Elevation Outdoors June 2017 by Summit Publishing

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CLIMBERS RAPPEL TO FISH

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CONTENTS JUNE 2017

YOU CAN'T HIDE PUBLIC LANDS IN UTAH ARE UNDER SIEGE. IS THERE ANY HOPE WHEN IT COMES TO SAVING THE RED ROCK REGION'S NATIONAL MONUMENTS (PAGE 52)? photo by Dylan Brown

DEPARTMENTS

7 EDITOR’S LETTER

The pleasure of a book in the wilderness

8 QUICK HITS

How to follow the eclipse, go big time in Boise, train for Leadville and more...

15 FLASHPOINT

Will climate change and its resulting megafires wipe out Western forests?

19 HOT SPOT

Playtime and classic cars at Gateway.

21 THE TRAIL

Download the ViewRanger app and follow us up the Mount of the Holy Cross.

23 NUMEROLOGY

Dig into facts and figures on trails.

FEATURES

27 ONE-DAY EPICS

These big scrambles to remote peaks lie right along the easy reaches of I-70.

31 RAP TO FISH

Can a climbing angler resist water that can only be reached by rope?

33 WEST VIRGINIA WHITEWATER

We head east in search of massive flows.

35 OUTDOOR COLLEGES

Our readers voted to determine the schools with the best outdoor programs.

47 GEAR FOR THE TRAIL

We present our favorite shoes to take you into the wild. Plus, Adam Chase on how to dress like a Cross-sexual.

25 STRAIGHT TALK

Ian Anderson tells how “The Time Travellers” took on the Grand Canyon.

51 HEAR THIS

The Music District will change the industry.

52 THE ROAD

How one dedicated crew pulled off the first SUP trip down Utah's Escalante River.

54 ELWAYVILLE

Colorado's got a love affair with waves.

Want more? Catch up on past issues, your favorite bloggers and daily online content at ElevationOutdoors.com ON TH E COV ER: ON TH E COVER: AUTHOR M ORGA N TILTON PA D D LES ON TH E FIRST SU P EXPED ITION DOWN TH E 10 0-MILE LEN G TH OF UTA H ’S ESC A LA N TE R IVER IN A N ATION A L MON U MEN T U N D ER ATTAC K (SEE PAG E 52). PH OTO BY: DYLA N B ROWN / D H BROW NPH OTOGR A PH Y.C OM

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CONTRIBUTORS

ElevationOutdoors.com

WHAT'S THE BEST SOLO TIME YOU EVER SPENT IN THE WILD?

EDITORIAL ED ITOR -IN -CH IEF

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

doug@elevationoutdoors.com MAN AG IN G ED ITOR

CAMERON MARTINDELL

cameron@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR ED ITOR

CHRIS KASSAR

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LILY KRASS

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CLIMB. C O LO R A D O.

N O W.

AARON BIBLE, ADAM CHASE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, SONYA LOONEY, JAYME MOYE, TRACY ROSS, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN ED ITOR -AT-LARG E

PETER KRAY

C ON TRIBUTIN G WRITERS

PHILIP ARMOUR, JEFF BLUMENFELD, DANIEL GALHARDO, PATTY MALESH, MELLISSA MCGIBBON, RUSS RIZZO, MORGAN TILTON, PAUL TOLMÉ ART + PRODUCTION ART D IREC TOR

MEGAN JORDAN

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There’s never been a better time to take the challenge and summit the Colorado 14ers. Pick your peak . . . we’ve mapped all 53. Our durable, waterproof, and lightweight map guides are essential gear for your climb.

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SUMMIT

PUBLISHING

06. 17

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

I free-soloed a technical route on Chair Peak in the Cascades—it was scary as hell and I never felt more alive.

ELIZABETH O'CONNELL

I’m getting a lot more solo time in the outdoors these days with my dog, Winston. There’s something about nature’s silence and girl-and-her-dog bonding that refreshes my soul.

CHRIS KASSAR

When I was just 21 and first moved west, I spent five days in the Maze district of Canyonlands National Park on my firstever solo backpack trip.

CAMERON MARTINDELL

Living in Australia, I worked four 10-hour days and I would take off on Fridays to head for the hills, where I solo backpacked the Blue Mountains and the Coast Track of the Royal National Park.

DANIEL GALHARDO

One summer evening, my dog Shiso and I walked in the woods foraging for boletes. After it got dark, we just sat on a streamside boulder listening to the sounds of the night.

ADAM CHASE

I did a snow ultrarunning race in the Northwest Territories. It was the definition of solitude: white, quiet (except for the squeak of snow), no smells, just thoughts and motion.

PAUL TOLME

Scrambling through the woodlands of New Hampshire behind my parents' home as a child. I learned that the woods are places of adventure and freedom.

TRACY ROSS

An attempted overnight in WrangellSt. Elias National Park, Alaska, in my early 20s. The feeling I had setting out was the best—when I turned back late at night afraid of grizzlies, it was alright.

READING IN THE WILD by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

ast Fourth of July, we decided we wanted to be a little lazy. But as the hot weekend approached, we also wanted to get out in the woods. Unfortunately, we did not reserve a campground spot anywhere (we would have had to have done it in March anyway) and we just didn't feel like dealing with the early take-off time and wrestling with the crowds required to secure a spot up in the backcountry at a wilderness lake—especially with kids in tow. But I did know of a peaceful meadow and wooded spot along a creek just about two miles down the tail in a nearby wilderness area, so I thought why don't we just chill out on a little backpack foray and set up camp there for the weekend? It was the perfect plan: My wife, two kids and I did some leisurely packing, watched some Friday night Netflix, slept in a bit the next morning and then hiked in to the meadow spot. From there, we simply enjoyed the pleasure of being in the woods. We set up a hammock. We cast tenkara flies into the creek. We made sandwiches and soup on the camp stove. The next morning, we even day-hiked to a lake. But most of all, we sat back and read books. I confess I am the ultimate biblio-nerd. My bedside is a pile of books in the process of being read (Bruce Springsteen's outstanding autobiography), on my to-read list (William Finnegan's Barbarian Days, Viet Thanh Nguyen's The Sympathizer) and read long ago but left within easy reach because they give me comfort (Italo Calvino's Invisible Cities, Bertrand Russell's The History of Western Philosophy). The only problem is that I find my book reading time crunched these days. Sure, blame it on technology: Reading sports scores or the latest Trump SUMMER IDYLL shenanigans on my iPhone is an easy comfort. Plus, THERE’S NO BETTER PLACE TO KICK BACK WITH reading is tough with eyeballs fried from workdays A BOOK THAN A QUIET spent scanning screens. I'm no Luddite—I actually WILDERNESS MEADOW. think this technology has made our lives hassle-free photo by Doug Schnitzspahn in many ways and certainly it has made it easier to work as a freelance writer and editor, but it has definitely cut into the time we spend enjoying books. Even before smart phones, my favorite place to read has always been the backcountry. There's a silence and change in our perception of the passing of time that makes it easier to immerse yourself in the printed page. In the 1990s, I spent years working for the U.S. Forest Service, building trails and fighting fires in Montana's Madison Valley. It was the greatest stretch of pleasurable binge reading in my life. In my sleeping bag or in camp, I devoured Russian novels (and somehow the dirt in Lëvin's fingernails when he tills the land felt more earned, the tragedy of Prince Myshkin more unfair). I read a manual on celestial navigation as I lay back tracing the stars. Hoping to climb the mountain, I dug into Jonathan Waterman's In the Shadow of Denali (and it still thrills me to have him write for this magazine). I flew along as Carlos Castenada transformed into a crow, and later I hiked alone watching birds. I love when I reach a place like our Fourth of July meadow where the phone no longer has service. My wife and kids feel the same way. We don't miss it. We find a spot in the grass or by a tree or in the hammock and turn the pages. On this trip, I read the biologist E.O. Wilson, who is, I think, one of the most important voices of our time. His words felt more urgent out here: “We are drowning in information,” he writes, “while starving for wisdom.”

QUICK HITS

06 .17

TOTALLY ECLIPSED The sun will go dark this summer in Wyoming on August 21. Here are the best places in the state to view the total eclipse, how to avoid the crowds, and why you must go. A TOTAL SOLAR ECLIPSE, WHEN THE

Moon comes between Earth and Sun to cast its shadow upon us, is one of the most spectacular phenomena you can witness. On August 21, 2017, the path of the total eclipse will pass right through the United States on a latitudinal course reaching from Oregon to South Carolina. While the eclipse will be visible in several Western states, Coloradans' best bet

to witness it lies in Wyoming, where they can also get in some quality outdoor adventure. The following guide will make it all easier. BEING THERE Don’t wait until the last minute to plan your trip. You’ll want to be close to your viewing site by the night of August 20, since the eclipse is expected to draw huge crowds that could clog, and even close roads. While lodgings in popular destinations such as Jackson Hole and Casper have been booked for months, smaller Wyoming towns (think Douglas or Dubois) and backcountry destinations are still open (try the Bridger National Forest northwest of Lander in the Wind River Range in the west, or Medicine Bow National Forest southeast of Casper in the east.) Anna Wilcox, Executive Director of the Casper Eclipse Festival, says there are still about 90 reservable campsites still available at places like Alcova Lake Campground, Beartrap North On Casper Mountain,

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Black Beach Campground and others. And at publication time, there were just under 100 rooms in town still available. Note that many campgrounds in the area do not take reservations and run on a strictly first come, first serve basis, which means you can snag a spot if you come extremely early. With a maximum stay of 10 days and no reservations, the campground at Grey Reef Reservoir (natrona.net/239/GrayReef-Reservoir) on the North Platte River 30 miles southwest of Casper is a prime spot to snag a site before people start arriving in hordes. You can find lodging destinations outside of the path, but still close enough that you can drive into the big event. Start checking in towns like Pinedale, which will not experince total darkness but is close enough that an early start will allow for time to get you into the path of totality. Find a map of the path and links to destinations at eclipse2017.org/2017/ states/WY.htm.

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THE PATH OF TOTALITY IT'S NOT THE LATEST X MEN FLICK, IT'S THE SWATH ACROSS THE U.S. WHERE VIEWERS WILL EXPERIENCE A TOTAL SOLAR ECLIPSE. photos by Randy McGuire (eclipse), NASA Goddard SVS / Ernie Wright (map)

VIEWING IT Listen to our local hero Dr. Douglas Duncan (see page 9) and be sure to use solar filters or solar-eclipse-rated glasses if you look at the sun (even expensive sunglasses are no good). For optimum safety, check out shades by four manufacturers who’ve certified that their eclipse glasses and handheld solar viewers meet the ISO 123122 international standard: Rainbow Symphony, American Paper Optics, Thousand Oaks Optical and TSE 17.” —Cameron Martindell FOR MORE WYOMING-SPECIFIC INFORMATION ON VIEWING THE AUGUST 21 ECLIPSE, CONSULT ECLIPSECASPER. COM, GREATAMERICANECLIPSE.COM, ECLIPSEWISE.COM AND TIMEANDDATE.COM.

BOOKS My Old Man and the Mountain Author Leif Whittaker grew up in a mountaineering family. His father, Jim, was the first American to summit Everest— in 1963—and Leif carries on the Whittaker tradition of working and playing in the mountains. But Dad played no part in that discovery. $25 | MOUNTAINEERSBOOKS.ORG

EAT THE TOUR There are beaucoup ways to enjoy the Tour de France this summer. Here’s the tastiest. WILL FRISCHKORN MIGHT NOT HOLD A

warm spot in his heart for collisions— as a professional cyclist, he raced in the Tour de France and took home a combativity award for a stage in 2008—but he does take great pleasure when his favorite things, bikes and food, mash-up every July. That’s when Tour cyclists race around European countries (mostly France). The month also kicks-off a spectacle of culinary savvy: The Cured de France. Frischkorn has shifted his profession from spinning wheels to plating epicurian delights. After retiring from cycling, Will and his wife Coral moved to bike-crazy Boulder and in 2011 opened Cured, a shop specializing in cheese, charcuterie and wine. For the 2012 Tour, the Frischkorns had an idea: Since the Tour passes through some of the most iconic culinary destinations in the world, why not craft a guide that helps people celebrate Tour stages with cheese and wine from regions along the stages? And why not stock Cured with those treats? Cured’s Tour guide has become the yellow jersey for foodie-minded Boulderites, and now the cheeses (and the wines if you live in Colorado) are available online. curedboulder.com —E.O. Staff

LOCAL HERO: ASTRONOMER DOUGLAS DUNCAN The director of the University of Colorado’s Fiske Planetarium decodes the coming total eclipse. ON AUGUST 21, THE BEST TOTAL ECLIPSE

in 38 years will cross the entire U.S., turning hordes of everyday folks into amature astrononmers, or at least skygazers (see “Totally Eclipsed,” page 8). “I-25 northbound is likely to be a parking lot,” warns astronomer Dr. Douglas Duncan, 66, director of the Fiske Planetarium at the University of Colorado, who’s been chasing total eclipses since 1970. Duncan has dedicated his career to educating the public on the wonders of the sky. He’s a science commentator on Colorado Public Radio, has appeared on the History Channel and BBC Horizon, leads educational trips to eclipses, and helps fellow astronomers better communicate with the public. And he can’t wait for August. “A total eclipse is like the end of the world. There is a black hole in the sky where the sun should be. Pink flames of solar prominences and long silver streamers of the corona stretch across the sky. Total eclipses are also important scientifically. They let us see parts of the sun’s atmosphere that are otherwise invisible,” Duncan says. A graduate of the California Institute of Technology and the

NO DOPE WHAT BETTER WAY TO ENJOY THE TOUR DE FRANCE THAN BY INDULGING IN FOOD FROM THE TOWNS IT ROLLS THROUGH? photo courtesy Cured

STARMAN

University of California, Santa Cruz, Duncan says Front Rangers who stay home can expect to see a 95 percent eclipse, meaning 5 percent of the sun will still shine through. “It’s the difference between listening to your favorite band on earbuds, versus the 12th row at a concert. Unless it’s a total eclipse, it will never get totally dark.” Even at 95 percent, however, eye protection is a must, and, failure to use appropriate filtration may result in permanent eye damage or blindness. That’s why Duncan is passionate about helping the entire country become equipped with safe $2 eclipsewatching glasses that are 1,000-times darker than sunglasses. Before the big day, he’s encouraging people to visit his eclipse-watch.com website to learn how to purchase them. Do it soon. During the 2012 eclipse, the Fiske Planetarium sold 20,000 pairs; McGuckin Hardware in Boulder sold 10,000 pairs. And get for ready things to get really weird. “In a total eclipse, people cry, scream, shout, and celebrate,” says Duncan. “It gets cold and animals do strange things. There’s a lot of astonishing profanity. During a previous eclipse, I was with a bunch of college students who practically lost their minds.” —Jeff Blumenfeld

DR. DOUGLAS DUNCAN IS READY FOR THE ECLIPSE TO BLOW HIS MIND—BUT HE DOESN'T WANT IT TO FRY YOUR EYES. photo courtesy Douglas Duncan

MINE! ALL MINE!

Locals in Colorado's St. Vrain Valley don't want gravel mining trucks clogging and polluting the most popular path to Rocky Mountain National Park.

OIL AND GAS USUALLY TAKE CENTER

stage when it comes to battles over mining in the West, but gravel has become the new enemy in Colorado's St. Vrain Valley. Martin Marietta Materials, a company with operations throughout the U.S. and Canada, is planning to mine for gravel between Lyons and Longmont. The proposed 10-year operation would cause massive increases in air pollution, noise pollution, light pollution and traffic (trucks and trains), according to the nonprofit Save Our St. Vrain Valley. Calling on Boulder County Commissioners, the local group is demanding that Martin Marietta Materials go through the proper

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permitting process—and it hopes to derail the proposed mines. “This company is not going to ruin my golden years,” says Richard Cargill, 75, a retired professor who has lived on Hygiene Road since 1995. “The air and noise pollution from this mine would be devastating.” In response, Cargill and his neighbor Amanda Dumenigo formed Save Our St. Vrain Valley to advocate for local concerns. “A lot of cyclists, runners, and riders recreate throughout the St Vrain Valley,” says Dumenigo. “The reason why property owners invest and live here, visitors flock here, and athletes train here is the quality of life.” Boulder County includes parts of Rocky Mountain National Park, which set an attendance record with 4.5 million visitors in 2016. And last year’s visitation number spiked an 8.68 percent increase over the previous annual record set in 2015, itself a 32 percent increase over 2014, and a 40 percent increase since 2012. The current permit allows for one truck every three minutes and three trains a day. Traffic to the park will be significantly impacted, as will the air quality and the pastoral views. Dumenigo worries that the experience of heading into the mountains will become vastly more industrial, potentially discouraging visitors. “We fought Cemex and won,” says Cargill about forcing the cement plant just east of Lyons to comply with the Clean Air Act. “We’re going to fight again for what’s right.” There's also worry about dangerous crystalline silica dust. “The St. Vrain Valley can be extremely windy, which makes it impossible to control fugitive dust events and airborne toxins from a mining operation,” says Dumenigo. “But this makes the area ideal for a wind farm. Perhaps Martin Marietta Materials can use their acreage for wind farming and simultaneously protect our historic valley and invest in a sustainable future?” —Philip Armour HARD ROCK THE UGLY IMPACTS OF GRAVEL MINING INCLUDE TRAFFIC AND POLLUTION. photo by James Morgan Scherrer

BOISE, IDAHO With a river and bike trails running right through town— and a bevy of craft establishments and local funk—Idaho’s capital city is worth a trip to, well, Idaho.

URBAN SPRAWL A LAZY FLOAT DOWN THE PAYETTE TAKES THE EDGE OF THOSE HOT BOISE SUMMERS. photo courtesy Boise CVB

SLEEP

entirely—out. After all, the culture here embraces floating the Payette River on a Wednesday, lunchtime rides on the 190 miles of singletrack that start right on the edge of town and a vibrant downtown with bars, cafes and eateries serving everything from coconut lattes to double IPAs.

Stay downtown-close at the Grove Hotel (grovehotelboise.com). Bonus: It’s linked with the home arena of the Idaho Steelheads ECHL minor league hockey team (hotel guests even have their own entrance to the ice). The contemporary and elegant hotel has 250 rooms in six different styles and an extensive spa and fitness facility on the fifth floor with lots of windows and expansive views (you'll find plenty of locals coming here to work out, too). The kids will love the Hampton Inn & Suites Boise-Downtown (hamptoninn3.hilton.com), with its fun wading pool and joined suites that make putting kids to bed easy when their parents still want to party.

EAT

PLAY

You simply can’t avoid menus with potatoes on them in Boise—not that it’s a problem. One restaurant that embraces the Idaho spud is Boise Fry Company (boisefrycompany. com). Choose your fry from a rotating menu consisting of over half a dozen different types of potatoes, a handful of different fry cuts, and several different housemade dipping sauces that make ketchup look like mud. The Basque Market (thebasquemarket.com) on Grove Street, right downtown, is just one of the Iberian eating establishments on Basque Block, Boise’s nod to one of the largest Pyrenees expat groups in the United States. The Market offers delicious traditional dishes such as paella and pintxos (Basque tapas) as well as classes and tastings.

If you simply want to wheel around town, rent cruisers from any Boise Green Bike (boise.greenbike. com) location and hit the greenbelt, which weaves along the Boise River and through a number of city parks (and right by the Zoo). Boise is one of the best mountain biking cities in the U.S., and the local Boise-Eagle trails won a gold-level Ride Center recognition from IMBA thanks to a well maintained network that has something for everyone. Hit Hulls Gulch for a variety of rides right off the pavement or test your skills at the Eagle Bike Park. Boise blazes come summer; beat the heat with tube float down the chilly Payette. Come evening, wind down with a show at the Egyptian Theater (egyptiantheatre.net). —C.M.

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ULTRA TOUGH How the three-day Leadville Trail 100 Camp turned me into an ultrarunner. I RAN AT A TORTOISE PACE at 10,500

feet, two miles east of the ghost town of Winfield, the location of our aid station in Colorado's San Isabel National Forest. My mouth felt like a salted margarita glass. My eyes glazed. It was day two of the Leadville Trail 100 Run Camp, an annual threeday summer workshop for 140 trail runners from all over the country, and I was feeling the heat. The camp’s 61-mile itinerary follows a portion of the renowned Leadville Trail 100-mile race course.

Today, we ran and fast-hiked from Willis Gulch Trailhead to the top of 12,500-foot Hope Pass—a five-mile, 3,200-foot continuous climb—down the steep backside, and several miles west to Winfield—the race’s notorious turnaround point where many athletes drop. Ironically, the silhouette of the out-and-back elevation profile forms devilish horns, with 6,700 feet of vertical gain in 20 miles. A rookie to ultra-distance training, I made one big mistake. I did not pack nearly enough water for

the stacked mileage and immense elevation gain. But run camp is the perfect incubator. Here, you can make mistakes that will improve race days and unsupported mountain runs. I hydrated at Winfield, borrowed a volunteer’s watch (blunder two: my watch wasn’t charged enough), and ran back over Hope Pass. At Willis Gulch, the campers’ relief was palpable. I ate lunch with folks from Nebraska, Colorado, Texas, Florida and everywhere in-between who had come to train at high altitude on the course. Most had registered for August’s big race. At 35 years old, the Leadville Trail 100 is one of the country’s oldest ultramarathons. With no prerequisites and an 850-person Forest Service permit, the run is also one of the largest century races in the country. In 2016, 637 athletes from 46 states and 25 countries toed the starting line. Roughly half finished. A few runners weren’t signed up for an ultra-race at all, including me. I finished my first trail marathon six days earlier and felt motivated by Junko Kazukawa, who I had just met. A coach and two-time cancer survivor, she has finished 36 ultramarathons and EO readers voted her the magazine's 2017 Endurance Badass. I saw camp as a tool for me to learn about training with tips from

BREATHE DEEP ONE-HUNDRED-AND-FORTY ERSTWHILE RUNNERS FROM ACROSS THE U.S. TRAIN AT ALTITUDE ON THE COURSE OF THE LEADVILLE TRAIL 100 AT THIS THREE-DAY HARDBODY SUMMER CAMP. photo by John Lloyd

athletes like Bob Africa, a Leadville finisher who spoke on the camp panel: “Hike 90 percent of the climbs, don’t bomb the downs, and train your turnover for the flat sections.” We finished camp with a 15-mile night run around Twin Lakes. I fell into sync with Tim Barr, who not only became a good friend, but later asked me to pace him at Leadville 100. After three back-to-back high-mileage days, I felt a sense of confidence and inspiration. For the first time, not one person found my my lofty goals, like of running the Grand Canyon Rimto-Rim-to-Rim, crazy. Post camp, I signed up for my first ultra, the Silver Rush 50-mile—and sprinted the start up Dutch Henri Hill in hopes of getting a gold coin that would allow me to pre-register for the Leadville 100. Sometimes, good health, motivation and luck align: With the gold coin in hand this August, I’m running Leadville. —Morgan Tilton

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FLASHPOINT

0 6 .17

THE END OF FORESTS Climate change is killing Colorado’s forests, and research shows the tree die-off will intensify in coming decades due to ever larger mega-fires fueled by rising temperatures. by PAUL TOLMÉ

n 2005, a group of fire experts announced the onset of a catastrophic new age: the era of the mega-fire. In a concept paper, “The MegaFire Phenomenon,” published by the Brookings Institution, federal wildland firefighting officials defined these mega-fires, which burn more than 100,000 acres, as “extraordinary, in terms of their size, complexity and resistance to control.” Once rare, these conflagrations are now the norm. Colorado has experienced several mega-fires over the past 15 years In 2013, the West Fork fire scorched more than 110,000 acres near Wolf Creek Pass. In 2002 the Hayman fire, the state’s largest, killed five firefighters, destroyed more than 100 homes and devastated nearly 138,000 acres. Mega-fires are consuming Western states. A 256,000-acre fire hit Washington in 2014, followed in 2015 by blazes of 218,000 acres and 145,00 acres. The Murphy Complex fires burned 652,000 acres in Idaho in 2007. Oregon’s Long Draw fire in 2012 scorched 557,000 acres. Alaska is the epicenter of the mega-fire phenomenon, suffering through fires of 1.3 million acres (2004), 636,000 acres (2009) and 615,000 acres (2004) in recent years. Canada’s forests are also ablaze. Last year, the Fort McMurray fire burned 1.5 million acres, forced the evacuation of thousands, and was declared one of Canada’s worst natural disasters ever. A record 10.1 million acres burned nationwide in 2015. “The U.S. burns twice as many acres as three decades ago,” and that acreage “may double again by mid-century,” states the 2015 United States Forest Service report, “The Rising Cost of

or arson, provide the Wildfire Operations.” The six worst fire seasons THE NEW NORMAL spark. A 2017 study in since 1960 have come in the past two decades, and STARTED BY TRANSIENTS “many western states have experienced the largest the Proceedings of the WHO LEFT A CAMPFIRE, SMOULDERING, THE wildfires in their state’s history since 2000.” National Academy of 2016 COLD SPRINGS The forests of the West are undergoing Sciences examined 21 FIRE IN NEDERLAND climactic change. Colossal beetle kills. Megayears of wildfire data DESTROYED EIGHT HOMES. CATASTROPHIC FIRES ARE fires and more acreage aflame. Simply put, we and determined that BECOMING THE NORM are witnessing the slow-motion collapse of an humans, deliberately ACROSS THE WEST DUE TO ecosystem. Our forests are dying. and accidentally, started RISING TEMPERATURES. Global warming is the big culprit. It’s two 84 percent of wildfires photo by Jasmine Bible degrees Fahrenheit hotter now in Colorado than during that time. More it was in the 1970s. Hotter temperatures and people living in and earlier snowmelt have lengthened the fire season visiting Western forests means more cigarette by 78 days since 1970, according to some studies, butts tossed from car windows, more campfire and the fire season now lasts 300 days per year in embers, more sparks from dirt bike tailpipes. some regions of the country. A 2016 study by the Smokey Bear, though well intentioned, deserves Lamont-Doherty Earth Observatory at Columbia blame. A century of all-out fire suppression has University says hotter temperatures and shorter left many forests choked with fuels and dry tinder. winters have doubled the amount of acreage burned Paul Bunyan is another culprit. The turn-of-thesince 1984. Doubled. century timber barons who clear cut mountainsides Science tells us it will only get worse. Some and decimated old-growth forests forever altered climate models predict temperatures could rise 6.5 ecosystems that had evolved with flame. degrees in Colorado by 2050. If that happens, the Now we are paying the price. Prior to 2000, forests of Colorado as we know them will be gone. the federal firefighting bill never topped $1 billion. Common Colorado tree species will be in decline, Since then, the tab has topped that amount 13 replaced by sagebrush, times. In 2015, the federal grasses and shrubs, and cost for fighting wildfires COLOSSAL BEETLE KILLS. MEGA-FIRES aggressive invasive species hit a record $2.1 billion. AND MORE ACREAGE AFLAME. SIMPLY such as cheatgrass. Last year it was nearly $2 PUT, WE ARE WITNESSING THE SLOWA reckoning is billion. Firefighting now MOTION COLLAPSE OF AN ECOSYSTEM. eats more than half of the coming—about where OUR FORESTS ARE DYING. we live, how we protect U.S. Forest Service budget. our communities, how By 2025, the figure could we adapt to flames. be nearly 70 percent, according to agency Coloradans’ relationship to fire will become even estimates. In 1995, firefighting was just 16 percent more intimate. of the agency budget. This should alarm recreationalists, wildlife watchers, hunters, anglers and others who value national forests. Wildfire is bleeding the Forest Fire has always been part of Western forests. Prior Service of money for other important programs— to European settlement, lightning was the prime recreation and trails, wildlife management, habitat ignition source. Now humans, through carelessness restoration and more.

A HISTORY OF FIRE

J U N E 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

FUTURE FORESTS

What will future forests look like? The grasslands of Boulder County’s Walker Ranch open space provide a glimpse of the impacts of fire and global warming. In 2000, the Walker Ranch Fire consumed 1,100 acres of ponderosa pine forestlands. Historically, low-severity fires burned through ponderosa forests, clearing out brush and creating an open and park-like ecosystem of tall trees with grassy spaces between that supported a diversity of plants and wildlife. When old ponderosas died, new seedlings took root. No more. Seventeen years after the Walker Ranch Fire, the ponderosa pines are not growing back. The forest is receding, the grasslands advancing. “In most parts of the Walker Ranch burn area we are not seeing any considerable number of seedlings regenerating,” says Thomas Veblen, a University of Colorado geography professor. Veblen has studied Colorado’s Front Range forests since the early 1980s, and he has seen this pattern repeated at many burn sites. “At the drier, lower elevations, there is frequently no tree regeneration.” Research from elsewhere in the West shows the same thing: Forests are disappearing on their southern fringes and at lower elevations. Scientists from the University of California, Davis and the U.S. Forest Service studied burned areas across 10 national forests in California and discovered that fires have killed so many mature, cone-producing trees that the trees are not re-seeding. “We are seeing a shrinkage of the total forest area,” says Veblen, who's studied the growth patterns of 6,000 trees on Niwot Ridge for three

JUNE 16-18

decades. “When we compare mortality rates from the early 1980s to the early 1990s, and from the 1990s to now, we can see there has been a two-fold increase in the rate of tree deaths.” One of Veblen's graduate students is working on a study whose data shows that Colorado is experiencing fewer and fewer years of successful tree establishment. “These are some disturbing trends,” says Adam McCurdy, forest program director for the Aspen Center for Environmental Studies, or ACES. “Wildfires, sudden aspen decline, mountain pine beetle and spruce bark beetle outbreaks, these are all natural occurrences but they are becoming more pervasive.” ACES hopes to educate the public and policymakers about forest health through its Forest Forecast initiative. Forestforecasts.org is an online program that shows how various tree species will decline statewide in coming decades. The model shows that by 2050, Aspen, Colorado, will have a “low suitability” classification for aspen trees, and by 2090 the city may be completely unsuitable for them. “As educators, we are trying to communicate a slow onset disaster,” McMurdy says. “The data is sobering.” Colorado’s forestlands will not disappear overnight, but they're on a downward slope. We are bearing witness to the onset of the Anthropocene— total human domination of the planet’s ecosystems. Humans have become the asteroid.

OUR CHANGING RELATIONSHIP TO FIRE Colorado has 24.4 million acres of forestlands, from low-elevation ponderosa foothills to dense

and snowy subalpine lodgepole pine and sprucefir forests. Colorado’s forested mountains are the water towers of the West. They protect watersheds by stabilizing soils and minimizing erosion and runoff. They sequester carbon. They are the epicenter of the state’s recreation economy. Colorado forests are home. About two million people live in Colorado’s “wildland urban interface,” the burn zone where subdivisions meet forests. In 2000, that figure was less than a million. Like coastal residents facing rising seas, mountain communities must prepare for rising flames. “Our old tools are not going to make it in the new era of Western wildfires,” says Tania Schoennagel, a fire ecologist and research scientist at the University of Colorado. In early 2017, Schoennagel was lead author on a study published with wildfire experts from across the West titled “Adapt to Wildfire in Western North American Forests, as Climate Changes.” The study says that fire suppression, forest thinning and prescribed burns are necessary but inadequate. The amount of acreage that needs treatment is massive. “How do we create communities that are more adapted to fire? That is the question,” Schoennagel says. It’s a question worthy of a national debate that is not taking place. “We need to embrace and prepare for change,” adds Schoennagel, “because change is coming.” PAUL TOLMÉ IS A FORMER COLORADAN NOW LIVING IN THE SOGGY BOTTOMS OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST. HE IS A LONGTIME OUTDOORS AND ENVIRONMENTAL WRITER WHOSE WORK FREQUENTLY APPEARS IN SKI, NATIONAL WILDLIFE AND OTHER PUBLICATIONS.

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HOT SPOT

06. 17

GATEWAY TO AWE Gateway Resort is literally adventure central. Its Adventure Center offers everything from bike tours to helicopter rides—and one impressive classic car connection. by CAMERON MARTINDELL

ost visitors approach Gateway by heading south from Grand Junction onto U.S. Route 50 toward Ouray. Be it summer or winter, the Switzerland of America can draw a crowd. But just beyond GJ’s city limits, there’s a relatively secret turn onto SR 141, which also leads to the postcard-perfect Gateway Canyons Resort. This adventure resort on the Dolores River offers outdoor fun and luxe downtime, but with a twist: It’s a also a hotspot of auto culture. Getting to Gateway is one of the best parts of your adventure. Not long after leaving Highway 50 and crossing the Gunnison River, the road winds into Unaweep Canyon. For even more spectacular views, go in fall, when all the colors pop against the red sandston walls towering around you.

ACTIVITIES Located smack on the Dolores River in the midst of redrock canyons, Gateway is a hub for outdoor fun. The Adventure Center offers guided hikes, mountain biking, off-road UTV touring, sport shooting, horseback riding and even helicopter tours. One of the highlights is the 3.5-mile roundtrip Juanita Arch hike, a trip that includes

a canoe paddle across the Dolores River to reach isolated Maverick Canyon and its 100-foot-wide span high in the Wingate Sandstone. Or head out on an intermediate rock climbing excursion, with gear included. If you’re a car buff, you’re in for a treat. Gateway’s founder John Hendricks (who it turns out is also the founder of the Discovery Channel), clearly loved cars. The driving center here that offers guests everything from Jeep Wranglers and other 4WDs for off-road explorations to Porsche 911s for smooth-driving fun on the pavement. The wide stable of automobiles even includes a Tesla Roadster, which is available for any visitors to Gateway, as well as beauties like the Ford GT, Chevrolet Corvette ZR1, Bentley SuperSport and Viper SRT, if you join the resort’s auto club.

A HISTORY OF CARS Hendricks also started a car museum on site that features nearly 60 classic cars spanning 100 years of American automotive history. One of the oldest in the collection is the 1906 Cadillac Model H Coupe and one of the rarest is the 1954 Oldsmobile F-88 concept car, which Hendricks purchased in 2005 at auction. The winning bid? $3.25 million. Also on site: NASCAR driver Jimmie Johnson’s champion Chevrolet SS, as well as classics from long-gone manufacturers including Duesenberg, Auburn, Cord and Cunningham along with rare models from Packard, Cadillac, and Pierce Arrow.

ACCOMMODATIONS Gateway features some plush accommodations, including 58 luxury suites and 14 private casitas. Some of those rooms, like the premium, 650-squarefoot King Suite in Kayenta Lodge, are bigger than

tiny houses. The decor SAVE FOR THIS matches the location, with THE PRICE TAG FOR THE Native American artwork, FINE PLEASURES OF rustic ranch elements, and GATEWAY CANYONS RESORT MAY SCARE OFF comfortable furniture. The OUTDOOR DIRTBAGS, BUT sofa in the main room folds CONSIDER THAT HERE YOU GET EVERYTHING out to a sleeper bed and FROM LUXURY there’s an internal pass ACCOMMODATIONS TO through fireplace to serve GUIDED ADVENTURES TO CLASSIC CAR CULTURE. both rooms of the suite. photos (clockwise from left) Peter Other accommodations Taylor, Peter Taylor, courtesy of include the Kiva Lodge, Gateway Canyons Resort (x2) built around the pool and clubhouse courtyard. Rates run a wide range, so it's best to check booking options often. In general, a package that includes a premium two-queen-bed room in the Kiva Lodge with $200 per day adventure credits runs $679 in June. The same package in one of the 1,650-squarefoot Stargazer Casitas, named for the terrace with a telescope, costs $1,729 per night.

RELAXATION AND DINING Tired after a day of canyon hiking and speed racing? Hit the resort’s luxury spa, where you can induge in a full range of treatments runing the gamut from standard deep tissue massages to a body ritual that includes a stimulating prickly pear catus gel wrap. Rather eat your food than wear it? The resort hosts five restaurants: Duesey’s Diner serves up comfort food from a vintage trailer. The Cantina and Kiva Grill both dish out southwestern fare (think maragaritas!). Head to Paradox Grill for a Colorado burger. And Entrada plates upscale cusisine with outdoor dining so you can watch the sun set and the stars rise. Sure, it may be pricey, but if you plan to go big, you won't regret spending that paycheck here. Learn more and book at gatewaycanyons.com J U N E 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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THE TRAIL

0 6 .17

MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS

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AND FOLLOW THIS ROUTE ON IPHONE, APPLE WATCH, IPAD AND ANDROID DEVICES. VIEWRANGER.COM

Download the free ViewRanger app and coordinates and head to the summit of an isolated fourteener on this classic backpacking adventure.

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SEE MORE ROUTE DETAILS, GPS DATA & PRINT MAPS. VIEWRANGER.COM/ELEOUT

by CHRIS KASSAR

ired of climbing peaks swarming with folks? Head to the Mount of the Holy Cross, the northernmost fourteener of the Sawatch Range. The lovely 14,011foot peak lies hidden from the power corridor of I-70 and it requires a rugged trek to reach the top. A backpack trip into the Holy Cross Wilderness, capped with a scramble to the summit of its namesake peak, offers the chance for full immersion in the wild and a bit of tranquil downtime. On the Cross’s lower slopes, you’ll ramble through quiet subalpine forest and wildflower-filled meadows. On the upper reaches, massive walls of sheer granite, vast verdant basins and rugged ridges pull you toward the summit. The standard North Ridge route is only 11 miles roundtrip and can be knocked off in one long, exhausting day, but take heed: It's a strenuous climb with 5,000-plus feet of elevation gain— including 1,000 on the return trip. If you want a truly enjoyable trip, spend a night (or two) at East Cross Creek.

1. HALF MOON TRAILHEAD

It’s off the beaten path; that’s part of the reason this climb stays relatively quiet. Enjoy the scenic drive starting from just west of Vail on I-70. Take Exit 171 and head towards Tennessee

Pass on Highway 24. Drive through Minturn, travel three miles and turn right onto the clearly marked Tigiwon Road (FR 707). Follow the long, winding, rough-at-times dirt road for eight miles to reach the trailhead.

2. HALF MOON PASS

From the trailhead, follow the Half Moon Trail west and upward through lush forest. After 1.7 miles, you’ll reach Half Moon Pass at 11,640 feet. Look back for views of the Gore Range and to the left to Notch Mountain before beginning your descent toward East Cross Creek. Remember, it’s a 970-foot to regain this pass on your way out. (Mental preparation might make it hurt less.)

3. EAST CROSS CREEK

The descent starts gradually, passing through dark forest, then a rocky open slope inhabited by chirping marmots. The downhill grade steepens, bringing you around a corner after which views of Holy Cross’s north face and the East Cross Creek Basin explode before you. Look for the waterfall cascading over boulder-strewn East Cross Creek. Continue downhill to the creek and pitch your tent in one of the numbered campsites (permits are required but free and self-issued). This mandatory campground serves

to minimize impacts on the fragile riparian ecosystem.

SWEET SALVATION

4. NORTH RIDGE

photo by Chris Kassar

Cross the creek on a spindly log bridge and follow the trail as it winds west over some mellow, rocky terrain. Increasing in difficulty, the route switchbacks through the trees, which thin with every step. After climbing a bit, you’ll reach the north ridge.

5. FINAL PUSH

Follow the ridge, with glimpses of the north face of Holy Cross, now closer and even more commanding. Take your time because the steep route gets rougher as you go, passing over talus and rocks. When you reach a notch, carefully peer over the edge to glimpse the Angelica Couloir, a technical snow climb. From the notch, the route turns left and the trail fades. Pick your own way up the steep talus slope leading toward the summit.

6. SUMMIT

After an exhilarating, but nontechnical scramble, reach the top and big, panoramic views of the heart of the Rockies. Pay attention on the descent: The trail is defined, but if you get distracted, you could end up way off route and in the wrong drainage.

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22,000 acres of parkland. Miles of trails. Wildlife, history, and the great outdoors all blend together at Fort Robinson State Park. Want to spend your days ripping singlestrack and your nights around a campfire? How about hiking in search of bighorn sheep while staying in a cozy cabin? Beautiful views and room to get away from it all.

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NUMEROLOGY

89,354

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TRAIL COUNTER

Number of feet hikers on the 486-mile Colorado Trail climb as they make their way from Denver to Durango. The trail crosses eight mountain ranges and hits a high point of 13,271 feet as it crosses just below 13,334-foot Coney Summit. Volunteers and contributors are needed to help maintain the trail. coloradotrail.org

We run down the numbers on the paths on public lands. by CAMERON MARTINDELL

n the 1915 publication Trail Construction on the National Forests, the U.S. Forest Service defined a trail like this: “Mere ways through the forest, whether marked or not, are not regarded as trails; they are matters of woodcraft rather than of permanent forest improvement. A trail is a narrow highway over which a pack animal can travel with safety during the usual period when the need for a highway exists.” But by the 1930s, tails had become more than pack animal work roads as the nation began to embrace recreation. Today, trails are the lifeblood to the way we enjoy our public land, whether we’re using them to reach mountain tops, post top Strava times on mountain bikes, set speed hike times on long distance systems or simply go for a mindful stroll. Oddly enough, trails today face serious problems. No one wants to pay to maintain them. It’s time to take a serious look at our trail systems.

SIXTEEN LOOKING FORWARD VOLUNTEERS AND NONPROFITS WORK HARD TO BUILD AND MAINTAIN THESE TRAILS. photo by Ben Fullerton

JUNE 7

The day EO staff and friends will work on a volunteer trail maintenance project with Jefferson County Open Space in Golden Colorado. Come out and join us or plan your own volunteer day project. jeffco.us/open-space/parks

100 11 MILLION PERCENT The increase in the number of volunteers the U.S. Forest Service will use to maintain trails on public land over the next five years. The goal comes from the National Forest System Trails Stewardship Act, a bipartisan bill that President Obama signed into law last November.

Weight in pounds of one liter of water. It may be the heaviest thing that you carry, but it can also be the most important thing you carry.

The number of use days the Colorado Fourteener Initiative attributes to hikers on Colorado’s highest peak, Mount Elbert. The nonprofit raises funds to maintain trails on Colorado’s 14,000-foot peaks, helping to preserve their fragile environment and mitigate the impact of all those footsteps. 14ers.org

The amount in dollars that Great Outdoors Colorado (GOCO) has awarded to trail projects over the last year in the first disbursement of its $30 million Connect Initiative Grants. GOCO has commited to three years of grants. goco.org

Number of new trails yet to be built or completed as part of the Colorado the Beautiful project announced by Gov. Hickenlooper in 2015. These include: The Colorado Front Range Trail, Lower Valley Trail, Rocky Mountain Greenway, Colorado Riverfront Trail, Ring the Peak, Peaks to Plains Trail, High Line Canal, Freemont Pass Trail, Alpine Loop Backcountry Byway, Crested Butte to Carbondale Trail, Eagle Valley Trail, Palisade Plunge, Paths to Mesa Verde, North Elk Creek, EldoWalker Trail Connection and the Arkansas River Stage and Rail Trail. cdnr.us

4,330,207

Steps ultrarunner Karl Meltzer took setting the Fastest Known Time (FKT) on the Appalachian Trail last summer, when he completed the feat in 45 days, 22 hours, and 38 minutes. He burned 345,122 calories at an average pace of 3.28 miles per hour.

Percentage of Coloradans who use trails. That's 4.28 million users in a current population of 5.35 million.

Number of people hiking or backpacking in the United States between the spring of 2015 and 2016. In 2008, the number was 29.23 million.

FOURTY-TWO

ONE THOUSAND Milestone number of projects organized by Volunteers of

Number of state parks in Colorado. Annual vehicle passes to access these parks are $70. cpw.state.co.us

Colorado to be reached in 2017 since their start 33 years ago. To celebrate all summer long, they are organizing seven signature projects throughout the state including one in Buena Vista this month. voc.org J U N E 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

WHERE WILL YOU GO

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NORWAY. THE WIND RIVERS. CANYONLANDS. ESTONIA. HELSINKI. CINQUE TERRE. MT. BALDY. PARIS. PARK CITY, UT. STRASBOURG. THE SWISS ALPS. CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL PARK. NAMIBIA.

THE SAN JUANS. THE SIERRA NEVADA. SAN GORGONIO. THE ADIRONDACKS. SAN JACINTO. THE GRAND CANYON. ISTANBUL. LAKE TAHOE. MOJAVE DESERT. ICELAND. THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY. LATVIA…

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STRAIGHT TALK

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IAN ANDERSON The Carbondale PR pro talks about what it takes to live the dream, and how he and the U.S. Whitewater Rafting Team almost broke a legendary record. by RUSS RIZZO

ski-bum-turned-desk-jockey, Ian Anderson is a big man behind the scenes. After all, he helps give a voice to active lifestyle brands as a partner and public relations director at Backbone Media. But all that office time hasn’t stolen his adventure time—you can find Anderson chasing his wife, Sari, a world champion adventure racer and accomplished ski mountaineer—around the local trails of Carbondale, Colorado, with their two young children. This January, he took it up a notch: A former river guide, Anderson joined members of the Vail Valley-based U.S. whitewater rafting team for a speed record attempt down the Grand Canyon. The film chronicling the trip, “The Time Travelers,” debuted at the 5Point Film Festival in May.

wanted to do, primarily the PR aspect, working with the media and promoting active lifestyle brands.

HOW DID YOU GET INVOLVED WITH THE “THE TIME TRAVELERS”?

I have bunch of friends on the men’s and women’s U.S. national whitewater teams. A lot of the guys had read Kevin Fedarko’s book, The Emerald Mile, which chronicles the original speed run back in 1983. The guys thought that with proper planning and the right boat, they could beat the record. [Backbone client] Chaco got excited about the possibility of documenting and supporting the trip.

HOW’D YOU JOIN THE TEAM?

The raft team consists of six core guys. But as we designed this experimental boat, the configuration called for eight people on the raft. So I got cajoled into joining the team, even though I’ve been more of a desk jockey for the past 10 or so years. I had a year to train and readjust my whole body to prepare.

WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO COLORADO?

I spent college summers raft guiding in West Virginia. When I graduated, I loaded everything in my truck and moved to Vail, where I got a job at a ski shop with the primary goal to ski as many days as possible. I was skiing 100 days and kayaking 100 days, living the dream. I did that for about four years and realized I should probably get a “real job.” YOU PROMOTED SUMMER EVENTS WITH THE VAIL VALLEY TOURISM BUREAU FOR SEVEN YEARS AND THEN JOINED BACKBONE MEDIA IN 2006. HOW DID THAT COME ABOUT?

I met the founders Penn [Newhard] and Nate [Simmons] on a media trip and enjoyed what they had to share about their vision for Backbone. They afforded me the opportunity to do what I really

THE RECORD FELL OUT OF REACH ABOUT 20 HOURS INTO THE TRIP, AT THE INFAMOUS LAVA FALLS RAPIDS. WHAT HAPPENED?

From the light on my headlamp, I could see the faces of the guys who are driving the boat as I am rowing backwrds. Going into the rapid, everyone was psyched. We were on line and feeling good. And then there was a huge wall of whitewater that basically buried John Mark [Seelig], who was next to me. As soon as we hit that wave I heard a crack and then a sound like a jet engine. We quickly figured out it was air coming out of one of the tubes.

WHAT HAS RESPONSE TO THE FILM BEEN LIKE?

The 5Point Film Festival premiere with 700 people in the room was incredible. The reaction I’ve heard

most commonly is, “It’s a huge bummer you guys popped the boat and didn’t get the record, but the story is much better because of that.” The fact that we had this challenge and we failed in our overall goal made it far more interesting.

SPEED FREAKS IAN ANDERSON AND THE VAIL VALLEY-BASED U.S. WHITEWATER RAFTING TEAM CAME UP SHORT OF BREAKING A 1983 GRAND CANYON RECORD WHEN THEIR EXPRIMENTAL BOAT POPPED A TUBE ON THE INFAMOUS LAVA FALLS. photo by Forest Woodward

WHAT DO SUCCESSFUL OUTDOOR LIFESTYLE BRANDS DO WELL?

Authenticity is paramount, especially when working with outdoor lifestyle brands. While many of the brands in the outdoor space we work with have grown well beyond their core audience, I think it’s critical that you maintain the authenticity in your storytelling. You also need your brand to be approachable.

ARE THERE LESSONS FROM BRANDS THAT DIDN’T DO THIS WELL?

The whitewater kayaking world exploded in the late 1990s. Professional kayakers were kind of the rock stars of the outdoor world. And that almost disappeared overnight. Some people have pointed to the fact that the marketing of whitewater kayaking was centered around people running big waterfalls and huge whitewater—it was completely intimidating to the average person. That’s the fine line you need to strike as a brand. You want to be aspirational without being intimidating. INTERVIEWER RUSS RIZZO IS A FREELANCE WRITER AND CO-FOUNDER OF DISPATCH RADIO, A BOULDER-BASED OUTDOOR ADVENTURE PODCAST COVERING THE WORLD OF THE OUTDOORS. CHECK OUT DISPATCHRADIO.COM FOR AN UPCOMING FEATURE ON IAN ANDERSON AND THE PEOPLE BEHIND “THE TIME TRAVELERS.”

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ONE-DAY EPICS

0 6 .17

I-70 HEAVEN by JAMES DZIEZYNSKI

F THERE’S AN UPSIDE TO being stuck in traffic

on I-70 west of Denver, it’s the scenery. The corridor of rolling mountains that bracket the highway are often overlooked, as many hikers have their sights set on more popular peaks— the heavily hiked fourteeners Grays and Torreys peaks excepted. Four years ago, I began to explore the former region in depth. While I expected to find perhaps a handful of good hikes, the wealth of incredible terrain and pristine wilderness was so bountiful that I turned my experiences into a book, Best Summit Hikes: Denver to Vail. If you’re up for a big day and want to stay relatively close to the Denver/Boulder metro area, these big hikes and scrambles (never exceeding class 3 in difficulty) will acquaint you with the mountains many have only gazed upon from highway gridlock.

LOOKING FOR BIG ADVENTURE CLOSE TO THE FRONT RANGE? THESE FOUR, ONE-DAY EPIC SCRAMBLES WILL GET YOUR HEART PUMPING AND MAKE A POST-HIKE BEER ALL THE MORE TASTY.

Fair warning: they’re are all big undertakings (expect at least six-hour roundtrips, even for strong hikers) and the modest mileage can be deceptive. Start early (3 a.m. is reasonable) as you’ll spend a lot of time above treeline and it is imperative to descend from high ridges when afternoon thunder showers charge in. Bring a friend. A few of these are best done as point-to-points, with relatively close parking areas at either end. Best of all, they all keep you close to the Front Range, so that you can spend more time hiking and less time behind the wheel.

PEAK 1 TO PEAK 6 TRAVERSE DISTANCE: 10 MILES

FEEL THE LOVE THE WIDE-OPEN LOVELAND TREK STARTS AT LOVELAND PASS AND ENDS AT THE LOVELAND SKI AREA PARKING LOT. ALONG THE WAY, IT TAKES IN SEVEN POINTS OVER 12,000 FEET AS IT RAMBLES ALONG THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE. photo by James Dziezynski

This hike and scramble traverses the heart of the Tenmile Range and is a truncated version of the longer, 15.6-mile, point-to-point between Peak 1 and Peak 10 (yes, the same Peak 10 at Breckenridge Ski Area). Best done as a point-to-point starting at the Bike Path Trailhead just off Exit 201, the first portion climbs steeply up to Royal Mountain on a trail then over to 12,805-foot Peak 1. This is where the fun begins! The traverse from Peak 1 to Peak 4 is a scrambler’s dream, with mostly solid class 2/3 rock and many of the easiest routes on the west (right) side of the ridge. Daring scramblers can stay high on the ridge for class 4/low class 5 options, but there are always class 3 bailouts on the west side. Along the J U N E 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

way, pass the soaring cliffs of the Dragon formation. After Peak 4, the ridge mellows. The Colorado Trail enters between Peaks 5 and 6. Following it west leads to a nice, casual hike to the Far East Trailhead, where your second vehicle awaits. If you’re up for a loop, take the Colorado Trail to Miners Creek Road to Rainbow Lake and back to the parking area in Frisco (or leave a second vehicle at one of the Miners Creek Rd. parking areas).

WILLIAMS FORK RANGE TRAVERSE DISTANCE: 13 MILES This point-to-point starts at the I-70 west tunnel parking lot (just beyond the westbound tunnel exit on the right) and ends at Ptarmigan Peak Trailhead in Silverthorne. Park one car in Silverthorne, then drive back through the tunnel and turn around at Loveland Ski Area and go west through the tunnel once more to reach parking. Most of this hike is off-trail but follows an obvious ridge. Start along the trail north of the parking lot and diverge onto the open, alpine terrain when it switches back east to climb the steep, grassy slopes of 12,757-foot Coon Hill. Traverse northwest to Point 12,411, then west to enjoy a wonderful, rolling class 2 stroll to Point 12,346, Point 12,429 and Point 12,221. Drop down into Ptarmigan Pass and keep pushing to the sixth and final summit of the day, 12,498foot Ptarmigan Peak. Atop Ptarmigan Peak, a welcome trail leads to the descent. This long hike down to the trailhead follows a well-traveled trail, though be warned: It can get hot in summer and there aren’t a lot of places to get water until you are close to the finish.

E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / J U N E 2 017

WOODS MOUNTAIN TO HERMAN GULCH DISTANCE: 9 MILES This one is a loop, so you’ll start and finish at the Herman Gulch Parking area off exit 218 on I-70. A class 1/2 circuit, the off-trail navigation is relatively easy and it's a nice outing for adventurous dogs. Start by hiking east up the Watrous Gulch Trail and follow it into Watrous Gulch, where the path eventually dissolves as you approach treeline. From here, it’s an off-trail walk up the slopes of 12,940foot Woods Mountain. Strong hikers may want to add on the huge, domed summit of 13,574-foot Mount Parnassus to the east before continuing to Woods (the two share a saddle). Head southwest

The corridor of rolling mountains that bracket the highway are often overlooked, as many hikers have their sights set on more popular peaks...

to Point 12,805 (ak.a. “Mount Machebeuf ”) and walk the western ridge to the saddle between Point 12,805 and the broad east shoulder of Pettingell Peak. The signed trail back to Herman Gulch materializes here. Follow it back to the parking area.

LOVELAND PASS TO GOLDEN BEAR PEAK DISTANCE: 7 MILES

TAKIN' THE HIGHWAY IT MAY FEEL A WORLD AWAY, BUT THE ALPINE SLOPES OF 12,805-FOOT MACHEBEUF PEAK RISE RIGHT ABOVE MULTIPLE LANES OF TRAFFIC. photo by James Dziezynski

LAT

38.5798° N

LONG

The Loveland Tour starts at the top of Loveland Pass and swings west along the Loveland Ski Area peaks. This is a good one for parking logistics: park one car at the bottom of Loveland Ski Area (in summer, you’re allowed to parking in front of the gate) and one car at the pass. Head west, cruising along the Continental Divide with some steep, class 2+ scrambling on semi-exposed ridges that cross Points 12,585, 12,414, 12,479, 12,752, 12,562, 12701 (Loveland Peak), and finally Point 13,010, known as Golden Bear Peak. The best descent is via the ski area cat roads, legal to hike. You can also leave your second vehicle at the I-70 tunnel west parking, but the problem is, you'll likely have to drive all the way down the I-70 Silverthorne to turn around and drive back up the pass and through the tunnel to get to Loveland Pass, as the horseshoe turn-around at the tunnel is sometimes closed to non-authorized traffic. FIND MORE I-70 HIKES IN EO. CONTRIBUTING EDITOR JAMES DZIEZYNSKI’S BEST SUMMIT HIKES: DENVER TO VAIL, AVAILABLE ON AMAZON AND AT COLORADO OUTDOOR RETAIL AND BOOK STORES. EXPLORE 96 SUMMITS, ALL WITH TRAILHEADS WITHIN 10 MILES OF THE I-70 CORRIDOR BETWEEN DENVER AND VAIL.

Extra Credit

READ ON TO FIND EVEN MORE ADVENTURE ALONG I-70. FRISCO TO VAIL VIA ECCLES PASS / GORE CREEK TRAIL 12 MILES This point-to-point summits no peaks, but it's still a great hike (or a good overnight). Start at Frisco’s Meadow Creek Trailhead off the north side of Exit 203. Take the Meadow Creek Trail up and over Eccles Pass and Red Buffalo Pass, then the Gore Creek Trail to the parking area at the end of the Vail Bike Path near the Gore Creek Campground. BERTHOUD PASS TO ST. MARY’S GLACIER 11 MILES This point-to-point starts at Berthoud Pass and ends at the St. Mary’s Glacier Trailhead (paid parking). That makes for a huge day with close to 6,000 feet of elevation gain and several thirteener summits, including James Peak, Mount Bancroft, Parry Peak, Mount Eva, Mount Flora and, as a bonus, 12,493-foot Colorado Mines Peak. GRAYS PEAK TO ARGENTINE PASS 7 MILES It's only seven miles, yes, but this loop starting from Horseshoe Basin near Montezuma is burly. It climbs 13,277-foot Ruby Mountain before gaining the class 3 south ridge of 14,270foot Grays Peak; then traverses east on a class 2+ ridge to 13,850-foot Mount Edwards before descending to Argentine Pass and the western trail back to the parking area in the basin. —J.D.

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Whale Lake, Zirkel Wilderness, Colorado - Devon Balet

PASSION

06. 17

THE PURE LINE WHAT’S A FLY-FISHING CLIMBER TO DO WHEN HE SPOTS INACCESSIBLE POOLS AT THE BOTTOM OF A SHEER CLIFF? RAP DOWN TO THEM, EVEN IF by DANIEL GALHARDO HE’S NOT SURE HOW TO GET BACK OUT.

BET SCADS OF ANGLERS have

walked on a bridge or on a high trail in the mountains, looked at the water far below, and wondered, Has anyone ever fished that? I often follow that with: There have to be some big lunkers down there, and It would be so cool to find out. One summer day, I was standing on the edge of a cliff looking down at such a place: the North Platte River in Wyoming’s Fremont Canyon. I knew the fishing upstream to be excellent, but I wanted to find out if it was even better down where no one could reach it. My friend, Doug Heggart, and I had had a blast fishing that morning. We'd doublehooked large trout with our tenkara rods and enjoyed an unusually windless day. Then, knowing of my other main passion, rock-climbing, Doug took me up the canyon. I peered down the sheer walls, my gaze going back and forth between potential climbing lines and the pools in the water below. There have to be some big lunkers down there, right?

year later, I recruited another friend, Steve Conrad, to return to Fremont Canyon and help me answer that question. Like me, Steve is a fly-fishing climber. Normally, my fly gear is as simple as it gets: a telescopic tenkara rod, line and fly. I leave the reel and other stuff behind in favor of this Japanese method of flyfishing that I discovered and introduced to the US in 2009. But in order to fish Fremont Canyon, we also needed climbing ropes, and a decent amount of hardware, harnesses, climbing shoes… perhaps because my other activities are so gear-intensive, I keep my fly-fishing simple. “Well,” said Steve, “I guess we’ll find out if the

rope is long enough.” Attached to the rope via a harness and rappel device, I stepped over the edge and started my descent. The granite walls were perfectly vertical. I split my attention between the rap, the water below and the features on the rock I’d have to climb later. We had eyeballed a possible climbing route earlier, but didn’t know for sure if we could get out—so far, it looked do-able. The spot where I landed turned out to not only provide one of the few places in the area with

Tenkara is often translated from the Japanese as “from the heavens.” Descending into the river like this, the name struck me as particularly appropriate today. rocks in the stream to stand on, but it also held some of the only fishy-looking features in this stretch of river: A half-dozen tiny islands created current breaks that funneled food and provided calm pools perfect for trout to hang out in. The water was murky, but readable and deep. Tenkara is often translated from the Japanese as “from the heavens.” Descending into the river like this, the name struck me as particularly appropriate today. Steve hooked into the first fish and called for help with netting it—showing us, immediately, that fishing here was going to be a team sport.

ON THE FLY As the day went on, we boulder hopped, YOU WON'T BE FIGHTING OFF THE CROWDS IF YOU stretched and lay on THIS SECTION OF rocks to net each other’s FISH FREMONT CANYON. fish. Salvation came photo by Jeffrey Rueppel from the fact that by using a rod without a reel or running line, we were forced to hold tight and battle the fish in relatively small areas. If we’d allowed these trout to run downstream and around boulders, we surely would have lost.

fter landing a few fish and realizing the splashes and commotion had likely ruined the element of surprise, our thoughts turned to finding the line of least resistance back up the cliff. We eyeballed the rock face and picked a crack. Cracks often offer the “easiest” route, but they can come with a surprise. We collapsed our rods, untied the line from the rod tip, put the kits in my pack, tied the ropes to our harnesses and started up. Our line looked challenging but fun—until I heard Steve groan. The crack had turned into an off-width, so called because it opens up into the wrong width for classic crack techniques. In general, Steve and I avoid off-widths because of the exhausting Houdini-like contortions required to climb them, but here we had no choice. We eventually huffed our way to the top of the cliff, and looked back at our day far below the canyon rim. I finally got to answer the question I had so often asked myself when walking high up above a body of water. Yes, of course, there were fish. DANIEL GALHARDO IS THE AUTHOR OF TENKARA: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE TECHNIQUES, GEAR, HISTORY, AND PHILOSOPHY OF TENKARA, THE JAPANESE METHOD OF FLY-FISHING. A MANIFESTO ON FLY-FISHING SIMPLICITY. YOU CAN ORDER IT AT TENKARAUSA.COM.

J U N E 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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TRAVEL

06. 17

GET TO KNOW US | Fresh back from Colorado, the Live Outside and Play team will be demoing gear, handing out magazines and sharing stories with our readers September 14-17 at the Gauley Fest in Summersville, West Virginia. This is also a chance to get acquainted with our sister publication, Blue Ridge Outdoors (blueridgeoutdoors. com), since this is their stomping grounds. Go outside and play!

WHITEWATER, WHITE LIGHTNING SURE, COLORADO IS STACKED WITH WORLD-CLASS RAPIDS, BUT IF YOU WANT TO ADD A LEGEND TO YOUR TICK LIST THIS YEAR, CONSIDER A TRIP TO WEST VIRGINIA. TIME IT FOR THE FALL AND YOU CAN TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE BIG-WATER RELEASES THAT LOCALS CALL GAULEY SEASON. by MELISSA MCGIBBON

“F

orward! All forward!” Jo-Beth approaching the notorious boat-clobbering commands, her soft voice getting louder Class V rapid named Sweets Falls—this is and more stern with each directive. She’s the fifth Class V rapid of our day. Our guide, not yet yelling at us, but she’s certainly ready to use Jo-Beth, is a petite woman with curly hair, all of our middle names as she calls out her paddling a megawatt smile and enviable biceps. Her team, orders. Our boat crew is not exactly the Harvard Sweets of the East, are title-holding whitewater Crew team. “Right back. All forward. One more. rafting racers, so suffice to say they can charm Get down!” We plunge into the 14-foot fall in our The Beast of the East. The level of charm in our 16-foot-long raft. We’re now vertical. This doesn’t boat right now may be under question, however. look good. Every Friday after Labor Day marks the A torrent of cold water rushes over us as Jo-Beth beginning of Gauley Season here in West Virginia. orders, “All back” again. I’m doing a mental check— It’s when the Army Corps of Engineers begins a we made it, we’re all still in the boat, I still have my series of 22 paddle, best controlled river trip releases ever! But now Some boats aren’t so lucky. One flips, from the we’re in the Summersville another loses a passenger. Paddles float box canyon to Dam, the left of the merrily along by themselves. It’s quite a scheduled for We hear kerfuffle—but also just your average jaunt falls. the following screams. Two six successive through this particular rapid. of the mates three- to from one of four-day the boats in weekends in September and October—simply to our group has gone overboard and are floating our unleash big flows and monstrous rapids. Pencil it in way fast. We’re unable to catch the first swimmer; on your calendar. under the raft, toward the next closest boat, she Gauley Season attracts adventure-seekers near floats. As we fish out the second swimmer, the bow and far, and the feral nature of the river makes floods—the entire front half of the boat is under it appealing to those, like me, who are... liberal water—and I’m feeling a little less like, “I’m flying, with odds. The large waves, big holes, dangerous Jack!” and more, “I’ll never let go, Jack. I promise.” obstructions and continuous unavoidable features Somehow we’re able to navigate out of the box that make it provocatively compelling are the canyon through a narrow passage without flipping same reasons to develop a healthy fear of the our raft or losing passengers—no small feat. We river gods. The risk-averse will find running the wait in an eddy for the rest of our group to make Gauley either a delightful foray into new levels of it. Some boats aren’t so lucky. One flips, another paddling nirvana or a good chance to master the loses a passenger. Paddles float merrily along by fine art of puking off the side of the boat. themselves. It’s quite a kerfuffle—but also just your T’S DAY ONE OF GAULEY SEASON AND WE’RE FAST

average jaunt through this particular rapid. Within a few minutes, everyone is back in their rightful boat, giving paddle high-fives and cheering.

THRILL RIDE

photo by Angela Sundstrom

PILOTED BY THE EVERSTEADY JO-BETH, THE AUTHOR AND CREW DIG INTO PILLOW ROCK RAPID, ONE OF THE GAULEY'S FAMED CLASS V BEASTS.

auley Season concludes with Bridge Day, a one-day festival held on the third Saturday of every October. It’s considered to be one of the largest extreme sports events in the world, drawing thousands of spectators and hundreds of BASE jumpers from around the globe who are there to take advantage of the six-hour window of opportunity to legally jump 867 feet off the New River Gorge Bridge. Some jumpers leap simultaneously, turning up the entertainment for river runners on the New River Gorge. I’m slightly relieved I’m not there for Bridge Day because, a jumper myself, I know I wouldn’t be able to resist the temptation to join my friends for the drop. Right now, I’m beat. Though I can hardly wait to continue tomorrow, on the Lower Gauley, I’m happy to have arrived at Wood’s Ferry, the take-out point for the Upper Gauley. We’re ready to retreat to our overnight glamping site at Canyon Doors, where our crew will host us with wood-fired hot tubs, hot showers, gourmet meals and booze. I’m hoping for at least a taste of Appalachia’s famed white lightning. It may not be the hardcore way to run a river, but right now it sounds like the best way. BOOK EARLY TO GET IN ON GAULEY SEASON. ADVENTURES ON THE GORGE PROVIDES TRIPS FOR ALL ABILITY LEVELS, BUT THE LODGE SETS THE PLACE APART, WITH WOOD CABINS, A VARIETY OF RESTAURANTS AND A GOOD COFFEE SHOP ON SITE. ADVENTURESONTHEGORGE.COM J U N E 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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READER POLL

0 6 .17

SCHOOL OF ROCKS WANT TO GO TO A SCHOOL WHERE ACADEMICS AND THE OUTDOORS HAVE EACH OTHER ON BELAY? WE ASKED OUR READERS TO VOTE FOR THE BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURE COLLEGES IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN WEST. HERE ARE THE 2017 WINNERS. by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

TUDENTS NEED TO PUT A LOT OF

considerations into play when they choose a college. First and foremost, they should find a course of study and professors that align with what they see as their future path in life—or at least ignite their intellectual passion. But location matters, too. Climbing matters. Hiking matters. The mountains matter. Learning goes deeper than the classroom. With that in mind, we asked our outdoor-minded readers to choose the best outdoor-focused colleges in the Rocky Mountain West.

WINNER

Western State Colorado University GUNNISON, COLORADO

With the mountains, streams and trails of Gunnison and Crested Butte in its backyard, Western State draws outdoor junkies from across the nation. But it's the school's dedication to programs that study, celebrate, protect and expand those wildlands that put it over the top in our poll. Through student led programs, Western's Wilderness Pursuits (WP) teaches leadership and provides low-cost gear rentals and classes— everything from rock climbing to kayaking to backcountry skiing—focused on outdoor exploration. “The leadership WP instructors exhibit is completely uncontrived and genuine,” says Christie Hicks, former WP director. “They constantly make decisions that positively affect the mental, physical and emotional well-being of themselves and others.” Indeed, Western prides itself on its empowering of students via outdoor-based education. Just look at the privately funded Thornton Research Program, which gives motivated undergrads the chance to write grant

proposals so students can engage in field research. And the Center for Environment and Sustainability connects faculty and student research and service projects with resilient solutions for ecological health and sustainable communities. Academically, Western's 3 + 2 Program fasttracks future-focused students with three years of undergraduate courses in one of five majors followed by two years of master’s level courses. The result is a bachelor's degree and a Master in Environmental Management (MEM) in just five years. Students majoring in Recreation and Outdoor Education (ROE) must work or volunteer for a total of 600 hours within their chosen area of specialization before graduation. “The approach of problem-based and experiential learning in the ROE program fosters student success,” says ROE Professor Brooke Moran. “Students are building their resumes through many of our classes, and they're not simply reading and regurgitating textbook material.” Sounds like a winner.

RUNNER UP

Prescott College PRESCOTT, ARIZONA

Prescott College has been synonymous with outdoor education for decades. For over 45 years, the school's Wilderness Orientation program has been getting students out on a three-week backpacking expedition in the remote desert mountains and canyons of Arizona. It's more than a retreat: In the field, the undergrads seek deeper connections to the land and themselves via the challenges of wilderness navigation and natural and cultural history. “We believe in the value of engaging directly with the outdoors. This means that many of our courses spend anywhere from several weeks to months in remote backcountry settings. This happens by a combination of month-long periods where students enroll in a

single class (blocks) and semester-length field courses where students spend much of the time in the backcountry,” says Shayna Beasley, Prescott's director of marketing.

HIGHER EDUCATION WESTERN STATE'S MOUNTAIN BIKE TEAM RAISES THE BAR AT THE GRIZZLY GRIND. photo by Jack Thibodeau

RUNNER UP

University of Wyoming LARAMIE, WYOMING

The least-populated state in the country prides itself on its public lands, and the University of Wyoming considers its national parks, wilderness areas, wildlife reserves, national forests and BLM land all part of its outdoor classroom. The school offers an extracurricular year-long Outdoor Leadership Development Series during which students organize backcountry trips and develop leadership skills in the field. Back on campus, the Sustainability and Environment and Natural Resources clubs teach students how to organize projects that engage the community in environmental practices. There's also a big focus on outdoor athletics here, highlighted by the Nordic ski team, which has won races at the World University Games in Italy, Slovakia and Kazakhstan as well as all over the U.S.

RUNNER UP

Red Rocks Community College LAKEWOOD, COLORADO

Nestled on the outskirts of Denver, Red Rocks proves that two-year urban schools can still hold their own for those seeking jobs outside the office cube. The school's outdoor education program prepares students to build careers in the outdoor industry be it as a NOLS instructor, outdoor educator or county park employee. J U N E 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

Estes Time S P ECIAL A DV ERTISI N G SE CTION

WHY BATTLE THE MADNESS OF I-70 WHEN IT’S TIME TO ESCAPE THE STIFLING SUMMER HEAT ALONG THE FRONT RANGE? ONE OF THE GEMS OF THE ROCKIES, ESTES PARK IS JUST A SHORT DRIVE AWAY. by HUDSON LINDENBERGER

ong before the first settlers arrived in the Estes Valley, the Arapaho and Ute tribes would ascend from the plains to spend their summers in the

more moderate temperatures in the valley. Many of the surrounding landmarks still bear the names they ascribed to them. When the town was founded in 1917—yes it’s the centennial anniversary this year— travellers from across the country came calling, drawn by the iconic Stanley Hotel that had opened eight years earlier in 1909, and Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), which had been created only two years earlier in 1915. They knew what you know, that every good adventurer needs a base camp, somewhere to launch the next adventure from. Cradled by RMNP, the town of Estes Park offers access to a dizzying array of opportunities rarely located in one single location and summer is when it shines. Looking to climb a mountain? There are over sixty topping out over 12,000 feet inside RMNP. Love to fish? The Big Thompson River, running through town, is loaded with trout. Want to bomb the trails on your mountain bike or ATV? Roosevelt National Forest (RNF) is interlaced with trails.

>> Roosevelt National Forest

miles. Best of all you can rent any vehicle you like in town (head here for details: visitestespark.com/thingsto-do/outdoor-adventures/off-road), and many of the operators offer tours. If fat tire action is more your forte, then head to the on its trails.) Hundreds of miles of forest service roads and trails are just waiting for you to explore. At just 4.5 roundtrip, Pole Hill Trail will challenge even the most

the allure of RMNP—that’s understandable, because

experienced rider, climbing a whopping 1,158 feet,

it’s one of the country’s crown jewels—but they miss

before topping out at treeline with vista views that will

out on the myriad of offerings awaiting them in the

take what little breath you have left away. Perhaps the best thing that the forest offers is the

the size of RMNP, it’s packed full of fun, with unique

chance to go exploring with your favorite furry friend

offerings found only inside its boundaries. Jump into

for a day, or two. Unlike RMNP, dogs are allowed on

a 4 x 4 (either a jeep, or a more adventurous rock

trails inside the national forest. Homestead Meadows

crawler) and head deep into the woods on one of the

Trail starts at Hermit Park, and leads you through

numerous trails that offer access into the wilderness

homesteads that were established between 1889 and

just outside of town. The twisted web of trails will

1923. At almost seven miles long it is just challenging

take you through ridiculous rock gardens, stream

enough for you and the hound, but safe enough to

fords, and mountainside overlooks that extend for

avoid worrying.

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the lay of the land

Roosevelt N.F. (RMNP does not allow mountain biking

Many visitors to Estes Park are inevitably drawn by

nearby Roosevelt National Forest. At three times

PARK IT HERE!

ESTES PARK SITS IN THE ESTES VALLEY WHICH IS ENTIRELY SURROUNDED BY OVER 1 MILLION ACRES OF PUBLIC LANDS— INCLUDING NATIONAL FOREST AND PARK.

DREAM LAKE IN ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK MAKES FOR AN IDEAL FAMILY HIKE (ABOVE). FLY FISHING IS SYNONYMOUS WITH ESTES. CAST A LINE AT SPRAGUE LAKE FOR BROOK TROUT. (RIGHT). CRAFT BEVERAGES RULE THE SCENE IN DOWNTOWN ESTES PARK (TOP RIGHT). photos courtesy Visit Estes Park (above and bottom), by James Frank (opposite page top right)

>> estes park

Besides the larger mammals, there are over three-

The waters of Lake Estes offer the perfect place to

there full time, or stop by during migrations.

rest and relax, the cool temperatures of the lake are a respite from the warm alpine sun shining down on the valley all afternoon long. Better yet head over to the Lake Estes Marina to rent a kayak, stand-up paddle board, or pontoon boat, to head out on the water. If you are looking for something to get the adrenaline pumping, some of the best Whitewater Rafting in the state is just outside of town on the Poudre, and Colorado Rivers. There are numerous experienced guide services in town offering full, or half-day outings on the rivers, including transportation to and from the river (head to visitestespark.com/things-to-do/ outdoor-adventures/whitewater-rafting/). Maybe hitting the links is more your style. Estes Park has you covered there, too. The two golf courses in town offer challenging layouts, stunning views and one of the most unique hazards in the world—herds of elk contentedly munching the fairway, mostly oblivious to the little white balls zipping about. With numerous restaurants, shops, galleries, and other businesses, downtown Estes Park is the perfect place to spend an afternoon between outings. One of the newest additions about to open is Latitude 105 Alehouse, featuring gourmet burgers and a wide variety of local craft beverages. It’s located inside The Ridgeline Hotel just steps from downtown. If you’re looking for more places to eat and stay, check out visitestespark.com for a comprehensive up-to-date list of everything in town. Maybe one of the best parts about this magnificent mountain village is the abundance of wildlife. Since public lands surround the town, the valley acts like a magnet for wildlife of all sizes. Engage in your own photo safari and see if you can bag the Big Five (elk, bighorn sheep, black bear, moose and mule deer) that all call Estes Park home.

hundred different species of birds that either live All summer long the town will be hosting different festivals and events. If you are a lover of bucking broncs make sure you come to the highly praised 91st annual Rooftop Rodeo July 5-10. For five nights, cowboys and cowgirls will be competing in a variety of events. Maybe something a bit more strenuous is your style? On June 18 the Estes Park Marathon, Half, 10K, 5K, and Kids Fun Run offer you a chance to run in one of the highest road races in America. Or, you could just come for the Estes Park Wine Festival on August 12-13, featuring over 20 Colorado wineries, fresh food and live music. Whatever your taste, Estes Park has you covered this summer.

>> R0cky mountain national park What could we say about RMNP that you have not already heard? Arguably one of the finest units in the park system it offers 265,461 acres of glorious beauty capped off by majestic Longs Peak. If you are looking to climb to the top of Longs make sure you come prepared—the easiest route is a challenging scramble that tests even the most seasoned of climbers. But Longs is not your only option. There are numerous other great hikes that are much less traveled. Estes Cone and Chasm Lake trails both take you above treeline and wind through numerous mountain meadows, cascading creeks, and highcountry heaven.

SIP IT UP Estes Park is a prime destination for delicious local libations. Since 1993 Estes Park Brewery has been turning out fine lagers and ales. Named after one of the best climbing areas in the country, located conveniently just up the road in RMNP, Lumpy Ridge Brewing is located inside an old gas station serving fine brews. The twelve taps at Rock Cut Brewing all pour homemade hoppy heaven that you can sip on the spacious deck. The Elkins Distilling Company is a hip, modern place serving some of the best white lightning—white whiskey—found anywhere on the planet. If looking for a little more spice, head over to the Dancing Pines Distillery Tasting room for the straight rye whiskey or award-winning chai spiced tea liqueur. Maybe you love the grape? If so Snowy Peaks Winery has a selection of homemade wines you can sip along with local meats and cheeses.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

WYOMING TRAVEL GUIDE

attlestar Galactica actress Katee Sackhoff once said of Wyoming, “We’ve got bears, we’ve got a lot of shotguns.” The same holds true for wilderness and outdoor adventure. The state boasts 27.6 million acres of public lands—and only a fraction lie in marquee regions like Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons. Near lesser-known spots, like Sheridan and Dubois, you’ll find federal parks, monuments, forests, and Bureau of Land Management plots that stretch, seemingly, with no end. But not every Wyoming town has the culture or amenities to satisfy today’s savvy outdoor traveler. Seasoned ones—like Colorado’s Front Rangers—want top-end hiking, biking, and backpacking trails plus trout-filled streams, pristine whitewater and an authentic Wild West feel. If the person we just described is you, look no further than this special travel guide to Wyoming, which features its lesser-known but spectacular mountain-adventure retreats, some that might surprise you as much as a shotgun in the back of a truck. ELEVATIONOUTDOORS.COM

FULL OF ADVENTURE. There’s plenty to see and do. Start planning your Cody, Wyoming vacation today. 1-800-393-2639 or yellowstonecountry.org. THE WILDEST WAY INTO YELLOWSTONE

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SWEETWATER COUNTY Get Festy in Rock Springs and Green River

ake the adventurous route to the national parks of Wyoming, and stay in Sweetwater County this summer. With events including concerts, rodeos and festivals happening each day, even our outdoor adventure has to share top billing. Plan your summer with these Sweetwater County happenings: Flaming Gorge Days, June 22-24, 2017: “Southwest Wyoming’s Weekend of Fun!” features kid’s games, parades and live performances from The Spazmatics, American Dueling Pianos and comedian Sam Adam. International Days, July 8, 2017: Celebrate the diverse heritage of Rock Springs, Wyoming, known as the “Home of 56 Nationalities.” Immerse yourself in international cuisine, costumes, exhibits and performances all day long. Wyoming’s Big Show, July 29-August 5, 2017: With plenty of rodeo action, carnival rides, a wide variety of delicious dining and evening concerts from Dan + Shay, Bush, Locash and Scott McCreery, the Big Show delivers. Sweetwater Blues N’ Brews, August 12, 2017: Join us in Bunning Park in Rock Springs when national blues bands and local and regional breweries come together to form one tasty summer festival for live music and beer fans alike. River Festival, August 18-19, 2017: Great food and drinks, activities, music, and fireworks are all jam-packed into the River Festival. With a Cajun Shrimp Boil, Car Shows and a marathon, there’s fun for all ages and interests. Nearly Eclipsed, August 21, 2017: Sweetwater County is the perfect basecamp to witness the 2017 total solar eclipse. Experience 96 percent of the total solar eclipse and enjoy a variety of outdoor adventures as well as familyfriendly, affordable dining and lodging offers. Because, on your way to the national parks, it’s not just about getting there. It’s about getting out. Don’t just vacation. Adventure. TourWyoming.com

JUMP OUT OF THE CAR AND INTO ADVENTURE.

THE ADVENTUROUS ROUTE TO THE NATIONAL PARKS. Yellowstone National Park 235 MILES TO YELLOWSTONE

Grand Teton National Park 183 MILES TO GRAND TETON

Jackson Hole

191

186 MILES TO SALT LAKE CITY, UT

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E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / J U N E 2 017

Green River

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191

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SHERIDAN

find adventure in the bighorn mountains

t’s called “Wyoming’s Jewel” for a reason. Twenty-five miles from the Montana border, Sheridan sits at the edge of the 1.1-million-acre Bighorn National Forest and its top-notch camping, fishing, hiking, rock climbing and wildlife watching. With a population of 18,000 people, the town is about as Western as you can get. “It’s pretty cowboy,” says Shawn Parker, executive director of Sheridan Travel & Tourism. “We have one of the biggest rodeos in the west. But the arts are huge, with a lot of support through philanthropy.” Sheridan also boasts one of the oldest dude ranches—Eaton’s—in the world. The outdoor recreation opportunities are off the hook, but you could say they’re still in their relative infancy. Which is yet another boon to this relatively secluded spot. While the Boulders, Jacksons and Bozemans of the world offer outdoor rec opportunities and races, they are crowded. Meanwhile, camping, hiking or backpacking in the Bighorns can be an out-of-body experience. “You’re far removed from civilization the second you get out of your car,” says Parker. “You can still find incredible solitude and empty trails here.” Try car-camping at Sibley Lake, with access to a 60-mile backpacking loop into the heart of the Bighorns. If fishing, mountain biking or horsepacking is more your thing, hit up Fly Shop of the Bighorns, Sheridan Bicycle Co. or The Sport Shop, for gear, instruction or inside tips. Black Tooth Brewing Company employs a group of avid rock climbers, trail runners and mountain bikers and hosts a 24-hour Tooth to Tooth adventure race with 13,000 feet of elevation gain… or you can enter the Dead Swede 100- or 40-mile gravel grinder race... or try the Big Horn Scenic 52-mile trail run. The options for adventure are wide open up here. sheridanwyoming.org

J U N E 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

2017

PADDLING GUIDE S P E C I A L A DV E R T I S I N G S E C T I O N

OLORADO GROUND SPORTS—HIKING, MOUNTAIN BIKING, CLIMBING— ARE FUN, BUT WATER (ESPECIALLY WHITEWATER) SPORTS ARE EVEN BETTER. AND WHAT COULD BE MORE FUN THAN PADDLING ON A THE LIQUID VERSION OF THE SUBSTANCE YOU RECENTLY SKIED ON? WE HAVE DOZENS OF PADDLE-WORTHY BODIES OF WATER IN OUR STATE, SO, THIS SUMMER, GET ON THE WHITEWATER WAVE TRAIN BY LEARNING HOW TO RAFT, KAYAK, OR STANDUP PADDLEBOARD WITH ONE OF THE FOLLOWING QUALITY-CONTROLLED OUTFITTER-INSTRUCTOR-OPERATORS. ELEVATIONOUTDOORS.COM

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PADDLING FACTS

Epic guidebooks created to document the state’s whitewater. The first, Colorado Rivers and Creeks, was released in 1999 (second edition). Whitewater of the Southern Rockies was released in 2007, it includes more rivers descriptions (and river tales) while also covering the surrounding states.

Number of Colorado rivers with Wild & Scenic designation. That would be the Cache la Poudre near Fort Collins.

1949

The year FibArk, which reigns as America’s oldest river festival, got its start after two friends bet each other on a paddle race from Salida to Canon City. The festival, held the third week of June, now draws some 10,000 people each year. Meet up with the EO Live Outside and Play Road Show there this year!

4 CORNERS RIVER SPORTS COLORADO’S LARGEST PADDLESPORTS STORE Located on the banks of the Animas River in the southwestern Colorado town of Durango, 4Corners River Sports has been helping folks enjoy their local waterways for more than 33 years. One of the oldest paddling stores and instructional centers in the state, it o ers a fullservice paddlesports retail store, paddle school and rental center. It also o ers outfitted river trips through an a liate guided whitewater rafting company. It strives to provide the highest quality of service, information and education for all types of paddlesports, whether it’s Class V whitewater kayaking, flatwater SUP touring, desert raft floats, kayak or canoe fishing and everything in-between. RIVERSPORTS.COM

ROCKY MOUNTAIN OUTDOOR CENTER TEACHING RAFT, KAYAK AND SUP SKILLS ON THE ARKANSAS RIVER The big news for the 34-year-old RMOC is that they’ve moved from Salida to riverfront property in Buena Vista. The school runs instructional trips on the Arkansas River and all its instructors are American Canoe Association certified. They teach everything from basic strokes and balance techniques to safety and rescue to professional instructor/ guide training. Plus, access to whitewater parks in Buena Vista and Salida provides world class educational venues. With over 100 miles of river, RMOC caters to all abilities, from mild to wild!. Sign up for a group half-day lesson ($75) or an all-day private one ($300). RMOC.COM

1,459

Miles of the Colorado River as it winds from its central Colorado headwaters, through Arizona and the Grand Canyon and into Lake Mead. The iconic river system has long been diverted for power use, irrigation and drinking water. In fact, according to the Conservation Lands Foundation, some 30 million people in seven states use it as their primary source for municipal water needs.

n h er f Clrd Wn Cuty

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STAND UP PADDLE ADVENTURES IN THE NORTH FORK VALLEY

DEDICATED TO THE SPORT, LIFESTYLE AND COMMUITY OF STAND-UP PADDLEBOARDING

Established in 1954, Denver-based Colorado Whitewater (CW) is one of the oldest and largest whitewater clubs in the country with over 600 active members. CW is an allvolunteer, nonprofit organization that promotes whitewater sports like kayaking, rafting, and SUP in the Rocky Mountain region. They teach paddling techniques and swiftwater safety, offer free river cruises for members, support river competitions and events and organize off-river events such as dinners, happy hours, and movie night throughout the year. Colorado Whitewater also strives to help resolve problems with river access, conservation and other issues concerning rivers and wilderness. Come join the club!

Western Slope SUP benefits from two outstanding factors: They’re located in the North Fork Valley—gorgeous, unpopulated, and far, removed from the Front Range crush—and they’re in the heart of Colorado wine country. A typical SUP lesson here includes “getting to know your paddle board,” which can feel dicey for beginners. But founder Daniel Roman says, “SUP takes something that might be run of the mill— paddling glassy water with minimal rapids in a kayak—to something really exciting.” Learn stand-up paddleboard basics in a beginner lesson in Crawford State Park (half day; $45) or leap into river boarding in an half-day lesson on the Gunnison River for $65.

With three locations on the Front Range— Boulder, Longmont and Denver—Rocky Mountain Paddleboard offers rentals, beginner instruction, SUP Yoga, youth camps, river instruction and private-group catering. If you have never tried SUP, start here: Their goal and passion is to help first-time paddleboarders discover a new sport. New paddlers will overcome fears, embrace challenges, build community and engage with Colorado’s beautiful surroundings. Visit their retail store headquarters at Union Reservoir in Longmont for all your gear needs, including a large selection of new and used boards, or join the fun at the Paddle the Rockies SUP Classic + Paddle Festival and/or the five-year anniversary party.

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WESTERNSLOPESUP.COM

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ESSENTIAL GEAR F O R R O C KY M O UN TA I N CA M P I N G

BROUGHT TO YOU BY BEREN GOGUEN, SIERRA TRADING POST PLANNING A CAMPING ADVENTURE in the Rocky Mountains? You’re in for a treat. Stretching from British Columbia to New Mexico, the Rockies harbor some of the most beautiful camping locales in North America. Many are easily accessed by a two-wheel-drive car, while more remote locations may require a well-equipped SUV or four-wheel-drive vehicle. Of course, a handful of the most stunning and secluded campsites are only accessible by foot. No matter what section of the Rockies you choose to visit, here are five camping essentials you don’t want to forget:

SHELT E R Depending on how you like to camp, your shelter could range from a fully outfitted RV to a bare-bones bug net and tarp. A tent, no surprise, is the age-old camping favorite. Tight budget? The Kelty Grand Mesa 2 (which runs just $140 at retail) is a lightweight, fast-pitching option with many glowing testimonials. Want more bells and whistles? The Marmot Limelight 3P offers a roomy sleeping area and ample headroom. It also serves up interior organizer pockets and includes a footprint. Camping solo? Check out the Sierra Designs Flashlight 1. Don’t forget tent stakes. It can get pretty windy up there.

SLEE P I NG BAG First, narrow your selection by insulation type. Down bags offer the highest warmth-to-weight ratio and compress more than synthetic bags (great for backpacking). However, down is pricier and also loses its insulating capability when wet. If significant rain is in the forecast, a synthetic bag is a safer choice (and easier on your budget). The weather in the Rockies is often more extreme compared to lower altitudes, so choose an appropriate temperature rating for the time of year, the region and the elevation. Marmot, Sierra Designs and Big Agnes all offer great options. If you’ll be sleeping in a tent or directly on the ground, pack a good insulation pad, too.

H YDRAT I O N It’s easy to become dehydrated at higher elevations, especially in hot weather, so drink plenty of H20. Most RV and car campgrounds have potable water, but not all. Research water sources ahead of time and be ready to transport water if needed. Never

C OOKING GEA R There’s nothing like hot, tasty grub in the great outdoors, but you’ll need a good camp stove and some cookware. Although it’s possible to prepare meals over a campfire, a fire ban could put the kibosh on your dinner plans. Get a windscreen for your stove if it doesn’t have one (heavy-duty tinfoil works) and extra fuel. You can use your stove to purify water in a pinch. Don’t forget some biodegradable soap, a sponge and a dish rag for cleanup.

M A P (A ND SOME GOOD P L A NNING) Research your destination ahead of time and be aware of potential hazards, including weather and wildlife. Get a map of the area if you plan on exploring. Prepare for any possible weather scenario with the right clothing. Pack sunscreen, bug spray, a first aid kit and emergency gear. Always let someone know where you’re going. Be safe, have fun and always leave no trace.

FOR MORE TIPS, CHECK OUT OUR CAMPING GUIDE AT STP.ME/CAMP 17

drink from natural water sources without purifying first. J U N E 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

THE AWARD-WINNING

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Del Norte: gateway to rich history and a mountain bikers dreamcome-true with new mountain bike trails, a brew pub and a charming downtown. Monte Vista: central location near Wildlife Refuges, home to one of Coloradoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first golf courses and home of Stampede Rodeo, oldest Pro Rodeo in Colorado.

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E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / J U N E 2 017

every dog is an explorer

BEST GEAR

06 .17

TRAIL-TESTED WINNERS

COLUMBIA

Summer is here and it’s time to get up in the high country. Meet our favorite shoes and essentials for time on the dirt.

CALDORADO II

OBOZ

CREST LOW BDRY

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

BEST TRAIL SHOES Columbia Montrail Caldorado II BEST FOR: RUNNING

The Caldorado II excels here on the trails and peaks of the West—but we had the lucky chance to test it across the globe on the high paths of the Alps (in the rain, no less). That's not an entirely crazy proposition since Columbia sponsors the legendary, 105-mile Ultra Tour de Mont Blanc (UTMB) and hosted us on a European session to bang around on the shoes. We ran and hiked hut-to-hut with small packs and these 9.5-ounce doit-all kicks on our feet along parts of the race course. Nothing slowed this shoe down: It felt just as stable on dirt as it did in mud and slick snowfields thanks to 4-mm lugs that provide solid traction on bare, exposed rock. When we let them loose, the double mesh upper breathed like a champ and the Fluid Foam/Fluid Guide technology in the midsole offered up some spring to our step while keeping our feet anchored. Best of all, they fit straight out of the box. Add it all up and you have our favorite all-condition trail runner of the season, an ideal shoe for all the variable weirdness of wilderness runs. $120 | columbia.com

Scarpa Zodiac Plus GTX BEST FOR: BIG TRIPS

Need a heavy-duty boot? The Zodiac Plus GTX embodies all the fortitude of a classic trekker without all the weight. Bolstered with a Gore-tex membrane and tipping the scales at a mere one pound, three ounces (in a European size 43), this backpacker’s best friend delivers all the surefootedness of a far heavier kick. You feel the difference as soon as you slip it on thanks to a soft-shelllike sock where a traditional tongue

SCARPA

MONTBELL

ZODIAC PLUS GTX

VERSALITE

would be. That innovation not only simplifies the boot but also form fits the shoe to your foot shape. The Vibram Drumlin sole sticks to rock and scree and four different densities of midsole material in strategic spots underfoot suck up the shock of the trail. $250 | scarpa.com

GREGORY CITRO 25

Oboz Crest Low BDry BEST FOR: THE REST

Your daily, stand-by hiker needs to hold up to a summer of hard use. The Crest Low BDry delivers: Speed lacing makes it secure, breathable mesh on the upper keeps it light and airy and the waterproof BDry membrane sheds moisture. Best of all, the tough Thruhiker outsole, made for 1,000-mile treks, can handle a beating. $150 | obozfootwear.com

LIGHTWEIGHT BLISS CARRY IT ALL Montbell Versalite

The key to the perfect Colorado rain shell is to find one that can deal with the downpour of a sudden cloudburst but that's also light enough that you forget you have it in your pack (since you most likely won't need it here). Weighing a silly 6.7 ounces, the Versalite sheds precip like a champ, with a sturdy 2.5-layer membrane, and still includes features like handy front zippered pockets. $169 | monbell.us

Gregory Citro 25 Meet the ideal small pack for big summer hikes. The 2.5-pound Citro 25 featrues a moisture-wicking back-panel ventilation system that lets in plenty of air and cuts down on sweat without overwhelming the pack. Inside, there's enough space to hold gear for serious adventures, such as the one-day epics we profile in “I-70 Heaven,” (see page 27). $130 | gregorypacks.com J U N E 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

STYLE

06. 17

WHEN YOU GET THAT FEELING FITNESS RACONTEUR ADAM W. CHASE EMBRACES SOME CROSS-SEXUAL HEALING IN "THE BOX." photo by Marie-Dominique Verdier

MEET THE CROSSSEXUAL

Because workout freaks deserve style, too. by ADAM W. CHASE

OU KNOW YOU’VE ALWAYS

envied people who post about the perfect snatch they saw during the WOD in their box. Sadly this is not “sexual.” It's Cross-sexual. This is how the CrossFit faithful talk. But what does it take to join this tribe? We have you covered. To unleash your inner CrossSexual, you’ll need to start by joining a gym, know as a “box.” Fortunately, unlike many boxes where bad form seems de rigueur, Colorado CrossFit 48

gyms emphasize proper execution of what might otherwise be dangerous cleans, jerks and snatches. Those kipping pull-ups, however— when you swing your legs for momentum—look like the person performing them just got hit by a Taser while hanging from a bar, no matter where you do them. Who would call that thing a pull-up ... and just... why? Maybe you’ll throw up before you throw out your back? Oh, wait, throwing up is part of the workout. Want to know more Cross-sexual secrets? You’ll need to turn paleo, except on “cheat day.” But worry not, that basically means you eat bacon at every meal. Remember to drink coconut water and bulletproof coffee. To look the part, you’ll need Reebok, Inov-8, Topo Athletic or Nike on your feet. When it comes to apparel, Reebok and Lululemon are mainstays, along with newcomer, Respect Your Universe. And chalk. Chalk dust is to CrossFit as cowbell is

E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / J U N E 2 017

to the downhill And we all need more cowbell. Intrigued? Read on for our breakdown of the best fitness apparel to help you dress like a Cross-sexual:

Reebok CrossFit Burnout Tank This tough yet tender tank is slim fitting so it moves with you through your WOD, wicking sweat and fighting off stench with an antimicrobial treatment, while a water-resistant finish repels vomit. $40 | reebok.com

Topo Athletic ST-2 While not designed specifically for CrossFit, this shoe keeps with the natural, minimalist sense snatchers love thanks to features like a low stack height and zero drop from heel to forefoot. The breathable upper features stretch mesh that moves with your feet. $90 | topoathletic.com

Respect Your Universe Teclayr 2N1 Short RYU (Respect Your Universe) saves you from needing to wear both compression briefs and over shorts by doubling them up: A supple, four-way stretch shell covers an antibacterial carbon mesh-lined inner short that's snug enough to grip your package, but not so snug that your grunts go soprano. The quick-drying woven outer features side splits for maximum range of motion, plus breezy laser-cut venting and a handy back pocket. $65 | ryu.com

Groove Life Silicone Ring CrossFit is all about commitment, and low-profile, breathable Groove Life rings are as single-minded as the sport. They feature moisture channels, air ports and an inner arch, so active users won’t snag them on their egos. The durable rings come with a lifetime warranty and in a variety of colors. $30 | groovelife.com

ADVENTURE DOG

PHOTO CONTEST

ONE LUCKY WINNER WILL RECEIVE THIS RUFFWEAR PRIZE PACKAGE!

PRESENTED BY

FRONT RANGE™ LEASH QUENCHER™ BOWL HIGHLANDS™ PAD

PHOTO BY HALLEY BURLESON OF APPALACHIAN EXPOSURES

CHRIS SEGAL

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STAY & RIDE

$65 Per person / double occupancy

ONE NIGHT OF LODGING AT THE GRAND LODGE AND A ONE DAY TICKET TO EVOLUTION BIKE PARK® Does not include taxes and fees. Restrictions and blackout dates apply. Subject to availability. AVAILABLE AT SELECT RETAIL LOCATIONS. FOR A LIST OF SHOPS, VISIT:

RIDECB.COM/SAVE

J U N E 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

2017 ROAD TOUR FIND US THIS MONTH AT:

BURNING CAN FESTIVAL AT LYONS OUTDOOR GAMES JUNE 2-3, LYONS, COLORADO

2016 GOPRO MOUNTAIN GAMES JUNE 8-11, VAIL, COLORADO

FIBARK WHITEWATER FESTIVAL JUNE 15-18, SALIDA, COLORADO

ROYAL GEORGE RIVER FESTIVAL JUNE 23-24, CANON CITY, COLORADO

PRESENTED BY

FOLLOW THE ADVENTURE @LIVEOUTSIDEANDPLAY ELEVATIONOUTDOORS.COM/ROAD-TEAM

EPIC IS OVERRATED. You could go shoot rapids, get wet, get cold, and spend an hour hanging on for dear life, all for the low cost of…that’s a lot of money. Or you could float. Sitting in lawn chairs, in a cattle tank. Sure it’s a different way to go, but if you’re looking for a leisurely way to get eight friends and a big cooler down a river, tanking is the way to go. Epic is overrated, adventures aren’t. Find your next adventure. Come to Western Nebraska.

to Western Nebraska

TankWestNebraska.com

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HEAR THIS

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WELCOME TO BEAT STREET The Music District in Fort Collins is a creative-space community that may just change the future of the music industry. by PATTY MALESH

n September 30, 2016, The Music District opened its doors in Fort Collins, Colorado. While the name harkens to legendary performance spots like Memphis’s Beale Street or Austin’s 6th Street, the moniker is a bit misleading. The Music District isn’t exactly a main street for audiences craving music in tourist worthy locations with sticky floors, nor is it legendary. Not yet. The Music District is a music-centered gathering space: a (mostly) free incubator and one-stop shop for innovative artists, businesses and networks. It's the newest project out of The Bohemian Foundation, whose mission calls for empowerment through community-building across civic, humanitarian and art-forward grants and programs. The foundation’s commitment to building community through music is already well established: Its Bohemian Nights encompasses a free concert series showcasing local artists as well as ticketed shows featuring national acts, and it's music fund offers non-profits grants to hire musicians for events at market rate. But The Music District is the foundation's sexiest project yet. The 57,000-square-foot campus consists of five buildings: The Two Sisters, Little Brother, Carriage House and The Long Building. The Two Sisters, originally two structures now conjoined by a spacious foyer, comprises the main entertainment and practice space. It's divided into a quaint live performance venue and a three story state-of-the-art

the District. It's also home TAKING IT TO ELEVEN wing with customizable rehearsal rooms. Musicians to The Scene magazine can make use of everything from workshop and BEYOND PROVIDING WORKING SPACE FOR and a host of fresh event meeting spaces to a first-spin station to first-come AND BUSINESSES, production, management, ARTISTS first-serve creative spaces and more. There's also a THE MUSIC DISTRICT and consulting companies HOSTS A FULL CALENDAR top-of-the-line kitchen with enough kitch to make OF FREE COMMUNITY that run the gamut from Elvis feel at home. EVENTS, SUCH AS A artists to businesses. According to director Jesse Elliott, the design of THREE-PART “MUSIC VIDEO Little Brother houses The Music District included extensive community CREATION SERIES” TAUGHT BY NOCOAST MUSICIANS. the Woodshed Music input so as to support, rather than compete with, photos courtesy THE MUSIC retail store, which local businesses. While the initial concept included DISTICT specializes in new and a multi-million dollar recording studio, “we found consigned instruments, great studios already existed, everything from and two apartments that currently house panelists/ garage studios to the Blasting Room,” he says. He guest speakers and performers but will eventually adds that what musicians really need is support accommodate artists-in-residence. with pre-production that complements available The Music District plans to reach beyond resources. The Music District does this by offering Colorado, too. This fall, it will participate in musicians the space, training, and technology that One Beat’s (1beat.org/) they need to hone their craft international cultural for free or a small fee. IN WHAT FEELS LIKE AN exchange. One Beat's Public events here are mission to “cultivate a always free and they promote INCREASINGLY PAY-TO-PLAY COLORADO, THE MUSIC pioneering international the community-minded network of leading artistic, mission. Upcoming offerings DISTRICT REMINDS US WHY technological and social include such wide ranging WE FELL IN LOVE WITH THE innovators in music” by bits as a “So You Wanna STATE IN THE FIRST PLACE. “bringing together emerging Be A DeeJay” workshop musical leaders from around to a “Community Barn the world to collaboratively create original work Dance” sponsored by the Central Rockies Old-Time and to develop a global network of civically engaged Music Association to a screening of Hedwig and music initiatives.” In October, The Music District the Angry Inch. “Three-fourths, maybe more, of the will host 25 One Beat artists from around the world workshop concepts and programming come from for their final week in U.S. the community,” says Elliott. In what feels like an increasingly pay-to-play The Two Sisters working space and events Colorado, The Music District reminds us why we calendar may be impressive, but they are only the fell in love with the state in the first place. Before beginning when it comes to how The Music District the word gets out, we suggest you stop in for a banjo aims to change music as an industry and an art in lesson. Or ten. Colorado and beyond. The Carriage House and the Long Building both offer low rent digs to music industry business tenants as well as affordable VISIT THE THE MUSIC DISTRICT AT 639 SOUTH COLLEGE AVENUE, FORT COLLINS, CO 80524. YOU CAN REGISTER FOR co-work spaces. Current tenants include volunteerEVENTS ONLINE AT THEMUSICDISTRICT.ORG/CALENDAR. powered KRFC 88.9 Community Radio, which was TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE WORK OF THE BOHEMIAN housed in the Long Building before it became part of FOUNDATION HEAD TO BOHEMIANFOUNDATION.ORG. J U N E 2 017 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

THE ROAD

06 .17

A WILD SPACE The first SUP descent of the last charted river in the U.S. comes face-to-face with history, family, politics and the realities of soaring canyon walls. by MORGAN TILTON

shoot my feet back burpee-style and flatten my body against the stand-up paddleboard. The Escalante River has become a tunnel of vegetation so narrow that there’s no difference between middle of the stream and edge of the bank. My right forearm linchpins the paddle as I grip the railing of the SUP. I swing my left arm up over my head to guard against the branches of overgrown Russian olive trees. Swept forward by the current, I float into another splay of bony branches. They scour my bare skin. But there’s something worse than the scrapes—spiders sprinkling down all over me. Stuck in this molasses-paced conga line on the choked river, our fiveperson crew pushes, drags and canoe-paddles our SUPs for six miles from the put-in below the bridge along Utah Highway 12. At last, the initial stretch of backcountry brush gives way and the Escalante begins to zigzag erratically through cliffs, terraces and Navajo Sandstone walls that tower hundreds and hundreds of feet above the water. On a map, the river’s silhouette resembles a series of sporadic spikes on a cardiac monitor, and that’s just how it feels to paddle it. It seesaws you back and forth between peace and adrenaline. My buddy Dylan Brown gives me a quick lesson on paddle techniques—I’d paddled SUP on ocean a few times but never on whitewater—and as I start to get the rhythm, a sleeper beneath the current catches my board and I fly off. Fortunately, I land on two feet, and rush to grab my SUP before it ditches me.

ix weeks earlier, Dylan—a talented videographer-photographer—asked if I’d join him on what would be the desert river’s first-ever recorded SUP run. It was to be a trip down the entire length of the Escalante, 100 miles in five days. Typically, paddlers take about 10 days to steer blowup kayaks or packrafts at a leisurely pace down the Escalante’s brown vein to Coyote Gulch—around mile 75—and then exit via the Crack-in-the-Wall slot: a 1,000foot ascent, which features a 600-foot sand slope and a narrow passage that requires a 30-foot rope to pull up gear. The closest trailhead, Fortymile Ridge, is then a five-mile trek out. We would go farther. This area is in Dylan’s blood. He grew up exploring the desert canyons that surround the town of Escalante, which his parents have called home for more than two decades. In 2011, he paddled the Escalante River in inflatable kayaks with his dad and four friends. Afterward, he wondered what the experience would be like on an inflatable SUP: a versatile vehicle with options to sit or stand for a higher vantage point, a lean belly that reduced drag potential in low water levels, plus an advantageous surface area for strapping on gear. Stand-up paddleboarding in the U.S. has experienced more growth than any other outdoor activity since 2012, according to the Outdoor Industry Association. No surprise, the largest percentage of stand-up paddleboarders live in the country’s Pacific and South Atlantic regions. But recently, multi-day whitewater adventurers have been ticking off SUP objectives. Last year saw several other first SUP descents besides ours, including SOL Founder Johnny Lombino’s dance down the famed class IV Snaggletooth Rapid on Colorado’s Dolores River. And Paul Clark and Torrey Piatt made an inaugural swoop of the Upper and Middle Owyhee River in Idaho and Oregon. For our SUP expedition, we planned to move fast, so we only packed the essentials. The trickiest part was timing our trip with the runoff. Each spring, snowmelt from the Aquarius Plateau pours eastward into the head of the Escalante. If winter’s precipitation is insubstantial, the runoff loses power and the overall window to paddle grows even narrower. If a crazy storm hits, the snowmelt refreezes and the flow nozzle shuts off. That was the case for us. Our initial send date was April 23, but a series of spring squalls blew in off the Pacific that blanketed the West in snow, and delayed the river flow. So we postponed. We wanted to catch at least a few days of consistent warm weather that would maintain the flow. If we waited too long, we risked losing our window to run the river altogether. The erratic weather could also get worse, and we’d end up paddling with icy rain and flash floods the entire time. We committed to drop the Escalante on May 12, three weeks later. Prior to push off, the BLM recommended at least 50 cubic feet per second

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(CFS). The only gauging station for the Escalante lies upstream from our put-in and it read an unpromising flow of eight CFS, a few days before we launched. Between the gauge and the bridge, however, three considerable tributaries boost the current. Then, six miles downstream from Highway 12, one of the most significant tributaries, Boulder Creek, feeds in. We reckoned there’d be enough water, eventually. Undaunted by the need to make a close slither in the tunnel of Russian olives above the river’s vibrant kaleidoscope of rocks at the put in, we took the chance.

hen we finally do reach Boulder Creek, hoots and hollers erupt in celebration. The flow sure does kick up here, as does the size of the rocks in the stream. I start to get the rhythm of steering my boat around boulders, debris and ripples in the water, which are all mellow precursors to the challenges upstream: mostly Class III rapids with quick turns, boulder jams and a few portages. Some dicey sections can even surge to Class IV+, a challenge—or, for some, impossible—on a SUP. Just before sunset, we reach an immaculate cove of white sand. We pull our boats to the welcome camp and light a fire beneath the clear sky. Living in Denver, I’ve become acclimated to the inevitable veil of smog and light pollution that drowns out the stars. It always amazes me how I forget this view, this giant black abyss with a overwhelming design of white pinpoints. The more my eyes adjust, the more I see. In the crisp morning air, we push off. A maze of unique rock formations—gigantic fins, tall pinnacles, crescent alcoves and narrow slot canyons—unfolds in front of us. The canyon walls tell geologic stories: They are 150-million-year-old petrified sand dunes coated with vertical streaks of a dark indigo varnish. As we paddle into each bend, I feel a beat of excitement for what we might find around the next corner. Dipping my paddle from side to side of the SUP, I think about the humans who first discovered this place. Ancient people lived and survived in these canyons for tens of thousands of years. In modern times, geographer Almon Harris Thompson and nine men set out on horseback from the Mormon settlement of Kanab in 1872 to find a cached vessel in this desert—they discovered the Escalante instead. It was the last uncharted river in the U.S. Mapping the complex hoodoos, minarets and canyon

FULL FLOW

GOD'S EYE

THE AUTHOR ENJOYS SLACK WATER AFTER A TIGHT SQUEEZE WITH LOW FLOWS ON THE UNPREDICTABLE RIVER.

THE ESCALANTE AND ITS VAST MYSTERIES WERE THE LAST RIVER MILES TO BE CHARTED IN THE UNITED STATES.

photo by Dylan Brown

losing such a massive amount of precious space and legacy. My stomach tightens. Once a pure place is deemed permissible for commodity and altered it never comes back. I think about the construction of Glen Canyon Dam—natural arches, petroglyphs, secret side canyons and even wildlife buried alive, beneath the water. Those raw treasures took hundreds of thousands—and in some cases millions—of years to form. They carried human heritage, and they reinvigorated the spirit of their witnesses. I also reflect on the decade-long legal battle to prevent development in the box canyon where I was raised. Telluridans and countrywide donors eventually secured the Valley Floor’s preservation: A 570-acre, timeless win. There is hope.

arms that burrow up to 6,000-feet deep took six years to complete. In 1996, President Bill Clinton designated Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (GSENM), much to the chagrin of today’s local politicians who are seeking to not just get rid of it, but most federal lands in Utah. At the time, oil and coalmining companies vied for the land, conservationists sought its protection and recreationalists and ranchers wanted the space to remain unrestricted. ear our halfway mark, the canyon tightens. The proclamation that created the 1.9-millionThe walls on either side soar, doubling to acre monument—delivered in a ceremony at the 1,000 feet over our heads. The horseshoe South Rim of the Grand Canyon—came as a bends become unbelievably wide—some a half-mile complete surprise. While it was welcome news long. My racing mind slows as I consider the time to conservationists, it incensed Utah legislators and scale of this ancient, grandiose gorge. This and many locals who sent their children to school personal shift has taken days, but I’ve fallen into a wearing black armbands in cadence with the water. A protest to what they saw as fundamental need to live ON A MAP, THE RIVER’S SILHOUETTE federal overreach. and survive in the moment RESEMBLES A SERIES OF SPORADIC The monument is allows my psyche a reprieve SPIKES ON A CARDIAC MONITOR, AND more than its boundaries, from my own anxious THAT’S JUST HOW IT FEELS TO PADDLE however. The ecosystem narratives and 21st century IT. IT SEESAWS YOU BACK AND FORTH that encircles GSENM— chaos. The gradual growth BETWEEN PEACE AND ADRENALINE. including Capitol Reef and of the ravine dwarfs me Bryce Canyon national more than physically. I stare parks, Dixie National Forest, Paria Canyonup in complete awe, reminded of how small I am and Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness and Glen Canyon how short my time on this planet will be. National Recreation Area—creates a vast, rare A few days after the trip is over, I learn contiguous area that’s crucial for migration, something that goes beyond logical reason. evolutionary potential and the preservation of Fifty-four years ago, a group of pioneers—my 225-million-year-old geological wonders. The grandparents, eight of their friends, an unofficial total acreage of this precious place is more than 5.5 guide and several packhorses—hiked for 100 million acres. The monument and surrounding area miles along Escalante canyon’s riverbed and into are also becoming more popular as a recreation the now-dam-flooded Glen Canyon, the beauty of destination. Four years after it was created, Grand which rivaled the Grand Canyon. The sandstone Staircase-Escalante’s number of annual visitors walls loomed at least 2,000 feet above them. “It was expanded by 35 percent over the next 13 years— called the crookedest river in the world—it was until 2014, which saw a 16-percent spike in visitation rugged and pristine with no trail,” Granny reflected in a single year. GSENM’s tally of recreationalists out loud, as she and Pa clicked through more than has continued to grow, and it reached its highest two hundred of their original slides with me. “The count of 930,000 people in 2016. further we got into the canyon, the higher the walls Despite that value both to natural and human went. It was a real adventure.” worlds, the monument is in danger. It’s in the I think back to the trip, to a moment when, crosshairs of an executive order from President unexpectedly, the river opened up and we found Trump demanding that Secretary of the Interior ourselves surrounded by velvety crimson and Ryan Zinke reassess and possibly cut back or rescind pearl dunes, enclosed by a solid fortress of bizarre monuments that cover 100,000 acres or more sandstone buttes. I felt overwhelmed with what and were created since 1996—the same year that my grandparents also felt in the remoteness of this Clinton created GSENM. The amount of land under canyon, what anyone can feel here: a distilled bliss speculation totals to more than 11.3 million acres, rooted to simply being alive, amazed and present. plus another 218 million acres of marine national It’s something you can only experience in a space monuments. As all of us—scientists, geologists, that is forever and completely wild. tribes, conservationists and recreationalists—face

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ELWAYVILLE

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ROCKY MOUNTAIN WAVES

No matter if it's sailing, canoeing, surfing or just camping by a lakeside, this landlocked state has an ongoing love affair with the water.

by PETER KRAY

come from a family of sailors. My great grandfather, “Skipper,” spent half of his 101 years on the water. His brothers, John and George Barnes, helped launch the Lightning Class, one of the most popular lines of racing sailboats, with two other brothers, Rod and Olin Stephens, on the Finger Lakes of upstate New York. Here in Colorado, my father’s sailboat obsession moved on from Lasers to Hobie Cats to a San Juan 24 and finally an Olson 25, which he raced everywhere from Cherry Creek Reservoir to Dillon Reservoir to Grand Lake. My favorite memory of those sailing years involves a race at Nebraska’s Lake McConaughy, where I stood on the great sandy beach and watched a Hobie 18 tow a water skier in the raging gusts. Despite the heritage and those days riding the wind across the water, sailing was never really my thing. Somehow it made me feel claustrophobic, out in the middle of nowhere, lashed to a tiny craft. I much preferred paddling in a canoe, which I learned to do on one of the oversized ponds Denver natives call a lake in Washington Park. Lake canoeing seemed more autonomous than sailing—heading off in any direction you wanted and doing all the work yourself. In my personal highlight reel, two separate two-week canoe trips in Canada remain my favorite family epics. We cruised across giant glinting waterways, camped on deserted islands, cooked fresh fish over an open fire and dreamed for days of finding a remote trading post where we could buy a cold six-pack of Coke.

MOSQUITOES, SURFERS AND AN UNCHECKED BOX

We took the first Canada trip with another family—and four canoes, two perpetually wet dogs, frog-catching contests, the occasional leech, and the best S’mores you could ever hope for. On the second trip, it was just our family, and my brother’s best friend, Joe Massanet. I think it was my father’s idea to invite Joe, partly because he was such a friendly person, but more so because he was the biggest kid in the neighborhood, and Dad knew he’d need some help portaging the canoes from lake to lake. I remember after one long haul how mosquito bites welted both their backs. Along with the leeches, the mosquitoes heaped on our worst traumas. You don’t get mosquitoes like you do on those Canadian waterways here Illustration by Kevin Howdeshell / THEBRAVEUNION.COM

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in Colorado. The gigantic, swarming fearless bloodsuckers could eat through tents. While canoeing came naturally, surfing is another matter. Other than the frozen white waves we carve all winter, Coloradans don’t grow up learning how to surf. Learning to ride waves remains one of the few unchecked boxes on my bucket list. Actually, I don’t have a bucket list, but riding a wave toward a sunlit shore is high on my list of priorities in life. Without waves, and landlocked like we are, I’ve settled for stand-up paddleboarding instead.

COLORADO SURF CULTURE

The first time I stood on a paddleboard and headed out for the middle of a lake, I immediately thought, I might not come back. There’s a ease, beauty, and independence of adventure that I’ve not found anywhere else but on a SUP. It’s still so new to me that I can only describe it in terms of anticipation, and what committing to it might mean for my life. Such as how it might bring me closer to my pup. Last November, we picked up a new four-legged

friend, Rose, from a breeder in Lakewood. A black Labrador from very large parents, she already weighs 60 pounds at just seven months. And she likes to get every inch of her beautiful bulk very, very wet. One of her favorite hobbies is trying to jump into the shower with my wife, where the dog gets so relaxed that she often falls asleep sitting up. When it rains, she likes to stand under the gutters where the water streams off the roof. To help her beat the hot days of summer, I’m planning on getting a new inflatable SUP, and maybe even a truck. Together, we’ll camp out on the weekends beside the same lakes were my parents sailed, slowly dipping our way from shore to shore with the great gray and black mountains looming above us, as if we were paddling from peak to peak. A man, his dog, and his beautiful wife skimming across the water—I think Dad would like that. —ELEVATION OUTDOORS EDITOR-AT-LARGE PETER KRAY IS THE AUTHOR OF THE GOD OF SKIING. THE BOOK HAS BEEN CALLED “THE GREATEST SKI NOVEL OF ALL TIME.” DON’T BELIEVE THE HYPE? YOU CAN BUY IT HERE: BIT.LY/GODOFSKIING

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