Elevation Outdoors Late Summer 2022 by Summit Publishing

URBAN HIKES | CACTI AND CONSERVATION | LESSER-KNOWN PEAKS LATE SUMMER 2022

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FIND IT OUT THERE

this summer

Joy in the Big Ditch

Climbing and packrafting in the Grand Canyon

New Voice

Greta Morgan finds healing in the desert

MAKING HISTORY

The first all-Black team summits Everest ROAD TRIP GEAR OURAY’S VIA FERRATA

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IN THIS ISSUE

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Recreation guides with regional maps, public lands, campgrounds, RV parks, trailheads, and more! Mountain Recreation guide for Colorado 14ers, ski areas, and selected trails Large-scale Landscape Maps™ with field-checked backroad detail

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I WALK THE LINE: The new Gold Mountain Via Ferrata in Ouray is more than just an exposed

thrill ride—it ascends through the area’s mining history, too. (see page 9).

DEPARTMENTS 7 EDITOR’S LETTER The road trip is the perfect time to find what you most need. 9 QUICK HITS Clip in to the new Gold Mountain Via Ferrata and take a tour through Ouray’s mining history; meet the original overlanders; restaurateur Pemba Sherpa gives back to Nepal; cacti can save the planet; events return to Neptune Mountaineering; urban hikes; and more. 14 FLASHPOINT Coloradan Philip Henderson led the first all-Black expedition to a successful summit of Mount Everest. The achievement is an important step for better representation in the outdoors—but there’s still a long climb ahead.

17 HOT SPOT Tired of the crowds on the popular peaks? We suggest you try these lesser-known gems for a bit more solitude. 19 STRAIGHT TALK Singer and songwriter Greta Morgan lost her voice as the pandemic hit, and she headed to the desert for healing. Her new instrumental album, Desert Lullabies, conveys what she found by listening to the wild. 29 THE ROAD Timmy O’Neill heads out on a big adventure climbing and packrafting in the remote corners of the Grand Canyon in an attempt to answer the question—why am I here? 34 ELWAYVILLE Peter Kray thinks the open road can give us just the kind of optimism we need in these times.

FEATURES 21 THE LONG STRANGE TRIP A cross-country journey to the capital of weirdness in the height of the pandemic turns sideways as the state of Oregon goes up in flames. Cue up the Grateful Dead. 26 ROAD TRIP GEAR It’s time to head out on that big road trip you have been yearning for all summer. Here’s the gear you’ll need no matter if you are in transit or settled into camp.

ON THE COVER Photographer, somatic therapist, soul mentor, and wilderness guide Sarah Jeffreys opens up to the road ahead in Utah’s red rock desert. By Sarah Jefferys dreamingonearth.com Instagram @sarah.jeffreys.395

WANT MORE? CATCH UP ON PAST ISSUES, YOUR FAVORITE BLOGGERS, AND DAILY ONLINE CONTENT AT ELEVATIONOUTDOORS.COM.

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History. Heritage. Craft CULTURE. The Great Outdoors. Sheridan is The Nature of the West.

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seasons in which to get WYO’d. If you’re a skijoring savant, you’ll want to check out the Winter Rodeo. July features the beloved WYO Rodeo. Spring and fall are the perfect time to chase cool mountain streams or epic backcountry lines, race the Bighorn Trail run, and more.

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CONTRIBUTORS | 07.22 What big trip do you have planned this summer?

E DI TOR-I N -CHI E F

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

doug@elevationoutdoors.com PRE SI DE N T / PUBLI SHE R

BLAKE DEMASO

blake@elevationoutdoors.com CRE AT I VE DI RE CTOR

MELISSA KENNELLY

m.kennelly@elevationoutdoors.com EDITORIAL + PRODUCTION MAN AG I N G E DI TOR

CAMERON MARTINDELL

cameron@elevationoutdoors.com DE PUT Y E DI TOR

TRACY ROSS

SE N I OR E DI TOR

CHRIS KASSAR COPY E DI TOR

BEVIN WALLACE E DI TOR-AT-LARG E

PETER KRAY

CON T RI BUT I N G E DI TORS

AARON BIBLE, ROB COPPOLILLO, LIAM DORAN, JAMES DZIEZYNSKI, HUDSON LINDENBERGER, SONYA LOONEY, CHRIS VAN LEUVEN CON T RI BUT I N G WRI T E RS

JEFF BLUMENFELD, WILL BRENDZA, COURTNEY HOLDEN, JAMES EDWARD MILLS, HELEN OLSSON, TIMMY O’NEILL ADVERTISING + BUSINESS ASSOCI AT E PUBLI SHE R

HANNAH COOPER

hannah@elevationoutdoors.com SE N I OR ACCOUN T E XE CUT I VE

MARTHA EVANS

martha@elevationoutdoors.com BUSI N E SS MAN AG E R

MELISSA GESSLER

melissa@elevationoutdoors.com CI RCULAT I ON I N QUI RI E S

circulation@elevationoutdoors.com DIGITAL MEDIA ON LI N E DI RE CTOR

CRAIG SNODGRASS DI G I TAL E DI TOR

RYAN MICHELLE SCAVO

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DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

I’m looking forward to driving up into Wyoming and finding relaxing spots to camp with the new 4Runner.

HANNAH COOPER

Our big trip is going to be staying close to home to enjoy time with family.

CAMERON MARTINDELL

We’re heading to the Arkansas Valley for a few fun days along the river and enjoying the mountain life.

TRACY ROSS

I traveled so much last summer that I’m loving splitting time between Boulder and Grand County.

JAMES EDWARD MILLS

I’m excited to head to the Alaskan Arctic this summer for a flyfishing trip along the Kobuk River on the Blackwaters Expedition.

TIMMY O’NEILL

The summer journey is procreation, meaning my wife is taking our developing child on their first road trip, aka gestation.

CHRIS KASSAR

Backpacking trips in the Tetons—one, we hope, will allow us to top out on the Grand (and maybe a few other peaks!).

WILL BRENDZA

I'm headed to the “Land of Ice and Fire” in October for some backpacking, road tripping, and volcanic hot springing.

HELEN OLSSON

Deer Isle in Maine for hiking in Acadia National Park and watching sunsets over the 1854 lighthouse on Pumpkin Island

PETER KRAY

SUMMIT

PUBLISHING

Fire restrictions are lifting with all the rain here in New Mexico, so I can finally get my big pup back in the mountains.

EDITOR'S LETTER | 07.22

NOWHERE AND EVERYWHERE AN ODE TO THE FEELING OF FOREVER BEING ON THE ROAD. by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

oad trips are quite simply when I feel most myself, most alive. Some of my earliest memories are of trips with my parents from our home on the Jersey Shore down into the deep South. There was new food, accents, crushing humidity, alligators, the newly-opened Disneyland. I lost a toy out an open window and our Plymouth Duster broke down in Lebanon, Tennessee. Recently, I watched grainy old movies from those trips in the early ’70s with my parents— the graininess made them seem so far lost in the past and, yet, I could still taste the salt air and the feeling of being very young and held by my mom. I only wanted more travel, more wandering, more discovery. I wanted that best part of a road trip—being nowhere and in motion, listening to music, feeling the rush of air though the windows. By the time I was 20, my friend Jonathan and I headed out on a classic coming-of-age trip across the country, from our college in Boston to the tattoo shops and glitz of West Hollywood, California. We had vague ideas of becoming rock stars (and Jonathan did in a way, working on soundtracks in the film industry and always creating his own music). We bought a car for $300 and a stereo for $350 and headed through the vastness of Wyoming listening to Mick Taylor, Jane’s Addiction, and the Replacements. I will never feel that unfettered again. In the words of Jack Kerouac, whom we, of course, saw as our patron saint, “I was halfway across America, at the dividing line between the East of my youth and the West of my future.” But Hollywood didn't call to me—the Rockies and vast deserts of the West

SEND MORE. SPEND LESS.

WAY OUT THERE: UTAH'S WESTERN DESERT IS NOT GOING TO BE GENTRIFIED SOON.

did. The destination didn’t resonate in that deep part of the heart that knows where it belongs, but wide-open spaces and wildness did. We stopped somewhere in the nothingness of NM64 and felt the heat and listened to silence. We slept in the car outside Moorcroft, Wyoming. I was home in this aimlessness on the road in the West and I have never looked back. My life has been simply waiting for the next road trip. I moved from Boston to Montana, savoring stops in the Badlands during an all-night lightning storm that lit our tent, and at the Mint Bar in Sheridan, Wyoming. I learned to love even the small road trips we take for granted living out here: jaunts from Bozeman, Montana, to the Beartooth Highway to ski the steeps when the road first opened in early summer or headed out to grad school in Seattle and driving past the city to park on the ferry and reach the edge of the continent at Neah Bay. I wanted to follow every highway, fill in every section of map I had not seen. My wife and I have passed this love of travel, of being in transit, to our kids, too. They pack into the back of the car for long drives with playlists and podcasts and no complaints at all. Last summer, as the pandemic continued to eat at our collective sense of community, and with my kids in their teens, we headed out from Boulder to San Francisco, blazing through the burning salt flats of western Utah and letting out primal screams on Route 50, the famed “Loneliest Highway in America,” because loneliness is, after all, a basic need in a world where we feel crushed by bad news and violence and too much technology. Just like I will never forget my earliest trips with my parents, this one will stick with me for a long time. And no matter how we grow or change or move forward, there is some place where we are always on the road together.

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QUICK HITS | 07.22

THE GOLD MOUNTAIN RANCH VIA FERRATA SERVES UP BIG THRILLS FOR ASCENDERS OF ALL ABILITY LEVELS.

IRON PATH

TRAVIS PERKINS

A N E W G U I D ED V I A FER R ATA I N O U R AY B L EN DS H I G H A DV EN T U R E W I T H M I N I N G H I S TO RY. Logan Tyler, owner of guide service Basecamp Ouray, sat down at Rick and Sandra Wilson’s kitchen table in 2020 to pitch the idea of stringing up a via ferrata on the Wilson's private 1,200-acre property, Gold Mountain Ranch. “They didn't know what a via ferrata was, but they were looking for ways to make the property more inclusive… so people could go up there and recreate,” Tyler says. They agreed to the idea on the spot. For the uninitiated, a via ferrata, Italian for “iron way,” is a climbing route made up of iron rungs and a cable that you clip onto via two short lanyards attached to your climbing harness. The Gold Mountain Via Ferrata, Ouray’s second course (there’s also a public via ferrata that winds through the Ice Park in the Uncompahgre Gorge), is unique in its connection to Ouray’s mining history. Tyler installed his via ferrata so that it literally passes through mining structures, including a 50-foot-long mining tunnel with ore cart tracks and a 100-year-old blacksmith shop. The guided-only route affords breathtaking views of the San Juans and the town of Ouray, some glimpsed from two cable suspension bridges. The optional “Hardman’s Route” ascends a 5.9-rated overhang and traverses a knob of rock with 800 feet of airspace beneath your feet. Via ferratas are becoming increasingly popular across the West—with notable new routes at Arapaho Basin and Jackson Hole resorts—but this iron way is one for the bucket list. —Helen Olsson

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OVERLANDING? IT’S NOTHING NEW D R I V I N G LO N G D I S TA N C E S A LO N G B A R ELY D I S C ER N I B L E ROA DS TO R E AC H R EM OT E A N D B E AU T I FU L D E S T I N AT I O N S I S A N AC T I V I T Y T H AT ’ S B EEN A RO U N D F O R D E C A D E S . I T ’ S J US T E A S I ER N OW. S O RT O F.

geographically, they were also doing so mechanically and conceptually. These were tinkerers—the original DYIers. Over time, certain modifications, inventions, tools, and gear proved to be best practices, and the DYIers found themselves starting businesses to sell their creations on a broader scale. This, in part, made the equipment for overlanding more accessible, and the activity started to draw a larger range of interest. Today, the innovation continues—sometimes in private garages to solve a very specific problem, though usually in the R&D departments of the brands that have made a name for themselves in this industry. And

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ONE OF A KIND: THE ONE REMAINING LAND ROVER FROM THE 1955 OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE FAR EASTERN EXPEDITION DRIVES IN KAZIRANGA NATIONAL PARK, INDIA. THE IMAGE IS FROM THE LAST OVERLAND EXPEDITION IN 2019—LOOK FOR A TV SERIES AND BOOK COMING OUT THIS FALL.

because of the self-sufficiency in the wild, overlanders need a lot of the same camping equipment as car campers. Because they are often sleeping right next to (or in, or on) their vehicles, there are some differences. Nevertheless, there is a strong merging, or overlap, occurring between traditional overlanding experiences and car camping setups. In many cases, car camping is used as a basecamp to launch into human-powered adventures. Hence, along with all the car

LOCAL HERO: PEMBA SHERPA T H I S SH ER PA R E S TAU R AT EU R B R I D G E S WO R L DS . A disastrous earthquake strikes Nepal in 2015 and Boulder restaurateur, philanthropist, and businessman Pemba Sherpa, 50, springs into action, helping to restore a hydropower station, erect a suspension bridge, and rebuild homes.

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In 1955, six students from Oxford and Cambridge universities in England embarked on a truly original and remarkable journey. They drove 16,000 kilometers (nearly 10,0000 miles) from London across Europe and southern Asia to reach Singapore. It took them more than six months, traveling over bouncy, disheveled roads, across roadless stretches of the Persian Desert, and through overgrown sections of the Southeast Asian jungles. They used two vehicles—1955 Series I Land Rover 86-inch station wagons loaned to them by Land Rover for the expedition. Why did this team of six 22- and 23-year-olds go for it? For the same reason most adventurous souls (especially of that age) do things: It had never been done before and they were told they couldn’t. For the most part, the six had to take care of any problems they encountered on their own. The same was true if they wanted to modify their vehicles somehow to make life on the road a little easier. This was a common marker of adventurers of all sorts at the time. Not only were they forging new paths

camping and overlanding gear, the vehicles also need to carry the skis, bikes, or boats to venture beyond the established basecamp at the end of the road. And sometimes that can be a very rough road requiring a high-clearance or 4x4 type of vehicle. This is how it was for the six members of the 1955 Oxford and Cambridge Far Eastern Expedition—while much of it was rough going while on the road, they also enjoyed themselves with sight-seeing and taking a few days off from driving along the way. These days, no matter if you identify as an overlander, car camper, or even van-lifer, your adventures are made possible in part by standing on the shoulders of those who dreamed, tinkered, invented, and built before you—a great legacy of adventure to continue. —Cameron Martindell

ROCK SOLID: COLORADO’S PEMBA SHERPA (TOP) STEPPED UP WHEN TRAGEDY STRUCK IN NEPAL.

TOP TO BOTTOM: COURTESY PEMBA SHERPA, COURTESY SOFIA DEWOLFE

C02 SOLUTION: CAN PRICKLY PEARS (BOTTOM) SAVE THE PLANET?

Today, Pemba’s Sherpa Chai (sherpachai.com) company and Sherpa’s Adventure restaurant employ 50 people from numerous countries, donate food to the North Boulder homeless shelter, support the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, and resettle newly arrived Nepalis. Born into poverty in the Himalayas, Pemba came to the U.S. in 1991. He soon started working as a restaurant dishwasher five days a week and as a stable hand shoveling horse manure the other two days—and he attended Emily Griffith Technical College in Denver. Later, he established his own climbing and trekking company, Sherpa Ascent International, and has been guiding clients from around the world for the past 20 years. “I see my life as a journey of experiences both good and bad, with lessons learned along the way,” he says in his book written with James McVey called Bridging Worlds (Sherpa Publications, 2019). “I believe the experiences of my childhood taught me survival skills that have served me well in life, instilling the values of hard work, resourcefulness, perseverance, and patience. I know the meaning of struggle and hardship,” Pemba says. His success in business allows him to continue assisting the Khumbu region on the Nepalese side of Mount Everest. A fixed-wing pilot, he wants to build a hospital in Nepal specializing in telemedicine, and qualify for his helicopter pilot’s license to conduct rescue work in the high-altitude world he calls home. “More people who are in a position to help like I am should lend their time, ideas, and financial support to improve the lives of others in need,” Pemba says. We say follow his lead. —Jeff Blumenfeld

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CACTI AND CONSERVATION T H I S O U T D O O R I N D US T RY C E O I S TAC K L I N G T H E P R I C K LY I S SU E O F C L I M AT E C H A N G E. While some associate prickly pear with a mean margarita, for Noah Swartz, founder of desertinspired footwear brand Erem (eremlife.com), the cactus is ripe with possibility for a sustainable future. Case in point: A single plant has the potential to sequester 400 pounds of carbon annually—and it can do so in arid environments on just 1–2 gallons of water per day (comparatively, fruit trees consume 25–45 gallons per day). “Trees are amazing at pulling out [the carbon that] currently sits in the atmosphere,” says the entrepreneur and environmentalist. “Except trees don’t grow on the third of the world that is desert.” That’s why Swartz, through

Erem, has committed to planting one million prickly pear in some of the driest areas of Colorado and other Mountain West states. Each year, these super sequesters will remove the equivalent of 40,000 cars’ worth of emissions from the road. But the eco-friendly efforts of this third-generation bootmaker–his father and grandfather both helmed Timberland–don’t stop there. The values are also infused into his “bio-circular” desert-focused hiking kicks, which are made with full-grain leather, cork insoles, and other natural fibers that return completely to nature. “We think it’s our obligation to positively impact people, place, and planet in everything that we do,” Swartz says. “It’s all aimed at this North Star of using private enterprise to try and positively impact the world.” I’ll drink to that. —Courtney Holden

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NEPTUNE EVENTS ARE BACK! T H E I CO N I C B O U L D ER SH O P H OS T S I N SP I R I N G S TO R I E S O F A DV EN T U R E E V ERY T H U R SDAY N I G H T.

CLIMBERS IN COMMUNITY: TOMMY CALDWELL REBOOTED NEPTUNE EVENTS IN MAY.

PHOTO COURTESY OF CHRISTIN WEAVER @WEAVER.PHOTOG

After a two-year pandemic-driven hiatus, Neptune Mountaineering (neptunemountaineering.com) Boulder’s locally founded outdoor gear shop has brought back its Thursday Night Events. These events have been a long-standing staple for Front Range outdoor enthusiasts since Gary Neptune himself kicked them off after being inspired by a similar event at a shop in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, in the 1970s. In May, Estes Park-based climbing legend Tommy Caldwell took the stage to reboot this popular local community event series by talking about the update to the TC Pro climbing shoe he created with La Sportiva.

He also showed and talked about his latest film to an intimate audience of just over 100. “One of the things we were most excited about when purchasing Neptune was the long-standing history of events. We have been looking forward to reviving these weekly gatherings and the sense of community that they build,” says owner Maile Sprung, who purchased Neptune in October of 2021. —C.M.

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FLASHPOINT | 07.22

COLORADAN PHILIP HENDERSON LED THE FIRST ALL-BL ACK EXPEDITION TO A SUCCESSFUL SUMMIT OF MOUNT EVEREST. IT’S AN IMPORTANT STEP FOR BETTER REPRESENTATION IN THE OUTDOORS, BUT THERE’S STILL A LONG CLIMB AHEAD. by JAMES EDWARD MILLS

n May 12, 2022, the world celebrated the successful ascent of the Full Circle Everest Expedition. For the first time, an all-Black team of climbers made it to the top of the highest peak in the world. Organized and led by veteran outdoor educator and Coloradan Philip Henderson, this group of eight

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HIMALAYAN HIGHWAY: SUPPLIES HEAD UP THE KHUMBU VALLEY TO EVEREST BASECAMP.

have been denied or overlooked in the opportunity to climb on the highest peaks of our planet,” says renowned Everest climber Conrad Anker. “Phillip Henderson and the team at Full Circle Everest have taken this historical context and moved it forward to where we are today. The first all-Black expedition summiting Everest will have repercussions that reverberate throughout the communities of outdoors people and those that look to see better representation in the mountains.”

A Bold Statement

Though an all-Black climbing expedition might sound like the exact opposite of diversity and inclusion, the Full Circle Everest team aimed to make a bold statement to demonstrate the agency of people of color to achieve this lofty goal through their best efforts as a community. “I believe that this group will actually be the catalyst to changing the literal face of the outdoors,” says team member Thomas Moore who lives in

JAMES EDWARD MILLS

THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN

men and two women, each of African Nima Sherpa, Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa, descent, including a native of Kenya, Phurtemba Sherpa, Dawa Chhiri achieved a goal that has been in the Sherpa, Sonam Gaylje Sherpa, Nima making for more than 60 years. Of Nuru Sherpa, Chopal Sherpa, Chawang the 10 climbers on the team, seven Lhendup Sherpa, Tasha Gyalje Sherpa stood on the summit and in doing so and Amrit Ale. Still images and video walked into the pages were captured by of history. Pemba Sherpa and “While a few Nawang Tenji Sherpa. “ I B E L I E V E T H AT T H I S members, including “Really the summit G R O U P W I L L A C T U A L LY myself, did not could happen for B E T H E C A T A LY S T summit, all members anyone, but to be in TO CHANGING THE of the climb and a position to be the LITERAL FACE OF THE Sherpa teams have first African American OUTDOORS” safely returned to man on the summit, —T H O M A S M O O R E Base Camp, where we that’s honorable. will celebrate this historic moment!” But it’s also a lot of weight to carry,” Henderson announced to the world in Henderson says. “When it comes to a press release. diversity, we have people on one side The members of the Full Circle of the fence and those on the other team who successfully summited side and there will be haters. But you Mount Everest include Manoah Ainuu, know—it’s time.” Eddie Taylor, Rosemary Saal, Demond It’s important that we acknowledge “Dom” Mullins, Thomas Moore, James the names and various roles of “KG” Kagami, and Evan Green. The the many people involved in this remaining members of the group who monumental endeavor. Too often when made it to Camp 3 with Henderson it comes to exploration and adventure, are Fred Campbell and Abby Dione. we allow history to neglect the Logistical support at Base Camp was contributions of those who played a provided by Adina Scott. And local critical part in the successful outcome guides whose assistance made this of groundbreaking events such as this. expedition possible included Pasang “For far too long, people of color

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PEMBA SHERPA, JAMES EDWARD MILLS (X4)

Denver. “I think it will be what brings more and more Black and brown folks into the outdoors. Just being able to see it, that's a big deal.” Prior to this expedition, of the 10,654 known climbers who have summited Everest, only six were Black. Sibusiso Vilane was the first on May 26, 2003. Sophia Danenberg of Seattle, Washington, reached the summit of Everest on May 19, 2006, as the first Black woman and the only Black American. Then came Nadir Dendoune of France in 2008, Rohan Freeman of Jamaica in 2009, Saray N'kusi Khumalo of South Africa in 2019, and Aretha Duarte of Brazil 2021. With the addition of the Full Circle Everest Expedition, the number of Black climbers to ascend to the summit has now more than doubled. “If you look at the socioeconomics and where we were in terms of the Civil Rights movement, we were not in a place where we could effectively spend time in the outdoors or in the wilderness,” says team member Eddie Taylor, who teaches chemistry and coaches track at Lafayette, Colorado’s Centaurus High School. “There wasn't that heritage from folks like us doing that before. That wasn’t something that people even thought was feasible. But we’re changing that.” Throughout the social media landscape, followers of the Full Circle Everest Expedition have lauded the team with praise and adulation for its accomplishment. Black and brown folks especially have shared their excitement for having this high-profile event organized by Henderson to represent the positive lived experiences of people from their community in the outdoors. But we cannot presume that this single expedition, though successful, means that the goal of diversity, equity, and inclusion in outdoor recreation has at last been achieved. Like mountaineering itself, reaching the summit is only half of the journey. Just as the members of the Full Circle team had to negotiate a challenging, more dangerous descent back to base camp, the work of DEI continues as we create space for a newly inspired and motivated generation of outdoor enthusiasts to follow their example. “When Jackie Robinson started playing baseball, do you think people were saying the same thing: Why does it matter? Sure, they were, because back then this was an area that people like us had not broken into yet,” Henderson says. “He become that person that people look up to and look where they are today. That’s why this matters now.”

Raising the Profile

The outdoor industry is rapidly beginning to recognize many things that must be done to create a recreational environment that better represents a population of U.S. citizens that is growing more ethnically diverse year after year. The Black Lives Matter

Movement and the racial justice protests through the summer of 2020 following the deaths of George Floyd, Amaud Arbury, Breonna Taylor, and others have prompted many organizations to make changes in the way they do business. Lauren Guthrie leads inclusion, diversity, equity, and action for the VF Corporation. As a novice hiker she walked with the Full Circle team to Everest Base Camp to experience this expedition firsthand. “I think for us at VF, we want to play a really key role in making the outdoors more accessible for everyone. And part of that is looking at the baggage of this industry and supporting those whose voices haven't historically been elevated. And I think this is an incredible platform to do that,” Guthrie says. “This time has been rich with conversations with each one of the members of this team around what the future holds and how we can leverage this moment of inspiration and aspiration, but also continue to look for ways to make this more accessible.” But even an organization as big as VF can’t do this work alone. Guthrie says that in order to support diversity initiatives on an industry-wide scale, coalitions of support must be created to find those opportunities where otherwise-competing groups can work together to amplify the work of one another in service of something greater

than just selling products. The Full Circle Everest expedition is one such initiative that aims to not only improve representation among people of color in the outdoor industry but also create the means through which they might elevate their careers in the future. “We have several professional athletes on the team, and I think that this is going to raise their profile in a big way,” says Everest summiteer Demon “Dom” Mullins. “We have other professionals on the team who are also connected to the outdoor industry in some way, whether they are mountain guides, instructors of some type, working for the National Outdoor Leadership School, or even a gym owner. This is going to raise their profile and allow people to see Black people represented in the sport.” After almost eight weeks on the Full Circle Everest Expedition, all the team members are eager to get back to their lives with a renewed sense of purpose. Eddie Taylor, a high school science teacher and track coach, looks forward to seeing his students graduate. Rosemary Saal, a mountain guide and outdoor educator, says she plans to spend some time on a warm beach somewhere, maybe Mexico. And Thomas Moore, a Denver-based entrepreneur, plans to continue training toward his next big climbing goal. He aims to be the first Black American climber to reach the Seven Summits.

SUCCESS: FULL CIRCLE INCLUDED THE SUMMIT AS WELL AS FAMILY, FRIENDS, AND TEA.

“I am still on track. If Carstensz (Indonesia’s Punack Jaya) opens up, I’ll go for it in October,” Moore says. “I’m not sure what the Russian war does for visas over the next year for Elbrus, but I have five of the seven and I want the last two.” As for Philip Henderson, he’ll go back to work at Osprey Packs in Cortez, Colorado, where he hopes to settle in for some well-deserved down time. “It’s hard not to be excited when you make history,” Henderson says. “But for now I’m just going back home to rest, relax, and be with my family.” James Edward Mills is a freelance journalist and National Geographic Explorer who specializes in telling stories about outdoor recreation, environmental conservation, acts of charitable giving, and practices of sustainable living. He has worked in the outdoor industry since 1989 as a guide, outfitter, independent sales representative, writer, and photographer. He is the author of the book The Adventure Gap: Changing the Face of the Outdoors and the cowriter/co-producer of the documentary film An American Ascent.

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HOT SPOT | 07.22

ALONE AT THE TOP

TIRED OF THE CROWDS ON THE POPUL AR PEAKS? WE SUGGEST YOU TRY THESE LESSERKNOWN GEMS FOR A BIT MORE SOLITUDE AND SPACE. by CHRIS KASSAR

f you’ve spent any time hiking in our sweet state lately, you know that people are getting outside in greater numbers than ever before. We like that. Enthusiasm for the outdoors is a wonderful thing because it means folks are taking care of themselves and (we hope) finding a newfound respect for conservation. However, more crowds cause more impact on the lands, and many mountaintops now feel like more of a social event than a chance to commune with nature. So, we present these lesser known peaks as options for evading the party crowds—just be respectful of other hikers looking for solitude. Spoiler alert: There are no Fourteeners on this list!

JAMES DZIEZYNSKI

West Spanish Peak (13,626 feet)

THE ADVENTURE: Arguably the most distinctive landmarks of southeastern Colorado, East and West Spanish Peaks rise more than 6,000 feet above I-25. In the 19th century, these

peaks, unobstructed by foothills, acted as markers for pioneers traveling the Santa Fe Trail. Today, they offer a respite for hikers seeking a path less-traveled. Best accessed via the Cordova Pass Trailhead (11,248 feet), this eight-mile round trip adventure follows a pleasant forested path to tree line, where the trail becomes less distinct as it climbs over talus and loose scree along the peak’s southeast ridge. Reaching the top after tackling the last mile, which is quite steep and rocky, your efforts are rewarded with 360-degree views that encompass the Culebra Range, East Spanish Peak, and the Great Plains. No technical climbing or mountaineering is required in midsummer or fall, but pay attention for cairns and other signs above treeline where the trail changes to Class 2 and becomes less defined. GETTING THERE: From Denver, drive south on I-25 to Walsenburg. Exit here and follow U.S. 160 west for about 13 miles, then veer left to head west on CO12 to the town of Cuchara. Continue another six miles on CO12 to Cuchara Pass. Turn left (east) here to follow CR46, a decent dirt road, an additional 6 miles to Cordova Pass, where there is limited pay-for parking and a small campground.

Almagre Mountain (12,367 feet):

THE ADVENTURE: The second highest peak in a skyline doesn’t usually get a lot of attention, but that’s a huge reason you’ll love Almagre Mountain, the only peak other than Pikes that rises above treeline when viewed from Colorado Springs. Even though there’s a rough road that intrepid four wheelers can drive to get somewhat

close to the summit, Almagre gets very little use by Colorado standards. This 12-mile round trip adventure with 3,000 feet of elevation gain (from the two-wheel-drive trailhead) combines multiple trails that ascend steeply up a peaceful canyon following North Cheyenne Creek. Breaking free from tree line, the trail becomes faint, even disappearing at times, as it climbs out of the canyon, switchbacks over alpine terrain, and reaches Stratton Reservoir. Climb over the saddle and onto the summit where great views of Pikes Peak, Colorado Springs, Mt Rosa, Cameron Cone, Cheyenne Mountain, and many others await. Wander around this broad summit to discover all the varied views.

GETTING THERE: From Colorado Springs, head south toward Pikes Peak Ave. Follow South Nevada Ave. to West Cheyenne Mountain Blvd. Take Old Stage Road and Upper Beaver Creek Road to the intersection of Gold Camp Road and Forest Road 379. There is a parking area just past FR 379 on the left. This is the two-wheel-drive trailhead. Four-wheel-drive parking is farther up the very rough road.

Vermillion Peak (13.894 feet)

THE ADVENTURE: Taking on this peak, the tallest in a series of rugged thirteeners surrounding this stunning piece of the San Juans, offers countless options for backpacking and peak bagging. Climbing Vermillion– named for the reddish-orange glow when the sun hits it right— requires a a 10.2-mile round trip with 4,100 feet of elevation that includes a Class 2+ section near the top and a scenic climb

SOLITARY SENTINAL: AT 13,626 FEET, REGAL WEST SPANISH PEAK LORDS OVER I-25.

through Ice Lakes Basin, a popular and worthy destination in and of itself full of stunning alpine lakes, wildflowers, and views. Leaving behind most other hikers, you’ll rise well above Ice Lakes to reach Fuller Lake at 12,600 feet (a good camping option if you’re spending the night) where the ascent of Vermilion begins in earnest. After reaching the 13,500-foot VermillionFuller saddle, the trail undulates along the ridge to reach the notch above the Vermillion Dollar Couloir. The push to the summit includes climbing a short gully with loose rock, scrambling up loose talus to the narrow, exposed summit, and a walk across a short catwalk to the summit (Class 2+). Breathtaking views, including those of the Wilson Group and all the Ice Lakes Basin, are your reward. The southeast ridge route is the standard and easiest route on Vermilion Peak. Many people choose to backpack into Ice Lakes Basin, this way being able to incorporate climbs of Golden Horn, Pilot Knob, US Grant Peak, or Fuller Peak–the other high thirteeners in the area.

GETTING THERE: Take US Highway 550 north towards Red Mountain Pass from the US 550-110 intersection. After two miles, take the turnoff for the South Mineral Campground on the left side of the road. Follow this good-quality dirt road for 3.5 miles until you arrive at the South Mineral Campground, where you can park on the right side of the road. The approach hike can be shortened by taking a right off of the South Mineral Road towards Clear Lake and park at the first switchback (thre isroom for only a few cars).

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STRAIGHT TALK | 07.22

NEW VOICE SINGER AND SONGWRITER GRETA MORGAN LOST HER VOICE AS THE PANDEMIC HIT, SO SHE HEADED TO THE DESERT FOR HEALING. HER NEW INSTRUMENTAL ALBUM, DESERT LULLABIES, CONVEYS WHAT SHE FOUND BY LISTENING TO THE WILD. by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

reta Morgan has been a professional musician since she was 16 years old. Rising to critical acclaim as Springtime Carnivore, she crafts songs filled with vulnerability and complexity. In March 2020 when the pandemic hit, Morgan had been performing as part of Vampire Weekend but, as the world shut down, she came down with what she thinks was COVID-19. Then she found out her LA home was filled with a dangerous mold. Then she lost her voice. Misdiagnosed wth acid reflux and hoping to bounce back, she headed out to a place that had always called to her, Zion National Park, to heal. But her voice had dramatically changed. She soon learned she had spasmodic dysphonia, which she describes as “essentially a glitch in the communication between the brain and the voice. It’s like having a tremor right in your voice box.” Her solace was the desert. Working with somatic therapist Saarah Jeffreys and out on her own, she began to listen deeper to the streams, the birds, the silence, the stars. From those observations and emotions, she made Desert Lullabies, an instrumental album Morgan released in April. In the midst of working on a memoir, she took the time to talk to us about rediscovering herself and a deeper understanding of being human.

SARAH JEFFREYS (X2)

What called you to head to the desert to heal?

I had always dreamt of going back to Zion Canyon. I stopped there for a day on a tour in 2017, and it just stayed in my heart. I thought, I could live anywhere as long as I’m safely isolating. Why don’t I just go live in a hotel in Zion for a month and get my voice back. Immediately, I felt the healing powers of the desert. It made so much sense to me why there has always been this mythological draw to the desert for healing.

When you were facing this loss, what did you find out in the desert that helped you?

I would go into Zion Canyon every night—amazingly, no one, except Sarah, was there after eight o'clock– and I would just spend time with the animals, with the river, and listen. My whole life had been full of sound, of man-made sound, leading up to this moment: A record always playing. I played drums. I played guitar. I played piano. I sang. Now, my listening became so powerful that when I was watching the Perseid meteor shower, I thought I could hear the stars. I would go to the wilderness areas outside the park and just wander alone for a day or two. Just being among all of the creatures of the natural world, I would see how purely they are authentically themselves. There’s no pretending to be anything else. It mirrored back to me all the ways that I had been pretending or that I had wanted to present some version of who I was.

How did that experience transfer into the ability to make the music on Desert Lullabies?

I would just ask myself questions: If that meteor shower was a song, what would it sound like? Or if the feeling of the silkiness of the desert air was a musical tone, what tone would it be? I would come back at night and play these little ideas and archive these sounds. I was just trying to translate my experience of being in these beautiful places directly into music. And I was also trying to make music that serves a purpose for me, music that I could use to calm myself down. I listened to the songs so often while I was making them, adding layers and slowing them down and speeding them up. They really became like a healing medicine for me, which is the only reason why I ultimately decided to share them. I thought, if they feel healing for me, maybe someone else could benefit from them as well. So Desert Lullabies sits in a very special place in my heart because it’s the first time I’ve really felt as if I’ve needed to make music for my emotional survival.

What gives you hope?

I think often it requires more darkness to be able to earn more light. I think sometimes there are these societal backslides that have to happen in

DEEP CONNECTION: MORGAN LEARNED HOW TO LISTEN DEEPLY IN THE DESERT AND HER ARTISTIC RANGE IS EXPANDING.

order to wake everyone up. And it’s a constant pendulum swing. We just have to be part of the momentum that will swing things back to the side of good. That’s the hope. Download Desert Lullabies on Bandcamp at gretamorgan.bandcamp .com, support her and follow her process of making new music on Patreon at patreon.com/gretamorgan, and follow her on Instagram @gretamorgan.

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The Long, Strange Trip A CROSS-COUNTRY JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL OF WEIRDNESS IN THE HEIGHT OF THE PANDEMIC TURNS SIDEWAYS AS THE STATE GOES UP IN FL AMES.

WILL BRENDZA

by WILL BRENDZA

If I didn’t know any better, from where I stood looking west, under the stark orange sky and among those basalt rock gardens, I could have convinced myself I was on an alien planet. Mars, Venus, Tatooine, or maybe Dune’s Arrakis. Visibility was limited to 100 yards or less. Beyond that, the corroded haze swallowed and obscured the view. No birds flew overhead. No one else stood on the deserted shore with me and my four road-tripping friends. The only noise was the rhythmic rustling crash of the Pacific waves. We stood quietly, taking in our final destination: the Oregon coast. A place that did not look like its postcards on that weird September day. “How close are these fires?” I wondered aloud, watching ash rain down around us. “Either very close or very big,” Gilbert answered. “Probably both.” I glanced at my friends staring thoughtfully out at the un-Earthly scene, all wearing our COVID-19 masks—though not for any COVID-19 reason this time. Today, they were strictly air filters for our lungs. Oregon Public Broadcasting would later inform us that, on that particular morning, the state’s air quality had briefly flared to “worst in the world,”

surpassing China, India, Bangladesh, driving west along Highway 26, things and all the others for the title. It was began to change. A huge plume ironic. We’d just arrived bright eyed and of smoke rose to the south like a bushy tailed from Colorado, fleeing a black rainbow; expanding, widening, heinous wildfire season there, ready stretching north from horizon to for beach camping, mountain biking, horizon. I poked my head out of the clear skies, warm weather, and woodsy window as we passed beneath that adventures. And, almost as if we'd ominous arch in the sky, watching the brought them with us, very serious fires sun disappear behind it. The air grew had sparked to life across Oregon. Fires colder, and I pulled my sunglasses off, that were getting worse and wilder. staring up, my attention fully gripped by Entire towns had been scorched from the awesome spectacle. the map. Homes, lives, and livelihoods HONK! HONK! had been lost. And HOOONK! A HUGE PLUME OF we’d woken up in SMOKE ROSE TO Cape Lookout State “Will!” Rachel T HE SOUTH LIKE A Park on a different screamed. BLACK RAINBOW; planet than the one I swerved out of E X PA NDING, we’d gone to bed on. the oncoming lane, WIDENING, “So much for our narrowly missing a S TRETCHING beach day,” said Arlo. semi, tires screeching NORTH FROM “What if we can’t as I recentered, HORIZON TO get out of Oregon?” regripping the wheel, HORIZON. Lauren’s question redirecting my hung upon the smoky attention away from the air between us. We exchanged uneasy surreal scene. It was hard to ignore as side glances. Finally, Gilbert shrugged. we passed through it: Huge swaths had “You’d be stuck here with me,” he been charred black for miles; houses replied simply, leaving unsaid: For had been reduced to chimney stacks better or for worse. and rubble foundations; forests had Up to this point, our adventure had been turned to ashen deserts. gone off without a hitch. We’d fled Colorado's COVID-19 lockdowns, aybe I was innocent or maybe campfire bans, and thick, smoky air on a times are changing, but mountain biking road trip headed west, wildfire destruction seemed to meet our old friend Gilbert in his new so novel to me then. Not so much home: Portland, Oregon. Along the way, anymore. That level of widespread we’d ripped up Park City’s mountain destruction has utterly devastated our bike trails, shredded in Boise, and own home state in the seasons since. stopped at Mount Hood to do lift-laps That same summer was the biggest on the volcano’s infamous freeride park. wildfire season on record in Colorado, As we departed Hood, however, with over 1,000 wildland fires burning

AT LEAST IT'S STILL WEIRD: THE PANDEMIC HAS BEEN TOUGH ON THE ROSE CITY.

over 665,400 acres. The next summer, over 337 wildland fires burned another 32,860 acres. And, while the totals aren’t in for 2022 yet, the year kicked off with the Marshall Fire, the most destructive in Colorado’s history. Wildfire season is growing. According to the Colorado Division of Fire Prevention and Control, it lasts 78 days longer than it did in the 1970s—a tangible consequence of a changing climate. I can’t tell you how many days longer the wildfire season lasts in Oregon than it used to, but I can tell you from experience that September is a tricky time to plan a cross-country road trip there. It’s the worst month for wildfires in North America, and perhaps that should have been obvious—but it didn’t even cross our minds. And so, as we naively approached Portland, we found ourselves driving straight into the peak of that state’s worst-ever September wildfire season. As suddenly as the wasteland had begun, we emerged beyond the edge of the wildfire’s path, re-entering the Oregon we’d all imagined. The sun rematerialized from behind the huge ribbon of smoke, and we nervously laughed our own apprehension away, replacing it instead with talk of the sights and scenes to come: Portland, Gilbert, the Oregon Coast, good food, great company, and bright, clear skies ahead. But we had crossed into new territory beyond that black arch in the sky. And the going was about to get weirder.

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THE NATION ERUPTED IN OUTRAGE OVER RACIAL AND ECONOMIC INJUSTICE DURING THE PANDEMIC, OREGON ENDURED THE MOST DESTRUCTIVE WILDFIRE SEASON IN THE STATE’S HISTORY. THE FIRES BURNED OVER 1 MILLION ACRES AND CREATED THE WORST AIR QUALITY IN THE WORLD.

We arrived hungry in the City of Roses. And Gilbert was eager and excited to show us all his favorite restaurants and bars—the Spots, as it were. But Portland was not at its most hospitable. COVID restrictions remained tight, and the restaurants Gilbert had fallen in love with prepandemic had diminished their menus; their only seating was out in the smog and ash; and they all were using disposable plates and plastic silverware. “This is killing me,” Rachel told me one morning, as we all ate breakfast out of styrofoam to-go containers. “No,” I told her. “It’s killing the planet.” But I felt her pain. In the shadow of those great fires, it was hard to ignore the implications of our waste. Simultaneously, the November 2020 presidential election was just a month away. Portland’s daily Black Lives Matter protests were turning into Antifa riots by night; Federal agents had been deployed to violently enforce peace; the city’s center was boarded up, doors

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were locked, security gates pulled shut, and graffiti was everywhere: BLM Racists go home Vote 4 nobody Eat the rich This city, known for its weirdness, was feeling weirder than normal, Gilbert told us as we stood in Chapman Square amid the dystopian cityscape. And worse, the restaurants were disappointing him and, as a result. he felt like he was disappointing us. “Nevermind all this bullshit,” Arlo offered. “Let’s bail on the city and head for the coast.” We all agreed. It was the right thing to do. “Besides,” Gilbert added, “We may escape this haze closer to the ocean.”

o we packed up and hit the road. And actually, we did escape: it was clear and colorful and bright in Cape Lookout State Park an hour and a half away. The sun was out, people were playing on the beach, the air was clean, and the tide was high. But it was only a brief reprieve. Eventually the smoke caught up with us, drifting up from the south, over the beach, obscuring all natural splendor in its bleak brownish smog. It was hard not to laugh at our luck. And, despite the situation, we returned to our beach-side campsite

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: ARLO CARPENTER (X2), WILL BRENDZA, RACHEL LAUX

ROAD TRIPPING THE APOCALYPSE: WHILE

in high spirits, ready for an early dinner. Rachel shucked fresh Oregon oysters, we all opened beers, and I passed around some psychedelic mushrooms for dessert. The sun set somewhere, and the ugly haze faded into a blackness so pitch, so complete and all-consuming, it made the dark ocean glow with neon waves of bioluminescent plankton. We played in the surf, our footsteps lighting up like fairy tracks as we sprinited madly across the low-tide wet sand, giggling, and kicking shallow water up in splashes that flashed like LED screens. The ocean replaced the absent stars and, like untethered astronauts, we lost ourselves in that strange sparkling galaxy beneath the sky. When we awoke the next morning, rubbing our itching eyes, coughing and wheezing, we were on another planet— on a Martian world with a tangerine sky. We walked the shore and explored the rocks, trying to make something of our beach day. But the smoke was too much to bear. Everyone was ready to move on. “But where do we go?” It was a good question. The Forest service was closing campsites and canceling reservations. The national parks, state parks, and Bureau of Land Management were shutting down. Businesses were closing, and evacuation orders were being issued. We’d been

STRANGE NEW WORLDS: EVEN THE BEACH AT CAPE LOOKOUT STATE PARK WAS AFFECTED BY THE FIRES AND FELT LIKE THE SURFACE OF ANOTHER PLANET.

foiled at every turn—by fires, disease, and civil discontent. Our options had been suffocated. Or plans derailed. And yet, the journey hadn’t been objectively bad. Weird, certainly. Memorable, for sure. A unique plunge into the main vein of the zeitgeist of our time. Where now? The answer was obvious. We made a beeline for the nearest open brewery. Goodbye beers were in order before we packed up for good and parted ways again. True to the vibe, it was a bizarre farewell in Portland. We hugged Gilbert one by one, mumbling, “we’ll miss yous” and “talk soons,” and then watched our friend grow small in our rear-view mirrors, waving to us as we pulled away. As wildfires quite literally encroached from all directions. A song popped into my head as we drove off, and I pulled it up on my phone, cranking the volume. The Grateful Dead had never been my favorite band, but suddenly it occurred to me what a perfect song they’d written for just that moment. “What a long strange trip it’s been,” Jerry sang as we put Oregon and its fires behind us, without looking back. L AT E S U M M E R 2 0 2 2 / E L E VAT I O N O U T D O O R S . C O M

AN OASIS IN COLORADO SPRINGS

or all you conscious travelers out there looking for a different way to adventure, meet Soul Community Planet (SCP) Hotels. As a brand founded on the core values of wellness, kindness, and sustainability, its focus is on local, hand-crafted, and environmentally-friendly details that make for a cozy stay. SCP’s holistic approach toward health and hospitality, combined with the power of social good, means you can rest easy knowing you’re taking care of yourself and the planet when you stay at one of its hotels. By simply booking a room, you provide mental health resources to adolescents through WE Well-being, light the home of a family in need through

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When it comes to choosing your travel accommodations, you want a place that says, “welcome home,” as soon as you cross the threshold. At SCP Colorado Springs Hotel, each of the 174 rooms features a minimalist design and includes eco-friendly bath products, walk-in showers, locally-crafted furniture, and plant-based foam mattresses. You might even treat yourself to a premium room with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. Pet-friendly rooms mean your four-legged friend is invited too!

Fresh Eats

At Provisions Market, conveniently located in the hotel lobby, you will find fresh and healthy locally-sourced food and drinks to keep you fueled throughout the day. Get your morning started with a breakfast burrito, sip on a refreshing can of craft beer or kombucha, and finish off a wild mushroom pizza—all available from the same convenient location right beside the hotel lobby. Plus, with grab-and-go options available 24 hours a day, it’s easy to snag a snack for your early-morning hike or indulge in a late-night treat. You can find even more delicious dining options and local shops just 10 minutes away in the vibrant community of Downtown Colorado Springs.

Grand Adventure

SCP Colorado Springs Hotel is the perfect base camp for visitors to the Pikes Peak region. Located

just 12 miles west of town, it provides a variety of ways to experience the iconic mountaintop. Whether you take the train for scenic views at the summit, hike one of the countless trails in the national forest, or find a quiet park to explore, you’ll never run out of room to roam in the wideopen spaces of Colorado. Back at the hotel, take advantage of the communal workspaces at SCP Commons and the next-level fitness amenities at SCP Fit, featuring top-of-the-line equipment like Peloton Bikes, TRX, weights, a yoga studio, and on-demand fitness classes. After a long day outside, kick back and relax by the pool as you watch the sun go down on a day well spent. This is your chance to recharge your body, mind, and soul all while knowing that Every Stay Does Good at SCP Hotels. Plan your visit at SCPHotel. com as you reconnect to nature and yourself in Colorado Springs.

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THE GOODS | 07.22

GEAR TO GO IT’S TIME TO HEAD OUT ON THAT BIG ROAD TRIP YOU HAVE BEEN YEARNING FOR ALL SUMMER. HERE’S THE GEAR YOU’LL NEED NO MATTER IF YOU ARE IN TRANSIT OR SETTLED INTO CAMP. 1

by DOUG SCHNITZSPAHN

1. Cusa Coffee Variety Pack

Gas station coffee stinks. Cusa Coffee does not. These quality instant coffee packets can get you through a long drive far better than roadside sludge. Simply mix one small packet with 8 to 10 ounces of hot or cold (mmm cold brew!) water, and you are driving in your own mobile café. Bonus: They are perfect for camp and backpacking, too. $25; drinkcusa.com

2. CamelBak ChillBak Pack 30 Soft Cooler and Hydration Center Far easier to pack away and transport than a big hard cooler, this handy backpack cooler can hold two six packs of your favorite beverages or a full picnic for you and your crew. Best of all, it’s also a hydration pack, able to hold 6 liters of water distributed through an external spigot. $300; camelbak.com

5. Salewa Wildfire 2

Choose that one shoe wisely for your big road trip; It needs to be able to take on a wide rage of conditions but still feel comfy in car or café. These babies answer the call with the DNA to scramble peaks thanks to a grippy sole and secure climbing lacing as well as the looks to just chill at a roadside dive. $140; salewa.com

bag intended for backpacking when you can haul something more comfy in your vehicle. Consider the Jazz, which feels more like a bed than a bag, complete with a removable sheet and a heavenly quilted layer on top. It’s easy to regulate for the temperature outside and to snuggle in with someone special via mating zipper attachments or a full double model. $300 single, $3435 double; nemoequipment.com

More compact than other portable pizza ovens, this cooker runs on both propane and wood for those pie connoisseurs who love the taste of smoke. The oven comes complete with a wood-burning assembly and a stone, but the best thing about it for the car-camping foodies among us is that the circular design allows for perfect cooking—keep a careful eye on your pizza and rotate it via a built-in turning device. $625; solostove.com

One simple road trip joy is the ability to find that perfect dispersed camp spot off the grid and plop down in front of the fire, read a good book, gab, or just be at ease in the wild. Dometic’s comfy camp seat is soft on your tush and damn good looking. Plus, it folds down compactly and easily to stash in the back of even the smallest of cars. $150; dometic.com

4. Leki CrossTrail FX Superlite

Essential gear that’s simple to stash in your vehicle, these poles combine the durability of a hiking stick with the light performance of trail running gear. That makes them ideal for any condition you may encounter as you explore out there on the roads and trails.. They weigh in at just 203 grams per pole and adjust between 110 and 130 cm. Best of all, the hand grip system gives plenty to keep you attached without too much bulk. $250; leki.com

The biggest version of Big Agnes's plush car camping pad makes for a fine mattress for two in your tent (or one who rolls around a lot in their sleep)—but we love it as a crash-outin-the-open option. Pull over, inflate, and splay out under the stars. $200; bigagnes.com

6. Nemo Jazz Synthetic Sleeping Bag 9. Solo Stove Pi Pizza Oven Why mummy yourself up in a sleeping

3. Titus Adventure Co. 7. Dometic GO Compact Camp Chair Ready for that big road trip but don’t have the big rig of your dreams? Don’t throw down thousands of dollars to buy something new. Rent one. Based in Denver, Titus has a fleet of vehicles ranging from a Tofino camper van with a pop top that sleeps four to an offroad-ready LandCruiser with a topper tent. Titus even provides you with all the camp gear you need—from bedding and stove to a gas-powered fire pit and chairs. Not sure where to go? Titus will create an itinerary for you and suggest spots to camp with sweeping views and no crowds. tacrentals.com

8. Big Agnes Hinman 50"x79"x2.5"

6 5

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10. Bliss Hammocks Fabric Double Hammock & Stand

Not all campgrounds allow you to string that faithful hammock up between their oft-abused trees. The 9-foot stand in this double hammock means you can laze away the day anywhere you want without harming the forest. Bonus: It works just as well on your deck at home. $200; snowjoe.com

11. Wagan Tech Lithium Cube 1200

Sure, you want to get away from work and all those devices, but often it’s not possible to go on a road trip without powering up, checking in, and perhaps slipping in a Zoom meeting in the wild. Or maybe those power-needy devices are essential parts of your camp setup. Either way, this sturdy, powerful charging unit with a 1000W inverter and 1166Wh lithium-ion battery can run your laptop or a small fridge, and you can charge it via a solar panel. $1,099, $1,349 with 100W solar panel; wagan.com

12. Glade Townie

Never hit the road without a trusty pair of shades. These sleek, simple performers from Breckenridge-based brand Glade offer polarized lenses and a nice grip. They look sharp whether you are heading into town or kicking it back in camp. $99; shopglade.com

13. JBL Boombox 2

Waterproof and able to pump up the party no matter where you set up camp, this portable Bluetooth speaker includes a power station so you can charge your phone as you spin that Spotify playlist. But the sound is the big selling point: The treble rings clear, and the bass resonates in your booty. Just be respectful of any neighbors camping nearby. $450; jbl.com

14. Luno Car Window Screens

You love camping in the back of your vehicle. You love that fresh, cool night air. You hate the bugs. Here’s your simple, effective solution. This set of two screens fits on your back window and gives you peace. $50, set of two; lunolife.com

15. Oru Kayak Bay ST

A boat is a great toy to bring on a big road trip, but it’s a pain in the butt to pack and haul along. This closed cockpit “origami” kayak folds up into a suitcase, but don’t think it’s a slouch on the water. The versatile boat can navigate rapids or slice through flat water and even has the space to haul essential gear in the hull. $1,499; orukayak.com

16. Rossmönster Lagom Series

Ready to make a serious commitment to your camping lifestyle without buying a full rig? This beautifully designed truck topper not only provides sleeping space with 360-degree views, it also allows for access to your truck bed. That’s a huge advantage for those of us who like to haul a lot of gear on road trips and don’t appreciate the limited storage space of the usual camper top. Inside, it’s a dream, with the option to add dimmable LED lighting and Goal Zero power. $14,000 base package; rossmonsteroverland.com

17. Zempire Pronto 10 V2

Big enough to hold the whole clan (it sleeps 10) but packable enough that you don’t need an entire truck bed to haul it, this inflatable (aka easy-to-setup) tent is the perfect shelter for life on the road. There’s plenty of airflow via two big screened windows, and a spacious open vestibule allows space to keep gear out of the rain or set up a chair to escape the midday sun. $1,199; zempirecamping.com

18. Ötzi Gear Flame

With increased fire danger across the West, a portable camp grill is the best way to keep everyone safe and set up that primal camp centerpiece when you are on the road (it’s also a great Leave No Trace option, since it doesn’t scar the surroundings like a campfire). Ötzi’s biggest hybrid-alloy grill gives the space to cook for four to six people, packs down flat and sleek, and offers several adjustable levels to ready your grub at the perfect temperature. $350; otzigear.com

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MIRNA VALERIO “The Mirnavator”

GUIDE YOUR WAY. MAKALU FX CARBON

THE ROAD | 07.22

GOING DEEP AN ADVENTURE CLIMBING AND PACKRAFTING IN THE WILD CORNERS OF THE GRAND CANYON ATTEMPTS TO ANSWER THE QUESTION—WHY AM I HERE ? words and photos by TIMMY O’NEILL

ur public lands may not have saved my life, but they definitely have defined it— and my spirit is animated and body agitated with each visit to these wild playgrounds. If you can be reincarnated as a place, I want to come back as the Grand Canyon. Every opportunity to drop out of convention and into the canyon is a chance to surrender to this splendor. And since I was attending the Flagstaff, Arizona, Mountain Film Festival in April, I contacted local Danny Giovale with hopes to go deep.

As a “devotee of the desperate,” he seem happiest when they’ve shed views the gorgeous, tortuous terrain as the customs and costumes of modern both a testing ground for the products living in exchange for the texture and he crafts at Kahtoola, but even more trappings of life outdoors. edifyingly, as a concert hall in which Since I am not a light and fast disciple, to compose a symphony of multiple my kit is heavier, but I also opt to carry a outdoor disciplines, performed at the book and letter-writing supplies, literally highest level. feeling the weight of my words. Our As we switchback three days of food will down the Bright stave off starvation, but Angel trail, I tap into it’s not enough to keep the rock strata like us from constantly IF YOU CAN BE a third rail, zipping craving more calories— R E I N C A R N AT E D A S along between epic and I won’t be eating A PL ACE, I WANT vistas. I experience my words. visual whiplash as The staccato of our TO COME BACK my eyes are pulled trekking poles and AS THE GRAND from sky-scraping thudding feet tap a CANYON. temples down into joyous morse code sinuous side canyons, of “savor our souls,” then back up again. and over the nine-mile My response to this raw, powerful descent, we pass multi-day hikers and beauty is the whispered “wow” of the multi-mule trains before finally inflating awestruck, appreciative pilgrim. our packrafts on a sandy beach below Danny and his partner, Myriam, Pipe Creek. I am so smitten by the are noticeably more nimble as they thoughtful assembly of seams and are both conditioned trail hounds fasteners that my sense of affection for and resolute gram-shavers. They are Alpacka’s ingenuity and craftsmanship either in the backcountry attempting gives new meaning to the term “love an audacious link-up or in their garage boat.” Less than a river mile later, I run tinkering on their set-ups, and they the tumult of Horn Rapid, buoyed by

SPACE FOR CONTEMPLATION: ADVENTURER AND “JOY MERCHANT” DANNY GIOVALE TAKES A MOMENT TO SOAK IN THE SHEER SCALE OF THE CANYON IN UPPER HERMIT CREEK.

the craft and decades of whitewater experience, just managing to tweeze the line between exploding waves and collapsing holes—a sublime dice roll. We deflate, repack, and shoulder a lifetime's worth of decision making before setting off uphill. I am essentially a personal moving company, having spent the last 30-plus years learning to pack the essentials in the smallest space, to be carried to the next home, which for us will be the edge of Trinity Creek miles above. Our water source that night is a large, stagnant pothole with a chlorophyll hue awhirl with tadpoles. It requires pre-filteriing with a t-shirt. As Danny deals with dusk hydration and Myriam hunkers between boulders to prep dinner, I attempt to erect my tent in gale forces only to snap a pole. As the temperature drops, the spitting rain becomes blowing flurries, and I burrow into my bag wearing all my clothes. Under headlamp light, I read a few pages on the craft of writing from

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SILVERTHORNE, COLORADO Find your next adventure in Silverthorne. Surrounded by miles of hiking and biking trails and located next to the famed fishing waters of the Blue River, Silverthorne offers a multitude of outdoor experiences perfect for your summer in the mountains.

SILVERTHORNE.ORG

/ E N G I N E E R E D

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D O L O M I T E S

SALEWA.COM

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T H E

Anne Lamott’s Bird by Bird then pen a field-note letter to practice the lessons. I dream of falling as sand and grit gust across my face.

The high point is half way home, and post-high-five embrace, we tuck and turn. Usually the way down is familiar ground, but with no actual trail and landmarks absorbed in the declivity, e’re up at first light as dark we start-stop-guess-retrace ahead. clouds scud across a gunAt camp, swollen feet and knees metal sky. We stuff calories telegraph the emotional state of our into our bodies and into our day packs. full hearts, having fully amplified the Myriam’s movements are concise action in satisfaction. Sleep comes from years of guiding hikes, and she's immediately, and I drool upon the always ready before me, contrasting page. A creaky morning break,s and my indiscriminate style of half-finished Danny and Myriam hoist their packs as tasks. Although, once off the line, I’m I stumble behind into their slipstream. unwavering in my pursuit of the summit, A technical canyoneering descent which is the 7,006-foot-high top of Isis of Trinity Creek beckons, and we Temple, one of the most technical and hasten to the first of several rappels, physically demanding prominences in donning dry suits, sealing dry bags, the canyon. and lowering into the chill, turbid The scale is water. Lower down, the monstrous and dynamic duo, like proud requires an parents, present the LESS THAN A ambitious patience, stacked-rock-deadman, RIVER MILE akin to eating a piece of webbing an elephant. I keyed deep and safe L AT E R , I R U N T H E divide the day into within the mound, built T U M U LT O F H O R N geologic chunks, months previously R APID, BUOY ED sizing up the steep on a reconnaissance BY THE CRAFT slopes and vertical mission. The scenery walls into discrete is a pointillist painting AND DECADES “suffer sections.” of a million interesting O F W H I T E WAT E R We are off trail and details, of rock, plant EXPERIENCE, careful not to tread or perspective; a silent JUST MANAGING the ancient, delicate eye-feast. cryptobiotic soil as TO T WEEZE THE we wend through a e return to LINE BETWEEN defensive landscape the river’s E XPLODING WAVES of piercing cacti and edge, inflate sharp rock. A lack of our packrafts, and AND COLLAPSING respect or lapse of embark on the roiling HOLES—A SUBLIME awareness is taxed surface like giddy DICE ROLL. with blood and children atop thousand barbs. dollar innertubes. It’s an insistent Soon we encounter stair-master class in recon and Granite, another GC mega drop, with route finding that requires constant a siren call that increases in volume adjustment to the varied conditions with each stroke. I deposit my pack underfoot. We cross no-fall sections down stream, run back to my securely of hardscrabble peppered with stowed craft, then paddle to the point cobbles, like traversing tornado-racked of no return, a silken tongue that leads gingerbread houses perched on the into the belly of the beast. Upright and edge of oblivion. The consequences ecstatic, I pull into the river-left eddy dispel false moves and underscore after dodging explosions and dancing my intention to encounter life and not with implosions, a smile from rim to rim. simply avoid death, with, “…every atom “Dude, amazing line!” yells Danny over of me in magnificent glow,” as Jack the roar of the rapid. “Thanks brother,” London wrote. I offer humbly, knowing he was there to We flake the rope below vertical fish me out if the coin flipped poorly. fifth class, snap the links, and worm Several hours and 5,000 feet of our way via cracks and ledges through elevation gain later, we drop our packs a series of layers that require us to at the awaiting car, full circle after one corkscrew around the telescoping the most wild, inaccessible, adventurewedding cake of Supai, Hermit, and loops of my life. We were put through Coconino rock formations. On top, we the paces of 30 miles of gobsmacking uncover a finely crafted copper box, wilderness, several complete with pencils and sharpener, and sign the guest register. We bathe UPS AND DOWNS: THE TEAM SCALES in full-circle beauty and marvel at the LAYERS OF GEOLOGICAL HISTORY ON THE spring leaves far below that fringe a WAY UP ISIS TEMPLE, THE MAIN OBJECTIVE scoured red rock gash reminiscent of OF THE TRIP (TOP). MYRIAM RAPS INTO A SLOT ON TRINITY CREEK (MIDDLE). MYRIAM a gargantuan earthen centipede with AND DANNY CELEBRATE AT THE 7,006-FOOT side canyon legs and a yawning mouth SUMMIT OF ISIS TEMPLE (BOTTOM). open to the Colorado River. We awewhisper in unison.

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DRINK UP: YOU TAKE WHAT WATER YOU CAN FIND DOWN IN THE BIG DITCH, WHERE MUDDY TENAJAS, OFTEN HOME TO TADPOLES, ARE THE BEST OPTION.

miles of hypothermia-inducing water, and 20,000 feet of gasp-inducing elevation gain—not only a glorious summation of the last three decades of my life, but more a loving coalescence of people, place, and purpose. If “Why am I here?” is the question, then the last 72hour span of exploration, discovery, and joy is the answer. Timmy O'Neill is a professional rock climber, first ascensionist, and public speaker. Following early speed ascents of Yosemite's 3,000-foot El Capitan, O’Neill has dedicated his time to a life of international exploration and giving back through “adventure impact”—the combination of outdoor adventure and social impact.

Know Before You Go The Park Service has very strict and specific regulations when it comes to packrafting the Grand Canyon, and a packraft can only be used as incidental travel to reach sections of the canyon for hiking and climbing. It’s key to follow these rules to ensure packrafts are not banned here. - A backcountry permit is required for all packrafting in the park (including day use). - A type III or V PFD is required. - Travel on the river is limited to eight miles, and the sections between Lees Ferry and Navajo Bridge and between Boat Beach and Pipe Creek are closed to packrafts. - Full backcountry regulations can be found at nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/backcountry-regs.htm. Furthermore, if you plan on a deep adventure in the canyon, follow these practical suggestions from Danny Giovale: - Gain experience packrafting, climbing, canyoneering and backpacking separately before putting all these disciplines together in one big Grand Canyon adventure. - Wear a drysuit or wetsuit and PFD at all times of the year while on the water in the Grand Canyon. - Walk around rapids unless highly experienced and fully equipped for self-rescue. - Follow all park regulations to avoid conflicts and maintain access.

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ELWAYVILLE | 07.22

HITTING THE HIGHWAY AGAIN LISTEN NOW TO THE SONG OF AN OPEN-ROAD OPTIMIST. by PETER KRAY

The Friendly West

Our family moved to Denver when I was 2, slowly working our way from Andrews Air Force Base in Maryland, where I was born to Papillion, Nebraska, and then a little house near the old Stapleton Airport on Quebec Street, where we fell asleep each night to the sound of landing planes. The memory of the open sky above the prairie heading west still lives in my mind. That and the joke a family friend made to my Dad driving back to Lake McConaughy to race Hobie Cats one summer, laughing at the empty horizon and asking, “Glenn, who do you suppose it was who timbered all this land?” My parents always marveled at how the closer they got to Colorado, the friendlier people seemed. How each unwinding mile told a story about where you were going and where you had been. And how once you’ve lived in the shadow of the Rocky Mountains, you never question your sense of direction again. All you have to do is start to drive up into the hills and it begins to pull at you—all the other places you already should have seen.

Miles Between Us

we all need to get back out on the road again.

If I sound a little somber, it’s because I haven’t traveled much since the pandemic began. Other than the Whenever I think about the places local ski hill all winter; the brewery; I’ve driven to—and it’s something dog school a few times each week’ I think about quite a bit—there’s and Big Sky, Montana, this past always something funny I remember, April, where it seemed like winter or something important along the might never end. way that I have learned. I think over the last two years we On a nonstop drive from Denver lost a little of the human, natural to Lake Placid, New York, to see connection we find the NCAA Hockey when we travel. Championship, five of Instead, we sat us in a station wagon, at home being WHENEVER I the tank of gas you bombarded by T H I N K A B O U T bought was the tank whatever political, you burned, and my T H E P L A C E S I ’ V E cultural, and friend Marty told a unfettered echo DRIVEN TO —AND very vivid tale about chamber in which IT’S SOMETHING a personal adventure we choose to place that took place in a I T H I N K A B O U T ourselves. Munich hotel room. Q U I T E A B I T — The When the cop highways are the T H E R E ’ S A LWAY S pulled us over in Iowa, subconscious of SOMETHING FUNNY he said, “Seriously, America—always you guys just kept I R E M E M B E R , traveling, working, accelerating.” So thinking and singing OR SOMETHING blushing Marty gave in the background. I M P O R TA N T A LO N G him the Reader’s These asphalt T H E W A Y T H A T I Digest version. And arteries connect the the officer looked us HAVE LE ARNED. expanse, diversity, up and down and said, and multicolored “You boys be safe. scope of this great Have a good evening.” country in endless open roads of I think about the snowmobilers who intertwined dreams. dug out my Dad’s Jeep on Cumbres And if there’s a cure for what Pass after skiing back from the Yurts divides us, it’s to bridge the miles in Chama. Fixing a flat on a mountain between us. I’m an open road road in France. August in the sunoptimist, and this is my song. I think drunk town of Winnemucca with no air

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A Satisfied Mind

conditioning. Or cruising all by myself with beautiful Bella the black Labrador riding shotgun and her fuzzy brother Toby’s ashes in the back on the way to his funeral in Wyoming. So just like that, there’s the asphalt and endless sky again.

Roll the Window Down

We need to feel the air blowing through us, in our hair and across our hands, to see the satisfied cows in the fields and the antelope blending into the tall grass like sand. Make all those old rock and roll and country road songs actually deserve you singing along. And get that same gut thrill looking in your rearview mirror to see highway patrol hitting the lights and turning around. Even when you know you’ve done nothing wrong. You see, I think we can discover this country again. But only if we’re out there still discovering. Seeing things we’ve never seen. Cheering beers and shaking hands. Getting lost. Getting found. The beauty is that there is no script. Only that you keep trying and traveling and you try to keep an open mind. That you remember to walk out the door and take the journey first to once again understand what it means to be back home. —Elevation Outdoors editor-at-large Peter Kray is the author of The God of Skiing. The book has been called “the greatest ski novel of all time.” Buy it here and read it now: amzn.to/35AfxlL

KEVIN HOWDESHELL

ur beautiful German shepherd, Sohn, died suddenly hiking Mount Princeton with my dad when my brother and I were young. Years later, when I was visiting my in-laws’ ranch in Salida, I would roll down the window and call his name every time I would drive by the mountain. “I love you Sohn! You’re a good, good boy, Sohnie. I love you Sohn.” Then I started calling to my father, too, after he passed away. Because where else would he have gone but back to hiking mountains with one of his favorite dogs? That image reminds me that life itself is a road trip, from cradle to grave and everywhere in between— and that the best part of hitting the highway is that moment when you come back home.