COLORADO’S SHERPAS | EXPLORE ESTES PARK | THE MOTET JUNE 2015
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CONTENTS
photo by KEVIN LUBY
June 2015
INTO THE WILD: MILES OF WILDERNESS AHEAD. FLY RODS PACKED. TWO WOEFULLY UNDER PREPARED DUDES. A CRAPPY MAP. WHAT COULD GO WRONG? SEE PAGE 44.
DEPARTMENTS
FEATURES
9 EDITOR’S LETTER
26 The Must-do Hikes
The earthquake in Nepal hit home with Colorado's Sherpa community.
Your summer is too short. To that end, we want to help you make the most of it. These six hikes—ranging from day strolls to summit toppers— will give you the most bang for your buck. By Chris Kassar.
11 QUICK HITS Find inspiration on Salida's Art Walk, volunteer to run with wolves, Kelly Cordes' The Tower, and more.
28 Dog Contest Winners 15 FLASHPOINT A new Forest Service plan is opening up drilling on Colorado's eastern plains. Will the Pawnee Buttes survive? By Elizabeth Miller
19 HOT SPOT Ignore the kitsch. Estes Park is the Front Range's adventure capital.
The readers have spoken. Meet the top adventure dogs!
33 The Elevation Outdoors Summer 2015 Peak Gear Awards We spent days out in the wild beating on this gear and can confidently claim it deserves the most prestigious (at least among dirtbags) award in the outdoors. Peak Gear is here!
21 THE TRAIL Download the free ViewRanger app and ride little-known Fooses Creek.
23 STRAIGHT TALK Ben Clark dishes on "Nolan's 14" the hardest trail run on the planet.
43 HEAR THIS The Motet funks up Red Rocks.
44 THE ROAD A fly fishing day trip to the remote Arrowhead Lake sounded like the ultimate bro-down. It turned into an epic sufferfest. By Kevin Luby
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46 ELWAYVILLE Why DBs won't ruin your summer.
It’s always hard to leave paradise. Packing up camp on a sunny morning in Coyote Gulch, Grand Staircase - Escalante National Monument, UT- Andrew Burr
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CONTRIBUTORS
06.15
WHAT'S THE BEST PLACE YOU HAVE EVER CAMPED? ElevationOutdoors.com EDITORIAL E D ITO R - I N - C HIE F
DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN
doug@elevationoutdoors.com MANAGING EDITOR
CAMERON MARTINDELL
cameron@elevationoutdoors.com S E N I O R E DITOR
CHRIS KASSAR
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C O N T R I B UT I N G WRIT E RS
EUGENE BUCHANAN, ROSE CONRY, AARON GULLEY, JEDD FERRIS, WILL HARLAN, KEVIN LUBY, RADHA MARCUM, ELIZABETH MILLER, AVERY STONICH, RACHEL WALKER ART + PRODUCTION MEGAN JORDAN
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DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN A sleeping bag on the edge of the Stromboli volcano crater in Sicily, watching as it spewed lava into the night.
ELIZABETH O'CONNELL Gunnison National Forest just outside of Mt. Crested Butte past Gothic. Hiking, fishing, not a lot of other people.
CAMERON MARTINDELL The most interesting was in a tent just a few miles from the South Pole. The 24-hour sunlight is always a trip.
CHRIS KASSAR On the water surrounded by snowcapped peaks in Seyðisfjörður, a town in the Eastfjords of Iceland.
ROB COPPOLILLO La Grave, France, at the bottom tram station. My wife woke up and said, "There's a camel outside." The circus had come to town and the outfit's camel was hanging beside our camper van. "I told you so." Yes, she did.
ELIZABETH MILLER Trekking through India, we stopped near a high mountain temple, looking over the valleys we’d traversed over the previous days. Locals came down at evening to make offerings while we made dinner, and they shared the sweets they were leaving for the gods with us.
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EDITOR’S LETTER
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DESTRUCTION ON THE STREETS OF CHANGUNARAYAN
photo courtesy DZI FOUNDATION
SHERPA STRONG When a series of earthquakes leveled Nepal this spring, it was not just our climber friends on Everest who were affected. It was our friends all over Nepal and back here that we are still worried about. The Nepalese and Sherpa communities are strong, active and loving in Colorado and many of our Nepalese friends and their families were left homeless, their lives rubble. The Sherpa people are not some porters in a distant land, they are people who are a part of our lives here, who love the mountains with us. They are our family, and they still need our help. So it's no surprise that the Colorado (and the larger outdoor community) relief effort has been so strong. Mountaineer Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita, an ambassador for Sherpa Adventure Gear and part of the family that runs Tibet's Restaurant in Louisville, was immediately out in remote towns, bringing in supplies and sorting through the wreckage. Tibet's hosted a fundraiser for Planet Med Nepal. Boulder's Malcolm and Karen Daly, Tim Harrington and Matt Murray began working with mountaineer Jake Norton and the Embolden Alliance to collect supplies, especially tents and tarps for those left homeless. Murray, a United pilot, flew them over. Pemba Sherpa, a climbing guide and owner of Sherpa's Restaurant in Boulder, determined to raise $200,000 to rebuild 200 homes in Dudh Khosi valley near his hometown of Sengma. The dZi Foundation, a Colorado-and-Kathmandu-based non profit, founded by mountaineers Jim Nowak and Kim Reynolds that has worked for 20 years in remote parts of Nepal to build infrastructure, was immediately on the ground and is continuing to rebuild (the quake damaged 90 percent of the homes in the region where dZi works). “We have the local knowledge and experience on the ground in Nepal,” said dZi's Ben Ayers. “We’re working on getting kids back to school soon.” The work to rebuild Nepal and get the lives shattered by the earthquake back on track is not close to over, however. People are generous when disasters like this are in the spotlight, but it will take a continued, concerted effort for years to bring back Nepal. To keep supporting that effort, think about donating to these worthy organizations that are deeply connected to the Sherpa community both here and in Nepal: The dZi Foundation (dzi.org), Sherpa Adventure Gear (the CrowdRise page is here bit.ly/1F644kc), and the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation (alexlowe.org/p/earthquake-relief). Also, the Embolden Alliance has been on the ground getting food, water and shelter (we donated tents) to people in Nepal (emboldenalliances.org/our-nepal-response/). They still need shelters. You can also visit Tibet’s Restaurant and Bar in Louisville (tibetsrestaurant. com), Sherpa’s Adventurers Restaurant and Bar in Boulder (sherpasrestaurant. com) and the Sherpa House Restaurant and Cultural Center in Golden (ussherpahouse.com), to support the Colorado Sherpa community and learn more ways to help. You can donate directly to Pemba Sherpa’s efforts for his hometown of Sengma on his YouCaring page (bit.ly/1Ra6gii). Keep up the effort, keep caring and we will rebuild together. J U N E 2 015 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M
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LOOK FOR US AT THESE UPCOMING EVENTS GoPro Mountain Games - JUNE 4-7 FIBArk - JUNE 18-21 Copper Mountain Music Festival - JULY 11 Arise Music Festival - AUGUST 7-9 New West Fest - AUGUST 14-16
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QUICK HITS
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ADVENTURES IN ART MAKE NATURE YOUR STUDIO AT THE SALIDA ART WALK Salida's known as a basecamp for adventures that range from running rapids in Brown's Canyon to bombing singletrack on the Monarch Crest, but the town also has a burgeoning art community. These sculptors, painters, photographers, jewelers and wood and glass workers draw their inspiration from the surrounding landscape, too. “I often head into the canyons and mountains that surround Salida, set up my easel, and paint,” explains artist, Susan Mayfield. “I try to capture the love I feel for this place on each of my canvases.” On June 26-28, this strong community will come together to host Salida Art Walk, a festival celebrating the vibrant art scene growing here in the heart of Colorado. In its 23rd year, Art Walk boasts up to 100 venues showcasing art from 100 different Colorado artists. The weekend is an opportunity for artists to band together and showcase the big talent found in this tiny town. During this three-day extravaganza, galleries will overflow with their work as well as demonstrations, and every inch of town, which received the first Creative District Designation in the state, will be teeming with activity. “We want to turn the whole town into a creative hub for art lovers, makers of art and collectors,” explains Jimmy Sellars, co-director with William Boddy, another local artist found in this tiny town. Oh and it will be a ton of fun. Enjoy concerts from 20 local musicians on three different stages, dance numbers and theatrical performances like Shakespeare in the Park. Keep an eye out for the Salida Circus and the infamous Mud People who’ll be roaming the streets. Get dirty with a hands-on, kid-friendly pottery or mosaic class or hone your phone photography skills with a quick iPhoneography workshop taught by a pro. Celebrate Salida’s rich biking history as you look on in awe at human-powered works of art racing by in the Kinetic Bike Contest. Buy a piece that strikes you from a gallery or bid on one at the silent auction. “Living here keeps me in touch with nature and I photo by GARY NICHOLS/COURTESY OF SOUTH PARK PLEIN AIR ARTS CELEBRATION
PRIDE OF BOB ROSS: SUSAN MAYFIELD GETS HER NATURE VIBE DOWN ON THE CANVAS.
love that I can pass that energy on through the wares I make,” says Mark Rittman, owner and artist at The Maverick Potter. Art Walk is a chance to see Colorado’s bounty through the eyes of skilled artisans who use their craft to capture the spirit of nature like few can— but, don’t stop there. While visiting this unique corner of our state, get out and find the muse, known as nature, for yourself. When you’re not wandering from gallery to gallery, jump in the river, ride a world-class trail, climb a peak or float through the heart-pumping rapids of newly designated Browns Canyon National Monument. salidaartwalk.org —Chris Kassar
WHISTLESTOP WILDERNESS BEST TRIP OF THE SUMMER? RIDE THE DURANGO–SILVERTON TRAIN TO ACCESS CHICAGO BASIN AND THE WEMINUCHE’S HIGHEST PEAKS. Want to fast track into the backcountry? Catch a ride on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, which has two stops along the edge of the Weminuche Wilderness. Take in the views as the historic coal-fired train chugs along a narrow ledge overlooking the Animas River. When the whistle blows, hop off at Needleton and head for the hills. Here the rugged Needle Mountains thrust skyward, topping out on Mount Eolus, Sunlight Peak, and Windom Peak—each just a hair over 14,000 feet. From Needleton, it’s a half-mile walk to the trailhead, then a steady six-mile grunt up 3,000 feet to Chicago Basin. Set up camp and wake early so you bust out all three fourteeners in one shot (solid hiking and climbing skills recommended). Or simply chillax in the basin or hike to Twin Lakes. You’ll see lots of mountain goats, which can be pesky in their quest for your pee (they’re after the salt). May–October, one train a day stops at Needleton, one hour 20 minutes from Durango. Reservations recommended. $91, plus $10 per backpack. fs.fed.us/ r2/sanjuan and durangotrain.com Turn to page 26 for our extended backpack trip recommendation here. —Avery Stonich
GEAR WE LOVE LAND SHARK INSTANT SURVIVAL SHELTER
There are lots of survival shelters/ blankets out there, but few are as versatile as the 38-inch-by-80-inch Land Shark. A thin layer of aluminized film surrounded by reinforced ripstop fabric radiates body heat and holds up to abuse. It works on land and in water, and includes a whistle and storage case. $70; land-shark.com
BOOKS THE TOWER: A CHRONICLE OF CLIMBING AND CONTROVERSY ON CERRO TORRE Accomplished climber Kelly Cordes bravely and thoughtfully digs into the controversy started in 1959 by Italian climber Cesare Maestri after claiming the first ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia. Opinions run the gamut about the bolted route Maestri eventually installed and that’s only the beginning. $28; kellycordes.com
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SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO FOOD, ART AND ADVENTURE OUT THE DOOR. VISIT THE CAPITAL OF THE LAND OF ENCHANTMENT AND YOU’LL UNDERSTAND WHY THE EDITORS OF OUTSIDE MAGAZINE WHO LIVE HERE LOVE TO TURN THEIR NOSES UP AT BOULDER.
EAT
Sante Fe is no stranger to good food. And lest you think it’s all purely southwestern style, there is more diversity than you might think. For example, Raaga (raagacuisine.com), headed up by Chef Paddy Rawal, serves up traditional Indian fare as well as a number of fusion dishes blending Indian and southwestern flavors. Paddy makes regular rounds through the dining area and is happy to chat about his creations (and he just published a cookbook). If you’re going to Santa Fe for the southwestern cooking pop into Cowgirl (cowgirlsantafe.com). Here you can get your BBQ fix along with great steak, salads, burgers and other comfort foods smothered in green chili. A table-side playground makes it easy to bring the younguns and the stage here regularly hosts live music. Be sure to try the Ice Cream Baked Potato.
SLEEP
If you’re looking for a place to park and leave your car for the duration of your visit then check out photo by CHRIS CORRIE
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the Sage Inn (santafesageinn.com) located within walking distance to all things downtown, the train station, farmers market, museums and restaurants. The rooms range from the standard double queen to roomy suites. A continental style breakfast is included. For those looking to get a bit out of town, the luxurious Bishop’s Lodge (bishopslodge.com) is just a few minutes drive from downtown and offers up a wide range of rooms and villas. On property dining is great for early starts to a big day or kick back and take it easy. Mountain bike trails and horse stables are right on property for easy access.
PLAY
Here’s where choices are really going to get difficult, no matter how much time you spend in the area. While there are a number of great in-town historic
ENCHANTED: READ UP ON NEW MEXICO MAGIC.
tours, consider getting on a tour that takes you beyond the city limits. 4x4 by Fun (4x4byfun.com) founder Georges Malley uses 4x4’s to take guests out of the downtown and onto dirt roads overlooking the city and the surrounding area. For some cruisy day hikes get out to Bandelier National Monument (nps.gov/band) and become immersed in a place inhabited over 11,000 years ago. Or, for something bigger including hiking, mountain biking and more hit up the Valles Caldera National Preserve (vallescaldera.gov) where the landscape changes dramatically from one ridge to the next. —Cameron Martindell
GO WILD, GIVE BACK VOLUNTEER TO RESTORE COLORADO’S BACKCOUNTRY TRAILS OR NATURAL ECOLOGY, SHARE OUTDOOR ADVENTURES OR CARE FOR WILDLIFE. TRAIL WORK Preserve the Colorado Trail’s 486 miles for future hikers to explore. From June to September, the Colorado Trail Foundation organizes one- to eight-day volunteer work crews on sections needing maintenance. The foundation provides food and equipment for the crew and charges a small fee to help defray these costs. The Colorado Fourteeners’ Initiative offers similar opportunities, but focuses its efforts on reducing human impact to the state’s popular peaks. Don’t have a week to dedicate to the trails? Along with multi-day opportunities, Volunteers for Outdoor Colorado organizes day projects throughout the state. Celebrate Father’s Day by planting native grasses on the outskirts of Greely or remove invasive flowers in Nederland’s James Peak Wilderness. OUTDOOR EDUCATION Want to be active when you volunteer? At the Breckenridge Outdoor Education Center’s Adaptive Cycling Program you can bike around Summit County with a participant for the day. Or join the Challenge by Choice Adventure Retreat and spend a week cycling, hiking, rafting and canoeing with an adult with a brain injury. The center requires training, personal health insurance and a $25 background check. Or introduce youth to the outdoors with SOS Outreach. Its three Colorado offices organize Backyard Adventures day camps throughout the summer. Paddle, rock climb or mountain bike with campers for a day or an entire week. SOS Outreach requires volunteers pass a background check, too.
photo by MISSION: WOLF
ANIMAL CARETAKING Care for wolves, lions, tigers or bears. Located just outside of Fort Collins, W.O.L.F. invites volunteers to feed its rescued wolves and clean their enclosures, as well as do odd jobs around the property. Volunteers must attend full-day orientation and commit to helping at the sanctuary two days per month for six months. Mission: Wolf, a two-hour drive from Pueblo, also relies on volunteers to care for their wolves and horses. Interested parties can send an email to the refuge. Mission: Wolf provides space for the volunteers to camp, a bathroom and water access for up to two weeks. Longer-term volunteer opportunities are also an option. Northeast of Denver, The Wild Animal Sanctuary cares for almost 400 large exotic animals. Contribute to their care by constructing habitats or preparing meat. On the observational walkway, volunteers also educate visitors about the animals. Volunteers must commit 16 hours per month for six months and make a $60 deposit, refundable once they complete their six-month service. —Rose Conry
JOIN THE PACK: MISSION: WOLF CO-FOUNDER KENT WEBER AND ZEAB THE WOLF EDUCATE GROUPS ABOUT THE IMPORTANCE OF CANIS LUPUS.
BACON MAKES EVERYTHING BETTER We got so excited about the prospect of a festival based around the world’s best sizzling meat product that we messed up the dates when we listed the Blue Ribbon Bacon Tour at Keystone in last month’s Festival Guide. This celebration of all things bacon will take place this month, June 27–28 (not July). We suggest that you come and cosume! keystonefestivals.com
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1-800-BLU-SKYS | www.alamosa.org
Medano Lake Great Sand Dunes National Preserve 14
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FLASHPOINT
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WHAT LIES BENEATH THERE’S PLENTY OF UNTAPPED ENERGY RESOURCES OUT ON COLORADO’S GREAT EASTERN PLAINS, BUT CAN IT BE EXTRACTED WHILE PRESERVING THE SUBTLE BEAUTY OF THESE GRASSLANDS? by ELIZABETH MILLER Our trail through the Pawnee National Grasslands winds through a beige moonscape, past fins of blond earth and the tan flanks of bluffs. Footprints fill these dry sandy creek beds instead of running water. We hike straight out and back to the Pawnee Buttes, sandy pillars that erupt out of an otherwise flat landscape. We see a few hikers, then fewer, and by the time we arrive at the East Butte, there’s just one group of four huddled at the base of the butte. Their voices are the only sound we hear as we approach, other than the wind hissing over the dry grass. The longer we hike, the more colors emerge from the landscape—there's rust, sage, gold, emerald, lavender, pink. “If you just get out of your car and look around for 20 seconds, there’s nothing there, and you get back in your car and you just drive through it,” Trevor Pellerite, president of the Colorado Prairie Initiative, says of the Pawnee grasslands. “But if you spend an hour walking around, you’ll notice there are ants going about their business, and there are grasshoppers on the sunflowers, and there are birds eating all the bugs, and there are five different kinds of raptors, and there are herds of antelope—it’s the fastest animal on the planet, and you get to watch it. It’s just this wide open space where there’s so much going on and it’s all in perfect sync.” Pellerite fell in love with wide open spaces working as a ranch hand and hunting guide in eastern Montana. Now, through the Colorado Prairie Initiative, he campaigns for better care of these places and the wildlife that find a home here, advocating for reintroduction of bison and eradication of invasive Russian thistle (a.k.a. tumbleweed). The Colorado Prairie Initiative has also been pressing federal agencies to responsibly and sustainably manage the oil and gas resources photo by ELIZABETH MILLER
that lie beneath what’s left of the Great Plains. New technology and increasing demand for those minerals has called for the reassessment of how the federal government oversees them. The U.S. Forest Service has recently completed a two-year process to assess existing oil and gas development on Pawnee National Grasslands to determine how to handle more leases in that area. Their decision proposes oil and gas companies use horizontal drilling methods to access oil and gas without leaving a footprint on the grasslands. All un-leased lands on the Pawnee National Grasslands to be available to lease— yielding royalties of more than $240 million—with a stipulation against locating wells and well pads on those lands. BELOW THE SURFACE
The Pawnee National Grasslands encompasses a 30-by-60-mile area of prairie in northeastern Colorado. The place is popular for camping, bird watching and hiking, and it includes the geologic anomaly of the Pawnee Buttes. Land ownership is a checkerboard: Those who still own and ranch or farm on the land, and public land purchased back from those tired of working on these arid plains that often yield more in dust than in corn or cattle. All of it sits over the top of the Denver-Julesberg Basin, considered by energy companies among the hottest oil and gas plays in the country. It’s not the only energy source at work here. On the northern horizon, windmills stretch out into the haze, sending electricity back to cities to the south. Public Pawnee land has 62 currently active oil and gas wells. Driving through the area, it’s easy to count more wellheads than that, and condensate tanks to collect oil or gas or produced water cluster together up to 30 at a time. Most of those wells are situated on private land and have provided ranchers and farmers with a financial boost in a cash-strapped time. Oil and gas exploration in this area dates to 1950, but the real run on minerals here began in 2009, around the time horizontal drilling technology was developed and hydraulic fracturing, or fracking, became the prevailing method for accessing oil and gas in shale reserves. That technology made possible the decision signed off by the Arapaho Roosevelt National Forest and Pawnee National Grassland that opened the way for the Bureau of Land Management to lease 44 parcels for oil and gas development in the Pawnee National Grasslands last month. One of the
ROAD TO NOWHERE? THERE'S MORE THAN OIL HERE.
major oil and gas companies working in the area, Noble Energy, also announced it plans to dedicate more than 60 percent of its onshore drilling budget to developing Colorado's oil and gas reserves. But these and future wells here will be established outside the grasslands and drill up to two miles into it. “Allowing the leases to take place, but not allowing any surface occupancy, they can go underneath the grassland to retrieve those resources and not have to necessarily build as many wells on private land,” says Reghan Cloudman, public affairs specialist for Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests and Pawnee National Grasslands. This plan was seen as posing the least risks of adverse environmental impacts to wildlife, scenery, fisheries and recreation as well as the risks of soil, surface water and groundwater contamination. Associated effects of oil and gas, including traffic from well sites, emissions, road development and pipelines, are also expected to be limited. The forest supervisor contends the plan reduces the environmental impacts of the activity by consolidating it.
“The minerals are still going to be developed. The wells are going to be drilled on land that’s next to the grasslands.” The options considered included banning leases altogether, but according to the Forest Service’s analysis, that course of action might have created inefficiencies in accessing minerals that increased surface land disturbance, wells and well pads by 10 percent to 50 percent. “It’s kind of counterintuitive. When you think ‘no leasing’ you think no impact, but for the overall landscape we would likely see more oil and gas facilities on private land than if we chose the no surface occupancy,” Cloudman says. “We chose this because it allows for the extraction of the oil and gas resources while providing the most protection for our surface resources that we as the Forest Service are responsible for.” J U N E 2 015 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M
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Photo by Jon Jonckers
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Banning leasing would also fail to foster development of resource-based industries, as called for by the guiding legislation for the Forest Service, and cost the federal government their 12.5 percent royalties on 412 million barrels of oil and 815 thousand cubic feet of natural gas. The Forest Service estimates $241 million in federal royalties; 1,600 direct, indirect and induced jobs; and a $99.7 million per year contribution to the region’s economy for 30 years. The Forest Service received an estimated 2,500 letters on the project. Much of the public concern centered on the use of fracking on the grasslands, Cloudman says, but that’s a matter for the Bureau of Land Management. Environmental and hiking advocacy groups have objected that ongoing oil and gas development may further compromise the shortgrass prairie ecosystem and the experience for those who hike, bird watch or hunt there. “You’re talking about industrializing land and putting in heavy equipment and dangerous equipment in areas that have been previously undeveloped. This isn’t the factory going in on a city block. This is virgin landscape,” says Jeremy Nichols, climate and energy program director for WildEarth Guardians, which has formally objected to the Forest Service’s decision. “When you look at the national grasslands, they are these truly vital remnants of what the Great Plains used to be. They’re undeveloped, unindustrialized and relatively untouched. They are critical hotspots for biodiversity and for the outdoor recreation that they provide.” The grasslands are within a nine-county area that’s above the recommended level for ozone, a key component of smog. And whatever the short-term boost from revenue from leases and royalties, Nichols says, the long term social costs of carbon and methane created by new wells will far outweigh those benefits. The Forest Service’s plan has some merits in terms of protecting the grasslands, he says, “But when you look at the region as a whole, it’s a zero sum outcome. The minerals are still going to be developed. The wells are going to be drilled on land that’s next to the grasslands.”
“‘As far as oil and gas,’ he says, ‘It’s been the best thing that has ever happened to the landowners in northeastern Colorado. It has saved us.’” PAYING THE RENT
Not everyone out here agress with Nichols, however. Leonard Ball’s family has been cattle ranching in the national grasslands since 1914 and he still runs about 400 head of black angus cattle on his 15,000 acres. The impacts of the oil and gas boom of the last few years are minimal, he says, and he’s confident that the industry is well-regulated and safe. “As far as oil and gas,” he says, “It’s been the best thing that has ever happened to the landowners in northeastern Colorado. It has saved us.” When his grandfather bought the Lazy S Over S ranch property, he got the mineral rights with it for an extra $1 per acre. A few years ago, Ball was able to lease those mineral rights to an oil and gas company. It wasn’t even a very good well, he says, but it’s made a big difference. “We’re 100 years old this year, and it actually put money in the bank to where we’re debt-free, and we’ve never been debt-free,” he says. Companies rent access to the land and pay a percentage, usually 12 to 15 percent, of whatever comes out of the well. Some farmers and ranchers, who were coming out of an era in which cattle prices dropped and hay prices soared, got $200,000 to $250,000. Pawnee isn’t on the way to anything. You might not even be able to get to the Pawnee Buttes on purpose—one of the signs is barely legible and the directional arrow totally obscured by dust. What makes it worth fighting for? Pellerite’s biggest worry is that when people look at it, they say what they first see: Nothing. “I think a lot of people just think of it as an open space that’s between snowboarding and Chicago. It’s so much more than that,” he says. “It’s one of the most imperiled ecosystems on the planet and it needs protection. There are plenty of responsible methods to use and areas to go to for oil and gas, and I just don’t think the shortgrass prairie needs to be one of them. And if it is, then so be it, but it needs to be done in a way that protects this ecosystem.” Elizabeth Miller has been covering environmental issues for Boulder Weekly since 2011.
Continental Divide Trail
“There are some who can live without wild things and some who cannot.” – Aldo Leopold
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PARK PLACE SURE, THERE ARE PLENTY OF TOURISTS HERE, BUT TOMMY CALDWELL’S HOME TOWN IS ALSO A PRIME LOCATION FOR HIGH ADVENTURE. FOLLOW OUR GUIDE TO DO ESTES PARK RIGHT. By CHRIS KASSAR
It’s hard to believe that the gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park is just a 90 minute drive from downtown Denver. With its postcard-perfect scenery, small-town vibe and enough outdoor thrills to last a lifetime, Estes Park feels like a different world (just stay away from the kitsch and crowds on the main drag). Though the 2013 floods took their toll on the town and the park itself, both are nearing a full recovery. There’s another big reason to get up here soon, too. Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year. So load up the vehicle and make a quick drive to big adventure. Here are our ideas for how to best spend your time: HIT THE TRAIL What better way to celebrate 100 years of protection, than getting out on the 300 miles of trails that crisscross RMNP . Embrace the numbers: The park counts 450 square miles of mountains and meadows, 150 lakes, miles of river and streams and a wide variety of ecosystems that support moose, bighorn sheep, bears, mountain lions and iconic elk in its catalog of wonders. For an easy, but beautiful stroll, take the scenic and flower-full Bluebird Lake Trail, which follows St. Vrain Creek to reach stunning sites that include Calypso Cascades, Ouzel Falls, Ouzel Lake and, ultimately, the shores of Bluebird Lake itself. If you’re looking for a full or multi-day adventure, set out to climb one of the park’s 77 peaks that top out over 12,000 feet. Got your heart set on a Fourteener? Ascend 14,423-foot Longs Peak, but for a quieter, equally challenging climb, hit nearby Mt. Meeker (13,991 feet) or try easy-to-access Flattop Mountain (12,324 feet) or Hallet Peak (12,713 feet) for equally stunning, but less lung-busting endeavors. To avoid crowds altogether, hike Twin Sisters Peaks, a duo of 11,400-foot mountains on the east side of the park. On this 7.4 mile round-trip endeavor, you’ll wander through stands of aspens and be rewarded with unfettered views of Longs, Meeker, the Estes Cone, the Divide and the Mills Glacier (headwaters of the Roaring Fork River). If you don’t have to stand atop a summit, some of our other favorite trails include Glacier Gorge to Black Lake, Longs Peak Trail to Chasm Lake, the oft-overlooked Bridal Veil Falls in the Lumpy Ridge area and the Ute Trail, which wanders through alpine tundra from the Alpine Visitor Center to Milner Pass. For more on hikes and information, visit the RMNP website (nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/hiking. htm) or grab Falcon Guide’s Hiking Rocky Mountain National Park, 10th: Including Indian Peaks Wilderness by Kent Dannen. photo courtesy VISIT ESTES PARK
CLIMB SOME ROCK There’s a good reason why Tommy Caldwell calls Estes Park home. From the crack climbs of Lumpy Ridge to the gorgeous big-wall granite of Longs Peak’s Diamond Face, the area offers up some of the best climbing in the state. Both new and experienced climbers will have fun with the wide, tough cracks at Twin Owls. Our favorite routes here include the off-width Crack of Fear (5.10d), the easy-but-fun Pin Route (5.4), and the deep threepitch chimney known as Bowels of the Owls. You can also put your skills to the test on infamous high alpine routes including the classic, lovely nine-pitch North Ridge of Spearhead (5.6) and the famed testpiece multi-pitch Casual Route up the Diamond on Longs Peak (seven pitches, 5.10a, class IV). Our other favorite climbs in the Estes area include the southeast face of Taylor Peak (sevenpitch, 5.6 alpine rock and 50-60 degree snow), North Ridge Pagoda Peak (six to seven pitches of 5.6 alpine rock), and the South Face of the Petit Grepon (seven to eight pitches of 5.8+). For beta or a guide, contact Colorado Mountain School (coloradomountainschool.com) or pick up Falcon Guides’s Best Climbs Rocky Mountain National Park: Over 100 of the Best Routes on Crags and Peaks by Stewart M. Green. ANGLE AWAY If you’d rather stay close to the ground, grab a fly rod and cast away into world-class waters full of a variety of trout including brown, brook, rainbow and even native greenback cutthroat (read Kevin Luby’s story on the travails of seeking those beauties on page 44). You can take your pick from countless high alpine lakes including Black Lake, Lake Haiyaha, Mirror Lake or our favorite, Thunder Lake, accessible from the relatively quiet Wild Basin entrance, which is 19-miles south of Estes Park on Highway 7. Since it’s a 6.6 mile hike into Thunder Lake, which rests in a stunning bowl below the Continental Divide and Tanima Peak, it’s best to obtain a backcountry camping permit and make a mini-vacation out of your angling adventure.
HIGH COUNTRY HIGHBALLING: ESTES PARK SERVES UP SOME OF THE BEST ALPINE CRAGGING IN NORTH AMERICA.
Or hit the much more accessible Big Thompson River, Fern Lake, the North St. Vrain River and Ouzel Creek, Lawn Lake and Ypsilon Lake and Creek. All provide outstanding scenery and amazing fishing. For conditions, licenses and guided trips hit Kirk’s Fly Shop in Estes (kirksflyshop.com). Or book a guide through Rocky Mountain Anglers in Boulder (rockymountainanglers.com), who will also set you up with a first-class lunch from Dish Gourmet (dishgourmet.com).
THE ESSENTIALS STAY | To fully connect with nature, grab a backcountry permit and stay at one of the park camp sites (you will want to book well ahead of time and must obtain the backcountry permit in person at the office near Beaver Meadows Visitor Center). For more civilized accommodations, nothing compares to Rams Horn Village Resort (luxuryestesparkcabins.com), which offers modern cabins perched at the entrance of RMNP. These family-friendly cabins offer up the comforts of home while providing access to everything the park and Estes have to offer. EAT | Hit the eco-friendly Rock Inn Mountain Tavern (rockinnestes.com), a classic pub that serves up delicious mountain cuisine. Enjoy local live music and a wide selection of beer, wine and cocktails. Do not miss out on the most delicious app ever: Devils on Horseback, bacon wrapped dates stuffed with garlic! With an overwhelmingly large menu, Ed’s Cantina (edscantina.com) dishes out awesome and fresh Mexican salads, sandwiches and classic entrees, not to mention margs that are not to be missed. —C.K.
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POWERED BY
THE TRAIL
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DOWNLOAD APP viewranger.com/gpsadventure
ROUTE CODE: ELEV0037 Scan for this route’s GPS Hike!
6. LORDLY VIEW: THE TYPICAL MONARCH CREST CROWDS ARE NOWHERE TO BE SEEN ON THIS QUICK CUTOFF.
FOOSES CREEK DOWNLOAD THE FREE GPS APP AND COORDINATES AND ESCAPE THE CROWDS BY TAKING THIS QUICK, LITTLE-USED CUTOFF ON THE MONARCH CREST TRAIL. by CHRIS KASSAR The Monarch Crest Trail deserves all the hype it gets. And mountain bikers (as well as hikers) have options: Multiple side routes like Silver Creek, Marshall Pass, Agate Creek or Greens Creek mean the trail can be different each time you ride it. Want a quick ride? Try the peaceful, stunning and oft-overlooked Fooses Creek. This point-to-point 12-plus-mile adventure begins just below 9,000 feet and climbs to almost 12,000 feet. If you’re biking, you can shuttle to the top— Subculture Cyclery (subculturecyclery.com) and High Valley Shuttle (monarchcrest.com) offer rides—and bomb down, but, for those in good shape, the fairly mellow grades make it a tough, but doable ride up, too. GET STARTED
From Poncha Springs drive west on US 50 toward Monarch Pass for just under 10 miles. Turn left at the turnoff for CR 225 and follow this paved road—which eventually turns to dirt—for just under two miles. Begin riding (or hiking) this gradual dirt road. THE ROAD LESS TRAVELED
After less than a mile, you’ll reach an intersection with another 4WD road. Head left to stay on CR 225. HIT THE TRAIL
After about two miles, leave CR 225 and turn left onto 225 C which quickly morphs into the Colorado Trail (1776) and your first taste of sweet singletrack. Note the South Fooses Creek Trailhead sign. Cruise over a tiny wooden bridge to cross over North Fooses Creek which comes in from the left.
forest. Note the lovely ponds on your right and keep an eye out for industrious beavers. At this point, your legs and lungs might be screaming. Distract yourself from the pain by looking up and enjoying the breathtaking views all around. INTO THE GREAT WIDE OPEN
This sometimes narrow, but navigable, shady trail climbs and cruises through the trees, over a rough log bridge and eventually hits a rocky technical section that will add to the fun factor and challenge your bike-handling (or trail-running). Enjoy all the oxygen here; in less than .25 miles you’ll break 11,000 feet and won’t dip below this altitude again for the duration of your escapade. Shortly after the technical boulder garden, the trail pops out of the trees and climbs steeply upward. BACK IN THE SADDLE
Push up a loose and rough bit of trail to reach a tiny saddle and the Monarch Crest Trail proper. Grab a snack and reward yourself with an amazing view of the Collegiate Peaks. When you’re ready, head right on the Crest Trail. 7.
CRUISING ON THE CREST
You’ve just passed the highest elevation of this journey (11,946 feet) and Peel Point rises to your right. All the major climbing is behind you so relax and enjoy the rolling and rugged terrain ahead, or turn around and head back down from here. 8.
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ALMOST THERE
You’ve been working for over 10 challenging miles, but the end is in sight. Only two more miles at this point so be sure to enjoy the sweeping vistas provided by this wide open corner. 9.
BREATHE EASY
Enjoy the last downhill cruise to reach the very busy Monarch Pass parking lot. After you find the friend who is supposed to pick you up—or the car you’ve stashed here—take a peak in the gift shop. Grab a souvenir or a drink and ice cream to speed your recovery. Better yet. Turn cyclists can turn around and ride the whole thing back down.
ENCHANTED FOREST
Breathe deep and inhale the solitude of this
Scan for all Elevation Outdoors’ published routes!
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photo by CHRIS KASSAR J U N E 2 015 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M
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STRAIGHT TALK
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BEN CLARK AND “NOLAN’S 14” HEADED OUT ON A FIFTH ATTEMPT AT THE HARDEST RUN ON THE PLANET, THE FILMMAKER TALKS ABOUT WHAT IT TAKES TO PULL OFF THE GRITTIEST CHALLENGE IN MOUNTAIN SPORTS. by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN Nolan’s 14 is arguably the hardest thing to pull off in the sport of mountain running. It is not a race. It’s not even a sanctioned event anymore. It is simply a standing challenge—participants must traverse 14 14,000-foot summits in Colorado’s Sawatch Range in under 60 hours. The route is up to the participant, but only 15 percent of those who have attempted it, since it began in 2001, have been able to finish. Former Himalayan mountain guide Ben Clark attempted the route four times and has yet to complete it (he will try a fifth time this month). He has, however completed a documentary called “Nolan’s 14,” which chronicles the pain, joys, and history of the run. The film will be making the rounds this summer on the Ragnar Trail Series and at hosted screenings presented by Osprey Packs (check the schedule at bclarkmtn.com). You can also purchase it for home viewing on Vimeo, with $1 going to support Paradox Sports. We caught up with Clark just before he set out on his latest solo, unsupported attempt. What exactly makes Nolans’s 14 so difficult? It’s a high-altitude adventure that requires a great bit of flexibility and a unique skill set. The "completed" line linking 14 fourteener summits is not a set route, other than those 14 specific points. An attempt can be made traveling on foot between them in any order, direction and style. Because of that flexibility, the distance can vary from 88–103 miles, although the amount of vertical gain and loss stays the same at around 46,000 feet both ways. Shorter is not always better, which is counterintuitive and often adjustments have to be made on the fly because of weather, darkness and logistics if the attempt is supported by a crew or pacers. How do the few who do finish manage to do it? What's the secret? Low precipitation seems to be the one common theme to every successful completion. Route knowledge and fitness more akin to ultramarathon runners than mountaineers is equally important. What inspired you to make the film? I was getting footage with small cameras while I scouted so I could have it as a log to figure out the route. It was clear that a lot of others who had made attempts also had personal footage or photos of the route, too. Enough, I found out, to make a film. I felt people would enjoy learning about what others had experienced and aspire to do it themselves. I wanted to encourage that. With four documentaries already under my belt, I knew it would be a challenge, but I also was uniquely qualified to rise to the occasion. photo by ANDREW MAGUIRE
How did your experience as a guide for so many years play into how you approach this film project? I love sharing the mountains with others and spent most of my early twenties as a guide. Around 2005, I put out the film “Everest: The Other Side” about my ascent of Everest at 23 years old. From 2007–2012, I increased my climbing risk level to pioneering alpine climbs and ski descents. Guiding became less of a priority. But the desire to be able to share that sense of discovery and adventure never waned, and through several projects I found ways to include media. I always felt that it wasn't enough to go these places on my own and take them in just for me. Do you worry about public land managers closing down something like Nolan's? Could they even if they wanted too? A large group of friends developed and attempted Nolan's 14 in the early 2000s. It started as three people and grew to be a real celebration of the run. When the group size swelled to more than 15, the Forest Service asked them to cease organizing and attempting it as a large group. That was a gamechanger, the line was just too big and logistically complicated to consider going alone. But Matt Hart, Jared Campbell and Eric Lee were able to do it successfully almost a decade later. Then in 2014, Andrew Hamilton did it completely unsupported and solo. Going smaller is less impactful and there have been no reports regarding shutting down any smaller attempts or those attempts in any way disrupting the outdoor experiences of those around them. How does something like Nolan's reaffirm the importance of public lands to you? The freedom to roam in the Colorado Rockies is a real privilege. Climbing a line like this, one so much larger than anything I attempted in a decade of focused Himalayan climbing is rare. That there are no permit fees, no private land or mining claims blocking the path to the summits of these peaks is a
CLIMB EVERY MOUNTAIN: OR AT LEAST 14 OF THE HIGHEST IN THE STATE IN LESS THAN 60 HOURS.
real asset that every Coloradoan can experience for themselves. This is a huge region that you can drive right up to and feel as if you are in a faraway land in under an hour on foot, sometimes minutes. That's important, to be able to take in nature, to connect. Why did you choose to raise money for Paradox Sports with the film? I like challenges and encouraging people to challenge themselves. Paradox Sports works with people who are experts at non elective challenges, such as a physical or mental impairment, they are pre-qualified to see another way to do things, something I really admire in people. So far, with donations from the film tour and sales, we raised enough money for Paradox to send two climbers up the Grand Teton. I like that. To be able to set out to share a story for the sake of inspiring others and to have a measurable impact, that's awesome. There is no doubt we can make a difference with it. What was your favorite moment when you were out on the run? On my second attempt in 2013, I endured the first 50 miles of the course in mostly winter conditons with deep snow. Cut loose from my pacer on the second day and chasing sunlight, I finally broke into a clearing and I could see that heading south, the line was finally going to get less complicated and easier. I should have quit long before then but I didn't. I pushed myself to explore this dream and, in that moment, despite 35 hours on foot, I was present and living what I dreamed Nolan's could be—me at my best and the line at it's best. Then all hell broke loose in the skies nine hours later and that attempt ended—but not without that lesson learned.
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MUST-DO HIKES THE SUMMER IS ALL TOO SHORT AND YOU ARE BUSY. IF THAT SOUNDS FAMILIAR, WE ARE LOOKING OUT FOR YOU. WELCOME TO OUR LIST OF THE SIX SINGLE BEST HIKES, PEAKS AND BACKPACK TRIPS FOR BUSY FOLKS. IF YOU ONLY HAVE THE TIME TO DO JUST ONE… WE CAN TELL YOU WHICH ONE TO DO. by CHRIS KASSAR
the Big DAY HIKE SCARPS RIDGE LOOP CRESTED BUTTE, COLORADO
WHAT YOU GET: Dramatic alpine scenery, breathtaking vistas, plentiful wildflowers, waterfalls and a respite from mountain bikers and Texans. DO IT: If you’re looking for a relatively fast and accessible escape from the mundane, try this extremely scenic six-mile loop, which gains about 1,250 feet. You’re sure to experience a shift in mindset as you meander up and along the base of the Ruby Range where Ruby Peak and Mount Owen dominate the landscape. Cross a creek and keep an eye out for a few rambling cascades on the rock faces to your left shortly before you reach tree line. Though your hike begins on a 4WD road, once you hit the tundra, a faint trail guides you to the ridgeline photos by FRED MARMSATER
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where you are greeted with astounding views of rocky cliff bands, Blue Lake, Afley Peak (12,646 feet) and the inspiring Oh-Be-Joyful Valley which stretches out 2,000 feet below. From Scarp Ridge, continue toward Gunsight Pass and follow the trail to loop back to Lake Irwin.
The epic TRAVERSE THE CREST TRAIL, GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK, WYOMING
willing to undertake this five-to-six-day journey, which rarely dips below 8,000 feet, are rewarded with neverending views of Jackson Hole, the Teton Valley, Death Canyon, Battleship Mountain, Cascade Canyon, Mt. Moran and countless other pinnacles. And, of course, when the sentinels of the park— Grand Teton (13,770 feet), Middle Teton (12,804 feet) and South Teton (12,514 feet)—finally come into view, they loom large, adding to the already ubiquitous, mesmerizing mountain scenery.
WHAT YOU GET: Remarkable scenery, superb campsites, abundant wildlife, tons of options to significantly shorten or lengthen the journey.
the wild ramble
DO IT: This 35-40-mile point-to-point route, which links Teton Pass to String Lake visits glimmering alpine lakes, well-known passes including Hurricane and Paintbrush Divide, open meadows bursting with color and craggy mountaintops as it romps along the toothed spine of the Teton Range. Intrepid hikers
WHAT YOU GET: Utter solitude and quiet, trail-less terrain, a wilderness study area with little human intrusion, world-class fishing and excellent wildlife viewing opportunities.
SWEETWATER CANYON, WIND RIVER RANGE, WYOMING
DO IT: Not far from Lander, vast, rolling plains give
way to the high desert refuge of Sweetwater Canyon. Here, the Sweetwater River has carved through blocky granite walls to form rugged 500 foot walls and cliffs dappled with fissures and cracks. Spend two to three days wandering up to 20 miles cross-country through this isolated prairie canyon following your pick of game trails, pushing through brush and hiking across loose rocky slopes. As you drop into the canyon, take note of the southern Wind River Range looming to the east. The river, which slowly snakes through this magnificent canyon, has excellent rainbow and brown trout fishing. Take time to cast into the bountiful pools and riffles scattered throughout the crystal clear water and to wander up the many draws—lined with stands up aspen, willow and birch—leading into and out of the canyon. Wildlife including antelope, desert elk, sage grouse, hawks, falcons and prairie dogs call this canyon home, so stay alert and keep your camera handy.
NR outes ew& INs p IRa t Io N
GRAPHIC ART / MEMOIR / CLIMBING $24.95 U.S.
would be over . . . We’re told it’s “People told me that once I was married and had kids, my adventures car, and start stockpiling the 401(k). good to get comfortable, settle down, buy a bigger house and a better me.” But that’s not necessarily right for everyone. It wasn’t right for
the thirteener
between college and mortgage,” At 32, artist and climber Jeremy Collins found himself “somewhere Inspired in part by his intrepid friend and recognized within a profound need for transformation. resolved to travel in the four cardinal Jonny Copp, who had died tragically in an avalanche, Jeremy first ascents, and to explore a balance directions—north, south, east, and west—to challenge himself on of home. between the pursuit of wilderness adventure and the necessity
MOUNT MEEKER, ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK, COLORADO
WHAT YOU GET: Challenging scrambling, no crowds, postcard-perfect vistas. DO IT: Looking for a peak climb sans crowds? Then head to Mt. Meeker (13,911 feet), one of the state’s finest centennial thirteeners. This hike gently ascends through pine forest, crosses a babbling brook multiple times and spends most of its time above tree line. At 11,580, feet, you can rest at Chasm Meadows, a lush green magical spot bursting with wildflowers, with Meeker and its sister summit, 14,259-foot Longs Peak, towering overhead. The Loft Route—the classic way up this majestic mountain— is an exhilarating class 3 scramble that ascends a broad trough between a prominent rock band called the Ships Prow and the mountain itself. The final push to the summit—which stares straight at the top of Longs and serves up a big view of peaks and plains—requires route finding, traversing a narrow ledge, walking a thin ridge and climbing an exposed summit block to attain the pinnacle. Though this mountain will push the limits of your lungs and legs, traveling amidst giant boulders, shifting earth and towering rock spires, feeds the soul. While you’re alone, on a high between two great peaks, maybe you’ll agree that the fact that so many people dismiss Meeker “because it’s not a Fourteener” is both a blessing and a shame.
the fourteener KIT CARSON PEAK (AND CHALLENGER POINT), CRESTONE, COLORADO
WHAT YOU GET: Breathtaking vistas; challenging (but fun), non-technical climbing and scrambling; enough exposure to scare you and inspire you. DO IT: The jagged high peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains rise abruptly from the valley floor. These sentinels, including Crestone Peak and Needle stand out and rule the skyline from miles away making even the approach an awe-inspiring experience. The equally splendid, but less-often climbed Kit Carson consists of a giant and intricate massif containing Kit Carson Peak (14,165 feet), Challenger Point to the west (14,081 feet) and Kat Carson to the east (13,980 feet). The picturesque Willow Lake Approach brings you to their base via a spectacular, steady climb up a forested valley dappled with waterfalls. Below the headwall, you reach Willow Lake, a huge body of water nestled in a cliff-ringed rocky basin. The lake boasts serene, secluded camping spots and an exquisite cascade that plunges into its east end. Here the
of summits lost and achieved. Drawn: The Art of Ascent is a rich, textured, and soulful visual exploration approach to life he discovers will Although climbing is Jeremy’s catalyst, the more fully realized and asked, “What else is there?” resonate with anyone who has ever looked out an office window
Crestones rise mightily overhead and views back down the valley improve with each step. The standard and exciting route to Challenger Point climbs a long steep rocky slope complete with enjoyable Class 2-3 scrambling. From Challenger, the route traverses across “Kit Carson Avenue,” a wide, adrenaline-inducing ledge around the south side of the mountain that leads to a tiny 13,940 saddle between Kit’s upper cliffs and its south ridge (called the Prow). From here, you scramble up a gully full of hand holds and grippy rock to reach the top where you’ll be greeted with rewards in every direction—take in Blanca Peak, the Sand Dunes, Pikes Peak and of course the Crestones themselves. The illustrative maps and art of Jeremy Collins are frequently featured in Rock and Ice and Alpinist magazines, in numerous books, on a variety of outdooradventure products, and on the cover of National Geographic. For this project, his climbing partners included Tommy Caldwell, Mark Jenkins, Jeff Achey, James Q Martin, Pat Goodman, José Miranda, Mikey Schaefer, Dana Drummond, Corey Rich, and Hayden Kennedy. Visit Jeremy—and see a film version of Drawn—at www.jercollins.com.
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DRawN: the aRt of asceNt Jeremy collins A graphic adventure tale, artfully told. Companion to the film Drawn, now showing in the traveling Banff Film Festival.
the big backpacking adventure THE ELK PARK-NEEDLETON LOOP, WEMINUCHE WILDERNESS, COLORADO
WHAT YOU GET: Alpine lakes, endless vistas, 8,500 of elevation gain and a deep wilderness experience. DO IT: This strenuous, but outstanding 40-plus mile journey through the Weminuche, Colorado’s largest Wilderness Area, brings you through the heart of the rugged San Juan Mountains. This adventure—which we consider one of the best backpacking loops in North America—begins with a unique ride aboard the restored coal-powered Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad to reach the Elk Park trailhead. From here, you’ll spend the next week pushing your legs and lungs and feeding your heart and soul on a well-defined trail that rambles along creeks, climbs through open flower-filled meadows, crosses the Divide (12,840 feet), Hunchback Pass (12,493 feet) and Columbine Pass (12,720 feet) and offers impressive views of Vestal Basin, the Vallecito Valley, Chicago Basin and countless peaks. You’ll pass radiant turquoise lakes, including Eldorado and Kite, which are great spots for fishing or lounging. Though you won’t share the trail with too many other folks, be prepared for a change once you reach Chicago Basin, since peak baggers gather here to tackle numerous fourteeners. If the spirit moves you, join them and spend a day or two climbing Sunlight (14,059 feet), Windom (14,082 feet) and Mt. Eolus (14,083 feet). Once you’ve had your fill, enjoy the 7.5 miles downhill to reach the Animas River and Needleton, where the train comes to whisk you back to “civilization.” WANT MORE? Head to this story on ElevationOutdoors.com where we feature four more Must-Do Hikes, including Capitol Peak (pictured above), Blue Lake, the Gore Range Trail and Wyoming's Cloud Peak Wilderness.
cLassIc fRoNt RaNGe tRaD cLIMBs: MuLtI-pItch Routes 5.4-5.8 Brendan Leonard, Lee smith 75 cLassIc RIDes: coLoRaDo the Best RoaD BIkING Routes Jason sumner free cue sheets for each route
the Best fRoNt RaNGe tRaIL RuNs peter N. Jones
More than 600 outdoor recreation, lifestyle and conservation books in print. available in book and outdoor stores, or online at www.mountaineersbooks.org Mountaineers Books is an independent nonprofit publisher
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BARK LOUD, BARK PROUD WE ASKED OUR CANINE-LOVING READERS TO SEND IN PHOTOS OF THEIR ADVENTURE DOGS AND VOTE TO DETERMINE THE BEST PUPS. THEY (AND THEIR HUMANS) WERE ALL WINNERS—HERE WE GIVE YOU THE DOGS WHO GARNERED THE MOST INTERNET VOTES.
FIRST PLACE JACK
JACK “Jack is always down to explore, but he especially enjoys going fishing or playing in the snow,” says human Taylor Ahearn. “He's loyal and always excited about our adventures, always interested in the fish we catch, and always wants to be around the action. I couldn't ask for a better dog.”
SECOND PLACE
GEMMA "Gemma loves hiking and backpacking adventures up in the mountains (and being able to play in the snow practically yearround). She's not particularly fast or strong, but she's a rescue pup and always happy to be with her human. Seeing her tail wag after a grueling hike up to 13,000 feet makes me want to keep going— not for myself, but for her,” says human Tammy Kulpa.
THIRD PLACE
COTO “When we're not exploring the Gore Range, Coto's favorite adventures are chasing squirrels, birds and marmots and fly fishing. He watches the fly on the water until it is eaten and then will jump right in the water,” says human Scott Bellow. “No matter where we are he's ready at the crack of dawn to watch sunrise and to go put in some miles. He always gets us out of bed. Coto goes to bed early and never complains. His ADD is probably his best trait. We never stop moving and he usually finds the next adventure off and on the trail.”
COTO
EDITOR’S CHOICES These three may not have racked up the most votes online, but we liked these pups so much we just had to include them, too. T-REX “T-Rex the Adventure Dog never did grow to love river trips, but tolerated them pretty well (river running is what we do: BlackCanyonGuides.com),” says human Eric Newell. “He did pretty well on long trail runs and short mountain bike rides. Mostly, our kids just loved playing with him, walking him and snuggling with him. Sadly, about a year after the photo was taken he was killed by an uninsured motorcyclist who was going double the speed limit and on the wrong side of the road. We had just moved into a new place about two weeks before the accident. When we buried T-Rex in the yard, our house became our home.”
GE M M A
SHARKY
T-REX MAGGIE
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SHARKY “Sharky is a ham! She's always up for adventure whether it means a hike in the snow or camping along the Colorado Trail,” says human Mirasol Moncada. “She's most comfortable running free in the great outdoors and her enthusiasm for time in nature is contagious. She is a sweet and light-hearted spirit—a true blessing. She's the absolute best company a human could ask for.” MAGGIE “Maggie was diagnosed with mast cell cancer in January and while it has been difficult, the past few months have been a true blessing as we've had a chance to spoil her and enjoy her companionship,” says human Aurora Arlet. “Despite the cancer, she has kept energetic and happy. She reminds my husband and me that there is always something to be positive about, especially when it involves being outdoors.”
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2015 Fly Fishing Guide Y
ou won’t find many people more passionate about their outdoor addiction in Colorado than fly anglers. The sport is an immersion—in the water, in the game of matching fly and drift to how the fish are feeding, in the intensity, in the thrill of setting the hook. Fly fishing is part of the outdoor adventure résumé here: You ski, you bike and you have your eye out for the best water. And we have your back in this our annual fly fishing guide.
RIO GRANDE
AN UNDISCOVERED GEM
Discover Rio Grande Country where the rivers and mountains are crowded with fish and animals. Not people! Visit www.riograndecountry.com for more information about activities and lodging in three great communities along the Upper Rio Grande: Monte Vista, Del Norte & South Fork. Book your next great adventure today!
There simply are no crowds on the Rio Grande, especially in the fall. After Labor Day, the few anglers who head to the stretch of the river near South Fork, Colorado, find miles and miles of water to themselves. According to Joel Condren, founder and senior guide of South Fork Anglers, “A crowded day on the Rio Grande may ‘only’ offer you a mile or so to yourself.” That’s not because there aren’t fish. Surveys estimate 800 fish per mile in the 22 miles of gold-medal-designated water between South Fork and Del Norte. Above South Fork, the estimate is 1,800 fish per mile. In 2001, local anglers worked with the state to eliminate bait fishing along a 60-mile stretch upstream from South Fork, and with these regulations in place, fish size and populations have exploded. “Since the regulation change, we have seen fishing improve ten-fold,” Condren says. The upper sections of the Rio are a guide’s dream.” Although fall fishing is the least crowded, the Rio is best known for prolific salmon fly (a.k.a. giant stonefly) hatches early in the season, and green drake hatches in early summer. Fishermen from around the world come to fish the Rio mid June to mid July for this dry fly season. “Even then,” Condren says, “a crowded day on this river is less populated than a noncrowded day on other rivers.”
RioGrandeCountry.com SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
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WILD WATER
EVERYTHING YOU NEED Looking to get into the fly fishing game, but wary of spending too much? Check out Wild Water’s Fly Fishing’s starter packages. Each of the six models gives you features that would normally only be found on more expensive outfits, including IM6 material, four-piece construction and a die-cast aluminum reel with a disc drag. All packages include a rod bag, rod case, a waterproof fly box with flies. Plus, the whole package comes ready-to-fish: The backing, line and leader are already installed. The best news about Wild Water’s starter packages, however, is the price. The 3/4 and 5/6 line weight packages start at $99. The 7/8 packages at $124 and 9/10 at $134 (customers can select either freshwater or saltwater fly assortments on the 7/8 and 9/10 models). Each package also comes in a deluxe version that includes extra flies, leader and tippet. Wild Water’s new Switch Rod Package rings in at just $199 and includes an 11-foot, 4-piece two-handed rod and a robust reel with a smooth, strong drag. The newly designed switch line, that comes preloaded on the reel, ensures that the whole package works in perfect balance. The switch rod also has three fly assortments to choose from. The icing on this fly-fishing cake? Wild Water has a lifetime rod warranty and offers a low cost tip-only replacement service on every starter package.
WILD WATER FLY FISHING STARTER PACKAGE
WildWaterFlyFishing.com
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SOUTH PARK
COME FOR THE TROPHY TROUT This summer Denver Water is draining the Antero Reservoir. That’s a very good thing. The long overdue overhaul to the 102-year-old dam will ensure the safety, and long-term survival, of this prime fishing spot throughout the rest of this century and beyond. With repairs scheduled to be completed by spring of 2016, it will be ready to catch the upcoming winter’s snowmelt. Depending upon the snowfall, it will be refilled to peak levels within one to four years. And with the bottom vegetation expected to come back strong, state biologists are expecting an even higher percentage of healthy trout, and a much lower percentage of suckers (Hallelujah)! But how does that help you now? That’s a valid question that anglers across Park County and the State are asking. Well, first, the state is busily harvesting all of those meaty trout that usually populate Antero, and spreading them across numerous waterways in the region (notably 11 Mile and Spinney Reservoirs). So the chances of hooking a fat boy in unknown waters are increasing. Second, and more importantly, this offers you the opportunity to explore the miles of certified Gold Medal Waters that are spread across the Park County landscape. What are Gold Medal Waters? Only the best fishing in the state. They are defined as being able to produce sixty pounds of trout per acre, and at least twelve 14-inch-or-larger trout per acre, according to the Colorado Wildlife Commission. Of the 322 miles of streams and lakes that have earned this honor, over 50 of them are located within Park County. These are the waters
of the elusive trophy trout that all anglers stalk—and only you know where to look for them. The best part is that by leaving the sprawl of the Front Range, and heading into the mountains, you get to leave behind the streams chock full of fellow anglers. Solitude awaits. “There are dozens of other fishing options in the area that receive less pressure than Antero Reservoir,” says Gary Nichols, who manages recreation development for Park County. “While the closure of Antero is significant, many other quality waters remain relatively undiscovered.” Want some inside info? Here are a couple of our favorite spots where you can hook up with big browns and radiant rainbows. The Charlie Meyers State Wildlife Area is known locally as the “Dream Stream.” It is a stretch of the Middle Fork of the South Platte River that is located below Spinney Reservoir. Loaded with large browns, rainbows, and cutbows this catch and release Gold Medal stream is sure to amaze. If you are looking for an unforgettable day on the waters with a guide, head to private Boxwood Gulch and Long Meadow, just west of Shawnee on US 285. When you fish the North Fork of the South Platte River here, you will regularly be landing honking trout and marveling at the natural beauty surrounding you. For help in finding other hidden gems in Park County, head to the Denver Water website (denverwater.org/Recreation) and click on Antero Reservoir. The interactive map highlights dozens of other fishing holes in Park County.
SouthParkTrout.com
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
1. JACKET RAB FLASHPOINT $325 WHY IT WON: This 6.3-ounce, three-layer shell packs down tiny, it’s crazy light and it breathes better than any
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other jacket we tested. That versatility made it our musthave hard shell. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Hikes and alpine climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park. Climbs in the Flatirons. Mountain bike rides around Boulder. Multi-day excursions in the San Juans. Guide training in Canada. rab.equipment/us 2. MOUNTAIN BIKE GIANT REIGN ADVANCED 27.5 1, $4,750 WHY IT WON: We are seeing the most innovation in new enduro bikes and this 27.5-inch-wheeled beast combines a handmade composite frame designed specifically for that wheel size and 6.3 inches of Giant's Maestro suspension. That all added up for a ride that could easily handle the downhill park, but climbs like a champ. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Vail downhill and cross-country trails. Eagle trail system. The nasty Apex trail in Golden. giant-bicycles.com
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4. SUP HALA ATCHA $1,349 WHY IT WON: In a word, versatility: The stable design of this inflatable board meant it could handle everything from playing with the kids, to running some whitewater, to patrolling flatwater. WHERE WE TOOK IT: The Yampa. Boulder Reservoir. Ruby-Horsethief. halagear.com
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1 5. SLEEPING PAD KLYMIT INSULATED STATIC V LUXE $100 WHY IT WON: This light, easyto-pack pad is super warm and comfy, and gave us enough room—it's a plush 30 inches wide—to toss and turn. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Climbing trips to Indian Creek. Bike trips to Fruita. A four-night winter camping/snowshoeing romp in the Collegiate Peaks klymit.com
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HOW DO YOU JUDGE THE BEST GEAR OF SUMMER? FOR US IT WAS SIMPLE: POLL THE STABLE OF HIKERS, SCRAMBLERS, CLIMBERS, PADDLERS, BIKERS, RUNNERS AND GENERAL FREAKS WHO CONTRIBUTE TO ELEVATION OUTDOORS. ASK THEM WHAT WAS THE BEST GEAR YOU USED OVER THE PAST YEAR? WHAT GEAR CAN’T YOU LIVE WITHOUT? WHAT GEAR CHANGED YOUR LIFE? HERE ARE THE WINNERS:
3. SUNGLASSES OPTIC NERVE V12 $99 WHY IT WON: It's simple: sunglasses that stay on your face are priceless. These do just that. Plus, the wide lenses provide solid peripheral views, and the hydrophobic coating sheds water. WHERE WE TOOK IT: All over Colorado. Bermuda. Panama. The office. opticnerve.com
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6. GPS GARMIN OREGON 600 SERIES $270 WHY IT WON: The big hikers among us found Garmin's Oregon 600 series handheld GPS units to be invaluable up in the high wilderness of Colorado's mountains, especially when we got off the trail. The units were intuitive to use and stood up to some serious abuse when we were scrambling little-known thirteeners. When paired with Garmin's optional Colorado topo maps, it's a worthy investment for those who take backcountry navigation seriously. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Gore Range. Elk Range. Backcountry Huts. garmin.com
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7. TENT BIG AGNES FLY CREEK UL 1 $320 WHY IT WON: Big Agnes updated its already ridiculously light Fly Creek UL series tents this year to be even lighter. The UL1 weighs in at a scant one pound, 11 ounces. Opt just to use the fly and it's just over a pound. It also kept out the elements, including a middleof-the-night, high-mountain groppel and thunder storm. This one-person tent was our go-to shelter when we wanted to get some serious alone time. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Backpacking in the Gore Range, the Ten Mile range and the Utah desert. bigagnes.com
8. TRAIL RUNNER PEARL IZUMI EM TRAIL N2 $120 WHY IT WON: The basic job of a trail runner is to 1) not slip on nasty terrain 2) provide the support to keep you from getting inured and let you enjoy the ride when you are out there. Of all the shoes the runners among us tested, these 10-ounce slippers felt the most natural on our feet. Plus, the 4 millimeters of drop felt like the sweet spot between comfort and support. And all those details meant even more to our ultrarunning editors, who put more miles on them than we thought possible. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Boulder trails. Salida tails. Asheville, North Carolina. pearlizumi.com 9. BACKPACK OSPREY ATMOS AG 65 $260 WHY IT WON: Simply put, this is the most innovative pack design we have seen in years. Osprey combined ventilation with support in a cush, mesh back panel that contours to the body. That system works with shoulder and hip straps that tighten up together, making for a perfect, easy fit. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Extended backpacking trips to Cedar Mesa, Utah, canyons with the family and peak-bagging and fly-fishing missions in Rocky Mountain National Park. ospreypacks.com
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WHERE WILL YOU GO IN YOUR RENEGADES? Since 1997, millions of adventurers have worn LOWA Renegades to explore our big beautiful world. Many of these folks became Renegade fans along the way and shared their photos and stories with us. We’ve made a few tweaks over the years to the Renegade, but its acclaimed out-of-the-box comfort, über-high quality nubuck leather, premium components like GORE-TEX® durably waterproof and breathable linings and VIBRAM® outsoles, performance details like our injected PU (polyurethane) MONOWRAP® midsole with full length stabilizer — not to mention 100% European handcrafted construction — have endured, making the Renegade the world’s best loved hiking boot. The Renegade family of boots has styles for men and women in both mid- and low-cut heights, comes in over 50 color-ways, nter has GORE-TEX® product and leather-lined options, and is available in medium, wide and narrow widths andextended sizes. o Ce m e ur D Visit www.lowaboots.com to find the right Renegade for you. at o e at
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Available for men & women. Men‘s espresso/rust shown here.
GORE-TEX®, GTX®, GORE®, and GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY® and design are registered trademarks of W.L. Gore & Associates Inc. VIBRAM®, the Octagon Logo, and the Yellow Octagon Logo and the color Canary Yellow are registered trademarks of Vibram S.p.A. ©2015 LOWA Boots, LLC.
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11. BIKE HELMET SPECIALIZED AMBUSH $180 WHY IT WON: This full-coverage allmountain helmet weighs less than many cross-country lids on the market (and it offers up more than enough ventilation). The fit was easy to dial in thanks to the Mindset 360 system which cradled our heads when we battened it down— plus, it helps alleviate rotational impact forces in the case of a crash. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Nederland trails. JeffCo trails. New Zealand. specialized.com
13. RAFT AIRE SABERTOOTH $2,699 WHY IT WON: Easy to handle and very forgiving when you make a mistake, this inflatable two-person cataraft proved ideal for teaching kids how to run whitewater. But, hey, it was also fun to run rapids full force in it with an adult friend, too. And, even though it's built for rapids, it worked well for lazy beer floats and fly fishing excursions. WHERE WE TOOK IT: The Yampa. Ruby -Horsethief. Boulder Reservoir. aire.com
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12. DUFFEL EDDIE BAUER MAXIMUS $149–$99 WHY IT WON: Of all the amazing gear out there that we could give an award to... a duffel bag? Hell yes. That's because of all the gear we own, this duffel is the thing we use the most.. No matter the sport (skiing, biking, hiking, surf trip in Baja, kids' overnight sleepover, business trip to San Diego), we stuff them full of all the other gear we need. And these bags (that come in 90L, 70L and 45L versions) are truly the best duffels that we own: The coated polyester endures water and abuse and they pack down flat and small. WHERE WE TOOK IT: All over Colorado and the U.S. Big trip to Sweden. eddiebauer.com
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10. MIDLAYER MAMMUT NIVA $189 WHY IT WON: It should not be legal for fleece to feel this luxurious, and yet that's precisely the case with the liner on this indispensable zip hoodie. It won our female testers over as the ideal underlayer in colder temperatures, but we also found it to be the perfect jacket by itself in spring and early summer (especially with the cool, damp spring we had this season in the Front Range). WHERE WE TOOK IT: Telluride ski area and backcountry. Trail running, dog walking and mountain biking on Boulder County Open Space trails. Mammoth mountain. California. Travel all over the country. It was our go-to mid-layer all winter long when we went resort skiing. mammut.ch
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©2015 LIFE TIME FITNESS, INC. All rights reserved. EVMG50857
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14. RUNNING SHORT SMARTWOOL PHD RUN SHORT $75 WHY IT WON: You don't notice the stuff you wear running... until it goes wrong. But the soft merino wool liner on these comfy running shorts proved very effective for moisture management (or as our trail running contributing editor put it: "they eliminate schwetty balls" and, hey, what more can you ask for from a running short). Plus, that merino didn't abrade against sensitive skin and, as much as we tried, these shorts never stunk. WHERE WE TOOK IT: All over the trails in Boulder and JeffCo. A trip to Cambria on California’s Central Coast. smartwool.com 15. BIKE SHORTS ASSOS T.RALLY S7 $449 WHY IT WON: Introduce your powerful gams to the first bib short tailor-made for mountain bikers. This masterpiece features a floating chamois design that made them oh-so comfy, an assortment of durable but compressive fabrics that held up to slashings from branches grown into the trail and built-in pads on the hips in case of crashes. Sure, they may be pricey, but they will last years. WHERE WE TOOK IT: All over tarnation: Switzerland, Arizona, New Mexico, Ethiopia, New Zealand. assos.com
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16. FLY ROD TENKARA USA SATO KIT $259 WHY IT WON: Tenkara makes fly fishing a new experience for anyone who tries it. The cast is simple to learn (and some longtime fly anglers on staff even caught fish left-handed) and the technique of using one fly that can be fished as a dry, emerger or streamer is simply deadly. The telescoping rod assembles in seconds (meaning you can even quick fish creeks on hikes while waiting for friends to catch up) and is a no-brainer to toss in your pack for high mountain lake rambles. Best of all, this package gives you all you need (rod, line, flies) to get started. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Boulder Creek. Eldorado State Park. Utah's Uintas. tenkarausa.com 17. MOUNTAINEERING BOOT SALOMON S-LAB X ALP CARBON GTX $300 WHY IT WON: All too often you have to walk in to approach big alpine climbs in your hiking boots and then switch into beefier mountaineering boots that you have hauled in your pack. These works of art turn that paradigm on its head. Silly light at 17.6 ounces, they boast enough backbone to edge and smear low-level rock and will hold a crampon (thought they won't work for technical ice). But they are shockingly
Day Care, Colorado Style Free Fishing Weekend
June 6 & 7
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42 State Parks cpw.state.co.us
Cast a fly or float a bobber. Colorado State Parks offer fishing for many different levels of anglers. Take a friend or introduce the next generation by teaching a child to fish. If you’re not sure where to start, we can help with lots of online resources.
19. BELAY DEVICE C.A.M.P. USA MATIK $200 WHY IT WON: Smart, safe, and functional, this baby builds upon the current crop of assisted/auto-locking belay devices and adds in some additional safety features, including a "panic stop." If the user panics and fully opens the release lever in the event of a fall, the Matik, unlike other models,
20. BOOTS LA SPORTIVA CORE HIGH GTX $200 WHY IT WON: This sturdy-but-light (15.6 ounces per shoe) hiker features Gore’s new Surround technology, meaning that it stays waterproof and actually breathes under your foot as well as all around the shoe. That made it one versatile boot for all conditions. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Boulder trails in a wet spring. Cedar Mesa, Utah. sportiva.com 21. BASELAYER WESTCOMB NOVA $100 WHY IT WON: A baselayer is a baselayer, right? Wrong. This do-it-all top uses Polartec's new PowerWool, a proprietary combination of wool and plated synthetic fibers that create the feeling of two layers in one. The beauty of it is that you can go for an after-work run or ride, then catch the end of happy hour and it doesn't look out of place. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Evening trail runs and mountain bike rides in Breckenridge. westcomb.com
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18. CAMS BLACK DIAMOND CAMLAOT X4 OFFSET $75 WHY IT WON: These flexible-stem, four-lobe cams have replaced the smallto medium-sized units on our climbing contributing editor's rack. That supple, skinny design means you can fit these cams into some very odd-shaped placements. We truly tested them, too, having recently placed the .4-.5 size and taking a hard, short fall (yep, it held). WHERE WE TOOK IT: Long climbs in Eldorado Canyon, including classics like The Diving Board (5.11a). We also used them establishing some new routes out east in Vermont. blackdiamondequipment.com
will go into lock mode and catch the rope and the climber. It ain't cheap, but it's Italian-made and a great tool for the advanced climber or guide. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Flatirons. Eldorado Canyon. Boulder Canyon. camp-usa.com
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Jeff Austin
HEAR THIS
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STILL BRINGING THE FUNK COLORADO GRASSROOTS FAVORITE THE MOTET TAKES ITS RAUCOUS DANCE PARTY TO RED ROCKS THIS MONTH. WILL YOU BE THERE? by JEDD FERRIS “It’s pretty amazing that a band like us is coheadlining Red Rocks,” says Dave Watts, founder and drummer of the Motet. “I still can’t wrap my head around that. It’s really a reflection of the Colorado music community.” Watts is obviously stoked for the big gig—a bill that will be shared with fellow funk explorers Lettuce—at the venerable amphitheater on June 5. For one of Colorado’s favorite grassroots bands, it will be a celebratory culmination of more than a decade and a half of hard work, as well as an indication that The Motet is making its most exciting music to date, due to finally having a cohesive unit with a singular vision. Watts formed his first incarnation of the Motet in Boulder back in 1998, at first acting as a musical director of a rotating line-up. Trained in Boston at the renowned Berklee College of Music, the drummer often took the sound in varied directions, incorporating elements of jazz, Afrobeat and EDM. The music of Parliament Funkadelic played a big part in pushing the band’s sound in a dedicated direction toward late ‘70s funk and dance music. Through the years, the group has remained a steady fixture in its home state and the broader national jam scene. Studio output has also been prolific with the band releasing six albums since 2001. In total, the Motet has featured more than a dozen members, including some of Colorado’s most photo by BRIAN SPADY
dynamic players, like Dominic Lalli of Big Gigantic. Watts has also stayed busy in some side projects, including work with the String Cheese Incident’s Kyle Hollingsworth. “When I got out here I was able to strike up relationships with a number of great musicians,” says Watts of moving to Boulder in the mid ‘90s. “People here just want to jam and make music.” Eventually, Watts realized for the Motet to move forward he needed to assemble a band with a permanent roster. Five years ago, he cemented the group with singer Jans Ingber, keyboardist Joey Porter, bassist Garrett Sayers and guitarist Ryan Jalbert. Brass blasts also come from horn duo Gabriel Mervine on trumpet and Matt Pitts on sax Collectively the band members decided to refine the Motet sound and they have settled on a brand of high-minded funk with a sturdy, soulful backbone that’s just right for throwing epic dance parties but also leaves room for improvisational flourishes. It’s highlighted on the band’s latest album, "The Motet"—a full-throttle set of rump shakers that’s self-titled as a statement of solidarity for the equal voices in the group. “When you have complete control over everything for a while it’s tough to let some of that power go,” Watts admitted. “But all the players are invested in the band, and we’re creating something now that none of us could have done individually. It’s really made a big difference.” Tightening the sonic scope came from the required research for the band’s famed Halloween shows. Every year around the costumed party holiday, the band treats the Front Range to a run a shows that cover the catalog of notable predecessors. Always dressed to match the theme, past shows have tackled the material of Michael Jackson, Madonna, Talking Heads, Jamiroquai and the Grateful Dead. “We saw how powerful and effective those songs were live, and it got everybody on the same page,” he says. “It helped our abilities to write.” This summer, the band will maintain its
MOTET TOWN: FORMED IN BOULDER, THE ELCELCTIC JAMMERS HAVE TAKEN ON A COLLECTIVE VOICE ON THEIR LATEST ALBUM.
relentless road ethic. While Red Rocks is the marquee, the group will be traveling across the country, stopping at a range of high-profile festivals (but the only other Colorado date currently scheduled is a Deaf Camp Benefit in Snowmass on July 18). On stage the band members are constantly trying to strike a balance between making people move and challenging their own musical abilities. “We want to have a dance party and have people get into the physical side of our music, but we also want to challenge ourselves with our playing,” Watts says. “There are plenty of moments for us to stretch and push the envelope.” THE DOWNLOADS: ESSENTIAL MOTET 123 | This hard-hitting old-school-style funk number is a standout on the band’s latest self-titled album, "The Motet." NEMESIS | A space-funk groove melds
with atmospheric ahead-of-the-curve EDM on this track from 2009’s "Dig Deep." AFRO DISCO BEAT | This pulsing afrobeat groove eventually accelerates into a full-on techno blitz on this instrumental from the band's experimental 2006 album "Instrumental Dissent." FIRE ON THE MOUNTAIN | This dancefriendly take on a Grateful Dead classic from the band’s Funk is Dead set on Jam Cruise in 2013 is a crowd favorite.
Available at livedownloads.com.
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THE DEATH MARCH
IS A FISHING MISSION INTO THE HIGH WILD LAKES OF ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK WORTH CRUSHING YOUR BEST FRIEND? WELL, SURE, OF COURSE IT IS. By KEVIN LUBY
“Don’t worry dude, there’s a A&W right outside the park,” I reassure Eric calmly as he writhes in the passenger seat. “You just need quick calories: some soft serve and a Coke will do the trick.” As we twist through the alpine tundra surrounding Trail Ridge Road in Rocky Mountain National Park, the four-cylinders of my white Chrysler (a rental while my truck was in the shop) gasp as I pressure the accelerator at 11,000 feet, hugging every corner of the descent. Eric needs get to lower elevation. Throughout our history, I’d seen him crush his ankle in his ski boot with little more than a wince and lawn dart off his mountain bike into scree with nary a yelp. But this little fishing mission turned fishing boondoggle had clearly put him in a very dark place. Looking back, we were woefully underprepared when we set out that morning for one of the park’s remote bodies of water with only a few hundred calories of granola bars and a couple Nalgenes between us. I had almost no beta on Arrowhead Lake except for a trailhead name, Milner Pass and the useless map they give you at the park entrance. Lured by whispers of gorgeous cutthroat and solitude in the rugged drainage below 12,880-foot Mt. Ida, I must have overlooked the 12-ish mile, above-treeline hike and 4,000 feet of elevation gain when I coerced Eric into joining me on a “day trip” in the park. But dude, the fish look huge! photo by KEVIN LUBY
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he mid-August day started innocuous enough, an early start out of Boulder, fresh java and breakfast sammies followed by a brisk pace on the well-established trail out of the parking lot. We broke treeline and began a long, mellow, ascending contour toward Mt. Ida through high-alpine meadows filled with elk munching on grass. Near the summit, the trail grew faint and in an effort to save time, we broke off down the peak’s north ridge and descended a steep, loose couloir toward the azure waters of Inkwell Lake. At the bottom of the drainage, we found a maze of house-sized boulders and technical moraines. The area’s long glacial history created a tedious and almost Martian landscape of granite cliffs, icy lakes and rocky debris. Hiking turned to scrambling and our progress slowed as we crawled over the rugged, yet beautiful, terrain.
“Eric’s a tough bastard, but after our food ran out, he began to unwind pretty quickly.” Around lunch, we caught our first glimpse of Arrowhead still several hundred feet below us down a low-angle granite slab. Despite sore muscles, a rapidly depleting granola bar supply and a longerthan-expected hike in, both Eric and I were fired up at the lake’s fishy prospects. The green waters of the wide, shallow southern end of the lake faded into depths of rich cobalt, terminating in a point and a waterfall down to the next bench of alpine lakes in the drainage. Given the shape of the lake, its name seemed all too appropriate. Our eyes scanned the water greedily as we rigged our fly rods. High-mountain cutthroat fishing isn’t rocket science. To fatten up for long winters, fish feed
BRAH TRIP SHANGRI-LA: ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK'S GORGE LAKE DRAINAGE IS BEAUTIFULLY REMOTE. JUST PACK MORE THAN A GRANOLA BAR FOR THE HIKE HERE.
opportunistically through the brief summer months. They smash anything that looks plump and buggy both above and below the water’s surface. It’s the dry-fly fishing though, that pulls me to alpine lakes. For an unsubtle, brute of an angler like myself, sight casting bushy stimulators, hoppers and parachutes at cruising fish is a rite of late summer. August’s alpine-lake season can redeem the river skunkings and slow days of June and July with countless fish on the dry. Of course, when the wind blows just right or the moon is in the seventh house or there’s some other witchcraft afoot, the fishing can suck. And it’s this later, much rarer phenomenon that awaited us on the banks of Arrowhead. Things started out on a positive note. I missed a nice cuttie on my first cast while monkeying around with excess line tangled around my foot. But then, nothing. We both haplessly trolled the banks, working the eastern flank of the lake looking for cruisers. Eventually I found a pod of fish swirling around the lake’s inlet. I casted everything I had at them, ants, Adams, gnats, midges. In the gin clear waters, fish spooked at even the faintest outline of 6X tippet, a strange reaction considering the relative lack of pressure on Arrowhead Lake. As a last ditch effort, I tied on the ugliest foam beetle pattern in my box and slapped it with an audible thwap in the slow ripple sliding out of the inlet creek. Suddenly, the lake surface erupted as a missile of a fish inhaled my fly. After a quick fight, I had my first glorious Arrowhead Lake cutthroat to hand. Bloodred through the belly and a deep forest green on its back, the fish, in full spawning colors, was stunning, and easily the prettiest greenback I’d ever caught. Just as things started looking bleak, I found what I’d been
THE ROAD
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looking for here in the deep heart of Rocky Mountain National Park. Then, I promptly returned to not catching a goddamn thing.
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ric had yet to land a fish, but as the shadows around the lake lengthened, reality started setting in: We had a long walk ahead of us. While I’d done some rough Google mapping on the route into Arrowhead Lake, I hadn’t given much thought to our exit, figuring we’d just freestyle it depending on how the hike in went, which, if you haven’t followed along, hovered somewhere in the neighborhood of poorly. Retracing our route was out of the question. I whipped out the crappy map and we decided on a path around the massive ridge above Arrowhead. Once on the other side, we’d find the best place to regain the Continental Divide then return to the trail. It looked easy enough without contour lines to correct our errors in judgement. After some light bushwacking and talus skipping, we circled the ridge only to walk straight into one of the most jaw-dropping and soul-sucking views in the park. An expansive landscape of willowy tundra, mossy marshes and steep peaks separated us from our car. We could do little but pick a point on the horizon and start the wet, twiggy death march. Eric’s a tough bastard, but after our food ran out, he began to unwind pretty quickly. Muscle cramps, low blood sugar and altitude began to take their toll. The quick pace with which we’d left the parking lot several hours before had deteriorated into a half-hearted saunter. Eventually his soreness and cramping forced us to make the traverse in methodical 40-pace chunks with several minutes of rest in between each interval. Had Eric caught any fish at Arrowhead, it would have been the fishing trip from hell. As it were, however, you could safely remove the “fishing” part. There in that quiet, picturesque drainage in Rocky Mountain National Park, the struggle was real. After nearly ten hours of hiking, bushwhacking, boulder hopping and most importantly, not catching, the wheels had fully come off. Slowly though, we reached the Divide just as the sun began to dip toward the distant Never Summer Mountains. Despite the pain of the last few hours, the warm glow of that fading evening light replaced our feelings of misery with awe, our exhaustion with strength, if only for a brief moment. Queue cliche mountain epiphany. End scene. Stumbling the last downhill miles to our car, drunk on complete physical emptiness, we waxed about the epic we’d just undertaken. Highlights like the herds of elk, the techy downclimbing to Arrowhead lake, the sunset, the solitude and, of course, that one exquisite cutthroat steered the conversation. As Eric sank into an incoherent stupor while riding shotgun in the Chrysler, I realized how the extreme physical discomfort of the day seemed to intensify the sensual perception of those memorable parts. It only took an ice cream cone and a couple Advil to to coax Eric to the same conclusion. A former editor at Skiing magazine, Kevin Luby is a moonlight freelancer and marketing stooge at SCARPA. His interests include steep couloirs, trout on the dry and patio beers. photo by ERIC DIETER
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GRIP AND GRIMACE: WAS THIS ONE GLORY SHOT WORTH A NEAR-DEATH EXPERIENCE? LUBY SEEMED TO THINK SO. JUST DON'T ASK THE GUY WHO DIDN'T CATCH ANYTHING. J U N E 2 015 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M
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ELWAYVILLE
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THE D-BAG DIARIES OH, THE JOYS AND PERILS OF ENJOYING SUMMER IN COLORADO by PETER KRAY Summertime is critter time, and there is currently a collection of birds, bunnies, lizards and snakes making a season of it in my—I mean our— backyard. I used to be creeped out by the snakes. But now they fascinate me. I especially like how they keep the place clear of mice and gophers. The only local fauna that isn’t welcome are the tomato-thieving ground squirrels, giant black centipedes (one of whom bit my toe a few summers back, which stung like brimstone) and skunks. Skunks are the worst of all. Anyone who has ever personally been skunked knows that rectal mist doesn’t smell anything like dank weed or spoiled German beer. It’s more like a diamond-pure corrosive chemical that atomizes in the middle of your brain. Two doggies of ours got an up-close dose to the face once, and I thought they would suffocate in the cloud. Immediately, the redhaired girl and I got splitting headaches and couldn’t sleep for days. To get the smell out, we tried to bathe the boys with store-bought skunk soap, then Pert shampoo, then can after can of tomato paste which resulted in them running around the yard like furry cannelloni, all to no avail. Finally, a friend suggested douche, and the redhaired girl went to Walgreens early on a Saturday morning to buy two cases of Massengill. She thought she would escape without undue notice, but four “cute boys” got in line right behind her, eyeballing her purchase as her neck turned as red as her hair. It did get the smell out of the dogs, but it was another month before she would go back to that store. D-BAGS Speaking of douchebags, is there something about
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summer that makes them so much more noticeable? Does the sunburned, drunken jackass only emerge after winter, when it’s easier to wear wife-beaters to show off tribal arm tattoos (“And what tribe are you in, Chad?”), and high five “BROS!” while spilling beer on you and your friends at a Red Rocks show? My dad had a saying about not caring what anyone else was into, as long as they took the time to do it well. But I don’t think being stupid is something anyone would consider doing “well.” And I honestly believe true douchebaggery is a product of stupidity first and foremost. I mean, what thinking person would wear Vibram FiveFingers as casual wear? Leave their dog in the car with rolled up windows? Get their cat high? Deny climate change? Crowd bicyclists on the shoulder of the road? Dress like a lumberjack in skintight jeans when it’s 80 degrees outside? Honk in standstill I-70 traffic? Leave shitty tips? Crank their stereo at the campground? Or insist on cataloging their dietary restrictions during every meal? To be more succinct, my working definition of douchebag is anyone who thinks they are the center of the world. Like the kind of people who shoot elephants, because they will be so much more interesting once they have some more intelligent, more iconic animal’s head mounted on their wall. DENVER To misquote Ernest Hemingway, dodging douchebags is key to a successful summer. The first way to do that is to hike into the backcountry—long and far. The second is to go full shut-in, soaking up Vitamin D on your patio or in your backyard, and only venturing out for groceries and alcohol. The third is to immerse yourself in the anonymity of everyman, and go get out front and center of the madding crowd. Nothing eliminates the sour smell of D-bags more than the immediate connectivity of finding out who your neighbors really are, and learning more about your hometown, too. So if you want to up your level of interactivity and feel more like a local in
Elwayville this summer, here are three low budget options to consider. Have a Picnic: Denver’s outdoor urban recreation system really is first class—including Cheesman, City, Cranmer, Congress and Washington parks in particular—with green fields, a couple geese-filled lakes and well-kept jogging trails local developers would pay billions to be building multi-level apartments on right now. So pack some sandwiches and lots of cold drinks, bring a Frisbee for the dog, and go lay in that grass and daydream about how lucky you are. Rock Broadway: Colfax gets all the credit for being the most eclectic, freaky thoroughfare in Denver, and Federal has the best Mexican food, but for me, Broadway offers the most ‘all-world’ feel. It’s the one street that lets you tour the Capitol, hit the library, take an art museum detour, stop in several thrift, antique and used bookstores, visit unique dispensaries, catch an independent movie at the Mayan, water up at some classic—and sometimes scary—dive bar, then rock the night fantastic at Herman’s Hideaway before you take the bus (or Uber) home. Do Something for Someone Else: I say this every summer, mostly because I mean it. But also because giving a homeless person a cup of coffee or a couple bucks, donating blood, adopting a stray, or planting a tree somewhere you can drive by and see how much it’s grown every year also makes you feel better about yourself. You need to be nice to yourself. Elevation Outdoors editor-at-large Peter Kray is the author of The God of Skiing. The book has been called “the greatest ski novel of all time.” Buy it here: bit.ly/godofskiing llustration by KEVIN HOWDESHELl / kevincredible.com
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