Blue Ridge Outdoors December 2020 - January 2021

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Winter

Adventures WHE RE TO S K I, CL IM B, A N D SN OW S H O E IN T H E S O U T H

REFLECTIONS FROM 2020: THE YEAR OF LIVING OUTDOORS

NEW YEAR, NEW GEAR Close Call: Adventurer Survives an Aneurysm

Low Country

ESCAPES + H OW TO E M B R AC E T H E C O L D + THE U ND E R GR O UN D WO R L D O F CAV IN G

STAY A PART OF WINTER FUN Whatever you’re a part of.

Stay that way.

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40 PARKS TO T E S T YO U R R E S O LV E

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CONTENTS

PRESIDENT BLAKE DEMASO b l a ke @ b l u e r i d g e o u t d o o r s . c o m E D I TO R I N C H I E F J E D D F E R R I S jedd@blueridgeoutdoors.com P U B L I S H E R L E A H WO O DY leah@blueridgeoutdoors.com

ON THE COVER D R E W F L O R E S C AT C H E S A I R I N T H E T E R R A I N PA R K AT B E E C H M O U N TA I N RESORT IN THE NORTH CAROLINA HIGH C O U N T R Y. P H O T O B Y S A M D E A N

DECEMBER 2020 - JANUARY 2021

D E PA R T M E N T S

C R E AT I V E D I R E C TO R L AU R E N WO R T H lauren@blueridgeoutdoors.com

7 | QUICK HITS

A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S H E R K AT I E H A R T W E L L katie@blueridgeoutdoors.com

Head underground with an experienced caver.

E D I TO R I A L & P R O D U C T I O N

10 | EXPLORE

S E N I O R E D I TO R W I L L H A R L A N will@blueridgeoutdoors.com

C O N T R I B U TO R S

48 | PERSPECTIVE

D O U G S C H N I T Z S PA H N G R A H A M AV E R I L L ASHLEY STIMPSON NICK CARTER MIKE BEZEMEK BETTINA FREESE DAV E S TA L L A R D MORGAN SIMMONS

Reflections from a year of living outside.

10

50 | REFLECTIONS

C O P Y E D I TO R S JULIA GREEN, ROBERT MCGEE

Lessons from cooperation in the woods.

ADVERTISING & BUSINESS S E N I O R AC C O U N T E X E C U T I V E

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M A R T H A E VA N S

martha@blueridgeoutdoors.com AC C O U N T E X E C U T I V E H A N N A H C O O P E R hcooper@blueridgeoutdoors.com AC C O U N T E X E C U T I V E TAY LO R L E A L taylor@blueridgeoutdoors.com B U S I N E S S M A N AG E R M E L I S S A G E S S L E R melissa@blueridgeoutdoors.com

27 | RECOVERING WHAT’S LOST AND FORGOTTEN

D I G I TA L C O N T E N T S P E C I A L I S T

S H A N N O N M C G OWA N

shannon@blueridgeoutdoors.com

Meet a Baltimore-based relic hunter searching for remnants of the past.

C I R C U L AT I O N I N Q U I R I E S circulation@blueridgeoutdoors.com

35 | EMBRACE THE COLD

Winter is upon us, and despite the frigid temps, it’s time to stay stoked about being outside.

PUBLISHING

39 | LEADER OF THE PACK

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Meet the guy who’s been leading llamas up Tennessee’s rugged Mount LeConte since 2002.

200 DISTRICT DRIVE, UNIT 8 ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA 28803

40 | RIVER REVITALIZATION

B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

During times of hardship, community leaders in North Carolina are once again looking to the Roanoke River.

B LU E R I D G E O U T D O O R S . C O M

P H O T O B Y C L AY M C C R E A R Y

©2020 Summit Publishing, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

GOT A STORY IDEA OR COMMENT?

We’re looking forward to some snow days in the South.

Here’s where we’ll be snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and climbing. Plus, a look at how to ski safely during the ongoing pandemic.

We’ve got a rundown on the best new outdoor equipment and apparel coming in 2021.

O N L I N E D I R E C TO R C R A I G S N O D G R A S S webdir@blueridgeoutdoors.com

submit@blueridgeoutdoors.com

12 | THIS WINTER GO WILD

18 | NEW YEAR, NEW GEAR

D I G I TA L M E D I A

SUMMIT

F E AT U R E S

42 | CUMBERLAND IN CRISIS

A commercial rocket facility could regularly close a national seashore in Georgia to the public.

44 | CLOSE CALL

An avid adventurer faces her toughest challenge yet, when she’s suddenly hit with a brain aneurysm.

PHOTO BY MIKE BEZEMEK

If the mountains get too cold, escape to the coast and explore these Low Country winter adventures.

T R AV E L E D I TO R E L L E N K A N Z I N G E R ellen@blueridgeoutdoors.com

OPEN SPACES

CHECK CHE CH ECK OFF Y YOUR OUR

ADVENTURE ADVENT D DVENT URE BUCKET LIST THIS HOLIDAY!

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS | NORTHERN EDITION

QUICK HITS

SOUTHERN CAVING

CRAWLING INTO A HOLE IN THE GROUND A N E X P E RT CAV E R O F F E R S I N S I G H T I N TO E X P LO R I N G W H AT ’ S U N D E R N E AT H

BY NICK CARTER

C

avers have a reputation for being kind of weird. Their recreation takes place in darkness, where it’s cold and wet with tight squeezes, conditions for which most people have a deep and innate aversion. Throw in dizzying

heights and complete isolation from the outside world, and it’s easy to see why it takes a special type of person to enjoy crawling into a hole in the ground.

Yet cavers are secretive, as if putting the word out would send throngs of tourists into the earth to experience a lifestyle best suited to salamanders. That's the conundrum caver Chris Baty struggles with.

On one hand, caves are extremely delicate places, where human visitors can permanently mar beauty that has slowly formed over millions of years.

On the other hand, the skills and techniques of caving must be passed down if the sport is to survive.

Twenty years ago, Baty explored his first wild cave as a 13-year-old Boy Scout. Local caver Bush Middleton volunteered to take a bunch of rowdy scouts into Pettyjohn’s Cave, just outside their small hometown of LaFayette, Ga. The experience stuck with Baty, who continued deeper into the sport as one by one his caving

buddies moved on to other pursuits.

At 33, Baty is now a trained and certified member of Walker County, Georgia’s Cave and Cliff Rescue Team. Always on call, the team has been pulling people out of holes and off cliff faces since it formed from a caving club in the 1970s. Today, the team of 15 to 20 volunteers is embedded within the county’s fire department, where cross-training has developed a roster of firefighters, EMTs, and outdoor enthusiasts equipped to carry out search and rescue in extreme environments.

The team evolved out of necessity in an area rich with resources for adventurous people. In the low mountains of northwest Georgia, Walker County is part of a rugged region referred to as TAG Corner. TAG is where Tennessee, Alabama and Georgia meet. Here, on the southern end of the Cumberland Plateau, eons of geology have created an outdoor playground that calls to climbers with acres of boulder gardens and long DECEMBER 2020 - JANUARY

C H R I S B AT Y E X P L O R E S T H E M O R E T H A N 1 4 , 0 0 0 K N O W N C AV E S I N T H E R U G G E D A R E A W H E R E T E N N E S S E E , G E O R G I A , A N D A L A B A M A M E E T. PHOTO BY NICK CARTER

bands of high sandstone cliffs.

For cavers, adventure lies beneath the sandstone, where 300 million years ago an ancient sea deposited a layer of sediment that hardened to limestone. Over geologic time, rainwater seeping through the soil carved out a subterranean world in the limestone karst. There are more than 14,000 known caves in TAG, and likely more waiting to be discovered.

“TAG’s special,” said Baty. “There’s a lot of people who move to TAG just for it. There’s people who come from all over the world to experience it.”

A feature that makes TAG special is the thickness of the karst. With a limestone layer more than 500 feet deep, the region is renowned for vertical caves, where underground waterfalls spill into deep pits and the rope work of cave exploration is extremely technical, like underground mountaineering.

2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 7

The region is an epicenter for vertical caving. Huntsville, Ala. is the headquarters of the National Speleological Society. Pigeon Mountain Industries (PMI), in LaFayette, pioneered the market for burly, almost indestructible caving ropes. Baty said he knows and trusts his neighbors who make his ropes and stitch his harnesses.

Walker County’s Ellison’s Cave features the two deepest free-fall pits in the continental United States. The cave system spreads over 12 miles and more than 1,000 vertical feet.

Fantastic Pit is the headliner pitch, with a spectacular 586-foot rappel to the cave floor. Obviously, it is not a place for beginners.

Every few years, the Cliff and Cave Rescue Team, along with members and resources from other regional rescue organizations, are called upon to descend Ellison’s and haul someone out. And Ellison’s is just one of many regional caves where rescues are needed. Baty said the team is called out about once a month, sometimes to caves, sometimes to cliffs, and sometimes to find lost hikers.

The thing about cave rescue is the environment makes everything more difficult. Many times injuries

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

are severe, communication with the outside world is impossible, and hypothermia is a constant danger.

In 2011, two college students died of hypothermia in Ellison’s Cave when they were trapped in a waterfall by their rappelling ropes.

Symptoms of hypothermia include disorientation and loss of coordination that amplify the danger of an already precarious environment. This can occur in just a few minutes, and cave rescue is not a speedy process.

“There’s nothing fast about cave rescue,” said Baty. “If you fall an hour in, it takes your buddy an hour to get out and even longer to get to cell service.”

And that’s just to put out a call for help.

Baty recalled his first cave rescue four years ago. A man had stumbled into a 30-foot pit while exploring Byer’s Cave in Dade County, Georgia. He suffered severe head and chest injuries inside a challenging cave known for extremely tight spaces and vertical drops. It took 12 hours for rescuers to stabilize the man, “package” him in a basket, and devise an elaborate system of ropes and pullies to transport him to the surface. According to a local news report, rescuers had to

rig three separate vertical hauls and a high-line traverse system to carry the man out of the cave.

All of that rope work is part of the reason Baty enjoys exploring vertical caves. He said the knowledge he’s gained from the rescue team, as well as through coursework with the National Cave Rescue Commission, has expanded his abilities and increased his enjoyment of cave exploration. With a limit on the amount of gear it’s feasible to carry, vertical caving is three-dimensional problem solving. Knots and equipment are important, and so are spatial awareness, an ability to improvise, and mental acuity.

“I like how it mentally and physically keeps me sharp,” Baty said.

“You need to be 100 percent sure with yourself… You need to pay really close attention to yourself, ask yourself if you’re thinking clearly. And you have to watch your buddy, too.”

And a trusted buddy is essential.

Like trad climbing, caving is a team sport. Those interested in giving it a try, however, might have trouble finding a mentor, because the sport is… well… underground. It’s not a visible activity that encourages publicity or showboating.

“We get nasty; we’ve got mud all over our faces; we’ve got bat shit on us,” Baty said. “We come out and our T-shirts are ripped. Most of us look like we’re homeless when we’re going.

It’s just a bunch of ratted, tatted ol’ people. We don’t do it to look cool, that’s for sure. It’s like the hidden sport, almost.”

The National Speleological Society is a resource to find cavers.

There are regional groups where it’s possible to meet like-minded people and lifelong friends. Although stressing that he is by no means the most experienced or knowledgeable caver out there, Baty tries to pass on his love of the sport by taking local Boy Scouts into the ground, like Middleton did two decades ago.

“It’s a craft, and it really needs to be passed down to responsible people,” Baty said. “It will die if it’s not carried on. I think it’s really cool that a man took me, and now I’m in this county doing the same thing. That kind of inspires me. Maybe I might influence somebody like that?”

If nothing else, Baty is showing those scouts something not too many people have an opportunity to experience.

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SOUTHERN COAST

LOW COUNTRY WINTER ESCAPES C O M E D OW N F R O M T H E M O U N TA I N S F O R T H E S E C OASTA L A DV E N T U R E S O N WAT E R A N D L A N D

BY MIKE BEZEMEK

J

ust figuring out the whole “where is Low Country?” thing can be an adventure. Most define it as starting south of Myrtle Beach, continuing along coastal South Carolina, and ending somewhere—possibly down in Georgia.

But exactly how far north and south to draw any unofficial borders depends on who you ask.

Regardless, if you’re looking for a warm winter escape with surprising outdoor potential for paddling, biking, and hiking, then give these overlooked adventures a chance. Sure, they may be located in one of the flattest parts of the U.S., but this scenic region includes dense longleaf pine forests, bald cypress wetlands, blackwater rivers, pristine beaches, pleasant campgrounds, and tidal channels winding through cordgrass.

MYRTLE BEACH AREA, SOUTH CAROLINA

Begin by looking past Myrtle Beach’s high-rise hotels and sprawling housing developments. Paddlers will want to check out the remarkable blackwater Waccamaw River—specifically parts of the 140-mile Blue Trail, designated in 2009 by American Rivers. One option is the headwaters at Lake Waccamaw, the largest of the inland Carolina bays in the Southeast. The easier option is to paddle on the lake, while the more adventurous can explore the wild upper river below Lake Waccamaw State Park.

There are dozens of access points along the winding river, which is lined by bald cypresses draped with Spanish moss and home to countless birds and A BIKER RIDES A TRAIL THROUGH THE C U M B E R L A N D I S L A N D N AT I O N A L S E A S H O R E .

PHOTO BY MIKE BEZEMEK

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

other wildlife. Popular options on the lower river include paddling up the Blue Trail from the quaint riverside town of Conway. Downstream, you can explore the Waccamaw National Wildlife Refuge.

Or paddle to bridge-less Sandy Island, home to a Gullah community and a preserve and nature trail managed by the Nature Conservancy.

Nearby land activities include the seven-mile Hulk Trail at the Horry County Bike and Run Park. The Myrtle Beach Area Mountain Bike Association maintains an awesome series of stacked single-track loops built into 72 acres of forested dunes created during the construction of the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW).

Worth checking out is picturesque Huntington Beach State Park. Wildlife watchers will find wetlands filled with alligators, egrets, and 300 other bird species. Walkers will find short trails and 3 miles of undeveloped beach, which are also enjoyed by sunbathers, swimmers, and surf anglers. Plus, the Moorishstyle Atalaya Castle can be explored.

Just across Highway 17 is Brookgreen Gardens, a private botanical preserve and sculpture park.

FRANCIS MARION NATIONAL FOREST, SOUTH CAROLINA

Some of the best parts of Low Country to explore are the little-developed and semi-wilderness regions in and around Francis Marion National Forest. Paddlers should start with the tidal Awendaw Creek Canoe Trail. This scenic water trail totals seven miles, three miles above Awendaw Creek Canoe Launch and four miles below. The recommended lower section ends at Buck Hall Recreation Area on the ICW, where dolphins can often be spotted.

For an even more remote paddling option, check out the Wambaw Creek Wilderness Canoe Trail, deep inside the national forest where alligators far outnumber paddlers. For a bigger experience, the Chicken Creek Canoe Trail takes paddlers out onto the lower Santee River.

Hikers and mountain bikers can check out two Low Country sections of the cross-state Palmetto Trail. The Awendaw Passage is seven miles long and often greasy in spots despite much of the eastern half being on a bluff above Awendaw Creek. The Swamp Fox Passage runs 48 miles through the heart

of the national forest. The northwestern half of the trail can be muddy or flooded, but the 13 miles between Highway 17 and Steed Creek Road is mostly on an elevated logging trace that’s typically drier.

Next, consider a short and fascinating walk on the I’on Swamp Interpretive Trail. Or take the ferry to Bulls Island in Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge, where you can bike and hike sandy roads past wetlands filled with alligators to an ominous boneyard beach.

Nearby, history buffs and walkers can visit Battery Warren, an earthen Civil War fort, and Hampton Plantation State Historic Site—paddlers (with solid navigation skills) can even arrive by boat via Hampton Creek.

GEORGIA’S SOUTHERN SEA ISLANDS By far the crown jewel of Georgia’s southern barrier islands, Cumberland Island National Seashore is a must-visit for outdoor adventurers. There you’ll discover a mix of semi-wilderness saltpruned oak woodland, and preserved slavery-era plantations and settlements.

Take the ferry (reservations

recommended) from the colonial town of St. Mary’s for a long day trip or better yet make it a few nights. Bike (bring your own or rent) the island’s main road. Hike trails into the island interior. Pitch a tent (reservations required) at Sea Camp or backpack to wilderness camps like Brickhill Bluff and Hickory Hill. Tour the Dungeness Ruins and historic Plum Orchard mansion. And for adventurous paddlers who are comfortable with changing winds and tides, consider paddling to the island—about 7 miles from the most common launch at Crooked River State Park.

If you’re looking for a bit more of a developed experience, there are two ideal options nearby. Just north is the moderately developed Jekyll Island.

Owned by the state of Georgia, there are options to paddle on tidal channels, walk trails, and cycle the island’s perimeter pathway.

Just over the border on Florida’s Amelia Island is Fort Clinch State Park, with a historic fort to explore, a beach to hunt for shark’s teeth, and a mountain bike trail.

WHITE IBISES ON A WOODEN B O A R D WA L K B O U N D A R Y AT T H E E X T E N S I V E S A L T E D MARSH IN HUNTINGTON B E A C H S TAT E P A R K . P H O T O COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES

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EXPLORING THE WINTER WILD WH E N T H E S N OW FA L L S I N T H E S O U T H , I T ’ S T I M E TO G E T O U T T H E R E . H E R E ’ S WH E R E TO C R O S S - C O U N T RY S K I , S N OWS H O E , A N D C L I M B I C E I N T H E B LU E R I D G E .

BY ELLEN KANZINGER

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

C

hip Chase, longtime owner of White Grass Ski Touring Center in West Virginia’s Canaan Valley, still gets excited at the first sight of snow. “It changes your favorite places in the world that you have always loved into this magic winter landscape,” Chase says. “Obviously if you’re in the Southeast, it’s not going to last very long. So it’s kind of like here today, gone tomorrow. It makes it pretty special. Snow is something to relish.”

Especially this year, when isolated wild lands have been embraced more than ever as safe havens, there’s never been a better time to bundle up and enjoy every bit of powder that falls in the Blue Ridge backcountry.

Winter activities in the South require the right conditions, so when the flurries accumulate, head to the mountains for one of these coldweather adventures.

GO CROSS-COUNTRY IN WEST VIRGINIA

While more popular in areas farther north with more snow, there are some scenic gems in the Blue Ridge region that offer a good introduction to cross-country skiing. White Grass is one of the best— a four-plus decade mainstay that benefits from the Canaan area’s high elevations and cold climate. The center has more than 30 miles of onsite trails, half of which are regularly groomed, and it offers fast access to the majestic terrain in the nearby Dolly Sods Wilderness and the Monongahela National Forest.

The area gets a decent stash of powder for the South, boasting an average of 90 skiable days a year, and at White Grass, they collect natural snow to feed to their trails in order to keep things running throughout the season. “We work really hard to make conditions that are thin still work,” Chase said. “How can we be open with an inch of really good packed snow? How can trails be dry and smooth? Our mode is to try to get people out there as often as we can.”

For beginners, White Grass offers cheap one-hour lessons to nail down the basics, and Chase recommends starting with shorter routes to get a feel for trail conditions. “Bite off less than you can chew,” he said. “If you come L E F T: I C E C L I M B E R S P R E PA R E T O A S C E N D A F R O Z E N L I N V I L L E FA L L S I N N O R T H C A R O L I N A . P H O T O B Y P E T E R L O R E N Z . R I G H T: C R O S S - C O U N T R Y S K I I N G AT W H I T E G R A S S S K I T O U R I N G C E N T E R I N W E S T VIRGINIA. PHOTOS BY CHIP CHASE

back and you’re tired, it’s no fun. You've got to know how far you’re going, the terrain, and where you’re going.”

Operations at White Grass will look slightly different this year due to COVID-19, with limited access inside the lodge and all food being carryout.

Paying for passes and ordering food will be done via smartphone to limit person-to-person interactions.

“I think cross-country skiers are naturally socially distanced,” Chase said. “We’re hoping to have more of a tailgate winter where people change their boots right in the car rather than coming into the lodge to do it.”

More to Explore:

Additional spots in the South that get relatively reliable snow include Virginia’s Grayson Highlands State Park, which features high-elevation open meadows and miles of trails to explore. And similar terrain can be found at Tennessee’s Roan Mountain State Park, which features vast grassy balds that get covered with more than 100 inches of snow annually.

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

SNOWSHOE THE NORTH CAROLINA HIGH COUNTRY

Set well above 5,000 feet, the North Carolina High Country is another part of the Blue Ridge that gets a fair share of powder. Snowshoeing is a great, lowimpact way to cover the craggy area’s bounty of snow-covered trails. But those who’ve never strapped snowshoes over their boots can give it a try at Sugar Mountain Resort, which offers guided tours that include equipment rentals.

Located in Banner Elk, the resort—which also has 21 downhill slopes—has guides tailor the snowshoe tour routes to participant abilities.

“It’s great exercise and half the time you don’t even know you’re exercising because often it’s just a beautiful walk in the woods during the winter,” said Kimberley Jochl, Sugar’s vice president, of snowshoeing's aerobic benefits. “It’s exhilarating.”

On Winter Trails Day (January 3, 2021) Sugar will offer free snowshoe tours all day.

Nearby, Moses Cone Memorial Park, located at mile marker 294 along the Blue Ridge Parkway near Boone, is another great place to get acquainted with walking in snowshoes. The park has 25 miles of gently sloping carriage trails that are perfect for finding a stride but also enjoying some solitude. “[Snowshoeing is] infinitely easier but has a lot of the same elements that cross-country skiing has,” said Chase, who also hosts a lot of snowshoers at White Grass. ”So you can focus more on what’s around you. You’re out in the quiet and hush of winter.”

More to Explore:

Snowshoeing can be done pretty much anywhere with enough snow, so it’s a great backyard winter activity when you’re staying close to home.

But if you’re chasing powder, another stellar spot to explore on snowshoes is Swallow Falls State Park, which has a mild-graded trail system in a scenic part of western Maryland that banks 100 inches of snow a year.

S N O W S H O E I N G I S A G R E AT WAY T O E X P L O R E B E Y O N D T H E S L O P E S AT S U G A R M O U N TA I N R E S O R T. PHOTO BY BUSHPHOTO.COM

TAKE A GUIDED ICE CLIMBING TRIP

Ice climbing can be hit or miss in the South. Ascending a frozen face is more of a rare opportunity than a regular activity in the region, but it is certainly possible to get some use out of a pick and crampons in the Blue Ridge, especially with experienced climbing guides on the lookout for the right conditions.

“Looking at the forecast, it’s still hard to predict how well a particular feature is going to form,” said Cristin Knowlton, owner of Fox Mountain Guides, an outfitter that leads ice climbing trips in North Carolina. “Our guides go out and scout the locations ahead of time to see how well formed it is. Sometimes we’ll have freeze-thaw cycles that can actually be better for ice. If it freezes up, falls out, and then refreezes, that can make for better ice than if it is just a really hard freeze one

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night. It’s important to lay eyes on the ice and see.”

Spots vary when it comes to finding a frozen slab in Appalachia, but some of North Carolina’s bestknown ice routes are found at Linville Falls and Whiteside Mountain.

Unlike climbing rock, which is a fixed medium, climbing ice is entirely dependent on the weather, so hiring a guide during prime conditions can make the experience safer and more enjoyable.

“There’s a lot you need to know about ice because there’s a lot of risk involved,” said climbing guide Anthony D’Ercole, who also says to expect a learning curve when both swinging picks and getting used to crampons on your feet. “Any time you swing into a frozen chunk of ice, it’s going to break depending on how it’s delaminated, how it formed, how the snow’s sitting on top of it, the different thermal layers, and the temperature outside.”

Fox Mountain Guides offers ice climbing day trips and multi-day courses that teach fundamentals.

More to Explore:

Up north in Virginia, Blue Ridge Mountain Guides (blueridgemtnguides.com) offers guided trips to the ice crags off the Blue Ridge Parkway, not far from Wintergreen Resort. .........................................................................

A DIFFERENT SKI SEASON

Rudy Ryback was on the slopes the day most resorts in the Southeast decided to shut down in March 2020 due to COVID-19. “It was a very somber day,” he said. “There was a lot of confusion, like should we be doing this, should we not. There were no precautions at that point. You just stayed away from people as much as possible in the lodge. It was kind of an eerie feeling being up there then.”

Ryback, who covers 17 regional ski resorts for SkiSoutheast.com, typically spends 50 to 60 days a season skiing and snowboarding. Heading into this winter, things at the resorts will look a little different from the last time he was on the slopes. “Skiing is such a social sport,” Ryback said. “You meet so many people just on the lift ride up to the top. Well, that’s going to be totally different this year.” Resorts will be spacing lift lines out to maintain social distancing. Most will not require anyone to ride up with someone not in their group, although 16

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

visitors may have to wait in line longer.

Many places, like Seven Springs Mountain Resort, have implemented a no-touch online purchasing system to allow guests to buy season passes, lift tickets, equipment rentals, and lessons ahead of time, while Snowshoe Mountain Resort will tightly regulate the number of daily lift tickets sold.

Ryback said he’s making a few personal changes as well, like packing a lunch and eating in his car to avoid spending time indoors. He also plans to spend more time skiing the backcountry away from the major resorts. “There’s a couple of these first descents off the back of Mt. Mitchell I’m trying to tackle,” Ryback said. “The conditions have to be super right. It’s so steep you kind of have to ice climb up from the bottom in certain places and you can only ski down

sections. I really think that’s the way to go this year. I think this could be the year for the true explosion of more backcountry skiing.” He’ll also spend time at Roan Mountain for some alpine touring and cross-country skiing.

As people look for activities they can do outdoors within driving distance, it’s important to remember we are still in the middle of a global pandemic. “Some of the resorts out West and in the Northeast, they’re going to be doing a reservation system just to ski because they have to keep the capacity down,” he said. “But I don’t know of any of the resorts around here doing that. I feel like there needs to be something at the very outset of the season to limit capacity.”

Ryback does see this season as a chance for resorts to reevaluate their procedures. “If there’s any one thing I’d

VA L E N T I N A D ' E R C O L E U S E S I C E A X E S A N D C R A M P O N S T O C L I M B A F R O Z E N WAT E R F A L L .

PHOTO BY ANTHONY D'ERCOLE

love for the industry down here to look into more is uphill skiing,” he said. “If I can save a spot on the chair for someone else, that’s great. I feel like I’m doing my part more. Only one or two [resorts in the Southeast] allow for this uphill skiing.

Otherwise it’s totally banned. But if there was any year, if there was anything that got just a little more interest or involvement, it might be that.” • Please check local guidelines and regulations before making plans to get outside. Confirm with locations to make sure access is open to the public. Remember to practice social distancing, wear a mask, and respect others' health when outside.

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MASSRESORT.COM/BREAKFREE

THE GOODS

TRENDS

SWEET PROTECTION TRAILBLAZER MIPS

BLUE FOREST FARMS #6 DREAM WITH CBN

2021 Gear Is Here FROM MASKS THAT KEEP YOU SAFE TO PIZZA OVENS YOU CAN PACK IN YOUR VAN TO VIRTUAL REALITY GOGGLES, THE COMING YEAR WILL BE PACKED WITH NEW INNOVATIONS WHEN IT COMES TO OUTDOOR GEAR. HERE’S THE STUFF THAT PIQUED OUR INTEREST AND WILL MAKE YOUR TIME OUT THERE (OR IN YOUR BACKYARD) EVEN BETTER IN 2021.

SIX MOONS DAYBREAKER

DANNER RIDGE ARCTIC SHADOW

GOLDWIN X SPIBER THE SWEATER

B Y D O U G S C H N I T Z S PA H N

EUREKA SPRK CAMP GRILL

ADIDAS FIVE TEN KIRIGAMI OONI FRYA

Sweet Protection Trailblazer MIPS

Trend: Safety The bike craze during the pandemic has more people out on singletrack and dirt paths, which is a very good thing. And a reliable helmet is mandatory gear. Built with a four-piece shell that makes it stronger and MIPS technology which lessens the chance of a concussion by better distributing impact, this is a brain bucket you can count on. Plus, the adjustable visor and plenty of ventilation make it comfortable on the ride. $180; sweetprotection.com

Six Moons Daybreaker

Trend: Minimalism Weighing in at just 20 ounces and able to hold all the gear you need for a big adventure in the hills or a day out hauling everything you need to keep the family happy, this simple 18

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

pack has been appreciated in recent days when we’ve been reevaluating how much we really need and what matters most to us. Want to trim it down even more?

You can remove the hip belt and hydration sleeve. $120; sixmoondesigns.com

Eureka SPRK Camp Grill

Trend: Car Camping Car camping and van life exploration have become the easiest ways to escape the bounds of your home during COVID-19 without having to risk crowds. This easy-to-pack grill top runs on an 8-ounce butane canister and gives you all the backyard-deck comfort of gourmet grilling no matter where you pull up to camp. $130; eurekacamping. johnsonoutdoors.com

Goldwin x Spiber The Sweater

Trend: New Fabrics/ Sustainability Upscale Japanese snowsports apparel brand Goldwin collaborated with biomaterial producer Spiber to craft the most interesting sustainable fabric to hit the market during the pandemic.

Eschewing animal products and synthetic fabrics spun from plastics, the threads in this surprisingly cozy sweater come from—wait… take a sip of your favorite IPA before you read further—a brewed protein fabric created by a plant-based microfermentaion process.

The Sweater sold out when it was offered via lottery in November, but look for more apparel using the same process coming out in the future. $800; usshop. goldwin-sports.com

Blue Forest Farms #6 Dream with CBN

Trend: Cannabinoids Cannabinoids are the active compounds in cannabis that give the plant its kick when smoked or ingested.

We know you know what THC is (okay, kids, it’s the psychoactive substance) and CBD, a cannabinoid that aids in easing anxiety and soothing inflammation (and which is legal in 48 states when derived from hemp and containing 0.3% or less THC) is in everything from lip balm to chocolate these days.

CBN is the up and coming legal cannabinoid and Blue Forest mixed it with CBD in this oil that can help you get rest the night before a big outdoor activity or a stressful day sheltered at home. $65; bffhemp.com

Ooni Frya

Trend: Backyard Camping Cooking homemade pizza is high on the list of skills we have developed during quarantine but the home oven just doesn’t give crust that authentic cripsness. Not only will this simple portable oven fire up to 925 degrees and produce the perfect pie in about a minute in your backyard, you can also take it to camp. $249; ooni.com

Adidas Five Ten Kirigami

Trend: Accessibility Climbing is a sport that everyone should be able to enjoy at the gym or out on the crags, but the discomfort and price of shoes can be a barrier to entry—so Five Ten crafted the simple and user-friendly Kirigami for kids and adults.

The grown-up version features the brand’s famed Stealth C4 rubber for grip and the

THE NOROTH FACE DRYZZLE FUTURELIGHT

SALEWA DROPLINE MID

SAGE FOUNDATION OUTFIT

VALLON X WAYNE WONG

SALOMON INDEX.01

kids’ models sports an Adfit insole, which can be removed to accommodate those fast-growing feet. $50-$90; adidasoutdoor.com/fiveten

Sage Foundation Outfit

Trend: Social Distancing/ Simplicity Fly fishing is the ultimate social-distancing sport—you want to keep other anglers away from your hotspot.

Newcomers to the sport and vets will both appreciate this package that will get you out on the water pronto. The Foundation rod is a smooth caster that can handle a wide variety of flies and techniques, from tossing streamers to gently presented small dries.

The Spectrum C reel offers a smooth retrieve. And the Rio Gold fly line matches up perfectly with the set. $575; sageflyfish.com

Vallon X Wayne Wong

Trend: Retro Style The iconic ripper Wayne Wong made skiing fun back in the 1980s heyday, and he always did it wearing his iconic white Aviators. We could also use a jolt of fun right now and Vallon teamed up with Wong for these always fashionable shades that will be available in the fall (pick up Vallon’s standard Aviators in the meantime). $107; vallon.store

The North Face Dryzzle Futurelight

Trend: New Fabrics The North Face has put its full weight behind the launch of its Furturelight fabric, which features a waterproof and breathable membrane that the brand claims outperforms Gore-Tex. It certainly does the trick in this women-specific shell that keeps the worst mountain

BLUE RIDGE TRAILWORKS THE BLUE RIDGE CHAIR

GOSUN FLATWARE TRAVEL SET

weather at bay. $229; thenorthface.com

Salomon Index.01

Trend: Sustainability True sustainability requires a shoe to not just be built from recycled and easy-on-the environment materials, but also circular, creating no waste when you are done with that faithful kick. Available this spring, Salomon’s hottest new road running shoe can be torn apart and completely recycled after it has pounded out its final miles. salomon.com

Blue Ridge Trail Works The Blue Ridge Chair

Trend: Camp Comfort Clever and packable so that you can haul it to a serene spot on the side of a creek but classy enough to prop up on your home deck, this sturdy chair redefines camp style. Better yet, it’s a solid

seat with plenty of back support unlike the standard camp chair that feels like an undersized hammock. $174; blueridgechair.com

Salewa Dropline Mid

Trend: Close-to-Home Adventure HIking close to home or deep in the hills is one activity that the pandemic has not slowed down. Our pick for our favorite trail shoes for those adventures, the Dropline Mid, serves up plenty of ankle support to scramble up loose, rocky stuff thanks to thermoformed high-rebound material that keeps your foot in line without being overly stiff. But don’t think it’s just for the tough terrain— light and springy, the shoe doesn’t cramp your style on more casual outings. $180; salewa.com

GoSun Flatware Travel Cutlery Set

Trend: Simplicity and Sustainability Single-use plastic is an ongoing waste. In this time of rethinking how we approach the world, this sturdy, easyto-carry, 1.4-ounce cutlery set eliminates the need for plastic, whether you are backpacking, picnicking with someone special, or just ordering to-go from your favorite restaurant. $24; gosun.co

Bolle Nevada NEO Goggle and RYFT MIPS Helmet Trend: Augmented Reality Bolle’s Nevada Neo is one of the best goggles on the hill, utilizing a magnetic system that makes it easy to swap in lenses like the photochromic Phantom that adapts to changing light conditions.

But the real wow factor here is that you don’t have to be

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THIS WINTER STEP OUT IN STYLE & COMFORT Mishmi Takin Qaras + Misti Weatherproof Softshell Jackets - Men & Women Turn heads with the bold colors of Mishmi Takin softshell jackets. The waterproof, windproof Qaras jacket (pictured in mustard yellow) has a luxurious fur-like lining to keep you super warm. The wind resistant Misti jacket (pictured in green) keeps chilly winds at bay while you finish the morning run. Excellent quality that is seldom seen in today’s marketplace.

WWW.MISHMITAKIN.COM

Summit General is a collection of products, apparel, gift, and experiences that were carefully curated for our readers. We have included everything from our favorite whiskeys to beautiful prints to fine leather goods. Most of the products are made by artists and craftspeople in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Check our website, subscribe to our newsletter, and follow us on social media for the latest updates on Summit General Shop now at summitgeneral.store 20

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

BOLLE NEVADA NEO GOGGLE

BLOCAID

BOLLE RYFT MIPS HELMET

LIV INTRIGUE ADVANCED PRO 29 1 MALOJA

ROCKY MOUNTS SPLITRAIL LS 2"

EDDIE BAUER MICROTHERM FREEUSE STRETCH HOODED JACKET DOGFISH HEAD HAZY-O!

MSR GUARDIAN GRAVITY PURIFIER

skiing to get a feel for how it performs on Instagram.

Bolle’s new augmented reality program lets you use your smartphone camera and the social media app to see what you look like in the goggles and its RYFT MIPS helmet and check out the different lens effects from the comfort of home. $280 goggles, $300 helmet; bolle.com

BlocAid

Trend: Pandemic Protection Staying safe during the pandemic requires gloves to help avoid direct contact with infected surfaces—which is tough to do at the store, at the gas station, or even when you are playing outside. A special EcoZinc treatment repels microbes on these simple, reusable, washable gloves that you can keep in your glove compartment. $20; blocaidglove.com

Maloja

Trend: Pandemic Protection Yes, the mask has become both required protective gear and a fashion statement for those of us recreating responsibly in the outdoors, and Swiss brand Maloha impressed us with these breathable, good-looking, three-layer masks that feature Polygiene‘s ViralOff finish that can kill most viruses on contact. The masks are washable (but the treatment can begin to wear off after 20 washes). $12-$15; malojaclothing.com

Dog fish Head Hazy-O!

Trend: Craft Beer Enjoying a good IPA is one thing the the pandemic has not taken from us (in fact, some of us may be tippling too many). Famed Delawarebased craft brewery Dogfish Head knocked our socks off

with its big, silky new 7.1% ABV hazy IPA. Here’s the secret: It’s brewed with malted oats, rolled oats, naked oats, and— wait for it—oat milk. $18 four pack; dogfish.com

Liv Intrigue Advanced Pro 29 1

Trend: Women Specific Women-specific bike brand Liv launched this nimble machine in the midst of the pandemic and it proved a winner with our female testers who could not wait to put it to use on local singletrack.

With big, 29-inch tubeless tires, the bike offers geometry and suspension dialed in to the way a woman fits on and actually rides a mountain bike.

It’s just as competent on the ups as the downs, where the 140mm fork and 125mm rear shock suck up all the nasty stuff. $5,500; liv-cycling.com

MSR Guardian Gravity Purifier

Trend: Clean Water Available in the spring, MSR’s newest gravity filter ups the performance of the simple system. It not only meets the military’s NSF protocol P248 testing standard, it also delivers water at a rate of 1 liter in two minutes, far faster than the usual slow drip of a hanging filter, without requiring the arduous task of pumping. It’s perfect for backpacking—and essential if your water at home is ever compromised. $250; msrgear.com

Eddie Bauer Microtherm Freefuse Stretch Hooded Jacket

Trend: New Fabrics Incredibly easy to pack down into its own pocket, light, and surprisingly cozy for its weight, this down jacket will be your

go-to piece to be prepared for variable conditions on any adventure. The discontinuous channel construction means the 800-fill down won’t bunch up and there’s just enough stretch to move fast on peak bagging missions or snowshoeing trips. $279; eddiebauer.com

Rocky Mounts Splitrail LS 2” Trend: Bike Boom So you bought multiple bikes during the pandemic. Now, you need a secure, reliable way to transport them. This sharplooking hitch rack folds out when you need it, eliminating the need for awkward roof rack systems, and keeps those bikes safe behind your vehicle without messing with your gas mileage.

The basic rack holds two but an add on ($200) can get the whole family out to the trails. $500; rockymounts.com

DECEMBER 2020 - JANUARY 2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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At Blue Ridge School, we are experts in how boys learn best.

The result is a college prep program that guides boys to reach their full potential in the classroom and beyond. Our 750-acre campus at the base of the Blue Ridge Mountains is home to a renowned Outdoor Program that fosters a respect for nature and leadership skills that last a lifetime.

OUTDOOR

ELECTIVES

ALL BOYS. ALL BOARDING. ALL COLLEGE BOUND. BLUERIDGESCHOOL.COM

WELCOME TO THE GREAT OUTSIDE The Original Out-of-the-Box Hiker AVAILABLE AT YOUR LOCAL INDEPENDENT RETAILER

22

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

THE GOODS

COLD-WEATHER GEAR

winter Warmers

FLYLOW GEAR BAXTER JACKET

IT’S TIME TO GET OUT AND PLAY IN THE SNOW, SO WE PRESENT THESE TOOLS TO HELP YOU ENJOY YOUR TIME IN THE COLD. B Y D O U G S C H N I T Z S PA H N

ROSSIGNOL EVO XC 55-R SKIN NORDIC SKI AND X2 TOURING BOOT

MSR EVO ASCENT SNOWSHOE KIT

BOGS CLASSIC CASUAL

FJÄLLRÄVEN KEB TOURING TROUSERS

WNDR ALPINE VITAL 100

KAHTOOLA EXOSPIKES

Kahtoola EXOspikes

Winter should not slow down your time on the trail—but ice and packed-down snow make it tough to travel when the chilly season takes over.

Easy to slip on over trail runners or hiking boots, these spikes provide all the traction you need without cramping your style. The wear-resistant tungsten carbide spikes grip into ice and other slippery surfaces and they stay secure at any speed. $60; kahtoola.com

Flylow Gear Baxter Jacket

A warm puffy is your best friend when the mercury drops. Stuffed with cozy 800fill goose down, this jacket makes winter more enjoyable.

Plus, a DWR treatment on the outside ensures it will wick

away the precipitation of a sudden winter squall. $325; flylowgear.com

WNDR Alpine Vital 100

This big gun of a ski may be too much toy for the Southeast. At 126-100-118mm with a 24-meter turning radius, it’s really the ride you will want for those dream trips out west. But the main story you need to know here concerns sustainability. WNDR creates the plastics in the core of the ski from triglycerides derived from microalgae and later combined with wood. That process not only cuts down on petroleum products, it also makes for a ski that’s surprisingly stiff for its weight. $699; wndr-alpine.com

Bogs Classic Causal

The perfect winter boot for everything from gently paced snowshoe jaunts to kicking it around town on a cold day, this seemingly casual kick means business. The leather boot is 100-percent waterproof and comfort rated down to 5°F. And you can feel good about wearing them: They’re built with recycled rubber, laces, jersey, and heel webbing, and the Bloom footbed is made with an algae-based EVA. $130; bogs footwear.com

Rossignol EVO XC 55-R Skin Nordic Ski and X2 Touring Boot

Want to go deeper into the woods in the dead of winter? This Nordic package is ideal for beginners and

intermediates more interested in covering some ground than testing their limits. Stable and easy to swing around on the trail, the skis feature a fishscale pattern that requires no waxing for grip on the snow. The workman-like boots will drive those skis comfortably. Both are unisex and work for a wide range of body types. $300 ski, $120 boot; rossignol.com

MSR Evo Ascent Snowshoe Kit

Ready to try snowshoeing this winter but worried about getting all the gear together?

This handy kit gives you all you need at a competitive price. MSR’s Evo Ascent snowshoes can handle a wide range of terrain and snow. The three-piece poles break down

and assemble in a hurry and aid with balance and rhythm out on the trail. And to keep it all together, the pack hauls your layers and food into the wild and stores the kit when you are back home. $300; msrgear.com

Fjällräven Keb Touring Trousers

These stretchy Swedish touring trousers can take a beating while hiking on trails and work perfectly as ski pants, too, with hems that adjust to accommodate ski boots and zipper venting for when you work up some steam. Plus, they’re made from enviro-friendly recycled polyester and organic cotton.

They are available in both men’s and women’s sizes. $250; fjallraven.com

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Let’s Have Fun Together!

www.skisugar.com

Sugar Mountain, NC

SAVE THE DATE! Mark your calendar for these special events happening in the Blue Ridge this winter!

ALL SEASON Every Tuesday through May 1, 2021 $10.00 Tuesdays Liberty Snowflex Come out to Snowflex on Tuesdays for 2-hour combo passes for just $10.00 (regular value of $25.00).

This pass includes tubing, sledding, access to the Snowflex slopes, ski and snowboard rental equipment, and our Olympic Trampoline for two hours. liberty.edu/campusrec/snowflex/ activities/

Every Monday from January 4 –March 1 Monday Night Madness Massanutten Ski and ride at Massanutten for a discounted rate every Monday from January 4 to March 1! A portion of the night’s proceeds will go to local charities. Events subject to change.

Be sure to check out the website for all the latest season specials and more info on the 2020/21 Winter Season. massresort.com/play/snowsports/hours-rates

DECEMBER December TBD A New Timberline Timberline Opening for winter 2020/21 with 2 NEW lifts, a remodeled lodge, 2 new terrain parks, a new beginner area, and increasing snowmaking!

It’s a new resort with some of the best skiing and snowboarding terrain in West Virginia. timberlinemountain.com

December 1, 2020 December 18, 2020 Mission: Four’dable Wintergreen

IT’S BACK - Mission: Four’dable quad packs for just $249

through December 18th! That’s 4 unrestricted lift tickets for the 20.21 winter season. Buy your quad packs online. wintergreenresort.com

December 17, 2020 March 4, 2021 College Nights on the Slopes Ober Gatlinburg On December 17th, January 14th, February 11th and March 4th, from 6:00pm - 10:00pm, students bring 10 canned food items or a $10 donation to Sevier County Food Ministries and get a free lift pass!

You must show a valid Student ID upon donating. obergatlinburg.com/events

December 25, 2020 Christmas Dinner TO GO Bryce Ski Resort For those who would rather spend the Holiday on the slopes, Bryce makes your day easier by offering a take-away meal for you and your family. Ski all day and forget the cooking. bryceresort.com

December 26, 2020 -January 4, 2021 & January 8, 2021 - March 6, 2021 Last Chair Special Massanutten, VA Calling all skiers and snowboarders! Enjoy a $20 SlopeUse ticket and $20 Rental valid for the last two hours the slopes are open from 3-5PM Tuesday through Thursday and 7-9PM on days with night skiing. Night skiing will be available nightly December 26 through January 4 and Friday through Monday, January 8 through March 6. Events subject to change. Tickets must be purchased in advance. Events subject to change. Visit ttheir website and Facebook page for the most up-todate information. massresort.com/play/snowsports/hours-rates

JANUARY

FEBRUARY

January 3, 2021 Winter Trails Day – Winter Feels Good Sugar Mountain

February 2021 TBD Winter Bike Jam Bryce Ski Resort

Winter Trails Day offers children and adults new to snow sports the chance to try snowshoeing for FREE. Discover the fun and fitness of snow sports. Guided tours are available on the hour from 9:00 a.m. through 4:00 p.m.

The program includes a forty-fiveminute tour and snowshoe rental.

Adult tours are for those who are 12 years or older. Children’s tours are for those ages 8-11.

Sign up at least fifteen minutes prior to your tour time at the ski/ snowboard school. skisugar.com

January 15-18, 2021 Martin Luther King, Jr. Weekend The Homestead Join us to celebrate a very special holiday at The Omni Homestead Resort. Enjoy skiing, snowboarding and ice skating. Try your luck at Bingo in the evenings or create a fun winter craft. omnihotels.com/hotels/ homestead-virginia/things-to-do/ upcoming-events

January 23, 2021 Ober Rocks Ober Gatlinburg Visit Ober Gatlinburg for the OBER ROCKS throwback event presented by 103.5 WIMZ! January 23rd, Ober Gatlinburg will host a special Ober Rocks Ski Session from 8pm-Midnight! Band TBA and will play from 9:00pm -12:30am in the Loft Lounge, 103.5 will be the Slopeside DJ. If you’re up for it, the OGFT High Ollie Contest…. ON THE SLOPES! obergatlinburg.com/oberrocks

For those who can’t get enough of Bryce Bike Park, the ski slopes open for a bike race once a year. Test your bike handling skills on snow with Bryce’s “Mini-Avalanche” and Slalom races. bryceresort.com

February 1, 2021 Cupp Run Challenge Snowshoe It’s been 46 years since Jean Claude-Killy put down the fastest time at the first-ever Cupp Run Challenge, a giant slalom race down the steeps of the legendary Western Territory. Head on up to Almost Heaven and take part in one of Snowshoe’s oldest traditions. snowshoemtn.com

February 12-15, 2021 Presidents Weekend The Homestead Plan a winter getaway to the mountains with your loved ones to celebrate our Presidents, including the 23 that have visited The Omni Homestead Resort. Spend your days on the slopes, or stay inside for special musical performances and other fun activities. omnihotels.com/hotels/ homestead-virginia/things-to-do/ upcoming-events

February 20-21, 2021 Berming Man Banked Slalom presented by Oakley Snowshoe There’s nothing like a good banked slalom race, and Berming Man has quickly become one of the best in the East. The course features steep, high speed berms leading down to a nasty mogul field before the

finish. At the end of the day, the “Fastest Snowboarder in WV” will be crowned. snowshoemtn.com

MARCH March 2021 TBD Winterfest Bryce Ski Resort Join Bryce for an end of season celebration like no other including pond skimming, a race down the headwall of Bootlegger, and many other family friendly activities. bryceresort.com

March 5–7, 2021 Snow Moon Fest Massanutten, VA Massanutten’s season-end celebration features an arctic plunge, 4K race/walk, live music, tap takeovers and samples, fireworks, torchlight parade, and more! Enjoy a weekend full of skiing, snowboarding, and plenty of off-slope activities for the whole family to enjoy! Stay tuned for more details. Events subject to change.

Visit the website and Facebook page for the most up-to-date information. massresort.com/snowmoonfest

March 7, 2021 Richard T. Trundy Memorial Sugar Cup Competition Sugar Mountain A giant slalom competition for participants with an intermediate or above ability level. One hundred percent of the entry fees go to the American Cancer Society in memory of Sugar Mountain’s former director of operations, Richard T. Trundy. skisugar.com

Become a Blue Ridge Outdoors TrailHead for as low as $1 a month

A Winter Playground awaits...

Thank You to Our Latest TrailHeads!

Gregory P. - Nashville, TN Peter K. - Alexandria, VA James R. - Glen Allen, VA Miriam M. - Maidens, VA Susan S. - Harrison, OH Lori S. - Charlottesville, VA | Ken G. - Rocky Mount, VA Brian C. - Charlottesville, VA | Zach K. - West Columbia, SC Caley S. - Richmond, VA | Katy L. - Thompsons Station, TN Susan T. - Banner Elk, NC | Wendi W. - Greenville, SC Erin K. - Warrenton, VA | Michael C. - Front Royal, VA Rod S. - Mount Jackson, VA | Gwendy S.K. - Raleigh, NC Deanna B. - Black Mountain, NC | Tim H. - Knoxville, TN Joseph M. - Richmond, VA | Alicia W. - Midlothian, VA Carey L. - Midlothian, VA | Bradlee L. - Manassas, VA

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VirginiasMtnPlayground.com 26

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

SEARCHING FOR REMNANTS OF THE PAST R E LIC HUN TER EVA N WO O DA R D RECOV ERS W H AT ’ S LO ST A ND F O RGOT TEN

BY ELLEN KANZINGER

From unmarked railroad spurs and children’s toys to more common items like oyster shells, glass bottles, and shoes, Evan Woodard never knows what he’s going to find when he goes relic hunting.

A devoted history enthusiast, Woodard routinely spends hours outside of his job in cybersecurity diving into old records, and when the pandemic hit in March, he found himself with a lot more time to get out and survey areas around Baltimore, Md. “Maps and research has always been something that I’ve loved,” he said. “So when I got into relic hunting, it came naturally. You need to really figure out what it is on your own.”

Using whatever resources he can find, from Sanborn maps and old atlases to records from the Library of Congress and archives from The Baltimore Sun, Woodard traces the location of old homesteads and warehouses to find abandoned dumps to sift through. “You are going into a place and trying to save history as fast as you can before it’s lost or destroyed,” Woodard said. A lot of these places have sat untouched and unused for decades, concealing evidence of what life was like 50, 100, or even 200 years ago.

Woodard is drawn to the entire process— studying maps for hours on end, lining up historical records with current locations, following clues to forgotten places, and piecing together stories to find out where an object came from. Since he started relic hunting, Woodard has formed a relationship with the Baltimore Museum of Industry, donating found items to fill in their collection. “It’s a really cool way to give back to what was my favorite museum as a kid, and is still my favorite museum as an adult,” he said.

R E L I C H U N T I N G I S A WAY F O R E VA N W O O D A R D T O C O M B I N E HIS LOVE FOR HISTORY AND RESEARCH WITH GETTING OUTSIDE. PHOTO BY ZACH (@ZACHSADVENTURES)

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you type in an item to Google about a glass bottle with XYZ stamped on it, you’re going to get a lot of hits like that. So that doesn’t really help you research it or date it. When it comes to dating, you have to look at the seams on the bottle, if there are air bubbles in the bottle, how heavy it is, what kind of top it is. There are little indications of what type of molding was used to make the bottle.

W O O D A R D U S E S A VA R I E T Y O F C L U E S , FROM EMBOSSED LABELS TO THE SHAPE OF THE BOTTLE OPENING, TO TRY TO NARROW DOWN WHEN AND W H E R E A N O B J E C T WA S M A D E . P H O T O

BY WOODARD

Now when he’s out on a trail or even walking through town, Woodard is thinking about all of the forgotten history that might be found in that space. “There’s a lot that people just walk by every day,” he said. “When you think about what’s been lost or forgotten about, it can be something that people take for granted because they know it’s there but they don’t really know the history of it or what it’s doing there.

It helps connect people to past generations.”

How do you use historical and modern maps to find old homesteads and dumps?

Very rarely are dumps marked on maps. If you know roughly where the house or the property is and have a topographical map next to it, you know that they’ll usually throw trash or debris into a ravine. So you look for low lying areas that are going to be away from the property but not too far. They’re mostly throwing it within 100 yards of the property.

Avenza loads historical USGS maps from the 1800s into your phone and lets you use them like a GPS map. So you can go out into the woods, link to that map, and it’ll show you roughly where you are within a few hundred meters. It gives you a really good estimation of where you should be walking and what direction you should be heading to. Those types of technologies, mixing old with new, are really cool. It helps you understand where to go and what to look for.

This morning, I was looking at one and was trying to find this B&O Railroad dump. I did find it but it took a while because all of the road names around it had changed so much since then, along with the water features. There was no known exact point of reference. It’s a lot of trial and error until you find some small clue and then boom, you’ve got it. You feel like you’re a part of the Scooby Doo Detective Agency. To finally find what you’re looking for is an amazing feeling.

When you get to a site, what clues are you looking for to find the dump?

Look for trails. Even if it’s been 100 or 150 years since someone’s walked back there, there’s still 28

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

going to be an actual trail from the humans that walked that path all the time to do the dumping. It was just such a common, daily occurrence so it’s worn into the ground.

Once you find an item, how do you go about trying to date it and learn its story?

Things that don’t have an embossing or any kind of labeling are really hard to track down or understand what it is. If it has an embossed label or stenciling, a business name, then I spend time tracing back into history and doing the research.

That’s my biggest draw to this. I love history. I love research. I love figuring out and making a personal connection to each item. It’s not so much just who the manufacturer was or where they were based. For example, one of the items I found was a medicine bottle. I actually did a deep dive into [the pharmacist’s] story and found out that he sold heroin here in the city to younger kids and got put in jail. It was a huge crime at the turn of the century in the 1900s. That was a crazy thing to find out about versus just saying who the pharmacist was.

Google is not so much of a help anymore because of Etsy and eBay. The first 20 pages when

In what ways have you seen nature reclaim space Permission to after a site has been Relic Hunt abandoned?

If a site is on private It’s pretty crazy to see how property, Woodard fast something like a river makes sure to get or stream can change in a permission from the hundred years. Recently owner before heading I was at a site and what out. In most cases, should have been a nice S he says people are curve was completely gone. really interested to It’s just wild to see how see what he will Mother Nature is out there find. If he wants doing her own thing. to explore public Some of the glass items property, he checks that I’ve come across, with park employees especially the enclosed ones on regulations. Most that are complete, easily parks do not allow turn into their own terrariums digging below the without me having to go to surface in order to a florist. They’re beautiful prevent damaging pieces of art that I could put tree roots. on my shelf if I wanted to.

It‘s so wonderful to see that even though this glass takes millions of years to break down, nature is still working its way around it.

Why did you decide to start documenting your process on Instagram (@salvagearc)?

I didn’t expect anything of it. I just thought I could find some other history nerds to chat and connect with. Social media has really allowed me the opportunity to take something that I really love, like history, and to share it with others.

I’d love for people to get more involved with this. There’s stuff everywhere. The research is a lot, but if you put the time in, it’s going to be super rewarding. You pull your first bottle—that’s all it takes is that one item.

Do you have a favorite relic that you’ve found?

I’m really into collecting flasks and liquor/alcohol bottles because of the designs they have on them.

They all have a personal story. There is a glass I have from Baltimore Glassworks. The factory burned down, but when it reopened, they made this commemorative glass in the 1850s that had a phoenix rising from the ashes. It just looks beautiful, the coloring in it and a very intricate design.

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E X P LOR E T UN N E L S, FR OZEN WAT E RFA L L S , A N D M O R E IN SC OTT C OU N T Y, VA .

Winter

Adventures

Blue Ridge

J u s t b e c a u se t h e s u n i s s e t t i n g e ar l i e r d o e s n’ t m ea n i t ’s t i m e t o h i b e r nat e. Lay e r up a n d h e a d o u t o n a w i n t e r ad v e n t u r e i n o ne o f t h e s e B l u e Ridg e d e st i n a t i o n s . W h e t h e r i t ’s h i k i n g th r o u g h t h e c r i s p m o u n t ai n ai r o r c r o s s c o un t ry s k i i n g o v er a b l a n ke t o f s n o w, t h e r e’s s o me t h i n g f o r ev er y on e. Pl e a se c h e c k w i t h d e s t i n at i o n s p r i o r to t r a v el t o d e t e r mi n e h o w b e s t t o h av e a h e a l th y a n d s a f e ex pe r i e nc e

PHOTO COURTESY GETTY IMAGES

in the

Thousands of visitors have traveled to southwest Virginia and the rural region of Scott County in search of the Devil’s Bathtub. This winter, discover for yourself all that Scott County has to offer beyond the bathtub.

It’s home to the Clinch River, one of the most biodiverse rivers in the world, second only to the Amazon. The Clinch is the largest depository of rare and endangered freshwater mussels, as well as an excellent spot to get in some cold weather fishing for largemouth, smallmouth, spotted, and rock bass. It’s home to the Carter Family Fold, the true birthplace of country music. It was here that A.P., Sara, and Maybelle Carter put together the tunes that would start the evolution of country music. Today, the Carter Family Fold pays homage to the Carter Fold every Saturday night with a concert of acoustic, old-time music.

It was through this rugged terrain that Daniel Boone and his 30 axemen forged the Daniel Boone Wilderness Road that opened the region to thousands of migrants who would pass this way on their western excursion. It’s home to Creation Kingdom Zoo, one of the few breeding zoos for endangered species in the country. It’s home to one of the tallest and longest tunnels in the world, Natural Tunnel, which is also a state park complete with numerous amenities for the outdoor enthusiast.

In addition to these wonderful attractions, Scott County offers pristine natural surroundings with several hikes that make for a great winter escape. Little Stony Falls, built by the U.S. Forest Service, follows Stony Creek and crosses multiple footbridges with plenty of scenic variety to keep any hiker entertained, including three waterfalls easily accessible along the trail. This is part of the Chief Benge Scout Trail that runs 19 miles from High Knob to Hanging Rock Recreation Area.

Kane Gap takes hikers along portions of the famed Daniel Boone Wilderness Trail and offers a glimpse into the hardscrabble trail pioneers accessed when making their journey westward.

Start your adventure off right with a hearty breakfast at Campus Drive-In, and make sure to visit additional iconic restaurants like the Hob Nob, Teddy’s, and Virginia’s best bakery, the Family Bakery. For a good night of rest, Appalachian Mountain Cabins provide a great winter escape with Jacuzzi tubs and fireplaces. All cabins at Natural Tunnel State Park also offer great winter views and cozy fireplaces.

ExploreScottCountyVA.org

The New River at New River Trail State Park Above: Winter scene at Pocahontas State Park Photo courtesy of Virginia State Parks

FI N D YOUR ADVENTU R E IN A V IRGINIA STATE PAR K Get outside this winter and experience the wonder of a Virginia State Park. Whether you are looking for a mild coastal adventure or snowy mountain climb, there are 39 parks that will undoubtedly fit your desired adventure. Pack the car, layer up, and head out to a new destination this season.

With over 90 miles of trails, visit Pocahontas State Park for a variety of outdoor activities to get you moving this winter. Located 20 miles southwest of Richmond, this park is easily accessible from a number of East Coast cities. Hike through the forest, past the lakes and streams, and over rolling hills as you take in the natural beauty. Mountain bikers of all skill levels will enjoy riding more than 25 miles of mountain bike only trails featuring a variety of terrain, tight twists, and flowy singletrack. When you are done for the day, unpack your warm sleeping bag and pitch a tent at one of over 100 camping sites or treat yourself to a stay in one of the camping cabins featuring a porch and two sets of bunk beds.

An hour westward, Bear Creek Lake State Park offers a quiet getaway to Cumberland State Forest in Central Virginia. With limited cell service, it is the perfect place to disconnect and soak up the scenery. Go for a stroll around the lake or cast a line for largemouth bass, crappie, and bream from the universally accessible fishing pier. Trails within the park connect to an additional 16,000 acres of surrounding state forest. Outdoor enthusiasts of all speeds will enjoy the magic of winter on the 14-mile Cumberland Multi-Use Trail open to hikers, bikers, and equestrian riders. Cozy up at

one of the cabins, campsites, or lodge to extend your stay in the area.

The waters and mountains of southwest Virginia offer a stunning backdrop at Fairy Stone State Park. Just minutes from Philpott Reservoir and the Blue Ridge Parkway, you will be surrounded by endless outdoor adventures. Hike miles of trails for overlooks and a waterfall, plus blooming wildflowers in the spring. Get in some winter fishing on Fairy Stone Lake or the reservoir as you cast your line for panfish, largemouth bass, walleye, and more. During your visit, keep an eye out for the legendary fairy stones found in the area. Relax and warm up by the fireplace in your cabin after a day exploring the park, featuring a full kitchen, heat, and shower.

Nearby New River Trail State Park is the perfect place for a multi-day trip by foot, bike, or horseback. You will cross countless bridges, trestles, and two tunnels as you travel the 57 miles of old railroad bed from Galax to Pulaski. Three primitive campgrounds located just off the trail provide a place to rest your head before you continue on the next day. Additionally, the trail parallels the New River for 39 miles, with three boat ramps to access some cold freshwater fishing for trout, perch, crappie, and more. Watch the forecast for snow as the trail makes for some excellent cross country skiing through the Blue Ridge Highlands under the right conditions.

From the Atlantic Ocean and Chesapeake Bay to the peaks and valleys of the Blue Ridge, reconnect with family and friends as you spend some time outside reveling in the winter season. Discover what makes Virginia State Parks so special, no matter the season.

VirginiaStateParks.gov

D I SC OVER TRAI LS , MU S I C, AN D TOP SP EE D THR I LLS I N BRI STOL, VA ./ TENN. Straddling Virginia and Tennessee, Bristol provides the perfect winter getaway for adventurers of all kinds. Whether you’re looking for miles of scenic trails and trout waters, thrilling racing, toe-tapping music, or mouthwatering cuisine, the Twin Cities have it all for a safe and socially distant trip.

Start your visit with a walk, run, or bike ride on the Mendota Trail. With 6.2 miles currently open for recreation, this gravel and natural surface trail is fun for the whole family. You can even break out your cross country skis if the area gets enough snow. When completed, the rail trail will run 12.5 miles from Bristol to Mendota, Va., connecting the two towns and taking visitors past rolling hills and scenic waterways.

Anglers should make their way to South Holston Lake, an excellent spot for catching smallmouth bass. With much of the shoreline bordered by Cherokee National Forest, the lake provides a scenic spot for boaters and hikers alike. You could spend days fly fishing the South Holston River, a world class trout fishery, for native brook, brown, and rainbow trout.

A number of local parks offer a variety of ways to get outside in the winter. Sugar Hollow Park features an 18-hole disc golf course, miles of trail, and 75 camping sites.

Mountain bikers of all skill levels will enjoy riding the network of singletrack trails through the park. Just across the state border, visit Steele Creek Park for 24 miles of trail through 2,000 acres of forested knobs and along the shore of a 54-acre lake. Make sure to stop in the nature center to learn about the natural history of the Southern Appalachians through exhibits and an interpretive arboretum. Follow the Lakeside Trail to Rooster Front for scenic picnic areas along Beaver Creek.

Head over to Mountain Sports Ltd. for all of your outdoor needs while you are in town. From an in-shop bike mechanic and camping gear to fly tying classes and a wealth of local knowledge, these outdoor enthusiasts carry a wide range of brands and products to keep you safe and warm on any outing this winter.

Get out of the cold and explore the rest of what Bristol has to offer. Head underground into the Bristol Caverns, where the ancient Underground River carved out vaulted chambers over millions of years. Each room highlights stunning displays of natural stone formations like arches, columns, cascades, and draperies. Temperatures inside remain constant throughout the year, making it the perfect adventure no matter the weather.

A visit to the area wouldn’t be complete without a stop at The Birthplace of Country Music Museum, celebrating the iconic 1927 Bristol Sessions recordings and their lasting impact on country music today. The museum achieved Healthy Business Certification from the Tennessee Chamber of Commerce & Industry for its disease prevention plan to keep visitors safe while visiting. Plan a return visit in September for the 20th annual Bristol Rhythm & Roots Reunion, featuring more than 100 of Appalachia’s best artists over the course of three days.

The whole family will love visiting Bristol Motor Speedway. This winter is the perfect time to take in the Pinnacle Speedway in Lights show running from November

13 to January 2, a fun socially distanced activity. Explore more than 250 displays illuminated with over 2 million lights around the Speedway. The route will take you for a spin around the iconic half-mile banks of the speedway and down the legendary Thunder Valley dragstrip. Make sure to stop by the Christmas Village for local vendors and a light show set to music or reserve tickets for some time on the Tri-Cities Airport Ice Rink.

Stay Awhile

When it comes to kicking back and refueling, Bristol offers a range of dining options to keep you happy and energized. Blackbird Bakery has something for every meal, from doughnuts and scones for breakfast to tarts and cupcakes for dessert. Get your day started with hot coffee, a smoothie, and homemade granola from Bloom Cafe & Listening Room. A few doors over, Bristol Bagel & Bakery serves up delicious breakfast sandwiches, baked goodies, and daily soups.

Left: Walk or ride the new section of the Mendota Trail, a 12.5-mile rail trail project that starts in Bristol.

Enjoy a variety of spirits at Lost State Distilling. Right: Dive deep into the history and evolution of country music at The Birthplace of Country Music Museum. Stay in the luxurious Sessions Hotel, one of the top destination for travelers and music lovers. And don't forget to see the holiday light show at the Bristol Motor Speedway. Photos courtesy of Discover Bristol.

For that classic diner feel, complete with mouthwatering burgers, chili cheese fries, and milkshakes, Burger Bar has been a local staple since 1942. Bristol Gardens & Grill combines the flavors of their smoked meats with fresh produce and herbs, including smoked chicken salad and barbecue. Swing by Eatz on Moore Street for those comfort foods you’ve been craving like cornbread, fried chicken, and collard greens.

Located in a restored 1850 Victorian home, J Frank specializes in top notch seafood, steaks, and craft cocktails with a unique ambiance. Or sit down for a family style meal at Taste, Wood-Fired Kitchen, an open-air establishment that shows off the beauty of Nicewonder Farm & Vineyard and the surrounding area. Stop by The Southern Churn for a post dinner sweet treat, including homemade ice cream and kettle cooked fudge.

Finish off your day at one of the craft breweries or Lost State Distilling, the hottest new distillery in the area. Elderbrew has found their niche, producing small batches of hand-crafted ales and lagers. For the casual beer drinker interested in a little bit of everything, State Street Brewing Co. is a great post-adventure hangout for

everyone. Grab a seat in Bristol’s historical bus station for one of Bristol Station Brews & Taproom’s refreshing drinks or try The Cascade Draft House for a rotating list of over 40 brews, ciders, sours, and seltzers that are sure to hit the spot. Voted the 2020 Best New Craft Distillery by USA Today, the spirits drinker will find a bourbon, gin, rum, vodka, or Tennessee whiskey to enjoy from Lost State Distilling.

Settle in for the night at one of the area’s award-winning hotels. The Bristol Hotel, named a Top Ten City Hotel by Travel + Leisure and Top Pet Friendly Hotel by USA Today, features cozy rooms and a rooftop bar with views of the mountains. Since opening in the summer of 2020, The Sessions Hotel has quickly become a top destination for the country music lover with onsite music venues and a day spa. Both hotels are located in the heart of downtown with easy access to dining options and cultural amenities.

Discover all of this, and more, when you visit Bristol on the Tennessee and Virginia border.

DiscoverBristol.org

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WINTER IS COMING. IT’S TIME TO EMBRACE THE COLD. B Y G R A H A M AV E R I L L

My neighbor is perpetually stoked. He’s a professional kayaker and has the zest for life that typically comes standard with that profession, so he’s excited for rain, drought, a cooler full of beer, a comfortable lawn chair, fresh cut grass, a freshly groomed pump track…there is nothing in the world that can get this guy down. And this summer, my family and I had a taste for what that kind of lifestyle entails. The stoke was high. The global pandemic was, and continues to be, a colossal bummer, but if there was a silver lining to the doom and gloom, it’s that my family suddenly had a lot of time on our hands thanks to the widespread cancellation of “life as we know it.” And we made the most of it. We rode bikes constantly and camped most weekends. I built a climbing wall in our backyard and added a jump line to our pump track. We explored random trails, rivers, and peaks close to home. We caught fish. In a lot of ways, our new lifestyle was cathartic; riding bikes through the neighborhood and orchestrating backyard campouts felt like a wholesome diversion while the world crumbled around us.

But that was when the temperatures barely dipped below 65 degrees.

Winter is upon us and I’m worried my family won’t be able to keep that stoke alive. We’re still stuck at home hiding from germs, but it’s not warm and sunny outside anymore. It’s not as easy to rally for a lunch-time bike ride when it’s 32 DECEMBER 2020 - JANUARY 2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 35

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and sleeting. I’ve been on plenty of winter adventures in my day and I can attest to the fact that freezing in the dark kind of sucks. I have no stoke for that.

But damn it, our lives kind of depend on it. The mental health benefits of getting outside on the reg are well documented. An hour of being outside is basically like taking an anti-depressant. Then you have the long-term benefits of exercise, the health benefits of gathering with friends (which we can only safely do outside right now), and it’s basically a public health imperative that we have to keep the outdoor stoke alive, even as the temperature drops.

Hell, especially as the temperature drops. Layer the global pandemic and economic downturn over the typical seasonal affective disorder that winter brings and we could be headed for a disaster.

Basically, what I’m saying is if I can’t get my family outside often, we’re going to kill each other.

Unfortunately, my wife and kids hate the cold.

I’m not in love with it myself. I’ll risk losing toes to frostbite if there’s powder to ski, but if there’s no snow? Pour me a whiskey and plant me next to the fire. I have soft southern blood that’s evolved to tolerate mild winters. The whole world saw what my people do when that ice storm hit Atlanta a few years ago. We’re not suited for true winter conditions.

Chances are, if you’re sitting in the south and reading this, you’re also from a long line of people who panic and buy all of the milk and bread when snow is in the forecast. But we’re just going to have to toughen the hell up. There are kids in Germany that go to school outside all year long.

Even when it’s snowing. Indigenous people living in arctic climates have survived for centuries without central heating. The Yakut have lived in Siberia, where temps drop to -90 degrees Fahrenheit since the 13th century. Is it so crazy to ask my daughter to put on some faux fur and spend a 20-degree night in a tent?

The good news is, if I can drag my family out into the woods this winter, we’ll probably have the entire forest to ourselves. We sat in traffic jams coming out of our favorite campsite in Pisgah National Forest during the summer because everyone was hiding out in the woods. We worked hard to avoid the crowds, eschewing the more popular trails for more obscure options, hitting lesser-visited districts and going deeper and deeper into the backcountry. But come winter, we should have the classic trails and crags to ourselves. And maybe we’ll be healthier and happier for braving the cold? There’s some science to suggest exposure to cold boosts metabolism, helps fight anxiety, and improves your immune response. I think we could all use an immune system boost.

And listen, maybe there will be snow. Maybe we’ll have one of those “good” winters when the resorts can open all their runs and we can cross-country ski at the higher elevations every weekend. 2020 has given us little reason to be hopeful, but let’s nurture the last ember of optimism that remains and wish for a killer, snowy winter. Either way, I’m determined to embrace the cold. To ski when we can ski and bike when we can’t. To continue the backyard bonfires and weekend campouts. We’ll layer up. We’ll bring cocoa and those handwarmer packets that cause second degree burns. We’ll toughen up and keep the stoke alive!

WINTER GEAR HERE Here are a few key pieces of gear to help stave off the cold for the whole family this winter.

Solo Stove Bonfire ($250) The fire is everything during winter, and I’m not just talking about camping. The backyard bonfire has become a staple in our family. It gives us a chance to avoid the Boob Tube cycle on choice evenings and invite neighbors over for a socially distant beer. The Solo Stove makes that tradition safer (the fire is contained inside the stainless steel can) and easier (holes in the top and bottom of the can circulate air through the fire). solostove.com

Therm-a-Rest Honcho Poncho ($115) Ponchos aren’t just for surf bros spending the winter in Baja. The Honcho adds a layer of synthetic insulation wrapped in a water resistant ripstop nylon with a hood. Sure, you’re wearing a coat and standing next to the fire, but one more layer isn’t going to hurt.

My wife and daughter live in the Honcho. thermarest.com Purist Founder ($56) It’s amazing what my kids can suffer through if there’s a mug of hot chocolate in their immediate future. I’m going to use this massive carafe, which keeps 32 ounces of bevy hot for hours, as a metaphorical carrot to keep my kids motivated on winter hikes, bike rides, and campouts. puristcollective.com

Rab Hut Boots ($70) These camp shoes have helped me fight off cold toes on many frosty nights in a tent and by the fire. They’re stuffed with synthetic insulation in a ripstop outer with a grippy sole that’s tough enough to let you wander around camp. rab. equipment Stanley Master Unbreakable Hip Flask ($40) and Nesting Shot Glasses ($25) Science says whiskey doesn’t warm you up in the winter and that, if anything, it can desensitize you to the dangers of over exposure. This is the rare situation where I give scientists the finger. If it’s cold, I need my whiskey. This flask keeps it safe in my pocket and the tiny shot glasses allow me to share some hooch without sharing germs.

Safety first. stanley1913.com •

DECEMBER 2020 - JANUARY 2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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ON THE JOB: ALAN HOUSEHOLDER LEADS LLAMAS ON MOUNT LECONTE. PHOTO BY JESSICA TEZAK

LEADER OF THE PACK THE LLAMA WRA NGLER O N M OU NT LE CO NTE

BY MORGAN SIMMONS

It was 5:15 a.m. and pitch dark when Alan Householder parked the livestock trailer at the Trillium Gap trailhead at the foot of Mount LeConte.

The autumn leaf change was in full swing in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and by midmorning, the parking lot would be overflowing.

But for now, Householder and his llama team were all alone. Working by headlamp, Householder brushed each llama and cinched their pack saddles.

The cargo that day consisted of clean laundry and Styrofoam meal trays bound for LeConte Lodge, which is the highest overnight lodge east of the Mississippi River and only reachable by hiking one of five different trails.

When dawn broke at 7:15 a.m., Householder and his seven llamas were on their way.

“I will miss working with these guys,” he said.

“They each have their own personality, and they don’t talk back.”

Except for a year-long hiatus in 2011 to have knee surgery, Householder, who’s 65, has been leading llamas for LeConte Lodge nonstop since 2002. Three days a week he and the llamas haul perishable foods, clean linens, and mail to the top of Mount LeConte via the Trillium Gap Trail—a nearly 14-mile round-trip hike with an elevation gain of almost 3,400 feet.

Householder’s llama packing trip that October day was one of his last. On November 24, the lodge’s last day of the 2020 season, Householder retired as LeConte’s llama wrangler, a job that surpassed his wildest dreams from day one.

“I took this job because I really like hiking,” he

said. “I thought I’d last a couple of years and move on. There were days when it was raining, or I’d be really tired, and it felt like a job. But in the big picture, I always knew it was a great opportunity. I loved having the Trillium Gap Trail as my office.”

After 1.3 miles, the llama team reached Grotto Falls, one of the most photographed waterfalls in the Smokies. Every llama hauled between 40 and 60 pounds. Only in muddy sections of the trail did their soft footpads leave any tracks, and the whole procession was eerily quiet as it climbed up the north face of Mount LeConte.

In 1984 LeConte Lodge switched to llamas to reduce trail erosion. Before that, horses and mules had been used for 60 years. Through the lead rope, Householder could feel the rhythm and mood of the llama train. A coal-black llama named Jack was in the lead, followed by Cooper, Jimmy, Bruno, Rueben, Little Deer, and Andy.

“Jack is a leader because he doesn’t mind having a person in front of him,” explained Householder.

“He’s as laid back as a llama can be.”

Just beyond Grotto Falls, Householder placed nylon mesh masks over the llama’s muzzles—not to discourage them from spitting, but to prevent them from chomping on waxy-green plants like rhododendron and mountain laurel that could make them sick. Stream crossings gave the team a chance to drink, and there were several stops along the trail where the llamas took designated potty breaks.

From black bears sneaking up behind the llamas to having the entire team slide down the mountain after one member slips and falls, Householder has experienced his share of “llama drama.”

“The hardest thing for the llamas is working in the summer,” Householder said. “They like it cold.”

Householder’s rapport with the llama team rose to a new level in 2014 when he married Chrissy Mann (now Chrissy Householder). They met as crew members at LeConte Lodge. In addition to working as a labor and delivery nurse, Chrissy tends to the llamas’ health needs and accompanies Householder up the mountain whenever she can.

“I learned a lot of llama psychology from Chrissy,” Householder said. “Llamas don’t want affection; they

want respect. At first I’d bark orders at them, but that was the wrong approach.”

Householder and the llama team reached LeConte Lodge—elevation 6,400 feet—at noon. The lodge and kitchen were roped off due to COVID-19, but there were plenty of guests.

“Alan has gone above and beyond to see that the lodge gets what it needs, and the llamas get what they need,” says John Northrup, general manager of LeConte Lodge, about Householder. “People think it’s an easy job, just hiking all day with these fuzzy, cute animals. But it tests you in every way.”

A major ingredient in the llama wrangler’s job is the sheer amount of walking. During the lodge’s nine-month season, Householder hiked a total of 1,300 miles. Walking is in Householder’s DNA. He has completed the Appalachian Trail, as well as the Pacific Crest Trail. In 1997 he and guidebook author Allen DeHart became the first to hike the Mountains-to-Sea Trail from Clingmans Dome in the Smokies to the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

And in the winter of 2005-2006 Householder became the first American to complete the 435-mile Australian Alps Walking Trail from Melbourne to Sydney.

The trip down the mountain that afternoon posed more challenges than the climb up. The pack saddles were filled with dirty laundry and trash. At each rest stop, the llamas emitted a soft, low-frequency hum reminiscent of Buddhist monks chanting in deep meditation. Householder said this was not a sign of contentment, but of restlessness.

“They’re anxious to get back to the parking lot,” he said.

During the descent, Bruno, the third llama in line, kept stalling, which caused the line to bunch up.

Patient as always, Householder dropped the lead rope and went up and down the line, feeding each llama a carrot and whispering in each left ear. After several minutes, the team was back underway, this time in perfect formation.

“I feel for these guys,” Householder said.

“They’ve already made it to the top. For them, going back down is the final insult.”

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A RISING TIDE LIFTS ALL BOATS D U RING TIMES O F H A R D S H I P, CO MMU NITY LEA DE R S I N N O RT H CA RO LINA LO O K AGA I N TO T H E ROA NO K E R I V E R

BY ASHLEY STIMPSON

he Roanoke River passes under I-95 at mile marker 173. Here, just north of the town of Weldon (known as the Rockfish Capital of the World), the river comes apart like string cheese, tumbling down the fall line to create the Roanoke Rapids, fast and foamy and scenic as hell. Hard as it is to believe, this isn’t even the wildest part of the river, the part that locals call “the Amazon of North Carolina.” To find that place, you have to get off the interstate. You have to drive down narrow country roads, framed by cotton and peanuts and sun-bleached houses covered in pine straw.

Past the shuttered mills and the playhouse-sized church with a sign out front, a warning to spiritual procrastinators: “church doors closed do [sic] to rapture.” Beyond the bypass and straight into the heart of the old, old South.

Here—in rural Bertie, Martin, and Washington Counties—the Roanoke swells into an enormous flood plain, feeding blackwater swamps where birds find sanctuary and cypress trees reach from the ground like zombies at night. And in the middle of all that untouched wilderness, something else: camping platforms. Fifteen simple, square structures placed at intervals along the river and its cola-colored tributaries, accessible only by boat and anyone looking for a singular outdoor experience.

“Those are our carrots,” says Carol Shields, director of Roanoke River Partners, the organization that built those platforms almost 25 years ago. “That’s what brings people to us.”

Shields and her group are not adventure outfitters. They are not river keepers, although they do care deeply about the preservation of this place. Instead, RRP is a cheerleader of sorts, a nonprofit dedicated to the economic wellbeing of the communities—the port towns they call them— along the Roanoke River. Before eco-tourism was a hashtag—heck, RRP was luring paddlers to the river and, more importantly, the region, trying to fill the calamitous void created by the exodus of the textile industry and the near-extinction of the area’s small farms.

Building camping platforms, they hoped, would be like building a new economic infrastructure: one that revolved around a commodity that couldn’t be outsourced to Mexico or pummeled by a Walmart on the four-lane. Bait that would draw curious visitors to eastern North Carolina where, after docking their boats, they would wander into local cafes, motels, and shops, pouring money and pride back into the communities they found. It’s a common enough strategy now, but back then, it was wholly original—and unproven.

And while they couldn’t reverse globalization or resurrect family farms, the platforms have worked.

I know this because I saw a blurb about them in a glossy magazine a few years ago, and I did it: I bit the carrot.

T

he Roanoke River is some magic combination— both startlingly remote and remarkably accessible.

In the 130-ish miles that the RRP works on, paddlers will find a dozen access points with parking lots, boat ramps, and signage, making it possible to plan a trip with one car and no outside help.

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

My boyfriend Jeff and I began our journey at an access point in the tiny, tidy town of Williamston, where we met Captain Heber (Hee-ber) Coltrain, the one-man team behind Roanoke River Adventures and our shuttle for the weekend. With big, round eyebrows and a coastal-plains accent that steamrolled my Yankee heart, Coltrain wasted no time in regaling us with the vibrant history of the region: the nearby Tuscarora reservation, some Aaron Burr-related drama, an old WWII POW camp.

Before we set sail, Coltrain held court on the hood of his truck. He brought us a map, and a breakout map, too, and traced a pencil along the route he had planned for us. Coltrain has been on the river ever since his daddy plopped him into the family’s homemade plank boat, propelled by a 1953 Western Auto Wizard engine. The landmarks he tells us to look out for are decidedly…intimate: rusted metal peeking from the woods, crumbling hunting shacks, variations in the tree line.

And then, we were alone—unless you count the bald eagle we spotted immediately, drawing circles in the sky. Or the juvenile eagle that watched suspiciously from a sycamore. Or the sliders crashing off every sunny log we approached.

Welcome to the Amazon of North Carolina, we thought, our oars forgotten in our fists.

Thanks to some recent rain, the river did most of the work for the first two miles. At a drop in the tree line, just like Coltrain had instructed, we aimed starboard into Devil’s Gut, a straight or maybe a slough that was downright rowdy with wildlife.

The cypress closed in, the current slackened, and immature ibises pooped in the water from the branches above. Kingfishers rattled by, doing a sweep of the perimeter. A few hours and a full memory card later, we followed the signs to our first destination, Barred Owl Roost, a 20 x 20 wooden platform that rises from the swamp, ethereal as a raft afloat on the sea.

Fires are prohibited on the platform, so dinner

was a quick affair. Soon we were tucked in with headlamps and books. Before the sun even set, the platform’s namesake birds were warming up— Who cooks for you? —answered quickly by the pterodactyl screams of a great blue heron.

P A D D L E O V E R N I G H T: 1 5 C A M P I N G P L AT F O R M S A R E AVA I L A B L E T O R E S E R V E T H R O U G H R O A N O K E R I V E R PA R T N E R S A L O N G N O R T H CAROLINA'S SCENIC ROANOKE RIVER. PHOTOS BY ASHLEY STIMPSON

Awareness of the river’s history is important in its own right, but Shields is also hopeful these efforts have slept in the yawning expanse of the will attract a more diverse set of nature lovers to Badlands, in the alpine silence of the Great the Roanoke. “Historically it’s been a lot of white Basin, but I have never felt as alone as I did on guys on the river,” she says. “We want our Black that platform, which is kind of ironic because I spent brothers and sisters to take their rightful place in the most of the evening considering the lives adjacent outdoors.” to the river. Not just the owls and the herons, but the Between emancipation and the economic people who have relied on the Roanoke, present downturn of the 90s, the river provided fish, a and long gone. bonanza of them. Back when he was kid, Heber I thought about the first Roanoke River Partners Coltrain remembers hearing stories of guys pulling meeting that Carol Shields described, back in 1997. seines out of the river with a million wriggling A group of local officials, business leaders, and herring inside. At one time, “the striped bass comin’ concerned citizens gathered in one room to answer up in there was 60, 65 pounds,” he says with a one question: whistle, still awestruck all these years later.

How can we bring people back?

Even now, with the pandemic in full swing, the A Civil War trail got the green light, an antiques Roanoke River provides, enticing tourists to counties trail, too. Someone mentioned that a group of where most attractions remain closed or limited in paddlers had recently called the tourism bureau their offerings. seeking advice about traversing the length of the They say you can’t step in the same river twice; river. Someone else mentioned those chickees they indeed, the Roanoke’s iterations seem endless. That built in the Everglades. What if they combined the doesn’t mean it’s always benevolent, though, as we two, a river trail punctuated by camping platforms? learned. On the second day of our trip, we paddled It’s not the first time a community in crisis looked a fat section of the river where the current and to the Roanoke for help, and not the first time the headwind were downright hostile. Our hours on the river provided. The Roanoke was a vital thoroughfare achingly gorgeous Cypress Cathedral platform—the in the Maritime Underground Railroad. Runaway one we shared with a very industrious muskrat— slaves followed the waterway to the Albemarle were wet and windy.

Sound and points north; Black boatmen spread intel On our paddle to the take-out, the rain came up and down the banks, and surrounding swamps down for hours. To pass the time, I fantasized about and forests provided a place to disappear. In 2008, eating something fried at the Hen and the Hog in the river was recognized by the National Park Service Halifax, about the warm cabin we were going to rent as a National Underground Railroad Network to from Green Acres, a 54-year-old family campground Freedom site, and since then RRP has been working in Bear Grass. Carol Shields would have been proud to install interpretive signage along its shores and to hear my internal monologue of wants, my single develop a passport program for the region like the carrot now a veggie tray, water from the Roanoke tied one popular with national parks enthusiasts. up in my hair, its history now part of my own.

DECEMBER 2020 - JANUARY 2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM 41

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CUMBERLAND IN CRISIS A C O M M E R C I A L R O C K E T FAC I L I T Y WO U L D R E G U L A R LY C LO S E A NAT I O N A L S E AS H O R E TO T H E PU B L I C .

BY WILL HARLAN

“What other national park in America faces the prospect of fiery destruction every month?” asks Rebecca Lang. She lives next to Georgia’s Cumberland Island National Seashore and in the flight path of a proposed commercial launch facility on the adjacent mainland. If the facility is built and rockets are launched, Cumberland Island could be frequently closed to the public, sometimes for days or weeks at a time.

And at least 20 percent of the rockets launched each year would be expected to fail, resulting in explosions and debris raining down on the island.

No other national park is closed to the public to accommodate a private enterprise.

“No one would close the Smokies or Yellowstone or any Wilderness area to the public so that a private company can engage in business over it,” says Carol Ruckdeschel, a celebrated sea turtle biologist on Cumberland Island. “A taxpayer-funded, publicly owned national park should not be closed to accommodate a private company, especially one that would threaten the health and safety of visitors.”

The commercial rocket facility is being proposed by the leaders of rural Camden County in south Georgia, and they have already spent $10 million in taxpayer money trying to get it approved. In 2018, Camden County withdrew their first proposal just before it was likely to be rejected by the FAA for failing to satisfy safety requirements.

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BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

Camden County filed a scaled-back proposal earlier this year, and in the meantime, they also quietly granted themselves emergency powers to evacuate Cumberland Island and nearby residences whenever they deem necessary for the commercial interest of the rocket facility.

“The emergency powers amendment seems to allow the commission to declare an emergency prior to a rocket launch and then use police powers to pull people out of their homes,” says Kevin Lang, Rebecca’s spouse and a Georgia attorney.

The proposed site is only a few miles from the country’s largest nuclear submarine base, which has raised concerns from the U.S. Navy. The National Park Service has also expressed alarm about the proposed rocket facility. Former national seashore superintendent Fred Boyles called it “one of the greatest existential threats that Cumberland Island has faced.”

The site has already experienced deadly explosions before. In 1971, an industrial fire and explosion killed 29 and injured 50, with shock waves shattering windows up to 11 miles away. The site was owned by Morton Thiokol, Inc., which manufactured booster rockets on the site for NASA. Union Carbide purchased the site and flares, tear gas, grenades, and other munitions. Many unexploded ordnances still remain on site. Now owned by Dow Chemical, the site is home to one of the country’s most contaminated

O N E O F T H E M O S T S C E N I C D E S T I N AT I O N S I N T H E S O U T H , C U M B E R L A N D I S L A N D N AT I O N A L S E A S H O R E H O L D S N E A R L Y 1 0 , 0 0 0 A C R E S O F F E D E R A L L Y D E S I G N AT E D W I L D E R N E S S . P H O T O C O U R T E S Y O F THE AUTHOR

hazardous waste landfills, full of toxins from decades of pesticide production.

“It’s the worst possible site for a commercial rocket facility,” says Lang. Every other vertical spaceport in the United States launches directly over the ocean. In the history of U.S. space flight, neither NASA nor the FAA has permitted a vertical launch over private homes or people immediately downrange.

But the proposed site adjacent to Cumberland Island would launch rockets over dozens of private residences and a national park that hosts 60,000 visitors each year. Part of the island is a federally designated Wilderness Area that protects endangered species and critical wildlife habitat.

Cumberland Island is also home to some of the oldest and most important African American cultural sites. Cumberland is part of the Gullah-Geechee heritage corridor. The Gullah-Geechee people protect and maintain structures from a historic slave settlement, a cemetery, and the First African Baptist Church—now directly in the flight path of the proposed rocket facility. Many of the Gullah-Geechee people still live close to the marshes that would be directly affected by rocket fuel and other hazardous

wastes discharged by the facility.

Over 2,500 acres of state-owned marsh is being proposed for use as a debris containment area for the rocket launch site, which would violate Georgia’s Marshlands Protection Act. Georgia’s Department of Natural Resources can stop the project, and so can the FAA, but they would have to stand up to significant political pressure.

“DNR will do the right thing, follow the law, and protect our coastal resources if politicians let DNR do its job,” says Lang.

The Trump administration rolled out new regulations that gut the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) and eliminate public comment on projects that require federal approval. As a result, the rocket facility’s new permit application will not include any public hearings or formal comment opportunities. A decision is expected in the spring of 2021.

Camden County commissioners say that the proposed rocket facility, dubbed Spaceport Camden, will bring more jobs and tourism. However, most residents of Camden County oppose the spaceport and the millions already spent. Many millions more could be squandered on a launch pad that never gets used, says Camden County resident Steve Weinkle.

After five years, Camden County commissioners have failed to lure a single company to use the proposed site.

“Taxpayers will be paying for decades,” says Weinkle.

And even if Camden County receives a permit to construct the site, it is unlikely that the FAA would ever issue an actual launch license, adds Lang. The FAA requirements for launching rockets are much more stringent than the requirements for a site permit.

Even local fishermen oppose the project, since rocket launches would close their waters to fishing for long stretches. Greg Hildreth has been commercially fishing in the waters near Cumberland Island for decades. At a public meeting in 2018, he said that the rocket facility would “hurt my business. For some private entity to come in and try to take that away from me, my other fellow captains, and recreational anglers, is unacceptable.”

A groundswell of local residents and organizations across the region hopes to convince the FAA not to issue any permits for the rocket facility. Southern Environmental Law Center has already taken legal action, and the FAA has already received a record-setting 15,600 comments—nearly all of them opposing the proposed rocket facility.

“One rocket failure over Cumberland could destroy centuries-old maritime forests, the habitat of multiple threatened and endangered species, and National Historic Districts,” says Jessica HowellEdwards, program director of the nonprofit Wild Cumberland and organizer of the No Rockets Over Wilderness coalition. “National parks like Cumberland Island were not created to become debris fields for private rocket companies. They are cherished public lands that belong to us all.”

Want to comment on the proposed rocket facility threatening Cumberland Island? Submit your thoughts to the FAA and sign a petition at norocketsoverwilderness.org

WHERE ARE THE CARNEGIES AND ROCKEFELLERS?

Two of the wealthiest families in America have private residences on the island. So do the Candlers, the Coca-Cola heirs who are hoping to develop 88 acres of Cumberland Island, including a portion of the beach. Normally vocal and outspoken on issues facing Cumberland Island, these wealthy island families have been noticeably silent on the proposed rocket facility.

One reason may be that Camden County is considering a change to the island’s zoning laws to allow development of private property within the national seashore boundaries. Some of the island families have acknowledged that they will not oppose the commercial launch facility so that Camden County will zone their property in favor of their development plans. •

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CLOSE CALL

A N AV I D ADVE N TU RE R FACE S H E R TO U GHE ST CHAL L E N GE A F T E R S UFFE RIN G A S U D D E N B R A I N A N E URYS M

BY BETTINA FREESE

C

rowds of people stood high on a cliff, watching the carnage of boaters flipping through a Class V rapid on the Gauley River, when a stray kayaker took an entirely rogue line, flipping her boat upside down before it became solidly wedged between boulders, the waves violently slamming against it to ensure its entrapment. We could see the point of the boat wagging against her futile efforts to dislodge.

There was nothing we could do that wouldn’t take at least 20 minutes to safely get to her. We made our way to the river’s edge. I held my breath so that I wouldn’t cry, but also because I wanted to clearly understand how much air she had left before we watched her die. I was already out of breath when she suddenly emerged next to the boat after a successful wet exit that left her clinging to the boulder, still out of our reach. Tyler threw a rope that she was too exhausted to grab and she didn’t look capable of making it to shore without physical help. I could not believe that she was alive.

Forest rangers quickly arrived and worked for over half an hour to get her to the river’s edge where she stood bewildered, trying to comprehend what the hell just happened. I made my way along the overhanging cliff, grabbed her by the shoulders, looked frantically into her face, and said, “We just watched you die. You understand that, right? You are a badass for getting out of that boat. You were just now given another chance. You’ve gotta step away from here knowing that!”

She held my gaze and we both simultaneously burst into tears, hugging.

I

T H E A U T H O R ( B A C K R I G H T ) E X C I T E D L Y N AV I G AT E S A R A P I D O N W E S T V I R G I N I A ' S G A U L E Y R I V E R . P H O T O B Y W H I T E WAT E R P H O T O G R A P H Y; COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR

don’t even know her name, and even after that river trip many years ago I still think about her a lot. But on this strange year’s Summer Solstice I pirouetted my own slack line over the abyss of ever after.

I woke up excited about plans to celebrate the longest day of the year with my besties. I hopped excitedly downstairs and said good morning to my 17-year-old son before climbing back in bed, waiting for coffee. My 12-yearold boy was fortunately at my girlfriend’s farm three hours east. I pulled the delicious covers back up and felt a sudden, fierce pain at the base of my skull, increasing and sliding over my head; a thunderclap headache.

I began violently puking, rolling onto the floor, crawling to the bathroom, shitting myself. I did a mental checklist and knew this was serious. I weakly called for my son and got under the hot shower, in too much pain to cry. I slipped into dirty clothes on the floor while still calling for him and tried texting to cancel the day’s plans. It was cryptic. Friends

later told me they assumed it was my 89-year-old father having an emergency. I tried dialing 9-1-1, but could not remember the numbers. I looked at my “favorites” list in case someone driving here would be faster than an ambulance, when my son finally walked in and I begged him to drive me to the emergency room.

My head hurt so badly that I couldn’t walk, and my vision was blinded with white light. I slid downstairs and crawled across cobblestones. I sprawled across the back seat of the car, shivering violently, asking for the heat on high on a 75-degree morning.

Emergency room docs diagnosed me after a head CT with an aneurysm, caused by a spontaneous arterial rupture, and loaded me into an ambulance to the next hospital where doctors would attempt to coil the artery via angiogram. The burst was in a rare spot, far into my frontal lobe, so they were unable to reach it. My friends tracked me down, and despite COVID-19 restrictions, Mary was there, holding my face as I breathed out tearful gratitude among curse words. By the end of the day, I was on board a helicopter heading for UNC-Chapel Hill Medical Center.

Another coiling attempt failed, leading me to a seven-hour surgery, which left me with a bloody drain hanging off the side of my head, a six-inch sutured gash, and a black eye. Despite the intravenous load of meds, I writhed in pain, my blood pressure fluctuating wildly.

In the following days, I slipped in and out of consciousness while pain levels rarely changed. It hurt too much to cry. I hated talking, and saying a

few simple sentences was overwhelming. For some reason I was able to text. I don’t remember this, but days later I saw I was able to set friends up on a blind date without being conscious.

I couldn’t find a comfortable position, and now Jodi was here to rub my head, wash my hair, feed me food that I immediately vomited, and be my advocate and rock. The village I spent 51 years creating took care of my children and father with dementia. Biz even cut my papa’s awful toenails and brought him flowers.

Each day I tried to get stronger. I tried to eat. I drank water. I went for short walks. I could not think about tomorrow or what came next. I could only breathe through the moment.

As I improved, I read research on aneurysms and learned that 50 percent of patients die before making it to the hospital. Of the 50 percent remaining, only 16 percent will be unscathed, without stroke symptoms. I stopped reading. I was not yet out of the woods. Lying in bed for two weeks, starving, resulted in extreme muscle loss. The doctor said that every day in bed translates to one week of lost strength. Once the head pain began dissipating they took me off the Oxycodone and sent me to the step-down floor.

I was surprised with discharge plans as the Fourth of July weekend approached, so my children’s father made the three-hour trek to bring me home. He pulled up, gathered me, and I suddenly fully realized that I had been through something big. Other people had been waiting for word each day of my survival, while I had been just

trying to comprehend the present.

Once home, I walked across the cobblestones, and my younger son burst out the door to greet me with the most life-sustaining hug we had for each other. I suddenly felt the exact same intensity from the moment I first met him after doctors surgically removed him from me. He was a survivor too.

M

onths later I am still unraveling and constantly questioning myself. I wonder about my perspective coming from a trauma brain that is overly emotional, forgetful, easily overstimulated, and quickly triggered, and I wonder if other people look at me and see something different or wrong. I am still attempting to decipher the hidden treasures I should appreciate and how to proceed in life as a person now on bonus time.

I am not the same Bettina. I am a physically weakened but mentally more resilient version of her. I am just getting to know her. She has the same powerful experiences, and the same fire in her soul to keep thriving and exploring, but she is more present, and her love is more powerful.

My friend Michelle told me that the pressure of “doing something meaningful with your life” to honor the gift of survival can cause anxiety. But I’m intent on celebrating each fantastic moment with even more zest. In the fall I went to the Gauley River for another wild ride, and when I found myself trapped underwater beneath the boat in the most dangerous rapid on that river, I had no angst, and I was not nearly afraid of dying.

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PANDEMIC LIFE

LEARNING TO LIVE OUTDOORS REFLECTIONS FROM T H E LO N G E ST Y E A R

BY JULIA GREEN

S

ince March, aside from speedy grocery runs and a few medical appointments, I’ve hardly been indoors. When I’m inside, the announcement that played in airports after 9/11 rings in my head: The threat level is…orange. When I step outside, I feel relief, filling my lungs with the sweet, safe breath of the natural world.

Until this year, I considered myself fairly outdoorsy, getting into the woods on weekends, enjoying sunny days with friends on porches (preferably screened), and walking to the grocery store when weather permitted. And then 2020 turned our lives upside down, sounding its clarion call of you ain’t seen nothing yet.

In the spring I took several walks a day, circling the neighborhood and 48

BLUE RIDGE OUTDOORS

watching the world closely. I saw buds form and open, smelled each bloom.

I heard the whine of table saws and marveled as decks, garden beds, and chicken coops materialized. People I’d never seen before became familiar faces: the young woman with short, bleach-blond hair and John Lennon glasses, the young man walking his Corgi, the middle-aged guy with a bushy beard, big headphones, and a blue and orange Durham Bulls hat. Curious and also bored, I paid excruciating attention to everything, hoping to unlock a secret, to make a reassuring discovery that would restore sanity and security.

Although the world seemed to stand still, time was apparently elapsing. Summer, my least favorite season, arrived, bringing its twin infuriations of humidity and mosquitoes. In normal times I spend the summer in movie theaters and coffee shops. In 2020, with nowhere to hide out, I walked after dark, against the hot hum of cicadas, and plugged the box fan in for a backyard breeze. It scattered some skeeters but the rest found me and I surrendered, reminding myself with every jab that we were all just trying to survive.

On clear nights we watched movies in the backyard with friends,

our chairs at a safe distance. It was a balm to be with others, to connect without endangering ourselves. We stayed up late talking, emptying our basket of worries, the breeze dispersing our anxiety as Saturday night stretched into Sunday morning.

The ice cubes clinked and the barred owl hooted. The neighborhood possum dropped by, perching on the high fence. I guess he was lonely too.

The chill of autumn always shocks me, a thrilling reminder that summer can’t last forever. This year I was startled again to realize that while I was stuck, still at home, still doomscrolling, the seasons continued to rotate. I spent the fall sitting in the backyard, watching leaves drop one by one, drinking hot chocolate and mulled cider by the warmth of the fire.

On election night we left our screens inside and gathered by the fire, staring at the burning logs and wondering what the future held.

This longest year will be over soon, but we will tell and retell the story of 2020 for the rest of our lives. I will recount a weekday afternoon walk in the woods in late September, my husband and I moving quietly through the trees, the screenlessness and silence settling our brains. As our minds wandered, the winds picked up

and the temperature dropped. Dried leaves, the first layer of fall coating the path, rose and swirled before us, as if under a fairy tale spell.

Had the forecast called for rain?

It didn’t matter. There was nothing we could do about it. It fell cold and thick on my skin, heavying my clothes, pushing me toward the earth it was feeding.

Just a few weeks later, it happened again. I was out walking with a friend.

A steady rain came on. We kept walking. It was quiet in the woods and once you’re wet, you’re wet. I had arrived at the trailhead by bike. As I rode home, the rain flew at me, off me, pedals and wheels spewing it back onto the road. The deluge continued, water everywhere, inescapable.

This year has subjugated us humans to the will of the body, to biology and principles of infectious diseases we hadn’t considered, to the many ways the natural world has the upper hand. There was a time when I considered the elements a force to negotiate with and around, but now I know the relief of relenting. Nature’s vast expanses embraced me this year, offering space to connect with other humans and ponder our capacity for endurance and survival, lessening the great aloneness of 2020.

PHOTO BY JULIA GREEN

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THE NORTHERN EDITION | DECEMBER 2020 - JANUARY 2021 | BLUERIDGEOUTDOORS.COM

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FOREST FRIENDSHIP

WOODS WORK

BY ROBERT MCGEE

D

eep in the forest where I live are the remains of a granite carriage house built long ago and neglected for half a century. For the past few months, a man I’ve known for years (though not well) has been coming over to help remove brambles and vines from the overgrown walls.

Each week, we go into the woods armed with only hand tools, and hands. And while I won’t claim it’s the blind leading the blind, we were both liberal arts majors, so draw what conclusions you will.

His degree is from Harvard, though, so it’s become a running joke that I only allow Ivy Leaguers to pull poison ivy. As I watch him claw at stubborn roots, I say, “I really learned a lot from Tom Sawyer, but where’s my gold watch?”

“Funny you say that,” he replies and then relates a dream in which he paid twenty dollars for the privilege of 50

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being my serf. “I got so mad that I tore up the check and swore not to come back.”

“Twenty?” I say. “In my dream, it was thirty.”

Truth is, we’ve agreed not to trade money for woods work since the paltry sum I could afford might seem more of an insult than boon to his finances. Also, money tends to taint.

In lieu of cash, I gift my volunteer with shiitake mushrooms, figs, pears, and, once, a bouquet of chrysanthemums.

The produce is appreciated but not required, he assures me. He craves physical work to help sleep at night.

Like a committed couple, we settle into pleasant rhythms and peaceful routines. Some days we work in silence, and some days we share stories about his soccer star son; his wife who makes him bathe the moment he returns home; the woman I love who’s begun seeing someone else.

One day I’m so punchy from insomnia and heartbreak that I kneel before a mossy human sized rock and shout, “I wanted to share my life with you, but you took me for granite!”

“I think maybe you should rest,” my co-worker says with a gentle

laugh when he sees how useless I’ve become.

Truth is, there are times when we both feel useless--as if we’ve hit a figurative wall and can do nothing more on the literal one until given a sign. But then there’s a subtle shift--a shaft of light glancing through trees, a clap of surprising thunder—and one of us is suddenly renewed with enough vigor to hack through the morass and get us back on track once again.

As you’d expect, we’ve fantasized about finding hidden treasure, and we’ve discussed how to divide the loot and what each of us might do with newfound wealth. But then one of us will snap from foggy delusion and proclaim, “These woods are all that we need.”

Each day I’m amazed by how— together—we achieve far more than twice what I could accomplish alone; and each day I’m inspired by Nature’s splendid gifts.

Wild geese soar overhead, honking down at us with immense energy.

Woodpeckers with comical red wigs cheer us with laughter.

Falling leaves resemble tears of joy.

Woods work is so fulfilling that I often wonder, Is this merely work, or is it something more? Truly, if I had one day to live—or one hundred years— there is nothing else I’d rather do.

I stand on solid stone and feel light. I tiptoe across bogs and seem to float.

The forest has swallowed up all the bits of who I used to be and spit me out new. I’ve received so much that I cannot fathom there is more to come until one afternoon when my partner says, “I have extra time before I fetch my son, should we have tea?”

I suppose it’s because he knows of my romantic trouble and has begun to worry about my being alone for the winter holidays that he invites me to join him for tea in my home.

We remove our muddy boots and sit near a roaring fire. At first we speak of many things and then for a time we utter no words. For a long while we merely gaze at seasoned oak burning bright.

As flames flicker and gases rise, it occurs to me that we set out to work in the woods, and the woods wound up working on us. We set out to unveil some old ruins and discovered friendship.

PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTTY IMAGES

REFLECTIONS

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