Elevation Outdoors June 2018 by Summit Publishing

OUTDOOR INCLUSIVIT Y | THE WEST’S BEST RIVER TRIP | A DOG’S LIFE JUNE 2018

FREE!

E L E V AT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

immersion

FLY FISH, HIKE, CAR CAMP, PADDLE, RUN, ZIP LINE AND EMBRACE THE SEASON

WOMEN WHO FISH

MADDIE BRENNEMAN LEADS A SPORT FULL OF FRESH FACES VAT I ON

TDOOR

PEAK GEAR: THE BEST SWAG FOR ADVENTURE

5 0 Ye a r s o f W i l d and Scenic Rivers

COME OUT AND PLAY. YOUR COLORADO SUMMER IS CALLING. Take advantage of what Copper has to offer this summer. June 9-10: Colorado Days June 17: Free Summer Concert with Blood Sweat & Tears

July 14: Under Armour Trail Run and Triple Bypass July 20-22: Courage Classic

June 22-24: Attack of the Big Beers Festival

July 28-29: Mac & Cheese Fest

June 23-24: Copper Mountain Film Festival

August 10: Ragnar Relay

June 27-29: Fjällräven Classic June 30: Free Summer Concert with Jefferson Starship

August 4: Copper Triangle August 10-12: Guitar Town August 17-19: Copper Crush Wine Fest August 24-25: Cider Circus

July 1: Free Summer Concert with The Magpie Salute

September 1-2: Copper Country

July 6-8: Copper Mountain Music Fest

September 15: Free Summer Concert

September 8-9: Colorado Days

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COPPERCOLORADO.COM

INDUSTRY LEADING

DEMO PROGRAM The largest selection of dirt and fat bike demos on the Front Range

A WOMAN'S PLACE MEET FOUR COLORADO FEMMES WHO ARE REDEFINING FLY FISHING. SEE PAGE 22.

rs Eaciohd u o H 4 2 | s e ik B 4 per Over a six week

photo courtesy MADDIE BRENNEMAN

CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS 7 EDITOR’S LETTER

722 Washington Avenue Golden CO 80401 303-278-6545

Inclusivity and the story of how Jamie Logan finally found happiness.

8 QUICK HITS

The best camp spots for SUP adventures, hike Ute Mountain, hit the zip lines at Vail and Breckenridge, slot-canyon photography, cool shades and more...

13 FLASHPOINT

2018 marks the 50th anniversary of the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. Here’s what that means for the future. Plus, Colorado’s Cache la Poudre.

17 HOT SPOT

©Icebreaker Alex Strohl

OVER 40 TENT MODELS TO CHECK OUT!

JUNE 2018 21 STRAIGHT TALK

Teresa Baker is on a mission to save national parks through diversity.

Expert tips—from what to cook to where to go.

43 HEAR THIS

36 THE 2018 SUMMER PEAK GEAR AWARDS

44 THE ROAD

41 TRAIL RUNNERS

Lisa Siciliano still shoots This is the stuff our staff black-and-white art on film. can’t live without!

How a backpacker learned to re-see the woods by learning how to bow hunt.

46 ELWAYVILLE

The shoes that best fit your individual running style.

ON THE COVER

Try to live like your dog.

FEATURES 22 MENDING THE GENDER LINE

Whether you seek a day hike or to unplug for a week, we have you covered in our guide to the Continental Divide Trail.

Recent research shows that there’s a big disparity between the number of men and women who fish. These four women are going to change that.

19 NUMEROLOGY

27 CATARACT CANYON

We present all the figures when it comes to the Centennial State's trails.

28 CAR CAMPING 101

Take a wild ride down one of the West’s best rivers.

You may recognize Maddie Brenneman from Instagram, where she has become a role model for the many women who love the sport of fly fishing as well as those who want to give it a try. We cast with her on the Fraser. by Liam Doran / liamdoranphotography .com

LYONS GOES WILD | NATIVES OUTDOORS | CLASSIC RIVER TRIPS MAY 2018

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E L E V AT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

THE 2018 MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL GUIDE

FREE TIBET | Tea with a lea d in g sch o la r o n T ib eta n resista n ce

IMMIGRANTS AT HOME IN THE WILD FIN DIN G FAM ILY IN CHICAGO BASIN

WESTERN MOUNTAINEERING

BENTGATE MOUNTAINEERING 1313 WASHINGTON AVE, GOLDEN CO 80401 303.271.9382 4

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WANT MORE? CATCH UP ON PAST ISSUES, YOUR FAVORITE BLOGGERS AND DAILY ONLINE CONTENT AT ELEVATIONOUTDOORS.COM

THE BEST MUSIC, SPORTS, LIBATIONS, FILM, FOOD, YOGA, WATER AND ART HAPPENINGS IN THE ROCKIES

HYDRATION, TRANSFORMED

The great outdoors just got greater. The Seeker™ is HydraPak’s ultra-light, durable water storage system for camping, backpacking, you name it. It packs down to the size of a fist, attaches to your pack or hangs from a tree. You can freeze it to use as an ice pack or fill it with hot water to keep you warm. Katadyn® BeFree™ filtration compatible.

Find one at a dealer near you hydrapak.com

CO N T R I B U TO R S

E DI TOR-I N -CHI E F

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

doug@elevationoutdoors.com PRE SI DE N T

BLAKE DEMASO

blake@elevationoutdoors.com PUBLI SHE R

ELIZABETH O’CONNELL

elizabeth@elevationoutdoors.com ART DI RE CTOR

LAUREN WORTH

lauren@elevationoutdoors.com EDITORIAL + PRODUCTION M AN AG I N G E DI TOR

CAMERON MARTINDELL

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WHAT IS THE ONE THING YOU HAVE TO BRING ALONG ON A RIVER TRIP? DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

A good, thick book— there’s nothing better than unplugging and reading on river time.

MEREDITH HARMON

A dry bag. Duh? And ENO speakers.

cameron@elevationoutdoors.com SE N I OR E DI TOR

CHRIS KASSAR

chris@elevationoutdoors.com COPY ASSASSI N

TRACY ROSS

E DI TOR-AT-LARG E

PETER KRAY

ASSOCI AT E CRE AT I VE DI RE CTOR

MEGAN JORDAN

megan@elevationoutdoors.com CON T RI BUT I N G E DI TORS

AARON BIBLE, ADAM CHASE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, SONYA LOONEY, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN CON T RI BUT I N G WRI T E RS

DEVON BALET, JOE CARBERRY, JENN FIELDS, GARETT GRAUBINS, PATTY MALESH, BRIAN METZLER, HEATHER RIDGE, RYAN STUART, STEPHANIE VU, SIDNI WEST, ZACH WHITE, EMILY WOLFE, MELANIE WONG

JULY 6-8, 2018

ADMISSION IS FREE!

Tons of floaties and an empty bag of pride.

TYRA SUTAK

My Lifeproof Aquaphonics AQ9 speaker. It’s small, has a 16-hour battery life, comes with a built-in carabiner and it’s submergible.

HEATHER RIDGE My favorite foam beer koozie! It’s.sort of like a PFD for beer.

AARON BIBLE

MARTHA EVANS

Back in the day, I would have said tequila, but now it's my ukulele.

ACCOUN T E XE CUT I VE

STEPHANIE VU

ADVERTISING + BUSINESS SE N I OR ACCOUN T E XE CUT I VE

martha@elevationoutdoors.com

Nothing quite compares to a music festival in the heart of the Rocky Mountains. The 4th annual Copper Mountain Music Fest features bluegrass and Americana artists from around the country.

CONOR SEDMAK

conor@elevationoutdoors.com BUSI N E SS M AN AG E R

MELISSA GESSLER

melissa@elevationoutdoors.com CI RCULAT I ON M AN AG E R

KAITY VANCE

kvance@elevationoutdoors.com DIGITAL MEDIA

My MP3 player (in a dry bag). I love listening to music during downtime, and the songs I listen to during a trip become ingrained with those memories.

MELANIE WONG A good river dog.

ON LI N E DI RE CTOR

CRAIG SNODGRASS

craig@elevationoutdoors.com

Visit coppercolorado.com for a complete lisitng of our summer events.

DI G I TAL M AN AG E R

TYRA SUTAK

tyra@elevationoutdoors.com

ELEVATIONOUTDOORS.COM 2510 47th Street Unit 209 Boulder, Colorado 80301 (303) 449-1560 P U B L I S H E D BY

TRACY ROSS

The Paco pad my sweetie bought me for a San Juan trip when I was pregnant with our now six-year-old and a lightweight tent—or just the fly for sleeping on our boat.

PETER KRAY

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SUMMIT

PUBLISHING

I take a Moleskine notebook wherever I go. In this case, Ziplocked.

E D I TO R ' S L E T T E R

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INCLUSIVE OUTDOORS To make the outdoors, and the world, a better place we need to make a better effort to understand what we all have in common and how powerful it can be to listen. by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

e at Elevation Outdoors magazine were lucky enough to be a part of the first edition of Rare Air Talks (dispatchradio.com/category/rare-airtalks) here in Boulder last month. The brainchild of Dispatch Radio podcast hosts Russ Rizzo and Kelly McConnell, the live talk show plans to delve into the issues and politics that are shaping outdoor recreation and conservation. The Dispatch crew pulled no punches for the first show, focusing on diversity in the outdoors, a topic that after years of talk is finally seeing real progress. It seems that many of us in the outdoor space just do not understand how to talk about the idea of diversity, even after so much good effort. All too often, we turn it back around to be about us. It’s not about us. It’s about compassion and listening. It’s about shutting up and hearing other people’s stories. All too many people who should be listening tune out when it comes to these discussions or they think they already understand. Worst case, they get defensive. All this ends up getting us nowhere. That was not the case at Rare Air Talks. This was a night for understanding each other’s stories. It was a night that felt honest and welcome to everyone in attendance. Each speaker opened up and brought us in. The line up included Luis Benitez, the director of the Colorado

THE OUTDOORS IS OPEN LUIS BENITEZ, DIRECTOR OF THE COLORADO OUTDOOR RECREATION DEPARTMENT, SPEAKS AT RARE AIR TALKS.. photo courtesy RARE AIR TALKS

Department of Outdoor Recreation, who has guided Everest trips. He talked about growing up in St. Louis where he had to go by the name “Lou” because Luis was too hard to pronounce. Elyse Rylander of OutThere Adventures explained how her organization simply allows LGBTQ kids to not feel ostracized. EO writer and diversity advocate Sonya Pevzner explained how she was an immigrant, a refugee, even if you can’t tell it by looking at her. Kriste Peoples of the Black Women’s Alliance told a beautiful story about moving to Colorado, of loving the life here outside, and then feeling alone since there was no one else who looked like her on the trails. She said she found peace by being by herself in nature since the wild does not see or judge you by race, gender or any other human constraint, that we can all feel ourselves out there. But it was the main speaker who really put inclusivity into perspective. Jim Logan had a career as one of the most accomplished climbers on the planet, but it was only when she became Jamie Logan in her mid-60s that she felt a happiness that had eluded her as a man. This was her first time speaking in front of a group about her life now and she told how she was first afraid to tell other climbers and people she worked with about who she really was. She was surprised to learn that most of them were fine by it. They accepted her as her. And the audience at Rare Air Talks did the same. It was a beautiful feeling in that room, one of shared understanding. Let’s practice that same kind of real inclusivity out on the trail and crags. Just listen, understand, accept. The outdoors is open.

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QUICK HITS

THE PERFECT DAY TRIP

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FOUR SUPER CAMPGROUNDS

Need a quick escape? Ute Peak is an easy ramble just off of I-70. PART OF THE LIGHTLY TRAVELED WILLIAMS

Located right on the water (or just a few steps away), these Colorado campsites make the perfect base for a weekend full of stand-up paddle boarding and deep relaxation. 1) PEARL LAKE CAMPGROUND

Pearl Lake State Park, 26 miles north of Steamboat Springs The masses head to Steamboat Lake, but Pearl Lake is a diamond in the rough for SUPers, with several sites on the lower road to launch straight from your campsite. Located at the base of Hahn’s Peak, the views are amazing and the sites are reservable. While no inspection is needed for boats, be a good steward and make sure your SUP is clean and doesn’t have any hitchhiking invasive species. Pro Tip: Sites #31 and #32 are tucked into a nice little bay with a sandy shore. Book them early. 2) HAVILAND LAKE CAMPGROUND

San Juan National Forest, 18 miles north of Durango Small but lovely, Haviland Lake is your best chance at having the water all to yourself. Tall trees surround the quiet lake, which reflects impressive views of the surrounding Hermosa Cliffs. Watch ospreys dive for trout as you paddle around in these clear waters, perfect for beginning SUPers. Sites are private and well-shaded. Pro Tip: Several of the sites have shoreline access, but there’s also a day-use area with parking to the left just before entering the campground where you can launch and lunch.

peaceful 40 miles of shoreline you can access right from your campsite, which is located on a small peninsula on the eastern tip. The neighboring calm, shallow Shadow Mountain Lake connects to the livelier Grand Lake via a small waterway. There, you can paddle up to the docks for a quick ice cream or stroll around the historic boardwalks of town. Pro Tip: Many of the trees have been cleared due to beetle-kill, but this allows for direct access to shoreline and some fabulous views. Sites get packed in the summer months, but September is spectacular.

3) ARAPAHO BAY CAMPGROUND

4) RUBY MOUNTAIN CAMPGROUND

Arapaho National Recreation Area, Lake Granby Tucked into the back corner of Lake Granby, this campground gives you three different bodies of water to explore throughout the weekend. Start your day paddling around the

Arkansas Headwaters Recreation Area, 30 miles north of Salida If moving water is more your thing, Ruby Mountain Campground on the banks of the Arkansas River offers something for every level of paddler. Upriver, starting at the bridge in

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LAKEFRONT PROPERTY THE PERFECT CAMPGORUND IS A PLACE WHERE YOU CAN SPEND THE ENTIRE DAY. THAT MAXIM PROVES ESPECIALLY TRUE WHEN YOU CAMP ON A LAKE AND BRING YOUR SUP ALONG. SET UP THE TENT, READ A BOOK, AND THEN GET OUT AND PADDLE TO YOUR HEART’S CONTENT. photo by HEATHER RIDGE

Johnson Village, is the “Milk Run,” which is perfect for trying out new skills. Downriver from the campsites are plenty of expert-only sections to explore. Be sure to check flow conditions, as water moves fast in the spring and runs can be boney with exposed rocks when flows are low. Pro Tip: The campground has been recently remodeled and can fill up fast, but is reservable up to six months in advance. Be sure to bring in your own potable water, as none is available on-site. —Heather Ridge

Fork Mountains, a subgroup of the Front Range, 12,303-foot-high Ute Peak provides the perfect day target from Denver. These rolling summits frame the north side of I-70 on the west side of the Eisenhower/Johnson Tunnel before curling north. Despite easy access and maintained trails the Williams Fork peaks tend to be overlooked. A visit to Ute Peak is the perfect way to acquaint hikers to this semi-secret, but oh-soaccessible, destination. The trailhead is only about an hour and 20 minutes from downtown. The lot at the top of the pass has plenty of space to park—though don’t be surprised if yours is the only vehicle there. Once on the Ute Peak Trail, you meander through meadows and forests that feel more like Vermont than Colorado. Early June is a great time to explore the area, as most of the snow that can disguise the trail will have melted away and mountain wildflowers are beginning to bloom. The first 3.5 miles of the trail stays in the shady woods; expect the occasional downed beetle-kill tree. Right when it’s starting to feel repetitive, the trail breaks treeline to some of the most spectacular alpine tundra views in the state. Several subsummits roll along the way to Ute Peak, but it’s the majestic views of the jagged, foreboding Gore Range mountains that steal the show. Views of nearby Front Range and Tenmile Range Peaks are equally impressive. After lounging on the grassy summit knob, retrace your steps. DIRECTIONS: From I-70 take Exit 205, Silverthorne/Dillon, and travel north on HWY 9 for approximately 13 miles to the intersection with Ute Pass Road (CR 15). Climb Ute Pass Road 5.2 miles to the top of the pass where there is a large parking area on the right side of the road. The signed Ute Peak Trail starts to the south across an open grassy field. There are no fees to park or hike to Ute Peak. —James Dziezynski

GEAR WE LOVE

BOOKS

RHEOS EDDIES

BACKPACKING 101

Providing lots of visual pop and clarity thanks to polarized polycarbonate, these lightweight shades are mandatory for a sunintensive river trip. Don’t worry if they go in the drink—they float. $50 | RHEOSGEAR.COM

Keen to spend nights in the woods but unsure how to start? Backpacking expert Heather Rochfort gives you tips even an expert will appreciate, from how to plan meals to how to handle getting lost. $17 | SIMONANDSCHUSTER.COM

SLOT SHOTS

Ready to wow your Instagram fans? Head to this canyon. WHETHER YOU’RE AN AMATEUR OR

aspiring pro, there’s no better place to practice the fine art of nature photography than within the mesmerizing, rust-colored walls of Arizona’s famed slot canyons. In warm weather months, camera-toting tourists pack into guided tours of Antelope Canyon, located a short drive from Page, Arizona, where the weird walls and narrow spaces create endless options for artistic eyes. A guided tour arranged through one of the approved Navajo nation tour companies is required to explore these slots. Adventurous Antelope Canyon Photo Tours (AACPT) specializes in photours. Co-owned by celebrated photographer Lionel Bigthumb, AACPT offers small and private guided tours of Upper Antelope (which the Navajo calls Tsé bighánílíní, “the place where water runs through rocks”), as well as Owl, Rattlesnake, Mountain Sheep and three private slot canyons. The team both teaches the history of this popular outdoor destination and provides pro tips on how to better photograph the place. If you want a real treat, book one of the night tours. $151 to $283 per person. navajoantelopecanyon.com —Tyra Sutak

MAKER MARKET

HuntCrafted provides an online shop for handcrafted goods. Buying and selling handmade outdoor goods just got a little easier, thanks to the online marketplace HuntCrafted. Now in its second year, the site (which is modeled after Etsy) features a variety of work from hundreds of makers selling everything from duck calls to fishing lures to nature-themed artwork and jewelry. For HuntCrafted co-founder and CEO Miles Sims, launching the site was more than just an attempt to combine his background in software and love of the outdoors— it was about supporting the artists. “Our main focus is trying to showcase the guys and gals who are making this stuff, and the story behind why they’re doing,” he explains. Sellers on the marketplace can list items for free. In return, HuntCrafted collects a 10-percent flat commission fee from each sale. Sims and his team also offer additional support to help sellers best showcase their creations, as well as a platform for sellers to publish blog posts, wild game recipes, tips and more. While hunting and fishing items are the most popular on the site at this time, Sims says to keep an eye out for more camp-specific offerings. huntcrafted.com —Tyra Sutak

LOCAL HEROES: CRAIG AND KATHY COPELAND

How a Canadian couple share the love in southern Utah’s canyon country. Craig and Kathy Copeland have hiked the equivalent of twice around the Earth researching a dozen guides and books about hiking. They’ve crunched on gravel on some of the best known hiking destinations on the planet, from Nepal to New Zealand, the Alps to the Canadian Rockies. They could have started a hiking guiding company anywhere in the world, but they chose the nearly trailless high desert of Grand StaircaseEscalante National Monument, in southern Utah. “On 90 percent of our hikes we’re pretty much guaranteed not to see another person,” Craig says. “It’s rare, rare to be able to hike so many places and not see any sign of other humans at all. And the scenery is unique in the world. It’s world class.” They discovered the area around Boulder, Utah, while researching and writing Hiking from Here to WOW: Utah Canyon

Country. Once the book was complete they stayed on, further exploring the canyons, creeks and slick rock with Adam Harmon, a local. Together the three started Utah Slickrock Guides in 2017. It’s one of the only guiding companies with permits to operate in the area.“To hike very far, you need navigation skills and you need route finding experience,” says Craig. "We have knowledge of an area and the skills to explore it—something few people have.” Their trips range from easy to challenging, flat to fifth class scrambling. They spend hours walking in the water, navigating slot canyons or climbing high on slickrock massifs for views stretching from Bryce Canyon to Capitol Reef and all the way to Arizona.

PLAYING THE SLOT CANYONS THERE’S NO BETTER PLACE FOR A PHOTOGRAPHER TO HAVE A FIELD DAY.

VIRTUAL OUTDOOR RETAIL HUNTCRAFTED’S ONLINE MAKER MEDINA .

CANADIANS GONE WILD CANUCKS CRAIG AND KATHY COPELAND LEAD TRIPS IN SOUTHERN UTAH. photos courtesy AACPT (top left), HUNTCRAFTED (top right), UTAH SLICKROCK GUIDES (bottom)

“The Escalante River was one of the last rivers in the U.S. to be named,” says Craig. “It gives you an idea just how isolated and little visited the area is. The solitude and serenity of the place is intrinsic to its beauty. It’s a big reason why we’re here.” utahslickrockguides.com —Ryan Stuart

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BRECKENRIDGE AND VAIL

family—or partner up with a group of friends. Summer packages run about $285 per night for a one-bedroom condo. Or head out to Piney River Ranch (pineyriverranch.com), tucked up in the Gore Range, where you can wake up on Piney Lake and SUP before breakfast (opens June 21).

These big ski resorts have embraced the summer, building massive fun-for-the-wholefamily adventure playgrounds alongside secluded trails.

PLAY EAT Lionshead Village purrs with a steady bustle of bikes, hikers and tourists enjoying sunshine and mountain breezes in summer. Stake out an outdoor table at Bart and Yeti’s (bartnyetis.com) where you can tuck into a hunking chili cheese burger and wash it down with a frosty Fat Tire on tap. For dose of maker cool head to The Craftsman (craftsmanvail.com) down the road in Edwards. Here, you can nosh on millennial comfort food (baby kale salad and fried chicken, anyone?) or just get intimate with the extensive whiskey list. Over in Breckenridge on-mountain, you can dig into sweet, messy barbeque at Peak 8’s Vista Haus (bit.ly/2s1XEp6), open for the first time in summer this year. The best place to kick back with a cold one down in town? Chill with a craft cocktail—we’re partial to the Juan Too Many, a combo of tequila, jalapenos and cucumber—at the RMU Tavern (rmuoutdoors.com), attached to Rocky Mountain Underground’s

retail shop where you can pick up a new pair of Zeal shades to make sipping that baby out on RMU’s patio that much cooler.

SLEEP Even if the resorts make for ideal day trips, spending the night makes for the ideal close-to-home mini-cation. The most engaging place to stay in Vail is the Vail Mountain Lodge (vailmountainlodge.com), which is

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ABOVE IT ALL THE NEW MOUNTAINTOP ADVENTURES PROGRAM AT BRECKENRIDGE RESORT FEATURES A ZIP COURSE AND ROPE BRIDGE. photo courtesy ANDREW MACGUIRE / VAIL RESORTS

attached to the Vail Athletic Club, where you can workout on our own, join in a yoga class, or sign up for lessons with a climbing coach on the club’s outstanding indoor wall. Breck’s One Ski Hill Place Condos (oneskihill.rockresorts.com) are an easy option to house the whole

Faced with the unpredictability of winter in the age of climate change, Colorado’s resorts have embraced warm-weather action: Resort-operated adventure-park thrills supplement miles of singletrack and high-mountain hikes, all accessed by the lift systems. The Epic Discovery extravaganza features packages that get kids and adults out on all the fun stuff. At Vail one $99 ticket covers all the fun— from the rollicking 3,400-foot Forest Flyer Mountain Coaster to the nervetesting Holy Cross Adventure Course to Marmot Mini Tubing. Plus kids ride the life for free. Breckenridge opened a new Mountaintop Adventures program, in addition to its 2,500-foot alpine coaster, up at its Alpine Camp on Peak 8. Scale the climbing wall, take on the ropes challenge course, or sign up for the guided Zip Line Expedition Tour that whisks you off on eight zip covering a mile between 10 towers and a includes a sphincterclenching 200-foot-long sky bridge walk. —Doug Schnitzspahn

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FLASHPOINT

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RUNNING WILD The Wild and Scenic Rivers Act turns 50 this year. It currently protects 208 waterways and 12,734 river miles in the U.S.—but it will need local onthe-ground support to keep working. by EMILY STIFLER WOLFE

hen snow melts from the southeast side of Montana’s highest mountain, 12,799-foot Granite Peak, this summer, it will course through a series of alpine lakes until it becomes East Rosebud Creek. Energized by the biggest snow year in the state since 1971, the water will crash into gneissic boulders and surge beneath towering rock walls before pausing in tiny Elk Lake and again in East Rosebud Lake. From there, it will funnel headlong into a three-mile frenzy of whitewater, and finally ease into the gentle riffles of the lower canyon. If all goes as planned, 20 miles of this magnificent creek may soon be protected under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. It would be the only U.S. waterway designated in 2018, the 50th anniversary of the landmark river legislation that, fittingly, was conceived in the state of Montana. Conservation nonprofits including American Rivers and the Greater Yellowstone Coalition have worked

with local homeowners to advocate for East Rosebud since 2009, when Bozeman-based Hydrodynamics Inc. proposed a hydroelectric dam there. After an outreach effort that included visits to Washington D.C., letter writing campaigns to state newspapers, and a film festival, the East Rosebud Wild and Scenic Rivers Act passed the U.S. Senate unanimously in December 2017. In April, it passed the House Natural Resources Committee, and it now awaits a vote by the full House, at which point it will go to the president’s desk. The Wild and Scenic Rivers Act keeps the rivers free flowing and clean, and preserves special values like scenic beauty, cultural significance, recreation and wilderness character. The act was the response to a flurry of dam building between the 1930s and 1960s, during which time most of the U.S.’s 80,000 dams were built. More specifically, after successfully fighting a dam proposal on Montana’s Middle Fork of the Flathead River in 1957, now-luminary grizzly bear researchers John and Frank Craighead began promoting an impassioned concept for a national system of protected rivers. “Rivers and their watersheds are inseparable, and to maintain wild areas, we must preserve the rivers that drain them,” John wrote, calling wild rivers a “species now close to extinction.” Over the next 10 years, 16 wild and scenic bills were introduced to Congress, but it wasn’t until 1968, following passage of the 1964 Wilderness Act, that President Lyndon B. Johnson signed the National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act into law. Much of its language came directly from the Craigheads’ writings. Today, the act protects 12,734 miles of 208 rivers in

FINDING FREEDOM 40 states and Puerto Rico. In Colorado, 76 miles of TUCKED DEEP IN IDAHO’S the Cache la Poudre River HIGH SAGE DESERT, THE JARBIDGE RIVER INCLUDES are designated Wild and 30 MILES PROTECTED AS Scenic (see sidebar), and WILD AND SCENIC. THE portions of Deep Creek NARROW CANYON IS and the Crystal River TECHNICAL WHITEWATER FUN RIDE IN HIGH WATER. have local support and are being considered for photo courtesy JOHN WEBSTER / RIVER NETWORK designation. Montana claims 368 miles of two rivers designated wild and scenic. No other river conservation law in the world rivals the act, as far as the comprehensive protections it offers, according to Scott Bosse, American Rivers Northern Rockies director. “If the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act hadn’t passed in 1968, I doubt we’d have any major free flowing rivers left in the Lower 48,” he says.

ocal support is integral to passage of a Wild and Scenic bill. In Montana, the grassroots Friends of East Rosebud included ranchers, kayakers, anglers, summer residents and others, and without them it wouldn’t have happened, Bosse says. Long term funding is also key, because these projects typically take about a decade to complete, if not longer. And there is work to be done. Less than one quarter of one percent of U.S. rivers are protected under the act, as compared to the 17 percent impounded by dams. Arid Western states—and Colorado, in particular, with its rapid growth and J U N E 2 01 8 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

There is work to be done. Less than one quarter of one percent of U.S. rivers are protected under the act, as compared to the 17 percent impounded by dams. Byzantine water rights laws—sometimes resist new Wild and Scenic designations because the protection can impede new water development. The act has its limitations, too. While designation safeguards a section of river, it doesn’t shield entire watersheds, says Katherine Baer of River Network, a hub for river conservation efforts. In one example, a proposal to reopen and expand historic open pit gold mines on the South Fork of Idaho’s Salmon River threatens the Wild and Scenic stretch of the Main Salmon below. Bosse and Baer also agree that climate change is one of the biggest threats to rivers today: Drought combined with population growth will likely lead to a jump in new dam proposals. Although there is only one river on the docket for protection this year, many others are being proposed, and Congress is currently considering a bill to study Florida’s Kissimmee River for possible future inclusion. American Rivers aims to use the act to protect 5,000 additional river miles, as well as one million acres of riverside land by 2020. The ultimate goal is to have at least two percent of our rivers designated, Bosse says. “Now is the time to identify the rivers we really cherish in their wild state and get them protected,” says Bosse. “One thing I always tell people is if you truly love something, then don’t take it for granted.”

WANT TO LEARN MORE? YOU CAN EXPLORE WILD & SCENIC RIVERS AND JOIN LOCAL GROUPS PROTECTING THEM AT RIVERNETWORK.ORG/GET-INVOLVED/MAPWHO-IS-PROTECTING-YOUR-WATER/ AND FIND 50TH ANNIVERSARY EVENTS AT BIT.LY/2RZCR5S.

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CACHE LA POUDRE GET OUT AND ENJOY COLORADO’S ONLY WILD AND SCENIC RIVER THIS SUMMER. When French trappers first came upon the Cache la Poudre River, it was a remote and rugged place— rushing dramatically through a narrow canyon, and eventually flowing into the plains, where native tribes named it for its swift current. Today, a 30mile stretch of the Poudre allows adventurers to step back in time and experience a river that is still unfettered by dams and untouched by development thanks to its designation as the only Wild and Scenic river in Colorado. This portion starts at the river’s headwaters in Rocky Mountain National Park and snakes into Roosevelt National Forest before splitting into the South Fork. The uppermost portions are still isolated, mountainous and accessible only on foot. Farther down, the river calls to hikers, fishermen, boaters, campers and climbers.

FISH

SPLASHDOWN SOLITUDE DESPITE THE CROWD ON THE BOAT, THE WILD AND SCENIC SECTION OF THE POUDRE ENJOYS STRICT QUOTAS, MEANING IT FEELS AS IF YOUR GROUP IS THE ONLY ONE OUT HERE.

The Poudre is a popular fly-fishing destination, home to a healthy population of brown, rainbow, cutthroat and brook trout. Standing in the clear water and staring up at the lovely copper-and-gray limestone and granite rock is a perfect way to spend a day. “The Poudre is one of the few untouched rivers that fly fishers can get on. It has a natural flow because it’s not affected by dams, and the conditions just ebb and flow with the seasons,” says guide Xander Elliott. Contact his employer, St. Peter’s Fly Fishing (stpetes.com) to book a trip and get in on the action.

photo courtesy A WANDERLUST ADVENTURE

sleep like you sleep at home - only better

back of a truck. friends floor. backcountry paradise. Lucky sunrise in Grand Junction, Colorado - Braden Gunem

PADDLE

Rafting companies are only allowed to take a set number of people on the protected river daily, so in doing so, you can escape the masses. “The steepwalled canyons on each side make the experience more dramatic. It’s a very exciting run, especially in high water,” says Pat Legel, owner of A Wanderlust Adventure (awanderlustadventure.com), a guide service that offers half-day raft trips, partially on the river’s wild portion, featuring Class III and IV rapids. While other rivers in Colorado may run low this summer due to poor snowpack, the Poudre is an exception, with levels expected to reach 90-95 percent of normal.

HIKE

Lace up your boots up for local favorite the Greyrock Trail (bit.ly/2rLky39), a seven-mile loop that starts at the edge of the Poudre and climbs more than 2,000 feet in elevation up to a wide panorama of the river gorge. Afterwards, stop for lunch at the riverside concert venue and restaurant The Mishawaka (themishawaka.com), or head into town.

RELAX

Some of Fort Collins’ craft beer success might come thanks to the clear, sweet water drawn straight from the Poudre. “We have the best tasting water here, and beer is about 95 percent water,” says Carol Cochran, who owns the bustling Horse & Dragon Brewing Company with her husband, Tim. “It’s readily apparent to most brewers and our customers that water is part of our industry’s success.” The river is so important to the industry that some 20 Fort Collins breweries formed a group, BreWater (brewater. com), to learn about river health and share water conservation practices. —Melanie Wong

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FIVE WAYS TO TAKE ON THE CDT

The Continental Divide Trail stretches 3,100 miles down the backbone of North America from Canada to Mexico, but you don’t have to do it all. Hike one of these sections through Colorado—based on your vacation time and motivation. by CHRIS KASSAR

1. THE DAY HIKE

Wolf Creek Pass Weminuche Wilderness Five- to 16-mile out-and-back This fun hike allows you walk the spine of the Rocky Mountains with minimal effort. From the Lobo Overlook at Wolf Creek Pass, the CDT meanders through high altitude forest and traverses rocky slopes in subalpine and alpine environs of the Weminuche Wilderness. You don’t have to hike far to reach big vistas that stretch to New Mexico, meadows bursting with showy wildflowers and a good chance to spy wildlife like elk and raptors. And, because there is no end goal or destination, you choose how far you walk, which means there’s ample time to enjoy the scenery and the vibrant colors at your feet. Stroll for about 2.5 miles to reach a verdant meadow, continue another eight miles to Archuleta Lake, or make it a multiday walk by pushing through for 60 miles to Silverton.

2. THE OVERNIGHTER

Tonahutu-North Inlet Loop Rocky Mountain National Park 25 miles Tucked away on Rocky Mountain National Park’s mellow west side, this challenging loop on the Tonahutu and North Inlet Trails delivers a RMNP sampler, including fields full of wildflowers, moose, elk and bighorn sheep, and sweeping views of both sides of the Divide. It’s possible to crank the whole thing out in one monster day, but far better to savor the trek with an overnight camp (or two). The route follows a rushing stream through lush forest, visits multiple impressive cascades, explores the blossomadorned tundra of the Continental Divide, and tops out at 12,324 on the wide expanse of Flattop Mountain. Must-stop highlights along the way include a visit to Big Meadows and multiple worthwhile side trips and extensions, such as a six-mile round-trip journey to Nokoni and Nanita lakes (be sure pack your fly rod and get a park license).

3. THE LONG WEEKEND

Weminuche Pass Weminuche Wilderness 22.2-mile out-and-back Escape the masses on this rugged and remote excursion that climbs gently through conifer forest, moves up a wooded canyon and then follows Weminuche Creek to top out on 10,650-foot Weminuche Pass, 5.1 miles and 1,200 vertical feel from the trailhead. You can set up camp here or push further if you feel frisky. The next day, delve deeper into the wilderness by following the CDT up the

Rincon La Vaca. Breaking through treeline, you’ll revel in your first glimpses of the Rio Grande Pyramid—a sharp, towering 13,821-foot peak that stands out alone from the surrounding summits—and the Window, a large notch in the ridge that runs south from the Pyramid. There’s plenty of time to soak in the alpine meadows teeming with flowers and riparian corridors rife with wildlife-viewing prospects. Climb steadily from here to the pass itself. Then enjoy panoramas of the Pyramid, the East Ute Creek drainage and the Needle Mountains. The 22.2 mile out-and-back journey climbs a total of 4,045 vertical feet and culminates with a short off-trail detour to visit the Window. Bold explorers can add more oomph and elevation with a scramble up the Pyramid.

4. THE BIG TRIP

Buffalo Pass to North Lake Mount Zirkel Wilderness 42 miles round trip The home of 12,061-foot Big Agnes Mountain (the namesake of Steamboat’s famed gear brand) and 14 other peaks topping 12,000 feet, the Mount Zirkel Wilderness is one of Colorado’s five original wilderness areas, designated in 1964. This gem is often overlooked, though, since its peaks happen to fall short of Colorado’s much-sought-after fourteeners. Don’t let the numbers fool you: It’s just as stunning as spots with those technically higher peaks. Located just north of Steamboat Springs and starting at Buffalo Pass, this 21-mile segment of the CDT climbs through the Zirkels’ wild valleys, stopping by striking glaciated lakes filled with trout, enroute to the Continental Divide, where it skirts along the top of the range. (Note: It’s a 42-mile out-and-back from Buffalo Pass, or there are optional cut-off trails that can make it shorter one-way with a shuttle.) The trail runs just a few hundred feet from the gentle summit of 11,932-foot Lost Ranger Peak— which makes for a short, sweet side trip since it’s the highest peak along the CDT in the Mount Zirkel Wilderness. Just be cognizant of the weather: The ridge is exposed and storms form here in a hurry. Once you do get up high, this perfect backpacking route cruises along the Divide amid wildflower blooms and gnarled, stunted trees before descending to North Lake, an ideal basecamp

destination for relaxing a bit and exploring the area off-trail. Those looking for a shorter overnight or weekend option in the Zirkels can follow the CDT for three miles from Buffalo Pass before taking the Newcomb Trail for one mile to reach Round Mountain Lake.

5. UNPLUG

HIGHEST OF HIGHS THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE TRAIL RUNS STRAIGHT THROUGH THE HIGHEST REACHES OF ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK, GIVING AMPLE OPPORTUNITY FOR DAY HIKES OR EXTENDED BACKPAKCING TRIPS THAT WOW YOU WITH VIEWS LIKE THIS ONE, WHICH YOU JUST MIGHT SHARE WITH A HERD OF THE PARK’S BIGHORN SHEEP.

Cumbres Pass to Wolf photo by CHRIS KASSAR Creek Pass South San Juan Wilderness 70 miles (with shuttle) Need to get away from all the electronics for an extended period of time? Delve deep into the South San Juan Wilderness via this approximately 70-mile one-way car-shuttle section of the CDT. It delivers a thru-hike-like experience without making you commit to the months required to attempt the entire trail. It’s a full-on wilderness experience that gives you every aspect of the San Juans: You’ll hike into forested valleys, through flower-filled meadows and quiet alpine lakes, up steep traverses of mountains (like 13,150-foot Montezuma Peaks and 13,300-foot Summit Peak, the highest mountain in the eastern San Juans), and ascents up and over a number of high passes that often hold snow into summer. This big trip is worth every ounce of the effort it takes to tackle its daunting up and down, and it passes through unique terrain, even for the CDT, as it ambles over glorious tundra and broad open stretches dappled with alpine lakes with excellent fishing. Highlights include accessing the trailhead via the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad (rather than the Durango and Silverton train that’s popular for accessing Chicago Basin on the west side of the range), plenty of solitude, a plethora of big-mountain panoramas, and a visit to Blue Lake, perched at 11,400 feet. From here, the trail drops sharply into pine forest and open meadows before winding through the Wolf Creek Ski Area to finally bring you to your shuttle vehicle.

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Are you ready for your next

great adventure?

WILD, WILD WEST! The Road Team returns to Colorado this month! We’ve pointed the van west and we’re overjoyed to reunite with dry air, freezing snow-melt streams and familiar faces. It was a snowy spring this year, so we’ll face a long mud season—our fingers are crossed hoping that the solar shower will hold up, the van tires will grip on gravel roads and our gaiters will withstand post-holing through snow-covered, high-altitude trails.

JUNE 2018

ATV-friendly South Fork serves as Your base camp to adventure! Head into the San Juan Mountain Range for hiking, fishing, trail riding and skiing adventures. Del Norte, 15 miles downstream, has been called the gateway to the San Juans and to the rich history of the San Luis Valley. Here, you will find new mountain bike trails, a brew pub and a charming downtown. Monte Vista, yet another 15 miles downstream and centrally located, is near Wildlife Refuges and home of Stampede Rodeo, oldest Pro Rodeo in Colorado. Great food, lodging and golfing. Summer events in Rio Grande County include rodeos, car shows, Independence Day fireworks on July 3 and 4, Logger Days, Ski-Hi Stampede, Covered Wagon Days, Rhythms on the Rio Music Festival, 12 Hours of Penitence Mountain Bike Race and much more! Check our web site for a complete list of all of this summer’s festivals and events for current dates and more information!

Isn’t it time for your next great adventure? www.riograndecounty.com

2018 ROAD TOUR JUNE 2018 EVENTS

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JUN 30

R I D G WAY R I V E R F E S T I VA L

R I D G WAY, C O

G E A R W E ’ R E LO V I N G

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAPS ASPEN LOCAL TRAILS This map is perfect for finding trails while you are still kicking back in your AirBnB (or campsite). Just zero in on your location, and it provides copious local trail suggestions for all levels of hikers. All you need to do is finish your coffee, lace up your boots and choose your path. $12

OCEAN KAYAK MALIBU PEDAL Winner of an Elevation Outdoors Peak Gear award, this kayak leaves your hands free for high fives and fishing. Let your feet do the work (by powering the smooth pedal driver), while you chill in the adjustable chair and cast, snap off shots of wildlife or just take it all in. $2,200

SEA TO SUMMIT XL ULTRALIGHT HAMMOCK Ease back into the lightest hammock on the market. The monofilament fabric is breathable, moisture-wicking and so light you can see through it. It weighs just over seven ounces, but delivers all the benefits of a bulkier backcountry sleep system. $100

NITEIZE WRAPTOR SMARTPHONE BAR MOUNT With 360-degree rotation and a secure mount that stays stable even when you bomb down on bumpy trails, the Wraptor allows you to focus on the ride. $20

ou Wish y ere were h

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EST. 71

Photo credit for background, rock climber and Jeep: Tyler Garcia.

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TRAIL COUNTER Trails are lifeblood when it comes to how we get outside and play. Here are the numbers when it comes to the paths we trod and the people and organizations who build and maintain them. by JENN FIELDS

here’s no denying it: From Durango to Denver, Coloradans love their trails, and the evidence is everywhere, from the folks willing to put their backs into building and caring for them all the way up to the policy makers in the governor’s office. Here’s a closer look at what happens with trails when Coloradans decide to get some dirt under their nails.

The ranking for trail use, Colorado’s number one recreational activity, according to Colorado Parks and Wildlife’s 2017 fact sheet. It’s no wonder: Recreation participation studies indicate that 83 percent of Coloradans use trails. It adds up to more than 227 million activity days—the ones when you’re out there hiking, running, mountain biking, horseback riding or heading for your favorite fishing hole. cpw.state.co.us

2049

The year through which Colorado’s Lottery Division will fund outdoors projects throughout the state. Gov. John Hickenlooper signed the bill extending the lottery’s funding, which was scheduled to end in 2024, on May 1. That means 31 more years of lottery proceeds going to Colorado Parks and Wildlife, the Conservation Trust Fund and Great Outdoors Colorado, which has awarded grants for recreation and conservation projects in every county in Colorado. Since it started in 1992, Great Outdoors Colorado has restored 900 miles of trails in the state. Let’s see what they can do over the next three decades. goco.org

The number of miles of trail opened to mountain bikers in Rocky Mountain National Park this spring. The National Park Service has traditionally been reticent to allow two-wheeled activity on its footpaths, and at the vast majority of parks, bikes are only allowed on park roads (paved and unpaved). Some mountain bikers consider the two-mile stretch on the East Shore Trail a small but significant access win in one of the nation’s most popular outdoor destinations: Rocky Mountain was the fourth most visited national park in 2017, with more than 4.4 million visitors. nps.gov/romo

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The number of people per day that trail crews with Colorado Fourteeners Initiative documented on San Luis Peak, one of the least-climbed of the easier fourteeners in the state, according to Lloyd Athearn, executive director of the initiative. “Many days, the crew didn’t encounter people at all,” he says. The initiative will work on more-popular peaks again this summer, including Mount Elbert and Mount Columbia, where it has multi-year trail-improvement

projects. On Columbia, crews are addressing the technical challenges of building trails on high peaks, moving large rocks from elsewhere on the mountain to build trail through a scree field, Athearn says. On Elbert, the state’s highest and most-hiked fourteener, they’ll build switchbacks into a badly eroded section of trail this summer. How many people are hiking fourteeners, anyway? In 2016, the organization estimated 311,000 hiker days on fourteeners, and this summer it will post 22 counters on trails to track users. 14ers.org

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The number of feet of social trails the Access Fund helped close last year at climbing areas around the country. Closing trails isn’t usually a good thing, but in this case, it is. Social trails to crags often end up turning into a web of paths, causing erosion issues and plant degradation, says Ty Tyler of the Access Fund. “A lot of our trials are really short. You think of places on the Front Range of Colorado, like Boulder Canyon or Clear Creek Canyon—some of them are just 100 yards, but within that, you can have six social trails. We’re trying to eliminate that.” The Access Fund helps local climbing groups close social trails and “harden and solidify originals, so climbers can use them and so they are sustainable in the long-term,” he says. accessfund.org

The number of trail crews helping the Colorado Trail Foundation work on the 486-mile Colorado Trail this summer. About 700 people volunteer for trail work and other duties every year, says Bill Manning, executive director of the foundation. The foundation schedules crews in places where the trail needs some love based on scouting reports from the previous fall; this year, the foundation decided that more backcountry stretches of trail, far from where a crew can car camp, needed attention. “We

RUN TO THE HILLS THE 76,711-ACRE INDIAN PEAKS WILDERNESS AREA MAY BE CLOSE TO COLORADO'S MAJOR POPULATION CENTERS, BUT IT FEELS LIKE A WORLD AWAY WHEN YOU TAKE TO ITS OVER 133 MILES OF TRAILS THAT ACCESS SERENE ALPINE TARNS AND SCRAMBLES UP TO WINDSWEPT SUMMITS. photo by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

set up more backpack crews knowing it would be challenging to fill them,” says Manning. Indeed, it has been a challenge—they still need helpers on those crews. Sign up at coloradotrail.org.

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Estimated mileage of trails in Colorado being captured in the Colorado Trail Explorer, an interactive map that’s part of Gov. Hickenlooper’s Colorado the Beautiful initiative to connect more people with wild places. The map consolidates information from different agencies and gives a clearer picture of the trail options, for all user groups, near you. cpw.state.co.us/cts

2022

Latest date that a 60-plus-mile singletrack route from Marshall Mesa in Boulder, over Rollins Pass, and down to Winter Park will open. There’s still a lot of work to be done to begin the process, but planners are confident the necessary trail construction, which will add to many already existing segments, will start very soon. Partners on the project include Boulder County Parks and Open Space, the U.S. Forest Service, Eldorado Canyon State Park and City of Boulder Open Space, Mountain Parks Department as well as the Headwaters Trails Alliance and the Boulder Mountainbike Alliance. Called the Indian Peaks Traverse, the non-motorized route will be open to hikers, horses and mountain bikes. indianpeakstraverse.org J U N E 2 01 8 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

(AKA ETHAN ALEXANDER AND M.E. SORCI)

S T R A I G H T TA L K

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TERESA BAKER The California-based diversity advocate works to get more people out enjoying the wild—so that the wild will endure. by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

eresa Baker is on a mission. The Founder of the African American National Park Event, she wants to make sure that more people of color are visiting America’s national parks. More so, she wants to make sure that the parks are hiring more people of color. She feels that this reciprocation, across the outdoors and the outdoor industry, is how both public lands and conservation need to move forward so that they can be powerful national forces in a nation where people of color will make up more of the population in the near future. The event, which is open to everyone, everywhere, will take place June 9-10, 2018 (learn more about it on the African American Nature & Parks Experience. Facebook page). She took the time to talk to us in between trips to Yosemite, her favorite park. Why did you start this program? I started it in 2013 because I would be out in the national parks but I would not see a lot of other people like me. I would go hike parks in Utah and not see a Latino or an African American person and I would wonder what the hell was going on. But now, five years later, I am seeing a difference. I am seeing a lot more diversity out in our parks. That’s huge. I think the difference is that we have made a lot of effort to try to change things. I have done years of outreach and connecting with outdoor organizations to include more people in the outdoors. I hope it will continue to be that way and grow. How important is diversity for the future of the conservation movement and our wild places? A lot of people will say to me, “You are just stirring up a conversation that doesn’t need to be discussed. Why make race relevant in outdoors?” What they need to understand is that it’s not for me. It’s not really about race. It’s about the environment. If you claim to care about the environment you need to get more people to care. You need to get them learning about it and why parks are important so they can protect these places. The demographics of the U.S. are changing and if we if we don’t get people of color involved now who will be around to care for these spaces in the future? How did your relationship to the outdoors and the outdoor industry begin? I have always loved being in nature—hiking, camping, whatever. I just need to get out and allow myself to regroup and do away with all that happens in the city. It’s always been a place of solitude for me. And over the years my passion has grown. Learning about the story of the Buffalo Soldiers was huge for me. They were the first rangers in Yosemite. After I learned about them, I felt that I needed to find a way to get these stories out there. What is the biggest challenge in your work? Getting the word out. There are a lot of obstacles that communities of color face when it comes to getting out in national parks. They often just don’t feel welcome. That’s changing a bit. After hearing

photo by VICTORIA REEDER

over and over again that diversity is a problem in the parks, the parks are stepping up efforts around diversity. But we need more more rangers who are people of color. We need more events. We need more outdoor groups. Now, my big focus is on brands. They play such a huge role in outdoor industry and once they get on board the change will speed up. What brands are doing a good job with diversity? REI is kicking ass. They are really going beyond what everybody else is doing. I was just in Yosemite with Patagoina. I was invited to talk about what can you do as a brand to encourage other brands to step up. Patagonia is slowly coming around and should definitely be leading the way. How can we get more people of color in more everyday jobs in the outdoor industry? I recently reached out to OIA [Outdoor Industry Association] to discuss that very issue. They need to be involved. We have a $387-billion-plus dollar industry but it won’t stay that way without much room for people of color. You can’t sustain that force as the world changes. If you are not taking note and doing something about diversity in your company, you will have issues in 10 or 15 years. We

“This work is not easy. But to do nothing is not an option. We have to do something to bring about this change. Once the wheel starts moving, it will get easier.” will welcome you if you bring us into your customer base. If you push us away, we will start our own brands. You will miss out. Should brands be worried about tokenism? Should they only be trying to show people of color if it is deemed “authentic”? Authentic for me is the wrong word. Don’t be afraid! It’s going to feel awkward at first. That’s ok. You can’t just keep throwing the same images out on social media. You need to take a risk, even if it will feel awkward at first. Until this becomes normal it’s going to feel weird. Who cares if it’s not authentic? Just do it and eventually it will get easier. The fear is that you will make a mistake and people will jump all over you. Just try it. This work is not easy. But to do nothing is not an option. We have to do something to bring about this change. Once the wheel starts moving, it will get easier. So let’s be concerned with trying to do something. What gives you hope? There’s so much to be angry with right now. There are so many attacks against the environment. But the fact that I am seeing so many young people standing up and being willing to fight gives me a lot of comfort. J U N E 2 01 8 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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MENDING THE GENDER LINE Meet four women who are changing the face of fly fishing and inspiring more female anglers to get out on the water. by TYRA SUTAK

n 2017, the popular rod and tackle manufacturer Orvis launched the 50/50 On the Water program aimed at addressing inequality in the sport of fishing. The sudden spotlight called out stark gender disparities on the water. And rightfully so: According to a 2017 “Special Report on Fishing” released by the Recreational Boating and Fishing Foundation (RBFF) and the Outdoor Foundation, women make up only roughly 30 percent of the fly fishing community. That means there’s a long way to go to achieve equality in the sport. But for the following four Colorado women, bridging that gap is more than just a passion, it’s part of the job.

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on the South Platte River. But if you’re one of the 105,000 people that follow her on Instagram, you probably know Brenneman as a globe-trotting nomad sharing stories (and gorgeous photos by her In the 2017 report the RBFF revealed that nearly 34 photographer boyfriend Nick Kelley) of fly fishingpercent of males thought that a fishing participant inspired adventures all over the world. Social media would look like them, while just 19.3 percent has the potential to be a powerful of women thought the same. tool when it comes to changing Perceptions of what a typical angler gender perceptions in the sport looks like have always skewed since it widely distributes images towards men in the male-dominated of women out casting in beautful industry, but fly fishing guide locations and posing with big fish. and Instagram sensation Maddie Brenneman is one of a handful of Brenneman is changing all of that. female anglers who have amassed At 27 years-old, Brenneman huge social media followings in has already made quite a name for recent years, giving women a new herself in the sport of fly fishing. face to pair with the perception of For the past three years, the what the typical angler looks like. young guide has been heading “I never imagined that I could up the fishing program at the travel to fly fish somewhere and historic C Lazy U Ranch in Granby, make a living,” says Brenneman Colorado—a job she recently —MADDIE who has also partnered with big left to join the team of guides at brands including Yeti and Buff in the 520-acre North Fork Ranch BRENNEMAN MADDIE BRENNEMAN Fly-Fishing Guide, Instagram Influencer, Advocate

I make good casts and I make terrible casts, all in the same day. I catch big fish and I catch little fish, sometimes I don’t catch any fish at all, because that’s fly fishing.

her career. Although the spotlight has spawned pressure to be the best, Brenneman remains humble. “Some days I can figure the river out, and sometimes I can’t. I make good casts and I make terrible casts, all in the same day. I catch big fish and I catch little fish, sometimes I don’t catch any fish at all, because that’s fly fishing.” Her advice to fishing-curious women: “A rod is a rod, and an expensive rod means nothing if you don’t know how to fish with it. Avoid expensive gear to start and invest in a guide that can teach you.”

APRIL ARCHER CEO/Founder of SaraBella Fishing When April Archer first started building custom fly rods with ergonomically comfortable grips to fit a variety of hands, she ultimately had one goal in mind: “to help people get outdoors, get out on the water and have fun in the wilderness,” she says. But her efforts quickly rippled throughout her community

in the Denver Metro Area, and eventually trickled down to elementary schools in the state where she volunteers her time educating kids about the benefits of fishing. “Fly fishing is a wonderful way to teach kids and young girls about focus, having fun, science— including entomology and physics, how the water moves—and about weather patterns, fish species and the cycle of life,” says Archer, a mother of three young girls. Growing up in an outdoorsy family, Archer remembers always being drawn to fishing, with her passion for the sport and its intricacies beginning at a young age. “I got my first fishing pole when I was 18 months old,” she says. But like many women in the sport, Archer truly became an avid fly angler when she met her husband JT, who currently serves as the Chief Operations Officer at SaraBella, the brand that builds fly rods especially for women and girls that she founded in 2014. Today, she continues to volunteer her time to organizations like Colorado Women Flyfishers where she helps connect and educate women interested in the sport.

GREATER VISIBILITY GUIDE MADDIE BRENNEMAN (OPPOSITE PAGE) HAS AMASSED A DEDICATED INSTAGRAM FOLLOWING—EXPOSURE THAT HELPS TO DISTRIBUTE AND ENCOURAGE THE IDEA THAT FLY FISHING IS A SPORT FOR WOMEN. APRIL ARCHER (LEFT) FOUNDED SARABELLA TO BUILD RODS SPECIFICALLY FOR WOMEN AND GIRLS. DURANGO-BASED KARA ARMANO (TOP RIGHT) REPRESENTS BIG FLY ANGLING BRANDS INCLUDING REDINGTON AND SAGE. SHE ALSO ENCOURAGES FEMALE OUTDOOR PARTICIPATION THROUGH THE NATIONAL WILDLIFE FEDERATION'S ARTEMIS INITIATIVE. BECKY LEINWEBER (BOTTOM RIGHT) ENSURES THAT HER SHOP, ANGLER'S COVEY, PUTS WOMEN ON THE SALES FLOOR. photos by LIAM DORAN (opposite page), courtesy APRIL ARCHER/ SARABELLA (left), courtesy KARA ARMANO (top right), courtesy BECKY LEINWEBER (bottom right)

While Archer plans to continue to promote the kind of “smart, beautiful fishing” that her brand is known for, her larger goal is to help the landscape of the sport to change as her daughters grow older. “I hope they continue to get outside and to use fly fishing and outdoor sports as a way to stay healthy, enjoy life and gain perspective,” she says. “I also J U N E 2 01 8 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

hope that for them, everyone is just an ‘angler’ later in life.” Her favorite place to fish in Colorado: “I love fishing urban ponds and urban creeks, like South Boulder Creek through the city of Boulder, and Bear Creek just west of Morrison. The main clues to look for when finding a good urban fishing spot are bird life, insect activity and water flow or oxygen bubbles.” KARA ARMANO Freelance Communications Specialist Fly fishing runs in Kara Armano’s blood—but so does protecting the land we fish on. “Fishing was a way to spend time with my family,” says Durango-based Armano, who works as a freelance communications specialist with big name fishing brands like Redington and Sage. She touts her grandmother as being one of the biggest inspirations in her passion for the outdoors. “She always made it clear that it was important to take time out and absorb your surroundings. Just being observant and taking your time watching where you walk and seeing what there is out there. I think that always resonated with my exploratory nature,” Armano says. That connection to nature led Armano to a position co-leading advocacy and educational efforts at Artemis (artemis.nwf.org), a new initiative from the National Wildlife Federation that encourages female outdoor enthusiasts to be the complete “sportswoman.” Armano describes that moniker as “somebody who can go out there and see these wild places for what they are, and then come back to civilization and communicate what those places and that wildlife means to you.” Since she spends so much time on the front lines of the women’s gear revolution in the fly fishing industry, Armano is happy to see growth

camp that Leinweber really began to develop her skills and passion for the sport. The couple would eventually go on to build and grow Angler’s Covey in Colorado Springs, now a 6,500-square-foot mecca of an outdoor retailer shop, equipped with two casting ponds and employing 30 fly fishing guides, five of which are women. But that initial learning experience stayed with Leinweber and served as the inspiration for the inception of Pikes Peak Women Anglers (bit.ly/2L8T9AY), a welcoming community for female fly fishing enthusiasts of all ages and ability levels. “The camaraderie is a really big part for us,” she says, —APRIL emphasizing how important the social component of the group has been for members. “Some members have found lifelong friends.” On the retail floor of Angler’s Covey, customers will often find a female salesperson. “With my own journey before I became a fly-fisher, I would enter into a fly shop and only see men. I felt intimidated and I didn't feel very welcome,” says Leinweber. “We BECKY LEINWEBER made it a point that we didn’t want that to be the Co-Owner of Angler’s Covey, Founder case in our shop. When you see someone that you of Pikes Peak Women Anglers can identify with when you walk into the shop, it’s a little easier.” Like a lot of women, Becky Leinweber’s first fly Her favorite species to fish for out on the water? fishing experience was with her husband—and it “Small brookies. I think they are so beautiful and didn’t go well. “He took me out, and like so many they have the most gorgeous coloring. They’re found people teaching their significant other, it wasn’t an in the most out-of-the-way places and they’re always overly positive experience,” she says, adding that it eager because they haven’t seen a lot of flies.” wasn’t until the pair found a women’s-only fly fishing and development happening in female-specific fly fishing gear, but she encourages women and all consumers to support conservation efforts and protect public lands vis a vis smart gear choice. “It’s important to do a little research on the front-end of who that brand is,” she says. “What does [a certain company] support? What do they communicate through their marketing messages? What non-profits do they support through funding, time or donations, or whatever that may be? See if that aligns with your idealism in terms of what that conservation message should be.” Her one piece of must-have gear for fishing excursions: “I wear Redington Women’s Sonic ARCHER Pro Waders, which are awesome. They’re made from heavy-duty fabric, and they last. They have a feminine cut, but they’re not overly female. And they fit all kinds of different chest sizes.”

I hope my daughters continue to get outside and to use fly fishing and outdoor sports as a way to stay healthy, enjoy life and gain perspective. I also hope that for them, everyone is just an “angler” later in life.”

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BIG TRIPS

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SWIM THE DESERT If you plan one big river trip this summer, make it Utah’s Cataract Canyon, where you can cash in on whitewater, red rock and solitude without all the hassle of a bigger endeavor. by SIDNI WEST

woke up with sand in my mouth and eyes and pretty much everywhere else sand can get. My skin was pink, freckled and peeling, even though I spent every morning meticulously smearing sunscreen across my body. I had been floating through towering red walls and exposed rock falls for days. I was exhausted and having Instagram withdrawals from the lack of cell service I’d had all week. Little did I know, I was about to spend the afternoon swimming through two rapids. Despite all of this, Cataract Canyon was exactly what my soul needed. Everyone always talks about the Grand Canyon as if it’s the end-all, beall whitewater destination in the country, possibly the planet, but The Grand is not the only river trip, or even section of the Colorado River, with towering red rock walls, ancient ruins and Snap-worthy

waterfalls. Opting for Utah’s Cataract Canyon requires much less time and financial commitment than doing the Grand, without having to compromise on adventure, meaning you can have it all. Nestled in the heart of Canyonlands National Park, the canyon encompasses 112 miles of some of the best scenery, camping, hikes and rafting in the Southwest. At high water, it’s often touted as some of the biggest and most challenging whitewater in the country. It’s also one of the only canyons that remains in a state anywhere near as wild and powerful as when John Wesley Powell, the one-armed Civil War veteran who led a cartographic and scientific investigation of the Southwest, ran it way back it in 1869. If you plan to run it, check the conditions: The ever-changing flows can make the place a challenge, but that’s a big part of the draw. Cataract peaks at around 50,000 cfs on average, and occasionally approaches (and even exceeds) 100,000 cfs. (For perspective, the Grand Canyon typically flows

Cataract Canyon remains unimpeded by dams, leaving this particularly hazardous and isolated section of the Colorado River subject to extreme water level fluctuation.

between five and fifteen thousand, occasionally a bit higher). Basically, it’s so wild and free that you never know what you will get. During highwater, experienced paddlers delight in the huge waves and the famous big drops. In April, and then again from July through October, as the water levels go down, it becomes a great family-friendly run, with less intimidating rapids suitable for boaters with all levels of experience. But whether it's running at 50,000 cfs or 2,000 cfs, floating the river is the best way to access the backcountry of Canyonlands. Here, there are no crowds or #vanlifers and you can play in places that would otherwise require a day’s travel in a 4×4 rental jeep, just to get to the trailhead.

fter we put-in near Moab, the first few days of the trip consist of following the lazy river under landmarks like Deadhorse Point, Island in the Sky and the site of that infamous car scene at the end of Thelma and Louise. When I did the trip with OARS last summer, the guides brought inflatable kayaks and SUP boards so I was able to get out of the boat and feel as if I were actually contributing, rather than just riding along. The 100 miles between Moab and Lake Powell can be covered in a day if you take a speedboat through the rapids, but stretching it to a leisurely five days leaves time for hikes. Here, you have the chance to visit sites still held sacred for many indigenous communities (so show the proper respect), including ancient drawings left by natives 1,600 years ago. And the steep, loose hike up

SOAKING IT ALL IN THERE’S NOTHING CLOUDY ABOUT THE SOLITUDE AND THRILLS IN CATARACT CANYON. photo courtesy OARS

to the candy-colored spires of the Doll House, one of the most remote, hard-toget-to hikes in Utah, is worth the effort. The rapids complete the trip. At the point where the Colorado and the Green rivers converge, the Colorado doubles in size. When the canyon narrows beyond Spanish Bottom, the red walls draw closer and the river accelerates, churning up massive rapids—24 in 15 miles. Now the fun begins. This is what you traveled days to experience, so enjoy the ride and prepare to get soaked. I survived the swims and, yes, I would go back and do it all over again.

DO IT Contact OARS. The four- or six-day trip ($1,549-$1,649) starts out low-key from its put-in near Moab, but picks up momentum below the confluence with the Green River, where rapids can be Grand Canyon-size in spring high water but still thrilling Class IIIs or higher by mid-August. The price includes tasty meals and snacks, dry bags and coolers for your own beverages. Bonus: From the take-out point at Hite Marina, a short van ride delivers you to group of small airplanes for the flight back to Moab. Don’t forget to tip your guides. oars.com

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PRO TIPS

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CAR CAMPING 101 Follow these dos and don’ts of car camping to enjoy low-key, off-grid getaways under the summer stars. BY BRIAN METZLER

ar camping is the ultimate combination of getting motovated and being lazy. I's a fine art—so make sure you do it right.

DO: B R I N G A L L T H E C R E AT U R E C O M F O R T S A N D AC C O U T E R M E N T S This is especially important when it comes to relaxing and sleeping, two primary car camping activities. 1) Start with a big, roomy tent. Two of you? Bring a four-person. Got kids? Give ‘em their own dome. And smile, knowing their sticky, dirty pine-needle-tracking selves will have their own ant-infested zone. 2) Tenting ain’t fun when you’re on the ground, especially when your car can basically haul a bedroom with you. If you plan on car camping more than a couple of times every summer, splurge on an extra-thick, oversized inflatable sleeping pad. Boaters swear by the PVC-foam “Paco” pad (between $200 and $350); they’re just as good for the campground. And bring your “home pillow” and an extra case. Face mosquitos swatted in the middle of the night bleed. 3) Always bring a puffy. DON’T: S K I M P O N G O O D F O O D Car campers specialize in the moveable-feast mindset. You can pack plenty of essentials and luxuries in coolers and storage bins—hot

dogs, pre-made burgers, bread, fruit, vegetables, chips, dips and even nonfrozen dessert treats—and you can also get creative with what you cook. For breakfast, make an “egg in a hole” by toasting an open-faced buttered bagel in a frying pan and cooking an egg in the middle. For lunch, roast weenies on a stick, and serve with guac in an avocado. For dinner, let everyone create their own custom combination of meat, vegetables, cheese and sauce, and then wrap it in foil and cook over a campfire. Heat for a few minutes— then pour it into a bowl or fold it into a tortilla. These are my personal camp recipes, but don't be bound to them, use your imagination. Don't feel limited. But here's one piece of advice you will thank me for: After the meal, get out your industrial-size tub and the Costcosize detergent, and wash the groms by letting them do dishes. DO: L I G H T U P T H E N I G H T A F T E R DA R K A lot of the excitement of car camping happens after the sun goes down: adult beverages, camp games, s’mores and story-telling, to name a few. Without a doubt, everyone should have a good headlamp or flashlight at their disposal. Of course, the hands-free lights are key for managing all that activity after the sun sets, but here's a real pro tip: You can use the flashing modes on those lights to create a disco tent (just remember to respect your neighbors). DON’T: OV E R T H I N K YO U R D R I N K S Margaritas and daiquiris are fun for backyard gatherings, but glass breaks and spilled sour mix makes picnic tables sticky. Avoid the mess—and opportunistic black bear visits—by sticking to coolers of canned beer, boxed wine and simple cocktail fixin’s

E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S / J U N E 2 01 8

in plastic containers. And please do the toast the outdoors right by shunning the swill for local brews from communitycentered breweries like Upslope, and Odells. Don’t forget the ice! DO: B R I N G T H E R I G H T F O OT W E A R Hiking boots, trail shoes, river kicks and flip flops. Sounds like an entire shoe store, but you have a car: options. DON’T: L I G H T F I R E W O R K S U N D E R A N Y C I R C U M S TA N C E S We adult children love our explosives. But avoid at all cost the

COOLER THAN YOU BE LIKE THIS CAR-CAMPING COGNOSCENTI. photo by ROXY HARBITTER

urge to bring fireworks camping. A sparkler or bottle rocket in dry pine needles could ignite a forest fire that kills dozens. Colorado history is long on such blazes. Just check out journalist Heather Hansen’s new book Wildfire: On the Front Lines with Station 8 ($25; Mountaineers Books), which details our history with fires and why citizens, not Smokey Bear, need to work harder to prevent them.

FIVE FAVORITE CAR CAMPING SPOTS Kelly-Dahl Campground Rollinsville, CO Located on Highway 119 just west of Boulder and 25 miles northwest of Golden, Kelly-Dahl has a distinctive family atmosphere on weekend days all summer. You'll find mountain biking and trail running is available on the West Magnolia Loop and Rollins Pass Road. Chalk Lake Campground Nathrop, CO This tucked-away campground 13 miles southwest of Buena Vista sits just below the flanks of majestic 14,196foot Mt. Princeton. A short hike to the 30-foot Agnes Vaille Waterfall is just across the street, and Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort is just short drive or bike ride down the road. Twin Peaks Campground Twin Lakes, CO This smallish campground is located just west of the small settlement of Twin

Lakes. It’s an ideal base if you want to hike 14,439-foot Mt. Elbert, run or ride parts of the Colorado Trail or hike to the top of 12,600-foot Hope Pass. Ranger Lakes Campground Gould, CO This cozy site on the west side of Cameron Pass lies about 75 miles west of Fort Collins. Although the area is recovering from pine beetle infestation, there is a lot of lush, healthy forest land nearby and the Michigan River flows right through the camping area. Sugarloaf Campground Albany County, WY Avoid the Colorado crowds and head to Southern Wyoming. Thirty-five miles west of Laramie, Sugarloaf Campground lords over the heart of the Medicine Bow Mountains. Hike, trail run, fish and SUPing are in and around pristine Libby Lake and Lewis Lake. For a big challenge, tackle the moderate hike up 12,014-foot Medicine Bow peak. —B.M.

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WYOMING TRAVEL GUIDE

The Cowboy State may lie just a few hours north of Denver, but it feels like it’s a world away. That’s because Wyoming has held on to its authenticity. The state’s wide-open spaces still give you the feel of a West that you can explore without crowds of fun hogs and their Sprinter vans squeezing in on your space. Adventure here is rugged and real, sprinkled with towns and communities where you can wind it all down—and all of it easy to access. To that end, we suggest you point the grill north this summer and discover a new beautiful place to find yourself.

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SWEETWATER

ALL THE ADVENTURE YOU NEED.

lot is happening this summer in one of our favorite wild and wooly places: Southwest Wyoming’s Sweetwater County. Plan your visit around the following can’t-miss events.

home to the “World’s Largest Rodeo,” the National High School Finals Rodeo. It is the best way to check “attend a rodeo” off of your bucket list!

FLAMING GORGE DAYS | JUNE 21-23, 2018 “Southwest Wyoming’s Weekend of Fun” kicks off the first official week of summer outside of Green River. Activities run the gamut from basketball, volleyball, horseshoe and dodgeball tourneys to golf, a parade, a festival in the park and children’s entertainment.

WYOMING’S BIG SHOW | JULY 31-AUGUST 4, 2018 If attending a spectacular County Fair is on your list, then bump Wyoming’s Big Show up to the top. In addition to one of the most authentic and actionpacked rodeos around, visitors enjoy a concert series, family-friendly carnival rides, renowned food and dining options and 4H and livestock exhibits.

INTERNATIONAL DAY | JULY 14, 2018 Sweetwater County is known as the “Home of 56 Nationalities.” Every year, visitors and locals alike celebrate this diversity. Enjoy local, regional, and international entertainment, kids’ activities, exotic foods, imported beer and unique vendors at this annual event!

RIVER FESTIVAL & ART ON THE GREEN | AUGUST 17-18, 2018 The River Festival is one of Green River locals’ favorite events, complete with a microbrew garden, a Cajun shrimp boil, a dog show, live music, a car show and fireworks! Top it off with Art on the Green all weekend long.

NATIONAL HIGH SCHOOL FINALS RODEO | JULY 15-21, 2018 Sweetwater County is proud to be

Visit TourWyoming.com/events, and mark your calendar with some of the best Wyoming events of the summer!

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happening each day, even our outdoor adventure has to share top billing. Because, on your way to the National Parks, it’s not just about getting there. It’s about getting out.

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SHERIDAN

DISCOVER THE JEWEL OF WYOMING.

t’s no wonder Sheridan is dubbed “Wyoming’s Jewel.” Nestled on the edge of more than a million pristine acres of Bighorn National Forest with another 191,000 acres of wilderness, it’s an outdoor paradise that doesn’t get overrun with summer crowds. Sheridan’s still the real West and it lives up to its decidedly authentic cowboy history. Best of all, it’s got plenty of adventure to choose from: In-the-know outdoorists target the place for backpacking, mountain biking, fishing, rock climbing, trail running, backcountry skiing and legendary wildlife viewing. But this is no Disneyland… While you might have the occasional Yellowstone-like black bear or elk sighting, there are no gawking crowds (or fees) to be found. The real crown jewel here, the renowned Cloud Peak Wilderness Area, named for nearby 13,167-foot Cloud Peak, preserves more than 27 miles of dramatic rock faces, innumerable peaks and jagged summits along the spine of the Bighorn Mountain Range—a worthy

prize for alpinists who flock here from around the world. What’s more, the range’s last remaining glacier can still be seen in a recessed cirque on the east side of Cloud Peak. And many of the higher peaks remain snow covered until mid-summer each year. Once the snow melts, however, it’s time to bust out the bikes and the trail running shoes, as Sheridan plays host to some of the most arduous and infamous trail races in the country: the Bighorn Mountain Trail Run (June 15, bighorntrailrun.com) and the Dead Swed Hundo (June 2, thedeadswedehundo. itsyourrace.com). When the races are over, you can bet your last dollar that all of your new best friends, and many of Sheridan’s 18,000 locals, will gather at one of the town’s Instagram-worthy watering holes, such as the local Black Tooth Brewing Co. Whether you’re seeking fresh air, sucking wind, or the mind-blowing scenery, Sheridan needs to be on your summer hit list in 2018.

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We Will We Will Rock You! CHEYENNE

| THE LEGENDARY WEST LIVES ON!

onveniently situated just an hour and a half north of Denver, Cheyenne, Wyoming has long been a Front Range favorite. Even the name and the town’s motto, “Live the Legend,” bring forth notions of Old West inspired adventure and American cultural history. Cheyenne Frontier Days is the world’s largest outdoor rodeo, dating back to 1897 and kicking of on the first full week of July each year. The Cheyenne Frontier Days Old West Museum & Store is a must-see no matter what time of year you’re in town. Cheyenne is also the perfect jumpingoff point for experiencing the West’s greatest natural treasures: Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National

JACKSON HOLE

Outdoor lovers rejoice in Cheyenne’s cycling, climbing, boating, wildlife viewing and more. Curt Gowdy State Park and Vedauwoo stand out as renowned bouldering and sportclimbing destinations, even by Front Range standards. To cut the summer heat, head to Granite, Crystal, and Upper North Crow reservoirs for all types of boating, from sailing and water skiing to canoeing and SUPing. Curt Gowdy and Medicine Bow State Parks also offer ideal spots for camping away from the masses.

| STAY FOR THE SUMMER—AND THE VIA FERRATA

hile most people associate Jackson Hole with its epic ski lines, the motto “come for the winter, stay for the summer,” holds especially true here. The fly fishing, boating, mountain biking, hiking and climbing in the Jackson area has always drawn adventurous travelers. Now Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (JHMR) has another big summer attraction sure to get your attention: a new via ferrata. One of the safest and fun ways that anyone can experience serious exposure, via ferratas have long been popular in the Alps. Climbers make their way along fixed routes via system of iron rungs and steel cables, safely clipped in at all times.

Park, Mount Rushmore, the Black Hills and Devils Tower are all less than a day’s drive from this Southeastern Wyoming hub.

Via ferrata is ideal for groups, families, and even solo climbers, all of whom will experience the thrill and breathtaking views from the top with an experienced guide. The unique route winds along granite walls through true alpine terrain, and across suspended bridges high above the valley floor. The Via Ferrata at JHMR is open June 16 through September 9, and by reservation only from September 9 through October 2, 2018. Located just south of Grand Teton National Park, JHMR and Teton Village are the go-to spot for every kind of family friendly fun, from mild to extreme. Visit jacksonhole.com for more information or call 307-739-2779.

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CARBON COUNTY GET YOUR WEST ON...

eady. Set. Explore! Come discover why Carbon County is Wyoming’s best kept secret with its rich history of infamous Old West outlaws and colorful characters, all set in some of the most beautiful and unspoiled natural landscapes around. Carbon County is known for its natural hot springs, pristine rivers, excellent hiking and biking trails, crystal clear lakes, classic western towns and fun local events. Carbon County is situated high on the nation’s Continental Divide, boasting some of the best outdoor recreation you can find. This southcentral Wyoming adventure-lover’s mecca sits astride Interstate 80 and is replete with wild spaces, cultural sites, museums, Scenic Byways and more. If you want adrenaline, Carbon County is home to some of the wildest river running in the West. Both the Encampment River and the North Platte River—also renowned for their world-class fly fishing—are home to some of the best technical kayaking

runs in the U.S. Thrill-seekers can get their fix in the famed nine-mile Northgate Canyon, but casual paddlers can also enjoy calm stretches and more than a dozen access points between Saratoga, Encampment and Riverside. No matter what you seek, dial in to one of Carbon County’s numerous guide services for information on how to best get out on the water. Thirst for adventure still not quenched? There’s hiking, horseback riding, rock climbing and mountain biking. Carbon County also draws bird watchers from around the world as well as wildlife photographers seeking shots of pronghorn, bighorn sheep, bald eagles, moose, elk, black bear and mountain lions. Come back in the winter for some of Wyoming’s best Nordic skiing, dog sledding and snowmobiling. Carbon County’s wide open spaces and low population make for an outdoor enthusiast’s dream come true. Come enjoy the genuine Western frontier and “Get Your West On!”

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Looking for the goods that can survive a summer of hard use and maybe even make your life better and elevate your life outside? Meet the gear that EO’s funhogging contributors love to love to death. CONTRIBUTORS: DEVON BALET, AARON BIBLE, ADAM CHASE, JOE CARBERRY, ROB COPPOLILLO, CHRIS KASSAR, CAMERON MARTINDELL, DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN, RYAN STUART, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN, ZACH WHITE

wice each year we hand out these coveted Peak Gear Awards to the very best stuff we put to the test in the field. How do we determine the winners? Simple. We asked our top contributors—who, we are proud to admit, spend far more time camping, hiking, backpacking, biking, climbing and paddling than they do “working”—to name the best gear they used over the past year. What gear can’t you live without? Which gear changed your life?

FLEECE PATAGONIA R1 TECHFACE HOODY $169; patagonia.com Why It Won: This stretchy, breathable fleece handled abuse and bad weather in numerous dicey situations. Plus, Patagonia is a company dedicated to doing environmental and social good, so it’s a feel-good buy.

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Where We Took It: Our tester has been grabbing this fleece over the past few months as his go-to jacket for everything from long rock climbs in Eldorado Canyon to mixed/drytooling in Rocky Mountain National Park to snowy runs to nights having fun out on the town. He also gave an enthusiastic thumbs up to the beefier, warmer R2 Techface, which truly proves its worth when the winds pick up in Eldorado Canyon 300 feet off the ground. The R2 will not be available to the public until August 2018, however. CLIMBING SHOE EVOLVE ORACLE $175; evolvspots.com Why It Won: Straight out of the box, they felt as if they improved our climbing. They’re packed with features: a split tongue, speed lace closure, a downturned/asymmetric profile and synthetic uppers. They feel spongy as they wrap around the feet, so they don’t hurt and squeeze too much, but they also stick to the steeps with ease. These aren’t everyday shoes, however; unless your idea of everyday climbing is radically overhanging terrain. Where We Took It: We used the shoes on hard and varied terrain—everything from cracks to stemming to edging—on routes across the Front Range. PUFFY ARC’TERYX CERIUM SL HOODY $349; arcteryx.com Why It Won: It packs down into a bundle that’s a little larger than a softball and proves versatile enough to use as a midlayer or as a primary insulator for highoutput activities ranging from skinning to hiking. Where We Took It: Spring skiing and shoulderseason hiking in Vail. Backpacking. It proved ideal when we packed it as our go-to warm jacket for destinations ranging from Iceland to Bend, Oregon.

VAT I ON

TDOOR

THE 2018 SUMMER PEAK GEAR AWARDS

BEST GEAR

KAYAK OCEAN KAYAK MALIBU PEDAL $2,200; oceankayak.com Why It Won: Simple—it makes paddling fun and easy. Or make that not paddling. The smooth foot pedal system in this kayak means you don’t have to worry about your paddle when you are involved with far more important endeavors on the water such as casting a fly rod or looking through binoculars. Where We Took It: Fishing and lazy-day paddling on Boulder Reservoir. Grand Lake. HIKER SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER GTX $199; salewa.com Why It Won: Meet the perfect quiver-of-one shoe for any day in the mountains—it’s not too beefy for day jaunts but stiff enough for tech-y summit scrambles and even overnight pack-hauling adventures. Where We Took It: Everywhere from hikes out our backdoor in Boulder’s Flatirons to red-rock rambles in Utah to weeklong hut-to-hut excursions in the Alps. MOUNTAIN BIKE PIVOT MACH 5.5 CARBON RACE XT 1X $4,900; pivotcycles.com Why It Won: The latest refinement of Pivot’s incredibly pedal-friendly DW-Link suspension platform provides 140mm of rear-wheel travel that soaks up everything while maintaining a light touch on ups and downs. The bike just feels like the right tool for the job on a wide spectrum of trails. This $4,900 “base model” is basically what a typical bike shop employee would run on their own bike, and there’s nothing basic about it. Where We Took It: It handled the technical trails of Moab like a bike with 25-percent more travel, yet never felt out of place on the dirt-road grinds.

SLEEPING BAG MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR GHOST WHISPERER 20F $450; mountainhardwear.com Why It Won: The same super-light weight design in Mountain Hardwear’s famed puffy jacket delivered impressive warmth and packability for its light weight. Where We Took It: Globetrotting from the beaches of Vancouver Island, BC, to hut trips across Canada to backpacking jaunts in Colorado’s San Juans. SUN PROTECTION COLUMBIA PFG SOLAR SHADE PRINTED LONG SLEEVE $70; columbia.com Why It Won: Columbia’s Omni Shade fabric really kept cool during long days on the water while breathing surprisingly well, even in the tropics. That added up to a shirt that looks heavy, feels light and keeps out the sun. Where We Took It: It warded off UV rays while we cast everywhere from the Yucatán to the South Platte. SLEEPING PAD BIG AGNES AXL AIR $140-$190; bigagnes.com Why It Won: This carry-anywhere pad is the size of a can of beer and damn near the same weight, too. Where We Took It: Backpacking, bikepacking, packrafting and long train rides. CAMERA RYLO 360º CAMERA $500; rylo.com Why It Won: This little, dual-lens, 360-degree camera includes software that stitches the images together and provides buttery smooth stabilization. The phone-based app is intuitive and makes it easy

to crop, edit and share standard videos in horizontal, vertical or immersive 360-degree images. It’s not waterproof, but a separately sold case gets it there. Where We Took It: Everywhere from the slot canyons of Utah to the fjords of Arctic Norway.

your torso and doesn’t bounce on extended treks but also appreciated that same easy fit on quick missions. Where We Took It: A 70-mile trek through the wilds of Lapland and an overnighter to Colorado's Heart Lake. CHAIR

ROPE EDELRID SWIFT ECO 8.9MM $280; edelrid.de Why It Won: Here’s a lightweight, do-it-all cord (rated single, twin and half) made of recycled materials that uses no PVC in the production/manufacturing process and still gets a “Dry” rating from the UIAA. Where We Took It: Italy’s Dolomites; Red Rocks, Nevada; Eldorado Canyon and RMNP in Colorado. FLY ROD REDINGTON PREDATOR $350; redington.com Why It Won: Guts and grace. This supple strong series of rods (they range from 5-weight to 12-weight) gives you all the muscle to land big fish but still casts as smooth as a daintier stick. The rod truly proved its mettle when we tossed big, ugly articulated streamers and complicated nymph rigs for lunkers. Where We Took It: We took the 6-weight to Boxwood Gulch on Colorado’s North Platte and cast (and caught) big stuff all day long, no problem.

NEMO STARGAZE RECLINER CHAIR $180; nemoequipment.com Why It Won: Most camp chairs require some sort of slouching for watching the sky, but the rocking frame here makes it feel like laying sideways in a hammock. Where We Took It: Backyard lounging, camping in Utah and road tripping through Wyoming.H CYLING SHELL GORE WEAR C7 GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY STRETCH $369; gorewear.com Why It Won: Innovation. The lightweight, breathable, Gore-Tex Shakedry Fabric paired with the new GoreTex Fabric with Stretch technology allows for a roadcycling specific jacket that fits like a jersey, while still being completely waterproof even in a downpour. It packs down smaller than a fist and also works in warm-but-wet conditions and cold situations, (whether or not it’s raining). Best of all, yes, you can just shake the jacket and all the water beads off. Where We Took It: The shell endured the rain and snow of Park City, Utah, in April and the rain and snow of the Colorado high country all year long.

PACK SHIRT OSPREY ATMOS AG 50 $240; osprey.com Why It Won: A previous version of this backpack won a Peak Gear Award and the suspension and intuitive nature of the its adjustments and compartments only got better in this compact, easy-to-haul upgrade. We truly appreciated the way the suspension melds to

LULULEMON METAL VENT SURGE SHORT SLEEVE $78; halagear.com Why It Won: It just refuses to stink. No matter where we wore it—from hot yoga to trail runs to travel, this shirt endures days of sweat and abuse but still looks classy enough for use when you travel or grab a J U N E 2 01 8 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

post-workout meal. Where We Took It: Trail runs across the planet—from Chamonix to Boulder’s Mount Sanitas. Hikes in Utah slot canyons. Daily practice and Boulder’s Hanuman yoga festival. TENT MSR HUBBA TOUR 2 $650; msrgear.com Why It Won: Designed for bikepacking and big trips where you need space to transition, this two-person tent offered lots of comfort thanks to a roomy vestibule where we could change clothes and/ or stash gear out of the elements. Best of all, it’s shockingly light for such a big shelter at four pounds, seven ounces. Where We Took It: It served as the ideal home away from home bikepacking in Colorado’s Sawatch range.

SUP HALA GRAM $1,099; halagear.com Why It Won: It’s just pure fun. Everywhere we took it—from navigating whitewater to just messing around on the lake— and no matter who hopped on it, this eight-foot, 30-inch inflatable proved up to the task. Credit that versatility to its stability and a shape that makes it quite responsive in any conditions. It’s a snap to inflate and the tough rubber isn’t deterred by fast-moving encounters with sharp rocks. Where We Took It: It packed nicely in the back of our Highlander for quick deployment everywhere from Steamboat’s Yampa to the Boulder Reservoir. DUFFEL YETI PANGA SUBMERSIBLE DUFFEL $300-$400; yeti.com Why It Won: Like everything Yeti does, this gear hauler is bomber. It held up to the abuse of being tossed in the back of pickups, airline cargo holds and drift boats—and it survived full immersion on a Dolores River trip. Is it a lot to pay for a duffel? Sure, but it’s nice to know you can count on it. Where We Took It: Everywhere we go—from classic use on river trips like the Dolores and Ruby-Horsethief to hauling family bike gear to Moab. SHELL FLYLOW RAINBREAKER $140; flylowgear.com Why It Won: Don’t let the super-thin 20D ultralight fabric fool you, this ultralight jacket can withstand a surprising amount of precipitation. While it’s not our primary rain gear, it’s perfect for Colorado and Utah adventures when you want that extra layer you hope you don’t need but are stoked to have when the skies open up. It also works well as a wind shell. Where We Took It: Robbers Roost Canyon in Utah for a week. Front Range hikes. Backpacking for the season. TREKKING POLES LEKI MICRO CARBON VARIO LADY $220; leki.com Why It Won: We didn’t think we needed women-specific trekking poles—until we tried them. The grips proved easy to hold when navigating steep scree and the locking system made quick assembly and break-down a snap so that we could transition from using them to packing them away in a hurry. Where We Took It: Mountain scrambles in the Front Range and Appalachians. Backpacking trips in the San Juans and the wilds of Finnish Lapland.

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TRAIL RUNNING

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ALTRA KING MT 1.5

SUMMER’S BEST TRAIL RUNNERS

BROOKS LEVITATE

HOKA ONE ONE STINSON ATR 4

UNDER ARMOUR HORIZON RTT

SALOMON XA ELEVATE

We put five high-performing shoes through the wringer so you can pick the right one for your style, terrain and passion. by GARETT GRAUBINS

HIGH MILEAGE UNDER ARMOUR H o r izo n RT T Perfect For: High-mileage trail monsters who need a shoe that can take a serious beating. Pretty Darn Good For: Post-run revelers who don’t want to look like running dorks at the local brewery. Down and Dirty: Made exclusively for trails, the Horizon RTT features a rock-proof polyurethane and textile upper. This outermost layer forms a cohesive protective sheath, but look closely and you’ll spot hundreds of vents to ensure that it doesn’t cause your feet to overheat. The shoe’s heel cushioning rivaled others we tested and responded well on all surfaces after a few miles of breaking in. The luggy outsole earned our trust across rocks and muddy spring downhills. $110; underarmour.com

GRAVEL POUNDING BROOKS Levitate Perfect For: Serious miles on paved paths or treadmills. Pretty Darn Good For: Treading the occasional dirt road or gravel circuit. Down and Dirty: This supercomfortable, roomy road shoe provides all the cushioning and durability you need for training, plus enough design chutzpah for your neighborhood 10K (they claim the most energy return of leading performance running shoes). A specially-designed midfoot flex point encourages a linear heel-to-toe transition essential to efficient leg turnover (geek alert!). But don’t limit these to sidewalks: The Levitate is a true road-trail hybrid. One of our testers, a seasoned trail ultra runner who logged 100 miles in testing, marveled at how the stride-neutral Levitate floated over pavement and roots. “I ran on asphalt, dirt, gravel, mud and snow. You can take these anywhere!” $150; brooksrunning.com

DAILY TRAINING SALOMON XA Elevate Perfect For: Mid-pack trail runners and varied conditions. Pretty Darn Good For: Local rails-to-trails paths or gravel rollers. Down and Dirty: The Elevate magically brings the comfort of a road shoe to the unforgiving, rocky terrain of the mountains. The forefoot flexes and grips with just the right degree of firmness: It’s stiff enough to protect but pliable enough to let you feel the Earth roll under you. It performed equally well in the dust and mud, thanks to a special grippy rubber compound on the outsole. There’s also plenty of support in this sturdy, lightweight package. $130; salomon.com

COMPETITIVE SPIRIT ALTRA King MT 1.5 Perfect For: Front of the pack mountain runners—or those striving to get there. Pretty Darn Good For: Dancing across technical terrain at any speed. Down and Dirty: With its feathery weight (8.5 ounces in a men’s 9) and snug fit courtesy of an over-the-top-of-the-foot strap, the flexible Altra King truly is a high-performance trail

slipper. The roomy toe box lets your foot breathe without being sloppy. The lean fit doesn’t compromise durability, either; one tester logged 80 miles and more than 20,000 feet of climbing with no signs of wear. Whereas other shoes sport a heel-to-toe drop ranging from 6mm to 8mm, Altra’s bedrock mantra is that it provides cushioning and zero drop from heel to toe. The belief is that a zero drop translates to a more efficient running form. We see the light. $140; altrarunning.com

ULTRA ENDEAVORS HOKA ONE ONE Stinson ATR 4 Perfect For: Long, arduous miles, especially trail ultramarathons. Pretty Darn Good For: Every-day wear. Down and Dirty: HOKA’s update to the Stinson ATR offers a wider platform, which equates to more surface contact—and better traction. Comfortable straight out of the box, the Stinson's tightly-packed lugs provide excellent grip on wet or muddy surfaces. Finally—let's not kid ourselves—HOKAs are about cushioning. The Stinson delivers a spongy ride for mile after mile. $160; hokaoneone.com J U N E 2 01 8 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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DEEPER FOCUS Colorado music photographer Lisa Siciliano shifted the paradigm as a woman in the business who shoots on black-and-white film—she still works in that medium, just for the art of it. by PATTY MALESH

f you’re a live-music-loving Coloradan, you’ve likely seen Lisa Siciliano. She’s the woman in the grey beanie, flower-print sundress and combat boots who’s comfortably camouflaged behind a 35-mm film camera with a long lens aimed at your favorite band from just below the stage. But she wasn’t groomed to be a rock-photographer. As a waitress at the Fox Theater in Boulder in the 1990s, Siciliano felt a lack of creativity in her life. So when she turned 32, she treated herself to a used Pentax K-1000 and headed to the Pearl Street Mall to photograph children at play. “I thought music photography would be boring,” Siciliano, now 49, confesses—that is until her husband, Jacques Armand, needed a band photographer for his gigs at the Fox. Soon, she was keeping her camera behind the bar and pulling it out for the last song of each night’s show. Within a year, she nabbed the job of house photographer at Red Rocks Amphitheater, where she stayed on until 2008. Music photography as an artistic profession has a history that is mostly absent of women. Siciliano felt that. Before her first gig in 2001 for Ani Difranco, management stopped her and escorted her up to the offices for confirmation that she was, in fact, the new house photographer. During her second shoot for Chris Isaak, security assumed she was his girlfriend. And then there was the time that a famous musician asked her back to his room for a private afterparty. Siciliano used her bad experiences as fuel to transcend sexism by improving her art with every shot. “I felt like I had to work 10 times harder because I was a woman,” she says. She thinks that oddly the rise of digital photography, with fewer barriers to entry, has actually helped women become more prevalent in the the business. Siciliano, however, is a film purist when she shoots live music, though she does shoot digital for other jobs. “There’s something about the depth, the richness of film. It collects light differently.” Her black-andwhite work offers intimate precision in an age of burst photography and Instagram filter blitzkriegs. “I take one shot to a digital photographer’s 2,000. Digital photography forced me to be more precise,” she says. Shooting with film also keeps her focused. “I like not seeing the photos as I am shooting. I’ve learned to think and see in film when I shoot.” That’s especially important now that concert photopasses are good for only a song or two during a performance (or only 60 seconds in the case of Stevie Wonder when she shot him in early 2000s).

She gets wild-eyed when she talks about B.B. King’s favorite photo of hers, one of him that she gave his driver just before he played the Boulder theater years ago.

BLACK-AND-WHITE INTIMACY SICILIANO SHOOTS FILM TO MAKE ART OF FLEA ONSTAGE (TOP). SICILIANO AT HOME (BOTTOM). SEE MORE OF HER WORK AT DOGDAZEROCKS.COM OR ON DISPLAY AT THE RIVERSIDE AND MYLK HOUSE IN BOULDER AND THE FILMORE AUDITORIUM IN DENVER. photos by LISA SICILIANO (top), courtesy LISA SICILIANO (bottom)

iciliano very much defines herself as an artist when it comes to her work, but most live concert photography is not sold as art. Few rock photographers exhibit and sell their work like Siciliano does--with shows and large prints that hang in private homes. She does plenty of other music industry work that she shoots on digital cameras, but her live music photography is something different. By 2005, Siciliano started exhibiting her collection in places where folks get to interact with her photos—hair salons, coffee shops, restaurants, bars, doctors’ offices and music venues, like Denver‘s Filmore, themselves. These showcases have supplemented 13 years of her annual Rock & Roll Photography Art Show and Sale “Rockin’ In A Winter Wonderland,” which features a livemusic lineup of local bands as well as her photography. The acts are as happy to play to promote her as she is to photograph and promote them. “I love working with local, small bands. I’ve been hired a lot to shoot bands performing for the first time at Red Rocks. They really care about publicity and having their photos taken while performing,” Siciliano says.

Her work has a following. “Most of my prints are discovered and sold via word of mouth,” says Siciliano, noting that she has sold work across the globe. In fact, she is gearing up for a European tour of her photography in 2019. In the meantime, you are likely to find her fulfilling her happy duties as the current house photographer for Boulder Theater, Bellco and Boulder Chautauqua 2018 concert series. Shooting still thrills her. She gets wild eyed when she talks about B.B. King’s favorite photo of hers, one of him that she gave his driver just before he played the Boulder Theater years ago. In it, his guitar is resting in its familiar place on his thigh, his head is down and his hands are in prayer position as he honors his audience. A large canvas version is slated for display at the B.B. King museum within the year. Or her Lou Reed image—in it, he is staring directly at her camera— that she developed in her backyard on watercolor paper via cyanotype, a solar-activated chemical processing used in the early days of photography. You’ll find both of these prints on display year-round at The Riverside in Boulder. J U N E 2 01 8 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

T H E R OA D

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AT HOME IN THE WOODS How a light-and-fast backpacker learned that those same skills applied to hunting. And how she found a surprisingly deeper relationship to the wild. by STEPHANIE VU

y husband Alex and I were en route to the Needleton stop on the Durango-Silverton steampowered railroad, and the train steadily lurched on as I anxiously watched the rain outside. From Needleton, we would hike in six miles to Chicago Basin where we would set up camp to attempt to climb four Colorado fourteeners—Sunlight, Wisdom, Eolus and North Eolus. As the train slowed to a stop, we exited, retrieved our bags, and began hiking.

A few miles in, Alex and I took a break under a steady drizzle on the side of the trail surrounded by lush, green, wet forest. The rainy season in the San Juans had taken hold. A group of hunters soon appeared, all dressed in camouflage and steadily pacing by us one-by-one. As they passed, something caught my eye—a compound bow strapped to the front of a large, camouflaged pack. It never occurred to me that hunters would be in the same area as backpackers, let alone this deep in the backcountry. I had recently entered the world of hunting, having taken a hunter's education course a few months before this trip and I was dead set on using a rifle. The thought of bow hunting, let alone bow hunting in the backcountry, had never crossed my mind. In the end, we never reached the peaks of those fourteeners; between attempting to wait out a snow storm at Twin Lakes and massive thunderstorms dropping snow high on the summits overnight, the proper weather window never opened up for us. But as we left the basin and

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crawled into the train for our return trip, I couldn’t stop thinking about those hunters filing past me, their bows gleaming in the woods.

COMPOUND IDENTITY

photo by ALEXANDER BOEHM

didn’t grow up hunting—I didn’t even draw my first bow until I was 29 years old—but a love of animals and a sense of responsibility for my food that began when I was a college student slowly set me on the path to becoming a hunter. It may come as some surprise to learn that I was a vegetarian for two years. I made that choice out of the frustration of both not knowing where my food came from and my own lack of hunting skills, my fear of shooting any projectile—rifle or bow. But still, I wanted to become responsible for the substance I put on my plate. I learned to shoot a rifle because I began competing in winter biathlon, a combination of Nordic skiing and shooting. I was excited to think that I could finally hunt. I dove head first into the hunting world. Soon, encouraged by my husband and those hunters in the San Juans, I tried a bow. I was hesitant, however—I worried what

THE AUTHOR DISCOVERED A NEW UNDERSTANDING OF THE MOUNTAINS WHEN SHE TOOK UP A BOW.

would the hunting community think of me? I was a city girl who loved hiking and backpacking, but was always paranoid and anxious about being lost and off-trail and I had only just learned how to shoot a rifle and a bow. I was pleasantly surprised at how misguided my fears ended up being. Complete strangers took me under their wing and shared their knowledge gleaned and honed from lifetimes of hunting in the mountains, forests and plains. My mentors and newfound friends taught me how to read the habitat on topographic maps, how to shoot a bow, how elk think, and most importantly, what it means to hunt. For many of the hunters I met and learned from, hunting was much more than a means to get food; it was a way of life and a quiet retreat to reconnect with nature and oneself. Often times

I was a vegetarian for two years. I made the choice out of frustration from both not knowing where my food came from and my own lack of hunting skills, my fear of shooting any projectile— rifle or bow. But still, I wanted to become responsible for the substance on my plate.

someone would tell me, “I don't know how to explain it, but hunting feels natural. It's awakening a part of you passed down from generations.” I didn’t understand this until I began preparing and scouting the woods for my first hunting trip. I had high expectations that my new sense of knowledge coupled with my love of hiking far and high would allow me to scout a large area efficiently—I learned extremely quickly to reset my expectations much, much lower. What looked like a simple path through the woods to an open meadow with a small pond on the topographic map was in actuality covered in impenetrable deadfall. My path constantly changed— instead of deadfall I’d find a cliff or a boulder field or I’d see signs of game that steered me in a different direction. I slowed down. I breathed the forest air. I looked around. Slowly, I felt my senses opening. I explored the woods as a hunter. Soon, I began stopping to observe everything— the trees, ground, vegetation, access to water, potential shelters. What would take me an hour to hike on an

established trail took me several hours to observe and traverse. As I studied the terrain around me, I wandered—letting my senses and knowledge guide me— but I was never lost.

oon enough, my first hunting trip arrived. Excitement and adrenaline kept me awake the night before opening day for Colorado bow season. I found myself waiting and sitting in the car on Rabbit’s Ear Pass at 2 a.m., looking at the planetarium of stars. I didn’t see an elk or deer my first time hunting, but I will never forget the feeling of stepping into the darkness of the woods with a bow strapped to my back and the silent stillness of the night and the crisp mountain air. I found a spot to sit in silence for an hour as I waited for legal shooting light. I thought of those hunters in Chicago basin, thanking them for inspiring me and feeling a small kinship while I waited. After I watched the stars slowly fade away, the sky lit up and I heard sounds of rustling critters. I nocked my first arrow with a soft click. Finally, I felt at home in the woods. J U N E 2 01 8 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

E LWAY V I L L E

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WATER DOGS

You know who loves playing in the water even more than you? Your everloving canine companion.

by PETER KRAY

As much as I love being outdoors, I don’t know if I would enjoy it as much without a dog.

y mother reads this column. She has Elevation Outdoors delivered to the house she and Dad moved to in Tacoma, Washington, which she now shares with a stray, 14-pound Norwegian Forest cat named Hope Louise who lives on the third floor. Two years ago, after mom’s last German Shepherd died, Hope Louise mysteriously showed up at the front door. A neighbor said the cat lived under the boat in his yard the entire winter. And since Hope Louise moved in with my mom, she hasn’t once been back outdoors. Mom would like to get another dog, but doesn’t think the cat would approve. We talk about dogs every time I call. When I told her I was writing a column about high alpine streams, well-loved pups, and our history in Colorado, she said, “You should write about the time Toby dropped a rock on Dad’s fishing pole.” Toby was our first family dog, a beautiful, large German Shepherd that my dad got when he was in the Air Force before my brother and I were born. Dad taught Toby to fetch rocks from the bottom of lakes and rivers. On a camping trip to Twin Lakes, near Leadville, Toby decided to start the game himself, flipping dad a five-pound rock that shattered Dad’s brand new fishing pole. As I remember, we spent the rest of the weekend eating macaroni and cheese and oatmeal. We packed in all our food from that point on. I also remember a consistent, adventurous succession of German Shepherds who accompanied us on numerous long treks through the Rockies—there was Sohn (he died on Mt. Princeton), Pancho (so big and black people thought he was a bear), Otto (who loved to ski) and Murphy (who kept my dad calm and happy in his final years).

TOBY TWO

I had my own dog named Toby, a Labrador/Malamute mix I acquired from a drunken roommate in Jackson Hole. I I took care of Toby whenever the roommate was out at the bars. When he asked me to do the same while he guided rivers in Alaska for the summer, I said, “Sure, but he won’t still be yours when you come home.” Toby was a rambunctious, social creature who ran away for weeks in a row. Once, after I put up a new series of “Lost Dog” signs, one caller said he had seen him over the pass in Idaho. Toby usually came home when he was hungry or needed me to clean his snout of porcupine quills, although once he came running into the house with a giant trout that I will never know if he caught or stole. On hungover summer Sundays, we’d drive along the Snake River, walk a mile or two back up the road, then jump in the water and let the current carry us back to the car. Sometimes skiing Teton Pass, I had to wait for Toby to get in another run, sprinting after some other group of boot-packers up the hill. When I moved back to Denver, we would drive up to Rocky Mountain National Park in the spring where, like the Toby before him, Toby 2 would jump into the river after floating logs. When he died, I took his ashes up to Glory Bowl on Teton Pass on a Fourth of July weekend, and as I spread his powdery remains in the wind, a young woman hiked up to me and demanded to know, “Is that snow?”

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Illustration by Kevin Howdeshell / THEBRAVEUNION.COM

I stayed a week longer and took Toby’s little black Labrador sister Bella to the Snake every day, teaching her to swim with her giant webbed paws. We stopped to fish just south of Sheridan, where she jumped in the lake for a dip, then sprinted along the beach until she got tangled in my line and snapped my fishing pole.

DOG YEARS

As much as I love being outdoors, I don’t know if I would enjoy it as much without a dog. Their excitement, enthusiasm, and especially their own wild, back-to-nature instincts make a a hike a swim, or a run so much more interesting than it would be alone. As much as our human minds keep turning, the hardest thing to do is to be as present—and happy— as dogs always are, forever in the now! I also love that innate sense of instantly sharing anything and everything that happens without saying any words, which only occurs with dogs, and the very best people you know.

When our blonde Labrador Bettie Wonder, a strong skier, runner and rabbit chaser, but not a particularly enthusiastic swimmer, passed on two years ago, my wife and I ran out of things to talk about. So we got a puppy for the first time in 15 years. I lost seven pounds the first month she was here. And I got deep out into the open space behind our house again, seeing the trees, birds and undulating folds of the rising hills through the dog’s eyes, always ready to be rediscovered, always revealing something new. I also felt optimistic again. I was embarking on a new journey through the natural world that I hope will last many years. Time is a river, of course, and with a good dog as a companion, it feels just fine to be back in the flow. —ELEVATION OUTDOORS EDITOR-AT-LARGE PETER KRAY IS THE AUTHOR OF THE GOD OF SKIING. THE BOOK HAS BEEN CALLED “THE GREATEST SKI NOVEL OF ALL TIME.” DON’T BELIEVE THE HYPE? YOU CAN BUY IT HERE: AMZN.TO/2LMZPVN

PLAYS WELL WITH BOULDERS. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a reason we put our beer in cans instead of bottles. Because when we can our beer, you can do more with it. More hiking and biking. More climbing and camping. More of anything you can think of, out where our beer was brewed to be enjoyed: in nature. At Upslope, we can so you can.

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