Elevation Outdoors July-August 2015 by Summit Publishing

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CONTENTS

July-August 2015

‘TIS THE SEASON: THE HEAT OF SUMMER IS THE BEST TIME TO HIT THE ROAD AND WE HAVE CREATED FIVE ITINERARIES THAT SHOULD KEEP YOU BIKING, HIKING, PADDLING, CAMPING AND JUST PURE ENJOYING THE FREEDOM OF DRIVING WHEREVER YOU PLEASE. SEE PAGE 21.

DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

7 EDITOR’S LETTER

21 ELEVATION OUTDOORS' 2015 ROAD TRIP GUIDE

New national monuments and the future of landscape preservation.

8 QUICK HITS Colorado's least-crowded campgrounds, bolts in the wilderness, sour beers and more.

The summer lies heavy on the Front Range, so take off on one of these wild rides to Wyoming, Utah and southern Colorado. Plus, we give you two quick, long-weekend escapes.

27 THE CAMPER VAN TOUR 12 FLASHPOINT Nepal is still reeling from the earthquakes and Colorado climbers are finding ways to help.

Joe Risi set out in a 1988 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia headed for Taos. What could go wrong?

27 ADVENTURE COLLEGES 15 THE TRAIL How to stand atop Longs Peak.

Thirty-two colleges and universities battled for the title of Top Adventure School. And the winner is...

17 HOT SPOT Colorado's best beer towns.

19 STRAIGHT TALK Dean Potter, remembered.

45 HEAR THIS

41 GEAR IN FASHION Want to really test your gear? Get outside and play, as we say around here. By Adam Chase. Photography by Marie-Dominique Verdier. photo by GREG VON DOERSTEN

Beer (oh, and some music) take over Colorado's summer festival scene.

47 THE ROAD Every year the author and his wife set out on a big trip away from it all—but they never leave their home state. By Devon O'Neil.

19 ELWAYVILLE Breakdancing at mountain weddings.

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THE 30 SECOND TENTS With a reputation built on quality and reliability, Oztent has been the choice of adventures, helping create awesome experiences for over 20 years. Find out more about the range at: www.oztent.us.

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CONTRIBUTORS

LIGHTEN

UP ElevationOutdoors.com EDITORIAL

Klaus Fengler

ED ITOR -IN -CH IEF

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

doug@elevationoutdoors.com MANAGING EDITOR

CAMERON MARTINDELL

cameron@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR ED ITOR

CHRIS KASSAR

chris@elevationoutdoors.com C ON TRIBUTIN G ED ITORS

AARON BIBLE, ADAM CHASE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, SONYA LOONEY, JAYME MOYE, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN ED ITOR-AT-LARG E

PETER KRAY

CON TRIBUTIN G WRITERS

JEDD FERRIS, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, BRAD MILLER, DEVON O'NEIL, HEATHER RIDGE, JORDAN MARTINDELL JOSEPH RISI, AVERY STONICH, TYRA SUTAK

ACT TRAIL PRO SERIES

Perfect load transfer and superior breathability come together in the new ACT Trail Pro back system

IN TER N www.deuter.com

KELLY CASSIDY

ART + PRODUCTION MEGAN JORDAN

ART D IREC TOR

megan@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR D ESIG N ER

LAUREN WALKER

lauren@elevationoutdoors.com

ADVERTISING + BUSINESS BLAKE DEMASO

PRESID EN T

blake@elevationoutdoors.com ASSOC IATE PU B LISH ER

ELIZABETH O’CONNELL

elizabeth@elevationoutdoors.com SEN IOR AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE

MARTHA EVANS

martha@elevationoutdoors.com AC C OU N T EXECUTIVE

AVERY SHOOK

DIGITAL MEDIA CRAIG SNODGRASS

ON LIN E D IREC TOR

craig@elevationoutdoors.com D IG ITAL MA N AG ER

CAMERON MARTINDELL

cameron@elevationoutdoors.com

E L E VAT I O N OU T D O O R S M AG A Z I N E

3000 Pearl Street, Suite #202 Boulder, Colorado 80301 (303) 449-1560 PU B L I S H E D BY PUBLISHING

26.2 & 13.1 Trail Run Sunday, August 16th PRINTED ON RECYCLED NEWSPRINT WITH 100% POST-CONSUMER CONTENT

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ELIZABETH O'CONNELL A beautiful twoweek Wyoming-andMontana loop that included Yellowstone, Bozeman, Helena and Grand Teton—it was pure freedom.

CAMERON MARTINDELL Two trips with our little Rosie who was six and eight months old. City parks are our new best friend for long hauls. Thank you local taxpayers. We'll pay our taxes here for you to visit, too.

RANDY PROPSTER A stranger promised to take me to “a great breakfast spot” in Idaho. He gave me directions that led me to an empty field. Then—surprise!—he picked me up in a Cessna, dipped and dived through the Sawtooths, and landed us at Big Creek Lodge.

I spent fourteen days on the road in 1988, headed to Alaska in a 1967 International Harvester Scout that could not go above 55 mph. It was epic adventure on the Alaskan Highway.

avery@elevationoutdoors.com

When, in the midst of Texas heat after a jag in New Orleans, we realized that the two-quart, plastic container we were pouring into the radiator of the drive-away car was oil, not engine coolant.

MELISSA GESSLER

CIRC U LATION MA N AG ER

50 Mile MTB Race Saturday, August 15th

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

HUDSON LINDENBERGER

melissa@elevationoutdoors.com

SUMMIT

WHAT'S YOUR BEST STORY OF ROADTRIP PAIN AND/OR GLORY?

RANDY PROPSTER

randy@elevationoutdoors.com B U SIN ESS MAN AG ER

07.15

DEVON O'NEIL On a trip to Montana to ski with my brother, we hit a patch of ice and my truck rolled two-and-a-half times at 80 mph. It was totaled, but we were fine, miraculously.

PETER KRAY Winnemucca, Nevada in July. Nothing hotter. The long distance reward? Cooling off in the clear waters of Lake Tahoe.

EDITOR’S LETTER

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ENDURING VISION: TAKING IN THE RIO GRANDE DEL NORTE.

photo by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

CHECK OUT THE NEW

MONUMENTAL IDEA When some folks with dollar signs in their eyes wanted to profit off the Grand Canyon, to develop it, change it, Teddy Roosevelt would not stand for it. “I want to ask you to keep this great wonder of nature as it now is,” he said. “I hope you will not have a building of any kind, not a summer cottage, a hotel or anything else, to mar the wonderful grandeur, the sublimity, the great loneliness and beauty of the canyon. Leave it as it is. You cannot improve on it. The ages have been at work on it, and man can only mar it.” It took more than rousing quotes to save the canyon, however. The Republican president needed to revert to his famed big stick and find a law that would ensure no one would mar this place. The law turned out to be the Antiquities Act of 1906, a bill that, on the surface, was passed to give Congress and the President the power to preserve ruins and other archaeological wonders—but the cultural, historical and scientific sites that could be protected as monuments were not limited to ruins. At least that was how T.R. saw it when he declared 800,000 acres of the Grand Canyon a national monument in 1908, claiming the whole damn thing was an object of scientific, historical and cultural importance. History would prove him right and the canyon would eventually be further protected as a national park in 1919 by Democrat Woodrow Wilson. In the century since, Republican and Democrat Presidents have declared 142 national monuments and enlarged many existing ones to better preserve their wonders. Like the Grand Canyon, many of those such as Great Sand Dunes National Monument, created by Herbert Hoover, have also been turned into national parks. But many others, such as New Mexico's Bandelier, created by Dwight D. Eisenhower, and the Grand Staircase-Escalante, created by Bill Clinton, have endured just fine as monuments. While national forests Bureau of Land Management (BLM) lands are managed for their resources and national parks require very stringent guidelines, monuments exist somewhere in between, and they can be found on both national forests and BLM lands. Protecting the “objects if interest” within them is paramount, but they are more open to visitation, to free wandering, to persevering as part of the landscape that is so quickly disappearing in once wild places that industry and developers now want to own. Currently, the Obama Administration is busy wielding its own big stick and creating new national monuments across the country. With our political system deadlocked and powerful lobby interests in Congress looking to sell off public land and cripple conservation laws, preserving as much land as possible is the only defense. Here in Colorado, Browns Canyon National Monument became a reality this year thanks to strong support from Salida locals. Last month, I had the chance to visit New Mexico's new Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, created in 2013. And gazing out across the deep gorges with my family, taking in the silence and the sunset, I was glad for our rarely heralded national monuments and for Teddy Roosevelt. Without his vision, we might not have these views.

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QUICK HITS

TECHNOLOGY VIEWRANGER 6 APP

ViewRanger will be your best navigation friend on your phone, tablet, laptop or Apple Watch. Set up routes and waypoints and use the Buddy Beacon feature to find friends. A whole host of maps come free with the app while USGS and other international topo maps are available for purchase in the app. And you can download a growing library of 39 customized Elevation Outdoors routes (see page 15). Free iOS/Android/Symbian/ Kindle; viewranger.com

GEAR WE LOVE UCO STAKE LIGHTS

Don't overlook the tent-stake light. Safety might be their best use, but they also help you find your tent in the dark after stumbling back from… well, whatever. At a festival they help, you spot your tent so you don’t crawl in with someone else. Each light can be turned to blue, green or red and will run for about 12 hours. $20 (four pack); ucogear.com

BOOKS BUSHCRAFT 101

Former Boy Scouts will be familiar with the tricks in this book, though the art of bushcraft goes far deeper: this book can teach you true wilderness survival. From axe skills to gathering food, this tome can help you put together the perfect kit to be prepared for your next adventure. Sound familiar, scouts? $13; adamsmedia.com

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07.15

ALL TO YOURSELF WELCOME TO COLORADO’S LEAST CROWDED CAMPGROUNDS. (DON’T WORRY WE PROMISE WE ARE NOT RUINING THEM BY PRINTING THIS.) Living in the Front Range has its advantages. Within an hour’s drive, Rocky Mountain National Park, James Peak and the Indian Peaks Wilderness all provide an almost endless list of hiking, biking and camping opportunities. But with millions of visitors swarming these popular spots each year, it’s sometimes hard to bliss out in solitude on a summer weekend. The quest for that super-secret campsite becomes the stuff of legend. Roughly sketched maps passed down from Coloradoan to Coloradoan come with vague directives like “turn left past the old, abandoned mine.” Revealing those secret locations to the masses can garner a price on your head, but there are quite a few, lesser-known developed campsites that we can tell you about without risking a fatwa. For a quick escape from the city, cruise to the Deer Creek Campground about 10 miles northwest of Bailey. Located in Pikes National Forest less than an hour’s drive from Denver, it's full of tall trees and running creeks surrounding sites that rarely full. Hikers have easy access from here to the Mount Evans Wilderness area. Take County Road 43 north for 8 miles off of US Highway 285. Call 303-2755610 for info. Just past Kenosha Pass, Lodgepole Pine Campground is part of the Jefferson Lake Recreation Area. Tucked into tall stands of pines, this campsite is rarely full in the summer and offers access to spectacular nearby mountain biking and hiking options, including a stretch of the Colorado photo by BEN RIDGE

Trail running right through the campground. Nearby Jefferson Lake is lovely and open to anglers and boaters. Turn off US highway 285 at Country Road 35. 719-836-2031 About 20 miles northwest of Pagosa Springs is Bridge Campground. Serving up exactly what you hope for in a Colorado campsite, these spots are spaced right along a river with views of meadows that fill with wildflowers in the summer. Rarely full and riddled with biking and hiking trails, this is a great spot for checking out the area. From Pagosa Springs, head west on Highway 160 and then north 19 miles on County Road 600 until it turns into a gravel forest road. 970-264-2268 The aptly named Belle of Colorado Campground sits beside Turquoise Lake just outside Leadville. As a walk-in, tent-only campsite, this area receives a lot less traffic than the stunning lake views and sandy shores warrant. Trails loop the lake and nearby Mount Elbert is a great day hike. Elevation is almost 10,000 feet, which means you’ll need warm clothes all summer long, but if you’re willing to go in June or September, you’ll have the place practically to yourself. 719-486-0749 The Echo Park Campground is an idyllic, isolated spot, which is truly surprising considering the volume of summer visitors the nearby Dinosaur National Monument attracts. Set at the confluence of the Yampa and Green Rivers, the shade of surrounding trees provides privacy here but there are also unobstructed views of the cliffs and canyons which glow red at sunset and inspire a barbaric yawp. Mountain biking and hiking options abound after a day visiting the jurassic bone pits. Sites are primitive, so bring your own water and toilet paper. Access the site by heading north about 30 miles from the Dinosaur National Monument Headquarters on Echo Park Road. 435-781-7700 —Heather Ridge LONELY AT THE TOP: ENJOY THE VIEW OF THE CONFLUENCE OF THE YAMPA AND GREEN RIVERS FROM A SITE AT THE RARELY CROWDED ECHO PARK CAMPGROUND.

QUICK HITS

07.15

has a wilderness management plan that allows fixed hardware, with no immediate plans to update it. Colorado National Monument lacks a plan, so it has banned new fixed anchors but allows replacement. Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is restrictive about hardware and is currently in the process of updating its wilderness stewardship plan. But if climbers' voices are not in the mix, their concerns could be left out of future plans. “This issue affects some of the highest profile climbing areas in the country,” says Erik Murdock, policy advisor for the Access Fund. “It’s important for us to engage in the planning.” Get involved at accessfund.org. —Avery Stonich

SOUR SUMMER NO NEED TO PUCKER UP HERE, THESE TART BEERS GO DOWN SMOOTH. Summer is on, and with the arrival of warmer temperatures, you’ll be searching for the perfect beer to enjoy after a big day outdoors. Forget the IPAs and Saisons your friends stock in their coolers. Try something different, something off the beaten path. Try a sour beer. It might sound counterintuitive that a beer should be sour, but have an open mind. Until the eighteenth century, most beers had a mild sourness to them. Fast forward to several years ago and craft brewers started to barrel-age their beers to push the boundaries of the craft, creating outlandish stouts, porters, IPA’s and, yes, even sour beers. Sours are as wild and weird as you could imagine. Here are three Colorado sours that are perfect introductions to this new trend. New Belgium helped pioneer the sour beer market in the United States with its La Folie line in 1999. The name makes sense, since the style originated in Belgium centuries ago when wild uncultivated yeasts entered beers through the barrels and created something special. This year’s version is inspired by the Flanders region of northern Belgium. It's a brown ale that was aged one-to-three years in French oak barrels. The fruit-forward flavors are balanced nicely with a medium tartness. When Adam Avery moved into his new brewery in Gunbarrel, just east of Boulder, earlier this year, one of his big commitments was to a healthy expansion of his barrel-aging program. That's good news for discerning drinkers across the state because the brewers at Avery Brewing are turning out some of the most interesting sours on the market. As one of three beers offered in the newest 22-ounce bomber line “Botanicals & Barrels,” Avery's Raspberry Sour is highly approachable and loaded with fruit flavor with a mild souring. On those hot summer days when the thermometer is edging closer and closer to triple-digits, the last

PIQUANT PLEASURES: MEET OUR TOP STEAMY-SEASON PICKS FROM NEW BELGIUM, AVERY AND GRIST. photo by HUDSON LINDENBERGER

thing you want is a heavy beer. Light, approachable and still flavorful is the thing to shake the sweat from your eyes. Grist Brewing Company in Highlands Ranch can cover those refreshment needs with its Berliner Weisse. This take on a classic German summer beer serves up a strong citrus backbone with just the right about of tartness to leave your taste buds begging for more. Though not barrel-aged it is a perfect example of how far sours have come. Got it? Good. Now just remember to pucker up and toss a couple of sour beers into your cooler before you head out on your next outdoor adventure. You'll be a trendsetter. —Hudson Lindenberger

BOLTS OUT OF THE BLUE? HOW WILL NEW PARK SERVICE REGULATIONS AFFECT CLIMBING? For years, the wilderness climbing regulations in national parks were vague when it came to bolted routes—but the possibility that bolts could be banned was always very real. Now the wheels are in motion to clarify exaclty what’s allowed in areas managed by the National Park Service (NPS). In 2013, the NPS issued Director’s Order #41, recognizing climbing as an acceptable use of wilderness and that fixed anchors don’t violate the Wilderness Act, but they should be used sparingly. It recommends controlling and possibly reducing fixed anchors, but left it up to each park to set its own rules. In March, two parks—Sequoia and Kings Canyon—and Lake Mead National Recreation Area issued new wilderness management plans, tightening regulations on fixed hardware. What does that mean for Colorado? Not much— for now. Rocky Mountain National Park already

SAFE ZONE: DON'T WORRY. BOLTED CLIMBS IN ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK ARE NOT GOING AWAY SOON. photo by COLORADO MOUNTAIN SCHOOL GUIDE IAN FOWLER

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QUICK HITS

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GOLDEN, COLORADO WHY GO FAR? THE GATEWAY TO THE ROCKIES IS A DESTINATION ITSELF. Golden is so much more than the Coor’s factory tour (although that's still impressive, no matter what you thnk of the beer!). With a historical nod around every corner and the entire city centered around the creek, Golden provides a laid back, genuine playground that doesn't require I-70 traffic jams for you to get there.

EAT

The Sherpa House and Cultural Center (ussherpahouse.com) is more than a place to fuel up after adventure. The restaurant is a place where you can eat traditional Nepalese cuisine and brush up on the region's history. I highly recommend the Sherpa House Sampler—perfect for those who are afraid of commitment or just want some variety. Beer lovers will also be happy to know that recently, Sherpa House partnered with Golden City Brewery to start the first craft brewery in Nepal (which was thankfully unharmed in the earthquakes). Looking for a quick bite? The locals’ pick for the best sandwich in town is D’Deli (ddeligoldencom). This tiny shop serves up some of the best subs on the front range. Don’t forget to ask for some giardiniera (hot pickled veggies) on your sandwich for an extra kick! CRACKING UP: EO CONTRIBUTING EDITOR CHRIS VAN LEUVEN GETS HIS FINGERS IN FRANK’S WILD YEARS (5.11) AT GOLDEN’S QUARRY WALL.

SLEEP

You simply can’t beat the location of The Golden Hotel. Located on the corner of Washington and photo by JOHN LLOYD

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11th, this creek-side hotel is in the center of town making everything within walking distance. The rooms are spacious and clean and the staff is friendly and attentive. With a fresh new menu the hotel’s Bridgewater Grill offers up a tasty twist on traditional food, i.e. their meaty buffalo hot wings are a perfect balance of sweet, spicy and smoky. The restaurant’s lovely patio overlooks the creek making it a perfect pit stop on a stroll or bike ride along the Clearwater Creek Trail, even if you’re not staying at the hotel. Of course, Golden's close enough that you can sleep at home, too.

PLAY

While there are a plethora of popular hikes just outside of Golden, you can also make the 40 minute drive to Golden Gate Canyon State Park (cpw. state.co.us/placestogo/parks/GoldenGateCanyon). The park is a great size for newbies wanting to explore camping close to home or for veterans who want easy access to backcountry sites. The park boasts a variety of facilities—car camping sites, yurts, cabins, shelters and backcountry camps—all situated within 12,000 acres of forests, rocky vistas and lush meadows. For mountain bikers, there are a ton of trails that can be conquered in one aggressive day, or spread out over a weekend-long trip. The park designates “multiple use” trails as well as “hikers only” trails and the map is coded, making it easy to keep you on track. If you are looking to get veritcal, the 13 separate rock climbing crags just on the north edge of town at North Table Mesa will delight all levels. We suggest you focus on the outsitanding crack climbing at the Quarry Wall. —Jordan Martindell

GET ON YOUR BIKES AND RIDE!

QUICK HITS

07.15

The non-profit cycling advocate organization PeopleForBikes knew lots of Americans ride their bikes. But they wanted more details to be able to support those riders. To that end the organization contracted Breakaway Research Group to dig in. The results may surprise you: • Thirty-four percent of Americans ages three and older rode a bicycle at least one day in the past year. • Of those who rode a bicycle, 30 percent rode five days or fewer. • Those who rode for transportation are much more likely to have done so to get to and from social, recreation, or leisure activities (70 percent) than to have commuted to and from work or school (46 percent). • Forty-eight percent of adults in the U.S. don’t have access to an operational bicycle at home. • Fifty-four percent of adults in the U.S. perceive bicycling as a convenient way to get from one place to another and 53 percent would like to ride more often. However, 52 percent worry about being hit by a car and 46 percent say they would be more likely to ride a bicycle if motor vehicles and bicycles were physically separated. Check out the full report at peopleforbikes.org. —Cameron Martindell

GRAPE ESCAPE: PALISADE IS AFFECTIONATELY DUBBED “THE WINE CAPITAL OF COLORADO” THANKS TO ACRES AND ACRES OF VINEYARDS AND AN ABUNDACNE OF SURPRISINGLY GOOD WINERIES. VISIT SEPTEMBER 17-20 FOR THE COLORADO MOUNTAIN WINEFEST, WHICH FEATURES TASTINGS, GRAPE STOMPS, LIVE MUSIC AND A 25-MILE BIKE RIDE. —TYRA SUTAK photo by PALISADE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE & JIM COX JC/PHOTOGRAPHY

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FLASHPOINT

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THE AFTERMATH THE FIRST IMAGES WERE OF COLORADO CLIMBERS WHO SURVIVED THE QUAKE AND DISASTER AT EVEREST BASE CAMP. BUT THE ONGOING STORY—THE ONE THAT REALLY MATTERS—IS HOW THOSE CLIMBERS HAVE RALLIED TO REBUILD ALONGSIDE THE PEOPLE OF NEPAL WHOSE LIVES CAME CRASHING DOWN IN THE DISASTER. by HUDSON LINDENBERGER When the ground first began to shake on Saturday April 28, in the Gorkha district, most of the people of Nepal did not think much of it. Due to the country's location near the collision point for the Indian and Eurasian tectonic plates, there are plenty of tremors here—think about the attitude of Americans who live on the San Andreas Fault. But when approximately twenty-seconds into this quake, the intensity ramped up radically, and buildings began to tumble like half-stacked Jenga play pieces, everyone knew that this one was different. Matt Moniz and over a dozen other Rocky Mountain residents who were in or around Mount Everest Base Camp sure felt it. The American climbers suddenly found themselves in the midst of tragedy that soon would be on the front page of newspapers across the world—and their dedication to what came next would go far beyond climbing. No one will stand on top of Everest for the first time in 41 years, but the climbing community's connection to the country of Nepal has never been stronger. THE CALL

“I was awakened by my phone ringing, and when I looked at the caller ID I saw it was a Nepal number,” says Karma Sherpa, Louisville resident, and owner of Sherpa Mountain Adventures. “It was from one of my employees in Kathmandu recounting the

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immense damage. That was the beginning of an incredibly long stretch of 18-hour days.” Karma was just one of the approximately 3,000 Nepalese immigrants that make Colorado home who received similar calls that day. As they worried about their families and friends, there was one burning question at the forefront of everyone’s mind. What could they do to help? It's easy to see why so many Nepalese relocate to Colorado. Both places root themselves in the mountains—they attract climbers, trekkers, and holiday visitors from across the globe annually to explore hidden valleys, climb epic peaks, and bask in the alpine beauty. Tourism is a strong economic engine to both: In Nepal, it brings in approximately $429 million in revenue annually (4 percent of the GDP); while in Colorado it brought in $17.3 billion in 2013 (over 5 percent of GDP). But that is where the similarities end. With only 56,136 square miles of landlocked earth—roughly the size of Tennessee—Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world. Only half of the almost 31 million residents are literate, and many are spread out across some of the most remote mountainous regions on the planet. The government is notoriously corrupt, and slow to react to emergencies. So when the buildings started to topple, first on April 28th and then again on May 12th, those Coloradans with firsthand knowledge of the country knew just how tough the task facing these resilient people over the coming months, and years, was going to be. They sprang into action. THE DAMAGE

“We work in the Gorkha district which was very close to the epicenter of the first quake, so we were able to assist immediately,” says Josh Duncan, Parker resident, and U.S.A National Director for Mountain Child, a non profit dedicated to helping children in some of the poorest and most distant sections of Nepal. “Due to the massive damage we saw where village after village had lost 90 to 100 percent of their homes, we immediately started working to help provide shelter. With the upcoming monsoon season

HIGHER PURPOSE: MATT MONIZ, WILLIE BENEGAS AND PASANG LHAMU SHERPA JOIN THE EFFORT IN LAPRAK.

it was crucial to get roofs over their heads.” Part of the problem is that so many buildings— homes, schools, and monasteries—are not built to earthquake-proof standards. A farmer living at 16,000 feet needs to get a shelter over his family's head. Four walls and a roof will do.

“I decided that I could do something significant to help these people I love so much.” — Colorado climber Matt Moniz “I grew up in the village of Khumjung and was lucky enough attend the Hillary school which allowed me to make my way to Cambridge and the University of Pennsylvania. But I am still in constant contact with my family back home,” says Karsang Sherpa, Vice President at Tralee Capital Partners in Denver. “Over 95 percent of the homes in my village are damaged and over 80 percent of the homes in the Everest region need work. I have sent thousands of dollars of my own money to family to survive. Everyone I know has been impacted, I lost an uncle and a cousin. The people of Nepal need help.” But not all is lost. While the damage from both quakes and subsequent aftershocks is substantial, it certainly is not insurmountable. “The Nepalese people are some of the most resilient I have ever seen. They were rebuilding homes and tea houses as we were hiking out from Everest Base Camp,” says Fort Collins-based mountaineer and Alzheimer’s advocate Alan Arnette. “They don’t sit back and wait for help, but instead put a smile on their faces and get to work. Over the last century they have had six quakes over magnitude seven. This is nothing new to them.”

THE RESPONSE

Colorado, with it’s 53 peaks over 14,000 feet and untold other crags, attracts alpinists the way the Florida Keys attracts fishermen—they come for the fun and find they never want to leave. As a result, Colorado is home to the Access Fund, the American Alpine Club and the Colorado Mountain Club. Every year the Centennial State sends a healthy contingent of climbers to the Himalayas to attempt to summit its famous peaks. At 17 years old, Boulder climber Matt Moniz was one of the youngest mountaineers in base camp when the avalanche hit and he spent the next few days assisting in rescue efforts, But instead of coming home after the slide, he did something out of the ordinary—he stayed.

“Little did we know that we had been spending the last 17 years prepping for this calamity, we have the team in place to make immediate impacts.” — Jim Nowak, The dZI Foundation “I decided that I could do something significant to help these people I love so much. So I talked with my guides, the Benegas brothers [Damian and Willie], and my father [Mike] back home, and we arranged a fundraiser in Zurich,” says Moniz. “We were able to raise close to $100,000 that we then took back to Nepal. Instead of putting the money into a few hands to disperse, we hired hundreds of porters to ferry supplies into remote villages. They rebuilt trails and helped the local teahouses by spending much needed cash there. It felt great to help. I may not have summited Everest, but I think this experience will always mean more to me.” So as Nepal digs out and rebuilds, what are the next steps, and why should relief efforts so far from home top the minds of Coloradans? The connection between the two places has made many Nepalese more than just transplants here. The communities are linked. “I, like most of my people, dreamed of living in Colorado. The mountains and people remind me so much of my homeland,” said Karsang Sherpa. “We share a lot of the same priorities—love of open spaces, getting out into the beauty of the wilderness, and a sense of adventure.” That connection goes both ways. The dZi Foundation, headquartered in Ridgway, has been on the ground helping the Nepalese people since 1998. Founded by mountaineers Jim Nowak, and Kim Reynolds, it serves over 30,000 people by helping build, and repair basic infrastructure in remote villages—the places and people that need the most help right now. “Little did we know that we had been spending the last 17 years prepping for this calamity, we have the team in place to make immediate impacts,” said Nowak. “Right now we are focused on rebuilding over thirty-one remote schools.” One of the best ways to help is by planning a trip to Nepal. The Nepalese don’t want visitors to avoid the area due to the earthquake and more importantly they need the tourist dollars to keep flowing in—it is crucial to their survival. Nepal is quite possibly one of the most beautiful places in the planet, and deserves a spot on most Coloradans’ bucket lists. By simply visiting the country, tourists can help with the recovery. A bit of good news on that front is that most of the major trekking loops, including Everest, Annapurna and Manaslu, are in decent shape, and they should be ready for the fall season once the monsoons have receded. Most major tour operations are offering discounted trips for this fall and next spring. “The most important thing anyone can do is head over for a trek or visit," said Karma Sherpa. "The money they spend could mean the difference between a comfortable winter, or one spent struggling to survive for my countrymen.” —Hudson Lindenberger is the author of the Elevation Outdoors.com Liquid Gear column and a frequent contributor to Men's Journal.

WANT TO HELP? Donate to these organizations with local ties and you can feel better knowing that your contributions are going directly to relief efforts on the ground: The dZi Foundation (dzi.org), Mountain Child (mountianchild. org), Sherpa Mountain Adventures (sherpamountainadventures.com), Sherpa Adventure Gear (sherpaadventuregear.com or crowdrise.com/ helpsherpashelpnepal), Embolden Alliances (emboldenalliances.org), The Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation (alexlowe.org/p/earthquake-relief),Pemba Sherpa’s You Caring Page (bit.ly/1GnjP64).

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Eliot Rosenberg gets his share of cool mountain air and an epic run down the Crusader trail. Photo: Trent Bona

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / J U LY- A U G U S T 2 01 5

THE TRAIL

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DOWNLOAD APP viewranger.com/gpsadventure

ROUTE CODE: ELEV0038 Scan for this route’s GPS Hike!

LOCK IT UP: MAKE IT TO THE KEYHOLE BY SUNRISE FOR SUBLIME VIEWS AND TO AVOID AFTERNOON THUNDERSTORMS.

LONGS PEAK KEYHOLE ROUTE HIKE AND SCRAMBLE TO THE TOP OF THIS ICONIC FOURTEENER WITH HELP FROM A FREE VIEWRANGER GPS DOWNLOAD AND OUR MAP. by CHRIS KASSAR Rising 14,259 feet above sea level on the horizon of the Front Range, Longs Peak beckons climbers and hikers of all stripes. You won’t have the standard Keyhole Route all to yourself, but this 10- to 15-hour adventure is worth the effort. To reach the summit, you’ll travel 15 miles round-trip, gain about 5,000 vertical feet and climb over rugged trailless terrain with puckering exposure. Sudden storms can make it even more harrowing, so start extremely early (think 1:00 a.m.) and by the light of your headlamp. GET GOING

Start at the Longs Peak Trailhead and often packed parking lot. From here at 9,400 feet, begin the steep and winding climb through thick pine, spruce and fir. STAY LEFT

After about .5 miles, you’ll reach the Eugenia Mine Junction. Head left. JIM’S GROVE

After just two miles, you break free from the forest into a subalpine wonderland with crazy pines twisted into Dr. Seuss-like shapes, and your first glimpse of Longs Peak. Head left at the junction with Jim’s Grove Trail. CHASM LAKE

Approximately 3.5 miles from the trailhead at 11,450 feet, the trail forks. The left branches off to Chasm Lake, a stunning blue-green tarn which rests in a glacier-scoured basin. Take in the breathtaking views of the Roaring Fork drainage with Long’s famed Diamond face soaring above. Head right, away from the lake. photo by CHRIS KASSAR

GRANITE PASS

Climb another mile to reach Granite Pass (12,080 feet), the saddle between Mt. Lady Washington and Battle Mountain. Stay left at the junction with the N. Longs Peak Trail and continue southwest toward the Boulder Field, where the maintained trail ends, and you begin a fun section of rock hopping. At 5.9 miles, you’ll reach the Boulder Field Backcountry Campground which has nine sites and an outhouse. If you’ve planned to make this an overnight excursion, camp here. Otherwise, continue southwest as you scramble, and bound over a rugged, steep section that gains about 500 feet in .75 miles and requires route finding. THE KEYHOLE

You’ve reached the famous notch at about 13,150 feet where the class 3 mountaineering route begins. Take note of the weather and turn around if clouds are rolling in. The next 1.5 miles are the last place you want to be in a thunderstorm. If blue skies prevail, go through the Keyhole and traverse a series of narrow ledges across a cliff. Red and yellow painted bulls-eyes guide you through. 7.

SALOMON X-ALP PRO GTX

This lightweight mountaineering boot (23 ounces) can handle narrow ledges, slick rock faces and snow-filled couloirs, but still feels comfy. Credit that performance to a super grippy sole, an integrated gaiter, and a waterproof/breathable Gore-Tex Performance Comfort membrane. $280;

THE TROUGH BLACK DIAMOND ALPINE START HOODY

THE HOMESTRETCH

Use your hands and feet to scramble up this last 250-yard smooth slab of granite just below the summit. Though you can taste the summit, keep your wits about you here and go slowly as a slip could have severe consequences. 9.

TRAIL GEAR

salomon.com

The route descends to the base of the Trough, a long, steep and aptly-named couloir. Climb this broad gulley from 13,300 to 13,850 feet and be aware of climbers above you who often kick down loose rock. Near the top of the Trough, a short steep section which brings you to the Narrows, a constricted ledge across a sheer vertical face. You’ll need to use some hand holds and careful foot placement to get through this section safely. 8.

Scan for all of Elevation Outdoors’ published routes!

YOU’VE MADE IT

Catch your breath and enjoy the stunning 360-degree views from the surprisingly large summit. Return the way you came: Be careful and stick to the route.

Made of silky fabric that stretches with your every move, this ultralight hooded softshell provides an emergency layer for protection from nasty wind and light, intermittent precipitation. It packs down tiny and it weighs in under 9 ounces. Toss it in your pack or just clip it to your harness. $149; blackdiamondequipment.com

—C.K.

J U LY- A U G U S T 2 01 5 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

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HOT SPOT

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BEER TOWNS EARN IT AND IMBIBE. THAT’S OUR MOTTO WHEN IT COMES TO VISITING THE BEST BEER-SLASH-ADVENTURE TOWNS IN SOUTHERN COLORADO. By CHRIS KASSAR

continually demonstrate their generosity, social responsibility and dedication by giving back to the Springs in too many ways to mention, make this far more than a brewery. But if you are here to try the wares, be sure to try the best-seller, a malty Scottish Ale called Laughing Lab and grab at least one item from the menu of delicious and largely, locally sourced pub grub. bristolbrewing.com

PONCHA SPRINGS/SALIDA The laid-back, play-hard towns of southern Colorado offer up some of the best craft brew in a state that leads the nation in beer savvy-ness with over 200 breweries and growing. What better way to cap off a big day outdoors than with a cold one? None, we say, but it’s hard to pick the best breweries in a state so awash in sudsy riches. So here’s a quick guide to our favorite, lesser known watering holes in southern Colorado. So start planning that SoCo road trip (see page 21) and be sure to drink responsibly.

COLORADO SPRINGS EARN IT: ROCK CLIMB IN GARDEN OF THE GODS

There are tons of route options at this playground, but our faves include the two-pitch, 5.7 North Ridge up the iconic Montezuma’s Tower, an intimidating fin of rock with a healthy dose of exposure and the two-pitch, 5.7 New Era route up the east face of Kindergarten Rock. IMBIBE: BRISTOL BREWING COMPANY

Locals flock to this brewery for its award-winning, locally-made draughts and the fun, open atmosphere. Differentiated by the fact it’s located in Ivywild, a historic elementary school that also houses a bakery, coffee shop and restaurants, Bristol is much more than a bar; it’s a gathering place with a true and devoted community. Tons of space, a killer outdoor patio complete with games and owners who photo by CHRIS KASSAR

EARN IT: ROAD RIDE PONCHA PASS

Park at Elevation Beer Company, ride to Hwy 285, head south and huff and puff until you reach the top of the pass at 9,010 feet (seven miles from Poncha Springs). Head back or cruise all the way to Villa Grove, grab supplies at the store and climb back over the pass to Salida (about 54 miles roundtrip). IMBIBE: ELEVATION BEER COMPANY

This cozy, casual, relaxed tap room with views of the mountains and friendly service, cranks out some of the best beer in the state. Don’t miss the crisp and very drinkable 8-Second Kolsch, the delicious and robust Little Mo’ Porter or the Apis IV, a cool and tasty Quadrupel. And, be sure to grab whatever unique, well-balanced, limited, barrelaged releases that are on tap in the Double Black Diamond Series. Every beer here is outstanding so it’s understandable if you can’t choose just one (this is the purpose of the sampler platter). Get an inside look with a brewery tour (by appointment or Sat 3 p.m. and 5 p.m.), grab a bite from the food truck often parked outside or relax on the huge outdoor patio and soak in the sun. elevationbeerco.com

RIDGWAY EARN IT: SCALE MT. SNEFFELS

This imposing 14,150-foot peak dominates the skyline from many spots near Ridgway and Ouray. Starting at 10,700 feet in the stunning Yankee Boy Basin, follow the direct, Class II+, 7-mile roundtrip route up Sneffels' south slopes to reach its pinnacle.

HOPPY HIGH: THE OUTDOOR PATIO AT ELEVATION BEER COMPANY IS THE IDEAL PLACE TO SIP ON SUDS WHILE PLOTTING A BIG ADVENTURE IN THE SURROUNDING PEAKS.

IMBIBE: COLORADO BOY PUB & BREWERY

This small, cozy, hip pub housed in a historic brick building is the ideal spot to sip a delicious pint, savor a slice of artisan pizza and watch beer brew before your eyes. You can feel good about doing it, too, since these folks are dedicated to making their operation minimum impact: Wind creates 100 percent of the electricity, solar collectors on the roof provide hot water for brewing and all used yeast and grain feed local cattle. Because the emphasis is on local, small batch brews, you’ll only have 5 or 6 taps to choose from, but they’re all outstanding and quite varied, including blondes, pales, IPAs, stouts and, of course, special releases depending on the season. Also, visit Colorado Boy Pizzeria on Main Street in Montrose. coloradoboy.com

TELLURIDE EARN IT: BIKE THE SKI RESORT

Once the snow melts, spend the day bombing down steep, techy trails in the Mountain Village Bike Park, the only free (!) lift-serviced downhill bike park in the world. townofmountainvillage.com IMBIBE: TELLURIDE BREWING COMPANY

This no-frills microbrewery located just outside of town rocks. Enjoy a craft specialty here and you’ll agree that what TBC lacks in space, it makes up for in taste. The brewers seem to love creating bold IPAs, so give the Tempter, the Freaky Fish Belgian (8.5 percent) and the whiskey-barrel-aged Fishwater Project (11 percent!) a whirl. We also love the Wet Hopped American Pale Ale, an exceptional summer seasonal. Take home your favorite in a Crowler—a 32 oz aluminum can (no glass!) which is sealed so it stays fresh for weeks—though we doubt it will last that long. telluridebrewingco.com

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STRAIGHT TALK

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DEAN POTTER FROM THE GROUND WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO MEMORIALIZE THE LATE, GREAT CLIMBING, SLACKLINING, AND FLYING ARTIST DEAN POTTER? WE DECIDED TO TALK TO PEOPLE HE ONLY BRIEFLY MET, BUT FOREVER INSPIRED. by BRAD MILLER There have been many eulogies about Dean Potter from his family, friends and fellow climbers—the people who knew him best. But Potter was a living legend who touched the lives of many of us “normal” folks as he carved his singular path through a world that he made his playground. I met him once when I worked and climbed in Yosemite. It was a night like many others, complete with tall boys of warm King Cobra, cheap white zinfandel straight from the bottle, lots of laughing, stories. Dean Potter turned out to be as down-to-earth as the rest of us. It was a night that reinforced to me that climbing is a community. With that in mind, we have collected a few short stories about Dean, not from other famous climbers or BASE jumpers, but from everyday individuals who came briefly to know him. “We pulled into the Bridger Jack Mesa campground in the darkness of night and set up our tent. When we woke up, we realized Dean Potter and his friend Jean were camped next to us. We had breakfast together and talked as our dogs mingled around. My dog Arthur walked inside Dean's tent and stood on top photo courtesy JENNIFER RAPP

of his sleeping bag. Dean yelled with his booming voice, ‘Arthur, if you pee on my sleeping bag, I'm gonna pee on you!’ That night we drank whiskey and hung out with the duo as Jean cooked up wild rabbit he had ‘caught’ with his pickup truck. I passed on the rabbit, but my friend didn't. He ended up throwing up later. Maybe it was the whiskey.” —Evan Kay, North Pomfret, Vermont “One summer I happened into a bit of side work carrying gear for the Huber brothers' camera team. The Hubers were shooting a film about an ascent of El Cap, and needed people to shuttle heavy-ass packs from the valley floor to the top of El Cap. Afterwards, they invited us to a party outside of the park. I remember Dean manning the bar all night long, pouring drinks for people like he was a real bartender at an actual bar, while the rest of us got wrecked and threw firecrackers at each other.” —Russ Miller, Lawrence, Kansas “I was just learning how to slackline on lines that had been set up in Camp 4 during my first summer in The Valley in 2004. I was struggling. Dean gave me some brief words of encouragement and advice. He seemed like a wise old guru, and everybody there was just kind of silently watching in awe as this guy played around on the line. He would take huge leaps forward and quickly stick the landing and recover. He would jump between two lines. I had never seen anybody do that, nor had I ever even contemplated that it might be possible. That's what he did. He tried things nobody ever thought to try.” —Danny Loental, Kansas City, Missouri “It was a summer when I wasn't working. I was just dirtbagging in Yosemite. I had a plane ticket home so I could actually get a job back in Ohio, but what I

“LIFE, JUST LIVE IT” DEAN POTTER WITH HIS DOG WHISPER. THE GREATEST CLIMBER OF HIS GENERATION WAS A DOWN-TO-EARTH GUY WHO LEFT A LEGACY OF COMPASSION AND LAUGHS.

really wanted to do was stay in The Valley and climb all summer. I explained my situation to Dean and he looked at me and said, ‘Just do what you think will be the most fun. Everyone goes through life doing what others expect them to do when in reality, we all just need to do what we think will be the most fun.’ So, I stayed in The Valley and climbed all summer. I have never seen anyone live as free as Dean Potter, and I am honored that I got to know him.” —Keegan Rathkamp, Chillicothe, Ohio “It was another lovely night on the front porch of the Terrace kitchen. I was munching on a tasty box of Honey-O's sitting on the steps and hanging out with the usuals when a massive dude with giant man hands sits beside me and asks if he can have some of the Honey-O's. I said ‘yeah,’ and together he and I (mostly he with his massive mitts) finished off the cereal. Later, I was told that was Dean Potter who ate my cereal... the Dean Potter.” —Lindsey Yankey, Lawrence, Kansas “Dean towered over my five-foot frame but his great eye contact and warm smile made me feel like I was six-feet tall. He was a kind and soft human being. He listened to your every word with soft eyes, and responded with compassion or, like Silent Bob, made a gem of a comment that would stick with you forever. Once, we had a couple beers in the corner of the lodge bar and just talked about life and dreams and simple joys. He said, ‘I just want to live it. Life. I just want to live it.’ And you did, my friend, you certainly did.” —Sara Levinson, South Lake Tahoe, California

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ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / J U LY- A U G U S T 2 01 5

T HE W ILDEST WAY IN TO Y EL LOWSTONE.

TAKE OFF ON THESE FIVE ROAD TRIPS OUT OF DENVER FOR A SUMMER FULL OF ADVENTURE. by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

he perfect road trip requires one part spontaneity and two parts planning, especially in summer when campgrounds can fill with crowds. To that end, we have created this guide that will help you escape the heat and traffic of the Front Range without a whole lot of stress. We created three big itineraries— to Wyoming, Southern Colorado and Utah—and two long-weekend getaways. But don't forget that spurof-the-moment mind-set, either: Be ready to follow odd turns of the road, head in a different direction or make friends with the locals and explore spots we have left out of this magazine on purpose.

#1 THE BIG WYOMING LOOP Wyoming is everything you want it to be—big and empty and still raw. That makes it one of our favorite places to simply drive and wander, but our journeys photo by GREG VON DOERSTEN

north have also given us some insight into some spots you will want to make sure you hit. CURT GOWDY STATE PARK RIDE: While so many other mountain bikers are rushing off on long drives to seek their singletrack, the little gem of Curt Gowdy—named after the legendary Red Sox broadcaster and host of The American Sportsman—is less than two hours from Denver and does not require getting on I-70 (wyoparks.state.wy.us). The 25-mile trail system was designed by the International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA). That means it's a ripping ride that tours through three distinct ecosystems built with the wants of bikers in mind. FISH: Gowdy was a passionate fly angler who grew up in Wyoming so it's no surprise that the park's reservoirs, especially Granite, offer up brown trout, rainbow trout and kokanee salmon. CLIMB: Head just 30 minutes down the road to Vedauwoo, a trad climber's paradise renowned for its offwidths. Try

BLACKTOP WARRIORS: THE ROAD TRIP IS AN ART THAT CALLS FOR BOTH A PRIMAL SCREAM OF FREEDOM AND SOME SAVVY PACKING ABILITIES.

the 5.9 splitter crack Plumb Line—and who can resist a boulder problem called The Biggest Tits in Country Music (V3)? SHERIDAN/CLOUD PEAK WILDERNESS HIKE: The Tetons and Wind River Range get most of the attention when it comes to mountains in the cowboy state. That makes the Bighorns the place we head to escape. And though these peaks are not as impressive as their more popular cousins, the serene Cloud Peak Wilderness area tops out at 13,167 feet at the summit of Cloud Peak. It's a 23-mile round trip to climb that namesake mountain and the perfect diversion on a long Wyoming escape. Do it as a mission of a day hike or camp overnight at Mistymoon Lake. BACKPACK: If you really want to get off the grid for a bit, plan on a multi-day J U LY- A U G U S T 2 01 5 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

every year, rather than explore another state). A great trip in summer, it's even better in cool fall temps. ALAMOSA GET DOWN: Our plan is to make no stops as soon as we pull out of Denver until we reach Alamosa. There are few better places to stretch your legs than the Alamosa Wildlife Refuge (fws.gov/refuge/ alamosa). It's a unique southwestern wetland. Be sure to bring your binoculars. RESUPPLY: If you want to stay away from big-box outdoor retailers, wait and make you gear purchases here. Kristi Mountain Sports (slvoutdoor.com) is one of our favorite specialty outdoor retailers in Colorado.

BIGHORN BUZZ: WATCHING THE WORLD GO BY FROM THE HEIGHTS ABOVE LAKE GENEVA IN WYOMING’S CLOUD PEAK WILDERNESS.

backpack trip to Chill Lakes, which lie stretched across an alpine cirque and require a ramble off trail to reach. RELAX: Head to The Blacktooth Brewing Company (blacktoothbrewingcompany. com) in Sheridan for treats like a seasonal Barrel Aged IPA or the standby Saddle Bronc brown ale. CLIMB: Over on the west side of the Bighorns and the Cloud Peak Wilderness, Tensleep has become a climber's pilgrimage thanks to its sublime limestone walls. Be sure to hit Happiness in Slavery (5.12b), the first bolted route established here. CAMP: Head up and over Bighorn Pass and park your vehicle in one of the many campgrounds up here. We like Prune Creek with its stream running through camp. CODY HIKE: Yellowstone National Park has many gateways but Cody is the one that feels independent from the park itself. Credit that to the fact that there's a lot to do if you simply stay right here. Take the five-mile Blackwater Fire Memorial Trail. This national recreation trail tours the spot where 15 firefighters perished in 1937 and tops out with stunning views on Clayton Mountain. The trail is also open to bikes and makes for an excellent ride. SUP: If you are looking just to dip a paddle in some flatwater with the family (or for some parental downtime) park at Buffalo Bill State Park and hit the waters of the Buffalo Bill Reservoir. CAMP: Buffalo Bill state park is also the best place to camp close to town, with enough room for big vehicles. If you are looking for something a little more off the grid, head 28 miles out of town to the BLM-managed campsite on the Bobcat-Houlihan Trailhead. It's free! RESUPPLY: If you need more gear, head to Sunlight Sports (sunlightsports.com) in downtown Cody. This locally owned outdoor retailer can also give you beta for camping and adventures. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK CAMP: Yes, Yellowstone is full of gawking crowds, but that does not mean you should avoid it. Just find simple ways to get off the road and you will have to worry more about grizzlies than other people. Start by securing a spot at Slough Creek Campground. Its 23 sites feel cozy compared to some of the

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / J U LY- A U G U S T 2 01 5

photo by FLASH PARKER

mega-camps in the park and the fly fishing on Slough Creek itself is the stuff of legend. PADDLE: Shoshone Lake, which you cannot reach by car, is the largest backcountry lake in the Lower 48. From Lewis Lake, it's a three- or four-day excursion that's ideal for just about anyone, including kids and those interested in more adventurous SUP trips. GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK PADDLE: Before we get to the big breast itself (yes, that's what "Grand Teton" means), let's focus at your feet. The park's lakes anchor the place and excursions here can range from using a boat to access Mount Moran on the other side of Jackson Lake to a lazy SUP out of Colter Marina. If a raft trip is your thing, consider a full-day float along the Snake River. It's mellow enough for the kids to come along and ideal if you are looking to spend some time casting for fat rainbow and brown trout. CLIMB: OK, now on to the peaks. Climbing the 13,775-foot Grand is a rite of passage, and there are countless ways to get it done. Most novices head up the classic Upper Exum Ridge (5.5, 12 pitches) with (who else) Exum Mountain Guides (exumguides.com) but low-level climbers who want to go it alone can also have fun on the funky class 4 Owen Spaulding (be careful; it's not easy). Experienced climbers should head for the lovely, 10-pitch North Ridge (5.8) or even the pure line of the Direct Exum (5.7). Exum will also guide these routes. GET DOWN: There's one thing you want after big days in the Tetons— beer! And the Snake River Brewing Company (snakeriverbrewing.com) in Jackson is our top pick for the place to enjoy it (we recommend Pako's IPA). You may want to be here between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. for the $9 lunch, too.

#2 DIP INTO SOUTHERN COLORADO Close to the Front Range but different enough to feel like a big trip, southern Colorado is a big getaway close to home (see page 47, for Devon O'Neil's explanation of why he and his wife head this way

PAGOSA SPRINGS HIKE: At the feet of the San Juans, Pagosa is one fantastic place to take a walk in the woods. For a quick jaunt that gives you a lot of bang for your buck, check out Piedra Falls, which is just outside of town. On the other end of the spectrum, the Continental Divide Trail snakes by here and it offers access into the deeps of the Weminuche Wilderness, our favorite wild lands in the state. BIKE: The biggest draw is the Turkey Springs area just north of town. This network of trails, which was officially sanctioned and recently renamed, offers a number of ride options— long rides, short rides, rides for the whole family, rides that make you puke. The shorter loops run from 3.5 to 5 miles, longer options rack up to 15 miles, and of course you can keep riding and mixing the loops for new, longer, endless rides. GET DOWN: The town boasts two outstanding breweries to chose from The Pagosa Brewing Co. (pagosabrewing. com) and Riff Raff Brewing Co. (riffraffbrewing. com), and we are big fans of the fish tacos at Kip's Grill (kipsgrill.com). SOAK: Pagosa stinks. We mean it, but oh how we love that sweet smell of sulphur since it signals one thing—hot springs. The most popular place in town is The Springs Resort and Spa (pagosahotsprings.com), which we lovingly refer to as the mini-golf of hot springs. Each pool has a different temperature and theme (there's everything from the scalding, 108-degree Lobster Pot to the off-the-path, 102-degree Clouds in My Coffee to

LIGHT IT UP: SOUTHERN COLORADO STILL HAS SPOTS WHERE YOU CA

the make-new-friends waters of the 99-degree Sunset Social Club). Looking for a more romantic experience? Head to the rooftop pools of The Overlook (overlookhotsprings.com), enjoy the sunset and then stargaze the night away in steamy waters. DURANGO BIKE: Plenty of Colorado towns like to crow about their cycling scenes. Durango does not have to beat its chest. Start with the terminus of the Colorado Trail and some of the best singletrack on the planet on Molas Pass. Or bomb the Hermosa Creek Trail, a 22-mile rocket that begins at Durango Mountain Resort. And don't forget the road riding either: the trip from Durango up to Silverton is a 47-mile must-do, and you can make it a life-list multiday adventure if you circle down through Ouray, Telluride and back around to Durango. PADDLE: If you are looking for a casual or family-oriented float, there's no reason to leave town. The lower Animas serves up fun-filled Class II and III rapids, ideal for SUP or kids... oh, and just in sight of beer. GET DOWN: Durango is home to one of the winners of our Perfect Sixer beer poll. You, dear readers, said that Ska Brewing's Modus Hoperandi was the first Colorado beer you would put in your ideal mixand-match six pack. So stop by the brewery itself and enjoy one (or a summer seasonal Estival Cream Stout) in the beer garden along with pizza from The Container (containeroffood.com) restaurant. CORTEZ BIKE: It may be a little tricky to find, but the 27-mile system of trails known as Phil's World (just east of town to the north of Route 160) offers up a little bit of something for everyone. The Trust and Hippy House loops are ideal for kids and quick cruises, while the Ledges Loop calls to hardcores. HIKE: Get away from the crowds and interpretation of Mesa Verde and hike Canyon of the Ancients (blm.gov/ co/st/en/nm/canm.html) where there's still silence in the ruins. GET DOWN: Cortez produces some outstanding wines, chief among them the vintages at Guy Drew Vineyards (guydrewvineyards.com). Try the excellent Metate. And if you are sick of camping,

AN JUST PULL OVER AND ENJOY.

photo by LIAM DORAN

MONSTER VIEW: TAKING IN THE BIG EMPTY AT GOBLIN VALLEY.

photo by ADAM BARKER

book a room at the Best Western Turquoise Inn (bestwesterncolorado.com/hotels/best-westernturquoise-inn-and-suites) and say hi to the manager Nacho. When it's time to eat, it's hard to beat the Mexican at Pepperhead (pepperheadcortez.com)

#3 UTAH'S RED ROCKS

When fall temps start to cool things down, it's time to head to the desert. Here's out favorite itinerary. MOAB BIKE: In case you have not heard, Moab is a big bike town again. There were a few years when singletrack building in other towns seemed poised to knock one of the first MTB epicenters into obscurity but the town has made a concerted effort to move away from double-track and jeep roads and build worldclass new singletrack like Captain Ahab (truly the best technical downhill we have ever experienced). Why not combine new singletrack with camping and reserve a spot up at Dead Horse Point State Park (stateparks.utah.gov/parks/dead-horse) where a new, 16.6-mile loop encircles the campground. It's a good one for beginners and any rider will enjoy the view. CEDAR MESA HIKE: Cedar Mesa is full of contrasts. Two hours south of Moab, it's both off the radar and popular. It's full of ancient ruins that have been well preserved yet in danger of being destroyed by looters and careless visitors. One thing is for certain, it's a magical spot. If you just have one day to check it out, the Perfect Kiva hike is mandatory. It's a tough 10-mile hump to reach the place, but well worth the effort. Just don't climb on or disturb the ruins and leave any artifacts you may see. BACKPACK: A Grand Gulch immersion trip is the very best way to connect to this place and the options make it easy to do everything from a one-night quickie to a logisticsheavy multi-day epic ending at Lake Powell with a long boat ride back out. For starters, we suggest you undertake a relaxed 10-mile route from Bullet Canyon to Grand Gulch, camping two nights along the way and exploring ruins and side canyons.

CAPITOL REEF HIKE: Of all Utah's postcard-perfect national parks, Capitol Reef (nps.gov/care) keeps the lowest profileâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and those who love it want to keep it that way. The Waterpocket Fold holds some of the best hiking and canyon scrambling in the state. You can just get out of that camper and stretch your legs on a route (there are no true "trails" here) like the two-mile round trip in Surprise Canyon. If you are looking for a little more intensity, head to Lower Muley Twist Canyon, a fun slot. CAMP: Near the visitor center, Fruita Campground makes for an easy base and can handle big vehicles, but if you want to escape the constant hum of generators head to the free primitive campgrounds at Cathedral Valley and Cedar Mesa. Both are first-come, first-served. BOULDER/ESCALANTE HIKE: The "other" Boulder, here in Utah is not full of college students and Silicon Valley rejects. It's a quiet community with a strong sense of itself and some of the most spectacular scenery on the planet. It's also home to one of the best day hikes you will ever do. The Calf Creek Falls trail rambles 5.5 miles into a sandstone canyon before reaching an ideal picnic spot at the 125-foot-high Lower Calf Creek Falls. CANYONEER: There are few better places to get squeezed and scare yourself a little than Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. For some play time with the family (or even grown ups) shimmy through the mile-long Spooky in Coyote Gulch. If you want a difficult, technical classic, Choprock Canyon is calling your name. GET DOWN: Boulder has one heavenly restaurant... Hell's Backbone Grill (hellsbackbonegrill.com), which features produce from its local organic farm. GOBLIN VALLEY CAMP: Want the perfect campground for the kids? Goblin Valley State Park (stateparks.utah.gov/ parks/goblin-valley) is one freaky place to check out with its odd natural formations (don't be an orc and climb on them though) and the campground includes two rental yurts (very good places to be when the wind picks up and blows red dust through the park).

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#1 NORTH LOVELAND BIKE: Begin your getaway with a fat-tire spin on Devil's Backbone (larimer.org/parks/bbone.cfm). For some reason, this rollicking eight-mile ride of desert-style singletrack right on the Front Range doesn't see the crowds you would expect for such a classic. Want a longer loop? Hook this ride into another 30-miles of trail in adjoining Horsetooth Mountain Park (co.larimer.co.us/parks/htmp.cfm). POUDRE RIVER PADDLE: The free-flowing Cache la Poudre is the perfect river for that seemingly lost art of kayaking. Ideal for beginners and even better for experienced boaters, the river offers easy access and big water. Get out with the folks at Rocky Mountain Adventures to learn and up your game (shoprma.com). CAMP: Keep heading up Highway 14 on your way to Steamboat and stay a night at the yurts at Never Summer Nordic (neversummernordic.com). STEAMBOAT SUP: Now that you have perfected your kayak skills, it's time to learn how to downriver SUP with the folks at Steamboat Paddleboard Adventures (steamboatpaddleboardadventures.com). BIKE: Steamboat bills itself as Bike Town U.S.A. for good reason. After you get off the river, ride the 10.7-mile Spring Creek Trail right out of town. STAY: How about a night in a caboose and a hot springs soak? Check yourself into Strawberry Park Hot Springs (strawberryhotsprings.com). SUMMIT COUNTY BIKE: One last stop on your way back to Denver. Leave it all on the table with a massive ride on the Colorado Trail out of Breckenridge. It will make the traffic easier to bear.

photo by DEVON BALET

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SALIDA BIKE: Salida has undertaken a concerted effort to make itselfa mountain bike destination And oh the variety you will find here. Kids will love the rolling butter singletrack of Methodist Mountain and the Little Rainbow Trail. Parents can take turns riding S-Mountain while young kids splash in the Arkansas right outside of the headquarters of Absolute Bikes (absolutebikes.com). And of course the Monarch Crest always beckons for a big day (try the shorter Fooses Creek cut-off we featured in the June 2015 issue of EO). GET DOWN: You have two outstanding pizza options here: Amica's (amicassalida.com), which offers its own craft beer, or Moonlight Pizza (moonlightpizza.biz), the place to be on Mondays when 10 percent of profits go to a different local community organization (check the events page). Also, you will certainly want to be in Salida on August 21 and 22 when Mumford and Sons Gentlemen of the Road Tour (gentlemenoftheroad.com) comes to town, a music extravaganza featuring the British folkers as well as The Flaming Lips, Jenny Lewis, Dawes, Tune-Yards and many more acts. GREAT SAND DUNES NATIONAL PARK CAMP: Colorado's dunes certainly feel like a fantasy land, with a Sahara of sand under your feet and rows of snow-capped peaks in the sky, and the PiĂąon Flats Campground (nps.gov/grsa) gives you access to a day of wandering rambles on the dunes straight out of your tent. RYE STOPOVER: How can a road trip be complete without a roadside attraction like the built-by-hand Bishop's Castle (bishopcastle.org)? It's free and the public is allowed to (respectfully) climb around and explore. CANON CITY Finish off this short southern epic with sport climbing at Shelf Road (blm.gov). Tick off a classic that everyone can enjoy like Blackman's Burden (5.10c).

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The

Road to Taos

OR WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU CRUISE TO NEW MEXICO IN A FULLY-LOADED 1988 VOLKSWAGEN VANAGON WESTFALIA. by JOSEPH RISI

scaping winter and seeking warm refuges down south is a priority of mine when winter lingers into spring on the Front Range. I go on my way, in sandals. And as that iconic roadtripper, Dennis Hopper, once said, “There is destiny in Taos.” An Easy Rider fan myself and having been to Taos several times during winter months, I never understood the allure, maybe the blizzards covered the shambhala. So there was only one thing to do, when winter came in May to Boulder. I would have to go back to find Mr. Hopper's destiny—and I would have to do it in the appropriate style. Friends had turned me on to Rocky Mountain Camper Vans in Golden. Started by a couple who had recently embarked on a vanagon venture of their own, the outfit rents out newly vintage and fully vintage Volkswagen vans. But this is no Easy Rider throwback—RMCV fully kits these babies out. This is true easy riding with everything included: stove, fridge, pots, pans, silverwear, headlamps, cutting boards, camp chairs, even fresh linens for the beds, yes, plural. All you need to do is hit the quickie mart for some essentials and off you go. Boyd, one of the owners, gave me a quick runphotos by JOSEPH RISI

thorugh of the intricacies of my chosen battleship before I hit the open road. He explained that each Volkswagen truly has a mind of its own Soon, I plugged my iPhone into the shiny new radio, streamed a classic rendition of “Franklin's Tower” and set off in an unnamed 1988 Volkswagen Vanagon Westfalia edition. After rigging up some tacky LED Christmas lights and plugging them into the inverter, I picked up my co-pilot/girlfriend, her unsuspecting friend visiting from Philly and my trusty pointer Loosa. We left the Front Range behind and I let the steamship gradually reach cruising speed. Boyd had advised I take it easy on the brand-new 90-horsepower engine, a transplant that was only 500 miles into it's break-in period. He also reminded me to embrace the journey, and to accept that 60 miles per hour is a decent goal but that I would need to “feel it out." “You'll find your speed,” he had assured me.

s we climbed from mile-high elevation to 7,000 feet to almost 10,000 feet as we neared Fairplay, Colorado, I began to understand what Boyd meant by “feel it out” in terms of speed. My best guess was, find another Westy (common nickname for the Westfalia), and follow it. Which is pretty easy if

you’re cruising along back roads in the West. I also found a new respect for orienting a fifteen foot bus in Colorado during Rocky Mountain monsoon season, which equated to rain, sleet, snow, hail and gusts that had even blown a semi-truck off the road. My mantra was go slow, no quick corrections and let the steering wheel float in your hands. It was at this point on the journey, as we made our way south on RT 159 passing by the Sangre de Cristo Ranches and Culebra Peak, that I swear Peter Fonda and Dennis Hopper came into view in the Westy's enlarged rear view mirror. Harleys, Triumphs, three-wheel chromed-out machines the roar of V-Twin engines and leather passed by us. They were out in clubs and adorned on their backs were patches: Sons of Silence, Vagos, Bandidos. Then I noticed that our fuel level was bordering on low. As we crossed the New Mexico border into

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the town of Garcia, a single gas station came into sight (the only one in town). I let the bus coast in. In no time, we were surrounded by the motorcycle clubs, eyeing us as if we were hippies stright out of 1969. (I'm positive I heard Jimi Hendrix's “If 6 Was 9” bellow from a chopper's speakers.) To my left, a group was passing around a fifth of Jack, and to my right was a tattooed couple with matching leather vests adjusting their tattered leather chaps before they hit the pavement. The only thing missing was our tie dye. We descended into Taos and past its pueblo with these outlaw riders swarming around us. We quickly learned that the Red River Motorcycle Rally had taken over Taos and pretty much all the blacktop in the surrounding area this weekend. Motorcycles be damned, we were on the hunt for the ultimate mole and cervezas. Eating establishments with a long wait usually cause the New York blood within me to boil. Not so when you're traveling in a Westy. The party is always inside. We met up with some long-lost friends on a roadtrip of their own in a parking lot we uncorked a few bottles of wine, popped the camper top and turned the front seats around and bam! in an instant, our steed became our living room. Forty-five minute wait? Bring it on. Thankfully, takeout from the Love Apple of Taos did not disappoint. In fact, I still have a jar of their famous mole in my freezer. Surrounded by national forests and BLM land, we made our way towards the Ski Valley, in search of a place to pop the camper top for the night. Nestled alongside the Rio Hondo, we curled up in the double bed belowwith the pup, while our friend got the penthouse up top all to herself. At dawn, we broke camp in just minutes and set our sights on devouring breakfast at the Taos Diner. The famed breakfast burritos with Christmas sauce awaited us.

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he rest of the weekend lived up to what we had hoped for: We had escaped rain and snow up in the Front Range to embrace wanderings on the backroads of northern New Mexico. Spring in the Southwest is surely something to be one with, whether you're behind the wheel of a vintage Volkswagen bus or sharing the backseat with a hitchhiker, who identified himself as a New Age practitioner (I admit, it was my idea to pick him up). The sweet scent of piñon and sagebrush filled the air. We hiked the banks of the Rio Grande gorge and visited friends on Michael Reynolds Earthship Ranch. We soaked our bones in the Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs. We took it slow heading back home and stopped in Salida, Colorado, to ride some singletrack and grab pizza. Renting a Volkswagen bus made us part of a gang of our own. Fellow vanagons would give us “Westy Wave," and when we pulled into a gas station we were instant superstars. I'm going to miss hanging out in the right lane and so many of the other fun times we had with Frankie, the name we christened our Vanagon. And wherever he is, I know his current passengers are enjoying their own destiny. —Joseph Risi recently became race director for the COSMIC series (Colorado Ski Mountaineering Series) where he can be seen organizing skimo races throughout the west to make skiers suffer uphill and down.

Through this collection, FITS® is proud to contribute to the National Park Foundation to support the restoration and preservation of America’s most treasured resources. The National Park Foundation, in partnership with the National Park Service, enriches America’s national parks and programs through private support, protecting America’s special places, connecting people to parks, and inspiring the next generation of park stewards.

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SHOP AT THE FOLLOWING COLORADO LOCATIONS: Twenty Ninth Street Boulder

HIGHER EDUCATION WANT TO GET SCHOOLED IN THE ARTS AND SCIENCES OF THE WILD? MEET THE WINNERS OF OUR TOP OUTDOOR ADVENTURE COLLEGE POLL. by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN This spring, 32 colleges and universities battled it out online in our Top Outdoor Adventure College bracket. We wanted to know what schools in the Rockies and Southwest were the best places to train yourself not only in the art of enjoying nature—but more so how to go on and forge a career as an athlete, adventurer, conservationist or some combination of them all. And the winner is…

WESTERN STATE COLORADO UNIVERSITY GUNNISON, COLORADO

Western State slowly and steadily rose to the top of this poll, and it's no surprise why. The university has been evolving the paradigm when it comes to outdoor adventure and academia. “Western State faculty and administration have known for a century that students came to Western because of ‘where it is,’ But in the 1990s, a new breed of Western faculty began to operate on the assumption that ‘where the university is’ could come to be a distinguishing quality of what the university is,” says George Sibley, author and longtime teacher at Western. “Students now are given an introduction to the ‘headwaters of the Southwest’ as part of their orientation, to help them articulate what it is that they perhaps come here seeking.” Situated just a free bus ride down the road from Crested Butte (and 45 minutes from Monarch Mountain) and boasting some of the best singletrack, whitewater and fly fishing in the state practically on campus, Western encourages its students to play (it's no surprise that legends like skier Seth Morrison and mountain bike champ Dave Weins went here). The university's on-campus Wilderness Pursuits program offers everything from avalanche gear to kayaks to rent. Plus, pros and students alike can take advantage of the High Altitude Performance Laboratory. And instead of just ski-bumming, business students can take classes on the mountain to learn the ins and outs of ski area management. The real thing that sets Western apart, however, is the staff. Faculty like Dr. Duane Vandenbusche, a famed ski historian, and John Hausdoerffer, a Western grad himself who runs the environmental studies program ranked number four in the U.S., teach how students can transform their love of outdoor adventure into meaningful careers. “If you’re seeking a small town and open space photo courtesy WESTERN STATE COLORADO UNIVERSITY

WIDE OPEN MINDS: WESTERN STATE HAS MADE ITS PRIME LOCATION A KEY PART OF ITS CORE CURRICULUM.

Western is untouchable," says Adam Howard, who has gone on to become the owner and publisher of Alpinist and Backcountry magazines since his days as a student at Western State. "If this kind of place isn’t where adventure begins, I don’t know what is.”

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SECOND PLACE UNIVERSITY OF UTAH SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH

We thought the Utes were going to take this title. After all the school had no problem bumping off Elevation Outdoors big, backyard universities, Colorado State and the University of Colorado. Embracing its wild side, the U of U embraces its proximity to the Wasatch Range while developing programs like Outdoor Education, which rents gear and hosts trips into Utah's wilderness. “Going to the U allowed me to begin actually working in the outdoor and snow-sports industries while I was a student,” says pro skier, Protect Our Winters conservationist, social media master and Powder cover model Caroline Gleich. “It's a choose-your-own-adventure kind of school with opportunities for flexible learning to balance anyone's goals.” RUNNERS UP REGIS UNIVERSITY

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DENVER, COLORADO

While many better known Front Range schools were in our bracket, it was Regis that survived to the final four. The Jesuit school's Outdoor Program seeks to bring its spiritual foundation into its location with the mountains and adventure just out the back door—a powerful combo. COLORADO MOUNTAIN COLLEGE COLORADO

With campuses across Western Colorado, CMC is a school built to foster outdoor adventure alongside academic exploration. It also came up with the best response to our bracket. When CMC lost out to Western State in the semi-finals, it spurred a spontaneous hashtag campaign of #TooAdventerousToVote, claiming that they may have lost, but that's because they were, you know, too busy out adventuring to vote in online polls.

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S P E C I A L A DV E RT I S I N G S E C T I O N

BEVERAGE GUIDE IT’S TIME TO CHILL. BEVERAGE GUIDE

WE HAVE IT SO GOOD. Here in Colorado, we have mountains and singletrack and wilderness and rivers. We have a lot of space to go outside and play. We also know how to do downtime. Innovative Colorado craft brewers, winemakers and distillers are making this state the epicenter of beverage culuture. We suggest you have it all. Explore the wild then sit back and enjoy it with these fine local drinks.

KANNAH CREEK Just west of the Continental Divide in Grand Junction, some of the purest water in the state flows down Kannah Creek... and straight into the award-winning beers produced at Kannah Creek Brewing Company. The newest offering, Island Mesa Blonde—a crisp English summer ale—serves up cool refreshment on warm summer days, yet it’s got the perfect amount of hops for sipping around the campfire with friends. Best of all? It’s available in most Front Range liquor stores.

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S P E C I A L A DV E RT I S I N G S E C T I O N

BEVERAGE GUIDE

Days are longer, nights are warmer, drinks are colder, laughter is louder. Enjoy Summer.

www.woodsdistillery.com

144 W. 1st StREET • 719-207-4315 • Tasting room open daily • Tours • Handmade Spirits from Salida, CO WOOD ’S HIGH MOUNTAIN DISTILLERY Salida’s one Colorado town you must visit this summer. It’s home to the world-famous FIBArk whitewater festival. It claims a proactive mountain bike community that builds new trails (and can give you beta on classics like the Monarch Crest). And Monarch Mountain is just up the road. Beyond outdoor adventure, it’s also the epicenter of Colorado’s powerful local economy movement—supporting everything from art galleries to bike shops to craft brewers... and one world-class distillery. Right in the heart of downtown inside a renovated auto garage, brothers P.T. and Lee Wood have been creating some of the high country’s most unique whiskeys, gins and assorted liquors for the past three years. With the help of “Ashley,” their 135-year-old German pot still, Wood’s is turning out some exceptional spirits. Tenderfoot Whiskey is the distillery’s pride and joy. It uses five separate malts that make it both smoky, and spicy. The Treeline Gin, a traditional dry style, uses the finest mountain water, Colorado juniper, grains of paradise, coriander and several other fine botanicals. Looking for an interesting departure from the norm? Ask for Treeline Barrel Rested Gin. To create it, the brothers age Wood’s regular gin in charred American Oak barrels, which impart a complex flavor profile reminiscent of whiskey. The Alpine Rye Whiskey uses 70-percent malt-rye and a 30-percent mixture of cherry wood smoked and chocolate barley malts to create a sweet sipper with a spicy finish. Love craft beers? Grab a bottle of the Mountain Hopped Gin. By adding fresh Cascade hops from Paonia, Wood’s may have created one of the most unique spirits on the market. Finally, just in time for summer, the Fleur de Sureau Elderflower Liqueur is ideal for sipping around the campfire. Curious? Stop by the tasting room located at 144 W. 1st St. in Salida and ask for one of Wood’s crafted cocktails. If you are not in heaven, then you’re pretty damn close.

WOODSDISTILLERY.COM | 719.207.4315 PHOTO: TBL PHOTOGRAPHY

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S P E C I A L A DV E RT I S I N G S E C T I O N

BEVERAGE GUIDE

ODELL BREWING COMPANY Summertime is here, and it’s time to hit the road in search of adventure. Why not head to Fort Collins—or Fort Fun as the locals call it? This college town is known for everything from world-class rafting on the Cache La Poudre River to a rollicking downtown that’s stuffed full of eateries and locals who know how to relax while having a good time. But the best thing in Fort Collins is the beer—and there is enough of it to make Homer Simpson smile. Especially in summer. The 26th annual Colorado Brewers Festival takes place June 27-28 in downtown Ft. Collins. With over 50 breweries present, that should be reason alone to come visit. On any other day, 12 breweries busily ferment across town, so chances are high you will find some great beer no matter when you visit. But if you are looking for some truly spectacular concoctions, one spot shines above the rest: Odell Brewing Company.

Odell’s recently expanded brewery and taproom is the perfect Fort Collins spot to kick back and unwind. Sit in the outdoor beer garden and you can let your mind wander while contemplating the majesty of the Front Range and sipping superior suds. With live music every Wednesday and Sunday, and over twenty different beers on tap—including several taproom-only brewer specials from Odell’s micro pilot brewery—you won’t want to leave. And you won’t have to, at least if you get hungry: A different food truck parks out front each day to keep you filled with good grub. Looking to see how the beer is created? Brewery tours begin daily on the hour between 1:00 p.m. and 4:00 p.m. This summer, Odell’s is offering two interesting new beers available throughout the state. Brombeere Blackberry Gose is something quite unique, a German-style sour wheat beer, loaded with blackberry

ODELLBREWING.COM | 970.498.9070

flavors that make it the perfect summer sipper. At only 4.8 percent alcohol by volume, this tangy and sweet brew with a crisp finish is easy to enjoy without fears of falling off your stool. It’s available in four-packs. The other is Piña Agria, the latest release from Odell’s celebrated Cellar Series. This is a subtly sweet sour beer with a pineapple flavor and a tart finish that will leave your taste buds begging for another sip. At 6.5 percent alcohol by volume, it’s the perfect beer to share with friends before dinner in the backyard or by the campfire. It’s available in 750ml bombers. If you are looking for a grab-n-go selection of beers, or you need the perfect gift to bring to the neighborhood BBQ, make sure to pick up Odell’s Summer Montage Variety 12 Pack, featuring IPA, Loose Leaf, St. Lupulin and Perle White IPA. It’s the ideal combo for stocking the cooler. Best of all, the Perle White IPA is an experimental, limited release.

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S P E C I A L A DV E RT I S I N G S E C T I O N

BEVERAGE GUIDE

FAST FACTS COLORADO BREWERIES

Compass brings together copious amounts of Columbus, Chinook and Cascade hops in a tasty combination that lingers beyond the finish. Big hop flavor with malt in a nice supporting role.

COMPASS IPA

6.1

BRISTOL BREWING After 21 years, Bristol Brewing is finally legal—but they’re still studying up. Two years after moving into historic Ivywild School, business is booming. With two expansive patios to sip on their award winning beers, it’s the perfect place to unwind. Just tapped for summer break, Yellow Kite Pilsner is a throwback to the classic European Pils, with Czech Saaz and German Hallertauer hops. Also don’t miss the enlightened White IPA, perfect for the poolside.

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Four-packs of: • Glider Cider ® • Dry • Cherry • Grasshop-ah

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SEPTEMBER 24-26 DENVER, COLORADO 6,000 TOTAL ATTENDEES SAMPLE 4,000 BEERS 800 U.S. BREWERIES

BEVERAGE GUIDE

S P E C I A L A DV E RT I S I N G S E C T I O N

distillery tours free tastings appetizers rum bar

montanyadistillers.com

SEPTEMBER 18-20, 2015 PAGOSA SPRINGS COLORADO SMALL TOWN, BIG EVENT FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 18 Passport to Pagosa Wine and Food Festival 6:00 p.m.- An over 21 event, featuring wines from around the world, food from local restaurants and live music. SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 19 Mass Balloon Ascension 8:00 a.m. from Downtown Pagosa Springs Pagosa Springs Music and MicroBrew Festival 3:00-7:30 p.m. Beer Tasting from Micro-breweries of Northern New Mexico and Colorado. Children s activities, food vendors, live bands and a Hot Air Balloon Glow. SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 20 Mass Balloon Ascension from the uptown-Pinion Lake Area. 8.a.m. FOR MORE INFO, CONTACT CHERYL AT EVENTS@PAGOSACHAMBER.COM | 970-264-2360 | PAGOSACHAMBER.COM

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T H E L A RGE ST B R E WP UB I N TH E CO LO RA D O RO CKI ES!

FAST FACTS COLORADO DISTILLERRIES

There are 75 distilleries in Colorado and more every month.

#2 Col d Dam B eer On Ta p ! Seas o n al s , S i g na tu re , Se s s i o n , B arre l Age d

Open Daily 11 A M Just Off I-70 D illon Exit 205

Over 70 M en u Ite ms Kids M en u , B eer Ga rd e n

dam brewer y.com 970-262-7777

DILLON DAM BREWERY The largest brewpub in the Colorado Rockies just got better. With a newly revamped menu focusing on Colorado sourced items, the food at the Dam is fresher than ever. The summer pub dinner menu offers up a wide range of mountain favorites including Maple Bourbon Pecan Trout, Bison Meatloaf, Honey Sriracha Salmon and Pork Schnitzel. If you are the type who enjoys creative, masterful brews, the Dillon Dam Brewery is a mandatory stop. With 13–15 fresh creations pouring daily from the taps, you will not go thirsty here. Seasonal favorites like Hefeweizen, Yo Han Bock, Grapefruit IPA and Nitro Chocolate Milk Stout will help you unwind after a day of adventuring in the Summit County peaks and streams. Want to take some beer home with you? Be sure to grab one of the limited-edition 22-ounce bottles. Each bottling is limited to 200 or less, and they include many rarities. Need more than that? You can purchase your own 64-ounce Hydro Flask Beer Growler on site (or bring your own). The vacuum-insulated container will keep your brew ice cold and carbonated for up to 24 hours—perfect for a cookout or concert.

DAMBREWERY.COM

Colorado has the second most distilleries in the country.

Colorado Distilleries produce virtually every kind of spirit you need to fill a bar. From bourbon to malt whiskey and absinthe to elderflower liqueur, plus everything in between.

Most Colorado distilleries offer tours, have tasting rooms and will sell bottles to take home.

Three out of the last four years a Colorado distillery has been The American Distilling Institute’s Distiller of the Year.

Colorado’s first DSP’s (Distilled Spirits Plant) licenses were issued in 2005.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a wild place of great mystery, where past and present come to meet.

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GEAR

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Summer Shenanigans TIRED OF TESTING GEAR IN THE USUAL WAY, EO CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ADAM CHASE GOT CREATIVE WHEN HE WENT OUT AND PLAYED IN THE LATEST URBAN-STYLED ADVENTURE APPAREL.

Photography by MARIE-DOMINIQUE VERDIER

Some people take themselves seriously. Others take their clothing seriously. Still others take little seriously but wear seriously-made clothing for fun. I’m in the third category. It is probably a preemptive thing: If I laugh at myself, others are likely to join. Better they laugh with me rather than at me, right? The following outfits are hopefully slick enough that people will only smile not laugh at the buffoon who’s wearing them. —Adam Chase

ASCENSION

Sometimes TSA agents ask me if I’m a climber. Well, being as gravitationallychallenged as I am, I often have to climb shelves, as I did here at the world headquarters of The Feed (thefeed. com). It is a good thing I tipped over Clif bars because the beet and banana Organic Energy Food would have left a mess and done its best to stain the DWR-coated 1. Swrve Lightweight Regular Fit Shorts ($85; swrve.us) and odor-fighting, silver X-Static and Lycra fabricated 2. Lululemon Evolution Polo ($88; lululemon.com). But the 3. Stance Pace OTC socks ($36; stance.com) are pugnacious enough that they’d likely challenge any potential stain to a rumble. J U LY- A U G U S T 2 01 5 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

GEAR

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IMMERSION 2.

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Nevermind that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a goofball. At least I know how to make a splash at Boulder's University Inn pool by wearing a 1. Tracksmith Signature Tech Tee ($68; tracksmith.com). And when I do imitate Nirvana, I wear moisture-wicking shorts like the 2. Lululemon Kahuna Short 2 Quick Wick ($78; lululemon.com).

GEAR

07.15

INVERSION

2. 1.

Life can feel upside down at times, but Arc’teryx tends to right the world, especially if you wear sport-friendly clothes capable of passing the sniff test at the office. The 1. A2B Commuter Jacket ($225; arcteryx.com) features a big reflective strip behind the collar and on the cuff for night safety that's easy to fold away for daily presentation while the 2. Peakline SS Shirt ($75) counts as a “work shirt” because it has both a collar and buttons. It’s not the shirt’s fault that it's made from a breathable, moisturewicking blended textile. And the 3. A2B Chino Pant ($119) is trim fitting (or loose for non-chicken-legged runners) and conveniently water repellant should a kid toss milk at you in an effort to evacuate you from the playground rings.

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10-12 Bandscramble 12-1 Robin Kessinger & Robert Shafer 1-3 The Brummy Brothers 3-5 Dead Winter Carpenters 5-7 Jared & The Mill 7-9 Mustered Courage 9-11 Red Wanting Blue

SUNDAY 7/26

MULTICULTURAL & MULTI-GENRE

High Noon: Open Ceremonies 12-1 Robin Kessinger & Robert Shafer 1-3 Billy Shaddox 3-5 The Brummy Brothers 5-7 Farewell Milwaukee 7-9 The Whisky Gentry 9-11 Guthrie Brown & The Family Tree

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2 STAGES s 22 ACTS

ALWAYS A WINNING HAND FRIDAY 7/24

THE YOUNG DUBLINERS

9-12 State Competitions 12-1 Robin Kessinger & Robert Shafer 1-3 Shook Twins 3-5 Kort McCumber

oysterridgemusicfestival.com

HEAR THIS

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HOT SUMMER BREW JAMS LOOKING FOR COLORADO FESTIVALS WHERE BEER TAKES CENTER STAGE ALONGSIDE THE BANDS? READ ON. by JEDD FERRIS Drink, dance, repeat. That’s what it’s all about at Colorado’s growing number of craft beer festivals. Micro-suds operations continue to multiply, and these fests offer the opportunity to sample a bunch of different beers in one shot. Soundtracked by some of the best in roots music—national and local—it all certainly adds up to a perfect summer afternoon. BRECKENRIDGE BREWERY HOOTENANNY JULY 18, LITTLETON You can't get more Rocky Mountain High than this: Two Colorado institutions—Breckenridge Brewery and Leftover Salmon—will come together to celebrate Breck’s 25th anniversary, as well as the opening of a new 12-acre brewery in Littleton. Salmon, which recently added Little Feat’s Bill Payne as a permanent member, will be jamming, along with soulful New Orleans guitar ace Anders Osborne, innovative tunesmith Zach Deputy and Texas-based string outfit MilkDrive. One ticket price includes the tunes, grub from a pig roast and plenty of beer, including a new limited collaboration release between Breckenridge and Salmon. The new brewing outpost is right on the South Platte River Mary Carter Greenway Bike Path—pedaling to the event is encouraged. breckbrew.com

photo by BARRY BRECHEISEN/BLUES AND BREWS

KYLE’S BREW FEST JULY 23, DENVER Before his band takes the stage for a big three-night run at Red Rocks, the String Cheese Incident’s Kyle Hollingsworth will host this pre-party at the Big Wonderful at Sustainability Park. The keyboardist and avid home brewer will play a show with his solo band and unveil this year’s Hoopla Pale—his seasonal collaboration with Boulder Beer. The event will also feature special musical guests and tastings from more than 30 craft breweries. kylehollingsworth.com

SIPPIN' DEMOCRACY: YES, YOU CAN CHOOSE (AND TASTE) THE BEST BEERS AT BLUES AND BREWS' GRAND TASTING.

stages in Keystone village, while the crowd sips the goods from more 30 craft breweries. The festival also offers workshops for aspiring bluegrass players, including one dedicated to vocals and harmonies with members of the Rangers and a songwriting session with Claire Lynch. keystonefestivals.com WINTER PARK BEER FESTIVAL AUGUST 8, WINTER PARK Unlimited sampling from noon to 5 p.m. should make for a hazy afternoon at Hideaway Park in downtown Winter Park. Some of Colorado’s best will be included on the roster of 30-plus breweries at this fest, while at least three bands will keep the crowd moving. Newgrass slingers Trout Steak Revival are already slated for the bill with others still to be announced. Tickets for this one typically sell out, so grab them in advance. winterparkbeerfestival.com

SUMMER BREWFEST JULY 24–25, DENVER Too many choices. That’s what craft beer lovers get at this two-day fest at Mile High Station. Approximately 50 breweries—from local upstarts to national favorites—per day will be pouring their best, and for one price, you can enjoy unlimited tastings for three hours. While you imbibe, dig the sounds of rising bluegrass outfit Rapidgrass Quintet (Friday) and psych-blues crew Dragondeer (Saturday). Bonus: The bucks you spend on beer at this fest support local tunes, as proceeds benefit Swallow Hill Music, a nonprofit music school that offers a wide range of classes and concerts around Denver. Double bonus: Brewfest will return with a winter edition in January. denverbrewfest.com BLUEGRASS AND BEER FESTIVAL AUGUST 1–2, KEYSTONE Some mighty fine picking and drinking will be going down at Keystone in August. Bridging the musical gap between Appalachia and the Rockies, the 19th running of this annual fest will feature traditionally minded acts like Steep Canyon Rangers and Blue Highway alongside more progressive outfits Cornmeal and Horseshoes & Handgrenades. In total 13 acts will be showing off fleet fingers on three

TELLURIDE BLUES & BREWS FESTIVAL SEPTEMBER 18–20, TELLURIDE It will be tough to find a better way to end the summer than this three-day bash featuring a huge slate of killer tunes and fermented goodness from more than 50 top-notch breweries. Town Park will be rocking with a rootsy blend of big headliners, including ZZ Top, Sharon Jones and the Dap Kings, Gregg Allman, Taj Mahal and John Hiatt. The undercard is solid as well, featuring the Blind Boys of Alabama, Blackberry Smoke, The Revivalists, and Colorado’s own Nathaniel Rateliff, among many others. On the beer side, Saturday’s Grand Tasting will feature 56 breweries pouring 170 different beers. Be sure to sip some water too. At 8,750 feet, all those high-gravity micros will do some damage. tellurideblues.com

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Beer makers Dinner July 10, 2015

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summit challenge trail run and bbq July 26, 2015

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THE ROAD

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"You lose track of time on a road trip. A good one, anyway. That is part of its magic."

THE SEPTEMBER ESCAPE EVERY FALL THE AUTHOR AND HIS WIFE HEAD OUT ON A ROAD TRIP THAT GOES NO FARTHER THAN THEIR HOME STATE OF COLORADO—TO REDISCOVER THE PLACE WHERE THEY LIVE AND THEMSELVES. by DEVON O'NEIL

Ever since my wife and I started dating in 2004, we have spent the last week of September on the road in southern Colorado. We go to explore new towns and trails and mountain ranges. We go for the local food and beer—and the hot springs, of course. We go for the foliage, which makes you feel like you dropped acid then stepped inside a kaleidoscope as you drive through each aspen grove. But mostly we go for us. It's hard to quantify the distractions we accept as standard in our everyday lives. Work, play, family, Internet, errands… the list can feel endless and, at times, stifling. Worse, it can make getting away feel impossible. Why risk an even greater sense of submersion when you can just stay home and live within the submersion you are already (barely) able to manage? This subtle tug-of-war exists at the root of all road trips—the ones that happen as well as the ones that don’t. We have always made sure our September trip photos by DEVON O'NEIL

happens. It’s too important. Too simple, when it comes down to it: Throw a bunch of crap in the truck and start driving. It is the one stretch a year we have come to reserve exclusively for us. We started out with two nights and three days, but soon realized we never wanted to go home on the third day. So we switched to three nights and four days. We still never want to go home, but we had to draw a line. Usually we try and hit three spots—some combination of small towns and high passes and riverfront campgrounds—unless we really, really like a place; then we’ll stick around for an extra day and concede a third destination.

hen it comes to people, road tripping is kind of like walking through an airport, but better and with more props. You see a cross section of society you simply don’t see in your hometown. For example, one night Larissa and I pulled into a creekside campground between South Fork and Wolf Creek Pass. We claimed a spot in a stand of lodgepole pine, set up our tent and made a fire. Soon enough a family of five arrived next to us in an RV. They arranged chairs around their fire pit and quickly got a blaze going. Then the man did the darndest thing: He carried out a generator from his makeshift living room, plugged in a spotlight bright enough for a prison yard, rigged it to his roof and trained it on the campfire. I still don’t know how they roasted their marshmallows without sunglasses. We were chuckling about that the next morning when we set out for Lake City. Soon enough the joke would be on me. We spent the night on a creek just north of town, wolfed down a pair of “French Bopper” breakfasts at the Tic Toc Diner, then headed

MAKE IT SIMPLE: IT’S NOT HARD TO FIND THE TIME TO TAKE A BIG ROAD TRIP. AS AUTHOR DEVON O’NEIL SAYS, "THROW A BUNCH OF CRAP IN THE TRUCK AND START DRIVING."

up Cinnamon Pass toward Silverton. Do not drive Cinnamon Pass if you care about your vehicle more than your cat. I know that now. At the time, I thought it would be just another dirt road over a high saddle. We averaged 5 to 10 mph the whole way, cringing every 20 yards on behalf of the truck. I wanted to tell it I was sorry the lurching and scraping was so horrific, yet I still didn’t know the extent of it.

“For every fourteener that gets grossly crowded on summer Saturdays, you can climb 20 other peaks with no one in sight.” We pulled into Silverton around 5 p.m. and, with darkening skies and sleet in the forecast, opted to forgo the tent for a room at the Triangle Motel. I ducked out for a quick mountain bike ride along the Animas River before dinner. On my first descent, while schussing downhill at 20 mph, I felt my front wheel wobble for an instant then detach from the frame entirely, torpedoing me into the rocky earth like a spear. A few minutes of self-collection later, I examined my bike to see what had caused such carnage. Turns out, the drive over Cinnamon Pass was so violent that the quick-release horseshoes at the bottom of the fork had broken off while attached

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THE ROAD

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GOLDEN YEARS: CELEBRATING THE STATE BRINGS THE AUTHOR AND HIS WIFE LARISSA TO SPOTS LIKE THIS ABOVE MARBLE WHERE THEY ONLY HAVE TO SHARE THE TRAIL WITH ASPEN GROVES IN FULL GLORY.

to the mount in my truck bed, leaving little for the wheel to cling to when I rode it. If I had been at home, that crash would have affected me for days. I would have dreaded the hassle of replacing the fork. I would have mourned the rest of my riding season. But when you are on the road, you move on immediately. I threw the bike in the back of the truck without lament, and we grabbed a map and picked out a peak to hike the next day.

ou lose track of time on a road trip. A good one, anyway. That is part of its magic. Still, contrary to what conventional logic suggests, you don’t have to go far to feel far away. A few times in the early years of our September tradition, we considered dipping down to Taos, New Mexico, or Sedona, Arizona, or even up to Montana. But we never did. In fact, we have never crossed the state line on these trips. This is largely because we don’t need to. We seek empty trails, quaint, funky towns, bright colors and big peaks. Sometimes outsiders laugh at the prospect of finding all those things in Colorado, as if we live in some kind of imposter utopia. But the ideal here is alive and well. For every fourteener that gets grossly crowded on summer Saturdays, you can climb 20 other peaks with no one in sight. That’s the brochure answer, anyway, for why we stick close to home. And it’s not hyperbole. But the deeper answer is more personal. Neither Larissa nor I was born in Colorado. She came for college and

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stayed, and I arrived on a whim at age 23. We 07.15 THE ROAD met in Breckenridge one year later and have never really wanted to be elsewhere. When we reconnect, it’s always been important to do so in the state where “we” began. Southern Colorado is full of hideout towns, places like Marble, Ouray, Lake City and Creede. They are among the precious few that overdeliver on authenticity. One year, we linked Crestone (North Crestone Creek has ridiculous aspen hiking, just in case you find yourself up that access road) with a night at the Sand Dunes then a stunning drive around the southern tip of the Sangre de Cristo range up to Westcliffe, which, as an aside, would be a contender for best view in the state. Another year, we got a tip from a friend and went to great lengths to reach a particular section of the Continental Divide Trail near the Rio Grande Reservoir. It turned out to be one of the most breathtaking alpine trails we’d ever seen, much less ridden on bikes. So it goes in the south. No need for reservations at the end of September; fellow road trippers are scarce. We only bring the essentials on our trips. Like 20 pieces of firewood, ample Milky Ways, a propane grill, and a bunch of clothes that I never end up wearing because I always finish the trip in the same ones that I start it in.

f I’m being honest, one of my favorite parts of these road trips is the food and local beer—four days of hearty indulgence. One time I voted for us to pass through Pagosa Springs strictly (and secretively) so I could get the fried salmon and chips and an IPA at the Pagosa Brewing Company (try them before you say that’s silly). Even scarfing salami and mozzarella under a tree during a hailstorm on Venable Pass still tasted like heaven. And then there are the colors. We’ve found brilliant groves around Crested Butte that shine even in rainy weather. But the best we’ve seen surround the Carbonate Creek drainage and flanks of Mt. Daly in Marble. Circumnavigating that peak requires a sizable effort, but to behold such a rainbow of foliage in a harsh alpine environment mutes the suffering. Scenery aside, the true prize of our journeys is always time spent together— in the truck, on the trail, around the fire, just talking through our life. Road trips remind me how much presence matters. Not texts, not phone calls, not FaceTime. Actual face time. Holding hands while driving through the San Luis Valley in the late-afternoon light, peaks on our left, prairie on our right. Just us. —Devon O’Neil is a staff writer for ESPN.com and a frequent contributor to Skiing and Outside magazines. His work can be viewed at DevonONeil.com.

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COLORADO DEVOTION: DEVON AND LARISSA ON THEIR ANNUAL TRIP. J U LY- A U G U S T 2 01 5 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

ELWAYVILLE

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HIGH SUMMER WEDDINGS, WEIRDNESS AND WANDERING THE OPEN ROAD. by PETER KRAY I’m a sucker for mountain weddings. I even like those Hansel-and-Gretel, follow-the-bread-crumbsthrough-the-woods-style occasions where it seems you’ve got to drive up half a dozen dirt roads just to find the venue. There’s something about the cool alpine air, the stunning scenery, and the lasting image of the happy couple exchanging vows in a church not made by hands that hits me right in the middle of my snow-capped soul. Those weddings also provide the perfect excuse for a local road trip to Aspen, Telluride, Keystone. A reason to shine up the cowboy boots (my dress shoes), dig out the blazer (which I’ve never worn for work), and go make new friends while playing tourist at some perfect town you keep saying you’ve got to take the time to know better soon. On a side note, at the past two weddings I’ve been to, I’ve seen something that kind of blew me away. That something was a pair of pasty, slightly bald, lily-white groomsmen who were amazingly good at breakdancing. After being wallflowers the majority of each event, these otherwise unremarkable “wedding extras,” suddenly popped out of their seats when the DJ dropped the beat and spun headspins across the floor. Has anyone else ever seen this before? Is it some underground cult phenomena, like Ninja Warrior? llustration by KEVIN HOWDESHELl / kevincredible.com

ELEVATION O U T D O O R S / J U LY- A U G U S T 2 01 5

Imagine if people danced this passionately to jam bands. Ok. They do.

GROOVING Speaking of jam bands, I’ve burned up a lot of space smoking them in this column. I have targeted Phish especially (does anyone else think they sound like Berkeley music students tuning their instruments for three agonizing hours?). Then Widespread Panic (who seemed bored out of their minds the last time I saw them). And The String Cheese Incident, who recently reunited for an album and a tour, just in case you didn’t know they made recorded music or that they had broken up a few years ago. But in the interest of taking the giant lack of a rhythm stick out of my ass, I do want to go on record saying few things in this world feel better than dancing. Even, and maybe especially, dancing to a jam band. Other than disco or house music, there is no simpler, more direct to the swerve-center music to get your limbs a-flailing, preferably in a big, green, wide-open field. Like weddings, there are also few better—or weirder—ways to get your warm weather funk on than by camping out at one of the many musicfests Colorado hosts each summer. Not only are you guaranteed to dance your ass off, you can even bring the kids if you want (maybe even the dog and a couple of Frisbees), and drink pints of fresh craft beer without ever worrying about getting in the car. One of my favorite high school memories was rolling into Chief Hosa Campground in Genesee Mountain Park to start celebrating a three-day stand by The Grateful Dead at Red Rocks. Unable to sleep, my two friends and I stumbled upon a Hell’s Angels birthday party with a keg and a bluegrass band. We ended up meeeting five guys who called themselves “Guidos" (they all had featured photos of their weed

from High Times magazine), and enjoyed a homecooked vegetarian breakfast with two beautiful hippie girls named Hope and Patience in the back of their VW van. At least I think it all happened that way. Grateful Dead memories can get kind of blurry over the years.

WANDERING More than anything, summer is about seeing more of Colorado, and maybe even of the world. It’s about soaking in the sunrises and sunsets, climbing up peaks and wading down streams, taking pictures of the people you love in front of ghost town cabins, over shimmering lakes, and beneath the big “Welcome” signs at the border of every state you pass through. It’s about road trips and unfolding miles, picking up random radio stations as your mind sorts through every person, place and furry forever friend you have ever known. Then stopping to eat a pile of pancakes at some worn and shiny mom-and-pop diner, or to drink whiskey at a loud, dusty cowboy bar. It is about buying a new pair of hiking boots, or a fly rod, or a backpack from the local retailer of the next mountain town you pass through, then thinking about that day every time you head back outdoors. Most importantly, it is about being sweaty and sunburned and tired in the best way possible. Seared inside with a kind of lasting satisfaction which, yes, feels as comforting as a warm summer wind across your face. So when the fall comes, and that light turns all golden and gone, you can smile and ponder where all the time goes. Elevation Outdoors editor-at-large Peter Kray is the author of The God of Skiing. The book has been called “the greatest ski novel of all time.” You can buy it here: bit.ly/godofskiing

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