Elevation Outdoors March 2016 by Summit Publishing

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2016 BEST OF THE ROCKIES

VETERANS TAKE DENALI

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REBOLTERS MAKE COLORADO CLIMBING SAFE AGAIN GET THAT OUTDOOR INDUSTRY

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CONTENTS

March 2016 N YOUR DESTINATIOHOP

BACKCOUNTRY S

LOOKING UP: SILVERTON MOUNTAIN FOUNDER AARON BRILL IS SELLING ONE POWERFUL ADDICTION AND RETHINKING THE FUTURE OF HELISKIING ALONG THE WAY. SEE PAGE 30.

DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

7 EDITOR’S LETTER

23 BEST OF THE ROCKIES

It's time to listen.

Run the course of the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc, Nepal rebuilds, spring beers, advenure in SLC and more ...

We did it. We compiled another list—but wait, this one hands out awards for the best destinations, businesses and events throughout the Rockies. And they were nominated and chosen by you, our readers.

12 FLASHPOINT

28 DREAM JOBS

Rebolters make climbing safe again.

Want to quit the cube and find a future in the outdoor industry? We give you the beta on your new career.

8 QUICK HITS

15 HOT SPOT Best peaks for the shoulder season.

30 ALASKA, BIGGER 16 THE TRAIL Download these GPS coordinates to summit California's Mount Whitney.

Silverton Mountain founders Aaron and Jenny Brill are drug dealers, and they are pushing pure powder.

19 NUMEROLOGY

34 TRAVEL GEAR

Craft brewing by the numbers.

Time to hit the road? Here's the best stuff to carry along with you.

20 STRAIGHT TALK Andrew Hamilton on his new speed record on Colorado's 54 Fourteeners.

photo above by SCOTT D W SMITH

37 HEAR THIS Trout Steak Revival goes big time.

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877.236.8428

39 THE ROAD A group of veterans battles demons on the climb up Alaska's Denali.

42 ELWAYVILLE. Peter Kray takes it to the limit in his home state.

WANT MORE? C ATC H

U P ON PAST ISSU ES, YOU R FAVORITE B LOG G E RS A N D DAILY ON LIN E-ON LY CON TEN T AT ElevationOutdoors.com COV ER PH OTO BY ERIC H A NS ON ELIS E STERC K AT TH E G R A N D C A N YON . PHOTOG RA PH ER H AN SON STA RTED AS A BAC KPAC K R EA D ER R EPORTER AT OUTDOOR RETAILER A N D IS N OW LIVI N G TH E D R EA M . YOU C A N TOO, (PG 28).

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / M A R C H 2 01 6

CONTRIBUTORS

03.16

WHAT DREAMS HAVE YOU MADE A REALITY? ElevationOutdoors.com EDITORIAL ED ITOR-IN -CH IEF

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

doug@elevationoutdoors.com

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN I get paid to write for a living!

MA N AG IN G ED ITOR

CAMERON MARTINDELL

cameron@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR ED ITOR

CHRIS KASSAR

chris@elevationoutdoors.com ASSISTAN T ED ITOR

KELLY CASSIDY

play@elevationoutdoors.com C ON TRIBUTIN G ED ITORS

AARON BIBLE, ADAM CHASE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, SONYA LOONEY, JAYME MOYE, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN ED ITOR -AT-LARG E

PETER KRAY

C ON TRIBUTIN G WRITERS

JASON BLEVINS, CATHERINE DEMURS, JEDD FERRIS, YOON KIM, ELIZABETH MILLER, SHANNON SOLLITT, AVERY STONICH

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PAIGELEE CHANCELLOR

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BEN YOUNG

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B U SIN ESS MAN AG ER

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SUMMIT

CAMERON MARTINDELL Getting to all seven continents was a childhood dream ever since I raced to grab the free map from each issue of National Geographic that showed up in our mailbox. The maps became my bedroom wallpaper.

BEN YOUNG I dreamed of writing for an outdoor magazine throughout high school. This counts, right?

YOON KIM To make enough money to support my freelance writing habit. I guess I've learned to live with less.

ELIZABETH MILLER I'd really wanted to see a river ecosystem after a dam was taken down, so I visited the Elwha River in Washington.

AVERY STONICH Becoming an outdoor and travel writer. It’s the perfect combination of all my passions. If you pursue what really makes your soul sing, you can do anything.

JASON BLEVINS My dream-cometrue refreshes every time I chase my daughters down steep tree lines at our home hill. Every. Time.

PETER KRAY

Owning a house in the mountains and living in a place that makes life fun ... for the most part.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

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SOUND OF SILENCE: COLUMBINES IN THE JAMES PEAK WILDERNESS. photo by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

LEARNING TO LISTEN

hen I worked for the U.S. Forest Service building trails and fighting wildfires, I was lucky enough to attend a Wilderness Ranger Rendezvous, a gathering of the folks who managed and worked in places where no motorized travel (and not even chainsaws) were allowed. Wilderness in this form is something uniquely American, a concept that first took hold in the 19th century when these untamed places that defined something essential and unshackled in our national consciousness were quickly being chewed up by the engines of manifest destiny. In the 20th century, legendary conservationists including Aldo Leopold and Bob Marshall would champion a legal designation that could stem the tide before the little that remained would also be gone. The notion of wilderness, of space and nature left simply to remain, always resonated with me, and I had become what I felt was a bold champion of conservation, so I was excited to be surrounded by so many others who felt called to speak for and defend wild places. One of the first wilderness experts to address us was Ed Marston, the publisher of High Country News at the time. Now, I was doubly excited since I had, and still have such a high regard for the work that HCN does. It provides a voice that is authentic to the West, that dares to prioritize conservation and environmental issues (which are often ignored by both the mainstream media and many local Western outlets for being un-sexy or politically dangerous), and, most of all, that approaches these stories with uncompromising journalistic integrity. Marston's message? He said that as conservationists and wilderness advocates, we needed to stop seeing so many ranchers and other conservative, conservation-wary locals as the enemy. He said we needed to respect their voices and viewpoints, that we needed to listen. How I hated to hear this. He was selling out. He was going to let them destroy what we were fighting to save. At the time, my passion for the cause of conservation, my sense of urgency around protecting what little remains in the natural world was so strong that I would kick down any cairn I found built by hikers in remote spots, I would preach the gospel of Ed Abbey to any who would listen, I would make the world do what was right or fight for stricter laws to make it all so. None of that jived with Marston's message. He was weak, wrong. Now, I know that he planted a seed on that day. I went on to keep fighting for wilderness and conservation and what was right, but as I did, I learned that pliancy is often more powerful than pushiness. I found out that actaully getting things done in the world required those things I dreaded—compromise, taking new tacts, and, most of all, trying to at least listen to opposing views. I mellowed (though the radical still deep within winces to admit it), and, along the way, I worked on campaigns that collaborated with Republican lawmakers in crazy-conservative Idaho, built new trails and created long-lasting protection. I saw the world of people a bit more as I had always seen the natural world, as a complex ecosystem that requires all of its components to function properly. With election year politics at a fever pitch on both the left and right, I hear so many demanding that we need to “fix our broken political system.” I agree, but I also think that the only way we can do that is by not demanding the ways we see as most right. We can only fix our broken dialog when we start to listen. M A R C H 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

QUICK HITS

03.16

RUN EVERY MOUNTAIN: THIS IS HOW YOU GET ULTRA-EURO IN STYLE. photo by KATE DESMURS

TECHNOLOGY JUST AHEAD This audio tour app puts an expert on the road with you. Using your phone’s GPS, it triggers audio messages according to your geographic location to provide info about the sites on your route. $8-$10; justahead.com

GEAR WE LOVE TITAN STRAPS Gear is unruly. While it’s great in its element, getting it to the adventure can require some containment. Titan Straps offer a bit of stretch, are practically indestructible, work in a wide range of temperatures and are simple to use. Lock it down. $8-10; titanstraps.com

BOOKS CROCODILE LOVE In Crocodile Love: Travels and Tales from an Extended Honeymoon, Joshua Berman and his new wife, Sutay, do what so many of us say we would do if we had the chance: Take off and explore the planet. The result is a travel narrative that’s insightful when it comes to love—both between two people and the global community.

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RUN THE ALPS

YOU MAY NOT BE UP FOR RACING IN THE ULTRA-TRAIL DU MONTBLANC, BUT YOU CAN STILL RUN THE COURSE AND ENJOY THE VIEW (AND OTHER FRENCH INDULGENCES) ALONG THE WAY. During downtime before dinner, 6,400 feet above the Italian village of Courmayeur, we are ensconced in a corner of the Bonatti Refuge, named for Italian climbing legend Walter Bonatti. We relax over glasses of local wine as our guest, Patagonia trail runner Chloë Lanthier, talks biomechanics and fields questions from our rambunctious, all-woman group. A majority of us hail from Colorado, and our ages range from early 30’s to 50. The atmosphere is lively and cheerful and the women probe Chloë’s deep knowledge: “How can we run faster down technical terrain?” “Is training by heart rate effective?” “What’s it like, racing in the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc?” Chloë answers honestly and simply as steaming dishes of meat, cheese, lentils and pasta appear before us. Here at Bonatti, no one goes to bed hungry. Early the next morning outside the hut, lead guide Alister Bignell shares the quote of the day, which foreshadows the climbing looming above us. The route, part of the famed Ultra-Trail du MountBlanc running race, will ascend the valley and attain our high point of the trip, 8,323-foot high Col Grand Ferret. On the other side, Switzerland’s green pastures and picture-perfect views await. Alister’s invitation to start trail running is always, “Shall we…?” Our posse of tough and cheerful women respond eagerly and slip into a rhythm along the dewy, meandering dirt path. It's a trail runner’s playground. Single track carries us past breathtaking panoramas with bucolic grazing pastures in the foreground, the rugged peaks of the Mont Blanc massif in the background. At times, the rolling terrain of Val Ferret makes trail running seem effortless. Soon, though, our heart rates climb during the steady, hour-long climb to the col and the Swiss border. It's a tough push. Running this fabled mountain route unveils a constantly changing storyline of rough stony paths, single tracks that hug the mountainside, and forests that provide escape from the sun. Village pit stops arrive in sequence: La Fouly, Champex, Trient.

Each time, we refuel, indulging in cold drinks and fresh baguettes, often with jam, butter, cheese or ham. As we near the end of their journey, we grow stronger. So much stronger, in fact, we realize we will be in Chamonix sooner than planned, so we stop for a leisurely lunch, eeking out a final Alpine view before making the winding descent into civilization. What follows is a joyous downhill to the valley floor. The excitement feels electric as our eager group of women approach the outskirts of the legendary alpine city-village of Chamonix. Within minutes, we will find ourselves at Place du Triangle, in Chamonix’s old village. Yes, our vibrant group of trail running women has completed the entire 165-kilometer route of the Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc: Chamonix back to Chamonix, ringing the massif and racking up 9,600 meters of climbing. It is, by any measure, an exceptional moment in our lives. runthealps.com —Kate Desmurs

CLIMBING BACK

ONE YEAR POST-EARTHQUAKE, NEPAL IS EAGER TO DISH UP ADVENTURE FOR VISITORS. Almost a year has passed since a devastating magnitude 7.8 earthquake struck Nepal. The Himalayan country is on the mend, however, and working hard to bring visitors back. Pre-quake, 800,000 tourists visited Nepal each year, supporting 1 million jobs and contributing $1.6 billion to the economy (8.9 percent of GDP). Officials predict that 2015 tourism visits would are down 65 percent—a hard hit to an already ailing country. Yet much of Nepal is open for business and eager for travelers to return. Go now—when sleepy streets devoid of tourist feet beckon with a magical quiet that might not last for long. Here’s how to find high adventure and help the country rebuild: DIVE INTO KATHMANDU: You have to see the organized chaos of Kathmandu to believe it—markets, traffic, temples, shrines, palaces and architectural art. Many of its UNESCO World Heritage Sites were damaged or destroyed but the city's frentic charm is no less diminished. tourismkathmandu.com

TREK IN EVEREST’S SHADOW: Fly to Lukla, then follow the sound of yak bells through the high Himalayas and stay in teahouses or lodges. Highlights include the bustling trading center of Namche Bazaar, views of Ama Dablam’s pointy peak, colorful Tengboche monastery and Everest Base Camp. Allow at least two weeks. greathimlayatrails.com DO A FLY BY: If you’re short on time and have extra cash to burn, sip champagne while jetting on a scenic flight past the world’s highest peak. yetiairlines.com

PARAGLIDE IN POKHARA: Northwest of Kathmandu, laid-back lakeside Pokhara is one of the top paragliding destinations in the world, with primo conditions year-round. aviaclubnepal.com

GO ON A MEDITATION RETREAT: Master your mind and discover deep inner peace by sinking into a seven- or 10-day Buddhist retreat at Kopan Monastery in Kathmandu. kopanmonastery.com

MOUNTAIN BIKE THE MUSTANG: Dodge donkeys while ogling 8,000-meter peaks in the high, dry Himalayas just south of Tibet. Mountain biking is quickly gaining momentum here, in what was once primarily a trekking domain. nepalbiking.com

TRACK TIGERS: Tigers are the prize, but seeing rhinos is an extra treat in Chitwan National Park, west of Kathmandu. No matter what, you’ll be wowed by the wildlife in this subtropical hotbed of biodiversity. chitwannationalpark.gov.np RAFT RAPIDS: Float for eight days and camp on white sand beaches along the San Kosi River from near the Tibetan border to the Ganges. It's one of the world’s top 10 river trips. grgadventurekayaking.com —Avery Stonich

SPRINGTIME IN A BOTTLE... OR CAN? SEEDS OF KARMA: NEPAL IS REBORN. photo ATTA / COLDER FILMS

Soon spring sunshine shall banish Old Man Winter for another year. The best way to celebrate? Hoist a cold beer. Here are four perfect brews

for this time of the year: Expo 58 is a Belgian-Style Golden Ale from the fine brewers at Ninkasi Brewing Company in Eugene, Oregon. The full-bodied flavors are perfect after a day skiing the spring corn or taking a few laps on your mountain bike. Best of all it’s only five percent ABV. New Belgium just released Citradelic Tangerine IPA which perfectly blends ten different hop varieties to create a boldly flavored, yet well balanced hop bomb that grabs your attention the moment you crack the crown. If you love IPA’s, you simply must grab this one. Since 2011, Pikes Peak Brewing has been turning out some consistently fine beers. Their Little London English Mild is a brown ale with a nice malt backbone with hints of coffee, chocolate, and biscuits. It’s the ideal beer to crack on those chilly spring nights. Finally, spring is the season of change, a time to try new things. So reach for Sierra Nevada’s Otra Vez. This Gose Style Ale is brewed with prickly pear cactus and grapefruit. Its tartness will refresh you after a day of working in the yard as you prep for summer cookouts. —Hudson Lindenberger

Jumping for joy on the summit of Red Lady above Crested Butte, CO – Xavi Fane

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QUICK HITS

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SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH

THE GATEWAY TO THE WASATCH PROVIDES A CONVENIENT PACKAGE THAT BLENDS URBAN AND OUTDOOR ADVENTURES. EAT | Need a little je ne sais quoi in your morning? For a taste of France downtown, check out Eva’s Bakery on Main Street (evasbakeryslc. com). The bread and pastries are rich, buttery and flaky—guaranteed to start your day off right. Dig into the chocolate croissant and you won’t regret it. Come lunch time, The Rose Establishment (theroseestb.com) is also located downtown and it's about as hipster as you can stomach. Shabby chic reigns here, with rough wood pillars and tables, sandwiches served on Eva’s bread and friendly bearded men in flannel and skinny jeans behind the counter. No matter your level of irnoy, the turkey on toasted walnut bread is a winner. For your evening meal, Bambara in the Hotel Monaco (monacosaltlakecity.com) provides a casual fine-dining experience with something you only find in a big city that feels like a small town: friendly servers.

the Hotel Monaco. Part of the Kimpton Hotels, you won’t be disappointed especially if you set up your trip for success by booking one of the beautiful and spacious Majestic Suites. The hotel is just a block from the Salt Palace convention center, Symphony Hall and City Creek Mall. It’s around the corner from Salt Lake’s large and modern library and an easy walk to many of the local eateries and other cultural establishments. And your animal print robes, signature of Kimpton Hotels, await in every room. Plus, they have a pet friendly policy.

PLAY | Ski season may be wrapping up, but the mountains are ever at the ready. Forty minutes from downtown, Park City (mountainbikingparkcity.

SLEEP | For the best downtown access (and sophisticated decor and service), treat yourself to

enonation.com

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / M A R C H 2 01 6

com) reconfirmed its Gold-level IMBA rating for mountain biking in 2015. From lift-access downhill and cross country trails covering the ski areas to terrain parks and pump tracks, Park City can keep any level of rider busy for days on end. Road cyclists have the opportunity to ride the 26.2 mile Salt Lake City Marathon course (saltlakecitymarathon.com) or jump on a bigger ride like the Front Runner Century 100 (frontrunnercentury.com). Family friendly activities abound right in town. Hit Utah’s Olympic Park (utaholympiclegacy.org), Discovery Gateway children’s museum (discoverygateway.org) and the Seven Peaks Waterpark (sevenpeaks.com). —Cameron Martindell

TOUCH OF CLASS: THE MONACO LOOKS SWANK—AND YOUR DOG CAN STAY HERE. photo by VISIT SALT LAKE

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BOLTS AWAY

ACROSS COLORADO, CLIMBING ORGANIZATIONS ARE TAKING THE INITIATIVE—WORKING TO STANDARDIZE REBOLTING EFFORTS AND BOLTING RULES BEFORE LAND MANAGERS HAVE TO DO IT FOR THEM. by ELIZABETH MILLER

ong before he became executive director of the Access Fund, Brady Robinson was climbing in South Dakota's Cathedral Spires and clipped a bolt likely dating from the 1940s. He tugged it twice, and the bolt pulled out in his hand. “There I was, runout on slab with no other protection in sight,” he says. “That was the first time that it really came home to me that bolts are sketchy sometimes.” Across Colorado, bolts decades younger than the one that failed on Robinson, many of them placed during the sport climbing revolution of 30 years ago, are also starting to show their age. That problem has local climbing organizations concerned, and the race is on not only to replace the corroding bolts before disaster strikes, but to stay ahead of land managers crafting standards for fixed gear. “There are tens of thousands of bolts in this country that need to be replaced,” says Loren Gwartney-

photos by CRAIG HOFFMAN

REPLACEMENT CREW: VOLUNTEERS CHRIS WEIDNER AND EVAN HOWELL RE-BOLT ROUTES IN ELDORADO CANYON.

Gibbs, a Boulder Climbing Community board member. “At least half the routes, nationally, are probably due.” A recent Boulder Climbing Community survey estimated there are 14,000 to 16,000 bolts that need to be replaced just near the city of Boulder alone. In response, the group, working alongside Action Committee for Eldorado and Front Range Climbing Stewards, has replaced more than 350 bolts in local areas including Boulder, Eldorado and Clear Creek canyons “They’re not failing with a great degree of frequency, but we’re getting to a point where it’s going to start happening,” says Robinson. “There were varying degrees of junk that was placed back then, so some of it is still good and some of it is not. The community is realizing we need to self-organize and take control of this challenge because no one else is going to. And it’s certainly in our interest to have some kind of standard and make sure that the bolts that we’re placing are going to be good for a long time and we’re not just deferring the problem.”

OUT WITH THE OLD

Decades ago, climbers often improvised using construction bolts purchased from hardware stores. Galvanized, or zinc-plated, steel and mixed-metal hanger and bolt combinations that are even more prone to corrosion were standard

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / M A R C H 2 01 6

use in the past. Stainless steel is now emerging as the best replacement, but it comes at a cost (as does the newest innovation, a bolt designed to be removed and replaced using only the hand tools legally allowed in Wilderness areas).

“Back in the old days, when everyone was a renegade and dirtbag, ‘self-regulation’ was a thing climbers said a lot of times. … But selfregulation is not going to cut it as the sport continues to grow and grow and grow.” “The guys putting up routes are trying to save money. Most of them are ignorant about the fact that these things are going to start corroding and breaking over time,” says John Byrnes, a retired engineer who’s been involved with rebolting Cayman Brac, a popular crag in the Caribbean where bolts rust even faster than in Colorado (see sidebar). “We have hundreds of thousands of zinc-plated bolts that have exceeded their lifetime. The zinc has been consumed by natural processes and now the steel underneath is being

exposed to normal rust.” That rust is likely occurring in the crevice that surrounds the bolt inside the rock, where it’s invisible to a climber going for the next clip. “Obviously, the climbing organizations know that this is a problem. Most people involved in bolting and re-bolting know,” Byrnes says. “The big issue, of course, is to try to take pro-active steps so that the bolts don’t get to the point that they’re dangerous and land managers start closing down climbing areas.” After Jefferson County Open Space’s 2015 inventory of climbing routes found the number of routes in Clear Creek had doubled over nine years, the county updated its policies on climbing and now requires an application before bolting or re-bolting routes. Only stainless steel bolts (per a standard from The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, or UIAA) are to be used, and details of placement must be reported. “[The existing] guidelines did not address the explosion of both the Front Range and the growth in climbing,” says Eric Krause, park ranger with the county, who points to impacts to parking areas and trails, as well as multiple feet of sediment lost from the base of some crags. The solution attempts to take advantage of the growth of the sport: Once approved to re-bolt, climbers can replace a bolt as soon as they spot the need. The county is even working

Eldorado Canyon State Park, through the Action Committee for Eldorado, already has a process in place for reviewing bolting and re-bolting. “The golden era of climbers being too small to really show up on the radar screen of land managers is largely behind us,” Robinson says. “Back in the old days, when everyone was a renegade and dirtbag, ‘self-regulation’ was a thing climbers said a lot of times. … But self-regulation is not going to cut it as the sport continues to grow and grow and grow.” The goal for the Access Fund is to at least weigh-in on land managers' standards (it created climbingmanagement.org as a resource), and to steer the industry toward setting a standard. To that end, the Acess Fund will host a conference in April on the future of fixed anchors. But even getting consensus among American climbing organizations and the UIAA, which disagree over the alloy that should be required, poses a challenge. Beyond the Front Range, the American Safe Climbing Association supports individuals who undertake re-bolting. “I’d fallen on some of the bolts that I pulled, and it’s like ‘that was so easy to get out, I don’t know how it held a fall,’” says Sam Feuerborn, who’s replaced 200 bolts in Western Colorado and Utah. “I think a lot of the early folks out there weren’t expecting people to come back and climb these routes, and they placed bolts just good enough to get down,” he says. “They didn’t realize that 20 years later people would be coming back and rapping off them all day.” RUSTY FAILS: YOU TRUSTED YOUR LIFE TO THESE?

—As reward for finishing her master’s in journalism years ago, Elizabeth Miller spent a winter climbing in Thailand, where she put plenty of bolts to the test.

TI THAT BINDS Corrosion notoriously eats through bolts at coastal climbing areas, in places like Thailand and Cayman Brac. In as little as nine months, bolts in Thailand have failed under no more force than human body weight. Those bolts are undermined by often-invisible stress corrosion cracking. Stress corrosion cracking has been found throughout the Caribbean, as well as in San Francisco, Hawaii and Guam, but rarely in the continental United States, thanks at least in part to a dearth of those warm limestone cliffs. Even stainless steel doesn’t hold up in tropical limestone, and so re-bolting efforts have turned to glue-in titanium bolts. The hope is that stainless steel bolts will last 50 years in landlocked states, but no one really knows. “The only bolts that will last 100 years are the titanium bolts… I will certainly be dead and gone before one of them corrodes,” says John Byrnes, a retired engineer who has replaced bolts in Cayman Brac. “If it does turn out that stainless doesn’t last 50 years, then titanium is the next obvious step to take … If you’re going to replace it, replace it once, not three times over the next 200 years.” —E.M.

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IN WITH THE NEW

As more climbers transition from gym climbing to the great outdoors, he and others argue there’s need for both a standard on gear and education. Climbers should, if not know how to bolt and rebolt properly, at least recognize suspect fixed gear and treat it to preserve it for the next generation of climbers to come.

W O M E N ’ S S AW T O O T H L O W Bdry / V I O L E T /

on getting a re-bolting kit to loan out. “We don’t want to hinder the process of replacing bad hardware,” Krause says.

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WHERE THE HIKERS ROAM: FEELING THE ATAVISTIC URGE ON BISON PEAK IN THE SUMMER.

SHOULDER-SEASON PEAKS LOOKING FOR SOMETHING TO DO IN THE HIGH COUNTRY AFTER THE LIFTS CLOSE AND BEFORE THE SINGLETRACK OPENS UP? HEAD TO THE TOP OF THESE SUMMITS. by CHRIS KASSAR

ays are getting longer, temperatures are rising and summer is in sight. If your legs are itching to get back on the trail after a big, snowy winter full of skiing and riding, rejoice! We have what you need: a roundup of our favorite shoulder season climbs: summits that are incredible in summer and even better with some snow on them. We chose these climbs because they are relatively safe and have low avalanche danger, but please check conditions at avalanche.state.co.us or summit reports at summitpost.org. Keep in mind that conditions are especially unpredictable this time of year so go prepared with gear for all variations including ice axe, crampons, snowshoes, and avalanche equipment.

HAHNS PEAK 10,389 FEET

WHAT: This cone-shaped peak offers breathtaking views of the Steamboat Lake area, town and a plethora of crystal blue alpine lakes. At 6.5 miles round-trip with a gain of 2,200 feet in winter, it’s relatively easy and a shorter time commitment than many Colorado summits. However, finding the trail in winter can be difficult and the route often requires strenuous trail breaking. Stick to the ridgeline to avoid cornices and avalanche danger until you reach the icy fire lookout perched at the top. photo by JAMES DZIEZYNSKI

WHO: Navigationally savvy adventurers seeking a beautiful, shorter climb steeped with mining history and unbelievable vistas. WHERE: From Steamboat Springs, drive to the north end of town. Turn north (right) onto CR 129, marked by a sign for Clark and Hahns Peak. Follow CR 129 for 29 miles, past the small towns of Clark and Hahns Peak to reach the tiny village of Columbine. Park at the Columbine General Store and begin your hike across the street on FS Road 490.

BISON PEAK 12,431 FEET

WHAT: A gradual 12.2-mile roundtrip adventure to a summit scattered with unique and wild rock formations. Magical rock gardens littered with enormous stone monoliths and stunning views reward those who venture to tackle this forested mountain nestled in the Lost Creek Wilderness. Southern sun exposure makes it ideal this time of year, but don’t underestimate it. Snow level can be rather low, and since you’ll be gaining over 4,000 feet, snowshoes can often be necessary at some point in the day. WHO: Those seeking solitude and an exceptional Colorado experience should head to Bison. It's one of the most unique peaks in the state. WHERE: Take Hwy 285 from Denver. Go over Kenosha Pass and

continue to the small hamlet of Jefferson. Just before Jefferson’s only convenience store, turn left onto Park County 77 (a.k.a. Tarryall Road), a paved, but rough route. After 17 miles, Tarryall Reservoir will be on your right. Continue for another 3.3 miles until you reach Ute Creek Trailhead (8,760 feet).

HUMBOLDT PEAK 14,064 FEET

WHAT: This Fourteener's East Ridge is popular since it offers the safest and shortest winter route to reach this summit nestled amidst the peaceful South Colony Lakes basin and surrounded by the jagged magnificent Crestones. Over this 13-mile roundtrip adventure, you’ll gain 5,650 feet. Follow the South Colony Road until you decide to head north for the East Ridge. This road is popular with snowmobilers, but quite often you will have to rely on navigation and trail-breaking skills since the mountain does not see a lot of action otherwise in winter. Our favorite part: the last 500 feet along the narrow summit ridge. WHO: Seasoned winter climbers with mountain sense looking to bag a Sangres de Cristo Fourteener in winter; those seeking solitude and a navigational adventure. WHERE: From Westcliffe, take CO 69 south for 4.5 miles. Turn right onto Colfax Lane toward the South Colony

Lakes Trailhead. Continue 5.5 miles to the end of Colfax. Turn right and continue one mile to a junction. This is as far as you can drive in winter.

MOUNT MASSIVE 14,421 FEET

WHAT: This 13-mile round-trip ascent on the East Ridge Route comes complete with trail breaking and a wonderful ridge walk full of striking scenery. The initial part of the route heads south from the hatchery along an often-packed road to reach the Highline Trail. At 10,960 feet, you intersect with Colorado Trail. Here, you usually have to break trail through deep powder and over rolling terrain, but once you break through treeline nature rewards you with remarkable views. Enjoy a mix of scrambling, boulder hopping and moving over wind-scoured snow and rock as you traverse the long, gradual east ridge to reach the apex. WHO: Those looking for a challenging, but rewarding climb of 5,000 feet that requires route finding and navigation over terrain that can sometimes be confusing. WHERE: From downtown Leadville, head southwest on Highway 24. After 3.6 miles, turn west (right) onto CO 300. After three miles, reach the Fish Hatchery on your left. Continue left in the Hatchery until you see the Colorado Trail and the Mount Massive Trailhead.

M A R C H 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

THE TRAIL

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THE CALIFORNIA DREAM: HIKERS MAKE THEIR WAY PAST TRAILCREST ON THEIR WAY TO 14,494 FEET.

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MOUNT WHITNEY

WANT TO STAND ATOP THE ROOF OF THE CONTINENTAL U.S.? DOWNLOAD THE FREE VIEWRANGER APP AND COORDINATES AND FOLLOW OUR LEAD TO THE TOP OF CALIFORNIA. by CHRIS KASSAR Because 14,494-foot Mt. Whitney is accessible, non-technical and stands taller than any other peak in the Lower 48, the climb is extremely popular. But, don’t underestimate the experience. The peak’s easiest route, the Mt. Whitney Trail, climbs over 6,000 vertical feet over about 11 miles, making for one big adventure for both novices and hardened peakbaggers. Here’s how to do it. TRAILHEAD

Start your hike at 8,360 feet at the Whitney Portal Trailhead, 13 miles west of the town of Lone Pine on the east side of the Sierra. Sleep at the campground so you can get an early start and drop in the Whitney Portal store for last-minute supplies or a post-climb beer and a pile of the best fries we’ve ever eaten (seriously). TRAIL JUNCTION

After climbing gradually for one mile on a well-defined, rocky trail, you’ll reach a trail marker that points toward the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. Head left, hop across the creek and continue southeast. WILDERNESS BOUNDARY

A sign heralds your entrance into the 581,000-acre John Muir Wilderness, which encompasses 100 miles of the Sierra Nevada crest. WHITNEY ZONE

Approximately 2.8 miles in, pass the turn-off photo by CHRIS KASSAR

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to Lone Pine Lake, a worthy side trip if you are taking your time and spending a few days climbing Whitney. Shortly (.2 miles) after the lake, you enter the Whitney Zone where a sign warns of special permit requirements (see below). OUTPOST CAMP

Just .8 miles later, you will descend to Outpost Camp, a beautiful meadow nestled at 10,400 feet and surrounded by imposing granite walls. If you are spending the night here, find flat, sandy established campsites at the far end of the meadow. If heading on, begin climbing the switchbacks at the edge of camp.

SUMMIT

After more than 11 grueling miles, you’ve made it to 14,494 feet—the top of the continental United States! Enjoy the view, then follow your route back down to return to the trailhead. Note: A quota system limits the number of people allowed on the trail from May to November and permits are required year-round for overnight hikers and day hikers in the Mt. Whitney Zone (www.fs.usda.gov/inyo). Reserve Wilderness permits in advance at www.recreation.gov.

TRAIL GEAR

MIRROR LAKE

Continue climbing for .2 miles and 240 vertical feet to reach a stunning view of this beautiful lake. Enjoy the scenery above treeline and fuel up, because from here on out the trail—which meanders past meadows, Consultation Lake and towering granite walls—becomes steep, rocky and curvy in spots. 7.

TRAIL CAMP

After climbing steadily over large rocky steps, you’ll arrive at Trail Camp (12,000 feet). This sleeping spot, six miles from the trailhead, is extremely busy and popular with those wishing to hit the summit in morning. From here, you’ll gain altitude quickly as you climb a series of seemingly endless switchbacks. Take your time; the 2.2-mile effort to reach Trail Crest is worth it. 8.

TRAIL CREST

This notch in the cliffs, which sits at 13,700 feet, provides astounding views of Sequoia National Park below and peaks in the distance. From here, you only have 2.5 miles and 797 vertical feet to the summit, but, due to of the altitude, it might feel longer. After Trail Crest, the trail briefly descends and undulates up and down before finally climbing to the summit.

SCARPA MORAINE PLUS GTX

Long days on rugged trails call for a lightweight, versatile shoe with ample support and protection. Thanks to a sturdy toe rand, comfy ankle collar, extra arch support, and a Gore-tex liner, this baby fits the bill. $165; scarpa.com MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR SAWHORSE CONVERTIBLE PANT

This rugged pant combines durable nylon canvas fabric in the hips and thighs with soft, comfortable chockstone fabric in the waist and legs. Bonus features include a zippered security pocket, ankle zippers for easy mid-climb changes and articulated knees. $115; mountainhardwear.com

W E

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NUMEROLOGY

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HOPPED-UP FIGURES

TAKE A DEEP DRAUGHT INTO SOME SURPRISING NUMBERS WHEN IT COMES TO THE BOOMING CRAFT BREWING INDUSTRY.

BEER SPOKE: OSKAR BLUES’ CYCLHOPS BIKE CANTINA IN LONGMONT.

945,637

by TYRA SUTAK

5,000

Number of barrels produced by New Belgium Brewing Company, Colorado’s largest craft brewery, in 2014.

The maximum number of barrels a brewery can produce each year to be considered a microbrewery.

2014

The year an operating draft beer system was installed at the governor’s mansion in Colorado. Gov. John Hickenlooper co-founded the Wynkoop Brewing Company in Denver in the late 80s before entering into a career in politics. The mansion’s draft system features three rotating draft lines of craft beers brewed in the state of Colorado.

1829

The year the oldest operating brewery in the United States was founded. Yuengling Brewery opened its doors on this year in Pottsville, Pennsylvania, where it continues to brew and bottle beer.

The number of bike shop/beer bars operating in the state of Colorado. Fans of two-wheel transportation and craft beer can get a tune-up, buy new gear and enjoy a pint, all at the same time at the CyclHOPS Bike Cantina in Longmont, The Denver Bicycle Cafe in Denver and the Road 34 Deli & Tavern in Fort Collins.

1 billion The amount in dollars that alcoholic beverage conglomerate Constellation Brands paid for San Diego’s Ballast Point Brewery for in 2015.

The number of categories of beer judged at the Great American Beer Festival in 2015.

$55.7 billion The economic impact the Craft Brewing Industry contributed to the U.S. economy in 2014.

4,200 According to the Boulder-based Brewers Association, this is the estimated number of craft breweries that are currently operating in the United States.

The cut-off percentage of Alcohol By Volume (ABV) for “Session” beers—a trend in craft beer that emerged in recent years and is expected to continue on through 2016. “Session" beers are low in ABV, allowing the consumer to drink multiple within a reasonable time period or session. (See Eddyline’s 4.5-percent-ABV Boater Beer.) M A R C H 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

STRAIGHT TALK

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ANDREW HAMILTON

THIS FATHER OF FOUR BROKE THE SPEED RECORD FOR CLIMBING ALL 54 OF COLORADO’S FOURTEENERS. HERE’S HOW HE DID IT. by KELLY CASSIDY

ast summer, Andrew Hamilton set out to conquer what seemed to be impossible. In nine days, 21 hours and 51 minutes, the father of four successfully climbed all of Colorado’s 54 Fourteeners and established a record that made jaws drop. We sat down with the Golden resident (and now national legend) to find out what makes him tick, what it took to gut out the record and to learn about his plans for the future.

WHAT DROVE YOU TO KEEP GOING, DESPITE ALL THE CHALLENGES YOU FACED DURING THE ATTEMPT? Going into something like this you know it isn’t going to be easy. You know things are going to happen that you just can’t prepare for. In fact, I was always well aware that one unlucky step could cause an injury and the attempt would be over, just like that. That happened in 2014, I was on day eight and moving pretty well. All of a sudden, I developed an injury that I just couldn’t overcome. You know, in the grand scheme of things, this record is completely unimportant, so it's not worth risking life or limb. As many people say, the mountains aren’t going anywhere (well, not quickly anyway). But despite all that, there is a pretty strong instinct I feel that makes me want to overcome the challenges and do everything in my power to achieve the goal. Having so many people following along adds a little bit of pressure too, you don’t want to fail in front of your friends and family, or in front of thousands of people who are following your every step. And it's fun for me. I just like to do it. WHAT WAS YOUR BIGGEST “OH SHIT!” MOMENT? There were more than a few…close lightning strikes, injuries, lots of stuff like that. One that really stuck 20

out was when I was coming down off Mount Lindsey in the rain on day three. I was ahead of schedule and was actually a little annoyed when I arrived at the trailhead and my support crew was not there. So far that day I had climbed across the Little Bear–Blanca traverse, one of the most exposed ridges you can imagine, I had downclimbed the Gash Ridge of Blanca, a pretty technical undertaking that in itself is a good challenge, taken cover from a nasty hailstorm, braved the terrifying buzzing sound in the air that portends an impending lightning strike and raced down the mountain in pouring rain trying to gain a few minutes here and there. Somehow, despite all that, I was ahead of my planned schedule. So then here I am at the Lindsey

able to run down the road for a couple of miles past all the mudslides and meet up with my sister in another vehicle. At the time, we just left my wife and Kyle stranded up the road with the other vehicles. That road to Lindsey is still closed and you can no longer get all the way up to the Lindsey trailhead. IN WHAT WAYS DID YOUR KIDS INSPIRE YOU DURING YOUR ATTEMPT? To tell you the truth, getting out and climbing peaks and hiking with my kids and overcoming their emotional rollercoasters can be just as challenging as trying to climb all the Fourteeners in under ten days. There was definitely something in me that wanted to do something

DARK BEFORE DAWN: HAMILTON HAD TO KEEP PUSHING ON, DAY AND NIGHT, TO SET THE BLISTERING FOURTEENERS RECORD. photo by JAMES SIMS

trailhead standing in the pouring rain wondering what could have happened to my crew. Well, Kyle and Andrea show up a few minutes later and Kyle mentioned having some difficulty with some muddy spots, despite driving his awesome 4Runner with huge clearance and large tires. He drove down the road and we joined up with my wife who was driving our van, but then as we tried to continue we had to stop: During the time they had driven up the road and picked me up and come back, mudslides had taken out the road. We were trapped! My first thought was that the attempt was over. In the end, it only cost a couple of hours as Andrea and I were

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where one day the kids would be able to look back and be proud of what we accomplished. I also carried a little glass jewel with a picture of my daughter on it with me the entire time. I would often stop and look at the picture, give it a kiss and move on. Going ten days as hard as you can on very little sleep is tough, and often I would just out of the blue get very emotional and it was nice to have that picture to look at. WHICH 14ER IS YOUR FAVORITE AND WHY? That’s always been a tough question for me to answer. I can’t really name one favorite, but instead I can

name a group of 14ers that I like the best. Oddly enough, I think the Fourteeners that I like the best are the same ones that I liked the least on the record trip—the more technical ones that require scrambling on class 3 and 4 rock. I love Capitol, Little Bear, the Crestones, the Maroon Bells, Longs, all the more challenging, technical ones. But during the record there was always a huge sense of relief when I had each of those in my rear view mirror. I think I just enjoy them under normal circumstances because I like to be scrambling around on rocks and having to think about the route more than lugging my body up a big slog of a well-worn trail. CAN YOU DESCRIBE THE RESPECT YOU HAVE FOR THE MOUNTAINS, SPECIFICALLY COLORADO’S FOURTEENERS? I do have a lot of respect for the mountains. In fact, I find it almost offensive when I hear people use the term “peak-bagging,” or suggest they have “bagged” a peak. Any of these mountains, under the right or wrong conditions can be extremely dangerous. And strangely enough, the two peaks on this attempt I had the most difficulty with (Quandary and Holy Cross) are not peaks that you would expect to be the difficult ones. So if you make it up and down any of these mountains in one piece, I think you should thank your lucky stars that the mountain was in a good mood that day. Back in 1999 when I first attempted this record, I was a little more careless and cocky on dangerous mountain terrain until I ran across a fallen climber. The image of his body lying broken on the rocks is a memory that was burned into my mind and hasn’t left me since. I don’t think I have ever really been the same in the mountains, and although my actions in these record attempts may seem reckless to some people, I always make sure to proceed with a very healthy amount of caution whenever I am out in a potentially dangerous position. ANY BIG PLANS FOR THE SUMMER OF 2016? I am planning on hiking some of Colorado’s high Thirteeners (known as Centennials) with the kids, and maybe a trip to California to see their Fourteeners. The last two years, I have been kind of selfish and gone for the record, this year will be devoted to the family.

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FOR THE ROCK.

Scott Bennett | West Overhang - 5.11a | 39°57’00.1”N 105°17’13.9”W

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GO OUTSIDE AND PLAY

DID YOU GET THE MEMO? DAYS LIKE THIS IN THE OFFICE PUT CARBONDALE, COLORADO’S BACKBONE MEDIA TO THE TOP OF OUR READERS' CHOICES FOR THE BEST OUTDOOR-BASED COMPANY TO WORK FOR.

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photo by PENN NEWHARD

Best Rockies OF THE

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Oh how magazines love to come up with big lists to let you in on the “best” of everything out there—and we are no exception. The difference? Well, when we came up with our sure-to-be-clickbait rundown of the best of the outdoors in the Rocky Mountains, we made sure it was our readers nominating and then voting for the winners (it's an election year after all). So here they are, the democratically elected people’s choices for the Best of the Rockies. Dig in. Enjoy. Get outside and play. by KELLY CASSIDY AND DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

DESTINATIONS BEST HIKING TRAIL

Four Passes Loop, Aspen, Colorado RUNNER UP: TETON CREST, WYOMING

22.8-mile leg of the 486-mile epic stands out as a highlight for thru hikers or just as a day trip or backpack all on its own.

Racking up 26 miles in the heart of Aspen's Maroon Bells, this classic twoto-four-day backpacking loop is one of the best hikes anywhere.

BEST RUNNING TRAIL

BEST COLORADO TRAIL SECTION

It's no surprise that the winner here came from Boulder, where running is a requirement for residency. But honestly, it does not get much better than a 13.4-mile round-trip jog (oh, excuse us, training session) on the Mesa Trail, which offers a perfect mix of up and down and big views along the base of the famed Flatirons. Dogs

Segment 13 Silver Creek Trailhead to Chalk Creek Trailhead RUNNER UP: SEGMENT 25

Touring 19 of Colorado's Fourteeners in the San Isabel National Forest, this

Mesa Trail, Boulder, Colorado RUNNER UP: SNODGRASS, CRESTED BUTTE, COLORADO

are allowed, too (but need to be on leash, so be aware).

BEST WHITEWATER RUN

Browns Canyon, Arkansas River, Colorado

RUNNER UP: WESTWATER CANYON, UTAH

There's a lot of worthy whitewater in the West, but class III–IV Browns Canyon rose to the top in our poll mostly because of the vocal local community who helped convince President Obama to create a brandnew national monument around the place last year.

BEST CLIMBING CRAG

Eldorado Canyon, Colorado RUNNER UP: TEN SLEEP, WYOMING

It's not just that the climbing in Eldo is so sublime that it attracts rock jocks

from across the globe; it's about the community that has grown up around this charmed spot. From the early days, when Layton Kor first started putting up routes here, to the current flood of gym-trained Millenials, climbers come here both to try classics like The Yellow Spur (5.9) and The Naked Edge (5.11a/b) and to find likeminded partners.

BEST CLIMBING ROUTE (SPORT)

Animal Instinct, Boulder Canyon, Colorado

RUNNER UP: PUMP-O-RAMA, RIFLE, COLORADO

This one-pitch 5.12c is a must-do if you want to show off your stuff in the Boulder Bubble. Plus, it gets lots of sun, making it nice in winter and late in the day.

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BEST CLIMBING ROUTE (TRAD)

Casual Route, Longs Peak, Colorado RUNNER UP: EXUM RIDGE, GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, WYOMING

Rated at 5.10a, the 1,700-foot Casual Route is the easiest way up Longs' Diamond, and it's truly a premier big alpine climb, right in Denver's backyard.

BEST BOULDER PROBLEM

Biggest Tits in Country Music, Vedauwoo, Wyoming RUNNERS UP: THE KIND, ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK, COLORADO; MONKEY TRAVERSE, BOULDER, COLORADO

Who can resist, right? Vedauwoo's favorite V3 is a roof-crack boulder problem that will have your chest, well, um, heaving.

BEST MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAIL

Monarch Crest Trail, Salida, Colorado

RUNNERS UP: CAPTAIN AHAB, MOAB, UTAH; 401, CRESTED BUTTE, COLORADO; MARY'S LOOP, FRUITA, COLORADO

Sure, there may be better sections of pure singletrack and rides with more tehcnical fun, but the 14.1-mile Monarch Crest offers up the whole package with neverending views and a highpoint at 11,962 feet. Be prepared for burning lungs and white knuckles on the ripping downhill.

BEST ROAD BIKE RIDE

Colorado National Monument, Colorado RUNNER UP: INDEPENDENCE PASS, COLORADO

Who would have thought that the Rockies' best road ride is in the desert? It makes perfect sense when you consider that this 23-mile loop through Colorado National Monument takes cyclists way above the red rock and is rideable all year long.

BEST INBOUNDS SKI/ SNOWBOARD TERRAIN

Back Bowls, Vail, Colorado

BEST FLY FISHING RIVER

Wind River, Wyoming

BEST PLACE FOR OUTDOOR SINGLES TO LIVE

Boulder, Colorado

RUNNER UP: HIGHLANDS BOWL, ASPEN HIGHLANDS, COLORADO

RUNNERS UP: TAYLOR FORK, COLORADO; ROARING FORK, COLORADO; MADISON, MONTANA

Each one of Vail's legendary Back Bowls could be a ski area all on its own in some places. And no matter the weather, you are sure to find something to suit your fancy in the 3,000 acres that include Blue Sky Basin and all its good.

Considering all the iconic trout streams in the West, this was a bit of a surprise. But it shouldn't be. With its waters coming from the glaciers of the high Wind River Range, this stream regularly rewards anglers with 20-plus-inch rainbows and browns.

BEST TERRAIN PARK

BEST WILDERNESS AREA

Indian Peaks, Colorado

BEST PLACE TO ENGAGE IN ILLICIT AND NEFARIOUS ACTIVITIES

RUNNER UP: WINTER PARK, COLORADO

RUNNERS UP: FRANK CHURCH-RIVER OF NO RETURN, IDAHO; HOLY CROSS, COLORADO

RUNNER UP: SUMMIT COUNTY, COLORADO

Breckenridge, Colorado It's hard to argue with Breck's prominence with those who want to go big and show off. You'll find local Olympians like Bobby Brown getting after it here in the Freeway park, but Trygve’s is ideal for little rippers, too.

BEST BACKCOUNTRY STASH

“Not Telling” Duh.

RUNNERS UP: MONARCH PASS, COLORADO; TETON PASS, WYOMING

BEST SUP SPOT

Salida, Colorado

RUNNER UP: GLENWOOD CANYON, COLORADO

In just a few years, SUP has become the king of paddlesports. And here in Salida on the Arkansas River, standuppers can take part in every aspect of the sport: attacking the whitewater course, chilling on slow water and heading out on long, downriver adventures. Or just play a bit and enjoy a beer by the river right in town.

BEST SKI/SNOWBOARD RESORT

The high peaks closest to Boulder and environs can certainly get crowded, but there's also enough room to get lost in these 76,711 untrammeled acres.

BEST KID-FRIENDLY OUTDOOR DESTINATION

Glenwood Caverns and Adventure Park, Colorado

RUNNER UP: SNOW MOUNTAIN RANCH YMCA OF THE ROCKIES, COLORADO

The munchkins get the best of both worlds here: Find natural adventure with a tour deep into Fairy Cave and then ride the 3,400-foot alpine coaster.

BEST DOG-FRIENDLY OUTDOOR DESTINATION

Crested Butte, Colorado

RUNNER UP: BUENA VISTA, COLORADO

The Butte's a real mountain town, which means the petty tyrants don't try to keep you and your best friend from having fun. Most lodgings in town are pet friendly.

SIZE MATTERS: STEAMBOAT, COLORADO’S BIG AGNES WAS A TOAST ABOVE THE REST WHEN IT CAME TO READERS’ CHOICE FOR BEST OUTDOOR GEAR BRAND.

RUNNER UP: DENVER, COLORADO

Do singles in Boulder just love the outdoors or do they take to the outdoors just to find love? Either way, it's the ideal spot for a date. Impress each other climbing at Movement gym and then head to a spot like Zeal for foodie-centric eats and drinks.

Leadville, Colorado You didn't hear it here.

BEST PLACE TO RAISE AN OUTDOOR FAMILY

Steamboat Springs, Colorado RUNNER UP: SHERIDAN, WYOMING

Want your kids to grow up to rip? Move to Steamboat Springs, home to a record 88 U.S. Winter Olympians and the roost of choice for Eugene Buchanan, author of Outdoor Parents, Outdoor Kids.

BEST LUXURY DESTINATION

The Little Nell, Aspen, Colorado RUNNER UP: THE RITZ CARLTON, BACHELOR GULCH, COLORADO

Beyond the world-class service and food, the legendary slopeside digs offer amazing programs that range from stargazing hikes to clinics with Chris Davenport.

BEST ZIP LINE

Cliffside Zipline, Idaho Springs, Colorado RUNNER UP: DEVILS THUMB RANCH, COLORADO

There are six different lines to play on here, which is a blast, but the fun in between rides includes a "bridge of doom," 50-foot cliffside freefall and a "surf" zip.

Crested Butte, Colorado

RUNNERS UP: JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING; SNOWBIRD/ALTA, UTAH; ARAPAHOE BASIN, COLORADO

It may not claim the most vertical, the most terrain or the most snow, but all those superlatives don't mean much when it comes to what really matters when it comes to skiing and snowboarding—soul. Crested Butte can't be beat when you consider the vibe, from the core intensity of its extreme terrain and contests to the still-an-actual-town charm of downtown. Check out the new Teocalli 2 Bowl this year (see the October, 2015 issue of EO).

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photo by DEVON BALET

Best Rockies OF THE

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Best Rockies OF THE

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BUSINESSES BEST OUTDOOR GEAR BRAND

Big Agnes, Steamboat Springs, Colorado RUNNERS UP: VOORMI, PAGOSA SPRINGS, COLORADO; GREEN GURU GEAR, BOULDER, COLORADO

Big Agnes co-founder Bill Gamber is not some slick executive looking to put ads in the Super Bowl. The man will hammer you on Steamboat's singletrack and the brand reflects that love-to-live-in-my-mountain-town mentality he espouses. Big Agnes found a sweet spot with smart tents for both car camping and ultra-light fastpacking missions, and has recently been producing some of our favorite insulated jackets for winter. Plus, it supports nonprofits like the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, She Jumps and Leave No Trace.

BEST OUTDOOR STARTUP

Gociety, Denver, Colorado

RUNNER UP: MOUNTAIN STANDARD, BOULDER, COLORADO

It makes sense that a company whose mission is to connect likeminded people who want to play in the outdoors would win our online-based poll. Gociety lets you follow along when other folks get out in the wild or post your own adventures. That's spreading the love.

SWEEPERLAND: NEDERLANDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SALTO AND TIN SHED SPORTS WALKED AWAY WITH THE HARDWEAR FOR BEST RESTAURANT, BEST COFFEE SHOP AND BEST BIKE RETAIL SHOP. photo by SALTO

Backbone for the job as well as the policies that encourage serious adventure time as part of the job.

BEST OUTDOOR RETAIL SHOP

BEST JOB TITLE

Bentgate Mountaineering, Golden, Colorado

RUNNER UP: GAPER PATROL

RUNNER UP: NEPTUNE MOUNTAINEERING, BOULDER, COLORADO

Gear Tester

Oh, you like our lives, do you, readers? Because this is what we do. We get people to send us gear and then we play hard in it and tell you all about it. Let us know if you would like to join in and add this illustrious title to your resume (go to ElevationOutdoors.com).

BEST YOGA STUDIO

Tadasana Mountain Yoga, Nederland, Colorado RUNNER UP: COREPOWER YOGA

Our readers rejected all those fancy, tight-butt studios and chose this local favorite which offers classes in a wide range of styles as well as massage and life coaching.

BEST OUTDOOR-BASED COMPANY TO WORK FOR

Backbone Media, Carbondale and Denver, Colorado, and Jackson, Wyoming RUNNER UP: COLORADO WILDERNESS RIDES AND GUIDES

Founders Penn Newhard and Nate Simmons love to play as much as they love to slay the world of public relations and media. No surprise they recruit top talent who choose

To survive in the wild West of retail these days, a local shop needs to make itself an essential part of the community. Bentgate has done that and more, offering up classes, training sessions and quick service as well as sales staff who want to get out on the crags and trails both to have fun and to learn about the gear they are peddling. That experience keeps customers coming back.

BEST BIKE RETAIL SHOP

Tin Shed Sports, Nederland, Colorado RUNNER UP: ABSOLUTE BIKES, SALIDA, COLORADO

You are just as likely to see Tin Shed head honcho Josh Harrod out on the trails as you are to see him manning the store. That type of passion makes for a shop our readers trust.

BEST CLIMBING GUIDE SERVICE

Pikes Peak Alpine School, Colorado Springs, Colorado RUNNER UP: COLORADO MOUNTAIN SCHOOL, BOULDER, COLORADO

Local outfitter Pikes Peak Alpine School holds the only year-round

permit to get out on the rock, snow and ice of Pikes Peak. Plus, they focus on avalanche education and learning mountain judgment.

BEST HIKING GUIDE SERVICE

Highline Running Adventures, Ridgway, Colorado RUNNER UP: IRWIN GUIDES, CRESTED BUTTE, COLORADO

Don't just hike, run the San Juans!

BEST WHITEWATER GUIDE SERVICE

Rocky Mountain Outdoor Center, Salida, Colorado

RUNNER UP: 4 CORNERS WHITEWATER, DURANGO, COLORADO

It's no surprise that the outfitter who won this category operates on the same stretch of river that won best whitewater in this poll. But these guys are far more than a bunch of river rats who will drag you through the rapids. They also offer a kayaking school so you can learn how to navigate that water on your own.

BEST BIKE GUIDE SERVICE

At Your Pace Freestyle Cycling, Loveland, Colorado RUNNER UP: COLORADO WILDERNESS RIDES AND GUIDES

At Your Pace does just that, offering self-guided tours in Colorado and Arizona that eschew the drag of a big group that often feels more like a class trip than an adventure. (continued)

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BEST ENVIRONMENTAL NONPROFIT

Idaho Conservation League, Boise, Idaho RUNNER UP: LEAVE NO TRACE, BOULDER, COLORADO

The true mark of a nonprofit with a focus on conservation is if it can negotiate protection that makes both Democrats and Republicans happy. Idaho Conservation League did just that last year when it helped shepherd in a new 275,000-acre BoulderWhite Clouds wilderness in Idaho via Republican Representative Mike Simpson and Senator Jim Risch. The group, which runs a community retreat at Redfeather Lake every year, spent time with Simpson out in the proposed area, so that the congressman felt it really had to be protected. Finding that type of common ground out in the mountains is something we would like to see a lot more of in Washington.

BEST BREWERY

Elevation Beer Co., Poncha Springs, Colorado RUNNER UP: UPSLOPE, BOULDER, COLORADO

This was the hardest-fought category in our poll, but Elevation (hey, we like that name) came out on top. The beer—try the 7437 Double IPA—is the main draw here, but the location near Monarch Pass and deck with big views of the Sawatch help, too.

BEST WINERY

The Infinite Monkey Theorem, Denver, Colorado RUNNER UP: TWO RIVERS WINERY, GRAND JUNCTION, COLORADO

There may be a plethora of great wineries out on Colorado's West Slope, but these simian oenophiles based in Denver's oh-so-urban Rino district blew away the competition. The vinters haul in their grapes from the Western

MATING CALLS: THERE’S NO BETTER PLACE TO GET YOUR APRÈS ON THAN THE MANGY MOOSE. (INSET) WALK ON WATER: EVERYTHING IS SUP AT THE BEST PADDLING EVENT, THE GOLDEN GAMES. photos by MANGY MOOSE (LEFT), GOLDEN GAMES (RIGHT)

Slope and other locales and make it right in the city (show up on the first Friday of the month when the winery is open to the public). Infinite Monkey can be found at stores and drinking establishments throughout the state, but the best place to enjoy it is out on the deck at the winery on a Saturday summer night when bands play and you can enjoy some post-outdoor-play grape juice.

BEST RESTAURANT

Salto Coffee Works, Nederland, Colorado RUNNER UP: THE SHED, SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO

The key to any good eatery: location, location, location. Salto certainly has that in spades, nestled into the funk of Nederland with rollicking singletrack, Eldora Mountain Resort and the Indian Peaks Wilderness right out the door. It also serves up delicious food such as a griddled brie plate with charred scallion, honey and crostini.

BEST VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT

Rootz, Steamboat Springs, Colorado RUNNER UP: LEAF, BOULDER, COLORADO

You could go all Food Nework with your vegetarian fare or dig in to an oldschool, comfy spot like Rootz, where you can buy local art or a mala, as well as enjoy smoothies and meat-free food such as the Lomi Lomi bowl.

BEST FARM-TO-TABLE RESTAURANT

Black Cat, Boulder, Colorado RUNNER UP: AJAX TAVERN, ASPEN, COLORADO

The best farm-to-table eateries need to represent a connection to the soil of the local community as much as they must offer up one of the best menus in town. Black Cat does both, with a farm that is currently experimenting with vermiculture as well as a menu that changes every day and a booth at the Boulder Farmers' Market. Oh, and be sure to try a craft cocktail like the Hairless Ape.

BEST APRÈS SPOT

Mangy Moose, Jackson, Wyoming RUNNER UP: DILLON DAM BREWERY, DILLON, COLORADO

Really this is a no-brianer for anyone who has ever skied at Jackson Hole. The Moose is no fru-fru spot for mixology, but it's also far more than a dive bar. Simply put, it is a vortex of true ski and snowboard culture. At least that's what the guy doing Jägerbombs next to us said.

BEST COFFEE SHOP

Salto Coffee Works, Nederland, Colorado RUNNER UP: OZO, BOULDER, COLORADO

Yep, Salto became the only nominee to take two categories in our poll.

BEST DISPENSARY

Terrapin Care Station, Denver and Boulder, Colorado RUNNER UP: THE FARM, BOULDER, COLORADO

Best Rockies OF THE

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Terrapin is taking the cannibis experience a step, well, higher. You can shop for just the right bud, but you can also join a community that is advocating for smart, enjoyable use of weed and edibles.

EVENTS BEST RUNNING EVENT

Ned Ned, Nederland, Colorado RUNNER UP: STEAMBOAT SPRINGS RUNNING SERIES

Nederland says, “Keep your Bolder Boulder. We have our half-marathon and 5K with costumes and dogs encouraged.” This is Ned.

BEST ROAD BIKE EVENT

USA Pro Cycling Challenge, Colorado RUNNER UP: SALIDA CLASSIC, SALIDA, COLORADO

The bad news? It ain't going to happen this year. The good? New owners promise that the best road stage race in North America will return in 2017.

BEST MOUNTAIN BIKE EVENT

Grand Junction Off-Road, Grand Junction, Colorado RUNNER UP: BRECK EPIC, BRECKENRIDGE, COLORADO

Dig into the 15-, 30- or 40-mile courses in GJ's classic red-rock backcountry.

BEST CYCLOCROSS RACE

BEST MUD RUN/OBSTACLE COURSE RACE

ROWDIEST OUTDOOR EVENT

RUNNER UP: URBAN ASSAULT, DENVER, COLORADO

RUNNER UP: DIVA DASH, COPPER MOUNTAIN, COLORADO

RUNNER UP: TESTICLE FESTIVAL, ROCK

These core 50K and 100K races sponsored by Oskar Blues bring out the folks who truly like biking to be “to the pain.”

Want to dive into dumpsters, climb rubber ladders and deal with a "surprise event"? This 5K for adults and 1K for kids will make you feel like something between a commando and a reality TV star.

Deceased grandpa Bredo Morstoe is chilling out in dry ice and the living are celebrating with coffin races, a salmon toss, 30 live bands and a new free bus from Boulder.

Old Man Winter Adventure Bike Rally and Run, Lyons, Colorado

BEST PADDLING EVENT

Golden Games, Golden, Colorado

RUNNER UP: FIBARK, SALIDA, COLORADO

Held in the end of May, these lowkey games focus on river sports and include events like a screaming quarter-mile kayak race, SUP yoga, a Rocky Mountain luau and a fly-fishing contest.

BEST TRIATHLON

Frisco Triathlon, Frisco, Colorado RUNNER UP: CURT GOWDY TENDERFOOT, CHEYENNE, WYOMING

It's simple. Summit County is home to people who like to crush. Can you beat them? Are you one of them?

Hard as Nails Obstacle Run, Westminster, Colorado

Frozen Dead Guy Days, Nederland, CO CREEK, MONTANA

BEST MUSIC FESTIVAL

Four Corners Folk Music Festival, Pagosa Springs, Colorado

RUNNER UP: TELLURIDE BLUEGRASS

This rootsy happening beat out so many bigger festivals to take first place in our readers' hearts. Credit the dedication to authentic music including Trout Steak Revival (see page 37) and a killer location.

BEST COSTUMED EVENT

Steamboat Springs Mustache Ride, Colorado RUNNER UP: FIBARK HOOLIGAN RACE

Benefiting the Routt County Humane Society, this ride/pub crawl gets hairy.

TOUGHEST RACE OR EVENT

Hardrock 100, Silverton, Ouray and Telluride, Colorado RUNNER UP: GRAND TRAVERSE, CRESTED BUTTE TO ASPEN, COLORADO

It's hard to argue with the Hardrock taking this title. The 100-mile race climbs 33,992 vertical feet and requires its lucky (?) lotterywinner participants to make use of mountaineering and survival skills to endure in OF THE the peaks of the San 2 0 16 Juans.

Best Rockies

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THE

M A E DR

Want to find that dream job in the outdoor industry? We ran down the numbers and all the angles to come up with a definitive list of what work is out there, what it pays and how you can make it all happen. by YOON KIM AND SHANNON SOLLITT

ROCKIN’ ON: MIKE DONOHUE, CO-OWNER OF OUTDOOR RETAILER GEARX.COM BOULDERS IN UTAH’S HIGH UINTAS. THE CAREER PATH HAS KEPT HIM ON THE ROCK TO BETTER UNDERSTAND HIS CUSTOMERS’ NEEDS.

h, the outdoor industry, where beer is consumed after all outdoorsy activities and employees are encouraged to call in on powder days. The perks of outdoor jobs do come at a cost (usually in the form of smaller paychecks) but the higher you climb, the more lucrative, and exciting, the work gets. Even the Yvon Chouinards and Doug Tompkins of the world had to start somewhere; so can you. Here’s where.

Inside Jobs

There’s nothing wrong with wanting to work inside for a job that gets you photo by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

outside. Especially when the gig also grants you deals and quick access to new outdoorsy products.

perk—you can always make time for your next adventure.

ready to put in heavy hours during the holidays when gear manufacturers do the bulk of their sales.

GEAR SHOP EMPLOYEE

INTERNALLY AT A BRAND OR MASS RETAILER

AGENCY/SALES REPS

EXPECTED PAY: $8 - $15/HOUR WHO STARTED HERE: Jim Whittaker,

EXPECTED PAY: $20K - $100K+ WHO STARTED HERE: Doug

EXPECTED PAY: $20K - $175K WHO STARTED HERE: Jeremy Collins,

first full timer at REI, who later became the first American to summit Everest.

Tompkins, borrowed $5,000 from a bank to start The North Face.

artist, founder of The Meridian Line.

Retail jobs belong somewhere on the bottom of the work pyramid, especially in the beginning. Making minimum wage selling gear you can’t afford to people who don’t know how to use it can feel soul-crushing at times. But the exclusive access to brands and gear is sure to pay off one day. Flexible hours are another retail

There are many ways to break into a position at an outdoor gear company. You can move sideways from outside the industry, diagonally if you already have a skillset or from the bottom (which usually means starting as an intern) or at the top by founding your own company. While most outdoor brands promote work/life balance, be

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Outdoor companies often outsource parts of their business, including marketing, distribution and design of the actual products. Outsourcing presents opportunities for artists, creatives, and sales agents. The main difference between working internally for a brand and working for an agency is that agencies work with multiple brands.

Outside Jobs

Dedication, perseverance and an innate sense of adventure are some of the qualifications for work at a job that keeps you outside. But keep in mind, these aren’t the kinds of jobs that build retirement funds.

PROFESSIONAL ATHLETE EXPECTED PAY: $10K - $70K WHO STARTED HERE: Jim Holland, Co-founder of Backcountry.com, Olympic ski jumper in the 90’s.

In outdoor sports, being a professional athlete is less of a living than it is a lifestyle. All too often, athletes make just enough to fund their next trip. Just as often, they lose money on trips. Film athletes pay for the trips that they go on, depending on sponsorships from brands. Competition prizes for big-mountain skiers range from a couple hundred to many thousands of dollars. Professional athleticism often bleeds into guiding, film-making/media production and other more stable and lucrative positions.

GUIDE EXPECTED PAY: $15/HOUR - UP TO $100K WHO STARTED HERE: Kevin Fedarko, author of The Emerald Mile, worked as a river guide in the Grand Canyon as a prelude to writing the book.

Guiding is a great way to get outdoors all the time and meet all sorts of interesting people along the way—but you need the skills first. Jobs on the river are often the easiest to break into since training only takes a few days/weeks. Beginner guides should be prepared to scrape by for a few years. But once you make your way up and start working for top tier companies such as Exum or RMI, you can earn upwards of $500 per day before tips. Unpredictable weather conditions and other natural factors make guiding less reliable than a regular 9-5, however.

RECREATIONAL PROTECTIVE SERVICE (Ski Patrol/Lifties/Ropes Course Facilitator) EXPECTED PAY: MINIMUM WAGE - $30K WHO STARTED HERE: Mark Udall, former Colorado Senator, started as a course instructor for Outward Bound.

Ski patroller and other Recreational Protective Service (RPS) jobs are among the lowest paying in the country, especially considering the

THE ULTIMATE JOB BOARD

#VANLIFE JOE: FORMER REI EMPLOYEES STEPHEN AND SUSANN PAIGE SLING JAVA. photo by STEPHEN PAIGE

certifications and training required. And expect low hourly wages as well as seasonal work. But for many, low wages are trade enough for the opportunity to follow a passion. Perhaps the only way to sustain an adventurous lifestyle as an RPS worker is to have another job.

A Little Bit of Both A healthy balance of fresh air and screen time is perhaps the biggest draw to these types of jobs. Most require expertise in a specific field, but, as with anything, also have access points for beginners.

SCIENTIST/ CONSERVATIONIST EXPECTED PAY: $60K - $120K WHO STARTED HERE: Sally Jewell, petroleum engineer who became CEO of REI, now Secretary of the Interior.

Whether you’re using geology software to survey water tables or studying shark behavior, most science-based conservation jobs require a minimum of a Masters Degree. The upside is that these jobs pay relatively well. Be ready to put in plenty of time in front of a computer crunching data while spending the rest of your time traveling the country (or world) to collect more.

MEDIA EXPECTED PAY: $20K - $70K WHO STARTED HERE: Author John Muir later petitioned congress for the National Park bill that passed in 1890.

Media jobs are as flexible—and

possibly as profitable—as you want them to be. As in most jobs, the more experience you have, the more money you make. Brand-new freelance writers or photographers are lucky to get paid in gear, but their words and images become more valuable over time. The best freelance writers can make up to $2/word. In some cases, press trips supplement salaries with unforgettable memories. Outdoor publications need a solid team of staff writers, editors and publishers. These positions pay more consistently. Highly qualified editors can make upwards of $60,000 per year, while publishers make even more.

NON PROFIT/GOVERNMENT EXPECTED PAY: $20K - $65K WHO STARTED HERE: Edward Abbey, once a part time park ranger, turned novelist and conservationist.

Non-profit and government employers in the outdoor space look something like Smokey the Bear. Young National Park rangers—in age or in experience—can expect long hours of hard labor for very little reward, except maybe a breathtaking backyard. Rangers are in charge of a wide variety of park services, from education to maintenance to law enforcement. The pay grade depends on the type of work and level of expertise. The average salary for a park ranger is in the $30,000’s, but interns and volunteers start lower than that.

So you want to take that big first step and break out of the cubicle and into the outdoor industry? Or maybe you want to become a wildlife volunteer? A reporter for Nitro Circus USA? A backup singer for Michael Bolton? The smiles ambassador for Thailand? Listen, we are not here to judge, but we can point you to a very fun site that can get you on your way—and at the very least show off your video talents. The concept behind DreamJobbing. com is simple: You head to the website, peruse the job board and then create a one-minute video that proves why you would be the ideal person to bring Mr. Bolton a touch of soul, or more realistically perhaps, nail down that first big position in the outdoor industry. The site chooses the best 12 videos, sends them to the prospective employeer and one of those applicants is chosen. The site offers up more than its high profile "Once in a Lifetime" jobs, too. Postings come up for more mundane work as well as internships. If you need some inspiration and insight on how you can create a winning video, peruse through the entries that landed down employment at places like CBS News. Does this all sound a bit like reality TV? That's no surprise, since DreamJobbing.com is the brainchild of TV producer Lisa Hennessy, who formerly worked for "Survivor's" Mark Burnett; Alex Boylan who won "The Amazing Race, Season 2"; and Burton Roberts, host of "The Yacht Channel." Go ahead and pull out your iPhone and get to work.

ALASKA OR BUST

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SILVERTON MOUNTAIN'S AARON AND JENNY BRILL KEEP BUILDING THEIR POWDER EMPIRE. THEIR LATEST VENTURE? A 15-MILLION-ACRE HELI-SKIING OPERATION IN ALASKA THAT OPERATES WHEN OTHERS DON'T. WELCOME YOUR NEW ADDICTION. by Jason Blevins photos by D. Scott Smith

THE GOOD STUFF: WILDHORSE, A LONGTIME GUIDE WITH SILVERTON MOUNTAIN GUIDES WHOSE MOM CALLS HIM JOSH, CARVES A LINE ABOVE THE NORTH PACIFIC NEAR SEWARD.

he Pusherman is in full swing, charming and cajoling as he peddles his coveted wares. “You’ve got your credit card on you, right?” he says, scanning the horizon for more potential clients. “Come on. Just one more bump. Let’s go.” White powder cakes the faces of two giddy Norwegian girls. They huddle together for a quick confer, giggling. “OK,” they say. “Just vun more,

chairlift ferries skiers to the best terrain in Colorado. But after a taste of the good stuff—an effortless minute in the helicopter—riding lifts isn't always enough to sate the jones. It's a growing abundance of take-my-money-now powder addicts who have spurred the Brills to step up their game. Over the course of the last nine years, the Brills have become the largest powder dealers in North America, accumulating permits

November and quickly sold out weeklong heliskiing trips out of a lodge in Seward, which counts the winter, like most Alaska towns, as off-season. “Everyone said it would be too cold. Too dark. Too early in the season to do this,” he said. “Everyone is wrong. You can’t get this experience anywhere else.” Brill started accumulating heliskiing permits on a whim in

yes?” The Pusherman turns to me. “How about you? Want another?” Do I ever. Suddenly, $159 doesn’t seem like much money. Of course, I have alread had two $159 bumps, but it’s better to relish the rush than mourn the money. Just focus on the soul-swelling ecstasy waiting on the other side of the credit-card swipe. “I’m in,” I say, ducking into Aaron Brill's bright yellow Eurocopter AS350 B3e heli. A loud minute later, we are awash in feathery snow, hunkering under the windy whine of rotor blades. Below us, a curtain of pristine San Juan powder drapes across reefs of jagged rock. One by one, we send rooster tails billowing into the blue. Panting, we regroup on the valley floor, cheeks flushed as we tap celebratory poles. Halfway down the road back to the base, I drop into a tuck, resolved to shake The Pusherman. But his grasp is strong, and I unconsciously skid to a halt at the helicopter. It’s sleek, alluring appeal is too powerful to pass up. Just another $159, I think. I’ll stop buying fancy coffees. Start packing my lunch. My daughter doesn’t really need piano lessons. The Pusherman, is grinning as he rides his snowboard up to his dope machine. “Fun, right?” he says.

for more than 15 million acres of helicopter-accessed terrain in Alaska, the powder junkie's Nirvana. On May 1 last year, Brill sold out all his 2016 Alaska helicopter trips— nine weeks in March and April in the Northern Chugach—in a few hours of frenzied booking. He sold out the 2015 season a year earlier in about the same time. Brill could likely sell nine weeks with another heli in the same few hours—but that would be the same path taken by the nearly dozen other heliskiing outfitters operating in

2007 during a down day at a buddy’s heliskiing bachelor party. By 2008, he was hosting clients who collapsed in airstrip-parked RVs after skiing more than 50,000 vertical feet a day. He quickly developed a loyal following of heliskiers. They are drawn to his unique model, which puts two guides with each group of four skiers and goes directly to the steep-and-deep, eschewing the traditional model of easing clients into bigger terrain. Brill vets Alaska clients in the heli at Silverton Mountain, testing their skills in Colorado's San Juans before

rill—and his wife Jenny—are the founders of Colorado's Silverton Mountain. They are also drug dealers. They admit it. They are the Walter Whites of skiing, peddling only the purest goods. The addiction starts innocently enough at the Brills’ Silverton Mountain ski area, where a single

one spot, chances are good it’s firing in another. The early-season in Seward is a powder zealot’s dream. The snow falls deep, accumulating as much as 13 feet in a week. It’s that maritime snowpack too, so it just clings to near-vertical faces. The sun rises around 10 a.m. and sets around 4:30 p.m., leaving plenty of time to punish quadriceps. The light, which goes from deep purple to neon orange, perpetually lingers in the magic moment that lasts mere minutes down south. At night, the sky ignites with the green-gassed Aurora Borealis. The lines can run 5,000-vertical feet or more, with shorter, highaltitude shots down to glaciers that stretch to the horizon or thigh-burners that descend into remote bays where waves pound black-sand beaches pocked with ice and snow. “What’s nice about Seward is the diversity of the terrain,” Brill says after a day of windowshopping steep, powder-caked lines. “The scenery is amazing and this is some of the deepest snowpack you will find anywhere this time of year.” Brill pulls out his phone and shows a video from August. The heli is parked on the sand. His guides shed their ski gear and surf waves at a very lonely break. Eureka! Brills’s now thinking about offering a ski-andsurf package at the end of the season, maybe call it Blower and Barrels. It’s yet another scheme from the pied-piper of powder, part of his plan to seed a continent of pie-eyed junkies scraping between the couch cushions for helicopter funds.

B FEELING THE BUMP: SILVERTON MOUNTAIN GUIDES CLIENTS GATHER ATOP A RIDGE NEAR SEWARD, ALASKA.

Alaska. Brill likes to break trail. “So I thought, instead of expanding capacity, why not expand the season. There’s no reason, if this is the best skiing in the world, which it is, to not want to ski it every day,” said Brill, who spent the summer skiing southern Alaska’s north-facing lines above the fishing village of Seward down to the barreling waves of Resurrection Bay. Brill tested the waters in

booking them for the big-boy terrain in Alaska. And he started gathering more permits. He’s got a million acres under permit in southeast Alaska’s Petersburg. He’s got close to 12 million acres in the Northern Chugach around the Knik River. And now he’s got 300,000 acres above the coastal fjords of Seward. The three bases each have their own distinct weather patterns, snow and mountain topography. If conditions turn sour in

ack in Silverton, it’s barely 10 a.m. and I’m about $500 deep. The Pusherman notes that a day of heliskiing is “only” $999. Such a casual “only.” “You’re more than halfway there already,” he says. I think about those horrifying meth ads. “Not even once.” More skiers are flying down the track, slowing down to marvel at the gleaming helicopter, the greatest toy ever made. The Pusherman starts his pitch. He sets the hook. Two freshly powder-frosted fiends grab for their wallets and sign the Pusherman’s paperwork, abandoning every possible legal right they could have. The Pusherman twirls his gloved mitt. The machine starts to scream. I duck my head and crawl inside. Just one more bump.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

open for

ADVENTURE TRAVEL GUIDE

FIND YOUR COLORADO. There’s one problem with this Photo: Peter McBride

state. It’s just so big and so rad, that it’s hard to decide exactly where you want to go for adventure when it’s time to roam. Don’t fret. This travel guide will get you pointed in the right direction and make that oh-so-difficult decision of just where to get outside and play in this mind-blowing state much easier.

BASALT

CITY OF CORTEZ

Discover the magic of Basalt! Once the junction of two railways, this charming historic center is the only U.S. town with two Gold Medal Rivers. Nestled between majestic Mount Sopris and Basalt Mountain, the Aspen Snowmass ski slopes and Glenwood hot springs, Basalt offers hiking/biking on miles of pristine trails, windsurfing and sailing at Ruedi Reservoir, cross-country skiing, rafting and world-class angling. Our fabulous restaurants, chic boutiques, eclectic galleries, Whole Foods and mid-valley convenience will ensure that you are forever “Hooked on Basalt.”

Located just outside of Cortez, Phil’s World Trail System is one of Colorado’s most popular mountain biking locations… without the crowds. Built by and for mountain bikers, Phil’s World offers nearly 60 miles of mindblowing trails in a system is full of enjoyable pitches that dip in and out of arroyos and over slickrock and ledges, all with views of Sleeping Ute, La Plata and Mesa Verde mountains. The MTB Project and International Mountain Biking Association rated Phil’s World No. 2 in Colorado and No. 10 Best Rides of All Time.

BASALTCHAMBER.ORG

MESAVERDECOUNTRY.COM

S P E C I A L A DV E RT I S I N G S E C T I O N

SALIDA

MT PRINCETON HOT SPRINGS RESORT

BUENA VISTA

Visitors to Salida will find a real town with real people and a great mix of stores, restaurants and shops, and art galleries that fill Colorado’s largest historic district. Located on the Arkansas River and just down the road from Monarch Mountain, Salida is a unique Colorado winter destination. Learn how to get half-price lift tickets to Monarch Mountain and plan your hot springs visits and other cool adventures by ordering a free visitors’ guide at ColorfulColorado.com.

Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort is a year-round destination located in Nathrop, Colorado, between the mountain towns of Buena Vista and Salida. Mount Princeton stays open late, and nighttime is the best time to experience the hot springs. Get a massage here and soaking in the hot springs is included all day long, including daily yoga and fitness classes. When you stay overnight, you may enjoy the hot springs the entire day you check in as well as the day you check out.

Buena Vista, Colorado, is best known for whitewater rafting in the summer, but explore the town during the winter, and you will find hundreds of miles of groomed snowmobile trails, and cross-country skiing or snowshoeing to some of Colorado’s best ghost towns. The historic downtown along the Arkansas River offers art galleries, restaurants, a brewery and a distillery. Plan your hot springs visits and cool adventures by ordering a free visitors’ guide at ColorfulColorado.com.

COLORFULCOLORADO.COM

MTPRINCETON.COM

COLORFULCOLORADO.COM

BOULDER ADVENTURE LODGE

FRUITA

KRISTI MOUNTAIN SPORTS

The Boulder Adventure Lodge (A-Lodge for short) is located along Fourmile Creek, five minutes from downtown Boulder. With easy access to Boulder’s rock climbing, fly fishing, trail running and mountain biking, the A-Lodge is situated in an adventure enthusiast’s dream. Updated linens, a slackline park, new paint, Jeremy Collins’ art and a brand-new lobby coming in early Summer are just some of the key updated amenities at the lodge. Make the A-Lodge the gateway to your Colorado adventure.

Imagine a place where mountain biking isn’t just a hobby, it’s the beating pulse of a thriving community. A place where you don’t need to worry about traffic, high priced hotels or unfriendly service. Where the sunsets are so vivid, you can’t help but stop whatever you’re doing and watch. Imagine a trip where one destination will satisfy at least ten items on your bucket list, from rafting on the Colorado River to homemade brews, and everywhere in-between. Stop imagining. Go Fruita.

Outdoor adventure in Southern Colorado starts in Alamosa—surrounded by multiple 14ers, incredible hiking and mountain biking trails, climbing crags, the Great Sand Dunes National Park, and much more! While planning your getaway, make sure to save a day to sandboard the tallest sand dunes in North America. Specially designed boards and sleds available to rent at Kristi Mountain Sports offer an exhilarating and unique sliding experience for the entire family. Call to reserve yours today! 719-589-9759.

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TRAVEL GEAR

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TEPUI EXPĂ&#x2030;DITION SERIES 2 DUFFEL Tent-maker Tepui designed this tough, modular duffel so that it would fit into expedition-style roof cargo racks, but we found that same durability and easy-to-pack shape made it perfect for any means of transport. The tough outer shell will ward off bumps and scrapes and even keep eveything dry while your bag sits on the airport runway tarmac during a tropical rainstorm. $120; tepuitents.com

OSPREY OZONE TRAVEL PACK 46 Every air traveler who likes to hike wants a backpack that's also a legal carry-on bag. Meet your new best friend. With 46 liters inside, this pack will swallow up all your stuff without having to check it on. $160; ospreypacks.com

GO AWAY

READY TO HIT THE ROAD ON THIS YEARâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BIG TRIP? TAKE A LOOK AT OUR RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THE BEST TRAVEL GEAR TO GET YOU THERE AND BEYOND.

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

ENERPLEX JUMPR SLATE 10K This handy charger can bring two iPhones back from the dead via its 2.4 amp outputs. But the real beauty of it is that it's thin enough to slip into the front pocket of a pack and keep the juice flowing while you are in transit. $100; goenerplex.com

MARMOT RED STAR One mandatory piece of gear no matter where you are headed is a rain shell, but it's nice if that all-important emergency layer can also offer up a bit of versatility. Marmot's latest three-layer masterpiece fits the bill, using a NanoPro stretch fabirc that imparts all the weatherproofing and ventilation of a top-of-the-line hard shell with more comfort. It's also snazzy enough to wear out to dinner. $300; marmot.com

RESQWATER

BLUNDSTONE This is not the fist time that we have recommended Blundstones for travel gear and it won't be the last. The fact is these boots, originally created for Tasmanian sheep farmers, can withstand a crapload of abuse but still look good enough for a night out on the town. That type of versatility is just what we want when we are limited in how many pairs of shoes we can carry with us. Even better, the brand just introduced new styles for women and kids. $200; blundstone.com 34

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Since they rehydrate you and replenish electrolytes, most sports recovery drinks also turn out to be damn good hangover cures (and preventative measures, too). Resqwater is the first we have enountered that embraces that magic power. Dreamed up in the desert heat of Arizona, the drink allows you to play hard in the morning without paying the consequences after a big night of celebration. $26 (six pack); resqwater.com

NATIVE EYEWEAR CRESTONE

PRIMUS ONJA Small enough to haul to the farmers' market or the beach, this surprisingly powerful two-burner stove also looks sexy enough for a Millennial's Instagram post. Best of all, it's built with all recyclable materials. $140; primus.eu/onja-stove

There are few horrors worse than sitting on your sunglasses at the start of a trip. With frames built of sturdy Rhyno-Tuff Air material, these babies can withstand some serious banging around. Plus, the polarized lenses fight off glare (and make it easier to spot fish, if you are so inclined). $129–$149; nativeeyewear.com

OUTDOOR RESEARCH ENSENADA HOODY

PRANA HONOUR JEAN

Soft Modal fabric, spun from the cellulose of beech trees, gives this all-purpose hoody that cozy, read-a-book-in-the-lateafternoon-on-the-beach feel, but serves up more performance than cotton. It's a versatile travel companion that will excel in a variety of situations—from belaying to taking a nap on a flight— when you're on the road. $79; outdoorresearch.com

Denim has made a big comback. Performance denim that is, and the slightly stretchy material in these sexy jeans makes them ideal for a trip where you might be transitioning from a hike to the car to dinner. $85; prana.com

EAGLES NEST OUTFITTERS SUB 7 HAMMOCK Weighing in at a scant 6.5 ounces, this lightweight, ripstop nylon hammock features Dyneema lines that are nearly impossible to fray or break. But it's still a damn comfortable place to sleep and an easy option to drop into a pack no matter where you may be headed on the planet. $70; eaglesnestoutfitters.com

SALOMON INSTINCT TRAVEL These kicks may appear quite casual, but they are equipped with grippy lugs on the soles that give them the abilty to take on big hikes without looking too dorky when you are chilling in town. Plus, they simply feel snug and cozy when you slip them on. $128–$160; salomon.com

BRUNTON RESYNCH 6000 Weatherproof and shockproof, this dual-port solar charger will ensure those all important electronics keep running when you are nowhere near a plug (and your external battery has run dry). $80: brunton.com

JBL EVEREST ELITE 300 We have one big recommendation for air travel: Bring noise-cancelling headphones. No one wants to spend a trip listening to that erstwhile traveler next to you yak. The NXTGen Active Noise Cancelling Technology in these sleek headphones, coupled with incredible sound quality, will put you in your own special place from takeoff all the way through to landing. $250; jbl.com M A R C H 2 016 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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HEAR THIS

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SOMETHING FISHY

TROUT STEAK REVIVAL IS POISED TO BECOME COLORADO’S NEXT BIG BLUEGRASS BAND. by JEDD FERRIS “IT LOOKS LIKE WE’RE DRIVING INTO THE LION’S DEN,” says Steve Foltz, mandolin player for up-and-coming Denverbased string band Trout Steak Revival. When reached by phone, Foltz and the rest of the acoustic quintet are cruising toward a gig in Pennsylvania, surrounded by thick layers of accumulated snow from Winter Storm Jonas, which rocked the East Coast back in January. Some hairy road conditions, though, aren’t going to stop an eager band when it's poised to go big time. Trout Steak Revival just spent a month this winter on its first national theater tour, playing short opening sets for jamgrass predecessors Yonder Mountain String Band in major cities including Atlanta and Nashville. It was a welcomed opportunity in the band’s current “spread-the-word” phase, as Foltz called it, playing its best material on stage for a fast 45 minutes, then shaking hands with new fans at the merch table. That frenzy is how a young band on the grassroots touring circuit grows, but back home, Trout Steak Revival has already done all the right things to potentially become Colorado’s next big bluegrass export. Two years ago the band won the Telluride Bluegrass Festival band contest (where previous winners have included Dixie Chicks and Nickel Creek), and that win followed a 2012 third-place finish at the band contest at RockyGrass. With momentum following the competition success and a growing fan base throughout Colorado, the group—which also features Travis McNamara on banjo, Bevin Foley on fiddle, Will Koster on dobro and guitar and Casey Houlihan on bass—decided to make the band a full-time pursuit at the beginning of last year.

photo courtesy TROUT STEAK REVIVAL

IN THE CURRENT: TROUT STEAK REVIVAL WILL TOUR BOULDER AND DENVER THIS MONTH.

That push started with the spring release of a new studio album, “Brighter Every Day,” an effort that features 11 original tunes that emphasize soaring harmonies and tight, collective playing over extended individual solos. “None of us grew up playing these instruments,” Foltz admits. “Our strength has never been ripping through a traditional bluegrass tune. Where we’ve always put our heads is songwriting and singing.” The band’s roots go back to Michigan, where Houlihan, Koster and McNamara first started playing music together as summer camp counselors, at the time mainly trading acoustic guitar-and-harmonica versions of rock tunes. All three, along with Houlihan’s college buddy Foltz, eventually ended up in Colorado, where they met Foley, a classically trained violinist since childhood. Enchanted by Colorado’s storied and still-thriving string band scene, which has yielded generations of popular outfits ranging from Hot Rize to Leftover Salmon and

Yonder Mountain, the members of Trout Steak Revival eventually got acquainted with bluegrass instruments, with Foley adjusting her focus towards the direction of oldtime fiddle. To make “Brighter Every Day” the band enlisted the help of the Infamous Stringdusters’ Chris Pandolfi, who produced the album and delivered a banjo boost on the pastoral newgrass instrumental “Sierra Nevada.” “He was a coach,” Foltz said of Pandolfi. “Six months before we went into the studio he was helping us dissect our songs and make changes. Some bands enter the studio and record on the fly, but we were prepared and that helped take a lot of songs to another level.” Honed arrangements help surface the introspective lyrics on standouts like the solemn countryminded ballad “Days of Gray” and the expansive, sunny folk-rock of the title track. “Pie” is hard-driving foot-stomper that proves the band is indeed developing some chops in traditional bluegrass, while “Colorado

River” has a wide-open, dancefriendly vibe with the high-country edge that’s expected to come from a string band in the Rockies. The band is planning to play more shows in 2016 than it played in any previous year, and with the tour supporting Yonder now done, Trout Steak is prepping for two big homestate shows this month: March 11 at the Fox Theater in Boulder with Caribou Mountain Collective, and March 12 at the Bluebird Theater in Denver with Covenhoven. With the crowds getting consistently bigger, the band has been working hard to make its live shows more adventurous. “We’ve been experimenting with open improvisational sections that are built into a song,” Foltz said. “With a lot of new tunes, there’s no particular ending point until we feel the tension is there to release into the chorus. A lot of that comes from watching bands like Greensky Bluegrass and the Stringdusters. That makes the live show a treat for fans, because they're hearing something new each time out. We’re building new moments.”

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THE ROAD

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HEIGHT OF COMMITMENT AFTER A FAILED ATTEMPT ON DENALI, A GROUP OF VETERANS MAKE THEIR WAY TO THE TOP THROUGH PURE DETERMINATION, TEARS AND THE KNOWLEDGE OF HOW FAILURE CAN BE AN IMPORTANT PART OF OUR TRIUMPHS. words and photos by CHRIS KASSAR

weeping glacial valleys punctuated by jagged peaks stretch endlessly below us. Our tiny, winged chariot swerves hard right and lands on a nondescript field of snow, more sledding hill than an airstrip. We scramble to unload all our gear and then suddenly the plane disappears with a loud flash. An eerie silence moves in and a familiar mix of anxiety, exhilaration, and uncertainty enters my gut. This is how any worthwhile expedition begins—with the realization that you are now unarguably on your own.

THE SLOG TACKLING DENALI REQUIRES THE TYPE OF UNRELENTING COMMITMENT, WILLINGNESS TO SUFFER AND RELIANCE ON THE TEAM THAT COMES NATURAL TO VETERANS.

In 2014, my partner Nick and I spent 25 days on Denali. A horrendous storm forced us off the mountain just 2,000 feet shy of the summit. Though that was a personal trip, it was also a scouting mission for this current climb with Nick’s nonprofit, Veterans Expeditions. I have returned here to Denali as the only non-vet, and only woman, on a team we have named “8 for 22.” The eight of us plan to attempt the climb for the 22 service members who take their own lives every day. We hope that reaching the summit as a team can raise awareness about this staggering statistic among many of the other struggles veterans face. Back on the glacier, we rig and pack sleds with mountains of gear and snake out of basecamp. We pass other climbers waiting to fly home and we learn that no one has successfully summited yet this season. No one says it, but we wonder what the mountain holds for us. The next day we move from Camp 1 (7,800 feet) to Camp 2 (11,000 feet). Daniel, a Marine used to being able to push through suffering, struggles under the unrelenting sun and we

8 FOR 22: THE GROUP CLIMBED FOR THE 22 VETS WHO COMMIT SUICIDE EVERY DAY.

slow to a crawl. He does not ask for help, but without a word, we empty his sled, lighten his backpack and move onward and upward.

“Nick’s one of the strongest people I know, but his body often rebels at altitude and we’ve just busted thousands of feet higher than he’s ever been.”

n all my years leading groups, I’ve never seen such grace. No one makes Daniel feel bad or wants credit for picking up slack.

These men, who have experienced such loss and heartache, have not allowed it to harden them. I am honored to walk among them. We are a vulgar, loud, confident, ugly group. Our collective facial hair (fortunately, myself excluded) rivals most gorilla clans. We stink, we’re brash, but we never waver from our mission or give up on each other. This commitment to team comes naturally. Of course, we want to stand on top of North American together, but our purpose, the force that drives us stretches far beyond the summit. We climb for the challenge, fun and discovery inherent in stepping beyond comfortable limits. We climb because we still can; Each kick, each swing is a tribute to fallen brothers and sisters who gave everything.

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Six days in, my hands go numb. The wind blows with an astounding, unrelenting intensity that overwhelms my senses. We reach the aptly named Windy Corner, a narrow bend that has claimed lives. Amidst various hollered requests for a break, Nick pushes on, seeming oblivious. Later, when we reach a safe lunch spot, Nick turns to me with a tear in his eye and says: “Dad told me not to stop. We were walking into the teeth of it and he made it clear stopping would’ve gotten someone hurt. I’ve never felt his presence like that before.” Nick’s dad, a Vietnam veteran, died unexpectedly a month after our last Denali adventure. Nick’s not the only one carrying someone taken too early. Our group has many memorials to those they’ve lost, some killed in combat, some who couldn’t bear the burden upon returning home. They have brought photos and dog tags, names written on helmets and etched into KIA bracelets and inked into tattoos. Nearing the end of our move to Camp 3 (14,200 feet), a helicopter with a haul net leaves the ridge overhead carrying the body of an Argentinian climber who perished

weeks ago. Bowing my head, I mutter a breathless prayer. I regain my focus on the icy steps and flash back to a conversation we’d had when we started: You hear there’s a body at 17,000 feet? They can’t get it yet until the weather clears.

moment while descending the fixed lines. “This mountain is totally within our wheelhouse if we just break it down into smaller, manageable pieces,” John shouts over the howl of the wind. “Yeah, you see pictures and think

“‘Dad told me not to stop. We were walking right into the teeth of it and he made it clear stopping would’ve gotten someone hurt. I’ve never felt his presence like that before.’ Nick’s dad, a Vietnam veteran, died unexpectedly a month after our last Denali adventure.” The emotional distance we employ when speaking about this man who died here surprises me. It’s crass, but maybe it’s the only way to cope when facing fear head on. The guys point out this is just one similarity between mountaineering and war: the ability to stay in the moment, be resilient and move on quickly can keeps you alive. The next day 10 hours into caching at 17,000 feet, we get pummeled by crazy, energy-sapping winds and cold. Dan, an Army vet, and John, a Marine, who both served in Iraq and Afghanistan, pause for a

it’s so scary, but it’s doable. This whole trip is life changing. It’s just opened up so many possibilities,” Dan shouts back. From my perch 20 feet below, I crack a smile. By going unguided, with no outside support and no one team or trip leader among us, we climb as equals, relying only on each other. This was our plan. It's working. With the cache established, we’re poised for a summit attempt—and then the blizzard hits. We wait it out for 12 days, shoulder to shoulder in the cook tent at 14,000 feet. I cradle

a tortilla full of the odd, yet delicious combination of fried reindeer sausage, white cheddar and Nutella. Dozens of groups who have run out of food, fuel or gumption, head down toward hot showers, and loved ones. The thought doesn’t even cross our minds.

t last the storm is over. Tethered together by two neon orange ropes we creep slowly and methodically along a snow-covered ridge, barely a bootwidth across. Each team member carefully places one foot in front of the other. A fall here simply cannot happen. Periodically, both rope teams drop as one to the ground—faces and bellies in the snow—to brace against the 80 m.p.h. gusts attempting to toss us off the mountain. We press on. Though only a mile long, the traverse from 16,200 feet to camp at 17,200 feet takes hours. When we finally stop and get in our tents, sleep eludes me. Just one more push. The next day, we’re somewhere around 19,000 feet when I notice it: Nick’s hands on his hips. I’ve climbed enough with him to know it’s never a good sign. At the next break, he remains in his position ahead of the

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group, hunched over and resting, not talking to anyone. Not good, I think. Not good. Nick’s one of the strongest people I know, but his body often rebels at altitude and we’ve just busted a thousand feet higher than he’s ever been. I alert a couple guys and ask them to keep an eye on him, knowing the last thing he wants is his perky, freak-of-nature, unaffected-byaltitude-girlfriend to ask how he feels.

“My hands stopped working hours ago. The wind blows with an astounding, unrelenting intensity that overwhelms my senses.” The next break comes too quickly. “It feels like my brains are coming out of my head,” Nick says. It's not exactly, what I’m hoping to hear coming from a team member, or this man I love, but he won’t entertain heading back. “I’m getting to the top,” he says. “We are getting to the top.” Nick’s pain persists, but he wills

himself on, despite my growing concerns, until we reach the last challenge, the tricky, technical summit ridge. In an act of true courage, Nick admits this is more than he can handle right now and he asks Daniel (the same Marine who struggled early on) to switch spots and take the lead. Daniel steps determinedly along the final narrow, snow-covered ridge to the top.

HIGHER THOUGHTS: THE 20,310-FOOT SUMMIT BECAME A PLACE TO CELEBRATE THE FRIENDS AND FAMILY SO MANY LOST BUT STILL CARRIED ALONG.

n the summit, there is a noticeable lack of any wind. The world unfolds before us. Still roped together, we share an awkward, puffy, helmet-filled team hug amidst whoops and hollers. Tears freeze at the edge of my eyes. A barrage of photos begin. Group shot, sponsor shot, individual ones. AJ, a former Army infantryman who served in Iraq, holds up seven different photos of friends from his unit killed in combat. The other guys follow suit. I hold an image of my family back in Jersey—living, but probably worse for the wear after these few weeks. Nick and I pose with a photo of his dad. They’re all here with us.

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ELWAYVILLE

that there were a million untracked powder days ahead for me, and for that, I was eternally optimistic. Optimism is the essence of this place.

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I'VE ALWAYS BEEN A DREAMER

THE DREAM DEFERRED

TAKE A WANDER— ALONG WITH THE EAGLES—INTO COLORADO’S ENDLESS HORIZONS. by PETER KRAY

grew up on The Eagles. From their eponymous debut to “Desperado” to “Hotel California,” their music (along with Bob Dylan, Jackson Browne and mom’s love for Roy Orbison) was one of the steady soundtracks of our home. But for such a storied FM hit catalog, for me it really comes down to one song: “Take It to the Limit.” That line, “You know I’ve always been a dreamer,” hits me every damn time. A California band, they created a kind of Colorado sound, evoking a sense of campfires and guitars and a bottle coming around. I love the way being “a dreamer” evokes a potpourri of possibility—that anticipation of road trips just begun, or stoned Saturday afternoons when you’re imagining all the people you might become or the infinite promise of getting out of bed in Colorado on any day that you don’t have to work and are overcome with how many adventures the next few golden hours can bring. The magic of this place has always been built on some permutation of gold, from the discovery of the precious metal itself to those moments when untracked inches fall from the sky and pool in glittering piles around your feet. It's the same in the summer, when the feeling of the sun finding you as you hike is the greatest sensation you’ve ever felt.

llustration by KEVIN HOWDESHELL / kevincredible.com

I remember when I was just back from college and a friend and I hiked a Fourteener: We had burgers and malts at the Lewis Sweet Shop in Empire for lunch, saw Wim Wenders’ “Wings of Desire” (real art cinema, German sad-boy stuff) in a theater on Broadway, and went out drinking whiskey all night in downtown Denver dives before finally lurching off to sleep. In the morning, when I realized how easy it would be to do it all again, I basked in the thought that every day in Colorado could easily be the best day of your life.

DENVER IN DREAMTIME When you live here, sometimes you can feel the dream breathing all around. It is in the way the mountains explode into view in the early light, beaming with a clear white promise

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / M A R C H 2 01 6

that comes creeping up the streets. That light can get inside you. More than that—it can fill you with a glow that knows no limits. It was that glow that once made me think I could easily write an entire novel sitting in an old Asian noodle house on the corner of York and Colfax, stringing together endless sentences as I sipped hot broth. When the Wynkoop Brewing Company opened, helping to spur a downtown revival with its Ireland-at-altitude ambiance, a friend and I promised to write a play there together, fueled by the muse of deep cold pints. I have no idea what either the novel or the play would have been about. I also can’t recall all the beautiful sky-eyed girls I ever saw hiking the Flatirons or on the chairlift ahead of me, who I immediately fell in love with, and who I knew would one day be my wife. All I knew was

If that dream has become a little harder to find of late, we have no one to blame but ourselves. So many dreamers keep moving here that it can sometimes be hard to keep your dream from bumping into the dream of someone else. That's especially true for the wildlife and the lands where we go to remember that we are part and parcel of something so much bigger than ourselves. Every year it seems there are that many more of us out there, hoping to see our shadows in the wilderness. Too many of us are too quick to remind any recent transplant from Chicago or Boston or Los Angeles that we moved here before they did, which, as we all should know, is not the same as being first. It’s not their fault they also fell in love with the specialness of this place. If you want to blame anything, then blame the music and the way every song you ever fell in love with felt like it just changed your life. Blame it on the beauty of Colorado itself and how when you first saw it you knew you could never live anywhere else. But never blame the dream. It’s what matters most. Glenn Frey, the co-founder of The Eagles and co-writer of “Take It to the Limit,” who died on January 18th, once said, “People don’t run out of dreams. People just run out of time.” Never forget that, because when it comes down to it, the dream is the only thing any of us really have. —Elevation Outdoors editor-atlarge Peter Kray is the author of The God of Skiing. The book has been called “the greatest ski novel of all time.” Don’t believe the hype? You can buy it here: bit.ly/godofskiing

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