Elevation Outdoors March 2017

DESTINATION CUBA | THE STEAMBOAT WEEKEND | #RENTAVANLIFE MARCH 2017

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TINATION COLORADO’S DES OP

H TRYARS OUEN BACKFC S OR OV R 20 YE

CONTENTS

March 2017 FAR EAST: RHIANNON WILLIAMS SCALES THE MOON HILL ARCH IN YANGSHUO, CHINA. SEE PG 32

DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

7 EDITOR’S LETTER

20 BEST OF THE ROCKIES

Colorado Springs beats Utah.

Every year, we ask our readers to nominate and vote for the best businesses, destinations and events across the region. Meet the winners!

8 QUICK HITS Steamboat secrets, a San Juan road trip, living the yurt life, The Stranger in the Woods and more...

24 HOW TO CUBA

The outdoor industry is fighting to turn the tide against climate change.

The once off-limits island is now the hottest spot for adventure travel. EO's Chris Kassar gives you inside info on how to make the most of Cuba.

15 HOT SPOT

29 #RENTAVANLIFE

Bozeman, Montana, is calling with ice climbing in Hyalite Canyon and untracked powder at Bell Lake Yurt.

Photographer Devon Balet decides that it's better to just sleep in your rental car than pay for a hotel.

16 THE TRAIL

31 BEST TRAVEL GEAR

Download the ViewRanger app and follow these coordinates to hike up Humphreys Peak, the top of Arizona.

From a foldable set of wireless headphones to urban approach shoes, this gear will help get you there.

12 FLASHPOINT

18 STRAIGHT TALK

photo above by ERIC HANSON

Anna Pfaff raps about how climbing fits between work as a trauma nurse.

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32 THE ROAD Eric Hanson finds epic limestone climbs and crazy Frenchmen on mopeds when he heads to China.

34 ELWAYVILLE How beer and new perspectives can help calm a fear of flying.

WANT MORE? CATC H

U P ON PAST ISSU ES, YOU R FAVORITE B LOG G E RS A N D DAILY ON LIN E-ON LY CON TEN T AT ElevationOutdoors.com ON TH E C OV ER: C OLOR A DO SPRIN G S' B EST OF TH E ROC KIES W IN N ERS SAVA N N A H PER RY OF PIKES PEAK A LPIN E SC HOO L, STEVE A N D R A N D I H ITC H C OC K OF U PA DOWN A, MICH A EL CA R ACA PPA OF C ITYROC K A N D ELA IN E SM ITH OF MOU N TAIN C H A LET POSE AT PALMER PA R K, W H IC H WON B EST U R BA N PA R K (PG 20).PH OTO BY: BEN FULLERTON / C AV EM A NC OLLEC TIV E.C OM

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Whale Lake, Zirkel Wilderness, Colorado - Devon Balet

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CONTRIBUTORS

ElevationOutdoors.com EDITORIAL ED ITOR -IN -CH IEF

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

doug@elevationoutdoors.com MAN AG IN G ED ITOR

CAMERON MARTINDELL

cameron@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR ED ITOR

CHRIS KASSAR

chris@elevationoutdoors.com IN TER N

LILY KRASS

play@elevationoutdoors.com CON TRIBUTIN G ED ITORS

AARON BIBLE, ADAM CHASE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, SONYA LOONEY, JAYME MOYE, TRACY ROSS, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN ED ITOR -AT-LARG E

PETER KRAY

C ON TRIBUTIN G WRITERS

DEVON BALET, KASSONDRA CLOOS KRISTIN DOBROTH, ERIC HANSON, JORDAN MARTINDELL, MELANIE WONG A RT

ART + PRODUCTION D IREC TOR MEGAN JORDAN

megan@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR D ESIG N ER

LAUREN WORTH

lauren@elevationoutdoors.com G RA PH IC D ESIG N ER

PAIGELEE CHANCELLOR

paigelee@elevationoutdoors.com

ADVERTISING + BUSINESS BLAKE DEMASO

PRESID EN T

blake@elevationoutdoors.com PU BLISH ER

ELIZABETH O’CONNELL

elizabeth@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE

MARTHA EVANS

martha@elevationoutdoors.com AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE

BEN YOUNG

ben@elevationoutdoors.com

B U SIN ESS MAN AG ER

MELISSA GESSLER

melissa@elevationoutdoors.com C IRC U LATION MA N AG ER

HANNAH COOPER

hcooper@elevationoutdoors.com

DIGITAL MEDIA CRAIG SNODGRASS

ON LIN E D IR EC TOR

craig@elevationoutdoors.com D IG ITA L MA N AG ER

TYRA SUTAK

tyra@elevationoutdoors.com

E L E VAT I O N OU T D O O R S M AG A Z I N E

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WHAT NEW PLACE DO YOU PLAN ON EXPLORING THIS YEAR? DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN I want to return to one of my favorite spots, Cedar Mesa, and expand my knowledge of the new Bears Ears National Monument. Enjoy it before lawmakers try to take it away.

ELIZABETH O'CONNELL North to Alaska's Kenai Peninsula and Kachemak Bay for hiking, kayaking and fishing.

CAMERON MARTINDELL Badlands National Park suddenly has a certain draw. It's six hours from the Denver area—I see an epic family camping vacation ahead.

CHRIS KASSAR Given all the turmoil in the world and inspired by our amazing Dixie, I plan on exploring my inner dog more deeply by finding joy in the small things, playing more wildly, giving hugs to complete strangers and acting out of love in every moment.

TRYA SUTAK Cuba. This beautiful country is full of history, character, color, amazing food, and a growing mountain biking scene.

It was also one of the favorite places of Ernest Hemingway, which makes it even more intriguing to explore.

CHRIS VAN LEUVEN Hyalite Canyon Recreation Area, near Bozeman, Montana.

According to Mountain Project, it's “the most concentrated, natural ice climbing venue in North America.”

DEVON BALET Cuba! I want to document the culture and to see what changes may come to this country that was once off limits for Americans. I also really want to do a surf trip to Baja. And back to Europe.

And South America. And, and, and...

ERIC HANSON I'm headed to Jordan to hike a segment of the trans-Jordan trail in March.

EDITOR’S LETTER

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DEEP BREATH If you care about conservation, public lands or simply not being poisoned by the air you breathe, it has been a very bad month. Where to start? A man who wants to gut regulations designed to protect public health is now the head of the Environmental Protection Agency—Scott Pruitt has, in fact, sued the agency 13 times. That’s like putting Ted Bundy in charge of a Girl Scout camp. I guess we should not worry too much since there’s currently a bill (H.R. 861) making the rounds in Congress that would simply eliminate the EPA. When it comes to public lands, the news is worse. Spearheaded by the state government of Utah, the movement to do away with public lands is gaining power. Utah’s legislature already passed a law claiming that 31.2 million acres of federal public lands in the state no longer belong to the rest of us. Since Utah cannot afford to manage these lands, this will most likely result in much of it being sold off to private

owners and lost forever. Don’t believe me? Look at the usually liberal state of Oregon, where 84,000-acre Elliott State Forest is up for sale since the state can't afford it.

In January, Utah Rep. Jason Chaffetz introduced a bill that would sell off 3.3 million acres of public lands across the West. That at least set off protests in Montana and New Mexico and an outcry from the normally conservative hook-and-bullet community. After just a few days, Chaffetz claimed to rescind the bill when he posted a photo on Instagram of him decked out in camo, holding a puppy and declaring himself a proud gun owner. But the bill is not officially dead and another of Chaffetz’s bright ideas, this one emasculating the law enforcement abilities of the Bureau of Land Management and U.S. Forest

SAVE THIS! THE NEWLY CREATED BEARS EARS NATIONAL MONUMENT IS IN DANGER. photo by DAN RANSOM

Service, is still very much alive.

Piling on, last month, the Utah legislature voted to rescind the newly created Bears Ears National Monument and reduce the size of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, created during the Clinton Administration. This was the last straw for big outdoor brands like Patagonia and Arc’teryx, who have been attending the Outdoor Retailer show, which pumps close to $50 million into the local economy annually, in Salt Lake City since 1996. They decided to boycott the show in the face of Utah’s aggressive policy of dismantling the industry that pumps $12 billion and 122,400

direct jobs into the state each year.

When the organizers of the show and the Outdoor Industry Association met with Utah Gov. Gary Herbert to ask him to stop the attack on the public lands that feed this sustainable economy, Herbert laughed them off so badly, the show declared that not only will it pull out of the state, it will also never bring related shows like Interbike there. That's a stunning loss for Utah in many ways.

Ok, take a deep breath. There is hope here in Colorado. The new Colorado Office of Outdoor Recreation is pushing the benefits of sustainable recreation and lobbying for the show. And just look at Colorado Springs, which racked up five wins in our Best of the Rockies poll, and earned the cover of this issue. Here, in a town once derided for being too conservative, an outdoor community is thriving. And though they may come from a wide variety of political backgrounds, the recreationists that live there all value what public land gives them and their beautiful city. So be like Colorado Springs, Utah. Bring us together, rather than ripping what we all love apart.

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QUICK HITS

03.17

TECHNOLOGY JABRA ELITE SPORT Keeping buds in your ears during big workouts or outdoor endeavors can be tough, but these shiny new buds feature three different size settings to fit snugly into your ear for intense movement. Best of all, they charge up in their case. $250 | jabra.com

GEAR WE LOVE YAKIMA SHOWCASE 20 CARGO BOX A cargo box is an essential for any outdoor lover who runs out of car space.

The smart, sleek new Showcase opens from either side and it's aerodynamically designed so that it doesn’t put a big ding in the gas bill. $780 | yakima.com

BOOKS THE STRANGER IN THE WOODS Christopher Knight spent 27 years totally alone in the woods of Maine, living by his wits, robbing from nearby vacation homes and outsmarting the local police—until he was finally caught and forced to return to society.

Author Mike Finkel, the only person he has officially talked to about his life alone in the woods, tells his story in this engaging read. $20 | penguinrandomhouse.com 8

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THE SAN JUAN TRIP LOAD UP THE ROCKET BOX AND HEAD TO SOUTHWEST COLORADO FOR A SKI AND SNOWBOARD TRIP THAT WILL MAKE YOU FORGET YOUR FACEBOOK FEED. You don’t have to leave the state to lose the crowds.

Southwest Colorado’s dream mountain range boasts snow, non-existent lift lines and aggressive terrain.

Here’s our breakdown on how to maximize your time when you point the grill to the San Juans.

Wolf Creek Ski Area (wolfcreekski.com) is the ideal place to start that epic Southwest Colorado ski jag. Authentic and steep, Wolf Creek typically enjoys bountiful snowfall—averaging 430 inches annually, the most in the state—and offers up some of the best hike-to and backcountry terrain in Colorado, especially in the Knife Ridge area. Soak your limbs in the rooftop pool at the Overlook Hot Springs Spa (overlookhotsprings.com) in Pagosa Springs at the bottom of Wolf Creek Pass and then head to Purgatory Resort (purgatoryresort.com), just north of Durango. The deceptively good resort offers a mix of terrain for every level of skier within its 1,360 skiable acres, with the town of Durango providing an ideal spot to spend time sampling the local brewery scene (hit Best of the Rockies winner Ska, see page 20) in between days on the slopes.

Leave the kids—or beginners—at home when planning a stop for the famed steeps at Silverton Mountain (silvertonmountain.com) just a bit further north on US 550 from Purgatory.

If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, book a heli-trip with the ski area’s guides for some deep turns on expert terrain. Relive the action over a pint at Avalanche Brewing Company (avalanchebrewing.com), located on one of the dirt turnoffs from “the paved road.”

And then there’s Telluride Ski Resort, which has some of the steepest in-bound terrain in the state, topped off with the feels-like-you-are-in-thewild hike up Palmyra Peak. The mountain also grants access to four hike-to areas with terrain status designated as Advanced to Extreme. If lift access brings an element of sacrilege to your San

TO HEAVEN YOU RIDE? TELLURIDE'S 2,000 SKIABLE ACRES AND 4,425-FOOT VERTICAL DROP MAKE IT A MANDATORY PILGRIMAGE SITE. photo courtesy TELLURIDE SKI RESORT

Juan pilgrimage, the area has some incredible opportunities to head into the backcountry, as well.

San Juan Mountain Guides (mtnguides.net) is an established outfitter able to guide both day and overnight hut trips within the area’s terrain. If you plan on heading out without a guide, keeping up with area conditions via Colorado Avalanche Information Center’s (avalanche.state.co.us) daily forecast is a must.

—Kirsten Dobroth

YURT TIME GET A TASTE OF THE ALPINE LIFESTYLE AT ONE OF COLORADO’S BACKCOUNTRY YURTS. Yurts—they’re not just for Mongolia anymore.

These circular-shaped shelters created to withstand the extremes of central Asia’s grasslands, have gained a cult popularity in the American mountains. Like their alpine cousin, the backcountry hut, backcountry yurts provide a cozy destination for a winter trip, but they typically offer a more intimate setting than huts and they tend to offer fewer amenities. Yurt trippers should expect a rustic experience (although some yurts can be very nicely decked out) and be prepared to chop wood, use a wood-burning stove, bring lanterns and melt snow for drinking water.

Sound like your ideal vacation? Fortunately, Colorado is home to many yurt rentals, ranging from the luxurious Tennessee Pass Sleep Yurts (tennesseepass.com/sleep-yurts), to the drive-up, family-friendly Yurt Village at Snow Mountain Ranch (snowmountainranch.org/ lodging) outside Granby. We checked out the privately operated Never Summer Nordic Yurts (neversummernordic.com) in State Forest State Park, located near Walden, 80 miles west of Fort Collins. This hidden gem of a park offers 71,000 acres of pristine forest dotted by lakes and connected by trails, plus lots of solitude.

W e e k d ay e s c a p e t o

grand county CAMP IN THE ROUND: NEVER SUMMER NORDIC BOASTS THE ONLY BACKCOUNTRY YURT SYSTEM IN COLORADO, WITH NINE YURTS SCATTERED THROUGHOUT THE STATE FOREST STATE PARK, NEAR WALDEN. MANY OTHER YURT RENTALS CAN BE FOUND ALL OVER THE STATE AND THE MONGOLIAN TEN IS IDEAL FOR ALPINE ENTHUSIASTS LOOKING TO SKIP HOTELS. photo courtesy NEVER SUMMER NORDIC

Five miles from lonely Highway 41, at the end of a powder-covered trail and nestled in a secluded grove of dense firs, sits the Ruby Jewel Yurt, where we opted to spend the night. The Ruby Jewel is one of nine backcountry yurts in the State Forest, accessible in the winter only by skis or snowshoes. The yurts, which run roughly $100 per night, supply propane, firewood, sleep pads and cooking equipment, allowing you to keep your pack relatively light. Still, taking off your boots and huddling around the wood-burning stove with a cup of hot chocolate after the wintery trek feels like the ultimate in luxury. Once there, the forest is your playground. Take your pick of numerous snowshoe trails, watch for the neighborhood moose, go ice fishing, or head out and access some backcountry skiing.

Once evening hits, you’ll be amazed at how the wood-and-canvas yurts retain heat, and you’ll marvel at the silence of the forest, save the sound of snow periodically sliding off the conical roof. That serene effect is exactly what Never Summer owner Greg Graves envisioned when he purchased the company 15 years ago.

“Greg enjoyed the rustic feel yurts offered,” says Bron Austin Deal of Never Summer Nordic. “He wanted to provide the most pleasant outdoor experience in the ideal natural environment.”

—Melanie Wong

LOVE AT FIRST SUMMIT? IT’S EASY TO CALL YOURSELF AN “AVID HIKER” ON DATING SITES, BUT HOW OUTDOORSY IS YOUR DATE REALLY? PUT THAT TINDER MEET-UP TO THE TEST THIS SPRING WITH A PATIENCETRYING HIKE THAT WILL CHALLENGE BOTH BODY AND SPIRIT. THE MANITOU SPRINGS INCLINE

The Incline is a gravity-defying staircase made from the bones of an old cog railway track. With 2,000 feet of elevation gain, it’s one tough mile—which makes it perfect for testing the patience and determination required of a good partner. Don’t give up when you reach Bailout Point, and try not to be too discouraged by the false summit. From the top, connect with Barr Trail for a 3.7-mile loop.

GREAT SAND DUNES NATIONAL PARK

Seeing miles of sand dunes from the top of the 700-foot-high Star Dune peak is worth every stumble and fall.

But sliding backward after every step forward, while being blasted with sand and icy wind, can be quite trying. Not to mention there’s a long drive home to civilization, too.

THE CRAGS

On the back side of Pikes Peak lies a winter playground with both steep, steady climbs and long, flat stretches through stunning rock formations.

Snowshoe up to the view from trail #664 over a moderate 4.3 miles, or take a right at the intersection with trail #753 to climb all the way to the top of Pikes Peak (12.1 miles).

—Kassondra Cloos

Skiing. Snowboarding. Snowmobiling. Ice fishing. Sleigh rides.

Shopping. Dining. Soaking in hot springs. The end of one adventure is just the beginning of another in Grand County.

With lower weekday rates, uncrowded slopes to explore, and our convenient location to Denver, Grand County is the perfect destination for a weekday escape. Don’t Just Explore Colorado.

Go Grand.

VisitGrandCounty.com GRANBY • GRAND LAKE • HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS KREMMLING • WINTER PARK/FRASER

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QUICK HITS

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STEAMBOAT SPRINGS, CO SOME OF STEAMBOAT’S BEST-KEPT SECRETS APPEAR AFTER THE CROWDS LEAVE IN THE SIDE SEASONS. EAT A local institution, Freshies (freshiessteamboat.com) is an absolute must for a breakfast. Tank up on Southwestern and traditional breakfast fare and be sure to leave room for one of the epic cinnamon rolls covered in cream cheese frosting.

The lively owners will serve up a side of charm and humor to start your day right. For happy hour, check out Salt and Lime (suckalime.com), a modern Mexican restaurant with creative cocktails, homemade chips and knockout tacos. If the weather is nice, enjoy the rooftop patio while taking in Steamboat’s views. At first glance, Rex’s (rexsgrill.com) facade leaves a bit to be desired, but what it lacks in aesthetics, it makes up for in big flavor.

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It’s a perfect place to grab a beer and burger for couples or families alike.

PROMISED LAND: STEAMBOAT IN SPRING IS A STUDY IN CONTRAST. photo by NOAH WETZEL

SLEEP Half luxury VRBO and half bed and breakfast, Moving Mountains (movingmountains.com) brings the ease and convenience of staying at a vacation rental but with some highend ammenities. Ski valet? Check.

Breakfast in Bed? Check. Personal Chef? Check. Customize the trip you want in the diverse and stunning homes that Moving Mountains has to offer. Great for extra large groups too, Moving Mountains has homes with up to ten bedrooms. While the price tag is hefty, the experience is unforgettable.

For a more budget friendly option, try the Nordic Lodge of Steamboat (nordiclodgeofsteamboat.com). Skip the chain motel, and check in at this no frills downtown motel that has all the basics, but with the charm and friendliness of a local business. It's family owned and operated, and the owners shop for and Hand select breakfast fare daily.

PLAY If you are looking for a more solitary outdoor experience surrounded by

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mountains, sleep and play at Pearl Lake State Park (cpw.state.co.us/ placestogo/parks/PearlLake), just 25 miles outside of town. Winter lodging is allowed at the park’s yurts as long as you are willing to hike, ski or snowshoe in the half mile to them. The park is also open late May through early October for warm-weather activities, including tent camping, nonmotorized water sports and hiking. A

trip to Steamboat wouldn’t be complete without a soak in Strawberry Park Hot Springs (strawberryhotsprings. com). But why not skip the drive and earn your soak with a hike up the Hot Springs Trail (Forest Service Trail 1169)? This three-mile hike winds its way up a small, beautiful ravine and lets you out at the property.

—Jordan Martindell

FLASHPOINT

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TEMPERATURE RISING IS THERE NO WAY TO FIGHT BACK AGAINST A GOVERNMENT THAT NOW SEES CLIMATE CHANGE AS A HOAX? THE OUTDOOR INDUSTRY HAS THE MEANS, AND THE CHECKBOOK, TO TURN UP THE HEAT.

by TYRA SUTAK

O

n a cold and hazy winter day in Salt Lake City, Utah, members from all different walks of the outdoor industry left their posts inside of the busy Outdoor Retailer Winter Market to gather together to talk about one thing: climate change. Led by three hard-charging leaders in the climate change fight, the Outdoor Industry Association’s “You Can’t Do Business on a Dead Planet” panel wasn’t filled with shocking new information about the Earth. It’s burning up. But anyone with senses knows that.

According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), 2016 was the hottest year on record, coming in at nearly two degrees Fahrenheit above the 20th century average.

And there’s no indication that the record-breaking temperatures being recorded across the planet each year are on course to reverse anytime soon. So instead of lamenting about what we already know, the panel, consisting of Chris Steinkamp, executive director of Protect Our Winters; Luke Cartin, environmental sustainability manager for Park City, Utah; and Anne Kelly, the 12

senior program director for public policy and director of the Business for Innovative Climate and Energy Policy (BICEP) program at Ceres, focused on action.

“There isn’t really time to discuss this anymore,” Steinkamp said as he addressed the engaged crowd of flannel-clad attendees. “We know the problem, and we know the solution.

We can’t dance around this anymore.”

$646 BILLION STRONG

Steinkamp’s place on the panel represented the voice of the outdoor industry, a powerful force in the U.S. economy responsible for $646 billion in annual consumer spending and 6.1 million direct jobs. As a community, the outdoor industry has always been vocal about protecting the planet—the place where they do business. But it’s not just the CEOs of major companies in the industry, like Black Diamond and Patagonia that have recently taken a more vocal stance on climate change action (the show announced last month that it is leaving the state due its intractable stance on public lands). Only five months into his new role as the city’s Environmental Sustainability Manager, Luke Cartin announced Park City’s climate goals to reduce the ski town's carbon footprint to zero

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and transition the city’s energy grid to 100-percent renewable energy by 2032 for everything within city limits.

Located in a state where the official rock is coal, Cartin has set ambitious goals to create a sustainable future. And his enthusiasm and drive have been infectious. Following Park City’s climate announcement, officials in Salt Lake City announced that they, too, would work to achieve a goal of 100-percent clean energy by 2032— which for the largest city in a state predominantly powered by coal—is an encouraging sign.

The past four years have also brought encouraging signs from Washington D.C., which give key players in the fight against climate change hope for the future. During the Obama’s presidency, the Environmental Protection Agency introduced the Clean Power Plan, aiming to strengthen and support the trend towards clean American energy by reducing carbon pollution from power plants. Just prior to leaving office, Obama officially entered the United States into the Paris Agreement—within the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change to double down on halting the effects of climate change on a global level. President Obama

BEING THE CHANGE: SKIERS AND RIDERS TALKED ABOUT THE NEED TO FIGHT CLIMATE CHANGE FOR THE INDUSTRY AND FOR THE PLANET AT PROTECT OUR WINTERS’ SQUAW VALLEY RIDERS ALLIANCE ATHLETE SUMMIT IN DECEMBER 2016. photo by MING POON/POW

also sent an encouraging message to the outdoor industry when he signed the Outdoor REC Act into law. The bill ensures that the outdoor industry’s economic impact is recognized by the U.S. government and accounted for as part of the gross domestic product (GDP), putting the industry on the same footing as extractive industries when it comes to government accounting. But perhaps the most important thing the Obama administration did to battle climate change was acknowledge it.

THE WORST CASE

On January 20, 2017, Donald J. Trump was sworn into office as America’s 45th president. Before announcing his historic bid for the highest seat in the country, Trump shared his diagnosis of climate change with a 2012 tweet: “The concept of global warming was created by and for the Chinese in order to make U.S. manufacturing non-competitive.” His stance on the topic didn’t waver much as his

controversial campaign charged across the country. As the election unfolded, tension rose throughout outdoor community as a potential Trump presidency became reality.

Trump has wasted no time making good on the pro-fossil fuels stance he built a good portion of his campaign on. The new president nominated Oklahoma Attorney General Scott Pruitt to head up the EPA—an agency Pruitt has sued 13 times and condemned for overestimating air pollution from natural gas drilling.

Pruitt was approved by the Senate in February. In the first three hours of his presidential term, Trump erased President Obama’s Climate Action Plan from the White House website, replacing it with An America First Energy Plan “committed to eliminating harmful and unnecessary policies such as the Climate Action Plan” and taking advantage of “untapped shale, oil and natural gas reserves, especially those on federal lands.”

Regardless of where you fall on the political spectrum, numbers don’t lie. Things aren’t looking good for the future of the planet. Winter seasons are getting shorter and

wetter. Forty-six states in the U.S. reported above-average temperatures during the 2015/2016 winter season.

The last decade has seen a rise in wildfires, with the Forest Service

hope for the planet? The outdoor industry’s collective response is a resounding yes. Immediately following the election, organizations like the Sierra Club and the Outdoor

Following Park City’s climate announcement, officials in Salt Lake City announced that they, too, would work to achieve a goal of one-hundred-percent clean energy by 2032—which for the largest city in a state predominantly powered by coal—is an encouraging sign. estimating an average of more than 73,000 wildfires burning roughly seven million acres of federal, tribal, state and private land. Soars in annual average temps will incite droughts, which will not only affect water resources for millions of Americans, but jobs and income as well.

INEVITABLE DOOM?

So are we doomed? With so much political turmoil and uncertainty surrounding the climate change issue, and the impact of climate change becoming more visible around the world, is there still

Industry Association issued powerful statements to that they would fight harder than ever for the welfare of the planet, firing up and mobilizing supporters across the country.

“Right after the election, people came out of the woodwork, looking for ways to get involved,” said Steinkamp. “There has been an outpouring of enthusiasm and energy for climate action, which was the silver lining of this election.”

Steinkamp and his team of volunteer ambassadors and climate activists at Protect Our Winters are changing their strategy for moving the needle

in Washington D.C. on climate change. “The idea of signing letters and sending petitions to Washington is kind of old school,” he said. “We’ve got to dial up our activism beyond what we’ve ever done.” For Steinkamp and crew, this means an ambitious game plan for 2017 that focuses on engaging the people behind the big money in the outdoor industry to join forces with POW and demand climate action in Washington.

For Luke Cartin and Park City, a positive change in climate action on a city and state level is brewing, spawning more energy behind the movement than ever before. “Because we set these ambitious goals, there’s that sense of urgency, and that sense of urgency has actually led to a sense of excitement,” said Cartin. “We’re making great headway, and we’re doing it in a state that isn’t putting all of these sustainability incentives out there. So the response is, if we’re doing it in Utah, then we hope to be a road map to other cities in the country. Now is the time to take action.”

Tyra Sutak is a freelance writer based out of her van and the digital editor of Elevation Outdoors.

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HOT SPOT

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SPRING FLINGS

THERE’S STILL TIME TO GET YOUR SNOW-ANDICE FIX. JUST NINE HOURS FROM DENVER, BOZEMAN, MONTANA, IS THE IDEAL LATEWINTER PLAYGROUND.

by CHRIS KASSAR

B

ozeman, Montana, tops our list of classic winter hotspots—for good reason.

It claims world-class ice climbing, untracked backcountry skiing, iconic fly fishing and the best music, beer and food scene west of Fargo (and east of Spokane). Head north as the days grow longer, and follow our lead to dig into what keeps Bozeman fun and funky.

HYALITE CANYON

Located just 45 minutes from town up the Hyalite Canyon Road (plowed until March 31), this glacially carved canyon situated on the northern fringe of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem offers up a bit of everything—from ice routes that keep local legend Conrad Anker on his game to packed paths ideal for fat bikes. Make it the epicenter of your adventures that start with breakfast at the Cateye Cafe (cateyecafe.com) in town.

ICE With over 250 ice routes of varying grades, Hyalite is one of the most reliable, concentrated, natural ice climbing venues in North America.

Its diversity means you can spend all day toproping, lead challenging multipitch lines, test your mixed-climbing skills or push it on a ridgeline traverse that links multiple routes. Hit the Genesis and Mummy Cooler areas—within minutes of parking the car, you can toprope classics like Mummy Cooler I & II (WI 2 & WI 3+), The Scepter(WI5), Genesis I & I (WI3+), Hangover (WI3) and The Whiskey Sweats (M5 WI4). To the west of the parking lot, Unnamed Wall, a mile-long cliff band with over three dozen established routes provides the perfect mixed and ice playground. We especially love The Thrill is Gone (M4 WI3), The Fat

One (WI3) and the secluded Elevator Shaft (WI4). Cleopatra’s Needle (WI5), a multi-pitch adventure with variations from WI4 to WI6, is a must-do classic.

SKI If vert makes your head spin, explore backcountry skiing options from steep peak objectives to mellower meadow cruises teeming with powder stashes. Looking for a big day that requires full mountaineering skills and avalanche training? Hit the 900-foot descent from the summit of Mt. Blackmore, a classic summit tour that tops out at 10,154 feet—the even more difficult north face was the stomping ground of extreme ski legends like Tom Jungst and Jim Conway. If you don't want to go that big, stop before the top and cruise a shorter, but still spectacular run. Or, head to easily accessible History Rock, a popular spot that's a six-mile roundtrip from trailhead that serves up three skiable meadows—each slightly higher, and with less traffic, and therefore better snow conditions, than the last. Nordic skiers and snowshoers should schuss the endless miles of ungroomed terrain and 30 kilometers of groomed ski trails in the Hyalite system. No matter where you are headed, be sure to check Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center (406-587-6981) for daily advisories.

RIDE Fat tire riders pedal around Hyalite on marked and groomed snowmobile trails; access these from the Moser trailhead in the northeast corner of the canyon. Purchase a Trail Pass ($18), valid for three seasons and good for all “mechanized equipment,” including snowmobiles, motorized snow bikes and fat bikes.

GUIDES Montana Alpine Guides (montanaalpineguides.com), owned and operated by Sam Magro, provide expert insight and a helping hand for skiers, climbers and riders in Hyalite.

Magro has put up first ascents across the globe, and his guiding team is well trained and familiar with the area.

BELL LAKE YURT

When you are ready to explore further afield head to the remote Bell Lake Yurt, perched in a peaceful nonmotorized zone in the Tobacco Root Mountains and owned by former Backcountry editor and frequent Elevation Outdoors contributor Drew Pogge. Here you can tour big basins, drop into steep couloirs, cruise an expansive alpine bowl or lay tracks in a treed glades; skiers and splitboarders of all abilities can find something to satiate their powder craving starting at the yurt. And each night, after your legs are jelly and you’ve gotten all the face shots possible, relax and eat up in a cozy atmosphere. Friendly guides take care of all the details—planning, breaking trail, cooking meals and delivering you safely to the best snow—so you can soak up every minute. Work with them to create a custom itinerary—all catered—on your ideal dates.

They have a maximum guide-toclient ratio of 4:1. Prices start at $175 per person, per day. During Powder Week (a four-day, three-night block set aside every year in March); eight skiers and two guides explore 14,000 acres of exclusive terrain. More challenging, hard-core trips include

SMOKING SIOMETHING: HIGH UP IN THE TOBACCO ROOTS, GUIDES BRING CLIENTS TO THE GOODS NEAR BELL LAKE YURT. photo courtesy BELL LAKE YURT

the Montana Haute Route, 26 miles across the rugged Tobacco Root Range. Guides and meals included; $995 per person. Of course, you can also explore on your own as long as you’re an experienced, self-sufficient group with at least one person Level 1 Avalanche First Aid certified. $340 per night, for up to eight guests ($42 per person). belllakeyurt.com

FLY FISHING

Fly fishing in spring means sparse crowds, low water levels that concentrate fish in specific areas and trout that are hungry after a long, cold winter. Though the weather can be extremely variable, the excellent fishing makes it worth it. Close to Bozeman, the Gallatin River parallels US 191 and offers excellent spring wading for rainbows, browns and cutthroats. And with low water, fish stack up in easy-to-spot holes, making them easier to spot (and catch) than later in the season.

Floating the Yellowstone River in Paradise Valley also gives anglers the opportunity to catch huge brown trout and rainbows in the 13-inch to 16-inch range. Get gear and beta on the best fishing holes at Montana Troutfitters (troutfitters.com), Bozeman’s oldest fly fishing shop, established in 1978.

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POWERED BY

THE TRAIL

03 .17

ALPINE ZONA: IT’S A BIG VIEW FROM THE TOP OF THE STATE ON 12,635-FOOT HUMPHREYS. photo by CHRIS KASSAR

GET THE FREE APP AND FOLLOW THIS ROUTE ON IPHONE, IPAD AND ANDROID DEVICES. VIEWRANGER.COM

GET TRIP INFO SEE MORE ROUTE DETAILS, GPS DATA & PRINT MAPS. bit.ly/2lXN6pJ

HUMPHREYS PEAK DOWNLOAD THE FREE VIEWRANGER APP AND THESE COORDINATES AND HEAD TO THE ROOF OF ARIZONA HIGH UP IN THE KACHINA PEAKS.

by CHRIS KASSAR

T

op out on Arizona’s highest summit after pushing through this physically challenging, but nontechnical 9.4-mile out-and-back route up Humphreys Peak (12,557 feet). Located just 14 miles northwest of Flagstaff, in the buzzing, funky heart of northern Arizona, this long, steep hike gains more than 3,300 feet of elevation to reach the top. The rewards are big, with a 360-degree panoramic view across peaks, desert and canyons from the summit.

And be prepared, much of Arizona may be warm, but cold, windy conditions are the norm up here.

Depending on the winter, climbing Humphreys in March may require snowshoes or traction devices.

Other years, hiking boots will do just fine.

series of well-graded switchbacks that guide you through the dense forest.

OPENINGS

At about 10,500 feet, the aspens begin disappearing and trees thin, offering views into the Snow Bowl area to the right. As you continue ascending, the forest changes, giving way to firs, bristlecone and limber pines and Englemann spruce. The gnarled, sparsely distributed trees illustrate the role that wind, water, and snow play in shaping a high altitude landscape.

4.

AGASSIZ SADDLE

Continue on the Humpreys Peak Trail across the west-facing ridge to reach the saddle at 11,800 feet. Here, the Weatherford Trail comes in from the south, but the peak trail turns north to skirt the west side of the ridge. (Note that the Forest Service prohibits off-trail hiking here above 11,400 feet, so stay on the trail.) Before pressing on, take a break and layer up if needed. The next mile of trail cruises above treeline so there is no shelter. If thunderstorms or snowstorms threaten, stop here and turn around.

made it the top! Take shelter in a stone windblock and pause to absorb views in every direction. On a clear day you can see the White Mountains, the Grand Canyon, the Mogollon Rim, the Painted Desert, Oak Creek Canyon, the Hopi Mesas and Utah’s Navajo Mountain.

TRAIL GEAR SCARPA SPIN

Featuring sock-fit construction, a Mega-grip sole and a full-length rock plate, the 8.9-ounce Spin (in size 42 Euro) has the guts to deal with the rugged, rocky trail on Humphreys.

The shoe was built for trail running, however, meaning that all that protection won’t slow down your stride. $130; scarpa.com

TRAILHEAD

To reach the trailhead from Flagstaff, take Highway 180 north for seven miles. Turn right and follow the Arizona Snowbowl Road for six-and-ahalf more. Turn left into a parking lot just below the ski area lodge to find the trailhead. Begin hiking from the signed trailhead at the north end of the lot. Cross an open meadow near the base of the chairlift in Upper Hart Prairie and enter the forest, which begins as a mixture of ponderosa, Douglas fir and aspen trees.

SWITCHBACKS

After a gradual ascent, begin climbing a long 16

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5.

FALSE SUMMITS

If you decide to push on, follow the Humpreys Peak Trail north to follow the west side of the ridge.

After just 0.2 miles, leave behind the last of the gnarled trees to follow the trail, climbing steadily over rocky terrain toward the top, but you can’t see it from here. Don’t let a number of false summits fool you. Press on along the ridge, enjoying your first views east and into the inner basin.

6.

HIGHEST POINT IN ARIZONA

Though the footing to reach this summit was tricky, with loose gravel and jagged rocks, you’ve

OUTDOOR RESEARCH ENDURANCE GAITER

This ultralight, protective soft shell gaiter keeps out rocks, snow and gravel.

Made of stretchy, waterproof-breathable material that moves with you, it sports a stepin, zip-up design that makes it easy to take on and off of both bulky boots and trail runners. $87; outdoorresearch.com

—C.K.

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STRAIGHT TALK

0 3 .17

ANNA PFAFF THIS ACCLAIMED ALPINIST FINDS TIME TO SCALE EXTREME GRANITE TOWERS IN BETWEEN HER WORK AS A TRAUMA NURSE. WHAT MAKES HER TICK?

by CHRIS VAN LEUVEN

D

enver. Lyons. Boulder.

Carbondale. Ouray.

Intermittently over the past decade, trauma nurse Anna Pfaff has called all these places home.

That’s when she’s stateside. Pfaff averages two international climbing expeditions a year. And in addition to her nursing work in the States, she also volunteers her time at a medical clinic in Santa Cruz, Bolivia.

Pfaff first climbed rock and ice in her early 20s while attending University of Colorado Denver. She loved it immediately and began climbing almost daily. That path led her to Argentine Patagonia to climb its famed, granite towers. She has since completed numerous first ascents and multiple new routes around the world, as a sponsored North Face, CAMP, La Sportiva and Bluewater Ropes athlete (among other brands).

She recently told us how she manages it all.

WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST MEMORABLE CLIMB IN COLORADO?

Eldorado Canyon’s classic Bastille Crack (5.7, 350’). I was really scared, 18

but I led it all the way to the top.

I enjoyed the fear and the process of overcoming it. Then I tried ice climbing in Clear Creek Canyon and I was immediately hooked on ice climbing, too.

WHAT DID YOU DO AFTER COLLEGE?

I spent several seasons in Yosemite.

That’s where I learned to climb big walls and cracks. During that time, I gained skills that I use all the time now on bigger objectives.

HOW DO YOU BALANCE WORK AND TRAVEL?

My nursing schedule varies according to my climbing schedule.

Some months I’ll work four days, others 20. I love nursing just as much as climbing.

WHY EXPEDITIONS?

I’ve always had a drive to visit remote and unknown places. That’s just how my mind works. I love the entire process of researching an area, getting there, and being open to the challenges involved in new routing in unknown terrain.

WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR MOST MEMORABLE EXPERIENCES IN COLORADO’S MOUNTAINS?

A few years ago, I spent a week climbing several classic Ouray ice routes with a good friend. We did Bird Brain Boulevard, Ames Ice Hose, Bridalveil Falls, Stairway to

E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / M A R C H 2 017

Heaven and The Ribbon. It was like a greatest-hits tour.

MIXING IT UP: PFAFF DIGS INTO “CAFETERIA” (M4/M5) IN OURAY. photo by JEFF RUEPPEL

WHAT ARE A FEW HIGHLIGHTS AND LOW POINTS FROM YOUR INTERNATIONAL TRIPS?

So many ups and downs. Major highlights are when an expedition or climb goes well, good decisions are made and everyone is safe. The partnerships are important.

A major low point was getting stuck alone for a week in Pakistan, in 2011, due to conflicts in the country. I had an expired visa and I wasn’t sure I was going to be able to make it out.

I broke my foot climbing the 1,550-meter northwest ridge of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, in 2012, when falling rock crushed my heel. We had to keep climbing because of the traversing nature of the route. We ended up summiting and made it back without a rescue, so it was kind of a high and low!

HOW DO TRAUMA NURSING AND ALPINE CLIMBING COMPARE?

They share a similar paradox— they are complicated yet simple at the same time. You can try and anticipate the outcome [in either scenario] but when the unpredictable happens, you must rapidly yet precisely change your plan. In the mountains, when say, you drop a belay device or core shot the rope, you have to adapt on the fly.

TELL US ABOUT VOLUNTEER MEDICAL NURSING IN SANTA CRUZ, BOLIVIA.

I’ve been working with Mission of Hope Bolivia, an organization that provides basic medical and surgical care to those in need. I go back in April to help with surgeries.

Sometimes patients wait years to get the life-changing surgeries that the clinic provides.

WHAT’S NEXT?

I’ll be hanging out in the Canadian Rockies for the next few months, then heading to Alaska for the alpine season this spring. I have a return trip to the Indian Himalaya planned for this summer.

I UNDERSTAND YOU’VE BEEN WRITING ABOUT YOUR TRAVELS. WHERE CAN PEOPLE READ IT?

I have a story in the Spring 2017 issue of Alpinist about climbing in remote areas in the world and overcoming the challenges that come with it. It’s about why I’m drawn to exploratory climbing.

Follow Anna Pfaff on Instagram @pfaff_anna and check out her website annapfaff.com.

READER POLL RESULTS

0 3 .17

ROCKIES 2017

BUSINESSES BEST OUTDOOR-BASED COMPANY TO WORK FOR American Adventure Expeditions, Buena Vista, CO The infectious stoke level of the company’s well educated and happily employed guides, keeps them coming back to work here. americanadventure.com RUNNERS UP: Verde Brand Communications, Outdoor Industry Association

BEST APRÈS SPOT The Jailhouse Craft Beer Bar Buena Vista, CO Craft beer and jail? It’s a match made in heaven. Plus, the combination of an exceptional beer list and history and decor put this spot over the top. thejailhousebv.com RUNNERS UP: T-Bar Steamboat, Upslope Brewing Company

BEST BIKE RETAIL SHOP Orange Peel Bicycle Steamboat Spring, CO It's no surprise this local's favorite in Bike Town USA won. orangepeelbikes.com RUNNERS UP: Absolute Bikes, Cycles of Life Leadville 20

BEST BIKE GUIDE SERVICE Beer and Bike Tours Fort Collins, CO What better way to explore a town than hopping on a bike?

Throw in stops at breweries along the way, and you have a winner. beerandbiketours.com RUNNERS UP: At Your Pace, Colorado Wilderness Rides and Guides

BEST BREWERY Ska, Durango, CO When you make some of the best beer in the region and call Durango home, you’re practically a shoo-in for best brewery. skabrewing.com RUNNERS UP: Elevation, Upslope

BEST CIDERY Colorado Cider Company Denver, CO Ciders aren’t just a passing fad or craft beer’s weird younger sibling anymore. This Denver producer topped our list. coloradocider.com RUNNERS UP: Big B's, C Squared

BEST CLIMBING GUIDE SERVICE Pikes Peak Alpine School Colorado Springs, CO Pikes Peak Alpine School

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THREADS WITH CRED: PAGOSA SPRINGS-BASED VOORMI LANDED TOP HONORS FOR BEST OUTDOOR GEAR BRAND IN THE ROCKIES. photo courtesy VOORMI

How is it even possible to choose the best businesses, destinations and events in the Rocky Mountain Region?

We trust our readers. So we asked them to nominate and then vote with their hearts in categories in a region that includes Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, Wyoming, Montana and Idaho. Of course, there is no one single best out there, but the winners here garnered the love and admiration of the people who trust this magazine as their source to go outside and play.

by LILY KRASS AND TYRA SUTAK gets newbies and vets out on snow, rock and ice. Plus, they offer avalanche safety classes. pikespeakalpineschool.com RUNNERS UP: San Juan Mountain Guides, Vetta Mountain Guide

BEST CLIMBING GYM CityROCK Colorado Springs, CO Forty-three-foot walls, 3,500 square feet of bouldering surface area, 15,000 square feet of roped climbing and a specially designed area for kids put CityROCK over the top. climbcityrock.com RUNNERS UP: EarthTreks, Movement

BEST COFFEE SHOP The Buena Vista Roastery and Café, Buena Vista, CO Sustainably-minded coffee in one of Colorado's best towns is a winner. Be sure to sign up for the shop’s awesome coffee-of-themonth membership. bvroastery.com RUNNERS UP: Camp 4 Coffee, City on a Hill Coffee

BEST DISPENSARY Terrapin Care Station, CO Terrapin offers a variety of homegrown strains, and serves communities throughout Colorado. terrapincarestation.com RUNNERS UP: Nature’s Medicine, LivWell

BEST DISTILLERY Wyoming Whiskey, Kirby, WY This independent, family-owned distillery makes damn good whiskey. wyomingwhiskey.com RUNNERS UP: Deerhammer, Woods

BEST HIKING GUIDE Aspen Alpine Guides Aspen, CO Hut trips, avy courses, winter programs, summer programs— Aspen Alpine Guides offers it all. aspenalpine.com RUNNERS UP: Colorado Wilderness Rides and Guides, Glacier Guides

BEST OUTDOOR GEAR BRAND Voormi, Pagosa Springs, CO

BEST WHITEWATER GUIDE SERVICE AVA Colorado Rafting

BEST YOGA STUDIO Colorado School of Yoga Boulder, CO

BEST WHITEWATER RUN The Numbers Arkansas River, CO

If you’ve ever donned one of Voormi’s thoughtfully-crafted and comfortable pieces of apparel, you’ll understand why. voormi.com RUNNERS UP: Melanzana, Big Agnes

From whitewater rafting trips for beginners, to advanced epic expeditions, AVA has an excellent reputation in the adventure community. coloradorafting.net RUNNERS UP: American Adventure Expeditions, RMOC

This studio puts the focus on training teachers to better help us walk in the world. coloradoschoolofyoga.org RUNNERS UP: Jala Blue, Freeman Yoga

One of the best Class IV+ rapids along the Arkansas River, the Numbers is made up of seven major rapids in just under six miles.

RUNNERS UP: Oh Be Joyful, Crested Butte, CO, Snake River, WY

BEST NON-PROFIT UpaDowna Colorado Springs, CO

BEST SUP SPOT Buena Vista Whitewater Park Buena Vista, CO

This inclusive non-profit’s mission is to provide access to outdoor adventures for all through events and programs that empower individuals, create healthier communities, and foster a respect for the environment. upadowna.org RUNNERS UP: Southwest Utah Wilderness Alliance, First Descents

With five main whitewater structures catering to all ability levels, the whitewater park runs through downtown Buena Vista.

RUNNERS UP: Lower Gunnison from Pleasure Park Down, CO; Ruby Horsethief, CO/UT

BEST OUTDOOR APP ViewRanger ViewRanger wowed readers by continuing to be the most innovative GPS app out there. viewranger.com RUNNERS UP: Mountain Project, Open Snow

BEST OUTDOOR JOB TITLE Gear Tester

BEST WINERY Vino Salida, Salida, CO Vino Salida serves up house-made wines and wine cocktails seven days a week. vinosalida.com RUNNERS UP: Two Rivers Winery, Infinite Monkey Theorem

Why, we happen to be quite familiar with that term.

RUNNERS UP: raft guide, avalanche forecaster

Open to tents or van lifers this camp takes full advantage of Snow Mountain Ranch's facilities. snowmountainranch.org RUNNERS UP: Fruita, Capitol Reef, UT; Goblin Valley, UT

BEST OUTDOOR RETAIL SHOP Mountain Chalet Colorado Springs, CO New owners have breathed new vitality into this icon in the Springs. mountainchalet.com RUNNERS UP: CKS Main, Bentgate Mountaineering

BEST DOG FRIENDLY OUTDOOR DESTINATION Gunnison, CO

BEST OUTDOOR START-UP Mountain Standard Boulder, CO This Boulder-based brand is selling directly to the consumer, keeping the cost for their highquality goods awesomely low. mountainstandard.com RUNNERS UP: Grass Sticks, Gociety

BEST RESTAURANT Hell’s Backbone Grill Boulder, UT It's in one of the most remote towns in the country, but it’s home to one of the most celebrated restaurants in the West. hellsbackbonegrill.com RUNNERS UP: House Rock Kitchen, Bin 707 Grand Junction

BEST RUNNING RETAIL SHOP

Twisted Trails Steamboat, CO

Weekly “beer runs” and top-of-theline gear and helpful staff earned this small town shop the nod. twistedtrailsrunning.com RUNNERS UP: Oxygen Hog, Boulder Running Company

BEST CAMPGROUND Hopi Campground, Snow Mountain Ranch, CO

BEST RESORT?: IT’S CRESTED BUTTE, OF COURSE. photo by TRENT BONA/CBMR

DESTINATIONS BEST ADVENTURE PARK Browns Canyon Adventure Park Buena Vista, CO You have to love 66 unique obstacles and seven different zip lines. brownscanyonadventurepark.com RUNNERS UP: Glenwood Springs Adventure Park, CO; Royal Gorge Adventure Park, CO

BEST CLIMBING CRAG Shelf Road, CO Climbers of all levels can hone their skills on 800+ routes at one of the most well maintained rock climbing areas in the country.

RUNNERS UP: Indian Creek, UT; Eldorado Canyon, CO

BEST BOULDERING AREA Vedauwoo, Wyoming Know best for its off-widths, Vedauwoo has a huge variety

of bouldering problems and few crowds.

RUNNERS UP: Joe's Valley, UT, Clear Creek Canyon, CO

BEST HIKING TRAIL Mill Castle Trail Gunnison, CO This epic trail takes you through the West Elk Wilderness with a steep ascent over Storm Pass at 12,440 feet.

RUNNERS UP: Copper Lake/East Maroon Pass, Aspen, CO; Emerald Lake, MT

BEST RUNNING TRAIL Snodgrass, Crested Butte, CO With an elevation gain of 1,421 feet, this six-mile out-and-back is a perfect, moderate-level trail run.

RUNNERS UP: Soldier Ridge Trail, Sheridan, WY, Bridger Ridge, MT

Many of Gunnison’s hotels are happy to welcome your furry friends—then get out and play together.

RUNNERS UP: Pagosa Springs, CO, and Boulder, CO (TIE)

BEST FLY FISHING RIVER Arkansas, CO With 102 river miles, the Arkansas River claims one of the longest stretches of Gold Medal water in North America.

RUNNERS UP: Madison, MT; Rio Grande, NM

BEST KID FRIENDLY OUTDOOR DESTINATION Snow Mountain Ranch, CO This YMCA facility near Winter Park has a plethora of activities for all ages, all year round. Activities include whitewater rafting, ziplining, horseback riding, winter dog sledding, fat bike rentals, you name it. snowmountainranch.org RUNNERS UP: Buena Vista, CO; Vail Adventure Ridge, CO

BEST MOUNTAIN BIKING TRAIL Doctor Park, Crested Butte, CO This 19.3 mile fun ride gives intermediate to downhill riders the

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thrills they seek.

RUNNERS UP: Lunch Loops, Grand Junction, CO; RAT Trails, Ridgway, CO

BEST MOUNTAIN SUMMIT Mt. Princeton, CO Towering over the Arkansas River Valley at 14, 197 feet, Mt. Princeton is a burly but rewarding hike.

From the main trailhead outside of Buena Vista, climb 5,400 feet in just under 7 miles.

RUNNERS UP: Mt. Sneffels, CO; Longs Peak, CO

BEST PLACE FOR OUTDOOR SINGLES TO LIVE Fort Collins, CO With a vibrant nightlife and a flourishing craft brew scene, it’s the perfect place to expand your social circle and maybe you will meet that special someone.

RUNNERS UP: Golden, CO; Bozeman, MT

BEST ROAD BIKE RIDE Cottonwood Pass, CO At 12,126 feet, Cottonwood Pass is the third highest paved road in Colorado. Steep switchbacks and

breathtaking scenery make it an iconic and challenging ride.

RUNNERS UP: Colorado National Monument CO; Independence Pass, CO

BEST SKI/SNOWBOARD RESORT Crested Butte Mountain Resort Crested Butte, CO

best resort, it also took home the honors when it comes to the best terrain in area, thanks, no doubt, to classic gnarly stuff like the Headwall and Teocalli Bowl. skicb.com RUNNERS UP: Palmyra Peak, Telluride, CO; Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, WY (TIE)

BEST TERRAIN PARK Breckenridge Ski Resort, CO

With 15 lifts and 121 trails, Crested With 14 Butte has no jumps, 75 shortage of rails, boxes, fun terrain wallrides, for all ability jibs and levels. Skiing bonks along not your thing? with a 222017 Take a snowshoe foot superpipe, tour, rent a fat Breck’s terrain parks bike, or enjoy CBMR’s aren’t messing around. adventure park. breckenridge.com skicb.com RUNNERS UP: Woodward at Copper RUNNERS UP: Copper Mountain, CO; Mountain, CO; Area 51 Keystone, Big Sky, MT CO

ROCKIES

BEST INBOUNDS SKI/ SNOWBOARD TERRAIN Crested Butte Mountain Resort Crested Butte, CO Not only did CB win all-around

Voted THE BEST!

BEST URBAN PARK Palmer Park Colorado Springs, CO

Palmer Park has 25 miles of hiking and biking trails, picnic areas and an off-leash dog park. cospringstrails.com RUNNERS UP: Kendrick Park, Sheridan, WY; Fairmont Park, Salt Lake City, UT

BEST WATER PARK Buena Vista Whitewater Park Buena Vista, CO Kayakers, stand up paddlers and picnickers alike will tell you that the Buena Vista Whitewater Park is one of the best spots in the state.

Hit the shops and eats on South Main when you are done playing. southmainco.com RUNNERS UP: Green River Whitewater Park, WY; Montrose Water Park, CO

BEST WILDERNESS AREA Indian Peaks Wilderness, CO Here you get 76,711 acres of lakes, waterfalls, and jagged peaks claiming elevations ranging from 8,300 to 13,500 feet, all within a short drive from Denver.

RUNNERS UP: Frank Church-River of No Return, ID; Bridger, WY

Sitting on 740 acres, smack dab in the middle of Colorado Springs,

p,, up it u g ivee it giv ew rew br y ub ou yo s! ks! nk p un pu

Ned Ned * Race

to Benefit TEENS, Inc. 5k / 10k / Half Marathon

Saturday, September 9, 2017 A 30+ Year Race in the cool mountain air West of Boulder in Nederland, Colorado

REGISTER: www.teensinc.org 22

E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / M A R C H 2 017

MARCH MODUS

JOIN THE MADNESS • SKABREWING.COM

ALWAYS BE WINNING: PADDLE THE BEST WHITEWATER OF BROWNS CANYON ON THE ARKANSAS, WHICH ALSO TOOK HOME HONORS AS BEST FLY-FISHING RIVER AND HOSTS THE BEST MULTI-SPORT EVENT, CKS PADDLEFEST (LEFT). DROP IN AT THE BEST WARRIOR RUN/ MUDRACE, AXS MOAB ADVENTURE RACE IN UTAH (RIGHT). photo by SCOTT PETERSON (LEFT), courtesy AXS (RIGHT)

EVENTS BEST BEER FESTIVAL Chili and Beer Crested Butte, CO The only thing that can beat beer: chili! Saturday, Sept 9, 2017. cbchamber.com/events/beer-andchili-festival RUNNERS UP: Colorado Cider and Beer Circus, Copper Mountain, CO; Breckenridge Beer Fest, Breckenridge, CO (TIE)

BEST CLIMBING EVENT Ouray Ice Festival, Ouray, CO There is no bigger celebration of the sport of ice climbing on the planet and no better place to enjoy it than at this ice park made for and by climbers. January 2018. ourayicepark.com/ouray-icefestival RUNNERS UP: WSCU Climbing Comps, Gunnison, CO; International Climbers Festival, Lander, WY

BEST COSTUMED EVENT Steamboat Springs Mustache Ride, Steamboat, Colorado Yes, it's a pub crawl in costume, but it's also a fundraiser for the Routt County Humane Society.

Oct. 7, 2017. ssmustacheride.com RUNNERS UP: Al Johnson Telemark Race, Crested Butte, CO; Tour de Fat, Fort Collins, CO

BEST CYCLOCROSS RACE New Mexico Cyclocross Series With races across the state,

this comprehensive series has something for every level of rider. mcyclocross.com RUNNERS UP: Ogden Cyclocross, UT; Waffle Cross, Boise, ID (TIE)

BEST MOUNTAIN BIKE RACE Beti Bike Bash Castle Rock, CO This week of celebration culminates in a rollicking women's mountain bike race for all levels. June 4, 2017. betibikebash.com RUNNERS UP: Growler, Gunnison, CO; Fat Bike World Championship, Crested Butte, CO

BEST MULTISPORT FESTIVAL CKS Paddlefest Buena Vista, CO It may have began as a paddling event, but it has evolved into so much more with everything from music to bouldering to running races and more. May 26-29, 2017. ckspaddlefest.com RUNNERS UP: GoPro Mountain Games, Vail, CO; Rocky Mountain State Games, Colorado Springs, CO

BEST MUSIC FESTIVAL Targhee Fest, Wyoming You want a real music festival in the mountains? Get to Wyoming. June 14-16, 2017. grandtarghee.com RUNNERS UP: Upslope Get Down, Boulder, CO; WinterWonderGrass, Steamboat, CO

BEST PADDLING EVENT Golden Games, Golden, CO Backed by the local community, this event just keeps growing. May 19-21, 2017. racedirectorsolutions.com RUNNERS UP: CKS Paddlefest, Buena Vista, CO; FibArk, Salida, CO

BEST ROAD BIKE RACE West Elk Bicycle Classic, CO Sadly, our readers choice for best road bike race is cancelled this year. But it hopes to return— maybe this award will help. westelkbicycleclassic.com RUNNERS UP: Copper Triangle, CO; Silver City Tour of the Gila, NM

ROWDIEST OUTDOOR EVENT Boom Days, Leadville, CO Yes, Leadville is still the type of place you could get yourself beat up—or just have a real mountaintown blast at this festival. August 4-6, 2017. leadvilleboomdays.org RUNNERS UP: Late Night Fibark, Salida, CO; Wind River Mountain Festival, Pinedale, WY

BEST RUNNING RACE Ned Ned, Nederland, CO With none of the pretense of other running races, this family friendly costumed event combines a 5K, 10K and dirt/road half marathon— and it reeks of Ned. teensinc.org/nedned-race

RUNNERS UP: Leadville Trail 100 Run, Leadville, CO; Bolder Boulder, Boulder, CO

TOUGHEST RACE OR EVENT Gore-tex Grand Traverse, Crested Butte, CO Competitiors race the clock and brave storms in the middle of the night to gut it through the 40-mile ski from Crested Butte to Aspen. thegrandtraverse.org RUNNERS UP: Hardrock 100, Silverton, CO; West Elk Classic, Gunnison, CO

BEST TRIATHLON CB3P, Crested Butte, CO Starting in Mt. Crested Butte and finishing in Gunnison, this multisport triathlon combines uphill/ downhill skiing, road biking and kayaking. crestedbutte3p.com RUNNERS UP: Ironman Boulder 70.3, Boulder, CO; Toughman Utah, Provo, UT

BEST WARRIOR/MUD RUN RACE AXS Moab Adventure Race Moab, Utah Tough it out mountain biking, kayaking the Colorado River and rappeling down a 300-foot cliff in this blast of an adventure. April 22, 2017. axsracing.com/moab RUNNERS UP: Montana Warrior Run, Billings, MT; Dirty Girl Mud Run, Copper, CO

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CUBA

The once-forbidden island has become the darling destination of adventurous Americans looking to expand their travel horizons. So what’s the secret to making the most of a trip to Cuba? We give you insight on how to embrace the outdoors and the island’s warm, unique culture as a respectful visitor.

by CHRIS KASSAR

M

usic floats over the thick, warm air, people dance at an outdoor café, two lovers sit on a bench staring into each other’s eyes, a man walks by calling out “pan, pan (bread, bread)!” and periodic bursts of shouting emerge from a pack of men enthralled in a game of Dominoes. In an attempt to stop perspiring for a minute, we grab a shady bench at the corner of this tree-lined park nestled in Santiago de Cuba, the country’s second largest city (and a must-visit locale), and settle in to absorb it all.

During our month-long bikepacking adventure through Cuba, we spent almost as much time soaking up the lively culture—full of music, dancing and celebration—as we did exploring natural wonders.

When travel regulations eased, we were psyched, but ironically, we also felt an urgency to visit before it changed—one way or another. We arrived just days after Castro’s death to a country on the brink of big changes.

It’s clear that this complicated island— with cars from the fifties, clothes from the eighties, and timeless beauty—has an eye pointed toward the future— whatever it holds.

If Cuba has been on your bucket list, it’s time to make a trip there happen. Here’s how we did it—with tips on outdoor adventures and the best ways to enjoy your visit.

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HIKE IN VIÑALES

Most of Elevation Outdoors readers shy away from guided experiences, but a guide is the only way to explore Viñales National Park, an extraordinary reserve in western Cuba teeming with rich plant and bird life and where people live in harmony with the landscape. During our exploration with a park guide, we saw exquisite views of jungle-covered cliffs and limestone monoliths (mogotes) rising steeply from broad valleys where farmers cultivate the rust-colored soil. Our favorite part of this amazing journey: spending an hour at a small tobacco farm where Leonardo, a weathered, sombreroclad guajiro invited us into a thatched shack. Surrounded by strands of dried wrinkled tobacco, he rolled us a cigar and explained the time intensive process required to turn seeds into the coveted Cuban cigarro puro.

VISIT TRINIDAD & PLAYA ANCON

We ended up in Trinidad because the bus we wanted to take to Santiago de Cuba was booked—and we quickly fell in love with this quaint, colorful city, rich in cultural attractions and surrounded by stunning natural splendor. Our first morning, we feasted on a breakfast of tropical fruit salad, eggs, bread, cheese, ham, mango juice and amazing

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coffee accompanied by a local sound track—the clip-clop of horse hooves on cobble streets and of song birds chirping like a chorus. Then we hopped on our bikes and went to Playa Ancon, a sparkling white sand beach bordered by warm, salty waves.

Though you can take a taxi here, the best way to enjoy the place is to rent a bike and take in a 37-kilometer (23mile) loop ride that starts Trinadad.

Head counterclockwise and it's a magnificent adventure that traces the rugged, rocky coast near the small seaside village of La Boca.

The return route rewards riders with a spectacular sight (especially at sunset): the turquoise waters of the Caribbean spreading before the lush Sierra del Escambray (Escambray Mountains) on the distant horizon.

At night, hit the Casa de la Musica, an outdoor venue where locals and tourists gather to experience highcaliber Cuban music and of course, to celebrate life by dancing until all hours of the night. Even if you’re not ready to strut your salsa skills, grab a seat, a mojito (or two or three), and absorb the palpable and contagious energy of the place.

CASH CROP: HIRE A GUIDE AND ENJOY THE TOBACCO FIELDS AND LIMESTONE MOGOTES OF VIÑALES NATIONAL PARK. photo by CHRIS KASSAR

CLIMB CUBA’S HIGHEST PEAK

RIDE THE SOUTH COAST

Grueling. That’s the only word to accurately describe the hike up 6,476foot Pico Turquino, a lush cloud-

forest covered peak that rises straight out of the sparkling Caribbean sea.

From Las Cuevas, a tiny village with no amenities, you gain almost 2,000 meters in 10 kilometers (6,562 feet in just over 6 miles) with very few switchbacks, also summiting Pico Cuba (1,872 meters, 6,142 feet), the country’s second highest peak on the way. This is officially a military area, so guides are required, so arrange the climb at the trailhead a day before or book in advance. Stay in a nearby town or if you don't mind extremely rustic conditions, you can crash at the very basic visitor center the night before the climb.

This is one of the most important historical places in Cuba, too: The Gran Parque Nacional Sierra Maestra, which holds Pico Turquino, is the remote jungle area where Che Guevara and Fidel Castro based their rebels when they undertook the revolution that overthrew dictator Fulgencio Batista and turned the island into a Communist nation.

To experience raw natural beauty of the island itself, pedal the 180-kilometer (112-mile) road between Santiago de Cuba and Pilón,

a small, isolated coastal town, famed for its blue waters and a style of music with its roots in the rhythm of pounding sugarcane. This wild, lonely route hugs the rocky shore, climbs over headlands and drops back down to the sea—it gets so close in spots that ocean spray kisses your face. (The ride made for some of our most memorable days on the island). Portions of the route are unpaved and washed out by recent hurricanes, but bikes can more than handle them. And road traffic is light. (Note: You can pair this ride with a climb of Pico Turquino).

THE NUTS AND BOLTS Follow these important steps to get your Cuban adventure going:

•

GET THERE With many airlines offering direct flights, getting there has never been easier. You can find fares right now on Frontier from Denver for $400-$500 round-trip.

Book the flight just like any other and buy your tourists card visa through the airline (Frontier charges $110 and mails it to you after you apply on-line). You’ll have to state the reason you’re traveling to Cuba (see Make it Legit) when you buy it.

ENJOY SANTIAGO DE CUBA

Fewer tourists venture to this capital of the southern province of Santiago de Cuba, 475 miles from Havana.

It's a short flight or a 12-hour train ride from the capital, but well worth the effort. The lack of foreigners here means this bustling city gives visitors a true sense of Cuba’s history and diversity. We enjoyed exploring the busy streets, which were always full of musical rhythms and chatter.

For the best view in town and some solitude, tackle a series of steep, narrow stairs that lead to the bell tower of the Catedral de la Asunción, first built in 1514 when the Spanish began to colonize the island. It's set a few feet from the right of the Parque Cespedes, a city square perpetually abuzz with activity.

FIVE INSIDER TIPS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: 1) STAY & EAT IN CASA PARTICULARS: Roll into almost any town and you’ll find a number of people ready to welcome you into their houses. These private homestays vary from a room in a house to a separate bungalow with a rooftop deck, but all share similar critical characteristics: private bathroom, affordable prices, stocked mini-fridge, a homey feel and the priceless opportunity to interact with warm, kind locals full of knowledge.

Casa owners also cooked us tasty, authentic meals made with love that were, without fail, the best and most affordable food we ate in Cuba.

2) BE FLEXIBLE: This isn’t the U.S. or Europe—why you’ve come—so bring realistic expectations. Avoid trains; they consistently break down, sometimes

for days. Buses are more reliable, but there is no consistency regarding how you reserve a spot or buy a ticket.

Buses are often full, so have a backup plan (go somewhere different on a whim that’s in the general direction you want to head) or spend an extra day or two in given location,until you can get a bus to your desired destination. Lines at banks and money exchanges often require at least half a day and restaurants may be out of a number of items on the menu. While they may seem hard to overcome (hint: Get to a bank a half hour before it opens or change enough money at the airport or a hotel so you don't have to change any more money), these are minor annoyances, and your trip will be much more pleasurable if you can embrace the quirkiness of it all as part of the cultural experience.

3) RIDE YOUR BIKE OR GET YOUR OWN TRANSPORT: Controlling your movement throughout the country can help ease the challenges of dealing with unreliable transport (see “Be Flexible”). Pedaling bikes allowed us to move when and how we wished, and since many Cubans also ride bikes for transportation, we also had a more authentic exploration

HEAD BACK IN TIME: RIDE FROM TRINIDAD TO PLAYA ANCON (TOP). VINTAGE VEHICLES IN VIÑALES NATIONAL PARK (BOTTOM). photos by CHRIS KASSAR

experience. Renting a car is always an option, however, you have to be comfortable driving in a place where traffic rules are very different and sometimes ignored.

4) LEARN SPANISH: We didn’t find many Cubans who spoke English, but as Spanish speakers we didn’t worry.

At least learn the basics so you can order food, buy a bus ticket, get a room, follow directions and make conversation with casa owners.

5) INTERACT WITH AS MANY CUBANS AS YOU CAN: Every local we got to know—casa owners, taxi drivers, guides and random others—won our hearts with their curiosity, politeness, openness and willingness to share their homes, time, dreams, hopes, beliefs and honest thoughts about the US and about Cuba. Though the astounding beauty and the vibrant music made an impression, the warm, proud people, who were outwardly passionate about country, family, learning and finding out about the rest of the world left an indelible mark on our hearts.

MAKE IT LEGIT •Tourism is still illegal for U.S. residents, but as long as you fall under one of 12 approved categories, including educational activities, professional research and support of the Cuban people, etc, you can go without a special visa. Get details here: treasury.gov/ resource-center/sanctions/ Programs/Pages/cuba.aspx REMEMBER, CASH •IS KING At present, U.S. credit and debit cards don’t work (even for ATM withdrawals) so you’ll need cash. Cuba charges a ten percent tax on U.S. dollars, so bring Euros, Pounds or Canadian dollars, which get a better exchange rate and aren’t subject to the same hefty tax. We budgeted $50 per person/ per day—that was more than enough even with splurges including a joy ride in an ocean blue Chevy Bel Air and plenty of gifts for family and friends.

—C.K.

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COLORADO T R AV E L G U ID E

FI N D YO U R COLOR AD O

There’s one problem with this state. It’s just so big and so rad, that it’s hard to decide exactly where you want to go for adventure when it’s time to roam. Don’t fret. This travel guide will get you pointed in the right direction and make that oh-so-difficult decision of just where to get outside and play in this mind-blowing state

SALIDA

B U E N A V I S TA

Visitors to Salida will find a real town with real people and a great mix of stores, restaurants, shops, and art galleries that fill Colorado’s largest historic district.

Located on the Arkansas River and just down the road from Monarch Mountain, Salida is a unique Colorado winter destination. Learn how to get half-price lift tickets to Monarch Mountain and plan your hot springs visits and other cool adventures by ordering a free visitors guide at ColorfulColorado.com.

Buena Vista, Colorado, is best known for whitewater rafting in the summer, but explore the town during the winter, and you will find hundreds of miles of groomed snowmobile trails—or try cross-country skiing or snowshoeing to some of Colorado’s best ghost towns.

The historic downtown along the Arkansas River offers art galleries, restaurants, a brewery and a distillery. Plan your hot springs visits and cool adventures by ordering a free visitors guide at ColorfulColorado.com.

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much easier.

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S P E C I A L A DV E RT I S I N G S E C T I O N

KRISTI MTN SPORTS

FRISCO

S I LV E R T O N

Outdoor adventure in Southern Colorado starts with us—surrounded by multiple fourteeners, incredible hiking and mountain biking trails, climbing crags, the Great Sand Dunes National Park and much more!

When planning your getaway, make sure to save a day to sandboard the tallest sand dunes in North America.

Specially designed boards and sleds available to rent at Kristi Mountain Sports offer an exhilarating and unique sliding experience for the entire family.

Call to reserve yours today!

Frisco is sandwiched between six classic Colorado ski resorts including Copper Mountain, Breckenridge, Arapahoe Basin and Vail. This, along with access to miles of trails and a charming Main Street, make Frisco and its wallet-friendly lodging an ideal basecamp for launching a mountain adventure. Frisco is a hidden gem with out-of-the-box shopping and eclectic dining, which has escaped the crush of tourism to retain the welcoming and quirky character of a quintessential Western mountain town.

Silverton Colorado sits at 9318’ elevation feet high in the San Juan Mountains. This quaint and charming true rugged mountain town is an epicenter for backcountry enthusiaists as well as the final destinnation for the Durango Silverton Narrow Guage Train. We have year-round activities and we are the basecamp to the San Juans. If you enjoy hiking, biking, rafting, fishing, camping, jeeping, OHVs, skiing, snowmobiling, snowshoeing, Nordic skking or fat biking, we have it all.

Check our website for year-round events!

719.589.9759 KRISTIMOUNTAINSPORTS.COM

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PA L I S A D E

ASPEN BACKCOUNTRY M A R AT H O N & H A L F M A R AT H O N

On August 12, 2017, get your legs and lungs ready for Welcome to the gateway to the Grand Valley. The air the best singletrack race you will ever run (and the and countryside of this agricultural paradise will keep most scenic)! Utilizing the amazing trails that surround your outdoor spirits soaring. Whether you prefer a casual cruise through the orchards and vineyards or an Aspen, this marathon and half marathon is run almost exclusively on singletrack, starting and ending in adventurous ride on the Palisade Rim Trail, cyclists of all levels will love Palisade. With easy river access and downtown Aspen. The diversity and elevation gain will challenge even the well trained athlete. Total prizes equipment rentals, Palisade is also a hot spot for SUP, rafting or casual float trips. Fill your weekend with wine are worth over $8,000. Space is limited to 250 for the marathon and 250 for the half marathon. tours, quaint bistros and Colorado sunshine.

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BOULDER ADVENTURE LODGE The Boulder Adventure Lodge (A-Lodge for short) is located along Fourmile Creek, five minutes from downtown Boulder. With easy access to Boulder’s rock climbing, fly fishing, trail running and mountain biking, the A-Lodge is situated in an adventure enthusiast’s dream spot-----. Updated linens, a slackline park, new paint, Jeremy Collins’ art and a brand-new lobby coming in early Summer are just some of the key updated amenities at the lodge. Make the A-Lodge the gateway to your Colorado adventure.

303.444.0882 | A-LODGE.COM M A R C H 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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Moots Pivot Transition Salsa Kona

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Designed and built by Into The Wild Overland in Colorado, the Boreas series trailers are a true off-road and off-the-grid camper. With heavy duty Timbren Axel-Less Suspension and oversized all terrain tires standard on all our models these campers are hungry for exploration. With options ranging from solar charge systems to full stainless steel kitchens the Boreas trailers make it easy for anything from weekend excursions to extended overland adventures. ITWoverland.com

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LUXURY? SWEET! YOU COULD BLOW A BUNCH OF CASH ON A HOTEL ROOM YOU NEVER SEE UNTIL YOU GO TO SLEEP... OR WAKE UP TO A NORTH SHORE BEACH.

#RENTAVANLIFE WHY BOTHER SPENDING MONEY ON HOTELS WHEN YOU CAN JUST POCKET THE CASH AND LIVE OUT OF RENTAL CAR?

by DEVON BALET

F

ull disclosure: That van, the 1990 Chevy Astro, you see down by the river? It’s mine.

It’s been my longest running habitat since leaving my parents' house some 15 years ago.

As someone who’s constantly traveling, I have a hard time coughing up to pay rent for a house that I’d hardly use throughout the year.

Writers like Edward Abbey and Jack Kerouac tug at my heartstrings. They make me think I should have lived 40 years ago, sticking my thumb in the air, traveling across country with a backpack and my ethos. And so my life has been one on the road.

One of my most recent winter travels found me heading to Maui.

The first two days, I’d shoot some family portraits, then I'd head to the wedding of an old friend. After the wedding I’d explore Maui, surf and swim. I’d eat fish, and drink ample amounts of coffee. Now how does

I wanted to wake up to waves with minimal covers and less clothing. With a van-slash-hotel set up, my Hawaiian paradise dreams were soon to come true.

One Who Inhabits a Van travel in Maui? Reserve a U-Haul cargo van for 10 days, of course.

The plan was perfect. I’d save money, avoiding hotels and resorts.

The U-Haul would offer ample room for camera gear—and sleeping space, if needed. As a cold winter set in on Colorado, I dreamed of nights falling asleep in my underwear and T-shirt, 0-degree sleeping bag long forgotten.

I wanted to wake up to waves with minimal covers and less clothing.

With a van-slash-hotel set up, my Hawaiian paradise dreams would soon unfold.

After a long travel day made

photos by DEVON BALET

longer by delayed flights causing missed flights resulting in a long layover, I finally arrived in Hawaii.

Shedding layers as I took in my first deep breath of the warm air, I set out to find my van. But the airport car rental was closed for the night—no U-Haul! The island had few other options, but after a few hiccups, I drove away in a Mazda3 Sedan.

Windows down, I finally found myself zipping into the warm evening night toward a sushi dinner and some downtime. I was happy to be cruising, happier still to be driving my hotel.

No U-Haul, no problem. While this small sedan was no cargo van, it did have excellent gas mileage. I planned to sleep out in the open, but if rain started to fall, the Mazda3's back seats folded down, giving me just enough room to lay out from inside the cab with legs stretching into the trunk. All of my gear fit in the trunk, making me less conspicuous while parked at beaches or trailheads. It was indeed the perfect bargain hotel for the iconic North Shore roads of Maui.

When it came time to turn in my little sedan, I had a tear in my eye. It had served me perfectly for my time in Hawaii, costing a grand total of just $391 and 22 gallons of gas over 500 miles of driving. One night at a hotel would have cost that or more.

Some may call this being cheap, I call it being smart. I'll sacrifice a bit of creature comfort for more plane tickets and trips. So next time you are considering a vacation, look into a hotel-free experience.

Devon Balet is a Coloradobased (and, ahem, van-based) photographer and longtime contributor to Elevation Outdoors.

You can see his work and follow his travels at devonbaletmedia.com

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FULL OF ADVENTURE. There’s plenty to see and do. Start planning your Cody, Wyoming vacation today. 1-800-393-2639 or yellowstonecountry.org.

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DISTRIBUTED EXCLUSIVELY BY

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7.

BEST GEAR FOR TRAVEL

WITH THE HOMEFRONT A CHAOS OF SOCIAL MEDIA ANGER AND STRESS, IT’S HIGH TIME TO SEEK OUT NEW HORIZONS. HERE ARE OUR PICKS FOR THE BEST GEAR TO GET YOU OUT OF TRUMPLAND.

2.

9.

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

5.

1. FIVE TEN URBAN APPROACH This slick kick looks casual enough for plane rides and touring around town, but there’s more here than meets the eye. A Phantom rubber sticky sole gives it the technical ability for a bit of bouldering (or buildering), and just enough traction for an impromptu hike. $100; fiveten.com

2. JBL N60NC WIRELESS The new wireless version (available starting in April) of these plush headphones will get you through long, noisy flights in comfortable style. With AKG noise-canceling technology specifically designed to eliminate airplane-engine hum, and the ability to fold up neatly so you can stash them in your pack, they’ll accelerate you getting to your special place. $300; akg.com

4.

3.

6.

3. STANLEY CLASSIC VACUUM TRAVEL PRESS Yes, we know you’re a deadbeat without your craft roast—so why not take it everywhere you please?

Stanley’s 16-ounce insulated travel mug is also a French press. Plus, it keeps your java warm for most of the day. $35; stanley-pmi.com

4. TOAD AND CO. DROP-IN SHORT The perfect travel short can handle anything. You won’t worry about tromping through streams (or even spilling coffee all over yourself) with this stretchy, athletic version. The quick-drying material means you can hop in a hot spring and then head out for beers without losing style points. $79; toadandco.com

5. PICTURE ORGANIC CHLOE PUFF Versatility is key in any travel piece, and this reversible, insulated jacket is the one to rely on when you hit the

1.

road. Not only does the Chamonixbased brand understand style, it’s also sustainability-focused with Primaloft ECO stuffing and material spun from plastic bottles recovered from the planet’s oceans. $150; picture-organic-clothing.com

6. EAGLE CREEK CONVERGE BACKPACK This carry-on-meets-rucksack hauls an impressive amount of gear, and fits in the compartment above your seat.

Inside, multiple pockets organize, laptop, cords and essential electronics. $119; eaglecreek.com/converge

7. 686 MULTI JACKET This all-season shell is our new

8.

favorite to deal with all the unexpected weather and conditions of travel. Gore-tex Paclite material keeps it waterproof, breathable and light, and the integrated internal backpack straps mean you can shed on the go without taking off your jacket. Plus, it packs down into its own pocket. $300; 686.com

8. COSTA DEL MAR REEFTON The right pair of sunglasses are fly, while also making you see better.

Costa’s polarized plastic lens technology (or choose from several more technically specific options)

cuts glare on the water (or the highway) and in the mountains—and the frames can take some abuse. $169; costadelmar.com

9. TREW SHIRTWEIGHT DOWN Your new rule: Never travel without a puffy, like this water-resistant version, which offers warmth and comfort while shoving down small enough to fit into the bottom of a pack—until you need loft for a hike or flight that gets suddenly chilly. $185; trewgear.com

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THE ROAD

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FORBIDDEN KINGDOM IN CHINA, A PHOTOGRAPHER FINDS NEAR DEATH IN TRAFFIC, DANGEROUS FOOD, DIRTY EX-PATS AND SOME OF THE BEST LIMESTONE ON THE PLANET. words and photos by ERIC HANSON

T

he wind ruffled the pages of the guidebook as we sped along the highway on a rented moto. Enormous trucks swooshed past us in the opposite direction. I tried just to hold onto the book as we weaved through traffic at high speeds. After all, I was responsible for directions and following the roughly drawn map and bare-bones description of how to find the climbing wall. Jean was responsible for not getting us killed by the many construction trucks on this Chinese highway.

“If you don’t already know how to get there,” the guidebook said, “good luck finding this place.” It was proving to be the challenge as promised.

I met Jean for the first time the night before at the Rusty Bolt, the tavern in Yangshuo where climbers gather to tell stories and make plans over cheap, watery beer. He had just arrived from France and was looking for a climbing partner. My own climbing companions were taking 32

a rest day, but I was eager to get out a quiet road slicing through farmland amongst the crags of Yangshuo. This nestled between karsts. We stopped lovely limestone along the Li River to pantomime to a few farmers the is not only one of the most beautiful international sign for climbing, hands landscapes on Earth, but it’s also one grabbing the air and moving them of the best climbing destinations in up and down. They looked at each China—or anywhere. Thousands other and laughed, then pointed down of “karsts,” or limestone domes and a small dirt road. We followed it towers, erupt out of the landscape as through a farm of squealing pigs and far as the eye can see. eventually came upon a handful of Jean and I sought the Fuli Festival climbers we’d met the night before at Crag, where a few years back, a the Rusty Bolt. It seemed more like bunch of pro and amateur climbers luck than good navigation that we had gathered to made it. develop and It was This lovely limestone along the climb the hell overcast, Li River is not only one of the and the out of a new destination, most beautiful landscapes on temperature tossing dropped Earth, but it’s also one of the had in a little from the best climbing destinations in heat of the competition and a lot of previous China—or anywhere. shenanigans days, perfect along the way. We had already turned for climbing. I had come here to around several times, driving back work on a film project, following and forth and looking for the correct two climbers across China, so it felt turnoff toward the crag. good to be away from the project and Eventually, we found ourselves on getting in some climbing of my own.

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PARADISE: THE SUN RISES OVER LAOJUNSHAN NATIONAL PARK. THE VALLEY IS SURROUNDED BY MANY SANDSTONE SPLITTER CRACKS RIPE FOR CLIMBING.

I led a handful of routes and Jean offered some insight on my technique in his thick French accent. He was a much stronger climber than I, and I was happy to glean from his wisdom.

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hina was surprising me. Yes the cities are crowded and grimy, but once you escape them you find yourself in vast, oddly different landscape, with few Westerners to be found. The food is cheap—and delicious. I soon found that despite the difficult language barrier, it was not too difficult to get around. And best of all, the warm people draw you into the place.

Rural China is still far off the beaten path for Western tourists, which makes it a treasure trove of opportunity for those interested in adventure travel. The vast landscape holds so much beauty. For those with even a small dose of daring in their

blood, China is ripe for exploration.

Favorable exchange rates offer Westerners ample opportunity to travel extensively on a tight budget.

Those with sensitive stomachs need not fear unless you are invited to dine with locals (they’re the ones serving copious amounts of baijui, and chicken parts you shouldn’t look at). Otherwise the menus are scrumptious. The street food is as good as you will find anywhere in the world (personal favorites: steamed dumplings for breakfast and Szechuan style stir fry for dinner).

For outdoor explorers, China is even more surprising. It’s not much heralded as a climbing destination (though some mountaineers may remember the legends Jonny Copp and Micah Dash, who died in an avalanche during a climb on the Gongga Shan massif in China's Western Sichuan Province in 2009).

From the karsts of Yangshuo, to the jungles of Jianjiajhe (a.k.a Avatar land), to the sweeping grasslands of the north, or the massive peaks of Himalayas of the south (where, sadly, China still occupies Tibet), there is no shortage of landscapes to explore.

I

wanted to take them all in. So back at the Rusty Bolt, I met up with Amy and Rhiannon, the climbers I had come to film. The duo were on a yearlong climbing trip around the world and I had joined them for five weeks here in China to document their story. A couple of people got up from the bar to play foosball. The three of us rose our voices over the din of the bar and the street busy with tourists.

“I’m ready to get in some trad.” said Rhiannon. “Maybe we spend a few days at the Le Pei Shan crag and then head to Liming?”

I sipped my Tsingtao and nodded in agreement. That would allow for a few more days here and two weeks of climbing in Liming. We planned to head from Yangshuo to Liming, a mountainous valley, not far from the Burmese border, where there’s a concentration of beautiful sandstone splitter cracks. It’s a remote outpost on China’s climbing scene, but also famed as one of the best destinations in Asia for trad-climbing.

Before I came to China, I thought five weeks would be more than enough to leisurely travel and climb everywhere we desired. But now that I was here, I realized how

Liming has only seen climbing development in the last decade. And although there were plenty of routes to choose from, it appears that development could go on for several more decades before exhausting its potential. how faulty my thinking had been.

Five weeks is hardly enough to scratch the surface of what China had to offer. Obviously, China is geographically huge, but travel here is more time consuming than I anticipated. Trains and buses are the main methods of transport (unless you fly), so plan for multiple days to get anywhere. For example, our bus from the border of Hong Kong to Yangshuo, a marvelous

CULTURAL IMMERSION: CHINA SERVES UP A BIG MIX OF THE OLD (TOP) AND THE NEW, ESPECIALLY AT CRAGS LIKE YANGSHUO, WHERE AMY LIPSCHULTZ TAKES ADVANTAGE OF A BEAUTIFUL KNEE BAR REST ON A CLASSIC LIMESTONE ROUTE.

contraption with about forty beds instead of seats, broke down along the highway … and simply never moved again. I was anxious, but the next day, another bus picked up all the stranded passengers and took us

the rest of the way. Nobody aboard seemed much bothered by the delay except for me.

We arrived in Liming just as a storm broke open upon the valley.

The town of Liming is technically within a national park, surrounded by sandstone walls that rise several thousand feet out of the lush floor.

The taxi dropped us at the Faraway Inn, a hostel that has become the de facto residence of any climber that comes to visit. Our excitement was quickly vanquished by the news that this storm would settle in and soak us and the sandstone for the next three or four days at least.

Despite our inability to climb, the town of Liming has plenty of charms.

Walking the single street of Liming offered a beautiful picture of local life. This is rural China, inhabited by the Lisu people, who carry on their traditional culture. Most people make their living farming the land, selling goods on market day, or by operating a restaurant. Judging by people’s hands and faces, life has made these a hearty folk.

The weather broke and we were finally able to get in some climbing.

High above the valley floor, perfect fissures in the sandstone splinter their way up the red rock. Amy, Rhiannon, and I explored the crag, trailed by Jerry and Ding Dong, two dogs from the Faraway Inn who oversee the climbing scene.

Liming has only seen climbing development in the last decade. And although there were plenty of routes to choose from, it appears that development could go on for several more decades before exhausting its potential. I was thoroughly impressed by what was before me: The walls recall Zion and much of the rock in Utah. But instead of desert, we were in a lush, almost tropical environment. We had found what we had been seeking.

Walking back into town in the evening, an elderly man with a gap-toothed grin met us on the road. He grabbed our tape-glove hands, pointed to the rock walls above, laughed and pretended to faint. At last, he grabbed the air and moved his hands up and down. We understood him perfectly.

Eric Hanson is a photographer, filmmaker and writer who travels the planet in search of adventure.

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ELWAYVILLE

beaches of the Pacific Northwest, I would go back there forever right now.

Or just for coffee and one sunrise, and a walk with some new old best friend I would have otherwise never met before.

0 3 .17

PRAYERS, PLANES AND PILSENER

WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?

THE TRUE CONFESSIONS OF A NERVOUS AIR TRAVELER—AND HOW BEING THANKFUL (AND DRINKING BEER) CAN HELP.

by PETER KRAY

I

used to be a nervous traveler, especially when the adventure involved airplanes.

Sometimes it seemed my wishful thinking was the only thing keeping that metal tube skimming through the sky.

Out of superstition, I used to sing the same song every time I boarded a plane—“Windfall” by Son Volt. The chorus goes: “Both feet on the floor two hands on the wheel, may the wind take your troubles away.” I thought by singing it, I might put some kind of cloak of protection around me, and make it clear to the powers of the world how much I enjoy being alive.

Now I still run to knock wood on an old ranch fence post about a mile and a half from my house before I fly. Mostly because I like to exercise before I hit the road, but also because it’s a good place, an open valley with mountains on either side. But I stopped whimpering about flying after a drinking buddy in Munich told me why he prays.

We sat in the Anna Hotel in Marienplatz during ISPO, the largest winter outdoor trade show in the world. Bill, a successful ski retailer, downed his shot and said, “You know, I get on my knees every night to give thanks for my friends and for my family, because I think it really is a miracle that any of us are here at all.” llustration by KEVIN HOWDESHELL / KEVINCREDIBLE.COM

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I agree. The very idea that we get to be here—what with all the variables involved, ranks as the ultimate gift to me—which is why I also started giving thanks. Taking time to be grateful seems like a small gesture, and I’ve never asked for anything more.

NO DIRECTION HOME When it comes to organized religion, though, I’ve always felt like a tourist.

My parents were/are an agnostic Catholic and a lapsed Episcopalian, respectively. They made a point of taking us to different churches when we were young, to see if anything took hold. “A church not made by hands,” to borrow from the apostle Mark, is the best way of describing what I learned.

That idea of taking a minute to

E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / M A R C H 2 017

acknowledge my appreciation—of everything!—has allowed me to be more present in the now. Whether it’s walking the dog or waiting in line at the grocery store, I’ve found comfort in the mundane, the in-between, and the real life moments that never make it to the Facebook highlight reel.

Of course I feel the same way drinking beer. In the air, those two practices—of self-awareness and sucking booze—make it easy to find the humor in screaming babies and turbulence above the clouds.

I also don’t feel that urge to get home. Almost every place I’ve ever visited (with the exception of Los Angeles), I imagine as somewhere I could have lived or live, given the chance my personal journey began somewhere else in the world.

The blue fjords of Norway, the pink cottages of Quebec, the cold

I just got home from two weeks of travel to sit down and write this, but part of me still wants to go out to the garage and start repacking the car. I finally got to recognize how much I love the romance of just starting out on a journey with my wife and a dog, not sure what we’ll find, but knowing it will be something we’ll talk about for years.

That's one of the endless benefits of travel: You have better stories to tell. You have memories that take your breath away, of random restaurants, kissing on strange street corners and the fast-acting euphoria of very strong beers. You have scribbled pages in a Moleskine notebook, blurry phone photos, and unreturned room keys that you treat like artifacts, and truly believe will form the basis for a sensual, transcendental, trendsetting novel somewhere down the road.

I think travel, and immersing yourself in new environments, is one of the first and best ways to be a better you. Or to put it more bluntly, if I can be a miracle, then you are undoubtedly a miracle as well. Being out in the world is like pouring Miracle-Gro (I know) on the specialness of you.

Or as another travel buddy recently said at the end of a trip, “Peace and love my friend. Always great to hang with you.”

That's enough to conquer any fear of being up in the sky.

—Elevation Outdoors editor-at-large Peter Kray is the author of The God of Skiing. The book has been called “the greatest ski novel of all time.” Don’t believe the hype? You can buy it here: bit.ly/godofskiing

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