Elevation Outdoors Spring 2024

With a full line-up of summer events and activities, Granby is a charming small-town Colorado summer destination. Near Rocky Mountain National Park and an abundance of outdoor recreation options, it’s the perfect week-long mountain vacation basecamp!

VIEW SUMMER TRIP IDEAS AT DESTINATIONGRANBY.COM

BENTGATE MOUNTAINEERING

IT

DEPARTMENTS

7 EDITOR’S LETTER

With the moon in danger of being trammeled by Elon Musk, we have to enjoy time biking with friends in the emptiness of the desert.

9 QUICK HITS

The Cycle Effect gets girls of various backgrounds out on bikes; take a tour of Colorado’s via ferratas; the Outside Festival takes over Denver; ski all spring long; explore Silver Plume; and more.

14 FLASHPOINT

For decades, the dream of a mountain bike trail connecting Nederland to Winter Park has been the Holy Grail of local riders. Last year, that dream moved one step closer to completion with the opening of the Toll Trail. What will it take to finish the project?

16

HOT SPOT

Check out these new trails and additions to a first-class trail system ideal for hiking, mountain biking, and trail running in Chaffee County.

18

HEAR THIS Fort Collins’ Cary moring finds the sacred spot in song for Native voices.

24

THE ROAD

A young podcaster heads to South America to deepen his understanding of the world by talking to perfect strangers.

30

ELWAYVILLE

It’s Manningville now.

FEATURES

20

WILD ART

Utah-based photographer and climber Nikki Smith finds new freedom in her artwork that depicts the places where she connects to the land.

22 CONFESSION OF A BIKE COMMUTER

A cycling newbie learns how to love her life in Boulder with no car.

26

BIKE GEAR AND ACCESSORIES

All the new bikes and cycling goodies to make you want to ride.

28

SUSTAINABILITY

These outdoor gear manufacturers want to go easier on the planet.

ON THE COVER

Steamboat Springs ranching roads just so happen to provide some the best gravel in Colorado. Jon and Heather from Moots Cycles, a local custom titanium bike company, enjoy what many would call a dream, but for them is just an after-work ride.

By Devon

Balet devonbaletmedia.com Instagram @devonbaletcollective

WANT MORE? CATCH UP ON PAST ISSUES, YOUR FAVORITE BLOGGERS, AND DAILY ONLINE CONTENT AT ELEVATIONOUTDOORS.COM.

MAKE

AN EPIC ADVENTURE: John and Tula enjoy the finer pleasures of the Grand Valley. Watch a short video of Tula’s Grand Adventure at bit.ly/431gFZd. Photo by Devon Balet

SINGLE TRACK HEAVEN Year 27!

The Fruita Fat Tire Festival wants to celebrate the awesomeness of mountain biking with you. Come ride demo bikes at 18 Road then talk with other great vendors, listen to live music, and have a SKA brewing beer or two in downtown Fruita after. Lets have fun celebrating the mountain bike!

IS OUR PASSION TOO…

ARTS. PARKS. EATS.

LYONS WINTER ESCAPE

This small town offers big views and a unique blend of artsy, down-home, outdoorsy fun. This winter, escape to Lyons, embrace relaxation and linger longer in Lyons. From beautiful wintry hikes, great local eats and easy-access cycling opportunities, Lyons has something for everyone.

VISIT LYONSCOLORADO.COM

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN doug@elevationoutdoors.com

PRESIDENT / PUBLISHER BLAKE DEMASO blake@elevationoutdoors.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR MELISSA KENNELLY m.kennelly@elevationoutdoors.com

EDITORIAL + PRODUCTION

MANAGING EDITOR CAMERON MARTINDELL cameron@elevationoutdoors.com

DEPUTY EDITOR TRACY ROSS

SENIOR EDITOR CHRIS KASSAR

COPY EDITOR MELISSA HOWSAM

EDITOR-AT-LARGE PETER KRAY

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

AARON BIBLE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM

DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, RYAN MICHELLE SCAVO, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

JEFF BLUMENFELD, ASHLEY GILBERT, BO HAWKES, ARIELLA NARDIZZI, MIKE ROGGE, NIKKI SMITH, JAY TRAUGOTT

DESIGNER/ART MANAGE R REBECCA CENCEWIZKI art@blueridgeoutdoors.com

ADVERTISING + BUSINESS

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER HANNAH COOPER hannah@elevationoutdoors.com

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE AMANDA LIVERETTE amanda@elevationoutdoors.com

BUSINESS MANAGER MELISSA GESSLER melissa@elevationoutdoors.com

CIRCULATION INQUIRIES circulation@elevationoutdoors.com

DIGITAL MEDIA

ONLINE DIRECTOR CRAIG SNODGRASS

DIGITAL EDITOR SHANNON McGOWAN

PUBLISHED BY ©2024 Summit Publishing, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

CONTRIBUTORS | 03.24

What's the best thing you ever did on your bike?

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

Got lost and stayed out overnight on something called the Miller Peak Epic.

HANNAH COOPER

Rode rental bikes around Hội An, Vietnam, to taste all the street food

CAMERON MARTINDELL

Blue Mountains of Australia singletrack; Rainbow Loop, Salida; Horsethief Bench, Fruita; chasing my kids around Valmont Bike Park in Boulder—it’s all so good.

TRACY ROSS

A five-day bikepack through southeast Utah—265 miles, 25K of climbing—with three of the coolest ladies ever. Not one moment of tension the whole time.

ARIELLA NARDIZZI

Exploring the expansive network of meandering trails right in my backyard in Boulder!

DEVON BALET

The Colorado Trail. Over the course of 11 days, 17 hours, and 19 minutes (including two days of dodging rain and snow in Buena Vista), I rode solo across this beautiful state I get to call home.

NIKKI SMITH

Regularly riding to the public library in elementary school. It opened up so many new worlds—both physically and mentally—for me.

BO HAWKES

As a 12-year-old growing up on the North Shore of Massachusetts, the best way to spend a Friday afternoon was with a bike ride to Starbucks for a vanilla bean Frappuccino.

SUMMIT PUBLISHING

MIKE ROGGE

I got off of one and decided I am firmly a skier.

ASHLEY GILBERT

I took off my training wheels.

PETER KRAY

I rode the Santa Fe Century on a Schwinn Cruiser.

BIKE BONDING

GET OUT WITH GOOD FRIENDS IN THOSE PLACES WHERE YOU CAN FORTGET ABOUT THE TRAVAILS OF THE WORLD.

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

Few things make you feel more in place than lying on your back next to a campfire in the desert looking up at the full moon and talking about nothing in particular after an epic day of mountain biking. On this night in Rabbit Valley, the conversation focused on that moon—how it was once untrammeled; how we feared it could be covered with some Elon Musk monstrosity for rich people that could be seen from down here on Earth; how, if that happened, even this simple, ancient pleasure of looking into the sky and gazing on landscapes untouched by human works and left to the individual imagination would be taken from us.

Then we heard it—a low rumble, an engine, a whistle. "Train!" We hopped up from the ground and ran across sandstone illuminated by that moonlight until we reached the edge of the cliffs of Ruby-Horsethief Canyon and peered down the Colorado River below, where a single light led the train along the riverbank. It brought something childlike out of us (OK, a few beers and edibles may have helped too) and, unlike a tech-bro resort on the lunar surface, this human work felt right. The railroad was what opened up the West after all. Bringing out settlers who tamed these quiet spots in a way not too different than the hordes of COVID-flight workat-homers who have crowded every trailhead and campground in our time. Honestly, I can't tell you why that moment felt so right and close and silly and peaceful. Sometimes, just laughing with friends heals all.

We certainly all needed some healing. My two friends and I had endured tragedies, deaths, career bumps, relationship woes. But none of that matters when you go biking out in the desert. That's why you go.

Rabbit Valley is my favorite place to ride bikes. Sure, the trails at nearby Mary's and Road 18 are better and beautiful and well maintained. Rabbit Valley is rough. Hot. Easy to get lost. Committing. This is where you go to push it a bit and suffer with good friends. These rides leave you with your hydration reservoir long sucked dry and your toe nails black-and-blue from constant knocking against rocks. You will push your bike. You might sing to deal with it. You will forget about all the shit that plagues your adult life. And I wonder out here: Is this who I really am? Is this life? Or is it just play? Does it matter?

I have shared these rides with my wife and my closest friends. My buddy Isaac, with whom I got out on so many rides when we were both in grad school and filling in the days with escapades in the far reaches of the Cascades, first turned me onto the place and the glorious 46-mile pukefest known as the Rabbit Valley Holy Grail. We did a lot of pushing between moments of joy bombing slickrock along cliffs with the wind up canyon our only other companion. During the pandemic, I introduced my friend Stacy Bare, who has dedicated his life to helping vets and other broken men find themselves again in the wild, to this monster ride. And the past two years, I have brought my old, dear friends Mike and Mark, those type of friends you can not see for years and click with again immediately once you get out on skis or bikes again, here to give it all we have and talk nothing under the moon.

This bike bonding is what we need in these days of societal anxiety and smartphone overload and humans continuing to slaughter each other despite everything our race has supposedly learned. So I hope you, too, can get out on bikes with friends in a place that means something to you. And I hope the moon can remain something far away and full of hope.

JOYS OF SUFFERING: DESERT RIDING DELIVERS HAPPINESS BETWEEN THE PAIN.

DOUG SCHNIIITZSPAHN

PEDAL EMPOWERED

THE CYCLE EFFECT PUTS GIRLS, MANY OF THEM FROM UNDERSERVED COMMUNITIES, ON MOUNTAIN BIKES, TEACHES THEM HOW TO RACE, EXTENDS COMMUNITY, EXPANDS INCLUSIVITY, AND, MOST OF ALL, BUILDS SELF-ESTEEM ON THE TRAILS AND BEYOND.

If mountain biking is anything, it is a freedom that grows stronger the more a girl gets to ride and the more supported she is on a bike. This principle is one of the driving forces of The Cycle Effect mountain bike teams in Summit, Eagle, Routt, and Mesa counties. The girls the nonprofit supports come in all shapes and sizes. There are the Latinx girls, who make up at least 86% of the teams, and the Caucasian girls, who make up the rest. Each group, generally speaking, has different histories, beliefs, and customs, which they bring to their bikes—the most important thing is they get out and ride. As Tenley Vinas, a 16-year-old of Guatemalan heritage says, “I’ve seen a bunch of close relationships between both Latina girls and white and Latina girls on the team. We’re all there to support each other. We’re multiple cultures combined into one.” in the last 10 years, The Cycle Effect has grown from 18 girls to over 300 aspiring cyclists who have benefited in demonstrable ways. Since 2013, hundreds of girls throughout the four teams have competed in races all over Colorado, with a handful racing at U.S. Nationals. Perhaps more importantly, all The Cycle Effect program graduates (those who’ve participated for three years or longer) have gone to college. “We are now seeing our graduates either racing or riding recreationally and coming back to coach with us,” says Cycle Effect founder and CEO Brett Donelson. —Tracy

Ross

STEEL YOUR NERVES

EXPERIENCE THE EXHILARATING HEIGHTS AND BREATHTAKING SCENERY OF COLORADO’S BEST VIA FERRATAS YEARROUND.

AMID

SHEER CLIFFS HIGH

in the alpine lies a playground for the intrepid where iron trails beckon those in search of an exhilarating adventure. Via ferratas, which translates to “iron paths,” were utilized by troops in World War I to gain strategic advantages and navigate steep terrain efficiently in Europe’s Alps.

Nowadays, you can scramble through rocky terrain with ease— and nominal climbing experience— on popular via ferrata routes around the Centennial State. Climbers attach themselves to cables using a harness, ascend rungs akin to climbing a ladder, and voila! For those seeking the thrill of rock climbing who don’t yet have the gear or technical skills, these Colorado via ferratas should satisfy that itch to get into the alpine.

Mount Blue Sky Via Ferrata in Idaho Springs: Nestled in the shadow of the mighty Rockies, this via ferrata route beckons climbers to the cliffside with breathtaking views of the Front Range—and sits just 30 minutes west of Denver. This guided experience melds rock climbing, ziplining, and rappelling across exposed ridges and narrow ledges, all while reveling in panoramic views of snowcapped peaks and alpine meadows below. Keep your eyes peeled for fellow cliff-dwellers such as bighorn

TECHNOLOGY

sheep or mountain goats that call this terrain home.

Granite Via Ferrata in Buena Vista: Venture to the quaint town of Buena Vista to discover this hidden gem in the high country. Carved into rugged cliffs overlooking the Arkansas River and Collegiate Peaks, this adrenaline-fueled adventure promises both challenge and reward. Ascend towering granite spires, suspend high above rocky precipices, and traverse along suspension bridges. This via ferrata offers unforgettable thrills for climbers of all skill levels.

Peregrine Arete and Cloud Ladder in Estes Park: Prepare to be awed by the raw beauty of these challenging via ferrata routes. These marvels offer a unique alpine experience, boasting the jagged peaks and glacially carved gorges of Rocky Mountain National Park as your backdrop. Climb skyward on Peregrine Arete, a family-friendly route with

TECHNOLOGY

GARMIN BOUNCE

This smartwatch for kids has proven to be a great way to teach them to read an analog watch face but also be able to track their location and communicate with them with a $10/month subscription. The watch also tracks steps, provides reminder alarms, and comes with a fun app-based game where the levels can only be unlocked by physical activity. $140 | GARMIN.COM

moderate ascents, to tackle exposed overhangs as you ascend to dizzying heights. Feeling bold? Test your mettle on the steepest and most challenging via ferrata route in North America, Cloud Ladder, where a series of vertical ladders and exhilarating cable bridges await.

Telluride Via Ferrata: In the heart of the San Juans is the crown jewel of picturesque via ferratas adventures. With its unmatched scenery and heartpounding thrills, the original Colorado via ferrata is not for the faint of heart. While most other routes require minimal technical skills, many sections of this region are un-cabled and require technical mountaineering elements. Scramble amid vertical canyon walls and soak in views of Bridal Veil Falls and the surrounding sky-high peaks.

Whether you’re a beginner looking to go guided and luxuriate in the scenery, or a skilled climber tackling a classic route for the thrill, via ferratas offer

electrifying and accessible means for adventure, ensuring that these “Iron Paths” will remain a beloved pastime for years to come.

—Ariella Nardizz i

GEAR WE LOVE BOOKS

ALTRA TIMP HIKER

This new boot is built off the 5th gen Timp running shoe on a standard last—not Altra’s signature wide toebox—for those who don’t need the extra room. This zerodrop lightweight breathable boot uses Vibram’s Megagrip outsole, thick TPU toe protection, and a cushy 29mm stack height using Altra’s Ego Max midsole. Men’s & women’s, plus a waterproof version. $175 | ALTRARUNNING.COM

COLORADO HIKING

Hikes, bites, and brews! Moon Colorado Hiking (Moon Travel Guides) is EO contributor Joshua Berman's latest outdoor travel guide to the Centennial State. The book covers 75 of Colorado's most remarkable day hikes, from 2 to 12 miles long, throughout the entire state and covering all difficulty levels. Each hike is paired with a local craft brewery, breakfast burrito, and/or campground. $22 | MOON.COM

OUTSIDE FESTIVAL LAUNCHES

IN FEBRUARY, GOV. JARED Polis made the official announcement of the Outside Festival happening in Denver June 1–2. The event will take place in Denver’s Civic Center Park and will include adventure films, speakers, outdoor gear booths, and live music. There will be specific zones for kids (under 12 get free admission), wellness, gear, bikes, dogs, travel, and adventure.

According to Polis, “The Outside Festival will be a celebration of outdoor recreation and help grow this important part of our economy and lifestyle while introducing more Coloradans to the benefits of spending time outside.”

Conor Hall, the director of the Colorado Outdoor Recreation Industry Office, says that Colorado outdoor recreation pumps $62 billion into the state’s economy, and outdoor recreation makes up 18% of the state’s workforce— that’s 500,000 jobs.

Tickets and more information about the event are available at theoutsidefestival.com.

—Cameron Martindell

SPRING DOWN THE

MOUNTAINS

GET ALL THE TURNS YOU CAN ON PRIME LATE-SEASON SNOW.

The snow is melting in Boulder and Denver but not just yet in the peaks of Summit County and beyond. Spring skiing and snowboarding have arrived. You should be stoked. Long sunny days have returned, and there’s still plenty of snow to ride. Colorado is home to around 32 ski areas during the winter peak season, but what about spring? Which mountain resorts are best (and open) for those bright spring days? Here’s the lowdown.

Breckenridge — Home to about 3,000 acres of terrain, Breckenridge remains open until mid- to late-May. It continues to operate all Five Peaks for as long as the weather allows thanks to a base elevation of 9,600 feet.

Arapahoe Basin — A-Basin typically has the longest spring riding season, lasting until June and sometimes into July. Pack your grills and coolers, and head to The Beach where you can kick back and party in between runs on late-late-season snow.

Winter Park — Didn’t get enough Mary Jane over the winter? Don’t sweat it. Winter Park continues to be a playground for skiers and snowboarders well into spring. Back this year is Spring Bash + Splash, four weekends straight of live music, parties, and many other festivities beginning in late March. Closes early May.

—Jay Traugott

EAT PLAY STAY: SILVER PLUME

A LIVING GHOST TOWN THRIVES ON COMMUNITY

FORMER MINING CAMP SILVER Plume stands as a diamond in the rough amid the towering snowcapped peaks of the Front Range. This quaint mountain town with a population of just over 200 offers the quintessential blend of history, natural beauty, and access to the neighboring Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forest.

EAT

Start your day with a craft coffee from the cozy Plume Coffee Bar ( plumecoffeebar.com), where you can pair your warm drink with endless board games, coffeetable reads, or lively conversation with the cafe’s regulars. Visit frequently enough, and you might end up with a mug in your name indicating your token local-ness.

For lunch or dinner, head to Bread Bar (breadbarsp.com), housed in a restored bakery dating back to the 1800s. This fine dining experience offers a diverse menu featuring gourmet sandwiches, artisanal pizzas, and creative small

plates, all crafted from locally sourced ingredients. Pair your meal with a culinary cocktail or local brew. The restaurant is currently hibernating due to a winter remodel, but will open its doors again come spring.

PLAY

All aboard the Georgetown Loop Railroad (georgetownlooprr .com)! Catch a ride back in time from the Silver Plume Depot as you meander along this scenic, hourlong railroad from the 1800s. Stop and tour the historic Lebanon silver mine and revel in your guide’s knowledge about the area’s history and mining techniques. After your ride, take a stroll through charming downtown, with Victorian-era architecture and antique shops.

If it’s the outdoors you seek, experience world-class skiing and snowboarding at Loveland Ski Area and Arapahoe Basin. Explore the nearby trails of Herman Gulch, offering scenic vistas of alpine meadows, 14,000-foot peaks, and vibrant wildflowers in the late summer.

STAY

Complete your Silver Plume experience with an authentic stay at the Windsor Hotel (historicwindsorhotel.com), a cozy bed-and-breakfast that famously housed miners back in the day. This charming inn offers comfortable accommodations in a preserved Victorian home, complete with modern amenities and warm hospitality. With shared facilities and common areas, the historic Windsor is a respite from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Alternatively, immerse yourself in the tranquility of nature with an evening of camping

GOV. JARED POLIS (L.) AND DENVER MAYOR MIKE JOHNSTON ANNOUNCE THE OUTSIDE FESTIVAL. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OUTSIDE, CASSANDRA PATTON/VISITCLEARCREEK.COM

under the stars at Guanella Pass Campground ( recreation. gov ). Set amid towering pines and babbling brooks, this developed campground offers 18 reserved sites, as well as access to hiking trails, fishing spots, and, sometimes, bighorn sheep sightings.

—A.N.

LOCAL HERO KATERYNA LAPINA

SHARING THE OUTDOORS WITH FELLOW UKRAINIANS AND EVERYONE ELSE

SHORTLY AFTER ARRIVING at the University of Colorado in 2011 to pursue research in air quality modeling, outdoor environmentalist and selfprofessed “Mountain Kat,” Kateryna Lapina (@colorado_ mountain_kat), a native of Kharkiv, Ukraine, worked with the National Center for Atmospheric Research (NCAR) to co-found Colorado Ozone Gardens to educate the general public on the effects of ozone pollution in the state.

Ozone-sensitive plants, such as the cutleaf coneflower, develop visible symptoms on

Join Our Outdoor Tribe Today!

their leaves that indicate high levels of ozone are present in the air.

“Ozone is invisible, but by looking at plants, we make this invisible problem visible,” Lapina says. “One of the goals of this project was to encourage Colorado residents to modify their lifestyles in order to mitigate ozone.”

Today, the Berthoud resident is a data scientist working for an online education company, and in her spare time, she’s a Fjallraven brand ambassador. Lapina organizes hikes for the Boulder store and for the Ukrainian community. She’s a member of the allvolunteer group Coloradans for Ukraine who raise money for the defense of their native land.

“The purpose is to build community and support each other during the war in Ukraine, but anyone interested in the outdoors is invited to join us,” she says.

“We’re using the outdoors, and Dance for Ukraine events in Boulder, to build community and exchange great vibes during tough times.” For more information visit: facebook.com/ groups/pco4ua

—Jeff Blumenfeld

LEFT TO RIGHT: CASSANDRA PATTON/ VISITCLEARCREEK.COM, COURTESY KATERYNA LAPINA

RON AND BETSY FROM RON SPOMER OUTDOORS

ELIZABETH DOUVILLE AND JOHN DOUVILLE

LURED BY THE SOUTHFORK IN

SWAN VALLEY, ID

With fly-fishing access on the Southfork of the Snake River and three pristine Wyoming Rivers, The Greys, Green, and The Salt, this off-the-beaten-path fishing destination is calling.

Swan Valley is known for serenity and solitude, or what may be referred to as “fishing without the crowds” for brown, rainbow, brookies, and the largest river population of iconic Yellowstone cutthroat trout. Set your hook from the banks or adrift on a boat, guided by locals who are intimately connected to the bite and the art of a day on the water.Natural landscapes untouched by large developments create a true outdoor experience on the other side of the Tetons from Jackson Hole, Wyoming.

Dark skies and bright big stars beg for fish stories around an outdoor fire at night, while the comforts of down-home hospitality at River Retreat Lodge will make you want to stay forever in one of the best-kept secrets in the West.

Anglers love the Southfork for its dependable and stellar dry-fly fishing, so it is no wonder Hyde

Drift Boats and Clackacraft are both headquartered minutes from here. The Southfork tailwaters are sourced from the bottom of Palisades Reservoir, which straddles the Idaho-Wyoming border, and the area offers four-season fly-fishing. Yes, snowshoeing into the backcountry to catch and release among snow-covered banks is some of the most satisfying angling ever experienced.

Swan Valley’s playground welcomes all experience levels of casting and setting the hook. Its scenic landscape and trophy trout will make you want to keep its secret, too.

HOW

TO

Catch a non-stop flight from Denver International Airport to Salt Lake City International Airport, and take a 3.5 hour road trip to Swan Valley for as low as $48 round trip via Frontier Airlines! Or, fly direct from Denver to Jackson Hole, and rent a car for an easy 60-minute ride into Swan Valley. If you are feeling an

adventurous roadtrip, drive about 8 hours through beautiful scenery to reach Swan Valley within a day.

Discover River Retreat Lodge, welcoming guests year-round with complimentary breakfast and access to the region’s top guides and fly-fishing packages. Unwind in spacious suites, perfect for relaxing after a day on the water or traveling with fellow anglers. Enjoy the ambiance of a large great room featuring a fireplace and pool table, with beer and wine available for purchase. Indulge in culinary delights at Swan Valley View Restaurant conveniently located onsite.

2024 FLY FISHING EVENTS

May 23-27, 2024: Angling for the Perfect Cast Retreat.

• The best fishing is from late spring to late fall.

• This four-season destination is within sixty minutes of three winter ski resorts - Kelly Canyon, Grand Targhee, and Jackson Hole.

• Take advantage of a day on Palisades Reservoir or hike Falls Creek Falls - an easy hike for all with a magnificent 60-foot waterfall.

• Visit RiverRetreatLodge.com for fly fishing packages and information.

RON AND BETSY FROM RON SPOMER OUTDOORS

INSIDER TIPS:

CAN I GET A CONNECTION?

FOR DECADES, THE DREAM OF A MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAIL CONNECTING NEDERLAND TO WINTER PARK HAS BEEN THE HOLY GRAIL OF LOCAL RIDERS. LAST YEAR, THAT DREAM MOVED ONE STEP CLOSER TO COMPLETION WITH THE OPENING OF THE TOLL TRAIL. WHAT WILL IT TAKE TO FINISH THE PROJECT?

by DAN ENGLAND

On a clear, sunny day in 2013, Jason Vogel suggested to Will Toor they go for a bike ride.

It wasn’t an unusual suggestion. Vogel was the president of the Boulder Mountainbike Alliance, and Toor was known for his love of mountain biking: His Facebook profile picture features a pic of him on a ride.

But Toor was also a Boulder County Commissioner, in his second term (he held office from 2005–12), and this time, Vogel had ulterior motives: He wanted Toor to realize the potential of the Tolland Ranch property west of Nederland. And do something to turn that potential into reality.

Toor already knew the land and was in negotiations, on behalf of the county, with the Tolland family to somehow purchase it and preserve it. He knew how special it was and what it could do for mountain bikers in

Boulder County.

The private property, bought by Charles Toll, the state’s attorney general in the late 1800s, is 4,700 acres, the largest in the South Boulder Creek Watershed, and features Amtrak passage, an elk corridor, and a historic schoolhouse.

"

Most of it is, by nearly all standards, simply breathtaking.

Still, if Vogel meant to sell Toor on the idea of a trail, he could have picked a better method. The two started up the West Magnolia trail system outside of Nederland and rode to the Eldora ski resort on a social trail that was, Toor remembers, “wildly difficult.” A recent windstorm had scattered trees in its path, forcing the riders to hop off their saddles and carry their bikes at least a dozen times. Yet Toor was reminded—again—how amazing the place was. The ride, no matter how difficult, solidified the need for a trail.

“The beauty didn’t escape me,” he says. “and if we could get it done, it would be a safe and accessible trail that people would really love.”

Singletrack Has a Price

The trail created a sense of urgency for the mountain biking community as well. Eldora’s new owners had closed access to a corridor that went through its ski area, preventing bikers from enjoying an iconic ride from Nederland to Winter Park. A paththrough Tolland Ranch would restore that access. At least, that was the plan. More on that later.

Last fall, the 5-mile singletrack socalled Toll Trail—Boulder County hasn’t picked a name yet and Mary Olson, the project lead and landscape architect for the county, notes that the extended process to name the trail is so that “we can honor the history of the area in a more inclusive way”)—opened after years of hard work both outdoors and behind closed doors.

That bureaucratic maneuvering

included a recreation easement that was written into the conservation easement, an unusual arrangement that Toor helped grease by talking to officials from nearly every natural resources department in the area and the state in addition to many members of the large Tolland family. The recreation easement, something that even recreation-focused Boulder County hadn’t tried before, would ensure that the trail could be built and that the public would have access to it, two things that aren’t always true with conservation easements. This is why Boulder Mountainbike Alliance Advocacy Director Mike Barrow maintains the trail would not have been built without Toor’s persistence.

But what makes the political wrangling—and the trail—even weirder is that Boulder county officials made it happen.

“It’s very unique for the county,” says Olson, “because it’s not in Boulder County.”

Wait. What?

The trail itself, as it turns out, is in Gilpin County. Boulder County, where Eldora is located, stepped in because it had the resources and permission to do so.

“Trying to protect that land was important,” Olson says. “That was really the focus. We are just so grateful to the family for allowing this to happen.”

The Toll trail does take a toll on mountain bikers who wish to enjoy it. It’s not a park ‘n’ ride. It’s a hard ride for a good hour or more, depending on your fitness, 3 miles up the rutted, unmaintained School Bus route in the West Magnolia trail system to get there.

“It’s tough, and not very fun,” Toor says.

“Man, it’s technical to get there,” adds Wendy Sweet, executive director of the Boulder Mountainbike.

But once riders do huff and puff their way to the Toll Trail, there’s a reward unlike many other trails in the region. “It’s this beautiful, flowy trail with wonderful views, such spectacular views,” Toor says. “It’s a pretty unique place to be able to go biking.”

Barrow, who is 67 and feels the hard approach more than most, still believes it’s worth the trip. “Once you get there, it’s the finest single-track trail that Boulder County’s ever done,” he says.

And it’s not just for bikers. “The trail is a multiuse trail. It’s open to equestrians, bikers, and pedestrians,” says Olson, who adds it’ll only be open seasonally—generally from early summer though mid-fall.

A Broken Connection

Despite all the good news, the Toll Trail is also a heated point of contention. The connection to Jenny Creek Road, which most agree is vital to allow a ride from Nederland to Winter Park, has not yet been approved because the U.S. Forest Service, which controls the land, has

concerns about the connection that may prevent it from happening.

“We don’t say it’s if the connection to Jenny Creek is approved,” Sweet says, “it’s when.”

As of now, the Toll Trail, for all its beauty, dead ends at a picnic table and a fence less than a half-mile away from Jenny Creek. Sweet says you can see the road from the end of the Toll Trail, and that it makes no sense because the Toll Trail was built, at least partially, to reestablish a connection from Nederland to Winter Park. It’s the only way to get over the Continental Divide. Others confirmed this, especially Toor, who was, after all, there at the time of discussion.

“If the trail wasn’t intended for that connection,” Sweet says, “it would be a loop or a lollipop. It wouldn’t be a dead end.”

The forest service doesn’t have plans to build or allow a connection to Jenny Creek Road for now, says Reid Armstrong, public affairs officer for the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forest. One of the biggest concerns of the connection is the fact that it would drop mountain bikers into trails used by motorized vehicles. Jenny Creek Road is open to all motorized uses, and nearby Jenny Creek Trail is open to two-wheeled motorized use. Both roads connect to Rollins Pass Road, and all three combine to create a popular motorized system.

This would likely create conflicts between the two groups, Armstrong says, and eventually, mountain bikers would probably create social trails to bypass those roads.

“They will not want to use trails by motorized users,” Armstrong says.

Social trails are an issue in any recreation areas for hikers or bikers as they can contribute to the rapid degradation of habitat critical to elk and other species, she adds.

“Those creating these trails are typically huge advocates for wildlife, but higher-speed trails are having an impact on where wildlife feel comfortable migrating.” This is a special concern, given that the elk use the land as a corridor.

But Toor and other advocates argue that the forest service’s inaction would cause a social trail, not building a solid, established connection that would allow bikers to ride over the divide.

“There’s a saying that it’s not the

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BARROW SAYS NOT BUILDING A SHORT CONNECTION WOULD DENY YOUNGER RIDERS AN ICONIC OPPORTUNITY TO BIKEPACK, A POPULAR ACTIVITY AMONG MOUNTAIN BIKERS, IN THE SAME WAY THAT HIKERS LOVE TO BACKPACK LONG ROUTES.

people who need the trails,” Sweet says, “it’s the land. Trails are the way we get people to experience the land in a place that’s appropriate and keep them out of places that’s not appropriate.”

Sweet believes it’s rare to find social trails near established trail systems, even if some are near motorized trails. In fact, social trails were an issue on the Tolland property, which is why the family supported the idea of recreation on its land, in the hopes of

discouraging further use of them.

“The only time you see that proliferation [of social trails],” Sweet says, “is when there aren’t established systems anywhere.”

Barrow says he believes the forest service is more concerned about thinning forests for wildfire mitigation, a real concern given recent history in the region.

“They’re focusing on fuel mitigation,” he says, “and it’s hard for me to argue. They just don’t have the resources now.”

Armstrong, however, says the growing demand for trails means the forest service is scrambling to meet the demands for all users, not just mountain bikers, and a trail to Jenny Creek would take time and money.

“The goal is to have opportunities for everyone somewhere,” she says.

Barrow says not building a short connection would deny younger riders an iconic opportunity to bikepack, a popular activity among mountain bikers, in the same way that hikers love to backpack long routes.

“The 20-somethings looking for a big ride, that’s the stuff,” Barrow says. “It would be a great community asset and address a more backcountry feel for those who would have the juice in their legs to do it.”

Regardless of what happens with the connection to Jenny Creek, the Toll Trail still offers a chance for a great ride. In fact, last fall, one month after the trail opened, on a sunny fall day, Toor hit it. The trail was a lot smoother than the ride up the Bus Route ride he took with Vogel, though he’s now more than 10 years older and still recovering from a mountaineering accident a year and a half ago.

“There’s still some work to do,” he says of himself and Jenny Creek. “But we were able to go for a beautiful bike ride.”

BACKYARD TO BACKCOUNTRY

POINT THE GRILL TO CHAFFEE COUNTY TO CHECK OUT THESE NEW TRAILS AND ADDITIONS TO A FIRST-CLASS TRAIL SYSTEM IDEAL FOR HIKING, MOUNTAIN BIKING, AND TRAIL RUNNING.

by CHRIS KASSAR

Looking for a “backyard to backcountry” experience? Then head to Salida and Buena Vista to experience this aptly named experience given to Chaffee County trail systems by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Accessible from both downtowns, these trails remain snow-free for a good chunk of winter and into spring, meaning you can get deep into the wilderness all year while enjoying stunning views of the Sawatch and Sangres. While the existing trail systems are already amazing, they are always a work in progress; as visitation increases and use patterns change, land managers and nonprofits respond with well-planned solutions that protect the resource while meeting demands. Updates and changes can entirely new trails, but here, they also mean connectors and upgrades that increase accessibility and meet the changing needs of the community. Here’s your guide to what’s new in one of our favorite nooks in the state.

Backside to Pano: Foot Traffic Only

Funded by a grant from Great Outdoors Colorado, the newest highlight in the Arkansas Hills Trails System (on and around “S” Mountain, aka Tenderfoot), is the addition of two foot-traffic-only trails (Backside and Panorama) that combine with existing trails to create a 1.5-mile oneway adventure allowing you (and your pup)

to run or hike wild without worrying about getting in the way of bikes. Completed in fall 2023, Backside, which peels off from Lower Sand Dunes, climbs in a hurry, featuring numerous stone steps and offering expansive views of the Arkansas River Valley on its journey to intersect with a saddle just below the start of Pano, another new foot-traffic-only trail that tops out on an overlook with stunning views of the Sawatch, the Sangres and town.

Rise N Shine: Increased Bike Accessibility

Also part of the Ark Hills trail system, Rise N Shine, which was completed in 2022, offers an easier alternative to the very popular and challenging Frontside. With less exposure, wider tread and generally easier grades (there are still some tough climbs that are closer to blue than green), this 1.5-mile route starts smooth for the first half before it climbs up the mesa, where you are rewarded with valley and mountain vistas. From its intersection with Dream On, less experienced riders can choose to descend the way they came. Those seeking a bit more of a challenge can hit Chicken Dinner for a flowy descent back to town.

Pot O’ Gold: Somewhere

Over the Rainbow

Opened in spring 2021, Pot O’ Gold, located on the Methodist Mountain trail

system, was created as an alternative to the road going up and down Sand Gulch. This 3-mile singletrack connector between the Little Rainbow Trail and the Double Rainbow Trail is an intermediate route. But, don’t underestimate it: The climb is tougher than you expect and the descent steep and twisty in either direction. Try to look up and enjoy the views of Shavano and the Chalk Cliffs. The trail opens up some loop options that incorporate Bear Creek, Gutz, Sol Trains, and the Spartans. Be aware that between Dec. 1 and April 15, Gutz, Pot-o-Gold, and Rainbow are closed in full; Sun Up, Sol Train East, and West are closed above the powerline road.

Crank ‘n’ Hammer: New Buena Vista Gem

First proposed in 2015, Crank ‘n’ Hammer was not added to the BV system until 2023 due to budget constraints. We wish it hadn’t taken so long! Expect technical, punchy singletrack complete with rollers and rock features on this 2.8-mile intermediate route that connects Fistful of Dollars with Camp Elevation South. Run, ride, or hike a loop that includes Camp Elevation South for a 5-mile singletrack adventure that avoids CR 304 and delivers big views of Mount Princeton. This project was made possible by a huge number of

volunteers and funded by proceeds from Trail Forge whiskey, an innovative collaboration between Eddyline Brewing and Deerhammer Distillery.

What’s Next?

While there may be new trails coming in 2024, the big news right now is The Chaffee County Trails System & Conservation Plan, which aims to improve the current network and to provide sustainable trail opportunities while protecting our natural resources and wildlife. Efforts are led by a coalition that includes Salida Mountain Trails, Buena Vista Singletrack Coalition, the National Forest Foundation (NFF), Envision Chaffee County, and Chuck Cichowitz (a representative for outfitters and guides). This coalition is coordinating with land management agencies and local governments to help inform decision-making processes. Want to get involved? Public input will be a major factor in developing the plan. During the 18-month planning process, several public meetings will offer an opportunity for community engagement. The first round of meetings is planned for spring 2024. Visit the planning project webpage (envisionchaffeecounty.org/trailssystem-conservation-pla n) and sign up to stay informed.

THE PANORAMA TRAIL

DEEP CONNECTION

FORT COLLINS’ CARY MORIN FINDS THE SACRED SPOT IN SONG.

BY DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

“This land is talkin’ to me/I cannot falter now,” sings Cary Morin in “Big Sky Sun Goes Down,” the opener on his new release Innocent Allies (available at carymorin.com), the Fort Collins-based singer songwriter’s latest release. The concept album pays tribute to the classic painter of the American West, Charlie Russell, whom Morin feels was an ally to Native people in the West, portraying them with dignity and understanding.

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Native tribes in his art. It makes me proud to see artists of varied backgrounds taking the spotlight with digital art and music, as well as new concepts in painting and sculpture. It’s an exciting time for art in Indian Country.

What personal connection do you find to the landscape of Colorado? How does it work into your music?

MY EXPERIENCE GETTING TO KNOW FOLKS THROUGH POWWOWS AROUND THE WEST

Morin, who is Crow, finds inspiration in the landscapes of the West, whether fishing and kayaking or simply seeing the deep history of the place for Indigenous people. The famed fingerstyle guitarist, who has played with the likes of Bonnie Rait and Los Lobos and won two Indigenous Music Awards, took the time to talk to EO about what inspires his music, the pups he takes on the road with him, and the legacy of Native voices in the West.

WILL

ALWAYS BE PART OF MY HISTORY. IT WEAVES ITS WAY THROUGH MANY OF MY SONGS.

How do you see the artwork of the legendary Charlie Russell, which is a major influence on your latest release, as important to Native artists and musicians working today?

Maybe it was important to me because of my age. There was a major boom in Native Artists in the 1980s, mostly thanks to the Institute Of American Indian Arts in Santa Fe, New Mexico. There have been many artists who have changed Native art and continue into the new millennium. Charlie was an influence on some of these artists as well, but now Native art is being led by Natives and is so much more than paint and sculpture of the past. Charlie painted authentic images of

litter of puppies from here in Fort Collins. They are wonderful companions. At this point, we have been to dog parks from coast to coast and many in between. We have become connoisseurs of dog parks. It's added something special to being on the road. As they move out of puppyhood, we are hoping to get them to the point where they can hang out at the shows instead of staying in the RV. As puppies, they're still a bit too distracted, but we'll get there!

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they played without me.

ONCE WHILE PLAYING MUSIC ON A STAGE ON THE POUDRE RIVER, I LET THE BAND TAKE A LONG DRUM SOLO AND CAST FROM THE BACK OF THE STAGE WHILE THEY PLAYED WITHOUT ME.

You like to kayak and fly-fish. What lessons has the river taught you?

When my son Tad came along on one of these trips, he met a bunch of pro kayakers. Soon, I was buying kayaks and learning as much as I could about paddling. Tad was about 14 and a natural on the river when he was discovered by a race team, and that led to his being on the Junior Olympic Kayak team. He started taking on water that I was sure would kill me. So I left the hard stuff to him. It was a great time for us to spend together, and I could always fish while the team practiced.

Where do you go to feel closer to the land?

I have spent most of my life traveling and sharing songs along the way. When I was a teen in Montana, I decided the best thing to do would be to play shows in Colorado, particularly at ski areas. I have always lived near the Rocky Mountains and considered the Rockies home. Colorado is a part of the landscape that I see in my mind when I am writing. My children all grew up in Colorado, and we lived those years together here. I see Colorado as part of the Western Plains even beyond the cultural experience of the Crow Tribe, but also all of the tribes of this expansive region. My experience getting to know folks through powwows around the West will always be part of my history. It weaves its way through many of my songs.

What can you tell me about your dogs? How important is their companionship for you?

We have two Goldendoodles from a

My dad didn’t fly-fish, though he sure loved to fish. Because of him, I enjoyed walking rivers and creeks for many years. I would fish with my grandfather on horseback on the Bighorn River when I was a kid. I eventually became interested in flyfishing and would always try to fish on music tours. Once while playing music on a stage on the Poudre River, I let the band take a long drum solo and cast from the back of the stage while

I used to think that being in the mountains was going to church for me. I often thought about how different the land must have been when my ancestors were in the very same spot with their families. Now, I tend to think that sacred spot is wherever I happen to be at any given moment. As we travel, we are always seeing things we have never seen, maybe didn’t even know existed. There doesn’t seem to be the need to linger anywhere because something new is waiting around the next corner.

“WITH MY PHOTOGRAPHY, EVERYTHING I CREATE HAS A MACHINE BETWEEN ME AND WHAT I MAKE. WITH DRAWING AND PAINTING, THERE IS LESS SEPARATION.”

THE PERFECT SPACE

UTAH-BASED PHOTOGRAPHER AND CLIMBER NIKKI SMITH FINDS NEW FREEDOM IN HER ARTWORK THAT DEPICTS THE PLACES WHERE SHE FINDS A TANGIBLE CONNECTION TO LANDSCAPE ACROSS THE WEST.

Words

and Art

by NIKKI SMITH

It may sound strange, but my path to photography was drawing. My teen years were focused on putting pencil to paper. Photography was just a side interest. I spent hours focusing on a single drawing, enagaged in nothing outside my colored pencils, markers, or the occasional paints. In high school, I had two fantastic art teachers who encouraged me to go deeper. Their classrooms were spaces where I could escape my life, focus on a gift, and hear encouragement and praise for my work.

Over time, the tasks of daily living and photography took over, and I stopped drawing or painting. Here and there, I’d try again, only to be discouraged by the result. Then, years would pass without me creating drawings. In 2018, I decided that rather than try to produce art similar to my younger work, I’d try something new: pen and ink, watercolor, acrylic, and

linocut. Even with the change in medium, I still couldn’t fully let go. I still have unfinished work I was too afraid to finish.

All of what I create is focused on places I’ve visited, and I often start the outline or painting while on a trip. Sometimes I can fill a whole canvas while I’m outside, sitting in a beautiful alpine meadow or on a warm sandstone slab in the desert. I’m watching the sunset, the horizon and peaks painted with light, yellows, oranges, pinks, and purples taking over the sky.

The scenes I choose are typically scenic, filled with rock and ice climbing routes I’ve climbed that I want to capture differently than I do with my camera. With my photography, everything I create has a machine between me and what I make. With drawing and painting, there is less separation. It’s my hands directly on

the final medium, where I can feel the texture of the paper. I get to choose how I represent what I see, from shapes to colors. Playing with lines and angles, I have a different freedom from my photography, which is an exact snapshot of any scene. I get to play around more with interpretations of what I see, not an accurate representation. At first, this scared me, as my drawings were always photorealistic. Over time, I’ve started to let go and embrace the interpretations, mistakes, and change of scale when I don’t get the shapes precisely right. It’s perfectly imperfect, just like everything else in our lives.

Nikki Smith is an artist, writer, photographer, guidebook author, runner, and climber based in Salt Lake City. She started climbing in the early ’90s and has worked in the outdoor industry and climbing world since 1998. Smith’s photography has been featured in many outdoor publications, and she is a National Geographic Adventure photo contributor. She’s authored five climbing guidebooks and has written many feature articles for climbing magazines. She’s done over 200 first ascents throughout the West and has traveled the world to climb. Nikki is also an athlete representing Mountain Hardwear, Scarpa, REI Protect Our Winters, Grivel, and more.

The first time I tried bike commuting I was in my early 20s, living and working in downtown Pittsburgh. I lived a mile and a half from the office and imagined cruising across rivers and bridges would be a delightful way to expedite the commute. I picked up a vintage, sky-blue Schwinn Suburban off of Craigslist, attached a handlebar basket from Amazon, and brazenly set out on two wheels. My bike was cute and I was excited. This enthusiasm, however, rapidly declined. Navigating the hazards of rush-hour traffic and an absence of bike lanes quickly ended with me crying at a bus stop in the rain and calling my boyfriend for a ride home. I quietly let that bike gather dust for the rest of the lease term before reselling it and moving out.

Nearly a decade later, I landed in Boulder and began flirting with the idea of trying bike commuting again, intrigued by boasts of Boulder’s extensive bikeways and charmed by rumors that the city plows bike paths more readily than streets after winter snowstorms. I wanted to incorporate more fresh air and physical activity into my days and saw biking as an opportunity to do so, with the added benefits of reducing my environmental footprint and transportation costs. A friend in Denver offered a hand-me-down road bike she no longer used and enabled my two-wheeled adventures to resume.

Over the summer, I made light use of the creek path, riding to and from the farmers market for a weekly supply of veggies. For most other trips I opted to drive, maintaining reverence for the cyclists

WITH THIS TRANSACTION, I ALSO FELT SOMETHING SHIFT WITHIN ME. I TOOK OWNERSHIP OF MY CIRCUMSTANCES. I WANTED TO BE DOING THIS. I STARTED HAVING FUN.

THE TRIALS AND ERRORS OF BIKE COMMUTING

A CYCLING NEWBIE LEARNS HOW TO LOVE HER LIFE IN BOULDER WITH NO CAR.

by ASHLEY GILBERT

pushing along busy routes like Highway 36, Foothills Parkway, and The Diagonal Highway. Though my ears perked at any mention of pedaling up the long, steep slog of Flagstaff Road into the Flatirons or up dirt mountain roads to Gold Hill, I continued to admire the assemblage of Boulder’s cycling community from a safe distance, behind my steering wheel. That is, until an untimely car accident at the beginning of November spurred me to pull the 30-year-old steelframe road bike from my padlocked shed and saddle up as winter arrived on the Front Range.

The opportunity I’d been asking for was now thrust upon me. I enjoyed the idea of riding my bike a few miles further a few times a week for a few more weeks, but in practice, the act itself was far less fun. The backs of my knees became sore from the sudden increase in activity, the muscles along my spine constantly tense from bracing against the icy paths and cold air, and balancing a pack of daily essentials on my back was a challenge. Confronted by a big dump of white stuff the weekend after Thanksgiving, I found out the hard way that my lightly-treaded road tires were a horror show in the snow.

Curious about the potential of installing wider tires and wanting my front shocks examined, I made an appointment with an independent repair shop offering a watch-and-learn experience. I learned the part of the bike I had a question about is actually called a fork, and not only was mine completely busted, it

was also virtually irreplaceable due to age. If we replaced it with a newer part, it would interfere with the alignment on a bike that already didn’t fit me well. And, no, putting wider tires on this frame was not an option. I got a lesson on forks, tires, frames, and braking systems, and left with a realization of the previously unimaginable: I was going to have to get a mountain bike.

Somehow, as a novice cyclist, I was talked into buying a second bike, in December, and it made sense. I tested out a few secondhand options and found a Cinderella fit with a blacked-out aluminum hardtail that felt right. With this transaction, I also felt something shift within me. I took ownership of my circumstances. I wanted to be doing this. I started having fun.

Over the past four months, my mind, body, and gear have been in a constant state of change. My cargo system has evolved from just a backpack to a rack with a bungee cord, to a milk crate, and now a two-pannier set up. Though challenging at times, figuring out what I like is part of the fun of trying new things. In the middle of writing this, my vehicle was deemed a total loss. So, as winter softens and the days get longer, I’m leaning into bike life and stoked to explore new routes and trails in the coming season.

Ashley Gilbert is a sustainability consultant, small business owner, and budding cyclist living the dream while chasing it in Boulder, Colorado.

A WORTHY ENDEAVOR

A YOUNG PODCASTER HEADS TO SOUTH AMERICA TO DEEPEN HIS UNDERSTANDING OF THE WORLD BY TALKING TO PEOPLE WHO HAVE DISCOVERED WHO THEY ARE BY TRAVELING FAR FROM HOME.

words and photos by Bo Hawkes

My eyes were glued to the screen. The words “unable to process your request” flashed back to me in bold white font. I was in disbelief. This was month three of backpacking through Chile, Argentina, Peru, and Ecuador, and for the first time, I felt utterly helpless. There I stood, staring at a broken ATM in the rural village of Mindo in northern Ecuador. It was the only ATM in the valley. Moments ago, I had finished scarfing down a pepperoni pizza before I waved down the waiter for the check. La cuenta, por favor, I announced in broken Spanish. The waiter had returned with the bill and kindly informed me that the restaurant was cash only. My contented state quickly soured when I opened up my wallet to see just four lonely centavo coins staring back at me—the four coins for my bus fare back to Quito. Here I was in rural Ecuador with no way to pay for my meal. How had I let this happen?

My trip started as a whisper of an idea, a thought in the shower. Six months prior, in the dead of the New York City winter, as I swiveled back and forth in my ergonomic chair and glared

at my computer, the call to adventure nipped me. At first, it entered my mind only occasionally, interrupting during a run or right before I fell asleep. Then, it developed into an urge I couldn’t suppress. I didn’t know where I needed to go or what I needed to do, but I had to find out.

I have been fortunate enough to have had opportunities to work on dairy farms in New Zealand, study apartheid in South Africa, backpack as a clueless 18-year-old through Thailand, and take a semester of language courses in Spain, but South America, was the last continent left on my tick list (Antarctica, don’t think I’ve forgotten about you). With the where decided, it was now a matter of the what, how, and why. I had been afraid of this part, but I decided it would involve the idea of meeting fellow travelers, interviewing them, and sharing their stories. I had been flirting with this concept through my half-assed efforts to create a podcast with the interviews of my close friends on the topic of their corporate jobs. Pulling someone else’s story apart, piece by piece, and getting to their why is something I enjoy. A backpacking trip through South America

felt like the perfect opportunity to explore this part of me.

The decision to part ways with my apartment lease and job was decided. With the return of my security deposit in hand, I purchased a mirrorless camera and a one way ticket to Santiago. I had committed to the drop.

The plan for the trip was to conduct interviews as I worked my way from Santiago up to Quito. What I hadn’t planned for, however, was how much of the trip would push me out of my comfort zone. What transpired after I landed in Chile was more of a challenge than I could have prepared for, but also an eye-opening experience. I came to realize that the simple act of inviting others to share their stories with me opened up a world of vulnerability. Working up the nerve to ask complete strangers about their life motivations proved to be the hardest part of the journey. Doubt never failed to creep when I asked someone if I could interview them: “This is weird. Asking someone if I can interrogate them about their travels. I should just take photos of trees or something. I don’t need to do this, do I?” I learned through

this process, however, that on the other side of the interview was such a strong sense of accomplishment and connection with the subject. Here are the people I met.

The One-way Ticket

Bradley from Newcastle, England, was my first subject. I became friends with Bradley through our shared bunk room in a hostel in Mendoza, Argentina. After splitting with his girlfriend, Bradley had quit his job and bought a one-way ticket to Brazil with the money he had saved to buy a house. During our interview, he talked about misconceptions about South America “You’re going to get robbed. You can’t stay in hostels because you’ll get robbed” was the advice he heard during the start of his travels. Bradley stood firm in his belief that if you go looking for trouble, you will find it. But if you look after yourself and act sensibly, you will be fine.

The Doctors

My second subject was a Brazilian couple from a small farming town north of Sao Paulo, whom I met while waiting in line for the bus in the Chilean

desert headed to Arequipa, Peru. Little did I know they would prove to be my saving grace as I navigated the Chile-Peru border with limited Spanish. Their experience as doctors working in hospitals during the height of the pandemic led them to take time away from their jobs and travel together.

The Ramblers

Simona and Pien came next. While sitting in a pizza shop in Cusco, Peru, with my cousin, who had joined me for the Peru section of my trip, we struck up a conversation with the two of them. “We're young, wild, and free,” they told me. The two friends had grown up together in The Netherlands. Simona had recently begun working for herself as an environmental consultant, and Pien had left her job as a financial analyst. Simona later shared with us, in all seriousness, that her parents’ names were Mary and Joseph and she happened to be born on Dec. 25.

The Empath

My third subject was Sven. A doctor from the Netherlands in his late 20s, he shared his story of his travels through

the Amazon by every possible mode of transportation, including boat, car, and bus. Sven’s experience witnessing the working conditions in the salt mine in Uyuni, Bolivia, hit him hard. His experience traveling contributed to his empathy toward others and ability to find clarity for himself. “You become more mindful of the things you have and don't have,” he told me.

The Solo Traveler

Then came Emily from France who was staying in a hostel on the beach in Mancora, Peru. Her enthusiasm for traveling was hard to ignore. She shared how fascinated she was by solo travel’s ability to strengthen her intuition, independence, and self-confidence. She said that South America provided a break from the voices of others telling her how to live her life. I'm just trying to find an answer, but I am the only one who has the answer.”

The Climber

Acur from Mexico City was my next subject. After the pandemic, he began working on a startup with his friends to

solve the issue of vacant work spaces, but was now enjoying time away to climb Mount Chimborazo. Acur was my bunk mate in a hostel in Cuenca, Ecuador, and he shared that his goal was to climb Mount Everest in the next few years. His Chimborazo climb was eye-opening. He spent six days acclimatizing in complete isolation before attempting the summit. During his climb to the top, there was a section where he slipped. “I thought I was going to die,” he confided to me. Worries about how he hadn’t been able to say goodbye to his parents overwhelmed him.

The Entrepreneur

Suzanne was my final interview. An Olympic whitewater rafter originally from the Netherlands, and now living in Switzerland, she is the co-founder of a restaurant and the founder of a Dutch online platform aimed at innovating the way entrepreneurs work remotely. Her experience in South America proved to be exactly what she needed in her quest to pay better attention to her intuition, which ultimately improved her business acumen. “The only thing

that we don't do is stop... and listen to ourselves,” she said.

The other day, scrolling through LinkedIn, I found a quote from David Perell that captures the common thread from the stories I heard during these interviews. “The people I admire most have a way of escaping the bubble of culture…without such an escape, propaganda wins. You’re swept away with the tide of culture and stop thinking for yourself. Modern delusions grow into an all-consuming mind virus.” The one thing all of these stories have in common is an escape from the bubble. Each subject, including myself, traveled to South America to spend more time with themselves—away from the “shoulds” and the norms of home. You should do the same.

If you want to listen for yourself and hear these travelers share the entirety of their stories, head to Bo Hawkes' Worthy Endeavor podcast https://podcasts.apple.com/us/ podcast/worthy-endeavor-with-bohawkes/id1715187568

SEVEN RIDES WE LOVED

SPRING IS IN THE AIR AND IT’S TIME TO START SHOPPING FOR A NEW RIDE. TO THAT END, WE PRESENT FIVE BIKES THAT CAUGHT OUR FANCY AND DELIVER NO MATTER WHERE YOU WANT TO SPIN YOUR WHEELS.

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

ENVO

D50

The perfect e-bike for short-haul commuters, running errands, and lazy-day cruising, this baby comes with the capability to haul a lot of cargo. A class 3 e-bike with a burly 750W motor it can hit 28 mph and provides pedal assist, making it ideal for anyone who wants to replace driving with cycling in some capacity. (A class 2 version, which is legal in more bike path situations, delivers 50W of power and tops out at 20 mph.) That all adds up to a bike you can trust as your go-to vehicle. $2,679; envodrive.com

Salsa

Fargo Apex 1

Here’s a touring bike that can piece together routes on pavement, gravel, even singletrack. The steel frame can withstand a lot of punishment, and drop bar geometry gives it a mountainbike feel on the descents. Highly customizable (though also good-to-go with factory specs) with the ability to swap in drivetrains and ready for bikepacking thanks to well-placed cargo mounts, this ride helped us dream big. $2,599; salsacycles.com

Canfield Nimble 9

This steel hardtail appealed to the purists among us—and, truth be told, it can handle gnarly terrain, as well as many fullsuspension bikes with less maintenance hassle. Credit that performance to 29inch wheels and a 150mm front fork. Plus, it can run 29-plus and 27.5-plus wheels as well as 2.8-inch tires. That all adds up to a bike that can punch far beyond its weight on technical terrain and pedals up like a dream. Best of all, Canfield is based here in Colorado in Fruita, one of our favorite places to ride. $3,375; canfieldbikes.com

Trek

Domane+ SLR 7 AXS

Sure, that’s a hefty price tag, but this e-road bike is worth the cash if you need electric power to reach your goals on the pavement. With a carbon frame, manufacturer weight of 27.56 pounds, and all the electronics artfully built into the frame, it doesn’t look or feel like some bulky e-ride. The assist is smooth, quiet, and easy, hitting speeds up to 28 mph. It’s the bike for you if you are past your best days but

still want to hang with amped-up friends. $10,000; trekbikes.com

Giant Reign Advanced Pro 29

Reign Advanced Pro 29

Here’s the bike to make your enduro race ambitions a reality. The beefy 170mm fork with 44mm offset and 146mm of travel in the rear gives you the confidence to point it downhill and pop over features—but don’t think this beast is a dog on the ups. Designed with 29er specific geometry in the composite frame, the bike engages on the uphills thanks to the Maestro rear fork, which makes climbing responsive and smooth. It’s the answer to all those rocky Front Range rides. $4,150; giant-bikes.com

Canyon

Torque:ON CF Roczen

The beauty of an e-downhill-bike (where it

is allowed) is that you don’t have to worry about the ups the way you would with your old acoustic beast. A 180mm RockShox Zeb Ultimate RC2 front fork and RockShox Super Deluxe Coil Ultimate rear suspension suck up all the hits with aplomb. The 720W and 900W batteries give you the power to take it anywhere and hold a decent charge. And the Ken Roczen artwork gives it a dash of motocross steeze. $8,999; canyon.com

Yeti

SB120 C2

There’s a certain feeling of “I am on the right bike” you get when you show up at the trailhead on a Yeti (based here in Golden, Colorado). The SB120 is the cross-country ride for those of us who love the whole package of mountain biking. The 120mm front fork is more than adequate for long rides and it is simply a dream on those long, lovely grunts up. $4,640; yeticycles.com

CANFIELD

CANYON

ENVO

YETI

TREK

GIANT

SALSA

THE LITTLE DETAILS

CYCLING—BE IT ROAD RACING OR E-CRUISING— REQUIRES A LOT OF SPECIALIZED GEAR TO COMPLETE THE PACKAGE. HERE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVORITE ACCESSORIES FOR WHEN YOU HOP IN THE SADDLE.

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

Hollywood Racks

Destination E Bike Rack

Heavy electric bikes do not pair well with that rack made for fast, light mountain and road rides (trust us; we dealt with an e-mountain bike breaking a rack while we rumbled down a gravel road last year). No fear—this sturdy rack can hold bikes up to 70 pounds secure and includes a ramp system that makes it easy to roll them up into place. Plus, it pivots down so you can get in the back of your vehicle even when big bikes are on the rack. $699; hollywoodracks.com

Swiftwick

Pursuit 7

Merino wool always makes for a good cycling sock thanks to its ability to wick sweat and stay cool when hot ,and warm when cold. These well-fitting socks were comfy in our stiffest cycling shoes—and they’re made in the USA to boot. $22; swiftwick.com

Green Guru

Dutchy 22L Pannier

Made in the style of classic Dutch panniers, this bike bag not only fits most racks, it also detaches and includes a shoulder strap so you can use it as a

messenger bag when you reach your destination. Bonus: It’s built from sturdy upcycled billboards and truck tarp vinyl material, so you can feel even better about saving the planet when you bike to work every day (see page 22). $100; greengurugear.com

Smith

Triad

Designed for gravel and road riding, this light (10 ounces in size M) brain bucket provides plenty of ventilation and integrates with Smith sunglasses for a fit that helps cut down on fogging. Most importantly, it protects your precious skull thanks to a design that cuts down on extra material while maximizing energy absorption, and a MIPS system that helps mitigate concussions should you take a hit. $190; smithoptics.com

Tifosi Stash

These big shades provide plenty of coverage to protect your peepers whether

you are bombing gravel or just hopping on the e-bike to run to the store. The light frames and adjustable hydrophilic rubber ear and nose pieces deliver a secure fit and they include three interchangeable lens tints—meaning you can keep wearing these shades at twilight when many others just get too dark. $80; tifosioptics.com

Camelbak

M.U.L.E. 12

Handlebar Pack

This svelte hauler is a godsend for big bikepacking adventures since it can swallow up gear as large as a tent while remaining well balanced—even on raucous singletrack descents. The

aluminum mounting system is simple and effective, and it’s easy to get in and out of the roomy expandable compartment. Plus, the bag’s made with recycled nylon. $100; camelbak.com

Flylow Bandit

Airy and lightweight, this polyester hoody is just the ticket for cruising around town on spring days or pulling out on big backcountry rides when the temperature drops. It serves up UV+ protection from the sun and plenty of stretch, making it a much more comfortable option than a bulkier shell or mid-layer. $85; flylowgear.com

CAMELBAK

SMITH

SWIFTWICK

TIFOSI

FLYLOW

GREEN GURU

HOLLYWOOD RACKS

EASY BEING GREEN

IT MAKES SENSE THAT OUTDOOR BRANDS ARE AT THE FOREFRONT OF DEVELOPING PRODUCTS THAT GO EASY ON THE ENVIRONMENT. HERE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVORITE BRANDS MAKING A DIFFERENCE.

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

Recover Brands

Eco Button-Down Shirt

Recover Brands is doing the supply chain right, keeping everything from growing and sourcing to manufacturing and marketing within a 250-mile radius of its Charlotte, North Carolina, headquarters. But the real selling point is just how good its apparel— like this soft button-down made from postindustrial cotton and postconsumer plastic—feels when you slip it on. $50; recoverbrands.com

Houdini

W’s Outright Houdi

Swedish brand Houdini has been committed to sustainable materials and manufacturing from the get go and continues to push the possibilities of what can be done to create technical outerwear that doesn’t cause harm to the environment. Built with Polartec Power Stretch Pro Light fabric and bolstered by a microfleece lining that pulls moisture away from the body, this hoodie is ideal for hikes and camping trips. It’s also Bluesign vetted, meaning it has passed the strictest guidelines of sustainable manufacturing and ethical work conditions. $230; houdinisportswear.com

Cotopaxi

Teca Fleece Pullover

Utah-based Cotopaxi has continued to put sustainability at the forefront of its manufacturing efforts. It achieved 100% carbon neutral status in 2023 for the second year in a row, taking stock of all its carbon emissions and setting goals to reduce them, specifically in the supply chain, which accounts for 95% of CO2 output. And the cozy Teca fleece doesn’t just feel good when you sit in front of the fire or walk the dog in the woods, it's made from the brand’s repurposed fabric, which has kept over 1.8 million pounds of what could have been waste out of landfills. $100; cotopaxi.com

Buff

Lightweight Merino

Buff, which found fame on the first episodes of Survivor and has grown into a (outdoor-loving) household name, won an Outdoor Retailer Inspiration Award for its companywide dedication to sustainability. It has recycled 41 million plastic bottles into its products, most of which are manufactured at its headquarters in Barcelona, Spain. Plus, it eliminated 11 tons of plastic waste in 2022, thanks to a packaging redesign that got rid of extra junk. The Lightweight Merino Buff gives all the temperature-regulation benefits and soft feel of merino while relying on an all-natural material. $30; buff.com

Patagonia Women's All Seasons Hemp Canvas Bib Overalls

No outdoor company has made a bigger splash on the national scene when it comes to sticking to sustainable ethics in business and manufacturing than Patagonia. To that end, the company wants to encourage consumers to do the most sustainable thing they can and buy apparel that lasts and doesn’t end up in the landfill. That said, it continues to innovate with fabrics to ensure its products do last

longer. Made from a blend of industrial hemp, recycled polyester, and organic cotton, these overalls show off the company’s commitment to better material. Hemp requires far fewer resources than many other crops and lasts longer. Plus, the brand has been involved with efforts to bring industrial hemp growing and manufacturing back to the U.S. $119; patagonia.com

Nemo Coda

Nemo’s genderless, mummy-style, ultralight Coda sleeping bag is already impressive because it provides so much warmth in a 1-pound, 7-ounce package. But the real revelation here is that the entire thing is fully recyclable when the sad day comes when it can no longer be used. Even better, Nemo has partnered with its ethically sourced down supplier Allied Feather + Down in the RENU:TRACE program, so when the down is recycled it can continue to be proven to come from ethical sources. $390; nemoequipment.com

Arc’teryx

Beta Lightweight Jacket

A big change is coming for all outdoor apparel manufacturers, as the use of harmful PFAS materials in waterproof/ breathable membranes is being banned across the globe. Arc’teryx

partnered with Gore to use the new ePE membrane, which forgoes PFAS but still provides the ability to shuck off the elements without sweating you out. Bonus, the new design in the Canadian brand’s trustworthy Beta Lightweight Jacket is lighter than ever, tipping the scales at just 10.6 ounces. $500; arcteryx.com

PACT Pact Lite Bathroom Kit

While exploring the outdoors, you must properly dispose of your poop. It’s one of the easiest things you can do to make outdoor recreation more sustainable. PACT makes that easy with this simple kit that includes a shovel, biodegradable wipes, and tablets to help speed up the break-down process. Get one of these for backpacking and day hikes. $35; pactoutdoors.com

RECOVER BRANDS

COTOPAXI

PATAGONIA

NEMO

PACT

HOUDINI

BUFF

That Out Of Office Feeling.

That Weekend In Sight, Send To Voicemail, Leave The City, Head For The Hills, Freedom To Breathe, Jump In The Puddle, Wind In Your Hair, Outdoor At Last Feeling. That Bridgedale Feeling. bridgedale.com

MANNINGVILLE!

IT’S TIME TO JUST CLOSE YOUR EYES AND CHUCK ONE DOWNFIELD.

by MIKE ROGGE

Let’s get this out of the way, EO readers. Do any of you really care about football? Coach Prime, sure, sure, but the game? I’m going to make a few assumptions here. One of them is you’re at least a little aware of the pigskin. The other is you care very little about it. That is based on the fact Deion Sanders is the most famous recent resident of your state, and he went 4–8 for the beloved Buffs. Like, you care, but not that much.

One time the author Peter Kray and I argued about boots versus sandals in these pages. I won with sandals. Today? I’m here as a guest columnist to make fun of the punch-drunk-lyrical poet in his own column, “Elwayville,” which I’ve appropriately renamed to “Manningville” after former New York Giants Quarterback Eli Manning. Kray loves to tell you how Colorado used to be. I’m hoping if you take anything from this page it’s that you—yes, you— can be part of the way it’s shaped in the future. Because here’s what Eli excelled at…just f*cking chucking a football into the air, eyes closed, and hoping it all worked out. That’s a nice way to live your life sometimes.

"

DRIVE UP TO ELDORA WITHOUT A PLAN AND SEE IF YOU END UP SKIING A BUMP RUN, MAKING A NEW FRIEND ON THE LIFT, OR RUNNING INTO JON KRAUKAUER ON THE SKIN TRACK.

I’m not here to advocate the huckand-pray model of living. Lord knows a landing is as welcomed off a cliff as a wide receiver is in the endzone. But isn’t there just something to…winging it? Closing your eyes and hoping the ball falls into the hands of the right situation? I’m mixing metaphors here, but sometimes it’s nice to swing for the fences and hope it works out— like going for a run without Strava and just, ya know, running. You’ll get home eventually.

I’m going to assume—here’s another one—if you haven’t already tossed this issue in the trash for writing about football in March, many of you moved to Colorado. Do you remember why?

I doubt it was a well-thought-out plan. Plans are for East Coasters, of which I used to be one and occasionally still identify as when I need an excuse for bad behavior. Winging it is for the wayward sons and daughters who heard a song one time, picked up a magazine, or watched a ski film and thought, “Maybe that state is for me.”

If Elwayville is how Colorado used to be then Manningville is advocating for how Colorado should be. Get off the internet. Start leaving your phone and smartwatches at home. Go for a bike ride. Just ride. Smoke a doobie and go see a band you’ve never seen before. You live in Colo-freaking-rado for Eli’s sake! Maybe a pickup Frisbee game in the park?

Drop-in hot yoga, anyone? Adopt a dog, maybe two. Eat a burrito for every single meal. Fall in love in the moments. Drink it all in and up. Slurp it.

Drive up to Eldora without a plan and see if you end up skiing a bump run, making a new friend on the lift, or running into Jon Kraukauer on the skin track. It could happen. Go into the wild. (sorry, Jon, had to).

But first? You have to ditch the idea of Colorado in favor of the reality of Colorado. This is a place built by pioneers, some from other places, who wanted to see what lay beyond the next mountain pass. If you haven’t done it, technically, it’s a first descent for you. Those trailblazers of the ’90s—the Dave Matthews Band fans with their hacky sacks—who discovered Boulder, they had gumption. You can have gumption. You just need to stop making

plans, scrolling Instagram, or trying to live some rose-colored-glasses version of the outdoors. Instead start living in the moment. You’ve heard and read it all before. “Boulder used to be better. Colorado used to be cooler.”

F that. You’re here. You’re writing the next chapter of this state. Make it a good one. No need to rewrite the past. The future is bright, so you better wear shades. Coach Prime Shades by Blenders, of course.

But what do I know? I don’t live in Boulder, and I’m not from the state. Chances are, you aren’t from here either. So why not mix it up, close your eyes, and chuck it downfield? Now is your time. You’re in the big game. It worked for Eli. He beat Tom Brady, the

GO FOR A BIKE RIDE. JUST RIDE.

SMOKE A DOOBIE AND GO SEE A BAND YOU’VE NEVER SEEN BEFORE.

greatest quarterback of all time, twice in the Super Bowl. And if that makes you mad, then I know for sure you’re not from here.

Mike Rogge is the editor of Mountain Gazette, a biannual mountain culture magazine that does not write about football. He lives in California so you can completely disregard everything he wrote here

We Are the Unclaimed Line

Strong, protective, and built for realising winter’s endless possibilities. Whether you’re making a bid for the summit or leading the charge in fresh powder, our ski clothing o ers the warmth, breathability, and freedom of movement you need to claim the next untouched line