Elevation Outdoors May/June 2023

In Granby everything’s a little more independent.

Like the Flying Heels Rodeo.

This isn’t a big fancy rodeo, where you need to bring binoculars.

It’s the type of rodeo where you get dust on your boots and let your kid ride a sheep.

It’s here because locals make it happen. Locals make it happen because ranching and rodeo are in our roots and still an important part of who we are today.

It’s not what you’ll find everywhere. But that’s kinda the point.

GRANBY.

A LITTLE MORE INDEPENDENT.

GONNA

IN THIS ISSUE

DEPARTMENTS

7 EDITOR’S LETTER

Our attitudes toward Indigenous people in Colorado need to go beyond land acknowledgments.

9 QUICK HITS

Seek adventure in Norway’s Arctic waters; escape the crowds and visit Colorado’s best state parks this summer; take these tips to heart to see wildlife in Rocky Mountain National Park; fish, ski, and luxuriate at Eleven Taylor River Lodge; learn how Olympian Timmy Duggan is helping kids pursue their dreams; and more.

14 FLASHPOINT

Water-rights worries have compelled grassroots groups to craft an alternative solution to a Wild and Scenic designation for the Dolores River.

The bill is advancing in Congress, but the river is still in trouble.

16 HOT SPOT

The water is high and it’s time to get out and surf Colorado. Here’s where to do it, where to get the gear, and when to party with local paddlers in Salida, Buena Vista, and Montrose this summer.

18 STRAIGHT TALK

As he gets more mature, legendary Colorado climber Tommy Caldwell is focusing more on the global meaning behind the big projects he undertakes and the missions and values of the brands he represents.

30 ELWAYVILLE

Most of the best—and some of the worst— moments in Peter Kray’s life are all tied to music. This is how memory gives us each a soundtrack all our own.

FEATURES

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THE 2023 MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL GUIDE

In 2023, we can get back to being together, dancing, competing, hula-hooping, singing, paddling, running, and finding a like-minded vibe at music and sport festivals across the Rocky Mountains. Dig in to our annual festival guide and plan a summer of fun.

28 FESTIVAL GEAR

Stock up on gear that will make your time in tent city even groovier.

ON THE COVER

When we think of Colorado festivals, we think of artist Phil Lewis, who created this stunning canvas especially for our annual guide.

By Phil Lewis phillewisart.com Instagram @phillewisart

LET THE VIBES TAKE YOU: The Dillon Amphitheater will be just one of Colorado’s classic outdoor festival venues abuzz with music and hundreds of your closest friends this summer.

SPRING 2023

Rainbow Eco Tee

No dyes. No chemicals. No wastewater. 100% recycled. recoverbrands.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN doug@elevationoutdoors.com

PRESIDENT / PUBLISHER BLAKE DEMASO blake@elevationoutdoors.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR MELISSA KENNELLY m.kennelly@elevationoutdoors.com

EDITORIAL + PRODUCTION

MANAGING EDITOR CAMERON MARTINDELL cameron@elevationoutdoors.com

DEPUTY EDITOR TRACY ROSS

SENIOR EDITOR CHRIS KASSAR

COPY EDITOR MELISSA HOWSAM

EDITOR-AT-LARGE PETER KRAY

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

AARON BIBLE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, SONYA LOONEY, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS SETH BOSTER, JOSHUA BERMAN, ELIZABETH MILLER, ARIELLA NARDIZZI

DESIGNER/ART MANAGE R REBECCA CENCEWIZKI art@blueridgeoutdoors.com

ADVERTISING + BUSINESS

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER HANNAH COOPER hannah@elevationoutdoors.com

ADVERTISING INQUIRIES hannah@elevationoutdoors.com

CIRCULATION INQUIRIES circulation@elevationoutdoors.com

DIGITAL MEDIA

ONLINE DIRECTOR

CRAIG SNODGRASS

DIGITAL EDITOR

RYAN MICHELLE SCAVO

PUBLISHED BY ©2023 Summit Publishing, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

What music will be at the top of your playlist when you head out on adventures this spring?

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

I have been deep in the now-streaming De La Soul catalog. It’s like connecting with an old friend and discovering something completely new at the same time.

HANNAH COOPER

I wish it was something cool, but my 2-year-old is usually in charge of what we listen to, so probably a lot of Raffi, Casper Babypants, etc. Wish me luck.

CAMERON MARTINDELL

Whatever song my kids have latched onto and constantly ask to be played on repeat... endlessly. My hope is to rid the noise from my head and soak in the sounds of nature.

TRACY ROSS

Boygenius. I can’t wait to see them in Boise in August!

CHRIS KASSAR

I’m all over the map on music— Grateful Dead to Taylor Swift, Rolling Stones to Lizzo, and everything in between.

ARIELLA NARDIZZI

My springtime soundtrack is lots of folk rock! Mountain music is my favorite way to fully immerse myself in an adventure.

ELIZABETH MILLER

I just discovered Cosmo Sheldrake, a multimedia artist from the United Kingdom, and I’ll be spending some long drives with his music made by sourcing natural sounds.

SETH BOSTER

I’m crazy about the War on Drugs’ latest album, I Don't Live Here Anymore. It's got upbeat jams to get me going on the drive to the trailhead and slower, reflective numbers for the drive back.

PHIL LEWIS

I’ve been listening to a lot of Desert Dwellers lately—great smooth grooves for art-making!

PETER KRAY

I have been listening to Lukas Nelson lately—Willie’s kid. Nice to know there’s another generation of music.

INDIGENOUS AWARENESS

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

Blanca Peak is one of my favorite mountains. It’s a stunning beauty—especially blanketed with snow in the early spring—rising 14,351 feet far above the San Luis Valley and Great Sand Dunes. It stands out even from the other peaks of the lovely Sangre de Cristo range around it, both because it sits somewhat separate from them and because it’s simply massive (the fourth highest peak in the Rockies with 5,326 of prominence from the valley below). When I drive back from skiing in Taos, New Mexico, or seeking sandhill cranes in the San Luis Valley, I find myself transfixed by its grace and presence. I have spent a lot of time in mountains around the planet—but this one is one that brings me back.

Blanca, white in Spanish, is an apt name for this giant, but it’s a relatively new name. For the Diné (Navajo) people the peak is called Sisnaajiní and, as one of their sacred mountains, it marks the eastern boundary of their traditional homeland. It has other names, too, from other tribes and times long before European settlers began to name the features of the West as if they could claim them for their own. I want to call Blanca Sisnaajiní, since it adds something to the peak and it is a sign of respect to the people who have lived on this land for countless generations. It makes it more than a spot on the map, a hike, a tick on a fourteener list; it gives this mountain context in the ancient history of this place. And I want to know other Indigenous names of these mountains that surround me, especially the ones—Mount Evans, the Gore Range—Europeans named after people, who committed crimes against the original inhabitants of these lands. Though it seems important to me

to know and use the Diné name of this mountain and others, it’s not simply a way for me to feel better. It’s a reminder to me that the stillpersistent traumas of colonialism and the genocide of Indigenous Americans are not comfortable topics for most of us and that how we go about reckoning with those deep-seated wrongs has to go beyond using Indigenous names or making land acknowledgments without deeper thought and action. In fact, I first learned the name Sisnaajiní from a piece by Dr. Len Necefer, the founder of Native Outdoors, who has a lot to say about the silly misuse of land acknowledgements.

Last fall, I attended the Outdoor Industry Summit in Salida, Colorado, and heard Ernest House Jr., senior policy director and director of the center for tribal and Indigenous engagement at the Keystone Policy Center, speak about land acknowledgements and how they can be used effectively. He stressed that, “If you’re doing it to check a box, then you’re probably doing it wrong. But if you’re using it as a true commitment to establish a better relationship with these tribal nations that were removed, then you are on the right track.” I also learned about the history of the Ute tribe, pushed off its lands here in Colorado to a sliver of a reservation, as well as 46 other Indigenous nations forcibly removed from Colorado. So yes, renaming mountains and land acknowledgements are important. But more so, we should be aware of the real challenges Indigenous people face and issues affecting their day-today lives on reservations and simply living as citizens in this nation. And when it comes to their ancestral lands, it’s time to be sure they are involved in the management of them and that they are assured tradtional access to them. This would be true acknowledgement.

SISNAAJINÍ : THE MASSIVE MOUNTAIN LORDS OVER THE SAN LUIS VALLEY.

WE MUST GO BEYOND LAND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS.

Frontier History. Cowboy Heritage. Craft CULTURE. The Great Outdoors. The Nature of the West. 1.1

million acres of pristine wildland in the Bighorn National Forest, encompassing 1,200 miles of trails, 30 campgrounds, 10 picnic areas, 6 mountain lodges, legendary dude ranches, and hundreds of miles of waterways. The Bighorns offer limitless outdoor recreation opportunities.

101

restaurants, bars, food trucks, lounges, breweries, distilleries, tap rooms, saloons, and holes in the wall are spread across Sheridan County. That’s 101 different ways to apres adventure in the craft capital of Wyoming. We are also home to more than 40 hotels, motels, RV parks, and B&Bs.

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seasons in which to get WYO’d. If you’re a skijoring savant, you’ll want to check out the Winter Rodeo in February. July features the beloved Sheridan WYO Rodeo. Spring and fall are the perfect time to chase cool mountain streams or epic backcountry lines.

sheridanwyoming.org

Sheridan features a thriving, historic downtown district, with western allure, hospitality and good graces to spare; a vibrant arts scene; bombastic craft culture; a robust festival and events calendar; and living history from one corner of the county to the next.

LOFOTEN LIFE

YEARLONG ADVENTURE AWAITS OFF IN THE NORWEGIAN ARCTIC.

Located just inside the Arctic Circle, the Lofoten Peninsula is the most prominent jut of land from Norway into the Norwegian Sea. While tourism is most popular in the summer, there’s still lots of adventure to be had here in the northern winter. Want to experience it yourself? In 2020,Norwegian gear brand Nørrona, founded in 1929, merged with 40-year-old travel experience company Hvitserk Adventures ( hvitserk.norrona.com) to expand the mission of earth-friendly practices in both manufacturing and adventure travel. You can sea kayak, hike, and e-foil board year-round in Lofoten, while backcountry skiing, snowboarding, and Nordic skiing come and go with the winter snow. And, when the skies are dark, there’s always a chance of catching the magic of the Aurora Borealis.

—Cameron Martindell

THE ARCTIC WATERS OF NORWAY'S LOFOTEN ARCHIPELAGO ARE BEST EXPLORED IN A SEA KAYAK.

PHOTO BY LARS PETTER JONASSEN @LPJONASSEN

HIDDEN GEMS

THE RUSH TO COLORADO’S state parks has slowed. According to Colorado Parks and Wildlife, the 42 preserves saw 19.5 million visitors in 2020, followed by a new record in 2021, closer to 20 million. Last year, the agency reported a drop to 18.2 million. Land managers elsewhere have noted what they call a return to pre-pandemic levels. Even if you were part of that rush to the state parks, here are some you might have missed. (Pro tip: You can automatically buy a Colorado State Parks pass when you renew your car registration in the state.)

CASTLEWOOD CANYON, FRANKTOWN

Castlewood Canyon proves there’s more than meets the eye on Colorado’s eastern plains. Case in point, this sprawling geologic gash off Colorado 83 near Franktown. Historic remains

TECHNOLOGY

ONX BACKCOUNTRY

The newly launched Elite subscription unlocks all of the app’s Premium membership features plus a brand-new Private Lands Layer which includes property boundaries, landowner names, and lot info for the entire United States. This info is ideal when you need to find an easement across private land for conscientious trip planning. $99/YR | ONXMAPS.COM

of a dam—the break responsible for Denver’s devastating floods in 1933—are still viewed from the trails. We recommend the Inner Canyon Loop—but watch out for rattlesnakes. Also several rock climbing routes range from 5.8 to 5.12b in difficulty; some are restricted for raptor nesting in early summer. cpw. state.co.us/placestogo/parks/ castlewoodcanyon

MUELLER, DIVIDE

Despite its proximity to Front Range populations, Colorado Parks and Wildlife calls this one of its “hidden gems.” Mueller State Park hides out in Teller County, a varied expanse of meadows, forests, and rugged ridges overlooking Pikes Peak. The opportunities here are similar as those in Golden Gate Canyon State Park: hiking, camping, wildlife-watching. But

the crowds are smaller. Last year, CPW recorded 124,326 visitors to Mueller, compared with Golden Gate’s 1.3 million. cpw.state.co.us/ placestogo/parks/mueller

LATHROP, WALSENBERG

While Lake Pueblo remains Colorado’s busiest state park, this aquatic escape to the south near Walsenburg doesn’t get talked about nearly as much. Colorado’s first state park, Lathrop boasts two lakes for anglers and all types of boaters. There’s also a swim zone, a paved loop for cyclists and a nine-hole golf course.

You can also consider the short hike on Hogback Trail, leading to an iconic view of the Spanish Peaks. cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/ parks/lathrop

SYLVAN LAKE, EAGLE

Near Eagle, don’t be fooled by the exit signs for the lake off

Interstate 70. To reach it, you’ve got a ways still to go on a rough dirt track. Here’s your reward, though: Sylvan means “a peaceful, wooded place.” The small lake is only half the appeal. The surrounding White River National Forest awaits. cpw.state.co.us/ placestogo/parks/sylvanlake

MANCOS, MANCOS

Deep in southwest Colorado, Mancos is another remotebeyond-remote—and, therefore, least-visited state park. And, yet, it feels so quintessential Colorado: a quiet, wakeless body of water under the San Juan Mountains; singletrack trails for hiking and biking; and camping with a side of glamping. Take your pick from tent sites and yurts. cpw.state.co.us/ placestogo/parks/sylvanlake

—Seth Boster

GEAR WE LOVE BOOKS

LEKI BLACK SERIES FX CARBON

At just 8 ounces per pole, this kit provides all the comfort and stability without causing fatigue. The all natural cork Aergon Air grip is comfortable dry, damp, or wet, and the internal core locking device is easy to manage with just one pull. The breathable wrist straps are easy to adjust, and the pole telescopes from 110 to 130 centimeters, and stores at just 38 centimeters (15 inches). $270 | LEKI.COM

BRAVE THE WILD RIVER

In the summer of 1938, botanists Elzada Clover and Lois Jotter set off down the Colorado River to be the first to survey the plants of the Grand Canyon—outlandish for women of the day.

Through letters, diaries, and newspaper reports of the two women and others involved, author Melissa Sevigny traces their 43-day journey.

$30 | WWNORTON.COM

ESCAPE THE MASSES AND ENJOY THESE OVERLOOKED COLORADO STATE PARKS ALL BY YOUR LONESOME.

WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE

ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL

Park is a wildlife lover’s paradise with a diverse range of wildlife that inhabits the park’s rugged landscape. From majestic elk to elusive mountain lions, there are plenty of opportunities to don your binoculars and spot animals in their natural habitat (elk: a lot, mountain lions: not so much).

The Moraine Park area is home to a large elk herd, making it a prime spot to view these iconic animals. Or check out the willow thickets along the Colorado River in the Kawuneeche Valley on the park’s west side for a chance to spot both elk and moose.

For those interested in birdwatching, take the Cub Lake Trail, an easy hike through a variety of ecosystems, including wetlands and dense forest. Keep your eyes peeled for the American dipper and northern pygmy owl.

And, finally, search for higherelevation friends like marmots, pikas, and bighorn sheep in rocky areas, and on the alpine tundra along Trail Ridge and Old Fall River roads.

Visitors to RMNP should always remember to respect the animals and their habitats by keeping a safe distance. With a bit of patience and luck, wildlife sightings can be a powerful highlight of any trip to this incredible national resource.

—Ariella Nardizzi

EAT PLAY STAY: TAYLOR RIVER LODGE, ALMONT, COLORADO

EAT

The beautiful thing about an allinclusive experience is you don’t have to make a lot of decisions— and this proved true for my family and me at the Eleven Taylor River Lodge, (elevenexperience.com/ taylor-river-lodge-summer) on the road to Cottonwood Pass. With preplanned menus for the duration of our stay, the lodge’s culinary team expertly curated custom meal plans for our diverse crew. My wife and I were able to have exactly what we wanted, while our (somewhat picky) kids were satisfied and nourished too. Heavily influenced by local availability, the cuisine was fresh, creative, and crazy delicious. The kids even braved a few bites of steak tartar that my wife whipped together in her private cooking class with head chef Austin—and our 9-year-old daughter, Rosie, keeps asking us to make it at home!

PLAY

This particular corner of the Colorado wilderness offers a huge range of activities. Our visit was in the winter, and we took advantage of the snowy landscape. Rosie and I booked a private guided ski tour in Gunnison National Forest. Rosie has been on a few ski tours, but this was her first there, and she was rightfully cautious. But once we were skinning uphill, she found her stride and her grin only grew, especially while were skiing down—even after the powder caught the edge of her ski and sent her tumbling. My wife and 5-year-old son did some Nordic skiing around the property, and that afternoon, when Rosie and I returned, the saltwater pool and hot tub were a big hit. In warmer months, fishing is a big focus, with a stocked trout pond on-property and the cabins are just steps away from the Taylor River itself. For

bigger water, the Gunnison River is just minutes down the road for fishing and float trips. Nonfishing activities include fun singletrack mountain biking and woodsy hiking trails. On-site guests can use the rock climbing wall, fling some arrows at the archery range, and try hatchet throwing.

STAY

Each of the buildings on property give a warm nod to the history of the area while also providing all the modern amenities expected from a luxury property. Hunting, fishing, and exploring are part of the decorative interior landscape, providing a homey and comfortable feel without being snooty. A range of cabin styles suit different party sizes: six cabins with queen beds, en suite bathrooms, and steam showers (three with two twin bed lofts); a single-family home with two king suites and a lofted bunk room with four full beds; and the largest, a single family home with two king suites, a bunk room with two double beds, and a full kitchen.

—Cameron Martindell

IT’S PRIME TIME TO CHECK OUT THE FAUNA IN ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK.

BASK IN RUSTIC LUXURY IN THE REMOTE GUNNISON NATIONAL FOREST.

COURTESY ELEVEN EXPERIENCE (X3). BOTTOM: COURTESY VISIT ESTES PARK

ELEVEN TAYLOR RIVER LODGE

LOCAL HERO TIMMY DUGGAN

HELPING KIDS SHOW THEIR SMILE AND CHASE DREAMS

EVERYONE SAW THE ROAD cyclist, the national champion and Olympian. Timmy Duggan saw himself as more. “Cycling has been my identity, how a lot of people in the world know me,” he says from his Nederland home 10 years after retirement. “But that's not what defines me.”

He always saw himself as an alpine skier, first and foremost. And there’s something else people might’ve missed.

“It would take someone like me to know what they were really looking at,” Duggan says.

Someone like him, born with a cleft lip and palate. This has defined his advocacy in post-

RMNP TIMED-ENTRY PERMITS HERE TO STAY

racing life. Duggan has supported Operation Smile, the surgical nonprofit providing patients with care essential to breathing, eating, and speaking. According to the organization: “As many as 9 in 10 people can’t access basic surgical care, and can endure years of bullying, social isolation and severe health problems.”

Duggan counts himself fortunate for never enduring any of that. Treatment followed much of his youth, “but I never really dwelled on it,” he says.

He focused on competition— cycling and skiing. Now, he’s focusing on a cause, hoping kids can pursue their dreams, as he did. —S.B.

Tour the Full Day Bus Tour

Travel

PERCENTAGE-WISE, THERE are very few national parks in the U.S. that require timedentry permit systems to address negative impacts caused by visitor crowding and congestion. Arches, Glacier, Haleakala, and Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) require timed-entry permits to enter any part of the park during peak hours. A handful of others also have some reservation system to enter. RMNP, as one of the busiest parks, with over 4.6 million visitors in 2019, will implement another

pilot temporary timed-entry permit reservation system this season, beginning on May 26, 2023. The 2023 pilot program in RMNP is part of the park’s long-range visitor use management plan and will be similar to last year’s with a few modifications: One is that 40 percent of all reservations will be made available the day prior at 5 p.m. on recreation. gov Luckily, getting up super early, before the sun, is still one of the best hacks for beating any reservation system.

Joshua Berman

See The Sights on an All-Inclusive

FLAMING GORGE BUS TOUR

Halfway between Yellowstone and Canyonlands National Park in Southwest Wyoming lies unforgettable Flaming Gorge Country. Striking landscapes, tranquil waters and towering rock formations make this high-desert hidden gem a must-see on your next Wyoming adventure.

The best way to explore the area–and get a glimpse into the past? Reserve an all-inclusive, guided Flaming Gorge bus tour. Leave the planning to us and simply enjoy the sites.

Travel along an All-American Road and stop at canyon overlooks, scenic valley vistas and a 502-foot dam. Watch for wildlife like bighorn sheep, mule deer and eagles and learn from experienced local guides. Bring your family or group for this one-of-a-kind experience. Tickets are just $68 and available now.

Alight your soul in Flaming Gorge Country and awaken your sense of adventure in Sweetwater County. This is how we explore it.

Learn more and reserve your tickets at ExploreWY.com or call 307-382-2538.

DRYING UP

WATER-RIGHTS WORRIES HAVE COMPELLED GRASSROOTS GROUPS TO CRAFT AN ALTERNATIVE SOLUTION TO A WILD AND SCENIC DESIGNATION FOR THE DOLORES RIVER.

THE BILL IS ADVANCING IN CONGRESS, BUT THE RIVER IS STILL IN TROUBLE.

by ELIZABETH MILLER

At points during 15 years of negotiations, a group of near strangers stood on the canyon rim looking over the river they were fighting over and fighting for.

The Dolores River tumbles out of deep pine forest in the San Juan Mountains, running between streaked peach sandstone walls and red earth flecked with junipers, collecting tributaries for 200 miles before joining the Colorado River in Utah. The Dolores River Dialogue convened more than 40 farmers, ranchers, local government officials, off-road vehicle users, conservation group members,

recreationists, and staff from land management agencies, and tasked them with talking long enough to find a compromise that, according to Jeff Widen—a senior public lands advocate with The Wilderness Society and member of the group—no one loved, but one with which everyone could live.

“There were no yelling matches, but there were some strong back-andforths of people shaking their heads and saying, ‘Ah, we just can’t go there,’” Widen recalls.

Group members repeatedly visited the river they were discussing. They drove the Dolores River Road, talking about the route’s popularity with off-road vehicles and mountain bikers and crucial access points to Snaggletooth Rapid, the river’s most aggressive. They discussed seasonal wildlife closures. They met with private landowners and heard their concerns. They held more meetings, divided into subcommittees. Eventually, they wore down, like stones in a river. Or, if the people didn’t, the document they gathered to write did.

Their work yielded a bill introduced to Congress in March to create the Dolores River National Conservation Area. It’s legislation for a river written by those closest to it. The bill holds the promise of protecting the river and its corridor of old growth pines and red canyons from dams and other

development. But what a river really needs to be a river is water, and there’s little to be had. Only in high water years like this one, with the San Miguel and Dolores river basins at 180% average snowpack in early April, will the river run for recreational boating or flow in a way that preserves its function in the ecosystem.

“Even when we’re just looking at the water rights and irrigation, those folks have been taking a hit, and then there’s certainly not enough left over for the natural environment, and then for recreational releases,” says Amber Clark, executive director of Dolores River Boating Advocates and a member of the Dolores’ working group. “The whole system is definitely taking a hit, and everybody and everything has been impacted negatively the last few years.”

Bring in the Feds

The Dolores River working group was spurred to action by a federal analysis that identified 109 miles of the river between McPhee Dam, north of Cortez, and the Western Slope town of Bedrock for possible Wild and Scenic River designation in 2007. The working group’s members were asked to consider whether that tool was best and, if not, propose a substitute. Consensus landed on creating a national conservation area instead.

DESERT SOLITAIRE: A 2008 WORKING GROUP RECOMMENDED 109 MILES OF THE DOLORES BE DESIGNATED A NATIONAL CONSERVATION AREA.

Though still designated by Congress, the approach was seen as more pliable and place-based than the ready-made framework of the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act.

“The water user community—Westwide, but particularly in Colorado— hates the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act,” Widen says.

Less than 1/10th of 1 percent of Colorado’s rivers—just 76 miles of the Cache La Poudre north of Rocky Mountain National Park—have Wild and Scenic status, often considered the stiffest protections a river can secure. Since 2009, state legislators have even dedicated up to $400,000 per year to the Colorado Water Conservation Board to support groups developing alternatives to it, including for the Dolores River.

“There’s just a strong preference for state-based solutions,” says Brandy Logan, water resources specialist with the Colorado Water Conservation Board.

Wild and Scenic Rivers typically include a “federally reserved water right.” That water right would have allocated a share of the Dolores’ water to the federal government to keep in the river to protect the

“THE WATER USER COMMUNITY—WEST-WIDE, BUT PARTICULARLY IN COLORADO—HATES THE WILD AND SCENIC RIVERS ACT.”

—JEFF WIDEN, THE WILDERNESS SOCIETY

qualities that made it Wild and Scenic, including native fish and recreation opportunities. Water rights in western states, including Colorado, often allocate entire rivers to the farms and cities alongside them, leaving none for the river itself. That framework, particularly now, two decades into a drought, has pushed riparian ecosystems and native fish onto precarious ground.

A Wild and Scenic River’s water right can’t subtract from existing water users; it can only speak for water that isn’t already someone else’s.

“Nevertheless,” Widen says, “there’s just very longstanding opposition to Wild and Scenic Rivers.”

A federally held water right would open the door to the feds, with their deep pockets and numerous lawyers, challenging other water users along the river and taking the matter to federal court instead of Colorado’s water court. Roy Smith, who works on water rights, instream flow protection and Wild and Scenic Rivers for the U.S. Bureau of Land Management, explains, “That’s what many of the stakeholders are concerned about—that some of that procedural control where they’re able to be in the process might evaporate.”

The BLM oversees most of the land in the proposed new conservation area and has managed those river miles for decades as though they were Wild and Scenic to protect the possibility that they might someday

be. The bill specifically withdraws the area from consideration as a Wild and Scenic River. But it preserves much of what a Wild and Scenic designation would have, even copying over some language. Specifically, dams are banned, as is development that would negatively affect the river, like new roads, mining claims, or oil and gas leases. For the conservation and recreation community, Clark says, “There was a willingness to have a conversation about a different tool to use, but there were some components of protections that are afforded currently under Wild and Scenic suitability that we just weren’t willing to compromise on.”

Sen. Michael Bennet is working to pass this legislation, with Sen. John Hickenlooper, both Democrats. Rep. Lauren Boebert, the famously guntoting Republican who represents the Western Slope, introduced a companion bill in the U.S. House. Boebert told the Durango Herald she sees the bill as striking a balance of protecting the area without “trampling on the rights and liberties of the American people.” In political eras past, having both senators and the local congressional representative sign on to legislation would have paved its way, Widen says, but these days, nothing moves so easily through Congress. If the bill passes, it’ll likely be tacked on to another must-pass bill on the budget or a defense bill. There’s

also hope for a package of land management bills that would bundle conservation efforts around the country. In any case, the route forward is sinuous and uncertain.

A Transformed River

In the meantime, the Dolores lives as a transformed river. The McPhee Dam made for a narrower, shallower channel. Without spring floods, where and how native plants like narrow leaf cottonwoods and willows grow along the river has changed. Native fish species, the flannelmouth sucker, bluehead sucker, and roundtail chub, are declining, though monitoring efforts paired with this new conservation area seek to reverse that disturbing trend.

Then, there’s the drought wringing out the Southwest since 2000. Less than 40 cubic feet per second of water dribbled downstream in the Dolores for much of last year. The river hasn’t been boatable since 2019, but will be this year as snowpack is expected to fill the reservoir and allow for “spilling” water downstream for a proper whitewater season.

“What we’re seeing more and more is that there’s not enough water every year to fill the reservoir. Recreational releases are not happening every year, and there have been some major hits to the downstream environment and native fish populations because at times in the last couple of years,

SEEKING PROTECTION: ADVOCATES ARE COMING TOGETHER TO WORK WITH DIVERSE USER GROUPS AND LAWMAKERS, INCLUDING SEN. MICHAEL BENNETT (BOTTOM LEFT).

there was barely a trickle coming out of the dam,” Clark says. “Then as you get further down, the river’s drying up, and there just are some stagnant pools. A lot of ecological issues come from that.” Colorado could allocate more water to the Dolores River. If those rights could be purchased or leased from a senior water holder, they might even hold out in low water years. But it’s still a tense situation.

“Our conservation partners say, ‘You’ve been at the table for 15 years; why can’t you get more water in the river?’ It’s because there’s no more water to be gotten. It’s owned. It would be like saying, ‘Why don’t you tear down your neighbor’s house and build a new one?’” Widen says. “The boating community has tried and tried to find a way to put more water in the river, and it simply can’t be done.”

Elizabeth Miller is an independent journalist based in New Mexico who covers environmental issues and outdoor sports. Her work has been published in Backpacker, Outside, Scientific American, Undark, and The Washington Post, and has been anthologized in Best American Travel Writing 2021.

FLOWER EDIBLES CONCENTRATES TINCTURES AND TOPICALS

Tenderfoot Health Collective, (THC) is a locally owned and operated boutique dispensary located in Salida, Colorado since 2009. We are dedicated to raising the bar for what you can expect from a retail marijuana dispensary. We are committed to providing a unique and compassionate environment where all of our customers can access the highest- quality cannabis products available.

Skiing. Fourteeners. Columbines. Biking. Coors. Legal weed. All are quintessential Colorado. But, surfing? It’s not the first thing that comes to mind in our landlocked state, but surfing opportunities abound thanks to our mountain-fed rivers and visionaries who have created whitewater parks with sweet waves.

Born in Germany in the 1970s, river surfing’s popularity has burgeoned over the past decade. With around 30 whitewater parks in Colorado, we are quickly turning into a mecca for river surfing. But it’s about more than just making powerful ocean-style turns; it’s about community. Surfers spend hours at one spot, honing shortboard skills, cheering each other on, and sharing tips. As Salida resident and surfer Peter Jones puts it: “The river community I’ve found through surfing is the sweetest, most-welcoming I’ve experienced. They helped me find my passion for fun again.”

A big part of the fun is getting to check out different locations throughout the state (and beyond), since each town and surf spot has its own unique personality and characteristics. And because waves change throughout the year—even throughout the day— beginners to experts can always find a new challenge in the same wave.

With the help of Mike Harvey—cofounder of Badfish in Salida, riversurfing pioneer,and whitewater park designer for Recreation Engineering and Planning (REP)—we came up with a few can’t-miss spots for you to check

RIDE THE WAVE

by CHRIS KASSAR

out this summer.

Note: Always wear proper safety equipment, including a lifejacket and helmet, when recreating on the river.

SALIDA

What’s the holy grail of river surfing?

A wave you can ride year-round. Enter the Scout Wave, a wide, glassy sheet right downtown. Completed in fall 2022, this national attraction designed by Harvey is the best feature for surfing in Salida’s four-wave whitewater park.

A remodel of an original 2009 feature, the Scout Wave was built to perform best at low and moderate flows (below 1,000 cubic feet per second), which is what the Arkansas River experiences for 85% of the year. Thanks to advances in technology, Harvey says the Scout Wave is unlike most waves created to date: It’s faster, more sustainable, more reliable, and higher performing, meaning surfers can learn tricks, practice carving quicker turns, and progress all skills more quickly. Right now, it’s the most predictable, consistent wave in the state, but it hasn’t seen a summer yet, so we’re all waiting anxiously to find out what happens here at high water.

Gear Up: Born in Salida in 2009, Badfish (badfishsup.com) is opening a full-service mountain surf shop on May 5, just blocks away from the Ark in downtown Salida. Though Harvey and co-founder Zach Hughes have been in business for 13 years, they say the shop is “another chance to promote the history and culture of the sport and to interact with friends and the burgeoning

surfing scene.” For lessons, hit up Rocky Mountain Outdoor Center (RMOC) (rmoc.com) and for rentals, Totally Tubular (totallytubularsalida.com) is right next to the river.

Celebrate: FIBArk (First in Boating the Arkansas, fibark.com) is America’s oldest whitewater festival. Returning for its 74th straight year from June 15–18, FIBArk boasts a sweet music line-up, whitewater races, and biking and running events.

BUENA VISTA

Also on the Ark and designed by Harvey, the Buena Vista Whitewater Park boasts five features, including a few iconic waves in the surfing world. The best surfing feature, called Staircase Wave, is located ¼ mile downstream of the first feature (Uptown Wave) and near the Community Center. The popular Staircase Wave is beginner friendly, works very consistently at lower flows, and has a solid recovery pool. Plus, it’s not as fast as Salida’s Scout Wave, making it a great place for aspiring surfers to learn or hone skills. Harvey explains that this older feature, which will be getting an upgrade this fall, has contributed to the growth of the sport by helping people progress and gain confidence.

Gear Up: For rentals and all your river needs visit CKS Main Street (cksmainstreet.com) in downtown Buena Vista.

Celebrate: A celebration of river sports with music, competitions and fun, CKS Paddlefest (ckspaddlefest.

com) takes place May 26–29. Plus, 1% of every sale from the fest goes toward the River Fund.

MONTROSE

Due to irrigation releases on the Uncompahgre River, the Montrose Water Sports Park (also designed by Harvey) has a super-long season annually, with decent flows from March through October. Utilizing innovative construction techniques, REP created six distinct features (and adjacent fish passages) that vary in shape and difficulty—and change based on flow— turning Montrose into a sweet place for all skill levels. Waves 1 and 2 are best for intermediate and expert surfers, while 3 and 4 are ideal for beginners. With 1,000 feet of river channel, the WSP is one of the largest in Colorado and a valued resource that has helped grow river surfing on the Western Slope. It’s definitely worth a visit.

Gear Up: Montrose Surf and Cycle (montrosesurfandcycle.com) can meet all your outdoor gear needs, plus it offers surf lessons, rentals, and Surf Nights on Wednesdays throughout the summer.

Celebrate: FUNC Fest (aka Fun on the Uncompahgre, visitmontrose.com/events/ fun-on-the-uncompahgre) on Saturday Aug. 13 is a chance for all watersports enthusiasts to experience a day of funfilled activities including competitions, music, vendors, and food trucks.

THE WATER IS HIGH AND IT’S TIME TO GET OUT AND SURF COLORADO. HERE’S WHERE TO DO IT.

GOPRO MOUNTAIN GAMES CHAMP AND PRO PADDLER, MILES HARVEY SHOWS OFF HIS STUFF AT THE OFFICE WAVE IN SALIDA

In Colorado, where climbing is held in the same reverence as football, Tommy Caldwell is a household name. After all, the Centennial State native has elevated the sport to new levels with numerous first and free ascents and the stunning first free ascent of Yosemite’s 32-pitch, 5.14d Dawn Wall with Kevin Jorgeson in 2015, a feat that wowed audiences across the nation in the film of the same name. Caldwell has continued to dream big in his adventures since then, knocking off never-before-dreamedof objectives with Alex Honnold, including something they dubbed the Continental Divide Ultimate Linkup (CDUL), a 36.5-hour traverse in Rocky Mountain National Park that took in 17 summits and 65 pitches of climbing up to 5.11.

But Caldwell’s influence in the outdoor world and beyond goes far beyond just climbing stuff no one else can. As he has seen the effects of climate change first hand while out in the mountains, his life focus has broadened to encompass environmental advocacy and activism. A Protect Our Winters athlete and vocal spokesperson for conservation legislation, Caldwell leverages his prominence as an athlete to work with lawmakers and the public to try to make

NEW DAWN

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

a difference as human advancement threatens the natural world. He’s dedicated to working with and for brands with values, including B-Corp Patagonia and mission-focused Clif Bar. In April, “Earth Month,” the dad of two worked with Clif Kid to talk to and motivate kids to care for the planet. He took the time to talk to us in the middle of that campaign about being a dad, Earth advocacy, hope for the future, and his upcoming adventures.

What can you tell us about the work you are doing with Clif Bar to help make kids aware of what they can do in the face of climate change?

I ’ ve been a Clif athlete since 2008 and it ’s been an incredible partnership. I try to partner with value-forward brands and Clif has always been the tip of the spear for that. So, for Earth Day, we’re very excited to be launching the first climate-certified, climate-neutral kids’ bar. These certifications are hard to get. You have to invest a lot of money, really vet your supply chain, and figure out how much you are impacting the planet. It ’s a big deal. So I ’m super proud of Clif for making an effort to do that. And since it ’s a kids’ bar and I have kids, I ’m helping to spread the word about it.

Do you think your kids see the world in a different way than we did growing up?

In some ways, my kids are raised in a very similar way to how I was raised. We’re outside all the time. We’re going to the crags; we’re climbing constantly. We’re skiing. We’re immersed in nature. Therefore, they have a big appreciation for the outdoors and want to take care of it. I felt like I had that when I was young, but I think there is more urgency now with kids because it seems like the Earth needs more care. The future is more in question now. There’s climate anxiety. So at this point, we’re just trying to set an example of caretaking and doing the right things to try and reduce our impact. And I get involved in lobbying work a lot. My kids don’t do that, but they see it.

What can tell them you are doing—or that they can do—that is making a difference in the world?

I’m proud of the fact that we are working towards making our house a net-zero house. We also really carefully consider what we consume. We try to travel less. We barely ever eat meat. And those things are good, but, on a day-to-day basis, they probably don’t make a lot of difference. What we really need is policy change. And so working for policy change is what I’m the most proud of.

So is that type of climate awareness affecting the way you are choosing a new project? Are you thinking about it from a much broader standpoint?

Yes. For example, years ago, I would just pick the best climbs in the world that I wanted to go do. I ’d want to do a big wall route in Patagonia, so I ’d buy a plane ticket. I would focus completely on just the climbing objective. That has changed. This summer, I ’m planning a trip to the Tongass National Forest [in Alaska], where I ’m going to ride my bike 2,000 miles from Colorado all the way there and climb along the way and have this incredible summer of adventure. I will also do some storytelling around the Tongass because there’s old growth being logged and the place needs to be protected. The Tongass area has 80 to 90 percent Indigenous inhabitants, but there’s no comanagement there because it ’s just national forest land. There’s no major federal protection, which is what we’re shooting for longterm. Right now it ’s only protected through weird little laws like the Roadless Rule. So this trip fulfills my selfish want for adventure, but it also tells a much bigger story and hopefully helps raise awareness for this place and protect it.

TOMMY CALDWELL TALKS ABOUT HOW WE CAN HELP KIDS PROTECT THE PLANET AND HOW HIS LATEST OBJECTIVES ARE ABOUT MORE THAN JUST CLIMBING.

TOMMY CALDWELL ON THE FIRST

OF THE DAWN WALL ON EL CAPITAN

The 2023

MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL GUIDE

IT’S FINALLY THAT TIME OF YEAR AGAIN. IN 2023, WE CAN GET BACK TO BEING TOGETHER, DANCING, COMPETING, HULA-HOOPING, SINGING, PADDLING, RUNNING, AND FINDING A LIKE-MINDED VIBE AT MUSIC AND SPORT FESTIVALS ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. AND WE ARE HERE TO HELP. DIG IN TO OUR ANNUAL FESTIVAL GUIDE AND PLAN A SUMMER OF FUN.

BY RYAN MICHELLE SCAVO AND DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

MAY

Tico Time Bluegrass Festival

May 11–14, Aztec, NM

Tico Time River Resort, about 20 miles south of Durango, Colorado, hosts this hoedown of pickin’ and strummin’. The impressive lineup includes Yonder Mountain String Band, The Travelin’ McCourys, Kyle Hollingsworth Band, Lindsay Lou, Big Richard, Kyle Tuttle Band, and more. Plus, there’s plenty of camping—and even glamping— options for the whole dang family. ticotimebluegrassfest.com

Head for the Hills Pickin’ on the Dead

May 13, Bellvue, CO

Fest season in Colorado kicks off here when Pickin’ on the Dead—a Grateful Dead bluegrass tribute featuring Tyler Grant, Michael Kirkpatrick, Ace Engfer, and Jake Wolf—hits the stage with Banshee Tree at Mishawaka Amphitheatre. themishawaka.com

Food Truck Carnival

May 19–21, Northglenn, CO

Indulge in the eclectic styles of food available at the sixth annual Food Truck Carnival featuring bluegrass and Americana music on the main stage, beer tastings and a Tilt-A-Whirl-style carnival. foodtruckcarnival.com

Upslope Get Down

May 20, Boulder, CO

Bring the whole family to enjoy live music, eat great food, crush your friends in yard games, all while sampling beers on tap at this spring fling held in the back parking lot at the Upslope Brewery. You are sure to see EO staff here and, best of all, it’s free. upslopebrewing.com/getdown

Pikes Peak Birding and Nature Festival

May 18–21, Fountain, CO

Do not miss the “Birds and Brews” happy hour at this ornithological event with free appetizers, drinks, and beer from Phantom Canyon Brewery. See the list of which birds have been seen or heard during field trips, visit festival sponsors and partners, enjoy music, and share stories with other participants. pikespeakbirdingandnaturefestival.org

Rise & Vibes

May 19–21, Aztec, NM

This reggae-fueled fest at Tico Time River Resort will include performances by Matisyahu, The Movement, Del

IT'S TIME: TELLURIDE BLUEGRASS (OPPOSITE PAGE) AND ROCKYGRASS (THIS PAGE) TAKE CENTER STAGE.

The

Pyramid (Grammy Nominee), Sister Nancy, WookieFoot, Little Stranger, Balkan Bump, Cas Haley, Lily Fangz, Fayuca, Def-I, Niceness, and more. And there’s plenty of camping to share that vibe. riseandvibes.com

Festival of the Brewpubs

May 21, Arapahoe Basin, CO

Plunge into the best of spring skiing, live music and some of the best breweries at A-Basin. The festival will be set up in the base area (Mountain Goat Plaza), so come rip some stellar spring turns and sample some brews. arapahoebasin .com/event/festival-of-the-brewpubs

MeadowGrass Music Festival

May 26–28, Colorado Springs, CO

Spend Memorial Day weekend kicking off summer and shaking your thing to eclectic bands like Donna the Buffalo, Cha Wa, Moon Veil, JigJam and Twisted Pine, guided hikes or hammocking with your fam and practicing yoga at the La Foret Conference & Retreat Center. rockymountainhighway.org

Mountainfilm

May 25–29, Telluride, CO

The premier showcase for films of mountain adventure has grown into the premier documentary film showcase on the planet staying true to its mission: “Using the power of film, art and ideas, Mountainfilm inspires audiences to create a better world.” And where better to hold it than Colorado’s premier festival town? mountainfilm.org

CKS PaddleFest

May 26–29, Buena Vista, CO

Held in the mountain town EO readers voted “Best of the Rockies,” this fourday paddling extravaganza includes various river-centric events such as kayak freestyle and slalom and other events in whitewater, flatwater and land races in the heart of Buena Vista. You can take the plunge or simply kick back and enjoy the party. ckspaddlefest.com

JUNE

Animas River Days

June 2–4, Durango, CO

Durango embraces its lifeblood—its downtown river—with whitewater slalom, kayak rodeos, boatercross, and SUP races. And all this paddling fun is packed into one weekend. animasriverdays.com

Denver Day of Rock

June 3, Denver, CO

Don’t miss this free one-day music event that will feature four stages throughout Denver’s LoDo District and benefits a local non-profit, Amp the Cause. denverdayofrock.com

The Big Gear Show / (e)revolution

June 8–11, Denver, CO

The Big Gear Show is an exciting new event that showcases up-and-coming gear for specialty retailers and the media, then transitioning to

Funky Homosapien, Anthony B, Kabaka

a welcoming platform for consumers to learn about brands and gear that get them outdoors. The Big Gear Show serves the specialty retailer, the media, and the consumer interested in learning and experiencing gear firsthand. The show is not a selling platform to consumers, but rather an educational and experiential opportunity for those looking to learn and try before they buy. thebiggearshow.com

2023 GoPro Mountain Games

June 8–11, Vail, CO

Come join in on the country’s largest celebration of mountain sports or just ogle Olympians. Don’t miss three free nights of concerts, including Brothers of a Feather featuring Chris and Rich Robinson at the historic Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater. mountaingames.com

Hive Music Festival

June 9–10, Salt Lake City, UT

When we say hip hop, you say ... Salt Lake City? That’s right. Post Malone will once again headline the biggest hip hop fest in the Rockies alongside national acts including Kid Cudi, Joji, and Big Sean. hivefestival.com

Palisade Bluegrass and Roots Festival

June 9-11, Palisade, CO

Get ready for live music, artisan vendors, camping, paddle boarding, local wine and distillery tastings, lavender tours, painting workshops and so much more. This festival features some of the country’s top bluegrass artists as well as Colorado’s favorite emerging stars for three days of non-stop, festival vibes. palisademusic.com

Gunnison River Festival

June 10–12, Gunnison, CO

This festival is more than fun and games: It celebrates the importance of clean water for everyone, bringing people together to celebrate at the headwaters of the Taylor and Gunnison Rivers and regional creeks off the Continental Divide. gunnisonriverfestival.com

Dillon Amphitheater Summer Concerts

June 15–September 14, Dillon, CO

One of the most stunning venues in the Rockies is primed for a big season of performers including Jason Isbel and the 400 Train, The Infamous Stringdusters, and Gregoroy Alan Isakof. Plus, the amphitheater hosts free shows all summer long. dillonamphitheater.com

Country Jam

June 22–24, Mack, CO

Get your boots on for this four-day country music bllowout featuring 20+ bands on two stages. Want more? Get out and ride Fruita’s famed singletrack right down the road. countryjam.com

FIBArk

June 15–18, Salida, CO

FIBArk is the oldest whitewater festival in the world. What’s more, the event, best known for its paddling events, ranging from slalom to the hooligan race, is in its 75th year! Head

to downtown Salida for four days of whitewater, free music from national acts and an always hopping beer garden. fibark.net

50th Annual Telluride Bluegrass

June 15–18, Telluride, CO

The mother of all bluegrass festivals is celebrating its 50th year! World class bluegrass musicians, stunning views of the San Juans and plenty of family activities should keep your cup full for the weekend. Headliners include Robert Plant and Alison Krauss, Gregory Alan Isakof, Sam Bush, and Nickel Creek. bluegrass.com/telluride

TOP TO BOTTOM: COURTESY PLANET BLUEGRASS, COURTESY GOPRO MOUNTAIN GAMES

HAPPY DAYS: JOIN THE FAITHFUL AT TELLURIDE BLUEGRASS (TOP). GET YOUR OM ON AT THE GOPRO MOUNTAIN GAMES (BOTTOM). CHIME IN AT KEYSTONE MOUNTAIN MUSIC; STRIKE A CHORD AT BLUES FROM THE TOP; HOIST ONE AT A-BASIN'S FESTIVAL OF THE BREW PUBS (OPPOSITE PAGE TOP TO BOTTOM).

Sonic Bloom Festival

June 15–18, Hummingbird Ranch, Spanish Peaks County, CO

EDM lovers rejoice! Join acts including Clozee, Papadosio, Lotus, and tons more under the sparkling Colorado skies. Improvements this year include better restrooms, showers, and VIP options. sonicbloomfestival.com

Lake Dillon Beer Festival

June 17, Dillon, CO

Taste beers from over 30 Colorado breweries in one of the most dramatic settings around. Be sure to pace yourself as Saturday night’s concert will have you rocking and rolling into the night. coloradobeer.org

Outdoor Adventure X

June 17–18, Snowbasin, UT

Outdoor Retailer ’s consumer event, Outdoor Adventure X is a celebration of the outdoors, adventure travel, and the active lifestyle. Shop for gear and test the latest mountain bikes, kayaks, climbing equipment, and more. Then join in classes, workshops and roundtable discussions hosted by wilderness experts, around-the-world travelers, athletes, and other top adventure pros. outdooradventurex.com

Denver PrideFest

June 24–25, Denver, CO

What’s better than 350,000 people of all orientations celebrating love and inclusion? Not much! denverpride.org

Keystone’s Bacon and Bourbon Festival

June 24–25, Keystone, CO

How could you go wrong with a bacon and bourbon festival? You can’t! Top it all off with a bacon Bloody Mary and some bacon themed goodies. keystonefestivals.com

Telluride Yoga Festival

June 22–25, Telluride, CO

Now in its 16th year, this limber fest includes rafting, SUP yoga and daily hikes. Bonus: The gondola ferries yogis between classes. tellurideyogafestival.com

63rd Annual Annual Eastern Shoshone Indian Days

June 23–25, Fort Washakie, WY

In Wind River Country, the summer season also marks the beginning of powwow season. From May through August you can experience an amazing cultural event by attending a powwow on the Wind River Indian Reservation. It’s a chance to learn about the Eastern Shoshone and Northern Arapaho tribes and get caught up in the singing, drums and dancing. easternshoshone.org

Salida Art Walk

June 23–25, Salida, CO

For 30 years, the annual Art Walk has featured exhibits from local and regional artists in many forms, including art demos, musicians, and busking street performers. salidaartwalk.org

Ridgway River Festival

June 24, Ridgway, CO

Float with the whole family in celebration of the Uncompahgre River and the Ridgway community. Events include SUP races, an inflatables race, a hard shells race and “Junk of the unc” race. Riverfest is produced by a Ouray nonprofit that is dedicated to helping protect the Uncompahgre River watershed. ridgwayriverfest.org

Blues From the Top

June 23-25, Winter Park, CO

Winter Park’s non-profit blues festival brings some heat to the high country. It also serves as a showcase for young and up-and-coming blues artists as well as seasoned veterans like Drive-by Truckers and Grace Potter. bluesfromthetop.org

UFO Festival

June 30–July 2, Roswell, NM

The City of Roswell is excited to open its doors to a worldwide audience for the 2023 Annual UFO Festival. This destination festival will include plenty of immersive experiences, live music, local food, out-of-this-world photo ops, as well as other family friendly events happening all over the city. ufofestival.com

JULY

Dusty Boots

July 1, Denver, CO

Held in Civic Park, this barn buster will feature live performances by Colter Wall, Orville Peck, Margo Price, Houndmouth, Futurebirds, Murder By Death, Nick Shoulders, Willi Carlisle, Richy Mitch & The Coal Miners, Casey James Prestwood, Kyle Moon & The Misled, Extra Gold, and Honey Blazer. denver.org

First Friday Concert with the North Mississippi Allstars, July 7, Silverthorne, CO

Get your groove on at this free community concert at Rainbow Park featuring American blues and Southern rock band North Mississippi Allstars. Enjoy free kids activities and more. silverthorne.org

Crested Butte Wildflower Festival

July 7–16, Crested Butte, CO

What better place to celebrate summer than in the mountains—head to one of the most colorful and beautiful festivals in Colorado. Be sure to get out

on one of the insightful guided hikes. crestedbuttewildflowerfestival.com

International Climbers Festival

July 13–16, Lander, WY

More than just a chance to show off your skills, this festival is all about celebrating the community of climbing. According to the organizers: “When climbers come together at City Park and Wild Iris each year for traditions old and new, it’s a reminder of just how awesome this global climbing community is. We can celebrate our differences and similarities, strengths and struggles, and be reminded that we all share a common love.” Awww. See you there. climbersfestival.org

Under the Big Sky Festival

July 14-16, Whitefish, MT

This Americana-centric fest up in Whitefish should be worth the drive with headliners including Hank Williams Jr, Zach Bryan, and Caamp. This year’s lineup is insane, head over to their website for the whole list. underthebigskyfest.com

Keystone Wine and Jazz

July 15–16, Keystone, CO

Snag a glass of Malbec (or whatever you fancy) and bob your head to fest favorites Dotsero. keystonefestivals.com

Hanuman

July 13–16, Boulder, CO

Transcend the ordinary. Experience awakening, belonging, and connection at this four-day celebration of world-class yoga, mind-blowing music, inspirational experiences and nourishing community. hanumanfestival.com

Royal Gorge Whitewater Festival

July 21–22, Canon City, CO

Join in on two glorious days of boats, bands and beer along the Arkansas—and you might even take a scenic train ride along the gorge. royalgorgewhitewaterfestival.com

Oyster Ridge Music Festival

July 21–22, Kemmerer, WY

The Oyster Ridge Music Festival is Wyoming’s largest free festival. Kemmerer is quirky and cool, too. This folk-centric music—acts include Big Head Todd and the Monsters, The Band of Heathens, Trout Steka Revival, and more—fest may just be worth the drive to Wyoming! oystergrass.com

Rockygrass

July 28–30, Lyons, CO

The premier gathering for traditional bluegrass aficionados features Sam Bush, Lil’ Smokies, Sierra Hull, Peter Rowan’s Bluegrass Band, Big Richard, The Po’ Ramblin’ Boys, Molly Tuttle and Golden Highway, Mighty Poplar, and all the hot pickin’ you can handle. bluegrass.com/rockygrass

AUGUST

Rhythms on the Rio

Aug. 4–6, Del Norte, CO

Enjoy an eclectic weekend of music, art, and camping along the banks of the Rio Grande! Music from The Motet, The Infamous Stringdusters, Shinyribs and The Hip Adbuction is sure to get you on your feet and shakin’ your thing. rhythmsontherio.com

Keystone Bluegrass and Beer Festival

Aug. 5–6, Keystone, CO

Appalachia meets Colorado at this quintessential mountain festival. Add in drinks from 40+ craft breweries and you have one serious down-home weekend. keystonefestivals.com

Eagle Block Party

Aug. 11–13, Eagle, CO

Bring your dancin’ shoes to Eagle for a funky lineup to maximize your summer fun. Music from Lettuce, Otiel & Friends, and Dumpstaphunk is sure to keep you dancing. blockpartyeagle.com

Telluride Jazz Festival

Aug. 11–13, Telluride, CO

For 46 years, real sophistication has hit Colorado’s favorite festival town with jazz in the box canyon. Gregory Porter, The Soul Rebels, and Hooligans Brass Band top an impressive lineup. telluridejazz.org

Rocky Mountain Folks Festival

Aug. 11–13, Lyons, CO

Kick back creekside on the Planet Bluegrass grounds and enjoy an allstar lineup this year, including Charlie Crockett, Shovels and Rope, Katie Pruitt, and Leyla McCalla. bluegrass.com/folks

Grand Targhee Bluegrass Festival

Aug. 11–13, Grand Targhee Resort, WY

Bluegrass icons take the stage and musicians take on the role of teachers since this festival doubles as a music camp for young bluegrass hopefuls. “We look forward to rocking the Tetons with all of you again,” say organizers. grandtarghee.com/bluegrass

DOWN BY THE RIVERSIDE: A DIP IN THE ST. VRAIN IS A ROCKYGRASS RITE OF PASSAGE.

GO PLAY OUTSIDE.

There’s di erent ways to get outside, and di erent ways to get down a river. In Western Nebraska we go tanking. Bring friends, family, hell bring everyone. Just don’t forget snacks.

Go for a float down a meandering river, play on the sandbars, go play outside.

Find your next adventure in Western Nebraska. Even if that adventure is just a lazy float.

Go to Western Nebraska.

PETZL HEADLAMPS... HYBRID CONCEPT for choosing your power source. FULL-TILT lamp bodies for various wearing options.

FUNC

Aug. 13, Montrose, CO

FUNC Fest is for fun on the Uncompahgre River. Get it? This family-friendly event celebrates Montrose’s river with a full schedule of water sports competitions, live music, activities for the whole family, local vendors, a food truck village, and a beer garden! visitmontrose.com/ events/fun-on-the-uncompahgre

Telluride Mushroom Festival

Aug. 16–20, Telluride, CO

Since 1981, the Telluride Mushroom Festival has been bringing in the best mycologists to speak on psychedelic research, decriminalization, and how to cultivate your own mushrooms. tellurideinstitute.org/telluridemushroom-festival

Keystone Mountain Town Music Series

Aug. 19, Keystone, CO

The Mountain Town Music Series celebrates the sunny afternoons of summer in Keystone with outdoor concerts in River Run Village, complemented by a variety of other entertainment throughout the day. keystonefestivals.com

Dillon Open Regatta

Aug. 25–27, Dillon, CO

The Dillon Yacht Club extends a warm invitation to all sailors interested in participating in the 2023 Dillon Open Regatta, the world’s highest regatta

at 9,017 feet above sea level. Visit the website for details and to sign up. dillonopen.com

FALL AND WINTER

Four Corners Folk Festival

Sep. 1–3, Pagosa Springs, CO

Yonder Mountain String Band, Gangstagrass, Heratless Bastards— they’re all coming to this year’s fete. Spend your downtime soaking in Pagosa’s steamy pools. folkwest.com/ fourcornersfolkfestival

Seven Peaks Festival

Sep. 2–4, Villa Grove, CO

The San Luis Valley will echo with roots music: Country star Dierks Bentley, in partnership with Live Nation, will once again hold the Seven Peaks Music Festival, a multi-stage country and bluegrass extravaganza. sevenpeaksfestival.com

Keystone Oktoberfest

Sep. 2, Keystone, CO

Dig out your lederhosen and dirndls and bring the family for Keystone’s Oktoberfest. Earn your Bavarian steeze at the stein hoisting contests. keystonefestivals.com

Endless Sunshine

Sep. 8, Denver, CO

The Backseat Lovers, Peach Pit, Briston Maroney, Co-Stanza, The

Mañanas, and Blankslate all play live at Civic Center Park. denver.org

Telluride Blues and Brews

Sep. 15–17, Telluride, CO

This fall classic will feature Bonnie Raitt, The Roots, Kirk Fletcher, The Revivalists and more—oh, and plenty of hoppy refreshment. The Grand Tasting is the perfect way to cap off the entire festival season with one big, extended toast. Extend the buzz with late-night concerts throughout town. tellurideblues.com

Great American Beer Festival

Sep. 21–23 , Denver, CO

The world’s greatest gathering of brews and those who make and imbibe them goes down (where else?) in craftbeer central. With this many beers to sample you better designate a driver. greatamericanbeerfestival.com

Mountain Harvest Festival

Sep. 22–24, Paonia, CO

Tour the local wineries and farms, check out the chili cook off and lace up your boots for a full lineup of roots music at this fall shindig. The Mountain Harvest festival is presented by local non-profit North Fork Valley Creative Coalition. mountainharvestfestival.org

Albuquerque International Balloon Festival

Oct. 7–15, Albuquerque, NM

Long before Walter White (and long after), Albuquerque is best known across the planet for this hot air balloon festival. It’s a bucket list adventure—there’s nothing like taking part in the stunning “Dawn Patrol,” when balloons launch before the sun is up and you watch the spectacle from the air. balloonfiesta.com

First Friday Dia de los Muertos Celebration

November 3, Silverthorne, CO

In November, Silverthorne honors and celebrates Dia de los Muertos and the vibrant Latino community in Summit County. In partnership with local community members, the celebration will be a fun and educational event. silverthorne.org/discover-silverthorne/ public-art/first-fridays

WINTER 2024

WinterWonderGrass Colorado

Dates TBD, Steamboat Springs, CO

WinterWonderGrass (WWG) is the way to get that festy fix and ski powder in the same day. Want something in the summer? Check out RiverWonderGrass—float Dinosaur National Monument’s Gates of Lodore with WWG musicians. winterwondergrass.com

PLAY ON: KEYSTONE GETS FESTY (TOP). WINTER WONDERGRASS CHILLS (BOTTOM).

TOP TO BOTTOM: COURTESY THE KEYSTONE NEIGHBBORHOOD COMPANY, COURTESY WINTER WONDERGRASS

CREATURE COMFORTS

FESTIVAL SEASON IS HERE AND IT’S TIME TO STOCK UP ON THE GEAR THAT WILL MAKE YOUR TIME IN TENT CITY EVEN GROOVIER.

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

1. Cotopaxi Vuelta Performance Windbreaker Jacket

You don’t want to lug around a big jacket for when nights get cool during festival season. Light, easy to squash down small, and able to ward off a chill, this recycled nylon windbreaker is just the ticket. $130; cotopaxi.com

2. TVLA The Align[Mat] V1: Cork

Yoga is an integral part of so many festivals, whether in formal morning classes or just practicing with friends. Created by Colorado-based yoga teacher and frequent festival fixture Janelle Holter, TVLA’s mats provide easy-tofollow alignment guides as part of their sleek design. And the new cork mat provides plenty of traction even when you get sweaty. $108; tvlashop.com

3. Minus 33 White Mountain Woolen Camp Throw Blanket

A comfy blanket should be the first thing you pack when headed out for a weekend of music, campfires, and serial chilling. This merino snuggler gets the job done in style and gives off classic vibes. The only problem? We tend to fall asleep whenever we wrap up in this baby. $50; minus33.com

4. Runhood Rallye 600

Love it or hate it we are tied to our devices—whether we are gig economy self-starters or Instagram narcissists. But power is hard to come by when you are camped out in festival land. This modular unit is the answer for those who need to be plugged in off the grid. It offers up 648 Wh capacity, 1200W peak power, and 600W AC power that can be recharged via an AC plug at home or solar panels (sold separately). $699; runhoodpower.com

5. Solo Stove Mesa XL

This picnic-table version of the powerful Solo Stove makes any camp a little bit cozier without all the hassle and transportation logistics of a larger portable fire pit. Burn wood or pellets— it’s safe on an included stand and keeps the after-hours acoustic jam session warm into the night. $80; solostove.com

6. Peak Design Everyday Totepack

Savvy festival vets understand the importance of the perfect bag for schelpping your stuff around all day long. This baby gives you all the roomy convenience of a tote with the ability to haul it around like a backpack, making it our choice for the gear you want on hand for long sunny days away from tent city. $180; peakdesign.com

7. PurCellos 1789

Ready to sip a little something after all the shows? This fine small-batch American straight bourbon goes down just right by the campfire. It’s the brainchild of Colorado Springsbased Tomeka and Herbert Purcell, who wanted to create a sexy drink in a market where African American entrepreneurs like them represent only 1% of the bourbon distillers out there. $65; purcellos1789.com

8. Eyce Oraflex Shorty

Discrete yet popping with color, this silicone pipe holds up better to the rigors of being stuffed in your pocket or bouncing around in your gear bag than more fragile glass. Bonus: The bowl is easy to remove to clean or swap with other accessories. $25; eycemolds.com

9. How to Write One Song

Jeff Tweedy’s latest book somehow demystifies the process of writing a song while at the same time elevating it as an art form. The Wilco frontman and solo artist (who has spent time rambling the wilds with actor Nick Offerman and author George Saunders) digs into his own creative process to help you discover how you can do the same. It’s a read that’s both fun and necessary—much like so many of Tweedy’s own songs. $23; penguinrandomhouse.com

PRIVATE RADIO

HOW MEMORY GIVES US EACH A SOUNDTRACK ALL OUR OWN

by PETER KRAY

MOST OF THE BEST—AND SOME OF of the worst—moments in my life are all tied to music somehow—from that first adolescent thrill of rock and roll to the velour-smooth glide of the doo-wop my parents loved to the liberating, sexy exhibitionism of disco inviting your body to do whatever it feels good to do.

Then later on, the crying in the rain allure of all those sad songs hit me, so that long before anyone ever broke my heart, I couldn’t wait to know how incredibly good and impossibly bad being in love could make you feel.

Each genre seems to provide its own airwave I can tune to my mood—like rolling through the call letters of every Southern Colorado station spinning the dirtwise wisdom of country on the drive up from Alamosa to Leadville; or like taking in that last spring powder day in the A-Basin parking lot, when the swaying seaweed sound of The Grateful Dead seems to roll like lilting waves from every car, so that before you even load the lift, there’s that rhythm in your body.

LIVE FOR LIVE

My old college friend Chris, who lives in Connecticut and was raised in New Jersey, loves music so much he once told me, “Sometimes I have to start listening to the same song five or six times before I feel like I’m concentrating enough on hearing the first few notes.”

He posts eulogies on social media for all the sonic giants when it’s their time to ride the refrain up to the jukebox in the sky. Then he lists their greatest hits and breakthrough style (like Jerry Lee Lewis beating the keys out of his piano, “Goodness gracious great balls of fire!”) so you can go right to Soundcloud and cue up the eternal encore.

At school, he had a “Live Music is Better” sticker on his door. And even now, living so close to New York City, he’s seen more amazing shows than most—from funk to jam bands to so many legends of soul.

That sticker gets it right, too. Because if you haven’t heard a song you love live, you don’t know all the places that song can go.

I once heard Jimmy Cliff sing “Many Rivers to Cross” at Red Rocks to the accompaniment of only a piano, his voice so pure and clear in the mountain air it was like he was sharing a celestial guide to navigating the highs and lows of the world.

I’m sure it wasn’t the first time someone

had that kind of revelation at a classic Red Rocks reggae show.

IT’S THE FLOW

Every song takes you on a journey. The great ones make you feel like that journey was a road map written just for you—like “Born to Run,” “Go Your Own Way,” “Freebird,” or “American Girl.”

Like the way I remember the summer my other Connecticut buddy Billy and I spent chasing The Grateful Dead across the East Coast, from Hartford to Worcester to New Jersey’s Meadowlands, where we didn’t even have tickets but somehow found ourselves flailing to “Not Fade Away” in the 10th row.

I’d really like to be standing in the audience at a concert right now.

Despite what I wrote on these same pages 12 months ago, when the pandemic finally gave us a chance to “re-find” ourselves, I didn’t get out as much as I wanted to. The lovely red-haired girl from Cherry Creek and I still had the “willies” about being in a crowd.

Not anymore.

Now I can’t wait to be surrounded by people moving to the music and collective energy of a sound they can both hear and feel—songs to sing along to, which I can learn, or words I already know.

THE MORE YOU HEAR, THE MORE YOU FEEL

It’s been a long winter. Wonderful with

all the snow. And I’m ready to stand in the sun again, listening to music, wearing a lot less clothes.

Especially newer music, from artists and bands still growing into the bloom of their certified legend years— especially in Colorado—like Nathaniel Rateliff, Willie Nelson’s boy Lukas, Brandi Carlile, and Jason Isbell.

Even the older radio playing in my head likes to freshen up the playlist once in a while. New music, like hope, love, and—definitely—anticipation, springs eternal.

Here’s to all of us hearing some new sounds—and thinking some new thoughts—that we’ll keep rewinding for years.

Elevation Outdoors editor-at-large

Peter Kray is the author of The God of Skiing . The book has been called “thegreatest ski novel of all time.” Buy it hereand read it now: amzn.to/35Afxl

EVERY SONG TAKES YOU ON A JOURNEY. THE GREAT ONES MAKE YOU FEEL LIKE THAT JOURNEY WAS A ROAD MAP WRITTEN JUST FOR YOU.

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Rab Athlete: Nathan Hadley

Photographer: Jeremiah Watt

Location: Washington Pass, USA