resorts
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
CHARLOTTE
•
Photo Courtesy Wisp Resort
RESORT BETA BRYCE RESORT
Mount Jackson, Virginia
Average Snowfall: 60-80 inches Number of Slopes: 8 Skiable Acres: 25 Pass Prices: $65 (Adult weekend/ holiday), $58 (Junior weekend/holiday), $56 (Adult weekday), $46 (Junior weekday) Scheduled Opening Day: Dec. 10 Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Charlottesville, VA - 1.5 hours • Washington, D.C. - 2.5 hours • Richmond, VA - 2.5 hours What’s new? Bryce has upgraded its snowmaking capabilities to provide even more coverage to their slopes, which already have 100 percent coverage.
CANAAN VALLEY RESORT Davis, West Virginia
Average Snowfall: 160 inches Number of Slopes: 47 Skiable Acres: 91 Backcountry Access: Yes Pass Prices: (Season pass $275 - $500) Scheduled Opening Day: Dec. 10 Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Washington D.C. - 2.5 hours • Charlottesville, Va. - 3 hours • Roanoke, Va. - 3.5 hours What’s new? Canaan Valley has added new ski, snowboard and cross-country ski rental offerings and expanded their wifi capabilities across the property.
MASSANUTTEN RESORT McGaheysville, Virginia
Average Snowfall: 36 inches Number of Slopes: 14 Skiable Acres: 70 Pass Prices: $239 - $450 Scheduled Opening Day: Dec. 10 Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Richmond, Va. - 2 hours • Washington, D.C. - 2.5 hours • Winston-Salem, N.C. - 4 hours What’s new? People can now buy lift tickets online. For offseason fun, the resort recently opened the Massanutten Bike Park for for mountain bike enthusiasts.
HAWKSNEST SNOW TUBING AND ZIPLINE Seven Devils, North Carolina
Average Snowfall: 40-50 inches Tubable Acres: 10 Pass Prices: $27 weekday, $34 weekend and holidays Scheduled Opening Day: Nov. 19 Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Charlotte, N.C. - 2 hours • Roanoke, Va. - 3 hours • Atlanta, Ga. - 5 hours
OBER GATLINBURG SKI AREA Gatlinburg, Tennessee
Average Snowfall: 35 inches Number of Slopes: 10 Skiable Acres: 40 Pass Prices: $299 early season, $349 in-season Scheduled Opening Day: Early to midDecember Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Knoxville, Tenn. - 1 hour • Atlanta, Ga. - 4 hours • Charlotte N.C. - 3.5 hours What’s new? Ober Gatlinburg’s snowmaking system has been upgraded with four new air compressors that are more efficient and environmentally friendly and new piping throughout the slopes.
SNOWSHOE MOUNTAIN RESORT Snowshoe, West Virginia
Average Snowfall: 180 inches Number of Slopes: 57 Skiable Acres: 256 Pass Prices: $349 until Oct. 31, $449 rest of season Scheduled Opening Day: Nov. 23 Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Roanoke, Va. - 2.75 hours • Richmond, Va. - 4 hours • Washington, D.C. - 5 hours What’s new? Snowshoe made significant improvements to their snowmaking capabilities ahead of last season, and they’re hoping this year to have the Western Territory open earlier than ever before.
SEVEN SPRINGS MOUNTAIN RESORT Seven Springs, Pennsylvania
Average Snowfall: 135 inches Number of Slopes: 33 Skiable Acres: 285 Pass Prices: Adult regular season pass: $609 Scheduled Opening Day: late November/early December Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Washington, D.C. - 3.5 hours • Richmond, Va. - 5 hours • Roanoke, Va. - 5 hours What’s new? Stay tuned!
WINTERGREEN RESORT Wintergreen, Virginia
Average Snowfall: 61 inches Number of Slopes: 24 Skiable Acres: 130 Pass Prices: Season Pass - $239 for students, $319 for individuals Scheduled Opening Day: Dec. 10 Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Charlottesville, Va. - 1 hour • Richmond, Va. - 2 hours • Washington, D.C. - 3 hours What’s new? Wintergreen is now a Rossignol Experience center featuring adult performance skis and snowboards from the Rossignol Experience line.
THE OMNI HOMESTEAD RESORT Hot Springs, Virginia
Average Snowfall: 50 inches Number of Slopes: 10 Skiable Acres: 45 Pass Prices: Adults $35-$59, children (12 and under) $24-$45 Scheduled Opening Day: late December Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Roanoke, Va. - 3 hours • Washington, D.C. - 3.5 hours • Winston Salem, N.C. - 4 hours What’s new? This fall, The Omni Homestead will debut its newest amenity, a 10-station zipline tour which features a 1,300’ dual zip across the ski area.
LAUREL MOUNTAIN RESORT Ligonier, Pennsylvania
Number of Slopes: 20 Skiable Acres: 70 Pass Prices: Adult regular pass: $450 Scheduled Opening Day: TBD Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Washington, D.C. - 4 hours • Richmond, Va. - 5 hours • Lexington, Ky. - 6 hours What’s new? Laurel Mountain is reopening this year after a major renovation project completed in conjunction with the PA-DCNR.
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
WOLF RIDGE SKI RESORT Mars Hill, North Carolina
Average Snowfall: 65 inches Number of Slopes: 15 slopes, but 20 when upper lodge is rebuilt Skiable Acres: 68 Pass Prices: Average full-day pass is $56 Scheduled Opening Day: Dec. 5 weather permitting Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Asheville, N.C. - 45 minutes • Greenville, S.C. - 1 hour • Atlanta, Ga. - 3.5 hours What’s new? This year, Wolf Ridge has added a new beginner ski area and magic carpet lift. They are also proud include the new After School Ski/ Snowboard Program.
HIDDEN VALLEY RESORT Hidden Valley, Pennsylvania
Number of Slopes: 26 Skiable Acres: 110 Pass Prices: Adult regular pass $539 Scheduled Opening Day: TBD Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Washington, D.C. - 3.5 hours • Roanoke, Va. - 5 hours • Lexington, Ky. - 6 hours What’s new? Stay tuned!
WINTERPLACE SKI RESORT Ghent, West Virginia
Average Snowfall: 62 inches Number of Slopes: 27 Skiable Acres: 90+ Pass Prices: $52 (weekday, all day adult), $33 (weekday, all day junior), $69 (weekend and holiday adult), $52 (weekend and holiday junior) Scheduled Opening Day: TBD Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Winston Salem, N.C. - 2 hours • Roanoke, Va. - 2 hours • Charlotte, N.C. - 3 hours What’s new? With over a mile of new snowmaking pipe on the slopes, the trails are sure to experience one of the best seasons yet at Winterplace.
WISP RESORT
McHenry, Maryland
Average Snowfall: 100 inches Number of Slopes: 34 Skiable Acres: 172 Pass Prices: $599 (adult season pass), $299 (student/dependent season pass) Scheduled Opening Day: Dec. 16 Driving Distance to Major Cities: • Washington, D.C. - 3.5 hours • Richmond, Va. - 4 hours • Roanoke, Va. - 4 hours What’s new? In addition to its offerings of Burton snowboard and Elan ski equipment, Wisp has opened a new Rossignol Experience Center and Concept.
APRÈS SKI IN THE BLUE RIDGE
THE OMNI HOMESTEAD RESORT
MASSANUTTEN RESORT
BRYCE RESORT
WINTERGREEN RESORT
GRAB A MEAL: Just a couple of miles
GRAB A MEAL: Cap a day on the slopes
at Massanutten with some grilled local meats, organic produce and craft beer at the Local Chop & Grill House in Harrisonburg, Va. HANG TIME: Take a guided tour around town and see the past come back to life. You’ll stop at markers like the Turner Ashby Monument and Stonewall Jackson’s headquarters. Learn about the area’s history at the Valley Turnpike Museum and the Virginia Museum of the Civil War. Tours depart from Massanutten Resort.
GRAB A MEAL: Enjoy a range of food
GRAB A MEAL: Take in the sweeping
Hot Springs, Virginia
from The Omni Homestead Resort is the Country Cafe, a simple outpost known for its fried chicken, big country breakfasts and pies. HANG TIME: Garth Newel Music Center is a year-round chamber music venue presenting over 50 concerts annually. Listen to the Garth Newel Piano Quartet perform as well as other renowned guest musicians. Concerts are paired with gourmet meals and lodging is available in the Historic Manor House.
WINTERPLACE Ghent, West Virginia
GRAB A MEAL: The Dish Café is an
eclectic culinary delight that uses fresh ingredients to create unique flavor combinations. Enjoy the taste of regionally grown produce, hormone free pork and poultry or grass-fed beef in each dish. HANG TIME: Relax with a drink and food at the Snowdrift Lounge in Winterplace Resort and watch some sports on big screen TVs. Compete in the weekend karaoke contests to win prizes and gift certificates from the Winterplace Retail Shop.
McGaheysville, Virginia
HAWKSNEST SNOW TUBING AND ZIPLINE Seven Devils, North Carolina
GRAB A MEAL: Get cozy at the Eat
Crow restaurant 10 minutes down the mountain from Hawksnest. This American-fare restaurant offers baked pies and breads as well as lunch and dinner options like their classic fish and chips. HANG TIME: Nick’s Restaurant & Pub offers a full bar from favorite top-shelf brands to imported beer on tap. Every Friday night features karaoke at 8, and catch the latest sports games each Sunday on their big screens.
Mount Jackson, Virginia
from Southern homestyle at Candy’s Diner to the authentic southern Italian fare of Castiglia’s. Then cozy up with coffee at Jackson’s Corner Coffee Cafe. HANG TIME: Explore the Shenandoah Spirits Trail in the Northern Shenandoah Valley. Along with seeing the 27 wineries, breweries, cideries and distilleries, you’ll find stunning ridgeline views, charming mountain towns, historical treasures, farmto-table dining, and all the outdoor recreation options you could want. The trail offers something for everyone.
Wintergeen, Virginia
view of the Blue Ridge Mountains while enjoying the huge array of dishes like swordfish ratatouille for dinner or the Sunday brunch buffet. Be sure to stop by Wintergreen’s country store before heading home and pick up a gourmet deli sandwich and fresh baked dessert. HANG TIME: Head over to the Discovery Ridge Adventure Center and hit the 25-foot climbing wall or try the bungee-trampoline. An indoor theater featuring sporting events and videos offers a relaxing respite from the elements.
LAUREL MOUNTAIN RESORT
CANAAN VALLEY RESORT
GRAB A MEAL: From the bottom of
overstuffed, eclectic burritos like the grilled tofu Goofy Foot at the mellow Hellbender Burritos restaurant in Thomas, West Virginia. Make sure to wash it down with one of the local drafts on tap. HANG TIME: Head half an hour north to Thomas, West Virginia for some live folk and bluegrass music at The Purple Fiddle. Enjoy one of the more than 50 microbrews available at the bar while listening to any of the near 300 performances scheduled per year.
Ligonier, Pennsylvania
the slope is the Wildcat Lounge, a full-service bar and restaurant located on the ground level floor of the lodge. The Wildcat Lounge features a variety of craft beers, cocktails, and a wine list to complement the creative menu. HANG TIME: Switch the ski boots for some walking shoes. Just down the road in Ligonier, Pennsylvania, is a historic town fi lled with a variety of cultural and family activities.
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
Davis, West Virginia
GRAB A MEAL: Chow down on
WOLF RIDGE SKI RESORT Mars Hill, North Carolina
GRAB A MEAL: Head over to
Asheville’s downtown, where food options are almost as endless as your imagination. Feed your inner ski beast with a grass-fed burger from Farm Burger Asheville, and then cap the evening sipping a honey and lavender hot chocolate at the French Broad Chocolate Lounge. HANG TIME: Catch the latest performance at The Orange Peel. Upcoming artists like Blues Traveler and Rising Appalachia enrich any ski trip to Wolf Ridge.
SEVEN SPRINGS MOUNTAIN RESORT Seven Springs, Pennsylvania GRAB A MEAL: With several
restaurants on the property, Seven Springs has something for everyone. From German cuisine at Bavarian Lounge to big all-American burgers at Timbers, the food will keep anyone full and happy long into the night. HANG TIME: You won’t have to leave the mountain for entertainment. The Legendary Foggy Goggle, one of the best ski bars on the East Coast, has great drinks and better entertainment. Then hit the dance floor at the resort’s Matterhorn
Lounge, where live bands or DJs keep the party going past midnight.
SWOVER CREEK FARM BREWERY
APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN BREWERY
SNOWSHOE MOUNTAIN RESORT
Located on a Virginia century farm, Swover Creek Farms has been in the same family for over 100 years. Still operating as a berry farm, they expanded a few years ago into hops production and opened their farm brewery on-site two years ago. Since then, they specialize in producing small-batch beer using many of their own ingredients, including seasonal berry infusions. Enjoy wood-fired pizzas, farm-crafted sausages, and homemade pretzels with your beer. Dog and family friendly. DRINK THIS: Their Red Clay or Dirty Blonde
After a tubing session at Hawksnest, check out the local favorite of Boone. Appalachian Mountain’s commitment to high-quality craft brewing can be matched by its dedication to supporting the High Country community. Among their many projects are a Pints For Profits program that donates a portion of profit for every pint they sell to different organizations in the area. AMB’s tasting room has plenty of outdoor seating, a 120-foot-long outdoor bar and a covered heated porch perfect for enjoying one of their beers or ciders. DRINK THIS: The Boone Creek Blonde Ale, named for the creek along which the brewery was built, has a light hop aroma complemented with orange zest.
Snowshoe, West Virginia
GRAB A MEAL: Step off the mountain
and right into the Junction restaurant where dishes like venison chili and the classic Reuben with waffle fries leave you feeling cozy and warm. HANG TIME: Every Friday night features “Beats on the Basin” concert series, where live music will put you in the mood to dance all night. Or get your groove on Saturday nights with the eclectic sounds of award winning DJ Judd.
OBER GATLINBURG SKI RESORT Gatlinburg, Tennessee
GRAB A MEAL: Seasons of Ober
Restaurant has a little something for every palate from cheese sticks to rib-eye. Or head to the Sidewalk Cafe for a pizza with friends. HANG TIME: Spend your rest day in the Arcade & Redemption Center or walk around the old-timey downtown. Then spend the night on the area’s largest dance floor in the Loft Lounge at Ober Gatlinburg.
BEST SKI TOWN BREWERIES
Few experiences are more satisfying after a long day on the slopes than that first sip of good beer. These breweries near regional resorts can provide just that and more.
BROTHERS CRAFT BREWING Harrisonburg, Virginia
Brothers Craft Brewing was a dream founded by the three Shifflett siblings who wanted to brew the unique craft beers that would emphasize and support the community of their Virginia home of Harrisonburg.
Go to their taproom to try one of their featured 10 rotating drafts, which include their flagships as well as innovative creations of sour and barrel-aged projects. DRINK THIS: For a bold flavor and high gravity, order The Admiral, their double IPA. For something lighter, their Lil’ Hellion is a good classic Helles lager.
Edinburg, Virginia
DEVILS BACKBONE Nelson County, Virginia
A brewery that values adventure, Devils Backbone has a mission to enrich the community through good vibes and great beer. That means brewing such award winners as their Schwarz Bier, a German-style black lager whose toasted malts harken to medieval times. DRINK THIS: The Danzig marries an English Porter with a German lager to reveal notes of chocolate, coffee and a dash of sugar - a smooth richness worthy of a gold medal in the 2016 Great American Beer Festival.
SIERRA NEVADA BREWERY Asheville, North Carolina
After nearly three decades as a solo location in California, Sierra Nevada decided to bring its craft beer over to Southern Appalachia. Drive up their forested driveway, park under a solar-panel canopy, and see where the magic of Sierra Nevada’s brewing happens. Try any of their 23 beers on tap in the Taproom. Many of the beers are produced just a few feet from the restaurant. DRINK THIS: A special ale for the holidays, Celebration IPA features the first hops of the growing season. With notes of dark roasted coffee and baker’s cocoa, Narwhal Imperial Stout is a midnight black and bold.
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Boone, North Carolina
MOUNTAIN STATE BREWING CO. Thomas, West Virginia
At 3,000 feet in elevation, Mountain State Brewing sits at the top of the watershed, just minutes from Canaan Valley Ski Resort. Began in 2005 by two real West Virginia natives, the brewery’s dedication to balanced, easy-drinking session style ales set the pace for craft beer in West Virginia. Try their four flagship ales or seasonal offerings next to friendly locals in their taproom and music hall, which provide the perfect ambience after a long day of boarding or skiing. Mountain State also has another outpost near Wisp Resort in McHenry, Maryland. DRINK THIS: The Dolly Suds Cranberry Wheat, a winter seasonal Belgian Wit named for the state’s Dolly Sods wilderness area, a high altitude plateau famous for its rock formations, sweeping vistas and windstunted pines.
Photo Courtesy WintergreenResort
FAVORITE REGIONAL SKI RUNS
BEST SOUTHERN SKI RUNS
From mellow greens to steep black diamonds, here are some of the region’s favorite ski runs. VOYAGER & RAMBLER HIDDEN VALLEY RESORT
Pennsylvania
For beginners and kids, these two trails are fan favorites. Scenic and not-too-challenging, these trails wind through the woods and provide a great experience for the novice skier.
POSSUM
WISP RESORT
Maryland
Possum is a nice, long 1.5-mile cruiser run that’s perfect for beginners but also fun for expert skiers and riders as a warmup or cool down. Another Wisp favorite, the intermediate Ace’s Run can be found at North Camp, which holds snowfall well, so stashes can always be found on either side of this intermediate run.
BROADWAY
WOLF RIDGE SKI RESORT
North Carolina
Broadway is a great wide green run for new skiers a well as advanced. The
popular blue Whistling Dixie offers plenty of technical features. Join it to View Finder to Powder Hill for one of the longest runs in the Southeast ( 3/4 mile). The infamous Bowl Run is a double Black Diamond slope that will test the skill of some of the most advanced skiers and boarders anywhere.
BOOTLEGGER BRYCE RESORT
Virginia
Bootlegger is the perfect intermediate slope offering an upper section that provides moderate pitch, perfect for carving and featuring a steep headwall at the end to challenge most skiers and snowboarders.
TYRO
WINTERGREEN RESORT
Virginia
Intermediate skiers will love this dynamic blue run, which features a fun variety of grades, starting slowly and finishing with a big drop off. Experts should head over to the
Highlands and scream down the only double blacks in Virginia.
TURKEY CHUTE
WINTERPLACE SKI RESORT
West Virginia
Winterplace opts for very little grooming on Turkey Chute, so the expert trail naturally takes shape as one of the best and most challenging mogul runs in the region. Pick your line and be ready for the bumps.
SHAY’S REVENGE & CUPP RUN
SNOWSHOE MOUNTAIN RESORT
West Virginia
The Western Territory is one of the things about Snowshoe that really set it apart. It consists of Shay’s Revenge, and the legendary Cupp Run. Both are over 1.5 miles long of black diamond and double black diamond terrain.
From top to bottom, they drop 1,500ft in elevation. On a powder day, the Western Territory is unlike anything else you’ll find in the region.
MOGUL RIDGE
OBER GATLINBURG SKI AREA
Tennessee
Mogul Ridge is the signature run at Ober Gatlinburg. A steep, advanced run featuring three fall lines and mostly ungroomed throughout the season, Mogul Ridge offers even the best skiers and snowboarders a challenge. Grizzly is a local favorite, winding its way down from the top of the mountain, making a natural giant slalom course. Newly installed slope lighting on Grizzly means that the trail stays open until close.
ENJOY WINTER, Rest your ski legs with these other activities at resorts and elsewhere around the region.
OFF THE SLOPES
RESORT TUBING AND SKATING
Many local resorts provide ice skating and snow tubing as alternative winter activities to the ski and snowboard slopes. Hawksnest has a tubing park in the North Carolina High Country that offers 30 lanes of excitingly steep runs that range from 350 to 1,000 feet that support a broad spectrum of ages. Be some of the first guests to enjoy Seven Springs Resort’s new snow tubing and sleigh rides. Canaan Valley also has a multi-lane snow tubing park. Or check out Virginia’s largest tubing park, The Plunge, at the Wintergreen Resort. For skating go to Canaan Valley’s covered ice skating rink or hit the Allegheny Springs Winter Wonderland at the Omni Homestead Resort. The Wonderland also features a springfed outdoor heated pool for warming up after your time across the ice.
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HISTORY MUSEUMS
History lovers can visit the Virginia Museum of the Civil War in nearby New Market to learn about Virginia’s significant role in the Civil War as well as the story of young cadets from the Virginia Military Institute who were called to reinforce the Confederate troops on a rainy day in May at the Battle of New Market. Harrisonburg has several unique museums including the Harrisonburg Fire Museum, which features a prominent display of historic fire memorabilia such as medals, equipment, uniforms, old fire alarms and photos.
RELAXING SPAS
Many local resorts have spas for those looking to relax and rejuvenate between their days on the slopes. For the ultimate apres ski activity, The Spa at The Omni Homestead
Resort allows adults to really indulge in the Serenity Garden, an outdoor oasis featuring the resort’s natural hot springs. Children of all ages will enjoy DownTime, a family-friendly game area with billiards, air hockey, shuffleboard, mini foosball and video games. The Spa at Snowshoe is 3,600 feet of luxury where you can enjoy a full treatment or head over to the salon for a new stylized look.
DOLLYWOOD
Head down the mountain during your rest day at Ober Gatlinburg for a full-on experience of roller coasters and rides at Dollywood. Hit the brand new Lightning Rod, the world’s fastest roller coaster, or ride through flames engulfing an 1880s town on the Blazing Fury ride. Check out the Calico Falls Schoolhouse for a glimpse into what education looked like in Southern Appalachia during the late 1800s.
Learn about America’s avian symbol at the Eagle Mountain Sanctuary, a 30,000-square-foot aviary housing the country’s largest presentation of non-releasable bald eagles. DOLLYWOOD.COM
WEST VIRGINIA’S OBSERVATION STATION
Check out nearby Green Bank and visit the National Radio Astronomy Observatory during your break off Snowshoe Mountain. Take a tour of the awe-inspiring giant telescopes and satisfy curiosity at the hands-on exhibit hall. You’ll be fascinated by everything you’ll learn about radio astronomy. The Observatory’s Green Bank Science Center is open all yaer with limited hours during the winter: Thursday-Monday from 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. with tours at 11 a.m., 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. NRAO.EDU/FACILITIES/GBT
GEAR UP
SNOWSPORTS OUTFITTER DIRECTORY
Need new skis before you hit the slopes? These outfitters will have you in the latest gear and apparel so you can look and feel your best out in the snow. FREESTYLE
ALPINE SKI CENTER
Freestyle is a family-owned, fullservice ski and snowboard shop with two Virginia locations—one at Wintergreen Resort and another in Charlottesville. Founded in 1983, the company, which offers a full selection of gear and apparel, rentals, and online sales, is owned by Sepp Kober, a longtime fi xture in the Southern skiing scene who grew up with deep roots in the sport. Kober’s late father, Sepp Kober, Sr., is a member of the U.S. Ski and Snowboard Hall of Fame and is widely known as the “Father of Southern Skiing.” Kober picked up skiing at the young age of 2, went on to race competitively, and later become an instructor and coach.
Since 1976, Alpine Ski Center has been the premiere ski and snowboard shop in the Southeast. During a time where the Internet seems to rule the shopping world, Alpine has stood the test and does not sell online. Alpine Ski Center believes service in the ski and snowboard world is key to keep skiers and snowboarders on the slopes. The staff can provide advice and knowledge, where selecting your new gear can be the difference in having a good time or a great time. Alpine Ski Center has grown to include four locations in North Carolina, two in Tennessee, and one in South Carolina.
Virginia
FREESTYLEONLINE.COM
SKI BARN & SNOWCREEK MOUNTAIN SPORTS Virginia and West Virginia
Affi liated shops Ski Barn and SnowCreek Mountain Sports join to create the East Coast’s largest independent ski and snowboard rental company. You can find them at the bases of four West Virginia resorts—Snowshoe Mountain Resort, Winterplace Ski Resort, Canaan Valley Resort, and Timberline Resort—as well as near Wintergreen Resort in Virginia. With 30 years of experience, each shop has staff who are knowledgeable and will put you in the right gear. Besides rentals, the stores also sell a wide array of ski and snowboard clothing and equipment from top brands.
North Carolina, South Carolina & Tennessee
ALPINESKICENTER.COM
HIDDEN VALLEY SKI & SNOWBOARD SHOP Pennsylvania
Whether you’re looking for fashion or function, Hidden Valley Ski & Snowboard Shop can help you. With a huge selection of technical ski, snowboarding, and kid’s clothing, the Hidden Valley Ski & Snowboard Shop is full-service and specializes in customer service. The staff believes in selling skiing and snowboarding first and product second. The shop offers a boot-fitting service that will have your feet feeling great no matter how long you’re on the slopes. The Ski Shop delivers such brands as Rossignol. Head, Atomic, K2, Salomon, Descente, Marker, Scott, Ride, Roxy, Quicksilver.
HIDDENVALLEYRESORT.COM/WINTER/SKIAND-RIDE/SKI-AND-SNOWBOARD-SHOP
SKIBARN.NET
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Get out of your winter gear and relax in the cozy accommodations in one of these resorts of the Blue Ridge Mountains. THE OMNI HOMESTEAD RESORT Hot Springs, Virginia
Enjoy authentic Southern-style luxury at The Omni Homestead Resort, offering 483 guest rooms and suites and a variety of packages. The rooms have modern features like plasma TVs, on-demand programs and wifi, but stay true to a classic Virginia charm with their decor. Relax in down or feather beds with luxury linens. Between 170 and 310 square feet, suites add extra luxury with separate sleeping and living quarters so guests can spread out. Warm up on the sun porches and in front of fireplaces in the deluxe suites, which provide a pleasant charm.
WINTERGREEN RESORT Wintergreen, Virginia
From intimate studios and condos to grand mountain homes, Wintergreen Resort offers something for everyone. Its 230 lodging options are cozy and offer lots of room to spread out. Pick one with a fireplace for warming up after a day in the snow. During your rest day, hit the indoor pool, hot tubs, or steam and sauna rooms at the Aquatics & Fitness Center. Want a home to call your own? Wintergreen Premier Properties is the leader in the local area market, with more than $28M in real estate sales in 2015.
Knowledgeable and friendly agents will help you find your dream property.
CANAAN VALLEY RESORT Davis. West Virginia
Canaan Valley Resort offers some of the finest, most comfortable West Virginia lodgings. This celebrated retreat is the premier ski destination in the Allegheny Mountains, appealing to both business goers and leisure travelers alike. Indulge in the peace and tranquility of their scenic West Virginia mountain lodging — where the highest levels of comfort and service await. From new rooms in the lodge to 23 cabins, to roughing it at one of the 34 campsites, Canaan Valley has accommodations for everyone. Enjoy total relaxation with views of the highest mountain valley east of the Rocky Mountains.
SEVEN SPRINGS
Seven Springs, Pennsylvania
From comfortable guest rooms to gorgeous slopeside townhomes and everything in between, Seven Springs offers a vast range of lodging options. Located at the base of the mountain, the Main Lodge Hotel offers comfortable guest rooms and luxurious multi-room suites to accommodate you and your family. Whether you’re escaping the city for the weekend or planning the ultimate family vacation, there is something for everyone at Pennsylvania’s Outdoor Adventure Headquarters.
HIDDEN VALLEY
WISP RESORT
A sister resort to Seven Springs and Laurel Mountain, Hidden Valley Resort is within a 30-minute drive. Take the entire family skiing in the morning, then enjoy a luxurious spa treatment or facial at the resort’s Trillium Spa in the evening. Then go for it again the next day or mix it up with something else after a relaxing overnight stay at The Inn at Hidden Valley. Or enjoy a more colonial feel at one of the bed and breakfasts in historic Ligonier, PA, just a few minutes away.
Get onto the slopes fast from the Lodge At Wisp, which features 67 guest rooms and 102 suites smack dab in the middle of the mountain. The recently updated slopeside hotel provides smoke-free ski-in/ski-out convenience and soothing views of Deer Creek Lake, a great spot for summer water activities like kayaking and SUPing. They are also offering a Midweek Madness Package where you can enjoy one night’s lodging and a one-day lift ticket for $84.
Hidden Valley, Pennsylvania
McHenry, Maryland
FAMILY FUN/ COOL SCHOOLS (LEARN TO COOL SKI PROGRAMS)
Photo Courtesy Wisp Resort
GET SOME REST
SCHOOLS
Whether you’re a beginner or a veteran, the programs at these regional resorts have resources and teachers to help you reach that next level of progression. THE OMNI HOMESTEAD SNOW SPORTS SCHOOLS Hot Springs, Virginia
The Omni Homestead’s Little Penguins Program is focused on providing a safe learning experience as well as an exciting time so children can have the time of their lives. The program is open to kids ages 5 to 11, and helmets are required. Other recommended gear for snow sports include gloves, layers, hat and goggles. Novice to advanced skiers will gain something from the unique combination of the Sepp Kober Ski School at The Omni
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Homestead. A team of experienced ski and snowboard instructors offer all levels of lessons, including specialty ski and snowboard clinics for skiers 4 years old and up. Private and group lessons are available. The Rossignol Experience Center featuring Rossignol at The Omni Homestead offers awardwinning experience skis with the latest ski innovations like the auto-turn rocker. These alterations provide skiers of all abilities with more ease-of-use, versatility and progressive all-mountain performance than ever.
SEVEN SPRINGS RESORT Pennsylvania
Fun-Based Learning at the Snowsports School is a revolutionary new system utilizing shaped snow features that naturally control speed and direction to help beginners focus on going rather than stopping and having fun as they learn. This program is the perfect option for children and adults who are getting on the slopes for their first time.
BRYCE RESORT
Mount Jackson, Virginia
Bryce Resort’s Horst Locher Snowsports School is celebrated as one of America’s top programs with high-end instructors that are skilled in customizing lessons for all needs and abilities. From first-timers to experts desiring more technique, Bryce Resort is a prime choice to reach the next level. Grab the resort’s First-Time Packages for a great way to start skiing or snowboarding in a family-friendly non-intimidating environment. This three-part package includes rentals, a lift ticket and a one-hour lesson and is available for beginner snowboarders and skiers ages 8 years and older. A private lesson is awesome for getting ace-level one-on-one time with an instructor who can develop a learning plan based on your needs. The Children’s Snowsports Learning Center offers two carpet lifts and fosters an exciting learning environment for your kid while keeping your mind at ease. Bryce Resort also boasts one of the in the Southern region’s largest ski teams, with over 60 racers. Children can start race training clinics as young as six years of age.
MASSANUTTEN RESORT McGaheysville, Virginia
A member of the Professional Ski Instructors of America (PSIA) and the American Association of Snowboard Instructors, Massanutten’s Pathway program is a unique program for beginners that includes two, one-hour lessons.
The resort’s Snow Sports Learning Center features daily lesson ski and snowboard programs that range from a first-day experience to advanced lessons on improving technique. Pathway program participants will progress through the resort’s easiest terrain and will focus on the basics of how to use the lifts safely, turn and stop. Massanutten also offers a comprehensive youth instructional program ranging from beginner to advanced levels in both snowboarding (ages 7 to 12 years) and skiing (ages 4 to 12 years). Massanutten also partners with Therapeutic Adventures to provide an individualized approach to adaptive snow sports instruction.
WINTERPLACE SKI RESORT Ghent, West Virginia
The proud member of the Professional Ski Instructors of America, the Winterplace Ski and Snowboard School offers both private and group lessons to meet everyone’s needs from the needs of those still developing skills on the slopes to seasoned skiiers and snowboarders. The resort’s entry-level Learn-To-Ski & Board Package is a great inclusive deal that includes a fullday beginner lift ticket, a group lesson and equipment rental. The lessons are at the Ski School, which is behind the Resort Center slope-side deck, next to the top of Chairlift 5. Lessons start at as early as 8 a.m. on weekends.
WISP RESORT
McHenry, Maryland
Wisp Resort has the primo deal to get if this season will be your first on the slopes. Grab the Rookie Year Pass for $299. The pass includes three allinclusive, learn-to-ski or snowboard packages. After completing the lessons, rookies receive skis or snowboard equipment and an offpeak season pass that’s valid for the remainder of the 2016-2017 winter season. Note, this offer is intended for first-time skiers and snowboarders 8 years of age and older and free equipment is limited to first 100 Rookie Passes sold.
EVENT CALENDAR RESORT
HOLIDAY ARTISAN STUDIO TOURS DECEMBER 3-4
Bryce Resort
FACEBOOK.COM/ HOLIDAYSTUDIOTOUR
WINTER BREW FEST
KING OF THE MOUNTAIN JANUARY 28
Ober Gatlinburg Resort Area OBERGATLINBURG.COM/ KINGOFTHEMOUNTAIN
SUBARU WINTERFEST JANUARY 28-29
DECEMBER 17
Wisp Resort
SNOWSHOEMTN.COM/THINGS-TODO/EVENTS/WINTER-BREW-FEST
PRESIDENTS WEEKEND
HOT SPRINGS CHRISTMAS PARADE
OMNIHOTELS.COM
Snowshoe Mountain Resort
DECEMBER 17
The Omni Homestead Resort DISCOVERBATH.COM
CANAAN CHRISTMAS CELEBRATION
FEBRUARY 17-20
The Omni Homestead Resort
SUNDAY SESSION: AIR & STYLE FEBRUARY 21
Ober Gatlinburg Resort Area
OBERGATLINBURG.COM/OGFTTERRAIN-PARK
DECEMBER 24-25
Canaan Valley Resort CANAANRESORT.COM
NYE GLOW RUN 5K DECEMBER 31
Massanutten Resort
VAMOMENTUM.COM/NYE-GLOWRUN-5K.HTML
NEW YEAR’S EVE PARTY: 3 OPTIONS
THE WINTERGREEN RESORT TERRAIN PARK SERIES FEBRUARY 18, 25
Wintergreen Resort
WINTERGREENRESORT.COM
SKI TOURNAMENT FEBRUARY TBD
Wolf Ridge Ski Resort SKIWOLFRIDGE.COM
DECEMBER 31
THE WINTERGREEN RESORT TERRAIN PARK SERIES
THE WINTERGREEN RESORT TERRAIN PARK SERIES
MARCH 4
Hidden Valley Resort
JANUARY 14, 28
Wintergreen Resort
WINTERGREENRESORT.COM
SUNDAY SESSION: SLOPESTYLE JANUARY 22
Ober Gatlinburg Resort Area
OBERGATLINBURG.COM/OGFTTERRAIN-PARK
Wintergreen Resort
WINTERGREENRESORT.COM
WINTERFEST MARCH 11
Bryce Resort
BRYCERESORT.COM
WILD THING WEEKEND MARCH
Canaan Valley Resort State Park CANAANRESORT.COM
PLAY
GoToWV.com | 800-225-5982 #GoToWV |
Canaan Valley, WV
WHO SAYS ADULTS CAN’T HAVE ≠
SNOW DAYS? ADVENTURE
Hit the Mountain State slopes for up to 1,500 feet of vertical or rolling forest backcountry.
TOGETHERNESS
Share the simple joys, like skating, snowman building, and that first trip down fresh powder.
ESCAPE
Sure-fire cure for winter chill: mountain fireplace, good company and plenty of cocoa.
Find more snowy escapes in our winter guide at GoToWV.com/winter.
PRESENT
WEST VIRGINIA
GIVEAWAY GO OUTSIDE AND PLAY IN THE WEST VIRGINIA SNOW!
ENTER TO WIN AN AMAZING PACKAGE FROM ONE OF FOUR WEST VIRGINIA RESORTS* CANNAN
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WINTERPLACE
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THE GOODS
MORE GEAR
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BEST IN SNOW SNOWSHOE TERRAIN PARK MANAGER PHILLIP YATES PICKS HIS FAVORITE GEAR FOR WINTER ADVENTURE by GRAHAM AVERILL
V
ery few people get more days on the snow than Phillip Yates, the terrain park manager for Snowshoe Mountain Resort. The job entails everything from helping fabricate features to running the snowcat and shaping the hits in Snowshoe’s five terrain parks. But Yates also spends half his time testing the features in those parks, and he rarely misses a day on the hill. “It’s called ‘flow evaluation,’ where we do lap after lap on the parks to make sure everything is running smoothly,” Yates says with a smile. “On average, I get 100 days of riding per season between Thanksgiving and early April.” Bagging 100 days of continuous riding in Snowshoe’s infamously brutal conditions has turned Yates into a bit of a gear snob. Everything in his kit has to work well, day in, day out. We asked the snowboarder to detail his five most trustworthy pieces of gear.
SMITH I/O ($150) I’ve been running the Smith I/O series for three years now, and will be using Smith’s new I/0 7 this year. These goggles blend the perfect fit with perfect functionality. The anti fog is stellar ($210). I pair the goggles with the Smith Maze helmet. It’s super light and super low profile. I don’t feel like I have a giant melon on my head. Most of the time, I forget it’s there. NEVER SUMMER WARLOCK ($519) I have nothing bad to say about the Nitro board I’ve been using for the last couple of seasons, but this year I’m switching to the Never Summer Warlock. I haven’t had the chance to ride it yet, but I’m excited. It’s a super soft, freestyle twin board with a really unusual shape; it’s kind of square on both ends. It should be fun on our little mountain. BURTON AK 2L CYCLIC JACKET / PANTS (From $389) I look for good water proofing in my outer shell. It has to stand up to wet conditions and last for more than a couple of months. I’ve trusted the Burton AK Line with GORE-TEX for years. The AK Line holds up really well.
THIRTYTWO TM-TWO ($310) I’m really impressed with these boots, which have held up for three seasons. It’s a nice, stiff boot for the serious boarder who’s making serious turns. I give these boots a “5-Star” rating all the way around, from the water proofing to the durability to the comfort.
GREGORY TARGHEE 32 ($169) The Targhee 32 was built for the backcountry, but is streamlined enough to fit into my resort days too. There’s plenty of room for PBJs, hand warmers and a beer for dad, but also a handy ski carry strap system that allows me to carry my skis on my back, so I can have extra hands for my kids’ gear. REFRIGIWEAR FLEXWARE TOP ($70) The Flex-Wear Hybrid Top protects core warmth while maintaining range of motion. Lightweight and comfortable, the arms and back are made of stretchy, flexible fabric that moves with you. It offers a quilted torso for warmth, hand warmer pockets, and a stand-up collar that won’t sag even with intense activity.
SHOWERS PASS HI-VIS TORCH CYCLING JACKET ($325) The reflective Torch jacket is fully waterproof and has LED lights with three flashing modes integrated into the jacket. It also features an internal venting system for adjustable cooling with core vents, a chest pocket with audio port, a back vent, and airflow-regulating cuffs. REVOMAX VACUUM INSULATED FLASK ($30) This twist-free, thread-less bottle makes opening and closing easier than ever. Use one hand, press a button, and pop it open for a quick sip, and then seal it tight with the same button. It keeps hot or cold beverages ready for 15 hours. D E C E M B E R 2 016 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M
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the authentic outdoor sports voice of america
Don’t miss Snowshoe Mountain’s 3rd Annual Winter Brewfest! We’ll be serving up some of West Virginia’s finest microbrews, cool souvenir cups, and live performances from Optimus Riff and Lewisburg’s own The Spanglers. And the party doesn’t stop there. We’ve got festivals in store for you all season long.
Snowshoe Mountain’s 3rd Annual Winter Brewfest DEC 17 College Winter Break JAN 6 - 8
Outdoor Adventure Media is a network of regional outdoor sports, adventure lifestyle magazines. Each OAM publication is the definitive guide to outdoor recreation, travel and gear in its region. EAST COAST
ROCKY MTNS
WEST COAST
Homegrown MARCH 3 - 5 Ballhooter MARCH 10 - 12
TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CONTACT MARTHA EVANS 877.441.4386 | snowshoemtn.com
2016 Gift Giving Guide Barracks Road Shopping Center Charlottesville 434.995.5669 Hilltop East Shopping Center Virginia Beach 757.962.6618
Feel at home. Anywhere. 48
R I C H M O N D VA B E A C H E D I T I O N / D E C E M B E R 2 01 6
BlueRidgeOutdoors
GreatOutdoorProvision.com GoOutAndPlay
BlueRidgeOutdoors
OUTDOOR D-BAGS
No, we are not talking about dirtbags here. In the outdoors, as in life, you wtill encounter personalities that rub you the wrong way, offend you, repel you, and even cause you to reconsider every life choice you’ve ever made. It’s time to meet the worst people in the outdoor world. by RACHEL WALKER
M
any years ago, as a sneaky teenager flirting with the prospect of shoplifting, I slipped through the carved wooden doors of Mountain Chalet, the mountaineering shop in my hometown. There, a taut and tanned employee spent hours helping me select the internal frame backpack on which I’d spend a year’s worth of babysitting earnings. I was indecisive, so she showed me pack after pack. She demonstrated how to adjust the straps. She even added and removed sand bags so I could feel how different packs distributed weight. As she buzzed around, I noticed a shiny Petzl headlamp left on the counter, tags still on. I couldn’t afford both the pack and the light, but I wanted both. It wasn’t even a decision; I simply knew I’d steal the headlamp, and I monitored it throughout my packfitting endeavor hoping no one would put it back where it belonged, with the other pricey headlamps under lock and key. But between fastening that hip belt on my tenth pack and ringing up my purchase an hour later, I made a better choice. Crime was not in my future. Instead, I wanted to be just like the woman who helped me, a muscled and confident part-time Outward Bound instructor who
had regaled me with tales of skiing Pikes Peak, sea kayaking in Baja and cooking a Thanksgiving turkey in a pit dug way out in the Utah desert. This was circa 1990, and that kind, expansive woman lured me into what would become a very long and persevering relationship with outdoor adventures. Since then, I’ve met many an intrepid, inspiring explorer. But in the past 26 years I have also met multitudes of people who, frankly, were annoying as hell. Unlike that guardian angel who inadvertently kept me out of juvie, there are people who gravitate to the outdoors who are selfish, shallow, and selfabsorbed. Douchebags. A-holes. Worse. We bet you know a few. If not, here are some of the ones we find most offensive.
THE DIMINUTIZER Before going to college, I took a semester off and landed a scholarship for a Colorado Outward Bound School backcountry ski and
#TRASHTAG: WHEN THE SOCIAL MEDIA MAVEN FINDS THAT DUDE WHO DOES EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO DO (BUT BETTER) AND THEY MAKE SURE THEY INCESSANTLY SHARE THEIR ADORABLE, EDGY MILLENNIAL BLISS, ITS TIME TO DELETE YOUR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT AND START WORKING IN A DISPENSARY. photo by ANDREW BYDLON / CAVEMAN COLLECTIVE
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P R O T E C T I N G W I L D P L A C E S F O R T H E I R H A B I TAT A N D R E C R E AT I O N VA L U E S.
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mountaineering course. For 12 days in January, we skied and camped in the Collegiate Mountains near Leadville, and I discovered I loved skinning uphill. I also learned I had a paralyzing fear of exposure. Despite gravity’s steadfast ability to keep my body earth-bound, I entertained visions of plummeting off mountainsides, even when there were no nearby cliffs to tumble from. This fear manifested in shaking legs and tearful eyes, short breaths, and a proliferation of snot, all of which came on in force the day we skied to the top of Mount Elbert, Colorado’s highest peak at 14,439 feet. The instructor who was stuck with me clearly thought he got the short end of the stick when I stopped mid skin and refused to advance. “This isn’t even steep!” he exclaimed. I stifled a sob and shuffled forward, dizzy with doubt. “Seriously,” he continued, “I did harder climbs when I was nine.” I whimpered. “You realize you’re not mountaineer quality, right?” I asked
if we had to reach the summit. Jaw clenched, he nodded. Under his breath, but loud enough so I could hear, he whispered he was so sick of this shit. Then he said out loud, “One more month. That’s all that’s standing between me and Everest.” We made the summit and I even skied down. He was the first true asshole I met in the outdoors, but definitely not the last.
asked, “You from around here?” “No, we’re from Boulder.” Eye rolls. Then one of them pulled out a phone and dialed a number. “Yo,” she said into the receiver. “In-bounds is over. Meet us on Four Pines. OB is where it’s at.” She paused and glared at us before continuing her conversation. “At least until all the tourons ski it out.”
THE LOCAL
Last winter, I invited a friend to a fancy, high-priced ski resort for a day on the slopes—my treat. Actually, that’s somewhat disingenuous. I was reporting a story, and the resort PR folks gave me an extra ticket (at my request) so I could bring a friend, which would add color to my piece. So when I say I treated her to a day of skiing, that’s true, but I didn’t pay actual money for her ticket. So maybe I shouldn’t be bothered that she asked me to pay for parking. And for gas money. And she didn’t offer to buy me a beer or lunch or anything to say, hey, thanks for saving me
Several years ago my husband and I skied out the gate into the backcountry abutting Wyoming’s Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. We followed tracks south to the top of a popular canyon called Four Pines. While we contemplated our options for descending, a group skied up with enough duct tape on their ski poles to hold a life raft together. When they lifted their goggles, the raccoon tans on their faces were so severe it led to a singular conclusion: These men and women skied all day, every day. They eyed us up and down and then boldly
THE MOOCH
r e t n i W
$180 on a day pass. Note to readers: Always offer to buy a beer for the person getting you a discount or pro deal or anything free (even if it didn’t cost them money but came through professional contacts). If they don’t drink, chocolate goes a long way.
THE BRAGGART
If he’s child-free and single, it’s the many days he’s logged climbing/ camping/mountain biking/living in his truck/surfing in Mexico/surfing in Oregon/driving Canada’s Icefields Parkway/riding Moab/climbing Half Dome/being a raft guide/poaching the wilderness on his mountain bike/ boating the Grand Canyon/being fearless and lackadaisical and free— certainly much more free than you, you putz. If he’s got kids, it’s that he’s booked every campsite every weekend from now through three months from now, and that his kid hiked four miles to a remote backcountry campsite without complaint, and that junior can already ski the back bowls and he’s still in kindergarten! This person
in the heart of Southern West Virginia
Mild or wild, winter adventures are endless in Raleigh County—the heart of Southern West Virginia. From cabins to Coal Town Christmas and the most accessible ski resort in the southeast, we’ve got it and it’s all steeped in southern charm and hospitality.
RaleighCountyEvents.com
855-977-1785
D E C E M B E R 2 016 / B L U E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M
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WHETHER YOU SKI OR SNOWBOARD WE HAVE THE BRANDS THAT WILL KEEP YOU WARM.
ALREADY ON THE SLOPES? SHOP AT OUR WINTERGREEN LOCATION Trail Blazers | 434-325-2199
475 Westfield Rd. | Charlottesville, VA | 22901 | freestyleonline.com | 434.978.4091
forgot (or never knew) that there is too much of a good thing, especially when talking about his own awesomeness.
THE SOCIAL MEDIA MAVEN Who cares how #blessed you are when you #exploremore and #getoutside? Doing #SUPyoga at #sunrise doesn’t make you more #blissed than me. Especially when I see it on your Insta/Twitter/Facebook/ Snapchat feed within minutes of said #accomplishment. Instead it’s like #OMFG.
THE REARVIEW MIRROR LOOKER
Mention mountain biking in Crested Butte, and most people exclaim how rad the 401 trail is. Let them have Schofield Pass. The real goods are out of Crested Butte South, up the Cement Creek Drainage, where a 20-plus-mile loop known as Reno/ Bear/Flagg/Deadman rewards three quad-burning, multi-mile climbs with as many single track descents. They’re long and flow through meadows of
wildflowers, aspen groves, and oasislike creek crossings. This is supreme mountain bike riding, except for when it’s not. And the conditions are not superlative after heavy storms when pounding rain leaves big divots in the trail, or after the motocross folks tear up the trails, leaving a thick layer of dust where there once was tacky dirt. It’s a Jekyll and Hyde situation, the same trail, two polar opposite experiences. Which means you may end up riding it with someone who starts off raving about the flow, the climbs, only to emerge dusty, bloodied (from falling into the trail ruts), and complaining about how—seriously— this was so amazing last season. “Honestly,” she’ll whine, “you should have ridden it then. It was so rad. You’re really missing out now.” And, if I’m being completely honest, that pain in the ass whiner might actually be me. THE TOURON SALUTE: IT WAS ALL SO MUCH BETTER BEFORE YOU. photo by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN
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Paul's Boots Friends and strangers carried hiking shoes 2,189 miles in memory of an aspiring thru-hiker
by ERIC WALLACE
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big, laughter-loving Australian of 6 foot 3 inches, working as a telephone company draftsman by day, Paul Evans preferred to spend his downtime either leading a troop of Boy Scouts or exploring the outback. More than anything else, he delighted in nature. In fact, when his bride-to-be, M’Lynn Markel, left California in 1998, one of the first things the newlyweds did together was go camping. The decision was fortuitous: The couple fell in love with being outside together, and made a pact to hit the trail whenever possible. For about six years, Paul and M’Lynn spent the bulk of their weekends and vacations outdoors and, preferably, in the wilderness. Life was good. They were wildly happy. Then, like a freight-train, came the problems. First, Paul’s mother was diagnosed with Parkinson’s. With his father suffering from Alzheimer’s, 42-yearold Paul took on the role of caretaker. Four years later, his mother passed. Meanwhile, his father’s condition continued to worsen. The gaps between hiking trips grew and grew. In the interim, Paul’s health deteriorated. By the end of 2014, he’d suffered a series of heart attacks. The damage was so extensive, a walk down the block demanded numerous breaks. Hiking became out of the question. However, even as his body failed him, Paul began to pack for a trip he’d dreamed of completing but never gotten around to—a thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail. Listening to the Dirtbag Diaries podcast series, he was thrilled with its tales of gritty thru-hikers weathering the elements and overcoming mental and physical obstacles to achieve their dream of finishing the trail. Inspired, he ordered guidebooks. Plotted routes. Packed his backpack. Organized gear. And, lastly, placed his hiking boots beside the door. Only, on July 23 of 2015, just two weeks before his 53rd birthday, Paul passed away. Shattered by the unexpected loss,
raw with grief, M’Lynn wrote a letter to the producers of podcast, asking if they could help get her late-husband’s boots onto the A.T. The company said yes, and, after partnering with REI, did just that. From March to late-September of 2016, a group of 28 hikers banded together to carry three separate pairs of ‘Paul’s Boots’ along the entire length of the Appalachian Trail— over 6,600 miles, collectively. Known as Paul’s Protectors, participants ranged from age eight to 70, from newbies to last-shot veterans. Along the way, they recorded their experiences with GoPro cameras, posting reflections and photos to social media so that M’Lynn could follow along from home. WHAT WAS IT ABOUT THE PAUL’S BOOTS PROJECT THAT APPEALED TO YOU AND MADE YOU WANT TO PARTICIPATE?
Bonnie Elozory AGE 50
PROTECTOR THROUGH SHENANDOAH NATIONAL PARK
I’d dreamed of thru-hiking the A.T. all my life. When I turned 50, it hit me that I’d better do it now, because this old body was never going to be any more able than it was today. Knowing Paul missed his opportunity just slayed me. I was overcome with sadness. When I heard Paul’s story, I knew that if my daughters and I carried his boots, the act could give M’Lynn and his family the same kind of healing being on the trail gave us.
Matt Maszczak
AGE 40, REI EMPLOYEE PROTECTOR FROM SAGE’S RAVINE IN MASSACHUSETTS TO NEW YORK
When I heard Paul’s story, I could imagine myself in his boots. I turned 40 this year. I’m out of shape, and I’m always too busy to do what I really love. But I dream about it a lot. I make big plans, but don’t always follow through. I felt like I got Paul. I had to do this because, if I didn’t, nothing amazing would happen. If you want amazing, you gotta get off your ass and go get it. This was my
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chance to do that. WHAT WAS IT LIKE ACTUALLY CARRYING THE BOOTS?
Alex Newlon AGE 28
AN EPILEPTIC THRU-HIKING WITH PAUL’S BOOTS
The boots are heavy—I mean, they’re a size 13! With no way for me to wear them along the trail, I hung them on the side of my pack. However, I did put them on and walk around in them when I was in town taking a zero day… And when I was on the trail, I thought about Paul all the time. I’d ask him what he’d like to do, what he’d liked to eat, or even which campsite he preferred. In that way, carrying the boots was like having a guardian angel, or a really great friend along for the ride.
Tricia Nesser
AGE 51, PHYSICIAN’S ASSISTANT PROTECTOR THROUGH THE PRESIDENTIAL PEAKS IN THE WHITE MOUNTAINS
To be honest, I’m extremely scared of heights. Like, crazy scared. So whenever I was crossing water on planks, or climbing up and down ladders, I’d ask Paul to give me strength. Every time I asked, I’d feel this surge of courage, I’d keep going. Similarly, when the weather report was bad, or there was rain, it didn’t faze me—I knew Paul was watching over and protecting me. His presence was very tangible, very real. I knew he wanted me to succeed. DESCRIBE YOUR BEST EXPERIENCE ON THE TRAIL WITH PAUL’S BOOTS?
NEWLON: Cowboy-camping on top of South Kinsman Mountain in New Hampshire, I had the opportunity to show Paul the Milky Way Galaxy. I’m not sure if he’d ever seen it before, but I know we had a great time together on top of that mountain. All alone in the middle of nowhere, staring up at the stars all night—it was the type of experience that can change you forever. MASZCZAK: My biggest revelation came on day three. I was exhausted, 56
broken, empty—I had a moment where I just wanted to quit. Then, suddenly, the trail opened up, and the sun came out, and that special kind of natural magic that only a hiker knows, began to buzz all around me. That’s when I thanked Paul and M’Lynn for kicking me out the door. I knew I was right where I was supposed to be. ELOZORY: One day, we met a group of 10th graders out on a four-day hike. They were complaining about the hardships of hiking. The kids couldn’t believe that my daughters were hiking to honor a request from “some dude’s family [they] didn’t even know.” I told them that whatever dreams they have, they shouldn’t let them slip away. That time passes quickly. When we got home, I received a beautiful letter from those kids telling us the meeting had changed the whole feeling of the trip. The kids started to accept the conditions and find the beauty in what they were doing. Paul’s dream was fulfilled in an unexpectedly different way. YOUR WORST EXPERIENCE?
NEWLON: There was one rough day along the trail when I was climbing up a mountain, beaten-down, just staring at my feet. Then Paul’s boots kicked me in my left arm. I looked up and saw a deer standing in the middle of the trail just staring at me. It was as if Paul was trying to show me something. He was telling me to pay more attention to the beauty of the world around me. ELOZORY: Near the end of our hike, the shelters and surrounding areas were too crowded to comfortably camp. Eventually, we decided we’d just hike out to Rockfish Gap. With the darkness and our tired legs, the hike seemed to go on and on. We ended up walking about 30 miles in total. At one point, exhausted and hungry, my daughter began to cry. She was totally spent. I was singing songs and telling stories in an attempt
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to cheer her up. She asked how I could continue to be so cheerful, and I told her it was because I was so happy to be alive, to be here with her and to be carrying Paul’s boots. WHAT DID YOU TAKE AWAY FROM THE EXPERIENCE?
Brittany Leavitt
SMITHSONIAN EDUCATOR PROTECTOR FROM ASHBY GAP, VA. TO HARPER’S FERRY, W.VA.
I was honored to be able to help someone accomplish a dream. Meanwhile, in doing so, the experience taught me what true love is really about. M’Lynn wanted to make sure Paul’s dream came true. It was amazing to see how many people came together from all over to make sure his boots made the full
thru-hike. It just goes to show you how amazing the outdoor community truly is. MASZCZAK: When I signed up, I thought this would be a great way to honor someone. Now, I realize that it was so much more. The A.T. is like nowhere else in the world. It’s the only place I’ve ever been where I instantly felt like I belonged. When people heard what I was doing, they smiled and nodded. They weren’t surprised. It made sense. You know, the thing about this life, the normal one we all succumb to, it hardly ever makes any sense. But life on the trail? That life has meaning and honor, and it just makes sense in every single moment. And I learned that because of Paul.
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TRAIL MIX
12 . 16
CHOICE PICKS
10 BEST 2016 ALBUMS FROM ARTISTS WITH SOUTHERN ROOTS
by JEDD FERRIS
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fter wading through a sea of great releases this year, here’s our top 10 list of albums from acts who hail from the Blue Ridge region. DRIVE-BY TRUCKERS AMERICAN BAND
This poignant political record is easily the Drive-By Truckers’ best effort since the band’s early 2000s breakout period. Co-band leaders Mike Cooley and Patterson Hood are both at the top of their songwriting games, especially the latter in the soulful “Guns of Umpqua,” a simultaneously beautiful and terrifying song written about victims of last year’s mass shooting at Oregon’s Umpqua Community College. HISS GOLDEN MESSENGER HEART LIKE A LEVEE
On his band’s sixth album, Durham-based singersongwriter M.C. Taylor spills honest musings about guilt and missing home during long stints on the road, while expanding the group’s sound within the roots lexicon. Throughout the record’s 11 tracks, a base of swinging alt-country that fits with Taylor’s nasally, Dylanlike enunciations, fluidly expands with touches of Southern funk, horn-driven Muscle Shoals soul, and uplifting gospel—facilitated by backing vocals from songstress Tift Merritt. 58
CAR SEAT HEADREST TEENS OF DENIAL
Much like Pavement, Guided by Voices, and Weezer before him, Will Toledo, who records as Car Seat Headrest, turns witty angst into distorted glory. He built a cult following while growing up in Leesburg, Va., by self-releasing 12 albums he largely recorded by himself. Teens of Denial, with a full backing band, is full of seriously great rock and roll—fist-pumping anthems built from youthful confusion. MARGO PRICE
MIDWEST FARMER’S DAUGHTER
A hardworking East Nashville songwriter gets her due on this dynamic debut for Jack White’s Third Man Records. She has a voice that’s as sweet as Dolly’s, but her songs use traditional country as a base to get downright gritty, rocking, and soulful. ANGEL OLSEN MY WOMAN
Asheville, N.C., resident Angel Olsen has received high critical praise for her third LP, My Woman, and it is definitely deserved. Her gift is a voice that can be equally graceful, powerful, haunting, and full
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of heartfelt fury. Here you get the full range through emotionally charged retro arrangements—from the jangly pop of “Never Be Mine” and urgent garage rock scorcher “Shut Up Kiss Me” to more drawn-out experiments like the slowly drifting, theatrically intense break-up song, “Sister.” STURGILL SIMPSON A SAILOR’S GUIDE TO EARTH
With lofty expectations on his shoulders following the success of his cosmic country breakout Metamodern Sounds in Country Music, Simpson delivered by veering in a different sonic direction, filling A Sailor’s Guide to Earth with horn blasts and dusty soul grooves. Standouts include Simpson giving advice to his young son through the funk stomper “Keep It Between the Lines” and a haunting roadhouse reading of Nirvana’s “In Bloom.” BAND OF HORSES WHY ARE YOU OK
A revitalized Band of Horses found the sweet spot between atmospheric indie fireworks and take-it-easy 70s folk-rock. Front man Ben Bridwell found songwriting inspiration in the mundane, meditating about family time through Floydian space in
the opening “Dull Times/ The Moon” and turning bad conversation at a “Casual Party” into a distortion-heavy dance tune. The gentle “Hag” has the ethereal flow of the band’s decade-old breakout single, “The Funeral.” Even in a dad-rock headspace the Charleston, S.C.,-based Bridwell found a way to recapture his early glory. LUCINDA WILLIAMS THE GHOSTS OF HIGHWAY 20
The 63-year-old Americana icon took a trip down memory lane, revisiting her experiences growing up in the South through the common thread of Interstate 20. Williams uses her quavering voice to tell vivid stories through dusty roots-rock arrangements with experimental touches that give the record a cinematic quality. The meandering opener, “Dust,” is one of the album’s most poignant tracks, adapted from a poem by Williams’ father, the late poet laureate Miller Williams. WILLIAM TYLER MODERN COUNTRY
Nashville guitarist William Tyler has played with the likes of Lambchop and the Silver Jews, and he brings an indie aesthetic to this collection of captivating guitar-led instrumentals. BlueRidgeOutdoors
With an impressive backup roster that includes Wilco drummer Glenn Kotche and Brad and Phil Cook of Megafaun, Tyler explores a range of sonic landscapes through both acoustic and electric sixstring dexterity, managing, without words, to evoke the feelings implied in titles like “Highway Anxiety” and “Gone Clear.” The closing track, the eight-minute “The Great Unwind,” travels between the experimental jazz flourishes of Bill Frisell and the emotional peaks of Explosions in the Sky. ST. PAUL AND THE BROKEN BONES SEA OF NOISE
Following up its hailed 2014 debut, Half the City, this eight-piece Alabama soul crew avoided the sophomore slump by adding some rock edge and honest social commentary to its impressive vintage revivalism. Front man Paul Janeway is a versatile vocal powerhouse. He both howls like a fiery preacher and croons like a tenderhearted lover, as tempos shift between the down-and-dirty funk of “Flow With It (You Got Me Feeling Like”), the moving retro ballad “Burning Rome,” and the gospel-rock unity anthem “All I Ever Wonder.” GoOutAndPlay
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