Elevation Outdoors June-July 2020 by Summit Publishing

RESPONSIBLE ADVENTURE | SAFE SUMMER GLAMPING | SUP W YOMING JUNE-JULY 2020

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water E L E V AT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

the

issue

THE DEDICATION OF THE WOMAN ANGLER

Casting, Conservation, and Cancer

Paddling, fly fishing, people, politics, and destinations in the age of social distance

TDOOR

VAT I ON

PEAK GEAR AWARDS: THE PRODUCTS THAT HOLD UP

OPEN FOR BUSINESS: VISIT THESE LOCAL SHOPS AND SUPPORT INDEPENDENT RETAILERS!

KNOW YOUR RIGHTS: CLEAN WATER IS UNDER ATTACK AND NEEDS YOUR HELP

+ THE S U RF HOT E L + EN J OY TH E DARK S KY

M O R E A DV E N T U R E . L E S S W O R R Y.

GPSMAP® 66i GPS handheld and satellite communicator* with inReach® technology. Satellite subscription required. NOTICE: Some jurisdictions regulate or prohibit the use of satellite communication devices. It is your responsibility to know and follow all applicable laws in the jurisdictions where the device is intended to be used. ©2019 Garmin Ltd. or its subsidiaries.

YO U C A ME F OR TH E W IN TE R . S TAY F OR TH E

SU MMER

FLYLOW â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S NE W MTB C O L L E C T I O N AVA ILA B LE N O W

JUNE 2020

OUT OF THIS WORLD: BOULDER’S FAMED NEPTUNE MOUNTAINEERING OPENED UP AGAIN WITH RESTRICTIONS LAST MONTH. COME SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL RETAILERS. SEE PAGE 20.

DEPARTMENTS 7 EDITOR'S LETTER Finding distance in the eastern plains 9 QUICK HITS Social distance when you fish from a SUP; the best spots for safe glamping; look up to the dark skies; local trans hero Erin Parisi; Orvis teaches you to cast from home; the world’s best tarp... 13 NUMEROLOGY River rat Tracy Ross digs into the numbers when it comes to paddling. 14 FLASHPOINT Writer Emma Murry explores her lifelong relationship with water and the Trump Administration's attempts to go around the Clean Water Act. 16 STRAIGHT TALK Former pro paddler and co-founder of Buena Vista’s South Main, Jed Selby talks about how he will open up his hotels.

17 HOT SPOT The rules seem to change every day. Here's the EO guide on how to stay informed and recreate responsibly this summmer. 26 HEAR THIS Boulder's Ted Thacker’s (aka The Red Tack) experiences a revival. 28 THE ROAD Kara Armano tells the tale of a woman’s life spent fly fishing and healing. 30 ELWAYVILLE The story of love, rain, and a bald-headed god

FEATURES 18 THE SUMMER 2020 PEAK GEAR AWARDS Twice each year we hand out these coveted Peak Gear Awards to the very best gear we put to the test in the field. How do we determine the winners? Simple. We ask our top contributors— who, we are proud to admit, spend far more

time camping, hiking, backpacking, biking, climbing and paddling than they do “working”— to name the best gear they used over the past year. What gear can’t you live without? Which gear changed your life? What products made your adventures better? 20 OPEN FOR BUSINESS Local gear shops are emerging from the shutdown. Here’s how you can support them.

ON THE COVER Jean-Marie Bousquet wades across the Yampa River on an early summer morning to present the first dry fly of the season to a group of rising trout. By David Reilly reillylife.com Instagram @the_lifeofreilly_

WANT MORE? CATCH UP ON PAST ISSUES, YOUR FAVORITE BLOGGERS AND DAILY ONLINE CONTENT AT ELEVATIONOUTDOORS.COM

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ADVENTURES ON THE

We can’t wait to have you back to Colorado’s Original Playground. Make up for lost time and reconnect with the outdoors this summer in the most breathtaking place for it. Start planning your next getaway at VisitEstesPark.com.

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WHAT'S SOMETHING NEW THAT YOU HAVE DISCOVERED OVER THE LAST THREE MONTHS? E DI TOR-I N -CHI E F

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

doug@elevationoutdoors.com PRE SI DE N T

BLAKE DEMASO

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

Gravel grinding. I’m loving exploring right out my door.

blake@elevationoutdoors.com PUBLI SHE R

CONOR SEDMAK

conor@elevationoutdoors.com

GENUINE COLORADO experience

CRE AT I VE DI RE CTOR

LAUREN WORTH

lauren@elevationoutdoors.com EDITORIAL + PRODUCTION MAN AG I N G E DI TOR

CAMERON MARTINDELL

conor sedmak

The level to which our successes, struggles, hopes, and frustrations are all connected.

TRACY ROSS

Cocktails. Gourmet ones. And pie crust.

cameron@elevationoutdoors.com COPY ASSASSI N

TRACY ROSS

SE N I OR E DI TOR

CHRIS KASSAR

chris@elevationoutdoors.com G RAPHI C DE SI G N E R

AMELIA MCCONNELL

amelia@elevationoutdoors.com E DI TOR-AT-LARG E

PETER KRAY

CON T RI BUT I N G E DI TORS

AARON BIBLE, ADAM CHASE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, SONYA LOONEY, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN CON T RI BUT I N G WRI T E RS

KARA ARMANO, EMMA ATHENA, JOSHUA BERMAN, JEFF BLUMENFELD, CAMERON M. BURNS, KATIE COAKLEY, DONNY O’NEILL, JAMIE SIEBRASE, MORGAN TILTON ADVERTISING + BUSINESS SE N I OR ACCOUN T E XE CUT I V E

MARTHA EVANS

Cameron Martindell

Turns out I was already living a shelter-in-place sort of life at home, but I really miss traveling and seeing new places.

chris kassar

Even though I am definitely an introvert, I really love spending time with my friends and family and I won’t ever take that for granted again.

Emma Athena

I discovered The Great British Baking Show, which deliciously coincides with my re-inspired local mountain running goals. Summit cinnamon rolls anyone?

Courtney Holden

HANNAH COOPER

That teachers are severely underpaid and showering is seriously overrated. Pants, too.

BUSI N E SS MAN AG E R

Cameron m. Burns

martha@elevationoutdoors.com ACCOUN T E XE CUT I VE

hcooper@elevationoutdoors.com

MELISSA GESSLER

melissa@elevationoutdoors.com CI RCULAT I ON I N QUI RI E S

circulation@elevationoutdoors.com DIGITAL MEDIA ON LI N E DI RE CTOR

CRAIG SNODGRASS

craig@elevationoutdoors.com DI G I TAL MAN AG E R

PETER HAGGSTROM

That procrastination is possible under any circumstances.

donny O’Neill

Just as much adventure exists on the prairie as it does in the mountains.

Kara Armano

ELEVATIONOUTDOORS.COM P U B L I S H E D BY

SUMMIT

riograndecounty.com 6

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PUBLISHING

With on-going cancer treatments, I have had to be much more still than usual, so art has engaged a long-sleeping part of my brain.

Peter Kray

Playing the piano. Longer dog walks. And almost no TV.

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FLATLANDS SEEK I N G S O L I T U D E, B I R DS , A N D N E W P ER SP E C T I V E S O N T H E W I D E A N D EM P T Y CO LO R A D O P R A I R I E I N T H E AG E O F COV I D -1 9. by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

hose of us who love these Colorado mountains often forget about the vast space to the east. It’s impassable, unthinkable, an ocean. But that is exactly why I wanted to go there as these pandemic restrictions began to ease up in the Centennial State. After spending three months obeying stay-at-home orders and only hiking, running, and biking as far as we could go from our front door, we needed space. But the mountains are not the place to go right now on a weekend. There are crowds cramming every trailhead, most of them seemingly oblivious or simply defiant when it comes to wearing a mask on the trail or practicing social distancing guidelines. Joining that fray just seemed wrong, and as much as I love to get on the water, the idea of going to a lake or reservoir under these conditions on Memorial Day was simply unappealing. So I spent a night studying maps. I found mysteries to the empty east: state wildlife areas along the Platte, stands of trees in the midst of grass and irrigation apparatus, ghost towns, forgotten battlefields. We woke up with the sunrise and headed out seeking birdsong. And we found it out off I-76, a highway where most drivers flirt with 100 mph and pay no heed the seemingly boring terrain all around them. But the grasslands hold secrets.

BIRDLAND: KIERAN SCHNITZSPAHN IS READY FOR ACTION AT THE BRUSH STATE WILDLIFE AREA IN EASTERN COLORADO. photo by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

We pulled off and rambled down a dirt road to the Brush State Wildlife Area, an oasis of still water and cottonwoods surrounded by agriculture and hot, open land. Colorado Parks and Wildlife has built simple concrete platforms here, where anyone can sit and engage in the simple pleasure of seeking that rare bird, or simply taking a breath. (The spot sees more traffic during hunting season, and I remember that it is the fees that bird hunters pay that supports these spots and funding for wildlife). A flight of kingbirds greeted us, their yellow bellies flashed as they flitted to the branches. We spotted a pair of Bullock’s orioles. A red wing hawk soared above, as did several turkey vultures. As much as I love outdoor recreation, it felt good to discover the type of place that is not clogged with fast-paced adventure junkies like me. It felt so right in the midst of all this fear and uncertainty to be somewhere that felt so deeply away from it all. But it is impossible to escape. Out here in Morgan County the pandemic has been at its worst in Colorado. We stay away from any contact and I wonder how these towns will survive. The remnants of the Dust Bowl are everywhere here. And that is another gift this place can give you in tough times, a reminder that life can be very hard, but there’s a strength beyond our world of constant social media and business that has dealt with worse and we will endure.

CAN YOU RUN WITH THE HORSES?

17th Annual Run with the Horses Marathon Saturday, August 15, 2020 10K | Half | Full Marathon Sponsored by:

www.TourWyoming.com

runwiththehorsesmarathon.com | sign up on runnercard.com J U N E - J U LY 2 0 2 0 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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N EED TO G E T AWAY C LOSE TO H O M E ? S TA N D - U P PA D D L EB OA R D A N G L I N G I S Q U I E T, E A S I ER T H A N YO U T H I N K , A N D CO M P L I A N T W I T H S O C I A L D I S TA N C I N G .

PHOTO BY SCOTT CRAMER

It’s surprrisingly easy to snap a selfie

while casting a line from a SUP. But for old pros, SUP fishing offers practical advantages, including silent trolling and swift access to otherwise unreachable stretches of trout-filled water. Curious? Minturn Anglers (minturnanglers.com)— which operates shops in Minturn and Lone Tree—delivers private, customtailored SUP fishing trips, though guide manager Tyler Banker recommends newbies test their balance on flatwater first. Consistent with Governor Polis’s latest safer-at-home orders, Front Rangers can launch paddleboards at their local reservoirs. Experienced SUPers looking to cast a line sans guide can rent fishing equipment from Minturn Anglers and Eagle County customers at the shop and get access to Minturn Anglers’ private ranch, Sweetwater. Denverites going solo should head to the Aurora and Quincy reservoirs, where gas motors are prohibited—but the Cherry Creek and Chatfield reservoirs are solid options, too. Jefferson County residents stationed near Pine can visit Banker’s favorite fishing hole, Wellington Lake. SUP fishing enthusiast and guide Ken Hoeve says the Eagle River also has plenty of beginner-friendly segments—just make sure you’re prepared with a PFD and some general knowledge of what’s downstream. —Jamie Siebrase IN THE FLOW: SUP ATHLETE KEN HOEVE AND HIS DOG, CHIP, LAND A LARGE TROUT ON THE EAGLE RIVER IN GYPSUM, COLORADO. HOEVE RELIES ON HIS BOARD TO ACCESS OTHERWISE DIFFICULT-TO-REACH WATER.

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STELLAR ADVENTURES C EL EB R AT E CO LO R A D O’ S DA R K SK Y M O N T H BY G A ZI N G AT T H E S TAT E’ S S TA R K E S T, M OS T DA Z ZL I N G CO N S T EL L AT I O N S . I’M DEEPLY AT EASE IN THE MEDITATION

the National Park Service (NPS) Intermountain Region Natural Sounds and Night Skies Coordinator. “Dark skies reconnect us with something we lost—through urbanization, over the past five decades—in places where the conditions support sky preservation and observation,” he adds. Some NPS areas have experienced an uptick in astronomy-seekers. “June 2019 was an especially busy month for night sky viewing, with more than 100 visitors some evenings,” says Katherine Faz, Chief of Interpretation and Visitor Services at Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. Star stewardship also catalyzes economic benefits. According to the September 2019 report, “Dark Sky Tourism: Economic Impact on the Colorado Plateau Economy,” nonlocal tourists will spend $5.8 billion in Colorado Plateau gateway communities over the next decade. The sector will stimulate $2.4 billion in wages and more than 10,000 new jobs each year region-wide—in part, because star exploration is sustainable year-round. Cold winter air is more transparent, offering optimal views. As Bradburn says, nodding to Shakespeare, “Sitting under a ‘canopy of golden fire’ restores the soul—all you have to do is turn the lights off.” —Morgan Tilton

TECHNOLOGY PAMU SLIDE MINI WIRELESS EARPHONES

These little in-ear headphones offer incredible sound quality, a secure fit, and the option of USB-C or wireless Qi charging. The headphones work in tandem or independently and taptouch controls prove gentle on the ears. A single charge lasts for 30 hours of playback. $56 | PADMATE-TECH.COM

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MAKING A DIFFERENCE T H E SE O U T D O O R I N D US T RY P L AY ER S A R E S T EP P I N G U P TO P ROV I D E PA N D EM I C R EL I EF EFF O RT S . FROM MANUFACTURING PIVOTS TO

produce personal protective equipment, to monetary, food, and even underwear donations to frontline workers, many of our favorite outdoor companies have jumped into the battle against COVID-19. Few have taken the effort as seriously as Outdoor Research (outdoorresearch. com), which, way back in March when most of us were stocking up on toilet paper, made the decision to fully convert its onshore manufacturing facility to become an FDA-approved Class II medical mask maker. Now, the producers of our favorite jackets also assemble N95 respirator masks and ASTM level 3 masks, in addition to fabric face masks. Once at full production capacity, OR will churn out upwards of 200,000 masks per day, most of which will be distributed by state and federal authorities, including the U.S. Department of Defense, while theirs will go to first responders like the Seattle Police Department. BlackStrap (bsbrand.com) is another noteworthy example. Known for its snow and sun face coverings, the company

GEAR WE LOVE TRIP TARP

Backpackers who like to organize their gear pretrip will love the Trip Tarp. The lightweight (8.6oz.) sheet features zones marked to help organize all the items you will need according to the handy packing list printed on the tarp itself. Once out in the wild, use the tarp as a shelter or ground cloth. $60 | TRIPTARP.COM

SUMMER OF DISTANCE: BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON NATIONAL PARK IS IDEAL FOR DARK SKY MONTH (THIS PAGE). COTOPAXI FACILITATES JOY (OPPOSITE LEFT). GLAMPING FAR FROM THE CROWDS (OPPOSITE RIGHT).

altered operations in the first week of April, soon after the CDC approved the use of cloth face coverings for Covid protection. In just a few days, BlackStrap transitioned from making balaclavas and goggle covers for Fall 2020 to mass producing face masks. Today, its production has ramped up enough to allow shipments of more than 10,000 masks per day. “As a face mask company in a pandemic, it’s partial obligation [to support the protection effort]” says BlackStrap brand manager Jim Sanco. “We should definitely be the ones doing it right.” That commitment extends both to those in need and to the environment. For every mask bought through its website, BlackStrap donates one to community organizations and individuals in need. And thanks to the brand’s zero-waste initiative, the masks, which are primarily made from scrap material, have prevented more than 90,000 pounds of fabric from entering the landfill. In addition to raising money for frontline workers in its native state of Utah, the gear gurus at Cotopaxi (cotopaxi.com) have sought to help the outdoor community combat the

BOOKS MOON COLORADO CAMPING: THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO TENT AND RV CAMPING EO contributor Joshua Berman’s (see page 11) latest roundup explores 480 campgrounds, RV parks, and camp resorts across the state. The book rates each site, lists amenities and reservation info, and features a nuts-and-bolts advice section for veteran and first-time campers alike. $20 | MOON.COM

TYLER NORDGREN

chapel, warmed by the fireplace and reverberating chant music. My partner Eric and I are at Rancho Bendito, a sanctuary we found via Dark Skies Vacations, a collection of stay-overs with clear panoramas of the Milky Way, located in Colorado’s Sangre de Cristos. Earlier this evening, we learned about the zone’s dark sky history from our host, architect Jim Bradburn, who designed this property, inspired by the universe, for “inner and outer observation.” For a decade, Bradburn was president of Dark Skies of the Wet Mountain Valley (darkskiescolorado. org), a Crestone-based nonprofit dedicated to dark sky protection. We’re here to celebrate Colorado’s Dark Sky Month, inaugurated in June 2019. The proclamation, issued by Governor Jared Polis, aims to encourage statewide celebration of unpolluted skies, an activity that certainly follows social distancing protocols and may be enhanced by less pollution and air traffic this month. The celestial bowl is a universal source of scientific discovery, inspiration, heritage, and connection to nature, according to the designation, which is also meant to raise awareness for the environmental, economic, and health factors of light pollution. At least 30 percent of outdoor lighting in the U.S. is wasted with unnecessary costs—$3.3 billion—and 21 million tons of carbon dioxide, per year, according to The International DarkSky Association (IDA, darksky.org). Founded in 1988, the nonprofit works globally to preserve dark skies and combat light pollution. To date, the IDA has certified more than 130 places for their conservation of darkness. “Astrotourism recognizes the inherent, traditional values of night sky,” says Randy Stanley,

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY COTOPAXI, JOSHUA BERRMAN, COURTESY ERIN PARISI

isolation of necessary social distancing measures. Cotopaxi’s recent Questival Quaranteam virtual scavenger hunt encouraged online socialization (not to mention good old-fashioned belly laughter) through challenges such as creating a dating site profile for a pet. This effort—which Annie Agle, Cotopaxi’s director of brand and impact, dubs “facilitating joy”—raised close to $20,000 for pandemic relief efforts. All three brands are putting action behind intention during the Covid-19 pandemic. “At the end of the day, companies are people,” Agle says. “I think every person should be engaged around this issue if they’re able.” Wondering which other brands are helping out? Check out coverage at elevationoutdoors.com —Courtney Holden

CAMP AND GLAMP YO U ’ L L FI N D M O R E WAG O N S , Y U RT S , A N D V I N TAG E T R A I L ER S AT T H E SE T H R EE P R I VAT E C A M P G RO U N DS . C H E C K S O C I A L D I S TA N C I N G R E G U L AT I O N S A N D H E A D TO O N E T H I S SU M M ER . Boulder Adventure Lodge, or A-Lodge, is just up Boulder Canyon from Boulder and is a combination hotel, hostel, and campground. In addition to indoor accommodations, it has four tent campsites on wood platforms built into the slope behind the main lobby, and parking spots for campervans. All guests have access to bathrooms, showers, WiFi, craft beers on tap, and pleasant common spaces and games. A-Lodge also rents decked-out Mercedes Sprinter vans as part of activity-based packages that include nights in both the van and at the lodge. a-lodge.com

Dolores River Campground, near Cortez, is a family-run oasis in southwest Colorado, the perfect stopover between the Four Corners region and the San Juan Mountains. Stay in one of 78 tent or RV sites, or a yurt, cabin, vintage trailer, or covered Conestoga wagon. Bathhouses, laundry, a large common rec hall, food trucks, and social events complete the package. doloresrivercampground.com Platte River Fort Event Center and Campground, outside Kersey, is an unlikely location on the plains (it’s a one-hour drive to either Denver, Rocky Mountain National Park, or Cheyenne, Wyo., and only 25 miles to Pawnee National Grasslands). In addition to tent/RV sites, a covered wagon, and a furnished farmhouse, there are six onion-shaped Lotus Belle tents on a grassy bank of the South Platte River, in a lush floodplain separated from the main lodge by a 1-minute drive past a small Longhorn cattle herd. platteriverfort.com River Run RV Resort, in Granby, opened in 2019 as a “RV, camping, cabin rental, and glamping resort,” and is one of the most modern, amenity-filled campgrounds in Colorado. There are over 400 RV, camping and vacation rental options, including covered Conestoga wagons, yurts, “adventure tents,” and fully furnished cabins with kitchens. 888-814-7202. Echo Canyon Campground is in the Royal Gorge Region, an unsung destination with rafting and scenic trains through the Royal Gorge itself. Premium tent campsites have views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, as do the luxury wall tents and modern, multi-level “cabins.” The canvas-walled glamping tents come with queen beds, luxury linens, blankets, pillows, and towels, plus picnic tables and fire rings. royalgorgecabins.com —Joshua Berman

LOCAL HERO: ERIN PARISI O N T H E TA L L E S T P E A K S T H ER E A R E N O SH A D OW S . FOR ERIN PARISI, A TRANSGENDER ATHLETE FROM DENVER , the lack of shadows is

what draws her to the world’s highest peaks. “The trans community has long been marginalized. On the highest peaks there’s nothing that can cast a shadow on your life,” she says. Currently Parisi’s on a bid to become the first reported transgender climber to top out on all Seven Summits and has only Everest, Vinson Massif in Antarctica, and Denali to go before she does. With support from REI and Merrell, Parisi is the executive director of TranSending (transending7.org), a nonprofit dedicated to promoting athletics as a platform of transgender awareness and inclusion. She’s laserfocused on increasing the visibility of LGBTQ people in the outdoors, holding fundraisers, giving public talks, and coordinating partnerships with like-minded state and national organizations. While Parisi’s plans to climb Denali and Mt. Vinson have been delayed due to Covid-19, she continues to fundraise and train, often pulling a sled weighed down with jugs of water. “I’m leading by example to show that trans people have a place in the outdoors,” she says. “We will boldly proclaim, from the highest point on every continent, that we are proud, able, and will hide no longer.” —Jeff Blumenfeld

TRANSCENDENT : ERIN PARISI IS PROUD TO BRING THE IMAGE OF TRANS PEOPLE IN THE OUTDOORS OUT INTO THE LIGHT.

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QUICK GETAWAY: FREMONT CANYON, WYOMING

LEARN TO CAST… IN YOUR BACKYARD

With so many of us spending more time at home than we expected this summer, Orvis Adventures (orvis. com/fly-fishing-schools) has launched programs that promise to keep you busy and improve your outdoor skills. The perfect fly cast is always tricky business, and often essential when it comes to enticing selective fish to strike, as is the know-how of what fly to use and

when to strike an indicator—but these two packages give you at-home video analysis, one-on-one instruction, and indepth feedback from Orvis instructors. If you’re looking to save some cash, Orvis is sharing valuable content on its YouTube channel (bit.ly/3cQXAOp) and hosting weekly fly-tying workshops via Facebook Live videos (facebook. com/orvis). That should be more than enough instruction to impress when you are back on the water with friends. —Doug Schnitzspahn

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When you think of paddling, Wyoming might not be top of mind—but this dry state is a paddler’s dream. One of the its best-kept secrets, Fremont Canyon is located near Casper and is just waiting to be explored. While it’s named for the place where explorer John C. Freemont capsized his raft (he and his crew later made it to St. Louis on foot), modernday kayakers and fly anglers will most likely have better luck here. Float the waters of the North Platte at the base of beautiful rock walls that rise high on either side of the river (it’s a good place for climbing, too). From June through September (the ideal time to visit), Fremont Canyon is best accessed from Alcova Reservoir. Bring your own kayak, canoe, or stand-up paddleboard, or rent from Alcova Resort and pack a lunch (or grab one from Grant Street Grocery in Casper) so you can munch with spectacular views. —Katie Coakley TIME TO HIT THE WATER : ORVIS'S VIRTUAL CASTING PROGRAMS WILL PRIME Y0U FOR WHEN YOU CAN GET BACK OUT (LEFT). W YOMING'S LONELY FREMONT CANYON OFFERS THE IDEAL ESCAPE (RIGHT). / PHOTOS COURTESY ORVIS (LEFT), BY K ATIE COAKLEY (RIGHT)

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THE COLORADO RIVER

Waterworld PA D D L I N G I S A S A F E SPORT FOR SOCIAL D I S TA N C I N G ( I F YO U F O L LO W R E G U L AT I O N S ) AND JUST THE KICK WE ALL NEED THIS S U M M E R . TO T H AT E N D, W E P R E S E N T T H E NUMBERS WHEN IT C O M E S TO G E T T I N G O U T O N T H E WAT E R . by TRACY ROSS As far as we’re concerned, there’s no better way to experience the wilderness than on a multi-day trip in a boat with a cooler packed full of gourmet eats and fizzy drinks. We’re not alone: In 2018, 22.9 million Americans took to the plentiful rivers, creeks, streams, lakes, and oceans of our country to canoe, kayak, raft, standup paddle board and, we’re certain, packraft, although those lucky souls aren’t listed in Outdoor Industry Association’s 2019 Special Report on Paddlesports & Safety. We’re guessing it’s probably because they’re too busy hiking to one of the most remote headwaters in Alaska, getting ready to inflate their crafts and explore uncharted waters.

1.5 million

PHOTOS BY DOUG SCHNITZPAHN

Western U.S. that require a permit acquired only in a random lottery, including The Selway, The Rogue, The Smith, The San Juan, and The Rio Chama. Here’s the bad news: Your chances of getting one, on the lower end, are in the single digits, while on the higher end they’re still in the 8 to 12 percent range. The good news: Rivers—especially those in wilderness areas—are still the best way to see the wildest places with the least amount of people sticking their elbows in your face.

Hispanic paddlers since 2013.

6.1 Hours

53 Percent Ratio of male paddlers in 2018. Male participation, however, is declining at about one percent per year, and female participation is increasing by the same amount.

of streams and rivers running through the state of Colorado, earning it the nickname “the mother of rivers.” Another 2,000 lakes and reservoirs dot our home state. Much of that water flows into 17 other states and Mexico, explaining why we’re so cranky about our own water.

13: Number of rivers in the

773,000: Increase in

The increase in SUP participants since 2013, due to the increase in inflatable boards, which are infinitely easier to transport than hard-material ones. On a SUP like NRS’s Beast (big enough to handle 8-10 paddlers, according to the company), you can kneel in a Class III rapid, use a borrowed kayak paddle to run it, and then stand back up once you’re through—or stand the whole way: up to you.

INFLATABLE SUPS

1950S: The decade fiberglass kayaks were first

introduced to the U.S., quickly replacing wooden or fabric versions. Kayaking gained acclaim in the 1976 Montreal Olympics, with men (only) in styrofoam helmets whipping through gates in the Notre Dame “rowing basin.” Today, 2.6 million people in the United States participate in some form of whitewater kayaking, with a 126 percent participation increase among children ages six to 12 since 2013.

1,450 miles

Length of the Colorado River from its source north of Granby Colorado to its terminus between Baja, Mexico, and the Mexican mainland. While you can’t boat the entire thing from start to finish without portaging a great deal—including, sadly, 15 dams—you can get down most of it. The most famous section, of course, is the 277-mile stretch through the Grand Canyon. Which can be done blind—if you’re Erik Weihenmayer.

eighteen

Number of Colorado rivers worth their acre-feet in boating, like the upper section of the Roaring Fork, near Aspen, which is known as “Slaughterhouse” and has one of Colorado’s few commercially rafted waterfalls.

July 1940:

Month and year the first successful whitewater rafting expedition launched —through the Snake River Canyon—in a homemade/WWI surplus rubber raft.

10,000: Number of

people who apply for a noncommercial lotterybased river permit on the Yampa River annually.

The average amount of time paddlers take to pack for, prep for, and drive to a paddling destination— which is hilarious, because the length of an average paddling trip is just four hours. Participants are heading to lakes and rivers the most, followed by oceans, ponds, and streams. And the vast majority—77 percent—are content to take on day trips, while only 11 percent bite off multiday trips, and 9 percent do single overnighters.

Five

Number of kayak parks in Colorado—in Fort Collins, Glenwood, Denver, Buena Vista, and Golden. Not to be outdone, Ohio has three whitewater parks, two in Harrison and one in Springfield.

95 million acre-feet:

300

20,000: Number of

January 31

Amount of water Colorado generates, through rain and snowfall, annually.

people who boat the Colorado through the Grand Canyon each year.

Number of private permits issued on the Yampa River annually.

The last day, annually, that you can put in for a permit to run the Yampa. Mark your calendar now.

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Redefining Water THE AUTHOR WADES THROUGH THE MURK Y POLITICS THAT DETERMINE WHICH WATERS OF THE UNITED STATES ARE WORTH PROTECTING AND WHY THE FIGHT MUST CONTINUE. by EMMA ATHENA

y first memory is of water. Sitting bare-bummed in our backyard, inside Daisy-the-dog’s big blue water bowl. I am splashing. I must’ve crawled in there, or been placed there as a joke—dog saliva and hose water a solution to the hot swelter of California’s summer suns. I was raised to think about water. Me: born on a clear night a few miles from the Pacific Ocean, delivered straight into the tail-end of a Golden State megadrought. If Sonoma Valley of the 90s was dry golden grass and not-flushing the toilet after every pee, I was a frizzy ponytail with endless why-this, why-that kid questions—born thirsty, for knowledge, for change. Which is why, perhaps, my ears pricked up earlier this spring, when I heard the voice of Andrew Wheeler, the head of the Environmental Protection

Agency (EPA), bragging on the radio, boasting about how effective the EPA has been at deregulation—the process of removing rules, I thought, how paradoxical: a federal agency sworn to protect, now proud of abandon, of rolling back the covers, of leaving environments more exposed than before. That day on the radio in April, Wheeler was talking specifically about water. He confirmed that the EPA, in conjunction with the Army Corps of Engineers, had finalized a new definition for “waters of the United States” (WOTUS) as it relates to the nation’s Clean Water Act—the primary federal law that governs water pollution in the U.S. For three years, the agencies had chipped away at a new definition, trimming and reducing its scope so that national pollutionregulating rules would apply to fewer streams, wetlands, ground waters, and headwaters. It was a redefinitioning project on which President Trump had campaigned. In exchange for support from the agriculture, natural resources, manufacturing, automobile, and real estate development industries, he had promised fewer rules, cheaper policies, and faster procedures when it came to land use around the country. Within the first month of taking office, Trump followed through: He signed an executive order demanding the EPA review WOTUS, and while it took

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more than three years of political maneuvering, here Wheeler was, on the eve of Earth Day 2020, finally announcing the agencies’ success. Beginning on June 22, a new definition of “waters of the U.S.” will take effect, one that now excludes thousands of miles of streams throughout Western states. My ears rang. How can a water molecule—stoic and stable as time itself—be deemed worthy of protection from pollution in one place or in one form, but not in another? My mind churned. Doesn’t it all come back together in the end?

The Debate

My childhood springs were spent catching tadpoles in the creek, watching over our neighborhood nopales and sunflowers as summers bloomed. Our valley was a mix of cow pastures and vineyards, and in the fall, when some of the creeks dried up, I’d explore the irrigation tunnels that wound under the streets, largely unaware of the intricate web of water transportation criss-crossing throughout the West. I eventually moved to Colorado to spend even more time outdoors, recreating in the Rocky Mountain rivers and snow. Water as a precious commodity is just as obvious here as it was in Sonoma, with recurring

DEEP SOURCE: WATER IS A PRECIOUS COMMODITY ON THIS PLANET AND SHOULD BE TREATED AS SUCH IN ALL FORMS. / PHOTO BY LIAM DORAN

educational campaigns and interstate agencies at play. Tunnels underneath the Continental Divide divert and transport water to people across the state. Two thirds of what water flows through Colorado is contracted to other states, including California. While I grew up at the end of the West’s water system, I now live at the beginning. When I first moved to Colorado, I didn’t know much about the Clean Water Act, how it protects “waters of the U.S.” from various forms of industrial, agricultural, and municipal pollution—like fertilizers, pesticides, sewage, and mineral leaks. The CWA provides rules for developers and farmers, requiring permits for certain types of work in proximity to protected waterways, and it outlines regulations on how to dispose of pollutants. While it’s always been clear that the scope of WOTUS includes navigable waters (those big enough for boats, like the Mississippi River, Lake Powell, or various coastal inlets and bays) in addition to their obvious tributaries— it’s never been perfectly clear which smaller streams and more amorphous water bodies, like wetlands and ephemeral creeks, also fall under the designation of WOTUS, and therefore

under the protection of the CWA. Since 1972, when the CWA became one of our country’s first major environmental laws, WOTUS has been a matter of political debate. In the early 2000s, a series of contested Supreme Court cases about the scope of WOTUS brought the debate to the forefront of modern environmental discourse. Without a specific definition for WOTUS written into the CWA, many waterpollution issues involving smaller and ephemeral waterways were left open to interpretation on a case-by-case basis; pro-development lobbyists were constantly pushing for a narrow lens, while pro-environment groups advocated for more inclusivity. It was a seemingly endless game of tug-of-war. The Obama administration decided to set the record straight. They penned the first official definition for “waters of the United States,” and in 2015 incorporated a new rule into the CWA that determined federal regulations did indeed apply to smaller streams, headwaters, and water systems like wetlands and ephemeral creeks so that pollution did not reach larger sources, especially those used for drinking water. At the time, environmentalists praised the 2015 rule for adding clarity to legal situations that were challenging pollution concerns. However, other groups of people, like farmers, oil and gas producers,

property developers, and agriculture lobbyists were quick to argue that the rule stifled economic growth prospects. The American Farm Bureau Federation told The New York Times that farmers would be damaged under the added weight of new permitting paperwork. Thus began a concentrated assault on one of the many environmental policies that the Trump administration would eventually strike down. According to an ongoing New York Times series that keeps track of the Trump administration’s environmental rollbacks, the repeal of the 2015 WOTUS definition is one of 64 successful regulation abolitions in the last four years. Thirty eight more repeals are currently “in progress.”

The Redefinition

While a redefinition of “waters of the U.S.” will affect the health of water systems around the country, waters in the West are perhaps the most vulnerable. The new WOTUS definition excludes ephemeral streams—waterways that only flow after bouts of precipitation—which are not only commonplace, but essential to ecosystems in arid climates like Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona. In Colorado, the U.S. Geological Survey estimates 24 percent of streams are ephemeral; only 32 percent of streams flow year-round, and the rest are intermittent, flowing seasonally and

Without a specific definition for WOTUS written into the CWA, many water-pollution issues involving smaller and ephemeral waterways were left open to interpretation on a case-by-case basis… sometimes dry. In New Mexico and Arizona, only about 7 percent of streams flow year-round. As The Hill recently reported, the Trump administration’s version of the rule will leave much environmental regulation to state and local authorities, and likely “increase the amount of pesticides and other industrial chemicals that leach into streams, wetlands and underground water sources.” It will take years to write new state laws and find funding for regulatory gaps, according to Fresh Water News, a nonpartisan education news group based in Colorado. In a statement, Colorado Attorney General Phil Weiser said the state plans to take legal action to protect the waterways that are no longer subject to federal oversight. “We are pleased the final rule protects important agriculture exemptions and provides continued assurance that states retain authority and primary

responsibility over land and water resources,” he said. “However, the federal government’s decision to remove from federal oversight ephemeral waters, certain intermittent streams, and many wetlands is based on flawed legal reasoning and lacks a scientific basis.” Many environmental organizations throughout the West have already spoken up and set legal recourse in motion. “This is not just undoing the clean water rule promulgated by the Obama administration. This is going back to the lowest level of protection we’ve seen in the last 50 years,” Collin O’Mara, president and CEO of the National Wildlife Federation, said at a press conference. “This is a staggering rollback.” There’s a creek that runs by my house in Boulder, dry in the winter, wet every spring, carrying Rocky Mountain snowmelt from the peaks I can see in the far west when I’m standing at the end of our street. As I wait for legal challenges to Trump and Wheeler’s new rule to crawl through the political machine once again, I want more than memories of playing in on-again off-again creeks. I want futures with my hands in the mud, my kids on the banks, my dogs lapping up ripples. The definition of U.S. water may be subject to rewrites and edits, certain streams may come and go, but there’s no escaping the permanence of our dependence on water, the value of its cleanliness, of its ability to connect us all.

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jed selby T H E F O R M ER P RO K AYA K ER A N D CO - F O U N D ER O F B U EN A V IS TA’ S SO U T H M A I N TA L K S A BO U T H OW T H OSE O F US W H O L I V E TO SO C I A L IZE C A N CO M E B AC K FRO M T H E COV I D -1 9 C R ISIS . by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

ed Selby’s entire life revolves around socializing. The former pro kayaker—a three-time member of the U.S. Freestyle Team—created the vital South Main neighborhood and its community whitewater park in Buena Vista, Colorado, with his sister Katie in 2003. They opened the 20-room Surf Chateau in 2014 and added the 42-room Surf Hotel and Wesley & Rose restaurant and bar to the project, which also includes retail shops and residences, in 2018. South Main won a Wright Award for its forwardthinking vision, and it has served as the poster child for how outdoor recreation can anchor an economy in a mountain town. The hotel includes the Ivy Ballroom concert and event venue, and Selby, a big-time Phish fan, has been instrumental in bringing music and happenings to the town. So it’s no surprise that the COVID-19 crisis has been tough for the still dedicated paddler and rock climber, who has also recently fallen in love with kiteboarding. But Selby is full of ideas and ready for a time when he can get back to high fives. Here’s what he had to tell us about adapting to the current situation.

How hard is the current crisis hitting you and the business? Initially, it was catastrophic. Basically it became illegal to do every single thing that we do. You never run a scenario where your revenue goes to nothing. You might have a recession, you might drop 20% or even 40%, but there's no model scenario where your sales go to zero. So at first it was wildly stressful. My first understanding was that they're

going to shut us down, and then they're going to lend us money. It would have been terrible to just add on a bunch of debt. But I was was shocked to find out there was going to be debt forgiveness. I'm sure the program saved countless businesses. We've been closed for a little over two months, and just opened our doors in late May. And what is making you hopeful about the summer? Airline travel is pretty tenuous at the moment and Buena Vista is a reasonable drive from a lot of places—all of the Front Range, the Midwest, Texas, and Arizona. A lot of people like to come to Colorado in the summer. Our reservations are actually picking up pretty dramatically. We're in a rural small town, mostly focused around outdoor activities, and it's not a densely populated area. You don’t have these congested shared spaces, like you do in Las Vegas or New York City, where you're inside with a lot of people. So I think this is honestly a pretty safe place to go. And it seems like a lot of people are kind of chomping at the bit to get out. What kind of precautions are you taking to be able to reopen and make people feel safe? One challenge is that reopening requires a fairly significant increase in staffing levels. We have always prided ourselves on being a very clean hotel. But we have added disinfection steps and extra staff members who are focused on that task pretty much all the time. We have a brandnew building, and modern building codes require large amounts of fresh air to be brought into the common spaces, and we are going to leave the doors open as often as we can. We are going to increase the quantity of fresh air to the maximum amount and have upgraded our HVAC filters to remove particles. All of our guest rooms luckily have their own HVAC systems with their own fresh air—as well as operable windows and big balconies— so there's no shared air in the sleeping

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rooms. What we want to do is just make everyone feel comfortable. We’re naturally well positioned with tons of open space. We have the river park and trails right outside. So it's pretty easy for people to spread out and have their own space. At the Surf Chateau, you have direct access to the rive park and trails from your room. You never even go into a lobby, you don’t use an elevator. You can walk straight from your car to your door. It’s a great option for people who are high risk or just concerned. We’re also in the process of implementing a mobile check-in system. With the lock system that we have, you can download an app, check in, and fill out your waivers online, and we will text you a room key on your phone, so you can go directly to your room and don’t ever have to talk to anybody. Everyone is taking this seriously. Obviously, there’s all the rules and what the CDC says and then I think theres another level: people may feel uncomfortable and we need to help mitigate that. When guests walk in and see that we have hand sanitizer, that the place is very clean, that the staff are wearing masks—all the little things matter. In my opinion, our job has become cleanliness experts. We have to be hyper-aware of possible transmission points and we need to proactively mitigate them. How do you see Buena Vista and mountain towns in general as being uniquely positioned to bounce back from this? People are becoming a little bit more timid around a lot of the activities and places that attract people to the city. We have some long-term rental houses and apartments here in BV and we've had new tenants who are moving from the city to live here to get away from the crowds. The things that really have built this town—certainly what attracted me to this area—are the river, the trails, the mountains, and that is what people want and need right now.

NEW TRICKS: FORMER PRO KAYAKER, SELBY, WHO WAS A TOP COMPETITOR AT VAIL'S MOUNTAIN GAMES IN THE EARLY 2000S, HAS FOUND A NEW PASSION IN KITEBOARDING. / PHOTO BY JEANNE DES VALLIÈRES

People are going biking, surfing, and playing outdoors. They’re not going to be going to any concerts or any weddings. Since they’re not going to all of these activities that naturally fill up their schedules in an area like this, they will have more free time to recreate outside. Do you still spend a lot of time kayaking? I don’t compete anymore but we have a public whitewater park with five waves on the property that we donated to the city right out the door. And I have been getting out a lot more again recently with my business partner Andre Spino-Smith, who I met as my kayaking partner. One thing I have noticed that's been an incredible change in kayaking recently is that the new creek boats are just unbelievably effective. You just fly over the top of big holes that used to be terrifying. It's remarkable. Creek boats are just so much fun right now. Nothing has ever come close to whitewater kayaking for me—but I have to say, kiteboarding is the first thing that I actually like as much. I never thought I would like another sport as much as kayaking. We were actually down in Mexico kiteboarding all winter and coming back in April when all this hit. We had a huge summer planned here with festivals and all and were about to gear up for it. Instead, it looks like I'll be spending more time than I thought kayaking and kiting on the lakes in the area. What's keeping you going? I’m so curious to just observe the process of people becoming comfortable with getting back together. We're not built to do social distancing. It’s not in our genetics. And everything that I do as a business is based around gathering. I just love people so much. I like to give thousands of high fives. I can’t wait to get back to that.

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Wild Times ELE VATI O N O UTDO O R ’ S G U I D E TO R E SP O N S I B L E R E C R E AT I O N D U R I N G PA N D EM I C R E S T R I C T I O N S A N D R E G U L AT I O N S . by CHRIS KASSAR

t’s going to feel a lot different out there this summer. Most, if not all of our favorite organized events— river festivals, concerts, endurance races, art shows, and everything in between—are canceled through the fall. And even getting away from it all with family (and maybe friends, if you choose) will look rather different this year. Regulations and suggestions change every day, and more and more people are taking to the open road. It’s understandable. We’re all antsy to get out and explore the mountains we call home. We fully understand how important playing outside is for our physical and mental health, but we still have a duty to recreate responsibly and limit the impact we have on other people, nature, and small mountain communities. Here are a few tools to help.

STAY CLOSE TO HOME

We know, this one is tough. Trust us. We are bubbling out of our pots,

too. But even though restrictions are lifting, we believe the most compassionate thing to do is continue to explore local trails and natural areas while avoiding highrisk activities. Guidance suggests that staying within 10 miles of home and limiting travel for recreation is critical to reducing COVID-19’s spread and minimizing the strain of visitors on other communities, SAR, and emergency responders. Read more here: bit.ly/2XlO7s1.

STAY UP TO DATE

If you decide to venture out, make sure you know the rules for wherever you’re headed. Regulations vary from county to county; click your destination on this Safer-At-Home map (counties. coloradogeodev.com/safer.html) to find out what restrictions are in place. Keep track of trail closures, so you can plan adventures accordingly with the Colorado Trail Explorer (COTREX) app (trails.colorado.gov), which now visually depicts closures or alerts when you view details about a trail, trailhead, or visitor center. Through COTREX, Colorado Parks and Wildlife, with help from local, state, and federal partners, is monitoring trail-related COVID-19 closures across Colorado on a daily basis. Curious which state parks are open and/or if there are any restrictions? Visit the CPW Park

Finder map (bit.ly/2zrsT3P) and click on your specific park to to learn about restrictions and other information. Colorado’s national parks plan to reopen in phases. Rocky Mountain NP will begin allowing visitors on May 27, with limited campground occupancy beginning June 4. Sand Dunes NP plans to begin its first phase on June 3. However, nothing is set in stone since the statewide Safer at Home order, which is set to expire on May 27, could always be extended. Get info on all of Colorado’s national parks and monuments here: nps.gov/ state/co/index.htm.

STAY FLEXIBLE

Crowd limits and camping restrictions, like Rocky Mountain National Park’s decision to limit capacity at campgrounds and on shuttles, will mean you will need to plan well in advance and commit to being flexible. Popular parking lots and recreation spots may be closed if they reach capacity, so visit at less popular times and get off the beaten path to avoid crowds. If you do encounter a crowded trailhead, overlook, or spot of interest, head elsewhere and come back another time.

COME PREPARED

Camping, hiking, paddling, fishing, and biking are great ways to socially distance in these times, but getting outdoors responsibly requires more

thinking ahead. Restrooms and trash receptacles may be closed; bring our own TP, hand sanitizer, a portable toilet, and trash bags, and pack out everything you bring in. Bring everything you need to cook your meals, eat them, and properly dispose of leftover waste. No matter what the regs are, do your part by getting all supplies at home (fill your tank, buy all your food, cleaning supplies, hygiene items, etc.) and limit stops on the way to your campsite or destination. By traveling to the great outdoors, recreating, and returning conscientiously, you not only minimize the risk of infecting others or acquiring the virus and bringing it home, but you also leave critical services and supplies for the people who need them, in the towns you pass through. If you must visit an establishment, wear a mask and follow distancing guidelines.

BE COMPASSIONATE

It seems like a no-brainer, but it needs to be said. Regardless of your opinions about how we should be dealing with this as a nation, a state, a county, or an individual, one thing is clear: we are all humans and this is new—and stressful—for all of us. Focus on what unites us—our passion for getting out in nature. A little kindness, patience, and love go a long way in these stressful and odd times.

MASKED RIDING: IT MAY BE HOT AND ANNOYING, BUT IT'S THE RIGHHT THING TO DO. / PHOTO BY RYAN MICHELLE SCAVO

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SUMMER PEAK GEAR 2020

M EE T TH E G E A R TH AT M A K E S US H A PPY. SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER

CONTRIBUTORS: AMELIA ARVESEN, EMMA ATHENA, AARON BIBLE, ROB COPPOLILLO, ADAM CHASE, CHRIS KASSAR, RADHA MARCUM, CAMERON MARTINDELL, RYAN SCAVO, DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN, MORGAN TILTON, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN, ZACH WHITE

wice each year we hand out these coveted Peak Gear Awards to the very best gear we put to the test in the fi eld. How do we determine the winners? Simple. We ask our top contributors—who, we are proud to admit, spend far more time camping, hiking, backpacking, biking, climbing and paddling than they do “working”—to name the best gear they used over the past year. What gear can’t you live without? Which gear changed your life? What products made your adventures better?

YETI

category director for Black Diamond. This harness is built with two new patented designs: AirNET technology for light weight (235 grams) and high breathability and the Infi niti Loop, BD’s new seamless belay loop. Because of its minimalist design, the AirNET harness fi ts in a stuff sack (included) and it takes up minimal room in a pack. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Sport climbing and cragging in the Sierra Nevada foothills. It has become our go-to harness for close-to-home climbing and adventures during the shutdown. $128; blackdiamondequipment.com

TRAILHEAD CHAIR

HOKA ONE ONE

UV-proof, and unbreakable. Featuring double-wall stainless steel construction with a powder coated fi nish, it’s extremely durable and easy to clean. No vanlife photoshoot is complete without one of these bad boys. WHERE WE TOOK IT: We have been backyard testing this chair for weeks during quarantine. $299: yeti.com

WHY IT WON: It’s the perfect combo of

WHY IT WON: It’s comfortable, durable,

SALEWA

MTN TRAINER LITE MID GTX

WHY IT WON: This comfy boot has

already won a bunch of outdoor magazine awards so we were a bit apprehesive about following suit—but several contributors put it on their nomination list and the truth is that it provides the perfect melding of stabilty, springiness, and guts out on the trail. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Last fall, it cruised through a backpacking and fl y-fi shing jaunt in Wyoming's Snowy Range. This spring, it became our social distance standby shoe in Boulder, proving ideal for adventure hikes and scrambles. $200; salewa.com

BLACK DIAMOND AIRNET

WHY IT WON: Adam Ondra’s signature

model harness was built with Olympic competition in mind. So it’s no surprise that the AirNET is “the lightest weight, streamlined harness on the market,” according to Kolin Powick, climbing

BLACK DIAMOND AIRNET

YETI TRAILHEAD CHAIR

HOKA ONE ONE SPEEDGOAT 4

SPEEDGOAT 4

cushioning and stability in a shoe that performs well over techy terrain. The breathable mesh was a godsend and the roomy toe box made it so that we could take on long runs without pain as the result of curled up toes. It offers up tons of grip and the fi t is roomy but not mushy and there are a few ways to tune it in perfectly for your unique foot. Honestly, it feels like you’re running on soft cushiony pillows—so we noticed less impact on our feet and joints over the long haul. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Trail running on the CDT and Colradoo Trail. Up 14ers Mount Yale and Mount Shavano. Daily trail running on S Mountain in Salida. Big days in Moab, Taos, and Rocky Mountain National Park. $145; hokaoneone.com

PIVOT

SWITCHBLADE

WHY IT WON: This incredibly well-

balanced mountain bike has the suspension to play in the bike park, as well as the pedal effi ciency and svelte weight to tackle all day epics. This do-it-all weapon is the perfect trail bike for all but the gnarliest of Colorado's singletrack. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Some of Colorado's best trails, from Front Range classics, to winter hot spots like Canon City, to

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PIVOT SWITCHBLADE

the techiest options in Chaffee County. $5,499; pivotcycles.com

RAB

LIV

WHY IT WON: Carrying a sleeping bag

PIQUE 29 2

WHY IT WON: Lightweight and geometrically optimized for women riders, the Pique 29 2 practically fl ies over dirt, gravel, and rock. With simplifi ed gears and a suspension lock for longer climbs, this bike is simply fast—so fast we accidentally dusted our (male) riding partners on the fi rst long ride of the season. WHERE WE TOOK IT: On every bikeaccessible dirt trail within 10 miles of Boulder. Farther afi eld to Buff alo Creek, and Porcupine Rim. $3,000; liv-cycling.com

MYTHIC ULTRA 180

on a ski-tour or climb is a drag, pure and simple. We love a good night's rest, but having that extra weight and bulk on your back is a bummer while you’re slaying (or just trying not to fl ail!). All that is just to say that this is the lighter, smaller sleeping bag we have been seeking for a decade. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Colorado, France, and Italy. So far we only used it on trips to alpine huts, but we are overjoyed to be headed into bivy season with a sleeping bag that won’t drag us down. $550; rab.equipment

PATAGONIA

STORM RACER

WHY IT WON: This shell is not only

lightweight and breathable, but also uber-ergonomic. The innovative zipper design was the answer to all of our running-whileraining prayers. It’s built for use with a running vest, and the zippers are tailored for taking the jacket on and off while inmotion—making it shockingly easy to shed in a hurry. But the feature that really impessed us was the ease with which you can access your water and snacks through the large neck hole that the twin zippers create. WHERE WE TOOK IT: We put this jacket through the gauntlet out in the Indian Peaks and around Boulder (inclduing an epic run on the Skyline Traverse). $249.patagonia.com

LIV PIQUE 29

PATAGONIA STORM RACER

ARC’TERYX

WHY IT WON: We have tested every

version of synthetic insulation on the market for the last dozen years and the Arc’teryx Atom is by far the most versatile in terms of the temperature range it can handle and breathability. It’s also one of the best fi tting jackets of all time, and looks good enough to wear out to dinner in town (whenever that will be the norm again). WHERE WE TOOK IT: Cool summer nights at concerts, around campfi res, alpine skiing, alpine climbing. We used it as a mid layer and a puff y, year round, making it our single most reliable go-to insulating piece. $229; arcteryx.com

CLUB RIDE MOUNTAIN SURF SHORT

CLUB RIDE

GARMIN FENIX 6S

MOUNTAIN SURF SHORT

WHY IT WON: These shorts give

ARC'TERYX ATOM SL HOODY

KELTY GET YOUR SH*T TOGETHER (GYST) SYSTEM

KELTY

GET YOUR SH*T TOGETHER (GYST) SYSTEM

WHY IT WON: These collapsible storage bags are the best organization system we’ve ever used. Once you’re done with them, they collapse fl at and can be stored almost anywhere. The fabric is durable and water resistant and they come in multiple sizes, so you can stack them or pack them together to fi t any space. The zippered bags proved ideal as an "offi ce" in our van. WHERE WE TOOK IT:

ATOM SL HOODY

RAB MYTHIC ULTRA 180

for smaller-stature people (women especially). It connects seamlessly to Strava and tracks a wide range of activities (including hiking and biking) as well as steps, and heart rate. And it gives a clear on-wrist map view. WHERE WE TOOK IT: It made social distancing and adventure close to home fun... and trackable. $800; garmin.com

the appearance of propriety with an underlying sense of sporty mischievousness. The technical, quickto-dry, durable yet supple fabric, bikeseat-friendly butt, zippered pockets, and internal Velcro waist adjustments all add up to the perfect combination. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Commuting to the offi ce, out to dinner, overseas travel, and on the occasional run to a meeting, when we were late. $80; clubride.com

GARMIN

FENIX 6S (SAPPHIRE)

WHY IT WON: The low profi le on this

wrist-op makes it an incredible fi t

Everywhere from Colorado to California. $15-90; ketly.com

SENA

R1 EVO

WHY IT WON: Bike

riding can be social again without risking being right next to each other. The hands-free voice connection in this helmet not only allows you to talk to other riders—you can also make and pickup phone calls or listen to FM radio. WHERE WE TOOK IT: Road riding

around Boulder. $500; sena.com

HALA

RIVAL HOSS

WHY IT WON:

The Rival Hoss is the one social distancing fun tool that can get you through a full summer of adventure no matter if it's close to home or farther afi eld. The infl atable is stable enough for still lakes and maneuverable enouogh for rapids. WHERE WE TOOK IT:

SENA R1 EVO

Boulder Reservoir and Gross Reservoir for fl atwater. The Colorado River for some action. $1,199; halagear.com

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LOC A L G E A R SHOP S A RE EM ERG I N G FRO M TH E COV I D -19 SH UTDOW N A N D A DJ US TI NG TO A N U NCERTA I N FU TU RE. H ERE’ S HOW YOU C A N SU PP O RT TH EM . by DONNY O’NEILL

he coronavirus pandemic dealt a serious blow to brickand-mortar retailers that were forced to close their doors to prevent the spread of the virus. But outdoor retailers are as resilient as they come and they’ve found creative ways to survive in this difficult atmosphere. As stay-at-home restrictions ease, several of our favorite shops are reopening with precautions in place. Here’s how they’ve handled business

during the pandemic, and how outdoor recreationists can support them moving forward.

NEPTUNE MOUNTAINEERING

B O U L D ER , CO LO R A D O; N EP T U N EM O U N TA I N EER I N G .CO M IN-PERSON SHOPPING: Neptune

reopened to in-person shopping on May 14, with reduced store hours, a limit of 10 people inside at one

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time, face-mask and hand sanitizer requirements, and a plexiglass barrier between the cashier and customer. With intimate interactions like footwear fitting, Neptune is “talking people through how to measure their own foot on a Brannock device, and talking them through how the boot should fit,” according to co-owner Shelley Dunbar. SHOP ONLINE : Neptune launched its new website in December. “That’s how we’ve been surviving, our website made us better and stronger,” says Dunbar. “Even though it was a panic to get everything up there, we’re going to be better off for it in the future.” FUTURE PLANS: Local mandates will dictate when Neptune can open its cafe and continue its in-store events; the store is considering virtual shopping experiences in the meantime. Its annual September ski

MAKING THE MOST OF IT: THE CREW AT ALAMOSA’S KRISTI MOUNTAIN SPORTS SHOWS A LITTLE BIT OF LEVITY—AND BOOSTS IT UP A NOTCH WITH A CLASSIC EO TEE (TOP). BOULDER’S NEPTUNE MOUNTAINEERING CULT FOLLOWING CAME BACK TO THE STORE TO BUY UP NEW NECKWARMERS THAT CAN SERVE AS MASKS ON THE TRAIL OR FASHION STATEMENTS IN THE AISLES (BOTTOM).

swap, a Boulder favorite, is still up in the air. “That’s an outdoor event where we have tents in the parking lot, so we’re not saying for certain that we won’t do it,” says Dunbar. “Do we do it and make sure everyone is wearing masks, social distancing, and sanitizing their gear? It's fraught with some concern, so it’s to be determined.” BIG SELLER: “Our new Neptune logo tube-style neck gaiters have been a huge hit,” says Dunbar.

FROM TOP: COURTESY RALEIGH BERT, COURTESY NEPTUNE MOUNTAINEERING

Brick-andMortar Resiliency

WILDERNESS EXCHANGE

D EN V ER , CO LO R A D O; W I L D ER N E S S X .CO M

Wilderness Exchange re-opened its doors on May 15, with a limited in-store occupancy of 10 customers, widened aisles, and sanitation stations throughout. The store is executing gear fittings through a mirrored approach: Customers try on backpacks and shoes at a distance, and employees walk them through the process. “Friday was one of the most memorable days I’ve had in 20 years of business,” says owner Don Bushey. “A lot of customers just came out to see us and it was humbling to see how much opening meant to so many people—from our staff to the community.” SHOP ONLINE: Wilderness Exchange is still encouraging customers to shop online or via phone and then pick up in-store, to help limit occupancy. “We’ve gone the extra step of saying we can have your order ready within two hours of placing it during business hours.” FUTURE PLANS: During the 2008 recession, Wilderness Exchange actually saw an uptick in business, so it’s relying on its mission to provide affordable gear while in an economic downturn again this time round. “We’ve had twenty years of building a profitable business. This year isn’t about profitability but putting people first, keeping our heads on, and being there for the community,” says Bushey.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY DON BUSHEY, COURTESY HOBACK SPOERTS, COURTESY BENTGATE MOUNTAINEERING

IN-PERSON SHOPPING:

BENTGATE MOUNTAINEERING

G O L D EN , CO LO R A D O; B EN TG AT E .CO M IN-PERSON SHOPPING: On

Monday, May 11, Bentgate opened to in-person shopping, with a limit of 10 people in the store at a time, including employees. The shop has implemented a quarantine policy for products customers come in contact with, sanitizing those products and removing them from the shop floor for three days, per CDC guidance.“Someone will meet you at the door and guide you through the gear experience,” says John Weir, retail manager at Bentgate. “Despite the restrictions, it’s not too far off from what our ideal shopping experience would be for the customers as far as having the one-on-one attention.” SHOP ONLINE: “We’ve revamped some of our internet sales but also increased our capacity to handle call-in customers, because we do find that internet shopping experience leaves a lot of questions unanswered, especially for people who are unfamiliar with the gear,” says Weir. FUTURE PLANS: Bentgate is known for its community events, and plans to pivot to a virtual experience moving forward. “During the month of April we teamed up with Denver Mountain Guides and Wild Country and we were helping them promote online courses,” says Weir. “We were getting orders using coupon codes from New Jersey and

Washington… people who wouldn’t normally be part of our customer base.” BIG SELLER: “We are seeing a pick up of backpacking due to people trying to get away and/or be socially distant," says Weir, who notes that Bentgate is celebrating its 25th year in business and will be offering special deals and promos all of June.

PLAYING THE GAME: WILDERNESS EXCHANGE OWNER DON BUSHEY HITS IT HARD (LEFT). HOBACK SPORTS HAS BEEN BUSY WITH BIKE REPAIRS (RIGHT). BENTGATE IS MOVING BACKPACKS (BOTTOM).

KRISTI MOUNTAIN SPORTS

Hoback re-opened on May 11, with face-mask requirements and disposable masks available for those who show up without them. The store has taken a one-on-one approach to help control the social distancing inside. “We’re having one customer or family unit with one employee,” says Tom Athey, marketing and events coordinator. “We’re greeting them at the door, controlling the amount of people in the store, and doing one-on-one with them to make sure we’re all social distancing and not mingling, and we keep an eye on what people are doing.” Bike rentals are done via a “drive-through” lane next to the shop, where customers can call in and the staff will bring bikes out to them. SHOP ONLINE: While Hoback doesn’t focus on e-commerce sales, it had a lot of success selling over the phone and email during the closure, and plans to continue that for people uncomfortable with coming into the store. “It’s a staple we’re adding to our repertoire. Everyone has a different comfort level right now and our goal is to meet that expectation,” says Athey. FUTURE PLANS: “We’re focused on getting summer going, adding services as we have plans and practices in place,” says Athey. “We want sanitation practices on point and above expectations. If things start looking better, we may lax restrictions, but we’re looking to the county [for guidance]. The biggest thing is everything is a little harder and takes a little longer, so we just need some patience and to not overwhelm ourselves.”

A L A M O S A , CO LO R A D O; K R I S T I M O U N TA I N S P O RT S .CO M

Since it sells bikes, Kristi was deemed an essential business under the stay-at-home order, and permitted to stay open. As the weather warmed, the shop’s cycling business skyrocketed, and it was able to keep all of its employees staffed and busy. “We’ve never seen traffic like this before,” says Raleigh Burt, business development manager. “We’ve already sold almost an entire summer’s worth of bikes.” The shop has implemented a barrier at the front door to vet customers and deem whether it’s necessary for them to enter, and group sizes are limited to two people. FUTURE PLANS: With its close proximity to Great Sand Dunes National Park, Kristi rents out a huge number of sandboards, but halted rentals during the stay-at-home order. Moving forward, it plans to ramp up that business again, but that also brings a new set of challenges with out-of-towners flocking to the store. “A lot of people are coming from all over the nation and that just poses a new risk,” says Burt. “Our traffic right now has all been local, but when the sandboarding kicks back in we’ll have to find ways to keep people as healthy and safe as possible as we’re mixing the pot more than we have in the past few weeks.” BIG SELLER: Scott’s Contessa Active hardtail mountain bike ($499). “Girls want bikes!” says Burt. IN-PERSON SHOPPING:

HOBACK SPORTS

J AC K S O N , W YO M I N G; H O B AC K S P O RT S .CO M IN-PERSON SHOPPING:

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T H E T R AV E L S E R I E S / W YO M I N G

t he

WYOMING t ravel gu i de

The Cowboy State may be just a few hours north of Denver, but it feels like it’s a world away. That’s because Wyoming has held on to its authenticity. The state’s wide-open spaces still give you the feel of a West that you can explore without the crowds. Adventure here is rugged and real, sprinkled with towns and communities where you can wind down—and all of it is easy to access. As things open up this summer, it’s the perfect destination for responsible recreation. To that end, we suggest you point the grill north, travel safe, and discover a new beautiful place to find yourself.

Photo Courtesy Visit Cheyenne / Allen Meyer

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SHERIDAN STEP INTO THE WILDERNESS OF THE WEST. THIS TOWN HAS AN OUTDOOR ADVENTURE FOR EVERYONE.

heridan, Wyoming is where the Wild West and the popular West meet in a spectacular cultural collision. Here beneath the backdrop of the dramatic Bighorn Mountains, the echoes of that confluence are still ringing strong. This is one of the most authentic Western cities in the U.S. Stories of gunfights and saloon brawls adorn the town itself, which is a beautiful mountain ranching community today. It’s peaceful and serene—the kind of place that makes you want to put your feet up and stay a while, listening to the songs of the Rocky Mountain swallows and chickadees. Venture just outside town, though, and you enter a wide world of recreation. From downtown, you’re only 30 minutes away from hiking Soldier Ridge, South Piney Canyon or Tongue River Canyon. Or, for the more ambitious scramblers, Cloud Peak offers unrivaled views of the surrounding area. At 13,171 feet, this is the highest summit in

the Bighorns and the scenery from the top is well-worth the effort of the climb. You can even make it a multinight backpacking adventure. For rock climbers, the Bighorn Mountain range is a massive playground, full of routes varying in length and difficulty. For mountain bikers Bighorn National Forest encompasses thousands of miles of single-track trails to explore. For fly fishermen there’s the deep runs of the Tongue River, Piney Creek and Bighorn Lake, all loaded with walleye, sauger, ling, perch, browns, and rainbow trout. Of course, the camping in and around Sheridan is also abundant. Unlike other popular outdoor destinations, though, you likely won’t have to share your outdoor space with too many neighbors. The wilderness is so vast here, there is so much to do, and relatively so few people are out enjoying all of it. So go ahead, escaping into the secluded wilderness here is as simple as stepping out your door.

The world comes out west expecting to see cowboys driving horses through the streets of downtown; pronghorn butting heads on windswept bluffs; clouds encircling the towering pinnacles of the Cloud Peak Wilderness; and endless expanses of wild, open country. These are some of the fibers that have been stitched together over time to create the patchwork quilt of Sheridan County’s identity, each part and parcel to the Wyoming experience.

welcome to bighorn mountain country. You can also experience a thriving outdoor events scene, featuring the likes of the Dead Swede 100 and the Bighorn Mountain Wild and Scenic Trail Run; some of the finest rock climbing in the American West; epic alpine lakes and hundreds of miles of water waiting to be paddled and fished; and so much more. Toss in a historic downtown district, with western allure, hospitality and good graces to spare; a vibrant art scene; bombastic craft culture; a robust festival and events calendar; and living history on every corner.

SHERIDANWYOMING.ORG

T H E T R AV E L S E R I E S / W YO M I N G Yellowstone National Park

GET OFF THE GRID. The Adventurous Route to the National Parks.

235 MILES TO YELLOWSTONE

Grand Teton National Park 183 MILES TO GRAND TETON

Jackson Hole

191

186 MILES TO SALT LAKE CITY, UT

Green River

WYOMING

Sweetwater County

Rock Springs

337 MILES TO DENVER, CO

191

SWEETWATER COUNTY

WELCOME TO WYOMING’S OASIS OF OUTDOOR RECREATION

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mong the rolling plains and rocky outcrops of Sweetwater County, Wyoming, you’ll find ancient petroglyphs, striking landscape views, and roaming wild horses—it’s a living oil painting of the authentic American west. And it’s much more than just a pretty thing to look at. Between Rock Springs and Green River, from Eden, to the Flaming Gorge, Sweetwater County is rich with outdoor recreation. Mountain bikers can rip miles of high desert trails; fly-fishermen can cast lines into

bountiful Rocky Mountain waters; and families can hike, camp, and unwind out in the wilderness. Explore the Flaming Gorge National Recreation area and reservoir, by boat, foot, or horse. Camp along the shores of the res and cook under the clearest, brightest stars you’ve ever seen. Or, inspire your inner-pioneer and venture out to Eden Valley—a place that’s every bit as beautiful as the name suggests. It’s easy to find your adventure inspiration in the wideopen spaces of Sweetwater County.

ALBANY COUNTY

ESCAPE THE CROWDS, FIND ADVENTURE, AND GET YOUR FIX OF WIDE-OPEN SPACES.

f you’re looking to step off the beaten path and escape into an unpeopled Western wilderness, Albany County, Wyoming, should be at the top of your list. Whatever your outdoor fixation— be it mountain biking, fly fishing, camping, horseback riding, hiking, boating, stand-up paddleboarding, you name it—you’ll find it in Albany County. With Medicine Bow National Forest at your doorstep, and scattered state parks and recreation areas to base out of, adventure here is always right around the corner.

Bike across some of the most scenic parts of the Laramie Plains. Cast lines into the Big Laramie River, Laramie Plains Lakes, or the Greenbelt. Rock climb among the Vedauwoo Rocks, or camp in sites ranging from the Snowy Mountains, to the banks of the Medicine Bow River. Opportunities for recreation abound, and the crowds that often flock to popular destinations like Yellowstone, have yet to descend on this part of Wyoming. Maintaining your social distance out here is no problem.

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CHEYENNE

THIS BIKING, HIKING, AND FISHING MECCA IS CLOSER THAN YOU MIGHT IMAGINE.

ith a history as rich as its landscape, it’s no wonder Cheyenne has been an epicenter of the American West since it was first staked in 1867. It’s the furthest northern anchor of the Front Range—only 90 miles from Denver, within easy reach of Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park, and just a day trip from Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Even South Dakota’s Mount Rushmore and the Black Hills are within striking range. It’s a wonder this place isn’t overrun year-round with crowds coming to recreate—but Cheyenne remains a hidden gem of the west. Venture up here, and you’ll find the open spaces are as vast as your will to explore. Surrounding the city proper you’ll find miles of snaking roads and single-track trails that give easy access for mountain bikers. There’s steep, rocky and technical downhill, and gentle rolling roads— something for every personality

and every skill level. No matter what trail you’re on, though, the scenery is picturesque, like something out of a Western novel. One of the most bountiful areas for recreation near Cheyenne is Curt Gowdy State Park. Just a 25-minute drive from town, this public recreation area spans 3,395 acres. Within it, visitors will find 159 state-maintained campsites; 32 miles of awesome mountain biking, hiking, and horseback trails; several bouldering areas; and one of the region’s largest archery ranges. There’s also Granite and Crystal Lake Reservoirs, connected by Middle Crow Creek, which offer tons of opportunities for boating, fishing, canoeing, stand-up paddleboarding, and kayaking. Of course, when you’ve had your fill of outdoor adventure, you’ll find a vibrant craft brewery, distillery, and restaurant scene back in town. Pop in and get a taste for the local flavors of Cheyenne, and explore everything the Magic City of the Plains has to offer.

We Will We Will Rock You! With 35 miles of IMBA-rated EPIC mountain biking trails, hiking, running, and rock climbing, Cheyenne’s adventure options will keep you busy for days. Pack the car, load up the bikes and come explore your back yard in Wyoming! Wind down and refuel in town at a restaurant, distillery or brewery. Plan your road trip today.

CHEYENNE.ORG / OUTDOORS

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Chasing Windmills B O U L D ER ’ S T ED T H AC K ER R EI N V EN T S H I M SEL F. by CAMERON M. BURNS

hen I first heard Ted Thacker’s music in the late 1980s, I thought it was shit. Ted’s band at that time, Baldo Rex, played a simplistic form of post punk that never grabbed me. Too plinky-plunky. Too bouncy. Too irreverent. I was serious about the music I listened to. Ted was having a laugh. Fast-forward 36 years, and I’m Ted’s biggest fan. He won me over completely with his first solo album—2017’s The (K)night of the Sorrowful Face. And as we all hunker down during the coronavirus pandemic, Thacker is finishing up his next solo effort, Judy. From the material I’ve heard so far, this album promises to be as good as his first. It’s been a long trajectory for the 53-year-old. Thacker grew up in Boulder and gained his first real success in the 1980s with an ever-evolving lineup of mostly Boulder-based musicians. A core group of them moved to Boston, coalesced around the name Baldo Rex, and returned to Colorado in 1991. They put out albums and attracted a wider following and played venues like Boulder’s Penny Lane (now Hi-Dive) and the Lion’s Lair in Denver. Their ethos followed the punk rock maxim of: “We’re all in this together, let’s help each other. And, while we’re at it, let’s really smash the place up!” By the early 2000s, Thacker was essentially out of the music business, and in over the ensuing years became a television videographer and sound operator for shows like The Deadliest Catch, Biggest Loser, and Trading Spaces. He started embracing life as a television production professional and, eventually, as a husband and father. Finally, he began experimenting again. He started pulling together words and melodies that are instantly hummable, instantly loveable because they are so catchy. The result in 2017 was The (K)night of the Sorrowful Face, named in honor of Don Quixote (and credited to The Red Tack, an anagram of Thacker’s name). “I was reading that book when I was making the album,” Thacker says. “And I thought, that’s me. All the stupid shit he does and stuff that he believes is real. I am so aimed at the wrong thing all the time.” THE RED TACK: THE RED TACK HIMSELF POSES ON HIS BOULDER HOME TURF. / PHOTO BY MOLLIE F. BURNS

hacker cites Joe Strummer, Elvis Costello, Prince, David Bowie, and Bob Dylan as inspirations, but he reserves his greatest praise for Sly Stone. “I have no country influence whatsoever,” Thacker says. That’s quite a statement if you’ve heard The (K)night of the Sorrowful Face. It sounds a bit like the best of the poppiest country music of the 1960s. In a contemporary way, Thacker explores isolation, depression, loss, and grief. And with Thacker, there’s always an edge. His voice is deeper, darker than pop country. He plops in shrill whistling, odd-sounding grunts, guitar feedback, dreamy organ, howls, shrill whistling on top of the other shrill whistling—you name it. It reminds me of Tom Waits’ Nighthawks at the Diner. Thacker plays every instrument on the album. One of the gems here is

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“Heartache.” According to Thacker, the idea came from a television producer while they werwe waiting in a van: “We were listening to a country song on the radio. And he said, ‘Hey, why don’t you write a song about a factory worker and instead of making shoes or something, he’s making heartache? I took that challenge and wrote the song in about 20 minutes. It’s such a great idea. It just wrote itself.” Then there’s “The Ballad of Slim Cessna.” Only a true Colorado musician or music lover could understand the importance of honoring the great man of the genre in such a beautiful way. There’s are also homages to Neil Young, Johnny Rotten, and others. His new album, Judy, is in the birthing stage, but it’s butting heads with the coronavirus pandemic. As usual, Thacker has pulled together a line-up of diverse

Colorado and elsewhere musicians. Drummers John Call, Dave Willey, Billy Pigati, and Jeffrey Mince (who tours with Nina Hagen) appear on the album. Alanis Morissette’s bass player Cedric Lemoyne sits in. Tom Hagerman and Shawn King from Devotchka also appear on the album, as does Boulder musician Grant Rieder. It’s going to be a feast for the ears. “It’s almost finished,” Thacker says. “We’ve been trying to record remotely, but it’s not working. Maybe when all this virus stuff is over, we’ll be able to connect. It’s just so hard trying to do this stuff that’s not face to face.” To hear The (K)night of the Sorrowful Face, go to bit.ly/3bzUIF2. To support the production of Judy, go to: bit.ly/2W6e5zc.

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H OW C A S T I N G , CO N SER VAT I O N , A N D E V EN C A N C ER C A N T E AC H US W H AT M AT T ER S . by KARA ARMANO

s a kid growing up in Wyoming I always woke up jazzed when it was my birthday. But on my 10th birthday, I was especially excited because I knew my dad had something special for me. He’d been teasing me, saying I was out of luck this year because my brother and sister had gotten everything. But I knew he was just pulling my leg. I ran downstairs to find the kitchen empty of people and presents. After hunting around, I found my mom, who kissed me. Maybe I just needed to wait it out a bit. I poured myself some cereal and pouted. Then my dad walked into the room. Nothing. Did he really forget? I waited patiently until my dad finally led me out to the yard. Then, there it was: a long, skinny box leaning against a bench, wrapped in brightly colored paper. I ripped it open to find my first fly rod and reel. I jumped up and down as my dad handed me my most cherished birthday present ever. I ran to an open spot in the yard and strung it up. My dad already had a piece of yarn ready to tie to the end of the tippet, and I started practicing my cast. After some instruction in the yard, I felt the line tighten and lay out when I cast, and I was consistently hitting the target I aimed for. Granted, it was only 20 feet away, but I was on my way to becoming a fly fisherman! After lots of practice tying knots, learning flies, and more casting, it was time for me to put my skills to use. Our annual family trip to Rock Creek came, and I could hardly wait to hit the water. At 10, I was too small for the waders on the market at the time, so wet wading in old sneakers was the best option. As soon as we pulled into our normal camping spot, I jumped out of the car and ran to the bank of the river. I knew the spots to fish because my dad had plopped me down in them to give it a try before I was official, so I hurriedly found a great spot and immediately

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got my fly stuck in a bush. This clearly wasn’t the open yard where I practiced, but I retrieved the fly, gave it a few more tries, and eventually had my first rainbow trout reeled in and flopping in my net. I unhooked it and let it swim off to my family’s cheers. That trip to Rock Creek solidified my love of fly fishing. I was finally old enough to fish with my dad and brother on their day-long excursions. I finally understood what they loved about it: the sights and sounds, the wildlife, and the pure joy of standing in a river waving what essentially amounted to a stick with a string and hook attached. Sure, there were many frustrating no-fish days, but I was becoming an angler.

Deep holes hid bull trout that would chase the cutthroat on our lines. Fireside stories every night made us laugh until tears filled our eyes.

ight years later, I bolted out of bed again. I had just graduated from high school and it was time for my graduation trip with my dad. We’d chosen to fish in the Bob Marshall Wilderness. In August, we headed to the South Fork of the Flathead River to cast for Westslope cutthroat trout. The trout were willing participants and being so far north in Montana, it stayed light until nearly 11 p.m. We fished hard every day until we collapsed into our cots. This trip told me that I was a bonafide angler, as we caught fish after fish while exploring the vast wilderness by rafting down the South Fork of the Flathead River. Deep holes hid bull trout that would chase the cutthroat on our lines. Fireside stories every night made us laugh until tears filled our eyes. Priorities shift when you get to college, and mine did at Gonzaga University. I didn’t fish much at first, but then I shattered my tibial plateau skiing, and there’s no better way to convalesce than by practicing your cast. During my months on crutches, I still couldn’t stand in a river, but I set up in a chair in front of my dorm and floated my line across the grass. Watching, my boyfriend caught on, too; he picked it up quickly and that summer took his fly rod anywhere

FISHING AND LIFE: THE AUTHOR RECEIVED THE NEWS THAT SHE HAD CANCER JUST AS SHE BEGAN TO VOLUNTEER FOR TROUT UNLIMITED. IN THE TIME SINCE, SHE HAS BECOME AN EVEN MORE VOCAL ADVOCATE FOR CLEAN WATER.

he could find water near his home in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Once I could walk again, I joined him there to fish the cold, clean waters in the Jemez Mountains. We were hooked, on each other and on the search for fish. We couldn’t get enough of fishing. I told him about my journey into the “Bob” and how amazing it was, so he applied for a guiding job there. When he got it, he started packing on the muscle to carry rafts down a thousand-foot slope, and then the raft frame, and then the cooler, and then the gear, and then sometimes the guests. This was his initiation into guiding. Once he passed, he qualified to pack guests into the wilderness, and he loved every minute of it. Meanwhile I spent my summers on Flathead Lake and in Missoula and found plenty of opportunities to fish. It was still a way for me to heal my knee and fill my soul, but now I couldn’t square the quality waters I fished with the destruction I knew extractive industry work, disease, and massive wildfires were having on rivers. Hoot owl restrictions and low water made fishing late in the summer in northwest Montana impossible. It was happening on other rivers, too—The Madison, The Big Horn and The Missouri—and as a conscientious angler, I wanted to identify and help alleviate the problems. Now married to my college sweetheart and living in the Roaring Fork Valley, I became an advocate for my local watershed by joining the board of the Roaring Fork Conservancy River Stewards, which engages and educates young professionals about the watershed and what was happening on our local rivers. I took to it seamlessly, bonding with the board, planning events, and teaching locals about the threats to our local waters. During that time, I also hosted multiple women’sonly fly fishing seminars, which proved popular. I felt that people wanting to learn about fly fishing should learn every aspect of it, from bug life to gear to casting to reading water eventually to catching and releasing fish. I spent a full day teaching my students these, plus some basic concepts of conservation, water quality, and how to take action on river protection. I feel we successfully turned women in the Roaring Fork Valley into anglers and conservationists.

PHOTO BY ANDREW MILLER

My Angling Life

FINDING PEACE: FLY FISHING HAS BEEN A PURSUIT THAT TIES THE AUTHOR TO THE PLACES SHE CALLS HOME.

Because of some of my advocacy work with both the Conservancy and Trout Unlimited, I was approached to help launch a sportswomen’s specific conservation group. Once we gathered 10 like-minded women from across the West, we officially launched Artemis, an initiative of the National Wildlife Federation, to give women a louder voice in conservation. We focused on issues facing all hunters and anglers such as access to public lands, threats to National Monuments, and threats to mule deer, cutthroat trout, and sage grouse. But we focused on teaching women how to advocate for protections in their own backyards. After 12 years in the Roaring Fork Valley, my husband and I sought out new fishing waters. So in the summer of 2017 we moved to a great spot on the La Plata River just outside of Durango, Colorado. I struggled to leave the incredible fishing opportunities and conservation work I’d done in the Roaring Fork Valley, but we were ready for a new adventure. Our new home brought us so much, from fishing steps off our porch in our new backyard to finding new blue lines on maps, which we traced and fished on foot and by mountain bikes. Better yet, I’d scored a job as southwest communications director with Trout Unlimited— my dream job. I was finally getting to combine my passion for advocacy in a meaningful way. Then heaven fell. After a day of volunteering with my local Trout Unlimited chapter, I got a call from my healthcare provider. What I feared most had come true; I was diagnosed with breast cancer. I was just getting the hang of the job, but my boss and colleagues were gracious in allowing me to continue working as my health allowed. The support I received from them was incredible, and the insurance was even better, but I knew what would get me through the pain to come the best would be fishing. After too many doctor appointments to count I was

getting treated with chemo first, then surgery, then targeted therapy treatments, then radiation, then, then then. But I always found time to fish in my backyard on the La Plata and around Durango. Time on the water took my mind off of what was happening. I was able to escape yet come back focused on healing and the impermanence of the situation. Sure, I was often off-balance. Sure, I had a hard time concentrating. And I got cold very easily while winter fishing. But every time I went, I felt rejuvenated.

ow that the weather is warming and snow is melting, I’m feeling more energized every day. I am eagerly looking forward to a summer filled with hiking and riding to chase beautiful fish. I’ll also concentrate on my job by telling better advocacy and

conservation stories. I’m still undergoing treatments for my cancer and have more to come, but I’ll make it. And just as important, finding the people and partners who help make Trout Unlimited the successful coldwater conservation organization that it is; by volunteering for my local TU chapter; by bringing other women into the sports I love through Artemis; and by teaching women and kids how to fly fish, I’ll pass along my legacy. I hope that one day another child will wake up jazzed to fly fish, and that the thrill of catch and release will make them want to protect their favorite places. It’s a good way to live. And take it from me: Time spent exploring the beautiful places trout live and working to protect them is reason enough to push through cancer and all that comes with it.

E N G I N E E R E D

PHOTO BY JOHON LE COQ

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Those are things lovers do. Love is always new. Love is the freshest thing. Which brings us to Pancho, the apple tree-pruning hero of this cloudgod dream. Lazy Pancho, so gentle and so kind, so in love with Gina, who was sweet to everyone, with the beauty of a happy mind. When Pancho first saw her brilliant smile, he thought he had gone blind. “Hello,” she said, and Pancho thought he had heard a song. Emil did, too, plunking a few keys on the piano in a brief reverie before he was distracted again by the contents of the mug in his other hand.

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Emil T H E M USI C O F T H E R A I N by PETER KRAY

must have drunk too much mezcal, or read too much of the magical realism of Gabriel García Márquez (as if there is such a thing), the night I dreamed of Emil, the bald, sun-beaten god who brought the rain. Emil lived in a cabin high in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains of New Mexico, overlooking an acequia community where the neighbors all get together to clear the ditches in the spring. This way, when the monsoon season comes, the water flows past all of their homes in equal measure to grow their crops and brew their coffee. Emil had an upright piano near

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the stove that he plunked as softly as a drizzle in the morning or rattled like a raging downpour, rumbling the keys with delight, on the nights when he got into the wine. He slept late the following morning, only stirring when the sun was too high for shadows. Then he grabbed his worn hat, his high boots, and threw over his shoulder the soft sack stuffed with clouds that he would spread across the horizon. Some days that sack was soaking wet, while other days it was as dry as cotton, depending on what weather he decided to bring. It had held every kind of cloud in its time, bulging with fat cumulonimbus, lenticular layers, cirrus rising as high and ethereal as a bouquet of lost balloons, and nimbostratus swooping low to hurl sheets of precipitation against the ground. Emil would work any time of day, languishing in slow, sleepy, window-

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streaked mornings, or roaring in the dark long after the sun went down. His favorite time was the afternoon. He liked the way the late light would darken across a reddening sky, turning the mountains purple, blue and orange. He was working less though, from day to day, until finally the sack of clouds sat empty in a pile in the middle of the room. The piano was un-played. And the front door was closed. Emil’s long arm filling mug after mug of wine was all that moved in the dark cabin. He told himself it was because he was old. He had seen enough of New Mexico, the rising streets of Santa Fe, the fast flow of the Pecos past piñon pine, and the spring surge of the mighty Rio Grande. He said there was nothing new to do, and nothing new to be seen. Which is true, of course, if that is how you want to view the world. Why would anyone want to see a flower, or steal a kiss, or hold a hand?

he spring had been a hot one. Unusually dry. As summer came, the people in the acequia community were starting to let a little worry into their minds. All across New Mexico, people were looking up at the sky as if they were looking for a sign. Then, in the Jemez Mountains to the west, a fire began to burn. As the ridgeline lit with flames, Gina would weave and sing, thinking of cold springwater sliding down her long spine. Pancho would work in the orchard, and in the afternoon try to nap in the first shade that came. They kept finding ways to bump into each other in town. One night, he walked her home. And again, there was that song. Emil made coffee. He played music through the night, then sat on the porch to stare at the fire across the valley all morning. The people noticed it, too, the increasing smoke, and the young couple now walking together all the time. After the first night they kissed, there was dew on the grass at dawn. When her family had him over for dinner, there was a brief rain. Gina’s parents worried Pancho was unambitious, but they liked how he made Gina smile. And how when they looked at each other, you could hear music spilling down the mountain. For a moment it almost stopped, though, this poem of love, with everything ready to go wrong. One night, Pancho said something stupid, and Gina said she could not forgive him. The whole town began to burrow under the increasing canopy of scorched air, wondering if it was their turn to burn. Everyone except Emil, who at lunch the next day had seen Pancho and Gina heading past the orchards to her uncle’s hunting cabin with a blanket, some bread, and a bottle of wine. Emil, who spent hours packing his bag, lifted off the mountain at last light, and opened the heavens over every metal roof in New Mexico for days with a symphony of rain. —Elevation Outdoors editor-at-large Peter Kray is the author of the God of Skiing. The book has been called “the greatest ski novel of all time.” Don’t believe the hype? Buy and read it here: amzn.to/2lmzpvn

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